DEUI2-BUTTON MANUAL / AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION REMOTE STARTER
WITH VIRTUAL TACH SYSTEM
(AS PRG-1000 COMPATIBLE)
CT-3271
Installation Guide
Notice
The manufacturer will accept no responsibility for any electrical damage resulting from improper installation of
the product, be that either damage to the vehicle itself or to the unit. This unit must be installed by a certified
technician using all safety devices supplied. Please note that this guide has been written for properly trained
technicians: a certain level of skills and knowledge is therefore assumed. Please review the Installation Guide
carefully before beginning any work.
Warning
Before installing the unit, if installing on a vehicle with a manual transmission, test that the OEM Door Switch
contacts of the vehicle work well, and that the Parking Brake system operates properly. If installing on a vehicle
with an automatic transmission, test that the vehicle does not start when the gearshift lever is in the “Drive”
position. If it starts in gear, install a manual transmission remote starter system instead.
Doc#: 121105
Rev: 2.3
© 2012
CT-3271
-CP-
Canada
Table of Contents
Introduction ................................................................................................................................ 3
Included in the Package............................................................................................................ 3
Installation Tools ....................................................................................................................... 3
Installation Points to Remember.............................................................................................. 3
Installation Order ....................................................................................................................... 4
A basic introduction to the Relay ............................................................................................ 6
Clutch Bypass .......................................................................................................................... 8
Harness Description ................................................................................................................ 10
6-Pin Main Ignition Harness................................................................................................... 10
5-Pin Secondary Harness ...................................................................................................... 11
12-Pin Accessories Harness.................................................................................................. 12
3-pin Harness ........................................................................................................................ 14
Auxiliary Relay ......................................................................................................................... 14
Fifth Relay Output (2nd IGN, ACC or CRANK) ..................................................................... 14
Manual or Automatic Transmission....................................................................................... 15
Entering Programming Mode ................................................................................................. 16
The Programming Assistance Button (a.k.a. PAB)................................................................ 16
Transmitter Programming Procedure.................................................................................... 17
Entering Programming Options ............................................................................................. 17
Programming option .............................................................................................................. 17
Virtual tach system .................................................................................................................. 17
Optional Time Delay Adjustment in Virtual Tach System ...................................................... 18
Tach Learning .......................................................................................................................... 18
Tach jumper settings ............................................................................................................. 18
Multi-speed Tach Programming Procedure ........................................................................... 18
Auto Tach Programming Procedure ...................................................................................... 19
Setting the Unit into Ready Mode .......................................................................................... 19
Arming and disarming the starter kill .................................................................................... 20
Installation-programmable Features ..................................................................................... 20
Ignition-Controlled Door Locks .............................................................................................. 20
Secure Lock ........................................................................................................................... 21
LED Flashing ......................................................................................................................... 21
Bypass ................................................................................................................................... 21
Engine Run Time ................................................................................................................... 21
Idle Mode ............................................................................................................................... 21
Turbo Mode ........................................................................................................................... 22
Constant lock/unlock or horn output ...................................................................................... 22
Remote function ..................................................................................................................... 23
Diagnostics via parking lights................................................................................................ 23
Diagnostic table for shutdown................................................................................................ 23
Diagnostic table for start failure. ............................................................................................ 23
Parking lights flash summary table ....................................................................................... 24
Resetting the module to default features .............................................................................. 24
Troubleshooting Poor Transmitting Range .......................................................................... 25
Testing ...................................................................................................................................... 25
Troubleshooting Q & A ........................................................................................................... 26
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CT-3271
Introduction
This Guide contains all information pertinent to the installation. Most (if not all) features are
grouped in the User Guide. Therefore, should you need information on a feature, please refer to
the User Guide.
Included in the Package
Please review the Installation Guide before beginning the installation, particularly the Wiring
Schematic and the Programming Options.
It is very important that you familiarize yourself with the programming and the operation of the
system, even if you have already installed a similar system in the past. There are many great
features that may be overlooked if the manual is not read; this would prevent you from maximizing
the potential of the Module.
Prior to the installation, make sure that all the hardware components required to install the system
are in the box.
The following is a list of components included in the kit:
1- Control unit
1- Parts bag
1- 2 button remote
1- Installation guide
1- Antenna interconnect cable
1- User guide
1- Harness kit
1- Wiring diagram
1- Antenna
Installation Tools
Here is a list of basic tools and supplies you will need to test and install safely.
•
Digital Multi Meter (DMM), Computer safe logic probe, Fused jumper wire, Neon 'trouble' light that is
carpet safe, Fender protector, Carpet protector
•
Soldering Iron, solder, electrical tape, wire tie straps, split loom, diodes, resistors, relays
•
Wire cutters, Wire strippers, Wire crimpers, Needle Nose Pliers
•
Sharp knife, Panel poppers, Various Screw drivers
•
Socket set, Wrench set, Drill with Drill Bits, Coat hanger (for fishing wires through the fire wall)
Installation Points to Remember
•
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On vehicles with a manual transmission, always ensure that all door pins are monitored by the remote
starter.
Make sure that the Parking brake and Door switch contacts work properly.
When working on a vehicle, always leave a window open.
Never leave the keys in the car. Leave them on a workbench with a window rolled down.
If possible, remove courtesy light fuse to prevent battery drain.
The Programming Assistance Button (a.k.a. PAB): The PAB is mounted on the side of the unit. This
push button mimics the hood-pin switch in order to avoid having to get out of the vehicle and pressing the
hood-pin switch. The PAB will work only when the hood is up.
Inspect vehicle for any body damage or electrical problems.
Always solder and tape all connections.
CT-3271
p.3
•
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•
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Keep the transceiver away from other types of antennas (GPS/OnStar®).
Never install the control unit where it could interfere with normal operation or obstruct service technicians.
Always use a grommet when running wires into the engine compartment.
Never run wires through bare or sharp metal.
Do not disconnect the battery on vehicles equipped with air bags and anti-theft radios.
Never ground the control unit to the steering column.
Make sure that all electrical switches and controls operate properly.
Verify that the vehicle starts and idles properly.
Make sure that all safety equipment is installed: the valet button (if installed), the hood switch, and the
warning label.
Examples:
Wiring a clutch bypass and a transponder module to the ground out when running wire: At the
junction point, where Ground Out when running “splits” and goes to each device, a diode is inserted on
each of those lines.
Multiple or separate door pin connections:
When joining all door pins together to the door pin input wire of the module, each wire must be isolated
with a diode to prevent feedback.
N.B.: The above examples reflect common situations where diodes are used to isolate. Please note that
there are numerous other scenarios where diode isolation is required.
Always make sure that any external relays or modules added to the Remote Starter module are properly
fused and diode isolated.
Vehicles equipped with daytime running lights may not allow the installer to view certain programming
results since the daytime running lights do not turn OFF with the IGN off (Note: The Parking Light output
relay in the module gives two “clicks” per flash, 1 “click” for ON and 1 “click” for OFF).
Parking Light flashes referred to in this manual refer to the Parking Light output of the module.
•
•
INDUSTRY CANADA USER NOTICE:
Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause interference, and (2)
this device must accept any interference, including interference that may cause undesired operation of
the device.
To reduce potential radio interference to other users, the antenna type and its gain should be so chosen
that the equivalent isotropically radiated power (EIRP) is not more than that required for successful
communication.
NOTE: The manufacturer is not responsible for any radio or TV interference caused by unauthorized
modifications to this equipment. Such modifications could void the user's authority to operate the
equipment.
Installation Order
The following is a suggested order for the Installation procedure. It is intended as a guide for novices, to help
make the process of installing a remote starter module easier. Time is wasted by rewiring the module when
mistakes are made. Also, the neatness of the installation is lessened every time the module is taken down and
the wiring is “corrected”.
♦ Visit www.Prostart.org to obtain a copy of your vehicle’s tech sheet. (wire colors and locations)
♦ Before you get started, make sure the vehicle starts and idles properly with the Ignition key, and that the
electrical system is not compromised in any way.
♦ After deciding what options are to be added to the basic installation, you can start by looking for the wires
that will be needed.
♦ Remember to be careful when removing the panels that are covering the wires you are searching for.
♦ Once all of the wires have been found, they should be tested to verify that they are the correct ones needed
for the installation.
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CT-3271
♦ When all the wires have been tested and found, they can be stripped to expose the wire (over one inch of
insulation should be removed).
♦ It is always better to strip more than you need. A common way cold solder joints happen is when not enough
insulation is stripped off the vehicle's wire, so during the soldering process the insulation from the wire melts
and flows into the connection instead of the solder.
♦ Decide where the module is going to be mounted. It is ALWAYS mounted inside the passenger
compartment, and NEVER in the engine bay. Under the driver's side of the dash there is usually enough room
for the module to fit. Once the location has been decided, proceed to the next step.
♦ Mount the antenna and run the cable to the location where the module is going to be mounted. The antenna
will get the best range when it is high up in the vehicle, and not obstructed by metal. The most common choice
is the center of the windshield at the top, behind the rear view mirror, and at least one inch below the tint strip.
Another location should be used if there is another antenna in this location, compass, or other device that may
interfere with the range of the start module.
♦ In the engine compartment, mount the hood pin, in a suitable location. Search along the firewall for an OEM
grommet you run the wires through. If you cannot find an OEM grommet to use, you will have to drill a hole. The
hole must be big enough for all of your wires to fit through. To be safe drill the hole out a little bigger so the
wires will have ample room. We recommend using an aftermarket grommet whenever you drill a hole through
the firewall. This will protect the wires from rubbing against the bare metal and possibly shorting out. The next
step is to pre-wire the module. This is done on your work bench, and not in the vehicle. Connect any external
modules and relays that may be needed for you install. Tape or tie-strap wires that are going to be routed to the
same areas of the vehicle. This will keep things neat when the module is in the vehicle. The fuses on the power
wires should be removed during the pre-wire stage. The fuses will not be put back in until the powering stage of
the installation.
♦ Connect all the necessary accessories to the module before mounting it in the vehicle. Use tie-straps to
secure it to the vehicle. Make sure the module and harnessing do not interfere with any moving parts, and do
not obstruct access to diagnostic ports, or fuse boxes. It should be up in the dash, high enough that it won't get
kicked by accident.
♦ Once the module is secured, route the wires to the previously stripped wires they correspond to (leave the
engine compartment wires for last). Tie strap them up as you go, so they do not interfere with anything else.
♦ When all of the passenger compartment wires are ran to their locations, you can route the engine
compartment wires through the firewall.
♦ With the engine compartment wires out the way, you can begin making the connections in the passenger
compartment. Strip about an inch of wire past where the connection is going to be made. This extra bit of wire
is wrapped around the exposed OEM wire to secure in place while you are soldering.
♦ When all of the wires have been connected, solder the connections. When the solder has cooled, the
connections are then individually taped up, to isolate them.
♦ Return to the engine bay and route the tach and hood pin wire to their corresponding connections.
♦ Solder the engine compartment wire once the connections are made. When the solder has cooled, the
connections are then individually taped up, to isolate them.
♦ Use your DMM to verify that your ground location is good before grounding the module.
♦ The last step before programming is to power up the module. Replace the power fuses on the power wire
fuse holders. The module will flash the Park lights twice to confirm the power-up.
CT-3271
p.5
A basic introduction to the Relay
What is a relay?
A relay is a switching device that responds to a small current or voltage change by activating switches or other
devices in an electric circuit such as an electromagnetic switch, remote controlled switch, a switching device.
Why are relays used?
Relays can have several purposes in remote car starter installations. They are mainly used for isolation,
inversion, interruption, strengthening current, and for powering multiple wires from one source safely.
How does a relay work?
The basic relay consists of a coil and a set of contacts. The most common relay mechanism is the
electromagnetic mechanism. When voltage is applied to the coil, current passes through the wire and creates a
magnetic field. This magnetic field pulls the contacts together and holds them until the current flow in the coil
has stopped.
Relays come in all varieties and types, but for the applications that concern us, we will concentrate on the
single pole double throw (SPDT) 12 volts relay.
Naming Convention
Usually the relay’s manufacturer will include an electrical diagram on the relay displaying the role of each
terminal and how they interact with each other.
These terminal numbers are standard, and can be used with any SPDT relay.
85 & 86: The coil. These inputs energize the coil when one is +12 volts, and the other is negative. They are
usually non-polarized, so it does not matter which one is positive (+) or negative (-).
87: Normally Open (N/O). When the coil is energized, 87 is connected to 30.
87A: Normally Closed (N/C). When the coil is at rest, 87A is connected to 30.
30: Common. When the relay is at rest, 30 is connected to 87A, when the coil is energized, it is then moved
and makes contact with 87. (Note: in a SPDT relay, 30 can never be connected to 87 and 87A at the same
time, 30 is connected to either 87 or 87A)
What happens
When there is no voltage across the coil (terminals 85 and 86), the relay's movable contact arm (connected to
terminal 30) is held, by spring tension, against terminal 87A (normally closed circuit).
When 12 volts is applied to the coil (terminals 85 and 86), the arm (connected to terminal 30) is pulled by the
electromagnet (coil) so that it physically connects to terminal 87 (normally open circuit).
When 12 volts is applied to the coil (terminals 85 and 86), the arm (connected to terminal 30) is pulled by the
electromagnet (coil) so that it physically connects to terminal 87 (normally open circuit).
Remember, there is no polarity on a relay’s coil. This means that you may apply positive from the battery to
either terminal 85 or 86, and then ground the other terminal to activate the relay. In other words, you may use
either a positive or negative trigger to energize the relay.
Keep in mind, when the relay is energized, if the positive or the ground connection on the coil is broken, the
arm switches the connection between 30 back from 87 to 87a.
Quenching Diodes
It was said earlier that a relay energizes itself by applying positive from the battery to either 85 or 86 and
grounding the other terminal. This is not absolutely true, some relays are “polarized” if they have a quenching/
suppression diode (A diode installed between the coil terminals 85 and 86, could be internal or external).
To activate the coil on this type of relay, make sure that the +12 volts trigger is on the same terminal of the
relay as the anode (+ or non striped side) side of the quenching/suppression diode, and that the negative
trigger is on the same terminal of the relay as the cathode (- or striped side) of the quenching/ suppression
diode.
When a relay’s coil is energized, a magnetic field is created and energy is stored in the coil. When power is
removed from the coil, the magnetic field collapses. This causes a reverse voltage to be generated and can
sometimes reach 200 volts. A quenching diode absorbs this reverse voltage spike.
A closer look at a relay
Now that you know what the main inscriptions are on the relay, take a look on the side, and you will see another
inscription: 12 VDC, 40/ 30 A.
12 VDC: This indicates the coil voltage rating. For an automotive relay, it's usually 12 volts DC.
40/ 30 A: This indicates the current carrying capability of the contacts 30, 87, & 87A.
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CT-3271
40: Indicates that the normally closed circuit (30 and 87a) can safely handle a maximum of 40 amps of current.
30: Indicates that the normally open circuit (30 and 87) can safely handle a maximum of 30 amps of current.
Examples:
The following examples demonstrate some of the most common uses for relays: isolation, inversion,
interruption, strengthening current, and for powering multiple wires from one source safely.
Powering multiple wires from one source safely
Example: Powering a second ignition
Problem: You need to power multiple ignition wires to remote start the vehicle, but your module only has one
ignition output available.
Solution: You will need to add a second ignition relay to power the second-ignition wire. (Jumping ignition 1 to
ignition 2 is never recommended Always use a relay. The vehicle circuits are isolated for a reason; the
wiring of the remote star module should reflect this.)
The Relay Connections
85: Connects in parallel to the ignition 1 output from the remote start module. This becomes the positive side of
the coil.
86: Connects to the Ground Out When Running wire from the remote start module. This becomes the
negative side of the coil.
87: Connected to a fused +12 volts source, that is capable of supplying power for the vehicle's second ignition
wire. This becomes the source of power for the 2nd ignition wire.
87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
30: Connects to the vehicle's second ignition wire. This becomes the output of the 2nd ignition relay.
Comments: The relay is only energized when the vehicle is running by remote start. When started with the key,
the relay is not energized and the integrity of the stock system has been preserved.
Isolation:
Example: Isolating a park light output
Problem: Some vehicle circuits need to be isolated from feedback. In some cases, when a vehicle is remote
started, feed back occurs on a circuit, and powers another device or switch, that was not intended to be
powered during the remote starts.
The following example will be a positive (+) park light circuit that feeds back and activates the windshield wipers
during remote starts.
Solution: When power is applied to the OEM park light wire it back feeds through the park light switch, and
activates the wipers. Where the connection was made from the start module’s park light output, and the
vehicle's park light circuit, the OEM park light wire is cut to isolate the park light switch and the actual parking
lights. A relay is added to the park light circuit so that power from the remote start module is only sent to the
parking lights and not the parking light switch.
The Relay Connections
85: Connects to the +12 volt park light output from the remote start module. This becomes the positive side of
the coil.
86: Connects to a negative source (where the remote start module is grounded). This becomes the negative
side of the coil.
87: Connects to the +12 volt park light output from the remote start module. This becomes the power supply for
the vehicle's park lights.
The OEM park light wire is cut. The side that is still connected to the switch becomes the “switch side”. The side
that is still connected to the parking lights becomes “parking lights side”.
87A: Connects to the “switch side” of the cut OEM park light wire.
30: Connects to the “park light side” of the cut OEM park light wire.
Comments: When the relay is at rest, the OEM park light wire is connected (through 87A & 30) and allowed to
operate normally. When the remote start module powers the park lights, the OEM park light wire is opened, and
power from the remote start module is sent only to the actual parking lights ( from 87 through 30).
Inversion:
Example: Activating a positive trunk release switch
Problem: The vehicle's power trunk release switch is activated by a positive (+) pulse, and the remote start
module's trunk output is negative (-).
Solution: A relay is used to invert the negative signal from the start module to a positive signal before it is sent
to the OEM switch.
CT-3271
p.7
The Relay Connections
85: Connects to the start module's trunk release output wire. This becomes the negative side of the coil.
86: Connects to a fused +12 volts source. This becomes the positive side of the coil.
87: Connects to a fused +12 volts source. This becomes the supply for the positive trunk release.
87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
30: Connects to the OEM trunk wire in the vehicle.
Comments: At rest, the trunk switch is allowed to operate normally. When the trunk button is pressed, the
negative trunk output from the remote start module triggers the relay. When the relay is activated, +12 volts
from 87 is sent through 30, and the OEM trunk switch is activated, by the positive pulse.
Interruption:
Example: Creating a starter disable relay to prevent unauthorized starting of the vehicle.
Problem: The OEM starter circuit needs to be disabled only when theft is attempted.
Solution: A relay is used to interrupt the OEM starter wire. There is an output on the remote start module
especially for this purpose (starter disable output).
The Relay Connections
85: Connects to the starter disable output wire from the remote start module. This becomes the negative trigger
for the coil.
86: Connects to the vehicle's ignition wire. This becomes the positive trigger for the coil.
87: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
The vehicle's OEM start wire is cut. The side of the wire that is still connected to the ignition switch becomes
the “key side” of the starter wire. The side of the wire that is still connected to the starter motor becomes the
“starter side” of the of the starter wire.
87A: Connects to the “key side” of the cut OEM starter wire.
30: Connects to the “starter side” of the cut OEM start wire.
Comments: At rest the relay is not active, and +12 volts on the starter wire passes through the relay (through
87A & 30) normally. The starter disable output wire on the remote start module is activated when the BUTTON I
is pressed on the remote control.
When a theft attempt happens, and the thief powers the ignition circuit (to hot-wire the vehicle), and the starter
disable was armed (by the BUTTON I on the remote), the starter disable relay activates. The OEM start wire is
now open, (does not make connection) because 30 is no longer connected to 87A, and the vehicle is unable to
start.
Strengthening Current:
Example: Strengthening an output
Problem: A vehicle has a negative (-) trigger trunk release wire. The module has a negative trunk release
output wire. The remote start module is unable to supply the necessary current to activate the vehicle's trunk
release wire.
Solution: A relay is used to provide the necessary negative current to active the vehicle's trunk release wire.
The Relay Connections
85: Connects to the start module's trunk release wire output. This becomes the negative trigger for the coil.
86: Connects to a fused +12 volt source.
87: Connects to a negative source (where the remote start module is grounded). This becomes the supply for
activating the vehicle's trunk release wire.
87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
30: Connects to the vehicle's trunk release wire.
Comments: At rest the relay is not active and the vehicle's trunk release switch is allowed to operate normally.
When the trunk release button is pressed, the start module's trunk release output activates the relay. The
ground signal is sent from 87 through 30 to the vehicle's trunk release wire activating the switch and opening
the trunk.
Clutch Bypass
In order to remote start a manual transmission vehicle, the clutch switch must be bypassed. Clutch safety
switch circuits can take many forms. Listed below are the most common ones. When testing to determine the
type of clutch circuit, it is recommended to use a computer safe logic probe. Some vehicles may also have a
separate or combined switch on the clutch pedal for cruise control. Usually a cruise control switch reacts the
moment you touch the pedal, where as a clutch switch reacts only when the pedal is near the floor. Once the
circuit type has been determined, you must recreate what happens electrically at the switch, with the remote
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CT-3271
start module, to bypass the clutch during remote starts. Relays are often used to accomplish this. Always use
the Ground Out When Running (G.O.) as the negative trigger on your clutch bypass relays, as it is only active
during remote starts.
NEVER permanently bypass a clutch switch. Do not attempt this if you are unfamiliar with the use of relays,
and diode isolation.
Before any Hot wiring attempts:
Test and record the way each wire tests in the following positions:
With out the pedal pressed:
•
•
•
test the wires with the Ignition OFF
test the wires with the Ignition ON
test the wires with the Key in the start position
With the pedal pressed:
•
test the wires with the Ignition OFF
•
test the wires with the Ignition ON
•
test the wires with the Key in the start position
•
With this information for every wire at the switch, determining what type of clutch switching system you
have will be easy.
Direct Feed:
The simplest type of system to test and bypass is the “Direct Feed” system. This circuit simply interrupts the
+12v signal starter wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. There are 2 wires in this circuit, the “key
side” wire which goes from the clutch pedal to the Ignition switch, and the “solenoid side” which goes from the
clutch switch to the starter motor. When the key is turned to the start position without pressing the pedal, you
will test 12v only on one of the wires at the clutch switch, this is the key side. When the pedal is pressed down,
and the key is in the crank position, the other wire will also read 12 volts; this is the solenoid side wire. To
confirm you have a direct feed clutch switch, hot wire the “solenoid side” wire with a fused +12 volts and the
starter motor will crank. Connect the starter output from the remote starter to solenoid side wire.
Note: In the next two systems a Relay in the vehicle interrupts the start wire between the Ignition switch and
the starter motor. With the key in the START position, and the clutch pedal pressed, the relay energizes and
allows the start signal to reach the starter motor. In these systems a wires from the clutch triggers the relay,
when the pedal is pressed. There will be another wire at the clutch switch that supplies the signal to the trigger
wire (either positive or negative, depending on the system)
Negative:
In a Negative system, when the clutch is pressed; a negative signal is sent to the relay, the relay energizes,
when the Key is turned to the start position the 12volts from the start wire is allowed to pass through the relay
and to starter motor. One of the wires at the clutch will test as negative, this is the supply wire. The relay's
negative trigger wire will only show negative when the pedal is pressed (some vehicle's also require the Ignition
system to be powered). To confirm you have a Negative system, hot wire the negative trigger wire by jumping it
to a ground source with your fused test jumper. You should now be able to turn the key to the start position and
engage the start motor without pressing in the clutch pedal. If there is nothing else connected to the Ground
Out When Running (G.O.) wire from the remote start module, the G.O. wire should be strong enough to trigger
the vehicle's clutch relay. If there are other devices or modules connected to the G.O. Wire, a relay (and
diodes) may have to be added to strengthen the negative current going to the clutch bypass.
Positive:
Very similar to the negative system, except that the vehicle's clutch relay is trigger by 12 volts, instead of a
negative signal. In a Positive system, when the clutch is pressed; a positive (12 volts) signal is sent to the relay,
the relay energizes, when the Key is turned to the start position the 12 volts from the start wire is allowed to
pass through the relay and to starter motor. One of the wires at the clutch will test as 12 volts, this is the supply
wire. The relay's positive trigger wire will only show positive when the pedal is pressed (some vehicle's also
require the Ignition system to be powered). To confirm you have Positive system, hot wire the positive trigger
wire by jumping it to a 12 volt source with your fused test jumper. You should now be able to turn the key to the
start position and engage the start motor, without pressing in the clutch pedal. A relay is needed to send 12
volts to the trigger wire from the start module during start attempts.
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p.9
Normally Closed ( N/C ):
Note: There are different types of this system used by various vehicle manufacturers; the following is used to
illustrate how these systems work in general.
A Relay is also used in these types of systems to interrupt the starter wire. In the previous two examples, the
clutch was bypassed by engaging the clutch relay; with this system you bypass the clutch by preventing the
clutch relay from engaging. When the Ignition Key is turned to the start position the relay energizes and
interrupts the start wire, when the pedal is not pressed. When the Ignition key is turned to the start position, and
the pedal is pressed, the relay does not energize, and the start signal reaches the starter motor.
In a N/C system the supply wire is connected to the relay's trigger wire at rest (pedal not pressed). When the
pedal is pressed, the connection is broken between the supply wire and the relay's trigger wire (this disengages
the relay). To verify that you have a N/C system, disconnect the clutch switch and the vehicle should start
without the clutch pedal being pressed. When you test the trigger wire with your logic probe, the trigger wire will
test as 12 volts or negative when the pedal is not pressed, it should read as an open circuit ( or Float) when the
pedal is pressed.
PLEASE NOTE
Your probe may also show feed back from the other end of the circuit. The Polarity of the Trigger wire does not
matter in this system, since all you need to do in order to bypass it is to use a relay to interrupt it during remote
starts.
Harness Description
When connecting the Module, it is important to make sure the connector with the Ground wire is
connected first before making the 12-volt connections. Should the unit be powered before being
grounded, there could be serious damage to internal components of the unit. Be careful not to
power up a Module before it is properly grounded. To avoid any accident, it is recommended to
pull out the fuses from their sockets before the installation, and to put them back during the very
last steps.
6-Pin Main Ignition Harness
Wire
A
RED
+12 V
Battery
B
PURPLE (+)
30 A
starter
output
C
RED
+12 V
Battery
D
YELLOW (+)
30 A
Ignition
output
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Description
Connect to the largest 12 V supply wire at the Ignition harness. Ensure
that the OEM power wire is fused for more than 30 A.
NOTE: certain new vehicles have no suitable 12 volts source at the
IGNITION switch (the 12 Volt wire is too small to supply the necessary
current). In this case, the fuse box, or the B+ connection on the battery
is recommended.
Connect to the Starter wire of the vehicle (at the IGNITION switch).
The source wire should have +12 V with the Ignition Key in the
CRANK position only.
Connect to the largest 12 V supply wire at the Ignition harness. Ensure
that the OEM power wire is fused for more than 30 A.
NOTE: certain new vehicles have no suitable 12 volts source at the
IGNITION switch (the 12 Volt wire is too small to supply the necessary
current). In this case, the fuse box, or the B+ connection on the battery
is recommended.
Connect to Ignition wire of the vehicle. The source wire should have
+12 V with the Ignition Key in the IGNITION ON (RUN) and CRANK
positions.
Warning! Some vehicles have more than one IGN wire at the
IGNITION switch for powering the heater blower motor. Use the 5th
CT-3271
E
ORANGE (+)
30 A
Accessories
output
F
GREEN (+)
30 A
5th relay
output
relay (pin F) and extra relays to power up any extra IGN. wires if
necessary. DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch, this will
compromise the OEM electrical system.
This wire is for powering the heater blower motor. It is usually classed
as an ACC. (no power in the CRANK position.) if it tests as an
IGNITION (power in the crank pos.) then power it as an IGNITION (5th
relay, or extra relay).
Warning! Some vehicles have more than one ACC wire at the
IGNITION switch for powering the heater blower motor. Use the 5th
relay (pin F) and extra relays to power up any extra ACC. wires if
necessary. DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch; this will
compromise the OEM electrical system.
This high-current output can be used to power a 2nd IGNITION or a
2nd ACCESSORY or a 2nd STARTER WIRE. See jumper settings in
5th relay section later in the guide for correct output position (page-14).
Additional IGNITIONS, ACCESSORIES, or STARTER WIRES must
use external relays. DO NOT JUMP WIRES at the IGNITION switch,
this will compromise the OEM electrical system.
5-Pin Secondary Harness
1
Wire
BLACK (–)
Chassis
ground
input
2
PURPLE
(AC)
TACH
input
3
GRAY (–)
Hood
Switch
input
4
ORANGE
(+) Brake
Switch
input
5
YELLOW
(+)
+12 V
Parking
Light
output
CT-3271
Description
This wire must be connected to bare, unpainted metal (the Chassis or
true Body ground). It is preferable to use a factory ground bolt rather
than a self-tapping screw. Screws tend to get loose or rusted over time
and can cause erratic problems.
This wire tells the Module if the Engine is running or not. It requires at
least 1.8 volts (AC) and 1.5 Hz (or faster) at idle. Common Tach
references are: the negative side of an injector, the negative side of an
Ignition Coil, Camshaft sensor, Crankshaft sensor or the Engine Control
Module (ECM).
NOTE: A Tach signal that is too low will cause the Module to “over
crank” and a Tach signal that is too high will cause the Module to “under
crank”.
Connect this wire to the Hood Pin-switch supplied. This input will disable
or shut down the Remote Starter when the Hood is opened. It is also
used for programming and therefore it is essential that it is installed.
This wire must be connected to the Brake Light switch of the vehicle.
The wire should be +12 V only while the Brake Pedal is pressed. This
input will shut down the Remote Starter if the Brake Pedal is pressed. It
is also used for programming and therefore it is essential that it is
installed.
This wire provides a +12 V output (15 A max.) and must be connected
to the Parking Light wire that tests +12 V when the Parking lights are
ON.
NOTE: Ensure that the voltage does not vary when the dimmer control
switch is turned up or down. If this is the case, selected the wrong wire.
There is also a negative Parking Light output. Only one of these two
different outputs needs to be connected.
p.11
12-Pin Accessories Harness
Wire
Description
500 mA negative output. This output can be used to control Trunk
release (1-sec. pulse).
Note: AUX 3 (TRUNK) operates only when Ignition is OFF or when the
vehicle is running under remote control.
1
BLUE (–)
AUX 3
(Trunk)
output
2
BROWN (–)
Lock
output
Programmable 500 mA, 7/10sec., or 4 sec negative outputs.
3
GREEN (–)
Unlock
output
Programmable 500 mA, 7/10sec., 4sec., or double 1/4 sec. pulse
negative output.
4
WHITE /
BROWN
(–)
Arm output
5
WHITE /
GREEN
(–)
Disarm
output
500 mA ground output when the
button is pressed. This output is
activated 500 ms before the LOCK pulse and deactivated at the same
time as the LOCK pulse ends.
Note: The system will also give an ARM/REARM pulse on this wire
when it shuts down the vehicle after a remote start.
6
BLUE /
WHITE
(+)
Positive
Door input
7
WHITE /
ORANGE
(–)
Starter Kill
output
8
9
p.12
ORANGE
(–) Parking
Brake
input
PURPLE
(–)
External
Trigger
input
500 mA ground output when the
button is pressed. This wire is for
disarming OEM Alarm systems.
Note: System will also give a DISARM pulse before remote start.
This input should be used in vehicles that use a positive-switching
Dome Light circuit. Connect to a Dome Light wire testing +12 V with a
Door open.
CAUTION! You can only use either the NEGATIVE DOOR INPUT or
the POSITIVE DOOR INPUT wire. It is essential that the Module be
connected in such a way as to allow each one of the Doors to be
detected by the remote starter.
The unit is equipped with a selectable passive- or active-arming Starter
Kill circuit that will immobilize the vehicle when the system is armed.
This wire will provide a constant 500-mA negative output when the
system is armed (locked by remote) or if remote started. This wire
should be connected to a Single Pole Double-Throw Relay (This wire
will connect to Pin 85, on the Relay, and Pin 86 will be connected to the
Ignition wire).
A second benefit of the Starter Kill is the Anti-Grind feature. When the
vehicle has been remote started the Anti-Grind prevents the starter
motor from re-engaging when the ignition key is inserted in the Ignition
switch and accidentally turned to the CRANK position (The Starter Kill
output becomes active during remote starts).
This input is for manual transmission vehicle ONLY. It is used in the
Ready Mode sequence and must be connected. The Parking Brake
input must be given a ground signal (-) when the Parking Brakes are
applied.
The External Trigger wire can be used for remote-starting/ stopping the
vehicle with an external device. When the vehicle is running, triggering
this input will also activate Idle Mode.
CT-3271
10
WHITE (–)
Ground
out when
running
11
GRAY (–)
Negative
Door input
12
YELLOW
(+)
Glow-plug
input
CT-3271
This wire provides a constant 500 mA negative output while the vehicle
is remote started. The output becomes active 1.5sec before Ignition,
and becomes inactive when the Module shuts down. The output can be
used to activate external relays, bypass kits, etc.
CAUTION! If multiple relays or modules are connected to the Ground
Out wire, ensure that they are all diode isolated in order to avoid
feedback and damaging the vehicle.
This input should be used in vehicles that use a negative-switching
Dome Light circuit. Connect to a wire that tests ground with a door
open.
CAUTION! You can only use either the NEGATIVE DOOR INPUT or
the POSITIVE DOOR INPUT wire. It is essential that the Module be
connected in such a way as to allow each one of the Doors to be
detected by the remote starter.
This positive input will monitor the Glow Plug Light in Diesel Mode: it will
wait until the Glow Plug Light goes out to crank the Engine. Connect to
the side of the Glow Plug Light that becomes positive when the Light is
on.
Note: In Diesel Mode there is an 18-sec. crank timing delay (or
approximately 25-sec. if the run time is set to 30 min.): if the Glow Plug
Light is still on after the delay expires, the module will proceed to start
the Engine.
(Also known as the “wait-to-start light”.) The purpose of the Glowplug circuit on diesel vehicles is to pre-heat the Combustion Chamber
before the vehicle is started.
When a Remote Starter is installed on a diesel vehicle, the Glow- plug
section of the Ignition circuit must be activated and allowed to operate
before the vehicle is remote-started. For that purpose, the Glow-plug
input wire of the module must be connected to the Glow-plug indicator
light of the vehicle. The module will only accept positive Glow-plug input
signals, if the signal is negative, use a relay to invert its polarity. A diode
must be added between the negative Glow-plug trigger on the relay and
the negative Glow-plug wire of the car. This is to prevent feedback
effects on the Glow-plug indicator light on the instrument cluster: the
light on the dash would come on because of the feedback, even though
the circuit is off.
When the user remote-starts the vehicle:
The module will power up the Ignition circuit and wait to engage the
Starter Motor while the Glow-plug indicator light is still on.
The module will engage the Starter Motor as soon as the Glow-plug
light (+) goes out.
Minimum waiting time is 4 seconds.
Maximum waiting time is 30 seconds (approximately).
If no Glow-plug wire is found on the vehicle, the Glow-plug input on the
module may be “timed out”. The module will power up the Ignition and
Glow-plug circuits and simply wait for the time-out before starting.
Keeping the Glow-plug input wire of the module unconnected will hold
the ignition on for the preprogrammed delay.
Warning! Please program the tach before connecting the glow-plug
input to the vehicle.
p.13
3-pin Harness
Wire
Description
1
GRAY/ LIGHT
BLUE
N/A
2
BLUE / WHITE
(–)
Horn output
500mA negative Horn output.
3
YELLOW /
WHITE
(–)
Parking lights
output
500 mA negative Parking Light output
Note: Ensure that the voltage does not vary when the dimmer control
switch is turned up or down. If this is the case, you have selected the
wrong wire.
WARNING! There is also a positive Parking Light output. Only one of
these two different outputs needs to be connected.
Auxiliary Relay
Fifth Relay Output (2nd IGN, ACC or CRANK)
Remote car starters of this series are
equipped with an on-board high-current
programmable 5th relay that can be used to
power a second ignition, accessory or crank
wire. The unit uses 3 sets of pins; each set
corresponds to a specific function of the
output. In order to activate one of the three
possible functions, you must place the
jumper (supplied) on one of the three sets of
pins and connect the 14 AWG wire to the
second IGN. / ACC. / CRANK wire of the
vehicle.
Caution! Only one set of pins can be used at one time. Using more than one jumper may result in
serious damage to the vehicle.
The relay output rating on this unit is 25A at most. Defective oem solenoid switches can sometimes
draw up to 50 or 60a, causing the 30A fuse to blow. Always verify your circuit with an appropriate
measuring device.
p.14
CT-3271
Manual or Automatic Transmission
This module may be installed on vehicles with manual or automatic transmissions. It is originally
configured for manual transmissions. If the vehicle you are working on is automatic, it is mandatory
to make a few quick and easy modifications before the unit is connected. In the event that the
configuration requires changes afterwards, a complete reset will be necessary before those
changes become effective.
To install this unit in a vehicle with a manual transmission:
1. Make sure the Yellow loop on the PC board is connected.
2. Connect the Orange handbrake wire located on the 12-pin harness to the vehicle
handbrake switch.
3. Connect the Blue/White (+) door input OR the Grey (-) door input wire located on the
12-pin harness to the vehicle door pin wire, which monitors all the doors of the vehicle
(only use 1 of the 2 door trigger inputs).
4. Make sure the Purple TACH wire is plugged in – the TACH wire MUST be hooked up
when the module is set for a manual transmission.
5. Make all your regular connections.
6. Power up the unit by first inserting the 5-pin connector, then the 6-pin connector and
finally the 12-pin connector. The parking lights will flash 4 times to confirm that the unit
is in manual mode.
7. When learning the transmitter, the parking lights will flash 5 times quickly, confirming
that the module is set to manual mode.
8. Upon the first successful remote start, the system will lock the transmission
settings to manual mode.
To install this unit in a vehicle with an automatic transmission:
1. Cut the loop on the pc board (Yellow wire).
2. Make sure the Orange handbrake wire is not connected to any of the vehicle circuits.
3. Make all the regular connections.
4. Power up the unit. The parking lights will flash 4 times.
5. When learning the first transmitter, the parking lights will flash 5 times quickly.
6. Upon the first successful remote start once the yellow loop has been cut, the
system will lock the transmission settings to automatic mode.
Note1: When learning the first transmitter after the unit is RESET, the parking lights will flash
5 times quickly followed by 2 slow flashes confirming that the module is set to automatic
mode.
, the parking lights give 3 slow flashes, make sure
Note2: If upon pressing the BUTTON
that the Orange handbrake wire is not connected and that the yellow loop is cut and isolated.
CT-3271
p.15
Entering Programming Mode
This allows the installer to program the unit. Once the system is in programming mode, the
installer will have up to 20 seconds to select one of the sub-menus. If the installer fails to select a
sub-menu before the 20-second delay, the system will exit programming mode.
Using the Antenna Programming Assistance
Using the Hood Pin
Button (A.P.A.B.) (Optional)
• Press and hold the hood pin for 4 seconds.
• Release the hood pin.
The parking lights will turn ON.
• While the parking lights are ON, press the
hood pin once more and release
immediately.
The parking lights will turn ON and stay ON
for 20 seconds.
• You now have 20 seconds to select one of
the sub-menus.
Note: To exit programming mode, close the
hood.
• Make sure the hood is closed.
• Turn the ignition key to the IGNITION ON
(RUN) position.
• Within 5 seconds, press the programming
button on the antenna twice for 1 second
each time.
The LED will come ON solid.
• You now have 20 seconds to select one of
the sub-menus.
Note: To exit programming mode, press on the
antenna button once (the LED will come ON)
and release.
The Programming Assistance Button (a.k.a. PAB)
The PAB is located
on the side of the
module. This push
button mimics the
hood-pin switch in
order to avoid having
to get out of the
vehicle and pressing
the hood-pin switch.
The PAB will work
only when the hood
is up.
Sub-menus:
p.16
a)
b)
c)
d)
Transmitter Programming
Programming Options
Honk Horn Timing Adjustment
Tach Programming
CT-3271
Note: For vehicles that require the ignition to be turned ON to activate the brake, follow these
steps:
a. After flashing the hood, turn the ignition ON; The parking lights will turn OFF
b. After 4 seconds the parking lights will turn ON and then press the brake.
Transmitter Programming Procedure
1. Enter programming mode (page-16) the parking lights will stay on for up to 20 seconds.
2. Before the lights go out, turn the ignition key to the IGNITION ON (RUN) position and
immediately to the OFF position.
and keep it down until the parking lights flash 5 times quickly.
3. Press and hold the BUTTON
4. The transmitter has been stored in memory.
Note: Each unit can store 4 remotes in its memory.
Entering Programming Options
1. Enter programming mode (page-16)  the parking lights will stay on for up to 20 seconds.
2. Before the lights go out, press and hold the brake pedal and then press one of the following
buttons:
................. to access mode 1;
BUTTON
................ to access mode 2;
BUTTON
3. The parking lights will flash once or twice to confirm entry into a mode.
4. Release the brake pedal.
Once the desired mode has been selected, the unit will fall (by default) into function #1 of that
mode; you can now select the option you want in function 1. Once this option has been chosen,
the parking lights will flash one, two or three to confirm your chosen option. You can not jump
over the Function! The unit will move on to function 2 of the mode selected, and so on.
BUTTON
BUTTON
BUTTON
------------------- for ------------------ Option 1,
------------------- for ------------------ Option 2,
&
----------- for ------------------ Option 3;
Programming option
Please refer to the Quick Installation Guide for more information on programming options.
Virtual tach system
Virtual Tach System combines the latest microcontroller technology and a complex algorithm that
took years to develop. VTS is able to effectively monitor the engine starting sequence and release
the starter at the right time without physically connecting the tach wire to the remote starter. The
VTS constantly monitors the data and readjusts itself automatically in order to maximize its
capability to start the engine properly in any weather or deteriorating battery condition
Note: Virtual Tach System is only available in automatic transmission.
CT-3271
p.17
Optional Time Delay Adjustment in Virtual Tach System
Follow these steps to program crank time adjustment, if needed:
1. Enter programming mode (page-16)  the parking lights will stay on for up to 20
seconds.
2. Before the lights go out, press and hold the brake pedal and press button
and
simultaneously  the parking lights will flash 4 times. Do not release the brake pedal.
3. Press button
if you wish to increase the time delay or button
if you want to
decrease it. The time delay will be increased or decreased by 50ms. and the parking
or
is pressed.
lights will flash once every time the button
and
to save the settings you have entered. The parking lights will
4. Press button
flash 5 times.
5. Release the brake pedal – the time delay programming is now complete.
Tach Learning
Tach jumper settings
Some new vehicles have a higher
TACH voltage threshold, which
would fall out of the normal TACH
trigger circuit of the remote car
starter. Changing the jumper to
TACH Threshold HIGH will allow the
module to properly detect the TACH
signal.
Multi-speed Tach Programming Procedure
The system is designed to read a wide range of Tach signals produced by newer Ignition
systems. Note that you should go through the Tach programming procedure every time a new
Unit is installed.
1. Enter programming mode (page-16)  the parking lights will stay on for up to 20
seconds.
and
2. Before the lights go out, press and hold the brake pedal and press
simultaneously  the parking lights will flash 4 times.
3. Release the brake pedal.
4. Start up the engine and allow the vehicle to reach regular engine idle speed.
5. Once the engine is running at normal idle speed, press the brake pedal and keep it
down until you hear the parking lights output click 5 times.
6. Release the brake pedal the tach programming is now complete.
Note: If another Tach programming is required, simply repeat the “Multi Speed Tach
learning”.
p.18
CT-3271
Auto Tach Programming Procedure
This process can be carried out instead of the conventional Tach Programming Procedure.
1. Make sure all the connections are done properly and that the Module has been
powered-up.
2. With the Hood up (Ground on the Hood Pin line), start the vehicle using the key.
3. Start up the engine and allow the vehicle to reach regular engine idle speed.
4. Once the engine is running at normal idle speed, press the brake pedal and keep it
down until you hear the parking lights output click 5 times.
5. Turn the Ignition OFF. At this point, the Tach setting has been programmed.
Note: The “Auto tach programming” can only be carried out once unless the system is reset.
Setting the Unit into Ready Mode
If your vehicle has a manual transmission you must read the following indications. The unit must
first be set to Ready Mode in order to start the vehicle by remote. If the unit is not set to Ready
Mode, it cannot remote start the vehicle.
Please note that Ready Mode can be enabled by the remote or the handbrake, depending on the
option that was selected by your installer. Therefore, you must follow the appropriate procedure
between the two described below in order to set your vehicle into Ready Mode.
Once the system is set to Ready Mode, the vehicle can be remote started and stopped at any time.
The system will exit Ready Mode if a door, the hood or the trunk is opened, if the brake pedal is
pressed, if the parking brake is disengaged or if the ignition key is turned to the IGNITION ON
(RUN) position.
To set the system to Ready Mode:
If Ready Mode is enabled by remote
If Ready Mode is enabled by handbrake
1. Ensure that all the doors, hood and trunk are closed. Make sure that the gear selector
is in the neutral position.
2. With the engine already running, apply
2. With the engine already running, apply
the parking brake twice within 10sec.
the parking brake once and release
Make sure to release the brake pedal.
the brake pedal.
The parking lights will flash 3 times
quickly and remain lit.
Skip to step 4.
3. Within 20 sec. of engaging the parking
brake, press and hold
on the
transmitter.
The parking lights will flash 3 times
quickly and remain lit.
4. Remove the key: the engine will continue running.
5. Exit the vehicle and close all doors, hood and trunk.
6. Press
CT-3271
. The parking lights will flash 2 times to confirm ready mode activation.
p.19
Arming and disarming the starter kill
This added security feature will prevent the vehicle from starting with the Ignition key when the
starter kill is armed. If the system was installed with the starter kill option, you will not be able to
start the vehicle with the key unless the system has been unlocked first or put into Valet mode.
Note: If the Starter Kill is installed, the vehicle will benefit from a protection against starter
motor damage that could occur after remote-starting the engine should the user, by force of
habit, turn the ignition key to the CRANK position.
The Starter Kill (if installed) can be configured by the installer either to Passive Mode (so as to arm
automatically) or Active Mode (so as to require the user’s intervention for arming). By default, the
Remote Car Starter is configured to Passive Mode.
Note: This feature is only available if button
is configured as LOCK or UNLOCK function.
1) Passive mode:
a) To arm the Starter Kill, press the
button on the transmitter, OR
i)
In Passive Mode, the Starter Kill will also arm automatically 1 minute after the
ignition is turned OFF or once the last door is closed (if the doors are monitored).
ii) The LED on the antenna will remain OFF during the countdown preceding the
activation of the Starter Kill.
iii) Once the activation countdown expires, the LED will flash slowly to indicate that
the Starter Kill is now armed.
button on the transmitter.
b) To disarm the Starter Kill, press the
i)
The Starter Kill will automatically rearm itself after 1 minute if no door is left
opened (if the doors are monitored) and the ignition is not turned ON.
2) Active Mode:
a) To arm the Starter Kill, press the
button on the transmitter.
i)
The parking lights will flash once.
ii) The LED on the antenna will flash slowly.
button on the transmitter.
b) To disarm the Starter Kill, press the
i)
The parking lights will flash twice.
ii) The LED on the antenna will remain OFF.
Installation-programmable Features
The following features can be programmed according to the needs of the installation and the
requirements of the user:
Ignition-Controlled Door Locks
•
Ignition Lock disabled: turns OFF the Ignition Lock feature.
•
Ignition Lock enabled: locks all Doors when the key is in the ON position and the user
presses the Brake Pedal. Similarly, when the Ignition key is turned to the OFF position, the
Doors will unlock.
p.20
CT-3271
Secure Lock
This feature allows the module to control certain OEM factory alarm systems without requiring the
use of other wires for disarming the OEM alarm. (Namely, this feature is designed for OEM
systems that use the factory lock wire to arm the alarm and the unlock wire to disarm it.)
1)
Standard Secure Lock disabled: By default, the unit will send a disarm pulse before IGN,
an arm pulse once the car is remote started and an arm pulse 4 sec after the engine shuts
down.
Note: No lock pulse or unlock pulse is sent at any moment of the remote start sequence.
2)
Standard Secure Lock: If this Option is selected, at remote start, the module will send an
unlock/disarm pulse (disarming the factory Alarm) before start-up, lock pulse when the
engine is running, and lock/arm pulse 4 seconds after the engine shuts down.
Note: The unit DOES NOT send an arm pulse while the engine is under remote start.
LED Flashing
•
•
•
Enabled without Starter kill: The LED will only flash if IGN is OFF
Disabled: LED flashing is disabled at all times.
Enabled with Starter kill: The LED will only flash when the Starter kill is armed.
Bypass
Remote starters of this series have the ability to work in two way mode (D2D) with Xpresskit
bypass modules. They also offer one way communication with Xpresskit, ADS and Fortin brand
bypass modules.
Note: For Hardware 5.0 and higher there can only be one bypass connected to the unit.
Engine Run Time
If you have a gas engine, your system can be programmed to run the engine for 3, 15, or 25
minutes (15 min default). If you have a diesel engine, it can be programmed to run the engine for 8,
20, or 30 minutes (20 min default).
Idle Mode
Convenience feature: Idle Mode allows you to keep the engine running and the doors
locked while you stop, for example, at a convenience store or for a short delivery.
This feature allows you to let the remote starter take over control of the vehicle (i.e. no Key in the
Ignition Switch) while the engine is running.
If your vehicle has an automatic transmission, proceed as follows to set the system to Idle Mode:
1. With the engine running, make sure to release the brake pedal and press the
BUTTON on the transmitter until the parking lights come ON.
2. Remove the ignition key from the ignition switch.
The engine will continue running.
3. Exit the vehicle and close all doors, hood and trunk.
If your vehicle has a manual transmission, Idle Mode can be activated through the same routine
as that used for Ready Mode (page-19); for the last step, the buttons
&
are pressed
together to lock the doors and leave the engine running.
Note1: The engine will continue running until the user re-enters the vehicle or until the expiration of
the engine run time.
CT-3271
p.21
Note2: If the pre-programmed run-time expires or if the user shuts down the engine by remote
control, the vehicle will enter Ready Mode.
Caution!!! Do not leave children or pets unattended in a vehicle standing in Idle Mode.
Turbo Mode
Note: Turbo Mode can be activated only if
button.
button is programmed as LOCK or UNLOCK
If Turbo Mode is configured at installation, it will allow a turbocharger to idle down after the user
leaves the vehicle: the unit will take over the vehicle and keep it running for 60 seconds (or until it
is shut down by remote control), then shut down the engine.
If the vehicle has an automatic transmission, proceed as follows to set the system to Turbo
Mode:
1. With the engine running, make sure to release the brake pedal and press the
or
on the transmitter until the parking lights come ON.
2. Remove the ignition key from the ignition switch.
The engine will continue running.
3. Exit the vehicle and close all doors, hood and trunk.
&
simultaneously; this will lock the doors and arm the Starter Kill.
4. Press the
5. The engine will shut down after 60 seconds.
If your vehicle has a manual transmission, Turbo Mode can be activated only if
button is
programmed as LOCK or UNLOCK button. Turbo Mode is activated through the same routine as
that used for Ready Mode (page-19); at the last step, the
button is pressed.
Note: The vehicle will enter Ready Mode once the engine run time expires.
Constant lock/unlock or horn output
Horn Confirmation:
This output can be programmed to trigger the horn every time the BUTTON
is pressed to lock
the doors. When horn confirmation is activated, panic mode is enabled. If horn confirmation is
disabled, panic mode will not be available.
Constant output
Note: Option 2 must be chosen in Mode2/ Function4 to enable “constant output feature”.
button for more than 3 seconds will lock or unlock all doors and will
Pressing and holding the
send a negative pulse to the lock or unlock wire as long as the
button is held down (maximum
of 15 seconds). This negative pulse can be configured to activate certain functionalities such as
rolling up the windows.
p.22
CT-3271
Remote function
The remote’s function can be configured as follow:
Mode2/ Function6/ Option 1
• Button
is for the LOCK/ UNLOCK
functions
• Button
is for the START/ STOP
functions
• Buttons
&
(together) is for
the TRUNK release function.
Mode2/ Function6/ Option 2
• Button
is for the STOP functions
(by default).
• Button
is for the START functions
(by default).
• Buttons
&
(together) is for
the TRUNK release function.
Diagnostics via parking lights
Diagnostic table for shutdown.
Parking lights flashes
1
2
3
4
10
Flash for 30sec
Flash for 60sec
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Runtime has expired.
Shutdown by remote.
Ready mode is activated.
Failed start.
Brake shutdown.
Hood shutdown.
Panic mode
Alarm triggered
Cause
Diagnostic table for start failure.
Parking lights flashes
1
(Manual transmission only)
1 slow  2 quick
3
(Automatic transmission
only)
4
6
10
•
•
•
•
•
Cause
Ready mode is not activated.
Tach signal is not learned.
The system is set to valet mode.
The parking brake is active.
Yellow loop is connected.
•
•
•
Brake wire is active
A tach signal is detected before Ignition.
Hood wire is active.
Note: The installer can also use the PRG-1000 to diagnose shutdown and remote start failures.
Refer to the PRG-1000 manual guide.
CT-3271
p.23
Parking lights flash summary table
Parking lights flashes
1
2 slow
2 fast
3 slow
3 fast
4 fast
5 fast
8 fast
ON  twice
ON  3 times
ON for 20sec
Solid ON
Flash for 30sec
Flash for 60sec
ON  twice  twice
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Description
Doors locked.
Trunk released.
Enable LED flashing via remote.
Start signal received from the remote.
Power OFF  ON; transmission is set to automatic.
Doors unlocked
Valet mode is deactivated
Runtime is extended.
Valet mode activated.
Disable LED flashing via remote.
Power OFF  ON; transmission is set to manual.
Enter multi speed tach programming
Enter time delay adjustment in virtual tach system.
Tach signal is learned successfully.
Transmitter is learned successfully.
The unit is reset.
Cold weather mode deactivated
Cold weather mode activated.
Enter programming mode
Engine is running under remote start.
Panic mode is triggered.
Alarm is triggered.
A remote start was attempted while the system is in home valet.
Resetting the module to default features
Resetting the module is not a required process. Most of the time, you can avoid resetting the
module by fixing the issue directly at the root of the cause.
To reset the module:
1. Enter programming mode (page-16)
2. In 20 seconds or less, press and release the brake pedal 6 times.
3. The parking lights will flash 8 times, confirming the reset.
On some vehicles such as BMWs and certain Volkswagens, pressing the brake pedal without the
key in the ignition ON position will not work. If this is the case, simply leave the ignition ON while
performing the reset.
p.24
CT-3271
Troubleshooting Poor Transmitting Range
In order to ensure optimal range, the antenna should be installed at least 7.5 cm (3 in.) from the
roof – 2.5 cm (one inch) below the tint strip is generally the best location. Install the antenna as far
as possible from radio antennas, GPS, Onstar® or factory compasses.
Many factors may affect the operating range of the transmitter. Some of these are:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
The condition of the battery in the transmitter.
The operating environment (for example: downtown radio-frequency noise, airports, cellular
phone towers…)
Metal: any type of metal will affect operating range. This includes the metal in the car.
The shape of the vehicle can affect range as well; vans in general have an especially poor
range.
The shape of the roof and A-pillars brings about considerable radio-frequency deflection (in
this case the signal from the remote control). As a result, the direction in which the vehicle is
facing in relation to the remote control can affect the range. Straight on – standing in front of
the vehicle – generally gives you the greatest range; the second best performance is from
the back. Using the remote control from either side of the vehicle will usually give the lowest
range.
The range will be significantly lower in a crowded parking lot than in open space.
Always hold the transmitter high, approximately at shoulder height. Holding the transmitter
against your chin will also increase your range: your head acts as an antenna.
The operating range will be somewhat lower on vehicles equipped with an aftermarket or
factory alarm.
Windows and windshields tinted with lead or metallic tints will decrease the operating range.
The antenna cable may have been cut and/or is grounded out on the chassis. Try using
another cable.
The receiver may be faulty. Try replacing it with another.
Testing
Before putting the vehicle back together, it is recommended to check that the system operates
properly. The following testing procedures should be used to verify proper installation and
operation of the system. Before testing, make sure that all connections are soldered and that the
unit is plugged in.
 If installed on a MANUAL transmission, make sure the system properly enters and exits
ready mode (see earlier in this Guide).
 Remote-start the engine and listen for starter drag. If the starter cranks for too long, carry out
another tach programming procedure.
 Hood switch shutdown. With the vehicle running under the remote car starter, open the hood; the
vehicle should shut down. If it does not shut down, check the hood pin-switch and its connector.
 Brakes shutdown circuit. With the vehicle running under the remote car start, press and release
the brake pedal. The engine should shut down immediately. If the engine continues to run, check
the brakes switch connection.
CT-3271
p.25
Troubleshooting Q & A
The following are some common installation related issues.
A problem or symptom is given and then possible solutions and/or suggestions as to areas to verify are
enumerated.
1. I cannot program the remote control.
• Do the parking lights come on when you open the hood? (Does the hood pin work?)
• Is the antenna plugged in?
• Does the light on the remote control turn on when you press the button?
• Is the Ignition wire connected properly?
• Are you waiting too long between programming steps?
 After flashing the hood pin turn the key to ON, wait 2 seconds.
 Turn the key OFF, ON, OFF then keep pressing the LOCK button repeatedly until you get 5
light flashes from the module.
The entire process should take less than 20 seconds.
2. The car won't start by remote.
• Does the light on the remote light up when you press the button?
• Is the starter in valet mode?
• Does the vehicle have passive antitheft security (PATS, VATS, PASSLOCK, TRANSPONDER)?
3. The starter motor cranks for 8 seconds but the car won't start.
• Are you on the correct ignition wire?
• Does the car have more then 1 ignition?
4. The car cranks briefly then quits.
• Have you bypassed the passive security (PASSLOCK, PASSKEY III, PATS...)?
• Have you adjusted tach?
• Is the vehicle's battery weak?
5. The park lights come on for 8 seconds but the starter motor will not crank.
• Does the car have an after market starter disable?
• Have you bypassed the VATS or Passlock II?
• Is the start wire hooked up correctly?
• Has the clutch been bypassed properly (for standard transmissions)?
6. The car starts but starter stays engaged.
• Make sure ignition and crank are not common with the key out (connected at rest). May have to add
relay (i.e. Tercel, Altima)
• Did you make an auto tach adjustment?
• Weak tach signal?
• Bad ground?
7. The car starts by remote but then the starter re-engages.
• Check ground wire
• Is tach programmed?
8. The car starts on its own.
• Is the module in cold weather mode?
• Program remote 4 times. (another remote may be programmed to your module)
• Is external trigger shorting out to ground?
9. The factory alarm goes off when I start by remote.
• Did you hook the disarm wire?
• Do you have the correct OEM disarm wire?
10. The ABS and the CHECK ENGINE light come on in the dash.
• Are you missing a second ignition or accessory?
11. The car starts and runs but the heater blower motor doesn't work.
• Incorrect accessory wire
• Does it have more then one accessory?
p.26
CT-3271
12. The car starts, the heater works but not the air conditioning system.
•
Missing second accessory (common on some Fords)
•
Missing second ignition. (common on some GMs)
•
Check for a weak car battery. (Try using the cold weather mode option)
13. The CHECK ENGINE light comes on and the vehicle doesn't shift, it feels sluggish.
14. On cold mornings the park lights come on, go out, and then flash 2 times slowly.
15. The car doesn't start and the park lights flash 4 times.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
• Check brake circuit.
• Check for blown rear park light (feedback).
The vehicle runs for 8 seconds then shuts down. I have 12 volts on starter wire the whole time but
no over crank.
• Did you make an auto tach adjustment? (New GM trucks, cars and minivans)
The car runs for about 5 seconds, shuts down and restarts; it does this 3 times.
• Check voltage on tach wire.
• Try an alternate tach source.
The car starts by remote but the range is poor.
• Are the car windows tinted?
• Heated front windshield? (Taurus, Crown
Victoria)
• Does it have an after market alarm?
• Metal film in windshield?
• Is the antenna mounted below the tint
(GM minivans)
strip?
• Using the correct remote?
• Change remote battery.
I get excellent range when the vehicle is not running but almost none when it is running.
• Check for loose spark plug boot or faulty ignition wires, cracked cap.
• Try disconnecting blower motor.
After about a half hour almost no range at all until the vehicle is started with the key again.
• Does the vehicle have factory alarm/ keyless entry?
• You might have to switch to a 433MHZ module (some GM Trucks, Cavalier/Sunfire,
Breeze/Stratus/Cirrus).
The radio stays on after the vehicle shuts down.
• Retained Accessory Power will keep power to radio for approx. 10 - 15 minutes or until it sees a door
open. (Fords, GM's R.A.P.)
The headlights stay on after car shuts down by remote.
• Switch headlight switch from auto to normal. (Toyota)
• On some vehicles, opening a door will shut the head lights off. Pulse the drivers door pin with the
rearm wire.
I get no 12V reading at all at the brake pedal, depressed or not.
• Some vehicles require ignition be on. (BMW)
The park lights flash on their own.
• Check hood pin adjustment.
• Bad ground?
I blow fuses every time I try the remote door locks and I have already installed a relay.
• Door locks are reverse polarity, and not positive trigger.
I blow fuses every time I try the remote trunk release and I have already installed a relay.
• Trunk3 release is reverse polarity, and not positive trigger.
CT-3271
p.27