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MODEL
S-101.M
EYELET BUTTONHOLE MACHINE
PARTS AND SERVICE MANUAL
MACHINE SERIAL No:
PART NUMBER
97.1010.0.000
This manual is valid from the machine Serial No.: L112933M
10/2013
LIMITED WARRANTY ON NEW AMF REECE EQUIPMENT
Warranty provisions:
A ninety (90) day limited service labor warranty to correct defects in installation, workmanship, or material without charge for labor. This portion of the warranty applies to machines sold as ”installed” only.
A one (1) year limited material warranty on major component parts to replace materials with defects. Any new part believed defective must be returned freight prepaid to AMF Reece, Inc. for inspection. If, upon inspection, the part or material is determined to be defective, AMF Reece, Inc. will replace it without charge to the customer for parts or material.
Service labor warranty period shall begin on the completed installation date. Material warranty shall begin on the date the equipment is shipped from AMF Reece, Inc.
Exclusions:
Excluded from both service labor warranty and material warranty are: (1) Consumable parts which would be normally considered replaceable in day-to-day operations. These include parts such as needles, knives, loopers and spreaders. (2) Normal adjustment and routine maintenance. This is the sole responsibility of the customer. (3) Cleaning and lubrication of equipment. (4) Parts found to be altered, broken or damaged due to neglect or improper installation or application. (5) Damage caused by the use of non-Genuine AMF Reece parts. (6) Shipping or delivery charges.
There is no service labor warranty for machines sold as ”uninstalled”.
Equipment installed without the assistance of a certified technician (either an AMF Reece Employee, a Certified Contractor, or that of an Authorized Distributor) will have the limited material warranty only.
Only the defective material will be covered. Any charges associated with the use of an AMF Reece
Technician or that of a Distributor to replace the defective part will be the customer’s responsibility.
NO OTHER WARRANTY, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, AS TO DESCRIPTION, QUALITY, MERCHANTABIL-
ITY, and FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, OR ANY OTHER MATTER IS GIVEN BY SELLER
OR SELLER’S AGENT IN CONNECTION HEREWITH. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHALL SELL-
ER OR SELLER’S AGENT BE LIABLE FOR LOSS OF PROFITS OR ANY OTHER DIRECT OR INDI-
RECT COSTS, EXPENSES, LOSSES OR DAMAGES ARISING OUT OF DEFECTS IN OR FAILURE
OF THE EQUIPMENT OR ANY PART THEREOF.
WHAT TO DO IF THERE IS A QUESTION REGARDING WARRANTY
If a machine is purchased through an authorized AMF Reece, Inc. distributor, warranty questions should be first directed to that distributor. However, the satisfaction and goodwill of our customers are of primary concern to AMF Reece, Inc. In the event that a warranty matter is not handled to your satisfaction, please contact AMF Reece office:
Prostejov, Czech Republic
Phone: (+420) 582-309-275
Fax: (+420) 582-360-608 e-mail: [email protected]
Warranty Registration Card
(Please Fax or Mail immediately after installation)
Note: All Warranty Claims Void, unless Registration Card on file at AMF Reece HQ
Machine model number:
(S101, S100, S104, S105, S311, Decostitch, S4000, EBS Mark II, etc)
Manufacturer‘s serial or production number:
Installation Site Information:
Customer‘s Name:
Customer‘s Mailing Address:
Customer‘s Telephone Number:
Supervising Mechanic‘s or Technician‘s Name:
Signature of Supervising Technician:
AMF Reece Technician‘s Name:
AMF Reece Technician‘s Signature:
Type of garment produced at this location?
Average Daily Production Expected from this machine?
(number of buttonholes, jackets sewn, pants produced, buttons sewn, etc)
Any special requirements required at this location?
What other AMF Reece Machines are at this location?
How can we serve you better?
TABLE OF CONTENTS
A - INTRODUCTION
1. General information......................................................................................................1-1
2. Safety labels and devices...............................................................................................1-2
3. Terminology of machine parts.........................................................................................1-3
4. Terminology of buttonhole parts................................................................................1-4
5. Technical condition.....................................................................................................1-5
6. Coloured markings....................................................................................................1-6
7. Safety instructions for operators and servicemen .....................................................1-6
8. Special equipment ....................................................................................................1-8
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
1. Contents of consigment.............................................................................................1-9
2. Sewing head installation onto the table......................................................................1-9
3. Thread stand installation...........................................................................................1-10
4. Connecting machine with distribution of electricity....................................................1-11
5. Belt tension assembly and adjustment.....................................................................1-15
C - CORRECT USAGE
1. Buttonhole sewing process.......................................................................................1-16
2. Needle exchange......................................................................................................1-17
3. Threading the machine.............................................................................................1-17
4. Principles of sewing..................................................................................................1-21
5. Machine description and its functions.......................................................................1-22
6. Changing seaming width...........................................................................................1-22
7. Stitch density adjustment / changing the buttonhole shape - with - withot eye.........1-23
8. Stitching lenght and flybar adjustment......................................................................1-24
9. Changing the position of stitch row - gaps for cut ...................................................1-25
10.Setting the spread of the clamp feet........................................................................1-25
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
1. Table adjustment......................................................................................................1-26
2. Stopping mechanism................................................................................................1-28
3. Stopping stroke adjustment......................................................................................1-30
4. Barke adjustment......................................................................................................1-31
5. Turning mechanism alignment.................................................................................1-32
6. Buttonhole shape adjustment...................................................................................1-33
7. Needle bar height.....................................................................................................1-34
8. Loopers adjustment..................................................................................................1-35
9. Spreaders adjustment...............................................................................................1-37
10. Upper thread trimming.............................................................................................1-38
11. Upper thread tension................................................................................................1-39
12. Sewing switch lewer.................................................................................................1-40
13. Material cutting mechanism adjustment...................................................................1-41
14. Adjustment of clamping mechanism.........................................................................1-43
15. Cut before and cut after adjustment........................................................................1-45
E - MAINTENANCE
1. Machine cleaning and maintenance..........................................................................1-46
2. Summary of maintenance..........................................................................................1-47
3. Machine lubrication ..................................................................................................1-48
4. Disposal provisions ..................................................................................................1-51
S-101.M
A - INTRODUCTION
1. GENERAL INFORMATION
S-101.M sewing machine is intended for sewing buttonholes on outwear. It has been designed and manufactured to be reliable and easy to operate. Special attention is paid to ensure ease and effective safety for machine operators and servicemen.
Safety mechanisms protect both, operators and the machine, and respect valid safety and hygiene provisions for usual technological usage of the machine. Those safety mechanisms contain electrical plug, operation switch (circuit breaker) and covers ensuring safety operation on the machines; only if they are fitted onto the machine correctly.
There are information labels on the machine to point out additional danger. Do not remove or damage those labels.
In case of damage, order a new one. Mentioned warnings cannot cover all safety aspects and therefore it is very important for an operator to read this manual carefully and understand it well before he starts operating the machine.
It will also eliminate errors during machine installation and its operation. Do not put the machine into operation unless you have read entire manuals supplied with the machine and have understood each function and procedure.
There are four categories of safety instructions in this manual:
DANGER! Ignoring instructions may endanger operator’s life.
CAUTION! Ignoring instructions may cause a serious injury of the operator or damage the machine.
WARNING! Ignoring instructions may cause damage on the machine or injury of the operator.
NOTICE! Breaking procedures may cause functional problems of the machine.
We recommend that servicemen from AMF Reece supervise the installation of the machines and initial training of your mechanics and operators.
The most effective method ensuring safety of operators working on the machine is a strict safety program including instructions for safety operation. Operators and servicemen should wear safety glasses.
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1-1
S-101.M
2. SAFETY LABELS AND DEVICES
A - INTRODUCTION
1
2
3
4
Caution when removing cover, electric current possible injury
Danger - possible injury
Caution when removing cover, possible injury
Grounding
5
6
7
8
9
Rotation direction
Switch
Needle-bar cover
Drive belt cover
Foot pedal
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A - INTRODUCTION
3. TERMINOLOGY OF MACHINE PARTS
10
11
16
17
18
12
13
14
15
19
20
21
22
Thread stand
Table
Stand
Hand wheel
Drive belt cover
Motor
Hand screw
Needle bar
Clamp feet
Lever for fabric clamping
Start lever
Cutting lever
Sewing table
S-101.M
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1-3
S-101.M
A - INTRODUCTION
4. TERMINOLOGY OF BUTTONHOLE PARTS
3
13
2
5
1
12
8
9
11
4
1
2
3
4
5
First row of stitches
Second row of stitches (CA)
Density in the eye
Shear gap
Stitch density = the number of stitches
in 1 cm (C7)
The bigger density, the better quality look
of the buttonhole
6
7
Bite size = the width of side stitches (C6)
Lengthwise pre-sewing
6
10
7
8 Length of cut. Material can be cut before
sewing (CB) or after sewing (CA) the
buttonhole. Cut before (CB) can be used on
firm thick materials only
9 Total buttonhole length = lenght of sewing
mehsuped from the top of cutting
10
11
12
13
Flybar (AF)
Open end
Eye width (material cutting)
Eye length (material cutting)
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S-101.M
A - INTRODUCTION
5. TECHNICAL CONDITIONS
S-101.M
Mechanical eyelet buttonhole machine with chain stitch can be used on men and ladies’ garments. Gimp can be also used. With a simple change, the following types of buttonholes can be sewn:
- flybar
- with eye
- without eye
- without bar
- with eye
- without eye
Description
Sewing speed
Stitch type
Buttonhole lenght
Stitch density
Stitch bite
Buttonhole types
Parameters
Up to 1900 spm
401 two thread chainstitch
13 - 32 mm (1/2”-1 1/4”)
3 - 16 st/cm
4 to 12
2 ...4 mm
Eye types
Fly bar lenght
Maximum clamp height
Maximum work thickness
Buttonhole cutting mode
Cutting space
Bedplate movement
Needle system
Recomended thread*
Operating condition
Machine db level
Machine head dimension
Machine head weight
Table dimension
Machine weight
Electrical requirements
No eye; 2,7x 4,3 mm
3,0 to 7,0 mm
10 mm to 6 mm
Cut before (CB),
Cut after (CA)
- 0,50 to + 1,8 mm
40 mm
02.0501.0.111 (Nm 90, 100, 110)
70, 100, 120, gimp 11{120.
Yes
According to IEC 364-3, IEC 364-5-51 temperature from +5°C to 40°C, relative air humidity from 30 to 80%
Max. 80 dB/ stoping 82 dB
800 mm (height) x 640 mm (width) x 790 mm (depth)
89 kg (152 lbs)
750 mm (height) x 1100 mm (width) x 700 mm (depth)
158 kg
230 V 50/60 Hz 3 Ph
400 V 50/60 Hz 3 Ph
230 V 50/60 Hz 1 Ph
110 V 60 Hz 1 Ph
NOTICE!
If you use threads 100 thick or less, the manufacturer recommend using the left looper order number 11.4005.0.005
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1-5
S-101.M
A - INTRODUCTION
6. COLOURED MARKING
Screw - top links: Yellow marks — 1. Loosing and following disassembly of this link causes
distinctive intervention to the mechanism adjustment, was
done when assembled and sewed off at the that factory.
2. After such an intervention to the mechanism, new
adjustment of set mechanism needs to be done and complete
check of whole machine adjustment as well.
Blue marks — Screws and nuts secured against loosing with glue
„LOCTITE“.
Lubrication locations: Red marks — CAUTION: Lubrication regime adherance is necessary
for protection of the reliable long-term machine operation.
7. SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR OPERATORS AND SERVICEMEN
When positioning the machine onto its operational place, we recommend keeping the minimal distance of the machine as in the drawing. Follow the instructions below. Do not start the machine unless you have carefully read the operator’s manual.
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S-101.M
A - INTRODUCTION
DANGER !
• Before connecting the machine with the power, make sure all covers are mantled onto the machine.
• If any of the safety covers needs to be dismantled, turn the main switch off, and possibly unplug the power from the socket.
• Do not connect the machine with the power if any of the covers is dismantled.
• Once the machine is connected with the power, check the rotation of the pulley.
CAUTION !
• Remember the position of the switch so that you can use it from any position.
• Make sure that the power, its dimension and circuit breaker provides constant power supply to ensure reliable performance of the machine.
• Check that none of the cables is damaged in order to prevent accident injury from happening by touching them.
• Damaged covers must be immediately repaired or replaced with new ones.
• Never touch rotating parts.
• Never put fingers into the sewing area.
• Turn the main switch off before you change a needle.
• Unplug the power cord from the socket before you clean or maintain the machine.
• If you do not work on the machine, disconnect the power with the main switch.
• Do not make any modifications in the machine that would endanger its safety.
• Be aware that every machine part can become dangerous if they are not handled or serviced the right way. It is important that everybody working with the machine – operate it or do the maintenance on it – gets acquainted with information in this instruction book and in the spare parts manual.
WARNING !
• Keep maintaining the machine regularly as described in the manual.
• If the power is cut off, turn the main switch off.
• Do not paint, do not damage, do not remove or change the safety labels. Keep them clean. If they are not legible or you loose them, order new ones at our company and place it onto their original location.
• Bind your long hair – it can be caught and winded by the driving mechanism.
• Buttons (hooks) on your sleeves must be buttoned up so that loose parts of your outfit are not winded into the driving mechanism.
• Do not work onto the machine impaired or intoxicated.
• If you are unsure of the operation process, call up a serviceman.
• The machine user must provide for illuminating the working area – minimum 750 Lux.
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1-7
S-101.M
A - INTRODUCTION
8. SPECIAL EQUIPMENT
8.1. Work light 1
- standard light can be ordered additionally, order number 12.0008.4.875
8.2. Set up gauge 2
8.3. Buttonhole distance kit 3
8.4. Loopers
- 11.4005.0.001 - for single thread stitch
- 11.5005.0.005 - for sewing thin threads
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S-101.M
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
1. CONTENT OF CONSIGNMENT
1.1. If not stated otherwise, the consignment contains the following:
• machine head
• cardboard with accessories (specification in the Spare
Parts section 3-58)
• thread stand dismantled 1
• operator’s manual with Spare Parts list
• stand dismantled with motor (if ordered)
1.2. When unpacking the machine, it is necessary to follow marks placed on the wrapping.
WARNING!
Visible damaged of the consignment that happened during the shipment must be immediately reported to the carrier. Check the content of the consignment with the order. Possible impediments must be immediately reported to the manufacturer. Later claims cannot be acknowledged!
1
2. SEWING HEAD INSTALLATION ONTO THE TABLE
2.1. Once you unpack the machine, install it onto its intended place. Follow the instructions in this service manual to asamble the stand dismantled. The machine is supplited with a stand of a standard height. The recommended height of the table is 780 mm measured from the floor.
For work while seated use a chair with adjustable height. The desk height can be adjusted by lifting it up once loose the screws 5 . Tighten the screws firmly after the adjustment.
2.2. The stability is secured with the rear support 2 , that is operated with a hand screw 3 . Check the desk level.
2.3. Place the pubber cushions 4 , supplied in the standard accessory, onto, appropriate holes of the table.
2.4. Unpack the sewing head 6 , set it onto the rubber cushions 4 . To fasten the sewing head liseing the screws
7 , the steel washers 8 and the rubber cushions 9 , supplied in the standard accessory.
WARNING!
For rising the machine hold it by the case, not by the bedplate!
NOTE!
If not supplied with the machine a full instruction manual for assambling the manufacturer, order number 97.0104.0.020.
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1-9
S-101.M
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
3. THREAD STAND INSTALLATION
3.1. Put the thread stad together according to the drawing
3.2. Position of the locking ring 1 allows assembly of the thread stand for various thicknes of table top. Threaded end of the post 6 must not extend more than 1 mm (1/32“) through the locking nut 5 .
3.3. Insert the washer 2 and the post into the hole provided in the right rear of the table top 3 .
Insert the washer 4 and tighten the nut 5 .
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S-101.M
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
4. CONNECTING MACHINE WITH DISTRIBUTION OF ELECTRICITY
4.1. Once you mount the machine sewing head onto the stand connect the power cord with the socket. No appliances can not be connected with the socket - circuit protection. Teh pulley in teh rear left must rotate clock wise once you connect the power cord with the socket, switch on the switch and press the foot pedal.
CAUTION!
It is necessary to connect the conductive construction elements of the machine according to the diagram number 4.7.
WARNING!
The electrical connection can be done by an appropriate electrical qualification person only. power point. The pulley placed under the rear removable cover must turn clockwise when connected to the power point, when the switch turned on and when the foot pedal pressed down.
4.2. Diagram connection legend:
XP - main switch - plug
M1
W1
QMF1 - workswitch - circuit breaker feed
W2 - feed cable for M1
C1 - starting capacitor
4.3. Diagram of connection 1N+PE 110V/60Hz:
SECURING
OF FEEDING
SOCKET
MAIN SWITCH
OF THE PLUG
MOVABLE
FEEDING
WORK SWITCH - CIRCUIT BREAKER
WITH OVER CURRENT PROTECTION
NO-VOLTAGE
RELEACE
RECOMMENDED
SECURING
PROTECTION FROM JANGEROUS TOUCH
REALIZED ACCORDING TO EN 60204
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17.0007.8.171
1-11
S-101.M
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
4.4. Diagram of connection IN+PE 230V/50Hz
SECURING
OF FEEDING
SOCKET
MAIN SWITCH
OF THE PLUG
MOVABLE
FEEDING
WORK SWITCH - CIRCUIT BREAKER
WITH OVER CURRENT PROTECTION
NO-VOLTAGE
RELEACE
RECOMMENDED
SECURING
PROTECTION FROM JANGEROUS TOUCH
REALIZED ACCORDING TO EN 60204
17.0007.8.172
4.5. Diagram of connection 3N+PE 230V/60Hz:
SECURING
OF FEEDING
SOCKET
MAIN SWITCH
OF THE PLUG
MOVABLE
FEEDING
WORK SWITCH - CIRCUIT BREAKER
WITH OVER CURRENT PROTECTION
NO-VOLTAGE
RELEACE
RECOMMENDED
SECURING
PROTECTION FROM JANGEROUS TOUCH
REALIZED ACCORDING TO EN 60204
1-12
17.0007.8.173
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B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
4.6. Diagram of connection 3N+PE 400V/50Hz
SECURING
OF FEEDING
SOCKET
MAIN SWITCH
OF THE PLUG
MOVABLE
FEEDING
WORK SWITCH - CIRCUIT BREAKER
WITH OVER CURRENT PROTECTION
NO-VOLTAGE
RELEACE
S-101.M
RECOMMENDED
SECURING
PROTECTION FROM JANGEROUS TOUCH
REALIZED ACCORDING TO EN 60204
4.7. Diagram of connection of conductive construction elements
17.0007.8.173
PROTECTION FROM JANGEROUS TOUCH
REALIZED ACCORDING TO EN 60204-1
Outer connector for potential difference equalizing marked in the scheme.
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LEGEND: - EYLET BUTTONHOLE MACHINE
- 3 F MOTOR; 1148/C
- WORK SWITCH - CIRCUIT BREAKER WITH
OWERCURRENT PROTECTION SM 1-2,5
- OUTER CONNECTOR FOR POTENTIAL
DIFFERENCE EQUALIZING; SCREW M6-30
FROM BRASS
1-13
S-101.M
4.8. Installation diagram
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
1-14
- EYLET BUTTONHOLE MACHINE
- WORK SWITCH-CIRCUIT BREAKER WITH OVERCURRENT PROTECTION SM 1-2,5
- MAIN SWITCH, PLUG
- 3 F MOTOR; 1148
- FEED CABEL
- FEED CABEL FOR M1
- OUTER CONNECTOR FOR POTENTIAL DIFFERENCE EQUALIZING SCREW M6-30 FROM BRASS
- INSRTION TRAY
- CLIP “A”
PROTECTION FROM DANGEROUS TOUCH REALIZED ACCORDING TO EN 60204-1
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S-101.M
B - MACHINE INSTALLATION
5. BELT ASSEMBLY AND ADJUSTMENT
An appropriate Jackshaft Ass. pulley 8 shall be used according to the mains power system (line power) frequency
– either 50 Hz or 60 Hz.
WARNING!
The machine can be seriously damaged when operated at higher frequency than recommended by the machine supplier (AMF Reece).
5.1 Remove the belt cover 1 and loose the nut 2 . Tense the timing belt 4 by skewing the motor 3 . Tighten the nut
2 afterwards.
5.2 By loosing the screws on gearbox 5 adjust the timing belt 6 tension. Then, tighten the screws again.
5.3 Install the leather belts onto pulleys (the right belt from Jackshaft Ass. to the hand-wheel pulley, the left belt 7 crossed to the fast-feed pulley). Consequently, adjust the connecting-rod between motor and pedal. Check correct direction of pulley rotation. Install the pulley cover.
WARNING!
Too loose leather belts can cause machine stopping during material cutting.
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1-15
S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
1. BUTTONHOLE SEWING PROCESS
1.1. Read carefully all safety instructions and make sure all covers are mantled onto the machine.
1.2. Put lubrication oil into lubrication holes marked as „oil“, check that theke a right amount of oil in the oil reservoir with oil gauge (see section E3).
1.3. Check, whether the upper thread and gimp are threaded correctly, as in Section C3.
1.4. Before starting the machine for the first time, put a small piece of fabric, similar to your piece to be sewn, under the clamps.
1.5. Plug the power cord into the socket and start the motor with the operation switch (circuit breaker) 1 .
1.6. Press the foot pedal 2 to activate the machine drive. Make sure that the drive pulley under the rear tilt cover moves clockwise.
WARNING!
To make certain that the machine sews correctly, we recommend sewing a few buttonholes on a scrap piece of fabric.
It will also remove excess oil from the sewing area. When the machine is in the operation, do not try to hold or move the sewn fabric with your hands.
1.7. Place the fabric under the clamp feet.
1.8. Moving the lever for manual clamping 3 towards the operator will bring the clamping feet 8 down and they will clamp the fabric.
1.9. Press the start up lever 4 . The clamping feet go down automatically. Once the sewing is finished and buttonhole cut, the clamping feet go up.
1.10. If it is necessary to interrupt the sewing during the cycle, pull the stop lever 6 . The machine finishes the cycle without sewing and the clamps go up.
1.11. You can stop the machine at any moment during the cycle with the foot pedal 2 (pressing the pedal by your tiptoe stops the sewing, pressing the pedal with your heel starts the sewing again).
1.12. To start the cycle witmout sewing, it is necessary to lift the supporting lever 7 and once youturn the machieon, the machine finishes the cycle without sewing.
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
2. NEEDLE EXCHANGE
2.1. Loosen the securing screw of the needle 2 and remove the original needle.
2.2. Place the needle so that the grove A of the needle is on the other side than the tensor 3 . The needle must not have broken tip or other defect. You can check whether it is straight, if you roll the needle on the flat pad. A good needle does not deflect in the tip.
2.3. Tighten the screw 2 .
3. THREADING THE MACHINE
WARNING!
make sure the power is switched off!
Look and quality of the buttonhole is influenced by:
- threads, their elasticity and resistance to breakage
- thread thickness – make sure that thread has the same thickness
- material sewn (thickness, density, fiber direction)
- upper and lower thread tension
- stitch density - see section A5
- stitch width
- technology of sewing process (size of material spreading, distance of stitches from the cut edge)
Correct buttonhole should have:
- uniform stitch density
- consistent chain formation
- symmetric eye shape
- proportional shape and size
- smoothly trimmed threads
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
Pull threads on as shown in the pictures below. Use the threading tool 1 (in the machine accessories) to make the pulling easier. The threading tool 2 can be ordered (order number 12.0008.6.200). Thread tension is adjusted with the nut 4 as per sewing conditions. It is necessaryto side adjust the thread passes position, that passes through the fixedthread tension 3 considering the upper adjustable thread tension dises.
3.1. Threading upper thread in the machine
THREAD
1-18
Into needle bar Form thread supply
Note: Thread makes 1.5x turns around the roller.
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
3.2. Threading lower thread can be done once the machine arm lifted 6 . Is lifted and the clamping plates 7 are removed as shown in the previous picture, process described in section E1, point 1.2.
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
3.3. Threading gimp with a guide 8 into the race and stitching plate 9 .
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
4. PRINCIPLES OF SEWING
S-101.M machine manufactured by AMF Reece sews with a two-thread chain buttonhole stitch with the possibility to use gimp 3 . The principle of a chain stitch is weaving two so called endless threads, upper thread 1 and lower thread 2 , that enables sewing applications without the necessity to refill the supply of lower thread – as it is usual when sewing lockstitches.
On a regular basis, gimp is inserted into the face side of the work piece (on the seam side – bottom side - of the work piece when sewing onto the machine). The machine can be additionaly equipped with top guide of gimp for its insection ON the seam side-bottom side of the work piece.
Gimp - creates plastic look of a buttonhole and together with a bottom thread decorative stitch provides the shape and firmness of a buttonhole.
Decorative stitch – creates plastic shape nearer the cut. The upper thread makes a covering stitching on the upper side of the fabric.
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
5. MACHINE DESCRIPTION AND ITS FUNCTIONS
The supplied machine is a box-type piece of equipment with an optimally raised working area above the table desk.
The arm with the sewing mechanism is placed in the folding frame to adjust and pull in threads. The machine is installed so that t suits the seated or standing operator.
Machines are adjusted “cut after sewing” (CA) at the manufacturer, unless specified otherwise. The base position of a working plate of such adjusted a machine is in its rear dead point. After the start of the machine, the plate moves towards the operator, during which time the clamps clamp the work piece and the plate moves to the point where the buttonhole sewing is suppose to start. The feet automatically stretch the work piece in order to ensure high quality of sewing. The size of opening is adjustable. The sewing mechanism automatically starts sewing in the place of the buttonhole by releasing the clutch of the drive shaft and the buttonhole is sewn. The starting moment and the buttonhole length can be adjusted by changing the cutting steel, possibly the knife too.
Once the sewing of a buttonhole is finished, the needle is set in the upper position and the plate moves to the position where upper thread is trimmed. After that, the work piece is cut, the clamps open themselves and the work piece is released. The whole cycle, excluding the sewing, can be run by the hand wheel on the left side of the machine under the removable cover.
The machine operation can be stopped immediately with the operational switch (breaker) or table pedal.
6. CHANGING SEAMING WIDTH
The standard range of seaming width – from 2,0 up to 4,0 mm can be changed by loosing the nut 1 , shifting it to a desired position (±) and tightening it back again.
A B
WARNING!
When adjusting this device, check the needle position against the hole for gimp in the stitching plate. The needle tip must not go through the hole during centre and side prick. This way you can check that the gimp will be sewn between the stitching rows.
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
7. STITCH DENSITY ADJUSTMENT / CHANGING THE BUTTONHOLE SHAPE - WITH - WITHOUT EYE
Stitch density adjustment can be done throught the hole in the right side base cover.
7.1. To adjust the number of stitches, loose the nut 1 and move the drawbar 2 forward → A or backward → B
(forward to increase the number of stitches, backward to decrease the number of stitches) as needed. Once you finish the adjustment, tighten the nut 1 .
7.2. The technique to change the number of stitches in the eye is different for sewing buttonholes with eyes. The adjustments of a buttonhole whout eye (NO EYE) can be done once you remove the back arm cover . To sew a buttonhole without eye, move the lever 3 forward → C. Loosen the screw 4 , move the pin 5 forward or backward
(forward to increase the number of stitches, backward to decrease the number of stitches). Once you finish the adjustment, tighten the screw 4 . The pin 5 controls the descent of the roll 6 on the inclined plane in the moment of the race turning.
7.3. The change when sewing a buttonhole without/ with eyeis done by rotation of lever 7 about 180° in the direction to the second position. Shown positionis sewing the buttonhole with eye (on the lever is written „EYE“). The second position is for sewing the buttonhole without eye (on the lever is written „NO EYE“).
B A
D C
C D
NOTE!
The stitch density slightly changes as the main cam brake wears out during the machine operation.
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
8. STITCHING LENGTH AND FLYBAR ADJUSTMENT
8.1. The length of stitching, it means the moment when the sewing process begins with the movement of working desk can be influenced as follows: loosen the screw 4 of the dial gauge 5 and move it 5 so that the required length of stitching on the dial gauge 5 is at the same point as the edge of the mark 2 .
Tighten the screw 4 . The total length of stitching L is now set up – see the picture.
WARNING!
The total length of stitching is the length of cut + the length of seaming.
8.2. If a buttonhole with flybar is to be sewn, it is necessary to loosen the screw 1 of the ruler 3 , move the ruler 3 towards the operator (to obtain longer flybar) or off the operator (to shorten flybar, or eliminate it). This is the technique to adjust the P length – see the picture.
WARNING!
If you adjust the length, you must install a cutting steel of the corresponding length.
A B
D
C
A
A
B
B
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S-101.M
C - CORRECT USAGE
9. CHANGING THE POSITION OF STITCH ROW – GAPS FOR CUT
The change of the position of stitch rows is used especially when the thickness of the sewn material changes or when the machine is adjusted from cut before to cut after and vise versa.
After loosing the nut 1 , you can change the setting by rotating the excentric pin according to the drawing. By moving it towards the operator the cutting space is extended, by moving away from the operator it is reduced. Tighten the nut
1 securely afterwards.
A B
WARNING!
When you change the gap between both rows of stitches, you may need to adjust the sewing mechanism as well. It is also necessary to check, if the needle is not hitting the edge of the stitching plate so that the needle will not brake.
10. SETTING THE SPREAD OF THE CLAMP FEET
Different types of material require larger or smaller spread of the material between the clamp feet. In order to change the spread, use the setting shown in the picture.
Loosen the screw 1 at each side of the machine and move the setting stops 2 inward → A, to make the spread wider - and outward → B, to make the spread narrower.
NOTE!
Make sure that the spread is equal on both sides.
A
A
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B
B
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
WARNING!
Do not start any maintenance work before you read the service manual with instructions for mechanics – Sections D and E.
DANGER!
• Before you start doing any maintenance work, always turn the operational switch (breaker) off and unplug the power cord. That will eliminate the possibility of the machine being accidentally switched on by another person.
• Make sure that the power cord is secured against any mechanical breakage.
CAUTION!
• Maintenance work must be done by a qualified person only.
• When changing defective parts, use parts corresponding with original ones.
• Do not run the machine unless all covers dismantled for maintenance purposes were placed back.
• Wipe away spilt oil. Keep the working area clean.
WARNING!
• Read carefully the entire manual for servicemen.
• Use specified kinds of lubrication or their equivalents only.
We are not responsible for claims that happen due to violating these instructions.
1. TABLE ADJUSTMENT
NOTE!
The holder of switching pins of the fly bar is adjusted and fixed with pins at the manufacturer. There is no need to adjust the pins if they move freely. In case the pins don´t snap in freely, follow below steps:
1.1. Adjust the machine for a buttonhole without eye according to the section C 7.3.
1.2. Lift up the machine. Turn the left shift 1 until the looper mechanism start turning. The roll 2 is in the position
9 . Of the cam travel 3 . The switching pins 4 must freely snap into the groov 6 .
1.3. At the end of the buttonhole, before the home position, in the beginning of the race return turn, the right pin 4 is in the guiding travel 5 . Loosen the screew 7 on the lever. Adjust the lever 8 , so that the pin leaves the guiding travel freely without the table moving side ways. Tighten the screw 7 .
1.4. After the machine is started again, by turning the hand wheel 1 and the race turning in the eye (loopers in the rear position) adjust the of the right pin about half way 3 ...3,5 mm into the guuding travel, by nuts on the draw bar 13 .
1.5. Once the left pin snaps into the guiding travel (the narrower section of the travel), adjust the depth of the pin about half way 3 ... 3,5 mm into the guiding travel 5 as well, by nuts on the draw bar.
1.6. Once the roll 2 is moved into the furthest position from the at the bottom of the eccentric (looking from the right side) before the eye (before turning the race) adjust the position so that the left pin is about 1 mm above the guiding travel.
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D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
S-101.M
WARNING!
The holder 12 of the pins 4 is at the manufacturer fitted by wedges and fined with a pin. Do not change the position of wedges. Switching over the pins can be adjusted after turning the cam in to the position when the roll 2 is in the position 9 of cam travel 3 . The pin 4 should leave the groove 5 in the cam at this point. If not, adjust the bracket
10 as needed once you loos the screen 11 .
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D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2. STOPPING MECHANISM
2.1. Adjustment is done out of sewing process in the home position of the machine, it means during the time when the stopping mechanism blocks the movement of sewing shaft. It is impossible to turn the hand wheel 1 . The play of the roll in this position is 0,1-0,2mm above the ruler 3 . Stopping lever 4 secures the roll stud 5 . Loosen the nut
6 , set up gap between the roll play min 0,1mm.
2 and the ruler 3 by the screw 7 . Then set up the stop to the roll stud having the
m
,3 m
2
0
-0
0,1 mm
2.2. The play between the brake 9 and the hand wheel cam 10 is supposed to be 0,1mm max. Adjust it once you loosen the screw. Pulling the blocking lever forward, move the hand wheel anti clockwise. In the lowest point of the hand wheel cam, when the play is set, tighten the screw. Make sure that the lever does not have axial play on the shaft. Tighten the screw and check the play between the roll 2 and the draw bar 3 .
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
2.3. Turn the hand wheel 1 to keep the stop 14 at the lever 11 in A position. Turn the left wheel 13 until the stop 14 of the right stopping wheel gets released. Once the stop is realesed, stop turning!
2.4. The play of 0,1 ...0,2 mm between the dogs 14 can be adjusted by loosing the screw 15 , moving the wheel 16 inside or outside as necessary. Tighten the screw 15 after the adjustment.
0,10...0,20
B
2.5. Turn the hand wheel 1 until the stop gets into B position. Turn the left wheel 13 to the point where the roll 2 reaches the highest point of the draw bar 3 , which is the furthest movement backwards that the stopping lever 11 can make. Adjust the play 0.2-0.3mm point between the block 17 and the lever 18 , once you loosen the nut 19 .
2.6. Further wheel 13 movement makes the roll 2 leave the highest point 3 . At this point, release the lever 18 that is fitted onto the block 17 . The brake 9 is in contact with the cam 10 when turning the hand wheel 1 . The paly between the dogs 14 should be cca 0,25mm or more at the end of the sewing cycle. If it is not, loosen the screw 20 in the travel at the left side of the machine and adjust it as necessary. (Towards the operator shaller play, from the bigger play). Test the cycle.
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m
,3 m
2
0
-0
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D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
3. STOPPING STROKE ADJUSTMENT
The friction clutch is set by the manufacturer in order to deaden the initial stroke by sliding, 35 - 47mm from the pulley loop. It corresponds with values from 45 to 60 on the gauge, between the shaft and the drive pulley. To check the adjustment, order the gauge 03.0403.0.000.
WARNING!
The manufacturer does not recommend slippage larger than 55mm. Smaller slippage than 35 mm causes excessive wear-out on all funkcional parts.The clutch stop may get broken.
Take the following steps to check the setting:
3.1. Make a mark 1 on the pulley 2 to the position of the stop nose 3 .
3.2. Start the machine. Sew one cycle with the machine. Switch the machine off.
3.3. Check the slippage value by placing the mark “0” on the gauge 4 onto pulley diametr 1 to the stop nose 3 .
The original mark made on the pulley checks the value of clutch slippage.
3.4. If the value is smaller than 35 mm, bend the nose 5 of the seafety washer and turn the safety nut 6 about
12mm anti clockwise. Lock the nut with a suitable safety nut nose. Check the slippage.
WARNING!
During a long machine operation, the stitch density changes. It is due to main cam and drive shaft brake running.
They need to be checked.
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4. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
0.75 mm
S-101.M
4.1 Adjustment of drive shaft brake
The Drive shaft brake optimalizes the stitch density of the buttonhole seaming on both, left and right side.
1. Loosen the screw 1 of the ring 2 of the drive shaft brake.
2. Set the brake pressure using a suitable tool (screw driver). Set the groove between the flexible washers 3 by pressing them and the ring for approximately cca 0,75mm.
3. Tighten the screw 1 of the ring 2 .
WARNING!
The shaft brake is an emergency brake. If the main shaft brake pressure is too high, machine mechanisms may work incorrectly; especially the stopping mechanism. Set the lowest possible pressure.
4.2 Main cam brake adjustment
The main cam brake affects the stitch density, which is adjusted as in chapter 2. It is a specification given by the manufacturer to set up the distance between stitches. It is necessary to adjust the brake belt again after some machine operation because of wear out.
1. Loosen the safety nuts 4 .
2. Turn the screw 5 increase the pressure of 1/4 turn.
3. Tighten the safety nut 4 .
NOTE!
Combination of pressures of both brakes should make it possible to reach 1,6 mm moving downwards on one stroke with stitch density set up as in section C7.
No more no less!
> 1,6 mm < 1,6 mm
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D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
5. TURNING MECHANISM ALIGNMENT
When the machine does not move, turning segments 1 , 3 are adjusted on the right in the machine axis onto the second segment gear. Supporting area of the looper holder 8 is in vertical position on the table axis 9 . The looper mechanism is adjusted after loosing the screw 2 needle bar mechanism after loosing the screw 4 . Tension disks
7 are forward-facing. Adjust the symmetric turning with the stud with the stud 6 .
5 , and turning sewing mechanism onto 180° ± 2°
C
D
B
A
A B C D
WARNING!
It is very important to move the looper mechanism of
180°only. The turning must be vertical onto horizontal table axis 9 and the correct bite of the needle bar must be in the same distance from the looper mechanism (the needle cannot move further or closer to the edge of the throat plate).
1-32
180°
90°
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
6. BUTTONHOLE SHAPE ADJUSTMENT
To check the buttonhole shape, it is necessary to create a new stitching pattern on a pice of paper with cutting sewing.
Use a tip in the needle bar instead of a needle, to create a stitching pattern on the paper. It is possible to order the tip at the manufacturer, order number 02.0001.0.000.
6.1. Check the new stitching pattern and determine where to adjust the nut 1 to obtain the right eye shape. Use the examples below as guidance.
6.2. Once you loosen the nut 1 placed on the lever 2 move this nut upwards or downwards as needed. If the eye shape corresponds with the picture in the example A, move the nut 1 downwards. If the eye shape corresponds with picture in B, move the nut 1 upwards.
6.3. Tighten the nut 1 after the adjustment. Start the machine and make another stitch pattern. If you did not obtain the required eye shape on the sample, repeat the above mentioned steps.
NOTE!
It is a standard procedure to repeat the process several times.
Button hole shape
A B
A
B
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
7. NEEDLE BAR HEIGHT
Turning the hand wheel on the right side of the machine, lower the needle bar 1 to the bottom position. Use the gauge 4 (03.0279.1.000) to make an adjustment or another similar tool with checking point 15,85 mm from the bottom surface for clamp plates.
- Loosen the collar screw 3 to lower the needle
- Loosen the collar screw collar screws again.
2 to lift up the needle
Set the other collar so that the needle bar does not have ascial play, but turns freely in the turning point. Tighten the
REECE 105
03-0279-1-000
WARNING!
It is recommended not to loosen the upper bearings. The manuifacturer adjusts the bearing in a way that the needle tip is set onto the sewing mechanism axis – such setting eliminates the production variations of machines. Other adjustment can damage parts of the sewing mechanism or break the needle.
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
8. LOOPERS ADJUSTMENT
8.1. Adjustment is done with clamping plates dismantled from the machine, stitching plate and the upper thread trimming knife holder 1 removed.
Loosen the screw 2 to remove it.
8.2. The loopers are adjusted correctly if their tips are in the centre of the needle, when the needle lifts up of 2,4 mm from the bottom dead point. It is suitable to do the adjustment in the moment when the blocking lever is out of function, in the area of sewing. This position can be reached by turning the left hand wheel until the block lever lifts up.
8.3. Adjust the distance of the left looper 5 from the needle after loosing the screw 8 so that there is a gap 0,1-
0,2mm between the needle and the looper tip. Tighten the screw. Adjust the same gap on the right looper 7 when it goes along the needle.
8.4. The needle bar can be lifted up from the bottom position in the centre stitch by turning the hand wheel so that it is possible to stick in a gauge 4 with its higher end between the surface plane for clamping plates and the end of the needle bar. Once you loose the clip screw 3 , move the tip of the left looper 5 onto the needle axis 6 and tighten the screw. Turn the hand wheel until the right looper 7 comes to the needle centre. Side bite should be minimal, as per section C6. The needle bar should be at the same height as at the left looper – check with a gauge 4 .
REECE 105
03-0279-1-000
WARNING!
It is important to check that the gap between left (right) looper is the same in the side bite when coming back as per
8.3. Different gap can be adjusted as per section D5. it is necessary to check the distance of the loopers in 3 positions of the needle bar and the race. (1 st row of stitches, eye tip, 2 nd row of stitches).
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D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
8.5. If it is not like that, loosen the crew 10 and turn slightly the bushing nut 11 with a wrench until the loopers are in the axis of the needle, at the same height.
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
9. SPREADERS ADJUSTMENT
9.1. The position of spreaders is controlled by stoppers 12 . The right spreader 10 needs to be adjusted to the edge of the right looper 9 , the left spreader 11 with its groove to the opening of the left looper 6 . Loosen the screws to change the set up with adjustments of stoppers 12 . The stoppers also define the axial play of the spreaders; after their adjustment, they must not hang.
9.2. Spreaders set up, to achieve correct operation of the left 12 and right looper 10 , is done after loosing the nut 17 and adjusting the tail 18 of the draw bar by turning it. Adjust the right looper so that it is in the home position at the moment of being back in the bottom dead point. This is the key point for spreding of the left spreader. It is important that the distance between the needle and the spreader is same for both spreaders.
WARNING!
Check the play between the right looper and spreader. It must be as small as possible:
Right - 0,05 mm at the most, so that sewing thread cannot slide in between the right loopet and spreader.
Left - 0,1 mm minimum, so that sewing thread cannot slide in between the left loopet and spreader.
Check the play between the needle 7 and the supporting steady 14 . Adjust the steady by bending it to the play of
0,05 mm. Once the stitching plate is fitted in, check the play between the needle 7 and the stitching plate 16 .
According used thread
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D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
10. UPPER THREAD TRIMMING
10.1 After attaching the holder with trimming knife 1 set up the knife vertically to get a clearance of 0.1 – 0.15 mm above the right spreader 4 and tighten the screw 3 . After attaching the throat-plate there must be a clearance between the adjusted knife and throat-plate.
10.2 Adjust the basic angle setting of trimming knife 1 using the screw 2 in the way that left knife edge is away from the area of throat-plate 8 . Adjust the knife so that its blade is 2 mm from the edge of the throat plate.
10.3. The position of the knife 1 to catch the upper thread loop can be changed by loosing the screw 5 so that the knife edge is 0.9 mm from the needle 6 . If the position of the knife changes, it is necessary to check the height – to keep the play as in part 9.1.
10.4. Adjust the basic position of the actuator 9 with the screw 11 after loosing the nut, so that the distance from the arm 10 is 0.5 mm.
10.5. The trimming is adjusted by tilting the lever 13 . Loosen the screw 12 . Tilting the lever 13 further into the direction of the roll 14 travel will make the trimming mechanism action longer. If the lever 13 tilting into the direction of the roll travel is smaller, the trimming mechanism action will be shorter.
WARNING!
Maximal knife tilt 1 , is adjusted at the manufacturer. The trimming knife 1 must not catch with its tip the bottom thread 7 .
Position of looper during trimming
(sewing mechanism closed)
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
11. UPPER THREAD TENSION
The amount of the thread required for sewing another buttonhole changes with the conditions and quality of the sewn workpiece. Thin materials usually require more thread at the beginning of sewing than thick materials. If more than one kind of fabric is being sewn, it is suitable to make the adjustment on the thinnest/lightest fabric.
11.1. Thread tensioner tilts in the direction → X when the machine sews the buttonhole eye. Do the adjustment when ithe machine is in the home position. (When CA set up)
11.2. To obtain thread 1 beginning as long as possible, loosen the screws 2 and turn the cam 3 all the way to the point with the pin 4 at the cam stroke 3 . Then tighten the screws well 2 . To shorten the length of the thread 1 at the beginning of sewing, adjust the position of the cam 3 in the direction of the arrow A → as needed.
X
A
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
12. SEWING SWITCH LEVER
12.1. Loosen the nut 1 of the set screw 2 .
12.2. Screwing in → A will shorten the length of sewing the second row of stitches. Screwing out → B will lengthen the sewing of the second row of stitches. Secure the position with the nut 1 .
A B
B
A
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
13. MATERIAL CUTTING MECHANISM ADJUSTMENT
The adjustable mechanism 7 at this type of machine has the cutting steel fitted into the cutting lever 1 and the cutting knife fitted into the cutting block. The starting point for the adjustment of the cuting mechanism is the needle mechanism and sewing mechanism. The cutting lever 1 is fitted onto the studs 2 and secured with the screw 3 .
The axial play adjust care fully by bringing the studs near/away and secure them in the position, when the cutting lever has minimum play.
13.1. Adjust the knife in Y-axis using the stop 6 ; in X-axis after loosing the screw 5 : to the left ← A or → B to the right .
X
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Y
49,5-0,3 mm
53,5 mm
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D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
The cutting pressure to be adjusted whenchanging the cutting knives or the sewn workpiece. Turn the screw 10 clockwise to increase the pressure. The adjusted pressure must be as small as possible.
NOTE:
To find out, whether the cut is even, press the lever by hands onto the paper. The imprint must be even along the whole length. We do not recommend repairing damaged knives. Use a fine sandpaper or a grinding machine to clean the surface of the cutting steels that are worn out. Any grooves on the cutting steel can cause improper cut of fabric or can damage the cutting knife.
WARNING:
Danger of fast wear-out of the knife or even destruction of mechanism parts. When changing the knife or the cutting steel, recommend decreasing the pressure of at least three revolutions by the screw 10 and increase progressively.
It is necessary to check the cleanness of the cut. The pressure must not be too big that the drive belt slips.
Min.
Max.
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
14. ADJUSTMENT OF CLAMPING MECHANISM
14.1. The basic position of the clamp plates with clamp feet can be adjusted by turning the left hand wheel. The rolls
1 on the knife holder wedge spreader and the clamp plates are spread. Loosing the screws 2 make sit possible to adjust the stoppers 3 . The gap X should be same on both plates (asi 0.8 mm). Alignment of plates is adjusted by the stud 4 . Once it is loosen, check that the distance V is the same for both clamp plates from the knife cut.
14.2. In order to prevent the needle hitting the clamp foot, it is possible to adjust the position of the foot by loosing the screws 5 vertically onto the sewn buttonhole (the recommended gap between the foot and a row of stitches is 0,8 mm) and in longitudinal axis once you loose the screws 6 .
14.3. With its design, the clamping mechanism enables clamping material of different thickness. Clamp a piece of material manually with a lever 7 to adjust the pressure. Use the hand wheel on the left side and turn the main cam so that the ramp 8 lowers down the whole operating mechanism as much as possible. Loosen the stud nut 10 to adjust its position with the screw 11 , once you loosen the nut so that the lever 12 leans against the bottom square surface 15 . Test the function.
14.4. Loosen the nut and adjust the height of the feet 14 above the plates 9 10 mm can be adjusted with a screw
13 .
NOTE!
It is suitable to check the function of the mechanism to adjust levers for both, cut after (CA) and cut before (CB) seaming.
X A B
X
2 mm 4 mm
0,8 mm
1,5 - 2,0 mm
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
14.5. Adjustment of safety latch – turn the left wheel. Once the machine is in the home position and feet levers release, the safety latch 16 should be above the groove placed on the tip of the square 15 . To make adjustment, loosen screws 17 and move the support 19 upwards or downwards as necessary so that the latch 16 drops into the groove. Once the adjustment is done, tighten the screws 17 . The minimal play required between the lever and the tip of the clamping arm is 0,8 mm. To adjust it, loosen the screw 17 and turn the eccentric nut as needed 18 . Tighten the screws after the adjustment.
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S-101.M
D - MACHINE ADJUSTMENT
15. CUT BEFORE AND CUT AFTER ADJUSTMENT
The change between cut after/before is ensured by two functional components, change of the lever 1 position, up left back and by shifting the control lever 2 down. After rearrangement it is necessary to twice mechanically test the machine cycle (without sewing) - the first cycle is usually incomplete. Make the adjustment in the home position:
15.1. Move the lever 1 into the selected position CA or CB (CA = cut after, CB = cut before).
15.2. Loosen the screw 3 and move the control lever in the A direction for cut after, in the B direction for cut before.
Tighten the screw 3 .
WARNING!
Stop screw 4 is adjusted from the manufacturer. Do not manipulate with this stop unles you have serious reason.
CA CB
CAUTION!
Both components must be adjusted for the same sewing type - either CA or CB!
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1-45
S-101.M
E - STANDARD MACHINE
WARNING!
- Do not miss out regular maintenance work.
- If electricity supply is cut off, turn the main switch off.
- Do not damage, modify or remove the safety labels.
- Do not work on the machine intoxicated or impaired.
CAUTION!
- Check electricity cables that they are not damaged.
- Check that all safety covers are in good condition. Replace damaged covers or order new ones!
- Never put your fingers into the sewing mechanism and needle area.
- Never modify the machine in a way that may endanger its safety.
1. MACHINE CLEANING AND MAINTENANCE
1.1. Switch the power supply off.
1.2. To clean and lubricate the mechanisms remove the clamp plates 2 to get access to the sewing area. Turn the security latches 1 . Move the clamp plates 2 slightly to the centre, lift them and move them towards you.
1.3. Tilt the machine head the frame. Clean the remaining threads and material from the sewing area, guides and thread tensioner. It is possible to turn. The sewing mechanism by the hand wheel on the right side of the machine.
1.4. Lubricate the machine as in Section E3.
1.5. Once the inspection and service is finished, tilt back the sewing head into the operation position, insert and secure the clamp plates with latches 1 and now you can continue working.
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E - STANDARD MACHINE
2. SUMMARY OF MAINTENANCE
Once a day (10 hours)
- visual inspection
- cleaning sewing mechanism area and inside the machine frame
- lubrication of rare shaft (see section 3.1)
WARNING! If the waste hole in the knife 2 or incudes 1 block, the knife breaks.
Once a week (80 hours)
- visual inspection of outside and inside mechanisms
- lubrication of needle bar and sewing mechanism
- filling up oil into the oil tank with an oil gauge
- checking belt tension
- checking cutting knife and cutting steels, change parts if damaged
- checking operation of stop mechanism, especially brakes
- checking stitch plate wear out, exchange if necessary
Once a month (300 hours)
- checking clearances in the sewing mechanism drive
- checking screw joinings (keep the values stated below)
M3
M4
M5
M6
M8
M10
Recomended values of screw tightening (Nm)
0,5
1,2
2,5
4,0
0,6
1,5
3,0
5,0
8,0
10,0
0,8
2,0
4,0
7,0
16,0
30,0
S-101.M
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1-47
S-101.M
E - STANDARD MACHINE
3. MACHINE LUBRICATION
Before the machine is switched on for the first time, all preservative oils must be removed. It is also necessary to lubricate all areas shown below. This must be done when the machine is not used for some time too.
3.1. The machine is equipped with group lubrication system, which lowers demands for maintenance. There are red spots or OIL indicating areas that need to be lubricate. These areas must be lubricated at least after every 30 hours of the machine operation. Pay special attention to the lubrication of the rear drive belt by pouring 2 - 3 drops of oil throught the hole in the screw 15 . Every day the manufacturer recomends using lubrication oil TERRESSTIC 68 or other oil of similar characteristic.
3.2. The quantity of oil in the oil tank 15 with an oil gauge is shown by a red mark. Too much oil can leak out.
Fill the empty oil tank with approximately 10 cm3 of oil through the filling hole 1 .
3.3. Needle bar lubrication can be done after loosing the screw 3 and removing the front cover 2 . Pour a few drops of oil onto the needle bar 5 above the bearing 4 , into the centre of the needle bar 5 where the spiral lubrication groove is, onto the gap between washers 6 and onto the flat bite body 14 . Fitt the cover 2 and tighten the screw 3 again.
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E - STANDARD MACHINE
S-101.M
3.4. Remove the clamp plates as stated in section E1 ad) 2 and lubricate the drawbar case 7 and 8 , spreader fasteners 9 and 10 , looper spreader stud 11 , drive drawbar 12 and 13 1-2 drops of oil onto the areas market in the drawing. (marked in red color on the machine). To get better access to the drive drawbar, tilt the machine head.
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1-49
S-101.M
E - STANDARD MACHINE
3.5. Check the machine for further lubrication. Pour 1-2 drops into each place marked with red color. Pay your attention especially for sewing cam, feeding mechanism, side needle bite, drive shaft, cutting lever case and other moving parts.
3.6. Make at least 10 buttonholes on a scrap piece of material after lubrication to eliminate the possibility of making oil stains on a workpiece; wipe off visible remains of oil.
3.7. Put all removed parts back onto the machine, secure the clamping plates.
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S-101.M
E - STANDARD MACHINE
4. DISPOSAL PROVISIONS
4.1. To ensure ecological disposal of machines, it is important to remove nonmetal parts from the machines. Once they are removed, it is necessary to dismantle covers, machine arm and pull it out from the frame.
4.2. Aluminum and hard aluminum parts, non-ferrous metals and plastic parts must be processed differently.
4.3. The parts mentioned in article 4.2 are marked in the manual as follows:
Aluminum and hard aluminum parts
Non-ferrous metals parts
Plastic and non-metal alloys
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1-51
S-101.M
E - STANDARD MACHINE
1-52 Released: 10/2013
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TROUBLESHOOTING
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. INTRODUCTION......................................................................................................................2-2
2. MACHINE DRIVE AND ADJUSTING FAULTS.....................................................................2-3
3. SEWING FAULTS................................................................................................................2-4
4. APPEARANCE DEFECTS ON SEWING BUTTONHOLE...................................................2-5
S-101.M
Revised: 10/2013
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2-1
S-101.M
TROUBLESHOOTING
1. INTRODUCTION
WARNING!
Inspect the machine on regular basic and use only quality parts. The manufacturer recommends usin original AMF
Reece parts, especially needles, loopers, spreaders, and throat plates.
Adjustment quick reference list stroje
NOTE!
Required machine setting is variable according to the fabric and thread variations used. The type of thread and fabric will affect the amount of wear on machine parts. The components marked in yellow are set by manufacturer and do no require further adjustments. Changing the position of components marked in yellow, without the approval of the manufacturer, may cancel the warranty.
To obtain the highest quality buttonhole maintain the following values:
- clearance between the needle and the loopers is 0,05-0,1 mm (0,002-0,004“)
- clearance between the needle and the needle support is 0,05-0,1 mm
- the same distance of the left spreader tip and the right spreader tip when they pass the needle
- left and right looper on the centre of the needle when the stroke is 2,9 mm from the lowest possition
- with the needle bar in the lowest position, the axial clearance is 0,25 mm, (0,010“),
when the pressure power is 5N
- with the needle bar in the lowest position, the radial clearance is, (0,002“),
when the pressure power is 5N
- looper holder axial clearance is 0,05-0,1 mm (0,002-0,004“)
- looper holder radial clearance is 0,1-0,2 mm (0,004-0,008“)
- looper holder angular clearance is 1,2 on the arm 28,5 mm when the pressure power is 5N
2-2
Revised: 10/2013
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S-101.M
TROUBLESHOOTING
2. MACHINE DRIVE AND ADJUSTING FAULTS
SYMPTOM
Motor fails to start
POSSIBLE CAUSE
No power to the motor
Incorrect voltage
Electrical equipment defect
POSSIBLE SOLUTION
Check electrical plug and wiring
Check with a voltage meter
Check: a) main switch b) fuses c) emergency stop switch
The machine fails
Motor started and ran for a short period, then stopped
Icorrect motor rotation
Missing left belt
Circle 13.3123.0.000 and tapped
10.3042.0.000 are not in gear
Change the plugs
Replace the belt a) Replace drive lever spring
01. 5055.0.000
b) Correct the idler pulley travel
13.3039.1.050
Damage keramic circle above - cited Replace injured part
Idler pulley collar clamping screw loose
Correctly position the collar and tighteen the screw
Incorrect pressure on starting lever
11.2012.0.000
Adjust pressure on the spring
01.5019.0.000
Excessive cutting pressure
Stitch mechanism is not rotating
Left belt tension is not correct
Re-adjust cutting pressure
Ensure the drive mechanism releases correctly
Re-adjust tension
Machine fails to stitch and stop
Incorrect stitch lever function
Locked stitch mechanism
Machine fails to stitch, but completes the cycle
Weak stitch lever spring
Faulty stitch lever bumper
Faulty clamp lever spring
Machine fails to stop Incorrect stop mechanism function
Damaged stop mechanism teeth
Broken tension spring
Correctly adjust the stitch lever
Unlock and correctly adjust
Replace the spring 17.0026.3.126
Replace the bumper 11.2016.0.000/ adjust
Replace the spring 17.0026.3.126
Correctly adjust the pressure
Replace or correctly adjust
Replace 01.5055.0.000
Macchine fails to reach the end position
Breaking belt tension too tight
Fast feed pulley stick
Tool katchers circle 13.3123.0.000 or carriers 10.3042.0.000 injure
Excessive cutting pressure
Correctly adjust the pressure
Make pulley motion loose
Replace injure part
Correctly decrase the cutting pressure
SERVICE
SECTION
B - 4
B - 6
D - 13
B - 4
D - 3
D - 13
Revised: 10/2013
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2-3
S-101.M
TROUBLESHOOTING
SYMPTOM
Machine fails to stop, but repeates the cycle
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Damaged or weak starting lever spring
Switching start lever
Knocking noise at the machine start
Incorrect adjusting roller setting
Incorrect adjusting roller setting
Loose carrier dog
Pulley collar incorrectly set for high speed table travel
Machine fails to clamp material or release the material too soon
Incorrect clamps mechanism setting
Machine fails to release material
Uneven clamp feet pressure
Incorrect adjusting roller setting
Clamp disengagement incorrectly adjusted
Rocker lever bearing screw loose
Drive member loose or damaged
Machine fails to cut material
Cutting lever fails to return
Damaged knife
Damaged cutting steel
Incorrect cutting pressure
Damaged cutting lever
Loose machine frame screws
Faulty extension spring
Stagnation on studs 11.1074.0.001
POSSIBLE SOLUTION
Replace the spring 01.5020.0.000
or increase the pressure a) Increase the spring pressure b) Replace the spring
01.5019.0.000
Correctly adjust the roller (CA/CB)
Correctly adjust the roller (CA/CB)
Tighten the carrier dog
Correctly adjust the pulley collar
Correctly adjust the mechanism
Correctly adjust the roller (CA/CB)
Re-adjust clamp
Tighten and adjust the screw a) Replace b) Tighten the screws
Replace
Repair or replace a) Increase the cutting pressure b) Replace the tracing finger
10.1071.1.023
Replace 10.1068.1.050
Tighten the screws
Replace 01.5006.0.001
a) adjust the axial play b) lubricate
SERVICE
SECTION
D - 14
D - 14
D - 14
D - 14
D - 14
D - 13
D - 13
2-4
Revised: 10/2013
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S-101.M
TROUBLESHOOTING
3. SEWING FAULTS
SYMPTOM
Skipping stitches
POSSIBLE CAUSE POSSIBLE SOLUTION
Incorrectly installed needle
Wrong threading
Incorrect thread tension
Bent needle
Replace the needle
Adjust
Adjust the thread tension
Replace
Clearance in sewing drive Adjust
Excessive looper to needle clearance Adjust the clearance
Incorrectly adjusted stitch mech.
Damaged loopers or spreaders
Adjust the stitch mechanism
Clean and repolish the damaged areas, eventually replace
Wear or damaged stitch plate
Weak reverse spring on spreaders
Excessive clamp foot to needle entry point clearance
Incorrect clamping
Not even spreading - loose fabric
Elastic material
Replace
Replace
Adjust to 1 mm
Pressure and adjustment checking
Adjust
Adjust the sewing mechanism
Ensure the thread is clamped firmly
Adjust the left spreader position
Skipped stitch at the sew start
Sew start thread lenght too short
The fork of left spreader is out of the looper hole
Incorrect right looper timming
Big clamp distance from sewing
Damaged or bent looper
Incorrect thread tension
Removing stitches at the end of the sewing
Breakage of upper thread
Incorrect upper thread tension release
Damaged right looper
Damaged throat plate hole
Incorrect right looper and needle timming
Incorrect threading
Excessive thread tension
Incorrect threads (week, asleep)
Damaged thread guide
Incorrectly installed needle
Damaged needle
Damaged loopers (spreaders)
Needle hits the throat plate
Needle and looper touch (contact)
Incorrectly adjusted trimming knife
Adjust the right looper timmig
Adjust to max. 1 mm
Replace
Adjust the thread tension
Correct the upper thread tension release
Replace the looper 14.4004.0.000
Replace the throat plate
Correct the right looper and needle timming
Correct it
Adjust optimal
Use firmed threads
Repair or replace
Correctly install the needle
Replace
Repair or replace
Adjust
Adjust the clearance
Adjust it optimal
SERVICE
SECTION
C - 2
C - 3
C - 3
D - 8
D - 14
D - 14
D - 14
D - 9
D - 9
D - 11
D - 8
C - 3
D - 11
C - 2
C - 2
Revised: 10/2013
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2-5
S-101.M
TROUBLESHOOTING
SYMPTOM
Breakage of lower thread
Needle breakage
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Incorrect threading
Excessive thread tension
Damaged needle
Left spreader has axial play
Damaged left spreader
Damaged threads guide
Incorrectly adjusted trimming knife
POSSIBLE SOLUTION
Correct it
Adjust it optimal
Replace
Adjust
Repair or replace
Check - replace damaged part
Adjust it optimal
Weak needle
Needle contact the clamp foot
Use properly needle
Adjust the play between the needle and clamps
Needle contact the looper or spreader a) Adjust the play between the needle and loopers b) Adjust timming of sewing
Needle support too far
Sewing stop not adjusted
Bent for 0,3 mm max.
Check adjutment
Incorrectly adjusted needle bar height Adjust correctly
Incorrectly adjusted trimming knife Adjust optimal
SERVICE
SECTION
C - 3
4. APPEARANCE DEFECT ON SEWING BUTTONHOLE
SYMPTOM
Buttonhole quality fluctuating
Not even parallel sides
POSSIBLE CAUSE POSSIBLE SOLUTION
The functional an aesthetic of a buttonhole can be influenced by the following factors:
Density of stitches
Number of stitches in eye
See appropriate adjustment
Size of material spreading
Sewing distance from buttonhole
Upper and lower thread tension
Used threads
Clamp plates wrong position
Knife outside the centre
Not even spreading
Not even clamp pressure
Bent needle
Loose cam brakes
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust
Replace
Adjust
SERVICE
SECTION
D - 14
D - 13
D - 4
2-6
Revised: 10/2013
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S-101.M
TROUBLESHOOTING
SYMPTOM
Cutting of stitching fails
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Bent needle
Low thread tension
Incorrect needle axis
Incorrect clamping or unsymmetric clamp pressure
Knife outside the buttonhole centre
POSSIBLE SOLUTION
Replace
Tighten tension
Adjust a) Check pressure b) Increase pressure
Adjust position
Eye is deformated Incorrect sewing mechanism rotation adjustment - start or angle
Incorrectly adjusted pin on lever of eye shape
Incorrect spreading
Throat plate is too low or hits to clamp plates
Knife outside the buttonhole centre when cutting before stitching
Adjust
Adjust
Adjust, reduce spreading to 0,2 mm
Lift up to clamp plates position, for 3 mm lower as maximum
Adjust the knife surface
Stitches are not regular
Loose brakes
Feeding clutch worn out
Adjust
Replace single direction clutch
SERVICE
SECTION
D - 11
D - 13
D - 13
D - 4
Revised: 10/2013
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Phone: +420 582 309 146; Fax: +420 582 360 606
2-7
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Table of contents
- 28 1. General information
- 28 2. Safety labels and devices
- 28 3. Terminology of machine parts
- 28 4. Terminology of buttonhole parts
- 28 5. Technical condition
- 28 6. Coloured markings
- 28 7. Safety instructions for operators and servicemen
- 28 8. Special equipment
- 28 1. Contents of consigment
- 28 2. Sewing head installation onto the table
- 28 3. Thread stand installation
- 28 4. Connecting machine with distribution of electricity
- 28 5. Belt tension assembly and adjustment
- 28 1. Buttonhole sewing process
- 28 2. Needle exchange
- 28 3. Threading the machine
- 28 4. Principles of sewing
- 28 5. Machine description and its functions
- 28 6. Changing seaming width
- 28 7. Stitch density adjustment / changing the buttonhole shape - with - withot eye
- 28 8. Stitching lenght and flybar adjustment
- 28 9. Changing the position of stitch row - gaps for cut
- 28 10.Setting the spread of the clamp feet
- 28 1. Table adjustment
- 28 2. Stopping mechanism
- 28 3. Stopping stroke adjustment
- 28 4. Barke adjustment
- 28 5. Turning mechanism alignment
- 28 6. Buttonhole shape adjustment
- 28 7. Needle bar height
- 28 8. Loopers adjustment
- 28 9. Spreaders adjustment
- 28 10. Upper thread trimming
- 28 11. Upper thread tension
- 28 12. Sewing switch lewer
- 28 13. Material cutting mechanism adjustment
- 28 14. Adjustment of clamping mechanism
- 28 15. Cut before and cut after adjustment
- 28 1. Machine cleaning and maintenance
- 28 2. Summary of maintenance
- 28 3. Machine lubrication
- 28 4. Disposal provisions