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DL PLL COMPLETE KIT
Part Value Description
C1, C2, C7 & C14 0.01uF (10nF, 10,000pF or 103)
C3, C4, C6, C9, C11, C13 1uF
C15, C16, C17 & C18
C5
C8
C10
0.0068uF (6.8nF or 6800pF)
0.1uF (100nF or 100,000pF)
0.022uF (22nF or 22000pF)
C12
D1-8
D9
IC1
IC2
IC3
IC4
IC5
IC6
LED1
LED holder
OPA1 & LTC1049
Q1
Q2
47uF
1N4148
1N4007
CD4046BE
HCF4001BE
HCF4066BE
HCF4047BE
HCF4050BE
LM555N
Red 5mm
2N3904
2N3906
R1 & R2
R3 & R4
R5
R6, R8, R10, R12 & R14
R7, R11 & R19*
R9
R13
R15
R16 & R18
R17
1k
1M
15k
10k
100k
56R
1k2
1M2
8k2
270k
T3
VR1 & VR2
8pin DIL socket
14pin DIL socket
16pin DIL socket
Sub-miniature SPDT switch
IRFP240
100k multi-turn pot
SPST On/ Off switch
2 way terminal blocks
PCB
Case
Meter
Red terminal post
Quantity
4off
10off
1off
1off
3off
3off
2off
3off
1off
3off
1off
1off
1off
3off
2off
2off
1off
5off
2off
1off
1off
1off
2off
1off
1off
1off
1off
1off
1off
1off
1off
2off
1off
1off
1off
1off
1off
1off
8off
1off
1off
Black terminal post
Fuse holder
Fuse
M3 x 12mm bolt
M3 nut
Blue crimp terminal
Ring terminal
3off
1off
2off
2off
6off
2off
9off
*R19 Note this ‘extra’ 100k resistor is supplied along with a SPDT switch to be used with one of the 100k potentiometers as a 200K 10 turn potentiometer doesn’t appear to exist.
The circuit diagram below is the one created by Patrick Kelly from Dave Lawton’s original.
These instructions have only be assembled in September 2013 as prior to this it was assumed all purchasers of this kit were enthusiasts with appropriate levels of knowledge gained from assorted forums accessible on the internet.
Over a period of time and, particularly since we stopped selling ready built units we seem to get people asking the same questions so we have ‘caved in’ to these demands and hopefully these instructions will prove sufficient to assist people in assembling these kits.
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Firstly check all components are present.
2. The first step is to solder the resistors to the PCB.
3. Secondly solder the capacitors to the PCB.
4. Next solder the semiconductors in place.
5. Next solder the IC sockets to the PCB and insert the correct IC’s in place.
6. Next up is the LED and MOSFET c/w heat sink. I cut the locating tabs off the bottom off the heat sink.
7. Next you can choose whether to solder the connection blocks to the PCB or solder suitable wire to the locations X1/ X2 & X3 (we use 18AWG multi-strand).
Note red denotes +ive and black denotes –ive.
8. Then we attach 21cm long lengths of hook-up wire to the P1/ P2 and VR1/ VR2 positions. In the pictures shown for VR1/ VR2 red represents the wiper ad the two black wires connect to either end of the potentiometer track. In the case of
P1/ P2 the red wire represents the pole of the SPDT switches, the black wire the
‘Auto’ position and the blue the ‘Manual’ position.
9.
You then need to locate the PCB in the case as per the photograph below. You’ll need to drill two holes in the PCB, butt the PCB up against the bottom edge of the box and drill through the case bottom. Locate with 2off M3 x 12mm secured with a double nut to space the PCB off the bottom. It is a good idea to attach the rubber feet at this point to stop the case sliding all over the place. Clean the case bottom with the likes of methylated spirits prior to attaching the feet.
10. When drilling the various holes in the case we supply make sure due thought is given to locating switches/ potentiometers so as to provide clearance for such as the MOSFET heat sink as shown below.
11. The various following photographs show various aspects of wiring the PCB, input/ output terminals and assorted switches/ potentiometers. Firstly the wiring of the Sense terminals, note the upper pair of output terminals are not yet fitted to provide working room and the negative power input terminal.
12. Next the wiring of the negative output from the PCB.
13.
Next comes the wiring to the ‘lid’ components starting with the frequency potentiometer and SPDT switch. The frequency potentiometer is a 200k value but a 200k 10 turn potentiometer is not available so it is necessary to use a
SPDT switch c/w a 100k fixed resistor so you end up with a 0
– 100k range and a
100 – 200k range.
14. Next the wiring for the frequency Auto/ Manual switch
15. Then the wiring of the Gating potentiometer.
16. Next the wiring of the Gating Auto/ Manual switch.
17. The next series of photographs shows the various stages of connecting the positive wiring from the input terminal through the switch, onto the fuse then the ammeter and on to the PCB and positive output terminal.
That’s it, except for labelling the various switches and potentiometers.
We do receive queries about the method of using this device and I have asked Dave
Lawton, on more than one occasion, to provide some specific advice.
Essentially this is a grown up version of the standard PWM device we sell. In that respect it should be connected the same way. The schematic above shows how the device should be connected.
It is fitted with a better quality meter and 10 turn potentiometers permitting more accurate readings and settings to be made.
The default mode is to connect the device to a cell with both the sense and output terminals connected to the cell and leave it to operate in the Auto mode. The PLL chip covers a range from 40Hz – 18kHz as supplied. The optimum ‘resonant’ frequency is continuously adjusted.
There is also the option to select the gating and frequency manually.
As this is a first pass as of 18/09/13 at full instructions for this kit we would welcome comment from anybody building this device. We can be contacted at [email protected]
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