Ramsey Electronics TF-1 Instruction manual

Ramsey Electronics Model No.
Ahoy mates ! Go searching for buried treasure in your own
backyard, nearby park, or on the beach. This professional
quality unit can find metal at a depth of six inches!
Talk about your ideal project, this one will literally “pay for itself”
finding hidden treasures!
Sensitive...you bet ! Uses a Faraday shielded search coil just like
the pro’s !
Runs on 9-12 volts DC ; internal power regulation for “rock solid”
E-Z grip handle for comfortable use.
“Breaks down” small enough to fit in a suitcase or backpack ...
ideal for trips or hikes.
Utilizes the Signetics® NE 602 mixer / oscillator integrated circuit
for worry free operation.
Convenient earphone output for earphone / headset operation....
volume limited to protect your eardrums!
Complete and informative instructions guide you to a kit that works
the first time, every time - enhances resale value, too !
TF1 • 1
• The “Cube” MicroStation Transmitter
• FM-25 synthesized FM Transmitter
• FM-100 Stereo FM Transmitter
• AM-1 AM Transmitter
• FR-1 FM Broadcast Receiver
• AR-1 Aircraft Band Receiver
• SR-1 Shortwave Receiver
• AA-7 Active Antenna
• SC-1 Shortwave Converter
• SG-7 Personal Speed Radar
• SS-70 Speech Scrambler
• MX Series High Performance Mixer
• MD-3 Microwave Motion Detector
• PH-10 Peak hold Meter
• LC-1 Inductance-Capacitance Meter
• FX Series VHF and UHF Transceivers
• HR Series HF All Mode Receivers
• QRP Series HF CW Transmitters
• CW-70 CW Keyer
• PA Series VHF and UHF Power Amplifiers
• Packet Computer Interfaces
• QRP Power Amplifiers
Many other kits are available for hobby, school, Scouts and just plain FUN.
New kits are always under development. Write or call for our free Ramsey
Ramsey Electronics publication No. MTF-1 Revision 1.0
First printing: May,1998
COPYRIGHT 1998 by Ramsey Electronics, Inc. 793 Canning Parkway, Victor, New York
14564. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be copied or duplicated without the
written permission of Ramsey Electronics, Inc. Printed in the United States of America.
TF1 • 2
Ramsey Publication No. MTF-1
Price $5.00
Introduction to the TF-1 ................. 4
TF-1 Circuit Description ................ 4
TF-1 Assembly Steps ..................... 8
Schematic diagram ...................... 12
Component Layout ....................... 13
Initial Testing ................................ 21
Troubleshooting ........................... 22
Ramsey warranty ......................... 23
793 Canning Parkway
Victor, New York 14564
Phone (716) 924-4560
Fax (716) 924-4555
TF1 • 3
Searching for buried treasure has been a childhood dream for most of us. If
we could only “see” what's under a few inches of soil who knows what
fascinating delights await us! Could it be antique coins, missing jewelry, or
that coffee can that Gramps buried his fortune in?
But one look at the metal detectors on the market today and our dreams are
dashed! Even the “inexpensive” versions of a metal detector unit may cost
upwards of one hundred dollars; with the “professional” units selling for five
to ten times more.
Enter the Ramsey TF-1 treasure finder metal detector unit. Using today's
superior integrated circuit technology and a little physics know-how, we’ve
come up with a great circuit that performs admirably with a minimum of
tuning. With great sensitivity, selectivity, and ease of tuning we offer the
easiest and most reliable way to start seeking buried treasure of your own!
The following paragraphs describe some of the circuit theory for our metal
detector kit. Have a look at the block diagram (pg. 5) and schematic diagram
(pg. 12) and follow along.
We’ll start by describing the entire circuit operation with a simple block
diagram. First of all let's get this search coil term figured out. What magic
properties happen when you wind a few turns of wire? Well, remember when
you hooked up that dry cell with the nail and the coil of wire? It did pick up a
few paper clips, now didn’t it. This is due to the fact that a current through the
wire creates a magnetic field around the core. By the same token, if we were
to “cut” through this magnetic field with a wire, we would induce a voltage on
the wire. This is the principle that the power company generators use to
produce electricity, as well.
Figure 1 : Magnetism
from a coil of wire
When that same coil of
wire is used in an
alternating current circuit,
the nature of the search
coil begins to show itself.
As the electric current
races back and forth
through the wire (that's
why they call it
“alternating”), that magnetic poles are also oscillating
back and forth.
TF1 • 4
So this oscillation is generating a “pulsating” magnetic wave. This magnetic
wave expands and contracts around the coil. When this magnetic “wave”
comes in contact with a metal object it induces a small voltage at either end
of the metallic “target”. With this induced voltage across the target object, a
small current begins to flow causing a “counter” magnetic field to be
generated by the target metal. This opposing field interacts with the search
coil, generating a counter reactance when metal is encountered. Since our
search coil is designed to work with only the magnetic field generated by the
coil, we can actually shield out the electric field interference by enclosing the
coil in a “Faraday” shielding arrangement. Seems a little crazy to enclose
most of our coil in a tube of copper, but it actually improves the performance
of the search coil!
So how do we transpose this change in reactance to a changing tone? We
use our coil in an oscillating circuit whose frequency is determined by the
inductance of the coil. This high frequency oscillation is much too high for our
senses to discern, however, so we need a way to make this changing
inductance usable. This is accomplished by “mixing” the signal with another
(local) oscillating signal. The mixer, simply put, combines the two input
S e a rch C o il
M ixe r
T rea s ure F inde r M etal D etec tor B loc k D ia gram
In d u cta n ce
O scilla to r
T u n a b le
L o ca l
O scilla to r
frequencies and produces a sum (the inductance tuned oscillator + the
reference oscillator, and the difference (the inductance tuned oscillator - the
reference oscillator). This “mixed” (difference) frequency falls in the range of
our hearing, and the change in the pitch of the tone is proof that the coil is in
magnetic contact with some metal object.The frequency that we have
chosen for the oscillator provides for an optimal mixing frequency for the
mixer part of our circuit.
Now have a look at the schematic for the unit and follow along. The power
source for the treasure finder kit needs to be regulated to provide for drift
free operation of the two oscillator circuits that are contained in the kit. Diode
TF1 • 5
D3 is a zener type diode which accomplishes our regulation task. The power
indicator LED provides a visual display when the circuit is energized.
The local oscillator section of the circuit consists of U1 and its associated
components. This 8 pin chip contains a complete oscillator and mixer circuit.
This amazing little chip takes the place of several functional “blocks” critical
to our metal detector design. Since we will want to be able to slightly adjust
our local oscillator input, we have provided a “varactor” diode tuning circuit in
order to enable us to to change the frequency of our reference. We have
used this particular IC for a few years now for a variety of applications and
are still amazed at how it lends itself to more and more designs.
The oscillator comprised of transistor Q1 and it associated components
(including the search coil) generates our probing magnetic field. Notice that
the search coil is isolated from the rest of the circuit via a length of RG174
mini coaxial cable to provide for more stable measurements.
Components R6 and C10 make up our low pass filter that removes the
unwanted mixer output (the sum of the LO and search coil oscillators) The
difference between the two oscillators is amplified by U2, an audio amplifier
integrated circuit. This IC can provide plenty of power to drive the small
speaker, so we also limited the power for use with the optional earphone by
adding a resistor (R10) in series with the headphone output.
Sort and “check off” the components in the boxes provided. It’s also helpful
to sort the parts into separate containers (egg cartons do nicely) to avoid
confusion while assembling the kit.
2 ohm (red-black-gold) [R9]
120 ohm (brown-red-brown) [R2,10,13]
270 ohm (red-violet-brown) [R4,8]
1K ohm (brown-black-red) [R1,6]
10K ohm (brown-black-orange) [R3,5]
100K ohm (brown-black-yellow) [R12]
PC mount 10K ohm trimmer potentiometer (10K) [R7,11]
470 pF disc capacitor (labeled 470 or 471) [C19]
.0015 uF disc capacitors (labeled .0015 or 1500K) [C5,17]
TF1 • 6
.01uF disc capacitors (labeled .01 or 103 or 10nF) [C6,10,16,13]
.01 uF Mylar capacitor (in a rectangular case [looks like a Chicklet]
labeled 103) [C7,18]
.1uF disc capacitors (labeled .1 or 104) [C2,3,8,11,14,15]
10 uF electrolytic capacitor (labeled 10uF) [C1,4]
220 uF electrolytic capacitors (labeled 220uF) [C9,12]
100 uH inductor (coil on form with hex tuning slug) [L2]
6.2 volt zener diode (small gray glass case with banded end) [D3]
Varactor diode (MVAM 108) [D2]
Jumbo LED (light emitting diode) [D1]
NPN Transistor (three leads marked 2N3904) [Q1]
NE602 mixer oscillator IC (8 pin DIP IC marked NE602) [U1]
LM 386 audio amplifier IC (8 pin DIP IC marked 386) [U2]
1 PC mount push-button switch [S1]
1 PC mount mini jack [J1]
1 9 volt rectangular battery “snap” connector
1 9 volt battery clip
1 Miniature 8 ohm speaker [SP1]
2 17” pieces of 1/2 “ PVC tubing, one having slots cut in the end; one
having three holes pre drilled
1 8 ” piece 1/2 “ PVC tubing
1 45 degree 1/2 “ PVC elbow
1 1/2 ” PVC endcap
1 1/2 ‘ PVC coupling
1 Foam grip handle
4 ’ RG-174 mini coaxial cable
35 ’ 24 AWG enameled magnet wire
18 ” 3/8 “ Diameter copper tubing
1 “Clamshell” abs plastic case with pre-punched panel set
1 Panel sticker set
2 #4-40 X 1 “ cover mounting screws
4 #4 x 3/8” self tapping screws
2 #6 type B self tapping screws
There are numerous solder connections on the TF-1 printed circuit board.
Therefore, PLEASE take us seriously when we say that good soldering is
essential to the proper operation of your metal detector!
TF1 • 7
Use a 25-watt soldering pencil with a clean, sharp tip.
Use only rosin-core solder intended for electronics use.
Use bright lighting, a magnifying lamp or bench-style magnifier may
be helpful.
Do your work in stages, taking breaks to check your work. Carefully
brush away wire cuttings so they don't lodge between solder
We have a two-fold "strategy" for the order of the following kit assembly
steps. First, we install parts in physical relationship to each other, so there's
minimal chance of inserting wires into wrong holes. Second, whenever
possible, we install in an order that fits our "Learn-As-You Build" Kit building
philosophy. This entails describing the circuit that you are building, instead of
just blindly installing components. We hope that this will not only make
assembly of our kits easier, but help you to understand the circuit you’re
For each part, our word "Install" always means these steps:
1. Pick the correct part value to start with.
2. Insert it into the correct PC board location.
3. Orient it correctly, follow the PC board drawing and the written
directions for all parts - especially when there's a right way
and a wrong way to solder it in. (Diode bands, electrolytic
capacitor polarity, transistor shapes, dotted or notched ends
of IC's, and so forth.)
4. Solder all connections unless directed otherwise. Use enough
heat and solder flow for clean, shiny, completed connections.
5. Trim or “nip” the excess component lead wire after soldering.
NOTE: Save some of the longer wire scraps nipped from resistors and
capacitors. These will be used to form wire jumpers (JMP1, etc.) to be
soldered in just like parts during these construction steps.
Enough of that ... lets get started!
Although we know that you are anxious to complete the assembly of your
TF1 • 8
treasure finder kit, it is best to follow the step by step instructions. Try to
avoid the urge to “jump ahead” installing components.
Since you may appreciate some “warm-up” soldering practice as well as a
chance to put some “landmarks” on the PC board, we’ll first install some of
the larger mounting components. This will also help us to get aquainted with
the up - down, left - right orientation of the circuit board. Remember that the
majority of the components will be mounted on the “component “ side of the
circuit board and soldered on the “solder “ side of the circuit board, the side
with the printed circuit traces. Have a look at the component layout diagram
to help with your assembly.
1. Install S1, the push-button switch. Be sure to push the part as close to
the circuit board as it will go, as the alignment of this part is important in
getting the case holes to line up with the part. Solder all six leads.
2. Identify and install the 10K trimmer potentiometer R11 (labeled 10K).
Gently “rock” the component into place before soldering. Be sure to
solder the mounting “tabs” into place to provide for a secure fit.
3. In the same manner, identify and install R7, another 10K trimmer
potentiometer. Be sure that both the “knob” ends of the pots line up
evenly for easy installation into the case.
4. Moving to the rear of the board, install J1,a PC mount miniature type
connector. Again, be sure to push the component firmly into place.
Solder all three connection points.
Now it’s time to build the power supply portion of the circuit. We use a zener
diode regulation circuit for a voltage regulator to provide a stable source of
power for the circuit. Zener diodes exhibit a characteristic of a very specific
reverse biased “break down “ voltage, and this property is exploited by wiring
the diode reversed biased with reference to the 9V supply. A 120 ohm
resistor is placed in series with the diode to limit the amount of current that is
allowed to pass through the zener.
5. Identify D3, the 6.2 volt zener diode (gray glass case with a polarity
“band” denoting the cathode (negative) side of the diode. Install as
shown in the parts placement diagram (D3 is adjacent to the battery
input terminals).
6. Install R13, 120 ohm (brownred-brown). Remember to save
a few of the snipped off
component leads to act as
Leave these leads
as long as possible
PC Board
TF1 • 9
“jumper” connection wires later. Resistors are not polarized, they may
mount in either direction.
7. Install LED D1. Being a diode, this component is polarized and must
be oriented correctly. Examine the LED and notice how one lead is
longer than the other. The longer of the two leads is the anode, or (+)
connection. Most diodes also have a flat side molded in the component
body. This corresponds to the cathode or (-) side of the part.This flat
should face in the direction of the band marking of the diode. Leave the
diode leads as long as possible as this component will also mount to the
front panel as a power indicator.
8. Install R1, 1K ohm (brown-black-red).
Now that wasn’t so bad was it? You’ve just completed the power supply part
of your treasure finder. Pretty soon you will be searching for shell casings at
the scene of the crime!
Next we’ll work on the local oscillator section of the circuit. Be sure to mount
the components as close to the printed circuit board as possible to provide
for reliable oscillator operation.
9. Install R12, 100K ohm (brown-black-yellow). It is located adjacent to
the front panel pot R11.
10. Identify D2, the varactor diode (marked MVAM 108). Although it may
at first look like one of the transistors, note that it only has two legs. Due
to a change in the PC board, the diode must be installed with the flat
side placed opposite of the way the silkscreen shows.
11. Identify and install L2, the “wire-wound” slug tuned coil. Remember
to keep the parts as close to the circuit board as possible. Use care
when installing this component as not to strain the mounting legs when
inserting the part into the pc board.
12. Install C16, .01uF disc capacitor (marked .01 or 103 or 10nF).
Remember to save those scrap component leads; you'll be needing
them in a little while.
13. Install C19, 470pF disc capacitor (marked 470 or 471).
14. Install C2, .1 uF disc capacitor marked 104).
15. Install C8, another .1 uF disc capacitor marked 104).
16. Install C15, .1uF disc capacitor (marked 104).
17. Install C17, a .0015 uF disc capacitor(marked .0015 or 1500K).
TF1 • 10
18. Install C18, a .01 uF mylar capacitor (marked 103). We chose to use
a mylar cap in this position because mylar caps show greater stability
than standard ceramic disc caps; and since this is used in the oscillator
frequency determining section we wish to keep this value as “rock solid”
as possible.
19. Install U1, the NE602 mixer oscillator IC. Make sure to align the
notch or dot associated with pin one with the notch shown in the parts
layout diagram. Also check to be sure all 8 pins are through the board
before soldering the IC in place. This IC is responsible for the local
oscillator and mixing circuits and replaces a few dozen discreet
Great job! Take a moment now to check your previous solder joints for
“opens” where the solder did not completely flow around the connection or
solder “bridges” between closely spaced pads or IC pins. The best time to
identify this type of problem is now when you're focused on this section of
the board, saving you from problems later on.
Let's continue with the search coil oscillator section of the treasure finder.
20. Identify the small signal transistor Q1 (three leads marked 3904).
Notice that there is a “flat” side of the component. Install transistor Q1,
being sure to mount the flat side as shown in the parts diagram.
21. Install R8, 270 ohm (red-violet-brown).
22. Install C7, a .01 uF mylar capacitor (marked 103). Again, being an
integral part of the oscillator circuit we are installing a high quality mylar
23. Identify and install C5, the .0015 uF disc capacitor (marked .0015 or
1500K). Keep those leads as short as possible.
24. Install C3, .1uF disc capacitor (marked 104).
25. Install R3, 10K ohm (brown-black-orange).
26. Install R2, 120 ohm (brown-red-brown).
27. Install R5, 10K ohm (brown-black-orange).
28. Install C6, .01 uF disc capacitor (marked .01 or 103 or 10nF).
29. Install C11, .1uF disc capacitor (marked 104).
30. Install R6,1K ohm (brown-black-red).
TF1 • 11
TF1 • 12
31. Identify C1, the 10 uF electrolytic capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors
are polarized with a (+) and (-) lead and must be installed in the correct
orientation. Ordinarily, only the negative side is marked on the capacitor
body with a dark band and the (-) sign clearly shown, while the PC
boards will usually show the (+) hole location. Use care to ensure proper
polarity. See the parts diagram for proper placement. The capacitor
should fit snugly down to the PC board.
32. Install C1, noting the polarity.
33. While we are in the area, lets install C10,.01 uF disc (marked .01 or
103 or 10nF).
34. Install resistor R4, 270 ohm (red-violet-brown).
35. Install C4, 10 uF electrolytic capacitor. Be sure to orient the part
correctly. See the parts layout diagram for proper placement.
Believe it or not, you’re better than halfway done with your treasure finder!
Take a short break to examine your work up until now. You have completed
the two oscillators that are contained in the circuit. Well, that's enough of a
rest, lets get back to work!
Next we’ll work on the audio path for the output signal.
36. Install, C9, 220 uF (marked 220 uF). Again, this capacitor is
polarized and should be placed in only one direction.
37. Jumping around a bit, also install electrolytic capacitor C12, 220 uF.
Watch that polarity!
38. Using a scrap component lead, form a jumper wire and install in the
JMP2 holes. Jumpers are like electronic “bridges” that carry signals over
the PC board traces.
39. Install C13, .01uF disc capacitor (marked .01 or 103 or 10nF).
40. Install U2, the LM386 audio amp IC. Make sure to align the notch or
dot associated with pin one with the notch shown in the parts layout
diagram. Also check to be sure all 8 pins are through the board before
soldering the IC in place.
41. Using a scrap component lead, form a jumper wire and install in the
JMP1 holes.
42. Identify and install R9, the 2 ohm (red-black-gold) resistor.
TF1 • 13
43. Install C14, .1uF disc capacitor (marked .1 or 104).
44. Install R10, 120 ohm (brown-red-brown).
45. Install the 9V battery connector to the “RED” and “BLK” holes,
46. Install the 9V battery clip using a scrap component lead to hold it on
the PC board. Once the leads are soldered on the solder side of the PC
board, you can solder the component lead to the bottom of the battery
clip for better mechanical stability.
Whew! That's about it for the main circuit board assembly. Take a few
minutes now to double check your work, especially the placement of the
polarized and orientation specific components. The next time we visit this
board we’ll be ready to energize the circuit, so this is your last chance to “get
it right the first time” and avoid timely circuit troubleshooting. Remember that
time spent here can save a lot of time (and expense!) when the unit is initially
turned on.
It time to get that all important search coil “wound up”. Here’s some
instructions for getting it done.
1. It is now time to start winding your magnet wire through the shield.
Hang up the “Do Not Disturb “ sign, or mark down as you accomplish
each complete turn through the coil. It is extremely important that you do
not scrape the enamel coating off the wire when passing it through the
loop shield. When you complete the first pass through the coil shield,
leave yourself a few inches of wire for interconnection to the coaxial
cable. Taking the other end of
the coax, continue threading
the wire back through the coil
shield for 21 turns (a total of
22 turns). When you finish up
rolling your own coil, leave
yourself a few inches on the
other end, as well. Next up
we’ll prepare to connect our
Wire end
length of coaxial cable to the
search coil and the previously
constructed circuit board. This
is the fun part. We get to
22 "turns" through the loop shield
piece together the PVC
sections of pipe to begin
Wire end
TF1 • 14
forming our treasure finder!
2 2 " tu rn s " th r o u g h th e lo o p s h ie ld
❒ 2. Fit together the pre drilled
sections of PVC tubing as shown.
our first fitting and we want to be
sure everything is just right before
we finalize the tubing.
# 2 2 w ire
PVC 45 Degree
Case Mounting Holes
Coil wire hole
PVC Union
Coil Mounting Slot
TF1 • 15
3. With the PVC pushed together, slip the mini coaxial cable through the
coil wire hole, as shown, and feed the wire through until it falls through
the coil mounting slot. Be sure to leave yourself at least 6 inches of extra
wire at each opening for final assembly.
Next we’ll prepare the ends of the coaxial cable for final assembly. Usually a
good sharp knife or razor cutter does a good job at removing the outer
insulation. Use caution as not to cut too deeply into the “braid” of the coax.
Note also that each end of the cable will be prepared slightly differently;
follow the drawing for the correct end types.
4. Prepare each end of the RG-174 mini coax as shown. One end needs
to have the shield wires pulled out away from the inner shield and center
conductor so that it can be soldered to the search coil ground. You will
want to “tin” the loose wires of the outer braid and center conductors to
avoid frayed wire ends. Use caution not to overheat the braid or center
conductor wires as this may cause the insulation to melt. Use quick,
definite movements with your soldering iron to avoid overheating the
Cable Preparation
Coil Connection End
Cable Preparation
PC Board End
5. Now on to mounting the coax to the search coil. First we need to
finalize the assembly of the coil by “crimping” both open ends of the
copper tubing so that the coil will fit into the slots cut in the PVC tubing.
Use pliers to gently form the end of the copper tubing at the proper
angle (notice that this will determine the angle at which the search coil
will affix to the slot). A good “rule of thumb” is to leave the coil on a
horizontal surface and crimp slightly off perpendicular to the table top.
6. The next task is to remove the enamel from the ends of the coil wire.
You may scrape the enamel off with your hobby knife, or gently sand off
the enamel with a piece of fine sandpaper. “Tin” the ends of the
TF1 • 16
enameled wire with solder for easy connections later.
Well you’ve almost made it to the completion of your treasure finder. Just a
few more steps and you will be beachcombing!
7. Now we’ll attach the coaxial cable to the coil assembly. Affix the center
conductor of the coax to one end of the search coil. You may want to
insulate this connection with some electrical tape after you have verified
A t ta c h o n e e n d o f w ir e to
b r a id o f c o a x a n d c o p p e r t u b in g
A t t a c h o n e e n d o f c o il to
c e n te r c o n d u c to r o f c o a x
that it is a good solder connection.
8. The final connection to the coil assembly will connect the remaining
end of the coil, the braid of the coaxial cable, and the copper tubing (to
complete the “Faraday shield “ for the search coil. Again be careful not to
overheat the ground shield of the cable, as the center conductor
TF1 • 17
insulation may overheat and cause
a short in the cable. Once your
soldering is complete you may
slide the crimped ends of the coil
into the slots cut in the PVC tubing
and insert the PVC endcap
supplied with your kit.
9. Now we’ll affix the bottom half of
the case to the pre drilled PVC
tubing. Using the two #6 self
tapping screws provided and
running the circuit board prepared
cable through the third hole, screw
the bottom half of the case into
10. For our final cable solder
connection, we’ll affix the prepared
end of the coaxial cable assembly
to the SOLDER SIDE of the PC Board. Notice the provisions on the
board to lay the cable in place and affix two jumper wires across the
ground braid to hold it firmly in place. The center conductor should be
soldered to the input pad connection at capacitor C3, as shown in the
parts placement diagram.
11. Using the speaker wire and the mini speaker provided, solder the
wires to the input terminals of the speaker and then to the speaker
terminals on the circuit board.The speaker has double-stick tape
attached to it; use this to attach the speaker to the case bottom.
12. With the pre-punched plastic panels provided, carefully affix the two
stickers for the front and rear panel into place.
13. Carefully slide the excess cable back through the hole and mount the
printed circuit board in the case. Be sure to install the front and rear
panels at this time.
Treasure Finder
TF1 • 18
Your treasure finder is now complete! Have a final look over your work,
paying particular attention to the orientation of diodes, transistors and IC’s.
This kit was purposefully designed to “plug and play” with minimal testing
upon completion. Install a fresh nine volt battery and depress the power
switch. The power on led should illuminate. Turn the volume control to about
half, and adjust the tone control. Center the tone control knob on the front
panel and adjust L2 by turning the slug down into the form. As you turn the
slug the tone will start out high and get lower as you continue turning. Stop
turning the slug when the tone is too low in frequency to hear. Move the
search coil near a metal object, and the pitch of the tone should change.
Now that you have made some initial checks, it’s time to finish the
mechanical assembly. Install the foam grip handle and the cover on the
circuit board. You may wish to glue the 45 degree PVC elbow into place, but
we recommend that you do not glue at the union or endcap (for future
accessibility to the coil).
TF1 • 19
While we had hoped that it wouldn’t come to this, if you are having trouble
with your treasure finder here are a few suggestions.
Use a methodical, logical troubleshooting technique. Most problems can be
solved using common sense. A volt-ohm meter and a clear head are usually
all that are needed to correct any problem. Most problems are due to
misplaced parts and/or bad solder connections. Working backwards through
the assembly steps will often lead you to the problem.
Please understand that it is nearly impossible to “troubleshoot” by phone,
any specific questions should be documented and sent to us by mail.
Now you're all set and ready to go treasure finding. Try a few “test treasures”
in your backyard to get used to how the search coil works. You may be able
to start to hear the differences between different types of metal, as well. Try
it out with the headset and you’ll begin detecting like the pro’s.
TF1 • 20
We sincerely hope that you enjoy the use of this Ramsey product. As
always, we have tried to compose our manual in the easiest, most “user
friendly” format that is possible. As our customers, we value your opinions,
comments, and additions that you would like to see in future publications.
Please submit comments or ideas to:
Ramsey Electronics Inc.
Attn. Hobby Kit Department
793 Canning Parkway
Victor, NY 14564
And once again, thanks from the folks at Ramsey!
TF1 • 21
The Ramsey Kit Warranty
Please read carefully BEFORE calling or writing in about your kit. Most
problems can be solved without contacting the factory.
Notice that this is not a "fine print" warranty. We want you to understand your rights and ours too! All
Ramsey kits will work if assembled properly. The very fact that your kit includes this new manual is
your assurance that a team of knowledgeable people have field-tested several "copies" of this kit
straight from the Ramsey Inventory. If you need help, please read through your manual carefully, all
information required to properly build and test your kit is contained within the pages!
1. DEFECTIVE PARTS: It's always easy to blame a part for a problem in your kit, Before you conclude
that a part may be bad, thoroughly check your work. Today's semiconductors and passive components
have reached incredibly high reliability levels, and its sad to say that our human construction skills
have not! But on rare occasion a sour component can slip through. All our kit parts carry the Ramsey
Electronics Warranty that they are free from defects for a full ninety (90) days from the date of
purchase. Defective parts will be replaced promptly at our expense. If you suspect any part to be
defective, please mail it to our factory for testing and replacement. Please send only the defective part
(s), not the entire kit. The part(s) MUST be returned to us in suitable condition for testing. Please be
aware that testing can usually determine if the part was truly defective or damaged by assembly or
usage. Don't be afraid of telling us that you 'blew-it', we're all human and in most cases, replacement
parts are very reasonably priced.
2. MISSING PARTS: Before assuming a part value is incorrect, check the parts listing carefully to see
if it is a critical value such as a specific coil or IC, or whether a RANGE of values is suitable (such as
"100 to 500 uF"). Often times, common sense will solve a mysterious missing part problem. If you're
missing five 10K ohm resistors and received five extra 1K resistors, you can pretty much be assured
that the '1K ohm' resistors are actually the 'missing' 10 K parts ("Hum-m-m, I guess the 'red' band
really does look orange!") Ramsey Electronics project kits are packed with pride in the USA. If you
believe we packed an incorrect part or omitted a part clearly indicated in your assembly manual as
supplied with the basic kit by Ramsey, please write or call us with information on the part you need
and proof of kit purchase.
To qualify for Ramsey Electronics factory repair, kits MUST:
1. NOT be assembled with acid core solder or flux.
2. NOT be modified in any manner.
3. BE returned in fully-assembled form, not partially assembled.
4. BE accompanied by the proper repair fee. No repair will be undertaken until we have received the
MINIMUM repair fee (1/2 hour labor) of $50.00, or authorization to charge it to your credit card
5. INCLUDE a description of the problem and legible return address. DO NOT send a separate letter;
include all correspondence with the unit. Please do not include your own hardware such as nonRamsey cabinets, knobs, cables, external battery packs and the like. Ramsey Electronics, Inc.,
reserves the right to refuse repair on ANY item in which we find excessive problems or damage due
to construction methods. To assist customers in such situations, Ramsey Electronics, Inc., reserves
the right to solve their needs on a case-by-case basis.
The repair is $36.00 per hour, regardless of the cost of the kit. Please understand that our technicians
are not volunteers and that set-up, testing, diagnosis, repair and repacking and paperwork can take
nearly an hour of paid employee time on even a simple kit. Of course, if we find that a part was
defective in manufacture, there will be no charge to repair your kit (But please realize that our
technicians know the difference between a defective part and parts burned out or damaged through
improper use or assembly).
4. REFUNDS: You are given ten (10) days to examine our products. If you are not satisfied, you may
return your unassembled kit with all the parts and instructions and proof of purchase to the factory for
a full refund. The return package should be packed securely. Insurance is recommended. Please do
not cause needless delays, read all information carefully.
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Treasure Finder Metal Detector
Quick Reference Page Guide
Introduction to the TF-1 ................ 4
TF-1 Circuit Description ................ 4
TF-1 Assembly Steps .................... 8
Schematic diagram ...................... 12
Component Layout ...................... 13
Initial Testing ................................ 21
Ramsey warranty ......................... 23
This Quality Electronics Kit
was designed and packed
in the USA
Price: $5.00
Ramsey Publication No. MTF-1
Instruction manual for:
793 Canning Parkway
Victor, New York 14564
(716) 924-4560
(716) 924-4555
Printed on
Recycled Paper
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