Trick R/C Products, LLC
938 Victoria Avenue
Venice, California 90291
voice 310 301-1614
fax
310 822-7695
email Zod@zagi.com
online orders www.Zagi.com
The Zagi-FiXX kit contains:
Right and left wing panels
1! 370 mAh NIMH 8 cell 9.6v battery
with connector
1! Zagi 5 amp electronic speed control
with BEC
1! GWS EPU-3.5:1 motor and gear set
with mount stick and an 8x4.3 prop
1! Battery charge lead wire
2! Pre-shaped adjustable servo-saver
control rods
2! Control horns
1! Tube of Zagi-Lock CA adhesive (Ethyl
Cyanoacrylate)
1! Custom decal repair set with leading
edge and skid armor kit
1! Popsicle stick for antenna spooler
Optional accessories: Available
from Trick R/C
12 mm replacement motor without gear set
Lightweight antenna wire.
Heat sync for 12 mm motor (not included)
3 ! 370 mAh NIMH 8 cell 9.6v battery
packs with connectors
6 ! 370 mAh NIMH 8 cell 9.6v battery
packs with connectors
Safety is important even with these small
motors. Do not run the motor until it is
installed. See page 18.
Z-F
oam is a unique matrix that is
-Foam
resistant to solvents. The urethane paint
however is not. Repairs can be made
with Zagi-Lock and clear tape. Avoid
overflowing the glue onto the painted
surfaces. Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing
alcohol) or Windex can be used safely to
remove residual mold release before
applying tape or decals. Place the decals
carefully the first time. The decal
adhesive will lift the paint.
NiCad and NiMH batteries are not
shipped with a charge. All batteries must
be charged before any hookup can be
done. Charge the TX (transmitter) battery
over night with the charger in the radio
component box. The radio component
charger will not charge the 8 cell 370
mAh NIMH battery. It must be charged
with a separate charger. Make sure that
the charger is designed to charge a 9.6v
8 cell MiMH battery.
Use the decal stars sparingly
sparingly.. Since
most decals and other design decorations are applied behind the center of
gravity, the wing can become tailheavy.
The decals are better used for repairs.
(See page 21)
Pusher motors don’t have the advantage of the prop wash for cooling.
Pushers instead depend on the air
resulting from the forward motion of the
aircraft. A heat sync employs heat
conducting aluminum fins to help the
motor case dissipate heat by increasing
the surface area. Lowering the operating
temperature can extend the life of the
motor. The heat sync was manufactured
to close tolarances and must be installed
correctly to conduct properly.
Copyright 2002 Trick R/C Products LLC
1
The servo bay of the Zagi FiXX was
designed to fit the Hitec HS-55
servo. The HS-55 is a moderately
priced readily available servo with
more than adequate torque.
Clip both of the mount tabs off of
the servos
Find the control arm with small
holes in the parts bag supplied with
the servo.
Remove the servo control arm with
the large holes.
Cut one of the arms off of the
control arm with the small holes
2
The trim levers are located on the
transmitter to the left and below the
control stick. Some trim controls are
electronic and others are mechanical. Trim levers are provided to
adjust the zero position of the
servos. Center the trim levers. The
control surfaces of the Zagi FiXX are
called elevons because they combine the functions of the elevator
and aileron by means of an electronic mixer.
Computer radios have settings for
elevon mixing. Check the radio
manual for flying wing, elevon or
delta mix setting. V-tail settings will
not work. Once the transmitter is set
for elevons, determine the appropriate receiver slot for the controls. Lay
the servos the way they will be in the
wings. Plug the right and left servos
into the receiver.
Hitec FFocus
ocus 3 radio systems: The
setup switches for the Hites Focus 3
radio system are on the back of the
transmitter. Turn the MIX function
switch to the ON position. Leave the
top two switches in the NORM
(normal) position.
Hites FFocus
ocus 3 radio systems: Plug
the right servo into the CH1 slot, the
left servo into the CH2 slot. Plug the
ESC three color ribbon wire into the
CH3 slot.
3
Always turn the transmitter switch to
the on position before plugging in
the airplane battery. Check the
battery condition indicator on the
transmitter to make sure that the
battery is charged.
Plug the ESC into a charged battery.
The male and female JST connectors
have a polarity lock. They will only
mate in one position: Red to red
and black to black.The
black
servos
should now move when the transmitter stick is moved. Do not plug the
motor in at this time.
When the stick is pulled back (the
opposite direction to antenna) the
servo control arms should move
forward. When the stick is moved to
the right, the right servo control arm
should move forward and the left
servo control arm moves back.
The control arm should be at 90
degrees to the servo in the hands off
neutral position. Remove the control
arm and replace it to realign to 90
degrees.
4
Cut out the square paint thick
membrane in the corner of the servo
bay
Stick the servo plug through the
square hole to the bottom of the
wing.
Push the servo into the servo bay
while pulling the wire from the
bottom.
Cut out the square paint-thick
membrane at the end of the wire
channel on the bottom of the wing.
5
Cram the wire into the cutout. Use a
probe to push the wire toward the
receiver bay.
Hold the servo connector and pull
the wire into the receiver bay.
Pull the wire and apply a piece of
tape over the channel to hold the
servo wire in place.
Cut the paint membrane at the
outboard end of the elevon to allow
the elevon to move freely on the
paint hinge.
6
Trim the pushrod and hook it
between the middle hole of the servo
control arm and the top hole of the
control horn.
Squeeze a thin bead of Zagi-Lock
CA glue in the slot located at the
inboard end of the elevon. Center
the control horn in the slot.
Pinch the “S” bend with pliers to
adjust the center position of the
elevon.
Straighten the pushrod after adjustments are complete.
7
Locate the 2 3/4” wood motor
mount stick in the hardware bag.
Smooth the four sides of the stick on
a piece of medium sandpaper.
Round both ends of the stick by
drawing it backwords across the
sandpaper.
Rounding the ends of the motor
mount stick will make it easier to fit
in the gearbox and the motor pylon.
Push the motor mount stick into the
square hole in the back side of the
gearbox until it bottoms. The mount
stick should fit snug. Sand the sides
a few more strokes if the fit is too
tight.
8
The motor mount stick cutout is the
square slot located on the motor
pylon. Squeeze a bead of Zagi-Lock
the length of the slot.
Slide the motor mount stick into the
slot. Make sure that the stick
bottoms in the slot. Half of the motor
mount stick will remain to be used
as an alignment pin for wing
joining.
Locate the red Zagi-FiXX decal on
the decal sheet. The decal is used
as a glue clamp for the motor pylon.
Stick it on top of one of the panels.
Match the alignment marks to find
the centerline.
Apply a zigzag bead of Zagi-Lock
CA glue to one of the flat surfaces
of the center section. Make sure to
apply a small bead of glue in the
motor mount stick cutout on the
opposite panel. Spread the glue
evenly with scrap paper. Push the
panels together. Align the panels
according to the center bulkhead.
9
Apply a small amount of Zagi-Lock
CA to the opposite motor mount
stick cutout. Match the front alignment pin with the groove and pinch
the wing panels together at the skid.
Quickly wipe any glue that squeezes
out with a paper towel. Clamp with
clothes pins or just hold the halves
together a few minutes until the glue
sets.
Apply a bead of Zagi-Lock CA glue
to the flat surfaces above the motor
wire hole. Pinch the seam together
and pull the tape over to the other
side.
Locate the 1 x 10 inch clear vinyl
tape in the decal bag. Peel the clear
backing. Secure one inch of the tape
to the aft end of the skid.
Hold the tape securely and pull it
until it curves to the shape of the
skid. Pull and lower the curved tape
onto the full length of the skid. Press
the tape to the contour of the skid.
The vinyl tape is important to create
an armor film for landing.
10
The antenna groove is located on the
right panel. It extends from the center
pod all the way to the tip. At the pod
end of the antenna groove, spin a
1/8” drill bit or a pointed tool to
make a hole. Aim the drill at an
angle to come out in the corner of
the receiver bay. Spin the drill
through to the receiver bay.
Clear the antenna hole from the top
side. Push the antenna wire through
the hole from the top to the bottom
side.
Pull only enough antenna wire
through the hole to extend to the tip
of the wing. Extend the wire to the tip
along the groove. Hold it in place
with small pieces of Scotch tape six
inches apart.
Do not cut the extra antenna wire!
Some radio manufacturers provide a
small fixture to spool the extra
antenna wire. If this is not the case,
locate the popcicle stick in the parts
bag. Cut a 1-1/2 inch piece from the
stick. Check that the stick fits good
and tight across the aft end of the
receiver bay.
11
Spool the antenna wire around the
popcicle stick. Make an even spiral
wrap around the stick being careful
not to overlap. Hold the antenna
wire in place with a piece of tape.
Push the extra antenna spool across
the aft end of the receiver bay.
Check the fit of the receiver under the
canopy when installed on its side.
Locate the Velcro squares in the
hardware bag. Separate the hook from
the loop sides. Peel the backing from
the hook sides. Squeeze a zigzag bead
of Zagi-Lock CA on the glue side of the
Velcro. Glue one in the receiver bay
and one in the forward most end the
battery bay.
Do not use glue on the receiver or the
battery. Stick one of the Velcro loop side
squares on the battery opposite the
label. Stick one of the Velcro loop side
squares on the receiver. If the receiver
fits under the canopy on its side, put the
Velcro on the side.
12
Wipe the painted surfaces with
alcohol before applying any decals.
Glass cleaners like Windex work
also. Use the big blue Z decal to
cover the servos
Use the large white rectangle for the
canopy hinge and lock. The logo
print or the all white rectangle may
be used. Center the decal on the
canopy
Press the canopy in place. Smooth
the tape on to the wings on both
sides.
Cut one side leaving the other side
as a hinge. Use a small piece of
Scotch Tape as a replaceable lock.
13
Locate one of the two 14 1/2 X 3/
4” clear armor strips on the decal
sheet. These strips are provided as
crash armor for severe head-on
crashes. In the event of such a
crash the strips help to prevent the
trailingedge of the wing from
cracking or separating. Cut one of
the strips into two equal pieces 7 1/
4” long.
The clear decal armor strip works
best when applied parallel to the
trailing edge at the prop cutout.
Wipe the area with alcohol or
windex. Slip the decal under the
control arm. Align the decal
parallel to the trailind edge and
press the square end to the base of
the motor pylon. Press the remaining length to the wing. Do not try to
follow the elevon hinge line.
Measure and mark the center of the
remaining armor strip on the decal
sheet. Center the center line mark
with the center of the wing. Align
the armor strip with the trailing edge
of the prop cutout between the
elevons.
Press the armor strip to the contour
of the center pod first. Press the
decal over the full length. Air
bubbles can be trapped under the
armor strip. Do not try to remove
the armor strip. Poke the bubble
with a pin and chase the air bubble
out through the vent.
14
Remove one nut and both washers.
Slide the prop onto the shaft with
the raised letters toward the motor
motor..
Make sure that the nut mates with
the nut-shaped cutout in the prop.
Use the prop as a wrench to
unscrew the nut to the end of the
shaft. Leave 1/8 of an inch for the
two washers and the nut. Slide the
two washers against the prop. Turn
the nut on the shaft. Hold the large
gear and the prop to snug the shaft
nut.
Insert the motor wire into the motor
wire hole in the motor pylon. Pull the
wire from the receiver bay side while
pushing the motor onto the motor
mount stick.
Push the motor all the way onto the
motor mount stick until it seats.
15
Plug the motor wire into the ESC.
The polarity to the motor should be
reversed so that the motor will work
as a pusher. It is easy to see the red
side of the motor plug being
plugged into the black side of the
T PL
UG THE ESC
PLUG
ESC wire. DO NO
NOT
INT
O THE BA
TTER
Y A
T THIS TIME
INTO
BATTER
TTERY
AT
TIME..
See pages 18 for first time power-up
procedures.
Plug the right and left servos into the
Receiver. Plug the ESC radio wire
into the receiver. Roll the ESC wires
and stuff them next to the receiver.
Push the ESC on the top with the
label side down.
The ESC has no on/off switch. Use
the battery plug as the switch.
The circuit board side of the ESC
should be visible through the canopy
vent hole.
16
The final step is balance. The center
of gravity, (CG) is located 1/8 inch
forward (toward the nose) of the
servo wire channel.
C/G
If the airplane has been assembled
using this manual, the balance
should be correct. Make sure that
the battery is all the way forward in
the battery bay and the motor and
prop are in place. Balance the
airplane on your fingertips 1/8 of an
inch forward of the servo wire
channel
The Zagi-FiXX will fly best with the
elevons set between zero and .03”
of up elevator.
The most common reason for
balance problems is over decorating
the wings. Use the decals sparingly.
Repairs can change the CG. Always
check the balance after repairs. A
nickel in front of the battery will
often take care of a tail heavy
condition but you might need a
quarter.
17
First time motor power
-up
power-up
-up. The following steps are provided for a safe first time
motor power
-up. Make sure that the battery is charged. R
emember
power-up.
Remember
emember,, the batter
batter-ies are not shipped with a charge.
TE UP TTO
O 500 mAh ( 1/2 AMP).
CHARGE THE 370 mAh CELL A
AT
RATE
T A RA
FOR THE LLONGEST
ONGEST BA
TTER
Y LIFE 370 mAh WILL CHARGE THE 8 CELL
BATTER
TTERY
TTER
Y LIFE
BA
TTER
Y IN ONE HOUR. A
T THE RISK OF A SHOR
TER BA
BATTER
TTERY
AT
SHORTER
BATTER
TTERY
LIFE,,
SOME MODELERS REGULARL
Y CHARGE THEM FFASTER.
ASTER.
REGULARLY
NO
TE
NOTE
TE:: Always turn the transmitter (TX) on before connecting the battery and
disconnect the battery before turning off the TX
TX..
1. Make sure that the motor is securely attached to the motor mount stick.
2. Make sure that the reverse switch for the motor control stick on the transmitter is
in the normal position. Not reversed!
3. Push the motor control stick on the transmitter to the full off position.
4. Push the motor control stick trim lever to the center position.
5. Turn the transmitter power on. Check the output meter for battery condition.
6. Secure the charged 8 cell battery in place with the Velcro tabs.
7. Check that the ESC signal lead is in the motor slot of the receiver.
8. Position yourself with the nose of the airplane pointed at you. Plug the battery
into the electronic speed control (ESC). Make sure that the polarity is reversed on
the motor side.
9. Move the motor control stick slowly upward. The motor should run faster the
further up the stick is moved. The motor should turn counter clockwise when
observed from the front.
18
Preflight check and glide test
Do a preflight check before every flight. Always turn the transmitter power on before
the motor battery in the airplane is plugged in. Make sure that the motor control
stick is in the full down position. Make sure that the controls are working properly.
Check the trim levers on the transmitter. Pull the control stick back and observe that
both elevons move upward. Push the control stick to the right and observe the right
elevon moves up and the left elevon moves down. Hold the Zagi-FiXX securely by
the nose. Move the throttle stick to the half throttle position momentarily. The first
glide test should be done on flat land in a light breeze. Hold the Zagi-FiXX over
your head with the nose pointed straight ahead. Run slowly into the wind. Give it a
gentle push LEVEL AND STRAIGHT AHEAD. Do not point the nose upward. Correct
the flight path with the radio control stick. The test is successful when the Zagi-FiXX
flies straight ahead with a slow sink rate to a sliding landing. If the Zagi-FiXX turns
in either direction after the launch, compensate by adding 2 or 3 clicks of trim in
the opposite direction with the trim lever below or next to the control stick. If the
Zagi-FiXX pitches up and immediately dives, add 2 or 3 clicks of down trim. Repeat
the glide test until the Zagi-FiXX flies straight ahead with a slow sink rate to a sliding
landing. Increase the launch speed each time to provide longer controlled flights.
First flight
Check the frequencies (channel number) of all pilots within visual range before
turning on your transmitter. Turning on your transmitter with the same channel
number as someone who is flying will certainly cause his plane to crash.
Radio controled model airplanes can cause considerable damage to someone or
something if a collision occurs. Please exercise caution while flying. Learn more
about safe flying at http://modelaircraft.org/. It is recommended that you join
the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA) (1-800-435-9262) to provide
insurance, awareness of safe flying practices, and knowledge of what
’s going
what’s
on in the modeling industry
industry.. At some flying sites it is mandatory that you be a
member of the AMA.
Good luck,
JT
19
The Zagi-FiXX is supplied with a balanced power system. Changing the prop will
change the load on the motor ESC and the battery. The Zagi-5 ESC is rated at 5
amps continuous. The Zagi-FiXX with a 370 mAh battery and the stock prop draw
2.5 amps at full throttle. So if the prop diameter or pitch is increased, the load
could exceed the range of the 5 amp ESC. This balanced system was tested with
over a hundred flights. Changing the pitch or diameter burn out the motor after
only a few flights. Using a 1000 mAh battery will burn out the GWS motor after
only a few flights. Trial and error can get expensive. The way to choose the correct
prop for an electric airplane is with the use of a watt meter. Astro Flight makes a
“Wattmeter for indoor R/C models” for $55.00 from Trick R/C. This device will
keep the smoke from escaping from the speed control. Another useful tool is a
tachometer. Cermark makes a good tach for cheap. A simple thrust meter can be
made with a small postal scale calibrated in ounces. A test stand setup with a
wattmeter, a scale and a tach will take the guesswork out of balancing electric
components.
Battery life is determined by two main factors; charging and discharging. Both of
these functions produce heat. Warm is okay, hot isn’t. A hot battery has either been
charged or discharged too fast. First, charging. Make sure that the charger is
designed to charge the number of cells being charged. The best type of charger is
the peak detector type. These chargers will charge the battery to peak at a preselected rate then drops to a trickle. Chargers with timers will often over charge
batteries causing excessive heat. Manufacturers recommend charging batteries at
the rated capacity i.e., a 500 mAh battery should be charged for one hour at 500
mAh. The exception to this is the batteries with the letter “R” at the end of the
designation (500AR, or 2000SCR). The “R” means rapid charge and discharge.
“R” cells are either very expensive or not available in small sizes. Hobbyists are
notorious battery abusers. Batteries that are not designed for rapid charge are
routinely over charged by charging and discharging them too fast. NiCad cells
have a finite number of cycles. Abuse will decrease the number of cycles. Electric
flight hobbyists are willing to accept the shortened life of the batteries for performance. There are ways to cut these losses. Don’t charge at a rate more than twice
the designated capacity of the battery. Don’t charge a hot battery. Get enough
batteries to fly one, cool one, and charge one. A way to speed up the cycle is to
make a 12 volt field battery cooler. Tape a 12 VDC muffin fan to a 6 inch length of
2 inch PVC pipe. The muffin fan is available at Radio Shack or find an old computer power supply fan (but make sure it’s designed for 12 VDC and not 110 VAC).
6” Piece of 2” PVC
plumbing pipe
Battery
12
12
Muffin fan
11
Air flow
11
12 VDC
20
Z-Foam is easy to repair. It breaks
clean. Save all of the pieces. The
material will not crush so the pieces
will fit back together.
The intention of the many stars on
the decal sheet is for repairs. Orient
the stars to half way over the break
to straddle both parts.
Apply a bead of Zagi-Lock to the ZFoam. Put the pieces back together
and press the star onto the replaced
part.
Hold the assembly in place and
apply either one big star or two
different size small stars.
21
Trick R/C guarantees this kit to be free from
defects in both workmanship and material at
the date of purchase. This does not cover any
components or parts damaged by use, misuse
or modification. In no case shall Trick R/C’s
liability exceed the original price of the purchased kit.
Since Trick R/C has no control over the final
assembly, no liability shall be assumed for any
damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of
using the final user-assembled product, the user
accepts all resulting liability.
22
Zagi, Zagi Fixx, Z-Foam and Zagi-Lock CA are Trademarks of Trick R/C Products LLC