Powerbook G4 Titanium 550/667 Repair Guide

Powerbook G4 Titanium 550/667 Repair Guide
Copyright © 2003 Powerbookmedic.com. All rights reserved.
Any portion of this manual may not be copied, reproduced, or distributed without the
express written consent of Powerbookmedic.com. Violators will be prosecuted.
This manual is presented as a guide in order to help you repair problems on your
powerbook. Working on a powerbook can be dangerous if not done properly. We at
Powerbookmedic.com take no responsibility for any damage or harm done to yourself or
your powerbook as a result of reading this guide.
Suggestions for making this manual better? Email: sales@powerbookmedic.com
Tools Needed for Take Apart:
Torx T8 Screwdriver – Available from our online store
Torx T6 Screwdriver – Available from our online sore
Philips head screwdriver (small and medium size screwdrivers)
Pliers
Always remove the battery and power supply from the computer before beginning any
take apart or repair!
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Table of Contents
Identifying the Gigabit Powerbook G4………………………………… …...pg. 3
Identification of Parts…………………………………………..…………….pg. 4
Battery Removal………………………………………………...……………pg.5
Keyboard Removal…………………………………………….………….....pg. 6
Ram Removal……………………………………………..…..……………..pg 7
Modem Removal……………………………………………….……………pg. 8
Bottom Case Removal……………………………………………………….pg. 9
Hard Drive Removal………………………..…………………………….....pg. 13
DVD / Optical Drive Removal………………………..………...…………...pg. 15
Logic Board Removal…………………………………….…………………pg. 17
Display Removal…………………..……………………………….………..pg. 22
Display Take Apart / Hinge Replacement………………….………………..pg. 25
Heat Exchange / Rib Frame Removal……………………………………….pg 38
Page 2 of 41
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Identifying the Powerbook G4 550/667
The powerbook G4 Titanium is easily identified by its titanium frame and sleek
appearance. Even though all of the models look nearly identical, each of them is different
in a unique way, and the parts are NOT interchangeable between models. The easiest way
to identify which model you have and need parts for is by processor speed. The pairs
listed below are compatible only with each other. For example, the 400mhz can use
500mhz parts, but cannot use the parts from a 550mhz.
400mhz & 500mhz
550mhz & 667mhz (non-DVI)
667mhz & 867mhz DVI
To determine if your machine is a DVI model, then you will need to look at the rear ports
on your unit. Look at the pictures below. The first picture is a NON-DVI model. (Notice
the VGA port next to the fan slots.
The picture below is from a DVI model. Notice the rectangular DVI port.
Page 3 of 41
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Identification of Parts
Display
Bottom Pan Casing
Optical Drive
Inverter Board
Clutch Covers
Logic Board
Trackpad / Heat Exchange /Rib Frame
Modem
Page 4 of 41
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Before proceeding with any repair, make sure your powerbook is shut down and
unplugged. It is a good idea to let your powerbook sit unplugged for at least 15
minutes before proceeding with any repair.
It is strongly recommended that you remove the battery before proceeding with any
repairs.
Battery Removal
Turn the computer over with
the bottom up as shown.
Push the battery latch to the
right as shown. The battery
will then “pop” up and you
will be able to remove it
from the laptop as shown in
the second picture.
Page 5 of 41
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Keyboard Removal
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
After you have removed the
battery, turn the computer
over and open up the display.
Then, depress the two
keyboard tabs as shown in
the picture. Holding the tabs
in, flip the keyboard up and
towards you. (If the
keyboard does not easily
come out, check to make
sure you have not locked the
keyboard.)
To remove the keyboard
connector, grasp the cable as
shown and gently pull up.
You can gently wiggle the
cable from side to side if it
doesn’t come off easily. Do
not use much force. It should
come off relatively easily.
Page 6 of 41
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Memory (Ram) Removal
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Keyboard
To remove currently installed ram,
pry back the metal or plastic
fasteners holding in the ram as
shown. Do this on each side. It’s
easier if you do them at the same
time.
The ram chip will pop up. Just
slide out to remove it. To install a
new chip, just align the new chip
in the grooves, press in, and then
press down until the fasteners clip
on both sides.
Page 7 of 41
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Modem Removal
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Keyboard
To remove the modem you will
need either a pair of pliers or a
5mm hex nut screwdriver or
wrench. Undo the hex nut in the
location shown. Then pull the
modem up to disconnect it from
the motherboard. Lastly remove
the cable connected to the modem.
Page 8 of 41
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Bottom Case Removal
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Remove the 8 Torx screws from the
bottom case with your Torx T8
Screwdriver. (Available from
www.powerbookmedic.com)
Gently lift up on the case as shown.
Do not use much force at all or you
will break the trackpad casing.
Gently work your way around the
casing.
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Take special care near the DVD
drive area. This area is very delicate,
and you especially risk breaking the
trackpad at this point.
When the casing is loose, lift up and
place it on a clean surface.
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Airport Card Removal
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Bottom Case
To remove the airport card, locate
the metal clip that holds the cable
connector in place. Gently pry this
back with your finger and pull up on
the cable to release it from the
connector.
Lift up on the card as shown. Then
pull the card out of its connector.
(You may gently rock the card side
to side to ease it out of the
connector.)
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Using your fingers, pull the cable
connector from the card. (If it is hard
to pull the connector out, you can
use a pair of needle nose pliers to
gently pull the connector out while
holding the card. If you do this,
don’t use much force at all or you
risk breaking the card and
connector.)
Page 12 of 41
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Hard Drive Removal
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Bottom Case
Disconnect the orange hard drive
cable from the motherboard as
shown.
Remove the two Torx T8 screws
shown in red. These are located in
the battery bay. Note – There are
two rubber washers, if they fall out
remember to put them back in when
installing a new drive.
Lift the drive up and out.
Page 13 of 41
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Remove the orange cable from the
hard drive by pulling the cable
straight up as shown. Do not use
excessive force, or you will bend the
connector pins.
Replacement note – If it is difficult
to put the hard drive back in, you can
remove the torx screw from the rib
frame and move that portion of the
rib frame slightly to allow for more
wiggle room.
Page 14 of 41
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CD / DVD Drive Removal
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Keyboard
Bottom Case
Note – CDRW removal instructions
are similar but differ slightly.
Using a flathead screwdriver pry up
the EMI clip at the location shown
in the picture. It will be behind the
DVD drive. Put the clip somewhere
safe, as you’ll need to replace it
when you reinstall another drive.
Turn the computer over. Locate the
DVD drive and two orange cables
connected to the motherboard.
You must first remove the orange
strip of tape covering the cables.
Then, undo the two orange cables
from the motherboard.
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Grabbing the drive from the sides
only, lift the drive up and out.
Note – There is a metal clip on the
front of the drive that attaches in two
small grooves. This should easily
come loose. You will need to put
this piece in the drive you are
replacing if it does not already have
it.
Page 16 of 41
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Logic Board Removal / Replacement
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Keyboard
Bottom Case
Airport Card (If installed)
Remove the four Torx T8 screws as
shown.
Undo the orange PCMCIA
connector from the motherboard by
gently prying it up.
Remove the battery connector cable
from the motherboard by gently
prying it up. This connector can be
hard to remove sometimes. Use a
flathead screwdriver while pulling
up to make the job a little easier.
Page 17 of 41
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Remove the backup battery cable
as shown by gently pulling up.
Turn the laptop over.
Undo the three cables on the left
hand side of the logic board. These
cables are very delicate, so use
extreme caution
Page 18 of 41
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If a strip of orange tape is covering the
trackpad connector, remove it as
shown and disconnect the trackpad
cable from the motherboard. If you
have not already done so, remove the
hard drive cable from the motherboard
as well. (It is located next to the
trackpad cable.)
Remove the three Torx T8 screws as
shown.
Page 19 of 41
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Locate the DVD drive and two orange
cables connected to the motherboard.
You must first remove the orange strip
of tape covering the cables.
Then, undo the two orange cables
from the motherboard.
Page 20 of 41
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Remove the orange piece of tape
covering the black and grey cable on
the right hand side of the logic board.
Carefully undo the cable.
Grasp the logic board as shown and
gently pull up. Then gently pull the
board out and place it on an anti-static
surface.
Page 21 of 41
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Display Removal
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Keyboard
Bottom Case
Airport Card (If installed)
Logic Board
Remove the 4 Torx T8 screws on the
clutch covers as shown.
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Gently pry the clutch covers off of
the frame. If you use a flathead
screwdriver be sure not to chip your
paint. They should come off easily.
Now, remove the 4 Torx T8 head
screws at the locations shown. Do
not remove the black screws on the
black hinge. *Be very careful
around the cables.
On the right hand side, gently
remove the pink and black cable
from the inverter board as shown.
Then pull it through the hole in the
casing where the hinge attaches to.
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On both sides of the casing is the
piece shown in red. This piece
pivots up and “folds” over.
On the side with the display
cable and white and blue wire,
lift this piece up, and then,
carefully guide the display cable
and blue and white cable through
the hole. You will have to turn
the display data cable to get it
properly go through the hole. Be
very careful with the cables!
Page 24 of 41
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Display Take Apart / Hinge Replacement
READ BEFORE PROCEEDING
Working on the display of the G4 Titanium is a very risky procedure. If you are not
careful, there is a high risk of damaging your display. Also, the casing will not look
100% cosmetically perfect many times after performing this repair if you have never
done this type of work before.
Physical Harm – The casing of the Display is extremely sharp, and you risk cutting
yourself on the casing if you are not careful. We strongly recommend using protective
gloves when performing this procedure.
By performing any work on your Powerbook and by continuing with this repair, you
agree that Powerbookmedic.com is in no way shape or form responsible for any damage
done to your laptop or for physical injury done to yourself.
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Keyboard
Bottom Case
Airport Card (If installed)
Logic Board
Display
Hinge Mount Removal
Hold your display as shown, and locate
the 2 hinge mounts shown in red in the
picture. They will be held on by two
black Philips head screws
Page 25 of 41
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Remove the two Philips head
screws on each hinge mount as
shown. Make sure to apply enough
downward pressure so as not to strip
the screws.
Guide the hinge mount out and
towards you as shown.
Page 26 of 41
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Opening the Display
On both sides of the display you
will notice 2 Torx T6 Screws as
shown in red. If you want to
remove the entire back panel (not
recommended) or get to the
display cable, you’ll need to
remove all 4. If you are
performing just a hinge
replacement, you only need to
remove one from each side. (The
ones on the bottom of the display
where the hinges are located)
If your hinges are broken, the next
step will be much easier. If your
hinges aren’t broken, then there is
a high likelihood of breaking them
when you try to open the display
unless you take extra care.
Grab the display as shown, and
pull with a fair amount of force
up. You are needing to break the
epoxy bond holding the display
together. Try to only grasp the
display as close to the edge as
possible. You do not want to put
pressure anywhere near the actual
LCD or you may break it.
Page 27 of 41
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After the initial bond is broken, you need
to work your way around the display to
break the bond. Do this slowly. If you try
to do too much at one time you’ll dent
your display casing. Again, only grasp
from the sides. If you are performing the
hinge repair only break the bond up to
about 3-4” along the side…you want to
break the bond as little as possible as it
will be a cleaner repair when you are
done.
Display Cable Replacement
If you are replacing the hinges, skip these
next steps for the display cable removal.
Break the bond all the way around three
edges of the display. Do not break the
bond on the top of the display (side with
screen latch mechanism) unless
absolutely necessary. It is very difficult to
put the casing back together if you break
the top bond.
Page 28 of 41
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After you work your way around, it
should look something like the
picture.
From the base of the display, open the
display as shown. You’ll notice there
is an orange piece of tape holding the
display cable to the display connector.
You will need to remove this piece of
tape as well as the piece holding the
cable on closer to the bottom of the
display. You will then be able to
remove the cable from its connector.
Page 29 of 41
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Note: this picture is turned around
from the picture above.
The display cable is most easily
replaced by replacing the enter cable
and frieze (the white cylindrical
plastic piece that is about 7” long)
The frieze is held on by a light epoxy,
so you just have to pull it towards you
and off as shown.
The cable will then be free. You can
then replace the cable. You will need
to epoxy the case (and frieze back
together) Use a small amount of
epoxy all the way along the casing
edge, and then clamp and let sit. See
instructions below for more
information on epoxy.
Page 30 of 41
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Hinge Replacement
Note: Some of these pictures are taken with the display still attached. It is possible to do
the repair without removing the display module, but in so doing you risk more damage to
your unit. We strongly recommend against this!
There are two main ways your hinges can break. We will cover the repair of both types of
breaks below.
Break Type # 1
The picture to the left shows the first type
of possible hinge break. If you’re lucky,
this is what you’ve got. The hinge is
broken off only at the base. This makes
extraction of the bad hinge much easier.
Follow the instructions above to break the
bond on about 3-4” of the casing on the
side of the casing of the hinge you need to
replace.
Use a flat tool to nudge the bad hinge up.
Do not use a lot of force or you will dent
your casing.
Page 31 of 41
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Follow the hinge along, and continue
gently nudging the hinge up until you
believe it is sufficiently loose to be
extracted. Again, do not use much force.
Use a pair of need nose pliers to pull the
hinge towards you and out. Note: Do not
use much force. You want the hinge to
come out easily. If you use too much
force the hinge will break and extraction
will be much more difficult.
If you have extracted your hinge at this
point, skip the next step on the second
type of break.
Page 32 of 41
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Break Type # 2
With the second type of break, there is a
stronger likelihood that the repair will
leave your casing slightly damaged. In
this type of break, the hinge breaks
higher up into your casing. This makes
extraction of the bad hinge much more
difficult.
If you haven’t done so already, follow
the instructions above to break the bond
on about 3-4” of the casing on the side
of the casing of the hinge you need to
replace.
Then, extract the first part of the broken
hinge.
Page 33 of 41
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If the rest of the hinge does not come
out easily, you will need to use a flat
head tool to follow the piece of the
hinge and break the bond with the hinge
and the casing. The less force you use,
the easier it will be to close your casing.
A lot of times, you will damage the thin
piece of metal that connects the top
casing to the bottom casing. When you
close your display back, it will normally
go back into position, but you may have
to prod it in certain places with a flat
head screwdriver to allow the casing to
close correctly.
Page 34 of 41
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Use a pair of needle nose pliers to
extract the hinge when it is loose
enough to be pulled out.
Putting it Back Together
To put the display back together, you
have to bond it with epoxy or contact
cement. We use Loctite Quick Set
Epoxy. It is very strong, and does the
job well. The downside is that if you
make a mistake in the repair, getting
back in may be more difficult. Contact
cement has a more glue consistency,
and while it won’t look as pretty or be
as strong, it will be easier to undo if you
make a mistake.
If you use the epoxy, premix the two
components. (You can use broken
hinges to mix.)
Page 35 of 41
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Apply the epoxy to the hinge. Apply
enough to thoroughly coat the hinge,
but not enough so that it drops off the
hinge or that there are big gobs. If you
use too much you could damage the
display. Also, BE CAREFUL with the
epoxy. Do not get the epoxy on your
display or you will damage it. Make
sure you only get it on the hinge and
the area it needs to go in.
Line the epoxied hinge up with the
hinge hole.
NOTE: If you are repairing the
hinge around the inverter wire, be
extremely careful that you guide
the wire into the frieze before
putting the hinge in. You want the
inverter cable to come out of the
frieze and no other place or you will
have a whole other set of problems
on your hand.
Page 36 of 41
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Guide the hinge into place. Make sure
the hinge goes all the way back and
then fits snugly into its corner.
Wipe off any excess epoxy!
Use a strong spring clamp (available at
Wal-mart) to clamp the display shut.
Only clamp the edge of the display! Do
not put the clamp on the actual LCD or
you will break it. Let the epoxy sit for
24 hours or as the instructions say. 24
hours is a good time to let the epoxy sit
however.
After it is dry, use a cleaner like GOO
BE GONE on the case if you
accidentally got some epoxy on it.
Reassemble your laptop.
Page 37 of 41
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Rib Frame / Heat Exchange Replacement
Before proceeding, you must first remove:
Battery
Keyboard
Bottom Case
Airport Card (If installed)
Logic Board
Display
Remove the two torx T8 screws as
shown.
Remove the 4 Torx T6 Screws near
the ports as shown.
This will loosen two pieces from the
rib frame (panel mounts). Remove
these panel mounts.
Page 38 of 41
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Along the rib frame there are 4
small torx T8 screws. The two
shown to the left are in the hard
drive cage. The one in the
picture below is under the airport
cable near where the airport card
goes. The last picture is hard to
tell, but it is near the inverter
board on the left hand side of the
casing.
Remove all 4 screws.
Page 39 of 41
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Gently lift the rib frame up and out.
Disconnect the audio cable on the
left hand side and right hand side
of the unit. If it is wrapped in
orange tape, remove the orange
tape.
Note (The picture shows the
modem and PCMCIA card cage.
These pieces should have been
removed prior to this step if you
followed the instructions.)
The heat exchanger will now lift up
and out.
Page 40 of 41
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At Powerbookmedic.com, we strive to make our manuals as accurate as possible. If you
would like to see something in this manual or would like to see something improved in
this manual, please email us at: sales@powerbookmedic.com
For all of your powerbook & ibook parts and repair needs, visit us at:
Copyright © 2003 Powerbookmedic.com. All rights reserved.
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