Basic Operation
For all current BERNINA models
Including bernettes
©2011 BERNINA of America, Inc. Permission granted to copy and distribute in original form only.
Content may not be altered or used in any other form or under any other branding.
Table of Contents
Introduction ................................................................................................................. 3
Sewing Machine Needles ........................................................................................... 4
Thread ........................................................................................................................ 6
Presser Feet ............................................................................................................... 7
Securing Stitches........................................................................................................ 8
Turning Corners.......................................................................................................... 9
Zigzag Stitch ............................................................................................................... 10
Blind Hem ................................................................................................................... 11
Triple Straight Stitch ................................................................................................... 12
Vari-Overlock Stitch .................................................................................................... 13
Stretch Stitch .............................................................................................................. 14
Gathering Over Cord .................................................................................................. 15
Buttonholes ................................................................................................................. 16
Manual Buttonholes .................................................................................................... 17
Automatic Buttonholes ................................................................................................ 18
Attaching Buttons ...................................................................................................... 19
Stitching Zippers ......................................................................................................... 20
Stitch, Function, and Foot Charts ............................................................................... 21
1008 8 Series bernette BERNINA 215 5 Series artista 3 Series The information in this workbook applies to all current BERNINA
and bernette sewing machines. Note: Some exercises apply only
to models equipped with the highlighted feature.
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2
Introduction
This workbook is designed to be used as a step-by-step guide to familiarize you with the basic operation
of your BERNINA or bernette sewing machine. Once you have completed the exercises designated for your
machine, attach the sewn samples to the information pages (or add an extra mounting page as a facing
page) and insert the pages into plastic page protectors to store in a 3-ring binder. They can then be used
as a reference tool in the future as you use your machine and explore the creative possibilities it affords.
Pages 21-23 of this workbook have several charts that are useful when working through the stitching exercises on pages 8-20. Stitch numbers, presser feet, and machine functions are listed for all BERNINA and
bernette models. This will help you determine if your machine can be used for the exercise and it will make
it faster for you to locate particular stitches. Each stitch exercise page has a graphic of the stitch(es) used
so you can quickly find it on the chart and on your machine.
Each page that has a stitching exercise ends with a “Sew How” box. This mini-quiz will let you test your
knowledge and review the points the exercise is covering. Taking the class is just the first step. Using the
information on a fairly regular basis will help make it become part of your sewing skill set and before long
it becomes something you don’t even have to think about as you use your BERNINA machine.
BERNINA strives to provide its customers with quality sewing machines, and informative publications and
classes. Along with providing My BERNINA Classes, your local BERNINA dealer stocks BERNINA reference
books such as Feet-ures and The Serger Technique Reference Book. Plus, BERNINA of America, Inc. has
websites offering free projects and a variety of articles and postings that appeal to all types of stitchers, no
matter which machines are their favorites. Visit all of these and don’t forget the BERNINA of America blog
where you can share ideas and inspiration with other BERNINA enthusiasts!
www.berninausa.com
www.bernina8series.com
www.berninamylabel.com
www.sewingrepublic.com
www.berninaUSAblog.com
www.throughtheneedle.com
For more ideas and information about using your
BERNINA machine, download Through the Needle
ONLINE. This FREE magazine offers fun sewing
projects and informative articles for all types of
stitchers: quilters, garment makers, embroiderers,
crafters, virtual stitchers, fiber artists and more!
Sign up now for Through the Needle ONLINE at
www.throughtheneedle.com, and you’ll receive an
e-mail notification with a link to each new issue when
it becomes available. After all, the next best thing to
sewing is reading about it!
7/27/11
3
Sewing Machine Needles
General Information
Along with thread, needles are very important to stitch formation.
Many “mechanical” problems and damage to fabrics can be
traced to a bent, damaged, or incorrect size or type needle.
When selecting the correct needle, consider the following:
Needle system – 130/705H
Needle point – assures proper stitch formation; avoids fabric
damage
Needle size – smaller for lightweight fabrics; larger for heavier
fabrics
If the needle is:
Too small – the thread can’t stay in the groove to form a
loop to be picked up by the hook point
Bent – the thread loop forms too far away from hook point
and the hook can’t enter the loop to form a stitch
Needle “Secret” Code
• DRI = Triple
• E = Embroidery
• J = Jeans
• L, LL, R = Leather
• M = Microtex
• MET = Metallica
• N = Topstitching/Cordonnet
• Q = Quilting
• S = Stretch
• SUK = Fine Ball Point
• SES = Medium Ball Point
• WING = Wing
• ZWI = Double
Blunt – the needle won’t pierce fabric, so no thread loop
forms to make a stitch
Need to Know
Needle Size Conversion
Needles should be changed after every 4-6
hours of stitching. The needle is the most
inexpensive part in your sewing machine
but it is crucial for getting good results and
keeping your machine running well. Don’t
let false economy keep you from doing
what is best for your sewing projects and
your machine.
Regardless of the system, the
greater the number, the larger
the diameter of the needle.
Parts of a Needle Shank (flat side to the back)
Groove (on the front)
Scarf (on the back)
Eye
Needle Size for Fabrics
60 – very fine batiste
70 – shirt-weight
80 – medium-weight
90 – denim and twill
100/110/120 – canvas
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Point
European vs. Domestic
60 = 8
70 = 10
75 = 11
80 = 12
90 = 14
100 = 16
110 = 18
120 = 19
The selected thread should fit
in the groove on the front of the
needle. If it isn’t protected by the
groove, a needle with a larger
groove should be used.
Always make sure needles are
fully inserted as high as possible,
with the flat side to the back.
Shaft
4
Sewing Machine Needles
Type
Sizes
Description
Ballpoint
60-100
Has a rounded point. Size 70 for lingerie, nylon, jersey; 80 for T-shirt; 90
for sweatshirt fleece.
Stretch
70-90
A Stretch needle has a more rounded point than a Ballpoint, and a blue
anti-cling coating which helps to prevent skipped stitches in knits and
elastic. Sometimes used on Ultrasuede, vinyl, and plastic.
Universal
60-120
A compromise between a Sharp and a Ballpoint; used on both wovens
and knits.
Double
1.6/708.0/100
Two needles attached to one shank. For pintucks, hems, and decorative
work. Available in Universal, Stretch, Jeans, Metallica, and Embroidery
needles.
Triple
2.5/90
3.0/90
Three needles attached to one shank. Used to create mock smocking and
other decorative effects
Jeans
70-110
Has a sharp point and a shaft that is less prone to flex. The sharpness
of the needle is better for use on denim and woven fabrics.
Leather
80-100
Point is a sharp cutting wedge. Used for leather only. Not for vinyl or
simulated leathers.
Microtex
/ Sharp
60-90
Sharp point; thin shaft. Specially designed for microfiber fabrics.
Quilting
75 & 90
Thin, tapered point eliminates potential damage to fabric when seaming
and cross-seaming.
Topstitch
70-100
A sharp point with a large eye and deep groove. For use with heavier
fabrics – the large groove cradles heavier threads.
Embroidery
75 & 90
Sharp needle with large eye and groove; has a coating and a larger scarf.
Prevents shredding of rayon or metallic threads. Two threads may be
used through the eye.
Metafil
80
Similar to Embroidery needle with large eye and deep groove. Made
of a heat-resistant alloy with a friction-reducing coating. Suitable for
manufactured fibers such as polyester, acrylic, and nylon.
Wing
100 & 110
Sharp-pointed needle with a non-cutting metal wedge on each side.
Makes a hole without cutting the threads of the fabric. Used for
decorative and heirloom work, such as hemstitching.
Double Wing
100
One Universal needle and one Wing needle attached to a single shank.
Metallica
70-100
Designed for metallic threads; has a large eye and deep groove.
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5
Thread
To achieve quality stitches, a sewing machine needs three things: suitable
thread, correct size needle, and properly adjusted thread tensions. Poor
quality or the wrong type of thread can cause inferior stitches on any
machine. Inferior thread results in crooked and looped stitches, puckered
seams, frayed thread, and/or needle breakage. Did you know that thread
passes through the eye of the needle approximately 37 times in a
“seesaw” action before it forms a single stitch?
Long staple threads are stronger and smoother than short staple threads.
(Staple refers to the length of fibers used to twist together to form a single
ply). Most bargain-priced threads are usually short staple and will deposit
more lint and fuzz into your sewing machine, potentially causing tension
inconsistencies and possibly even damage to your machine over the long
term. Using long staple threads also result in less snagging and fraying
as you sew.
Ply refers to the number of strands twisted together to make a single
thread. The number of plies are usually indicated by a number after the
weight of the thread such as 50/3, which means a 3-ply, 50-wt. thread.
The lower the weight, the heavier the thread; conversely, higher numbers
indicate fine or lightweight thread.
Guidelines for Thread Weights
12 wt.— Couching, bobbinwork
30 wt.— Embroidery, bobbinwork
40 wt.— General construction, quilting, embroidery
50 wt.— General construction, piecing, bobbin thread
60 wt.— Lingerie, heirloom, appliqué, bobbin thread
80 wt.— Extra-fine lingerie, heirloom
Fibers Fiber refers to the type of material
used to produce the thread.
Polyester
Good for clothing construction on
man-made, natural or blended fabrics. Tolerates high temperatures.
Polyester embroidery thread has a
high sheen; excellent for embroidery,
very abrasion resistant.
Cotton 2 ply
Mettler 60/2; excellent for French
heirloom stitching, delicate machine
embroidery, piecing and darning.
Mettler 30/2; loose twist for a soft,
shiny look in machine embroidery,
appliqué, and buttonholes.
Mettler 50/2; excellent for clothing
construction on natural fibers. Tighter
twist than embroidery cotton thread
and less puckering on problem fabrics. Cotton thread stretches less
than polyester.
Rayon
A lustrous embroidery thread; weaker
than cotton, it is used for decorative
work only.
Silk
Used on silk and wool fabrics, this
strong, lustrous fiber is good for
construction and decorative details
such as buttonholes. Also used for
quilting as it blends into the fabric.
The exercises in this workbook are designed to be sewn
with Mettler thread. Use one
of the following in any color
of medium value:
• Metrosene Polyester
• Silk-finished 50-wt. cotton
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6
Presser Feet
BERNINA Presser Feet:
▪ are precision engineered for specific functions
▪ are Swiss-made for the highest quality
▪ are one-piece metal feet, making them sturdy and durable
▪ are easy to change with one hand, requiring no special tools
▪ have a white shank, making it easier to see the eye of the needle,
resulting in easier threading
▪ are, in some cases, modeled after commercial feet used in factories to
increase speed and production with professional results
▪ do the job intended in relation to all types of sewing (example, quilting,
garment-making, home dec, etc.)
▪ are supported by the best and most complete educational materials in the
industry, such as Feet-ures volumes 1, 2, & 3, and the BERNINA of
America website at www.berninausa.com
Understanding the Numbers/Letters
BERNINA presser feet are numbered and may have one or two additional versions with a letter that follows
the number, such as Edgestitch Foot #10C or Jeans Foot #8D.
Number Only—The number without a letter refers to a foot engineered for BERNINA models that have a
CB Hook and a maximum stitch width of 5.5mm. These feet may also be compatible with models that have
a 9mm width when a 9mm width is not desired, such as when making pintucks with feet #30, 31, 32, or 33.
The Letter “C”—When a foot number is followed by a “C”, it indicates a version of the foot made for models
that have rotary hook systems and a maximum stitch width of 9mm. The “C” stands for coded and refers to
the sensor on the foot that works with the electronics of the machine to engage the wider stitch width. The
sole of the “C” foot is usually larger to fit the wider feed dog of the rotary hook machines. Exceptions: Overlock
Foot #2/2A: 2A is larger to fit the wider feed dog but does not have a sensor for a wider stitch because the
overlock stitches are not used at wide widths. Extra Wide Gathering Foot #16C: 16C is larger to fit the wider
feed dog but does not have a sensor for a wider stitch width.
The Letter “D”—The feet that have a number followed by a
“D” are designed to work with the 8-Series (models 830 and
820) Dual Feed feature. After attaching the foot, the Dual Feed
mechanism is positioned in the cutout on the back of the foot,
engaging the BERNINA Dual Feed system. It is recommended
that the D-Feet be used only when the BERNINA Dual Feed
Feature is engaged.
Easy-On/Easy-Off Soles—Model B530, the 3 Series & model
215 have simple-to-use easy-on/easy-off metal soles that
For complete information on all BERNINA presser
attach to a standard shank. These machines are also
feet & accessories, see Feet-ures, Vols 1, 2, & 3.
compatible with the one-piece full-shank presser feet
available as optional accessories for all BERNINA machines.
7/27/11
7
Securing Stitches
Fabric: Firm woven fabric, two pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Needle Position: Center
BERNINA Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C/1D with
optional Quilting Seam Guide or
optional Seam Guides with Rulers
bernette Presser Foot: Zigzag/Universal Foot
Fold each piece of fabric in half lengthwise to be 2” x 6”. Stitch
one or both of the exercises below depending on the features
of your model.
Exercise 1:
Straight Stitch/Reverse
Find the ⅝” guide line on the stitch plate. Fold one piece of fabric
in half lengthwise. Place it under the presser foot and align one
6” edge with the ⅝” guide line.
Select the straight stitch. Sew a few stitches forward, then press
or lift the Quick Reverse Button/Lever; sew a few stitches
backward; the machine will sew in reverse until the Quick
Reverse Button/Lever is released. Continue stitching the seam;
secure the end in the same way.
Exercise 2:
Securing Stitch
Fold the second piece of fabric; align the raw edges with the
guide. Place it under the presser foot and align one 6” edge with
the ⅝” guide line.
Select the Securing Stitch. Begin to sew; machine will
automatically secure the stitching, then continue stitching
forward. At the end of the seam, press and release the Quick
Reverse button. The machine will automatically secure the
stitching, then stop.
Reverse stitching
Securing stitches
Securing Stitch: Five straight stitches forward
and back at beginning; five stitches backward
and forward at end.
Quilter’s Securing Stitch: Several very short
stitches at the beginning and end.
7/27/11
Do you know how to:
▪ Select straight stitch?
▪ Sew in reverse?
▪ End a seam with the Securing Stitch?
8
Turning Corners
Fabric: Firm woven fabric, two pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Needle Position: Center
BERNINA Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C/1D
bernette Presser Foot: Zigzag/Universal Foot
Select the straight stitch.
Place the fabric pieces wrong sides together.
Place the fabric under the foot and engage the Needle Stop
Down function, if available (see below).
Sew several lines of stitching, pivoting to form at least 2 right
angle corners and 2 additional corners.
Pivot, using FHS (Free Hand System), if available, to raise the
presser foot.
To Access Needle Stop Up/Down:
215, 3 Series, 5 Series, aurora, and artista: Needle
stops in the up position (default). Briefly push the button
and needle will go up or down. Press & hold button to set
needle stop position down or up automatically until reset.
Arrow indicator appears on the screen to show if it set to
stop up or down.
8 Series: Needle stops with the needle up and the presser
foot down (default). To change needle setting,
touch the Needle Down icon. Machine will stop
with the needle down and the presser foot up.
Do you know how to:
▪ Use the Free Hand System?
▪ Use the Stitch Plate markings?
▪ Engage the Needle Stop Down feature?
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9
Zigzag Stitch
Fabric: Firm woven fabric, 4” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Needle Position: As directed in instructions
BERNINA Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C/1D
bernette Presser Foot: Zigzag/Universal Foot
Select the Zigzag Stitch (width = 4, length = 2).
Finish one 6” edge using the following steps.
Guide the edge of the fabric under the middle of the presser foot
– or – Move needle position to the far right; sew using the inside
edge of the right toe as a guide.
The needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle
and over the edge on the next stroke.
Tips
Do not use too long a stitch or too wide a stitch; the edge should
lie flat, not roll.
Match the weight of the thread to the weight of the fabric.
Do you know how to:
▪ Adjust the stitch width?
▪ Adjust the stitch length?
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10
Blind Hem
Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 7”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Needle Position: As programmed
BERNINA Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C/1D and
Blind Hem Foot #5
bernette Presser Foot: Zigzag/Universal Foot and
Blind Hem Foot (optional accessory)
Attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1 or bernette Zigzag/Universal
Foot to the machine
Finish one 6” edge of the fabric using a zigzag stitch and guiding
the edge of fabric under the middle of the presser foot. The
needle should go into the fabric on one stroke of the needle
and over the edge on the next stroke. Note: This is the same
as the exercise on page 10.
Fold a 2” hem to the wrong side of the fabric and press.
Baste the hem in place, sewing about ¼” from the upper edge
of the hem (the one previously stitched).
Select the Blindstitch and attach the Blind Hem Foot to the
machine.
Fold the hem back to the right side over the basting line, exposing the zigzagged edge of the fabric.
Sew on the extended hem allowance, keeping the folded edge next to the guide on the foot.
Adjust the stitch width if needed so that the needle barely stitches into the fold.
Unfold the fabric when finished, and notice that the stitches barely show on the outside of the fabric.
Do you know how to:
▪ Machine baste?
▪ Distinguish between Blind Hem Foot #5
and Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D?
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11
Triple Straight Stitch
Fabric: Firm woven fabric, two pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Needle Position: As directed in instructions
BERNINA Presser Foot: Reverse pattern Foot #1/1C/1D and
Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D
(optional accessory)
bernette Presser Foot: Zigzag/Universal Foot
Attach Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C/1D or bernette Zigzag/
Universal Foot to the machine.
Select the Triple Straight Stitch.
Position the edge of the fabric on the ⅝” marking on the stitch
plate. Sew the seam and press it open.
Change to Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D and adjust the needle
position to the far right.
With the guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, sew the length
of the seam.
Adjust the needle position to the far left and stitch a second time,
again with guide of the foot in the ditch of the seam, sewing in
the same direction as before.
Do you know how to:
▪ Adjust the needle position?
▪ Use the stitch plate markings?
▪ Use Edgestitch Foot #10/10C/10D?
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12
Vari-Overlock Stitch
Fabric: Cotton interlock, two pieces, 4” x 6” each
Needle: 80/12 Universal (Ballpoint or Stretch may also be used)
Needle Position: As programmed
BERNINA Presser Foot: Overlock Foot #2/2A
bernette Presser Foot: Overcasting Foot (optional accessory)
Place the two pieces of fabric right sides together.
Select the Vari-Overlock Stitch.
If available, engage the Needle Stop Down function.
Guide the raw edges of the fabric under the pin of the foot and stitch
the two layers together. The stitch will form over the pin and the edge
of the fabric.
bernette: Guide the fabric against the blade of the foot.
Adjust the stitch length and width if needed.
Do you know how to:
▪ Engage the Needle Stop Down feature?
▪ Position Overlock Foot #2/2A?
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13
Stretch Stitch
Fabric: Spandex, two pieces, 2” x 6” each
Needle: 80/12 Universal (Ballpoint may also be used)
Needle Position: As programmed
BERNINA Presser Foot: Reverse pattern Foot #1/1C/1D
bernette Presser Foot: Zigzag/Universal Foot
Select the Super Stretch stitch.
Place the fabric pieces right sides together.
Position the edge of the fabric on the ⅝” marking on the stitch
plate; sew the seam and press it open.
Note: If the fabric is pulling and stretching as it is sewn, adjust
the presser foot pressure to a lower number to lighten the
pressure of the foot on the fabric and eliminate the stretching.
Do you know how to:
▪ Adjust the presser foot pressure?
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14
Gathering Over a Cord
Fabric: Medium weight cotton, 12” x 4” and
Narrow cord such as perle cotton or embroidery floss, 18”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Needle Position: Center
BERNINA Presser Foot: Clear Embroidery Foot #39/39C/39D
bernette Presser Foot: Cording Foot (optional accessory)
Attach the desired foot to the machine.
Thread the cord through the center front hole of Clear Embroidery
Foot #39/39C or through the center groove of the bernette Cording
Foot, leaving a 2”-3” tail behind the foot.
Select the Zigzag stitch and adjust the width and length:
SW = 2.5mm and SL = 2-2.5mm.
Stitch ⅝” from one 12” edge; sewing over the cord, but
not into it.
Tie a knot in the cord at the beginning of the stitching and then
pull it to gather the sample to 6”.
Notes
- Gathering over cord adds additional strength, eliminates thread
breakage, and allows better control of gathering.
- Do not sew through the cording, or it won‘t be able to move
through the channel formed by the stitches
- After gathering the fabric, drop the feed dog and sew a bartack
(see page 19) at the beginning and end of cord for strength.
Do you know how to:
▪ Attach a presser foot with one hand?
▪ Adjust stitch width and length?
▪ Drop the feed dog?
7/27/11
15
Buttonholes
There are a variety of buttonhole styles available, depending on your model. All models have a standard
buttonhole that is appropriate for many types of projects. Below is a list of other styles and types of buttonholes that may be available on your model.
STANDARD BUTTONHOLE: Fine to medium weight fabrics.
HEIRLOOM BUTTONHOLE: Fine to medium weight fabrics.
STRETCH BUTTONHOLE: All stretch fabrics.
ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK: Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types.
ROUND BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONTAL BARTACK: Medium to heavy weight fabrics of all types.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH NORMAL BARTACK: Heavy weight, non-stretch fabrics.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH POINTED BARTACK: Firm woven fabric. Jackets, coats, leisure wear.
KEYHOLE BUTTONHOLE WITH HORIZONTAL BARTACK: Firm woven fabrics. jackets, coats, leisure wear.
STRAIGHT STITCH BUTTONHOLE: For bound buttonholes & welt pockets.
HAND-LOOK BUTTONHOLE: For light- to medium-weight woven fabrics.
Buttonhole Presser Feet
Standard Buttonhole Foot
#3 for manual buttonholes
on CB models
Standard Buttonhole Foot #3C
for manual buttonholes on
rotary models
4-Step Buttonhole Foot
For the bernette models
46 and 12.
7/27/11
Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A
for automatic buttonholes
Buttonhole Foot with Slide #3B
- measuring foot for manual
buttonholes
Automatic Buttonhole Foot
For bernette models 15, 20,
and 25.
16
Manual Buttonholes
Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 6” and
Lightweight tear-away stabilizer, 3” x 6” and
Narrow cord (perle cotton, embroidery floss, etc.), 18”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
Needle Position: As programmed
BERNINA Presser Foot: Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C
bernette Presser Foot: Models 46 & 12 only: 4-step Buttonhole Foot
Note: For making buttonholes with bernette
models 15, 20 and 25, see Automatic
Buttonholes on the following page.
Fold the fabric in half to 3” x 6”; press. Insert the
stabilizer between the layers. Draw a line 1½” from
the fold along the 6” length. Draw a second line 1”
from the first line. Mark two short lines, between the
fold and the drawn line, spaced about 1½”-2” apart.
fold
Standard Buttonhole—BERNINA
Select the Standard buttonhole; select the “man” function from the function
toolbar, if applicable. Position the foot over the first short line, aligning the
fold of the fabric with the ⅝” marking on the stitch plate, behind the foot.
Engage Step #1. Sew the first side of the buttonhole. Stop at the drawn line;
select step #2. Continue with remaining steps.
Standard Buttonhole—bernette 46 and 12
Select the buttonhole and adjust the stitch settings: SW = 5 and
SL = buttonhole. Position the foot over the first short line, aligning the
needle with the 1½” line. Select the steps in order and sew them as
shown in the diagrams. When the stitching is complete, remove the
fabric from under the foot. Bring thread tails to the back and tie off.
bernette 46
bernette 12
Corded Buttonhole
Fold the cord in half and loop the middle around the center “toe” of the
foot (For the bernette – loop the cord at the back of the foot; lock it in the
front grooves and tie the ends in front.) Stitch the buttonhole on the second
Line as before, then carefully remove the fabric from under the foot. Pull
the cord ends until the loop is pulled up under the buttonhole; trim
the ends of cord. If working on a knit fabric, knot the cord
ends together before trimming.
Tension Tips
A slightly tighter bobbin tension gives a beautiful full look
to your buttonholes. The best way to achieve this:
• CB Hook Machines: Thread the bobbin thread
through the hole in the finger of the bobbin case.
• Rotary Hook Machines: Use the embroidery
bobbin case and thread the "pigtail."
• 8 Series Machines: Thread for embroidery.
7/27/11
Do you know how to:
▪ Measure a button for buttonhole size?
▪ Select a buttonhole?
▪ Stitch a buttonhole?
17
Automatic Buttonholes
Fabric: Heavy flannel, 6” x 6” and
Lightweight tear-away stabilizer, 3” x 6”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
BERNINA Presser Foot: Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A
bernette Presser Foot: Automatic Buttonhole Foot
Note: Models 1008 & 215 do not make Automatic Buttonholes.
Fold each fabric square in half to 3” x 6”; press. Insert the stabilizer
between the layers. Draw a line 1½” from the fold along the 6” length.
Automatic Buttonhole—BERNINA
▪ Attach Automatic Buttonhole Foot #3A; set the red slide marker to
the length of buttonhole desired.
▪ Position the needle over the drawn line, setting it to stitch the
buttonhole perpendicular to the line.
▪ Sew the first bead of the buttonhole; stop when the red mark on the
foot aligns with the red slide marker.
▪ Press the Quick Reverse button; this programs the length of the
buttonhole. Continue sewing – the buttonhole is completed
automatically and the machine will stop when it is finished. This
buttonhole is now programmed into the temporary memory.
▪ Move the foot to another place on the drawn line and sew the
programmed buttonhole on the second line. There is no need to
stop or press Quick Reverse this time as the machine will simply
repeat the previous buttonhole and stop automatically.
Automatic Buttonhole—bernette 15, 20 and 25
▪ Position the foot over the first short line, aligning the needle (at the
front end of the buttonhole) with the drawn line.
• Open the button plate and insert the button.
• Lower the buttonhole lever and push it toward the back of the machine.
• Stitch the buttonhole; the machine will complete the buttonhole automatically.
▪ When stitching is complete, remove the fabric from under the presser foot.
▪ Bring the thread tails to back and tie off.
▪ Push the lever up when not in use.
Note: To make a corded Automatic Buttonhole on bernette
models 15, 20 and 25, follow the directions on the previous
page, looping the cord from the back and securing it at the
front of the foot.
Do you know how to:
▪ Program a buttonhole?
▪ Make repeat buttonholes?
▪ Open a buttonhole?
7/27/11
18
Attaching Buttons
Fabric: Firm woven fabric, 4” x 8” and
Lightweight tear-away stabilizer, 4” x 4”
Needle: 80/12 Universal
BERNINA Presser Foot: Button Sew-On Foot #18 (optional)
bernette Presser Foot: Button Sew-On Foot (optional)
Lower the feed dog, then attach the Button Sew-On Foot to the
machine. Select the Button Sew-On stitch, if available. The Universal or Zigzag stitch can also be used by setting the stitch length at
0.0mm.
Fold the fabric in half to 4” x 4”; press. Insert the stabilizer between
the layers of fabric.
Technique #1 – With Thread Shank
Optional: Use a glue stick to hold the button in place.
BERNINA only: For a long shank, adjust the pin on Button Sew-On
Foot #18 to the highest position. Note: A short shank is appropriate
for dress-and blouse-weight fabrics; a long shank for coat- and
jacket-weight materials.
Check the distance between the holes of the button by turning the
hand wheel. To avoid breaking the needle, adjust the stitch width if
necessary so that the left and right swings of the needle fall into the
holes of the button. Hold the thread tails as you begin to sew.
If using the Button Sew-on stitch, the machine stops automatically
when the program is complete; the thread tails are secured as part
of the program.
BERNINA or bernette: Use the Universal or Zigzag stitch, sew 6-8
stitches, and stop. Bring the thread tails to the wrong side of the
fabric and knot them together; trim the excess thread.
Technique #2 – Without Thread Shank
Using the lowest shank setting and the instructions
above, attach a charm(s) or snap or hook and eye.
Stitch a ribbon with this technique (the stitch makes
a bartack) and then tie the ribbon into a bow.
7/27/11
Do you know how to:
▪ Lower the feed dog?
▪ Adjust the shank on Button Sew-On
Foot #18?
19
Stitching Zippers
Fabric: Firm woven fabric, two pieces, 4” x 8” each and
4”-7” neckline zipper
Needle: 80/12 Universal
BERNINA Presser Foot: Reverse Pattern Foot #1/1C/1D and
Zipper Feet #4 and
Zipper Foot with Guide #14
(optional accessory)
bernette Presser Foot: Zigzag/Universal foot and
Zipper Foot
Attaching the Zipper to Garment
Place fabric pieces right sides together. Using a straight stitch, sew a
¾” seam from one short end up to where the zipper stop will be about
2”). Baste the rest of the seam, sewing 2-3 stitches in reverse at the
end to secure the seam; return to a straight stitch length of 2.5mm.
Press the seam allowances open. Place the right side of the zipper
against the seam allowances with the zipper teeth centered over the
seam. Pin or baste each side of zipper to the seam allowances only.
Change to a zipper foot; adjust the needle position (bernette users
slide the zipper foot) to the right or left as needed to stitch close to
the zipper teeth. Sew through the zipper tape and the seam allowance
only, from bottom to top on each side of the zipper. Pin or baste
through all layers to hold the sewn zipper to the project.
Topstitching the Zipper—BERNINA
Change to Zipper Foot with Guide #14.
Left Side: Adjust the seam guide to one notch to the right of center.
Adjust the needle position to the far left. Sewing from the right side
of the fabric and starting at the lower edge, sink the needle into the
seam. Sew out about ⅜ ”, stop, pivot and make sure the seam guide
is lying in the ditch of the seam. Sew up the left side of the zipper,
stitching through all layers.
Right Side: Adjust the guide one notch to left of center; move
the needle position to the far right. Repeat the above steps
on the right side of the zipper.
Topstitching the Zipper—bernette
Left Side: Adjust the foot to the left of center. Sewing from
the right side of the fabric and starting at the lower edge,
sink the needle into the seam. Sew out about ⅜ ”, stop,
pivot and make sure the edge of the foot is lying in the
ditch of the seam. Sew up the left side of the zipper.
Right Side: Adjust foot to right of center. Repeat the above
steps, starting at seam and sewing to the right of the zipper.
7/27/11
Do you know how to:
▪ Machine baste a seam?
▪ Adjust the needle positions?
▪ Adjust the sliding guide or sole?
20
Stitch Chart
Basic Operation
The following stitches are used in Workbook 1: Basic Operation. The chart gives the stitch number for each model (-- indicates that the stitch is not
available).
8 Series
Stitch
—▪—
Basting
Blindstitch
aurora
5 Series
artista
3 Series
BERNINA
classic
bernette
830
820
730 635LE
630
580
550QE
530
450
380
350PE
330
215
1008
12
15
20
25
46*
21
21
21
30
30
21
30
30
21
23
21
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
9
7
7
7
7
5
3
6
13
7
7
7
Button
Sew-On
Quilter’s
Securing
60
60
60
60
60
60
60
60
17
14
12
11
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
1324
1324
324
324
324
1324
1324
1324
--
104
75
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
Securing
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
51
51
51
51
51
51
51
51
10
0
0
0
11
dial
dial
before
1
10
10
dial
Straight
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1&
2
2
1&
2
1&
2
1&
2
Stretch
11
11
11
11
11
11
11
11
9
9
9
9
--
--
--
16
9
9
5
Triple
Straight
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
6
4
5
11
&12
17
3
3
--
Universal
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
15
19
17
14
--
4
8
6
14
14
--
VariOverlock
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
3
--
3
7
5
8
8
6
Zigzag
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
3
3
4
4
3
Standard
Buttonhole
* The stitches on bernette model 46 are not numbered on the machine but are indicated on the chart in the order they appear on the front of the machine.
7/27/11
21
Machine Features & Functions
Basic Operation
The following features and functions are used in Workbook 1: Basic Operation.
8 Series
artista
aurora
5 Series
3 Series
BERNINA
BERNINA
bernette
Feature/
Function
830
820
730
635LE
630
580
550
530
450
380
350PE
330
215
1008
12
15
20
25
46
Automatic
Needle
Threader
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
no
yes
yes
yes
yes
no
Automatic
One-Step
Buttonhole
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
no
no
no
yes
yes
yes
no
Feed Dog
Up/Down
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
cover
yes
no
yes
cover
Free Hand
System
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
opt
opt
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
Hopper
Mechanism
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
no
no
no
no
no
no
5.5mm
9mm
5.5mm
5.5mm
9mm
5.5mm
5.5mm
5
mm
5
mm
7
mm
7
mm
5
mm
Maximum
9mm 5.5mm 9mm 5.5mm
Stitch Width
yes
5.5mm 5.5mm 5.5mm
Needle
Positions
11
11
11
11
11
11
11
11
11
9
9
9
9
5
2
3
5
5
2
Needle Stop
Down
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
no
no
no
yes
yes
no
On-screen
Buttonhole
Measuring
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
no
Presser Foot
Pressure
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
no
no
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
Slide-on
Tray/Box
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
opt
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
yes
7/27/11
yes
yes
22
Presser Foot Chart
The presser feet listed below are included with the purchase of each model as indicated on the chart (-- indicates that the presser foot is not included but may be
available as an optional accessory). The BERNINA name and numbers are listed and if the bernette has a corresponding presser foot, it is indicated by the letter
stamped on the top of the sole. If the bernette foot does not have a letter, it is indicated by an “X”. The highlighted feet have snap-on soles. Note: This chart shows
only a partial listing of optional presser feet available. See your local BERNINA dealer for a complete listing of BERNINA and bernette specialty accessories.
artista
8 Series
Presser Feet
830
820
730 635LE
Reverse Pattern
Foot #1/1C/1D
1C &
1D
1C &
1D
1C
Overlock Foot
#2/2A
Standard Buttonhole Foot #3/3C
2A
--
3C
Auto Buttonhole
Foot #3A
aurora
5 Series
3 Series
BERNINA
classic
bernette
630
580
550
530
450
380
350PE
330
215
1008
12
15
20
25
46
1
1
1C
1
1
1C
1
1
1
1
1
J
J
T
T
X
2A
--
2
2A
--
2
2A
2
--
--
2
2
opt
G
E
E
--
--
3C
--
3
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
3
3
B
--
--
--
X
3A
3A
3A
3A
3A
3A
3A
3A
3A
3A
3A
3A
--
--
--
D
D
D
--
Zipper Foot #4/4D
4D
4D
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
4
I
I
opt
I
X
Blind Hem Foot #5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
opt opt
F
F
--
Jeans Foot #8/8D
Darning Foot #9
---
---
8
--
---
---
8
--
---
---
-9
8
--
---
8
--
---
---
--- -opt opt opt
-X
---
Button Sew-On
Foot #18
18
--
18
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
Open Embroidery
Foot #20/20C/20D
Patchwork Foot
#37/37D
20C
20C
20C
20
20
20C
20
--
20C
20
--
20
--
--
37D
--
--
--
--
37
--
--
--
37
--
Sideways Motion
Foot #40C
BERNINA Stitch
Regulator #42
40C
--
40C
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
42
42
42
--
--
opt
42
opt
--
--
Walking Foot #50
--
--
--
--
--
--
50
--
--
--
--
--
83
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
43
--
--
--
--
Circular Embroidery Attachment
83
Freemotion
Couching Foot
#43
X
X
X
X
X
--
opt* X*
A*
A*
--
--
--
opt opt opt opt
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
--
opt opt opt opt
--
* satin stitch foot—no open toe
7/27/11
23