Century CW2900 Specifications

Installation and Operation Manual
CW2900 Insert
US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION
AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED
WOOD INSERT
Safety tested according to ULC S628,
UL 737 and UL 1482 Standards
by Intertek Testing Services
www.century-heating.com
Stove Builder International Inc.
250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures
(Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3
Tel: (418) 878-3040 Fax: (418) 878-3001
This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a
copyrighted document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this
manual from time to time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages
arising out of the use of information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized
sources.
READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE
Printed in Canada
45557A
10-05-2013
CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS CENTURY WOOD INSERT
As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace
manufacturers, Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all
its products. We want to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.
In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions
for safe and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from
this insert as you build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.
We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by
professionals who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute®) or
in Canada by WETT (Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC
(Association des Professionnels du Chauffage).
Congratulations on making a wise purchase.
If this insert is not properly installed, combustible materials near it may overheat. To
reduce the risk of fire, follow the installation instructions in this manual exactly.
Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and installation inspection
requirements in your area.
Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new insert. You may
need to get a building permit for the installation of this insert and the chimney that it
is connected to. Consult your municipal building department or fire department
before installation. We recommend that you also inform your home insurance
company to find out if the installation will affect your policy.
This heating unit is designed to serve as a supplementary heat source. We
recommend that a primary heat source also be available in the home. The
manufacturer cannot be responsible for costs associated with the use of another
heating system.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Table of content
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ................................. 6 1 Safety Information .............................................................................. 6 1.1 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings ......................... 6 2 General Information ........................................................................... 8 2.1 CW2900 Insert Specifications ................................................................................ 8 2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You .................................................. 10 2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency ............................................. 11 2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment .............................................. 11 2.4.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of? ................................................................... 11 3 Fuel ..................................................................................................... 13 3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned .................................................................. 13 3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood................................................................ 13 3.2.1 What is Good Firewood?................................................................................... 13 3.2.2 Tree Species ..................................................................................................... 13 3.2.3 Log Length ........................................................................................................ 14 3.2.4 Piece Size ......................................................................................................... 14 3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood......................................................................................... 15 3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ................................................................. 16 3.3 Manufactured Logs............................................................................................... 16 4 Operating Your Insert ...................................................................... 17 4.1 The Use of a Fire Screen ..................................................................................... 17 4.2 Your First Fires ..................................................................................................... 17 4.3 Lighting Fires ........................................................................................................ 17 4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting................................................................................. 18 4.3.2 The Top Down Fire ........................................................................................... 18 4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs ............................................................................................. 19 4.3.4 Using Fire Starters ............................................................................................ 19 4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires ........................................................................................ 19 4.4.1 General Advice ................................................................................................. 19 4.4.2 Ash Removal..................................................................................................... 20 4.4.3 Raking Charcoal ............................................................................................... 20 4.4.4 Firing Each New Load Hot ................................................................................ 21 4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ............................................................................ 21 3
CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
4.5 Fan Operation ...................................................................................................... 22 4.5.1 Building Different Fires for Different Needs ....................................................... 22 5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ....................................... 25 5.1 Insert Maintenance ............................................................................................... 25 5.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass ......................................................................................... 25 5.1.2 Replacing the Door Gasket ............................................................................... 26 5.1.3 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass .................................................. 26 5.1.4 Cleaning and Painting the Insert ....................................................................... 27 5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance ........................................................... 27 5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary ............................................................... 27 5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney? .................................................... 27 5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney ....................................................................................... 28 PART B - INSTALLATION .................................................................. 29 6 Pre-Installation Masonry Fireplace Requirements ........................ 29 7 Safety Information ............................................................................ 31 7.1 7.2 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings .................................................. 31 Regulations Covering Insert Installation ............................................................... 31 8 Clearances to Combustible Material ............................................... 33 8.1 8.2 8.3 8.4 8.5 Location of the Certification Label ........................................................................ 33 The Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper ................................................................ 33 Compliance of a Combustible Mantel Shelf .......................................................... 34 Positioning the Unit .............................................................................................. 35 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles, and Floor Protector .. 40 9 The Venting System........................................................................... 42 9.1 General ................................................................................................................ 42 9.2 Block-Off Plate ..................................................................................................... 42 9.3 Suitable Chimneys ............................................................................................... 43 9.4 Liner Installation ................................................................................................... 43 9.5 Chimney Liner Installation .................................................................................... 44 9.5.1 If the chimney liner does align with the insert’s flue outlet, you have two
options .............................................................................................................. 44 9.5.2 If the chimney liner does not align with the insert’s flue outlet........................... 45 9.6 Minimum Chimney Height .................................................................................... 46 9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House ...................................... 46 4
CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
9.7.1 Why the Chimney Should Penetrate the Highest Heated Space ...................... 46 9.8 Supply of Combustion Air ..................................................................................... 47 9.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses ................................................................... 47 Appendix 1: Blower Installation ............................................................ 48 Appendix 2: Installing the Adapter for Fresh Air Kit (AC01298) ..... 49 Appendix 3: Faceplate Installation ........................................................ 50 Appendix 4: Top Surround and Mantel Shelf Heat Shield Installation
(AC01317) .......................................................................... 52 Appendix 5: Installing the Fire Screen (AC01315) .............................. 53 Appendix 6: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle ............. 54 Appendix 7: Removal Instructions ........................................................ 56 Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List ................................... 57 CENTURY HEATING LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY .......... 60 REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE
To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of the date you
purchased your insert. Keep your sales invoice. We also recommend that you
register your warranty online at:
http://www.century-heating.com/en/service-support/warranty-registration
Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the information we need
about your insert.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE
Please see Part B for installation instructions.
1 Safety Information
1.1 Summary of Operation and Maintenance Cautions and Warnings
•
HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE
AWAY. CONTACT MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR
INSERT OPERATION.
•
USING AN INSERT WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS
GLASS OR FIREBRICKS OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION
AND MAY DAMAGE THE INSERT.
•
OPERATE ONLY WITH DOOR FULLY CLOSED OR FULLY OPEN WITH FIRE
SCREEN IN PLACE. IF DOOR IS LEFT PARTLY OPEN, GAS AND FLAME MAY BE
DRAWN OUT OF THE OPENING, CREATING RISKS FROM BOTH FIRE AND
SMOKE.
•
OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING THE LOADING DOOR.
•
THIS INSERT HAS BEEN TESTED FOR USE WITH AN OPEN DOOR IN
CONJUNCTION WITH A FIRE SCREEN (AC01315, SOLD SEPARATELY). THE
DOOR MAY BE OPEN OR FIRE SCREEN REMOVED ONLY DURING LIGHTING
PROCEDURES OR RELOADING. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR OR PUT BACK
THE FIRE SCREEN AFTER IGNITION. DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT
UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS OPENED WITH OR WITHOUT FIRE SCREEN.
•
NEVER USE GASOLINE, LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL,
KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS
TO START A FIRE IN THIS INSERT. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS
WELL AWAY FROM THE INSERT WHILE IT IS IN USE.
•
DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.
•
BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
•
DO NOT BURN:
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
o
GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
COAL OR CHARCOAL,
TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,
MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,
RAILROAD TIES OR
LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.
•
THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN
ACCORDANCE WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.
•
DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY MEANS OF GRATES, AND IRONS OR OTHER
MEANS.
•
SOME JURISDICTIONS IN THE USA REQUIRE A SUPPLY OF OUTDOOR
COMBUSTION AIR FOR THE INSERT. IN CANADA, AN OUTDOOR AIR SUPPLY IS
NOT REQUIRED, IF A CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) DETECTOR/ALARM IS
LOCATED IN THE ROOM IN WHICH THE INSERT IS INSTALLED. THE CO
DETECTOR WILL PROVIDE WARNING IF FOR ANY REASON THE WOOD INSERT
FAILS TO FUNCTION CORRECTLY. IF YOU ARE REQUIRED TO INSTALL AN
OUTDOOR AIR SUPPLY, WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU ALSO INSTALL A CO
DETECTOR/ALARM TO PROVIDE WARNING IF SMOKE SPILLAGE FROM THE
INSERT OCCURS.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
2
General Information
2.1 CW2900 Insert Specifications
Fuel Type
Cordwood
Test Standards (safety)
ULC S628, UL 737 and UL 1482
Test Standard (emissions)
EPA Method 28 (40 CFR Part 60)
Heating capacity range*
500 to 2100 sq. ft. (47 to 195 m2)
Maximum heat output**
(EPA test fuel)
32 200 BTU/h (9,4 kW/h)
Maximum heat output**
(natural hardwood fuel)
75 000 BTU/h (22 kW/h)
Optimum efficiency
77,2 %
Test Standard (efficiency)
CSA B415.1-10
Approximate Burn Time
6 to 8 hours
Shipping Weight
405 lb (184 kg)
Firebox Volume
2,1 cu.ft. (0,060 m3)
Maximum Log Length
20" east-west***
Flue Outlet Diameter
6" (150 mm) diameter (vertical)
Baffle Material
Vermiculite
* Heating capacity may vary subject to location in the home, chimney performance, heat
loss factors, climate zone or fuel burned.
** The EPA test fuel is dimensional Douglas fir pieces stapled together into cribs with air
spaces between. We also test using the same procedure except using split hardwood
firewood to reflect real-world heat output. This insert is not intended to operate at its peak
heat output continuously.
*** East-west: through the door you see the sides of the logs; north-south: through the door
you see the ends of the logs.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
2.2 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You
Your new CW2900 wood insert is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the
area it is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower
temperature. This is called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat
homes or spaces within homes.
Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular
space within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another
heat source.
Houses of moderate size and relatively new construction can be heated with a properly
sized and located wood insert. Whole house zone heating works best when the insert is
located in the part of the house where the family spends most of its time. This is normally
the main living area where the kitchen, dining and living rooms are located. By locating the
insert in this area, you will get the maximum benefit of the heat it produces and will achieve
the highest possible heating efficiency and comfort. The space where you spend most of
your time will be warmest, while bedrooms and basement (if there is one) will stay cooler.
In this way, you will burn less wood than with other forms of heating.
Although the insert may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate
temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric
heating system to provide backup heating.
Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing
and location of the insert, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone.
Three-season vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller inserts than houses that
are heated all winter.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
2.3 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency
The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the CW2900 firebox
mean that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the outside
environment than if you used an older conventional stove. But there is more to the
emission control technologies than protecting the environment.
The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content
of the fuel. By burning the wood completely, your insert releases all the heat energy from
the wood instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the
firebox allow you to reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean
and efficient flaming combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.
The emission control and advanced combustion features of your insert can only work
properly if your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See
Section A3.0 of this manual for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its
moisture.
2.4 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment
The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to
use only materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the
environment.
2.4.1 What is Your New Insert Made Of?
The body of your insert, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become
necessary many years in the future, almost the entire insert can be recycled into new
products, thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.
The paint coating on your insert is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic
Compounds) is very low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during
the manufacturing process meets the latest air quality requirements regarding VOC
reduction or elimination.
The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.
Vermiculite is used for the baffle. Vermiculite is a mineral. Large commercial mines exist in
China, Russia, South Africa, and Brazil. Potassium silicate is used as binder to form a
rigid board. Vermiculite can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered
hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
Lightweight firebrick is made of pumice and cement. Pumice is volcanic rock, a naturally
green product found in the Northwest United States. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets
have been dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
The door glass is a 5 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is
made of natural raw materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to
form a high temperature glass. Ceramic glass cannot be recycled in the same way as
normal glass, so it should not be disposed of with your regular household products.
Disposal at a landfill is recommended.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
3 Fuel
3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned
•
GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,
•
COAL OR CHARCOAL,
•
TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,
•
PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,
•
FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,
•
SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD
•
MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES
•
RAILROAD TIES
•
LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE
3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood
3.2.1 What is Good Firewood?
Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the insert, split to a range of sizes and
stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.
3.2.2 Tree Species
The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content.
The main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood.
Hardwoods are denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North
America usually have only spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and
yet they can heat their homes successfully.
Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types
for different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild
weather in spring and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat Softwoods are
not as dense as hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using
softwoods avoids overheating the house, which can be a common problem with wood
heating in moderate weather. Harder woods are best for colder winter weather when more
heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.
Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer
lived than softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable.
The advice that only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
wouldn’t hold a fire overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no
longer true. You can successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species
and give the forest a break at the same time.
3.2.3 Log Length
Logs should be cut at least 1” (25 mm) shorter than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces
that are even slightly too long make loading the insert very difficult. The most common
standard length of firewood is 16” (400 mm).
The pieces should be a consistent length, with a maximum of 1” (25 mm) variation from
piece to piece.
3.2.4 Piece Size
Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry
enough to burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t
have the sharp edges where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be
split to encourage drying.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross
section. Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often,
the firewood purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient
stoking. It is sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.
3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood
Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood
inserts. Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and
involves lack of heat and dirty glass door. See Section 5: Maintaining your wood
heating system for concerns about creosote.
Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
firewood takes a long time to dry
firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the
wood in spring and dry it yourself
drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates
drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather
small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces
split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds
softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods
softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being
stacked in the open for only the summer months
hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully,
especially if the pieces are big
firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and
wind; it takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed
firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight
and will allow your insert to produce its highest possible efficiency
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content
You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:
•
•
•
•
•
•
cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry
as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream colored to grey or yellow,
bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood
sounds dull,
dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,
split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels
damp, it is too wet,
burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.
You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your
firewood.
3.3 Manufactured Logs
Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax impregnated sawdust or logs with any
chemical additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be
burned, but use caution in the number of these logs burned at one time. Start with one
manufactured log and see how the insert reacts. Never use more than two manufactured
logs.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
4 Operating Your Insert
4.1 The Use of a Fire Screen
This insert has been tested for use with an open door in conjunction with a fire screen
(AC01315 sold separately). Make sure the fire screen is properly secured on the insert to
avoid any risk of sparks damaging your flooring. When the fire screen is in use, do not
leave the insert unattended so that you can respond promptly in the event of smoke
spillage into the room. Potential causes of smoke spillage are described in section height
of this manual. See Appendix 5: Installing the Fire Screen (AC01315) for installation
instructions.
OPERATING WITH THE FIRE SCREEN INCREASES POSSIBILITIES OF
GENERATING CARBON MONOXIDE. CARBON MONOXIDE IS AN ODOURLESS GAS
THAT IS HIGHLY TOXIC AND WHICH CAN CAUSE DEATH AT HIGH
CONCENTRATION IN AIR.
4.2 Your First Fires
Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint cures and the internal
components of the insert are conditioned.
As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but
they do smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So,
when you first light your insert, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate
the house. As you burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the
curing temperature of the paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you
have burned one or two very hot fires.
Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger
and hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the insert. Once the paint smell
disappears, your insert is ready for serious heating.
4.3 Lighting Fires
Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever
method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts
fast produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three
popular and effective ways to start wood fires.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
4.3.1 Conventional Fire Starting
The conventional way to build a wood
fire is to bunch up 5 to 10 sheets of
plain newspaper and place them in the
firebox. Next, place 10 or so pieces of
fine kindling on the newspaper. This
kindling should be very thin; less than
1” (25 mm). Next, place some larger
kindling pieces on the fine kindling.
Open the air control fully and light the
newspaper. If you have a tall, straight
venting system you should be able to
close the door immediately and the fire
will ignite. Once the fire has ignited,
close the door and leave the air control
fully open.
A conventional kindling fire with paper
under finely split wood.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY
OPENED. ALWAYS CLOSE AND LATCH THE DOOR AFTER THE FIRE IGNITES.
After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you
have a fire of the right size for the conditions.
4.3.2 The Top Down Fire
The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first,
it does not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build
up the fire gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can
provide up to two hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if
the wood is well-seasoned.
Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next,
place 4 or 5 more finely split pieces of firewood (2” to 3” [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the
base logs at right angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling
on the second layer at right angles.
The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff
them in between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper
knots by rolling up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage
of knots is that they don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as
the fire burns from top to bottom.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
4.3.3 Two Parallel Logs
Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the
logs. Now place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across
those, log cabin style. Light the newspaper.
4.3.4 Using Fire Starters
Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these
starters are made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid
chemicals. Follow the package directions for use.
Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold
firebox to start a fire.
DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL,
MOTOR OIL, OR AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.
4.4 Maintaining Wood Fires
4.4.1 General Advice
Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will
be variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations
in temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood
burners these are advantages of zone heating with wood.
Do not expect steady heat output from your insert. It is normal for its surface temperature
to rise after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as
the fire progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your
household routines. For example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active,
such as when doing housework or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive,
such as when reading or watching television.
Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals
and ends when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same
size as it was when the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output
by placing a single log on the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and
preferably more, pieces on the fire at a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps
to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of wood should provide several hours of heating.
The size of each load can be matched to the amount of heat needed.
When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the insert’s loading door while the wood
is flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from
the insert when the door is opened as a full fire is burning.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR
CONTROL FULLY FOR A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR
SLOWLY.
4.4.2 Ash Removal
Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do
not let the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.
The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the insert is relatively cool, but
there is still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the insert and prevent it from
coming into the room.
After ashes have been removed from the insert and placed in a tightly covered metal
container, they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should
be placed on a non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible
materials pending final disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay
hot for several days. If the ashes are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally
dispersed, they should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly
cooled. Other waste should not be placed in this container.
NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A
WOODEN DECK.
4.4.3 Raking Charcoal
Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most
of the remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these
coals towards the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals.
First, it concentrates them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and
where they can ignite the new load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered
by the new load of wood. If you were to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will
smoulder for a long time before igniting.
Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so
that it will ignite the new load.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
4.4.4 Firing Each New Load Hot
Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass.
Close the door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the
firebox is full of flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing
each load of wood hot accomplishes a few things:
•
•
•
•
drives the surface moisture from the wood,
creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,
heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and
heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.
Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow
the fire to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.
DO NOT LEAVE THE INSERT UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED
HOT.
DO NOT OVERFIRE.
When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the insert and the chimney,
the result will be a surge of heat from the insert. This heat surge is welcome when the
room temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already
warm. Therefore, allow each load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool
off a little before loading. Letting the space cool before loading is one of the secrets to
clean burning and effective zone heating.
4.4.5 Turning Down the Air Supply
Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for
a steady burn.
As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate
slows down to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the
flow rate of exhaust through the insert and flue pipe slows down, which gives more time for
the transfer of heat from the exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air setting, the
flames slow down. This is your indication that the insert is burning at its peak efficiency.
If the flames get small and almost disappear when you turn down the air, you have turned
down the air too early, or your firewood is wetter than it should be. With good fuel and
correct air control use, the flames should slow down, but should stay large and steady,
even as the air supply is reduced.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
4.5 Fan Operation
Allow the insert to reach operating temperature (approximately one hour), before turning
on the fan, since increased airflow from the fan will remove heat and affect the start-up
combustion efficiency.
NOTE: ENSURE THE FAN CORD IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH ANY SURFACE OF THE
INSERT TO PREVENT ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE DAMAGE. DO NOT RUN CORD
BENEATH THE INSERT.
Turn the fan ON or OFF with the variable speed control located on the right side of the fan
assembly next to the bottom louvre. The switch settings are Off, High and adjustable
down to Low.
4.5.1 Building Different Fires for Different Needs
Using the air control is not the only way to match the insert’s heat output to the heat
demand. Your house will need far less heat in October than in January to be kept at a
comfortable temperature. If you fill the firebox full in fall weather, you will either overheat
the space or turn the insert down so much that the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here
are some suggestions for building fires to match different heat demand.
4.5.1.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill off the House
To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and
load them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 3” to 4” in diameter. After
raking the coals, you can lay two pieces parallel to each other corner to corner in the
firebox and lay two more across them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and
only reduce the air after the wood is fully flaming. This kind of fire is good for mild weather
when you are around to tend the insert and should provide enough heat for four hours or
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
more. Small fires like this are a good time to use softer wood species so there will be less
chance of overheating the house.
4.5.1.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires
Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense
heat. In this case use soft wood species and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the
pieces are packed tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully
char the log surfaces before you can turn the air down. Make sure the fire is flaming
brightly before leaving the fire to burn.
4.5.1.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather
When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily
and brightly. This is the time to use larger pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put the
biggest pieces at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A
densely built fire like this will produce the longest burn your insert is capable of.
You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down
too much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving
the fire to burn.
4.5.1.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times
The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the
consumption of that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the
fire lasts for roughly the first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed
phase during which there is little or no flame. The length of burn you can expect from your
insert, including both the flaming and coal bed phases, will be affected by a number of
things, such as:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
firebox size,
the amount of wood loaded,
the species of wood you burn,
the wood moisture content,
the size of the space to be heated,
the climate zone you live in, and
the time of year.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
The table below provides a very general indication of the maximum burn cycle times you
are likely to experience, based on firebox volume.
FIREBOX VOLUME
<1.5 cubic feet
1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f
2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f.
2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f.
>3.0 c.f.
MAXIMUM
BURN TIME
3 to 5 hours
5 to 6 hours
6 to 8 hours
8 to 9 hours
9 to 10 hours
Long burn times are not necessarily an indication of efficient insert operation. When you
are home during the day and able to tend the fire, it is preferable to build a smaller fire that
might provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer
burn. Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the insert to the heat
demand of the space.
4.5.1.5 North-South Fires Versus East-West Fires
In fireboxes that are roughly square, wood can be loaded so that looking through the glass
door you see the ends of the logs (north-south) or the sides of the logs (east-west).
East-west loads that are built compactly break down slowly when heated, but the amount
of wood you can load is limited because if you put in too many pieces, one may fall against
the glass. East-west loads are excellent for long, low output fires for relatively mild
weather.
North-south loads break down more quickly, but much more wood can be loaded at a time.
This makes north-south loading good for high output, long lasting fires for cold weather.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System
5.1 Insert Maintenance
Your new insert will give many years of reliable service if you use and maintain it correctly.
Some of the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffles and air tubes,
will wear over time under intense heat. You should always replace defective parts with
original parts (see Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List). Firing each load hot
to begin a cycle as described above will not cause premature deterioration of the insert.
However, letting the insert run with the air control fully open for the entire burn cycles can
cause damage over time. The hotter you run the insert throughout burn cycles, the more
quickly its components will deteriorate. For that reason, never leave the insert
unattended while a new load is being fired hot.
5.1.1 Cleaning Door Glass
Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is
dry enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty
deposit will form on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and
can be easily removed when the insert is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel
and then drying. Never try to clean the glass when the insert is hot.
In spring and fall when the insert is run at lower temperatures, you may see some light
brown stains forming, especially at the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the
fire has been smoky and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. When the
weather is mild, you may find that letting the fire go out is better than trying to maintain a
continuous fire. Use the technique described above for building a fire to take the chill off
the house.
If you do get brown stains on the glass you can remove them with special cleaners for
wood heater glass doors. Do not use abrasives to clean your insert’s door glass.
The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the quality of your fuel and
how well you are doing in operating the insert. Your goal should be clear glass with no
brown stains. If you continue to see brown stains on the glass, something about your fuel
and operating procedure needs to be changed. Stains on the glass indicate incomplete
combustion of the wood, which also means more smoke emissions and faster formation of
creosote in the chimney.
If you see brown streaks coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket
around the glass. Visit your insert retailer to get the self-adhesive glass gasket and follow
the instructions below for installation.
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the insert if
the glass is broken.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
5.1.2 Replacing the Door Gasket
It is important to maintain the gasket in good condition. After a year or more of use, the
door gasket will compress and become hard, which may allow air to leak past it. You can
test the condition of the door gasket by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper.
Test all around the door. If the paper slips out easily anywhere, it is time to replace the
gasket.
Use the correct replacement gasket that you can purchase from your retailer. The diameter
and density of the gasket is important to getting a good seal.
Place the door face-down on something soft like a cushion of rags or piece of carpet.
Remove the old gasket from the door by pulling and prying it out with an old screw driver.
Then use the screwdriver to scrape the old gasket adhesive from the door. Now run a 1/4”
(6 mm) bead of high temperature silicone in the door gasket groove. Starting from the
middle of the hinge side, press the gasket into the groove. Do not stretch the gasket as
you place it. Leave the gasket about 1/2” long when you cut it and press the end into the
groove. Tuck any loose fibres under the gasket and into the silicone. Close the door and
do not use the insert for 24 hours.
5.1.3 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass
It is a good idea to replace the glass gasket when the door gasket is replaced. The gasket
is flat, adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. Remove the 7 glass retaining screws (A) and
clips (B). Lift out the glass (C) from the door frame (D) and pull off the old gasket. This is a
good time to clean the glass thoroughly.
The gasket must be centred on the edge of the glass. To do this easily, peel back a
section of the paper covering the adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the
adhesive side up. Stick the end of the gasket to the middle of one edge, then press the
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
edge of the glass down onto the gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on the
gasket. Peel off more of the backing and rotate the glass and press the next section onto
the gasket. Do not stretch the gasket as you place it. Continue until you get to the start and
trim the gasket to length. Now pinch the gasket to the glass in a U shape, all around the
glass. Reinstall the glass, being careful to centre the glass in the door. Do not over-tighten
the screws. Note that the two main causes of broken door glass are uneven placement in
the door and over-tightening of retaining screws.
Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the insert if the glass
is broken. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.
5.1.4 Cleaning and Painting the Insert
Do not attempt to clean or paint the insert when the unit is hot. Painted surfaces can
be wiped down with a damp cloth. Plated surfaces may be scratched by abrasive cleaners.
To maintain the finish at its original brilliance, use only a damp soft cloth to clean plated
surfaces.
If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, you can give your wood insert a brand new
look by repainting it with heat-resistant paint. Before painting, roughen the surface with fine
sand paper, wipe it down to remove dust, and apply two thin coats of paint. For best
results, use the same paint that was originally used on the insert, which is available in
spray cans. See your dealer for details.
5.2 Chimney and Chimney Liner Maintenance
5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary
Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney liner and chimney, forming a combustible
deposit called creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the venting system it can ignite
when a hot fire is burned in the insert and a very hot fire can progress to the top of the
chimney. Severe chimney fires can damage even the best chimneys. Smouldering, smoky
fires can quickly cause a thick layer of creosote to form. When you avoid smouldering so
the exhaust from the chimney is mostly clear, creosote builds up more slowly. Your new
insert has the right characteristics to help you to burn clean fires with little or no smoke,
resulting in less creosote in the chimney.
5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney?
It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your chimney. It
is important, therefore, to check the build-up in your chimney monthly when getting used to
the new insert until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms
slowly in your system, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once each
year.
Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a
chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney
Chimney cleaning can be a difficult and
dangerous job. If you don’t have
experience cleaning chimneys, you
might want to hire a professional
chimney sweep to clean and inspect
the system for the first time. After
having seen the cleaning process, you
can decide if it is a job you would like to
take on.
The most common equipment used are
fibreglass rods with threaded fittings
and stiff plastic brushes. The brush is
forced up and down inside the chimney
flue to scrub off the creosote.
The chimney should be checked
regularly
for
creosote
build-up.
Inspection and cleaning of the chimney
can be facilitated by removing the
baffle.
CAUTION: OPERATION OF YOUR CW2900 WITHOUT THE BAFFLE MAY CAUSE
UNSAFE AND HAZARDOUS TEMPERATURE CONDITIONS AND WILL
VOID THE WARRANTY.
NOTE: Before installing the firebrick, check to ensure that none are broken or damaged in
any way, and replace the damaged ones. Check the firebrick for damage at least annually
and replace any broken or damaged ones with new ones. Inspection and cleaning of the
chimney is facilitated by the removable baffle.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
PART B - INSTALLATION
6 Pre-Installation Masonry Fireplace Requirements
The masonry fireplace must meet the minimum requirements found in the building code
enforced locally, or the equivalent for a safe installation. Contact your local Building
Inspector for requirements in your area. An inspection of the fireplace should include the
following:
1. CONDITION OF THE FIREPLACE AND CHIMNEY:
The masonry fireplace and chimney should be inspected prior to installation, to
determine that they are free from cracks, loose mortar, creosote deposits, blockage, or
other signs of deterioration. If evidence of deterioration is noted, the fireplace or
chimney should be upgraded and/or cleaned prior to installation.
Masonry or steel, including the damper plate, may be removed from the smoke shelf
and adjacent damper frame if necessary to accommodate the insert’s chimney liner,
provided that their removal will not weaken the structure of the fireplace and chimney,
and will not reduce protection for combustible materials to less than that required by the
building code.
2. INSTALLATION INTO AN EXISTING FACTORY-BUILT ZERO-CLEARANCE
FIREPLACE:
It is possible to install a wood insert into an existing factory-built zero-clearance
fireplace. However, there currently exists no UL or ULC standard specific to that type
of installation. The factory-built zero clearance fireplace must be listed; that is, safety
certified by an accredited certification agency such as UL/ULC, Omni or Intertek). It
must be suitable for use with solid fuel and nothing in the owner’s manual must
specifically prohibit the installation of a fireplace insert. When in doubt, check with the
fireplace manufacturer. The installation of the zero-clearance fireplace MUST be
thoroughly inspected by a qualified person to ensure that it still meets the
manufacturer’s specifications. The chimney must be at least 1" (25 mm) larger in
diameter than the stainless steel liner that will run from the insert flue collar to the top of
the chimney termination.
Never remove parts intended to insulate the zero-clearance fireplace from combustible
material. Only readily detachable parts that are easily replaced, such as damper parts,
screens, and doors, are to be removed from the fireplace. These parts should be
stored and available for reinstallation if the insert is ever removed. Removal of any
parts which render the fireplace unfit for use with solid fuel requires the fireplace to be
permanently labeled by the installer as being no longer suitable for solid fuel until the
removed parts are replaced and the fireplace is restored to its original certified
condition. Also, any air vents, grilles, or louvers that allow air circulation around the
fireplace must not be removed or blocked.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
3. CHIMNEY CAPS:
Mesh type chimney caps must have provision for regular cleaning, or the mesh should
be removed to eliminate the potential of plugging.
4. ADJACENT COMBUSTIBLES:
The fireplace should be inspected to make sure that there is adequate clearance to
combustibles, both exposed combustibles to the top, side, and front as well as
concealed combustibles, in the chimney and mantle area. Your local inspector should
have information on whether older fireplaces are of adequate construction.
5. OPENING SIZE:
Refer to the MINIMUM MASONRY OPENING table in Section 8.5 for suitable size
fireplace openings.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
7 Safety Information
7.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings
•
THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE
APPLIANCE ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY
OTHER MEDIA (OWNER’S MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES
AND/OR WEB SITES).
•
MIXING OF APPLIANCE COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR
MODIFYING COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDTIONS. WHERE
ANY SUCH CHANGES ARE PLANNED, STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC.
SHOULD BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.
•
ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN
WRITING BY THE TESTING AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND
ANSI NFPA 211 (USA).
•
CONNECT THIS INSERT ONLY TO A LISTED STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER
FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL.
•
IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE
ROOM.
•
DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION
DUCTWORK UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.
•
DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER
APPLIANCE.
•
THE INSERT AND ITS STAINLESS STEEL CHIMNEY LINER ARE TO BE
INSTALLED ONLY WITHIN A LINED MASONRY CHIMNEY AND MASONRY
FIREPLACE CONFORMING TO BUILDING CODES FOR USE WITH SOLID FUEL.
DO NOT REMOVE BRICKS OR MORTAR FROM THE EXISTING FIREPLACE
WHEN INSTALLING THE INSERT.
7.2 Regulations Covering Insert Installation
When installed and operated as described in these instructions, the CW2900 wood insert
is suitable for use in residential installations. The CW2900 wood insert is not intended for
installation in a bedroom.
In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and
Equipment and the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code are to be followed in the
absence of local code requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 211 Standard for
Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances and the ANSI NFPA 70
National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local code requirements.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
This insert must be installed with a continuous chimney liner of 6” diameter extending from
the insert to the top of the chimney. The chimney liner must conform to the Class 3
requirements of CAN/ULC-S635, Standard for Lining Systems for Existing Masonry or
Factory-built Chimneys and Vents, or CAN/ULC-S640, Standard for Lining Systems for
New Masonry Chimneys.
NOTE: The Insert is not approved for use with a so-called “positive flue connection” to the
clay tile of a masonry chimney.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
8 Clearances to Combustible Material
The clearances shown in this section have been determined by test according to
procedures set out in safety standards ULC S628 (Canada), UL1482 (U.S.A.) and UL737
(U.S.A.). When the insert is installed so that its surfaces are at or beyond the minimum
clearances specified, combustible surfaces will not overheat under normal and even
abnormal operating conditions.
No part of the insert may be located closer to combustibles than the minimum
clearance figures given.
8.1 Location of the Certification Label
Since the information given on the certification label attached to the appliance always
overrides the information published in any other media (owner’s manual, catalogues,
flyers, magazines and/or web sites), it is important to refer to it in order to have a safe and
compliant installation. In addition, you will find information about your insert (model, serial
number, etc.). You can find the certification label to the front on the outside of the air jacket
of the insert.
To access the certification label, the faceplate may need to be removed. Therefore, we
recommend that you note the insert’s serial number on this manual, since it will be needed
to precisely identify the version of the appliance in the event you require replacement parts
or technical assistance.
8.2 The Masonry Fireplace Throat Damper
If the fireplace's draft control system is to remain in the masonry fireplace, it must be
locked open for access of the chimney liner or removed entirely. If you remove draft control
system from the masonry hearth, you will need to install the metal plate (27009), supplied
with the owner’s manual kit, indicating that the masonry hearth has been modified. It must
be secured inside the masonry hearth, in a visible place and easy to locate.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
8.3 Compliance of a Combustible Mantel Shelf
To ensure compliance of an existing mantel shelf or to install a combustible mantel shelf,
refer to table and figure below. For example, a mantel shelf with a 8’’ depth (203 mm) ((X)
value) must be installed at least 22" (559 mm) ((I) value) above the top of the insert (see
figure below). Different mantel shelf dimensions are listed in the following table. However,
no combustible mantel shelf can be installed at less than 22" (559 mm) above the top of
the insert. If the depth of the mantel shelf is not listed in the table below, add 14" (356
mm) to the depth of your mantel shelf to obtain the safe positioning of your mantel shelf.
For example, for a 9" (229 mm) mantel shelf, the safe positioning would be 23" (584 mm)
above the top of the insert (14" (356 mm) + 9" (229 mm)).
MAXIMUM MANTEL
SHELF DIMENSION
(X)
8" / 203 mm
10" / 254 mm
12" / 305mm
MANTEL SHELF
CLEARANCES
(I)
22" (559 mm)
24" (610 mm)
26" (660 mm)
Note that you can reduce the mantel shelf
clearance with the use of a heat shield, sold
separately. See Appendix 4: Top Surround
and Shelf Heat Shield Installation (AC01317)
for détail.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
8.4 Positioning the Unit
It is necessary to have a floor protection made of non-combustible materials that meets the
measurements specified in the FLOOR PROTECTION table in Section 8.5. To determine
the need to add floor protection (D) beyond the hearth extension, you must do the
following calculation using the data in the Data for floor protection calculation table of
this section: D = B - (A - C). If the value (D) is negative or zero, you do not have to add
more floor protection in front of the unit, because the masonry fireplace hearth extension is
large enough. If the value (D) is positive, you will need floor protection in front of the hearth
extension at least equivalent to the result (D).
Here is a sample calculation to determine the need to add a non-combustible materials
floor protection. For someone living in the USA whose insert would protrude 3" (76 mm)
into the room (C) the calculation would be:
Value D = B - (A - C)
Value D = 16" - (16" - 3")
Value D = 16" - 13"
Value D = 3"
Non-combustible floor protection of at least 3" (76 mm) in depth must be installed in front
of the fireplace hearth extension.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
If the extension of the masonry hearth is raised at least 4" from the floor protection, a noncombustible material without an R factor is sufficient.
If non-combustible material floor protection needs to be added in front of and level with the
hearth extension of the masonry fireplace, an R factor equal to or greater than 2.00 is
required.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
The use of an R value is convenient when more than one material is going to be used in
the hearth extension to cover the combustible surface. This is because R values are
additive, whereas K values are not.
There are two ways to calculate the R factor of the floor protection. First, by adding the Rvalues of materials used, or by the conversion if the K factor and thickness of the floor
protection are given.
To calculate the total R factor from R factors of the materials used, simply add the Rvalues of materials. If the result is equal to or greater than the R-value requirements, the
combination is acceptable. To know the R-values of some selected materials, see table
Thermal Characteristics of Common Floor Protection Materials.
Example:
Required floor protection R of 1.00. Proposed materials: four inches of brick and one inch
of Durock® board
Four inches of brick (R = 4 x 0,2 = 0,8) plus 1 inch of Durock® (R = 1 x 0.52 = 0.52).
0.8 + 0.52 = 1.32.
This R value is larger than the required 1.00 and is therefore acceptable
In the case of a known K and thickness of alternative materials to be used in combination,
convert all K values to R by dividing the thickness of each material by its K value. Add the
R values of your proposed materials as shown in the previous example.
Example:
K value = 0.75
Thickness = 1
R value = Thickness/K = 1/0.75 = 1.33
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Thermal Characteristics of Common Floor Protection Materials*
MATERIAL
Micore® 160
Micore® 300
Durock®
Hardibacker®
Hardibacker® 500
Wonderboard®
Cement mortar
Common brick
Face brick
Marble
Ceramic tile
Concrete
Mineral wool insulation
Limestone
Ceramic board (Fibremax)
Horizontal still air** (1/8")
CONDUCTIVITY (k)
PER INCH
0.39
0.49
1.92
1.95
2.3
3.23
5.00
5.00
9.00
14.3 – 20.00
12.5
1.050
0.320
6.5
0.450
0.135
RESISTANCE (R) PER INCH
THICKNESS
2.54
2.06
0.52
0.51
0.44
0.31
0.2
0.2
0.11
0.07 – 0.05
0.008
0.950
3.120
0.153
2.2
0,920**
* Information as reported by manufacturers and other resources
** For a 1/8" thickness. You cannot «stack» horizontal still air to accumulate R-values; you must separate each
layer of horizontal still air with another non-combustible material.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
When installed as an extended insert, the front edge of the air jacket will be installed flush
with the fireplace facing. Otherwise the unit can be moved back as much as 2 1/4" (57 mm)
or any position in between. The position chosen will depend on your own preference for
most installations, your current configuration, the compliance with the preceding installation
instructions and compliance with the building code requirements. To determine the
minimum and maximum projection of the insert, refer to table Data for floor protection
calculation.
Data for Floor Protection Calculation
MAXIMUM
EXTENDED
INCHES
MILLIMETRES
MINIMUM
EXTENDED
A
Dimension of
the hearth
extension
A
INCHES
MILLIMETRES
Dimension of
the hearth
extension
B
(Note 1)
C
D
E
CAN: 18"
USA: 16"
5 3/16"
D = B - (A - C)
8 13/16"
CAN: 457 mm
USA: 406 mm
132 mm
D = B - (A - C)
224 mm
B
(Note 1)
C
D
E
CAN: 18"
USA: 16"
2 15/16"
D = B - (A - C)
11 1/16"
CAN: 457 mm
USA: 406 mm
75 mm
D = B - (A - C)
281 mm
AIR
JACKET
Flush
with
fireplace
facing
AIR
JACKET
Back
from
fireplace
facing
2¼
(57mm)"
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
8.5 Minimum Masonry Opening, Clearances to Combustibles, and Floor
Protector
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
MINIMUM MASONRY
OPENING
CLEARANCES
F
16" (406 mm)
J
23 3/8" (594 mm)
G
12" (305 mm)
K
28 7/8" (733 mm)**
H
20" (508 mm)
L
15 7/8" (403 mm)
I
22" (559 mm)*
MAXIMUM THICKNESS
O
12" (305 mm)
P
1" (25 mm)
FLOOR PROTECTION
CANADA
USA
B
18’’ (457 mm) – Note1
16’’ (406 mm) – Note 1
M
8’’ (203 mm)
N/A (Canada only)
N
N/A (USA only)
8’’ (203 mm)
Minimum floor to ceiling clearance: 84’’ (213 cm)
*
For a 8" (203 mm) mantel shelf. See Section 8.3 Compliance of a Combustible
Mantel Shelf for other mantel shelf dimensions. Note that you can reduce the
combustible mantel shelf clearance with the use of a Heat Shield, sold separately.
See Appendix 4: Top Surround and Mantel Shelf Heat Shield Installation
(AC01317) for détail.
** Where a fresh air intake is needed, we suggest you add a minimum of 4’’ to the
width of the minimum masonry opening.
Note 1: From door opening. The depth of hearth extension in front of the insert is
included in the calculation of the floor protector’s dimensions. The masonry hearth
should be at least 4 inches (102 mm) higher than the combustible floor in front of it. If
the hearth elevation is lower than 4 inches, the non-combustible (B) floor protector in
front of the insert should have an R value equal or greater than 2.00 and shall extend
29 inches (737 mm) in front of the unit.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
9 The Venting System
9.1 General
The venting system, made up of the chimney and the liner inside the chimney, acts as the
engine that drives your wood heating system. Even the best insert will not function safely
and efficiently as intended if it is not connected to a suitable chimney and liner system.
The heat in the flue gases that pass from the insert into the chimney is not waste heat.
This heat is what the chimney uses to make the draft that draws in combustion air, keeps
smoke inside the insert and safely vents exhaust to outside. You can think of heat in the
flue gas as the fuel the chimney uses to make draft.
9.2 Block-Off Plate
To reduce the possibility of a cold air draft from the masonry chimney to get into the room
when the insert in not working, the installation of a sheet metal block-off plate ((A) in the
drawing below) is recommended. Once you have made the block-off plate to the proper
dimension, cut the pipe hole slightly larger than the liner’s diameter and then install the
liner through this hole. Set the Block-off plate in place and secure with masonry nails into
mortar joints. Finally, seal the joints between the plate and the wall with high temperature
silicone, and then use stove-furnace cement to seal between the pipe and the hole.
In Canada, CSA B365 Standard permits the use of ‘’Roxul’’ type wool stuffed around the
liner as it passes through the throat area as an alternative to a sheet metal Block-off plate.
However, this method is inferior to the use of a sheet metal block-off plate.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
9.3 Suitable Chimneys
Your wood insert will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 6inch diameter chimney liner. The connection to a chimney having a diameter of at least 5
inches (Canada only) is permitted, if it allows the proper venting of combustion gases and
that such application is verified and authorized by a qualified installer. Otherwise, the
diameter of the flue should be 6 inches. The reduction of liner diameter to less than 6”
should only be done if the total height of the masonry chimney is greater than 20 feet.
9.4 Liner Installation
We recommend the use of a chimney liner
(rigid or flexible) to ensure satisfactory
performance. To ensure an optimal draft,
we also strongly recommend adding a
minimum of 12” rigid liner between the top
of the masonry chimney and the rain cap.
In all cases, liners should be installed in
accordance with the liner manufacturer’s
instructions, including instructions for
extension above the masonry.
Use Listed Chimney Liners – UL 1777,
CAN/ULC S635.
In order to connect the insert to the liner,
refer to Section 9.5 Chimney liner
installation.
ATTENTION
INSTALLER:
When
positioning the unit in a fireplace opening
prior to the flue installation, install the insert
into the opening until the top lip of air jacket
is flush with fireplace facing.
If lag-bolts or anchors are to be used to
secure the insert, the hole locations should
be marked with the unit in place. Remove
the insert and locate the anchors.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
9.5 Chimney Liner Installation
The preferred methods for installing the chimney liner are found in Section 9.5.1. Use a
liner offset adapter (Section 9.5.2) only as a last resort.
9.5.1 If the chimney liner does align with the insert’s flue outlet, you have two
options
A) Install the chimney liner starter adapter, provided with the chimney liner. Follow the
chimney liner starter adapter manufacturer's instructions.
In order to connect the chimney liner starter adapter to the flue outlet, you can
install the brackets with the screws that are in the owner’s manual kit.
Using a powered driver, secure the three brackets with the three screws provided
(30131) on top of the insert in the three holes in front of the flue outlet. The long end
of the brackets must be attached to the insert. Insert the chimney liner into the flue
collar of the unit and secure the liner to the brackets with three self-tapping screws
(not included).
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
B) Your dealer may offer a liner fastening system (AC02006), sold separately. Follow
the installation instructions provided with the liner fastening system.
9.5.2 If the chimney liner does not align with the insert’s flue outlet
You can install a liner offset adapter (AC01370), which is sold separately. Please
note that an offset adaptor reduces the free flow of exhaust gases and may result in
smoke roll-out from the insert when it’s door is opened for loading. Only use an
offset adaptor if a) there is no other alternative and b) if the total height of the
fireplace and chimney is at least 20 feet. If you must install a liner offset adapter,
secure the three brackets with the three screws provided (30131) on top of the
insert in the three holes in front of the flue outlet. The long end of the brackets must
be attached to the insert. The brackets and screws are in the insert’s owner’s
manual kit. Then follow the instructions in the manual provided with the liner offset
adapter kit.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
9.6 Minimum
Height
Chimney
The top of the chimney should be
tall enough to be above the air
turbulence caused when wind
blows against the house and its
roof. The chimney must extend at
least 1 m (3 ft.) above the highest
point of contact with the roof, and
at least 60 cm (2 ft.) higher than
any roof line or obstacle within a
horizontal distance of 3 m (10 ft.).
9.7 The Relationship Between the Chimney and the House
Because the venting system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must
have the right characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold backdrafting when
there is no fire in the insert, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is
opened for loading.
9.7.1 Why the Chimney Should Penetrate the Highest Heated Space
When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This
tendency of warm air to rise creates a slight pressure difference in the house. Called ‘stack
effect’, it produces a slightly negative pressure low in the house (relative to outside) and a
slightly positive pressure zone high in the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater
connected to a chimney that is shorter than the warm space inside the house, the slight
negative pressure low in the house will compete against the desired upward flow in the
chimney.
There are two reasons why the
chimney in the house at right will cold
backdraft when it is cold outside and
there is no fire burning in the insert.
First, the chimney runs up the outside
of the house, so the air in it is colder
and denser than the warm air in the
house. And second, the chimney is
shorter than the heated space of the
house, meaning the negative pressure
low in the house will pull outside air
down the chimney, through the insert
and into the room. Even the finest
insert will not work well when
connected to this chimney.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
9.8 Supply of Combustion Air
In Canada, wood inserts are not required to have a supply of combustion air from outdoors
because research has shown that these supplies do not give protection against house
depressurization and may fail to supply combustion air during windy weather. However, to
protect against the risk of smoke spillage due to house depressurization, a carbon
monoxide (CO) detector/alarm is required in the room in which the insert is installed.
The CO detector will provide warning if for any reason the wood insert fails to function
correctly.
9.8.1 Air Supply in Conventional Houses
The safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for your wood insert is from the room
in which it is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its
availability is not affected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly
expressed concerns, almost all tightly-sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to
provide the small amount of air needed by the insert. The only case in which the wood
insert may not have adequate access to combustion air is if the operation of a powerful
exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust) causes the pressure in the house to
become negative relative to outdoors.
If you do install an air supply through the wall of the house, be aware that its pressure can
be affected during windy weather. If you notice changes in wood insert performance in
windy weather, and in particular if smoke puffs from the insert, you should disconnect the
outdoor air duct from the insert and remove the duct. In some windy conditions, negative
pressure at the duct weatherhood outside the house wall may draw hot exhaust gases
from the insert backwards through the duct to outdoors. Check the outdoor air duct for soot
deposits when the full system is cleaned and inspected at least once each year.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 1: Blower Installation
Position the blower assembly under the ash lip and push it against the insert. Fasten the
blower assembly with 2 Torx® type screws provided with the insert, using a ratchet and a
Torx® bit.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 2: Installing the Adapter for Fresh Air Kit (AC01298)
Note: Only remove the knock-out that will be connected to the fresh air inlet.
To install a fresh air intake to the insert, the purchase of accessory AC01298 adapter is
required.
Using pliers, remove the rectangular knock-out plate (A) located on the left or right side of
the convection air jacket. Choose the side that is best for your installation. Then, install the
fresh air kit adapter (B) using 4 screws (C). Secure the flexible pipe (E) (part #AC02090
not supplied) to the adapter (B) using one of the adjustable pipe clamps (D). Secure the
other end of the pipe to the outside wall termination (F) using the second adjustable pipe
clamp (D). The outside wall termination (F) must be installed outside of the building.
49
CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 3: Faceplate Installation
Remove the faceplate panels from their box and follow the installation instructions below;
Contents: (4) - #10-24 x 1/2" bolt
(4) - #10-24 hex nut
(2) – 1/2" x 3" spring
Place the faceplate panels with the finished side down on a flat, soft, non-abrasive surface.
Line up the holes from of the upper panel with the holes of side panel and secure them
together using the bolts and nuts provided. Repeat this operation to assemble the other
side panel.
Note: If the installation of a heat radiation shield is required to reduce clearances from the
shelf and top surround, refer to Appendix 4: Top Surround and Mantel Shelf Heat
Shield Installation (AC01317) prior to the installation of the faceplate on the insert.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Once
the
faceplate
is
assembled, align the notches,
located at the top of each side
of the faceplate opening, with
the top of the insert and slide
the assembly toward the front
of the insert (see DETAIL A).
Center the insert into the
fireplace opening. Adjust its
height using the leveling bolts
on each side of the convection
air jacket box until the faceplate
is properly seated on the floor
of the hearth extension.
Then install one faceplate
retainer spring on each side of
the faceplate and attach the
other end of the spring to the
brackets on the left and right
sides of the insert as shown in
DETAIL A. Push the faceplate
against the fireplace’s front.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 4: Top Surround and Mantel Shelf Heat Shield
Installation (AC01317)
When a heat shield is installed, you can reduce the clearances to the mantle shelf and the
top surround as followed (refer to Section 8.3 Compliance of a Combustible Mantel
Shelf for additional details).
MAXIMUM MANTEL
SHELF DIMENSION (X)
MANTEL SHELF
CLEARANCES (I)
TOP SURROUND
CLEARANCES (H)
8" / 203 mm
12" (305 mm)
11" (279 mm)
Install the heat shield on the faceplate
(assembled with the faceplate extension)
using 3 self-drilling screws included in the
kit. The heat shield should be pointing
upwards.
Once the heat shield is positioned, install
the faceplate on the insert as in
Appendix 3: Faceplate Installation.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 5: Installing the Fire Screen (AC01315)
Open the door.
Hold the fire screen by the two
handles and bring it close to the
door opening.
Lean the upper part of the fire
screen against the top door
opening making sure to insert the
top fire screen brackets behind the
primary air deflector as in (DETAIL
A).
Lift the fire screen upwards and
push the bottom part towards the
stove then let the fire screen rest
on the bottom of the door opening.
Warning: Never leave the stove unattended while in use with the fire screen.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 6: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle
1. Starting with the rear tube, lean and
insert the right end of the secondary air
tube into the rear right channel hole.
Then lift and insert the left end of the
tube into the rear left channel.
2. Align the notch in the left end of the tube
with the key of the left air channel hole.
Using a « Wise grip » hold the tube and
lock it in place by turning the tube as
shown in DETAIL A. Make sure the
notch reaches the end of the key way.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 for the two tubes
in the back then install the baffle before
installing the two front tubes.
4. To remove the tubes use the above
steps in reverse order.
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Note that any secondary air tubes (A) can be replaced without removing the baffle board
(B).
Important Notes:
The air tubes are identified for placement as follows:
Model
Type of tube
CW2900 Insert
Front ► 30 holes of 0.147"
Middle front ► 30 holes of 0.136’’
Middle rear ► 20 holes of 0.128’’
Rear ► 15 holes of 0.128’’
55
CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 7: Removal Instructions
For the purpose of inspecting the insert itself or the fireplace, your insert may need to be
removed. To remove your insert follow these instructions:






56
Remove the faceplate retainer springs (B) holding the faceplate (C) to the Insert.
Remove the faceplate by pulling it towards you.
Remove the blower assembly (D).
Remove the three screws securing the pipe connector (A).
Unscrew the leveling bolts (E) located on each side of the insert.
Move the insert to perform maintenance.
CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
Appendix 8: Exploded Diagram and Parts List
57
CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement
parts for your stove, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve
the right to change parts due to technology upgrade or availability. Contact an authorized
dealer to obtain any of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved
parts can result in poor performance and safety hazards.
#
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Item
AC01315
30569
30025
30185
30742
SE24209
AC06500
30055
30170
SE63001
AC06400
PL55105
PL55106
30124
PL65582
16
30060
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
SE65584
44070
44080
44087
44085
60013
30506
30102
SE65560
PL65562
30160
30064
30059
30206
30187
PL65537
AC01298
30337
58
Description
FIRE SCREEN
ROUND WOODEN HANDLE BLACK
1/4-20 X 1/2" PAN QUAD BLACK SCREW
17/64" "AA" TYPE WASHER
DRILLED BLACK WOODEN DOOR HANDLE
CAST IRON DOOR WITH HANDLE AND GASKET
SILICONE AND 5/8" X 8' BLACK GASKET KIT
HINGE PIN RETAINING RING 5/16" ID X 0.512" OD
HINGE PIN 5/16" DIA X 1 1/2" LONG
REPLACEMENT GLASS WITH GASKET S31141
BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET KIT (6')
LOWER GLASS RETAINER
UPPER GLASS RETAINER
SCREW #8 - 32 X 5/16'' TRUSS QUADREX ZINC
ASH LIP
THREAD-CUTTING SCREW 1/4-20 x 1/2" F HEX STEEL SLOT
WASHER C102 ZINC
FAN ASSEMBLY 120 CFM 115V-60Hz
CROSSFLOW BLOWER 115V-60Hz-56W (B)
RHEOSTAT WITH NUT
RHEOSTAT NUT
RHEOSTAT KNOB
POWER CORD 96" X 18-3
SCREW PAN TORX TYPE F 1/4-20 X 1" BLACK
1/4'' CAST IRON AIR CONTROL HANDLE
AIR CONTROL ROD ASSEMBLY
AIR CONTRÔL DAMPER GUIDE
METAL SCREW #8 x ¾" QUADREX SELF TAPPING TEK
3/16" X 1" CLEVIS PIN
5/32" ID PUSHNUT
ZINC WASHER ID=5/16" x OD=3/4"
ZINC WASHER ID 17/64" x OD 1/2"
AIR CONTROL DAMPER
FRESH AIR KIT - 5" DIAMETER
SQUARE HEAD SET SCREW 1/2-13 X 1-3/4"
Qté
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
2
2
1
1
1
2
7
1
6
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
2
1
1
1
1
2
CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
#
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
Item
PL65606
PL65605
PL34052
SE45557
AC01317
SE65591
30472
21387
PL65505
29010
PL36021
PL36103
PL65514
PL65515
PL65516
PL65517
21388
Description
RIGHT DECORATIVE PANEL
LEFT DECORATIVE PANEL
LINER FIXATION BRACKET
INSTRUCTION MANUEL KIT FOR CW2900 INSERT
HEAT SHIELD FOR SURROUND / SHELF
3 PIECE FACEPLATE KIT 32'' X 50''
SPRING 1/2'' OUTSIDE DIA. X 3'' LONG
TOP AIR DEFLECTOR INSULATION
TOP AIR DEFLECTOR PROTECTOR
4 1/2" X 9" X 1 1/4" REFRACTORY BRICK
2 1/8" X 9" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
3 1/2'' X 4'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK
FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE
MIDDLE FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE
MIDDLE REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE
REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE
VERMICULITE BAFFLE 20" X 12 1/2" X 1 1/4"
Qté
1
1
3
1
1
1
2
1
1
17
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
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CW2900 Installation and Operation Manual
CENTURY HEATING LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY
The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original consumer purchaser and is not transferable. This warranty
covers brand new products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since shipment from factory. Proof
of purchase (dated bill of sale), model name and serial number must be supplied when making any warranty claim to
your CENTURY dealer.
This warranty applies to normal residential use only. Damages caused by misuse, abuse, improper installation,
lack of maintenance, over firing, negligence or accident during transportation, power failures, downdrafts, or
venting problems are not covered by this warranty.
This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, distortion, or discoloration. Any defect or damage caused by the
use of unauthorized parts or others than original parts void this warranty. An authorized qualified technician must
perform the installation in accordance with the instructions supplied with this product and all local and national building
codes. Any service call related to an improper installation is not covered by this warranty.
The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to support the
claim. Returned products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. If a product is found to be
defective, the manufacturer will repair or replace such defect. Transportation fees to ship the product back to the
purchaser will be paid by the manufacturer. Repair work covered by the warranty, executed at the purchaser’s domicile
by an authorized qualified technician requires the prior approval of the manufacturer. Labour cost and repair work to
the account of the manufacturer are based on predetermined rate schedule and must not exceed the wholesale price of
the replacement part. All parts and labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to the table below.
The manufacturer at its discretion may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and investigation of
the defect. The manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect to this warranty by
refunding the wholesale price of any warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer shall in no event be responsible
for any special, indirect, consequential damages of any nature, which are in excess of the original purchase price of the
product. This warranty applies to products purchased after March October 1st, 2011.
DESCRIPTION
Combustion chamber (welds only) and castings.
Stainless steel firebox components, secondary air tubes*, surrounds and heat
shields, ash drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum extrusions), plating*
(defective manufacture), and convector air-mate.
Carbon steel firebox components, glass retainers, handle assembly, C-Cast
baffle*, and vermiculite baffle*.
Standard blowers, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring, and other controls.
Optional blowers, ceramic glass (thermal breakage only*), paint (peeling),
gaskets, insulation, and ceramic fibre blankets.
Firebrick
*Pictures required
WARRANTY APPLICATION
PARTS
LABOUR
3 years
5 years
3 years
2 years
2 years
1 year
1 year
1 year
1 year
n/a
n/a
n/a
Shall your unit or a components be defective, contact immediately your CENTURY dealer. Prior to your call make sure
you have the following information necessary to your warranty claim treatment:


Your name, address and telephone number;
Bill of sale and dealer’s name;


Serial number and model name as indicated on the
nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;
Nature of the defect and any relevant information.
Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain from your CENTURY dealer an
Authorization Number. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without authorization will be refused
automatically and returned to sender.
60