Motobecane MULTI-SPEED BICYCLES Owner`s manual

Owner’s Manual
Multi-Speed Bicycles
2
Owner’s Manual
for multi-speed bicycles
6th Edition
IMPORTANT:
This manual contains important safety, performance
and service information.
Read it before you take the first ride on your new bicycle ,
and keep it for reference.
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4
Contents
page
page
GENERAL WARNING ....................................................
2
D. Control Position Adjustments................................................
13
A special note to parents............................................................
3
E. Brake reach.............................................................................
13
1. First
4. Tech
A. Bike fit....................................................................................
4
B. Safety first .............................................................................
4
1. Wheel Quick Release
C. Mechanical Safety Check.................................................
5
2. Removing and Installing Quick Release Wheels
D. First ride .................................................................................
6
A. Wheels ................................................................................
....................................................
3. Removing and Installing Bolt-On Wheels
B. Seatpost Quick Release
2. Safety
14
14
........ 15
.................... 17
....................................................
18
C. Brakes .................................................................................
19
A. The Basics .............................................................................
6
D. Shifting gears......................................................................
21
B. Riding Safety.........................................................................
7
E. Pedals ..................................................................................
23
C. Off Road Safety...................................................................
8
F. Bicycle Suspension..............................................................
24
G. Tires and Tubes
..................................................................
25
.................................................................
27
D. Wet Weather Riding
..........................................................
19
E. Night Riding.........................................................................
19
F. Downhill or Competition Biking
10
.........................................
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories
5. Service
........... 10
A. Service Intervals
B. If your bycicle sustains an impact....................................
29
3. Fit
A. Standover height...............................................................
11
B. Saddle position...................................................................
11
C. Handlebar height and angle...........................................
12
NOTE: This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use,
service, repair or maintenance manual. Please see your
dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer
may also be able to refer you to classes,clinics or books
on bicycle use, service, repair or maintenance.
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GENERAL WARNING:
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle,
you assume the responsibility
for that risk, so you need to know — and to practice — the rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and
maintenance. Proper use and maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of failure to maintain or inspect
your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices.
•The combination of the
!safety alert symbol and the word
WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous situation
which, if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death.
•The combination of the
! safety alert symbol and the word
CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous situation
which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury, or is an alert against unsafe practices.
•The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation which, if not avoided, could result in
serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose control and fall”. Because any fall can result in serious injury or
even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible injury or death.
Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which can occur while riding, this Manual makes no
representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle
which cannot be predicted or avoided, and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.
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A special note for parents:
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your minor child, and that
includes making sure that the bicycle is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe operating
condition; that you and your child have learned and understand the safe operation of the bicycle; and that
you and your child have learned, understand and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle
and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should
read this manual, as well as review its warnings and the bicycle’s functions and operating procedures with
your child, before letting your child ride the bicycle.
!
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when riding; but also
make sure that your child understands that a bicycle helmet is for bicycling only, and must be removed
when not riding. A helmet must not be worn while playing, in play areas, on playground equipment, while
climbing trees, or at any time while not riding a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious
injury or death.
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1. First
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If
not, before your first ride, have your dealer explain any functions
or features which you do not understand.
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its entiretybefore your first ride; but at the very least, read and make sure that
you understand each point in this section, and refer to the cited
sections on any issue which you don’t completely understand.
B. Safety first
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike,
and follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use and
care of your helmet.
A. Bike fit
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section
3.A. If your
bicycle is too large or too small for you, you may lose control and
fall. If your new bike is not the right size, ask your dealer to
exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section
you adjust your saddle height, make sure that you follow the
Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended
safety equipment? See Section 2. It’s your responsibility to
familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where you ride, and
to comply with all applicable laws.
3.B. If
3. Do you know how to correctly operate your wheel quick
releases? Check Section 4.A.1 to make sure. Riding with an
improperly adjusted wheel quick release can cause the wheel to
wobble or disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious injury or
death.
3. Are saddle and seatpost securely clamped? A correctly
tightened saddle will allow no saddle movement in any direction.
See Section 3.B for details.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”)
pedals, make sure you know how they work (see Section 4.E).
These pedals require special techniques and skills. Follow the
pedal manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment and care.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If
not, see Section 3.C on what you can do about it.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may
be able to adjust their angle and reach. See Section 3.D and 3.E for
details.
5. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section 4.F.
Suspension can change the way a bicycle performs. Follow the
suspension manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment and
care.
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!
CAUTION: Wheels must be true for the brakes to work effectively.
Wheel truing is a skill which requires special tools and experience. Do
not attempt to true a wheel unless you have the knowledge, experience
and tools needed to do the job correctly.
6. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles your
toe or toeclip may be able to contact the front wheel when a
pedal is all the way forward and the wheel is turned. See section
4.E.
Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Sections
4.C). Squeeze the brake levers. Are the brake quick-releases
closed? All control cables seated and securely engaged? Do the
brake pads touch the wheel rim within an inch of brake lever
movement? Can you apply full braking force at the levers without
having them touch the handlebar? If not, your brakes need
adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are properly
adjusted .
Quick Releases: Make sure the front wheel, rear wheel and
seat post quick releases are properly adjusted and in the locked
position. See Section 4.A and 4.B.
Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle and
handlebar stem are parallel to the bike’s center line and clamped
tight enough so that you can’t twist them out of alignment. See
Sections 3.B and 3.C. If not, align and tighten them.
Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are secure
and in good condition. If not, replace them. Make sure the
handlebar ends and extensions are plugged. If not, plug them
before you ride. If the handlebars have bar end extensions, make
sure they are clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them. If not,
tighten them.
C. Mechanical Safety Check
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride.
Nuts, bolts & straps: Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front
wheel off the ground by two or three inches, then let it bounce on
the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a quick visual
and tactile inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or
accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not sure, ask someone
with experience to check.
Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see
Section 4.G.1). Check by putting one hand on the saddle, one on
the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing your
weight on the bike while looking at tire deflection. Compare what
you see with how it looks when you
know the tires are correctly
inflated; and adjust if necessary.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts
in the tread and sidewall. Replace damaged tires before riding
the bike.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake
clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a wheel wobbles side to side
even slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take the bike
to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
!
WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or extensions can cause
you to lose control and fall. Unplugged handlebars or extensions can cut your
body and can cause serious injury in an otherwise minor accident.
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2. Safety
D. First ride
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first
familiarization ride on your new bicycle, be sure to pick a
controlled environment, away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles
or other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls,
features and performance of your new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see
Section 4.C). Test the brakes at slow speed, putting your weight
toward the rear and gently applying the brakes, rear brake first.
Sudden or excessive application of the front brake could pitch you
over the handlebars. Applying brakes too hard can lock up a
wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals , practice getting
in and out of the pedals. See paragraph B.4 above.
If your bike has suspension , familiarize yourself with how the
suspension responds to brake application and rider weight shifts.
See paragraph B.5 above and Section 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D).
Remember to never move the shifter while pedaling backward,
nor pedal backwards after having moved the shifter. This could
jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle and may
cause you to lose control and fall.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check
the comfort.
A. The Basics
Fig. 1
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which
meets the latest certification standards and
follow the helmet manufacturer’s instructions for
fit, use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries
involve head injuries which might have been avoided if the rider
had worn a helmet.
!
WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet while riding may result in serious
injury or death.
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C)
before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle:
brakes (Section 4.C.); pedals (Section 4.E.); shifting (Section4.D.)
4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from
the sharp teeth of chainrings; the moving chain; the turning pedals
and cranks; and the spinning wheels of your bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the
pedals. Never ride barefoot or while wearing sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be
tangled in the bicycle or snagged by objects at the side of
the road or trail.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the
bike is not as it should be, take the bike back to your dealer for
advice.
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• Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt,
dust
and bugs — tinted when the sun is bright, clear when it’s not.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints,
road or sidewalk construction, debris and other obstructions
that could cause you to swerve into traffic, catch your wheel
or otherwise cause you to lose control and have an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which can
occur on a bicycle ride.
6. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a
BMX or mountain bike, can be fun; but it puts incredible stress on
everything from your spokes to your pedals. Riders who insist on
jumping their bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as
to themselves.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Increased
speed means higher risk.
5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or
as close to the edge of the road as is safely possible, in the
direction of the traffic flow or as directed by local laws.
B. Riding Safety
1. Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe
regulations about licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws
regulating bike path and trail use, and so on. Observe helmet laws,
child carrier laws and special bicycle traffic laws. It’s your
responsibility to know and obey the laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and traffic lights; slow down and look
both ways at street intersections. Remember that a bicycle
always
loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be prepared to yield
even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others —
motorists, pedestrians and other cyclists. Respect their rights.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask traffic sounds and
emergency vehicle sirens, distract you from concentrating on
what’s going on around you, and their wires can tangle in the
moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others
do not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your
lane ahead of you, or coming up behind you.
• Parked car doors opening.
9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing
an approved helmet and secured in a correctly mounted child
carrier or a child-carrying trailer. Follow the child carrier or child-
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carrying trailer’s manufacturer’s recommendations regarding
weight limits.
control and falling. Get to know how to handle your bike safely
before trying increased speed or more difficult terrain.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your
complete control of the bicycle, or which could become
entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
to do.
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you plan
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with
others, make sure that someone knows where you’re going and
when you expect to be back.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. They can cause you
injury and damage your bike.
4. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. They can cause you
injury and damage your bike.
13. Don’t weave through traffic or make any moves that may
surprise people with whom you are sharing the road.
5. Learn and obey the local laws regulating where and how
you can ride off-road, and respect private property.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
6. You are sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians,
other cyclists. Respect their rights.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of
alcohol or drugs.
7. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way
that does not frighten or endanger them, and stay far enough
away so that their unexpected moves don’t endanger you.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is
obscured, at dusk or in the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of
these conditions increases the risk of accident.
8. Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion by
riding in mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb the
ecosystem by cutting your own trail or shortcut through vegetation
or streams. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact on the
environment. Leave things as you found them; and always take
out everything you brought in.
C. Off Road Safety
1. The variable conditions and hazards of off-road riding
require close attention and specific skills. Start slowly on easier
terrain and build up your skills. If your bike has suspension, the
increased speed you may develop also increases your risk of losing
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9. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re riding offroad, help may not be close.
lights and car lights in a way that may help you to be seen and
recognized as a moving bicyclist.
!
D. Wet Weather Riding
!
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the
bicyclist and for other vehicles sharing the road. The risk of an accident is dramatically increased in wet conditions.
CAUTION: Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly
to make sure that they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted.
Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any
that are bent or loose.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often
designed as brake straddle cable safety catches which prevent
the straddle cable from catching on the tire tread if the cable
jumps out of its yoke or breaks.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as
well as the brakes of other vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically
reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly as well. This makes it harder
to control speed and easier to lose control. To make sure that you
can slow down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly
and apply your brakes earlier and more gradually than you would
under normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C.
!
WARNING: Do not remove the front or rear reflectors or reflector brackets from your bicycle. They are an integral part of the bicycle’s safety system. Removing the reflectors may reduce your visibility to others using the
roadway. Being struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or
death. The reflector brackets may protect you from the brake straddle cable
catching on the tire in the event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle
cable catches on the tire, it can cause the wheel to stop suddenly, causing
you to loose control and fall.
E. Night Riding
Riding a bicycle at night is many times more dangerous than
riding during the day. A bicyclist is very difficult for motorists and
pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should
never ride at dawn, at
dusk or at night. Adults should not ride at dawn, at dusk or at night
unless it is absolutely necessary
.
!
WARNING: Reflectors are not a substitute for required lights. Riding at dawn,
at dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility without an adequate bicycle
lighting system and without reflectors is dangerous and may result in serious
injury or death.
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street
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If you must ride under conditions of poor visibility, check
and be sure you comply with all local laws about night riding,
and take the following strongly recommended additional
precautions:
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with
correctly positioned and securely mounted reflectors
(see Section 3.B.2).
Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper equipment and to
be familiar with course conditions.
• Purchase and install battery or generator powered head
and tail lights which meet all regulatory
requirements and provide adequate visibility.
• Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such
as a reflective vest, reflective arm and leg bands, reflective
stripes on your helmet, flashing lights ... any reflective device
or light source that moves will help you get the attention of
approaching motorists, pedestrians and other traffic.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying
on the bicycle does not obstruct a reflector or light.
!
WARNING: High-speed downhill or competition riding can lead to serious
accidents. Wear appropriate safety gear and be sure your bike is properly
maintained. Even with state-of-the-art protective safety gear, you could be
seriously injured or killed when riding downhill at speed or in competition.
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories
There are many components and accessories available to
enhance the comfort, performance and appearance of your
bicycle. However, if you change components or add accessories,
you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may not
have tested that component or accessory for compatibility,
reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before installing any
component or accessory, including a different size tire, make sure
that it is compatible with your bicycle by checking with your
dealer. Be sure to read, understand and follow the instructions that
accompany the products you purchase for your bicycle.
While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or
fast-moving traffic.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
F. Downhill or Competition Biking
!
If you ride downhill at speed or in competition, you voluntarily
assume an increased risk of injury or death. When riding downhill,
you can reach speeds seen on motorcycles, and therefore face
similar hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment
carefully inspected by a qualified mechanic and be sure it is in
perfect condition. Consult with expert riders and race officials on
conditions and equipment advisable at the site where you plan to
ride. For mountain biking, wear appropriate safety gear, including
an approved full face helmet, full finger gloves, and body armor.
WARNING: Failure to confirm compatibility, properly install, operate and
maintain any component or accessory can result in serious injury or death.
!
CAUTION: Changing the components on your bike may void the warranty.
Refer to your warranty, and check with your dealer before changing the components on your bike.
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riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches
the frame, the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike
around the block. A bike which you ride only on paved surfaces
and never take off-road should give you a minimum standover
height clearance of five centimeters. A bike that you’ll ride on
unpaved surfaces should give you a minimum of seven and a half
centimeters of standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll
use for real mountain biking on difficult, rough terrain should give
you ten centimeters or more of clearance.
3. Fit
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling safety, performance and comfort. Making the adjustments to your bicycle
which result in correct fit for your body and riding conditions requires experience, skill and special tools. Always have your
dealer make the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if you have
the experience, skill and tools, have your dealer check your
work before riding.
B. Saddle position
Make sure the bike fits. A bike that’s too big or too small is harder
to control and can be uncomfortable.
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting
the most performance and comfort from your bicycle. If the
saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer, who
has the tools and skill to change it. The saddle can be adjusted in
three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct saddle
height (fig. 3):
Fig. 3
• sit on the saddle;
• place one heel on a pedal;
• rotate the crank until the pedal with
your heel on it is in the down position and
the crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight
and just touching the center of the
pedal, your saddle height needs to be
adjusted. If your hips must rock for the
heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is
too high. If your leg is bent at the knee
!
WARNING: If your bicycle does not fit properly, you may lose control and
fall. If your new bike doesn’t fit, ask your dealer to exchange it before you
ride it.
A. Standover height
Standover height is the basic
element of bike fit (see fig. 2). It is
the distance from the ground to the
top of the bicycle’s frame at that
point where your crotch would be if
you were straddling the bike and
standing half way between the
saddle and the handlebars. To
check for correct standover height,
straddle the bike while wearing the
kind of shoes in which you’ll be
Fig. 2
15
with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Once the saddle is at the correct height,
make sure that the seatpost does not project from
the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark
Fig. 4
(fig. 4). If your bike has an
interrupted seat tube, as is the
case on some bikes with rear
suspension, you must also make sure that the
seat post is far enough into the frame so that
you can touch it through the bottom of the
interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger
without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle (see fig. 5).
Fig. 5
Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial
effect on performance and comfort. Only one directional change
at a time, and only a small change at a time, should be made to
your saddle position.
!
WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle adjusting
mechanism is properly tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or seat
post binder can cause damage to the seat post, or can cause you to lose control and fall. A correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism will allow no
saddle movement in any direction. Periodically check to make sure that the
saddle adjusting mechanism is properly tightened.
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and
fore-and-aft position, your saddle is still uncomfortable, you may
need a different saddle design. Saddles, like people, come in
many different shapes, sizes and resilience. Your dealer can help
you select a saddle which, when correctly adjusted for your body
and riding style, will be comfortable.
!
WARNING: If your seat post projects from the frame beyond the Minimum
Insertion or Maximum Extension mark (see fig. 4) or you cannot touch the
bottom of the seat post through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with
the tip of your finger without inserting your finger beyond its first knuckle
(see fig. 5), the seat post may break, which could cause you to lose control
and fall.
!
WARNING: Some people have claimed that extended riding with a saddle
which is incorrectly adjusted or which does not support your pelvic area correctly can cause short-term or long-term injury to nerves and blood vessels,
or even impotence. If your saddle causes you pain, numbness or other discomfort, see your dealer.
2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted
forward or back to help you get the optimal position on the bike.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position
and to show you how to make further adjustments.
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal
saddle; but some riders like the saddle nose angled up or down
just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or teach you how
to do it.
C. Handlebar height and angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem, which
clamps on to the outside of the steerer tube, or with a “quill” stem,
16
!
WARNING: An insufficiently tightened stem binder bolt, handlebar binder
bolt or bar end extension clamping bolt may compromise steering action, which
could cause you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle
between your legs and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly. If you
can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar, the
bolts are insufficiently tightened.
which clamps inside the steerer tube by way of an expanding
binder bolt. If you aren’t
absolutely sure
which type of stem your
bike has, ask your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem, your dealer may be able
to change handlebar height by moving height adjustment spacers
from below the stem to above the stem, or vice versa. Otherwise,
you’ll have to get a stem of different length or rise. Consult your
dealer. Do not attempt to do this yourself, as it requires special
knowledge .
If your bike has a “quill” stem, you can ask your dealer to
adjust the handlebar height a bit by adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which
designates the stem’s “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
extension”. This mark must not be visible above the headset.
D. Control position adjustments
The angle of the controls and their position on the handlebars
can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for
you.
E. Brake reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for
reach. If you have small hands or find it difficult to squeeze the
brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit shorter
reach brake levers.
!
WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height can affect the tension of the front brake cable, locking the front brake or creating
excess cable slack which can make the front brake inoperable. If the front
brake pads move in towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim
when the stem or stem height is changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted before you ride the bicycle.
!
WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is to
have correctly adjusted brakes, so that full braking power can be applied within
available brake lever travel. Brake lever travel insufficient to apply full braking power can result in loss of control, which may result in serious injury or
death.
!
WARNING: The stem’s Minimum Instertion Mark must not be visible above
the top of the headset. If the stem is extended beyond the Minimum Instertion
Mark the stem may break or damage the fork’s steerer tube, which could
cause you to lose control and fall.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or
bar end extensions.
17
!
4. Tech
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel
securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut
with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp
the wheel safely in the dropouts.
It is important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to
understand how things work on your bicycle. If you have even the
slightest doubt as to whether you understand something in this
section of the Manual, talk to your dealer.
a. Adjusting the quick release mechanism
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick
release cam pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension
adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The
amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting
nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the
cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it
counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension
adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping
force and unsafe clamping force.
A. Wheels
1. Wheel Quick Release
!
WARNING: Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can
allow the wheel to wobble or disengage from the bicycle, causing serious
injury or death to the rider. Therefore, it is essential that you:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and
remove your wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your
wheel in place with a quick release.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is
securely clamped.
b. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel
retention device to keep the wheel from disengaging if the quick
release is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary retention devices are
not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
(1) The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer
adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
(2) The integral type is molded, cast or machined into
the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary
retention device on your bike.
The wheel quick release uses a cam action to clamp the
bike’s wheel in place (see fig. 10). Because of its adjustable nature,
it is critical that you understand how it works, how to use it properly
and how much force you need to apply to secure the wheel.
Fig. 6
18
!
WARNING: Removing or disabling the secondary retention device is extremely dangerous and may lead to serious injury or death. It also may void
the warranty.
b. Installing a Quick Release Front Wheel
!
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with disk brakes (fig. 10), be careful not
to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the
caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly
inserted in the caliper. See also Section 4.C.
2. Removing and Installing Quick Release Wheels
a. Removing a Quick Release Front Wheel
(1) Move the quick-release lever so that it curves
away from the wheel (fig. 7b). This is the OPEN position.
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quickrelease mechanism to open the clearance between the wheel rim
and the brake pads (See Section 4.C fig. 11 through 14).
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel
between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of
the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades — the fork
dropouts. The quick-release lever should be on the left side of
the bicycle (fig.7a & b). If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(2) Move the wheel’s quick-release lever from the locked or
CLOSED position to the OPEN position. (figs. 7a & b)
(3) If your front fork does not have a
secondary retention device go to step five (5).
Fig. 7b
(3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with
your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut with your left
hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout (fig. 6).
(4) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary
retention device, disengage it and go to step (5).
If your front fork has an integral secondary retention
device, loosen the tension adjusting nut enough to allow
removing the wheel; then go to the next step.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the
fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in
the fork, move the quick-release lever upwards and swing it into
the CLOSED position (fig. 6 & 7a). The lever should now be
parallel to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel. To apply
enough clamping force, you should have to wrap your fingers
around the fork blade for leverage, and the lever should leave a
clear imprint in the palm of your hand.
Fig. 7a
(5) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the
ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm
of your hand to knock the wheel out of the front fork.
19
!
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel takes considerable force. If you
can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the
fork blade for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the
palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension
adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
(3) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(4) Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN
position (fig. 7b).
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the
derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until
it comes out of the rear dropouts.
(5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position
parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the OPEN position.
Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter
turn and try tightening the lever again.
d. Installing a Quick Release Rear Wheel
!
(6) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to restore
correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel to make sure
that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are
operating correctly.
CAUTION: If your bike is equipped with disk brakes (fig.10), be careful not
to damage the disk, caliper or brake pads when re-inserting the disk into the
caliper. Never activate a disk brake’s control lever unless the disk is correctly
inserted in the caliper.
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position.
!
WARNING: Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct
quick release adjustment. Failure to properly adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause you to
loose control and fall, resulting in serious injury or death.
(2) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(3) Move the quick-release lever to the OPEN position (see fig.
6). The lever should be on the side of the wheel opposite the
derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
c. Removing a Quick Release Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost
rear sprocket).
(4) Put the chain on top of the smallest freewheel sprocket.
Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the
way in to the dropouts.
(2) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quickrelease mechanism to open the clearance between the wheel rim
and the brake pads (see Section 4.C, figs.
11 through 14).
(5) Tighten the quick-release adjusting nut until it is finger tight
against the frame dropout; then swing the lever toward the front
20
of the bike until it is parallel to the frame’s chainstay or seatstay
and is curved toward the wheel (fig. 7b). To apply enough
clamping force, you should have to wrap your fingers around a
frame tube for leverage, and the lever should leave a clear imprint
in the palm of your hand.
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quickrelease mechanism to open the clearance between the wheel rim
and the brake pads (see Section 4.C, figs.
11 through 14).
(2) Using a correct size wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
!
WARNING: Securely clamping the wheel takes considerable force. If you
can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the
seatstay or chainstay for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint
in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the
tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention
device, disengage it and go to he next step. If your front fork has
an integral secondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts
enough to allow wheel removal; then go to the next step.
(4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap
the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand to knock the
wheel out of the fork ends.
(6) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position
parallel to the chainstay or seatstay tube, return the lever to the
OPEN position. Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise onequarter turn and try tightening again.
b. Installing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(7) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel
between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly at the top of
the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut
washers should be on the outside, between the fork blade and the
axle nut. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention
device, engage it.
(8) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to restore
correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel to make sure
that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are
operating correctly.
(2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the
fork dropouts, and at the same time centering the wheel rim in
the fork, use the correct size wrench to tighten the front axle nuts
to 180-240 inch pounds.
3. Removing and Installing Bolt-On Wheels
a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
Fig. 8
21
(3) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to restore
correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel to make sure
that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are
operating correctly.
d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and
pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the
wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the way in to the
dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on
the outside, between the frame and the axle
nut.
c. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
If your bike is equipped with an internal gear
!rearWARNING:
hub, do not attempt to remove the rear wheel. The
Fig. 9
removal and re-installation of internal gear hubs require
special knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can result
in hub failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.
(3) Using the correct size wrench, tighten
the rear axle nuts to 240-300 inch pounds.
(4) Push the rear derailleur back into
position.
(1) If your bike has rim brakes, disengage the brake’s quickrelease mechanism to open the clearance between the wheel rim
and the brake pads (see Section 4.C, figs. 11 through 14).
(5) Re-engage the brake quick-release mechanism to restore
correct brake pad-to-rim clearance; spin the wheel to make sure
that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake pads; then
squeeze the brake lever and make sure that the brakes are
operating correctly.
(2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear
sprocket) and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(3) Using the correct size wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
B. Seatpost Quick Release
(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the
.derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel forward and down until
Some bikes are equipped with a quick-release seat post
binder. The seatpost quick-release binder works exactly like the
wheel quick-release (Section 4.A.1) While a quick release looks like
a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the
quick release uses a cam action to firmly clamp the seat post (see
fig. 6).
it comes out of the rear dropouts.
22
!
!
WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seatpost can allow the
saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose control and fall. Therefore:
WARNING: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your
fingers around a frame tube for leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear
imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever;
turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how
to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for
clamping your seat post quick release.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is
securely clamped.
C. Brakes
!
WARNING:
1. Riding with improperly adjusted brakes or worn brake pads is
dangerous and can result in serious injury or death.
2. Applying brakes too hard or too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which
could cause you to lose control and fall. Sudden or excessive application of
the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, which may result in
serious injury or death.
Adjusting the seatpost quick release mechanism
The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar
around the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The
amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting
nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the
cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it
counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension
adjusting nut can make the difference between safe and unsafe
clamping force.
3. Some bicycle brakes, such as disc brakes (fig. 10) and linear-pull
brakes (fig.11), are extremely powerful. Take extra care in becoming familiar
with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them.
4. Disc brakes can get extremely hot with extended use. Be careful not to
touch a disc brake until it has had plenty of time to cool.
5. See the brake manufacturer’s instructions for installation, operation
and care of your disk brake. If you do not have the manufacturer’s
instructions, see your dealer or contact the brake manufacturer.
!
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seatpost
securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut
with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp
the seatpost safely.
How brakes work
It’s very important to your safety that you learn and
remember which brake lever controls which brake on your bike.
The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction
between the brake surfaces — usually the brake pads and the
23
wheel rim. To make sure that you have maximum friction available,
keep your wheel rims and brake pads clean and free of lubricants,
waxes or polishes.
Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake
levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the
levers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the bike. The
lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different brake
lever design.
Most brakes have some form of quick-release
mechanism to allow the brake pads to clear the tire when a wheel
is removed or reinstalled. When the brake quick release is in the
open position, the brakes are inoperative. Ask your dealer to make
sure that you understand the way the brake quick release works
on your bike (see fig. 11, 12, 13, & 14) and check each time to
make sure both brakes work correctly before you get on the bike.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the
bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the point
just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid.
Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your stopping force
and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and
stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel. The technique is
Fig. 10
called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake
lever to the position where you think you’ll generate appropriate
braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the
braking force. If you feel the wheel begin to lock up, release
pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup.
It’s important to develop a feel for the amount of brake lever
pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on
different surfaces. To better understand this, experiment a little by
walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to
each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow,
but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was
going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under
heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could send you
flying over the handlebars).
A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake
pressure before lockup; a wheel with less weight will lock up with
less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight is
transferred forward, you need to shift your body toward the rear of
the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the
same time, you need to both decrease rear braking and increase
Fig. 12
Fig. 11
24
Fig. 13
Fig. 14
front braking force. This is even more important on descents,
because descents shift weight forward.
Two keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are
controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. This weight transfer is
even more pronounced if your bike has a front suspension fork.
Front suspension “dips” under braking, increasing the weight
transfer (see also Section 4.F). Practice braking and weight
transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and
distractions.
Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet
weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less
cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake
force. Moisture or dirt on the brake pads reduces their ability to
grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go
more slowly to begin with.
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing
mechanism will have:
• a rear cassette or freewheel sprocket cluster
• a rear derailleur
• usually a front derailleur
• one or two shifters
• one, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• a drive chain
a. Shifting Gears
The different types of shifters and their operation are
illustrated in figures 15 through 20. Identify the shifters on your bike
before reading on.
The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A
downshift is a shift to a “slower” gear, one which is easier to pedal.
An upshift is a shift to a “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s
confusing is that what’s happening at the front derailleur is the
opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details,
read the instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the
Front Derailleur below). For example, you can select a gear which
will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of
two ways: shift the chain down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear
D. Shifting gears
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur
drivetrain (see 2. below), an internal gear hub drivetrain (see 3.
below) or, in some special cases, a combination of the two.
1. How a derailleur drivetrain works
Fig. 15
Fig. 18
Fig. 16
Fig. 17
25
Fig. 19
Fig. 20
at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So,
at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an
upshift. The way to keep things straight is to remember that shifting
the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating
and climbing and is called a downshift. Moving the chain out or
away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and is called an
upshift.
Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur
system design requires that the drive chain be moving forward and
be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are
pedaling forward.
derailleur to move the chain from one
sprocket to another, the rider must be
pedaling forward.
c. Shifting the Front Derailleur:
The front derailleur, which is controlled by
the left shifter, shifts the chain between the
larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the
chain onto a smaller chainring makes
pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a
larger chainring makes pedaling harder
(an upshift).
Never move the shifter while pedaling backward, nor pedal back!wardsCaution:
after having moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and cause
d. Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear and
smallest front gears (fig. 21) is for the steepest
hills. The smallest rear and largest front combination
(fig. 21) is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in
sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” which is right for your
level of ability — a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling
— and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel
for the different gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where
there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up
your confidence. If you have difficulties with shifting, the problem
could be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
serious damage to the bicycle and may cause you to lose control and fall.
b. Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function
of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear
sprocket to another. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster
produce higher gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires
greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance with
each revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce
lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but takes
you a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving
the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to a larger
sprocket results in a downshift. Moving the chain from a larger
sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In order for the
26
Fig. 21
!
WARNING: Never shift a derailleur onto the largest or the smallest sprocket
if the derailleur is not shifting smoothly. The derailleur may be out of adjustment and the chain could jam, causing you to lose control and fall.
experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the
different gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no
obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your
confidence. If you have difficulties with shifting, the problem could
be mechanical adjustment. See your dealer for help.
2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear
changing mechanism will consist of:
• a 3, 5, 7 or possibly 12 speed internal gear hub
• one, or sometimes two shifters
• one front sprocket called a chainring
• a drive chain
E.Pedals
1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel
when you turn the handlebars to steer while a pedal is in the
forwardmost position. This is common on
small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal
up and the outside pedal down when turning.
a. Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter
of moving the shifter to the indicated position for the desired gear.
After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your
choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the
hub to complete the shift.
!
WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. If you
have toe overlap, exercise extra care when turning.
2. Some higher performance bicycles come equipped with
pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous surfaces. These
surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing adhesion
between the rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this
type of high-performance pedal, you must take extra care to
avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on your
riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less aggressive pedal
design. Your dealer can show you a number of options and make
suitable recommendations.
b. Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The
numerically largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12, depending on the number
of speeds of your hub) is for the greatest speed. Shifting from an
easier, “slower” gear (like 1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is
called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier,
“slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears
in sequence. Instead, find the “starting gear” for the conditions —
a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and
3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly
positioned and engaged with the pedals. The toeclip positions the
27
!
WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically
made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep the foot engaged with the
pedal. Using shoes which do not engage the pedals correctly is dangerous.
Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until
engaging and disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique
requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing the
rider to lose control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic; and be sure to
follow the pedal manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not
have the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the manufacturer.
ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum
pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps the foot
engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While
toeclips and strap give some benefit with any kind of shoe, they
work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with
toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work.
!
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps
requires skill which can only be acquired with practice. Until it becomes a
reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the
rider’s attention, causing you to lose control and fall. Practice the use of
toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep
the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until your technique and confidence
in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in traffic with your
toe straps tight.
F. Bicycle Suspension
Many bicycles are equipped with suspension systems. There
are many different types of suspension systems — too many to
deal with individually in this Manual. If your bicycle has a suspension system of any kind, be sure to read and follow the suspension
manufacturer’s setup and service instructions. If you do not have
the manufacturer’s instructions, see your dealer or contact the
manufacturer.
4. Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are
another means to keep feet securely in the correct position for
maximum pedaling efficiency. They work like ski bindings ... a
plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a spring-loaded fixture on
the pedal. Clipless pedals require shoes and cleats which are
compatible with the make and model pedal being used. Many
clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the
amount of force needed to engage or disengage the foot. Follow
the pedal manufacturer’s instructions, or ask your dealer to show
you how to make this adjustment. Use the easiest setting until
engaging and disengaging becomes a reflex action, but always
make sure that there is sufficient tension to prevent unintended
release of your foot from the pedal.
!
WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which may cause you to
lose control and fall. If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you
may develop also increases your risk of injury. For example, when braking,
the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if you do
not have experience with this system. Learn to handle your suspension
system safely. See also Section 4.C.
28
!
WARNING: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and
braking characteristics of your bicycle. Never change suspension adjustment
unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system manufacturer’s
instructions and recommendations, and always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristics of the bicycle after a suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride in a hazard-free area.
select the most appropriate design. The size, pressure rating, and
on some high-performance tires the specific recommended use,
are marked on the sidewall of the tire (see fig. 22). The part of this
information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure.
!
WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked
on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the recommended maximum pressure may
blow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and injury to
the rider and bystanders.
Suspension can increase control and comfort by allowing the
wheels to better follow the terrain. This enhanced capability may
allow you to ride faster; but you must not confuse the enhanced
capabilities of the bicycle with your own capabilities as a rider.
Increasing your skill will take time and practice. Proceed carefully
until you have learned to handle the full capabilities of your bike.
The best and safest way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct
pressure is with a bicycle pump which has a built-in pressure
gauge.
!
!
CAUTION: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted
with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle with any suspension, check with the
bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that what you want
to do is compatible with the bicycle’s design.
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a
pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or
weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating
the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the
lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride.
High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement. Very low
pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range,
give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as
hard-packed clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as deep,
dry sand.
G. Tires and Tubes
1. Tires
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and
specifications, ranging from general-purpose
designs to tires designed to perform best under
very specific weather or terrain conditions. If,
once you’ve gained experience with your new
bike, you feel that a different tire might better
suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you
WARNING: There is a safety risk in using gas station air hoses or other
air compressors. They are not made for bicycle tires. They move a large
volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tire very
rapidly, which could cause the tube to explode.
Fig. 22
29
Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding
conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire
to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim and
the riding surface.
The Schraeder valve (fig. 23) is like the
valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder
valve tube, remove the valve cap and clamp
the pump fitting onto the end of the valve
stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve,
depress the pin in the end of the valve stem
with the end of a key or other appropriate
object.
!
CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges can be inaccurate and should
not be relied upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a
high quality dial gauge.
Fig. 23
The Presta valve (fig. 24) has a narrower diameter and is only
found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta
headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push
down on the valve stem to free it up. Then push
the pump head on to the valve head and
Fig. 24
inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a
Schraeder pump fitting, you’ll need a Presta
adapter (available at your bike shop) which
screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed
up the valve. The adapter fits into the
Schraeder pump fitting. Close the valve after
invlation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open
up the valve stem lock nut and depress the
valve stem.
Ask your dealer to recommend the best tire pressure for the
kind of riding you will most often do, and have the dealer inflate
your tires to that pressure. Then, check inflation as described in
Section 1.C so you’ll know how correctly inflated tires should
look and feel. Some tires may need to be brought up to
pressure every week or two.
Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional
treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in one
direction than in the other. The sidewall marking of a
unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct
rotation direction. If your bike has unidirectional tires, be sure
that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
2. Tire Valves
There are primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves: The
Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use
must have the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on your
bicycle.
!
WARNING: Patching a tube is an emergency repair. Ifyou do not apply the
patch correctly or apply several patches, the tube can fail, resulting in possible tube failure, which could cause you to loose control and fall. Replace a
patched tube as soon as possible.
30
5. Service
you ask your dealer to check the quality of your work the first time
you work on something and before you ride the bike, just to make
sure that you did everything correctly. Since that will require the
time of a mechanic, there may be a modest charge for this
!
WARNING: Technological advances have made bicycles and bicycle components more complex, and the pace of innovation is increasing. It is impossible for this manual to provide all the information required to properly repair
and/or maintain your bicycle. In order to help minimize the chances of an accident and possible injury, it is critical that you have any repair or maintenance
which is not specifically described in this manual performed by your dealer.
Equally important is that your individual maintenance requirements will be
determined by everything from your riding style to geographic location.
Consult your dealer for help in determining your maintenance requirements.
service.
A. Service Intervals
Some service and maintenance can and should be
performed by the owner, and require no special tools or
knowledge beyond what is presented in this manual.
The following are examples of the type of service you should
perform yourself. All other service, maintenance and repair should
be performed in a properly equipped facility by a qualified
bicycle mechanic using the correct tools and procedures
specified by the manufacturer.
!
WARNING: Many bicycle service and repair tasks require special knowledge and tools. Do not begin any adjustments or service on your bicycle if you
have the slightest doubt about your ability to propertly complete them. Improper adjustment or service may result in damage to the bicycle or in an
accident which can cause serious injury or death.
1. Break-in Period: Your bike will last longer and work better if
you break it in before riding it hard. Control cables and wheel
spokes may stretch or “seat” when a new bike is first used and may
require readjustment by your dealer. Your Mechanical Safety
Check (Section 1.C) will help you identify some things that need
readjustment. But even if everything seems fine to you, it’s best to
take your bike back to the dealer for a checkup. Dealers typically
suggest you bring the bike in for a 30 day checkup. Another way
to judge when it’s time for the first checkup is to bring the bike in
after three to five hours of hard off-road use, or about 10 to 15
hours of on-road or more casual off-road use. But if you think
something is wrong with the bike, take it to your dealer before
riding it again.
If you want to learn to do major service and repair
work on your bike, you have three options:
1. Ask your dealer for copies of the manufacturer’s
installation and service instructions for the components on your
bike, or contact the component manufacturer.
2. Ask your dealer to recommend a book on bicycle repair.
3. Ask your dealer about the availability of bicycle repair
courses in your area.
Regardless of which option you select, we recommend that
31
2. Before every ride: Mechanical Safety Check (see Section
rust? Kinks? Fraying? If so, have your dealer replace them.
1.C)
• Squeeze each adjoining pair of spokes on either side of
each wheel between your thumb and index finger. Do they all feel
about the same? If any feel loose, have your dealer check the
wheel for tension and trueness.
3. After every long or hard ride: if the bike has been exposed
to water or grit; or at least every 100 miles: Clean the bike and
lightly oil the chain. Wipe off excess oil. Lubrication is a function of
climate. Talk to your dealer about the best lubricants and the
recommended lubrication frequency for your area.
• Check the frame, particularly in the area around all tube
joints; the handlebars; the stem; and the seatpost for any deep
scratches, cracks or discoloration. These are signs of stress-caused
fatigue and indicate that a part is at the end of its useful life and
needs to be replaced.
4. After every long or hard ride or after every 10 to 20 hours
of riding:
• Squeeze the front brake and rock the bike forward and
back. Everything feel solid? If you feel a clunk with each forward or
backward movement of the bike, you probably have a loose
headset. Have your dealer check it.
• Check to make sure that all parts and accessories are still
secure, and tighten any which are not.
• Lift the front wheel off the ground and swing it from side to
side. Feel smooth? If you feel any binding or roughness in the
steering, you may have a tight headset. Have your dealer check
it.
!
WARNING: Like any mechanical device, a bicycle and its components are
subject to wear and stress. Different materials and mechanisms wear or fatigue from stress at different rates and have different life cycles. If a
component’s life cycle is exceeded, the component can suddenly and catastrophically fail, causing serious injury or death to the rider. Scratches, cracks,
fraying, and discoloration are signs of stress-caused fatigue and indicate that
a part is at the end of its useful life and needs to be replaced. While the materials and workmanship of your bicycle or of individual components may be
covered by a warranty for a specified period of time by the manufacturer, this
is no guarantee that the product will last the term of the warranty. Product life
is often related to the kind of riding you do and to the treatment to which you
submit the bicycle. The bicycle’s warranty is not meant to suggest that the
bicycle cannot be broken or will last forever. It only means that the bicycle is
covered subject to terms of warranty.
• Grab one pedal and rock it toward and away from the
centerline of the bike; then do the same with the other pedal.
Anything feel loose? If so, have your dealer check it.
• Take a look at the brake pads. Starting to look worn or not
hitting the wheel rim squarely? Time to have the dealer adjust or
replace them.
• Carefully check the control cables and cable housings. Any
32
5. As required:
If either brake lever fails the Mechanical Safety Check
(Section 1.C), don’t ride the bike
. Have your dealer check the
brakes.
If the chain won’t shift smoothly and quietly from gear to
gear, the derailleur is out of adjustment. See your dealer.
6. Every 25 (hard off-road) to 50 (on-road) hours of riding:
Take your bike to your dealer for a complete checkup.
B. If your bicycle sustains an impact
First, check yourself for injuries, and take care of them as best
you can. Seek medical help if necessary.
Next, check your bike for damage, and fix what you can so
you can get home. Then, take your bicycle to your dealer for a
thorough check.
!
WARNING: A crash or other impact can put extraordinary stress on bicycle components, causing them to fatigue prematurely. Components suffering from stress fatigue can fail suddenly and catastrophically, causing loss of
control, serious injury or death.
33
Motobecane USA is Distributed by Motobecane USA, Inc.
Motobecane USA, Inc. Bicycle Limited Warranty
It is the owner’s responsibility to thoroughly read and understand the owner’s manual and regularly examine the product to determine the need for professional, authorized service
or replacement. Please consult an authorized Motobecane USA America, Inc. bicycle dealership with any questions on use and maintenance.
Regardless of the length of the warranty, Motobecane USA America, Inc. does not infer the bicycle will last forever or can not be broken. A worn out bicycle does not indicate it is warrantable.
Motobecane USA America, Inc. warrants this new Motobecane USA America, Inc. bicycle frame against defects in material and workmanship:
At Motobecane U.S.A., we are proud to produce the highest quality bicycles available and back them up with the best warranty in the bicycle industry. Every
Motobecane sold in the U.S.A. is warranted free of manufacturing defects forever. If any part on a Motobecane bicycle ever fails due to a defect, that part will be
repaired or replaced by an authorized dealer.
This warranty is limited to the original purchaser of new Motobecane bicycles sold in the United States after May 1st, 1996. Bending the frame, fork, or other components
is not covered by this warranty; as bending is a sign of abuse inconsistent with the intended use of the bicycle. Transportation charges and dealer labor charges are
not covered in this warranty. See additional terms below.
This warranty does not apply to damage or failure due to:
1. Accidents, alteration, abuse, neglect.
2. Fatigue, normal wear and tear.
3. Improper assembly, maintenance, or installation of parts or accessories not originally intended to be compatible with the bicycle as sold, including but not limited to power assist
accessories, forks, brakes, or tires different from original specification.
This warranty also excludes:
1. Commercial use, racing or competition, stunting and jumping, lack of technical skill, competence, or experience of the user.
2. Bicycle frames, which have been repaired (i.e. welded or bonded), repainted, or had the original decals removed.
3. Frames, forks, wheels, axles, handlebars, and stems, which are bent from just riding along, can be a sign of misuse or abuse and are not covered under this warranty.
4. This limited warranty does not, under any circumstances, include personal transportation costs, or product freight costs to or from an authorized Motobecane USA, Inc. bicycle
dealer.
5. Warranty replacement frames must be fully assembled by an authorized dealer to maintain the warranty coverage. The warranty for the replacement frame shall be the warranty
offered for the equivalent bicycle of that model year.
This warranty is expressly in lieu of all other warranties, and any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose created hereby, are limited to the same
duration as the express warranty herein. Motobecane USA, Inc. shall not be liable for any incidental or consequential damages. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitations
of implied warranties, incidental or consequential, so the above limitations and exclusions may not apply to you.
Motobecane USA, Inc.,
Retailers and wholesale outlets for Motobecane USA, Inc. products are not authorized to modify this warranty in any way.
2305 Sterling Center Lane
This warranty gives the original owner specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which may vary from state to state.
Houston TX 77023 USA
Phone 904-249-3831