Craftsman 143.991200 Specifications

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TECUMSEH
T E C H N I C I A N ' S
H A N D B O O K
This manual covers engine models:
OHH50 - 65, OHHSK50 - 130, OHV11 - OHV17, OVM120,
OVRM40-675, OVRM120, OVXL/C120, OVXL120, OVXL125.
4-CYCLE
OVERHEAD
VALVE
ENGINES
740043
ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION GROUP
Engine & Transmission Sales Office
European Sales Office
Service Division & Group Offices
900 North Street
Grafton, WI 53024
Phone: 414-377-2700
FAX: 414-377-4485
Tecumseh Europa S.p.A.
Strada delle Cacce, 99
10135 Torino, Italy
Tel. 39 011 391-8411
Telefax 39 011 391-0031
900 North Street
Grafton, WI 53024
Phone: 414-377-2700
FAX: 414-377-4485
Form No. 695244A R 7/98
Litho in U.S.A.
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CONTENTS
Page
CHAPTER 1 GENERAL INFORMATION ....................... 1
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION ............................................. 1
INTERPRETATION OF MODEL NUMBER ..................... 1
SHORT BLOCKS ............................................................. 2
FUELS ............................................................................. 2
ENGINE OIL .................................................................... 2
CAPACITIES .................................................................... 2
OIL CHANGE INTERVALS .............................................. 3
OIL CHECK ...................................................................... 3
OIL CHANGE PROCEDURE .......................................... 3
TUNE-UP PROCEDURE ................................................. 3
STORAGE ....................................................................... 4
DRAINING THE FUEL SYSTEM ..................................... 4
OIL CYLINDER BORE .................................................... 4
CHAPTER 2 AIR CLEANERS ....................................... 5
GENERAL INFORMATION ............................................. 5
OPERATION .................................................................... 5
COMPONENTS ............................................................... 5
TROUBLESHOOTING OR TESTING ............................. 6
SERVICE ......................................................................... 6
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ....................................... 6
POLYURETHANE-TYPE FILTER ELEMENT
OR PRE-CLEANER ..................................................... 7
PAPER -TYPE FILTER ELEMENT ................................. 7
FLOCKED SCREEN ........................................................ 7
CHAPTER 3 CARBURETORS AND FUEL SYSTEMS . 8
GENERAL INFORMATION ............................................. 8
OPERATION .................................................................... 8
FUEL PRIMERS .............................................................. 9
IMPULSE FUEL PUMPS ................................................. 9
FLOAT STYLE CARBURETORS .................................... 9
CARBURETOR VISUAL IDENTIFICATION .................... 10
SERIES I CARBURETORS ............................................. 10
SERIES III & SERIES IV CARBURETORS .................... 10
SERIES VI CARBURETORS .......................................... 10
SERIES VII ...................................................................... 10
SERIES VIII ..................................................................... 11
SERIES IX ....................................................................... 11
WALBRO MODEL LMK ................................................... 11
TESTING ......................................................................... 12
SERVICE ......................................................................... 12
CARBURETOR PRE-SETS AND ADJUSTMENTS ........ 12
PRE-SETS AND ADJUSTMENTS
(TECUMSEH AND WALBRO CARBURETORS) ......... 13
FINAL ADJUSTMENTS ................................................... 13
TECUMSEH CARBURETORS ........................................ 13
WALBRO CARBURETOR ............................................... 13
CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ............. 14
IMPULSE FUEL PUMP ................................................... 15
FLOAT ADJUSTING PROCEDURE ................................ 16
INSPECTION ................................................................... 16
THROTTLE AND CHOKE ............................................... 16
IDLE AND HIGH SPEED MIXTURE ADJUSTING
SCREW ........................................................................ 16
FUEL BOWL RETAINING NUT ....................................... 16
FUEL BOWL, FLOAT, NEEDLE AND SEAT ................... 17
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ............................................. 18
WELCH PLUGS ............................................................... 18
THROTTLE SHAFT AND PLATE .................................... 18
CHOKE SHAFT AND PLATE .......................................... 19
FUEL INLET FITTING ..................................................... 19
HIGH AND LOW SPEED ADJUSTING SCREW,
MAIN NOZZLE ............................................................. 19
C
Tecumseh Products Company
1998
Page
INLET NEEDLE AND SEAT ............................................ 20
FLOAT INSTALLATION ................................................... 20
FUEL BOWL AND BOWL NUT ....................................... 21
IMPULSE FUEL PUMP ................................................... 21
PRIMER BULB ................................................................ 21
FINAL CHECKS ............................................................... 21
CHAPTER 4 GOVERNORS AND LINKAGE ................. 22
GENERAL INFORMATION ............................................. 22
OPERATION .................................................................... 22
TROUBLESHOOTING .................................................... 22
ENGINE OVERSPEEDING ............................................. 22
ENGINE SURGING ......................................................... 22
SERVICE ......................................................................... 23
GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT .......................................... 23
GOVERNOR GEAR AND SHAFT SERVICE .................. 23
GOVERNOR GEAR OR SHAFT REPLACEMENT,
UPSET STYLE GOVERNOR SHAFT .......................... 23
GOVERNOR SHAFT REPLACEMENT, RETAINING
RING STYLE ................................................................ 24
SPEED CONTROLS AND LINKAGE .............................. 25
CONVERSION TO REMOTE CONTROL ....................... 27
OVM, OVXL, OHV VERTICAL SPEED CONTROL ........ 28
OHV 11-17 HORIZONTAL SPEED CONTROL ............... 28
CHAPTER 5 RECOIL STARTERS ................................. 29
GENERAL INFORMATION ............................................. 29
OPERATION .................................................................... 29
COMPONENTS ............................................................... 29
SERVICE ......................................................................... 29
ROPE SERVICE .............................................................. 29
ROPE RETAINER REPLACEMENT ............................... 30
STYLIZED REWIND STARTER (OHH, OVRM, OHM,
OHSK, OVM, OVXL, OHV 11-13), AND STAMPED
STEEL STARTER ......................................................... 30
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ....................................... 30
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ............................................. 31
STYLIZED REWIND STARTER WITH PLASTIC
RETAINER .................................................................... 31
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ....................................... 31
ASSEMBLY ...................................................................... 32
KEEPER SPRING STYLE STARTERS .......................... 32
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ....................................... 32
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ............................................. 33
STYLIZED STARTER (OHV 13.5 -17) ............................ 34
ASSEMBLY ...................................................................... 34
CHAPTER 6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS .......................... 35
GENERAL INFORMATION ............................................. 35
OPERATION .................................................................... 35
STARTING CIRCUIT AND ELECTRIC STARTERS ....... 35
CHARGING CIRCUIT ...................................................... 35
CONVERTING ALTERNATING CURRENT TO
DIRECT CURRENT ...................................................... 36
HALF WAVE RECTIFIER SINGLE DIODE ..................... 36
FULL WAVE RECTIFIER BRIDGE RECTIFIER ............. 36
COMPONENTS ............................................................... 36
BATTERY ......................................................................... 36
WIRING ............................................................................ 36
ELECTRICAL TERMS ..................................................... 37
BASIC CHECKS .............................................................. 37
TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL STARTER
CIRCUIT FLOW CHART .............................................. 38
TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL CHARGING
CIRCUIT FLOW CHART .............................................. 39
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TESTING PROCEDURE ................................................. 40
STARTING CIRCUIT ....................................................... 40
CHARGING CIRCUIT ...................................................... 40
350 MILLIAMP CHARGING SYSTEM ............................ 40
18 WATT A.C. LIGHTING ALTERNATOR ....................... 41
35 WATT A.C. .................................................................. 41
2.5 AMP D.C., 35 WATT LIGHTING ............................... 41
3 AMP DC ALTERNATOR SYSTEM - DIODE IN
HARNESS SLEEVE ..................................................... 42
5 AMP D.C. ALTERNATOR SYSTEM
REGULATOR-RECTIFIER UNDER BLOWER
HOUSING ..................................................................... 43
3 AMP D.C. 5 AMP A.C. ALTERNATOR ......................... 43
MODELS OVM/OVXL/OHV12.5 ..................................... 44
MODELS OHV 13.5 - 17 (3/5 AMP SPLIT) ..................... 44
MODELS OVM/OVXL/OHV12.5
(RED BETWEEN ENGINE AND DIODE) .................... 44
MODELS OHV 13.5 - 17
(RED BETWEEN ENGINE AND DIODE) .................... 45
7 AMP D.C. ALTERNATOR SYSTEM
REGULATOR-RECTIFIER UNDER ENGINE
HOUSING ..................................................................... 45
10 AMP A.C. ALTERNATOR ........................................... 46
16 AMP ALTERNATOR SYSTEM WITH EXTERNAL
REGULATOR ................................................................ 46
VOLTAGE REGULATORS .............................................. 46
FUEL SHUT-DOWN SOLENOIDS .................................. 46
LOW OIL SHUTDOWN SWITCHES ............................... 47
LOW OIL PRESSURE SENSOR .................................... 47
LOW OIL SENSOR .......................................................... 47
ELECTRIC STARTER SERVICE .................................... 48
12 VOLT OR 120 VOLT ELECTRIC STARTERS ........... 48
INSPECTION AND REPAIR ............................................ 49
BRUSH CARD REPLACEMENT ..................................... 49
CHAPTER 7 FLYWHEEL BRAKE SYSTEMS ............... 50
GENERAL INFORMATION ............................................. 50
OPERATION .................................................................... 50
COMPONENTS ............................................................... 51
SERVICE ......................................................................... 51
BRAKE BRACKET ASSEMBLY ...................................... 52
IGNITION GROUNDOUT TERMINAL ............................. 52
STARTER INTERLOCK SWITCH ................................... 52
CONTROL CABLE .......................................................... 52
BRAKE BRACKET REPLACEMENT .............................. 52
CHAPTER 8 IGNITION ................................................... 53
GENERAL INFORMATION ............................................. 53
OPERATION .................................................................... 53
SOLID STATE IGNITION SYSTEM (CDI) ....................... 53
COMPONENTS ............................................................... 53
TESTING PROCEDURE ................................................. 54
FOUR CYCLE IGNITION TROUBLESHOOTING ........... 55
SERVICE ......................................................................... 56
SPARK PLUG SERVICE ................................................. 56
CONDITIONS CAUSING FREQUENT SPARK
PLUG FOULING ........................................................... 56
IGNITION TIMING CHECK ............................................. 57
SERVICE TIPS ................................................................ 57
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CHAPTER 9 INTERNAL ENGINE AND CYLINDER ..... 58
GENERAL INFORMATION ............................................. 58
OPERATION .................................................................... 58
4-CYCLE ENGINE THEORY .......................................... 58
LUBRICATION SYSTEMS .............................................. 59
COUNTERBALANCE SYSTEMS ................................... 59
COMPONENTS ............................................................... 60
ENGINE OPERATION PROBLEMS ............................... 61
ENGINE OPERATION PROBLEMS ............................... 62
TESTING ......................................................................... 63
ENGINE KNOCKS ........................................................... 63
ENGINE OVERHEATS .................................................... 63
SURGES OR RUNS UNEVENLY ................................... 63
ENGINE MISFIRES ......................................................... 63
ENGINE VIBRATES EXCESSIVELY .............................. 64
BREATHER PASSING OIL ............................................. 64
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION ................................. 64
LACKS POWER .............................................................. 65
SERVICE ......................................................................... 65
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE ....................................... 65
CYLINDERS .................................................................... 68
CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVE TRAIN SERVICE ......... 69
VALVES, SPRINGS, AND PUSH RODS ........................ 69
PISTONS, RINGS, AND CONNECTING RODS ............. 70
PISTON ........................................................................... 70
PISTON RINGS ............................................................... 70
PISTON RING ORIENTATION ....................................... 70
CONNECTING RODS ..................................................... 71
CRANKSHAFTS AND CAMSHAFTS .............................. 71
CAMSHAFTS ................................................................... 71
VALVE SEATS ................................................................. 72
VALVE LIFTERS .............................................................. 73
VALVE GUIDES ............................................................... 73
VALVE GUIDE REMOVAL (OVM, OHM, OHSK110
& 120, OVXL ONLY) .................................................... 73
VALVE GUIDE INSTALLATION (OVM, OHM,
OHSK110 & 120, OVXL ONLY) ................................... 73
CRANKCASE BREATHERS ........................................... 74
TOP MOUNTED BREATHER ......................................... 74
SIDE MOUNTED BREATHER ........................................ 74
CYLINDER COVER, OIL SEAL, AND BEARING
SERVICE ...................................................................... 75
CYLINDER COVER ........................................................ 75
OIL SEAL SERVICE ........................................................ 75
CRANKSHAFT BEARING SERVICE .............................. 75
BALL BEARING SERVICE .............................................. 75
SERVICE BUSHING ....................................................... 76
BUSHING SIZE CHART .................................................. 76
ENGINE ASSEMBLY ...................................................... 76
CHAPTER 10 .................................................................. 82
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS AND SEARS
CRAFTSMAN CROSS-REFERENCE ......................... 82
OVERHEAD VALVE SEARS CRAFTSMAN
CROSS REFERENCE ................................................. 82
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS ............................................ 83
OVERHEAD VALVE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ........ 85
OVERHEAD VALVE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS ........ 86
CHAPTER 11 EDUCATIONAL MATERIALS
AND TOOLS ............................................................... 87
Copyright © 1994 by Tecumseh Products Company
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted, in any form or by any
means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage
and retrieval system, without permission in writing from Tecumseh Products Company Training
Department Manager.
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CHAPTER 1 GENERAL INFORMATION
ENGINE IDENTIFICATION
Tecumseh engine model, specification, and serial
numbers or date of manufacture (D.O.M.) are stamped
into the blower housing, or located on a decal on the
engine in locations as illustrated (diag. 1 & 2). The
engine identification decal also provides the applicable
warranty code and oil recommendations (diag. 2).
Interpretation of Model Number
The letter designations in a model number indicate
the basic type of engine.
OHH
- Overhead Valve Horizontal
OHM
- Overhead Valve Horizontal
MediumFrame
OHSK - Overhead Valve Horizontal Snow King
OVM
ENGINE MODEL
NUMBER
- Overhead Valve Vertical Medium Frame
OVRM - Overhead Valve Vertical Rotary Mower
OVXL - Overhead Valve Vertical Medium Frame
Extra Life
OHV
1
- Overhead Valve Vertical
The number designations following the letters indicate
the basic engine model.
The number following the model number is the
specification number. The last three numbers of the
specification number indicate a variation to the basic
engine specification.
The serial number or D.O.M. indicates the production
date of the engine.
Using model OHV16-204207A, serial 5215C as an
example, interpretation is as follows:
OHV16-204207A is the model and specification
number.
OHV
Overhead Valve Vertical
16
Indicates the basic engine model.
204207A is the specification number used for
properly identifying the parts of the
engine.
5215C
is the serial number or D.O.M. (Date of
Manufacture)
5
is the last digit in the year of
manufacture (1995).
215
indicates the calendar day of that year
(215th day or August 3, 1995).
C
represents the line and shift on which
the engine was built at the factory.
THIS ENGINE MEETS 1995-1998
CALIF. EMISSION REGULATIONS FOR
ULGE ENGINES AS APPLICABLE
FUEL: REGULAR UNLEADED OIL : USE SAE 30
OHV 125 203000A
RTP358UIG2RA
358cc
(D)
3057D
Emissionized engines that meet the California Air
Resource Board (C.A.R.B.) or the Environmental
Protection Agency (E.P.A.) standards will include
additional required engine information on the engine
decal.
NOTE: To maintain best possible emission
performance, use only Genuine Tecumseh Parts.
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SHORT BLOCKS
SBV OR SBH IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
New short blocks are identified by a tag marked S.B.H.
(Short Block Horizontal) or S.B.V. (Short Block
Vertical). Original model identification numbers of an
engine should always be transferred to a new short
block for correct parts identification (diag. 3).
SHORT BLOCK IDENTIFICATION TAG
SBV- 564A
SER 5107
THIS SYMBOL POINTS OUT IMPORTANT
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS WHICH IF NOT
FOLLOWED COULD ENDANGER THE
PERSONAL SAFETY OF YOURSELF AND
OTHERS. FOLLOW ALL INSTRUCTIONS.
SERIAL NUMBER
FUELS
3
Tecumseh Products Company strongly recommends the use of fresh, clean, unleaded regular gasoline in all
Tecumseh Engines. Unleaded gasoline burns cleaner, extends engine life, and promotes good starting by
reducing the build up of combustion chamber deposits. Unleaded regular, unleaded premium or reformulated
gasoline containing no more than 10% Ethanol, or 15% MTBE, or 15% ETBE may also be used.
Leaded fuel is generally not available in the United States and should not be used if any of the above options
are available.
Never use gasoline, fuel conditioners, additives or stabilizers containing methanol, white gas, or fuel blends
which exceed the limits specified above for Ethanol, MTBE, or ETBE because engine/fuel system damage
could result.
Regardless of which of the approved fuels are used, fuel quality is critical to engine performance. Fuel should
not be stored in an engine or container more than 30 days prior to use. This time may be extended with the
use of a fuel stabilizer like TECUMSEH'S, part number 730245.
See "STORAGE" instructions in the Technician's Manual, Operators Manual, or Bulletin 111.
ENGINE OIL
TECUMSEH FOUR CYCLE ENGINES REQUIRE THE USE OF A CLEAN, HIGH QUALITY DETERGENT
OIL. Be sure original container is marked: A.P.I. service "SF" thru "SJ" or "CD".
TECUMSEH RECOMMENDS USING ONE OF THE FOLLOWING FOUR CYCLE OILS THAT ARE SPECIALLY
FORMULATED TO TECUMSEH SPECIFICATIONS.
DO NOT USE SAE10W40 OIL.
FOR SUMMER (Above 320 F) (0oC) USE SAE30 OIL. PART #730225
Use SAE30 oil in high temperature, high load applications. Using multigrade oil may increase oil consumption.
FOR WINTER (Below 320F) (0oC) USE SAE5W30 OIL. PART #730226
(SAE 10W is an acceptable substitute.)
(BELOW 00F (-18oC) ONLY): SAE 0W30 is an acceptable substitute.
NOTE: For severe, prolonged winter operation of HH120 model, SAE10W oil is recommended.
Capacities
Engine Model
Oz.
ml.
OHH,OHSK 50-70
21
630
OVRM 40 - 6.75
21
630
OVRM105 & 120
21
630
OHSK80 - 100
26
720
OHM, OHSK 110* - 130
32
960
OVM 120, OVXL 120, 125
32
960
OHV 11 - 13 without oil filter
32
960
OHV 11 - 13 with filter
39
1170
OHV 13.5 - 17 without oil filter
55
1650
OHV 13.5 -17 2 1/4" filter (part # 36563)
62
1860
OHV 13.5 -17 2 5/8" filter (part # 36262)
64
1920
* NOTE: Model OHSK110 with a spec. of 221000 and up, have a capacity of 26 oz. (720 ml.)
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Oil Change Intervals: Change the oil after the first two (2) hours of operation and every 25 hours thereafter
(OHH & OHSK50-130, OHV13.5-17 every 50 hours), or more often if operated under dusty or dirty conditions.
If the engine is run less than 25 hours per year, change the oil at least once per year.
NOTE: The oil filter (if equipped) requires changing every 100 hours or more often if operated under dusty or
dirty conditions.
Oil Check: Check the oil each time the equipment is used or every five (5) hours of operation. Position the
equipment so the engine is level when checking the oil.
CAUTION: Remove the spark plug wire before doing any service work on the engine.
Oil Change Procedure: Locate the oil drain plug. On some units this plug is located below the deck
through the bottom of the mounting flange. Other units drain at the base of the engine above the deck or
frame. On some rotary mower applications, where access to the drain plug is restricted by the equipment, it
may be necessary to drain the oil by tipping the mower in a position that would allow the oil to drain out of the
fill tube.
On units that the drain plug is accessible, remove the plug and allow the oil to drain into a proper receptacle.
Always make sure that drain oil is disposed of properly. Contact your local governing authorities to find
a waste oil disposal site.
Once the oil is drained, reinstall the drain plug and fill the engine with new oil to the proper capacity.
TUNE-UP PROCEDURE:
NOTE: Today's fuels can cause many problems in an engines performance due to the fuels quality and short
shelf life. Always check fuel as a primary cause of poor engine performance.
The following is a minor tune-up procedure. When this procedure is completed, the engine should operate
properly. Further repairs may be necessary if the
engine's performance remains poor.
STANDARD
OHV
CAUTION: Remove the spark plug wire
before doing any service work on the engine.
PLUG
1.
Service or replace the air cleaner. See
Chapter 2 under "Service".
2.
Inspect the level and condition of the oil and
change or add oil as required.
3.
Remove the blower housing and clean all dirt,
grass or debris from the intake screen, head,
cylinder cooling fins, carburetor, governor
levers and linkage.
4.
Make sure the fuel tank, fuel filter and fuel
4
line are clean. Replace any worn or damaged
governor springs or linkage. Make the proper governor adjustments and carburetor presets where
required.
5. When replacing the spark plug, consult the proper parts breakdown for the spark plug to be used
in the engine being serviced. Set the proper spark plug gap (.030") (.762 mm) and install the spark
plug in the engine. Tighten the spark plug to 21 foot pounds (28 Nm) of torque. If a torque wrench
isn’t available, screw the spark plug in as far as possible by hand, and use a spark plug wrench
to turn the spark plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn further if using the old spark plug, or 1/2 turn further if using
a new spark plug.
6. Make sure all ignition wires are free of abrasions or breaks and are properly routed so they will not rub
on the flywheel.
7. Properly reinstall the blower housing, gas tank, fuel line, and air cleaner assembly if removed.
8. Make sure all remote cables are properly adjusted for proper operation. See Chapter 4 under "Speed
Controls and Linkage".
9. Reinstall the spark plug wire, add fuel and oil as necessary, start the engine.
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STORAGE (IF THE ENGINE IS TO BE UNUSED FOR 30 DAYS OR MORE)
CAUTION: NEVER STORE THE ENGINE WITH FUEL IN THE TANK INDOORS OR IN ENCLOSED,
POORLY VENTILATED AREAS, WHERE FUEL FUMES MAY REACH AN OPEN FLAME, SPARK
OR PILOT LIGHT AS ON A FURNACE, WATER HEATER, CLOTHES DRYER OR OTHER GAS
APPLIANCE.
Gasoline can become stale in less than 30 days and form deposits that can impede proper fuel flow and
engine operation. To prevent deposits from forming, all gasoline must be removed from the fuel tank and
the carburetor. An acceptable alternative to removing all gasoline, is by adding Tecumseh's fuel stabilizer,
part number 730245, to the gasoline. Fuel stabilizer is added to the fuel tank or storage container. Always
follow the mix ratio found on the stabilizer container. Run the engine at least 10 minutes after adding
the stabilizer to allow it to reach the carburetor.
Draining the Fuel System
CAUTION: DRAIN THE FUEL INTO AN APPROVED CONTAINER OUTDOORS, AND AWAY FROM
ANY OPEN FLAME OR COMBUSTION SOURCE. BE SURE THE ENGINE IS COOL.
1. Remove all gasoline from the fuel tank by running the engine until the engine stops, or by draining the
fuel tank by removing the fuel line at the carburetor or fuel tank. Be careful not to damage the fuel line,
fittings, or fuel tank.
2. Drain the carburetor by pressing upward on bowl drain (if equipped) which is located on the bottom
of the carburetor bowl. On carburetors without a bowl drain, the carburetor may be drained by loosening
the bowl nut on the bottom carburetor one full turn. Allow to completely drain and retighten the bowl
nut being careful not to damage the bowl gasket when tightening.
3. If "Gasohol" has been used, complete the above procedure and then put one half pint of unleaded
gasoline into the fuel tank and repeat the above procedure. If Gasohol is allowed to remain in the fuel
system during storage, the alcohol content can cause rubber gaskets and seals to deteriorate.
Change Oil: If the oil has not been changed recently, this is a good time to do it. See "Oil Change Procedure"
on page 3.
Oil Cylinder Bore
1. Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground the spark plug wire to the engine. Remove the spark plug
and put a 1/2 ounce (15 ml.) of clean engine oil into spark plug hole.
2. Cover the spark plug hole with a shop towel.
3. Crank the engine over, slowly, several times.
4. Install the spark plug and connect the spark plug wire.
Clean Engine: Remove the blower housing and clean all dirt, grass or debris from the intake screen, head,
cylinder cooling fins, carburetor, governor levers and linkage.
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CHAPTER 2 AIR CLEANERS
GENERAL INFORMATION
The air cleaner is the device used to eliminate dust
and dirt from the air supply. Filtered air is necessary
to assure that abrasive particles are removed before
entering the combustion chamber. Dirt allowed into
the engine will quickly wear the internal components
and shorten the life of the engine.
Tecumseh engines use either a polyurethane or a
paper-type air filter system. A polyurethane precleaner or a flocked screen may be used with the main
filter. Snow King® engines do not use an air filter due
to the clean operating environment and to prevent filter
freeze-up.
COVER
KLEEN-AIRE®
ENTRANCE FROM
UNDER BLOWER
HOUSING
FOAM
ELEMENT
Extremely dirty conditions may require more frequent
filter cleaning or replacement.
OPERATION
The air cleaner cover allows access to the air filter
element(s) and prevents large particles from entering
the filter body. Air is filtered through the pre-cleaner
or flocked screen if equipped, and the polyurethane
or paper filter element. Pre-cleaners or flocked
screens provide more air cleaning capacity.
AIR CLEANER
BODY
In Tecumseh's Kleen Aire® system, air is drawn in
through a rotating screen or recoil housing to be
centrifugally cleaned by the flywheel before the air
enters the air filter.
1
COVER
POLYURETHENE
WRAP
COMPONENTS
The cover holds the filter element and prevents large
debris from entering the filter body.
PAPER
ELEMENT
The polyurethane wrap pre-cleaner is used on XL
or XL/C engine models with paper filter elements.
The paper or polyurethane filter element is the main
filter to trap dust and dirt. Dry-type paper elements
are pleated paper for increased surface area and
rubberized sealing edges. The polyurethane filter uses
an oil film to trap fine particles found in dust.
The flocked screen is used as an additional filter on
XL or XL/C engine models that use a polyurethane
filter element.
FLOCKED SCREEN
AIR CLEANER
BODY
KLEEN-AIRE®
ENTRANCE FROM
UNDER BLOWER
HOUSING
2
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TROUBLESHOOTING OR TESTING
If the engine's performance is unsatisfactory (needs excessive carburetor adjustments, starts smoking
abnormally, loses power), the first engine component to be checked is the air filter. A dirt restricted or an oil
soaked filter will cause noticeable performance problems. A polyurethane filter may be cleaned following the
service procedure listed under "Service" in this chapter. A paper-type air filter should only be replaced. A
paper-type filter cannot have an oil film present on the paper. Follow the procedure listed in the "Service"
section of this chapter for filter replacement or cleaning.
SERVICE
Service on the polyurethane filter element (cleaning and oiling) is recommended every three (3) months or
every twenty five (25) operating hours, whichever comes first. Extremely dirty or dusty conditions may require
daily cleanings.
The paper filter element should be replaced once a year or every 100 operating hours, more often if used in
extremely dusty conditions.
NOTE: NEVER RUN THE ENGINE WITHOUT THE COMPLETE AIR CLEANER ASSEMBLY INSTALLED ON
THE ENGINE. ALWAYS REPLACE THE FILTER ELEMENT WITH THE PROPER TECUMSEH ORIGINAL
REPLACEMENT PART.
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
WING NUTS
1. Unlock the tabs or remove the screws or wing
nuts holding the air cleaner cover in place.
2. Remove the hex nuts holding the element
down if equipped. New nuts are supplied with
a new filter and are to be used for proper
sealing.
COVER
3. Clean the excess contaminants out of the air
cleaner body before removing the old
element.
GASKET
NUTS
FILTER A
(FOAM)
4. Remove the old element and the polyurethane
pre-cleaner if equipped.
5. On air cleaners that use a flocked screen
under the polyurethane element, remove the
air cleaner assembly from the carburetor
before removing the flocked screen. This
prevents dirt from entering the carburetor
(diag 3).
6. Clean the inside of the cover and body,
remove the old gasket between the carburetor
and the air cleaner assembly.
7. Reinstall the air cleaner assembly using a new
gasket.
8. Use reverse procedure for reassembly. When
installing the polyurethane pre-cleaner, make
sure the seam is installed to the outside to
prevent gaps between the paper element and
the pre-cleaner.
FILTER B
KLEEN-AIRE®
ENTRANCE
BODY
COVER
GASKET
FOAM
FILTER
FLOCKED SCREEN
KLEEN-AIRE®
ENTRANCE
GASKET
6
3
Main Menu
Polyurethane-Type Filter Element or pre-cleaner
This type of air filter or pre-cleaner can be serviced when restricted with dust or dirt. Wash the filter or precleaner in a detergent and water solution until all the dirt is removed. Rinse in clear water to remove the
detergent solution. Squeeze the filter or pre-cleaner (do not twist) to remove the excess water. Wrap the filter
or pre-cleaner in a clean cloth and squeeze it (do not twist) until completely dry.
On the polyurethane filter only, re-oil the filter by applying engine oil and squeezing it vigorously to distribute
the oil. Roll the filter in a cloth and squeeze it (do not twist) to remove the excess oil. The pre-cleaner must not
be oiled.
Clean the air cleaner housing and cover being careful not to allow dirt to fall into the carburetor or intake pipe.
Paper -type filter element
Paper type air filter elements can only be serviced by replacement. Do not attempt to clean a paper filter
element. Replacement filters are available at any authorized Tecumseh Service Outlet. Be sure to use new
filter nuts or seals for the air cleaner studs if supplied with the new filter (diag. 5).
Flocked Screen
A flocked screen may be cleaned by blowing compressed air through the screen from the backside. If the
screen cannot be cleaned with this procedure, it should be replaced with a new screen.
COVER
KLEEN-AIRE®
ENTRANCE FROM
UNDER BLOWER
HOUSING
COVER
POLYURETHENE
WRAP
FOAM
ELEMENT
PAPER
ELEMENT
AIR CLEANER
BODY
AIR CLEANER
BODY
FLOCKED SCREEN
4
KLEEN-AIRE®
ENTRANCE FROM
UNDER BLOWER
HOUSING
5
7
Main Menu
CHAPTER 3 CARBURETORS AND FUEL SYSTEMS
GENERAL INFORMATION
Tecumseh overhead valve engines use float type carburetors. Float type carburetors use a hollow float to
maintain the operating level of fuel in the carburetor.
The float type carburetor will have a fuel enrichment system of either a primer or a manual choke to provide
easy cold engine starting. The carburetor fuel mixtures are either fully adjustable, partially adjustable, or
nonadjustable. Carburetor adjustments, cleaning, and related fuel system service is covered in this chapter.
Some Tecumseh engines utilize Walbro carburetors. Basic operation is very similar to the Tecumseh float style
carburetor.
Carburetors used by Tecumseh can be identified by a manufacturing number stamping on the carburetor as
illustrated (diag. 1).
F5
Complete carburetor replacement may be
accomplished by a standard service carburetor. A
standard service carburetor is a basic carburetor that
may require the use of original carburetor parts or
additional new parts to adapt to the specification. An
instruction sheet is provided with the new service
carburetor or see “SERVICE” in this chapter.
ALTERNATE LOCATION
FOR MANUFACTURING
NUMBER
89 4
When servicing carburetors, use the engine model
and specification number to obtain the correct
carburetor part number. An alternate method to find
the correct carburetor part number is to use the
manufacturing number stamped on the carburetor and
convert this number to a service part number. In the
carburetor section of the Master Parts Manual or
Microfiche Catalog, a cross reference chart will
convert a carburetor manufacturing number to a
Tecumseh Service part number.
89
MANUFACTURING
NUMBER
4F5
CARBURETOR
DATE CODE
1
OPERATION
In the “CHOKE” or “START” position, the choke
shutter is closed, and the only air entering the engine
enters through openings around the shutter. As the
starting device is operated to start the engine,
downward piston travel creates a low air pressure area
in the engine cylinder above the piston. Higher
pressure (atmospheric air) rushes into the engine to
fill the created low pressure area. Since the majority
of the air passage is blocked by the choke shutter, a
relatively small quantity of air enters the carburetor
at increased speed. The main nozzle and both idle
fuel discharge ports are supplying fuel due to the low
air pressure in the intake of the engine. A maximum
fuel flow through the carburetor orifices combined with
the reduced quantity of air that passes through the
carburetor, make a very rich fuel mixture which is
needed to start a cold engine.
CHOKE PLATE
FLAT
DOWN
2
At engine IDLE speed, a relatively small amount of
fuel is required to operate the engine. The throttle is
almost completely closed. A fuel / air mixture is supplied through the primary idle-fuel discharge orifice during
idle.
During INTERMEDIATE engine operation, a second orifice is uncovered as the throttle shutter opens, and
more fuel mixture is allowed to atomize with the air flowing into the engine.
During HIGH SPEED engine operation, the throttle shutter is opened. Air flows through the carburetor at high
speed. The venturi, which decreases the size of the air passage through the carburetor, further accelerates
the air flow. This high speed movement of the air decreases the air pressure at the main nozzle opening. Fuel
is forced out the main nozzle opening due the difference in the atmospheric air pressure on the fuel in the
carburetor bowl and the reduced air pressure at the main nozzle opening.
8
Main Menu
For the fuel to flow, the carburetor bowl must be either
vented externally or internally. Some internally
vented float style carburetors use a tygon tube and
a vent within the air intake. This tube must be present
for the carburetor to operate properly (diag. 3).
Air is bled into the main nozzle through the air bleed
located in the air horn. This mixes fuel and air prior
to the fuel leaving the main nozzle. Atomization occurs
as the fuel mixture contacts the fast moving air stream
and the mist flows into the intake of the engine.
TYGON TUBE
EXTERNAL VENT
INTERNAL VENT
3
FUEL PRIMERS
Primers may be mounted remotely or as an integral
part of the carburetor. The basic function of the primer
is to supply an air pressure charge to the carburetor
main well or carburetor bowl to displace fuel directly
into the carburetor venturi. This displaced fuel
provides a rich mixture necessary for engines to start
easily on the first or second attempt (diag. 4 & 5).
PRIMER BULB
PRIMER BULB
VENT
Primers must be vented either internally through a
passage in the carburetor air horn prior to the venturi
or externally through a hole in the primer bulb. The
vent allows atmospheric air to enter the fuel bowl
during operation and to fill the primer bulb after the
primer bulb is released.
MAIN NOZZLE
4
IMPULSE FUEL PUMPS
VALVE CLOSED
ATMOSPHERIC
VENT
VALVE OPEN
DIAPHRAGM
FILTER
AIR BLEED
VALVE CLOSED
VALVE OPEN
PULSE LINE
TO CRANKCASE
FUEL SUPPLY
êCRANKCASE PRESSURE
PRESSURE ACTING
á ATMOSPHERIC
ON DAMPING DIAPHRAGM
á FUEL FLOW
SUCTION AND
ê CRANKCASE
FLOW DIRECTION
á
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE
ACTING ON DAMPING
DIAPHRAGM
FUEL FLOW DIRECTION
á SUCTION
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE
ê CAUSED FUEL FLOW
IDLE AIR
BLEED
FLOAT STYLE CARBURETORS
A float is used to maintain the operating level of fuel
in the carburetor bowl. As the fuel is used by the
engine, the fuel level in the carburetor bowl drops and
the float moves downward. This allows the inlet needle
valve to move off the sealing seat. Fuel flows by gravity
or a pulse pump into the fuel bowl. As the fuel level in
the bowl again rises, it raises the float. This upward
float motion moves the inlet needle valve to the closed
position. When the needle contacts the seat, the fuel
flow is stopped. The tapered end of the inlet needle
varies the fuel flow rate and the fuel level in the
carburetor bowl remains constant (diag. 7). The float
height is set according to the service procedure.
5
CARBURETOR
FITTING
Impulse fuel pumps may either be mounted externally
onto the carburetor fuel inlet or remotely mounted.
This pump is connected in the fuel line between the
fuel supply and the carburetor or directly to the fuel
inlet.
Impulse fuel pumps are operated by crankcase
impulses created by the up and down movement of
the piston. A hose called a pulse line connects the
fuel pump diaphragm chamber to the crankcase and
transmits the impulses to the pump diaphragm. The
impulses actuate the diaphragm and flap valves to lift
the fuel from the fuel tank to the carburetor (diag. 6).
A crankcase overfilled with engine oil can affect pump
operation.
MAIN JET
6
MAIN AIR
BLEED
CHOKE
SHUTTER
THROTTLE
SHUTTER
IDLE
ADJUSTMENT
INLET NEEDLE
AND SEAT
FLOAT
MAIN NOZZLE
MAIN
ADJUSTMENT
7
9
Main Menu
CARBURETOR VISUAL IDENTIFICATION
Series1 Carburetors
Series 1 carburetors are used on some 4 - 7 model
overhead valve engines. This float style carburetor
has a smaller venturi than the Series 3 or 4 carburetor
and has no bosses on each side of the idle mixture
screw. The main and idle mixture may be fixed or
adjustable. A remote primer or choke may also be
used with this carburetor (diag. 8).
8
Series 3 & Series 4 Carburetors
Series 3 or 4 carburetors are generally used on 8
through 14 model 4-cycle engines. The quickest way
to identify these carburetors is by the presence of
bosses on each side of the idle mixture screw (diag.
9).
To determine whether the carburetor is a Series 3 or
Series 4, look at the throttle end of the carburetor.
Series 3 will have one throttle plate screw (diag. 10).
The Series 4 will have two throttle plate screws (diag.
11).
10
9
11
Series 6 Carburetors
Series 6 carburetors are used on 2 and 4-cycle
engines in the 3 to 6 model range. Series 6 uses a
simple fixed idle and fixed main fuel circuit. Series 6
carburetors are commonly used on rotary mower
applications. Series 6 are nonadjustable, with a
stepped primer bulb and a bowl prime system (diag.
12).
12
Series 7
Series 7 carburetors are totally nonadjustable. The
die cast carburetor body is similar in appearance
and slightly longer than the Walbro LMK body. The
choke shaft is made of a plastic material with an
internal slot to hold the choke shutter. The carburetor
base is flat to accept a Vector style bowl that is held
on with a wire bail. (diag. 13)
13
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Main Menu
Series 8
Series 8 carburetors have both a fixed main and a
fixed idle circuit. These carburetors are totally
nonadjustable. This series of carburetor uses an
integral primer system like the Series 6. Distinguish
this carburetor from the Series 6 by the fixed idle jet
that appears as a screw just above the bowl on the
primer side. This fixed idle jet may also be capped.
(diag. 14)
CAPPED FIXED
IDLE JET
CAP
14
Series 9
Series 9 carburetors are hybrid versions of the
Series 8. This carburetor uses a fixed idle jet and fixed
main fuel circuit. This carburetor is totally
nonadjustable. The bowl nut uses a ball plug on the
bottom to cover the center drilling. Also visible is a
plastic main fuel discharge nozzle in the venturi. The
Idle mixing well and jet will be visible but not machined
(diag. 15)
MIXING WELL
CAST BUT NOT
MACHINED
IDLE JET
CAST BUT NOT
MACHINED
15
CHOKE PLATE
Series 10
This carburetor is for use on all season engine
applications. It is the equivalent of the series "8" with
the addition of a choke. It has a fixed main and idle
with a serviceable main nozzle and a primer assist,
with the added benefit of a choke for cold weather
starting.
FLAT SIDE DOWN
15
Walbro Model LMK
OHV 15-17 models use this float-feed carburetor. The
carburetor is attached to the intake pipe using studs
that also fasten the air filter body. Walbro model and
manufacturing numbers are found on the throttle end
of the carburetor. This carburetor has a fixed,
nonadjustable main mixture jet.
Idle mixture screws were adjustable on early
production OHV15. This has since changed to a fixed
idle jet which may be capped for tamper resistance.
LOW IDLE
MIXTURE SCREW
MAY BE ADJUSTABLE OR FIXED
16
If no spring is visible, the jet is fixed. Servicing should
be done by a Authorized Tecumseh Dealer.
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Main Menu
TESTING
1. After repeated efforts to start the engine using the procedure listed in the operator’s manual fail, check
for spark by removing the high tension lead and removing the spark plug. Install a commercially available
spark tester and check for spark. If the spark is bright blue and consistent, proceed to step 2. If no or
irregular spark see Chapter 8 under "Testing".
2. Visually inspect the removed spark plug for a wet condition indicating the presence of gasoline in the
cylinder.
STANDARD
OHV
NOTE: Check plug for correct reach (diag.
17).
PLUG
3. If the spark plug is dry, check for restrictions
in the fuel system before the carburetor. If the
spark plug is wet, continue with step # 7.
CHECK THE FUEL CAP FOR PROPER
VENTING. With a proper draining receptacle,
remove the fuel line clamp on the carburetor
fuel inlet and pull the fuel line off the fitting.
Examine the fuel flow with the fuel cap both
on and off the fuel tank.
17
CAUTION: DRAIN THE FUEL INTO AN
APPROVED CONTAINER OUTDOORS, AND AWAY FROM ANY OPEN FLAME OR COMBUSTION
SOURCE. BE SURE THE ENGINE IS COOL.
NOTE: Todays fuels can cause many problems in an engines performance, due to the fuels quality
and short shelf life. Always check fuel as a primary cause of engine performance.
4. Remove the air filter, heater box, or air cleaner assembly if applicable to visually check that the choke
shutter completely closes or check to see if fuel comes out of the main nozzle during priming.
5. If the fuel flow from the tank is adequate and no fuel is evident during priming, the carburetor will need
to be removed for service. See “Service” in this chapter or consult the “Carburetion Troubleshooting”
chart to diagnose carburetor symptoms. Improper fuel flow indicates the fuel, fuel line, filter or tank
require cleaning or replacement.
6. Check the engine compression using a commercially available compression tester and follow the
tester’s recommended procedure. Low compression, a dry spark plug, adequate fuel flow, and a known
good functional carburetor indicates an internal engine problem exists. See Chapter 9 under
“Troubleshooting.”
7. A wet spark plug indicates fuel is being supplied by the carburetor. The engine may be flooded by
a restricted air filter, carbon shorted or defective spark plug, excessive choking or over priming,
improperly adjusted or defective carburetor. With the spark plug removed and a shop towel over
the spark plug hole, turn the engine over slowly 3 or 4 times to remove excess gasoline from the
engine cylinder.
CAUTION: KEEP ALL COMBUSTIVE SOURCES AWAY. AVOID THE SPRAY FROM THE SPARK
PLUG HOLE WHEN CRANKING THE ENGINE OVER.
8. Replace the air filter if restricted or oil soaked. Replace the spark plug if questionable. Install the spark
plug and high tension lead and try to start the engine.
9. If the engine floods and fails to start, the carburetor will require service. See the proceeding “Carburetion
Troubleshooting” chart for additional causes. If the carburetor is functioning properly the problem may
be ignition timing related. See Chapter 8 “Ignition” under “Troubleshooting.”
SERVICE
Carburetor Pre-sets and Adjustments
Before adjusting any mixture screws the necessary carburetor presets should be made. Check for the proper
governor adjustments as outlined in Chapter 4. Identify the correct carburetor model and manufacturer to find
locations of the high and low speed adjustment screws. Check the throttle control bracket for proper adjustment
allowing a full choke shutter position. See Chapter 4 under "Speed Controls and Linkage". Check to see if the
normal maintenance procedures have been performed (oil changed, fresh fuel, air filter replaced or clean).
Consult microfiche card #30 to find the correct R.P.M. settings for the engine. Start the engine and allow it to
warm to operating temperature. The carburetor can now be adjusted.
NOTE: RPM SETTINGS CAN ALSO BE FOUND ON THE COMPUTERIZED PARTS LOOK UP SYSTEMS.
12
Main Menu
Pre-sets and Adjustments (Tecumseh and
Walbro carburetors)
Tecumseh Carburetors
Turn both the main and idle mixture adjusting screws
in (clockwise) until finger tight if applicable.
NOTE: OVERTIGHTENING WILL DAMAGE THE
TAPERED PORTION OF THE NEEDLE.
Now back the mixture screws out (counterclockwise)
to obtain the pre-set figure in the chart shown.
NOTE: SOME CARBURETORS HAVE FIXED IDLE
AND MAIN JETS. IDENTIFY THE SERIES OF
CARBURETOR USING THE VISUAL IDENTIFICATION IN THIS CHAPTER. IDLE MIXTURE
FIXED JETS APPEAR AS ADJUSTING SCREWS
WITHOUT TENSION SPRINGS AND ARE NOT
ADJUSTABLE.
Engine Model
Main Pre-set Idle Pre-set
All models with
float-type carburetors 1-1/2 turn
1 turn
All models with
diaphragm-type
carburetors
1 turn
1 turn
Walbro Carburetors
Carburetor Model
LMK
Fixed
1 turn if
adjustable
or seated,
if fixed
Final Adjustments
Start the engine and allow it to warm up to normal operating temperature (3 - 5 minutes). Set the speed control
to the HIGH or FAST position, then turn the main mixture adjustment screw in (clockwise) slowly until the
engine begins to run erratic. Note the position of the screw. Now, turn the screw out (counterclockwise) until
the engine begins to run erratic. Turn the screw in (clockwise) midway between these two positions. This will
be the best setting.
Set the speed control to the IDLE or SLOW position. Adjust the idle mixture screw following the same procedure
used to adjust the main mixture adjustment screw.
Identify the location of both HIGH and LOW speed adjustments, then locate the recommended HIGH and
LOW R.P.M. setting according to microfiche card # 30 and adjust the engine speed accordingly.
NOTE: RPM SETTINGS CAN ALSO BE FOUND ON THE COMPUTERIZED PARTS LOOK UP SYSTEMS.
TECUMSEH CARBURETORS
DUAL SYSTEM / SERIES "6"
NON-ADJUSTABLE
PRIMER NO CHOKE
SERIES "7"
18
SERIES "3" & "4"
FIXED HIGH AND LOW SPEED
MIXTURE
19
IDLE MIXTURE
SCREW
MAIN
MIXTURE
SCREW
20
WALBRO
CARBURETOR
SERIES "8"
SERIES "9"
SERIES "10"
WALBRO LMK
CAPPED
FIXED
IDLE JET
NON-ADJUSTABLE
(ADJUSTABLE MAIN FOR
EXPORT)
21
NON-ADJUSTABLE
22
23
24
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Main Menu
If further adjustment is required, the main adjustment should be made under a load condition.
If the engine stops or hesitates while engaging the load (lean), turn the main mixture adjusting screw out
(counterclockwise) 1/8 turn at a time, testing each setting with the equipment under load, until this condition is
corrected. A few Tecumseh carburetors were built as air adjust idle system. If you have one, the adjustments
are reversed out for lean in for richer.
If the engine smokes excessively (rich), turn the main adjusting screw in (clockwise) 1/8 turn at a time, testing
each setting with the equipment under load, until this condition is corrected.
After the main mixture screw is set, move the speed control to the IDLE or SLOW position. If the engine does
not idle smoothly, turn the idle mixture screw 1/8 turn either in (clockwise) or out (counterclockwise) until
engine idles smoothly.
Recheck the high and low R.P.M. setting and adjust as necessary.
CARBURETOR DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
NOTE : CARBURETORS THAT ARE EMISSION COMPLIANT (MANUFACTURING NUMBERS 5000 OR
GREATER) WITH FIXED IDLE OR MAIN JETS ARE TO BE REMOVED BY DEALERS ONLY FOR INSPECTION
AND CLEANING.
1. Note or mark the high and low mixture adjusting screws to aid in reassembly (if applicable). Remove
the high speed mixture screw, bowl nut, and float bowl. Remove the idle mixture screw assembly. On
Series 7 carburetors, release the wire retainer that retains the bowl and remove the bowl assembly. If
a screwdriver or similar tool is used to release the retainer, carefully move the retainer to prevent
bending of the wire.
2. Series 8 carburetors have a tamper resistant cap, over the fixed idle jet. (diag. 21). The cap is removed
by piercing it with an ice pick or similar instrument, then remove the jet for service, always replace the
cap.
3. Note the position of the spring clip on the inlet needle and float. Remove the float hinge pin with a
needlenose pliers. Some carburetors use a float dampening spring to aid the inlet valve to maintain a
steady position in rough service applications. Note the position of the hooks before removing the float
hinge pin (diag. 25). On Series 7 carburetors, grasp the crossbrace on the float with a needlenose
pliers and pull straight out to release the float hinge pin.
4. Remove the float, clip, and inlet needle.
5. Remove the inlet needle seat using a wire or a paper clip with a 3/32" (2.38 mm) hook end (Tecumseh
carburetors only, Walbro model LMK uses a non-serviceable seat). Push the hook through the hole in
the center of the seat and pull out to remove it.
6. On Series 7 only, remove the main nozzle tube, "O" ring, and spring located in the center leg of the
carburetor bowl. Remove the bowl drain screw and gasket. Remove the spring, metering jet, and "O"
ring.
7. Note or mark the action of the choke and throttle shutters and the hook points of the choke or throttle
return spring or seal retainer springs located on the top of the choke or throttle shaft.
NOTE: MARK THE EDGES OF THE THROTTLE AND CHOKE SHUTTERS PRIOR TO DISASSEMBLY.
THE SHUTTERS HAVE BEVELED EDGES AND MUST BE INSTALLED IN THE ORIGINAL POSITION.
Remove the throttle shutter, throttle shaft, choke shutter, springs and choke shaft by removing the
screw or screws that attach the throttle or choke shutter to the shaft inside the air horn. To remove the
choke shaft assembly on Series 7 or Walbro LMK carburetors, grasp the choke shutter with a pliers
and pull it through the slot in the choke shaft. Slide the choke shaft out of the carburetor body.
3/32"
(2.38 mm)
LONG END
OF CLIP
CLIP
OPEN END
OF CLIP
THROTTLE
END
CHOKE
END
14
25
26
27
Main Menu
8. Remove the primer bulb (if equipped) by
grasping with a pliers and pulling and twisting
out of the body. Remove the retainer by prying
and lifting out with a screwdriver. Do not reuse old bulb or retainer (diag. 28).
9. Remove all welch plugs if cleaning the
carburetor. Secure the carburetor in a vise
equipped with protective jaws. Use a small
chisel sharpened to a 1/8" (3.175 mm) wide
wedge point. Drive the chisel into the plug to
pierce the metal and push down on the chisel
to pry the plug out of the hole (diag. 29).
NOTE: DO NOT REMOVE ANY BALL OR CUP PLUGS (diag. 29).
28
10. Note the direction of the inlet fitting. If necessary the inlet fitting can be removed by pulling with a pliers
or vise, do not twist. The fitting must be replaced. Tap a 1/4-20 thread inside the metal shank, use
1/4"-20 bolt and nut inserted into a 1/4" (6.350 mm) flat washer and 1/2" (12.700 mm) nut, thread the
bolt into the shank, and thread the nut down to pull out the shank.
11. The Walbro LMK carburetor main fuel jet can be removed only if the jet is damaged or if a high altitude
jet is needed to be installed. To remove place the carburetor firmly in a soft jawed vice. Using a punch
the same size or slightly smaller than the jet, drive the jet through and into the center leg. Insert the
high altitude jet in the same hole. Using a punch slightly larger than the diameter of the new jet, tap it
into place flush with the outside of the center leg casting (diag. 31).
SMALL
CHISEL
PRY OUT
PLUG
WALBRO LMK SERIES
DO NOT REMOVE PLUGS ATMOSPHERIC
PIERCE PLUG
BRASS OR BALL PLUG
VENT
WITH TIP
WELCH PLUG TO
BE REMOVED
DO NOT ALLOW
CHISEL POINT
ABOUT 1/8"
TO STRIKE
(3.175 mm)
CARBURETOR
WIDE
BODY OR
CHANNEL
SMALL CHISEL
REDUCER
29
BALL PLUG IDLE FUEL PASSAGE
REDUCTION ROD INSIDE
30
31
HIGH SPEED JET
Impulse Fuel Pump
The valve type impulse pump can be serviced using
the following procedure.
11
1. Remove the old filter on the back of the pump
body if applicable.
1
10
2. Note or mark the pump body alignment, remove
the four screws and disassemble the pump.
4
3. Remove the gaskets, diaphragms, old valves
and spring bearing from the spring.
7
4. Clean the body parts with solvent.
11
5. Install new valves with the face of the valve
facing the raised portion of the passage. After
installation, cut off the extended portion of the
valves.
6. Install the diaphragms against the center portion
of the body with the gaskets against the outside
covers. The parts can only can be assembled
one way without damage.
7. Install the spring bearing on the new spring and
place into position.
8. Assemble the body sections, install the retaining
screws, and torque the screws to 12 - 16 inch
pounds (1.36 - 1.81 Nm).
9. Install new filter in pump cavity if applicable.
5
2
8
1 - Body, Impluse
2 - Body, Pump
3 - Cover, Pump
4 - Bearing, Spring
5 - *Valve, Check (2)
6 - *Gasket, Pump Cover
7 - *Diaphragm, Pump (2)
9 - Screw, 1-1/4" (4)
10 - *Spring, Pressure
11 - *Filter, Air
6
3
9
32
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Main Menu
FLOAT ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
All Tecumseh carburetors with an adjustable float
require the correct float height to achieve the proper
operation and easy engine starts. To check the float
setting, hold the carburetor in an upside down position.
Remove the bowl nut, float bowl, and "O" ring. Place
an 11/64" (4.36mm) diameter drill bit across the top
of the carburetor casting on the opposite side and
parallel to the float hinge pin. The float must just touch
the drill bit when the bit is flush with the edge of the
float. If the float is too high or too low, adjust the height
by bending the tab accordingly. If the required
adjustment is minor, the tab adjustment may be made
without removing the float and carefully inserting a
small bladed screwdriver to bend the tab.
FLOAT
FLOAT HINGE
AND AXLE
FLOAT
SETTING
11 / 64" (4.36 mm)
ADJUSTING TAB
INLET NEEDLE
AND SEAT
33
If float sticking occurs due to deposits, or when the fuel tank is filled for the first time, this condition can be
quickly corrected by loosening the carburetor bowl nut one full turn. Turn the bowl 1/4 inch in either direction,
then return the bowl to its original position and tighten the bowl nut.
THE TECUMSEH SERIES 7 AND THE WALBRO MODEL LMK CARBURETOR HAVE A FIXED AND
NONADJUSTABLE FLOAT HEIGHT.
Inspection
After careful disassembly of the carburetor and the removal of all non metallic parts, all metallic parts should
be cleaned with solvent, or commercial carburetor cleaner, no longer than 30 minutes. Wearing eye protection,
use compressed air and soft tag wire or monofilament fishing line to clean internal carburetor passages. To
perform a proper carburetor rebuild, the welch plugs must be removed to expose the drilled passages.
Throttle and Choke
Examine the throttle and choke shaft, and carburetor body at the bearing points and holes into which the
linkage is fastened, and replace if worn or damaged. Any excessive wear in these areas can cause dirt to
enter the engine and cause premature wear. If dust seals are present, check the seal condition and the correct
placement next to the carburetor body.
Idle and High Speed Mixture Adjusting Screw
Examine the idle mixture needle tip and tapered
surface for damage. The tip and tapered surface of
the needle must not show any wear or damage. If
either is worn or damaged, replace the adjusting
needle. Tension is maintained on the screw with a
coil spring. Replace the “O” ring seal if removed (diag.
34).
Examine the tapered surface of the high speed mixture
needle. If the tapered surface is damaged or shows
wear, replace the needle.
RETAINER NUT
"O" RING
BRASS WASHER
SPRING
HIGH SPEED
ADJUSTMENT
SCREW
34
Fuel Bowl Retaining Nut
The bowl nut contains the passage through which fuel
is delivered to the high speed and idle fuel system of
the carburetor. If a problem occurs with the idle system
of the carburetor, examine the small fuel passage in
the annular groove in the bowl nut. This passage must
be clean for the proper transfer of fuel into the idle
metering system.
Bowl nuts that are used on adjustable main, float style
carburetors may use either one or two metering ports.
This difference relates to calibration changes of the
carburetor, depending on the application (diag. 35).
NOTE: DO NOT INTERCHANGE BOWL NUTS.
The fuel inlet ports must be free of any debris to allow
proper fuel flow.
16
IDLE FUEL
FUELTRANSFER
INLET
FUELPASSAGE
METERING
PORT
ONE-HOLE TYPE
TW0-HOLE TYPE
35
Main Menu
Fuel Bowl, Float, Needle and Seat
NOTE: To prevent damage to the float bowl on Series 7 carburetor, pull straight up with a needle nose pliers in
the pocket closest to the main fuel well (diag. 37).
The float bowl must be free of dirt and corrosion. Clean the bowl with solvent or carburetor cleaner (soak 30
minutes or less).
Examine the float for cracks or leaks. Check the float hinge bearing surfaces for wear, as well as the tab that
contacts the inlet needle. Replace any damaged or worn parts.
The needle and seat should be replaced if any fuel delivery problems are experienced (flooding or starvation).
Sealing problems with the inlet needle seat may not be visible and replacement is recommended. Only the
inlet needle is serviceable on the Walbro model LMK carburetor.
FLOAT HINGE
PIN
SEAT
NEEDLE
FLOAT
NEEDLE &
SEAT
SPRING CLIP
MAIN NOZZLE
EMULSION
SEAT
RETAINING
RING
HINGE PIN
"O" RING
"O" RING
POSITIONED IN
GROOVE
NOZZLE
SPRING
IDLE RESTRICTION
"O" RING
BOWL
POSITIONED IN
GROOVE
'O' RING
MAIN JET
MAIN JET
SPRING
BOWL
WASHER
GASKET
BOWL RETAINER
SERIES 7
JET/BOWL NUT
BOWL DRAIN
37
36
SERIES 8, 9 & 10
THROTTLE SHAFT & LEVER
CHOKE SHAFT
THROTTLE SHAFT
CHOKE DUST
SEAL
CHOKE RETURN
SPRING
38
THROTTLE SHUTTER
THROTTLE DUST SEAL
THROTTLE RETURN SPRING
IDLE SPEED SCREW
WELCH PLUG
CHOKE
SHUTTER
IDLE MIXTURE
SCREW
THROTTLE RETURN SPRING
DUST SEAL WASHER
DUST SEAL
THROTTLE
SHUTTER
SCREW
PRIMER BULB/
RETAINER
RING
FUEL FITTING
TENSION SPRING
THROTTLE SHUTTER
SCREW
INLET NEEDLE
SEAT AND CLIP INLET
NEEDLE
SPRING CLIP
ATMOSPHERIC VENT
WELCH PLUG
FLOAT SHAFT
FLOAT
"O" RING
PRIMER BULB
FILTER
FUEL FITTING
FLOAT SHAFT
FLOAT
"O" RING
FLOAT BOWL
FLOAT BOWL
BOWL NUT WASHER
HIGH SPEED BOWL NUT
BOWL NUT WASHER
BOWL NUT
WALBRO LMK
39
SERIES 6
40
17
Main Menu
ASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
Welch Plugs
To install a new welch plug after cleaning the
carburetor, secure the carburetor in a vise equipped
with protective jaws. Place the welch plug into the
receptacle with the raised portion up. With a punch
equal to the size of the plug hole, merely flatten the
plug. Do not dent or drive the center of the plug below
the top surface of the carburetor. After installation of
the welch plug, seal the outer diameter with fingernail
polish (diag. 41).
Throttle Shaft and Plate
When reassembling Tecumseh or Walbro carburetors,
it is important that the lines, lettering, or numbers on
the throttle plate are facing out when in the closed
position. If the throttle plate has only one line, this
line should be positioned in the 3 o’clock position on
Series 3, 4, and 7 carburetors, and at the 12 o'clock
position on Series 1, 6, 8, 9 carburetors. (diag. 42 &
43).
FLAT END PUNCH
NEW WELCH PLUG
SAME OR
LARGER
DIAMETER OF
PLUG HOLE
41
THROTTLE
PLATE
THROTTLE
LEVER
TWELVE
O'CLOCK
POSITION
42
Test the operation of the throttle and return spring if
equipped. If binding occurs, correct by loosening the
screws and repositioning throttle plate.
THREE
O'CLOCK
POSITION
Always use a new screw(s) when reinstalling the
throttle shutter to prevent the screws from loosening
and being drawn into the engine. New Tecumseh
screws are treated with dry-type adhesive to secure
them in place.
43
NOTE: NEVER REUSE OLD SCREWS.
On Walbro LMK and Series 7 carburetors, install the
throttle return spring on the throttle shaft with the
squared end up. Slide the foam dust seal over the
spring. Insert the throttle lever assembly into the
carburetor body with both tangs of the return spring
on the left side of the center boss (viewed from throttle
end) and the flat side of the shaft toward the carburetor
mounting flange. Install the throttle shutter to the
throttle shaft using notes or marks to place the shutter
as originally found (Series 7 must have the line on the
shutter at the 3 o'clock position) (diag. 44).
Always use new throttle shutter screws when
reinstalling. Install the screws so they are slightly
loose. Apply light downward pressure on the throttle
shaft and rotate it clockwise to seat the throttle shutter
in the bore, then tighten the throttle shutter screws.
Check for binding by rotating the throttle shaft. If
necessary, adjust the throttle shutter by loosening and
repositioning the shutter, then retighten the screws
(diag. 45).
DUST SEALS
SERIES 7
THROTTLE LEVER
THROTTLE PLATE
WALBRO LMK SERIES
18
44
45
Main Menu
Choke Shaft and Plate
The choke plate is inserted into the air horn of the
carburetor in such a position that the flat surface (if
applicable) of the choke is down. Choke plates will
operate in either direction. Make sure it is assembled
properly for the engine. Test the operation of the choke
and return spring function if equipped (diag. 46).
CHOKE PLATE
Always use a new screw(s) when reinstalling the
choke shutter as the screws are treated with dry-type
adhesive to secure them in place.
The choke shaft and plate must be in the closed
position prior to tightening the screws. Hard starting
may be due to insufficient choking action because of
a misaligned choke plate. Correct by readjusting the
choke plate to close completely. Note the cutout
position of choke shutter if applicable.
On Walbro LMK and Series 7 carburetors, install the
choke return spring on the choke shaft with the
squared end up and hooked into the notch in the plate.
Work the dust shield up around the spring and insert
the choke shaft into the carburetor body. Rotate the
shaft counterclockwise until the tang on the spring
rests against the left side of the center boss on the
carburetor body (viewed from choke end) . Rotate the
choke shaft approximately 1/4 turn counterclockwise
and insert the choke shutter into the slot in the choke
shaft. Make sure the tabs on the shutter lock the choke
shaft between them. Rotate the shaft and check for
binding, the choke must return to the open position
when released (diag. 47).
46
FLAT DOWN
NOTE: NEVER REUSE OLD SCREWS.
SPRING
HOOKUPS
Þ
47
PRESS IN PARTIALLY
THEN APPLY
LOCTITE
SOME INLET FITTINGS
STRAINER
Fuel Inlet Fitting
When installing the fitting, insert the tip into the
carburetor body. Support the carburetor body with a
wood block to avoid damage to other parts. Use a
bench vise or press to install the fitting squarely. Press
it in until it bottoms out (diag. 48).
48
RETAINER NUT
Some carburetors may have a fixed main mixture or
both a fixed idle mixture and main mixture, and are
not adjustable.
On Series 7carburetors, place the main nozzle spring
into the main nozzle cavity. Apply oil to the main nozzle
"O" ring and push the main nozzle into the cavity
with the "O" ring end in first.
Next install the "O" ring in the main jet cavity. Place
the spring over the shoulder on the main jet and push
the jet into the cavity with the main jet toward the "O"
ring. Place a new gasket on the drain screw and
tighten in position (diag. 50).
On Walbro LMK carburetors, the main jet can be
replaced by pressing it into the center leg of the
carburetor until flush. (diag. 31 page 15).
NOTE: FOR HIGH ALTITUDE JETTING, CONSULT
BULLETIN 110.
BRASS WASHER
SPRING
High and Low Speed Adjusting Screw, Main
Nozzle
When reassembling, position the coil spring on the
adjusting screws, followed by the small brass washer
and the “O” ring seal. Turn the high speed adjustment
screw into the bowl nut and the low speed mixture
screw into the carburetor body (diag. 49).
"O" RING
HIGH SPEED
ADJUSTMENT
SCREW
49
FLOAT HINGE PIN
NEEDLE &
SEAT
SEAT RETAINING
RING
FLOAT
MAIN NOZZLE EMULSION
"O" RING
POSITIONED IN
GROOVE
SPRING
IDLE RESTRICTION
BOWL
"O" RING
MAIN JET
MAIN JET SPRING
GASKET
BOWL
DRAIN
BOWL RETAINER
50
19
Main Menu
Inlet Needle and Seat
Make sure the seat cavity is clean. Moisten the seat
with oil and insert the seat with the grooved side down
and away from the inlet needle. Press the seat into
the cavity using a 5/32" (3.969 mm) flat punch, making
sure it is firmly seated (diag. 51). On Series "7"
carburetors, install the seat retainer into the cavity
and push it down using the flat punch until it contacts
the seat.
PUSH IN UNTIL
SEAT RESTS ON
BODY SHOULDER
5/32" (3.969 mm)
FLAT PUNCH
IF YOUR CARBURETOR
HAS A STEEL SEAT
RETAINING RING
RE-INTSALL AFTER
SEAT INSTALLATION
SEAT
INSERT THIS
FACE FIRST
INLET NEEDLE
SEATS AT THIS
POINT
The inlet needle hooks onto the float tab by means of
a spring clip. To prevent binding, the long, straight
end of the clip should face the choke or air filter end
of the carburetor as shown (diag. 52).
51
CLIP
OPEN END OF CLIP
LONG END
OF CLIP
Points toward choke
end
THROTTLE
END
CHOKE
END
52
Float Installation
On Series 7 carburetors, slide the hinge pin into the
hinge on the float. Position the needle into the fuel
inlet and snap the float pin into the tabs on the float
bowl. Float height is not adjustable.
On Series 7 carburetors and the Walbro LMK, reinstall
the inlet needle on to the float and place it into the
carburetor (diag. 53).
SERIES 7
WALBRO / LMK
53
1. When rebuilding a carburetor with a clip on
the needle, position carburetor float side up
for assembly.
2. Place the inlet needle and spring clip onto
the float as shown. The long end of the spring
clip must point towards the choke end of the
carburetor. This will ensure that the inlet
needle will move up and down in a straight
line (diag. 53).
3. To set the proper float height on carburetors
except Series 7 and Walbro LMK, see
adjusting procedure.
4. Some Tecumseh float style carburetors have
a damper spring which is installed as shown
in diag. 55.
CLIP
OPEN END
OF CLIP
LONG END
OF CLIP
Points toward choke end
54
POINTS TOWARD
THE CHOKE END
55
20
Main Menu
Fuel Bowl And Bowl Nut
Whenever a carburetor bowl is removed for service,
the fuel bowl “O” ring (or gasket on Series "7") and
the bowl nut washer must be replaced. For easier
installation, lubricate the “O” ring with a small amount
oil.
DETENT
Installing the Float Bowl
Install the float bowl by placing the detent portion
opposite of the hinge pin. Make sure the deepest
end of the bowl is opposite of the inlet needle. The
bowl has a small dimple located in the deepest part.
The purpose of this dimple is to minimize the chances
of the float sticking to the bottom of the bowl caused
by stale fuel.
56
CARBURETOR
FITTING
Impulse Fuel Pump
The diaphragms must be installed against the center
body with the gaskets against the outside covers. The
parts are designed so they cannot be misassembled
without damage (diag. 57).
To test the unit, assemble the carburetor to the engine,
leaving the fuel line from the pump off. Use a different
fuel tank remotely placed above the carburetor to
provide gravity fuel flow to the carburetor inlet to run
the engine while testing the pump. Make sure fuel is
available in both fuel tanks and the original fuel tank's
fuel line is connected to the fuel pump inlet. Place the
pump outlet line in a proper draining receptacle. With
the pulse line connected from the engine crankcase
to the pump and the engine running, a definite fuel
flow should result at the pump outlet.
VALVE CLOSED
ATMOSPHERIC
VENT
VALVE OPEN
DIAPHRAGM
FILTER
AIR BLEED
VALVE OPEN
FUEL SUPPLY
ê CRANKCASE PRESSURE
PRESSURE ACTING
á ATMOSPHERIC
ON DAMPING DIAPHRAGM
á FUEL FLOW
SUCTION AND
ê CRANKCASE
FLOW DIRECTION
á
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE
ACTING ON DAMPING
DIAPHRAGM
VALVE CLOSED
PULSE LINE
TO CRANKCASE
FUEL FLOW DIRECTION
á SUCTION
ATMOSPHERIC PRESSURE
ê CAUSED FUEL FLOW
57
If the flow is erratic or intermittent, the pump needs
repair or replacement.
Primer Bulb
To install, start the retainer and bulb into the casting
with the retainer tabs pointed out. Firmly push the
bulb and retainer into position using a 3/4'’ (19.05 mm)
deep well socket (diag. 58).
Final Checks
Before reinstalling a newly overhauled carburetor, preset the main mixture adjustment screw, the idle
mixture adjustment screw and the idle speed
adjustment screw. See “Pre-sets and Adjustments”
in this chapter.
58
21
Main Menu
CHAPTER 4 GOVERNORS AND LINKAGE
GENERAL INFORMATION
Tecumseh 4 cycle engines are equipped with mechanical type governors. The governor’s function is to maintain
a R.P.M. setting when engine loads are added or taken away. Mechanical type governors are driven off the
engine’s camshaft gear. The governor follower arm rests on the center of the governor spool on center force
governors, and off to one side on other governor systems. Changes in engine R.P.M. cause the governor lever
to move the solid link that is connected from the governor lever to the throttle in the carburetor. The throttle is
opened when the engine R.P.M. drops and is closed as an engine load is removed.
This chapter includes governor assembly linkage illustrations to aid in governor or speed control assembly.
OPERATION
As the speed of an engine increases, the governor
weights on the governor gear move outward by
centrifugal force. The shape of the governor weights
force the governor spool to lift. The governor rod
maintains contact with the governor spool due to the
governor spring tension. The governor rod rotates
causing the attached outer governor lever to push the
solid link and close the throttle opening. When the
engine speed decreases, the lower centrifugal force
allows the governor weights to be pulled in by the
governor spring. The governor rod rotates and the
solid link moves the throttle to a more open position
(diag. 1).
SPRING
THROTTLE
GOVERNOR SHAFT
WEIGHTS
GOVERNOR
SPOOL
GOVERNOR GEAR
1
TROUBLESHOOTING
Engine operation problems where the governor is suspected to be the cause may actually be the result of
other engine system failures. Hunting (engine R.P.M. surging up and down) indicates that the engine is incapable
of maintaining a constant R.P.M. with or without an engine load. Engine overspeeding must be corrected
immediately before serious engine damage occurs. Use the applicable following procedure to diagnose a
suspected governor failure.
ENGINE OVERSPEEDING
1. If the engine runs wide open (faster than normal), shut the engine off or slow it down immediately.
2. Check the condition of the external governor shaft, linkage, governor spring, and speed control assembly
for breakage or binding. Correct or replace binding or damaged parts.
3. Follow the governor adjustment procedure and reset the governor - see "Service" in this chapter.
4. Run the engine. Be ready to shut the engine off if an overspeed problem still exists. If the problem
persists, the engine will require disassembly to inspect the governor gear assembly for damage, binding,
or wear.
5. See Chapter 9 under "Disassembly Procedure" to disassemble the engine.
6. Remove the governor gear assembly. Repair or replace as necessary.
ENGINE SURGING
1. Try to stabilize the engine R.P.M. by holding in one position the solid link between the governor arm
and the carburetor throttle, using a pliers or fingers.
2. If the engine R.P.M. stabilizes, the governor or governor adjustment should be checked. See "Service"
governor adjustment procedure in this chapter. If the engine R.P.M. does not stabilize, the engine will
require additional checks see Chapter 9 under "Troubleshooting".
3. If the problem persists after the governor adjustment, check the engine R.P.M. found on microfiche
card # 30. The R.P.M. settings are critical. If the R.P.M. setting for high and low speed are within
specification and a slight surge is experienced, increasing the engine idle R.P.M. setting slightly may
eliminate this condition.
4. Check the governor shaft or linkages for binding, wear, or improper hookup. Check the governor
spring for adequate tension or damaged condition. Repair or replace as necessary.
22
Main Menu
SERVICE
GOVERNOR ADJUSTMENT
With the engine stopped, loosen the screw holding the governor lever to the governor shaft clamp. Push the
governor lever to move the carburetor throttle plate to the wide open position. Rotate the governor clamp
counterclockwise on all overhead valve engines covered in this manual. Hold the lever and clamp in this
position while tightening the screw (diag. 2).
PUSH
LEVER TO
WIDE OPEN
THROTTLE
Ý
GOVERNOR
CLAMP
SCREW
Ú
THROTTLE LINK
GOVERNOR
LEVER
THROTTLE PLATE
GOVERNOR
ROD
GOVERNOR
SCREW
GOVERNOR
CLAMP
SCREW
2
STANDARD
LOCATION
THROTTLE OPEN
(PUSH COUNTERGOVERNOR
CLOCKWISE)
LEVER
GOVERNOR
ROD
YOU MUST USE THIS
LINK POSITION
TURN CLIP COUNTERCLOCKWISE ON ALL VERTICAL
SHAFT ENGINES EXCEPT VLV & VLXL. CLOCKWISE
ON ALL HORIZONTAL SHAFT ENGINES EXCEPT
OHH,OHSK 50,55 & OHM, OHSK 110,120.
THROTTLE OPEN
(PUSH COUNTERCLOCKWISE)
ROTATE LEVER
& ROD
COUNTERCLOCKWISE
OHH SERIES - NEW STYLE
GOVERNOR
CLAMP
THROTTLE
PLATE
(TOP VIEW)
ROTATE CLAMP
COUNTERCLOCKWISE
OHH SERIES - OLD STYLE
3
GOVERNOR GEAR AND SHAFT SERVICE
After the cylinder cover is removed from the engine, the governor spool, gear, or governor shaft can be
removed. On some governor assemblies, the retaining ring must be removed to allow the spool or gear to
slide off the shaft. Other governor shafts use an upset to hold the governor spool on. If the gear requires
replacement, the governor shaft will have to be removed.
Governor Gear or Shaft Replacement,
Upset Style Governor Shaft
1. Grip the original spool in a vise and use a
twisting and pulling motion on the flange until
the spool is free.
2. Clamp the shaft in a vise and pound gently
on the flange with a wooden or plastic mallet
to remove the shaft (diag. 4).
NOTE: DO NOT TWIST THE SHAFT WHEN
REMOVING. THE SHAFT BOSS MAY
BECOME ENLARGED AND THE PRESS FIT
WILL NOT SECURE THE NEW GOVERNOR
SHAFT.
4
3. To install a new shaft, first assemble the gear
and washer on the shaft. Start the shaft into
the hole with a few taps from a soft faced
hammer.
4. Place the flange in a press with a solid piece
supporting the area below the shaft boss.
Press the shaft in until a part # 670297
(.0125" / .3175 mm) shim just becomes snug
(.010" - .020" / .254-.508 mm clearance)
(diag. 5).
GEAR
SHIM
WASHER
SHAFT BOSS
5
670297 (modified)
23
Main Menu
Governor Shaft Replacement, Retaining Ring Style
1. Remove the retaining ring, spool, gear assembly, and washer(s).
2. Clamp the shaft in a vise and pound gently on the flange with a wooden or plastic mallet to remove the
shaft.
NOTE: DO NOT TWIST THE GOVERNOR SHAFT WHEN REMOVING. THE SHAFT BOSS MAY
BECOME ENLARGED AND THE PRESS FIT WILL NOT SECURE THE NEW GOVERNOR SHAFT.
3. Start the new shaft into the shaft boss by tapping with a soft faced hammer.
4. Refer to the chart at right for the proper shaft exposed length from the mounting surface. Add a drop
of red Loctite 271 and press the governor shaft to the proper depth using a press or a vise. Wipe the
extra Loctite off after installation.
5. Reassemble the washer (s), governor gear, and spool followed by the retaining ring.
ENGINE MODEL
OHH/OHSK50-70
OVRM
OHM
OHSK80-130
OVM
OVXL
OHV
RETAINING
RING
SPOOL
1.350" - 1.365"
(34.290-34.671 mm)
6
SERVICED AS ASSEMBLY
RETAINING
RING
SPOOL
SPOOL
SPOOL
UPSET
WASHER
SHAFT
RETAINING
RING
RETAINING
RING
GEAR ASSY.
(GOV.)
WASHER
EXPOSED SHAFT LENGTH
1.319" - 1.334"
(33.502 - 33.883 mm)
1.085" - 1.100"
(27.559 - 27.940 mm)
GEAR ASSY.
(GOV.)
SPOOL
GEAR ASSY.
(GOV.)
GEAR ASSY.
(GOV.)
SHAFT
WASHER
GEAR ASSY.
(GOV.)
SPACER
WASHER
WASHER
SHAFT
OVRM TYPE I
24
SHAFT
7
OVRM TYPE II
8
MEDIUM FRAME
WASHER
RETAINING
RING
WASHER
SPACER
NOTE; SPACER
MAY BE PART
OF THE GEAR
ASSEMBLY.
SHAFT
9
OHH / OHSK50-70
10
OVM / OHV / OHM
OHSK80-130
11
Main Menu
Speed Controls And Linkage
Many different types of speed controls and linkage are used for O.E.M. applications. Linkage attachment
points are best recorded or marked prior to disassembly. This assures the correct placement during reassembly.
The solid link is always connected from the outermost hole in the governor lever to the throttle in the carburetor.
The governor spring is connected between the speed control lever and the governor lever. Vertical shaft
engines may use an adjustable intake pipe mounted speed control bracket located above the carburetor, or a
vertical or horizontal control mounted on the side of the engine. The ignition ground out terminal, idle R.P.M.
and high speed R.P.M. adjustment screws may be located on the speed control bracket.
The adjustable speed control bracket which is
mounted on the intake pipe must be aligned properly
when installing. To align the control bracket, use the
following steps.
1. Loosen the two screws on the top of the panel.
2. Move the control lever to full wide open throttle
position and install a wire or aligning pin through
the hole in the top of the panel, the hole in the
choke actuating lever, and the hole in the choke
(diag. 12).
3. With the components aligned, tighten the two
screws on the control panel.
The following pages show common linkage hookup
arrangements. Whenever the carburetor or the
governor linkage is removed or replaced, the engine
R.P.M.'s should also be checked. Use microfiche card
#30 or contact a local Tecumseh dealer for the correct
R.P.M. settings for the engine model and specification.
12
HIGH SPEED STOP
NOTE: RPM SETTINGS CAN ALSO BE FOUND ON
THE COMPUTERIZED PARTS LOOK UP SYSTEMS.
OHH REMOTE SPEED CONTROL
The engine and equipment control must be adjusted
to allow the engine control lever to touch the high
speed stop when the equipment control is set in the
"highspeed" or "fast" position. Loosen the bowden wire
clamp, place the equipment control to the "fast"
position, move the engine control lever to contact the
high speed stop, and hold the lever in this position
while tightening the bowden wire clamp.
13
OHH GOVERNED IDLE SPEED CONTROL
This control is adjusted by bending the tabs on the control bracket to achieve the correct idle speed and high
speed. When the engine is running, the governor controls both the idle and the high engine speed. In order for
the governor to respond properly to a crankshaft load at engine idle, the idle speed screw on the top of the
carburetor must be set 600 RPM lower than the governed idle speed. Use the following procedure to set the
engine speeds (diag. 14 & 16).
1. Check to find the correct engine speeds found on microfiche card # 30 or using the Computer Parts Lookup System.
2. Start and allow the engine to run ( 3-5 minutes) before beginning adjustments. Place the control knob in
the lowest engine speed position. Use a Vibra-Tach or other tachometer to set the non-governed idle
speed (600 RPM lower than the governed idle speed) by pushing the bottom of the governor lever away
from the control bracket so the throttle lever contacts the idle speed screw and hold the lever in this
position. Turn the idle speed screw clockwise to increase or counterclockwise to decrease engine idle
speed.
3. Allow the governor to control the throttle. Use a Vibra-Tach or other tachometer and bend the tab as
shown to achieve the specified governed idle speed.
4. Slide the control knob to the high speed position and bend the tab as shown to achieve the specified
governed high engine speed.
25
Main Menu
NOTE: Early production OHH engines did not have governed idle, set only the idle crack screw and high
speed governor stop.
WINTER
APPLICATION
CONTROL
GOVERNED
IDLE LINK
AND
ADJUSTMENT
HIGH SPEED
ADJUSTMENT
HIGH SPEED ADJUST
BEND TO ADJUST SPEED
DECREASE
Þ INCREASE
Þ
OHH REMOTE & MANUAL
14
15
OHH FIXED SPEED
THROTTLE CRACK SCREW
T-10
GOVERNED
HIGH SPEED
ADJUST
BEND
Þ
INCREASE
GOVERNOR SPRING
CORRECT BUSHING
INSTALLATION DEEP
SIDE
HERE
GOVERNED IDLE LINK
16
OHH RV CONTROL
THROTTLE CRACK SCREW
T-10
GOVERNED
HIGH SPEED
ADJUST
Þ
Þ
Þ DECREASE
GOVERNED IDLE TAB
17
OH / OHSK CONTROL
LOW SPEED TAB
HIGH SPEED
PIN POSITION
HIGH SPEED TAB
Þ
DECREASE
Þ
INCREASE
GOVERNED IDLE SCREW
OHSK / OHM CONTROL
NOTE: ON REMOTE
CONTROL THIS
WILL NOT
BE PRESENT
OVRM SNAP IN CONTROL
19
OVRM
21
HIGH SPEED ADJUST
LOW SPEED ADJUST
OVRM
26
18
20
Main Menu
HIGH
SPEED
ADJUST
GOVERNED IDLE
ADJUST
OVM / OVXL GOVERNOR OVERRIDE
22
OHV11 - 17 SPEED CONTROL
23
SPEED CONTROL BRACKET
DETENT BEARING PLATE
CONDUIT CLIP
BUSHING
SCREW
LOCK NUT
CONTROL KNOB
GROUNDING TERMINAL
WAVE WASHER
ADDITION BOWDEN WIRE BRACKET
CONTROL LEVER
WASHER
NOTE: THIS CONTROL IS STANDARD ON SERVICE ENGINES AND IS OPTIONAL TO CUSTOMERS
24
CONVERSION TO REMOTE CONTROL
Remove the manual control knob by squeezing together with a pliers or prying with a screw driver. Remove
the air cleaner cover and air cleaner element to gain easier access to the speed control lock nut that holds the
control levers together.
Remove the 3/8" (9.525 mm) locknut, bushing, wave washer, control lever, and the detent bearing plate.
Reassembly of REMOTE control.
Discard the detent bearing plate and in its place install the washer with the smaller I.D. from the new parts bag.
Install the lever over the post making sure that the end of the lever is in the slot of the control.
Place the other washer with the large I.D. from the parts bag next to lever, then the bushing. The smaller side
of the bushing goes towards the lever and fits inside of the lever and the washer.
Discard the wave washer.
Install the lock nut.
Check the alignment of the lever, bushing and washers to ensure that everything is aligned properly and
torque the lock nut to 20 in. lbs. (2 Nm).
The control lever should move freely.
This engine speed control is set up with the "stop in the control". If a remote stop is desired remove and
discard the short green wire that runs from the speed control grounding terminal (to the remote grommet stop
blade). Reinstall the blade and screw. It will now be necessary to run a grounding wire to a remote grounding
switch in order to stop the engine.
A remote grounding switch can be added to the engine at this terminal as well, thus allowing the engine to be
stopped at either the stop in the control or the remote grounding switch.
27
Main Menu
This remote speed control may have governed idle, a
choke override, and the option of an ignition remote
stop terminal block.
The speed control is adjusted to the equipment throttle
control by aligning the slot in the speed control lever
with the alignment hole on the mounting bracket.
Place a pin through the two holes, place the equipment
throttle control to the wide open position, hook the
bowden cable end in the control as shown, and tighten
the cable housing clamp. In this position, the gap of
.040" - .070" (1.02 - 1.778 mm) should exist at the
gap location as illustrated. This will assure that the
carburetor will go into full choke when the control is
placed in the start position.
The idle speed is adjusted by turning the idle speed
screw clockwise to increase engine R.P.M. and
counterclockwise to decrease R.P.M. Use tool part #
670326 to adjust the high speed engine R.P.M. Place
the slotted end of the tool onto the adjustment tab
and bend the tab to the left (away from the control) to
increase engine R.P.M.
Throttle plate alignment on all models with speed
controls mounted on intake manifold. This adjusts
choke in control as well (diag. 12 on page 25).
OHV 11-17 HORIZONTAL SPEED
CONTROL
This speed control is adjusted to the equipment throttle
control by aligning the slot in the speed control lever
with the alignment hole on the mounting bracket.
Place a pin through the two holes, place the equipment
throttle control to the wide open position, hook the
bowden cable end in the control as shown, and tighten
the cable housing clamp. In this position, the gap of
.040" - .070" (1.02 - 1.778 mm) should exist at the
gap location as illustrated. This will assure that the
carburetor will go into full choke when the control is
placed in the start position.
NOTE: Assure that the throttle cable has full travel
from wide open throttle to full choke. Hard starting
could result if the cable is not properly adjusted to
allow for full choke.
DECREASE
INCREASE
Þ
OVM, OVXL, OHV VERTICAL SPEED
CONTROL
Þ
HIGH SPEED
ADJUSTING LEVER
BEND
TO
ADJUST
HIGH
SPEED
.040 - .070
(1.02 - 1.778 mm)
GAP LOCATION
CHOKE
ADJUSTING
TAB
CONTROL LEVER
HIGH SPEED
PIN POSITION
IDLE ADJUSTING
SCREW
OHV VERTICAL CONTROL
25
CHOKE
HOOKUP
HIGH SPEED
ADJUSTMENT
TAB
THROTTLE
LINK HOOKUP
IDLE SPEED
SCREW
ALIGNMENT
HOLE
TOOL #670326
CHOKE LEVER
AIR GAP
(.040 - .070")
(1.02 - 1.778 mm)
BEND TAB TO
ADJUST
OHV 11 - 17 HORIZONTAL CONTROL
26
LINKAGE BUSHING
The idle speed is adjusted by turning the idle speed
screw clockwise to increase engine R.P.M. and
counterclockwise to decrease R.P.M. Use tool part
# 670326 to adjust the high speed engine R.P.M. Place
the slotted end of the tool onto the adjustment tab
and bend the tab to the left (toward the spark plug
end) to increase engine R.P.M.
OHV 11 -17 engines use nylon bushings on the throttle
and choke linkage hook-up points to extend the life
of the linkage and to enhance the stability of the
governor system. Make sure they are in good
condition and in place (diag. 27).
28
27
Main Menu
CHAPTER 5 RECOIL STARTERS
GENERAL INFORMATION
Recoil starters used on vertical shaft Tecumseh engines are top mount horizontal pull style. Horizontal shaft
engines use recoil starters which can be mounted to pull either vertically or horizontally. All recoil starters turn
the engine over by engaging a dog(s) into the starter cup attached to the engine flywheel. All starters are
spring loaded to retract the dog(s) when the engine speed exceeds the turning speed of the starter.
OPERATION
As the starter rope is pulled, the starter pulley rotates on the center pin. The starter dog(s) is pinned or
pocketed in the pulley hub and extend outward when the pulley rotation forces the starter dog(s) to contact the
ears on the retainer. The retainer ears act as a ramp to fully extend the starter dog(s). The fully extended
starter dog(s) locks in contact with notches in the starter cup. When the engine fires and the rotational speed
of the starter cup exceeds the starter pulley, the starter dog(s) disengages from the starter cup. The starter dog
spring(s) returns the starter dog(s) to the disengaged position. When the starter handle is released, the recoil
spring turns the starter pulley in the opposite direction to retract the starter rope.
COMPONENTS
ROPE
HANDLE
STARTER HOUSING
HANDLE
SPRING &
KEEPER
PULLEY AND
REWIND SPRING
ASSY.
STARTER DOG
HOUSING
PULLEY
DOG SPRING
WASHER
DOG SPRING
RETAINER
RETAINER
BRAKE SPRING
BRAKE SPRING
WASHER
SPRING PIN
1
DOG
BRAKE WASHER
CAM DOG
CENTER
2
SCREW
SERVICE
Starter related problems will require the starter to be removed from the engine to diagnose the cause. Visually
inspect the starter dog(s), starter cup, retainer, springs, rope, washers, and the starter pulley for wear or
breakage. Use one of the following procedures that apply to the application to disassemble, repair, and assemble
the starter. Always consult the Tecumseh Master Parts Manual for the correct replacement parts.
ROPE SERVICE
Rope replacement should be done using the correct part number replacement rope or braided rope of the
correct diameter and length. Consult the Tecumseh Master Parts Manual to obtain the correct part number,
length, and size required. Use the following rope chart to convert a numbered rope to a fractional diameter for
bulk rope use. The rope ends should be cauterized by burning with a match and wiping the rope end with a
cloth while hot.
29
Main Menu
CAUTION: HANDLE MATCHES SAFELY TO
AVOID BURNS, AND EXTINGUISH
COMPLETELY BEFORE DISCARDING.
# 4 1/2 rope =
9/64" diameter (3.572 mm)
# 5 rope
=
5/32" diameter (3.969 mm)
# 6 rope
=
3/16" diameter (4.762mm)
ROPE RETAINER REPLACEMENT
1. Remove the starter handle if the retainer is a
complete circle design. Remove the staple and
old retainer.
STAPLE
2. Slide the rope retainer into the proper position
and insert the staple using a pliers.
3. Install the starter handle and tie a left hand knot
to secure the handle.
ONE PIECE ROPE RETAINER
STYLIZED REWIND STARTER (OHH, OVRM,
OHM, OHSK, OVM, OVXL, OHV), and
STAMPED STEEL STARTER
Disassembly Procedure
1. After removing the rewind assembly from the
engine blower housing, release the tension on
the rewind spring. Remove the starter handle
and carefully allow the rope to unwind into the
starter housing (diag. 4).
2. Remove the decal or plastic disc in the center
of the rewind.
ROPE
HANDLE
STARTER HOUSING
PULLEY AND
REWIND SPRING
ASSY.
STARTER DOG
DOG SPRING
WASHER
3. Place a 1" (25.4 mm) deep well socket under
the retainer. Set the rewind on a bench,
supported on the socket.
4. Use a 5/16" (7.937 mm) or a [1/4" (6.35 mm)
punch for stamped steel] roll pin punch to drive
out the center pin. The stamped steel center
pin is driven out from the outside, the punch tip
must be angled inside the center hole. Move
the punch around while driving the pin to help
keep the pin straight.
3
RETAINER
LEFT-HAND
KNOT
BRAKE SPRING
WASHER
SPRING PIN
4
CAUTION: THIS REWIND SPRING IS NOT
SECURED IN A CANISTER. PULLEY
BOSSES HOLD THE REWIND SPRING AND
COVER, AND CAN BE EASILY DISLODGED
DURING HANDLING.
5. Remove the brake spring, retainer, washers,
and pulley assembly (diag. 4).
Note: The starter dogs face out on the stamped
steel starter and the dogs face in on the stylized
rewind starter.
6. All components in need of service should be
replaced.
30
5
Main Menu
Assembly Procedure
1. Reverse the disassembly procedure. The
starter dogs with the dog springs must snap
back to the center of the pulley (disengaged
position). When the rope is pulled, the tabs
on the retainer must be positioned so that they
will force the starter dogs to engage the starter
cup. (diag. 6 & 7)
2. Install a new recoil spring if necessary by
pushing the new spring out of the holder into
the pulley cavity while aligning the outside
spring hook into the deep notch in the pulley.
Push the spring cover in until seated.
STARTER HOUSING
HANDLE
HANDLE
INSERT
ROPE
PULLEY AND REWIND
SPRING ASSY.
NOTE: DO NOT DRIVE THE CENTER PIN
IN TOO FAR.
The retainer will bend and the starter dogs
will not engage the starter cup. On the
stamped steel starter the center pin should
be driven in until it contacts the shoulder in
the starter housing.
5. Replacing rope wind the starter pulley
counterclockwise four or five turns to pre-load
the recoil spring and thread the rope through
the starter housing eyelet. Pull enough rope
through to tie a temporary knot in the rope.
Reattach the starter handle to the rope using
a left-hand knot. Untie the temporary knot and
allow the rope to recoil.
WASHER
STARTER DOG
RETAINER
BRAKE SPRING
3. Always replace the center spring pin with a
new one upon reassembly. Place the two new
plastic washers between the center leg of the
starter and the retainer. New plastic washers
are provided with a new center spring pin.
Discard the old plastic washer.
4. Place the rewind on a flat surface and drive
the new center pin in until it is within 1/8"
(3.175 mm) of the top of the starter.
DOG
SPRING
WASHER
SPRING PIN
6
STARTER
HOUSING
HANDLE
ROPE
PULLEY AND REWIND
SPRING ASSY.
DOG SPRING
STARTER DOG
WASHER
RETAINER
LEFT-HAND
KNOT
BRAKE SPRING
WASHER
SPRING PIN
7
RETAINER WEDGE
STYLIZED REWIND STARTER WITH
PLASTIC RETAINER
Disassembly Procedure
1. After removing the rewind assembly from the
engine blower housing, remove the starter
handle by first pulling a length of rope out
using the handle, tying a temporary knot in
the exposed rope, and either untying the knot
in handle or prying out the staple.
2. Untie the temporary knot and slowly allow the
rope to fully retract into the starter housing
and the recoil spring to fully unwind.
3. Remove the decal from the center of the
starter housing.
STARTER
HOUSING
STARTER PULLEY
SPRING & COVER
DOG SPRING
STARTER DOG
DOG RETAINER
8
31
Main Menu
4. Use a small Phillips screwdriver or similar tool
to pry the retainer legs apart and lift out the
retaining wedge.
RETAINING WEDGE
(STEEL CLIP - NEW STYLE)
5. Pinch the legs of the retainer together and
pull on the head of the retainer to remove it
from the housing.
STARTER
HOUSING
6. Remove the pulley assembly from the recoil
housing.
7. Repair or replace as necessary.
Assembly
STARTER PULLEY
SPRING & COVER
1. If replacing the starter rope, see Step 8.
2. Install a new recoil spring if necessary by
pushing the new spring out of the holder into
the pulley cavity while aligning the outside
spring hook into the deep notch in the pulley.
Push the spring cover in until seated.
DOG SPRING
STARTER DOG
3. Apply a small amount of lithium grease to the
inner bore of the center shaft.
DOG RETAINER
9
4. Replace or check that both starter dogs are
in the pulley pockets and that the dog springs
are hooked on the outer surface of the dog.
5. Pinch the two legs of the plastic retainer
together and start into the center shaft hole.
6. Rotate the retainer so the two tabs on the
bottom of the part fit between the dog and
pulley hub (left side of the dog). Push the
retainer in until the leg prongs pop out of the
center shaft.
7. Turn the starter over and snap the locking tab
between the retainer legs, replace the top
decal.
NOTE: Refer to Service Bulletin 122 for metal
locking tab.
8. Wind the starter pulley counterclockwise four
or five turns to pre-load the recoil spring and
thread the rope through the starter housing
eyelet. Pull enough rope through to tie a
temporary knot in the rope. Reattach the
starter handle to the rope using a left-hand
knot. Untie the temporary knot and allow the
rope to recoil.
STARTER HOUSING
REWIND
SPRING AND
KEEPER
ASSY.
HANDLE
KEEPER SPRING STYLE STARTERS
Disassembly Procedure
1. Untie the knot in the rope and slowly release
the spring tension.
2. Remove the center screw, retainer (cam dog
on snow proof type), starter dog(s) and dog
spring(s), and brake spring (diag. 10).
3. Turn the spring and keeper assembly to
remove the pulley. Lift the pulley out of the
starter housing. Replace all worn or damaged
parts.
32
HANDLE
INSERT
ROPE
PULLEY
LEFT-HAND
KNOT
CAM DOG
WASHER
DOG SPRING
STARTER DOG
DOG RETAINER
RETAINER SCREW
BRAKE SPRING
SPRING PIN
"STAMPED STEEL WITH ROLL PIN"
10
Main Menu
Assembly Procedure
HOUSING
NOTE: This procedure covers three starters. Follow
illustration of your starter type as shown.
1. Place the rewind spring and keeper assembly
into the pulley. Turn the pulley to lock into
position. A light coating of grease should be
on the spring.
HANDLE
SPRING &
KEEPER ASSY.
PULLEY
BRAKE SPRING
RETAINER
DOG SPRNG
RETAINER SCREW
2. Place the pulley assembly into the starter
housing.
"STAMPED STEEL"
CENTER PIN
11
3. Install the brake spring, starter dog(s), and
starter dog return spring(s). The starter dog
spring(s) must hold the dog(s) in against the
pulley.
STARTER HOUSING
4. Replace the retainer cup (cam dog on snow
proof starter) and retainer screw. Tighten to
65 - 75 in. lbs. (7-8.5 Nm) Older models that
use a 10 - 32 retainer screw can be replaced
with a larger 12 - 28 screw (part # 590409A).
Re-drill the screw hole using a 13/64"
(5.159 mm) drill bit. The center screw torque
on cast aluminum starters is 115 to 135 in.
lbs. (13-15 Nm) (diag. 11).
ROPE
HANDLE
INSERT
PULLEY
LEFT-HAND
KNOT
5. Tension the recoil spring by winding the pulley
counterclockwise until it becomes tight, then
allow the pulley to unwind until the hole in the
pulley lines up with the rope eyelet in the
starter housing. Install a knotted rope through
the pulley and the eyelet and install the
handle. A left-hand knot should be tied on the
end of the rope to secure the handle.
REWIND
SPRING AND
KEEPER
ASSY.
HANDLE
CAM DOG
WASHER
DOG SPRING
STARTER DOG
DOG RETAINER
RETAINER SCREW
BRAKE SPRING
SPRING PIN
"STAMPED STEEL WITH ROLL PIN"
HANDLE
12
HOUSING
SPRING &
KEEPER
PULLEY
DOG SPRING
RETAINER
BRAKE SPRING
"ALUMINUM HOUSING"
DOG
BRAKE WASHER
CAM DOG
CENTER SCREW
13
33
Main Menu
Stylized Starter (OHV 13.5 -17)
1. Remove the starter handle by first pulling a
length of rope out using the handle, tying a
temporary knot in the exposed rope, and
untying the knot in the handle.
STARTER HOUSING
REWIND SPRING
2. Untie the temporary knot and slowly allow the
rope to fully retract into the starter housing
and the recoil spring to fully unwind.
PULLEY
3. Remove the nut (using a 10 mm socket) and
washers from the center leg of the recoil
housing. Slowly unwind the dog spring by
allowing the starter dog retainer to rotate.
4. Remove the starter dog retainer, starter dog
spring, brake spring, and starter dogs.
BRAKE SPRING
STARTER DOGS
STARTER DOG SPRING
LEFT-HAND
KNOT
5. Remove the starter pulley.
STARTER DOG RETAINER
WASHER
CAUTION: THE REWIND SPRING IS NOT
SECURED IN PLACE. HOUSING BOSSES
HOLD THE REWIND SPRING, AND THE
SPRING CAN BE EASILY DISLODGED
DURING HANDLING.
LOCKWASHER
6mm METRIC NUT
14
TYPE I
6. Remove the starter rope from the pulley if
necessary.
Assembly
1. Replace the starter rope if removed by
inserting one end through the hole in the side
of the pulley and tying a left hand knot near
the rope end. Pull the knot into the squared
area and wind the rope counterclockwise
(viewed from the pulley bottom) on the starter
pulley.
STARTER HOUSING
2. Place the pulley on the housing center leg,
align the end of recoil spring and the notch in
the pulley and push down until seated.
3. Insert the starter dogs on the pulley pegs with
the flat side away from the pulley, place the
brake spring and starter dog spring on the
pulley. The starter dogs must be free to retract
into the pulley pocket.
SPRING AND
KEEPER
4. Place the starter dog retainer on the center
leg, hook the end of the dog spring into the
hole in the retainer, press down and turn 1/2
a turn clockwise to line up the notches to the
starter dogs, add the nylon washer, metal
washer, lock washer, and hex nut. Tighten the
hex nut to 40 inch pounds (4.5 Nm) torque.
NOTE: Type II - Apply blue Loctite to the
center screw and torque to 70 in pounds
(8 Nm).
5. Wind the pulley counterclockwise 4-5 turns,
thread the rope through the starter housing
hole, and place a temporary knot in the rope
leaving at least one foot of rope length.
6. Slide the starter handle on the end of the rope
and secure using a left hand knot. Remove
the temporary knot and allow the rope to
retract.
34
PULLEY
STARTER DOG
RETAINER SPRING
WASHER
STARTER DOG
STARTER DOG
RETAINER
BRAKE SPRING
CENTER SCREW
LOCKWASHER
TYPE II
15
Main Menu
CHAPTER 6 ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS
GENERAL INFORMATION
The electrical system consists of three main elements: a battery, a starting circuit, and a charging circuit. The
battery is part of both the starting and charging circuit. The battery should be checked before going into any
extensive starter or charging system checks. If a battery has a shorted cell, overcharging can result, and the
regulator or rectifier may appear to be at fault. If a cell has an open or high resistance connection, the electric
starter operation will be affected.
The power source used to provide the energy to turn an electric starter motor on Tecumseh engines is either
120 volt A.C. current or 12 volt D.C. A 120 volt A.C. starter circuit utilizes a 120 volt power source instead of a
battery. The 12 volt battery models require a charging system to maintain proper battery charge.
The starting circuit includes the battery, battery cables, starter or ignition switch, safety switches, starter solenoid,
and an electric starter motor.
The charging system consists of alternator charge coils, rectifiers or diodes, regulator, ignition switch, flywheel
magnets, and a battery. All engines that have a charging system will use a combination of some or all of these
features.
OPERATION
STARTING CIRCUIT AND ELECTRIC STARTERS
After all of the safety interlock switches have been
activated, the starter switch closes the starting circuit.
A strong magnetic force is produced by the electrical
current running through the armature windings. The
armature magnetism repels the magnetism produced
by the permanent field magnets of the electric starter.
The repelling magnetic forces cause the armature to
rotate, moving the drive pinion laterally on the splined
armature shaft, meshing the starter pinion gear with
the flywheel ring gear. When the drive pinion contacts
the stop at the end of the armature shaft, the pinion
rotates along with the armature shaft to crank the
engine. The armature and pinion remain positively
engaged until the engine fires and the flywheel rotates
faster than the armature. The greater momentum of
the flywheel throws the starter pinion gear out of mesh
and forces the starter pinion back to the disengaged
position. After the switch is released, the starting
circuit is opened and the armature coasts to a stop.
A small anti-drift spring holds the pinion in the
disengaged position (diag. 1).
LOCK NUT
BOLT
END CAP
BRUSHES
WASHER
BRUSH SPRINGS
NUTS
BRUSH CARD
HOUSING
ARMATURE
THRUST
WASHER
SPRING
RETAINER
END CAP
RETAINER
GEAR
SPRING
DUST COVER
ENGAGING NUT
1
CHARGING CIRCUIT
The charging system works independently of any
manual controls. The engine needs to be running to
produce an electric current flow. When a conductor
(alternating coils) cuts the magnetic field generated
by the magnets in the flywheel, a current is induced
in the alternator coil. The permanent magnets in the
flywheel have a magnetic field in which the lines of
magnetic force run from the North Pole to the South
Pole. As the flywheel rotates and the position of the
magnets change, the direction of the magnetic field
changes or alternates. The alternating coils are wound
in different directions to allow current to flow as an
A.C. waveform (diag. 2).
ROTATION OF FLYWHEEL
2
35
Main Menu
CONVERTING ALTERNATING CURRENT
TO DIRECT CURRENT
CATHODE
ANODE
In order to charge a battery, it is necessary to convert
alternating current (A.C.) to direct current (D.C.). This
is accomplished by using a diode or rectifier (diag.
3). A single diode makes use of only one half of the
A.C. signal and is known as HALF WAVE
RECTIFICATION (diag. 4). This is acceptable in
certain applications. In certain situations it is
necessary to make use of the entire A.C. signal. To
accomplish this, multiple diodes in a bridge
configuration are used to produce FULL WAVE
RECTIFICATION (diag. 5).
BAND OR OTHER
MARKING INDICATES
CATHODE END
3
Current flows through a diode when the anode is more positive than the cathode. The cathode end of the diode
should point toward the battery when diode is used between a charging system and a battery.
Half Wave Rectifier Single Diode
The single diode allows only the positive half of the A.C. signal through. It does not allow the negative portion
through.
HALF WAVE RECTIFIER
(SINGLE DIODE)
+ VOLTAGE
+ VOLTAGE
A.C. INPUT
- VOLTAGE
D.C. OUTPUT
4
- VOLTAGE
Full Wave Rectifier Bridge Rectifier
FULL WAVE RECTIFIER
(BRIDGE RECTIFIER)
The full wave rectifier makes use of the entire A.C.
signal, converting it to D.C.
+ VOLTAGE
COMPONENTS
- VOLTAGE
A.C. INPUT
BATTERY
The batteries used in conjunction with Tecumseh
engines are 12 volt lead acid or “maintenance free”
style. The chemical energy produced by the dissimilar
metals of the battery plates provides a electrical
potential that is used to power the electric starter or
unit accessories. Consult the original equipment
manufacturer’s service manual for battery size,
capacities, and testing procedure.
A.C. INPUT
+ VOLTAGE (D.C.)
+ VOLTAGE
D.C. OUTPUT
- VOLTAGE
5
WIRING
The wires used in Tecumseh electrical systems are copper stranded with an insulated coating around the
copper strands.
CONDITION: All wiring must be fully insulated between connection points, securely fastened and free of
foreign material (such as rust and corrosion) at the connection points. This is especially important in the use of
batteries where much of the potential may be lost due to loose connections or corrosion. Remember to check
the insulation on the wire. All it takes is a pin hole for leakage to "ground out" on the engine or frame. This is of
special concern when moisture or water is present.
36
Main Menu
WIRE GAUGE: The proper thickness of wire is
necessary in all electrical circuits. Wire diameter is
measured in increments of gauge numbers. As the
gauge number of the wire increases, the wire diameter
decreases in size (diag. 6).
THE LARGER THE NUMBER THE SMALLER THE WIRE
# 18
1. The starter circuit wiring must be rated at #6 or
lower gauge number.
2. The charging circuit wiring must be rated at #16
or lower gauge number (20 amp system requires
#14 or lower gauge number).
#6
6
3. The magneto circuit wiring (ground circuit) must
be rated at #18 or lower gauge number.
Tecumseh Products Company's standard wiring color codes effective August, 1992 are as follows:
Code
Product
Yellow
-
Alternator A.C. Leads
Red
-
Alternator D.C. + Leads
Brown
-
Alternator D.C. - Leads
Black
-
Alternator Ground Leads, Battery Ground Leads
Orange
-
12 Volt Starter B + Leads
Dark Green -
Ignition Shut-Off Leads
NOTE: PRIOR TO AUGUST 1992, WIRE CODES CHANGED ACCORDING TO MODEL AND SPECIFICATION
NUMBERS.
ELECTRICAL TERMS
ALTERNATOR - An alternator consists of coils of wire wound around a metal lamination stack. When a magnet
is moved past the coils, a current is induced in the coils. In general, the greater the number of coils, the greater
the output of the alternator.
RECTIFIERS and DIODES - Charging a battery requires that the alternating current produced by the alternator
be changed to direct current. This is accomplished by using a diode or rectifier.
REGULATOR/RECTIFIERS - This combines a regulator with a rectifier. The regulator prevents overcharging
of the battery and the rectifier changes the alternating current to direct current.
CONDUCTORS - A conductor is a material that allows an electric current to pass through it. All metals are
conductors of electricity, but some are better conductors than others. Silver, copper and gold are some of the
better known conductors.
INSULATORS - An insulator is a material that will not allow an electric current to pass through it. Some of the
more common materials that are insulators are glass, plastic, rubber, ceramics and porcelain.
BASIC CHECKS
Before going into extensive checks, be sure to perform the more basic checks first, such as:
1. Battery defective or not charged.
2. Corroded or loose terminals or connections, or wrong connections.
3. Cracked insulation or broken wires.
4. A wire "grounding out" in the system.
5. Defective switch.
6. Operator presence system functioning properly.*
*NOTE: ALL LAWN AND GARDEN TRACTORS BUILT AFTER JULY OF 1987 ARE REQUIRED TO HAVE AN
OPERATOR PRESENCE SYSTEM AND MANY CAME EQUIPPED WITH SUCH A SYSTEM PRIOR TO THIS
DATE. IF THE TRACTOR IS "CUTTING OUT" OR WILL NOT START, THIS IS AN AREA THAT SHOULD BE
CHECKED OUT.
37
Main Menu
TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL STARTER CIRCUIT FLOW CHART
NO
YES
Is there power
at the power
source?
Repair or
replace power
source
Starter turns at
low rpms or
stalls under load
Intermittent
starter operation
Starter will not
turn
NO
Is power supplied to the
starter terminal?
Check wiring,
connections,
safety switches,
starter switch
Check starter
for binding
brushes, worn
brushes, dirty or
oily commutator
Internal engine
failure or flywheel
interference
YES
NO
NO
Isolate engine
from the
equipment,
does engine
turn over?
Remove spark
plug, does engine YES
turn over freely?
NO
NO
Internal engine
failure repair or
replace engine
38
Repair or replace
equipment
causing
excessive
loading
Reinstall spark
plug, does
engine bind on
compression
stroke?
Repair or replace
electric starter
YES
YES
Check valve lash.
Adjust if
necessary. Does
the engine turn
over without
binding now ?
Internal engine
failure repair or
replace engine
Main Menu
TROUBLESHOOTING ELECTRICAL CHARGING CIRCUIT FLOW CHART
Identify the charging system
used
by
model
and
specification number or visually
checking the electrical plug
Consult the Mechanic's
Handbook or Electrical
Troubleshooting booklet for test
procedure for the charging
system used
Test for either AC or DC voltage
as directed at the proper engine
RPM
NO
NO
Is the voltage greater than or
equal to the minimum value?
Is AC voltage before diode or YES
rectifier greater than the
minimum value?
Alternator coil
failure, replace
coil assy.
YES
Check wiring, switches, or
ammeter for breaks, shorts
Check diodes,
replace if no
continuity exists or if
continuity exists
reversing test leads
Check fuses, replace
as necessary
Check switches,
wiring, or lights for
shorts
39
Main Menu
TESTING PROCEDURE
STARTING CIRCUIT
1. Check the power source using an electrical tester and following the tester's recommended procedure.
Make sure the battery meets the minimum battery voltage requirements found in the original equipment
manufacturer's service manual.
2. Check the electric starter terminal for the required voltage (12v D.C. or 120v A.C.) using a voltmeter.
CAUTION: FOLLOW ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS WHEN TESTING FOR A.C. VOLTAGE, ELECTRIC
SHOCK CAN KILL.
3. Check wiring, connections, fuses, ignition or starter switch, safety switches, or solenoid for continuity
using a ohmmeter or a continuity light. Repair or replace as necessary.
4. Remove all equipment loads from the engine. Take off all drive belts, chains, and couplers to isolate
the engine from the equipment it is powering.
5. Try to turn the engine over using the recoil assembly if equipped. If the engine doesn’t turn over, a
mechanical binding may be the cause. Check for proper lubrication (oil level and viscosity) and check
for electric starter gear and flywheel ring gear interference. If no problem is discovered, the problem is
an internal failure.
6. If the engine binds only on the compression stroke, check the engine valve clearance per the
specification table in Chapter 10. If the valve clearance is within the specifications, the camshaft
(compression release failure) may require replacement. Valve clearance not within the listed
specifications will require resetting the rocker arms to obtain the proper clearance.
7. If the engine turns over freely, the electric starter should be replaced or disassembled and checked.
See "Service" in this chapter. 120 volt starters labeled UL Listed/CSA Approved can be serviced;
however, starters labeled CSA must only be replaced. If the preceding steps fail to correct the problem,
the engine will require to be disassembled to find the mechanical failure. See Chapter 9 under
"Disassembly Procedure".
CHARGING CIRCUIT
The following pages will show wiring diagrams of several Tecumseh charging systems. The charging system
used on the engine is best identified by obtaining the engine model number and the specification number on
the engine. Consult a Tecumseh dealer or a parts manual to identify the charging system. To make many of the
tests it is necessary to run the engine and measure alternator output with a voltmeter. When making voltage
tests with the engine running, it is not necessary to take readings at all the listed R.P.M.s. Checking at one of
the speeds is sufficient.
In some cases an open circuit D.C. check cannot be
made. A SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) is located
in the circuit which requires a minimum “turn on”
voltage to allow it to conduct. Without the battery in
the circuit this “turn on” voltage is not present. The
SCR “senses” this and there will be no D.C. output
from the regulator / rectifier.
(+) POSITIVE LEAD
Each charging system has its own testing procedure.
Test the charging system using the applicable
procedure found on the following pages.
(-) ENGINE GROUND
350 Milliamp Charging System
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: The battery must be in
the circuit to perform the test properly. Set the
voltmeter to the 0 - 20 D.C. volt scale. Connect a
voltmeter across the battery. The voltmeter should
read the battery voltage. Start the engine. With the
engine running, there should be an increase in the
voltage reading. If there is no change in the voltage
reading, the alternator is defective and should be
replaced. See Chapter 9 for "Disassembly Procedure"
(diag. 7).
40
D.C. OUTPUT
LEAD (RED)
MAGNETO GROUND
(GR)
BATTERY GROUND (BL)
BLACK
ELECTRIC STARTER
LEAD (ORG)
RED
7
Main Menu
18 Watt A.C. Lighting Alternator
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: To check the system,
disconnect the plug from the rest of the lighting
system. Connect a wire lead from the single pin
connector coming out of the engine to one terminal
of a No. 4414, 18 watt bulb. Connect another wire
lead to the other terminal of the bulb and run to a
good ground on the engine. Start the engine and test
the circuit using the A.C. voltmeter as shown (diag.
8).
ENGINE
With the engine running, minimum A.C. voltage across
the bulb should be:
YELLOW
2000 R.P.M. - 6.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 8.5 Volts A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 10.0 Volts A.C.
#4414 BULB
8
If minimum values are noted, the alternator is okay. If
less than the minimum values, the alternator is
defective. See Chapter 9 for "Disassembly
Procedure".
3 AMP
Before making any exterior tests, check for inoperative
switch, shorted wires and burned out headlight and/
or stop tail light. To check out the alternator, check
the A.C. lead to ground at each yellow wire (diag. 9).
With engine running, minimum values should read:
YELLOW
2500 R.P.M. - 8.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 9.5 Volts A.C.
3300 R.P.M. - 10.5 Volts A.C.
A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 11.5 Volts A.C.
YELLOW
GREEN
IGNITION
STOP
It the above minimum readings are noted, the
alternator is okay. Check for defective lights, wiring
or switches, if less than the above readings, the
alternator is defective. See Chapter 9 for
"Disassembly Procedure".
YELLOW
9
NOTE: ON OLDER POINT IGNITION SYSTEMS,
THE A.C. OUTPUT LEADS ARE BLACK AND RED.
TWO DIODES
2.5 Amp D.C., 35 Watt Lighting
RED
To check this system follow the meter hook ups at the
right, checking the D.C. neg and D.C. positive first. If
output is below standard listed pull back protective
coating in front of the diode and check A.C. output. If
A.C. is good check each diode it services as requested
see parts list.
D.C. NEGATIVE
OUTPUT LEAD
(BROWN D.C.)
D.C. valve (+) or (-) check A.C. outputs both sides.
R.P.M. D.C. Volts
2500 - 8.0 Volts D.C.
3000 - 9.5 Volts D.C.
3300 - 10.5 Volts D.C.
3600 - 11.5 Volts D.C.
R.P.M.
2500 3000 3600 -
Volts A.C.
18 Volts A.C.
22 Volts A.C.
26 Volts A.C.
NOTE: These minimum numbers should be obtained
by your meter and will often be higher.
D.C.
D.C. POSITIVE
OUTPUT LEAD
(RED D.C.)
A.C.
D.C.
10
41
Main Menu
3 AMP DC ALTERNATOR SYSTEM DIODE IN HARNESS SLEEVE
This system has a diode included in the red wire which
converts the alternating current (A.C.) to direct current.
The direct current (D.C.) is used to provide a trickle
charge for the battery. The leads from the alternator
and the type of connector may vary, but the output
readings will be the same.
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: Remove the fuse from
fuse holder and check the fuse to make certain it is
good. If faulty, replace with a six (6) AMP fuse.
RED
To check D.C. output, separate the connectors at the
engine. Place the probe (+) in the red wire lead
connector. Ground the other probe to the engine (diag.
11).
With the engine running minimum values should read:
DIODE
GREEN
D.C.
2500 R.P.M. - 8.0 Volts D.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 9.5 Volts D.C.
11
3300 R.P.M. -10.5 Volts D.C.
3600 R.P.M. -11.5 Volts D.C.
If one of these minimum readings are noted, the
system is okay. Check for bad battery, ammeter, wiring,
etc.
If no reading or less than the above reading, proceed
to make an A.C. output check by pulling back the
protective coating from the wire on the alternator side
of the diode. Test the A.C. voltage before the diode
using an A.C. voltmeter.
With the engine running minimum values should read:
2500 R.P.M. - 18.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 22.0 Volts A.C.
3300 R.P.M. - 24.0 Volts A.C.
SPADE
CONNECTOR
SOLDERLESS
CONNECTOR
3600 R.P.M. - 26.0 Volts A.C.
To replace the diode, disconnect at plug (spade
terminal) and cut the wire on the opposite end of the
diode at the solderless (crimped) connector. Remove
1/4" (6.35 mm) of insulation from the cut end of the
wire and twist the strands together. Place the
solderless connector from the new diode onto the
exposed 1/4" (6.35 mm) wire and crimp the connector
with a standard electricians pliers. Reconnect plug end
(or spade connector (diag. 12).
Þ
If low or no voltage is experienced, replace the
alternator. If the alternator puts out the minimum A.C.
voltage, replace the diode.
FUSE HOLDER
12
IF BULB DOES NOT LIGHT OR LIGHTS WHEN
POLARITY REVERSED, DISCARD DIODE.
NOTE: DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER. BE
CAREFUL NOT TO APPLY HEAT DIRECTLY TO THE
DIODE - USE A HEAT SINK.
New heat shrink tubing can be installed by slipping
over the wires and heating with a hot air gun. If this is
not available, tape the diode and connections with
electrical tape.
42
13
Main Menu
5 AMP D.C. ALTERNATOR SYSTEM
REGULATOR-RECTIFIER UNDER
BLOWER HOUSING
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: An open circuit D.C.
voltage check cannot be made with this system. If a
known good battery fails to maintain a charge,
proceed to make an A.C. voltage test.
To do this, the blower housing must be removed, and
the regulator-rectifier must be brought outside of the
blower housing. Reinstall the blower housing.
Disconnect the red D.C. output connector at the wiring
harness and connect the probes from an A.C.
voltmeter to the wire terminals at the regulator-rectifier
(diag. 14).
CAUTION: AT NO TIME SHOULD THE
ENGINE BE STARTED WITH THE BLOWER
HOUSING REMOVED.
INSERT PROBES INTO CONNECTOR SLOTS.
DO NOT REMOVE CONNECTOR WIRES.
YELLOW
RED
NOTE: D.C. OUTPUT MUST BE DISCONNECTED TO
PERFORM A.C. OUTPUT TEST.
A.C. VOLTMETER
CAUTION: BLOWER HOUSING MUST BE
INSTALLED WHEN RUNNING ENGINE
14
With the engine running, the minimum values should
read:
2500 R.P.M. - 19.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 23.0 Volts A.C.
3300 R.P.M. - 26.0 Volts A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 28.0 Volts A.C.
If the minimum values are noted, the alternator is ok
and the regulator-rectifier is defective. If less than
above readings, the alternator is defective. See
Chapter 9 for "Disassembly Procedure".
3 Amp D.C. 5 Amp A.C. Alternator
This unit combines a 3 Amp D.C. system used to
charge a battery with a 5 Amp A.C. system used for
lighting. Located in the red wire of the harness is a
diode which converts the alternating current to direct
current for charging the battery. The yellow wire
provides the A.C. voltage for the lighting circuit.
A wire harness( part # 36588) may be added to the 3
Amp D.C. / 5 Amp A.C. charging system to power an
electric clutch without the use of a battery. Test the
charging system using the applicable " Checking the
System " procedure listed in this section. Test the
diode in the harness by using a continuity test (diag.
15) Continuity should exist in one direction only.
Replace the diode if continuity exists after reversing
tester leads or no continuity is found. Use the
procedure for diode replacement found in the 3 AMP
alternator test (diag. 12).
RED LEAD
DIODE
3 AMP D.C.
BLACK LEAD
5 AMP A.C.
15
43
Main Menu
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: To check the system,
disconnect the plug and measure the D.C. voltage at
the red wire terminal (diag. 16). Measure the A.C.
voltage at the yellow wire terminal. With the engine
running, the minimum values should be:
MODELS OVM/OVXL/OHV12.5
3 Amp D.C. (Red wire)
RED
2500 R.P.M. - 8.0 Volts D.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 11.0 Volts D.C
3600 R.P.M. - 13.0 Volts D.C.
5 Amp A.C. (Yellow wire)
DIODE
YELLOW
D.C.
D.C.
2500 R.P.M. - 8.5 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 11.0 Volts A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 13.0 Volts A.C.
16
MODELS OHV 13.5 - 17.0 (3/5 amp split)
3 Amp D. C. (Red wire)
2500 R.P.M. - 6.5 Volts D. C.
3000 R.P.M. - 9.0 Volts D. C.
3600 R. P.M. - 11.0 Volts D. C.
5 Amp A.C. (Yellow wire)
2500 R.P.M. - 15.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 18.0 Volts A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 22.0 Volts A.C.
If the above minimum values are noted, the system is
okay. Check for defective lights, wiring or switches. If
less than above values are noted, pull back the
protective shrink tubing from the diode. Using an A.C.
voltmeter, check the voltage going into the diode from
alternator, at the lead on the alternator side of the
diode (diag.17). If low or no voltage is experienced,
replace the alternator.
DIODE
RED
YELLOW
A.C.
A.C.
17
Models OVM/OVXL/OHV12.5
(Red between Engine and Diode)
With the engine running, the minimum values should
read:
2500 R.P.M. - 20.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 25.0 Volts A.C.
3300 R.P.M. - 26.5 Volts A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 29.0 Volts A.C.
DIODE
A.C.
18
44
Main Menu
Models OHV 13.5 - 17
(Read between Engine and Diode)
A.C.
2500 R.P.M. - 17.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 21.0 Volts A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 24.5 Volts A.C.
RED
If low or no voltage is experienced, replace the
alternator. If the alternator puts out the minimum A.C.
voltage, replace the diode.
DIODE
YELLOW
19
7 Amp D.C. Alternator System RegulatorRectifier Under Engine Housing
In this system, the regulator and rectifier are combined
in one solid state unit mounted under the blower
housing of the engine.
Various types of regulator-rectifiers have been used
on different applications. Test procedures for all types
are the same. However, regulator styles are not
interchangeable (diag. 20).
MAGNETO GROUND - GREEN
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: An open circuit D.C.
voltage check cannot be made with this system. If a
known good battery fails to maintain a charge,
proceed to make an A.C. voltage test.
To do this, the blower housing must be removed, and
the regulator-rectifier must be brought outside of the
blower housing.
D.C. OUTPUT LEAD-RED
Keep the A.C. leads attached to the regulator-rectifier.
Install the blower housing with the regulator-rectifier
outside the housing. With an A.C. voltmeter probe
the regulator as shown (diag. 21)
INSERT PROBES INTO
CONNECTOR SLOTS DO
NOT REMOVE
CONNECTOR WIRES
CAUTION: AT NO TIME SHOULD THE
ENGINE BE STARTED WITH THE BLOWER
HOUSING REMOVED.
With engine running, minimum A.C. voltage from lead
to lead should be:
2500 R.P.M. - 16.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 19.0 Volts A.C.
3300 R.P.M. - 21.0 Volts A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 23.0 Volts A.C.
If the minimum readings are noted, the alternator is
okay. If the system fails to charge a known good
battery, the regulator-rectifier is defective.
20
CAUTION: BLOWER
HOUSING MUST BE
INSTALLED WHEN
RUNNING ENGINE
YELLOW
RED
A.C. VOLTMETER
21
45
Main Menu
10 Amp A.C. Alternator
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: Unplug the connector at
the wiring harness supplied by the OEM. Proceed to
make an A.C. output check. Place one lead of the
A.C. voltmeter on the center plug of the connector.
Place the other lead to engine ground (diag. 22).
A.C. OUTPUT
YELLOW
A.C.
With the engine running, minimum values should read:
22
2500 R.P.M. - 16.0 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 20.0 Volts A.C.
3300 R.P.M. - 22.0 Volts A.C.
If less than above output, the alternator assembly is
defective. See Chapter 9 for "Disassembly
Procedure".
16 Amp Alternator System with External Regulator
CHECKING THE SYSTEM: An open circuit D.C. voltage check cannot be made with this system. If a known
good battery fails to maintain a charge, proceed to make an A.C. voltage test.
Disconnect the red D.C. output connector at the wiring harness and connect the probes from an A.C. voltmeter
to the wire terminals at the regulator-rectifier.
With the engine running, minimum values should read:
2500 R.P.M. - 21 Volts A.C.
3000 R.P.M. - 26.5 Volts A.C.
3600 R.P.M. - 31.0 Volts A.C.
D.C. OUTPUT - RED
If the minimum values are noted, the alternator is
operating properly. If less than the above values are
noted, the alternator is defective.
SOLENOID
SWITCH
GREEN
MAGNETO
GROUND
VOLTAGE REGULATORS
If a known good or load tested battery fails to maintain
a charge, the charging system and the regulator can
be checked using a voltmeter. Set the voltmeter on
the 0-20 Volt D.C. scale and connect the probes
across the battery terminals. Note the battery voltage.
Start the engine, the voltage reading should increase
from the noted battery voltage but not exceed 15 Volts
D.C. If no voltage increase is noted, proceed to make
an A.C. voltage check using the applicable procedure.
If the battery voltage exceeds 15 Volts D.C., or the
proper minimum A.C. voltage is noted during the
check, replace the regulator (diag. 23).
LIGHT
FUSE
BATTERY
AMMETER
REGULATED
D.C. OUTPUT
YELLOW
RED
NOTE: D.C. OUTPUT MUST BE DISCONNECTED TO
PERFORM A.C. OUTPUT TEST.
FUEL SHUT-DOWN SOLENOIDS
23
If the engine is running, the solenoid can be checked
by removing the electrical plug-in at the base of the
solenoid. Almost immediately the engine should shut
down, if not replace the solenoid.
Test the solenoid off the carburetor by applying 12
volt D.C. from the battery positive terminal to the (or
one) solenoid terminal. Connect a jumper wire from
the metal housing (or other terminal) to a negative
battery terminal. The plunger should retract the full
travel distance. Disconnect the negative jumper lead
and the plunger should return to the extended position.
Replace if necessary (diag. 24).
46
SINGLE
DOUBLE
24
Main Menu
LOW OIL SHUTDOWN SWITCHES
Check the LOS switch while it is in the engine. The
engine must be level, and the oil level at the full mark.
Place the speed control in the run position. Remove
the spark plug wire from the spark plug. Install a gap
type tester connected to the spark plug wire and a
good engine ground. Spin the engine over using the
electric or recoil starter. A bright blue spark should be
seen at the tester. If not, remove the blower housing
and disconnect the LOS lead from the ignition module.
Reinstall the blower housing and spin the engine over.
If spark occurs now, replace the LOS switch. If no
spark is seen, replace the ignition module.
If equipped, the indicator light will flash if the oil level
is at or below the add mark and the engine is turned
over while attempting to start. Test by turning the engine
over with the oil level below the add mark. If the
indicator light does not flash, replace the indicator light.
FLOAT
SWITCH
25
LIGHTED ENGINE ON/OFF ROCKER SWITCH
W/LOW OIL SHUTDOWN
TERMINALS
(3)
INDICATOR LIGHT
27
26
ENGINE ON/OFF ROCKER SWITCH
TERMINALS
(2)
SPACER
28
47
Main Menu
LOW OIL PRESSURE SENSOR
Test the sensor on a running engine using an
ohmmeter or continuity tester with one tester lead
connected the sensor terminal (with lead wire
removed) and the other to an engine ground. An open
circuit should be found with the engine running and
continuity should exist when the engine is shut off. If
continuity is found or the tractor oil pressure indicator
light is on or comes on at low engine RPM's, remove
the sensor and check engine oil pressure with a
master oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure of a
running engine should be above 10 p.s.i. (.700 bar).
If lower than 10 p.s.i. (.700 bar), an internal engine
problem exists (diag. 29).
29
LOW OIL SENSOR
This sensor must use a # 194 bulb in series with the
sensor for proper operation and to prevent sensor
damage. Remove the sensor from the engine and
attach the electrical plug. Attach a jumper lead from
an engine ground to the threaded portion of the
sensor. Place the keyswitch in the run position. The
indicator light should come on with the tip of the sensor
in air and go off when oil covers the sensor tip. The
response time of the sensor is between 5 and 15
seconds with 13 volts D.C. at the battery. Lower
battery voltage will result in a longer response time.
Use teflon-type pipe sealant on the sensor threads to
prevent oil leakage when reinstalling (diag. 30).
30
ELECTRIC STARTER SERVICE
This section covers the service procedures for the 12 and 120 volt electric starters. For diagnosis of the
starting circuit see “Electrical Starter Troubleshooting” in this chapter. Illustrations may not be identical in
configuration to the starter being serviced, but procedures and tests apply unless otherwise stated. Starters
labeled UL listed/ CSA approved are serviceable. Starters labeled CSA cannot be serviced, only replaced. If a
starter is serviced, the "O" rings on each end of the housing must be replaced.
12 VOLT or 120 VOLT ELECTRIC STARTERS
1. Remove the plastic dust cover on the bendix
end (diag. 31).
2. Push down the spring retainer and remove
the retainer ring.
3. Slide off the spring retainer, anti-drift spring,
gear, and drive nut.
BRUSHES
4. If internal service is necessary (non-CSA)
starters only, scribe a line across the cap
assemblies and armature housing to aid in
reassembly.
GASKET
ARMATURE
5. Remove the two or four retaining nuts from
the through bolts holding the cap assembly.
6. Slide off the cap assembly. The terminal
insulator slides out of the commutator cap
(some models).
THRUST
WASHER
RETAINER &
SPRING
7. Remove the armature.
48
8. Inspect and replace as necessary, see the
section "Inspection and Repair" later in this
chapter. Use the reverse procedure for
assembly. ( For ease of assembly, place the
armature into the brush end of the frame first.)
BENDIX ASSEMBLY
RETAINING RING
DUST COVER
31
Main Menu
Inspection And Repair
1. The pinion gear parts should be checked for
damage or wear. If the gear does not engage
or slips, it should be washed in solvent (rubber
parts cleaned in soap and water) to remove dirt
and grease, and dried before reassembly. Also
check the armature and drive nut splines for
wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
2. The brushes and brush card holder should be
checked for wear. With the armature in place
and the brushes engaging the commutator
surface, check the brushes for wear. Brushes
should be replaced if the brush wire approaches
the bottom of the brush holder slot. Brush
springs must exhibit enough strength to keep
tension on the brushes and hold them on the
commutator.
FIELD COIL
CONNECTORS
FIELD COIL
CONNECTORS
BRUSH
SPRINGS
12 VOLT
CONNECTION POINT OF
POWER CORD LEADS
32
120 VOLT
33
3. The field windings can be checked using a
continuity light or ohmmeter. Attach one lead
to each field coil connection. Continuity should
exist between each field coil connection, and
no continuity should exist between the field coil
connections and the starter housing (diag. 32
& 33).
4. The armature should be checked for glazing or
wear. If necessary the armature can be turned
down in a lathe. While rotating, polish the
commutator bars using a piece of 00 sandpaper
(diag. 34). Light pressure and back and forth
movement should be used. Recut the
commutator bars to a depth equal to the width
of the insulators between the bars. Check for
continuity between the copper commutator bars
and the iron of the armature, none should exist
(diag. 35).
34
35
Brush Card Replacement
1. Loosen but do not remove the two nuts on the starter terminal post.
2. Remove the nuts holding the end cap in place. Remove the end cap and the thrust washer.
3. Grasp the thru bolts using a vise grip positioned as close to the flanged end as possible to prevent
thread damage. Remove the two nuts holding the driving end cap in place. Remove the armature and
driving cap assembly, followed by the two thru bolts. Notice the position of the brush ground eyelet under
the thru bolt flange.
4. Note or mark the position of the connectors of the brush wires. Use a wire cutter to clip the solid field
wires as close to the connectors as possible.
5. Note or mark the brush card in the starter housing, and remove the brush card assembly. Clean the
accumulated dirt off all starter parts. Scrape the insulating varnish off the last 1/2" (12.7 mm) of the solid
field wires.
6. Insert the new brush card into position while guiding the solid field wires through the proper slots in the
brush card.
7. Crimp and solder the brush leads to the solid field wires. Use a needle nose pliers or vise grip to hold the
woven brush lead close to the connector while soldering. This prevents solder and heat from flowing up
the brush lead. Insulate the crimped connection nearest the starter terminal post using electrical tape or
heat shrink tubing. Route the wires to prevent damage during assembly.
8. Install the armature into the housing while spreading the brushes. Install the thru bolts while checking to
make sure the bolts go thru the ground brush eyelet terminals. Install and tighten the drive end thru bolt
nuts, but do not overtighten.
9. Install the thrust washer on the end of the armature and the install the starter end cap. Secure the cap
with the locking nuts and tighten the nut on the starter terminal post. Rotate the armature by hand to
check for binding before installation on the engine.
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CHAPTER 7 FLYWHEEL BRAKE SYSTEMS
GENERAL INFORMATION
Tecumseh’s brake systems are required to meet compliance standards which has become a federal law as of
June 30, 1982. Listed below are two methods used by original equipment manufacturers to meet compliance
standards.
1. Use of the blade brake clutch in conjunction with a top mounted recoil starter or 12 volt electric starter.
The blade must stop within three seconds after the operator lets go of the blade control bail at the operator
position and the engine continues to run. Starter rope handle is either on the engine or on the equipment
handle.
2. Use of a recoil starter with the rope handle on the engine as opposed to within 24 inches (61 cm) of the
operator position. This method is acceptable if the mower deck passes the 360 degree foot probe test. A
specified foot probe must not contact the blade when applied completely around the entire blade housing.
This alternative can be used with engine mounted brake systems and typical bail controls. The blade
must stop within three seconds after the operator lets go of the engine/blade control bail at the operator
position and the engine is stopped.
Tecumseh’s flywheel brake system provides consumer safety by killing the engine and stopping the lawnmower
blade within three seconds after the operator releases the engine/blade control bail at the handle of the lawnmower.
This system is available on recoil and electric start models. The engine stopping time is affected by the engine
R.P.M. Consult microfiche card # 30, the Plus 1 or Parts Smart Look-up system, or Service Bulletin # 107 to
determine the correct engine speed or blade tip speed.
OPERATION
In the stop position the brake pad is applied to the inside edge of the flywheel, at the same time the ignition
system is grounded out (diag. 1).
In order to restart the engine, the engine/blade control bail must be applied. This action pulls the brake pad away
from the inside edge of the flywheel and opens the circuit to the ignition ground out terminal. On electric start
systems the starter is energized by an ignition/start switch or a two motion control. On nonelectric start systems,
the recoil starter rope must be pulled to start the engine (diag. 2).
GROUND
CLIP
GROUND
CLIP
IGNITION
GROUND
WIRE
IGNITION
GROUND
WIRE
BRAKE
PAD
BRAKE "ON"
50
1
BRAKE "OFF"
2
Main Menu
COMPONENTS
The brake bracket assembly consists of a replaceable
brake lever and pad, an ignition kill switch, and a tension
spring (diag. 3). Late production brake brackets are
serviced as a complete assembly.
The ignition ground terminal is a plastic block with
a wire extending out of it. The wire is connected to the
ignition ground out spade on the solid state module.
The brake lever contacts the wire of the ignition ground
terminal when the engine/blade control bail is released,
and the ignition module is grounded. This stops the
solid state module from firing the spark plug (diag. 3).
GROUNDING
CLIP POSITION
TOP VIEW
The interlock switch is a push button switch that is
activated by the brake lever when the engine/blade
control is actuated. If there is a electric starter switch
used to start the engine, the interlock switch acts as a
safety switch and will not allow the starter to crank
unless the engine/blade control bail is depressed.
Where a two motion control is used the interlock switch
is utilized as the starter switch.
LINKAGE
BRAKE PAD
3
Ô
MOUNTING HOLES
The brake spring supplies the pressure to the brake
lever and brake pad to stop the flywheel.
MECHANISM FULL DOWN
BEFORE SCREWS TORQUED
The control cable transfers the motion of the engine/
blade control bail to the brake system.
ELECTRIC START INTERLOCK SWITCH
Ô
4
SERVICE
Service on part or all of the flywheel brake assembly will require a partial disassembly of the engine to allow the
flywheel and brake bracket to be removed.
Remove the necessary components using steps 1-8 as outlined in Chapter 9 under "Disassembly".
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BRAKE BRACKET ASSEMBLY
Late production brake brackets are serviceable only by installing a complete brake bracket assembly.
On serviceable brake brackets, continue by removing the alignment tool. Release the spring tension by unhooking
the short end of the spring from bracket with a pliers. Remove the “E” clip from the brake pad shaft. Slide the pad
lever from the shaft and unhook the link. Inspect the brake pad for dirt, oil or grease contamination. If the pad is
contaminated, or if there is less than .060" (1.524 mm) thickness of brake pad material at the pad's thinnest point,
replacement is necessary. The brake pad is bonded to the brake lever and must be replaced as an assembly.
Rehook the link, install the brake lever and pad assembly, install the "E" clip, rehook the short end of the spring
and continue to reassemble the brake system in the reverse order of disassembly.
IGNITION GROUNDOUT TERMINAL
Inspect the terminal grounding wire for proper alignment
and contact with the brake arm. Insure that all electrical
connections are clean and secure (diag. 5).
GROUNDING
CLIP POSITION
TOP VIEW
LINKAGE
STARTER INTERLOCK SWITCH
The engine/blade control must close the interlock switch
before the starter can be engaged. To check the
interlock switch, use an ohmmeter or continuity light
to perform a continuity check. Disconnect the wires off
the switch before performing a continuity check.
Continuity should exist between the two terminals when
the interlock switch button is completely depressed.
No continuity should exist when the button is released.
If the switch fails replace the switch (diag. 6).
To replace the interlock switch, carefully grind the heads
off of the rivets that fasten the interlock switch to the
brake bracket. Remove the rivets from the back side of
brake bracket. Use the self-tapping screws supplied
with the new switch to make threads in the bracket.
Install the interlock switch onto the brake bracket in
the proper position and secure the switch to the brake
bracket with the machine screws supplied. Be careful
not to overtighten the screws as switch breakage can
occur (diag. 6).
BRAKE PAD
5
Ô
MOUNTING HOLES
Ô
MECHANISM FULL DOWN
BEFORE SCREWS TORQUED
ELECTRIC START INTERLOCK SWITCH
6
CONTROL CABLE
If replacing the cable conduit screw with a screw other
than a service part replacement, be certain that the
screw length is not too long as to prevent free travel of
the lever.
SCREW END MUST
NOT BLOCK LEVER
ACTION
Make sure the button on the starter interlock switch is
completely depressed when the control is fully applied.
The cable must provide enough travel so the brake will
contact the flywheel. Some slack should exist in the
cable adjustment to compensate for brake pad wear
(diag. 7).
CABLE CLAMP
SCREW
7
BRAKE BRACKET REPLACEMENT
When installing a inside edge brake bracket assembly,
be sure the slotted holes in the brake bracket are all
the way down on the fasteners. This will properly align
the brake bracket to the flywheel brake surface (diag.
8).
When completed, check for less than 3 second stop
time.
MOUNTING HOLES
Ô
Ô
MECHANISM FULL DOWN
BEFORE SCREWS TORQUED
52
8
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CHAPTER 8 IGNITION
GENERAL INFORMATION
Overhead valve four cycle Tecumseh engines use solid state capacitor discharge modules to provide high
voltage to fire the spark plug. This is an all electronic ignition system with all the components located outside
the flywheel. The modules look similar but are not interchangeable. If necessary, the correct replacement
module should be found using the Master Technician's Parts Manual.
The solid state ignition system consists of flywheel magnets and a flywheel key, charge coil, capacitor, a silicon
controlled rectifier, pulse transformer, trigger coil, high tension lead, and a spark plug. Everything except the
flywheel magnets, key and the spark plug are located in a encapsulated ignition module. This solid state (CDI)
module is protected by epoxy filler from exposure to dirt and moisture. This system requires no maintenance
other than checks of the high tension lead and spark plug.
OPERATION
SOLID STATE IGNITION SYSTEM (CDI)
As the magnets in the flywheel rotate past the charge
coil, electrical energy is produced in the module. The
energy is stored in the capacitor ( approx. 200 volts)
until it is released by an electrical switch (SCR). As
the magnet continues to rotate, it passes past a trigger
coil where a low voltage signal is produced. This low
voltage signal closes the SCR switch, allowing the
energy stored in the capacitor to flow to a transformer
where the voltage is increased from 200 volts to
25,000 volts. This voltage follows along the high
tension lead to the spark plug where it arcs across
the electrodes and ignites the air-fuel mixture (diag.
1).
1
COMPONENTS
The solid state module is a complete unit that
includes the laminations and spark plug wire.
STANDARD
PLUG
OHV
The spark plug is made up of two electrodes. The
outside electrode is grounded and secured to the
threaded sleeve. The center electrode is insulated with
porcelain. The two are separated by an air gap which
creates a resistance. A large voltage from the module
arcs the air gap which causes a spark and ignites the
air-fuel mixture in the cylinder (diag.2).
NOTE: Always consult parts manual for correct plug
and reach.
2
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The flywheel with magnets provide the magnetic flux
(or field) which is necessary to induce voltage and
trigger the module to provide spark.
The flywheel key locates the flywheel to the
crankshaft in the proper position for ignition timing. If
a flywheel key is sheared, or partially sheared, the
engine will not start or can be difficult to start (diag.
3).
NOTE: Always replace flywheel keys by Model and
Specification Number. Tecumseh has some keys that
look similar but affect ignition timing.
3
TESTING PROCEDURE
1. Check for spark using a commercially available
spark tester and following the tester's
recommended procedure.
2. Check the spark plug for cracks in the porcelain,
pitted or burned electrodes, excessive carbon
buildup, and proper .030" (.762 mm) air gap
setting. Replace if questionable. Try to start and
run the engine. If the engine will not start or run
properly proceed to step #3.
3. Attach the spark plug wire to the spark plug
tester and ground the tester as in step #1.
Remove the blower housing, disconnect the
ignition grounding lead at the ignition module.
Reinstall the blower housing and crank the
engine over. If spark occurs, check the ignition
switch, safety interlock switches, or electrical
wiring for shorting to ground.
3/4" (19.05 mm)
MAGNETS
4
4. Check the air gap between the flywheel magnets and the laminations of the ignition module. It should be
.0125" (.3175 mm) or use gauge part # 670297.
5. Check the flywheel magnets for the proper strength using this rough test. Hold a screwdriver at the
extreme end of the handle with the blade down, move the blade to within 3/4 inch (19.05 mm) of the
magnets. If the screwdriver blade is attracted to the magnets, the magnetic strength is satisfactory (diag.
4).
6. Examine the ignition module and lamination assembly for cracks in insulation or other damage, which
would cause shorts or leakage of current.
7. Check the operation of the ignition module using an approved tester following the instructions furnished
with the test unit, or booklets offered by the Tecumseh Products Co. Engine and Transmission Group
Service Division.
Ignition modules are permanently attached to the lamination and must be serviced as an assembly.
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FOUR CYCLE IGNITION TROUBLESHOOTING
Engine runs
erratically or shuts
off, restarts
Engine Will
Not Start
Check for spark
Spark
No Spark
Replace spark plug
Check for the correct spark
plug
Check flywheel and key for
damage or sheared key
Set proper air gap on
ignition module
Test ignition module
for intermittent or
weak spark
Check electric starter and
battery if applicable
Isolate engine from
equipment and repeat
test
Spark
Equipment problem,
check switches, wiring
and equipment controls
No Spark
Engine problem, check
for shorts or grounds in
wiring
Disconnect ignition
ground-out wire at
the igniton module &
repeat test
Check for proper air gap
on ignition module
and repeat test
Check flywheel magnets
for strength
Test ignition module
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SERVICE
To remove the ignition module or the flywheel from
the engine, see Chapter 9 under "Disassembly".
GAP GAUGE
(670256)
SPARK PLUG SERVICE
Spark plugs should be removed, cleaned, and
adjusted periodically.
Check the air gap with a spark plug gap gauge and
adjust accordingly. Set the spark plug gap at .030"
(.762 mm) (diag. 5).
Replace the plug if the points on the base of the plug
are pitted or burned, or if the porcelain is cracked
anywhere.
5
When reinstalling the plug make sure it is clean of all foreign material.
NOTE: DO NOT USE A SAND BLASTER TO CLEAN PLUGS, MICROSCOPIC PARTICLES LEFT IN THE
PLUG CAN SCORE THE ENGINE CYLINDER DURING OPERATION. USE A SOLVENT AND A WIRE BRUSH
TO CLEAN, AND USING EYE PROTECTION, BLOW OUT THOROUGHLY WITH COMPRESSED AIR.
Or replace the spark plug with the proper spark plug. Consult the proper parts breakdown for the spark plug to
be used in the engine being serviced.
Set the spark plug gap at .030" (.762 mm) using a spark plug gap gauge.
Install the spark plug in the engine and tighten it to 180 inch pounds (20.5 Nm) torque. If a torque wrench is not
available, screw the spark plug in as far as possible by hand, and use a spark plug wrench to turn the spark
plug 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn further if using the old spark plug, or 1/2 of a turn further if using a new spark plug.
CONDITIONS CAUSING FREQUENT SPARK PLUG FOULING
1. Carburetor setting is too rich or the air cleaner
is restricted.
2. Partially closed choke shutter.
3. Poor grade of gasoline.
4. Improper fuel.
5. Restricted exhaust system.
Normal
Carbon Deposit
6. Incorrect spark plug.
7. Incorrect spark plug gap.
8. Oil level is too high, or the breather is restricted.
9. Faulty piston rings.
10. Weak ignition system.
56
Worn
Oil Deposit
6
Main Menu
IGNITION TIMING CHECK
In order for an engine to run effectively and efficiently,
the spark must ignite the compressed air-fuel mixture
when the piston is in a specific position to deliver
maximum power. This position is known as Before
Top Dead Center (BTDC). If the mixture is ignited too
soon, kickback can be experienced due to preignition.
If the mixture is ignited too late, loss of power can be
experienced due to retarded spark. A partially sheared
or the wrong flywheel key can cause kickback, loss
of power, or an inability to start the engine with a good
spark. Check the flywheel key if one of these
symptoms exist. See Chapter 9 under "Service" for
the disassembly procedure.
Timing on a solid state module is not adjustable. The
air gap check consists of having the proper .0125"
(.3175 mm) air gap gauge, part # 670297 between
the flywheel magnets and the laminations of the
module while tightening the mounting screws to the
proper torque. Remove the air gap gauge and rotate
the flywheel to check for any possible striking points.
If none are found, the air gap is set correctly and the
air gap check is completed (diag. 7).
.0125"
(.3175 mm)
7
SERVICE TIPS
DO NOT:
Interchange flywheels, flywheel keys, or spark plugs.
Use flywheels with cooling fins that are broken off.
Use a standard business card as an air gap gauge.
Attempt to reglue the spark plug lead back into a solid state module.
Store a solid state module within 20 feet (6.1 meters) of an unshielded welder.
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CHAPTER 9 INTERNAL ENGINE AND CYLINDER
GENERAL INFORMATION
This chapter covers the cylinder block, piston and rod assemblies, cylinder head, crankshaft, camshaft, valve
train, breather, cylinder cover, flywheel, counterbalance systems, and lubrication systems. The governors and
the governor systems are covered in Chapter 4.
All Tecumseh engines covered in this manual are four cycle engines with the valves in the engine head. The
crankshaft position is designated as either horizontal or vertical as the engine rests on its base. The engines
identified by decals or model as XL (Extra Life) or XL/C (Extra Life / Commercial ) are made using aluminum
alloy diecast around a cast iron cylinder liner. However, not all engines with cast iron cylinder liners are identified
as XL or XL/C.
OPERATION
4-CYCLE ENGINE THEORY
All 4-cycle engines require four piston strokes or
cycles to complete one power cycle. The flywheel or
the equipment load on the crankshaft provides the
inertia to keep the engine running smoothly between
power strokes.
The engine camshaft gear is twice as large as the
mating gear on the crankshaft to allow proper engine
valve timing for each cycle. The crankshaft makes
two revolutions for every camshaft revolution.
1
1. INTAKE. The intake valve is open and the
exhaust valve is closed. The piston is
traveling downward creating a low pressure
area, drawing the air-fuel mixture from the
carburetor into the cylinder area above the
piston (diag. 1).
2. COMPRESSION. As the piston reaches
Bottom Dead Center (BDC) the intake valve
closes. The piston then rises, compressing
the air-fuel mixture trapped in the combustion
chamber due to both valves being closed
(diag. 2).
3. POWER. During this piston stroke both valves
remain closed. As the piston reaches the
Before Top Dead Center (BTDC) ignition
point, the spark plug fires, igniting the air-fuel
mixture. In the time it takes to ignite all the
available fuel, the piston has moved to Top
Dead Center (TDC) ready to take the full
combustive force of the fuel for maximum
power during downward piston travel. The
expanding gases force the piston down (diag.
3).
2
3
4. EXHAUST. The exhaust valve opens. As the
piston starts to the top of the cylinder, the
exhaust gases are forced out (diag. 4).
After the piston reaches Top Dead Center (TDC), the
four cycle process will begin again as the piston
moves downward and the intake valve opens.
4
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LUBRICATION SYSTEMS
The lubrication system used with all Tecumseh
horizontal crankshaft engines covered in this manual
utilize a splash type system. An oil dipper on the
connecting rod splashes oil in the crankcase to
lubricate all internal moving parts. The oil dipper is
either bolted on or may be cast on to the cap with one
of the rod bolts (diag. 6).
All vertical shaft engines use a positive displacement
plunger oil pump or a rotary oil pump. Oil is pumped
from the bottom of the crankcase, up through the
camshaft and over to the top main bearing. Oil under
pressure lubricates the top crankshaft main bearing
and camshaft upper bearing (diag. 7). A crankshaft
drilling also provides oil to the crankpin journal on
engine models OHV 13.5 -16.5.
On all Tecumseh vertical shaft 4-cycle engines, the
oil is sprayed out under pressure through a small hole
between the top camshaft and crankshaft bearing to
lubricate the piston, connecting rod, and other internal
parts (diag. 5).
The plunger style oil pump is located on an eccentric
on the camshaft. As the camshaft rotates, the
eccentric moves the barrel back and forth on the
plunger forcing oil through the hole in the center of
the camshaft. The ball on the end of the plunger is
anchored in a recess in the cylinder flange (diag. 8).
DIPPER
SPRAY
MIST HOLE
CRANKSHAFT
PASSAGE
6
MAIN BEARING
OIL GROOVE
PLUG
CRANKSHAFT
OIL PASSAGE
CAMSHAFT
DRILLED
CAMSHAFT
PASSAGE
BARREL TYPE
LUBRICATION
PUMP
7
ASSEMBLE PUMP HOUSING
WITH INSIDE CHAMFER
TOWARD CAMSHAFT GEAR
The rotary pump is driven by the camshaft. It uses a
lobed gear in a rotating ring to provide positive oil
displacement (diag. 9).
SPRAY
MIST HOLE
8
FLAT
OIL
DRAIN
HOLE
NOTE: INSTALL OIL PUMP AFTER THE SUMP IS ON
9
5
COUNTERBALANCE SYSTEMS
Some Tecumseh engines may be equipped with an
Ultra-Balance® counterbalance system. This system
uses a single weighted shaft that is driven off the
crankshaft. This shaft's function is to counteract the
imbalance caused by the counterweights on the
crankshaft (diag. 10).
A dual shaft counterbalance is also used on some
engine models. A gear on the crankshaft drives the
counterbalance with the thicker gear, which in turn
drives the second counter balance shaft. For timing
of either counterbalance system, see " Engine
Assembly Procedure " in the Service section of this
chapter.
DRIVE
GEAR
COUNTERBALANCE
SHAFT
GOVERNOR
FLANGE
CAMSHAFT
10
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COMPONENTS
The cylinder block houses the piston, crankshaft, and along with the cylinder cover all the internal components.
The block is a one piece diecast aluminum alloy cylinder casting which may have a cast iron liner (diag. 10).
The piston transmits the force of the burning and expanding gases through the connecting rod to the crankshaft.
The piston rings provide the seal between the cylinder wall and the piston. The rings keep the combustion
pressures from entering the crankcase and also wipe the oil off the cylinder wall and return it to the sump.
The connecting rod assembly is the link between the piston (piston pin) and the crankshaft.
The cylinder head is a one piece aluminum alloy casting that is bolted to the top of the cylinder block. The
overhead design contains all of the valve train except for the camshaft, lifters, and push rods.
The crankshaft converts the up and down piston movement to the rotational force (torque) by an offset crankpin
or rod journal.
The camshaft lobes push the lifters at the proper time to allow air and fuel in and exhaust out of the cylinder.
Teeth on the camshaft gear time the camshaft to the crankshaft.
The valves allow air-fuel mixture to enter the cylinder and exhaust gases to exit. The valves provide a positive
seal when closed.
The valve springs return the valves to the closed position and must be strong enough to maintain valve lifter
and cam lobe contact. The valve retainers lock the spring to the valve stem.
The valve lifters maintain contact on the camshaft, move the push rods to pivot the rocker arms and move
the valves.
The crankcase breather is a one way check valve that allows air out and prevents air from coming in. It allows
the engine to develop a partial vacuum in the crankcase during operation.
The cylinder cover provides the bearing surface for the power take off (P.T.O.) end of the crankshaft and
camshaft. This bolted on cover is removed to provide access to all internal components.
The oil pump (vertical shaft only) consists of a steel plunger and a nylon or aluminum housing that rides an
offset on the camshaft. The rotary pump consists of a lobed gear in a rotating ring that is driven by the camshaft.
The flywheel provides the mass to smooth the effects of one power stroke every other crankshaft revolution.
Flywheels are made of aluminum alloy or cast iron. The flywheel fins act as a fan to cool the engine.
CHAMPFER UP
TOWARD CAM
SHAFT
ROTOR
OIL SEAL
REMOVED
ROTARY PUMP
PUSH ROD
GUIDE PLATE
RING
SNAP RING
PUSHRODS
LIFTERS
CAMSHAFT
VALVES
CRANKCASE BREATHER
CRANKSHAFT
FLYWHEEL
60
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Main Menu
ENGINE OPERATION PROBLEMS
ENGINE KNOCKS
OVERHEATS
SURGES OR RUNS UNEVENLY
Associated equipment loose or
improperly adjusted
Excessive engine loading
Fuel cap vent obstructed
Check for excessive carbon in
combustion chamber
Low oil level or wrong viscosity oil
Dirty carburetor or air filter
Loose flywheel examine key, key way
and proper flywheel nut torque
Cooling air flow obstructed or clogged
cooling fins
Carburetor improperly adjusted
Ignition timing or
incorrect spark plug
Carburetor improperly adjusted or
improper RPM setting*
Governor sticking, binding or improper
RPM setting
Loose or worn connecting rod
Ignition timing or
incorrect spark plug
Carburetor linkage, shafts or shutters
sticking or binding
Worn cylinder
Carbon in the combustion chamber
Intermittent spark, check ignition or
incorrect spark plug
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
Lean carb setting causing overheating
(adjustable carb)
Oil level above full
Piston rings worn
Wrong viscosity oil
Worn or glazed cylinder
Excessive engine speed
Valve guides worn excessively
Engine cooling fins dirty causing
overheating
Breather damaged, dirty or improperly
installed
Damaged gaskets, seals or "O" rings
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ENGINE OPERATION PROBLEMS
ENGINE MISFIRES
ENGINE VIBRATES EXCESSIVELY
BREATHER PASSING OIL
Carburetor improperly adjusted
Bent crankshaft
Oil level too high
Wrong or fouled spark plug
Attached equipment out of balance
Excessive RPM or improper governor
setting
Valves sticking or not seating properly
Loose mounting bolts
Damaged gaskets, seals or "O" rings
If applicable counter balance not
properly aligned
Breather damaged, dirty or improperly
installed
Ignition timing or
incorrect spark plug
Excessive carbon build up
Piston rings not properly seated or ring
end gaps are aligned
Improper Valve Lash
Weak valve spring
Angle of operation too severe
LACKS POWER
Air intake obstructed
Lack or lubrication or improper
lubrication
Carburetor improperly adjusted
Exhaust Obstructed
Improper valve lash
Loss of compression (worn rings,
blown head gasket)
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TESTING
ENGINE KNOCKS
1. Check the blade hub, blade adapter, or crankshaft coupler for loose fit, loose bolts, or crankshaft key
damage. Remove, inspect, replace if necessary. Reinstall and re-torque the bolts to the proper torque.
2. Check the flywheel key and the flywheel and crankshaft keyway for wear or partial shearing. Replace
if any damage is evident. Tighten the flywheel nut to the proper torque.
3. Check for the correct ignition module air gap.
4. Remove the cylinder head and check for excessive carbon in the combustion chamber. Also check
that the head gasket fit is correct, and the spark plug for proper reach and heat range (correct spark
plug for the engine).
5. Check for the proper valve lash using a feeler gauge.
6. Check the internal components (piston, cylinder, connecting rod, crankshaft journal) for excessive
clearance. See Chapter 10 under "Specifications".
ENGINE OVERHEATS
1. Make sure the engine is not being overloaded. Remove excess load (sharpen blades, limit operation
speed, process less material).
2. Check the oil level and viscosity. Add or replace as necessary.
3. Check for clogged cooling fins or obstructions to the air flow. Remove the blower housing, clean and
reinstall.
4. Check the carburetor for correct adjustment or remove and clean the carburetor using tag wire and
compressed air. See Chapter 3 under "Service."
5. Check the engine R.P.M. setting using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the R.P.M.
settings found on microfiche card #30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust
as necessary.
6. Check the ignition timing. See Chapter 8 "Ignition - Service."
7. Remove the cylinder head to check for excessive carbon buildup or a leaking head gasket. Clean or
replace as necessary.
SURGES or RUNS UNEVENLY
1. Check the fuel cap to make sure it is venting. Loosen the cap and retry engine operation.
2. Replace or clean the air filter.
3. Check the carburetor adjustment or clean the carburetor. See Chapter 3 under "Service."
4. Check the engine R.P.M. setting using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the R.P.M.
settings found on microfiche card # 30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust
as necessary.
5. Visually check all linkages. Check the governor shaft, throttle shaft, or pivot points for binding.
6. Check the ignition module operation using a gap type tester installed between the high tension lead
and spark plug. Check for intermittent spark.
ENGINE MISFIRES
1. Check the spark plug for the proper application or a fouled condition. Replace if questionable.
2. Reset the carburetor following the adjustment procedure or clean the carburetor. See Chapter 3 under
"Service."
3. Check the ignition timing. See Chapter 8 under "Service."
4. Check for carbon buildup in the combustion chamber.
5. Check valve lash. Inspect the valves and valve seats for leakage. Check for scoring or discoloration
on the valve stem in the valve guide area. Recut the valves and seats if questionable. See "Valve
Service" in this chapter.
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ENGINE VIBRATES EXCESSIVELY
1. Remove the spark plug wire. Check the engine crankshaft on the PTO end for bends using a straight
edge, square or a dial indicator. Blades or adapters must be removed. Significant deflection will cause
a vibration problem.
2. Check the engine mounting bolts, make sure they are tight.
3. Remove and check the attached equipment for an out of balance condition.
4. If the engine is equipped with a counterbalance shaft, check the gear timing to determine if the
counterbalance is out of time.
BREATHER PASSING OIL
1. Check the oil level, make sure the engine is
not overfilled. Also verify that the viscosity
rating on the container of the oil being used
is to specification.
2 and 4-CYCLE RPM SETTINGS
30
2. Check the angle of operation. Avoid
prolonged use at a severe angle.
3. Check the engine R.P.M. setting for excessive
R.P.M. using a vibratach or other tachometer
and compare it to the R.P.M. settings found
on microfiche card # 30 according to the
engine model and specification number.
Adjust the high and low R.P.M. as necessary.
4. Check for leaking or damaged gaskets, seals,
or "O"-rings. External leaks may not be
evident; however, the leak may prevent the
engine from achieving a partial crankcase
vacuum.
5. Check the breather for damage, dirty
condition, or improper installation. The oil
return hole(s) must face down.
NOTE: MICROFICHE CARD 30 RPM'S ARE NOT ON
PAPER
NOTE: RPM SETTINGS CAN ALSO BE FOUND ON
THE COMPUTERIZED PARTS LOOK UP SYSTEMS.
6. Check the engine compression using a
compression tester. If the engine has weak
compression, determine the cause of weak
compression: worn rings, leaking head
gasket, or leaking valves. Follow the
compression tester's procedure.
11
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION
1. Check the oil level, oil viscosity on the container of the oil being used, and oil condition. Replace and
fill to the proper level.
2. Check the angle of operation. Avoid prolonged use at a severe angle.
3. Check for leaking or damaged gaskets, seals, or "O"-rings. External leaks may not be evident, however,
the leak may prevent the engine from achieving a partial crankcase vacuum.
4. Check the engine R.P.M. setting using a vibratach or other tachometer and compare it to the R.P.M.
settings found on microfiche card # 30 according to the engine model and specification number. Adjust
as necessary. The computer parts lookup systems also have RPM information listed in each individual
engine parts list.
5. Check the breather for damage, dirty condition, or improper installation. The oil return hole(s) must
face down.
6. Clean the cooling fins to prevent overheating.
7. Check the carburetor setting causing a lean running condition, overheating the engine.
8. Check the engine compression using a compression tester. If the engine has weak compression,
determine the cause of weak compression: worn rings, leaking head gasket, or leaking valves. Follow
the compression tester's procedure.
9. Check the valve guide clearance for excessive wear.
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LACKS POWER
1. Check the air intake for an obstruction (dirty filter, oil saturated filter, other debris).
2. Check the oil level, oil viscosity on the container of the oil being used and oil condition. Replace and fill
to the proper level.
3. Readjust the carburetor or remove the carburetor for cleaning. See Chapter 3 under "Service."
4. Check the exhaust port or muffler for a restriction preventing proper exhaust flow.
5. Check the engine valve lash. Reset the valves at the proper lash.
6. Check the valves for proper seating and valve guide clearance. Recondition the valves and seats.
Replace the valves if necessary. See "Cylinder Head and Valve Train Service" in this chapter.
7. Check the ignition timing. Check the flywheel key for partial shearing.
SERVICE
SOCKET WRENCH
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
FLYWHEEL
The following procedures apply to most engine
models. Actual procedure may vary.
1. Disconnect the high tension lead from the spark
plug. Remove the spark plug.
2. Drain the oil from the crankcase. Drain or shut
off the fuel supply.
3. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
4. Remove the fuel tank if it is attached to the
engine. Fuel tanks may be held on with bolts,
screws, or some models require taps upward with
a soft face hammer loosening the plastic tank
wedges in the blower housing slots.
FLYWHEEL
TOOL
12
5. Remove the blower housing by first unscrewing
the screw holding the dipstick tube to the blower
housing and removing the remaining bolts
holding on the blower housing.
6. Unplug the ignition kill wire from the terminal on
top of the ignition module and unbolt the ignition
module.
METAL HAMMER
KNOCK OFF TOOL
7. Locate the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) on
the compression stroke for easier valve train
service.
8. Relieve the compliance brake pressure on the
flywheel if applicable. Compress the spring by
moving the lever toward the spark plug end and
when the hole in the lever aligns with the hole in
the bracket secure the lever in this position with
alignment tool part # 670298.
9. Remove the flywheel nut, washer, and starter
cup. Use a part # 670305 strap wrench to hold
the flywheel from turning (diag. 12). Thread the
appropriate flywheel knock-off tool (7/16" / 11.112
mm use part # 670103, 1/2" / 12.7 mm use part
# 670169, 5/8" / 15.875 mm use part # 670314,
11/16" / 17.462 mm use part # 670329) on the
crankshaft until it bottoms out, then unthread it
one complete turn. Lift upward under the flywheel
using a large screwdriver while avoiding contact
with the alternator coils or magnets, and tap
sharply and squarely on the knock-off tool to
break the flywheel loose. If necessary, rotate the
flywheel a half turn and repeat until it loosens
(diag. 13). A flywheel puller (part # 670306) may
be used on flywheels with cored holes (diag. 14).
NOTE: DO NOT USE A JAW TYPE PULLER.
SCREWDRIVER
TO RAISE
FLYWHEEL
13
14
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10. Remove the flywheel key and alternator if
equipped, and baffle plate.
11. Remove the muffler.
12. Remove the intake pipe, spacer if equipped, and
the carburetor. Be careful not to bend or
damage the linkage when removing. Mark the
hookup points or diagram the linkage
arrangement to aid in reassembly.
13. Remove the head by first removing the valve
cover. The push rod guide plate must be
removed to access one of the head bolts.
Remove the rocker arms by loosening the two
locking nuts or allen head screws ( use a 7/16"
wrench on OHH and OVRM, OHV 11-13 use a
1/2 wrench, OHV13.5 - 17 use a 3/16" allen
wrench ). Remove the rocker arm nuts or rocker
arm bearings followed by the rocker arms,
rocker arm studs, guide plate, and push rods.
Remove the head bolts, head, and head gasket.
NOTE: ON MOST OHV ENGINES THE
EXHAUST PUSH ROD CAN ONLY BE
REMOVED AFTER THE HEAD IS OFF. YOU
MUST HAVE IT BACK IN FOR RE-ASSEMBLY.
On engine models OHM, OHSK80 - 130, OVM,
OVXL and OHV, the valve springs, caps,
retainers, and retainer screw must be removed
to allow the rocker box to separate from the
head. Remove the jam nut, adjusting nut, rocker
arm bearings, rocker arms, push rods, guide
plate, and the rocker arm retainer screw.
Next to prevent valve or piston damage turn
the piston down in the cylinder. Then place a
3/4" (19.05 mm) deep socket over the valve cap
and strike the top with a steel hammer (diag.
15). This action loosens the cap. Remove the
cap, retainers, and valve springs. Remove the
rocker arm housing, head bolts, head, head
gasket and valves. Notice the "O"rings used to
seal the rocker box , valve stems, and push
rod tubes.
14. Remove the crankcase breather if necessary.
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Main Menu
15. Remove the cylinder cover or mounting flange
using a seal protector positioned on the seal to
prevent seal damage. The crankshaft must be
free of rust or scale to slide the cover or flange
off the crankshaft. OHH engines with a ball
bearing on the P.T.O. end of the crankshaft
require the oil seal and the snap ring to be
removed prior to the cylinder cover removal. For
engines equipped with 8-1/2:1 gear reduction,
turn the crankshaft to roll the reduction shaft gear
off the crankshaft worm gear when removing the
cylinder flange (diag. 16, 17, 18, 19).
OIL SLEEVE TOOL
MOUNTING FLANGE
OIL SEAL
16
16. On engines equipped with 8-1/2 :1 gear
reduction, remove the auxiliary shaft from the
cover by removing the retaining ring and sliding
the shaft out of the washers and drive gear.
17. Align the timing marks on the camshaft and
crankshaft gears and remove the internal
components (diag. 20).
18. Remove the lifters, rod cap, and counterbalance
shaft or gears if applicable.
19. Before removing the piston, remove any carbon
from the top of the cylinder bore to prevent ring
breakage. Push the piston out the top of the
cylinder bore.
20. Remove the valves from the head on models
OHH and OVRM by supporting the valves with
fingers while compressing the valve springs, one
at a time, with thumbs. Slide the large opening
in the retainer toward the valve stem to remove
(diag. 21). On all other overhead valve engine
models, place a 3/4" (19.05 mm) deep socket
over the valve cap and strike the top with a steel
hammer. This action loosens the cap. Remove
the cap, retainers, and valve springs. The valve
springs must be assembled on the same valve
they are removed from (diag. 15).
GEAR
17
WORM GEAR
18
OIL SEAL REMOVED
SNAP RING
19
TIMING MARK
BEVELED TOOTH
CRANKSHAFT
GEAR
CAMSHAFT
GEAR
20
21
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CYLINDERS
Visually check the cylinder for broken or cracked fins
or a scored cylinder bore. Check the main bearing for
wear or scoring. If the main bearing is worn or scored
it can be replaced on some models. See "Crankshaft
Bearing Service" in this chapter.
Use a dial bore gauge or transfer gauge with a
micrometer to accurately measure the cylinder bore.
Measure in the piston travel area approximately 1/2"
to 3/4" (12.7-19.05 mm) from the top and the bottom
. Measure at 90 degrees to the piston pin, 45 degrees
to the piston pin, and even with the piston pin as the
piston would appear when assembled. A rigid hone
is recommended to "true" any cylinder irregularities.
If the cylinder bore is worn more than .005" (.127 mm)
oversize, out of round or scored, it should be replaced
or re-sized to .010" or .020" (.254-.508 mm) oversize.
In some cases engines are built with oversize
cylinders. If the cylinder is oversize, the oversize value
will be imprinted in the top of the cylinder (diag. 22).
.010
.010
22
To recondition a cylinder, use a commercially available hone of the proper size . Chuck the hone in a drill press
with a spindle speed of about 600 R.P.M. Tecumseh recommends 380 grit for finish in a standard cross hatch.
Start with coarse stones and center the cylinder under the drill press spindle. Lower the hone so the lower end
of the stones contacts the lowest point in the cylinder bore.
Rotate the adjusting nut so that the stones touch the cylinder wall and begin honing at the bottom of the
cylinder. A light honing oil should be used to lubricate and cool while honing. Move the hone up and down at
a rate of 50 strokes per minute to avoid putting ridges in the cylinder wall. Every fourth or fifth stroke, move the
hone far enough to extend the stones one inch beyond the top and bottom of the cylinder bore.
Check the bore diameter every twenty or thirty strokes for size and a 350 - 450 crosshatch pattern. If the stones
collect metal, clean the stones with a wire brush when the hone is removed.
If cylinder oversizing is needed we recommend boring the cylinder. This service is offered by many Service
Dealers. You also may wish to contact a local machine shop.
Clean the cylinder and crankcase with warm, soapy water, rinse with clean water, and dry thoroughly. Continue
the cleaning procedure until a clean white cloth wiped on any internal surface reveals no honing residue or dirt.
Replace the piston and the piston rings with the correct oversize parts as indicated in the parts manual.
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CYLINDER HEAD AND VALVE TRAIN
SERVICE
Check the cylinder head for warpage by placing the
head on a precision flat surface. If warped in excess
of .005" (.127mm), replace the head. Slight warpage
can be corrected by placing a sheet of #400 wet /dry
sandpaper on a precision flat surface and rubbing the
head gasket surface in a circular pattern until the entire
gasket surface shows evidence of sanding. A small
amount of honing oil on the sandpaper will make it
easier to slide the head. Always replace the head
gasket and torque the head bolts in 60 inch pound
(6.7 Nm) increments in the numbered sequence
torques in specification section (diag. 23 & 24).
3
5
1
4
2
TORQUE SEQUENCE
OVRM / OHH, OHSK50 - 70
23
4
2
Valves, Springs, And Push Rods
The valves should be checked for proper lash, sealing,
and wear. Valve condition is critical for proper engine
performance. Valve lash should be checked before
removal of the engine head if any of the following
conditions are experienced; a popping is heard through
the intake or exhaust, an engine kickback is
experienced, or when excessive valve train noise is
heard.
5
1
3
When servicing the valves, all carbon should be
removed from the valve head and stem. If the valves
have been checked and are in a usable condition, the
valve face should be ground using a valve grinder to
a 45 degree angle. If after grinding the valve face the
margin is less than 1/32 of an inch (.794 mm), the
valve should be replaced (diag. 25).
Valves are not identical. Valves marked "EX" or "X"
are installed in the exhaust valve location. Valves
marked "I" are installed in the intake valve location. If
the valves are unmarked, the smaller valve (head) is
installed in the exhaust valve location.
If the spring has dampening coils, the valve spring
should be installed with the dampening coils away from
the valve cap and retainers (diag. 26).
The valve springs should be checked for both ends
being parallel and the free length being at least 1.105"
(28.067 mm) for OHH and OVRM engines, 1.980"
(50.292 mm for OHM, OVM, OHSK, OVXL, and OHV
engines when the valves are removed for service.
Replace the springs if necessary.
6
TORQUE SEQUENCE
OHV 11 - 17, OHM, OHSK80 - 130
Valve lash (between the rocker arm and valve stem)
should be set or checked when the engine is cold.
The piston should be at T.D.C. on the compression
stroke (both valves closed). See specification section.
24
MARGIN
450
1/32"
(.794 mm)
MINIMUM
DIMENSION
FACE
STEM
FREE LENGTH
OVRM/OHH/
OHSK50-70
1.105" (28.067 mm)
25
DAMPENING COILS
LOCATED CLOSER
TOGETHER
THIS END MUST
FACE TOWARD THE
STATIONARY PART
OF THE ENGINE
(CYLINDER HEAD)
ALL OTHERS 1.980" (50.292 mm)
26
The push rods should be checked for straightness and
the ends for wear. If the push rod ends are worn or
damaged, inspect the corresponding rocker arm socket
or valve lifter for wear. Replace if necessary.
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PISTONS, RINGS, AND CONNECTING
RODS
INDICATES
.010" (.254 mm)
OVERSIZE PISTON
Piston
The piston should be checked for wear by measuring
near the bottom of the skirt 90 degrees from the piston
pin hole with a micrometer. Check the ring side
clearance using a feeler gauge with a new ring. Clean
all carbon from the piston top and the ring grooves
before measuring. Visually inspect the piston skirt area
for scoring or scratches from dirt ingestion. If scoring
or deep scratches are evident, replace the piston.
PISTON MEASUREMENTS ARE TAKEN AT
BOTTOM OF SKIRT 900 FROM WRIST PIN HOLE
27
If the cylinder bore needs re-sizing, an oversize piston
will be necessary. Oversize pistons are identified by
the imprinted decimal oversize value imprinted on the
top of the piston (diag. 27).
Piston Rings
CYLINDER
After the cylinder bore diameter has been checked
and is acceptable to rebuild, the ring end gap should
be checked using new rings. Place a new
compression ring squarely in the center of the ring
travel area. Use the piston upside down to push the
ring down (diag. 28) and measure the gap with a feeler
gauge. The ring end gap must be within the
specification to have adequate oil control (diag. 29).
This procedure will assure correct piston ring end gap
measurement. Ring side clearance should also be
checked with a feeler gauge when using new rings
with an old piston (diag. 30).
PISTON
PISTON RING
28
Replace the rings in sets and install the piston, rings,
and rod assembly in the cylinder bore with the ring
end gaps staggered. When installing new rings in a
used cylinder, the cylinder wall should be de-glazed
using a commercially available de-glazing tool or
hone.
Use a ring expander to remove and replace the rings.
Do not spread the rings too wide or breakage will result.
29
CHAMFER
1ST COMPRESSION RING
2ND COMPRESSION RING
Piston Ring Orientation
If the top compression ring has an inside chamfer,
this chamfer must face UP. The second compression
ring will have either an inside chamfer or an outside
notch. The rule to follow is an inside chamfer always
faces up. An outside notch (diag. 31) will face down
or towards the skirt of the piston.
The oil control ring can be installed with either side
up. The expander (if equipped) end gap and the ring
end gap should be staggered (diag. 31).
NOTE: Always stagger the ring end gaps on reassembly.
70
3RD OIL
CONTROL RING
30
EMISSION RINGS
1ST COMPRESSION RING
2ND COMPRESSION RING
3RD OIL
CONTROL RING
31
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CONNECTING RODS
Some engine models have offset piston pins (not
centered) to centralize the combustion force on the
piston. When installing the connecting rod to the piston
it is imperative that the rod be installed correctly. On
engine models OVM, OHM, OHSK120 - 130, and
OVXL, the piston will have an arrow stamped on the
top of the piston. On OHV 13.5 - 17 engines, an arrow
is found on the piston skirt. The arrow on the top of
piston or on the piston skirt must point toward the
push rods or the carburetor side of the engine when
installing it in the cylinder. (diag. 32) If the piston does
not have an arrow, the piston can be installed either
direction on the connecting rod. On all engine
models, the match marks on the connecting rod
and cap must align and face out when installing
the piston assembly into the engine (diag. 33 &
34).
ARROW DIRECTION
32
MATCH MARKS
MATCH
MARKS
On horizontal shaft engines, oil dippers are attached
to the bottom connecting rod bolt. Some engines have
the oil dipper cast in the rod cap. Consult the
specification chart for the proper rod bolt torque when
installing the cap. The rod bolts should be torqued in
50 inch pound (5.65 Nm) increments until the specified
torque is achieved.
33
BEVEL
CHAMFER TOOTH
CRANKSHAFTS AND CAMSHAFTS
Inspect the crankshaft visually and with a micrometer
for wear, scratching, scoring, or out of round condition
at the bearing surfaces. Check for bends on the P.T.O.
end using a straight edge, square or a dial indicator.
CAUTION: NEVER TRY TO STRAIGHTEN A
BENT CRANKSHAFT.
CRANKSHAFT GEAR
CAMSHAFT
GEAR TIMING
MARK
Check the camshaft bearing surfaces for wear using
a micrometer. Inspect the cam lobes for scoring or
excessive wear. If a damaged camshaft is replaced,
the mating crankshaft and governor gear should also
be replaced. If the crankshaft gear is pressed on it is
not serviceable and the crankshaft must also be
replaced.
Clean the camshaft with solvent and blow all parts
and passages dry with compressed air, making sure
that the pins and counterweights are operating freely
and smoothly on mechanical compression relief types.
PUNCH
MARK
SMALL
HOBBING HOLE
35
The timing marks on the camshaft and the crankshaft
gears must be aligned for proper valve timing. (diag.
35 & 36).
Camshafts
34
CRANKSHAFT
GEAR
KEYWAY
CAMSHAFT
GEAR
SMALL HOBBING
HOLE
36
COMPRESSION
RELEASE
MECHANISM
OHH and OHSK50 - 70 engines use serviceable MCR
components and must be assembled as illustrated in
"Assembly" with a thrust washer placed on the
camshaft next to the compression release weight.
NOTE: Some OHH models used on chipper/
shredders may not require a compression release.
37
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Mechanical Compression Release (MCR) camshafts
have a pin located in the camshaft, that extends above
the intake or exhaust cam lobe, to lift the valve to
relieve the engine compression for easier cranking.
When the engine starts, centrifugal force moves the
weight outward and the pin will drop back down. The
engine will now run at full compression (diag. 38).
CAMSHAFT
COMPRESSION
RELEASE
Some OHH engines use a composite camshaft. This
camshaft is used on OHH/OHSK 50-70 engines that
have been manufactured after DOM (date of
manufacture) 7048. This change that took place in
February of 1997 and is basic on the OHH engines,
except those units that use extended camshafts which
will continue to use a cast iron camshaft. A camshaft
kit replaces the old camshaft and includes
compression release components and two light
tension valve springs. It is CRITICAL that the new
valve springs be installed or lobe damage will occur
on the camshaft.
COMPRESSION
RELEASE SPRING
THRUST
WASHER
A
INSERT
SPRING
END "A"
B
NOTE: You must install the thrust washer between
the cover and cam to prevent wear.
Some OVRM engines use a ramp compression
release (RCR) system that works with the intake valve.
The ramp is located on the backside of the intake
cam lobe. The ramp delays the intake valve closure,
resulting in lower emissions and reduced compression
for easier pull starting (diag. 39).
Valve Seats
38
INTAKE
Valve seats are not replaceable. If they are burned,
pitted, or distorted they can be regrounded using a
grinding stone or a valve seat cutting tool. Valve seats
are ground to an angle of 46 degrees to a width of
3/64" (1.91 mm).
39
EXHAUST
The recommended procedure to properly cut a valve seat is to use the Neway Valve Cutting System, which
consists of three different cutters. OVRM and OHH engines have a small combustion chamber and require the
use of a special Neway cutter #103 for the 46 and 31 degree combination cutter. The 60 degree cutter is
Neway cutter # 111. The tapered pilots required are; Neway # 100-1/4-1 for the .249" (6.325 mm) exhaust
guide, and Neway #100-1/4 for the .250" (6.35 mm) intake guide. Consult the cutter's complete procedure
guide for additional information.
First, use the 60 degree cutter to clean and narrow the seat from the bottom to the center (diag. 40).
Second, use the 31 degree cutter to clean and narrow the seat from the top toward the center (diag. 41).
Third, use the 46 degree cutter to cut the seat to a width of 3/64" (1.191 mm) (diag. 42). Check the contact area
of a new or reconditioned valve face on a finished valve seat. Using fingers, snap the valve sharply against the
corresponding valve seat and view the line imprinted on the valve face. The contact area or line should be
continuous and appear on the upper 1/3 of the valve face. Re-cut the seat to move the contact area higher or
lower if necessary and recheck the contact area.
BOTTOM
NARROWING
CUTTER
TOP NARROWING
CUTTER
460
TOP
NARROW
310
SEAT CUTTER
310
460
150
600
BOTTOM
NARROWING
72
3/64" SEAT
SEAT
SEAT
40
41
BOTTOM
NARROW
42
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VALVE LIFTERS
When removing the lifters, mark the lifters to install the lifter in the same position as it was removed from. The
valve lifters may be slightly different lengths. Visually check the lifter for wear on the cam contact surface and
push rod contact surface.
VALVE GUIDES
Engine models OVM, OHM, OHSK80 - 130, and OVXL have valve guides that can be reamed 1/32" (.794 mm)
oversize or be replaced as service parts. All other overhead valve engines have valve guides that are
permanently installed in the cylinder head. If the guides get worn excessively, they can be reamed oversize to
accommodate a 1/32" (.794 mm) oversize valve stem.
The guides should be reamed oversize with a straight shanked hand reamer or low speed drill press. Refer to
the "Table of Specifications" (Chapter 10) to determine the correct oversize dimension. Reamers are available
through your local Tecumseh parts supplier. Consult the tool section in Chapter 11 for the correct part numbers.
The upper and lower valve spring caps must be redrilled to accommodate the oversize valve stems.
After oversizing the valve guides, the valve seats must be recut to align the valve seat to the valve guide.
VALVE GUIDE REMOVAL (WHERE APPLICABLE, CONSULT PARTS MANUAL)
1. Submerge the head in a container of oil so
that both guides are completely covered with
oil.
2. Heat the oil on a hot plate approximately 1520 minutes until the oil begins to smoke. Oil
temperature must be 375 o - 400oF (1900 2040C).
CAUTION : USE PROTECTION FOR EYES
AND HANDS, BE CAREFUL ! THE HOT OIL
AND HEAD CAN EASILY CAUSE BURNS.
GUIDES
HEAD
OIL
HOT PLATE
3. Using a pliers, remove the head from pan of
oil. Carefully drain the excess oil out of the
head. Quickly work the next two steps while
the head is hot to prevent pressing the guides
out with the head too cool. Guides removed
too cool will permanently damage the head
HEAT UNTIL OIL BEGINS TO SMOKE
43
by removing aluminum necessary to hold the
new guides in place.
4. Place the head on the bed of an arbor press on parallels with the snap rings on the long ends of the
guides facing down.
5. Using a 1/2" (12.7 mm) diameter, 6" (15.24 cm) drift punch located in the center of the old valve guide,
push the guide out of the head with the arbor press. Do not allow the drift punch to contact the head
during this step.
VALVE GUIDE INSTALLATION
1. Install the snap rings on the new replacement valve guides. Place the valve guides in a freezer for an
hour or longer to ease assembly.
2. Submerge the head in a container of oil so that the valve guide bores are completely covered with oil.
Heat the container on a hot plate approximately 15-20 minutes until the oil begins to smoke. Oil
temperature must be 375o - 400oF (1900 - 2040C).
CAUTION : USE PROTECTION FOR EYES AND HANDS, BE CAREFUL ! THE HOT OIL AND HEAD
CAN EASILY CAUSE BURNS.
3. Using a pliers, remove the head from pan of oil. Carefully drain the excess oil out of the head. Quickly
work the next two steps while the head is hot to prevent damage to the guides or the head.
4. Place the head on a 6" x 12" (15.24 x 30.5 cm) piece of wood with the head gasket surface down.
5. Insert the new guides in the head with the long end of the guides up. It may be necessary to use a
rubber or rawhide mallet to fully seat the new guide to the snap ring.
NOTE: DO NOT USE A STEEL HAMMER TO SEAT THE NEW GUIDE, GUIDE OR HEAD DAMAGE
WILL RESULT.
6. Allow the head to cool and re-cut both valve seats using a Neway cutter to align the new guides to the
valve seats.
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CRANKCASE BREATHERS
TUBE
The breather element and case can be cleaned using
cleaning solvent. Make sure the small drain hole or
holes are clean and installed down to allow return of
oil back into the crankcase.
CHECK VALVE
ELEMENT
Top Mounted Breather
This type of breather is mounted in the top and rear
of the cylinder block in vertical shaft engines. The
umbrella check valve allows positive pressure to be
vented through the element and out the tube. Most
engines have the breather tube connected to the air
cleaner assembly (diag. 44).
BAFFLE
PRESSURE OUT
OIL RETURN
44
Late production OVRM engines use the rubber boot
and breather tube as a "pop in" design. Mark or note
the location of the breather tube. Use a large flat blade
screwdriver to pry the boot up and lift the breather
assembly out. Be careful not to drop the breather body
out of the rubber boot when removing (diag. 45).
A new breather tube boot is recommended for
replacement to assure proper crankcase seal. Apply
engine oil to the breather tube boot and push the
breather in until the top shoulder of the boot contacts
the crankcase.
OHH engines use an umbrella valve type breather
that is found in the rocker arm cover. Use solvent and
compressed air to clean the area if necessary.
Individual components are serviced only by the
replacement of the complete cover.
45
GASKET
COVER
Side Mounted Breather
BODY
BODY
REED
This type of breather mounts over the valve
compartment and uses a reed style check valve. Clean
the internal element or reed area with solvent and
compressed air if necessary. When installing, the drain
holes must be open and be on the bottom.
On OHV13.5 - 17 engines, align the reed valve and
plate parallel to the top surface of the breather opening
in the crankcase. If the plate has a notched corner,
install the notch toward the P.T.O. side of the engine.
If the plate is marked, install the plate with the mark
facing out. Hold the reed valve and plate in this
position while tightening the screw.
2
1
4
5
FILTER
DRAIN
HOLE
GASKET
COVER TUBE
46
47
BREATHER OUTLET
TO CARB
UMBRELLA
3
74
1 - Valve, Reed
2 - Plate, Limit
3 - Screw
4 - Baffle/Gasket
5 - Cover
48
49
Main Menu
CYLINDER COVER, OIL SEAL, AND BEARING SERVICE
The following procedures, except oil seal replacement, require the engine to be disassembled. See "Engine
Disassembly Procedure" in this chapter.
Cylinder Cover
Clean and inspect the cover, looking for wear and scoring of the bearing surfaces. Measure the bearing
surface diameters using a micrometer and check the specifications for worn or damaged parts. Replace as
necessary.
When reinstalling the cover, apply a drop of Loctite 242 to the cover screw threads and torque the cover
screws to the recommended specification. Always use new gaskets and new oil seals installed using seal
protectors after the cover is removed.
Oil Seal Service
NOTE: BEFORE REMOVING THE OIL SEAL,
CHECK TO SEE IF THE SEAL IS RAISED OR
RECESSED. WHEN INSTALLING A NEW OIL SEAL,
TAP IT INTO POSITION GENTLY UNTIL IT IS
SEATED INTO ITS BOSS. SOME SEALS ARE NOT
POSITIONED FLUSH TO THE CYLINDER COVER.
ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL THE SEAL TOO FAR IN
CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE OIL SEAL AND
ENGINE.
OIL SEAL REMOVER
TOOL: POSITIONED FOR
REMOVAL OF OIL SEAL
OIL SEAL
If the crankshaft is removed from the engine, remove
the old oil seals by tapping them out with a screwdriver
or punch from the inside. If the crankshaft is in place,
remove the seal by using the proper oil seal puller
(diag. 50).
Select the proper seal protector and driver from the
tool list in Chapter 11 to install a new oil seal. Place
the oil seal over the protector and place it over the
crankshaft. Drive the seal into position using the
universal driver part no. 670272. The seal protector
will insure that the seal is driven in to the proper depth
(diag. 51).
50
OIL SEAL
DRIVER 670272
OIL SEAL
OIL SEAL
DRIVER
PROTECTOR
51
CRANKSHAFT BEARING SERVICE
Ball Bearing Service
OIL SEAL REMOVED
Remove the two bearing retainer screws and washers.
Remove the ball bearing in the cylinder cover by
pressing the bearing from the outside of the cover
toward the inside using an arbor press.
Install a new ball bearing by pressing the bearing from
the inside of the cover toward the outside until the
bearing contacts the shoulder. Install the two bearing
retainer screws with washers and tighten to 45 in.
lbs. (5.0 Nm) of torque.
SNAP RING
52
75
Main Menu
SERVICE BUSHING
We are supplying this bushing for service repair. After the bushing has been installed, it requires line reaming
to the proper size.
Following the chart below, have a reputable machine shop do this work for you.
BUSHING SIZE CHART
BUSHING SERVICE
PART NUMBER
FINISHED REAM
BORE DIAMETER
30979 .............................................................. .8755 - .8760" (22.226 - 22.250 mm)
31461 .............................................................. 1.0000 - 1.0005" (25.4 - 25.413 mm)
31462 .............................................................. 1.0000 - 1.0005" (25.4 - 25.413 mm)
31546 .............................................................. 1.0000 - 1.0005" (25.4 - 25.413 mm)
33368 .............................................................. 1.1880 - 1.1890" (30.175 - 30.2 mm)
34836 .............................................................. 1.0005 - 1.0010" (25.413 - 25.425 mm)
34837 .............................................................. 1.0005 - 1.0010" (25.413 - 25.425 mm)
35377 .............................................................. 1.3765 - 1.3770" (34.950 - 34.976 mm)
35400 .............................................................. 1.3765 - 1.3770" (34.950 - 34.976 mm)
ENGINE ASSEMBLY
The following procedures apply to most engine
models. Actual procedure may vary.
OIL SEAL
PROTECTOR
1. Use new gaskets and seals at all locations.
Clean all internal engine parts with solvent
and blow dry with compressed air or allow to
dry.
2. Using the correct seal protector (see Chapter
11 under "Tools"), apply engine oil to the
crankshaft bearing surfaces and insert the
tapered end of the crankshaft in the
crankcase. Slide the crankshaft in until it
bottoms.
3. Apply engine oil to the piston skirt, rings,
connecting rod bearing surface, and the
cylinder bore. Using a band type ring
compressor, stagger the ring end gaps,
compress the rings, and push the piston
assembly into the cylinder with the match
marks on the connecting rod facing out of the
crankcase and the arrow on the top of piston
or on the piston skirt pointing toward the push
rod location or the carburetor side of the
engine if applicable. Push the piston
assembly in until the rod is positioned on the
crankshaft rod journal surface.
53
4. Align the match marks on the rod cap and
rod, install the rod cap bolts and dipper if
applicable and tighten the bolts in equal
increments to the specified torque.
MATCH MARKS
76
DURLOCK BOLT
54
Main Menu
5. Assemble the compression release
components to the camshaft on engine
models OHH and OHSK50-70. Install spring
end "A" through the release from the pin side,
insert spring end "B" through the camshaft
gear, and slide the release pin in the small
hole near the center of the cam gear.
Assemble the thrust washer on the camshaft
next to the compression release. (diag. 55)
COMPRESSION
RELEASE
COMPRESSION
RELEASE SPRING
THRUST
WASHER
A
INSERT
SPRING
END "A"
NOTE: Some OHH models used on chipper/
shredders may not require compression
release mechanisms.
6. Some OHV11 - 17 engines come equipped
with a spin on oil filtration system. If the engine
is not equipped with a filter, one may be added
IF THE SUMP HAS AN OIL PASSAGE
COVER. The kit part number 36435A should
be ordered to upgrade the engine if desired.
7. Install the lifters, camshaft, barrel and plunger
style oil pump (chamfered side toward the
gear) if applicable, ultra-balance shaft or dual
balance shafts if applicable. Align the timing
mark or notched tooth on the crankshaft gear
to the mark or hole in the camshaft gear. If
equipped, time the Ultra-balance ® with the
piston at Top Dead Center (T.D.C.). Slide the
drive gear over the keyway in crankshaft while
aligning the timing marks on the gears.
CAMSHAFT
B
55
GASKET
OIL PASSAGE GASKET
SCREW
OIL PUMP
SHAFT
OIL FILTER
OIL PUMP ASSY.
"O" RING
OIL PUMP COVER
56
SCREW
DRIVE GEAR,
CRANKSHAFT
MATCH MARK
THINNER
GEAR
OIL
PASSAGE
COVER
CHAMPFER UP
TOWARD CAM
THICKER
GEAR
57
DUAL SHAFT
COUNTERBALANCE
CAM TIMING
a. Dual Balance Shaft
Time the dual shaft counterbalance system
with the piston at T.D.C. Install the
counterbalance with the thicker gear in the
far right boss in the crankcase and the other
counterbalance shaft with the thinner gear in
the far left boss while aligning the timing
marks. Slide the drive gear over the keyway
in the crankshaft while aligning the timing
mark with the thicker counterbalance gear.
58
NOTE: Engines equipped with rotary oil
pumps must have the drive shaft and
pump assembled after the sump cover is
installed.
ULTRA-BALANCE®
TIMING
59
77
Main Menu
8. Mount the cylinder cover or flange with the
governor gear assembly installed to the
crankcase using dowel pins to position the
cover and a new gasket. Install the cover
down onto the crankcase and slightly rotate
the crankshaft to allow the governor gear to
mesh. Do not force. Apply a drop of blue
Loctite 242 to the cover screw threads and
tighten to the specified torque.
SHAFT
ROTOR
On engines with ball bearings in the cover,
install a thrust washer (if applicable) over the
crankshaft, followed by the retaining ring.
On OHV 13.5 -17 engines, install the oil pump
drive shaft into the slot in the end of the
camshaft. Apply engine oil and install the oil
pump ring and rotor, followed by a new "O"
ring and the pump cover. Tighten the screws
to 50-70 inch pounds (5.5 - 8 Nm) torque.
RING
ROTARY PUMP
60
9. Install the breather assembly.
10. Rotate the crankshaft to place the piston at
Top Dead Center (TDC) on the compression
stroke.
NOTE: Always cut the valve seats, never only
lap the seats.
11. Pre-assemble the valves and spring
assemblies into the cylinder head on all
engine models EXCEPT OHM, OHSK80-130,
OVM, OVXL (diag. 65 on page 79). Use a
small block to support the valves tight to their
seats while placing the head on a flat surface.
For models OHH and OVRM, install the
springs (dampening coils toward the head)
and retainers on the valves and use fingers
to compress the springs until the notch in the
retainer is located in the notch in the valve
stem. Repeat the procedure for other valve.
For OHV models, place the springs
(dampening coils toward the head) over the
valve guide and place the valve caps on the
springs with the larger opening away from the
springs. Use spring compressor tool part #
670315A installed on a rocker arm stud, and
either turn the stud in or secure with a locking
nut as shown so about 1-1/2" (38.1 mm) of
the stud is exposed. Compress the spring and
install the valve retainers to lock the valve to
the valve cap. Repeat the procedure for other
valve.
NOTE: INSTALL OIL PUMP AFTER THE SUMP IS ON
61
62
RETAINERS HELD BY SPRING
TENSION AGAINST THE CAP
RETAINER
CAP
VALVE SPRING
COMPRESSOR TOOL
PART NO. 670315
63
78
Main Menu
Install the cylinder head using a new head
gasket. On OHV 11-13 models, place the
push rods in the block before installing the
head and head gasket. Tighten the head bolts
in the numbered sequence using 60 inch
pound (6.8 Nm) increments to the specified
torque.
NOTE: Tecumseh strongly recommends you
order a complete seal kit. Replace all "O" ring
and gaskets in kit.
DAMPENING COILS
LOCATED CLOSER
TOGETHER
FREE LENGTH
1.980" (50.292 mm)
ALL OTHERS
THIS END MUST
FACE TOWARD THE
STATIONARY PART
OF THE ENGINE
(CYLINDER HEAD)
OVRM/OHH 1.105 (28.067 mm)
64
12. STEPS 12A -12G APPLY ONLY TO ENGINE
MODELS OHM, OHSK80-130, OVM AND
OVXL. CONTINUE WITH STEP 12 FOR
ENGINE MODELS OHH, OVRM AND OHV.
(BLACK)
a. Install the push rods with the cupped ends
of the rods placed on top of the lifters.
Visually check correct placement through
the valve box opening. Use lubricated new
"O" ring seals for both ends of the push
rod tubes and install the push rod tubes in
the crankcase.
TEFLON EXHAUST
(WHITE)
b. Install the valves into the head, and using
a new head gasket, place the head on the
cylinder block. Tighten the head bolts in the
numbered sequence using 60 inch pound
(6.8 Nm) increments to the specified torque.
"O" RINGS
OVM / OHM STYLE
65
RETAINERS HELD BY SPRING
TENSION AGAINST THE CAP
c. Install the rocker arm housing, push rod
guide plate with the legs facing up, new
rocker arm studs with "O" rings under the
guide plate. Install the valve box to head
retaining screw using a flat washer and a
new "O" ring. Tighten the screw and the
studs to the specified torque.
d. Lift each valve up until it contacts the seat
and hold the valve in this position. Use a
12 inch (30.5 cm) piece of fuel line and
wedge one end on each side of the valve
stem through the port opening to hold the
valve.
RETAINER
CAP
VALVE SPRING
COMPRESSOR TOOL
PART NO. 670315
66
e. Bolt the valve spring compressor tool part
# 670315A on a rocker arm stud using the
rocker arm bearing and locking nut.
f. Install the new o-rings (white o-ring on the
exhaust guide) followed by valve spring
caps, valve springs with the closer together
coils toward the head, and valve spring
retainers with the larger opening away from
the engine.
79
Main Menu
g. Compress the valve spring with the tool
and insert the two retainers into the keeper
so the inside ridge of the retainer locks into
the valve stem groove. Repeat the
procedure for the other valve.
3/16" ALLEN
WRENCH
NOTE: TORQUE THE CYLINDER HEAD
FOLLOWING THE SEQUENCE ON
PAGE 69.
7/16" CROWFOOT
WRENCH
13. On engine models OHH and OVRM, install
the push rods on the lifters, and rocker arms
and locking nuts on the rocker arm pivot
screws. Fasten the screw to the head with
the push rod guide plate tabs facing out. Turn
the screws in until slight play exists between
the valve stem and rocker arm.
On OHM, OHSK80-130, OVM, and OVXL
models, install the rocker arms, rocker arm
bearings, and new rocker arm adjusting nuts
on the studs. Tighten the adjusting nut until
slight play exists.
On OHV 11-13 models, install the push rods
on the lifters, place the rocker arms on the
rocker arm screws followed by the locking nut,
washer, and push rod guide plate (with the
tabs up). Turn the screws in until slight play
exists between the valve stem and rocker
arm.
On OHV13.5 -17 models, install the guide
plate with the rocker arm studs and torque to
190 in. lbs. (21.5 Nm). Insert the push rods
in the lifter sockets with the longer steel end
toward the rocker arms. Place the rocker arms
onto the studs with the socket end toward the
push rod and thread the rocker arm bearings
on until excessive play is removed.
67
OHH / OVRM TYPE
LOCKING / ADJUSTING NUT
CROWN DOWN
"O" RING OR GASKET
FEELER
GAUGE
PUSH ROD
GUIDE
VALVE STEM
68
OVM / OHM TYPE
1/2" CROWFOOT
WRENCH
14. Set the valve lash with the engine cold, the
piston at T.D.C., and both valves closed. Insert
the specified feeler gauge between the rocker
arm and valve stem. Adjust until a slight sliding
drag is felt.
On models OHH and OVRM, lock this position
by holding an Allen wrench on the pivot ball
screw while tightening the lock nut to 120 in.
lbs. (13.5 Nm) of torque. A 7/16" (11.1125 mm)
crowfoot will be needed to torque the lock nut.
Rotate the crankshaft at least one full turn to
check push rod movement and valve lash.
On models OVM, OHM and OVXL, with a
1/2" crowfoot, tighten down the rocker arm
studs to 190 in. lbs. (21.5 Nm). Adjust the
rocker arm hex nut with a 1/2" wrench to set
the correct valve lash and tighten the locking
jam nut to 18 in. lbs. (2 Nm). Rotate the
crankshaft at least one full turn to check push
rod movement and valve lash.
On models OHV 11-13, hold the rocker arm
pivot screw using a 7/16" (11.1125 mm)
wrench or socket while using a 1/2" (12.7 mm)
crowfoot to tighten the lock nut to 120 in. lbs
(13.5 Nm) of torque. Rotate the crankshaft at
least one full turn to check push rod movement
and valve lash.
80
OHV 11-13 and OHV 110-135 / OHSK80-130
69
5/32" ALLEN
WRENCH
OHV 13.5 - 17 and OHV135 - 175
70
Main Menu
On models OHV 135 - 175 hold a 1/2"
(12.7 mm) wrench on the rocker arm bearing
while tightening the 5/32" Allen head set screw
to 175 in. lbs. (8.5 Nm) of torque. Rotate the
crankshaft at least one full turn to check push
rod movement and valve lash.
15. Install the rocker arm cover using a new
gasket or o-ring and tighten the screws (with
new "O"rings on OVM, OHM, OVXL) to the
specified torque. Connect the breather hose
to the valve cover fitting on model OHH.
16. Attach the backing plates or baffles. Attach
the governor arm lever if removed.
17. Attach the alternator coil if applicable and
route the wires away from the flywheel area.
18. Install the flywheel spacer if applicable,
flywheel key, flywheel, starter cup if
applicable, bevelled washer (concave surface
in), and flywheel nut. Use strap wrench part
# 670305 to hold the flywheel and tighten
the nut to the specified torque.
19. Install the ignition module using a part #
670297 .0125" (.3175 mm) air gap tool
between the flywheel magnets and the
laminations of the module. Tighten the
mounting screws, remove the tool, and check
for contact while rotating the flywheel. None
should be found. Attach the ignition groundout
lead to the module terminal.
20. Install the blower housing on all engines with
the speed control mounted on the blower
housing or engine block, and attach the
ignition groundout lead at the control if
applicable.
21. Install the intake pipe, speed control,
carburetor, and air cleaner assembly while
hooking the throttle and governor linkage.
Install the blower housing on all engines with
intake pipe mounted speed control brackets.
Check the governor and speed control hookup and adjustment - see Chapter 4 under
"Service".
.0125" (.3175 mm)
AIR GAP
69
REMOVE
BOLTS
SLIDE TANK
FORWARD
70
22. Attach the fuel tank if applicable using bolts
or wedging the tank in the blower housing slots provided. Attach the fuel line and secure with clamps.
23. Slide the fuel line on the carburetor fitting and secure with a clamp. Slide the breather tube on the
carburetor or air cleaner fitting if applicable.
NOTE: If the tank is supplied by the O.E.M. replace the fuel filter. Tecumseh's tanks have a fuel filter
in the tank and service is not necessary.
24. Fill the engine with oil to the full mark on the dipstick. Add fresh fuel to the fuel tank and secure the
cap.
25. Install the spark plug and high tension lead. Mount the engine to the equipment and connect wiring
and control cables. OVRM rotary mower engines require the blade to be secured to the blade hub
adapter and crankshaft before attempting to start the engine.
26. Start the engine and allow it to run approximately five minutes to reach operating temperature. Optimize
the carburetor if adjustable and check for the proper engine speeds.
81
Main Menu
CHAPTER 10
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS AND
SEARS CRAFTSMAN CROSS-REFERENCE
The engine specifications listed on the following pages include tolerances that are
considered acceptable to achieve normal engine operation. Observed values inside the
listed tolerance range are satisfactory and require no adjustments.
OVERHEAD VALVE SEARS CRAFTSMAN CROSS REFERENCE
Craftsman
143.366012
143.366072
143.366202
143.366212
143.366232
143.376012
143.376032
143.376072
143.376082
143.384132
143.384142
143.384152
143.384162
143.384182
143.384192
143.386012
143.386032
143.386092
143.386102
143.386152
143.386162
143.394092
143.394102
143.394112
143.394192
143.394202
143.394212
143.396012
143.396032
143.396062
143.396072
143.396092
143.396112
143.396132
143.404112
143.406012
143.406052
143.406062
143.406072
143.406132
143.406142
82
Tecumseh
OVM120-200004
OVM120-200006
OVM120-200012
OVM120-200014A
OVM120-200015A
OVM120-200017A
OVM120-200012A
OVM120-200006A
OVM120-200018A
OVRM905-42002
OVRM905-42003
OVRM905-42001
OVRM905-42004
OVRM905-42005
OVRM905-42006
OVM120-200020B
OVM120-200006B
OVM120-200014B
OVM120-200018B
OVM120-200015B
OVM120-200022A
OVRM905-42008
OVRM905-42010
OVRM905-42011
OVRM905-42007
OVRM905-42009
OVRM905-42012
OVXL120-202031C
OVXL120-202036C
OVXL120-202034C
OVXL120-202035C
OVM120-200023C
OVXL120-202039C
OVXL120-202040C
OVRM50-52901
OVXL120-202040D
OVXL120-202034D
OVXL120-202035D
OVXL120-202047D
OVXL120-202039D
OVXL120-202049D
Craftsman
143.406152
143.406162
143.414432
143.416012
143.416042
143.416082
143.426092
143.426112
143.426122
143.426142
143.426152
143.426172
143.436032
143.436042
143.436092
143.436102
143.436132
143.436152
143.796112
143.806062
143.816042
143.836052
143.941200
143.941201
143.951600
143.951602
143.951602
143.955003
143.955007
143.961201
143.965007
143.965009
143.965011
143.965013
143.965015
143.965017
143.965019
143.965021
143.965023
143.965501
143.965503
Tecumseh
OVXL120-202050D
OVXL125-202051D
OVRM50-52901A
OVXL120-202056D
OVXL125-202401
OVXL125-202403
OVXL120-202063E
OVXL120-202062E
OVXL125-202064E
OVXL120-202034E
OVXL120-202039E
OVXL125-202067E
OHV125-203013A
OHV125-203012A
OHV125-203015A
OHV125-203018A
OHV125-203020A
OHV125-203023A
OHSK120-222005
OHSK120-222005A
OHSK120-222007B
OHSK120-222015C
OHV125-203023B
OHSK120-222015D
OHV165-204402B
OHV165-204403B
OHV165-204403B
OHH50-68001A
OHH50-68004A
OHSK120-222026E
OHH50-68001B
OHH50-68036B
OHH50-68044B
OHH50-68004B
OHH50-68060B
OHH50-68060C
OHH50-68044C
OHH50-68036C
OHH50-68004C
OHH55-69020A
OHH55-69020B
Craftsman
Tecumseh
143.971200
143.971201
143.971300
143.975003
143.975005
143.975009
143.975501
143.975503
143.976001
143.981200
143.981201
143.985001
143.985005
143.985501
143.985503
143.985505
143.986001
143.986003
143.986702
143.986704
143.986714
143.986716
143.986718
143.991200
143.991201
143.991203
143.991300
143.995007
143.996001
143.996005
143.996007
143.996009
143.996501
143.996503
143.996505
143.996507
OHV125-203023C
OHSK120-222026F
OHV135-206901A
OHH50-68044D
OHH50-68004D
OHH50-68113D
OHSK55-69507A
OHSK55-69509A
OHH60-71101A
OHV125-203023D
OHSK120-223609A
OHH50-68036F
OHH50-68113F
OHH55-69020E
OHSK55-69514B
OHSK55-69514C
OHH60-71101C
OHH60-71116C
OVRM65-22016B
OVRM65-22017B
OVRM65-22020B
OVRM65-22026B
OVRM65-22029B
OHV125-203050D
OHSK125-223701A
OHSK125-223702A
OHV13-203211B
OHH50-68004F
OHH60-71138C
OHH60-71140C
OHH60-71146C
OHH60-71167C
OHSK65-71901A
OHSK65-71902A
OHH65-71702A
OHH65-71704A
143.996702
OVRM105-21024E
Main Menu
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
OVRM40
Specifications
OVRM50-6.75
OVRM105
Standard
Metric
English
mm
10.49
171.93
Note (A) Note (A)
Standard
English
9.06
Metric
mm
148.50
Stroke
1.844
46.838
1.938
Bore
2.500
2.501
63.500
63.525
Displacement (in2) (cc)
OVRM120
OHH50
OHSK50
Standard
Metric
English
mm
10.49
171.93
Standard
English
11.9
Note (A)
Metric
mm
195.04
Note (A)
49.225
1.938
49.225
1.938
49.225
2.625
2.626
Note (B)
66.675
66.700
Note (B)
2.795
2.796
Note (B)
70.993
71.018
Note (B)
2.625
2.626
66.675
66.700
Ignition Module Air Gap
.0125
.3175
.0125
.3175
.0125
.3175
.0125
.3175
Spark Plug Gap
.030
.762
.030
.762
.030
.762
.030
.762
Valve Clearance In./Ex.
.004
.004
.1016
.1016
.004
.004
.1016
.1016
.004
.004
.1016
.1016
.004
.004
.1016
.1016
Valve Seat Angle
Valve Seat Width
Valve Guide Oversize
Dimension
460
.035
.045
INT.
EX.
460
.889
1.143
INT.
EX.
.035
.045
INT.
EX.
460
.889
1.143
INT.
EX.
.035
.045
INT.
EX.
460
.889
1.143
INT.
.035
.045
.889
1.143
7.135
7.155
EX.
7.155 7.104
.2807
.2817
Crankshaft End Play
.006
.027
Note (C)
.1524
.6858
Note (C)
.006
.027
Note (C)
.1524
.6858
Note (C)
.006
.027
Note (C)
.1524
.6858
Note (C)
.006
.027
Note (C)
.1524
.6858
Note (C)
Crankpin Journal Dia.
.8610
.8615
31.869
21.882
.9995
1.000
25.362
25.400
.9995
1.000
25.362
25.400
.9995
1.000
25.362
25.400
Crankshaft Dia. Flywheel
End Main Brg.
.9985
.9990
25.362
25.375
.9985
.9990
25.362
25.375
.9985
.9990
25.362
25.375
.9985
.9990
25.362
25.375
Crankshaft Dia.
P.T.O. Main Brg.
.9985
.9990
25.362
25.375
1.0005
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.0005
1.0010
25.413
25.425
.9985
.9990
25.362
25.375
Conn. Rod Dia. Crank Brg.
.2807
.2787 7.130 7.079
.2807 ..2787
7.130 .7.079 .2807 ..2787 7.130 .7.079
.2817
.2797 7.155 7.104
.2817 .2797
7.155 7.104 .2817 .2797
1.0005
25.413
1.0005
25.413
1.0005
25.413
1.0005
25.413
1.0010
25.425
1.0010
25.425
1.0010
25.425
1.0010
25.425
Camshaft Bearing Diameter
.4975
.4980
12.637
12.649
.4975
.4980
12.637
12.649
.4975
.4980
12.637
12.649
.4970
.4975
12.624
12.637
Piston Dia. Bottom of Skirt
2.4950
2.4520
63.373
63.378
2.6204
2.6220
66.558
66.599
2.6204
2.6220
66.558
66.599
2.6204
2.6220
66.558
66.599
Ring Groove Side Clearance
1st & 2nd Comp.
.0020
.0050
.051
.127
.0020
.0050
.051
.127
.0020
.0050
.051
.127
.0020
.0050
.051
.127
Ring Groove Side Clearance
Bottom Oil
.0050
.0035
.013
.089
.0050
.0035
.013
.089
.0050
.0035
.013
.089
.0050
.0035
.013
.089
Piston Skirt to Cylinder
Clearance
.0040
.0058
.102
.147
.0030
.0056
.076
.142
.0030
.0056
.076
.142
.0030
.0056
.076
.142
Ring End Gap
.010
.020
.254
.508
.010
.020
.254
.508
.010
.020
.254
.508
.007
.017
.178
.432
Cylinder Main Bearing
Diameter
1.0005
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.0005
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.0005
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.0005
1.0010
25.413
25.425
Cylinder Cover / Flange
Main Brg. Diameter
1.0050
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.0050
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.0050
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.0050
1.0010
25.413
25.425
Note A: OVRM60, 21000 spec. numbers with a "B" suffix and all OVRM 65, 22000 spec. numbers have a displacement
of 11.9 (195.04).
Note B: All OVRM 60, 21000 spec. numbers with a "B" suffix and all OVRM 65, 22000 spec. numbers have a
2.795"/2.796 (70.993/71.018) Bore.
Note C: All engines equipped with a ball bearing will have "0" End Play.
83
Main Menu
ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
Specifications
Displacement (in2) (cc)
OHH and
OHSK55 - 70
Standard Metric
English
mm
11.9
195.04
OHSK80 - 110
Note (D)
Standard
Metric
English
mm
19.43
318.46
(Continued)
OHM, OHSK, OVM,
OHV13.5 - 17
OVXL120,130
& OHV11-13
Standard
Metric Standard Metric
English
mm
English
mm
21.82
357.63 29.9
490.06
Stroke
1.938
49.225
2.532
70.993
2.532
70.993
3.00
76.6
Bore
2.795
2.796
70.993
71.018
3.125
3.126
79.375
79.400
3.312
3.313
84.125
84.150
3.562
3.563
90.475
90.500
Ignition Module Air Gap
.0125
.3175
.0125
.3175
.0125
.3175
.0125
.3175
Spark Plug Gap
.030
.762
.030
.762
.030
.762
.030
.762
Valve Clearance In./Ex.
.004
.004
.1016
.1016
.004
.004
.1016
.1016
.004
.004
.1016
.1016
.004
.004
.1016
.1016
Valve Seat Angle
Valve Seat Width
460
460
460
460
.035
.889
.035
.889
.035
.889
.042
1.0671
.045
1.143
.045
1.143
.045
1.143
.052
1.321
Valve Guide Oversize
Dimension
.2807
.2817
7.130
7.155
.3432
.3442
8.717
8.743
.3432
.3442
8.717
8.743
.3432
.3442
8.717
8.743
Crankshaft End Play
.006
.027
.002
.042
.051
.067
.002
.042
.051
.067
.0025
.0335
.064
.851
.1524
.6858
Note (C)
Note (C)
Crankpin Journal Dia.
.9995
1.000
25.362
25.400
1.3740
1.3745
34.900
34.912
1.3740
1.3745
34.900
34.912
1.6223
1.6228
41.206
41.219
Crankshaft Dia. Flywheel
End Main Brg.
.9985
.9990
25.362
25.375
1.3745
1.3750
34.912
34.925
1.3745
1.3750
34.912
34.925
1.6245
1.6250
41.262
41.275
Crankshaft Dia.
P.T.O. Main Brg.
.9985
.9990
25.362
25.375
1.3745
1.3750
34.912
34.925
1.3745
1.3750
34.912
34.925
1.6245
1.6250
41.206
41.275
Conn. Rod Dia. Crank Brg.
1.0005
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.3775
1.3780
34.988
35.001
1.3775
1.3780
34.988
35.001
1.6234
1.6240
41.234
41.250
Camshaft Bearing Diameter
.4970
.4975
12.624
12.637
.6230
.6235
15.824
15.837
.6230
.6235
15.824
15.837
.6235
.6240
15.837
15.850
Piston Dia. Bottom of Skirt
2.7904
2.7920
70.876
70.917
3.1195
3.1205
79.235
79.261
3.3095
3.3105
84.061
84.087
3.5595
3.5605
90.411
90.437
Ring Groove Side Clearance .0020
1st & 2nd Comp.
.0050
.051
.127
.0020
.0040
.051
.127
.0020
.0040
.051
.127
.0020
.0040
.051
.127
Ring Groove Side Clearance
Bottom Oil
.0050
.0035
.013
.089
.0010
.0030
.0254
.076
.0010
.0030
.0254
.076
.0009
.0029
.0229
.074
Piston Skirt to Cylinder
Clearance
.0030
.0056
.076
.142
.0015
.0035
.038
.089
.0015
.0035
.038
.089
.0015
.0030
.038
.089
Ring End Gap
.007
.017
.178
.432
.010
.020
.254
.508
.010
.020
.254
.508
.012
.022
.305
.559
Cylinder Main Bearing
Diameter
1.0005
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.3765
1.3770
34.963
34.976
1.3765
1.3770
34.963
34.976
1.6265
1.6270
41.313
41.326
Cylinder Cover / Flange
Main Brg. Diameter
1.0050
1.0010
25.413
25.425
1.3765
1.3770
34.963
34.976
1.3765
1.3770
34.963
34.976
1.6265
1.6270
41.313
41.326
Note A: OVRM60, 21000 spec. numbers with a "B" suffix and all OVRM 65, 22000 spec. numbers have a displacement
of 11.9 (195.04).
Note B: All OVRM 60, 21000 spec. numbers with a "B" suffix and all OVRM 65, 22000 spec. numbers have a
2.795"/2.796 (70.993/71.018) Bore.
Note C: All engines equipped with a ball bearing will have "0" End Play.
Note D: For OHSK110 models with specification number starting with 223000 have a displacement of
21.82 ( 357.63 cc).
84
Main Menu
OVERHEAD VALVE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
The torque specifications listed in this chart are to be used for replacing components after disassembly, not for
checking an existing engine bolt torque. Checking a torque value on a new or used engine may be lower due
to torque relaxation that occurs on all engines from thermal expansion and contraction. However, sufficient
clamping force exists and a re-torque is not necessary.
Specifications below ten ft. lbs. or ten Nm torque are listed only as in. lb. measurements to encourage the use
of an inch pound torque wrench for greater torque accuracy.
OVXL,
OHM,
OVM, &
OHSK
OHV
11-13
OHV13.5-17
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
In. lbs.
ft. lbs.
Nm
OVRM
OHH50-65
OHSK50-70
Cylinder Head Bolts
230
19
26
X
X
Conn. Rod Bolts
105
8.5
12
X
X
Conn. Rod Bolts
210
17.5
24
Cyl. Cover or Flange
115
9.5
13
Cyl. Cover or Flange
125
10.5
14
Flywheel Nut
450
35
51
Flywheel Nut Cast Iron
550
46
62
Flywheel Nut
700
58
79
Spark Plug
250
21
28
X
X
Ign. Mounting (Direct to Cyl.)
45
-
5
X
X
Ign. Mounting (Direct to Stud)
45
-
5
X
X
X
Ign. Mounting Stud to Cyl.
40
-
4.5
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Intake Pipe to Head
95
-
10.5
Carburetor to Intake Pipe
Stud
65
-
7.5
Carb. to Intake Pipe
70
-
8
Spacer to Carb.
45
-
5
X
Fuel Shut Off Solenoid to
Carb.
17
-
2
X
Muffler Mtg. (Flanged)
75
-
8.5
X
Muffler Mtg. (Rect.)
65
-
7.5
X
Muffler Mtg.
(Oval)
45
-
5
X
Muffler Mtg.
100
8.5
11.5
X
Muffler Mtg.
155
13
17.5
X
3
X
X
X
X
5
TORQUE SEQUENCE
OVRM / OHH, OHSK
2
X
X
2
FLAT WASHER
1
4
X
X
4
5
BELLEVILLE WASHER
(CROWN TOWARD BOLT HEAD)
1
3
6
TORQUE SEQUENCE
OHV 11 - 17, OHM, OVM, OHSK110 - 120
85
Main Menu
OVERHEAD VALVE TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS
The torque specifications listed in this chart are to be used for replacing components after disassembly, not for
checking an existing engine bolt torque. Checking a torque value on a new or used engine may be lower due
to torque relaxation that occurs on all engines from thermal expansion and contraction. However, sufficient
clamping force exists and a re-torque is not necessary.
Specifications below ten ft. lbs. or ten Nm torque are listed only as in. lb. measurements to encourage the use
of an inch pound torque wrench for greater torque accuracy.
In.
lbs.
ft. lbs.
N/M
160
13.5
18
Recoil Starter
25
-
3
Recoil Starter
50
-
5.5
Recoil Starter
40
-
4.5
Recoil Starter
80
Muffler Mtg. (Shoulder Bolt)
100
-
11
Electric Starter to Cylinder
150
12.5
17
18
-
2
120
10
13.5
75
-
8.5
Rocker Arm Studs
190
-
21.5
Rocker Box Cover
40
-
4.5
Rocker Box Cover
18
-
2
Rocker Box Cover
(4 screws)
55
-
6
Alt. Coil Assy. to Cylinder
25
-
3
Alt. Coil Assy. to Cylinder
65
-
7
Alt. Coil Assy. to Cylinder
90
-
10
Alt. Coil Assy. to Lamination
30
-
3.5
Rocker Arm Stud Lock Nut
Rocker Arm Lock Allen
Screw
86
OVXL,
OHM,
OVM
OHSK &
OHV
11-13
OHV13.5-17
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
9
Electric Starter to Cylinder
Rocker Arm Hex Jam Nut
OVRM
OHH50-65
OHSK50-70
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
Main Menu
87
Main Menu
CHAPTER 11. EDUCATIONAL MATERIALS
AND TOOLS
AVAILABLE TECHNICIAN'S HANDBOOKS
692508
Covers the diagnosis and repair of Tecumseh 2-cycle
engines. Except the TC Engine and TVS840.
692509
Covers the diagnosis and repair of the Tecumseh
4-cycle light/medium frame engines.
691462A
Covers the diagnosis and repair of Tecumseh 4-cycle
large frame engines.
691218
Covers the diagnosis and repair of Peerless® power
train components.
694782
Contains technical information for the repair of the TC
series, 2-cycle engines.
694988
Contains diagnosis and technical information for the
repair of TVS840, HSK/HXL845/850, 2-cycle engines.
695244A
Covers the diagnosis and repair of the OVRM/OVM/
OHM/OHV 4-cycle overhead valve engines.
695578
Covers the diagnosis and repair of the Vector Series,
4-cycle engines.
AVAILABLE FOREIGN TECHNICIAN'S
HANDBOOKS
694732 Spanish
This manual covers the following models:
VH80, VH100, HH80, HH100, HH120, OH120-180
Model numbers are located on the engine shroud.
695555 Spanish
Covers the diagnosis and repair of the Tecumseh
4-cycle light/medium frame engines.
695657 German
Covers the diagnosis and repair of the Tecumseh
4-cycle light/medium frame engines.
695562 French
Covers the diagnosis and repair of the Tecumseh
4-cycle light/medium frame engines.
VIDEO PROGRAMS
695015
Carburetor Troubleshooting. Covers identification of
carburetors used on Tecumseh engines and how to
troubleshoot and repair them. VHS only.
695059
Understanding Tecumseh Ignition Systems. A basic
program designed to give the small engine technician
first hand knowledge of Tecumseh ignition systems so
the technician can understand the system and perform
repairs to it. VHS only.
695148
Teardown and reassembly of the 900 series transaxles.
This video will show a complete step-by-step procedure
for teardown and reassembly of the 900, 910 and 920
series transaxles.
695185
Electrical Troubleshooting. This video training program
will assist the small engine technician in the proper
procedures for troubleshooting electrical systems on
outdoor power equipment.
695285
An in-depth look at the 800 series transaxles. Detailing
the teardown and reassembly procedures for the 800,
801 and 820 transaxles.
SPECIAL BOOKLETS
INSTRUCTIONAL GUIDE
692738
Assists in the use and understanding of the Tecumseh
Master Parts Manual. Illustrates time saving features
incorporated into the manual. Explains new carburetor
parts breakdown format.
4-CYCLE ENGINE FAILURE ANALYSIS
695590
This booklet is designed as a tool for the average
technician to correctly assess the cause of failure.
CARBURETOR TROUBLESHOOTING BOOKLET
695907
This booklet is designed as a quick reference to
carburetion problems and related repair procedures.
IGNITION SYSTEMS TROUBLESHOOTING
BOOKLET
694903
This booklet contains information on the identification,
possible problems and related repair procedures of
Tecumseh Ignition Systems.
SPECIAL TOOLS BOOKLET
694862
This booklet depicts all specialty tools offered by
Tecumseh which can be used on 2 and 4 cycle engines
and Peerless units.
QUICK REFERENCE CHART BOOKLET
695933
This booklet contains the quick reference information
found on Tecumseh wall charts.
This booklet is designed to be used as a work bench
quick reference guide when servicing Tecumseh
engines and motion drive systems.
TESTER BOOKLETS
694529
Test procedures for Tecumseh electrical components
using Graham-Lee Tester 31-SM or 31-SMX-H.
694530
Test procedures for Tecumseh electrical components
using Merco-O-Tronic Tester 9800. (Tests are similar
for 98, 98A and 79.)
87
Main Menu
TOOLS
TOOL KIT 670195E
Kit contains tools for 2- and 4-cycle engines.
Includes all items on this page but items may be purchased separately.
88
Main Menu
OIL SEAL DRIVER
No. 670195D Tool Kit. Contains special tools
commonly used in servicing 2 and 4 cycle engines.
OIL SEAL PROTECTOR/INSTALLER
Consult the specification
chart or measure the shaft
diamteter to determine the
correct tool.
OIL SEAL REMOVER
Consult the specification chart or measure the shaft
diamteter to determine the correct tool.
Use with:
No. 670287. 7/8" crankshaft bearing diameters.
No. 670288. 3/4" crankshaft bearing diameters.
No. 670289. 13/16" crankshaft bearing diameters.
No. 670290. 1" crankshaft bearing diameters.
Use with:
No. 670260. 1-3/16" crankshaft bearing diameters.
No. 670261. 13/16" crankshaft bearing diameters.
No. 670262. 3/4" Crankshaft bearing diameters.
No. 670263. 5/8" extended camshaft.
No. 670264. 1/2" extended camshaft.
No. 670277. 35/64" 8-1/2:1 Aux. Shaft.
No. 670292. 1" crankshaft bearing diameters assy.
for recessed, raised, or flush seal position.
No. 670293. 7/8" crankshaft bearing diameters
assy.for recessed or flush seal position.
No. 670308. Adapter for raised or flush seal position,
used with 670309.
No. 670309. 1-3/8" crankshaft bearing diameters
protector, use with 670308.
No. 670310. 1-3/8" crankshaft bearing diameter for
recessed seal position.
No. 670330. 1-1/2" extended camshaft.
No. 670335. 1-1/8" crankshaft bearing diameters.
No. 670336. 1-1/8" crankshaft bearing diameter
recessed seal.
No. 670337. 1" to be used with 670265 and 670266
recessed and raised.
FLYWHEEL KNOCK-OFF TOOL
No. 670312.1-3/8" crankshaft bearing diameters.
No. 670331.1.5" crankshaft bearing diameters.
VIBRATION TACHOMETER
No. 670156 Vibration tachometer.
TAPER GAP GAUGE
No. 670256 Taper Gap Gauge
VALVE LAPPING TOOL
†No. 670103 - Knock-off tool (right hand) (7/16").
†No. 670169 - Knock-off tool (right hand) (1/2").
No. 670154A Valve lapping tool.
†No. 670314 - Knock-off tool (right hand) (5/8").
†No. 670329 - Knock-off tool (right hand) (3/4").
89
Main Menu
BUSHING TOOL KIT
OVRM AND OHV11-16.5 SPEED ADJUSTMENT
TOOL
B.
A.
C.
D.
Rebushing tool kit for use on OHM, OHSK110, 120,
OVM, OHV11-13 AND OVXL. 1-3/8" main bearing.
No. 670326
TORX DRIVERS
A.
None
Torx 8
670334
B.
None
Torx 10
670333
C.
No. 670311 - Bushing Driver/Installer.
Torx 15
670323
No. 670317 - Bushing Driver/Installer.
Torx 20
670324
Torx 25
670319
Torx 30
670320
No. 670298 Alignment Tool.
1/32" (.794 mm)
OVERSIZE VALVE GUIDE REAMER
No. 670283. Used on OHH on Intake and Exhaust,
and OVRM40-60 Intake valve guide. Oversize
diameter .2807/.2817 (7.130 - 7.155 mm)
No. 670328. Used on OVRM40-60 Exhaust valve
guide. Oversize diameter .2787/.2797
(7.079 - 7.104 mm).
No. 670284. Used on OVXL/OVM/OHM120,
OVXL125 and OHV11-16.5 Intake and Exhaust.
Oversize diameter .3432/.3442 (8.717 - 8.743 mm).
90
RING EXPANDER
No. 670117