Econar GeoSource 2000 Operating instructions

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Econar GeoSource 2000 Operating instructions | Manualzz
GeoSource 2000
Installation
and
Operating Instructions
Hydronic
GW 29 Thru 380 Series
GeoSource 2000 Hydronic Unit
Transformer
Hydronic
Pump Relay
Contactor
Controller
Reversing
Valve
Expansion Valve
Low Pressure
Switch
Desuperheater
(Optional)
Scroll
Compressor
Desuperheater
Pump
High Pressure
Switch
Air Pad
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Section
I.
Title
Page
Introduction to ECONAR Heat Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
II.
Unit Location/Mounting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
III.
Earth Loop Water Piping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
A. Closed Loop Applications
B. Open Loop Applications
1) Open Loop Freeze Protection Switch
2) Water Coil Maintenance
a. Freeze Cleaning
b. Chlorine Cleaning
c. Miratic Acid Cleaning
IV.
Hydronic Heat Exchangers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
A.
B.
C.
D.
V.
Applications of Hydronic Heat Exchangers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
VI.
Radiant Floor Heating
Fan Coils
Baseboard Heating
Other Applications
Storage Tanks
Hydronic Side Circulators
Circulation Fluid
Expansion Tanks
Application Diagrams
Unit Sizing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
A.
B.
C.
D.
Earth Loop Configuration and Design Water Temperatures
Hydronic Side Heat Exchanger Operating Temperatures
Building Heat Loss/Heat Gain
Temperature Limitations
VII.
Electrical Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
VIII.
24 Volt Control Circuit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
A. Transformer
B. Thermostat/Aquastat
C. Controller
1) Earth Loop Pump Initiation
2) Compressor Operation
3) 4-Way Valve Control
4) Compressor Lockouts
5) Compressor Anti-Short-Cycle
6) System Diagnostics
IX.
Startup . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
X.
Service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
A.
Lockout Lights
XI.
Thermostat Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
XII.
Troubleshooting Guide For Lockout Conditions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17
XIII.
Troubleshooting Guide For Unit Operation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
XIV.
Additional Figures, Tables, and Appendices . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
XV.
Desuperheater (Optional) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
17
1
I. INTRODUCTION TO
ECONAR HEAT PUMPS
ECONAR Energy Systems, Corp. has been producing
geothermal heat pumps in Minnesota for over fifteen
years. The cold winter climate has driven the design of
ECONAR Energy System's heating and cooling
equipment to what is known as a "Cold Climate"
geothermal heat pump. This cold climate technology
focuses on maximizing the energy savings available in
heating dominated regions without sacrificing comfort.
Extremely efficient cooling, dehumidification and
optional domestic hot water heating are also provided in
one neatly packaged system.
Geothermal heat pumps get their name from the transfer
of heat to and from the earth. The earth coupled heat
exchanger (geothermal loop) supplies the source energy
for heating and absorbs the discharged energy from
cooling. The system uses a compression cycle, much like
your refrigerator, to collect the earth's energy supplied by
the sun and uses it to heat your home. Since the process
only moves heat and does not create it, the efficiencies are
three to four times higher than the most efficient fossil
fuel systems.
ECONAR produces three types of GeoSource 2000 heat
pumps: hydronic heat pumps, which transfer heat from
water to water; forced air heat pumps, which transfer heat
from water to air; and combination heat pumps, which
incorporate the hydronic heating of a water to water unit
into a forced air unit. This guide discusses the hydronic
units.
ECONAR's hydronic heat pump transfers energy from the
earth-coupled heat exchanger to hydronic heating and
cooling equipment. Water-to-water heat pumps have the
ability to supply heated or chilled water for use in a wide
range of heating and cooling applications.
Safety and comfort are both inherent to, and designed into
ECONAR Energy System's geothermal heat pumps.
Since the system runs completely on electrical energy,
your entire home can have the safety of being gas free.
The best engineering and quality control is built into
every ECONAR heat pump built. Proper application and
correct installation will assure excellent performance and
customer satisfaction.
ECONAR's commitment to quality is written on the side
of every heat pump we build. Throughout the building
process the technicians that build each unit sign their
names to the quality assurance label after completing their
inspections. As a final quality test, every unit goes
through a full run test where the performance and
operation is verified in both the heating and cooling
modes. No other manufacturer goes as far as to run a full
performance check to assure system quality.
2
** IMPORTANT**
Service of refrigerant based equipment can be hazardous
due to system pressure and 230 volt electrical energy.
Only trained or qualified service personnel can install,
repair or service refrigerant equipment.
1 Warning - Turn off the main switches before
performing service or maintenance to this unit. Electrical
shock can cause personal injury. The installer is
responsible to see that all local electrical, plumbing,
heating and air conditioning codes are followed.
II. UNIT LOCATION/
MOUNTING
Locate the unit in an indoor area where the ambient
temperature will remain above 45oF. Servicing of the
heat pump is done primarily from the front. Rear access
is desirable and should be provided when possible. A
field installed drain pan is required under the entire unit
where accidental water discharge could damage
surrounding floors, walls or ceilings.
Units must be mounted on a vibration-absorbing pad
slightly larger than the base to provide isolation between
the unit and the floor. Water supply pumps should not be
hard plumbed directly to the unit with copper pipe; this
could transfer vibration from the water pump to the
refrigeration circuit, causing a resonating sound. Hard
plumbing could also transfer vibration noise from the unit
through the piping to the living space.
,CAUTION - Before driving screws into the cabinet,
check on the inside of the unit to be sure the screw will
not hit electrical or refrigeration lines.
III. EARTH LOOP WATER
PIPING
Since water is the source of energy in the wintertime and
the energy sink in the summertime, good water supply is
possibly the most important requirement of a geothermal
heat pump system installation. There are two common
types of water supplies, closed loop systems and open
loop systems.
A. Closed Loop Applications
A closed loop system recirculates the same water/
antifreeze solution through a closed system of
underground high-density polyethylene pipe. As the
solution passes through the pipe, it collects heat (in the
heating mode) that is being transferred from the relatively
warm surrounding soil through the pipe and into the
relatively cold solution. The solution is circulated to the
heat pump, which pulls heat out of the solution, and then
back through the ground to extract more heat from the
earth.
The GeoSource 2000 is designed to operate on either
vertical or horizontal closed loop applications. Vertical
loops are typically installed with a well drilling rig up to
200 feet deep or more. Horizontal systems are typically
installed with excavating or trenching equipment
approximately six to eight feet deep, depending on
geographic location and length of pipe used. Earth loops
must be sized properly for each particular geographic
area, soil type, and individual capacity requirements.
Contact your local installer or ECONAR’s Customer
Support for loop sizing requirements in your area.
Since normal wintertime operating entering water
temperatures (EWT) to the heat pump are from 25oF to
32oF, the solution in the earth loop must include
antifreeze. GTF and propylene glycol are common
antifreeze solutions. GTF is methanol-based antifreeze,
which should be mixed 50% with water to achieve freeze
protection of 10oF. Propylene glycol antifreeze solution
should be mixed 25% with water to obtain a 15oF freeze
protection. DO NOT mix more than 25% propylene
glycol with water in an attempt to achieve a lower than
15oF freeze protection, since more concentrated mixtures
of propylene glycol become too viscous at low
temperatures and cannot be pumped through the earth
loop. Insufficient amounts of antifreeze may result in a
freeze rupture of the unit, and can cause unit shutdown
problems during cold weather operation (when the heat
pump experiences the longest run time) due to loop
temperatures falling below the freeze protection of the
loop solution.
Flow rate requirements for closed loops are higher than
open loop systems because water temperatures supplied to
the heat pump are generally lower (see Table 1). Between
2.5 to 3.0 gallons per minute (GPM) per ton are required
for proper operation of the heat pump and the earth
coupled heat exchanger.
Pressure/Temperature (P/T) ports should be installed in
the entering and leaving water line of the heat pump on a
closed loop system (see Figure 1). A thermometer can be
inserted into the P/T ports to check entering and leaving
water temperatures. A pressure gauge can also be
inserted into these P/T ports to determine the pressure
differential between the entering and leaving water. This
pressure differential can then be compared to the
specification data on each particular heat pump to
determine the flow rate of the system.
A PumpPAK that is individually sized for each
application can supply pumping requirements for the
earth loop fluid. The PumpPAK can also be used to
purge the loop system. The PumpPAK is wired directly
to the contactor and operates whenever the compressor
runs (see Electrical Diagram – Figure 7). If a
PumpPAK is not used, a separate pump can be used
which is energized with a pump relay (note: electrical
code will require a fused disconnect for pumps other than
PumpPAKs).
Filling and purging a closed loop system are very
important steps to assure proper heat pump operation.
Each loop must be purged with enough water flow to
assure a two feet per second flow rate in each circuit in
the loop. This normally requires a 1½ to 3 HP high head
pump to circulate fluid through the loop to remove all the
air out of the loop and into a purging tank. Allow the
pump to run 10 to 15 minutes after the last air bubbles
have been removed. Enough antifreeze must be added to
give a 10oF to 15oF freeze protection to the earth loop
system. This amount should be calculated and added to
the loop after purging is complete. After antifreeze has
been installed it should be measured with a hydrometer,
refractometer or any other device to determine the actual
freezing point of the solution. Remember that a low
antifreeze level will lock the heat pump out on low
pressure during wintertime operation.
Figure 1 – Closed Loop Water Plumbing
3
The purge pump can be used to pressurize the system to
an initial static pressure of 30 to 40 psi. Make sure the
system is at this pressure after the loop pipe has had
enough time to stretch. In order to achieve the 30 to 40
psi initial pressure, the loop may need to be pressurized to
60 to 65 psi. This static pressure will fluctuate from
heating to cooling season, but the pressure should always
remain above zero so circulation pumps do not cavitate
and air cannot be pulled into the system. For
information regarding earth loop installations contact your
local installer, distributor or factory representative.
Table 1 – Loop Side Flow Rates
Model
Closed Loop
Open Loop
Flow
dP
Flow
dP
(gpm) (psi) (gpm) (psi)
7
4.0
4
1.5
GW29
8
5.5
4
1.5
GW36
10
7.8
5
1.7
GW42
11
5.2
6
1.6
GW52
13
17.0
8
5.6
GW59
14
7.0
10
3.8
GW67
22
3.8
14
2.7
GW98
4.5
16
3.0
GW120 26
8.3
N/A
GW380 78
B. Open Loop Applications
An open system gets its name from the open discharge of
water after it has been used by the heat pump. A well
must be available that can supply all of the water
requirements (see Table 1) of the heat pump along with
any other water requirements drawing off that same well.
The well must be capable of supplying the heat pump’s
required flow rate for up to 24 hours per day on the
coldest winter day.
Figure 2 – Open Loop Water Plumbing
4
Figure 2 shows the necessary components for water
piping of an open system. First, a bladder type pressure
tank with a "draw down" of at least 1½ times the well
pump capacity must be installed on the supply side of the
heat pump. Shut off valves and boiler drains on the
entering and leaving water lines are necessary for future
maintenance issues. A screen strainer is placed on the
supply line with a mesh size of 40 or 60 and enough
surface area to allow for particle buildup between
cleanings.
Pressure/Temperature (P/T) ports are placed in the supply
and discharge lines so that thermometers or pressure
gauges can be inserted into the water stream.
On the well water discharge side of the heat pump, a flow
control valve must be mounted next to the heat pump to
regulate the maximum water flow through the unit. A
solenoid valve is then installed and wired to the accessory
plug on the controller. This valve will open when the unit
is running and close when the unit stops. A visual flow
meter is then installed to allow visual inspection of the
flow requirements. The flow meter is useful in
determining when maintenance is required. (If you can't
read the flow, cleaning is required. See Water Coil
Maintenance for cleaning instructions.)
Schedule 40 PVC piping, copper tubing, polyethylene or
rubber hose can be used for supply and discharge water
lines. Make sure line sizes are large enough to supply the
required flow with a reasonable pressure drop (generally
1" diameter minimum). NOTE: Do not use plastic
female fittings with metal male fittings, or fractures may
result in the female fittings. Always use plastic male into
steel female!
Water discharge is generally made to a drain field, stream,
pond, surface discharge, tile line, or storm sewer.
,CAUTION: Using a drain field requires soil
conditions and adequate sizing to assure rapid percolation,
or the required flow rates will not be achieved. Consult
local codes and ordinances to assure compliance. DO
NOT discharge water to a septic system.
The heat pump should never be operated with flow rates
less than specified. Low flow rates or no flow may result
in freezing water in the water to refrigerant heat
exchanger. This will cause the unit to shut down on lowpressure lockout. If the unit locks out, verify that the unit
has the required flow and reset the unit by shutting off
power to the unit for one minute. ,DO NOT continually
reset the unit, if the unit locks out more than once call
your service professional. Continued reset of the unit
can freeze water inside the water coil to the point of
rupturing the water coil.
1. Open Loop Freeze Protection Switch
Heat pump installations on open loop systems, using a
non-antifreeze protected water source during the heating
mode, require the use of a freeze protection switch. If the
water supply to the heat pump is interrupted for any
reason, continued operation of the compressor would
cause the water remaining in the water-to-refrigerant heat
exchanger to freeze and rupture the copper inner tube.
The freeze protection switch (ECONAR Part # 75-1028)
will shut the unit down before freezing can occur and
protect the heat pump in case of loss of flow. A freeze
protection switch must be field installed on open loop
GeoSource 2000 heat pumps before the warranty can be
registered on the heat pump. The switch mounts on the
compressor’s suction line and is wired to terminals on the
controller (from X to FP). After the freeze protection
switch is installed, the J4 jumper must be removed from
the controller to activate the switch. The low pressure
switch now locks the unit off at 35 psi pressure in the
heating mode.
2. Water Coil Maintenance
Water quality is a major concern for open systems.
Problems can occur from scaling, particle buildup,
suspended solids, corrosion, pH levels outside the 7-9
range, or biological growth. If poor water quality is
known to exist in your area, a cupro-nickel water coil may
be required when ordering the system, or installing a
closed loop system may be the best alternative. Water
coil cleaning on open loop systems may be necessary on a
regular basis. Depending on the specific water quality
issue, the water coil can be cleaned by the following
methods:
a. Freeze Cleaning (Scale deposits, particle
buildup)
I. Before using the freeze cleaning procedure, verify that
it needs to be done. Answer the following questions to
determine if servicing is required.
1. Determine and verify that the required water flow
rate in GPM is both present and correct.
2. Determine the temperature differential of the
water. Under normal conditions, there should be a
temperature difference of about 10-15 degrees
between the supply side and discharge side. If the
temperature difference is 8 degrees or less,
consideration should then be given to cleaning the
water coil heat exchanger.
II. If cleaning of the water coil is indicated, please
carefully follow the steps listed below to utilize the freeze
cleaning method.
1. Turn off the heat pump and its water supply.
2. Open a plumbing connection on the water supply
side, if possible, to break the system vacuum and
allow easier drainage of the system and water coil.
3. Drain the water out of the system and water coil
via the boiler drains on the entering and leaving
water lines, and the drain on the heat exchanger.
1WARNING!! 1 FAILURE TO COMPLETELY
DRAIN THE WATER COIL HEAT EXCHANGER
COULD POSSIBLY RESULT IN A FREEZE
RUPTURE!
4. Set the thermostat to "Heat" to start the heat pump
in the heating mode and quickly freeze the coil.
5. Allow the heat pump to run until it automatically
shuts off on low pressure and then turn the
thermostat to the "Off" position.
6. Recap the water coil drain and tighten any
plumbing connections that may have been
loosened.
7. If so equipped, open the field installed drain cock
on the water discharge side of the heat pump, and
install a short piece of rubber hose to allow
drainage into a drain or bucket. A drain cock on
the discharge side allows the water flow to bypass
the solenoid valve, flow valve, flow meter, or any
other item that may be clogged by mineral debris.
Drainage to a bucket helps prevent the clogging of
drains and allows you to visually determine the
effectiveness of the procedure.
8. Turn on the water supply to the heat pump in order
to start the process of flushing any mineral debris
from the unit.
9. Set the thermostat to "Cool" and start the heat
pump in the cooling mode to quickly thaw out the
water coil.
10. Run the heat pump until the water coil is
completely thawed out and any loosened scale,
mineral deposits, or other debris buildup is flushed
completely from the water coil. Allow at least 5
minutes of operation to ensure that the water coil
is thoroughly thawed out.
5
11. If the water still contains mineral debris, and if the
flow through the unit did not improve along with
an increase in the temperature difference between
the water supply and discharge, repeat the entire
procedure listed above.
12. Reset the heat pump for normal operation.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
b. Chlorine Cleaning (Bacterial Growth)
Turn the thermostat to the "Off" position.
Connect a submersible circulating pump to the
hose bibs on the entering and leaving water sides
of the heat exchanger.
Submerse the pump in a five-gallon pail of water
and chlorine bleach mixture. The chlorine should
be strong enough to kill the bacteria. Suggested
initial mixture is 1 part chlorine bleach to 4 parts
water.
Close the shut off valves upstream and
downstream of the heat exchanger.
Open the hose bibs to allow circulation of the
bleach solution.
Start the pump and circulate the solution through
the heat exchanger for 15 minutes to one hour.
The solution should change color to indicate the
chlorine is killing the bacteria and removing it
from the heat exchanger.
Flush the used solution down a drain by adding a
fresh water supply to pail. Flush until the leaving
water is clear.
Repeat this procedure until the solution runs clear
through the chlorine circulation process.
Flush the entire heat pump system with water.
This procedure can be repeated annually, semiannually, or
as often as it takes to keep bacteria out of the heat
exchanger, or when bacteria appears in a visual flowmeter
to the point the flow cannot be read.
Another alternative to bacteria problems is to shock your
entire well. Shocking your well may give longer term
relief from bacteria problems than cleaning your heat
exchanger, but will probably need to be repeated, possibly
every three to five years. Contact a well driller in your
area for more information.
1.
2.
c. Miratic Acid Cleaning (Difficult Scaling
and Particle Buildup Problems)
Consult installer due to dangerous nature of acids.
Iron out solutions and de-scaling products are also
useful.
IV. HYDRONIC HEAT
EXCHANGERS
A. Radiant Floor Heating
Hydronic side heat exchangers can be a variety of
different types. Probably the most popular form of
hydronic heat exchangers is radiant floor heat tubing.
6
Radiant floor heating gives excellent comfort and very
high efficiencies by supplying low temperature water to
the floor slab, and keeping the heat concentrated evenly
near the floor. Radiant floor systems heat the occupants
and surfaces directly with radiant energy. Forced air
heating moves heated air around the building, which
transfers the heat to the occupants. Air movement can
create drafts, temperature stratification, and air rising to
the ceiling, which must be considered when designing
heating systems. Always remember that hot air rises, heat
does not.
Radiant floor heating usually consists of 1/2 inch plastic
tubing, approximately one linear foot of pipe per square
foot of floor space. This value is doubled for one pass
along the outside walls to concentrate more heat in this
area. The tubing is generally laid into the concrete slab
floor of the building. New construction techniques have
also made installation into wood floors and suspended
floors possible. The amount and spacing of the tubing is
sized to meet the capacity of the space at a certain fluid
temperature inside the tubing. To optimize efficiency and
capacity, the fluid temperature inside the tubing should be
maintained as low as comfortably possible.
The type of floor covering and the spacing of the pipe in
the floor have the greatest effect on operating fluid
temperature. Table 2 gives a rough estimate of expected
operating temperatures for specific floor coverings:
Table 2 – Expected Operating Floor Temps
Floor Covering
Temp (oF)
Carpeting
115
Tile/Linoleum/Hard Wood
100
Concrete/Quarry Tile - Residential
85
Concrete/Quarry Tile - Commercial
70
ECONAR designs its hydronic heat pump line using a
115oF leaving water temperature design point. This
leaving water temperature is the ideal maximum fluid
temperature for radiant floor systems. Operating
temperatures higher than this would result in an
uncomfortable hot feeling in the conditioned space. In
fact, boilers connected to radiant floor heating systems
must be restricted to a 115oF maximum operating
temperature by mixing valves or other control devices.
Distributors of radiant floor heat exchanger tubing can
help size the length of pipe and fluid temperature required
for your specific radiant floor heat exchanger
applications. Be sure to include insulation under the slab
and around the perimeter. Two inches of polystyrene
under the slab and two to four inches on the perimeter
down to a four-foot depth are required. This insulation
reduces the heat loss to the ground and decreases the
response time of the heating system. Building insulation
is important in radiant floor heating, as in other methods
of heating. Poorly insulated buildings can result in higher
floor temperatures needed to heat the building, which
could exceed the level of human comfort.
Night setback thermostats are not recommended on
radiant floor systems due to the response time of the slab.
Radiant floor systems are not usually recommended for
cooling, since cold, clammy floors and poor
dehumidification may result. To provide cooling to a
radiant floor heating installation, the installation of a fan
coil unit is recommended. Another alternative is a
GeoSource 2000 combination heat pump.
B. Fan Coils
Fan coils can be used with ECONAR's hydronic heat
pumps in the heating and cooling mode. In many cases,
radiant floor heating and fan coil cooling are used
together. Fan coils also provide dehumidification in the
cooling mode. The rate of dehumidification can be
adjusted by varying the fan coil operating temperature.
120oF hydronic leaving water temperature. In most cases
there is not enough perimeter area in the conditioned
space to allow for the required length of tubing to handle
the entire heating load. There have been successful
installations using baseboard as supplemental heating but
many factors must be considered.
Cast iron radiators have been used successfully. If these
radiators are rated for an output of 70 Btuh/square inch at
a 130oF hydronic leaving water temperature, they work
well with geothermal systems. Although the radiator may
be rated at 130oF, the system should still operate at the
standard 115oF leaving water temperature of the water-towater heat pump.
D. Other Applications
)Note: When selecting fan coil units for cooling use,
make sure they include condensate pans.
Additional open loop hydronic applications such as
outdoor swimming pools, hot tubs, whirlpools, tank
heating, etc. are easily sized based on heat exchanger
operating temperature and flow. The worksheet in
Appendix 1 was taken from the ASHRAE 95
Applications Manual and can be used for outdoor
swimming pool sizing. In many instances, sizing a heat
pump to these applications comes down to recovery time.
The larger the heat pump (within reason to avoid short
cycling) the faster the system recovery time will be.
Fan coils are sized for capacity at specific water
temperature and flow rate combinations. Their sizing is
also based on air temperatures, air flow rates (which
remain constant based on fan speed selection and static
pressure differential), and humidity conditions. The fan
coils are then matched to the heat pump at a common
system flow rate and operating temperature to provide the
overall system capacity to a space load.
)Note: Installing a plate heat exchanger (see Figure 6
for an example) between the heat pump and an open
system is required when corrosive fluid is used in the
open loop, especially on swimming pools where pH
imbalance can damage the heat pump. )Note: Expect
the maximum operating temperature of an indirect
coupled application to be 10oF below the maximum
operating temperature of the heat pump.
High static pressure fan coils have recently come onto the
market, which work well with ECONAR's hydronic heat
pumps. These systems provide heating and cooling for
houses without ductwork. They use a high static pressure
blower to supply air through small tubes, which run
through chaseways to the living space. The blower passes
air though a water-to-air coil that is coupled to a hydronic
heat pump to provide heating and cooling. These systems
work nicely on retrofit applications where ductwork isn't
available or wanted. Fan coil data is available in Table 5.
Other forms of closed loop systems such as indoor
swimming pools, pretreated fresh air systems, snow melt
systems, and valance heating/cooling systems are also
very common with hydronic heat pumps. The sizing of
the heat pump to these systems is more precise and
information from the system manufacturer is required.
Fan coils are available in many different sizes and
configurations, making them very flexible to your
particular application. Valence heating and cooling
systems, which use natural convection to move air, can
also be very versatile.
C. Baseboard Heating
Another application of hydronic heating is finned tube
baseboard heating. This is the same tubing used with
boilers with one major difference. The discharge
temperature of a boiler is much higher than geothermal
heat pumps. The heat pump system should be sized at
115oF hydronic leaving water temperature to maintain
efficiency. At a 125oF hydronic leaving water
temperature, the heat pump is at a maximum operating
temperature and may start to trip off on high head
pressures. Standard 3/4" finned tube baseboard
conductors have an average output of 230 Btuh/ft at
V. APPLICATIONS OF
HYDRONIC HEAT
EXCHANGERS
This section deals with some common practices used
when coupling the ECONAR GeoSource 2000 hydronic
heat pumps to the space conditioning heat exchanger.
There are so many possible applications for hydronic
systems that they cannot all be covered in this text.
Hopefully these ideas can help in many of your system
designs.
)Note: Actual systems must be constructed to all
appropriate codes and according to accepted plumbing
practices.
7
A. Storage Tanks
Coupling the heat pump to the space conditioning heat
exchanger through a water storage tank is very common.
In fact, the only instance where these storage tanks are not
recommended is when the heat pump is coupled to a large
heat exchanger capable of absorbing the entire heating or
cooling capacity of the heat pump (see Figure 5). In
applications that use multiple smaller zones, storage tanks
absorb the relatively large amount of energy supplied by
the heat pump, in order to provide longer run times and
less compressor cycling for the heat pump. Storage tanks
also serve to dispense energy in small amounts so that the
conditioned zones have time to absorb heat without
requiring high discharge water temperatures. Insulated
hot water heaters are commonly used for storage tanks.
)Note: While all hot water tanks are insulated on the
top and sides, many do not have insulation on the bottom.
An insulated pad beneath uninsulated tanks will reduce
energy loss to the floor.
When properly sized, a storage tank eliminates many
problems with multiple zone hydronic systems. These
problems include excessive leaving water temperature if a
single zone cannot dissipate heat quickly enough, and
hydronic flow reduction through the heat pump when only
one zone is calling. This may occur because the hydronic
circulating pump is normally sized to provide the heat
pump’s required flow with all zones calling. When sizing
storage tanks to the heat pump, a good rule of thumb is
ten gallons of storage tank per ton of hydronic capacity.
The tank temperature can be controlled with a simple
aquastat or a setpoint controller. The setpoint controller
senses tank water temperature and outside air temperature
to increase the tank temperature as the outside air
temperature goes down. This control scheme provides the
highest heating efficiencies by requiring the lowest
possible water temperature to heat the space. Setting the
optimal design temperatures in the controller is difficult,
and the simple aquastat does have its advantages. To help
in setpoint control, the following equation can be used.
Reset Ratio = Design Water Temp – Indoor Design Temp
Indoor Design Temp – Outdoor Design Temp
Always check local codes to be sure hot water heaters can
be used as storage tanks. Using the electric elements in
the tank as a secondary heat source to the heat pump is
appealing in some applications, but special UL listing is
required by many local codes. Specially listed hot water
heaters are available.
B. Hydronic Side Circulators
Hydronic circulator pumps transfer the energy supplied
by ECONAR's hydronic heat pumps to the space
conditioning heat exchanger. When selecting a circulator,
be sure to select a quiet operating pump with the ability to
supply the required flow rate at the system pressure drop.
8
The circulator supplying the heat pump should be placed
in the water supply line into the unit to provide the best
pump performance. Individual zone circulators should
also be placed in the supply lines of the heat exchangers
they serve. These pumps are often used as the on/off
control mechanism for the zone they supply as shown in
Figure 4. Zone valves are also commonly used for this
purpose using a common pump (shown in Figures 3 and
6).
)Note: Select a common pump at the total flow of all
the zones and the highest pressure drop of any one
parallel zone.
Small Grundfos pumps (230 VAC) can be used as
circulator pumps. These pumps are impedance protected
and do not require additional fusing if powered directly
from the heat pump, since the heat pump is rated to accept
up to a 1/3 horsepower circulator. If impedance protected
pumps are not used, inline fuses should be supplied
according to code.
Pumps must be sized to provide the required flow to a
heat exchanger at its corresponding pressure drop. This
pressure drop can be calculated from the total pressure
drop through the piping, added to the pressure drop of the
space conditioning heat exchanger. The hydronic side
pressure drop through each particular heat pump is listed
in Table 3. This table can be used for sizing the
circulating pump between the hydronic side of the heat
pump and a storage tank.
Table 3 – Storage Tank Circulators
Hyd. Loop
Series Flow (gpm) dP (psi)
4
1.5
29
5
1.7
36
6
2.8
42
7
4.8
52
9
7.0
59
11
11.7
67
15
4.0
98
18
4.5
120
54
4.0
380
Grundfos
Circulator
15-42F (Brute)
15-42F (Brute)
15-42F (Brute)
26-116
26-116
26-116 x Two
26-116
26-116
N/A*
This table represents the minimum pump sizing required
to supply the heat pump's required hydronic side flow rate
at the pressure drop of the heat pump and 30 feet of 3/4"
type K copper tubing or combination of elbows and pipe
(1-1/4" pipe on 98, 120 series and 2” pipe on 380 series).
*Hydronic side circulators for GW3800’s should be sized
for each specific installation.
A common problem with circulator pumps is trapped air
in the system. This air accumulates in the suction port of
the circulator causing cavitation in the pump, which leads
to premature pump failure and noisy operation. The air
can be eliminated by completely purging the system or by
placing an air separator in the plumbing lines.
The entire system must be purged of air during initial
installation and pressurized to a 10-25 psi static pressure
to avoid air entering the system. This initial static
pressure may fluctuate when going from the heating to
cooling modes but should always remain above zero. If a
leak in the system allows the static pressure to drop, the
leak must be repaired to assure proper system operation.
Air continually entering the loop can cause corrosion,
bacteria, or pump cavitation.
at higher head pressures and possibly lock out. Adding a
gallon of bleach or boiler system conditioner can reduce
the possibility of growth and clean up visual flow meters
and other components in the system.
The hydronic side circulator supplying the heat pump
should be controlled to run only when the compressor is
also running. If the pump is allowed to circulate cold
water through the system during off cycles, the refrigerant
in the heat pump will migrate to the hydronic side heat
exchanger. This can cause heat pump starting problems
(especially when this refrigerant migrates into the
condenser).
C. Circulation Fluid
The fluid circulating through the hydronic side of the
geothermal heat pump system is the transfer medium for
the heating and cooling being supplied to the conditioned
space. Selection of this fluid is very important. Water is
the most readily available fluid but has the drawback of
expansion during freezing which can damage the system.
System operation in the cooling mode, extended power
interruption to a structure, or disabling of an outside zone
(such as a garage floor) provides the opportunity for
freezing the circulating fluid.
Antifreeze must be used whenever the possibility of
freezing exists from the environment or from use of the
unit in the cooling mode. A propylene glycol based
antifreeze (readily available through HVAC wholesalers)
and water solution is recommended. Methanol based
antifreeze is not recommended for use on any hydronic
system where heat is being added to the system for
structural heating purposes. Freeze protection for the
hydronic side fluid down to 20oF (20% propylene glycol
by volume in water) is recommended for most indoor
applications (see Chart 1). Forty percent propylene glycol
in water (-5oF freeze protection) is recommended by
radiant tubing manufactures for snow melt applications, in
order to protect the tubing from expansion in outdoor
applications. Using over 40% in hydronic side
applications can cause pumping problems due to high
viscosity.
The water being added to the system should have 100PPM grain hardness or less. If poor water conditions
exist on the site, softened water is recommended, or
acceptable water should be brought in. Bacteria or algae
growth in the water is a possibility, especially bacteria or
algae that thrive at the particular temperatures produced in
the heating system. This growth can cause buildup on
hydronic side heat exchanger surfaces, reducing the
efficiency of the system or causing the heat pump to run
Chart 1 -Propylene Glycol/Water Solution Freeze Point
D. Expansion Tanks
Expansion tanks must be used in the hydronic side of the
water-to-water system to absorb the change in pressure of
the closed system due to the change in temperature when
heat is supplied to the system. Diaphragm-type expansion
tanks should be used. The diaphragm in these tanks is
filled with pressurized air which expands or contracts to
maintain a constant overall system pressure as the fluid in
the system expands with increasing temperature. Use
EPDM diaphragm tanks because they are compatible with
glycol-based antifreeze fluids (butyl rubber diaphragms
will slowly dissolve with glycol-based antifreezes).
Tanks from 1 to 10 gallons are generally used with heat
pump systems in residential and light commercial
applications. Expansion tanks should be installed in the
system near the suction of the circulator pump whenever
possible. This maintains positive pressure at the
circulator pump and reduces the highest working pressure
of the system. A pressure gauge near the inlet of the
expansion tank gives a good indication of how the system
is operating.
Pressure relief valves are required on all hydronic
applications. A 30 psi relief is adequate if the system is
operated at 12 to 15 psi pressure. If a hot water heater is
used for a storage tank, the 150 psi pressure relief may be
acceptable (check local codes).
E. Application Diagrams
Figures 3 through 6 show the components of a hydronic
heat pump system discussed above used in some common
applications. These figures by no means represent all the
possible hydronic heat pump applications, but they do
show some important principals that can be applied to any
system.
9
Figure 3 – ECONAR Hydronic Heat Pump – Multizone System
Figure 4 – ECONAR Hydronic Heat Pump – Radiant Floor Heating and Fan Coil Cooling
10
Figure 5 – ECONAR Hydronic Heat Pump – Single Zone Hydronic Heating Heat Exchanger
)Note: Expect a 10°F temperature differential between supply tank and receiving tank when transferring heat with intermediate heat exchanger.
Figure 6 – ECONAR Hydronic Heat Pump – Supplying Radiant Floor Heating, Fan Coil Cooling, and Car Wash
Water Heating for a Service Station
11
VI. UNIT SIZING
Selecting the unit capacity of a hydronic geothermal heat
pump requires four things:
A) Earth Loop Configuration and Design Water
Temperatures.
B) Hydronic Side Heat Exchanger Operating
Temperatures.
C) Building Heat Loss/Heat Gain.
D) Temperature Limitations
A. Earth Loop Configuration and
Design Water Temperatures
Loop configurations include the open and closed loop
varieties. Heat pump flow rate requirements vary
depending on loop configuration (see Table 1). Consult
ECONAR’s Engineering Specifications Manual for
capacities at different loop entering water temperatures
and hydronic leaving water temperatures.
1. Closed Loop Systems
Closed loop systems use a heat exchanger of high density
polyethylene pipe buried underground to supply a
tempered water solution back to the heat pump. Closed
loops operate at higher flow rates than open loops since
the entering water temperature (EWT) is lower. The loop
EWT supplied to the heat pump has a great effect on the
capacity of the unit in the heating mode. Earth loops in
cold climates are normally sized to supply a wintertime
EWT to the heat pump from 32oF down to 25oF, which
minimizes the installation cost of the earth loop and still
maintains proper system operation. The GPM
requirements and pressure drops for loop pump sizing are
shown in Table 1.
2. Open Loop Systems
On an open loop system the design water temperature will
be the well water temperature in your geographic region.
Many cold climates are in the 50oF range for well water
temperature. If your well water temperatures are lower
than 50oF, for instance Canadian well water can be as low
as 43oF, the flow rate must be increased to avoid leaving
water temperatures below the freezing point. If well
water temperatures are above 50oF, as in some southern
states where well water temperatures are above 70oF, the
flow rates may need to be increased to dump heat more
efficiently in the cooling mode.
Varying well water temperatures will have little effect on
unit capacity in the cooling mode (since the well is
connected to the heat pump condenser), but can have
large effects on the capacity in the heating mode (since
the well is connected to the evaporator). If well water
temperatures are to exceed 70oF, special considerations,
such as closed loop systems, should be addressed.
12
B. Hydronic Side Heat Exchanger
Operating Temperatures
The hydronic side heat exchangers discussed in section IV
are designed to operate at a specific fluid supply
temperature. This operating temperature will have to be
supplied to the selected space conditioning heat
exchanger by the hydronic heat pump. The manufacturers
or distributors of the hydronic side heat exchangers
publish the capacity of their equipment at different
operating temperatures and fluid flow rates. These
capacities and operating temperatures are required to
select the heat pump to be used in the system.
When selecting the heat pump, choose a unit that will
supply the necessary heating or cooling capacity at the
minimum and maximum hydronic loop temperature
conditions respectively. Example; if a fan coil system
requires 35000 Btu/hr to cool a space with 45oF water
temperature entering the water-to-air fan coil, a GW42x
GeoSource 2000 heat pump is required to handle the
cooling load.
If an intermediate heat exchanger is used between the
storage tanks as pictured in Figure 6, expect a 10oF
operating temperature difference between the two tanks.
For example, if the direct coupled storage tank is at
120oF, expect the maximum operating temperature of the
tank connected through an intermediate heat exchanger to
be 110oF. This occurs when connecting open loop
applications to the closed loop systems with plate heat
exchangers or with indirect water heaters.
C. Building Heat Loss/Heat Gain
The space load must be estimated accurately for any
successful HVAC installation. There are many guides or
computer programs available for load estimation
including the ECONAR GeoSource Heat Pump
Handbook, Manual J, and others. After the heat loss/heat
gain is completed, loop EWT’s are established, and
hydronic side heat exchanger conditions are determined,
the heat pump can now be selected using the hydronic
heat pump data found in the Engineering Specifications.
Choose the capacity of the heat pump based on both
heating and cooling load.
D. Temperature Limitations
Be aware of the operating range of the geothermal system
when sizing the particular heat pump. An operating range
of 15oF (minimum for heating) to 110oF (maximum for
cooling) is required for the earth loop side. These limits
have been established based on efficiency limitations and
safety pressure switch limits (25-psi low-pressure cutout
and 400-psi high-pressure cutout). Hydronic side
limitations in heating have a minimum of 50oF HYD
entering water temperature and a maximum of 130oF
HYD leaving water temperature range (entering water to
the hydronic side below 50oF gives low head pressures
that drives the suction pressure below cutout conditions).
Hydronic side limits in cooling fall into the 25oF entering
water temperature range.
VII. ELECTRICAL SERVICE
The main electrical service must be protected by a fuse or
circuit breaker, and be capable of providing the amperes
required by the unit at nameplate voltage. All wiring
shall comply with the national electrical code and/or any
local codes that may apply. Access to the line voltage
contactor is gained through the knockouts provided on
either side of the heat pump next to the front corner.
Route EMT or flexible conduit with appropriate 3conductor wire to the contactor.
1WARNING - The unit must be properly grounded!1
,CAUTION: Three-phase units MUST be wired
properly to insure proper compressor rotation. Improper
phasing may result in compressor damage. An electronic
phase sequence indicator must be used to check supplywiring phase. Also, the “Wild” leg of the three-phase
power must be connected to the middle leg on the
contactor.
When supplying power to external water pumps with the
heat pump’s power supply, use only impedance protected
motors. An ECONAR PumpPAK can be wired directly
to the contactor and grounded in the grounding lug. A
pump relay and a terminal block (BP) are supplied in the
electrical box for the hydronic side pump (not available
on GW380’s). The relay will start the pump with a call
from the aquastat or thermostat. The pump relay is
activated by power to Y on the terminal strip of hydronic
units (wire Y to X). The use of impedance protected
pumps eliminates the need for additional fusing. Do not
connect more than a 1/3 horsepower pump to the internal
pump relay.
If larger pumps are required, a separate power supply is
required to supply the pump. To start this pump use a 24volt relay pulled in from the Y and X terminals.
VIII. 24 VOLT CONTROL
CIRCUIT
The wiring diagrams in Figures 7 and 8 show the low
voltage controls of the heat pump and some generic
external control schemes. This section will break down
the three basic components of the low voltage circuit;
transformer, thermostat/aquastat, and controller.
A. Transformer
Electrical diagrams are provided in Figures 7 and 8, and
also on the electrical box cover panel of the heat pump.
An internal 24-volt, 55 VA transformer (100 VA on
GW380’s) is provided to operate all control features of
the heat pump. Even though the 55 VA transformer is
larger than the industry standard 40 VA transformer, it
can still be overloaded quickly when using it for control
equipment like zone valves or fan coil relays. Table 4
shows the transformer usage for the hydronic heat pumps.
Table 4 – Transformer Usage (VA)
Component
29-67
Contactor
7
Pump Relay
3
Reversing Valve
4
Controller
1
Thermostat
1
Total
16 VA
Available
39 VA
98, 120
7x2
3
4
1
1
23 VA
32 VA
380
14 x 2
N/A
9
1
1
39 VA
61 VA
If the system’s external controls require more than the VA
available for external use from the transformer, an
external transformer must be used. You can see that in
Figure 5, the heat pump’s internal transformer can easily
power the external 24-Volt system. In contrast, Figure 4
shows a fan coil system with its own power supply, which
must be coupled to the heat pump to put the heat pump
into the cooling mode. This can be accomplished using
an isolation relay which isolates the fan coil power supply
from the heat pump's transformer (e.g. use the fan coils
independent power supply to energize the coil of a relay,
passing a signal across the N.O. contacts from the heat
pump's transformer).
The heat pump's transformer can generally power simpler
control systems consisting of a few relays or zone valves
(depending, of course, on the VA draw of the
components). On more complicated control systems the
transformers capacity is used up very quickly.
)Note: For units operating on 208V electrical service,
the transformer must be switched to the correct lead (see
electrical diagram – Figures 7 and 8). Units are factory
shipped with the transformer set for 240V service.
Operating a unit on 208V with the transformer set to
240V will cause the unit to operate with lower than
normal control voltage.
B. Thermostat/Aquastat
Consult the instructions in the thermostat box for proper
mounting and thermostat operation.
, CAUTION- miswiring of control voltage on system
controls can result in transformer burnout.
)Note: If a single thermostat controls multiple heat
pumps, the control wiring of the heat pumps must be
isolated from each other. This will prevent the heat
13
pumps from receiving high voltage through the common
wiring if it is turned off at the circuit breaker for service.
Power is supplied to the thermostat by connecting the R
and X terminals to the heat pump terminal strip. The Y
terminal energizes the compressor. The unit is put into
the cooling mode when the thermostat energizes the O
terminal, which operates the 4-way reversing valve. The
L terminal is used to power the lockout LED on a
thermostat, which indicates a compressor lockout. The
pump relay is connected to the circulation pump's 3 pole,
high voltage terminal block (BP). The hydronic side
circulation pump receives power from BP, which is
energized by the pump relay.
A simple, single stage heating aquastat on a storage tank
or wall mounted thermostat may be all that is required for
simple heat only systems. This aquastat closes and passes
power to the Y terminal, energizing the compressor and
circulation pumps in the heating mode. When mounting
an aquastat inside a storage tank, always use a
submersible type aquastat. The aquastat should be
installed approximately 1/3 of the way down into the tank.
Set the aquastat differential to 15oF to avoid short cycling
A cooling aquastat can be mounted on the water supply
line, as shown in Figure 4. This aquastat acts as a low
limit, which shuts the heat pump down when the cooling
water reaches a minimum (e.g. 35oF).
Changeover from heating to cooling can be achieved in
two ways:
1) A manual toggle switch to select the control
aquastat (heating or cooling)
2) A cooling thermostat which powers the coil of a
single pole/double throw relay which selects the
heating aquastat (normally closed contact) or
cooling aquastat (normally open contact) shown
in Figure 4.
)Note: Always wire the system to shut down (Antishort-cycle) between a heating and cooling mode
changeover. Nuisance trip-outs could occur from
changing modes “on the fly”.
Any number or types of thermostats, aquastats, or
switches can be used with an independent power supply
(typically a 24-volt transformer) to activate specific zone
controls. These zone controls are normally either a zone
pump (Figure 4) or zone valves (Figures 3 and 6). End
switches on the zone valves can be used to pass a signal to
a pump relay when the zone valve is open. The pump
relay then activates a common pump, which supplies any
number of zones. Example: the fan coil in Figure 4 could
be supplied by the same pump as the radiant floor system
if zone valves were used instead of two pumps.
14
)Note: A common maximum aquastat setpoint is 115oF
(with a 15oF differential). The tank will then shut down
when it reaches 115oF, however, the leaving water
temperature from the heat pump is actually 130oF (the
maximum operating temperature). The aquastat
maximum setpoint should limit the head pressure of the
heat pump to 325 psi.
If a thermostat is equipped with an anticipator it should be
set to its maximum setting to avoid interfering with heat
pump operation. The anticipator is a resistor in the
thermostat that heats up as current is drawn through and
satisfies the thermostat prematurely. This reduces system
capacity by restricting run time.
C. Controller
The controller receives a signal from the thermostat and
initiates the correct sequence of operations for the heat
pump. The controller performs the following functions:
1) Earth Loop Pump Initiation
2) Compressor Operation
3) 4-Way Valve Control
4) Compressor Lockouts
5) Compressor Anti-Short-Cycle
6) System Diagnostics
1. Earth Loop Pump Initiation
If a PumpPAK is used, it should be wired directly to the
contactor of the compressor. If a PumpPAK is not
used, a separate pump can be used which is energized
with a pump relay (Note: electrical code will require a
fused disconnect for pumps other than PumpPAKs).
When there is a call for an M1 output from the controller,
the contactor will energize, starting the compressor and
earth loop pump.
2. Compressor Operation
A Y1 signal from the thermostat will ask the controller to
initiate heating or cooling. The controller then decides,
based on lockout and anti-short-cycle periods, when to
bring the compressor on. The M1 output of the controller
energizes the compressor. This compressor stays on until
on the thermostat is satisfied.
3. 4-Way Valve Control
The controller energizes the 4-way reversing valve to
direct the flow of refrigerant. When the thermostat calls
for cooling on the O terminal, the controller energizes its
O output to send control power to the reversing valve
(VR), to switch the refrigerant circuit to the cooling
mode.
4. Compressor Lockouts
A compressor lockout occurs if the high-pressure, low
pressure, or freeze protection pressure switches open.
The controller blocks the signal from the thermostat to the
contactor that normally would energize the compressor. In
the event of a compressor lockout the controller will send
a signal from L on the terminal strip to an LED on the
thermostat to indicate a lockout condition. This lockout
condition means that the unit has shut itself down to
protect itself, and will not come back on until power has
been disconnected (via the circuit breaker) to the heat
pump for one minute. Problems that could cause a
lockout situation include:
1. Water flow or temperature problems
2. Internal heat pump operation problems
3. Cold ambient air temperature conditions
If a lockout condition exists, the heat pump should not
be reset more than once; a service technician should be
called immediately.
,The cause of the lockout must be determined. Repeated
reset may cause damage to the system.
5. Compressor Anti-Short-Cycle
An anti-short-cycle is a delay period between the time a
compressor shuts down and when it is allowed to come on
again. This protects the compressor and avoids nuisance
lockout conditions. Anti-short-cycles occur after these
two conditions;
1. A 30 second to one minute time-out period occurs
on the compressor before it will start after its last
shutdown.
2. A 4 minute 35 second delay is incorporated into
the timing function immediately after power is
applied to the heat pump. This occurs only after
reapplying power to the unit. To avoid this
timeout while servicing the unit, apply power,
disconnect and reapply power very quickly. This
can sometimes eliminate the waiting period.
6. System Diagnostics
The controller is equipped with diagnostic LED lights
which indicate the system status at any particular time.
The lights indicate the following conditions:
1. 24 Volt system power
GREEN
2. Fault or Lockout
YELLOW
3. Anti-short-cycle mode
RED
IX. STARTUP
Before applying power to the heat pump, check the
following items:
- Water supply plumbing to the heat pump is
completed and operating. Manually open the water
valve on well systems to check flow. Make sure all
valves are open and air has been purged from a loop
system. Never operate the system without correct
water supply.
- Low voltage wiring of the thermostat and any
additional control wiring is complete. Set
thermostat to the “OFF” position.
- All high voltage wiring is correct including fuses,
breakers, and wire sizes.
-
-
The heat pump is located in a warm area (above
45oF). Starting the system with low ambient
temperature conditions is more difficult; do not
leave the area until the space is brought up to
operating temperatures.
Hydronic side water temperatures are warm enough
(50oF or above) to start in the heating mode.
The hydronic side water flow rate is correct (shown
in Table 1). Low water temperature starting may
require flow reduction until the system is up to
operating temperature.
You may now apply power to the unit. A 4 minute 35
second delay on power up is programmed into the heat
pump before the compressor will operate. During this
time the pump relay will energize the hydronic sidecirculating pump. Verify that the flow rate and
temperature of the hydronic side flow are at the
recommended levels.
The following steps will assure that your system is
heating and cooling properly. After the initial time-out
period is completed, the red indicator light on the
controller will shut off. The heat pump is now ready for
operation.
- Turn the thermostat up to its highest temperature
setting. Place the thermostat to the "HEAT"
position. The compressor should start 1 to 2
seconds later. If an electronic thermostat is used it
may cause its own compressor delay at this time, but
the compressor will come on after the time-out
period.
- After the unit has run for 5 minutes, check the
hydronic side return and supply water temperatures.
A water temperature rise of 10oF to 15oF is normal
in the heating mode, but variations in water
temperature and water flow rate can cause variations
outside the normal range.
- Turn the thermostat to the “OFF” position. The
compressor will shut down in 1 to 2 seconds.
- Next, turn the thermostat down to its lowest setting.
Place the thermostat in the "COOL" position. The
compressor will start after an anti-short-cycle period
of 2 to 3 minutes from its last shutdown. The antishort-cycle period is indicated by the red light on the
controller.
- After the unit has run for 5 minutes, check the
hydronic side return and supply water temperatures.
A water temperature drop of 10oF to 15oF is normal
in the cooling mode but factors mentioned in the
heating section can also effect temperature drop.
- Set the thermostat for normal operation.
- Instruct the owner on correct operation of the
thermostat and heat pump system. The unit is now
operational.
The heat pump is equipped with both high and low
pressure switches that shut the unit off if the refrigerant
15
pressure exceeds 400 psi or goes below 25 psi. If the
system exceeds 400 psi, the high-pressure switch will trip
and lock the unit off until power has been disconnected at
the circuit breaker for approximately one minute. System
pressures below 25 psi in the heating mode will trip the
low pressure switch and lock the unit out until the power
supply has been de-energized for one minute. On a well
water system, the freeze protection switch (field installed
part number 75-1028) will activate the lockout at 35 psi in
the heating mode to protect the water coil against freeze
rupture. After resetting a lockout (by disconnecting
power to the unit) verify that water flow is at the
recommended levels before energizing the compressor.
DO NOT reset a well water system without verifying
water flow. DO NOT reset the system more than once.
XI. THERMOSTAT
OPERATION
,Repeated resetting of the lockout can cause serious
damage if the reason for lockout is not corrected.
By pressing the “System” button, you can control the
mode that the thermostat operates in. The five system
settings are:
1. Em. Heat – Controls backup heating. In this mode,
the heat pump’s compressor is locked out, and only
the backup heating elements (if installed) operate.
2. Heat – Controls normal heating operation.
3. Off – Both heating and cooling are off.
4. Cool – Controls normal cooling operation.
5. Auto – The thermostat automatically changes
between heating and cooling operation, depending
on the indoor temperature.
Note: When the thermostat is set to Auto, there must be
at least a 2oF difference between the Heating setpoint
temperature and the Cooling setpoint temperature.
1 - If lockout occurs more than once contact your
ECONAR dealer immediately. X. SERVICE
Regular service to a GeoSource 2000 hydronic heat pump
is very limited. Setting up regular service checkups with
your ECONAR dealer could be considered. Any major
problems with the heat pump system operation will be
indicated on the thermostat lockout light.
A. Lockout Lights
A lockout light on the thermostat will light to indicate
major system problems. If lockout occurs, follow the
procedure below:
1) Check for correct water supply from the earth loop or
well water system.
2) Reset the system by disconnecting power at the
circuit breaker for one minute and then reapplying
power.
3) If shutdown reoccurs, check the indicator lights on
the controller in the unit and review the lockout
troubleshooting guide in section XI of this manual.
4) If lockouts persist, call your ECONAR dealer. Do
not continuously reset the lockout condition or
damage may occur.
This section covers basic operation of the standard 2-heat
1-cool thermostat that ECONAR carries. This thermostat
is ECONAR part number 70-2002, Honeywell part
number T8511G. If your thermostat is a different style,
please refer to the instructions supplied with that
thermostat.
The settings of the thermostat are controlled with the
“System”, “Fan”, “i”, up key, and down key buttons. The
System and Fan buttons are located behind the flip-down
panel.
The “Fan” button controls the operation of the heat
pump’s blower. The Fan button has two settings:
1. On – The blower operates continuously.
2. Auto – The blower operates with either a heating or
cooling call.
By pressing the “i”, or information, key, you can cycle
through your temperature setpoints. If you wish to
change a temperature setting, press either the up key or
down key when the appropriate mode is displayed. For
example, you wish to change the heating setpoint from
68oF to 70oF. Push the “i” key until the heating setpoint
appears on the LCD display. Then, press the up key until
the desired setpoint is reached. The thermostat will
automatically switch back to the room temperature
display after a few seconds.
If the LED on the bottom of the thermostat is lit, your
heat pump has locked itself out to protect itself. If this
occurs, please see the Compressor Lockout section of this
manual.
If you have additional questions about your thermostat,
please see the installation manual that was sent with the
thermostat.
16
XII. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR LOCKOUT CONDITIONS
If the heat pump goes into lockout on a high or low pressure switch, the cause of the lockout can be narrowed down by
knowing the operating mode and which pressure switch the unit locked out on. The following table will help track down the
problem once this information is known. Note: A lockout condition is a result of the heat pump shutting itself off to protect
itself, never bypass the lockout circuit. Serious damage can be caused by the system operating without lockout protection.
MODE
LOCKOUT CONDITION
High Pressure
(Condenser/Hydronic Side)
Heating
Low Pressure
(Evaporator/Earth Coupled Side)
High Pressure
(Condenser/Earth Coupled Side)
Cooling
Low Pressure (Anti-Short Cycle)
(Evaporator/Hydronic Side)
POSSIBLE CAUSE
-Loss/lack of flow through hydronic heat exchanger
-High fluid temperature operation in the hydronic loop
-Overcharged refrigerant circuit
-Loss/lack of flow through earth coupled coil
-Low fluid temperature operation in the earth loop
-Freezing fluid in heat exchanger (lack of antifreeze)
-Undercharged/overcharged refrigerant circuit
-Expansion valve/sensing bulb malfunction
-Loss/lack of flow in earth loop
-High fluid temperature operation in the earth loop
-Dirty (fouled) condenser coil
-Overcharged refrigerant circuit
-Loss/lack of flow through hydronic heat exchanger
-Low fluid temperature operation in the hydronic loop
-Freezing fluid in hydronic heat exchanger (lack of antifreeze)
-Undercharged/overcharged refrigerant circuit
-Expansion valve/sensing bulb malfunction
XIII. TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE FOR UNIT OPERATION
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Blown Fuse/Tripped Circuit
Breaker
Blown Fuse on Controller
Broken or Loose Wires
Voltage Supply Low
Low Voltage Circuit
Thermostat
CHECKS AND CORRECTIONS
Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker. (Check for correct size fuse or circuit
breaker.)
Replace fuse on controller. (Check for correct size fuse.)
Replace or tighten the wires.
If voltage is below minimum voltage on data plate, contact local power company.
Entire unit does not
Check 24-volt transformer for burnout or voltage less than 18 volts.
run.
Set thermostat on "Cool" and lowest temperature setting, unit should run. Set
thermostat on "Heat" and highest temperature setting, unit should run. If unit does
not run in both cases, the thermostat could be wired incorrectly or be faulty. To
prove faulty or miswired thermostat, disconnect thermostat wires at the unit and
jumper between "R", "Y" and "G" terminals and unit should run. Replace
thermostat with correct thermostat only. A substitute may not work properly.
Interruptible Power
Check incoming supply voltage.
Water
Lack of sufficient pressure, temperature and/or quantity of water.
Unit Undersized
Recalculate heat gains or losses for space to be conditioned. If excessive, rectify
by adding insulation, shading, etc.
Loss of Conditioned Air by Leaks Check for leaks in ductwork or introduction of ambient air through doors and
windows.
Thermostat
Improperly located thermostat (e.g. near kitchen sensing inaccurately the comfort
level in living areas). Check anticipator setting (Should be 1.0 or 1.2).
Insufficient cooling or Airflow (Across fan coil)
Lack of adequate airflow or improper distribution of air. Check the motor speed
heating
and duct sizing. Check the filter, it should be inspected every month and changed
if dirty. Remove or add resistance accordingly.
Refrigerant Charge
Low on refrigerant charge causing inefficient operation. Adjust only after
checking CFM and GPM.
Compressor
Check for defective compressor. If discharge pressure is too low and suction
pressure too high, compressor is not pumping properly. Replace compressor.
Reversing Valve
Defective reversing valve creating bypass of refrigerant from discharge to suction
side of compressor. When it is necessary to replace the reversing valve, wrap it
with a wet cloth and direct the heat away. Excessive heat can damage the valve.
Desuperheater
The desuperheater circuit (in-line fuse) should be disconnected during cold
weather to allow full heating load to house.
17
PROBLEMS
POSSIBLE CAUSE
Thermostat
Wiring
Blown Fuse
High or Low Pressure Controls
Defective Capacitor
Hydronic pump runs Voltage Supply Low
but compressor does
not, or compressor Low Voltage Circuit
short cycles.
Compressor Overload Open
Compressor Motor Grounded
Compressor Windings Open
Seized Compressor
Thermostat
Unit short cycles
Unit will not
operate in
"heating"
Unit does not cool
(Heats Only)
Compressor Overload
Aquastat
Wiring and Controls
Thermostat Improperly Set
Defective Thermostat
Incorrect Wiring
Aquastat set Too High
Reversing Valve does not Shift
Reversing Valve does not Shift,
the Valve is Stuck
Aquastat set Too Low
Insufficient Antifreeze
Compressor
Contactor
Noisy Operation
Rattles and Vibrations
Water and Airborne Noises
Cavitating Pumps
18
CHECKS AND CORRECTIONS
Check setting, calibration, and wiring, if thermostat has an anticipator, set it at 1.0
or 1.2.
Check for loose or broken wires at compressor, capacitor, or contactor.
Replace fuse or reset circuit breaker. (Check for correct size fuse or circuit
breaker.)
The unit could be off on the high or low-pressure cutout control. Check water
GPM, ambient temperature and loss of refrigerant. If the unit still fails to run,
check for faulty pressure controls individually. Replace if defective.
Check capacitor, if defective remove, replace, and rewire correctly.
If voltage is below minimum voltage specified on the data plate, contact local
power company. Check voltage at compressor for possible open terminal.
Check 24-volt transformer for burn out or voltage less that 18 volts. With a
voltmeter, check signal from thermostat at Y to X, M1 on controller to X,
capacitor voltage drop. Replace component that does not energize.
In all cases an "internal" compressor overload is used. If the compressor motor is
too hot, the overload will not reset until the compressor cools down. If the
compressor is cool and the overload does not reset, there may be a defective or
open overload. Replace the compressor.
Internal winding grounded to the compressor shell. Replace the compressor. If
compressor burnout replace the liquid line filter/drier.
Check continuity of the compressor windings with an ohmmeter. If the windings
are open, replace the compressor.
Try an auxiliary capacitor in parallel with the run capacitor momentarily. If the
compressor still does not start, replace it.
Improperly located thermostat (e.g. near kitchen, sensing inaccurately the comfort
level in living areas). Check anticipator setting. Should be 1.0 or 1.2.
Defective compressor overload, check and replace if necessary. If the compressor
runs too hot, it may be due to a insufficient refrigerant charge.
The differential is set to close on aquastat. Increase differential setting to 15oF.
Loose wiring connections, or control contactor defective.
Is it below room temperature? Check the thermostat setting.
Check thermostat operation. Replace if found defective.
Check for broken, loose, or incorrect wires.
Heat pump is trying to heat hot water to too hot of a temperature (over 120oF).
Reduce aquastat setpoint.
Defective solenoid valve will not energize. Replace solenoid coil.
The solenoid valve is de-energized due to miswiring at the unit or thermostatcorrect wiring. Replace if valve is tight or frozen and will not move. Switch from
heating to cooling a few times to loosen valve.
Heat pump is trying to cool water too low. Increase aquastat setpoint.
Water is freezing in hydronic coil. Check antifreeze level and add antifreeze to
obtain correct freeze protection.
Make sure the compressor is not in direct contact with the base or sides of the
cabinet. Cold surroundings can cause liquid slugging, increase ambient
temperature.
A "clattering" or "humming" noise in the contactor could be due to control voltage
less than 18 volts. Check for low supply voltage, low transformer output or extra
long runs of thermostat wires. If the contactor contacts are pitted or corroded or
coil is defective, repair or replace.
Check for loose screws, panels, or internal components. Tighten and secure.
Copper piping could be hitting the metal surfaces. Carefully readjust by bending
slightly.
Undersized ductwork will cause high airflow velocities and noisy operation.
Excessive water through the water-cooled heat exchanger will cause a squealing
sound. Check the water flow ensuring adequate flow for good operation but
eliminating the noise.
Purge air from closed loop system.
XIV. ADDITIONAL FIGURES, TABLES, AND APPENDICES
Figure 7 - Electrical Diagram for GeoSource 2000 Hydronic Series Heat Pump (GWxxx-x-TxOx)
19
Figure 8 – Electrical Diagram for GeoSource 2000 Hydronic Series Heat Pump [GW(98,120)0-x-TxTx]
20
Model
CFM
3 HBC-3
310
4 HBC-3
510
5 HBC-3
600
6 HBC-3
730
8 HBC-3
870
10 HBC-3
1070
13 HBC-3
1400
Heating
dP
Capacity (1000 BTU/hr)
(Ft. of Head)
120oF EWT
140oF EWT
3.0
12.0
12.2
17.4
2.0
6.0
11.7
16.7
1.0
1.9
10.5
14.9
3.5
18.0
16.1
22.9
2.5
10.0
15.7
22.3
1.5
4.5
14.5
20.6
4.0
10.0
19.7
28.0
3.0
5.9
19.1
27.1
2.0
2.9
17.9
25.4
5.5
17.0
24.1
34.3
4.0
10.0
23.4
33.3
2.5
4.2
21.9
31.2
6.0
11.0
29.2
41.5
4.5
6.5
28.3
40.2
3.0
3.0
26.3
37.4
8.0
14.0
34.9
49.7
6.0
8.1
34.2
48.6
4.0
3.9
32.0
45.6
10.0
22.0
45.9
65.3
7.5
13.0
44.8
63.7
5.0
6.2
41.9
59.5
Ratings at 70oF entering air temperature
GPM
Cooling
Model
CFM
Capacity (1000 BTU/hr) at 45oF EWT
dP
80oF DB/67oF WB
75oF DB/63oF WB
(Ft. of Head)
TH
SH
TR
TH
SH
TR
10.3
10.8
6.9
8.0
8.6
6.3
6.4
8.0
10.1
6.7
10.0
8.1
6.1
8.0
4.2
9.2
6.4
12.0
7.5
6.0
10.0
19.0
14.2
9.3
8.0
11.6
8.4
6.7
12.5
13.4
9.0
10.0
11.0
8.1
8.1
7.6
12.3
8.4
12.0
10.0
7.6
10.0
12.0
17.4
11.5
8.0
14.0
10.2
6.4
8.0
16.3
11.0
10.0
12.9
9.7
8.0
4.5
15.1
10.5
12.0
12.0
9.2
9.5
18.0
22.2
15.5
8.0
17.8
14.1
6.5
10.5
20.7
14.4
10.0
16.7
13.6
8.0
6.9
19.4
14.4
12.0
15.6
13.1
9.8
12.1
25.2
18.3
8.0
20.6
16.5
6.6
8.0
23.2
17.4
10.0
19.0
15.9
8.3
4.5
21.4
16.6
12.0
17.9
15.5
10.0
15.0
32.2
22.3
8.0
25.8
19.7
6.5
8.0
28.0
21.0
10.0
23.4
18.6
8.3
5.0
26.4
20.2
12.0
21.6
17.8
10.0
25.0
42.0
29.6
8.0
34.6
27.2
6.7
14.0
37.0
28.0
10.0
30.8
25.8
8.0
8.7
34.5
27.2
12.0
28.2
24.8
10.0
SH = Sensible Heating Capacity
TR = Water Temperature Rise
GPM
2.8
2.1
1.6
3.6
510
2.8
4 HBC-3
2.1
4.5
600
3.3
5 HBC-3
2.6
5.7
730
4.3
6 HBC-3
3.3
6.4
870
4.7
8 HBC-3
3.7
8.4
1070
6.0
10 HBC-3
4.6
10.8
1400
7.8
13 HBC-3
6.0
TH = Total Heating Capacity
3 HBC-3
310
Table 5 – Fan Coil Data
CONDITION
AC power applied
"
"
INDICATOR LIGHTS
PWR ASC LP
HP
FP
X
X
X
Run cycle complete
X
X
LP (HYD heating - before call)
LP (HYD heating - after call)
LP (HYD cooling - before call)
LP (HYD cooling - after call)
X
X
X
X
HP (HYD heating - before call)
HP (HYD heating - after call)
HP (HYD cooling - before call)
HP (HYD cooling - after call)
X
X
X
X
FP (F/A heating - before call)
FP (F/A heating - after call)
FP (F/A cooling)
X
X
X
X
X
X
X
COMMENTS
Blown fuse or power removed.
ASC indicator on for 4' 35" on power initialization.
Power applied - unit running or waiting for a call to run.
ASC indicator ON for 30 to 60 seconds after compressor shutdown.
X
X
X
X
Indicates LP switch position (ON = open).
Lockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
Indicates LP switch position (ON = open).
Lockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
X
X
X
X
X
Indicates HP switch position (ON = open).
Lockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
Indicates HP switch position (ON = open).
Lockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
X
X
Indicates FP switch position (ON = open).
Lockout, indicators latched and resettable by removing power.
FP switch disabled in cooling mode.
Table 6 – Controller #20-1038 LED Indicator Chart
21
Outdoor Swimming Pool Heat Pump Sizing Worksheet
For In-ground Pool Applications
Project Name:
Date:
1)
2)
3)
Pool Length in Ft.
Pool Width in Ft.
Average Pool Depth in Ft.
7)
Calculated Pounds of Water to be Heated.
8)
9)
10)
11)
12)
Desired Pool Water Temperature in oF
Starting Pool Water Temperature in oF
Average Ambient Air Temperature in oF
Calculated Water Temperature Difference in oF
Calculated Air Temperature Difference in oF
13)
14)
15)
16)
17)
Initial BTU's to Heat the Pool Water with no Surface Heat Loss
Hours Allowed to Heat the Pool Water to Desired Temperature
Initial BTU/hr Needed to Heat Pool Water in Time Allowed
Average Wind Speed Factor (see below)
Heat Loss from Pool Surface in BTU/hr
======>
======>
4) Pool Surface Area in Sq. Ft.
5) Pool Volume in Cu. Ft.
6) Pool Volume in U.S. Gallons
Initial
80
Maintain
80
120
18) Total BTU/hr Required to Heat & Maintain Pool Water Temperature
A)
B)
C)
D)
E)
F)
G)
H)
I)
J)
K)
L)
Instructions, Assumptions, and Additional Notes
Enter the appropriate pool dimensions where requested on lined 1, 2, and 3. If the pool depth is not constant,
please enter the overall average depth. If the pool is not rectangular in shape, please move on to the next step.
Calculate lines 4, 5, and 6 after lines 1-3 are filled in. There are 7.48 Gal Water per Cu. Ft. If the pool is not
rectangular in shape, such as elliptical, oval, & kidney shapes, manually calculate the information needed for
lines 4 and 5 and enter the results in the appropriate boxes where requested on these lines.
Line 7: There are 62.42 Lb. Water per Cu. Ft., and 8.34 Lb. Water per U.S. Gallon.
Enter the desired pool temperature in both boxes on line 8. If this temperature is not known, 80oF is a good
default to use.
Enter the initial pool water temperature in the box on line 9. Generally, this will not be any colder than average
well water temperature (approximately 50oF.)
Enter the average ambient outdoor air temperature for the coldest month that the swimming pool will be in use
in the box on line 10.
Line 13: Use the following equation to calculate the initial BTU's required to heat the pool without any
consideration to time or to surface heat loss via convection.
Initial BTU's = 1.0 [BTU/LB*oF] x Line 7 x Line 11
Line 14: Enter the amount of time in hours that will be allowed to initially heat the pool. (4 to 5 days [120 hours]
is normally acceptable and economical for private pools.)
Line 15: Calculates the heating capacity (BTU/hr) required to initially heat the pool.
Heating Capacity [BTU/hr] = Line 13 / Line 14
Line 16: Enter the average wind speed correction factor as listed below. (typically 3-5 MPH)
(<3 MPH = .75, 3 to 5 MPH = 1.0, 5 to 10 MPH = 1.25, >10 MPH = 2)
Line 17: Calculate the BTU/hr heat loss from the surface of the pool due to convection.
Convection Losses [BTU/hr] = 10.5 [BTU/hr*Sq Ft*oF] x Line 4 x Line 12 x Line 16
The greatest heat loss (typically 50-60%) in a swimming pool is through evaporation. Radiation and evaporative
losses can be reduced 50% through the use of a pool cover. Solar gains in unshaded pools can add up to 100,000
BTU/hr which offsets some convective loss. Because of these solar gains and economic reasons, total heating
capacity for only one half of the convective losses are required when sizing. Heat loss by conduction through pool
is minimal in an in-ground pool. Conduction losses for above ground pools can be compensated for by
the average wind speed correction factor.
Line 18: Total BTU/hr = Lines 15 + (Line 17 x 1/2)
Appendix 1 – Outdoor Swimming Pool Heat Pump Sizing Worksheet
22
XV. DESUPERHEATER
(OPTIONAL)
which reduces pump life and causes noise problems in the
pump. A spring-type check valve with a pressure rating
of 1/2 psi or less is recommended.
A GeoSource 2000 unit equipped with a desuperheater
can provide supplemental heating of a home's domestic
hot water. This is done by stripping heat from the
superheated gas leaving the compressor and transferring it
to a hot water tank. A desuperheater pump, manufactured
into the unit, circulates water from the domestic hot water
tank, heats it using a double walled water-to-refrigerant
heat exchanger, and returns it to the tank. The
desuperheater provides supplemental heating because it
only heats water when the compressor is already running
to heat or cool the conditioned space. Because the
desuperheater is stripping some of the energy from the
heat pump in order to heat the water, the heat pump’s
capacity in the winter will be slightly less than a unit
without a desuperheater. During extremely cold weather,
or if the heat pump cannot keep up with heating the space,
the desuperheater fuse may be pulled in order to get more
capacity out of the unit.
All air must be purged from the desuperheater plumbing
before the pump is engaged. To purge small amounts of
air from the lines, loosen the desuperheater pump from its
housing by turning the brass collar. Let water drip out of
the housing until flow is established, and re-tighten the
brass collar. Using 1/2-inch copper tubing from the tank
to the desuperheater inlet is recommended to keep water
velocities high, avoiding air pockets at the pump inlet.
An air vent in the inlet line can also help systems where
air is a problem. If one is used (we recommend a Watts
Regulator brand FV-4 or Spirovent) mount it near the
desuperheater inlet roughly 2-1/2 inches above the
horizontal pipe. Shutoff valves allow access to the
desuperheater plumbing without draining the hot water
tank. Keep valves open when pump is running.
,CAUTION: Running the desuperheater pump without
water flow will damage the pump.
Insulated copper tubing should be used to run from the
hot water tank to the desuperheater connections on the left
side of the unit. The built in desuperheater pump can
provide the proper flow to the desuperheater if the total
equivalent length of straight pipe and connections is kept
to a maximum of 90 feet of 1/2-inch type L copper tubing.
This tubing can be connected to the hot water tank in two
ways:
Poor water quality may restrict the effectiveness of using
the desuperheater tee by plugging the entrance with scale
or buildup from the bottom of the tank, restricting water
flow. Desuperheater maintenance includes periodically
opening the drain on the hot water tank to remove
deposits. If hard water, scale, or buildup causes regular
problems in hot water tanks in your area, it may result in a
loss of desuperheater effectiveness. This may require
periodic cleaning with Iron Out or similar products.
METHOD 1
Using a desuperheater tee installed in the drain at the
bottom of the water heater (See Figure 9). This is the
preferred method for ease of installation, comfort and
efficiency. The tee eliminates the need to tap into the
domestic hot water lines and eliminates household water
supply temperature variations that could occur from
connecting to the hot water pipes.
METHOD 2
Taking hot water from the bottom drain and returning it
to the cold water supply line (See Figure 10). This
method maintains the same comfort and efficiency levels
but increases installation time and costs. This method
requires a check valve in the return line to the cold water
supply to prevent water from flowing backwards through
the desuperheater when the tank is filling. Water passing
through the pump backwards damages the rotor's bearing,
The desuperheater's high temperature cutout switch is
located on the return line from the water heater. The
switch is wired in series with the desuperheater pump to
disable the pump from circulating at entering water
temperature above 140oF. If the desuperheater causes
tank temperatures to become uncomfortably hot, this
temperature switch can be moved to the leaving water line
which will reduce the tank maximum temperatures 10oF
to 15oF. Do not remove the high temperature switch or
tank temperatures could become dangerously high.
A fuse is attached to the fuseholder and must be
inserted in the fuseholder after the desuperheater is
operational. Do not insert fuse until water flow is
available or the pump may be damaged. Remove the fuse
to disable the pump if the desuperheater isn’t in operation.
23
Figure 9 – Preferred Desuperheater Installation
Figure 10 – Alternate Desuperheater Installation
24
GeoSource 2000, DualTEK, Vara,
Vara 2 PlusTM and Invision3 Heat Pumps
USA and Caada
Residential and Limited Commercial Warranty**
Residential Applications Only:
All Parts – 2 Years
Years 1 through 2, ECONAR Energy Systems Corp. will provide a free replacement part upon prepaid return of all defective parts, F.O.B.
Appleton, MN for any part which fails to function properly due to defective material, or workmanship. * During this period, ECONAR will
provide a free relacement part F.O.B. Appleton, MN for any part which fails to function properly due to defective material, or workmanship.
Refrigeration Components – 5 Years
Years 3 through 5, ECONAR will provide a free relacement part upon prepaid return of defective parts, F.O.B. Appleton, MN for any
compressor, or refrigeration components (parts only***) which fails to function properly due to defective material or workmanship.
Heat Exchangers – Lifetime
ECONAR will provide a free replacement internal heat exchanger (i.e. water to refrigerant, refrigerant to air) upon prepaid return of
defective part F.O.B. Appleton, MN (parts only) for the lifetime of the heat pump.
Commercial Applications Only:
All Parts – 1 Year
**First year, ECONAR will provide a free replacement upon prepaid return of all defective parts, F.O.B. Appleton, MN for any part which
fails to function properly due to defective material or workmanship. During this period, ECONAR will cover the cost of labor for the
replacement of parts found to be defective; not to exceed ECONAR’s published Labor Schedule.
Refrigeration Components – 5 Years
Years 2 through 5, ECONAR will provide a free replacement part upon prepaid return F.O.B. Appleton, MN for any compressor, or
refrigerant component (parts only) which fails to function properly due to defective material, or workmanship.
All Applications:
Limitations:
•
•
•
•
•
•
Begins the date of original purchase as recorded by ECONAR with the return of the warranty registration card. (If warranty card is not
submitted, warranty begins the date of original manufacture based on serial number).
Applies to original installation and normal use of the heat pump only and does not include any other component of a system as a whole.
All ECONAR labeled and manufactured accessories carry a 2 year part warranty for residential duty and 1 year for commerical duty. All
other accessories carry the manufacturers warranty only. Labor is excluded on all accessories.
Service must be performed by an ECONAR authorized service person.
Replacement parts shall be warranted for 90 days. After the 90 days, the parts will be covered by the remaining warranty of the unit.
Under no circumstances will ECONAR be liable for incidental, or consequential expenses, losses or damages.
Owners Responsibilites:
•
•
•
Return warranty card to activate warranty coverage. See form #90-0147
Provide normal care and Maintenance.
Make products accessible for service.
Warranty is Void if:
•
•
•
•
•
Data label is defaced, or removed.
Product has defect, or damage due to product alterations, connection to an improper electric supply, shipping and handling, accident, fire,
flood, lightning, act of God, or other conditions beyond the control of ECONAR.
Products are not installed in accordance with ECONAR instructions and specifications.
Products which have defects, or insufficient performance as a result of insufficient or incorrect installations, poor water supply, design, or
the improper application of products. (This would include a freeze rupture)
Products are installed, or operate in a corrosive environment causing deterioration of metal parts.
Warranty Performance:
•
The installing contractor will provide the warranty service for the owner. If the installing contractor is not available, contact:
ECONAR Energy Systems, Corp., Customer Support, at 33 West Veum, Appleton, MN 56208 or call toll free 1-800-4-ECONAR.
*Determination of the defect is the sole discretion of ECONAR Energy Systems, Corp.
**Limited Commercial Warranty covers all non-residential applications.
***Energy Star rated products include parts and labor.
This warranty supersedes any and all previously written or implied warranty documentation.
ECONAR Energy Systems Corporation 7/03
25
ColdClimate Geothermal Heat Pumps
19230 Evans Street (Hwy 169)
Elk River, MN 55330
USA
1-800-4-ECONAR
www.econar.com
NRTL/C
90-1009 Rev. 2/04
26
 ECONAR Energy Systems Corp.

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