Craftsman 113.198611 Operators Operator`s manual

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SEARS
Operators
Manual
MODEL NO.
113.198411
10" DELUXE ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW WITH
44" CABINET AND
2 DOORS
\
MODEL
113.198611
or
113.198611
10" DELUXE ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW WITH
44" CABINET AND
6 DRAWERS
Serial
Number
Model and serial numbers
may be found at the rear of
the base,
You should record both
model and serial number in
a safe place for future use.
MODEL
CRRFTSMRN
10-INCH DELUXE ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW
CAUTION:
• Assembly
• Operating
• Repair parts
READ ALL
INSTRUCTIONS
CAREFULLY
Sold
Part No. SP5105
by SEARS,
113.198411
ROEBUCK
AND CO., Chicago,
IL. 60684
U.S.A.
Printed in U.S.A.
FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY
ON CRAFTSMAN
If within one year from the date of purchase, this Craftsman
workmanship, Sears will repair it, free of charge.
WARRANTY
SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT
RADIAL SAW
Radial Saw fails due to a defect in material
IS AVAILABLE
BY SIMPLY
CONTACTING
THROUGHOUT
THE UNITED STATES.
THE
NEAREST
SEARS
or
SERVICE
This warranty applies only while this product is used in the United States.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary from slate to state.
SEARS, ROEBUCK
AND CO., DEPT. 698/731A
Sears Tower, Chicago,
IL 60684
_a
i
i
Table of Contents
SectionTitle
Page Numbers
Safety Information
Putting
Your Saw Together
Location
and Function
Alignment
Digital
............................................................................................
..........................................................................
of Controls
...........................................................
of the Blade ...............................................................................
Display ..............................................................................................
Electrical
Connections
Crosscutting
................................................................................
3-6
7-30
31-34
35-49
50-55
56-57
...................................................................................................
58-64
Ripping ...........................................................................................................
65-73
Cutting
74-77
Accessories
Recommended
......................................................................................
Accessories
..............................................................................
Glossary ...............................................................................................................
Helpful
Hints ................................................................................................
Maintaining
Changing
Trouble
Your Saw .................................................................................
Motor
Voltage ..................................................................................
Shooting ..........................................................................................
Parts Lists ....................................................................................................
78
.79
80-81
82-88
89
90-95
96-114
Safety Information
The operator's
manual contains safety informarion, instructions and signs for your protection against serious injuries, including:
Loss of fingers,
hand,
with the saw blade.
arm
or leg from
contact
Eye injuries, including being blinded from
being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the saw blade.
Impact injuries, including broken bones and
internal organ damage, from being hit by a
thrown workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces
of the saw blade.
Major Hazards
1. Workpiece
Kickback
Kickback is an uncontrolled
grabbing and
throwing of the workpiece during ripping. If
kickback occurs, the workpiece
can hit
you hard enough to cause broken bones, internal organ injury or death. To reduce or
prevent kickback, read and follow the safety
information
in the Ripping section of the
manual.
Kickback.
Shock, electrocution,
or burn injuries from
contact with wires, motor or other saw parts.
Safety Symbol
Internal injury can
result.
and Signal Words
Use anti-kickback
pawls/spreader.
The safety information
in this manual is highlighted by the following safety alert symbol.
Fig. 2 Kickback
2. Kickback
Safely Sign
Followed
by Blade
Contact
Fig. 1 Safety Alert Symbol
The following signal words
cate the level of risk.
are used to indi-
DANGER:
Means that if the safety information is not followed, someone will be
seriously injured or killed.
WARNING:
Means that if the safety information is not followed someone could be
seriously
injured
Kickback followed by blade contact can happen when the saw blade is pinched or bound
by the workpiece
during ripping. Kickback
can happen if you reach around the blade to
the end with the anti-kickback
pawls, (outfeed end), and try to hold-down
or pull the
workpiece
through to complete the cut. Your
fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the
blade if the workpiece
kicks back.
or killed.
CAUTION:
Means that if the safety information is not followed someone may be injured.
All of the safety information and cutting
steps are critical to the safe operation
of the
radial arm saw.
Kickback,
Blade
Contact.
Fingers,
hand, arm
can be cut off.
Follow
for
Fig. 3 Blade Contact Safely Sign
instructions
Ripping
3. Wrong
Way
Feed
Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece
into the end of the saw with the anti-kickback
pawls. The workpiece can be grabbed by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off.
can be blinded.
Wear safety
goggles.
Fig. 6 Safety Goggles Safety Sign
Wrong Way Feed.
Fingers,ban.d, arm
can De cut on.
Feed into infeed
end of saw.
_lb DANGER:
Follow the 8 steps listed
below to reduce or eliminate the risk of
being injured when using the radial arm
saw. Failure to do so can result in a life
threatening
injury or death.
Fig. 4 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign
If a
with
like
can
feed
not
workpiece is fed into the end of the saw
the anti-kickback
pawls, it can take off
a missile. Anyone hit by the workpiece
be killed. Feed the workpiece
into the inend of the saw blade, the end that does
have the anti-kickback
pawls.
Wrong
Way Feed.
Workpiece
impact
can kill others.
Feed into infeed
end of saw.
1. Lower the anti-kickback
spreader when crosscutting
2. Set blade guard
when crosscutting.
pawls and
and ripping.
in horizontal
3. Lower blade guard
ping.
position
nose only when rip-
4. Keep hands as far away from the blade
as possible when cutting.
5. Return the saw to its rearmost
after each crosscut.
position
Fig. 5 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign
6. Wait until the blade has stopped turning before reaching for the workpiece
or
anything else on the table.
4. Thrown
Pieces
Workpiece
Chips
and
Blade
The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade violently. You
can be blinded. Wear safety goggles labeled
"ANSI Z87.1" on the package.
7. Read and follow the safety information
and safety instructions
in the operator's
manual and in the safety labels on the
radial arm saw.
8. Know location and function of all controis before using saw. See the Location
and Function of Controls section.
Personal
Saw
Safety
1. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1"
on the package. Do not wear regular glasses,
they are not safety glasses.
2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve
shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie
long hair. Do not wear loose, baggy clothes,
gleves, neckties, rings, watches or any other
:jewelry.
3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety goggles, if cutting operation is dusty.
Work
Area
and balance.
Don't
over-
pawls in
2. Check for broken or damaged parts before
using saw. A damaged guard or other saw
part should be checked for alignment,
binding, breakage and correct mounting to make
sure they are working properly. Repair or
replace damaged guards or other saw parts.
4. Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece
when practical. It's safer than using your
hands and frees them to operate the saw.
5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or accessories to do jobs they are not designed to do.
Safety
1. Keep children,
work area.
1. Keep guards and anti-kickback
place and in working order.
3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance,
making adjustments, and changing blades and
accessories.
4. Wear hearing protectors, ear plugs or
muffs, if you use the saw daily.
5. Keep good footing
reach.
Safety
pets and
visitors
out of the
2. Make the work area child proof. Remove
the yellow key from the red switch and place
it out of reach and sight. Lock work area.
3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust,
or other slippeu
materials.
4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered
well lighted.
wax
and
5. Use the saw in a dr), area. Do not use in
wet or damp area. Do not use outside.
6. Clear the table of all ebjects (adjusting
wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except
the workpiece to be cut, fixtures or clamps
before turning the saw on.
7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work
on the table while the blade is turning.
8. Store items away from the saw. Do not
climb on the saw to reach items. Do not
stand on the table; the saw can tip over.
6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and
the red switch is in the off position before
plugging in the power cord.
7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic
materials. Do not cut metal materials.
8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or
table if it slides, tips or walks during use.
9. Feed the workpiece against the direction
of rotation of the blade when ripping.
10. Turn the saw off before leaving work
area. Do not leave the saw until the blade
has stopped.
11. Lock the rip and miter locks before
moving the saw from one location to another.
12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if
the blade jams. Do not try to free a jammed
workpiece with the saw on.
13. Turn the saw off if it vibrates excessively
or makes an unfamiliar noise. Correct any
problems before restarting saw.
14.Rip workpieces that are longer than the
diameter of the blade being used.Do not rip
a workpiece that is shorter than the diameter
of the blade being used.
15.Cut only one workpiece at a time. Do
not cut stackedworkpieces or lay them edge
to edge for cutting.
Workpiece
Support
Safety Labels on the Radial Arm Saw
The following labels are on your radial arm
saw. Locate, read and follow the safety instructions and information contained in these
labels.
1. Wrong way feed label located
feed end of the blade guard.
Safety
I DANGER I
1. Use additional supports for workpieces
which extend beyond the saw table. Large
workpieces
can shift, twist, rise from table or
fall after they are cut.
2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece,
workpiece chips or pieces of the blade. Use
table extensions or other supports. Do not
use helpers.
TO AVOID
INJURY DO NOT
FEED MATERIAL
INTO CUTTING
TOOL FROM
THIS END
Fig. 7 Wrong Way Feed Labe/
3. Helpers can cause the workpiece
to kickback. Do not use other people to support or
assist in feeding or pulling the workpiece.
Use table extensions.
See Recommended
Accessories section of the manual.
2. Safety instruction
label located on the
front of the saw near the handwheel.
[ DANGER
I
FOR YOUR OWN
Fig. 8 Safety Instruction Label
Blade Safety
marked
2. Do not use blades
diameter.
for 3450 rpm or higher.
larger
than 10 inches
in
3. Ripping
safety label located
undlrltlnd
before
OW._,eCS n_l_ ugl
and clean.
3, Klmp
hands
5. UI_
"PUSH
s'ncK"
7_ NeVK
"FRIErH_A_,
rm any
"
for narrow
work.
ng m.aehlne.
ANS_ Z87.r.
sharp
on the motor.
I DANGER J WHEN RIPPING
1. R4HId =nd
3. Keep blade
SAFETY:
t. Read and understand
owner's manual
before operating machine.
2. Wear safety goggles complying with
ANSI Z87,1.
3. Keep hands out of path of saw blade.
4. Know how to avoid "KICKBACKS:'
5. Use "PUSH STICK" for narrow work,
6, Never reach around the saw blade.
7. Never perform any operation
"FREEHAND:'
8. Return carriage to the full rear position
after each cross-cut type operation.
9. Shut off power and allow saw blade to
stop before adjusting or servicing.
4. When table extensions
over 24 inches wide
are added to either side of the saw, make
sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or
support the outer end of the extension from
the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.
1. Use blades
on the out-
out of path
of imw binde.
8. Shut
l, Know how to avoid "KICK BACKS;'
off power
operatlo_
ar)d allow
4. Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapidly; the blade can loosen.
cut_
t,o,_ _
DANGER
THIS END ONLY
AT OUTFEED
pull han_l_ into and under _
5. Do not overtighten the blade; the blade
collar can be warped.
saw binde
stop before IKIJustir_j or _rvlclng.
t_
KEEP HANDS AWAY!
--
KIBEP HANDS AWAY! J
Motor Connected For 120 V,12 A, 60 HZ, 3450 RP M.
For 240 V, 6 A. Connect,
See
Own er's
Manu_l.
Fig. 9 Ripping Safety Label
_17
Part816845
MOdel C48HX-273
to
Putting
Your Saw Together
Your radial arm saw is easy to put together,
however it will take time. Ask a friend to
help, and follow these assembly instructions.
It is important
for your safety, and for the
quality of your cuts, that the saw be put
together with care.
This manual was written for two different
models of the radial arm saw: model
113.198611 has drawers for the cabinet, and
model 113.198411 has doors.
The following assembly
lowed for both models:
Unpacking
Information
Attaching
Mounting
Mounting
Attaching
Mounting
Mounting
sections
should
be fol-
/ Set up
Handwheel
Motor
Saw
Trim Ledge and Trim Caps
Table Locks
the Front Table
All other sections are labelled with the correct model number. Follow ONLY instructions that are meant for your model saw.
Both models work in the same way once they
are put together.
of each of the smaller boxes together and
separate from the others. This will help you
identify and locate the parts you need during
assembly.
The following
113.198611:
A.
B.
C.
D.
E
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
tC
L
parts are included
with model
Basic Saw Assembly
...............
Operator's
Manual ................
Cabinet Box ......................
Drawer Box ......................
Caster/Foot
Box ..................
Loose Parts Bags .................
Trim Caps .......................
Trim Ledge
......................
Rear Table .......................
Spacer ...........................
Fence
...........................
Front Table ......................
"This is the total number of loose parts bags.
Two of these are packed inside the
Caster/Foot Box, and four are packed inside
a larger loose parts bag.
A
A
WARNING:
Plugging the saw in
during assembly can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm
being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during assembly. The saw should only be
plugged in when it is to be used.
Unpacking/Set
Both
up
Models
C
,-..,
1. Some parts of your radial arm saw are
packaged in small boxes according to function. As you unpack, try to keep the contents
1
1
1
1
1
*8
2
1
1
Fig, 10 - Parts for Model
113.198611
1
1
1
The following
113.198411:
parts
are included
with model
Basic Saw Assembly
...............
Operator's
Manual ................
Cabinet Box ......................
A°
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
Loose Parts Bags .................
Trim Caps .......................
Trim Ledge
......................
Rear Table .......................
1
1
1
Medium Screwdriver
*7
2
1
1
Spacer ...........................
Fence
...........................
Front Table ......................
7/16" Wrench
1/2" Wrench
9/16"
Wrench
1
1
1
Pliers
3/4" Socket
9/16" Socket
7/16" Socket
*Note: This is the total number of loose parts
bags. One of these is packed inside the
Cabinet Box, and four are packed inside a
larger loose parts bag.
Framing Square
Pencil
Socket
Extension
A
Socket Wrench
H
#2 Phillips Screwdriver
1/8" Hex "L" Wrench
3/16" Hex "L" Wrench
J
G
Fig. 12 -Tools Required
4. Open the loose parts bags, and sort the
contents into piles on the floor or table. This
will make it easier for you to find the part(s)
you need during assembly.
The following loose parts are included
model 113.198611:
A.
Fig. 11 - Parts for Model 113.198411
2. Identify the large parts of your saw before
beginning each section. Your task will be
easier if you are familiar with these parts.
3. Identify the tools required for assembly.
Make sure that you have all of the tools you
will need. (Figure 12)
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
M.
N.
with
Drawer Fasteners
................
Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20xl/2 .......
Hex Nuts 1/4-20 .................
Lockwashers
1/4 .................
Phillips Head Screws 1/4xl/2 .......
Rods ............................
Levers ...........................
Washers .........................
Springs ..........................
Smooth Pins ......................
Grooved Pins .....................
Retaining Plates ..................
Actuator Boxes ...................
Phillips Itead Screws 10-32x3/8 .....
48
82
82
82
8
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
4
O,
P.
O.
R.
S.
T.
U.
V.
Slotted Screws 1/4-20x7/16
.........
Truss Head Bolts I/4-20x7/16 ........
Hex Nuts 1/4-20 .................
Lockwashers
1/4 .................
Spacers ..........................
Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20xl
.........
Leveling Feet .....................
Hex Nuts 3/8-16 ..................
4
20
18
18
2
2
2
2
The following loose parts are included with
model 113.198411:
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
Leveling Feet .....................
Hex Nuts 3/8-16 ..................
Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20xl/2 .......
Lockwashers 1/4 .................
Hex Nuts 1/4-20 .................
Phillips Head Screws 1/4xl/2 .......
G.
Plastic Covers for J-Slots ...........
2
Pan Head Screws 6 ................
Pan Head Screws 6-32x3/8 .........
Plastite Screws 10 .................
4
4
8
Magnetic Catches .................
Hinges ...........................
2
4
H°
I.
J.
K.
L.
C
4
8
66
66
66
8
M
G
C
N
U
°I
i
B
F
Fig. 14 - Loose Parts, Model 113.198411
Fig. 13 - Loose
Parts, Model
113.198611
9
The following loose parts are included with
both models:
A.
B.
Ci
D.
E.
G°
H.
Handwheel
.......................
Arbor Wrenches
..................
1
2
Yoke Plug .......................
Yellow On/Off Key ...............
Battery 6V, alkaline, size J .........
Motor Support Cap ...............
Pan Head Screw 10-32xl/2
.........
Lockwasher
10 ....................
1
!
1
!
1
1
Battery
1
Cover
....................
Locknuts 1/4-20 ...................
Washers 17/64x5/8x1/32
............
Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 .........
Lockwashers
1/4 ..................
Hex Nuts 1/4-20 ..................
2
4
4
4
2
O.
Mounting Screws 1/4-20xl-3/4
......
Washers 17/64x5/8x1/32
............
Rubber Grommets
................
5
5
5
R.
S.
T.
U.
V.
W.
U-Clips 1/4-20 ....................
Tee Nuts .........................
Leveling Screws 1/4-20x7/8 .........
Pan Head Screws 1/4 x 1-1/4 ........
Washers 17/64x3/4xl!16
............
White Buttons ....................
5
3
3
4
4
2
Right Table Rail ..................
Left Table Rail ...................
Lock Handles with Rods ..........
1
1
2
Jo
K.
L.
M.
N.
©°
I}i; R
._
P.
X.
Y.
Z.
z %
Fig. 15 - Loose Parts, Both Models
Information
Both
O,
©v
Models
1. If you are missing any part while putting
your saw together, do not continue assembly.
Contact your Sears Service Center or Retail
Store and get the missing part before continuing assembly or trying to use the saw.
Complete
parts lists are located at the end of
this manual. Use these lists to identify the
number of any missing part.
2. Sometimes
small parts get lost in packaging materials. Do not throw away any packaging until your saw is put together. If you are
missing a part, check the packaging before
contacting Sears.
3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be
fastened together using truss head bolts, lockwashers, and hex nuts of the sizes shown.
(Figure 16) When different sizes are needed,
the instructions
will include a sketch to help
you locate the correct size.
II, o=
10
1. Turn the shelf upside down on the floor.
The wide edge should point down, and the
three narrow edges should point up.
(Figure 18)
Fig. 16 - Truss Head Bolt, Lockwasher, Hex Nut
Rear Shelf
T
Stiffener
4. As you assemble your radial arm saw,
some of the holes in the parts will line up
and others will not. This happens because
some parts are used in other equipment
or
for other purposes. Follow the instructions
carefully. The figures will show which holes
should line up in each step.
_
'_
,
/-___
I Under Support
Front Shelf Stiffener
Shelf
\
Model 113.198611
Beginning
the Cabinet
The following parts are used in the cabinet
sembly for model 113.198611:
asAngled End Of
Lower
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
Right Side Panel ..................
Left Side Panel ...................
Shelf ............................
1
1
1
Under Support
...................
Skirts ............................
Front Shelf Stiffener
..............
Corner Brackets
..................
1
2
1
4
Lower Support
...................
Rear Supports
....................
Upper Support
...................
Front Support
....................
Rear Shelf Stiffener
...............
1
3
1
1
1
*
Lower
Support
tt /
Support
Fig. 18
2. Place the front shelf stiffener inside and
against the front edge of the shelf so that all
six holes line up. (Figure 18)
3. Place the under support on the shelf, so that
the two holes on one end line up with the
center holes on the other two parts.
(Figure 18)
J
I
4. Place the lower support under the shelf. It
should rest directly below the under support,
with the angled end sticking out. Line up the
four holes in these three pieces. (Figure 18)
/
I
\
E
\
H
Note: The angled end of the lower support is
a useful way to tell the front of the cabinet
from the back. The angled end is at the front
of the cabinet.
5. Place the rear shelf stiffener on the shelf so
that the two ends fit beween the edges of the
shelf, and the two center holes line up with
the holes at the end of the under support.
(Figure 18)
Fig. 17 - Cabinet
Ass embly - 113.198611
11
6. Put truss head bolts through the eight
holes indicated. Put a lockwasherand hex nut
on eachbolt tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench
or socket.
7. Put a comer bracket in each corner of the
shelf
(Figure
19)
Long End Of Shelf
C
Fig. 20 - Parts for Caster / Foot Assembfies
Long End Of Shelf
_r Bracket
1. Put
comer
down,
holes
Fig. 19
the casters" (wheels) on the shelf and
brackets. Since the shelf is upside
the wheeL_ will point up. Line up four
in each corner. (Figure 21)
8. PUt two truss head bolts through the shelf
and each comer bracket to hold the brackets
in place. Only put bolts through holes in the
long edges of the shelf, not the narrow ends,
as shown. (Figure 19)
9. PUt a lockwasher
and hand-tighten.
Attaching
Casters
and hex nut on each bolt
Corner Bracket_
/ Building
Foot
Assemblies
The following parts are used in the caster and
foot assemblies for model 113.198611:
Shelf
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
G°
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
Casters
Actuator
..........................
Boxes
...................
Levers
Rods
...........................
Washers
2
Plates
..................
Pins .....................
Pins
......................
.....................
Screws 10-32x3/8
2. Put bolts through the four holes in each
corner. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut on each
bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or
socket.
2
.........................
Feet
Head
Fig. 21
2
2
2
Springs
..........................
Hex Nuts 3/8-16
..................
Leveling
Phillips
Caster (Wheel)
2
............................
Retaining
Grooved
Smooth
4
2
2
2
.....
2
4
3. Separate all of the parts for the foot assemblies into two groups. There are two sets
12
6. Put a groovedpin
rod.
of identical parts. These will be put together
into left and right foot assemblies which are
mirror images of each other. (Figure 22)
through
the hole in the
7. Put a washer and spring in place on the bottom of the rod, and then slide the rod all the
way down. (Figure 24)
Rod
Square
Opening
Grooved
Fig. 22 - Left and Right Foot Assemblies
Pin
"Washer And
Spring
4. Place an actuator box in front of you with
the C-shaped slot facing you and the closed
surface of the box to the left. This will become the left foot assembly. (Figure 23)
Actuator
Box
Fig. 24 - Building Left Foot Assembly
8. Slide a lever through the C-shaped
slot in
the actuator box, through the square hole in
the rod, and through the square opening in
the back of the actuator box. Make sure that
the lever bends
toward
the left. (Figure
25)
C-Shaped Slot
Actuator
Box
Lever - Bends
Toward Left
Fig. 23
C-Shale
5. Slide a rod halfway down into the actuator
box. Make sure that the threaded end of the
rod is down, and that the smaller square opening in the rod is facing you.
Smooth Pin
_'_
Actuator
Box
Fig. 25 - Building Left Foot Assembly
13
15. Screw the leveling foot into the rod until
the hex nut reaches the bottom of the rod.
9. Apply a few drops ofoil (SAE No. 10W-30
automotive
engine oil) to the lever where it
passes through the square hole in the rod.
(Figure
29)
10. Put a smooth pin through the hole in back
of the lever. (Figure 25)
11. Pull the lever forward
pin is in the groove
so that the smooth
on the actuator
box.
12. Place a retaining plate over the smooth
with the smaller two holes on top.
13. Place two Phillips
two holes and tighten
screwdriver.
(Figures
pin
head screws in the top
using a Phillips
26 & 27)
Fig. 29 - Left Foot Assembly
Retaining PlateSmall Holes On Top
16. Place the second
box in front of
you with the C-shaped slot facing you and the
closed surface of the box to the right. This
will become the right foot assembly.
J
Smooth
actuator
17. Repeat steps 5-15 to put together the
right foot assembly. The lever should bend
toward the right in the right foot assembly
(see step 8).
Pin In Groove
Attaching
Foot Assemblies
1. Find the right and left side panels. Look
carefully to find the "R" and "L" stamped in
the metal near the center of the rear edges
(opposite the J-shaped slots). These stamps
are the easiest way to tell the right panel from
the left. (Figure 30)
Fig. 26
Fig. 27 - Phillips Head Screw
14. Put a hex nut on one of the leveling feet
and hand-tighten.
(Figure 28)
Fig. 28 - Hex Nut for Leveling Foot
Fig. 30
14
2. Lock the lever on the right foot assembly
the down position.
in
2. Grease the twelve center slides on top and
bottom using the grease packets included with
your saw.
3. Attach this foot assembly to the right side
panel by sticking the lever through the Jshaped slot in the side panel, and screwing in
two slotted screws.
(Figures
3. Slide each center slide into an outer bracket.
There are two notches on each center slide
that stick out on opposite sides. Make sure
that you insert the notch sticking out toward
the outer bracket first. This notch should stop
the center slide from sliding off the outer
bracket. (Figure 33)
31 & 32)
Right Foot Assembly
4. Hold a rear support with the long tabs
down, short tabs up, and the solid surface
facing you.
"_
J-Shaped
Slot
5. Attach three slide brackets to the left side
of this rear support with three truss head
bolts. Make sure that you attach the larger
hole in the slide bracket to the rear support.
Put a lockwasher
and hex nut on each bolt
Right Side Panel
Leveling
Lever- Locked Down
Foot
and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench
et. (Figure 34)
or sock-
Fig31.
i[_
_-----Short
tl
---Rear Support-
Solid
H S°r'a e
Fig. 32 - Slotted Screws
er Hole
4. Repeat steps 2-3 with the left foot assembly,
left side panel and left lever.
Finishing
Tabs
acke,
the Cabinet
1. Find the twelve outer brackets
and twelve
center slides that will be put together
the slide brackets. (Figure 33)
to form
Long
Tabs--------,
_]
Fig. 34
Center Slide
/
\
Stop Tab
Stop Tab
Outer Bracket
/
Stop Tab
6. Attach this rear support to the right side
panel with two truss head bolts. Make sure
that the long tabs are on the bottom and the
short tabs are on top. Make sure that the
solid surface is facing front. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut on each bolt and tighten using a
7/16 inch wrench or socket. (Figure 35)
/
Rear Stop
Fig. 33
15
Rear
11. Put bolts through the four holes along the
bottom edge of the Hght side panel. Put a
lockwasher
and hex nut on each bolt and
tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.
(Figure 36)
Short
Note: It is sometimes
difficult to get bolts
through these four holes. You may need to
use a Phillips screwdriver
to help shift the
parts into place.
Right Side Panel
12. Repeat steps 10 - 11 with the left side
panel and the left side of the shelf.
Long Tabs
Inside
Edge
Of Side Panel
Front
13. Turn the cabinet
Fig. 35
so that it is on the
wheels. Attach the skirts to the top of the side
panels, with one on the front of the cabinet
and the other on the back. (Figure 37)
7. Repeat steps 4 - 6 with another rear support and the left side panel. Attach the slide
brackets to the right side of this rear support
Rear
8. Attach
to a
with
and
7/16
the front end of each slide bracket
hole on the inside edge of the sidepanels
six truss head bolts. Put a lockwasher
hex nut on each bolt and tighten with a
inch wrench or socket. (Figure 35)
Side Panel
9. Lay the shelf on the rear edge with the bottom side toward you. The angled end of the
lower support should point up.
10. Place the fight sidepanel
on the right side
of the shelf. The slide brackets should be on
the inside of the cabinet. (Figure 36)
Skirt
Shelf
Left Side Panel
Angled End Of
Support
Front
Fig. 37
14. Use eight truss head bolts to hold the
skirts in place. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut
on each bolt and hand-tighten.
(Figure 37)
Bottom
Side Of Shelf
15. Put a truss head bolt through the hole at
the back, right corner of the shelf. This hole
goes through the shelf and right side panel.
(Figure 38)
Right Side Panel
Fig. 36
16
Rear
Fig. 40 - Truss Head Bolt
Right Side
Panel
22. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt
and tighten using a 7/16 wrench or socket.
23. Repeat steps 20 - 22 with the left foot assembly.
Shelf
24. Turn the cabinet back over onto the
wheels.
Front
25. Move the cabinet
Fig. 38
steps
and hex nut on the bolt
_1_ WARNING:
forward
15 - 16 on the left side of
Fingers,
the levers on the foot assemblies.
19. Turn the cabinet upside down so that the
leveling feet and wheels are pointing up.
20. Put a spacer between
right foot assembly.
unexpectedly
blade
contact.
using
your
Workpiece
if cabinet
feet are
or saw
rocks.
or arm can be cut off from
Adjust
saw so arm
leveling
slopes
feet before
to the rear.
If the leveling feet do not lift the front two
wheels off the floor, or
If the cabinet
_-----_._
you if the leveling
adjusted.
hand
can roll
26. If the leveling feet lift the front two wheels
slightly off the floor and the cabinet does not
rock, go to step 28, or
the shelf and the
21. Put a truss head bolt through the foot assembly, spacer, and shelf to hold the spacer in
place. (Figures 39 & 40)
1/4-20xl
Saw blade
toward
not correctly
can move
18. Unlock
where
you will use your saw and push down on foot
levers to lock leveling feet in place.
16. Put a lockwasher
and hand-tighten.
17. Repeat
the shelf.
to the location
rocks, go to step 27.
Spacer
27. Loosen the the hex nut on each leveling
foot and rotate until the front wheels are
slightly off the floor or until the cabinet does
not rock. Then tighten the hex nuts using a
9/16 inch wrench.
Shelf
28. Put the last rear support in front of you
with the long tabs down, short tabs up and
solid surface facing you. Attach two slide
brackets to each side of this rear support using
four truss head bolts. Attach these slide brackets to the holes shown in the figure. Make
Fig. 39
17
sure that you attach the larger hole in each
31. Put the last two slide brackets in place on
each side of the front and rear supports. Make
sure that the larger holes in the slide brackets
are in line with the rear support. (Figure 42)
slide bracket to the rear support. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and tighten
using a 7/16 wrench or socket. (Figure 41)
Slide Bracket
Short
32. Attach these sfide brackets using four truss
head bolts. These bolts will go through the
slide bracket, rear or front support, and the
upper support. Put a lockwasher and hex nut
on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket.
Front
Support Solid Surface
er Hole
;
\Li,l
33. Tilt this whole assembly and slide it into
place on the cabinet. Make sure that the front
support extends between the front s/drt and
the angled end of the lower support, and that
the rear support is inside the cabinet.
(Figure 43)
S
L!ler
Hole
Rear Support
- Solid
Long
SurfaceTabs
Left Side Panel
Fig. 41
Upper Support
I
\
29. Attach the front support to the four slide
brackets using four truss head bolts. Make
sure that the solid surface of the front support
is facing front. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut
on each bolt and tighten with a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket. (Figure 41)
Rear Skirt
Front Skirt
/
/
30. Put the upper support in place between
the rear and front supports. Make sure that
the upper support is inside the surfaces of the
other two parts. (Figure 42)
Front
Support
"Rear Support
Larger Ho_e
Angled End Of Lower Support
Last Two Slide Brackets
I
Fig. 43
Upper
SmallerHole
Support
34. Attach the upper and front supports to the
front skirt using two truss head bolts, lockwashers, and hex nuts. Make sure the heads
of the bolts point down as shown. (Figure 43)
35. Attach the upper support to the rear skirt
using two truss head bolts, lockavashers and
hex nuts. Make sure the heads of the bolts
point down as shown. (Figure 43)
Support
Rear Support
36. Attach the front and rear supports to the
lower support using four truss head bolts, lockwashers, and hex nuts. (Figure 43)
Fig. 42
18
37. Tighten all screws, except those on the
front and rear skirts, using a 7/16 inch wrench
or socket.
Putting
Drawers
Drawer Front
Drawer
Together
The following parts are used to assemble
drawers in model 113.198611:
the
Tab
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
10 inch Drawers
..................
6 inch Drawers
...................
3 inch Drawers
...................
10 inch Drawer Fronts .............
6 inch Drawer Fronts ..............
3 inch Drawer Fronts ..............
Center Slide Brackets
............
Stand Slide Brackets
.............
Grease Packets
...................
2
2
2
2
2
2
12
12
2
J.
_Drawer
48
A.
Fastener
....................
Fig. 45
3. Push a plastic drawer fastener into each of
the holes to hold the drawers together.
(Figure 45)
4. Put the drawers aside. Do not put the
drawers into the cabinet until after you mount
the saw.
Note: The center slide brackets and stand
slide brackets have already been put together
in the Finishing the Cabinet section.
Model
Building
113.198411
the Cabinet
1. The following parts are used in the cabinet
assembly for model 113.198411:
D,E,F
I
A°
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
K.
L.
M
Fig. 44 - Parts for Drawer Assembly
1. Find the six metal drawers and plastic
drawer fronts.
2. Slide the drawer fronts onto the drawers.
Make sure that the tabs on the plastic drawer
fronts slide over the metal drawers to help
hold them in place. (Figure 45)
19
Right Side Panel
..................
Left Side Panel
...................
1
1
Shelf
............................
1
Under
Skirts
Support
...................
............................
1
2
Front
Shelf
Corner
Lower
Spacers
Upper
Front
Doors
Rear
Stiffener
Brackets
Support
..............
..................
...................
..........................
Support
...................
Stiffener
1
2
Support
....................
...........................
Shelf
1
4
...............
1
1
2
1
4. Place the lower support under the shelf. It
should rest directly below the under support,
with the angled end sticking out. Line up the
four holes in these three pieces. (Figure 47)
Note: The angled end of the lower support is
a useful way to tell the front of the cabinet
from the back. The angled end is at the front
of the cabinet.
I
G
G
5. Place the rear shelf stiffener on the shelf so
that the two ends fit beween the edges of the
shelf, and the two center holes line up with
the holes at the end of the under support.
(Figure 47)
F
6. Put truss head bolts through the eight
holes indicated. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut
on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket..
Fig. 46 - Cabinet Assembly - 113.198411
1. Turn the shelf upside down on the floor.
The wide edge should point down, and the
three narrow edges should point up.
(Figure 47)
7. PUt a comer bracket
shelf. (Figure 48)
in each corner
of the
Long End Of Shelf
o
Long
End Of Shelf
Corner Bracket
Angled End Of
Lower Support
Fig. 48
8
Lower Support
8. Put two truss head bolts through the shelf
and each comer bracket to hold the brackets
in place. Only put bolts through holes in the
long edges of the shelf, not the narrow ends,
as shown. (Figure 48)
Fig. 47
2. Place the front shelf stiffener inside and
against the front edge of the shelf so that all
six holes line up. (Figure 47)
9. Put a lockwasher
3. Place the under support on the shelf so that
the two holes on one end line up with the
center holes on the other two parts.
(Figure 47)
and tighten
socket.
2O
and hex nut on each bolt
using a 7/16 inch wrench
or
10. Find the right and left side panels. Look
carefully to find the "R" and
the metal near the center of
These stamps are the easiest
right side panel from the left.
13. Put two truss head bolts through right side
panel and spacer, one on each side.
"L" stamped in
the wide edge.
way to tell the
(Figure 49)
14. Put a lockwasher
bolt and tighten
socket.
and hex nut on each
using a 7/16 inch wrench
or
15. Put aplastic cover over the J-shaped slot
in the side panel (Figure 50)
16. Attach two hinges to the right side panel
above the spacer, using four truss head bolts,
lockwashers,
and hex nuts. Tighten with a
7/16 inch wrench. (Figure 51)
Fig. 49
11. Turn the right side panel
shaped slot is at the bottom
so that the Jand facing you.
12. Put a spacer inside the right side panel as
shown. The side of the spacer with two round
holes should be opposite the J-shaped slot in
the sidepanel,
and the side with one larger
hole should be on the bottom. (Figure 50)
.----- Right Side
Panel
Hinge
Right
Side Panel
Spacer
-Shaped
Spacer
/
Slot
Fig. 51
Two Round Holes
17. Repeat
11-16 with the left sidepanel.
18. Lay the shelf on the rear edge with the
bottom side toward you. The angled end of
the lower support should point up.
,4
One Larger
steps
19. Place the right side panel on the right side
of the shelf. The spacer should be on the inside of the cabinet. (Figure 52)
Plastic Cover
Ffg. 50
21
J
23. Use eight truss head bolts, lockwashers,
and hex nuts to hold the skirts in place. Handtighten. (Figure 53)
Angled End Of
Lower Support
24. Put a truss head bolt through the hole at
the back, right corner of the shelf. This hole
goes through the shelf and the right side
panel. (Figure 54)
Right
Bottom
Side Panel
Rear
Side Of Shelf
Right Side Panel
Fig. 52
20. Put bolts through the four holes along the
bottom edge of the right side panel. Put a
lockwasher
and hex nut on each bolt and
tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench
(Figure 52)
Shelf
or socket.
Note: It is sometimes
difficult to get bolts
through these four holes. You may need to
use a Phillips screwdriver
to help shift the
parts into place.
Front
Fig. 54
25. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut on the bolt
21. Repeat steps 19-20 with the left side panel
and the left side of the shelf
and tighten
et.
22. Turn the cabinet right side up. Attach the
skirts to the top of the side panels, with one
on the front of the cabinet and the other on
the back. (Figure 53)
26. Repeat steps 24-25 on the left side of the
shelf
Skirt
,_
using a 7/16 inch wrench
or sock-
27. Put a truss head bolt through the back of
the right spacer and front edge of the shelf.
(Figure 55)
Rear
Right Side Panel
1
i
i
l
l
l
L
Shelf
I
I
I
I
Spacer
©
/
Skirt
Left Side Panel
Shelf
Side Panel
Fig. 55
Front
Fig. 53
22
1
28. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut on the bolt
and tighten
et.
using a 7/16 inch wrench
29. Repeat
steps 27-28 with the left spacer.
30. Move the cabinet
to the location
37. Adjust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch
wrench until the leveling foot is at the desired
height.
or sock-
38. Tighten
where
the top nut by hand.
you will use your saw.
39. Repeat steps 35-38 for the other
leveling feet if necessary.
31. Put a hex nut on each of the leveling feet.
(Figure 56)
40. Tighten all four bottom
inch wrench.
32. Put the leveling feet through the holes in
the bottom of the side panels, at the four
corners of the shelf.
o-.
33. Put another hex nut on each of the level
ingfeet and hand-tighten until they are
agairkst the side panels.
WARNING:
Saw blade
nuts using a 9/16
41. Slide the upper support into the front support to form an inverted L-shaped unit. Four
holes in each part should line up: two holes
at the top of the "L", and one hole on each
side. (Figure 57)
Fig. 56 - Hex Nut for Leveling Foot
a'k
three
,
Upper Support
can roll fornt Support
ward toward you if the leveling feet are
not correctly
adjusted.
Workpiece
or
saw can move unexpectedly
if cabinet
rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off from blade contact. Adjust leveling
feet before using your saw.
- Solid Surface
Fig. 57
34. If the leveling feet raise the front of the
saw slightly higher than the rear, and if the
cabinet does not rock, go to step 40, or
42. Put two truss head bolts through the holes
on the sides of the "L". Put a lockwasher
and
hex nut on each bolt and hand-tighten.
If the leveling feet do not raise the front of
the saw slightly higher than the rear, go to
step 35, or
If the cabinet
35. Loosen
43. Put the L-shaped assembly into place in
the cabinet. The upper support should extend
between the front and rear skirts, and the
front support should extend between the front
skirt and the angled end of the lower support.
(Figure 58)
rocks, go to step 35.
the bottom
hex nut on the desired
leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.
36. Loosen
the top nut by hand.
23
Rear Skirt
Front Skirt
1. Lay the two doors side by side.
2. Put a magnetic catch on the inside
each door. (Figure 60)
edge of
Doors
\
Suppo_
/
g
Angled
End Of Lower Support
Fig. 58
44. Put two truss head bolts through
the rear
skirt and the upper support.
Make sure the
heads
of the bolts
washer
using
and
hex
a 7/16 inch
point
nut
down.
on each
wrench
Magnetic
Put a lock-
bolt
and
Fig. 60
tighten
or socket.
3. Fasten using four pan head screws. Tighten
with a Phillips screwdriver. (Figures 60 & 61)
45. Put two truss head bolts through the front
support, upper support, and front skirt. Make
sure the heads of the bolts point down. Put a
lockwasher
and hex nut on each bolt and
tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.
Fig. 61 - Pan Head Screw
46. Tilt the cabinet back and put two truss
head bolts through the front support and the
angled end of the lower support. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and hand-
4. Attach a rnagnetic stop plate to the two
small holes on each side of the front support
using four pan head screws. Tighten with a
Phillips screwdriver. (Figures 62 & 63)
tighten.
Attaching
Catches
Doors
Magnetic
/
Catch
O
Magnetic
Stop Plate
Front Support
o
/
Magnetic
Stop Plate
Pan Head Screw
oor
Fig. 59 - Parts for Door Assembly
Fig. 62
24
Mounting the Motor
Both Models
_lh WARNING:
Fig. 63 - Pan Head Screw
the saw in
during assembly can result in electrical
shock or your fingers,
hand, or arm
being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during assembly. The saw should only be
plugged in when it is to be used.
5. Attach the doors to the hinges on the side
panels using eight plastite screws. Tighten
with a Phillips screwdriver.
(Figure 64)
1. Loosen the guard clamp screw and remove
the guard from the motor.
Fig. 64 - Plastite Screw
Attaching
Plugging
2. Use the arbor wrenches to remove the
blade from the saw. The arbor shaft has lefthanded threads, so you will have to turn the
nut clockwise to loosen.
Handwheel
Both Models
1. Place the handwheel on the front of the
saw. The front of the saw has a D-shaft that
fits into a D-slot in the handwheeI.
3. Lock the rip lock.
2. Attach the handwheel using a screw and external lockwasher.
(Figures 65 & 66)
4. Raise the radial arm about 2 inches
remove the styrofoam packing blocks.
and
5. Clean
off the
the small pieces
of styrofoam
saw.
6. Place the motor on the center channel of
the saw and remove the three table boards
and fence.
7. Remove
the lock nut and flat washer
the motorpivot
support.
(Figure
67)
\
Bevel Encoder
Motor Pivot
Support
Fig. 65
Motor
Fig. 66 - Screw and External Lockwasher
25
from
8. Slide the beve! encoder to the top center
position so it will fit into the notch on the
motor support bracket. (Figure 67)
13. Repeat steps 10-11 until the bevel lock
will not touch the left side of the yoke, and
the gap is not more than 1/16 inch.
9. Slide the motor onto the motor pivot support. Make sure that the motor is firmly in
place.
14. Lock
the
bevel
lock.
15. Snap the yoke plug into place. The yoke
plug is in the loose parts bag.
10. Put the flat washer and locknut back in
place and tighten using a 3/4 inch socket
wrench. Move the bevel lock back and forth
as you tighten the locknut. Do not overtighten.
Mounting the Saw
Both Models
1. Hold the saw by the front edge and the
back of the column support, and lift it onto
the cabinet. Make sure that eight holes in the
bottom of the saw line up with eight holes in
the top of the cabinet.
11. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it
will go. (Figure 68)
2. Fasten the saw to the cabinet with eight
truss head bolts. Put a lockwasher
and hex
nut on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket. (Figure 69)
BevelLock
Truss Head Bolt
Cabinet
,g-
-e-
41_
\
Lock
Fig. 68
Hex Nut
12. If there is a 1/16 inch gap or less between
the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke
(and they are not touching),
go to step 14, or
Fig. 69
If the bevel lock touches the left side of the
yoke, unlock the bevel lock and tighten the
locknut on the motorpivot
support. Then go
to step 10 and repeat, or
3. Check all the nuts holding the cabinet
together and tighten them using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket.
If there is more than a 1/16 inch gap between
the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke, unlock the bevel lock and loosen the locknut on
the motorpivot
and repeat.
,u,
support.
Then
go to step 10
26
4. Reach through the top of the saw and use
two screws to hold the trim cap in place.
Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver.
Attaching Trim Ledge and
Trim Caps
Both Models
1. Hold
5. Repeat
the trim ledge against
the front of the
steps 3-4 with the left trim cap.
Mounting Table Locks
saw.
Both
2. Reach through the top of the saw and use
four screws to fasten the trim ledge in place.
Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver.
(Figures 70 & 71)
Models
The following parts are used in mounting the
table locks:
Ao
Lock Handles
with Rods
...........
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
Right Table Rail ..................
Left Table Rail ...................
Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 .........
Lockwashers
1/4 ..................
Pan Head Screws 1/4x1-1/4 .........
Hex Nuts 1/4-20 ..................
Washer 17/16-9/16xl/32
............
Locknuts 1/4-20 ...................
Slide Button ......................
2
1
1
4
4
4
2
4
2
2
D
1
Trim Ledge
Fig. 70
Fig. 71- Phillips Head Screws
Fig. 73 - Parts for Table Locks
3. Hold the right trim cap in place on the
front right side of the cabinet. (Figure 72)
1. Put a lockwasher
(Figure 74)
on a hex head bolt.
Fig. 74 - Lockwasher,
Hex Nut, and Hex Head Bolt
2. Lift a lock handle and put the bolt through
the hole in the mounting plate as shown.
(Figure 75)
Trim
Cap
Fig. 72
27
Eccentric
Eccentric
Circle Tab
Circle
Slide Button
Rail
Slide
Square Hole
\
Front Table - Upside Down
Lock Handle With
Mounting Underneath
Fig. 76
Fig. 75
8. Push a slide button through the small hole
in front of the eccentric circle on each table
rail.
3. Slide the rod through one of the square
holes in the front of the saw. Then put the
hex head bolt through the round hole above
it. (Figure 75)
4. Put another
lockwasher
the bolt and tighten
or socket.
5. Repeat
saw.
steps
9. Fasten the table rails to the front table
using four pan head screws and flat washers.
Tighten with a Phillips screwdriver.
(Figures 76 & 77)
and a hex nut on
with a 7/16 inch wrench
1 - 4 on the other
side of the
Fig. 77 - Pan Head Screws and Washers
6. Turn the front table (44" x 17") upside
down. The top of the front table has five large
holes and seven smaller ones. This side
should be toward the floor.
Mounting the Front Table
Both Models
The following
front table:
7. Place the two table rails on the front table
as shown. The tabs should point toward each
other when both rails are in place, and the eccentric circles should be toward the floor.
(Figure
76)
28
parts are used to mount
the
A.
Tee Nuts .........................
3
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
U-Clips 1/4-20 ....................
Mounting
Screws 1/4-20xi-3/4
......
Rubber Grommets
................
Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 .........
Washers 17/64-5/8xl/32
............
5
5
5
2
5
D
A
U-Clips
/U-Clip
On
_Center Channe
B
1
E
U-Clips
Fig. 80
3. Slide one U-clip over the hole in the left
side of the center channel as shown.
(Figure 80)
Fig. 78 - Parts for Mounting
Table
4. Put a washer on each of the mounting
screws. (Figure 81)
1. Place a tee nut over each of the leveling
holes and hammer them into place.
(Figure 79)
Fig. 81 - Mounting Screw and Washer
Mounting
5. Stand
Holes
the front table on one edge.
6. Put a mounting screw through each of the
mounting holes. Then put a rubber grommet
on the bottom of each mounting screw.
(Figure 82)
Leveling Holes
Leveling Hole
Rubber
_,.._,.
Table Rail
_-%
Table
GrommetIt,I
Mounting
Holes
_/
Rail -----"lll_
_
/
Front Table - Upside Down
_'_ __nti
£g Holes/
Fig. 79 - Leveling and Mounting Holes
t
I
2. Slide four U-clips over the holes in the saw
as shown. (Figure 80)
_Moon,ing .o,e_J _
Holes o \
'_Front
Fiq. 82
29
Edge
7. Place the front table on the saw so that the
mounting screws' line up with the U-clips. The
front table should extend about one inch
beyond the trim caps.
Putting
Drawers
in Place
Model 113.198611
1. Slide each drawer in place on the slide
brackets and push them all the way in.
8. Start the mounting screws into the U-clips
using a Phillips screwdriver.
Tighten the
screws until the heads are just touching the
table. Make sure that the table is not squeezing the rubber grommets.
2. Then pull each drawer out as far it will go.
The drawers should not come all the way out.
3. If any of the drawers do come all the way
out, use a screwdriver
to bend out the stop
tabs on the slide brackets. (Figure 84)
9. Start the leveling screws into the leveling
holes using a 1/8 inch Hex-L wrench. Tighten
the screws until they are flush with the table.
Center Slide
10. Attach the left rod to the left table rail
with a hex head bolt and flat washer. Then
Outer Bracket
1
put another washer and a locknut on the bolt,
and tighten using two 1/2 inch wrenches or
sockets. (Figure 83)
1
I "_"
/
Stop Tab
Stop Tab
Stop Tab
Left Table Rail
Fig. 84 - Stop Tabs
4. Try the drawer again.
5. Repeat
until none of the drawers
Removing
Drawers
Model 113.198611
\
If you need to remove a drawer
reason, do the following:
Fig. 83
11. Repeat
fall out.
1. Use a screwdriver
to push in one of the
stop tabs on the right slide bracket. Pull the
drawer out slightly as you do this.
step 10 with the right table rail.
12. Ifyou have model
section, or
113.198611,
for any
go to next
2. Repeat with the left slide bracket
the drawer all the way out.
If you have model 113.198411, go to Location
and Function
of Controls section.
30
and pull
Rear Stop
Location
and Function
of Controls
113.198611
113.198411
WARNING:
On/Off Switch
The saw can start ac-
cidentally or be used by children and
others when the yellow key is left in the
red switch. Always remove the yellow
key when the saw is off, and keep it out
of the reach and sight of children.
The on/off switch turns the power to the saw
on and off.
To turn the saw on, put the yellow key into
the red switch and then pull the switch to the
right. To turn the saw off, push the red switch
to the left. Remove the yellow key from the
red switch whenever
the saw is turned off, and
keep it out of the reach and sight of children.
(Figure 86)
'_
WARNING:
The saw will start im-
mediately
when the power comes back
on after a blackout if the red switch is
left on. Always turn the switch off and
remove the yellow key when the power
goes off for any reason.
Miter
Lock
The miter lock is used to hold the radial
at various angles to the fence.
arm
To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the
right. (Figure 87)
Fig. 86 - On/Off Switch
....
31
Bevel Lock
The bevel lock is used to hold the blade
at
various angles to the table. To unlock the
bevel lock, move the lock to the right. Always
hold the motor when you unlock the bevel
lock. (Figure 89)
CAUTION:
The motor is heavy
and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured by the arbor shaft or blade.
Hold the motor when you unlock the
bevel lock.
Fig. 87 - Miter Lock - Unlocked
To lock the miter lock, push
left. (Figure 88)
the lock to the
_A_!C..FrS...
Fig. 89 - Bevel Lock - Unlocked
To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the
left. (Figure 90)
Fig. 88 - Miter Lock - Locked
There are three pre-set miter angles at 45 °,
0°, and -45 °. You will feel the radial arm
snap into position at these miter angles. To
unlock the arm when it is in one of these positions, pull the miter lock all the way to the
right and move the arm as you hold the lock
in this position.
Fig. 90 - Bevel Lock
32
- Locked
swivel lock when the motor
There are five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,
-45 °, 0°, 45 °, and 90 °. To unlock the bevel
lock when the blade is at one of these angles,
move the bevel lock all the way to the right
and turn the motor while holding the lock in
this position.
positions, stand facing the saw handle, pull
the swivel lock all the way toward you, and
turn the motor as you hold the lock in this
position.
Rip Lock
Swivel Lock
The swivel lock is used to hold the blade
is in one of these
The rip lock is used to hold the motor and
blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.
It is used during ripping to hold the blade a
desired distance from the fence while the
in
the crosscut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and
to position the blade for molding or edging.
To unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the
san' handle and pull the swivel rock toward
you. (Figure 91)
workpiece is fed through. It is used before
and after each crosscut to keep the blade
from moving forward on its own.
To unlock the rip lock, pull the handle toward
the front of the arm. (Figure 93)
Fig. 91 - Swivel Lock - Unlocked
To lock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw
handle and push the swivel lock away from
you. (Figure 92)
Fig. 93 - Rip Lock - Unlocked
To lock the rip lock, push the handle
the rear of the arm. (Figure 94)
Fig. 92 - Swivel Lock - Locked
The crosscut, in-rip, and out-rip posJtJons of
the blade are pre-set positions. To unlock the
Fig. 94 - Rip Lock - Locked
33
toward
Handwheel
The handwheel
radial arm.
controls
the height
of the
To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel
clockwise. To lower the radial arm, turn the
handwheel counterclockwise.
(Figure 95)
Fig. 95 - Handwheel
One complete turn of the handwheel
the arm 1/16 inch.
moves
The handle can be folded in by pushing the
red button while pushing the handle in.
All Controls
Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks
before making a cut on your radial arm saw.
When ripping, the rip lock must also be locked. When crosscutting,
the rip lock should be
locked before and after each cut, when the
saw is in the rearmost
position.
34
Alignment
of the Blade
1. Loosen the four screws in the front of the
column support. (Figure 96)
The blade of your radial arm saw must be
aligned properly for two reasons: to make
cuts accurate, and to prevent binding of the
blade and workpiece
which can cause jams or
thrown workpieces.
These adjustments
must be done in order,
before using your saw for the first time. If
they are not done in order the saw will not
cut accurately.
If you miss an adjustment,
you
must go back to the adjustment
you missed
and repeat all steps from that point on.
Four Socket
Head Screws
These adjustments
are like fine tuning a
piece of equipment.
Often a series of steps
must be repeated
more than once in order to
get the adjustment
just right.
41&WARNING:
Plugging the saw in
during alignment can result in electrical
shock or your fingers,
hand, or arm
being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during alignment. The saw should only be plugged
in when it is to be used.
Fig. 96
2. Raise and lower the radial arm by turning
the handwheeI a few turns in each direction.
It should take about the same amount of effort to lower the arm as to raise it.
3. If movement
Make sure that the blade and
removed from the arbor shaft
ning to align your saw. Do not
blade or blade guard until you
to do so.
Adjusting
seems smooth
and the
column does not rock back and forth,
the next section, or
blade guard are
before begin°
install the
are instructed
go to
If movement
seems difficult, loosen the four
bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 97) and go back to step 2, or
Elevation
If column rocks back and forth, tighten the
four bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 97) and go back to step 2.
The goal of this adjustment
is to make upward and downward movement
of the radial
arm smooth and firm. If the column that supports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to
move the arm up and down and to get accurate depth of cut. If the column is loose the
blade may "walk" on the workpiece
and stall
the motor, or cause a heel in bevel and compound cuts.
35
1. Loosen
the
three
leveling
sure that the five mounting
but not overtightened.
screws
screws
and be
are snug
2. Raise the radial arm until the bottom of
the motor is about 2-1/2 inches above the
front table.
3. Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor.
Hold onto the motor as you do this.
_1_ CAUTION:
The motor is heavy and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the arbor shaft hits you.
Hold the motor when you unlock the
bevel lock.
Fig. 97
Leveling Front Table.
The
goal
of this adjustment
front
work
table
arm.
In order
flat
and parallel
points
will use
the
to the
radial
to do this, you will choose
four
points on the table.
are level, the entire
You
is to make
two
When
these
table should
methods
4. Turn the motor until the arbor shaft is
pointing straight down toward the table.
(Figure 99)
four points
be level.
to make
the
four
level:
.Tighten
the mounting screws which pull
down on the table making a given point
lower. (Figure 98)
,Tighten
the leveling screws which push
up on the table making a given point
higher. (Figure 98)
Fig. 99
eli 5 Mounting
°
Screws
I_ __
•
°
_1!
e
Leveling
5. Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor in
this position.
Screws
6. Draw two lines on the front table, over the
table rails. (Figure 99)
/
O
i
7. Unlock the rip lock and pull the motor
to the end of the arm.
Fig. 98
36
out
8. Unlock the miter lock and swing the arm to
the right until the arbor shaft is over the right
line.
9. Mark the point on the line under
ter of the arbor shaft.
18. Move the arbor shaft over another point.
Do not change the elevation of the arm.
19. Tighten the mounting screws and/or leveling screws until the handle of the arbor
wrench just fits between this point and the
arbor shaft. The wrench should slide back and
forth with slight contact. Use a 1/8 inch
Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling screws.
the cen-
10. Move the arm and motor until the arbor
shaft is over the right line at the rear of the
front table.
20. Repeat
11. Mark the point on the line under the center of the arbor shaft.
12. Repeat
13. Label
18-19 for the last two points.
21. Lay the edge of the rear table across the
front edge of the front table. There should be
no gaps between the two.
steps 7-11 on the left side.
the points
steps
A, B, C, and D.
22. If you see a gap larger than 1/32 inch,
tighten the center mounting screw and/or the
leveling screws until the gap is gone. Use a 1/8
inch Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling
screws. (Figure 101)
14. Move the arbor shaft over these points
again, and measure the distance between the
table and the bottom of the arbor shaft at
each. Do not change the elevation of the arm
as you move from point to point.
15. Determine
which point has the largest distance between the table and the arborshaft.
This is the lowest point.
16. Move the arbor shaft over the lowest
point.
17. Place the handle end of the arbor wrench
over this point and lower the arm until the
arbor shaft is just touching the wrench. The
wrench should slide back and forth with slight
contact. (Figure 100)
Fig. 101
23. Repeat
front table.
steps 21-22 at the rear edge of the
24. Unlock
the bevel lock and return
the
motor to its original position with the arbor
shaft parallel to the table. (Figure 102)
Fig. 100
_7
3. Pull up on the fence.
4. If the fence is held firmly, no change
needed. Go to the next section, or
If the fence is loose and can be pulled
position, go to step 5.
5. Unlock
is
out of
the table locks.
6. Loosen the nuts under the circular clamps
using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.
(Figure 103)
Fig. 102
25. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock, swivel lock
and miter lock.
Adjusting
3/16
Table Locks
The table locks are designed to hold the rear
table, spacer, and fence in place while cutting. There are circular clamps at the back of
the table which are controlled
by the table
locks. When locked, these clamps put pressure on the rear table to hold it and the other
pieces in place. If the circular clamps are too
close to the rear table, the locks cannot be
locked, ff they are too far from the table, the
locks will not hold the pieces firmly in place.
WARNING:
Inch
Workpiece,
Fig. 103
7. Turn each clamp until there is a 3/16 inch
space between the clamp and the rear table.
Make sure that the rear table, fence and
spacer are firmly against the front table.
(Figure 103)
rear table,
fence, and/or spacer can shift during use
if table clamps are left loose. Your hands
may slip, and could be cut off by blade
contact. Table locks must be adjusted to
hold rear table, fence and spacer firmly in
place.
8. Tighten each clamp with a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket.
9. Go back to step 2 and repeat until rear
table, spacer and fence are held firmly in
place.
1. Put the fence in the front position, and the
spacer and rear table behind it.
2. Lock the table locks. If you cannot
table locks, go directly to step 6.
lock the
38
Squaring
Crosscut
_1_ CAUTION:
Overtightening
the
arbor nuts may cause the blade collars
to warp and the blade to wobble while
cutting. Use the arbor wrenches to
tighten the arbor nuts but do not overtighten.
Travel
The blade must travel perpendicular
to the
fence along the radial arm in order for
crosscuts to be accurate. If the radial arm is
not perpendicular
to the fence, there will be
a slight miter angle in all crosscuts.
_lb WARNING:
Plugging
4. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
until the blade is over the front table.
in the saw
during alignment can result in your
fingers, hands, or arm being cut off from
blade contact. Do not plug in the saw at
any time during alignment. The saw
should only be plugged in when it is to be
used.
5. Lock the rip lock, miter lock and bevel lock.
6. Unlock the table loc!_ and remove the rear
table, spacer and fence.
7. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just
above the front table.
1. Place the radial arm in the 0° miter position and lock the miter lock.
8. Lay a framing square on the front table
with the long edge along the back of the table
and the short edge alongside the blade.
(Figure 105)
2. Place the blade on the arbor shaft with a
blade collar on each side. Make sure that the
directional
arrow is on the outside of the
blade, and the teeth are pointing down at the
front side of the blade. (Figure 104)
9. Move the framing square toward the blade
until a tooth of the blade just touches the
edge of the square. (Figure 105)
10. Mark this tooth with a pencil.
11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
back and forth along the radial arm. Do not
move the framing square.
//
12. If the marked tooth just touches the
square at all points, no change is needed.
to step 22, or
If the marked tooth moves away from the
square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go to
step 13. (Figure 105)
Fig. 104
3. Place the arbor nut on the arbor shaft and
use the arbor wrenches to tighten. The arbor
shaft has left-handed
threads, so you will
have to turn the nut counterclockwise
to
tighten.
Do not overtighten.
39
Go
If the blade
tighten
tried to "walk"
the top left screw
the right.
meet
Then
tighten
the column.
on the square,
to move
the arm to
the top right screw
to
Go to step 15.
15. Move the motor back and forth along the
radial arm. Repeat step 14 until the marked
tooth just touches
Then
go to step
16. Tighten
the square
at all points.
16.
the bottom
the column
support,
left several
times
screws
in the front of
switching
from right to
so that you do not force
radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten
it will be difficult to raise and lower the
the
radial
or
arm.
Fig. 105
17. Raise
13. Loosen
column
the tour screws
support
ready
done
tion.
(Figure
slightly,
in the front
if you have
so in the Adjusting
of the
ficult,
not al-
Elevation
loosen
column
sec-
and lower the radial
arm.
the four screws
support
slightly
If this is dif-
in the front of the
and try again.
Loosen
of these screws the same amount so that you do
not force the radial arm out of line.
106)
18. Repeat
radial
step
17 until movement
arm is smooth
but firm.
of the
Then go to
step 19.
19. Lay a framing
square
with the long edge along
and the short
before.
f"
edge
on the front
the back
alongside
table
of the table
the blade,
as
j
20. Move
the framing
square
toward
the
blade, and rotate the blade with your hand,
until the marked tooth of the blade just
touches
the edge
2 I. Move
radial
Fig. 106
14. Use the top two screws
arm into line:
to move
the motor
arm.
tighten
moved
away
from
the top right screw
to the left. Then
meet the column.
tighten
the square,
to move
edge
the arm
the top left screw
back and forth
Do not move
along
the
the square.
22. If the marked tooth just touches the edge
of the square at all points, go to step 23 or
the radial
If the marked
If the blade
of the square.
tooth moves
of the square
it, go back to step
to
Go to step 15, or
4O
away
fi'om the
or tries to "walk"
13 and repeat.
on top of
all
If there is a gap between the square and the
the blade after any rotation (Figure 108), go
to step 6.
23. Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence
and rear table back in place, lock the table
locks,
and
go to the
Squaring
next
section.
Blade to Table for
Crosscutting
Right
These steps are necessary so that your blade
will be perpendicular
to the table and cuts
will be accurate. If this is not done correctly,
your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.
r I
Square
t_
Table
1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position
with the blade over the front table.
Wrong
_;___
I
S q uare
Motor
2. Lock the table locks and gp lock.
3. Place the long
on the table and
blade. Make sure
the blade surface
(Figure 107)
r I
Table
edge of the framing square
the short edge against the
that the square is against
and not the set of a tooth.
Wrong
)_
Square
/
Table
Fig. 108
6. Unlock
motor.
the
bevel
lock,
but
do not
move
the
7. Loosen the four screws behind the yoke
using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench. (Figure 109)
Square
4 Socket
'Setscrews
@
Fig. 107
4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Fig. 109
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure
108) Go to the next section, or
8. Hold the square in place and move the
motor slowly until the square is flush with the
blade.
41
9. Hold the motor tightly and lock the bevel
lock. Do not let the motor move out of place.
17. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
10. Check the square to make sure that it is
still flush with the blade.
11. Tighten
the four screws behind
18. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, go to the next section, or
the yoke.
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation, go back to step 6 and
repeat.
12. Raise the radial arm until the blade is
1-1/2 inches above the table.
13. Unlock the bevel lock and move the motor
to the 45 ° bevel position. (Figure 110)
Squaring
Blade to Fence
These steps are done so that your blade will
be perpendicular
to the fence. This will help
reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and
splintering
of the workpiece
and burning of
the kerf when ripping and crosscutting.
CAUTION:
The motor is heavy and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured il the blade hits you. Hold the
motor when you unlock the bevel lock.
Fig. 111 - Squaring Blade to Fence
Fig. 110
1. Put the radial arm in the 0 ° miter position
with the blade just in front of the fence.
(Figure 111)
14. Move the motor back to the 0° bevel position and lock the bevel lock.
2. Lock the rip lock.
15. Lower the radial arm until the blade is
just above the table.
3. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above
the arbor shaft. Make sure that the edge of
the square is on the blade and not on the set
of a tooth. (Figure 111)
16. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade as before. Make sure the square is
against the surface of the blade and not the
set of a tooth.
42
4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure
112) Go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation, go to step 6.
(Figure 112)
Fence
(
]
I
Square
Right
Fig. 113
8. Hold the square in place and turn the
motor until the square is flush with the blade.
!_
Fence
9. Hold the saw handle
swivel lock.
Fence
Square
tightly and lock the
Squa
10. Check the square to make sure it is still
flush with the blade.
Wrong
Wron 9
11. Tighten the four screws under
using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench.
Fig. 1!2
6. Unlock
the swivel
lock.
7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke
using a 118 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if
necessary. (Figure 113)
_,WARNING:
The hex-L wrench
the yoke
12. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above
the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the
edge of the square is on the blade and not on
the set of a tooth.
may
break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety goggles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.
13. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
14. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
and the
Squaring
1. Unlock
4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Blade to Table for
Ripping
the swivel lock and turn the motor
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation (Figure 116) go to step 11, or
to the out-rip position with the motor between the blade and fence. (Figure 114)
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation (Figure 116), go to
step 6.
Right
t
[M_otor
f R'-..
Table
Wrong
I Table
_
Fence
Wrong
I' [_F_enc e i I
n.,..
Table
Fig. 114 - Out-rip Position
2. Lock
swivel
lock
and
Fig. 116
rip lock.
6. Loosen the hex nut on the rear carriage
bearing. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the
bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut.
(Figure 117)
3. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade alongside the arbor shaft. Make sure
the square is against the surface of the blade
and not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 115)
F_
±lilll
I
t
I
iii1,1_÷_,,
/
Fig. 117
Fig. 115
44
Fence
7. Hold the square in place and use the 9/16
inch wrench to turn the bolt until the square
is flush with the blade.
hand. Try to keep
turning.
the carriage bearing from
8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten the hex
nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.
15. If you can keep either of the carriage bearings from turning while the motor moves
along the radial arm, go to step 16, or
9. Turn the blade several times and check to
see if the square is still flush with the blade.
If you cannot keep the carriage bearings from
turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.
10. If the square is flush with the blade
each rotation, go to step 11, or
16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each carriage beating, and the track they ride on, with
a cloth to remove sawdust and other debris.
Oil if necessary.
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
after
and the
17. Loosen the hex nut on the carriage bearing that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to
hold the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen
the nut.
11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
as far back as it will go.
12. Pinch the front carriage bearing with your
fingers as tightly as possible while you pull
the motor forward with the other hand. Try to
keep the carriage bearing from turning.
(Figure 118)
18. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench
until the looseness is gone.
19. Hold the bolt firmly with the 9/16 inch
wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2
inch wrench. Do not overtighten.
20. Adjust the other carriage bearing by the
same amount so that the blade will still be
square with the table.
21. Repeat steps 11-15 to make sure that the
carriage bearings are not still loose.
22. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade just above the arbor shaft, as before.
Make sure the square is against the surface of
the blade and not on the set of a tooth.
23. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Fig. 118
13. Move the motor
go.
as far forward
as it will
24. If the square
the next section,
14. Pinch the rear carriage bearing with your
fingers as tightly as possible while you pull
the motor toward the rear with the other
is flush with the blade, go to
or
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
45
and the
Making
Blade Parallel
Table
to
These steps are done to help prevent the
workpiece
from being thrown or damaged
when the saw is used for edging.
Fig. 120
6. Lower the radial arm until the blade just
rests on the edge of the framing square.
Make sure that the square is on the blade
and not on the set of a tooth.
7. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Fig. 119
1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position.
8. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation (Figure 121) go to step 18, or
2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2
inches above the front table.
3. Unlock
so that
(Figure
the bevel
the blade
lock,
is parallel
and
turn
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation (Figure 121) go to
step 9.
the motor
to the table.
119)
CAUTION:
Right
The motor is heavy and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the
motor when you unlock the bevel lock.
Square,
H
_-_,
Fence
1]
L
Motor
j 1J--
Table
Wrong
4. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock and swivel lock.
Square
5. Place the comer of the framing square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air. Make sure that the
long edge is perpendicular
to the fence.
(Figure 120)
\H
_)_
Table
Fig. 12!
46
Wrong
Square
Motor\_
(_f,
Table
f Motor
9. Unlock
1(}. Loosen
the bevel lock.
16. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
the two screws on the back of the
motor support using a 1/8 inch hex-I, wrench
and pliers if necessary. (Figure 122)
_lb WARNING:
The hex-L wrench
17. If the square is flush with the blade
each rotation, go to step 18, or
may
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.
break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety goggles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.
after
and the
18. Snap the motor support cap into the back
of the motor support. The cap is in the loose
parts bag. (Figure 123)
I
Saw
\
Handle
/
"-----_ __...J
Motor Support
Motor Support
Cap
Fiff. 122
Fig. 123
11. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower
the bottom side of the motor support until the
square is flush with the blade.
Installing
12. Hold the motor firmly and lock the bevel
lock.
13. Check the square to make
still flush with the blade.
Guard
Spreader
/ Setting
The blade guard and the spreader
are very
important
safety features of your saw. The
guard covers a large part of the blade and
reduces the risk of amputation.
The spreader
rides in the kerf of the cut wood during ripping, and helps keep the two sides from
pinching the blade and causing a kickback.
sure that it is
14. Tighten the two screws on the back of the
motor support.
15. Place the corner of the flaming square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure
that the long edge is perpendicular
to the
a'k
A
4uLWARNINL_:
Fingers, hand, or arm
can be cut off from blade contact if the
blade guard is not used properly. Always put the blade guard on your saw
and adjust it correctly.
felTcc.
47
_lk
WARNING:
Kickback
can occur if
3. Make sure that the lower edge of the guard
is parallel to the table. (Figure 125 - above)
the spreader is not in line with the
blade. You can be injured or killed. Always adjust the spreader and make sure
that it is directly in line with the blade.
4. Tighten
5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor
to the in-rip position, with the blade between
the motor and the fence. (Figure 126)
1. Loosen the guard clamp screw until it no
longer touches the metalplate.
(Figure 124)
Guard Clamp Screw
the guard clamp screw.
Metal Plate
Fig. 124
2. Place the guard over the blade. You will
feel the guard fall into place when the ridge
on the inside of the guard slides into the slot
on the motor. (Figure 125)
Fig. 126- In-rip Position
6. Lock
the swivel lock.
7. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just
above the table.
8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
back until the blade touches the fence.
9. Lock the @ lock.
10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the
spreader in place.
Fig. 125
11. Lower the spreader and antikickback
pawls until the spreader is against the fence,
and the pawls on one side of the spreader are
on top of the fence. (Figure 127)
48
13. Loosen both nuts on the spreader
1/2 inch wrench.
using a
Guard
14. Slide the spreader with your hand until it
is against the fence directly behind the blade.
Antikickback
Pawls
15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch
wrench. Do not move the spreader as you
tighten these nuts.
Spreader
Fence
16. Check the blade and spreader again to
make sure that they are both against the
fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat.
Table
/
17. Once the blade and spreader are in line,
raise the spreader up to the guard and tighten
the wing screw to hold it in place.
Fig. 127
12. If the spreader and blade both rest against
the fence, no adjustment
is needed. (Figure
128-A) Go to step 17, or
18. Unlock
the rip lock.
19. Pull the motor
forward
away from the fence
If the spreader is in front of the fence but not
touching it (Figure 128-B), go to step 13, or
20. Unlock
If the spreader hits the top of the fence
(Figure 128-C), go to step 13.
A-
and lock the rip lock.
the swivel lock.
21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon
with the blade and arm perpendicular
to the
fence.
Right
22. Lock the swivel lock
Pawl
-Spreader
FenC_a_l e
Saw Blade
B - Wron(
C - Wrong
Pawl-._ (
Pawl
Fence _
T-able I
"'Spreader
-Spreader
Saw Blade
Fence
Table
so that the blade is
Saw Blade
Fig. 128 - A,B,C
49
Digital Display
ELEV: This button displays the height of the
blade. The "0" display is usually set with the
blade just touching the table. A positive display shows the distance the blade has been
raised above "0". A negative display shows the
distance the blade has been lowered below
_A/RS / CRI1FT$1dRN
I_0tt"
ELECTRONIC
MITER: This button displays the miter angle.
The "0" display is usually set with the arm perpendicular
to the fence. A positive display
shows the angle the arm has been moved to
the right. A negative display shows the angle
the arm has been moved to the left.
MEASUREMENT
TO
LOCK
R_MOVE
YELLOW
KEY
RIP: This button displays the distance from
the fence to the blade in the in-rip and outrip positions. The "0" display for in-rip is
usually set with the blade just touching the
fence. The "10.00" display for out-rip is usually set with the blade ten inches from the
fence.
Fig. 129 - Digital Display
Your radial arm saw has a digital display
which tells you the position of the blade and
arm at the touch of a button. This display
helps you position the blade so that your cuts
will be accurate.
The "0" reference points you set will be
stored in the memory at all times, whether
the display is turned on or off. If an error occurs you will see:
The following buttons control the digital display:
ON/OFF
: This button turns the display on
and off. The display runs on battery power,
and shuts itself off when no changes in blade
or arm position have been made for three
minutes. The system continues to track the
location of the blade and arm when the display is turned off, and the current position
may be displayed at any time.
f
EEE.E
on the display. If this happens, you will need
to reset the "0" reference
point for the function displaying the error.
If the battery is very weak or dead the display
will become faded and hard to read. If this
REF SET: This button is used to set the "0"
reference points for the digital display.
happens, you will need to replace
and reset the "0" reference
points
tions.
BEVEL : This button displays the bevel
angle. The "0" display is usually set with the
blade perpendicular
to the table. A positive
display shows the angle the bladehas
been
turned counterclockwise.
A negative display
shows the angle the blade has been turned
cloc_vise.
5O
the battery
for all func-
5. If there is still no display,
nearest Sears store, or
Installing the Battery
1. Slide the batter), into the opening behind
the digital display with the angled corner on
top. (Figure 130)
If the display
contact
your
says:
ELE
•
go to step 6.
Battery
6. Snap the battery cover into place.
7. Push the ON/OFF
play.
button
Replacing
the Battery
1. Use a screwdriver
off.
to pry the battery cover
2. Push in and slightly upward on the battery,
then pull out. The battery is held in place by a
tab that is released when you push in.
Fig. !30 - Installing the _attery
2. h_sh the battery all the way into this space
and slightly downward. It will snap into place,
and be held there by a tab.
3. If the display
to turn off the dis-
3. Replace the battery with a 6V, alkaline battery by following the Installing the Battery
section.
says:
Aligning Encoders
Miter Encoder
ELE
•
1. Push the ON/OFF
play on.
a second or two after the battery is put in
place, go to step 6, or
If the display
step 4.
does not show anything,
button
to turn the dis-
2. Put the saw in the crosscut position with
the radial arm perpendicular to the fence.
go to
3. Lock
4. Remove the battery. Put it back in and
check the display again, or
the
miter
lock.
4. Push the MITER
5. Push
Remove the batter),. Wipe off the battery contacts. Put the battery back in and check the
display again, or
the REF
SET
button.
button.
The
say:
1
Remove the battery. Replace it with a new
one. Check the display again.
51
MIT
°i
.U
display
will
6. Unlock
the
miter
lock.
7. Move the arm to the right until it snaps
into the 45 ° position.
8. Lock the miter lock.
9. The display
should
say:
!
10. Unlock
the miter lock.
(
11. Move the arm to the left until it snaps
into the -45°position.
Fig. 131 - Screws for Miter Encoder
12. Lock the miter lock.
13. The display
should
say:
_!.U
[ °. _qc,-,
14. If the display is correct
go to the next section, or
20. Slide the encoder slightly until the digital
display says:
!
at all three
!
points,
You may need to tap on the encoder
it, but do not force it or hit it hard.
If the display is not correct at one or more
these points, go to step 15.
to move
of
21. Tighten the mounting screws on the encoder.
15. Unscrew the two mounting screws on the
back of the arm and take off the rear arm
22. Repeat steps 2-13 to make sure you did
not move the encoder when tightening
the
mounting screws.
COl)er.
16. Unlock
MIT
the miter lock.
23. If the display is still not correct repeat
steps 16 - 22 until the miter encoder is in the
right position, or
17. Move the arm to the right until it snaps
into the 45 ° miter position.
18. Lock the miter lock.
19. Loosen the mounting
encoder until the encoder
right and left. (Figure
If the display is correct,
put the rear arm
cover back on the radial arm. Go to the next
section.
screws on the miter
will slide to the
131)
52
Bevel
Encoder
1. Push the ON/OFF
play on.
button
14. If the display is correct
go to the next section, or
to turn the dis-
at all three
points,
If the display is not correct at one or more
these points, go to step 15.
2. Put the saw in the crosscut position with
the radial arm perpendicular
to the fence and
the blade perpendicular
to the table.
15. Unlock
the bevel lock.
16. Move the motor
3. Lock the bevel lock.
of
to the 45 ° bevel position.
17. Lock the bevel lock.
4. Push the BEVEL
button.
5. Push the REF SETbutton.
say:
18. Loosen the two aligning screws on the
bevel encoder until the encoder will slide from
The display will
right to left. (Figure
132)
Aligning Screws
Motor Support
6. Unlock
Bevel
Encoder
Scale
the bevel lock.
7. Turn the motor
to the 45 ° bevel position.
_lb CAUTION:
can swing down
or injured if the
motor when you
The motor is heavy and
quickly. You can be cut
blade hits you. Hold the
unlock the bevel lock.
Yoke
Casting
8. Lock the bevel lock.
9. The display
should
I
10. Unlock
Fig. 132 - Screws for Bevel Encoder
say:
I
19. Slide the encoder
says:
=!.U
the bevel lock.
11. Move the motor
to the 90 ° bevel position.
You may need to tap on the encoder to move
it, but do not force it or hit it hard.
12. Lock the bevel lock.
13. The display
slightly until the display
should
20. Tighten
say:
the two aligning
screws on the en-
coder.
I q,-,,-,
I
21. Repeat steps 2 - 13 to make sure you did
not move the encoder when tightening the
two screws.
I_1,!_!
53
22. If the display is still not correct,
steps 15 - 21 until the bevel encoder
right position, or
If the display
Setting
is correct,
8. Push the ELEVbutton.
repeat
is in the
9. Push the REF SET button.
10. The display will say:
go to the next section.
Zero References
Bevel, Miter and Elevation
The "0" reference
points for miter,
elevation are usually set with the:
In-rip
bevel, and
The "0" reference point for in-rip is usually
set with the blade just touching the front of
the fence.
• Saw in the crosscut position with the
radial arm perpendicular
to the fence
(0 ° miter).
•Blade perpendicular
to the fence
front table (0 ° bevel).
Reference
1. Unlock
the swivel lock.
2. Turn the motor to the in-rip position with
the blade between the motor and the fence.
and
3. Lock the swivel lock.
,Blade in front of the fence just touching
the front table (0 inches elevation).
4. Unlock the table locks and put the fence
between the front table and the spacer.
5. Lock the table locks.
You may set the "0" reference points in this
position, or any other position you choose.
6. Unlock
1. Put the blade in the position you have
chosen to be the zero reference point.
2. Push the MITER
the rip lock.
7. Move the motor back until the blade is just
touching the front of the fence.
button.
8. Lock the rip lock.
3. Push the REF SET button.
4. The display
9. Push the RIP button.
will say:
10. If the display shows the RIP function,
to step 11, or
i " 0i
5. Push the BEVEL
If the display shows the O-RIP function, push
the RIP button again. Then go to step 11.
button.
11. Push the REF SETbutton.
6. Push the REF SET button.
12. If the display
says:
7. The display will say:
1
BEV
f"l
• _,j
go
!
[
54
.,0
I-!
.U U
!
go to the next section,
or
8. Lock the rip lock.
9. Push the RIP button.
If the display says:
!
1
t Yi I-! I-!
.,_ I I_l.l_l I_l
push the REF SET button
the next section.
10. If the display shows the O-RIP
go to step 11, or
again. Then
function,
If the display shows the RIP function, push
the RIP button again. Then go to step 11.
go to
11. Push the REF SETbutton.
Out-rip
Reference
12. If the display
The "0" reference point for out-rip is usually
set with the blade ten inches from the fence.
1. Unlock
the swivel
says:
1
lock.
2. Turn the motor to the out-rip position with
the motor between the blade and the fence.
'-"-'
I
13. Push the REF SET button
The display
3. Lock the swivel lock.
will say:
i
4. Unlock
behind
the
table
the spacer
locks
and
move
and rear table.
l "-'n°1
the fence
(Figure
o..,p ! t_l,t.I I_!
146)
5. Lock the table locks.
6. Unlock
7. Move
the ffp lock.
the
motor
in front of the fence.
ruler or tape measure
tance.
(Figure
until
the
blade
is 10 inches
Use a framing
square,
to measure
this dis-
133)
\
again.
Blade
10 -/
Fence
\
Fig. 133 - Out-Rip Reference
55
Electrical
Motor
Connections
_I_WARNING:
Specifications
power cord is worn, cut, or damaged in
any way have it replaced immediately.
The AC motor used in this saw is a capacitorstart, non-reversible
type having the following
specifications:
Rated
H.P .............................
Maximum Developed
H.P ..............
Voltage
...........................
Amperes
.............................
Hertz (cycles) ..........................
Phase ..............................
RPM ...............................
Rotation of Arbor Shaft ..........
Power
WARNING:
To avoid shock or fire, if
If your unit is for use on less than 150V it has
a plug that looks like below. (Figure134)
1.5
2.75
120/240
12/6
60
Single
3450
Clockwise
3-Prong Plug
O
Supply
Grounding
Your saw is wired at
the factory for 120V operation. Connect
to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and
use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit
breaker. Failure to connect in this way
can result in injury from shock or fire.
Prong
Properly
Grounded
Outlet
Fig. 134 - Plug for Less Than 150V
If the motor is rewired for 240V operation, connect to a circuit protected by
15-AMP, dual element time delay fuse or
circuit breaker.
This power tool is equipped with a 3-conductor cord and grounding type plug which has a
grounding prong listed by Underwriters'
Laboratories. The ground conductor has a
green jacket and is attached to the tool housing at one end and to the ground prong in the
attachment plug at the other end.
Your saw must be properly grounded. Not all
outlets are properly grounded. If you are not
sure that your outlet is properly grounded,
have it checked by a qualified electrician.
This plug requires a mating 3-conductor
grounded type outlet as shown above. If you
have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it
is recommended
that you have a qualified
electrician replace the it with a properly
grounded three prong outlet.
WARNING:
If not properly
grounded this power tool can cause
electrical shock, particularly when used
in damp locations.
41LWARNIN(3:
If an electrical shock occurs, your reaction to the shock may
bring your hands into contact with the
blade.
56
_k
Extension
AnalWARNING:
To maintain proper
tool grounding, whenever the outlet you
are planning to use for this power tool
is of the two prong type do not remove
or alter the grounding prong in any manner.
The use of any extension cord will cause
some loss of power. Use the following table
to determine the minimum wire size
(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire extension cords which have 3-prong grounding
type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which accept the tool's plug.
An adapter is available for connecting plug to
2-prong receptacles. The green grounding
lead extending from the adapter must be connected to a permanent ground such as to a
properly grounded outlet box. (Figure 135)
Grounding
3-Prong Plug o,"
,__
Ir._-,L_
_! _L
Length of
Conductor
Lug
_Make
Sure This Is
Connected
Cords
Wire sizes Required
(American
Wire Gage No.)
120V Lines
240V Lines
0 - 25 feet
No.14
No. 16
26 - 50 feet
No.12
No. 14
51 - 100 feet
No. 8
No. 12
For circuits that are farther away from electrical circuit box, the wire size must be increased proportionately in order to deliver
ample voltage to the saw motor.
To A
_ Kn°wn
2-Prong
Gr°und
Receptacle
Adapter
Fig. 135 - Adapter for 2-Prong Receptacles
_ib WARNING:
The adapter illustrated
is for use only if you already have a
properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.
57
Crosscutting
r
Crosscutting
is used to cut a workpiece
to
length. The work_iece
is held against the
fence. The saw blade is pulled through the
workpiece. Cuts are usually made across the
grain of the workpiece.
Types
of Crosscuts
The basic types of crosscuts are shown below.
Notice the hand and body position in each.
Fig. 138 Bevel Crosscut
Fig. 136 Straight Crosscut
Fig. 139 Compound Crosscut
Miter
Straight
Fig. 140 Basic Crosscuts
Fig. 137 Miter Crosscut
58
Bevel
Compound
Safety Information
Crosscutting
4. Fingers or hand can slip into the saw
blade as you make a crosscut. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the
hand holding the workpiece
at least 8 inches to the side of the workpiece,
out of
the path of the saw blade. Keep hand
holding the workpiece
in view at all
times.
for
Read and follow the safety information
before making any type of crosscut.
below
4_, WARNING
1. Set guard and anti-kickback pawls to
proper height to serve as a partial barrier.
5. The blade can come completely off
table edge beyond the 30 ° left miter
position.
Fingers, hands, arms or legs
can be cut off. Use the right miter position whenever possible to make miter
crosscuts.
2. The saw blade can throw the
workpiece
over the fence if the blade is
pushed backwards into workpiece.You
or others can be hit and injured by the
thrown workpiece.
Start a crosscut with
the blade in its rearmost position.
6. The blade continues to turn for about
12 seconds after the saw is turned
off. Wait for the blade to stop before
reaching for the workpiece.
3. If the blade is pulled through the
workpiece
beyond the middle of the
blade, it can:
7. If length stops are used on the cut-off
end of workpiece,
the cut-off end can
be thrown by the blade. The workpiece
could hit and injure you or others in the
area. Do not use a length stop on the
cut-off end of the workpiece.
Use a
length stop only on the end of the
workpiece
which is held down.
= pick up and throw the cut-off section of the workpiece which could
hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;
• lift or move the held-down
section
of the workpiece
and pull your
hand into the blade as the blade
is returned.
Pull the saw blade
through
the workpiece
to the distance shown below.
8. Holding on to or touching the cut off
end of the workpiece
while the saw
blade is still turning can cause the
workpiece to pinch the blade. The
workpiece
can be thrown and hit and injure you or others in the area. Do not
touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cutoff piece of the workpiece while the
power is on or the saw blade is turning.
9. The saw can throw the workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade
violently. You can be blinded. Wear
safety goggles.
Fig. 141 Blade
DNtance
to Complete
Crosscut
59
10. The workpiece
cannot be controlled
or held stable enough to do free hand
cutting. The workpiece
can be thrown or
slip and pull fingers and hand into the
saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut
off. Set the radial arm to the desired
cutting angle. Keep workpiece flat on
table and solidly against the fence.
Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback
Pawls and Spreader
The blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate
the risk of injury from contact with the upper
half of the blade and the leading edge of the
blade when:
11. Saw parts loosen and wear with
use. You or others can be injured. Keep
all parts tight and in working order.
• the guard
and;
is in the horizontal
• the pawls and spreader
are set to
clear the top of the fence and
workpiece
by about 1/8 inch.
12. The fence must be of at least equal
height to the workpiece
or else the
workpiece
can be lifted or thrown and hit
and injure you or others in the area. See
Cutting Accessories
section for instructions to make a fence.
The Blade
Guard:
• provides protection from contact with
the upper half of the blade;
13. The blade will try to pull itself
through the workpiece.
Be prepared to
hold the saw handle back to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.
• helps keep the workpiece
ming in the guard and;
14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or
else the blade will suddenly come
toward you when you lower it to make a
crosscut.
from jam-
• helps catch or deflect workpiece
or pieces of the blade.
The Anti-kickback
15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep
one hand on the saw handle to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.
16. Cutting more than one workpiece
at
a time can cause you to lose control of
the workpieces,
which can be thrown
and hit and injure you or others in the
area. Cut only one workpiece
at a time.
Do not stack or lay workpieces
edge to
edge.
position
Bar,
Pawls
and
chips
Spreader:
• serve as a partial barrier to provide
protection
from contact with the leading edge of the blade.
A
6O
WARNING:
To reduce the risk of
contact with the upper half of the blade
and keep the workpiece
from jamming
in the guard, set the blade guard in the
horizontal position. Fig. 145.
Crosscutting
Use the following checklist
of each new cutting period
of an accident.
Crosscut
Yellow
at the beginning
to reduce the risk
Checklist
key removed
Saw unplugged
Cutting
Checklist
You will need
Table and Fence
Kerfs
to cut a new table kerf (shal-
low cut) and fence kerr (slot left in the fence
from sawing through it with the blade), each
time a new cutting angle is used. The table
kerf lets the blade cut all the way through a
workpiece.
from red switch.
and switch off.
N6 play in the carriage bearings, motor
suppori or column. See Alignment
of the
Blacle section for instructions.
Arm slopes to the rear and table level side
to side.
Arbor
nut snug.
Blade
sharp.
Fence secure,
condition.
Fence
solid (knot free)
in correct
and in good
Fig. 142 Table and Fence Kerfs
Note: To extend the life of your table top,
you can make an additional table top. See
Helpful Hints section.
table position.
Workpiece
does not extend
of the fence.
above the top
Making
All saw parts are tight and working.
Table
and
Fence
Kerfs
for Crosscut-
ting
Saw blade in desired
behind the fence.
crosscut
position
and
To make a crosscut
fence:
Blade guard horizontal.
1. Put your fence between the front table and
spacer board. Lock the table locks.
Anti-kickback
pawls and spreader set to
clear top of fence and/or workpiece by
about 1/ 8 inch.
Swivel, rip, miter,
locked.
2. Push the saw to the rearmost
hind the fence.
bevel and table locks
Read and follow instructions
of crosscut you want to do.
kerf in your table and
3. Lock rip lock.
for the type
61
position,
be-
WARNING:
The saw blade will suddenly come toward you when lowered
into the table if the rip lock is unlocked.
Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock
the rip lock before and after each
crosscut.
8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm
in line with the saw handle as shown below.
t
;uard and Table F
i
i,n
I
Fig. 145 Crosscut Blade Guard and Body Position
Fig. 143 Locked
Position
4. Lower the radial
most touches
£L
_
ALWARNINL_:
Saw blade can suddenly come toward you when turned on.
Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.
Keep one hand on the saw handle at all
times.
for Rip Lock
arm until the blade
al-
the table top.
5. Plug the saw into a grounded
outlet. Check
Electrical Connections
section of manual if
9. Turn the saw on.
you are not sure the outlet
10. Lower the saw arm slowly until the blade
touches the table.
6. Wear safety goggles
on the package.
is grounded.
labeled
ANSI Z87.1
11. Turn the handwheel
another
1/2 turn
more. This will let you make a 1/32 to 1/16
inch kerr in the table.
A
WARNING:
The saw can throw the
workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces of
the blade violently.
You can be
blinded. Wear safety goggles.
12. Unlock
rip lock.
13. Pull the saw blade forward through the
fence and along the table as far as it will go.
14. Return the saw blade
tion behind the fence.
to its rearmost
posi-
15. Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the
saw handle.
Wear safety
goggles.
16. Wait for blade
Fig. 144 Safety Goggles Safety Sign
7. Insert
to stop turning.
17. Lock rip lock.
yellow key into the red switch.
18. Remove
62
yellow key from red switch.
Making
4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickback
pawls to clear top of fence and workpiece by
about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help
provide protection
from the leading edge of
blade.
Crosscuts
The following section contains safety information and instructions
for making crosscuts.
Anyone who uses your saw should read and
follow these steps.
_
WARNING:
The
horizontal
contact
blade
to provide
with
must
protection
the upper
and avoid
the workpiece
the blade.
Set the blade
horizontal
position.
DANGER:
guard
be
6. Put on safety
outlet.
goggles.
from
7. Place the workpiece
half of the blade
being
jammed
guard
against
the fence.
in
in the
8. Unlock
rip lock.
Fig, 145.
The anti-kickback
9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your
forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.
pawls
serve as a barrier for the leading edge
or the blade.
Set the anti-kickback
pawls to clear the top of the fence
workpiece
by about 1/8 inch.
WARNING:
5. Plug saw into grounded
and
The fence must be at
/k
_
JkWARNING:
The saw blade tries to
pull itself through the workpiece.
Be
prepared to hold saw handle back to
keep the saw blade from coming toward
you. Keep one hand on the saw handle
at all times.
least equal height or higher than the
workpiece
you are going to cut or else
the workpiece
can be thrown and injure
you or others in the area. Install a fence
of at least equal height to the workpiece.
1. Put your fence in position
lock the table locks.
B
_|
• pick up and throw the cut-off section of the workpiece which could
hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;
C A
0
I I
A as shown and
JkWARNING:
If the saw blade is pulled
through the workpiece
beyond the middle of the saw blade, it can:
0
II
0
0
II
• lift or move the held-down section
of the workpiece and draw your
hand into the blade as the blade
is returned.
Fig. 146Fence Position for Crosscut
2. Push the saw to the rearmost
hind the fence.
3. I__)wer the blade
table kerf.
position,
be-
into but not touching
the
63
Pull
the
workpiece
saw
blade
to the
through
distance
12. Support
and against
hand.
the
shown
below.
and hold the workpiece down
the fence firmly with your left
13. Pull blade through fence and workpiece
just enough to complete the cut. Fig 147.
14. Return saw to its rearmost position
continue to hold the saw handle.
and
15. Turn saw off.
16. Wait for the blade to stop turning.
17. Remove
yellow key form red switch.
Fig. 147 Distance Needed to Complete Crosscut
10. Insert yellow
key into red switch.
Repetitive
Crosscuts
11. Turn saw on.
To make repetitive
crosscuts:
l'k
AI_ WARNING:
Saw blade can be
pulled into or over fingers or
hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.
Keep hand holding the workpiece
at
least 8 inches to the left of, and out of
the path of the saw blade. Keep hand in
view at all times.
1. Use two pieces
lumber.
of 1 inch by 2 by 2 inch
2. Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each
side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.
3. Clamp pieces of lumber at the distance
necessary to complete the crosscut.
Fig. 148 Hand Placement for Crosscuts
64
Ripping
When
Ripping is used to change the width of the
workpiece by sawing along its length. The
workpiece is fed into the saw blade. The
fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually
made with the grain of the workpiece.
Saw Positions
to Use
In-Rip
or Out-Rip
The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece
and your
hands than does the out-rip saw position.
The only time you should use the out-rip saw
position is when the workpiece is 14 inches
or wider. Use the in-rip position for all
workpieces
less than 14 inches wide.
for Ripping
There are two saw blade positions for making
rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.
In in-rip position, motor is toward the front
of the table, and blade is toward the fence.
Workpiece
Positioning
for Ripping
Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece
is between the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece,
set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do
not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece
by setting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.
A
--
AL WARNING:
If the blade is set between 2
inches and 6 inches from the fence, hands
will be brought too close to the blade.
Fingers and hand can be cut off. Use a push
stick.
Fig. 149 In-Rip
Saw Position
For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece,
place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push
stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 inches. See Cutting Accessories
section on how
to make and use a push stick.
In out-rip position, motor is toward fence and
the blade is toward the front of the table.
_k
WARNING:
If the blade
is set between
1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands
will be brought too close to the blade.
Fingers/hand
can be cut off. Use an auxiliary
fence/push block.
For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece,
place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary
fence. See Cutting Accessories
section.
Pig. 150 Out-Rip Saw Position (lnteed End)
A__
JkWARNING:
Stand only at infeed end
of saw. Feed workpiece
only into infeed
end of saw as shown above.
65
Safety Information
Ripping
2. One of the most
for
Read and follow the safeb information
before making any type of rip cut.
below
workpiece
could kickback
as you reach
for, touch or try to pull the workpiece
through
the blade. You can lose your
fingers,
hand, or arm. The blade guard
does NOT provide complete
protection
at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach
for the workpiece
at outfeed end of the
saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut
off. Follow instructions for ripping.
1. Kickback can happen when the saw
blade is pinched or bound by the
workpiece.
This creates force in the opposite direction to which the workpiece
is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab
and throw the workpiece
violently back
out of the saw.
can happen
Kickback,
Blade Contact.
Fingers, hand or arm
can be cut off.
when:
Follow instructions
for ripping.
Anti-kickback pawls/spreader are not
used or not correctly adjusted.
Fig. 15t Kickback,
Spreader
Blade
and the
most dangerous
mistakes people make
is to reach for the workpiece
at the outfeed side of the saw. DON'T t The
_lb DANGER
Kickback
common
Blade Contact
Safety Sign
is not in line with the blade.
is not parallel
3. The workpiece
can also kickback
violently toward you during a rip cut.
You can be hit hard enough to cause
broken bones and/or internal injury.
Keep blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader in place and adjusted.
Apply feed pressure to the section of
the workpiece
next to the fence. Do not
apply feed pressure on the section of
the workpiece away from the fence.
Stand out of the path of the workpiece.
to the rip fence,
Edge of workpiece is not in contact with
the rip fence or not straight.
Workpiece is twisted or warped and rocks
on the table top.
Edge of workpiece
is not completely
against the rip fence, leaving gaps
between the fence and workpiece
edge.
Workpiece is released before being
pushed completely past the saw blade.
Feeding pressure
of the workpiece
is put on the section
farthest from the fence.
Fig. 152 Kickback,
66
Thrown
Workpiece
Safety Sign
2. The workpiece
can be grabbed
by the
saw blade and take off like a missile.
4. Non-thru cuts increase the chance of
kickback because the anti-kickback
pawls cannot always grab the irregular
workpiece
surface.
Use a featherboard.
See Cutting Accessories
section on how
to make and use a featherboard.
Anyone standing
in the path of the
workpiece
can be killed.
5. The workpiece
can snag or hang up
on a fence with a kerf in it. The
workpiece
can be thrown or pinch the
blade, causing kickback.
Use solid fences when making rip cuts.
of saw.
6. Wood cut with the grain can spring
the kerr closed, bind the blade, and
cause a kickback.
Adjust spreader
to
ride in the kerr and prevent the kerf
from closing on saw blade.
7. Composition
materials,
like particle
boards and plastics,
may be cut on the
saw. Because these materials
often
have a harder and more slippery
surface
than wood, the anti-kickback
pawls may
not stop a kickback.
Place finished
side
of workpiece
down, roughest
side of
workpiece
up. Make anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader
adjustments.
Stand out of
the path of workpiece.
_lb DANGER:
Wrong
Wrong way feed is
workpiece
into the
pawls, the outfeed
are two things that
feed the workpiece
of the saw blade:
way
Fig
153 Wrong
Way Feed Safety Signs
Always feed the workpiece
against the
direction
of rotation of the blade, at the
infeed end of the blade.
Feed
Infeed End of
Saw Blade
feeding the
end of the blade with
end. (Fig. 154) There
can happen if you
into the outfeed end
Outfeed End
of Saw Blade
A
DANGER
1. The workpiece
can be grabbed
by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back.
Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off.
Fig. 154 Infeed and Outfeed
67
Ends of Saw Blade
Rip Cutting
Blade Guard, Anti-kickback
Pawls and Spreader
Use the following rip cutting checklist at the
beginning of each new cutting period to
reduce the risk of an accident.
The blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
workpiece
spreader are designed to reduce or
eliminate the risk of injury from blade contact, workpiece
kickback and wrong way feed.
The Blade
Guard:
Rip Cutting Checklist
• serves as a partial barrier to help
keep hands from contacting the blade
at the infeed end of the saw blade.
Yellow
key removed
Saw unplugged
• helps keep the workpiece
from lifting
or fluttering
during ripping.
• helps catch or deflect workpiece
or pieces of the blade.
Anti-Kickback
Pawls
from switch.
and switch off.
No play in the carriage,
Arm slopes
to side.
The
Checklist
yoke or column.
to the rear and table level side
chips
Arbor
nut snug.
:
Blade sharp.
• help reduce
and holding
kickback by grabbing
the workpiece.
into
• act as a barrier to provide some
protection
from blade contact.
Fence
secure,
Fence
in correct
Saw blade
for cut.
solid (knot free),
desired
no kerfs.
rip position.
distance
from the fence
The Spreader:
Swivel, bevel, rip, miter
locks locked.
• helps keep the kerr of the workpiece
open, which helps prevent the blade
from being pinched and causing
workpiece
kickback.
Blade guard, anti-kickback
spreader adjusted.
Use push stick if cutting
6 inches off workpiece.
when correctly set, helps reduce or
eliminate the chance of wrong way
feed because it blocks the workpiece
from contacting
the saw blade.
_I_WARNING:
and spreader
The
anti-kickback
adjustments
must
and table
pawls and
between
Use push block if cutting between
and 2 inches off workpiece.
2 and
1/2
Use featherboard
if making a non-through
cut and when needed on through cuts.
pawls
be made
each time a different
thickness
workpiece
is cut to reduce or eliminate
kickback,
Read and follow instructions
of rip cut you want to make.
68
for the type
Making
Blade
a Rip Cut Table Kerf
You will need to make a
rip cut can be made. Eve
the blade a new distance
will need to make a new
2. Lock rip, swivel, miter,
locks.
1. Unplug
table kerf before a
n ' time you move
from the fence, you
kerf.
1. Put saw in desired rip position
saw arm in the 0° position.
Guard
Adjustments
saw and remove
yellow key.
2. Put saw in In-Rip position
saw arm in the 0° position.
and lock the
and lock the
bevel and table
3. Adjust saw arm with handwheel
until the
saw blade almost touches the table top.
4. Plug the saw into a grounded
outlet.
Fig. 155 In-Rip Saw Position
5. Put on safety goggles.
6. IT_sert the yellow key in the red switch.
3. Lock
locks.
7. Turn saw on.
4. Go to the in-feed
8. Lower
table.
saw blade
until blade
touches
For workpieces
bevel,
swivel
and
table
end of the saw blade.
Fig. 154.
the
5. Put the workpiece
on the table, in line with
blade and under the nose of blade guard, so
it touches the blade.
9. "[urn the handwheel
about 1 full turn
more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerf
in the table.
_IbWARNING:
rip, miter,
6. Loosen the guard clamp screw and rotate
the guard until the guard nose just clears the
workpiece.
Fig. 156.
1/4 inch
thick or less, make the rip kerr at least
1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade
from rising up on top of workpieces
and
violently throwing
them.
7. Tighten
the guard
clamp
screw.
Antikickback/Spreader
Wing
Screw
Guard Clamp
Screw
10. Turn saw off and remove
11. Unplug
saw at the end of cutting
Adjustments
_i,
yellow key.
DANGER:
session.
kback
Bar
for Ripping
Spreader
You will need to make
blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
spreader adjustments before making a rip
cut.
Direction
Direction
of Kickback
Fig. 156 Blade Guard Position for Ripping
69
Anti-kickback
ments
Making Rip Cuts
Pawls and Spreader Adjust-
!. Go to the outfeed
When
end of the saw blade.
2. Put edge of workpiece
and under the pawls.
beside
In-Rip
or Out-Rip
The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece and your
hands than does the out-rip saw position. The
only time you should use the out-rip saw position is when the workpiece
is 14 inches or
wider. Use the in-rip position for all
workpieces
less than 14 inches wide.
the blade
3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kickback pawls and spreader until the spreader
hangs next to the edge of the workpiece
and
the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest
on the workpiece.
Anti Kickback
to Use
Workpiece
Positioning
for Ripping
Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece
is between the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do
Pawt
not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by setting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.
A
WARNING:
If the blade is set between 2 inches and 6 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought too close
to the blade. Fingers and hand can be
cut off. Use a push stick.
Fig. 157Anti-kickback
4. Tighten
Pawl Position
For example, if the workpiece
is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece,
place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push
stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 inches. See Cutting Accessories
section on how
to make and use a push stick.
wing screw.
5. Go to the in_feed end of the saw blade.
6. Push the workpiece
a few inches in the
direction of the cut and then pull the
workpiece
back toward you. The pawls
should have grabbed the wood and stopped
the kickback motion by grabbing into the
workpiece.
If they did not, repeat adjustments until the pawls grab the workpiece.
If
the pawls fail to grab the workpiece,
sharpen
or replace them. If that fails to work, use a
featherboard.
Repeat steps for making antikickback pawls and spreader adjustments
above.
WARNING:
If the blade is set be-
tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought too close
to the blade. Fingers/hand
can be cut
off. Use an auxiliary fence/push
block.
For example, if the workpiece
is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary
fence. See Cutting Accessories
section.
7O
_IL WARNING:
When
making through
9. Stand out of the line of the workpiece
to
be clear of workpiece
in case of kickback.
rip cuts do not set the blade closer than
1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary
fence, your hands will be brought too
close to the blade. Your fingers and
hand can be cut off. Do not use a radial
arm saw to rip cut less than 1/2 inch
wide workpieces.
1. Set the blade to desired distance from the
fence and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.
2. I_x)ck rip, swivel, miter, bevel
locks.
3. Make
spreader
blade guard,
adjustments.
4. Remove
5. Turn
workpiece
and table
anti-kickback
pawls and
Fig. 158 Hand and Body Position for Making an InRip Cut
from table.
10. Position your body at the infeed end of
the saw blade. Start and complete the cut
from that same side.
saw on.
6. Place work_iece
keeping workpiece
under the guard nose,
edge against the fence.
7. Place one hand flat on the workpiece
next to fence.
8. Place the other hand behind
that your fingers are:
• on the back edge
• out of the blade
11. Push the workpiece,
putting pressure on
the part of the workpiece
between the blade
and the fence. If you push the part of the
workpiece
on the other side of the blade, the
blade could be pinched and the workpiece
will kickback.
and
the first so
12. Keep pushing the section of the
workpiece between the blade and the fence
until the piece has been pushed completely
past the anti-kickback
pawls.
of workpiece;
path and,
• i_ DANGER:
• as close to the fence
as possible.
The
blade guard does
NOT provide
complete protection
feed end of the saw blade. The
at out-
workpiece
could kickback as you reach
for, touch or pull the workpiece
through
the blade, pulling your hand into the
blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off. Do not pull, hold-down or touch the
workpiece
at the outfeed end of the saw.
llLWARNIN(3:
Even when all steps to
reduce kickback are taken, the
workpiece
can still kickback. You or
others in the area can be hit hard
enough to cause broken bones or internal organ injury. Stand out of the line of
the saw blade and workpiece.
71
on the arbor could cause the dado and arbor
nut to spin off. Take several passes of the
dado if cut required is greater than 13/16 of
an inch wide.
Kickback,
Blade Contact.
Fingers,hand
or arm
can be cut off.
3. To avoid excessive
never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper
1/8 inch in one pass.
Follow instructions
for ripping.
13. Turn the saw off
WARNING:
Blade continues
to turn
for about 12 seconds after power
turned off. Do not reach for cut
Molding
is
!. Instructions
for using the molding
provided with the molding head.
workpiece
until blade stops. Fingers or
hand can be cut off by the turning
blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.
14. Remove
than
4. When installing the dado on the arbor, always install the inside loose collar first to ensure good arbor nut engagement.
Make sure
the arbor nut is snug. Install the arbor nut
directly against the outside of the dado.
Fig. !59 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign
_
load on the motor
head are
2. Use of molding head or drum sander with
the saw arbor vertical requires an opening
(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor
clearance. See Cutting Accessories
section to
make a molding fence.
yellow key from red switch.
Edging
1. Edging requires the use of a dado or molding head in the horizontal
position (parallel
to table).
Bevel Ripping
To make
a bevel
rip cut:
1. Set the saw in the desired
2. Index
the arm to 0° and lock in position.
3. Bevel the blade
4. Follow
2. Use proper accessory guard when edging.
See Recommended Accessories section.
position.
to the desired
steps for making
angle.
a rip cut.
Note: For dadoing, molding and edging,
low instructions
for crosscutting.
fol-
_'k
A
_LWARNINL_:
Using the saw without the
proper accessory guard for edging is extremely dangerous.
Hands, fingers or
arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow
instructions
for edging guard.
3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with
the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See
Cutting Accessories
section to make auxiliary
fence for edging in the 0° miter position.
Dadoing
1. Instructions
for using dado blades
provided with the dado blade.
are
2. The saw arbor is designed for a dado set
up to 13/16 inches wide. Use of a wider dado
72
_lb WARNING:
If the auxiliary fence is
not used when the saw arm is in the 0°
crosscut position, the molding head cannot be located behind the fence for safe
and proper
operation.
3. Remove saw blade, dado, or other accessory from the saw arbor shaft before using
the accessory shaft. Do not use the saw with
accessories
installed on both ends of the saw
arbor shaft at the same time.
4. Make
4. Edging can also be done in the 30 ° left
miter without the use of an auxiliary fence.
Follow the instructions
below.
shaft is covered
by a
guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid
being pulled into moving parts by hair,
threads, clothing.
5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the
drill bit can break. You can be blinded or injured if hit by thrown pieces. Do not use twist
drills longer than 7 inches.
• Miter the arm to the left approximately 30 °.
• Swivel the motor until bottom of
motor is parallel to and facing the rip
fence and operating instructions label
is visible.
• Follow all steps outlined
label as shown below.
sure the unused
6. Use a spade type drill of 1 inch diameter
or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plastic because the speed is not high enough for
other types of materials.
7. Do not use other
on motor
reduced
shank drills.
8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of
checking to see that adjusting wrenches are
removed from tool before turning it on.
Know
1
this
Read
tool:
and
_w,
Understand
in Owner's
all
M_nusE
wnrnings
and
and
Wilh
i_trg_lons
on
recommended
acces-
sodes.
2
Properly
guard
_hecu_fir_
3
_1
Provide
proper
Pos_on
ing
itte
the
arm
c{amping
[abet
fence
-
___
to
W_th
£1_&
it
[
L
v
__=i
and
so
this
O_ne_'s
off
hand
not
or
left
auxiliary
1he lence
dc_s
fence
tool
_eoce;
an
power
by
tool
_
the
yoke
the
per
behind
ua_
5
cgtting
Ihe
tac_
consttuc_
I_P_
9. When using the accessory shaft in the vertical position, swivel the motor 90 ° so that the
arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.
wotkp_Ce
supporl.
4
any
Io
Man.
by
the
m_ke
strike
other
mov-
_WARNING:
hair, jewelry
can
be caught and pulled into an exposed
arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be
broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft
under the radial arm when using the aco
cessory shaft.
suce
guar_
saw
Fig. 160 Edging Label
Accessory
Clothing,
swl_ch
Safety
1. For your safety use only recommended accessories. Use of any other accessories may
increase the risk of injury. See Recommended Accessory section of manual.
2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off
wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because
they can break explosively and throw pieces.
You can be blinded or recieve a life threatening puncture wound. Do not use grinding
wheels, abrasive/cut
off wheels or wire wheels.
Fig. 161 Arbor Shaft Position When Using Accessory Shaft
73
Cutting
Accessories
Fences
Fences
are required
Push
for all saw operations.
Push sticks are used during ripping when the
blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from
the fence.
Crosscutting
requires fences with kerfs (slots)
to match the path of the saw, because the saw
blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence
to cut the workpiece.
Make
a push
stick
when:
• the blade is to be placed
ches from the fence;
Ripping requires a solid fence with no kerfs
or slots, because the fence serves as a guide
for the workpiece being pushed into the saw
blade. If the workpiece
is pushed along a
fence with kerfs, the workpiece
can get
caught on a kerf, pinch the blade and cause
the workpiece
to kickback.
Make
Stick
• existing
2 to 6 in-
push stick has been
To make a push
damaged.
stick:
1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free)
ber.
piece of lum-
a new fence:
2. Cut a piece
wide.
• when the fence used for crosscutting
has weakened
from having too many
kerfs cut in it;
15 inches
3. Cut a 45 degree
long by 1 5/8 inches
notch in one end as shown.
Slightly
Thickness
• when you want to make a rip cut but
the fence on the saw has kerfs;
Less Than
of Workpiece
u p to 318" --_
1-5/8i
• when you want to crosscut a
workpiece
higher than your current
fence.
To make
Note: All Dimensions
a new
fence:
1. Use 3/4 inch knot free lumber.
particle board or other composite
cause they are not strong enough.
in Inches
Fig. 162 Push Stick Dimensions
Do not use
material be-
2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length
of the table, and to a width equal to the
height of the workpiece
plus one inch. The
installed fence must be equal to or higher
than the workpiece.
Fig. 163 Way to Use Push Stick
74
Auxiliary
Fence and Push
Block
An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade
is positioned between
1/2 inch and 2 inches
from the fence during ripping. An auxiliary
fence must always be used with a push block.
Their purpose is to keep your hands away
from the saw blade. They are also needed
when you use the molding head.
Make
an auxiliary
fence
3/8" Plywood
This Face and This
Edge Must Be Parallel
3/4" Plywood
when:
• the blade is to be placed
less from the fence;
Note: All Dimensions
2 inches or
Push
• an existing at_dliary fence is not the
same width all along its length;
• the existing auxiliary fence
damaged by blade contact.
To make
auxiliary
Push blocks
fence.
has been
are always used with an auxiliary
• the blade is to be placed
inches from the fence;
and two
• you make
2. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood
long by 5 1/2 inches wide.
1/2 inch to 2
the first auxiliary fence;
to 44 inches
• existing
3. Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44 inches long by 3 5/8 inches wide.
4. Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood
inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.
To make
push block has been
damaged.
a push block:
1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood
piece of 3/8 inch plywood.
to 44
and one
2. Cut the 3/4 inch plywood to 12 inches long
by 5 inches wide.
5. Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood pieces
together so that they line up square (flush)
on an edge.
3. Cut a triangular piece off each of two
corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a
pencil in and down from the corners 1 1/4 inches and cutting along the diagonal formed
by the points.
6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right
angle to and flush against the 2 1/4 inch wide
3/4 inch plywood.
7. Reinforce
Block
Make a push block when:
fence:
1. Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood
pieces of 3/4 inch pb_ood.
in Inches
Fig. 164 Auxiliary Fence Dimensions
with nails.
4. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood
by 5 1/8 inches wide.
• f,•
75
to 12 inches long
5. Cut out a notch from the 12 inch side of
Auxiliary
the 3/8 plywood that is 9 1/2 inches long by
3/8 inch wide. The dimensions
of the remaining 3/8 plywood are shown in Fig. 165.
Fence for Edging
Make an auxiliary
* before doing edging
0° miter position.
6. Glue the 3/4 inch plywood on top of the
3/8 inch plywood so that their 12 inch sides
are square, as shown;
• when existing
damaged.
These Edges Must
Be Parallel
3/4"
\
fence for edging:
with the arm at
ones have been
Plywood
To make a fence for edging:
1-1/4 x
1-1/4
1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot-free)
3/8
2-1/2![
s-1/8
F---4
2. Cut to the dimensions
1
Auxiliary
Fence
lumber.
shown.
Spacer
Table
3/8" Plywood
Rear Table
/<
2-1/2
3/8
Note:
All Dimensions
3/&
in Inches
Fig. 165 Push Block Dimensions
7. Cut a piece of plywood
2 1/2 inches long and glue
of the 3/8 inch plywood in
that sticks out. Do not use
you accjOently
the saw blade,
3/8 inch wide by
it to the underside
line with the edge
nails because if
_---18-3/4-_
1"
cut into the push block with
the nails will dull the blade.
"
p
1811/4---_j
45°_74/45°
"
" 12"1/4
314
T-
.1_
.o.e:
A,,O. oosions,:,nohe
8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary
fence to make sure that their widths match exactly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.
Fig. 167Auxiliary Fence for Edging
For use of the molding head or drum sander
_qth saw arbor vertical, the rear table requires an opening (next to rear face of fence)
for arbor clearance. Cut opening directly
below arbor in vertical position. Opening
dimensions are shown below.
Rear Table-,-
I
---1
_Note:
t_-
3
l!3-1/2
I
2t ----_
All Dimensions
[
in Inches
Fig. 168 Rear Table Opening Dimensions
_-,_
, 'r
_ '
'
Fig. 166 Way to Use Auxiliary
]
!PI
__
Fence/Push
Block
76
Featherboard
Featherboards
are used during rip cutting to
help keep the workpiece
against the fence.
The featherboard
is clamped to the front
table, so that the angled edge of the featherboard is against the workpiece
on the infeed
end of the blade. The other edge of the
workpiece
is against the fence.
Make new featherboards
have been damaged.
when existing
1. Use solid (knot free) lumber
5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch.
ones
24 inches
by
2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 5 1/2 inches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down
on the right from the edge of the board.
Draw a line between the points.
3.Crosscut workpiece
to make the kerfs.
Attaching Auxiliary
Board
Crooked
Workpiece
If the workpiece you want to rip cut does not
have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board
to the workpiece.
at a 30 ° angle then rip
4. Do not clamp the featherboard
cut off part of the workpiece.
against
to
the
1. Place irregular
side of workpiece
against
fence.
2. Place straight edged auxilia U board on top
of workpiece and against fence.
3. Tack the auxilia U board to the workpiece.
The atLxiliary board must not extend beyond
the leading end of the workpiece
and should
cover the workpiece
width only enough to
pass between the blade and fence.
Note: All
Dimensions
F;ff. 169 Featherboard
in Inches
3. Use a fence that is equal to or higher than
the combined height of the workpiece
and
auxiliary board.
Dimensions
77
*Recommended
Item
Lower Retractable
Guard
A lower retractable
guard which meets
OSHA requirements
for occupational
use
of the radial saw is available. (See Note)
The lower guard is designed
to provide
protection from contact with the fiat sides
of the blade when the radial saw is in the
90 ° crosscut position
and in its rearmost
position
behind
the fence.
The lower
guard
only provides
protection
against
minor lacerations and bruises.
Cat. No.
Saw blades
(10" diameter with 5/8" hole)
Caster
See Catalog
9-22254
Sanding Drum
Drill Chuck and Key
Dust Collector
9-25246
9-2980
See Catalog
Molding Head Guard 8"
9-29523
Taper Jig
Auxiliary Table Cover
Miter Square
Extension
Accessories
9-3233
See Catalog
9-32056
Table
9-32787
Satin Cut Dado
7"
9-3257
8"
9-3253
8" Carbide
Standard Cut Dado
9-3264
8"
9-32475
Adjustable Dado
7"-24 Tooth Carbide
7"-32 Tooth Carbide
943261
9-3262
7"-16 Tooth
9-3263
Carbide
8"-48 Tooth Carbide
9-32708
Molding Heads
7"-Bits Not Included
7"-27 Piece Set
7"-15 Piece Set
9-3214
9-3217
9-3218
Sanding Wheel-10"
Blade Stabilizer
Cabinet Acessories
9-22723
9-2952
Shelf
9-22251
Door
9-22252
3 Drawer Set
Books
9-22253
Power Tool Know How
Guards
Lower Retractable Guard
_IWARNING:
The lower guard does
not provide
protection
during actual
crosscutting or ripping,
or from contact in line with or at an angle to the
saw blade teeth. When in the cut, the
inner and outer guards ride on top of
the fence or workpiece
exposing
the
saw blade teeth.
Fingers, hands or
arm can be cut off if the saw blade is
contacted. Additional
hazards are explained in the instructions
accompaning the lower blade guard.
Al_ WARNING:
The lower blade
guard can get caught or jammed
in
fence and table kerfs, jam while setting up for and while making bevel
and compound miter cuts and jam
during certain in-rip cuts. The
workpiece
or narrow cut-off pieces
could kickback
causing your hands
to be cut by the blade.
Use the
lower retractable
guard in the 90 °
crosscut position
only.
r-
Handbook
•
WARNING:
See Catalog
TO AVOID INJURY
SHUT OFF POWER
BEFORE CLEARING
A
JAMMED LOWER GUARD
9-29009
(For 90 ° Crosscut Only)
,-
* Recommended means that these accessories
are designed to fit this radial arm saw. Read and
follow accessory instructions on their use and
limitations.
#
Fig. 171 Lower Guard Labe/
Note: Employers are required to provide the
lower retractable guard unless OSHA grants an
exemption. This saw is designed for use in noncommercial
78
settings.
Glossary
Anti-kickback
Pawls: Pivoted objects with
teeth which help prevent workpiece
kickback.
Arbor:
blade.
The bar or shaft that holds the saw
Bevel: The slanting of the motor
an angle between 0° and 90 °.
Crosscut:
Dado:
square
Molding Cut: Non-through
cut which
produces a contoured
surface on the
workpiece.
Cutting
Non-through
sided notch
a workpiece
and blade
Outfeed: The end of the saw blade where the
rip cut workpiece leaves the saw blade; identified by presence of pawls.
to
Out-rip: Positioning
the motor toward the
fence, the blade toward the front of the table
during ripping.
to length.
cut which produces a
or trough in the workpiece.
Featherboard:
Device used to keep
workpiece in contact with the fence during
ping.
Parallel: When two surfaces
tance apart at all points.
rip-
are the same dis-
Perpendicular: When two surfaces are 90°
(square) to each other.
Freehand: Performing
a cut without the use
of fence, guide or hold-down
designed to
prevent the workpiece
from moving during
the cutting operation.
Push Block/Auxiliary
Fence: Two accessories
used together for ripping a workpiece between 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide.
Heel: Misalignment
blade travel path.
Push Stick: Cutting accessory used during ripping a workpiece
between 2 inches and 6 inches wide.
of the blade
relative
to
Infeed: The end of the saw blade where the
workpiece
is fed during ripping; identified by
the absence of pawls.
Revolutions
Per Minute (RPM): Number of
turns completed
by an object in one minute.
Ripping: Used to change the width of a
workpiece
by cutting along its length.
In-Rip: Positioning
the the motor toward the
front of the table, the blade toward the fence.
Spreader:
Used during ripping
kerf from closing and pinching
helps prevent kickback.
Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by
the blade in a through cut, or a shallow slot
produced by the blade in a non-through
cut.
Workpiece:
Kickback:
workpiece
Uncontrolled
throwing
during ripping.
Miter: Positioning
left of 0°.
of the
the saw arm to the right or
79
Object
to keep the
the blade. It
being cut by the saw.
Helpful Hints
In order to get accurate cutting results
your radial arm saw, do the following:
1. Follow all steps in the Alignment
the Blade section.
3. Place the same edge of the workpiece
against the fence for all cuts. Make the
first cut at one end of the workpiece,
then flip the workpiece
over and make
the second cut from the other end. Continue this way until all four cuts are
made. (Figure 172)
from
of
2. Place the long edge of your framing
square against the edge of the
workpiece
that will be held against the
fence during cutting. Make sure that
this edge of the work_iece
is straight.
This Edge of Board
Against Fence For All Cuts
Fence
/,
3. Make sure that your workpiece lays
flat on the front table of your saw.
/
Turn workpiece
over end for end...
keep
against
same edge
fence
when
making successive cuts.
4. Clean all sawdust
from the table.
and woodchips
5. Hold the workpiece
firmly against the
fence and table during all cuts. You
should use extra force during miter and
bevel cuts since the workpiece
tends to
move when these cuts are made.
__
2nd am
Pencil Line for
Gauging Required Length
6. Use the right sawblade for each job,
and make sure that all blades and cutting tools are sharp.
Fig. !72 - Making a 4-Sided Frame
When making a four-sided frame:
4. Make a pencil line on the table for
gauging the length of each cut.
1. Make sure that the top and bottom
pieces are exactly the same length.
2. Make sure that both side pieces are
exactly the same length.
8O
3. Lock the miter,
To extend the life of the front table of your
saw, tack a piece of 1/4 inch plywood over it.
Make sure that the tacks are not in the path
of the saw blade.
bevel, or swivel lock.
These steps will reduce stress on saw parts,
and improve the accuracy of your cuts.
Use of a front table cover does the following:
The following table is provided to convert the
decimal numbers on the digital display to
fractions. All decimals are rounded to the
nearest .01 inch. (Figure173)
.Allows all cuts to be made in the cover
rather than the front table.
.Slows the dulling of the blade.
.06
.09
.03
.12
There are three pre-set miter angles at 45 °,
0°, and -45 °, five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,
-45 °, 0 °, 45 °, and 90 °, and three pre-set
swivel angles at the crosscut, in-rip and outrip positions. When you are moving the arm,
blade, or motor into one of these positions,
do the following:
.60
.63
.66
.69
.19
.29
.16
.25
.31
.34
.28
.38
1. Move the arm, blade, or motor past
the position you want, and then gradually bring it back.
.94
,44
.47
,50
2. Once the arm, blade, or motor snaps
into the desired position, push it to the
right as far as possible within this position. Movement
of the arm, blade, or
motor will be slight.
M2J @._
@
Decimal Equivalent
Fig. 173
81
.97
1.00
=
Maintaining
Your Saw
General
To avoid motor damage the motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent
sawdust build-up which will interfere with
normal motor ventilation.
WARNING:
For your own safety,
turn power switch off and remove plug
from power source outlet before maintaining or lubricating your saw.
Lubrication
Your saw is precision built and should be
kept properly lubricated.
Before describing
the various points which may periodically
require lubrication,
it is more important
to first
mention the points which should not be lubricated.
When you receive your new Craftsman
radial
saw, it requires no lubrication.
The radial
saw has been partially aligned and all bearings are lubricated
and sealed for life. In
time, however, in order to keep your saw in
perfect working order and accurate, it will be
necessary to lubricate and realign. In fact
your radial saw needs more of a cleaning
than a lubrication.
Do not lubricate
the following:
• carriage ball bearings
Replacing
Antikickback
Pawls
.motor bearings
Make sure the teeth of the antikiekbackpawL_
are always sharp. If they become dull they
must be replaced. With a 1/2 inch wrench or
socket remove the 5/16 hex nut and old
pawls. Reassemble
new antikickback
pawIs
and spreader to the bar. Check spreader for
proper alignment
and correct if necessary.
(See Alignment
of the Blade, Installing
Guard / Setting Spreader
section.)
• area between the miter
and the column tube
locking
rings
The carriage ball bearings and motor bearings
are sealed ball bearings which require no
added lubrication.
Cleaning
Do lubricate the following, periodically,
using
SAE No 10W-30 automotive
engine oil:
Periodically remove any heavy build-up of
sawdust that may accumulate on the saw.
The absorbing tendency of sawdust will draw
lubricants away from the areas where they
are needed. Clean the carriage bearings and
track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease
accumulate repeatedly on carriage bearings
and track inspect the wipers for wear and
replace if necessary. (See Adjustments to
Compensate for Wear, Swivel Lock, later in
this section.)
.Apply a few drops of oil along the
swivel index pin and the bevel index pin
only if the pins have a tendency to
stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for
easy access to the swivel indexpin.
Bevel to 45°and bevel index pin can be
easily accessed behind the yoke as illustrated.
(Figure 174)
82
• Lubricate the cam surfaces
lock assembly.
of the rip
• A light film of oil should be wiped on
the face of the column tube to lubricate
the fit between the column tube and
column support. With elevation handwheel raise arm to upper limit. Completely collapse bellows by pulling
down on top flange as illustrated
for access to column tube. (Figure 176)
Fig. 174 - Swivel and Bevel Index Pins
• Lubricate the bearing points where the
arm attaches to the column tube. With
a -#2 Phillips screwdriver
remove two
screws and the rear arm cover for access to these points.
Be careful not to
get lubricant on the locking rings as this
will adversely affect the miter locking
function. (Figure 175)
Fig. 176 - Collapsed Bellows
®
LOCKING
RING
.The thread on the elevation shaft assembly can be lubricated
through the
oil hole in the center of the radial arm
cap. Lubricate
spring.
ramp on the swivel index
• Apply a few drops of oil to the foot assemblies, where the levers are inserted
through the rods.
Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any
location will attract airborne dust particles
and sawdust.
Fig. 175 - Bearing Points Where Arm Attaches to
Column Tube
Refer to parts lists for locations
needed.
83
of parts as
Adjustments
Bevel
Swivel
for Wear
This handle provides a friction lock between
the upper face of the yoke and the bottom
face of the carriage. It should eliminate any
play or rotation between these two parts when
locked. An adjustment
is required if the yoke
can be easily rotated by hand when handle is
locked or yoke lock handle offers minimal
resistance when moving handle to the locked
position. To make this adjustment:
Lock
The purpose of the bevel lock is to lock the
motor at any bevel angle. An adjustment is
required if the motor can be easily moved by
hand when the bevel lock is locked or if bevel
lock offers minimal resistance when moving it
to the locked position. To make this adjustment:
1. Remove
motor
support
Lock
cover.
2. Position the motor at approximately
30 °
bevel angle and lock bevel lock. (Figure 177)
Fig. 178
l.
Remove
swivel
arm
2.
Fig. 177 - Bevel Lock - Locked
3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex
nut located at the back of the motor support
casting until the motor can no longer be easily
moved by hand. Do not overtighten.
using
the
This
from
the arm
nut
knob
from
screw
driver.
two screws
from
will separate
the
from
knob
a regular
Remove
Using
and
Remove
arm.
3.
4. Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any
of the five index positions. If the motor does
not index securely the adjustment
is too tight.
Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel indexpin
seats properly.
screw
lock.
the
portion
nut
is done
by locating
corners
of the square
lock
swivel
lock
wrench
of the swivel
wrench
square
portion
one quarter
the
rotation
wrench
nut then
portion
lock.
tighten
84
the
at a time.
across
moving
wrench
until it lines up with the arm
and the two screw holes are in line.
5. Adjustment
is complete when both locking
and indexing functions are working properly.
Replace motor support cover.
on
swivel
the
the
portion
This
Arm and Column
With the miter lock unlocked and in the unindexed position the arm should fit snugly to
the column tube and not allow any vertical
movement.
If you can move the end of the
arm up and down an adjustment
is needed.
1. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver
screws and the rear arm cover.
remove two
2. With a 9/16 inch wrench or socket tighten
evenly the top two 3/8-16 hex head tapping
screws. The bottom two screws should also be
tightened evenly but not as tight as the top
screws. (Figure 180)
Fig. 179
4.
Holding
rotate
rotate
yoke
been
the
wrench
and
arm
in position
yoke to a non-preset
position
and
swivel lock to the locked position.
can still be moved
tightened
enough.
the square nut has
Repeat
step 3.
5. When the adjustment
can no longer be moved
is in the locked
If the
not
is such that the yoke
when the swivel lock
position.
Install
the
two
screws.
>
6.
Unlock
swivel
non-preset
position.
arm
position.
If the
and
rotate
Return
index
pin
yoke
yoke
does
>
to a
>
to a rip
not securely
seat at the preset position,
the adjustment
is
too tight. Remove
the two screws and loosen
the square
index
7.
pin
nut one
seats
Adjustment
and preset
quarter
turn
until
Fig. 180 - Location of Hex Head Tapping Screws
swivel
3. This adjustment
is correct when the arm
moves firmly without vertical movement.
securely.
is complete
position
functions
when
both
locking
4. Re-install
are working
properly.
Carriage
8. Re-install the two screws mounting
wrench portion of the swivel lock.
9.
Re-install
screw
and
knob
to swivel
handle
and
the
the rear arm
cover.
Bearings
The carriage should roll freely but with some
resistance for the entire length of travel. To
check for bearing looseness, perform the following steps.
install
nut in knob.
1. Place yoke in either
position.
85
the in-rip or out-rip
2. Push the carriage back against
the rear stop.
3. Hold the front carriage bearing with your
fingers as tight as possible and pull carriage
forward at the same time. If you can prevent
the bearing from turning an adjustment
is required. (Figure 181)
Fig. 182 - Location
of Hex Nut
3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn
(left or right) as required to take up looseness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equal
amount to maintain blade squareness
to the
table in the rip positions.
4. Hold the head of the eccentric
Fig. 181 - Front Carriage Bearings
new position and retighten the nuts. Do not
overtighten.
Overtightening
the bearings will
cause difficult operation
and severly reduce
the life of the track and bearings.
4. Repeat step 3 with the rear carriage bearings.
To adjust
following
the carriage bearings' perform
steps:
bolts in their
the
5. Repeat the test procedure as described
above and readjust if necessary.
1. Clean and lubricate the bearing races and
the bead on which they ride prior to adjustment.
Miter Lock
The miter lock operates adjustable locking
bands which lock the arm to the column tube
in both indexed and unindexed positions. If
the arm can be easily moved by hand when
locked in an unindexed position the following
adjustment must be made.
2. To adjust the bearing, use a 9/16 inch
wrench to hold the bolt head while using a
1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.
(Figure 182)
1. Move the arm to an unindexed position
and leave the miter lock in the unlocked position. (Figure 183)
86
Rip Lock
The HI) lock locks the carriage in any position
along the length of the arm. If the carriage
can be easily moved by pushing and pulling
on the yoke handle when the rip lock is in the
locked position an adjustment
is required.
1. Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position
and with a 7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/420 hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 185)
Track
Arm
Fig. 183 - Miter Lock - Unlocked
2. With a 3/16 inch hex "L" wrench find the
1/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole
in the rear of the arm cover. To tighten turn
the wrench clockwise approximately
1/4 turn.
(Figure 184)
Spring
Locknut
Washer
Rip Lock
Lever
L
/
Cam
",,
Carriage
Bolt
Fig. !85 - Location of Hex Lock Nut
2. Lock the rip lock and try again to move the
carriage. Make additional
adjustments
if
necessary.
3. Place the rip lock in the unlocked position
and move the carriage back and forth from
stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to
move at any point or you can feel the rip lock
dragging on the track the adjustment
is too
tight. Loosen the hex nut one half the
amount of the last adjustment
and try again.
Fig. 184 - Location of Hex Socket Cap Screw
3. Lock the miter lock and try again to move
the arm. Readjust if necessary.
4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push
the miter lock into the locked position too
much adjustment
has been made. Turn the
wrench counterclockwise
one half the
amount of the last adjustment
to lock the arm.
and try again
87
3. As soon as the red button
Motor
will click into
running position, the saw may be started
operated
normally.
To avoid motor damage this motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently
to prevent
sawdust buildup which will interfere with normal motor ventilation.
and
4. Frequent blowing of fuses or tripping of circuit breakers may result if:
Your saw is equipped
with a manual reset
button designed to open the power line circuit when the motor temperature
exceeds a
safe level, motor is overloaded,
or a low voltage condition exists. (Figure 186)
• Motor is overloaded:
Overloading
can
occur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is
misaligned
so that the blade heels.
.Motor circuit is fused differently from
recommendations:
Always follow instructions for the proper fuse/breaker.
Do not use a fuse/breaker
of greater
capacity without consulting a qualified
electrician.
Manual Reset Button
.Low voltage: Although the motor is
designed for operation
on the voltage
and frequency specified on the
nameplate,
normal loads will be handled safely on voltages not more than
10% above or below the nameplate
voltage. Heavy loads, however, require
that voltage at motor terminals equal
the voltage specified on nameplate.
\
Fig. 186 - Manual Reset Button
,Improper
1. If the protector opens the line and stops
the saw motor, immediately
turn the saw
switch off, remove the yellow key, and allow
the motor to cool.
2. After cooling to a safe operating
temperature, the overload protector
can be closed
manually by pushing the red button on the
top of the motor.
If the red button will not
click into place immediately,
the motor is still
too hot and must be allowed to cool for a
while longer.
The motor may take as long to cool as it did
for the heat to build up. An audible click
when you push the red button will indicate
that the protector
is closed (reset) and the
saw is ready for use.
88
extension cord size.
Changing
_11_DANGER:
Motor
Voltage
To avoid electric shock unplug the saw before changing
motor voltage.
Dual Voltage Switch
Under normal home workshop usage, and if
full voltage is supplied to the motor, your saw
will operate efficiently on 120V, as connected
at the factory. However, if any of the following conditions exist, it will be advisable for
you to have a qualified electrician
reconnect
the motor for 240V operation:
• I [eavy duty operations.
• Either an undersized
or an overloaded
branch circuit serving the saw motor.
• Low voltage supplied by the power
source, which the power company cannot correct.
Fig. 187 - Dual Voltage Switch
3. Replace the 120V power cord plug with a
240V, 15 AMP, 3-blade plug. (Figure 188)
The procedures
for changing the motor voltage (factory set for 120V) are described
below. These instructions
should be followed
by a qualified
electrician
only.
Grounding Blade Is
Longest of 3 Blades
Note: Whenever changing the switch position
from 120V to 240V or vice versa, make certain that all necessary steps (including proper
fusing of the branch circuit) are completed.
Connection
1. Remove
motor.
for 120V A.C.
motor coverpanel
at blade
Grounded
Outlet Box
end of
No Adapter
2. Using a small screwdriver,
age switch to 120V position.
motor cover panel.
3. Use 120V power
slide dual voltThen replace
cord furnished
1. Remove
motor.
For This Type Plug
Fig. 188 - 240V Plug and Receptacle
4. Connect the power cord white and black
leads, respectively,
to the two "hot" plug
blades, and connect the power cord grounding wire to the plug ground prong.
with the
saw.
Connection
Is Available
for 240V A.C.
motor coverpanel
at blade
5. Plug the saw into a 240V,
receptacle.
end of
15 AMP, 3-blade
6. Make certain the receptacle
is connected
to a 240V A.C. power supply through a 240V
branch circuit having at least a 15 AMP time
delay fuse or circuit breaker.
2. Using a small screwdriver,
slide dual voltage switch to 240V position. Then replace
motor cover panel. (Figure 187)
89
Troubleshooting
=
_I_ WARNING:
To avoid injury turn power switch off and remove plug from power
source outlet before troubleshooting.
Electronics
Problem
Probable
No display when On/Off
button is pressed.
Battery
Cause
not installed
Battery contacts
Battery
Indicator
•
dead.
display failure.
dark.
after a few
Display blanks when
moving carriage, then
re-appears
when motion
stops.
is
Adjust battery
partment.
position
Clean battery
contacts.
in com-
Replace
alkaline
battery
battery.
with 6V, size J,
Contact
checked
Sears. Have electronics
by qualified technician.
No action required.
Follow procedure
for setting zero
reference points in the Setting
Electronic
Display section.
Poor battery contact
to indicator display leads causing
termittent
power to display.
Clean battery contacts. Adjust
battery position in compartment.
display
Low battery
Display dim.
Display blanks
minutes,
dirty.
to Do
Reference points not set for
desired display.
Indicator
Display
correctly.
Normal display when battery
first installed in unit.
Display shows
ELE
What
failure.
voltage.
in-
Contact Sears. Have electronics
checked by qualified technician.
Replace
alkaline
battery
battery.
with 6V, size J,
Saw very cold.
Allow
32°F.
saw to warm
Saw very warm.
Allow
saw to cool to below
Normal.
Press On/Off button.
should return.
Normal. Sometimes indicator
will not display while blade
position is changing rapidly.
No action required.
90
to above
Display
120_F.
Electronics
-2
Probable
Problem
What to Do
Cause
Arm or carriage moved too
rapidly for indicator to monitor,
Follow procedure
for setting
zero reference
points in the Setting Electronic Display section.
Display will reset to zero
but immediately
shows
EEE.E or EE.EE when
arm or carriage is moved.
Encoder or indicator
defective.
Have electronics checked by
qualified technician. Repair service available at nearest Sears
Store.
Display does not change
when arm or carriage is
moved.
Wrong indicator
selected.
Display
EE.EE.
shows EEE.E
or
function
Encoder or indicator
defective.
Display does not read 0°,
or 45 ° at bevel or miter indexes.
Indicator
reference
Angle
display
Select proper
display
not set to zero
at index points.
encoder
function.
Have electronics checked by
qualified technician. Repair service available at nearest Sears
Store.
Follow procedure
for setting
zero reference
points in the Setting Electronic Display section.
not adjusted.
Follow procedure
for adjusting
encoders in the Setting
Electronic Display section.
Motor
Problem
Motor
will not run.
Motor will not run and
fuses blow.
What
Probable
Cause
Protector
open; circuit
broken.
to Do
Push red button located on top
of motor. Listen for audible
click that indicates motor is
reset.
Low voltage.
Check power
voltage.
Short circuit in line, cord, or
plug.
Inspect line, cord, and plug for
damaged insulation and shorted
wires.
Short circuit in motor or loose
connections.
Inspect all terminals in motor
for loose or shorted terminals
or worn insulation wires.
Incorrect
Install
fuses in power
91
line.
line for proper
correct fuses.
Motor - 2
Probable
Problem
Motor fails to develop full
power.
(Power output of motor
decreases rapidly with
decrease in voltage at
motor terminals.
For example: a reduction
of
10% in voltage causes a
reduction
of 19% in maximum power output of
which the motor is
Power
What
Cause
line overloaded
lights, appliances,
motors.
Undersize
with
to Do
Reduce
the line load.
and other
wires or circuit too
long.
Increase wire sizes, or reduce
length of wiring.
General overloading
of power
company's facilities.
(In many sections of the
country, demand for electrical
power exceeds the capacity of
existing generating
and distribution systems).
Request a voltage check from
power company.
Excessive feed rate when
crosscutting or ripping.
Slow down rate of feed.
Improper
cooling.
(Air circulation
restricted
through motor due to sawdust,
etc.)
Clean out sawdust to provide
normal air circulation
through
motor.
Saw blade has heel.
Refer to Making Blade Parallel
to Table section.
Motor starts slowly or
fails to come up to full
speed.
Starting switch will not trip due
to low voltage.
Correct
low voltage
Motor stalls resulting in
blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers.
Voltage too low to permit
motor to reach operating speed,
Correct
dition.
the low line voltage
Fuses or circuit breakers
have sufficient capacity,
Replace
breakers
units.
fuses or circuit
with proper capacity
Reduce
motor
capable, while a reduction
of 20% in w)ltage causes a
reduction of 36% in maximum power
Motor
output.)
overheats.
Frequent
or circuit
opening of fuses
breakers.
Motor
do not
overloaded.
Fuses or circuit breakers
have sufficient capacity.
92
do not
condition.
load.
Replace fuses or circuit
breakers.
con-
Saw Operations
Problem
Probable
Crosscuts
not accurate
0° and 45 ° miter.
at
Cause
Looseness
What
between
and column
column
support.
Blade,
Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Crosscut Travel.
Column
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Adjusting Elevation.
is loose in support.
Arm not indexing
properly.
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear,
Miter
Lock.
Carriage
loose on arm.
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Ripping.
assembly
yoke and car-
Sawdust between
fence.
bevel
Go to Alignment
of the
Adjusting
Elevation.
Crosscut travel not square
with fence.
Looseness
between
riage assembly.
Saw cuts at slight
(not 90 ° to table).
tube
to Do
workpiece
Fence
not straight.
Work
table not properly
Blade not square
Carriage
and
of the Blade,
to Table
for
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Swivel
Lock.
Keep front table clean.
Replace fence.
leveled.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Leveling Front Table.
to table.
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Crosscutting.
of the Blade,
to Table
for
Loose
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Ripping.
of the Blade,
to Table
for
Bearings
Bevel lock loose.
Go to Maintaining Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Bevel
Lock.
93
Saw Operations
-2
What
Cause
to Do
Problem
Probable
Workpiece kerr rough
with tooth marks from
blade (also called heel).
Saw blade
to fence.
not square
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Fence.
Saw blade
to table.
not parallel
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.
Using improper
cut desired,
Wood binds, smokes, and
motor slows down or stops
when ripping.
Dull blade
Feed
or warped
for finish
Use proper
blade.
board.
Sharpen or replace the saw
blade. Do not use severely
warped material.
rate too fast.
Saw blade
Fence
heels.
Saw blade
Work_iece
strikes
spreader when ripping.
Spreader
Saw does not travel
Dirty track.
Replace
loose on arm.
has heel.
not in line with blade.
fence.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Table for Ripping.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.
Go to Alignment
Installing Guard
Spreader.
of the Blade,
/ Setting
Clean track and lubricate
with
light grease.
on arm.
Clamping force not sufficient at miter angles other
than 45 °.
cutting
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.
assembly
Board pulls away from
fence when ripping.
smooth
Slow feed rate.
not straight.
Carriage
smoothly
blade
Bad bearing.
Replace bearing.
Worn track.
Replace track.
Miter lock needs
adjustment.
94
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Miter
Lock.
Saw Operations - 3
Problem
Probable
Cause
Clamping force not sufficient at bevel angles other
than 45 °.
Bevel lock needs
Depth
Table
of cut varies
from
top
What to Do
adjusting.
not parallel
with
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Bevel
Lock.
arm.
Go to Alignment
one end of the work_iece
to the other.
Blade tends
through
to advance
lumber
Dull blade.
of the
Leveling
Front
Replace
or sharpen
Table.
blade.
too fast.
Not advancing
Draw saw blade
saw properly.
across lumber
with a slow and steady
Table
cannot
Blade,
be leveled.
(Right side is higher than
left side with no adjustment
left, or vice versa.)
Column support shifted where
mounts to saw base.
95
it
Loosen
the
six bolts
the column
support
base and shift arm.
pull.
that
to the
hold
saw
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113,198611
10
ISEE
FIG.
6)
\
il
]_12
13
i
o
11
14
17
3
18_,,,_
15
4
\
5
78
3
25
9
(SEE
FIGS}
/
21
29
(SEE
FIG,
47
2)
(SEE
FIG.
3&
4)
ISEE FIG.
9J
30
)
50
19
25
37 45
43
ptt42
49
38
Figure 1
96
SAW
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
Always
order by Part Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
STD601103
2
3
STD551010
815857-1
8O838O-6
5
6
7
8
815710
815649
815820
816333
9
10
11
806828-3
12
13
60128
60074
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
37384
815762
815989
STD532512
815834
STD551225
STD541025
815990
STD522506
STD551012
STD54!425
815832
815797
27
28
446188
817113
817114
29
30
3!
815856-1
*Standard
Hardware
Key
No.
Description
*Screw, Pan Rec.
Type T 10-32 x 3/8
*Washer, 13/64 x 7/16 x 1/16
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
3/8-16 x 1-1/2
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd
Plastite No. 8 x 1
Strap
Bearing, Arm
Cap, Arm
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "TT" 10-32 x 7/8
Arm Assembly (see Fig. 5)
Table Boards Set (see Fig. 6)
i *Screw, Pan Cross Ty T
1/4-20 x 1-3/4
Washer, 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
Screw, Hex Socket Set
1/4-20 x 7/8
Nut, Tee
Bushing, Rubber
Clip, "U" 1/4-20
*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 1-1/4
Bushing, Eccentric
Lockwasher, External 1/4
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
Button, Table Slide
*Screw, Hex Hd 1/4-20 x 5/8
*Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/32
*Nut, Lock 1/4-20
Rod, Actuator
Screw, Pan Hd. Rec.
Type AB 1/4 x 1-1/4
Washer, 17/64 x 3/4 x !/16
Rail Assembly, L.H.
Rail Assembly, R.H.
Yoke and Motor Assembly
(see Figs. 3 & 4)
Guard Assembly (see Fig. 12)
Screw, Hex Wash Hd.
5/16-18 x 1-1/4
Item
may be Purchased
- Not by Key Number
1
Part
No.
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
815980
60208
815774
816114
815764
802279-8
802955-7
62410
815869
STD601103
42
43
44
45
46
815753
815922
815881
815766
47
48
49
m
815935
5O 805589-5
51 815773
SP5105
507787
507788
507787
507788
507789
507804
507808
Locally,
97
SAW
Description
Bushing
Nut, Push 1/4
Rivet 1/4 x 1/2
Cord with Plug
Bracket, Pivot
Bushing
Ring, Push-On
Pin
Cap, Trim L.H.
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" #10-32
Cover, Lever
Ledge, Trim
Cap, Trim R.H.
Lever, Lock
Base and Column
(see Fig. 2)
Cabinet Assembly,
Model
Cabinet
Model
Screw,
1/4 x
Screw,
Cover,
Owners
x 3/8
Assembly
198411
(see Fig. 9)
Assembly,
198611 (see Fig. 8)
Pan Hd. Ty "BT"
1/2
Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2
Rear Arm
Manual (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts
(Model 198611) (Not
Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts
(Model 19861! (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts
(Model 198411) (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts
(Model 198411) (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts
(Models
198411 & 198611)
(Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts
(Model 198611) (Not
Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts
(Model 198411) (Not
Ills.)
PARTS
LIST
FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL
NOS. 113.198411
and 113,198611
SAW
3
\
lO
13
/
39
35
38
4O
1
18
41
24
2O
16
26
3O
25
Figure
98
2
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Part
No.
Key
No.
2 - BASE AND COLUMN
Key
No.
Description
ASSEMBLY
Part
No.
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
STD511105
STD551210
815707
804182
STD551031
STD551131
STD541031
815646
STD541450
816977
816976
815826
815771
STD610803
37
38
815749-1
816273
*Ring, Retaining
7/16
Washer, Thrust
.502 x .927 x .031
39
40
815864
STD601103
63618
63614
STD523107
Gear, Pinion
Bearing Lift Shaft
*Screw, Hex Hd.
5/16-18 x 3/4
41
42
815772
STD582050
815699
Bushing,
Elevation
*Ring, Retaining
1/2
Shaft, Elevating
Crank
817022
3540
63062
817106
9416187
1
815857-1
2
3
815649
141594-31
4
5
6
7
8
815774
815702
60208
815763
816647
9
10
815672
330751
11
12
13
815754
815770
817149
14
15
16
815690
STD581043
63500
17
18
19
20
21
22
*Standard
Hardware
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
3/8-16 x 1-1/2
Bearing, Arm
*Screw, Socket Hd. Cap
1/4-20 x 1-1/4
Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2
Lock Assembly
Nut, Push 1/4
Latch Arm
Screw, Soc. Hd. Ty "T"
1/4-20 x 3/4
Tube
Fastener
Bellows, Tube
Gib, Column Tube
Screw, Locking Set
1/4-20 x 5/8
Support, Column Tube
Item may be Purchased
43
44
45
Locally.
99
Description
*Screw, Pan Hd. 10-32 x 1/2
*Lockwasher,
External #10
Handwheel
*Ring, Retaining
*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16
*Lockwasher,
External 5/16
*Nut, Hex 5/16-18
Base Assembly
*Nut, Lock 1/2-13
Gear, Bevel
Shaft, Elevating
Actuator, Elevation
Nut, Elevation
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "AB" #8 x 3/8
Encoder, Elevation
Screw, Truss Rec. Hd.
1/4-20 x 1/2
Cover, Column Support
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8
Cord, Elevation
Wrench, Arbor
Wrench, Shaft
Washer, Keyed
Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T"
5/16-18 x 3/4
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
•
BEVEL
ENCODER CORD
17
18
l
/
2
22
20
MOTOR
CORD
31
30
29
28
27
35
22
24
23
4
25
Figure 3
lO0
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
2
815803
810214-2
3
4
5
6
7
815798
STD551012
816845
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
815682
815683
817162
815678
815679-1
805561-10
815791
815677
815813
815836
815685
815799
815686
808380-6
3 - YOKE AND MOTOR
Description
Cap, Motor Support
Screw, Low Hd.,
Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8
Lockwasher, Hi Collar 1/4
*Washer, 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/16
oMotor
Yoke Assembly (see Figure 4)
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 1
Cover, Handle
Handle
Grip
Washer, Shaft
Pin, Index
Washer, .505 x 7/8 x 1/16
Spring, Bevel
Lever, Bevel Lock
*Nut, Square 1/2-13
Wedge, Bevel Spring
Cover, Yoke
Plug, Yoke
Knob, Bevel Lock
ASSEMBLY
Key
No.
Part
No.
21
808380-2
22
9420474
23
24
25
26
815676
455734
815674
810214-2
27
28
29
30
815751
815673
815802
STD510802
31
32
33
805839-1
62498
9-32531
9-32668
34
35
30495
60475
Description
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 3/8
Screw, Hex Hd.
Type "T" 10-32 x 1/2
Shaft Support
Pin, Roll 1/8 x 3/4
Plate, Adjustment
Screw, Low Hd.,
Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8
Encoder, Bevel
Plate, Index
Guide, Bevel Reader
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" 8-32 x 5/16
Nut Lock 1/2-13
Collar, Blade
ll"Blade 20T Carbide
(Model 113.198611)
-i-Blade, Saw
(Model 113.198411)
Nut, Shaft
Tie, Cable
*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.
1-Stock Item may be Secured Through the Hardware Department of Most Sears Retail or Catalog Order
Houses.
eAny attempt to repair this motor may result in unit misalignment and create
HAZARD unless repair is done
by a qualified service technician. Do not loosen the three screws holding the b ,for support to the motor. This
assembly is factory aligned. Repair service is available at your nearest Sears Store.
101
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
9
7
\
10
5
2
\
1
6
4
3
33
35
36
27
/
40
42
28
Figure
102
4
SAW
PARTS
LIST
FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL
NOS. 113.198411
and 113.198611
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
810214-3
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
STD315485
STD551031
817181
815689
STD551062
815827
STD600803
9
10
11
12
13
14
815817
STD541462
62636
815693
STD541425
273229
15 816497
16 815671
17 815804
18 815692
19 STD532507
20 808380-2
21
STD541231
*Standard
4 - YOKE
Key
No.
Description
Screw, Low Hd.
Cap 5/16-18 x 7/8
*Bearing, Ball .3150 I.D.
*Washer, 21/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
Wiper, Track
Carriage
*Washer, .630 x !-1/8 x 3/32
Actuator, Rip
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" 8-32 x 3/8
Nut, Sq. Lock
*Nut, Lock 5/8-11
Nut, Sq. 1/4-20
Bracket, Rip Lock
*Nut, Lock 1/4-20
Screw, Hex Hd
Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1/2
Spring, Rip Lock
Cam, Rip Lock
Knob, Rip Lock
Lever, Rip Lock
*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 3/4
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 3/8
*Nut, Hex Jam 5/16-18
Hardware Item may be Purchased
Locally.
103
ASSEMBLY
Part
No.
22
23
24
STD551131
815691
STD551012
25
26
815798
!810214-2
27
28
29
30
31
815645
109529
815679
815680
9420474
32
33
34
35
815694
STD551031
63777
60438
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
815807
STD541025
816988
816987
816986
STD512515
STD510602
62520
Description
*Lockwasher, External 5/16
Ring, Yoke Index
*Washer, 17/64 x 7/16 x 1/32
Lockwasher, High Collar 1/4
Screw, Low Hd.,
Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8
Yoke
Nut, Square 5/8-11
Pin, Index
Spring, Swivel
Screw, Hex Type "T"
10-32 x 1/2
Stud, Yoke Clamp
Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16
Bearing, Carriage
Washer, No. 2 Carriage
Bearing
Screw, Eccentric
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
Knob, Swivel
Wrench, Adjustment
Actuator, Swivel
*Screw, Pan Hd. 1/4-20 x 1-1/2
*Screw, Pan Hd. 6-32 x 1/4
Spacer
PARTS
LIST
FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL
NOS. 113.198411
and 113.198611
SAW
26
1o
17
16
23
22
Figure
104
5
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
2
3
4
5
815688
815809
815774
815790
STD601103
6
7
815703
815856
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
815779
815741
STD363539
815735
815704
STD551208
STD600803
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
815775
815863
815976
815938
815789
816492
816333-3
*Standard
Hardware
5 - ARM ASSEMBLY
Key
No,
Description
Part
No.
Description
Arm, Radial
Cable
22
816490
Rivet,
23
24
25
815784
816178
815856
26
27
28
29
30
815867
815708
STD551010
815752
808380-9
31
32
33
34
815868
69138
815670
60419
35
36
815783
60208
Encoder, Rip
(Includes Key #20 & 21)
Label, Trim L.H.
Sleeve, Rubber
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
5/16-18 x 3/4
*Spring, Compression
Spring, Miter Lock
*Washer 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
Encoder Miter
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Plastite #10-14 x 5/16
Relief, Strain
Ring, Cord
Arm, Carriage Support
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Plastite #8 x 1/2
Label, Trim R.H.
Push Nut, 1/4
38
STD551210
*Lockwasher,
1/4 x 1/2
Actuator
Assembly
"Screw, Pan Rec.
Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8
Knob, Miter Lock
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
5/16-18 x 3/4
Bushing
Controls,
R.S.
oBattery
Lid, Battery Access
Housing,
Switch
*Lockwasher,
Internal
#8
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" #8-32 x 3/8
Switch,
Locking
Key, Switch
Bezel, Switch
Pad, Guard
Strain Relief
External #10
Clip, Wire
*Screw,
Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "TT" #10-32 x 5/8
Item may be Purchased
oCan also use these battery numbers:
Eveready #539
Rayovac #867
Duracel#7K67
Locally.
105
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS, 113.198411 and 113.198611
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
6 - TABLE
Part
No.
815757
815755
815758
817102
*Standard
Hardware
ASSEMBLY
Description
Table, Rear
Table Spacer
Fence, Rip
Table, Front
Item may be Purchased
lO6
Locally.
SAW
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
Always
order by Part Number
- Not by Key Number
_3
[
1
2
J
I
!
5
FIGURE
7 - FOOT
Key
No.
ASSEMBLY
Part
No.
STD601103
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
--
815874
817116
815879
815871
STD541237
803835-1
815878
815875
803927-3
808503-1
507799
*Standard
- MODEL
113.198611
Description
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type T 10-32 x 3/8
Retainer, Pin
Rod Assembly, Foot
Support
Actuator, Foot
*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16
Foot, Leveling
Spring
Washer
Pin, Groove
Pin
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Hardware Item may be Purchased
107
Locally.
SAW
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
3
!i
i54
I1/
1
•
1
23
1
\\
I
25
1
1
22
Figure
108
8
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
Always
FIGURE
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Part
No.
805589-5
815898
815892
STD541025
STD551225
815893
815890
815886
817151
11
12 i802392-36
13 i805529-5
14 i815888
*Standard
order by Part Number
8 - CABINET
FOR MODEL
Key
No.
Part
No.
15
Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2
Skirt 44"
Support, Center Rear
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
*Lockwasher, External 1/4
Support, Upper
Bracket, Stand Slide
Support, Front Center
Panel, Side R.H.
Drawer Assembly, 3 in.
(see Fig. 10)
Foot Assembly, R.H.
(see Fig. 7)
Spacer
Screw, Truss Hd.
1/4-20 x 1
Bracket, Center Slide
Hardware Item may be Purchased
- Not by Key Number
ASSEMBLY
Description
16
Locally.
109
SAW
17
18
19
20
21
815942
815896
815993
815991
22
23
24
25
817150
815889
815891
805529-4
26
816336
507802
113.198611
Description
Drawer Assembly 6 in,
(see Fig. 10)
Drawer Assembly 10 in.
(see Fig. 10)
Stiffener, Shelf
Caster
Support, Caster
Support, Under
Foot Assembly, L.H.
(see Fig. 7)
Panel, Side L.H.
Shelf, Lower 44 in.
Support, Lower
Screw, Slotted Truss Hd.
1/4-20 x 7/16
Stiffener - Shelf Rear
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
16
/
!
4 3
22
1
!
21
19
\
18
Figure
110
9
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Part
NO.
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
805589-5
815898
STD541025
STD551225
815893
815891
815886
815933
816274
10
11
12
13
817151
STD541237
816111
817108
*Standard
9 - CABINET
ASSEMBLY
Key
No.
Description
Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2
Skirt
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
*Lockwasher, External 1/4
Support, Upper
Support, Lower
Support, Front Center
Catch, Magnetic
Screw, Pan Hd.
Plastite 6-10 x 1/2
Panel, R.H. Side
*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16
Cover
Spacer
Hardware Item may be Purchased
Locally.
III
FOR
MODEL
Part
No.
14
15
16
803835-1
815934
816274-1
17
18
19
2O
21
22
23
815882
815942
815993
815991
817150
815889
STD600603
24
--
816336
507794
113.198411
Description
Foot, Leveling
Hinge, Door
Screw, Pan Hd.
Plastite 10-10 x 1/2
Door, Cabinet
Stiffener, Shelf
Support, Caster
Support, Under
Panel, L.H. Side
Shelf, Lower
*Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "T" 6-32 x 3/8
Stiffener - Shelf Rear
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
Always
order by Part Number
- Not by Key Number
1
3
\
FIGURE
10 - DRAWER
Key
No.
2
3
ASSEMBLIES
Part
No.
815912
815917
815919
330751
815923
815901
815902
507798
*Standard
Hardware
3", 6", 10"
Description
Drawer Assembly, 3"
Drawer Assembly, 6"
Drawer Assembly, 10"
Fastener
Drawer Front, 3"
Drawer Front, 6"
Drawer Front, 10"
Bag of Loose Parts
(Model 198611) Not Ills.
Item may be Purchased
112
Locally.
SAW
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
/
2
FIGURE
Part
No.
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
11 - MOTOR
Description
507745
STD376116
64950
64951
64948
64921
64922
STD600603
30582
*Standard
ASSEMBLY
Hardware
113
Housing, Motor
*Capacitor
Screw, Type "T"
Screw, Flat Head
Screw, Ground
Protector
Gasket
*Screw, Type 23 Pan Hd.
6-32 x 3/8
Cap, Shaft
Item may be Purchased
Locally.
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" ELECTRONIC
RADIAL
MODEL NOS. 113.198411 and 113.198611
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
5
\
1
8
10
17
16
9
9
13
14
FIGURE
12 - GUARD
p:rt
NO.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
816264-1
120399
63258
63541
815816
STD551010
STD601103
8
9
STD541231
815815
*Standard
Hardware
9
11
18
12
Key
No.
9
Key
No.
Description
Guard
*Nut, Square 5/16-18
Elbow, Dust
Bar, Anti-Kickback
Guide, Anti-Kickback
*Washer, 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
*Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8
*Nut, Hex Jam 5/6-18
Pawl
Item may be Purchased
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Locally.
114
ASSEMBLY
Part
No.
STD581050
63270
816341
60435
816070
166785-3
63538
STD510805
STD551208
STD541008
Description
*Ring, Retaining
Spreader
Bearing (Includes Key #10)
Grip
Screw, Guard Clamp
Screw, Wing 5/16-18 x 2-3/4
Clamp, Guard
*Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x 1/2
"Lockwasher, External No. 8
*Nut, Hex 8-32
NOTES
NOTES
NOTES
NOTES
NOTES
f
'N
/"-
SEA/R,.
Operators
Manual
SERVICE
MODEL NO.
113.198411
10-INCH DELUXE ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW
Now that you have purchased your 10-inch electronic radial saw,
should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any
Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. stores. Be
sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.
The model number of your 10-inch electronic radial saw will be found on
a plate attached to your saw, at the left-hand side of the base.
10" DELUXE ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW WITH
44" CABINET AND
2 DOORS
or
113.198611
10" DELUXE ELECTRONIC
RADIAL SAW WITH
44" CABINET AND
6 DRAWERS
HOW TO ORDER
REPAIR PARTS
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
PART NUMBER
PART DESCRIPTION
MODEL NUMBER
113.198411
OR
113,198611
NAME OF ITEM
DELUXE ELECTRONIC
10-INCH RADIAL SAW
All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most
Sears stores. If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will
be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center
for handling.
Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.
Part No. SP5105
Form No. SP5105-1
Printed in U.S.A. 6/1_