Area 52 Wiring Guidelines

Add to my manuals
19 Pages

advertisement

Area 52 Wiring Guidelines | Manualzz

TOOLS NEEDED

Drill

5/8” Drill bit

15/32” (1/2” can be substituted) Drill Bit

¼” Drill bit

1/8” Drill bit

1 ¼” Hole saw

Phillips #2 Screwdriver

Center Punch

Fish Tape or Heavy wire for pulling Wiring Harness

Electrical Tape

De-burring Tool or Round file

Butless connectors, or solderless connectors

Heat Shrink

The following instructions were done for the Area 52. The install includes a C6 light bar, and a pair of

Vamp Spin Speakers. The outline is the same for doing just a light bar (C4 or C6) or just speakers

(Unisons or Vamps); please pay attention to which holes are which if you are doing one type of install. It should be noted that the install is being done using the Roswell Master Wiring Harness.

Furthermore, it should also be noted that the location of the holes for the actual accessories are, in the end, up to the installer and customer to decide upon. Holes 2 and 3 (for master harness) MUST BE in the locations shown in the diagram below- besides that, the holes can be placed at the discretion of the installer.

Overview

In the diagram we will be running the master harness up through holes 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5. Holes 6 and 7 will have wires running to them but are a smaller diameter to accommodate the pig tail wiring harnesses that come in the speaker/accessory box.

I chose to drill and fish the wires with the tower off the boat- This enabled me to work on just the 2 side sections and center section before putting the tower back on the boat and finishing off the rear leg. Above the black lines is what you will see in the pictures to follow.

As a last note- This tower went on a boat with a stereo and amplifier located on the port (passenger) side of the boat. This is why the holes for the master wiring harness are running up the port side leg. If the stereo is located on the starboard side holes 1-5 can be moved to this side.

Drilling Master Wiring Harness Holes

1. Because I choose to work on the tower off the boat I started with hole 3 located on the rear leg of the port side section.

2. You will find a small pilot hole in this location. Please ensure that this is located on the inside of the leg and use your ¼” drill bit to enlarge the hole being careful not to scratch the tower.

HOLE 3

3. With your ¼” hole drilled you can move onto the 5/8” drill bit. As you can see in the picture below I ream my hole out down at an angle towards the bottom of the leg. This allows the master wiring harness to stay a little more flush to the collar.

HOLE 3

4. With hole 3 drilled out you can now start with hole 4-7. There are no pilot holes in the tower for these locations so you will need to get your center punch ready and go back to the ¼” drill bit

5. Hole 4 should be located approx. ½” below the line shown in the photo below. You do not want to drill higher up or you run the risk of running into the tubing to the right of the red line. Use your center punch and then drill with the ¼” drill bit.

HOLE 4

6. With the ¼” hole drilled you can enlarge the hole with the 5/8” drill bit.

7. Hole 5 will be located in the rear tube running across the top of the tower. It should be located to the right side of the line in the picture below to once again avoid drilling into the tubing it is welded to. Use your center punch and start with the ¼” drill bit.

HOLE5

8. You can enlarge this hole to 5/8” now. At this time it is important to go back and de-burr all three holes. When you are pulling the master wiring harness through you don’t want any sharp edges to cut through the outer housing causing the wires to potentially short out. In the picture below I am using a de-burring tool but a small round file could be used. Just ensure you have a clean, smooth hole before starting to pull the harness through any holes.

De-Burr ALL HOLES

9. Pulling/Fishing the Master Harness

10. Using your wire (or fish tape) pull the wire through holes 3 to 4. Connect the end of the master wiring harness to the wire using electrical tape and carefully feed the master harness through hole

3 while pulling the wire through hole 4.

11. Carefully direct the end of the harness through hole 4 as shown below.

12. Continue feeding the harness through hole 4 until you have enough wire pulled to stretch all the way to hole 7 as shown below. In order to have enough wire for the speaker on the starboard side pull the wiring harness all the way to the end of the wide section as pictured.

13. In order to hook up the accessories and because both the speakers and light bars require power to the LED lights this length of wire will have the black sheathing taken off. This allows individual wires to be pulled to their specific holes and allows you to splice into the yellow and blue wires used for powering the LEDS.

14. Carefully cut the sheathing from the end of the harness back to hole 5. The first picture shows approximately where to cut the sheathing back to and the second picture shows how to carefully cut the sheathing. There will be a white powder in the casing- It is a talcum powder that is used to lubricate the wires. The powder is harmless but you should brush off the wires and clean your hands after removing the casing.

15. You should now have a length of wire with the casing removed as shown below.

16. Place the wire to the side and we will now work on the holes for the speakers and lightbar.

Accessory Holes (HANGING SPEAKERS)

1. In this installation we put the speakers on either side of the center section- Like stated earlier it is up to you to decide where to place the speakers. Be aware that the following pictures are based on the placement above.

2. Take your clamp out of the speaker box and place it in your desired location. Take your 15/32” drill bit and place it to the side of the clamp (I like about a ¼” gap between the clamp and hole).

Mark the location.

Port Side Speaker Hole 6

3. Using your center punch make a divot in the center for your drill bit.

4. Place the clamp in the corresponding position on the starboard side and repeat. Make sure you make the marks for the holes at the same angle on both sides.

Starboard Speaker Hole 7

5. Remove the clamp and drill out your holes with your 15/32” bit. De-burr both holes as done for holes 3-5.

Accessory Holes (Light bar)

1. You have the ability to run one set of hanging speakers and a light bar off of one master wiring harness. As a result I have chosen to mount the light bar on the front bar but I am still able to run the wires for the light bar through the rear bar of the tower.

2. You can choose where you want to place the hole for the light bar- As you can see in the picture below I am running it out just before the port speaker hole and on the inside of the pipe. This is subjective placement.

Light bar hole 8 (not shown on diagram)

3. After center punching you can drill this hole out to 15/32”. Again remember to de-burr the hole.

Wiring

Hole Wires

5

6

7

1

2

3

4

8

Master Harness (All Wires)

Master Harness (All Wires)

Master Harness (All Wires)

Master Harness (All Wires)

Master Harness (All Wires)

Red and Black (Speaker) Yellow and Blue (LED power)

Orange and Brown (Speaker) Yellow and Blue (LED Power

White and Green (Halogen Lights) Yellow and Blue (LED

Power)

1. I like to mark the holes with tape as shown below with the corresponding colors of wire I need to run to each. This helps things from getting confusing if you have to step away to go for a wakeboard behind someone else’s boat in the middle of your install.

2. You can now unbolt the port side section from the center section. This will make fishing the 4 wires (Orange, Brown, Yellow and Blue) to hole 7 easier.

3. Using your tape or wire, fish through from the center section to hole 7 as shown below.

4. You can now run the 4 wires needed at hole 7 through hole 5 and attach it to the fish tape.

(Orange, Brown, Yellow and Blue)

5. Carefully pull the 4 wires through the center section and out hole 7.

6. Using one of the pig tail wiring harnesses you can attach the pigtail to the orange, brown, blue and yellow wires. Orange goes to red, brown goes to black, yellow to yellow and blue to blue. I use solderless connectors and heat shrink to make these connections.

7. With the connections for the starboard speaker made we can now move onto the port speaker and lightbar.

8. You will need to splice into the yellow and blue wires from the master harness for the port side speaker LED’s as shown below.

9. Fish the pig tail harness for the port speaker through hole 6 back through hole 5.

10. These are the 4 wires from the pig tail harness from the port side speaker. These need to be connected to the wires from the master harness (Yellow to yellow and blue to blue- spliced in. Red to red and black to black)

11. Connect these wires using the solderless connectors and heat shrink.

12. Through hole 8 fish the pig tail harness from the light bar box back to hole 5 as shown below. You will need to once again splice the into the yellow and blue wires for the LED’s.

13. With the blue and yellow wires connected you need to connect the red and black wires from the pig tail harness to the white and green wires from the master harness.

14. Once again using your solderless connectors, connect the white to red, green to black.

Wires into the tower

1. All of your wires should now be connected from their pigtail harnesses to the master wiring. You can begin to carefully push the wires into the tower.

2. Be careful not to pull too hard on the connections and slowly push each wire into the tower through its hole.

3. With the connections inside the tower you can push all eight wires into hole 5.

4. You can now carefully tighten up the port side section to the center section. Be very careful not to pinch the 4 wires running to the starboard speaker.

5. You should be left with the following showing- The pigtail speaker harness coming out of hole 6 and you the light bar pigtail harness coming out of hole 8.

6. On the starboard wide you should have a speaker pigtail harness coming out of hole 7.

Rear Leg Wiring

1. With the tower top assembled it is now time to put the tower back on the boat to finish wiring the rear leg.

2. With your tower assembled you can now line up and drill the rear leg (in this install it is the port rear leg).

3. The hole on the rear leg should be about 7” below the center of the hole on the side section. You may want to put the collars from the tower in place so you can see the clearance you need to wrap the wire around them.

4. With your hole position located, center punch and drill away. Make sure your hole is straight below the hole in the upper section for the best result aesthetically. You will again use the 5/8” drill bit.

5. You now need a hole for the wire to exit at the bottom of the leg. Mark a position 1 ¾” up from the weld on the bottom of the rear leg, center punch and drill.

6. With both holes drilled, de-burr the holes.

7. You will now need to remove the speakon connector on this end of the harness. Start by unscrewing the blue collar.

8. You can now slide the black threaded part down off the wiring harness. You will now be able to use a #2 philips head screw driver to remove the 8 wires from the speakon.

9. From here you can fish the wire down and through the bottom hole.

10. Next we will trim the extra length of the harness. You will need enough to run out of the leg and just behind the rear mount. It is better to make this a little longer than you think necessary as you can always push the extra wire up into the leg.

11. You can cut the wire here and carefully remove the black casing approximately 2”. You can then slide the speakon parts back onto the wiring harness as shown below.

12. You can now trim each wire and hook them back to the speakon according to the following chart:

MASTER WIRING HARNESS

TERMINAL

WIRE

COLOR FUNCTION

1+

1-

Red

Black

Port Speaker +

Port Speaker -

2+

2-

3+

3-

4+

Orange

Brown

Yellow

Blue

White

Starboard Speaker +

Starboard Speaker -

LED +

LED -

55w Light +

4- Green 55w Light -

13. You will find the corresponding numbers on the speakon below each Phillips head screw (they are small but can be identified).

14. Slide the large threaded piece back onto the assembly and screw the blue collar back on. Your tower side wiring is now complete.

Boat Side Wiring

1. We need to start by drilling a hole for the speakon connector (female side) that goes through the boat. You will need to use the 1 ¼” hole saw for this.

2. Start by taping off the section just behind and parallel to the mount. You will want to leave between 1 ½”-1 ¾” between the mount and the edge of the hole saw.

3. Carefully drill through the hull (Before drilling ensure there are no wires, cables or obstructions behind your chosen area).

4. Place the female speakon in the hole and mark the 4 holes (you will want to orient the speakon in the hole so the word Neutrix is right side up.

5. Pull the speakon out of the hole and drill your 4 holes ( 1/8” bit). Use your counter sink to carefully finish off these holes.

6. Pull your wires up through the large hole. This wiring is not provided with your master wiring harness. We do not offer wiring for inside the boat as each boat is very different. We recommend using the same gauge of wire as we have in the master wiring harness (14).

7. Using the provided connectors (in the bag with the female speakon) connect your wires inside the boat to the corresponding terminal on the back of the speakon.

TERMINAL

1+

1-

2+

2-

3+

3-

4+

4-

FUNCTION

Port Speaker +

Port Speaker -

Starboard Speaker +

Starboard Speaker -

LED +

LED -

55w Light +

55w Light -

8. You can now connect all of your wires inside the boat.

9. Typically the speaker wires will be running through to an amp, and the LED’s on the speakers and lightbar will hook up to the courtesy lights (these can be hooked to an open ACC switch if you want).

10. The 55w halogen lights should be hooked up to an open switch or a switch should be added if need be. Your C4 will need a 25 amp fuse and the C6 will need a 35 amp fuse.

11. With the power off you can plug in the speakon and rotate ¼ turn.

12. Your tower speakers and lights are now ready for testing- Turn on each switch individually to check the lights. With the lights off you can now turn on your stereo and you should be rocking full power to your new speakers.

Now you should be launching like Team Roswell

Questions, Comments, Concerns?- [email protected]

or 780.490.7908

advertisement

Was this manual useful for you? Yes No
Thank you for your participation!

* Your assessment is very important for improving the workof artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project

Related manuals

Download PDF

advertisement