Classic Motorcycles & Sidecars Deco 2001 Owner`s manual

Use the table of contents to the left to
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IMZ-8.103-10 - Deco Classic, Italia
IMZ-8.103-40 - Tourist
IMZ-8.107 - Sportsman
IMZ-8.123 - Solo
IMZ-8.503 - Utility
Welcome to the URAL Motorcycling Family! Your new URAL
motorcycle conforms to all applicable US Federal Motor Vehicle
Safety Standards and US Environmental Protection Agency
regulations effective on the date of manufacture. This manual
covers the Solo motorcycle, IMZ-8.123, the motorcycle with
sidecar accessory, IMZ-8.103-40 (Tourist) and IMZ-8.103-10
(Deco Classic and Italia Classic "Cruiser"s) and the motorcycle
with a driven sidecar wheel, IMZ-8.107 (Sportsman). Whenever
reference is made to the motorcycle with the sidecar accessory,
for brevity it is referred to as the "sidecar motorcycle."
This manual has been prepared to acquaint you with the
operation, care and maintenance of your motorcycle, and to
provide you with important safety information. Follow these
instructions carefully for maximum motorcycle performance and
for your personal motorcycling safety and pleasure. Please pay
particular attention to the section "Learning to Ride the URAL
Motorcycle with Sidecar Accessory" and the separate manual
"Driving the URAL Sidecar Motorcycle." It is critical that a
beginning sidecar driver becomes thoroughly familiar with the
special operating characteristics of sidecar outfits before venturing
out on the roads.
Your Owner's Manual contains instructions for operation,
maintenance and minor repairs. Major repairs require the attention
of a skilled mechanic and the use of special tools and equipment.
Your Authorized URAL Dealer and URAL certified Service Center
has the facilities, experience and genuine URAL parts necessary
to properly render this valuable service.
The URAL represents an important piece of German and Russian
history since it has been continually manufactured with the same
general arrangement and outward appearance for the past 59
years after Russian engineers initially copied the BMW's of 1939.
It truly is an "instant antique" as many of our owners have said.
Since the URAL weighs 700 lb. empty with the attached sidecar,
has a large frontal area and is powered by an old fashioned 649cc
engine, it is not a speed demon. The URAL Rugged Classics' top
speed is 65 mph and the Cruiser Classics' is 74 mph with cruising
speeds of 55 & 65 mph respectively BUT only after faithful
adherence to the break-in period detailed on page 16 of this
If you are a vintage enthusiast, collector, local commuter, hunter,
fisherman, have children, grandchildren or dog that likes to ride, or
you just like to putt around on a rig that draws an instant crowd
wherever you park, welcome aboard!
The classic boxer twin has a German heritage. So effective,
simple and powerful is this design that Porsche, Volkswagen, and
even Harley (during the war with the XA model) made this design
their choice. The reliability and torque of this elegant motor is due
to its original design in 1912 by Max Friz, a brilliant German
aircraft-engine builder. He devised a compact and rugged engine
that delivered significant torque for its displacement, at low and
constant rpms, without the gyro effects of other twins. The military
and civilian uses became legendary. The German motorbike
builder BMW, began using the design in their motorcycles in 1922.
Because of its opposed cylinder layout the "Boxer" as it was
dubbed, turns the crankshaft in line with the motorcycle (or
airplane!). This allows for a straight-through shaft connection from
the engine, through the gearbox and through a stainless steel
driveshaft to a rear wheel final drive gear in the wheel hub. This
drivetrain design is exactly like the millions of rear wheel drive
automobiles built over the past eighty years! It is a time tested,
proven drive system made elegantly simple by the "Boxer"
opposed cylinder engine.
Today the "Boxer" engine has evolved into the high tech and
electronically sophisticated and complicated versions that can be
found not only in BMWs but also in Porsches, Hondas and others.
These are wondrous engines at wondrous prices! But they still
retain the basic "soul" of Max Friz's first engines. And although it is
not as evolved as the most modern "boxers", the IMZ650 cc is true
to the earlier versions in looks, but also has many modern internal
components. These parts, like pistons, rings, valves, valve guides
& seats and oil seals are modern and western made. The
carburetors are made in Japan. These parts make the engine
more reliable and cleaner.
However, the "boxer" is still an air/oil cooled power plant. As such
it must be carefully monitored during operation to prevent
overheating. As the gear making and other machine tools in the
IMZ plant are "vintage" ones, a careful break-in of the engine is
very important. Neglecting to follow the prescribed speeds during
break-in or the frequent oil changes will cause this wonderful
engine to rebel against its "abusing" owner. However, by treating
the "boxer" with respect and raising it well, you will be rewarded!
So its true that sometimes simple is better, and old fashioned
ideas and designs have strong reasons for the ability to continue
for a long time. It is the main reason why over 3.2 million URALs
have been sold around the world.
In certain sections of this manual you will find references to more
frequent maintenance intervals than the "light duty" minimal
maintenance intervals referred to in the Maintenance Schedule
Summary. Operation with the sidecar accessory attached requires
adherence to the "normal duty" maintenance schedule which is
the schedule generally referred to throughout the manual.
Finally, all new owners will receive a complementary membership
in the URAL Motorcycle Owner's of America (UMOA) which is an
owner's club that we have formed to facilitate communication,
adventure and motorcycling experience for the new URAL owners
across America.
We look forward to seeing you at a future rally or URAL Owner's
Club Meeting.
Any suggestions or comments are welcome! Write to us or post an
e-mail on the URAL CHAT bulletin board at
Important Notice!
Statements in this manual preceded by the
following words are of special importance:
WARNING: Means there is the possibility of
personal injury to yourself or others.
CAUTION: Means there is the possibility of
damage to the vehicle.
NOTE: Other information of particular
importance has been placed in italic type.
CAUTION! During the initial 2,500 km, a fundamental
bedding-in of parts for all the mechanisms of the motorcycle
takes place. During this period do not overload the engine or
race the motorcycle in excess of the speeds specified in the
section "Running-In of New Motorcycle." Doing so will void
the warranty.
Maintenance intervals recommended are based on operational
experience under various climatic and road conditions. However,
these intervals may be extended or reduced following repeated
checks of the lubricant condition and general technical condition of
the motorcycle.
Carefully study this Owner's Manual before starting the
Specifications and design are subject to change without notice.
Table of Figures
Figure 1
Figure 4
Figure 5
Figure 6
Figure 7
Figure 10
Figure 12
Figure 13
Figure 14
Figure 15
Figure 16
Figure 17
Figure 18
Figure 19
Figure 20
Figure 21
Figure 22
Figure 23
Figure 25
Figure 26
Figure 27
Figure 29
Figure 30
Figure 31
Figure 32
Figure 35
Figure 36
Figure 37
Figure 38
Chapter 1
*Note: -10 Models are Deco Classics & Italias
UTILITY/* -10 Models
Maximum speed of motorcycle
108 km/h / 65mph
*119 km/h 74 mph
122km/h / 77mph
Reference fuel consumption at
85% of maximum speed
12.5 km/l / 29 mpg
*14 km/l / 32.5 mpg
16.7 km/l / 39 mpg
Dry mass of motorcycle
700 lb / *680 lb.
460 lb.
Maximum load-carrying
500 lb. / 485 lb./*400 lb
330 lb
Noise level
below 80db
UTILITY/* -10 Models
2500 mm / 8 ft
2200 mm / 7 ft
1700 mm / 5 ft 6 in
850 mm / 2 ft 8 in
1100 mm / 3 ft 6 in
1060 mm / 3 ft 8 in
Road Clearance
Seat height
125 mm / 5 in
840 mm / 33 in
Wheel base
810 mm / 32 in
1470 mm / 55 in
4 stroke, overhead valves, opposed twin-cylinder
649 cc
Cylinder bore
78 mm / 3.07 in
Piston stroke
68 mm / 2.68 in
Compression ratio
Rated horsepower
Rated rotational speed
5600 RPM
Rated torque, Nm
45 Nm / 33.2 ft.-lbs.
Ignition system
Contactless with electronic ignition timing
Lubrication system
Dual system of forced lubrication and by splashing
SAE 20W/50 (see section "Maintenance of
Carburetor type
28 mm Mikuni
Number of carburetors
Air cleaner
Inertial type with internal filter
91 octane premium unleaded gasoline
PCV Valve
Internal Breather
Ignition system
12 V
Ignition coil
Spark plugs
Ignition timing
Automatic spark timer
Power supplies
G424 generator (14 amp/150 watt -40mdls
or 35 amp/300 watt - 10 mdls and solo)
Storage battery (Russian supplied with new
Recommended replacement: Interstate #12N9-4B-1
Voltage regulator
URAL part no. UA-TB6014-017
Sylvania Incandescent 6014, 7" round sealed beam
Dry double-disk clutch
4 speed box with reverse gear (no reverse for solo
model) and gear shifting foot pedal
I gear
II gear
III gear
IV gear
Reverse gear
N/A on Solo
4.2 on -10 mdls
Speedometer drive ratio
Final drive
Pair of bevel gears with propeller shaft
Final drive ratio
*On sidecar models delivered to high altitude locations, (above 2,500 ft.) the
carburetor jetting is leaner and the rear axle gear ratio is always 4.62 not
3.89. This is necessary to accommodate the reduced air pressure and
engine power at higher altitudes.
Tourist & -10
Gasoline tank
19 L / 5 Gal
19L / 5 Gal
18.5 L / 4.9 Gal
2L / 0.5 gal
2L / 0.5 gal
2 L- / 0.5 Gal
Engine crankcase
2 L / 2 qt. +
2L / 2 qt +3.6 oz
2 L / 2 qt. + 3.6oz.
0.9L / 1 qt
0.9L / 1 qt
0.9L / 1 qt
Final drive
Telescopic Forks
110 ml / 3.85 oz.
150 ml / 5.25 oz.
110ml / 3.85oz
N/A on Tourist
N/A on Sportsman
135ml / 4.56 oz.
(-10 & solo models)
135ml / 4.56 oz.
Air cleaner
50 ml / 1.75 oz
50 ml / 1.75 oz
50 ml / 1.75 oz
105 ml / 3.55 oz.
105 ml / 3.55 oz.
105 ml / 3.55 oz.
Shock Absorbers
Rugged (Tourist &
Cruiser Models
Tubular welded
Rear wheel
Swing arm with
Sidecar: Same
Solo: Lower spring
spring shock absorbers rate
Front fork
Leading link for the
Telescopic spring
Cushioned body (on
rubber cushions) and
wheel on long-lever
suspension with
hydraulic spring shock
NA on solo
Shoe-type with mechanical drive on front, rear
and sidecar wheels, front wheel has dual
4"x19" Rugged &
Front & Side: 22 psi
Rear: 36 psi cold
3.5" x 18" Cruiser
Front & Side 25 psi
Rear: 36 psi cold
3.5" x 18" SOLO
Front: 25 psi cold
Rear: 32 psi cold
Valves with engine cold
Between spark plug
0.50 - 0.65
0.020 - 0.026
Between brake shoes and
0.3 - 0.70
0.012 - 0.028
Backlash between tooth
faces of bevel gears in final
0.1 - 0.3
Between rotor and ignition
0.3 - 0.4
.012 - .016
Hand brake control lever
0.2 - 0.3
Clutch control lever
0.2 - 0.3
¼ of full stroke
of pedal, 25 30
1.0 - 1.2
10 mm
3/8 inch
Foot brake drive pedal
Toe-in throughout motorcycle
center distance (exception:
Sportsman 0° toe-in)
Angle of motorcycle inclination to
vertical plane (camber angle of rear
Headlight installation (with
motorcycle laden)
1° away from sidecar
horizontal (high beam)
Chapter 1 (Specifications)
Torque Specifications
Metric (in repair
US Equivalent
Location on Bike
29 to 33 Nm
22 ft/lb to 25 ft/lb
cylinder heads
22 to 25 kgf-m
175 ft/lb to 185 ft/lb
fly wheel tightening screws
3.8 to 4.2 kgf-m
30 ft/lb to 40 ft/lb
2.1 to 3.0 kgf-m top
14 ft/lb to 22 ft/lb
shock absorber
3.6 to 5.0 kgf-m bottom
28 ft/lb to 36 ft/lbs
shock absorber
3.0 to 3.4 kgf-m
22 ft/lb to 26 ft/lb
bearing nut
3.0 to 3-4 kgf-m
22 ft/lb to 26 ft/lbs
final drive to swing arm bolts
1.6 to 1.8 kgf-m
12 ft/lb to 14 ft/lb
oil pump bolt
.8 to 1.0 kgf-m
5 ft/lb to 8 ft/lb
engine sump
1.4 to 1.8 kgf-m
10 ft/lb to 14 ft/lb
final drive case nuts
7 to 9 kgf-m
50 ft/lb to 66 ft/lb
nut fastening the pinion
2.2 to 2.8 kgf-m
16 ft/lb to 20 ft/lb
reverse gear brake lever
1.8 to 2.0 kgf-m
14 ft/lb to 16 ft/lb
generator gear nut
14 to 16.8 kgt-m
100 ft/lb to 120 ft/lb
steering stem nut
CHAPTER ONE (Specifications)
To convert from mm to in, divide by 25.4 (there are 25.4 mm per
To convert from liters to gallons, divide by 3.785 (there are 3.78
liters per gallon).
To convert from liters to quarts, multiply by 1.056 (there are 1.056
quarts per liter).
To convert from liters to pints, multiply by 2.112 (there are 2.112
pints per liter).
To convert from km to miles, multiply by .62 (there is .62 mile per
To convert from km/hr to mph, multiply by .62.
To convert from Newton-meter (Nm) to inch-pound, multiply by
To convert from Newton-meter (Nm) to foot-pound, multiply by
To convert from cm3 (cc) to pints, divide by 473 (there are 473 cc
per pint).
To convert Celsius to Fahrenheit: F° = C° x 1.8 + 32.
To convert Fahrenheit to Celsius, C° = (F° - 32) divide by 1.8.
Chapter 2
Motorcycle Control & Instrumentation
Figure 1. Controls and Instrumentations
1 - Speedometer
12 - Gear shift (foot) pedal
2 - Turn indicator pilot lamp
13 - Turn indicator switch
3 - Trip odometer reset knob
14 - Horn push-button
4 - Neutral and reverse gear
engagement pilot lamp
15 - "High-low" beam switch
5 - Front brake control lever
16 - Clutch control lever
6 - Carburetor throttle control
twist grip bolt
17 - Steering damper tightening
7 - Ignition kill switch
18 - High-beam indicator light
8 - Electric Start Button
19 - Ignition lock
9 - Rear brake pedal & sidecar
wheel brake
20 - Battery discharge warning
21 - Master battery switch
10 - Reverse gear lever (n/a on
(under seat) except electric start
11 - Kick start lever
Clutch control lever (Fig.1, #15) . When the clutch lever is
squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox. When the
lever is released, the engine is engaged to the gearbox.
WARNING: Make sure fingers are not positioned between hand
control levers and handlebar grips or operation of vehicle
could be impaired.
WARNING: Before starting engine, always shift transmission
to neutral to prevent accidental movement which could cause
possible damage to motorcycle and personal injury.
Front brake control lever (Fig.1, #5). When the lever is squeezed,
the front wheel brake is actuated. The front brake should be used
together with rear brake.
When the brake lever is squeezed, the stop signal lamps are
switched on.
Kick lever (Fig.1, #10) is designed to start the engine. On pressing
the lever the crankshaft of the engine is actuated through the
gearbox. The lever is returned to its initial position by the spring
inside the gearbox.
Gear shift foot pedal (Fig.1, #11) (also see Fig.16, #1) is a
two-arm type. When the front arm is pressed, shifting from high to
lower gears takes place. When the rear arm is pressed, shifting
from low to higher gears takes place. Since the heel-toe shift lever
is short-coupled, you will find it easier to shift up if you rotate the
heel of your left foot in towards the rear arm before stepping on it
with your heel. The neutral position is fixed between the I and II
IMPORTANT! The green pilot lamp glows when the
transmission is in neutral and when the reverse gear is
engaged (see "Starting the Engine").
Reverse gear engagement lever (Fig.1, #9) (also see Fig.16, #9):
Forward for neutral and/or forward running and back for reverse.
The reverse gear may be engaged only after the motorcycle is
completely stopped.
To engage the reverse gear, shift into neutral (or low), then push
the reverse lever (Fig.1, #9).
To disengage the gear shift mechanism, press lever up (forward) to
the limit, then the gear shift mechanism is reset to the neutral
position. Now you can shift into first gear.
If desired, neutral may be selected by shifting into reverse and back
to forward again, when the first gear is engaged, and then moving
the reverse gear lever forward into neutral.
The rear brake pedal (Fig.1, #9) applies the rear wheel and
sidecar wheel brakes simultaneously.
WARNING: Do not apply either brake strongly enough to lock
the wheels because this may cause possible loss of control of
the motorcycle. Always use both brakes. Never stop with
front or rear brake only.
WARNING: An improperly adjusted rear brake pedal could
contact the exhaust system and interfere with proper rear
brake operation. An improperly adjusted rear brake push rod
could cause dragging brakes or interference between brake
pedal and exhaust system. Either condition could cause
improper rear brake operation.
Ignition lock (Fig. 1 #19) has three fixed positions of the key. 0
position - All instruments are cut off 1 position (running) - Voltage is
supplied to the ignition coil, horn, voltage regulator, stop signal
switches, neutral pilot lamp, turn indicator interrupter and head and
tail lamps.
Note: II position is not used for US. import models due to DOT
Note: Leaving the key in the 1 or II position will discharge the
battery. Always return the key to the 0 position before taking it out.
Speedometer is on the dash board, with trip and total odometer.
The trip odometer is reset to zero by rotating push-button (Fig 1,
#3) counter-clockwise. Note that the odometer reads in km rather
than miles.
The indicator lamps are also mounted on the instrument board: (2) turn indicator pilot lamp, orange (4) - gearbox neutral and reverse
gear engagement, green (18) - head lamp high beam indicator,
dark blue (20) - battery indicator lamp, red (discharging or low
Note: At lower engine speeds (about 3000 RPM and/or when
brakes or turn signals are employed), the battery indicator light will
either be on or will flash on and off. This is normal when charging
voltage is below battery voltage. If the light stays on continuously
during normal operation above approximately 3000 RPM, there is a
problem with the charging system or connection to the lamp.
Engine kill switch (Fig.1, #7) is on the throttle control housing
(6). Turning the twist grip counter-clockwise increases engine
The engine kill switch (Fig.1, #7) has two positions, ignition off (up),
and ignition on (down).
Low and high beam light switch (Fig.1, #17), turn indicator
switch (Fig.1, #12) and horn push-button (Fig.1, #13) are
combined in one unit on the left-hand handle bar control housing.
Master battery switch (Fig.1, #20) is under the seat except on
electric start models where it has been eliminated.
Electric Start Button is located on the right-hand twist grip, below
the kill switch.
The steering damper absorbs lateral kicks on the front wheel.
Turning tightening bolt (Fig.1, #16) clockwise increases friction.
This can be used while driving fast over bad roads.
WARNING: Do not tighten the damper to the point where the
steering becomes stiff. Doing so will adversely affect handling
qualities. This is particularly critical for the Solo model.
The air shutter control lever (choke) is fitted on the tube of the air
control shutter at the left side of the gearbox. The lever is moved up
and to the left for cold starting.
Chapter 2 (Motorcycle Control & Instrumentation)
WARNING: Be sure the side stand is fully retracted
before riding the motorcycle. If the side stand is not
fully retracted during vehicle operation, it could
contact the road surface with possible loss of
vehicle control.
Chapter 3
Engine Operation and Maintenance
Pre-Trip Preliminaries
Before each trip, attend to all the requirements of the everyday
maintenance as outlined in this manual. When priming the
motorcycle with fuel and oil, take all the precautions to keep
everything neat and clean.
Gasoline level in the tank fully primed should be 10 - 15 mm /½ ¾ in. below the lower edge of the tank filler. Do not overfill the
tank. See that the oil level in the engine crankcase is not higher
than the top and not lower than the bottom marks on the dipstick
with the filler plug undone.
CAUTION: When draining and refilling the oil tank or
transmission, be careful that dirt and debris does not get into
case or oil tank. Do not allow draining oil to get on rear wheel,
tire, or brake components.
Chapter 3 (Engine Operation and Maintenance)
Starting the Engine
WARNING: Before starting the engine, make sure that the
gear shift mechanism is in the neutral position (between I and
II gears) to prevent accidental movement which could cause
possible damage to motorcycle and personal injury. (With
electric starter, clutch may be pulled in instead of shifting
into neutral. For more than just starting, i.e. idling, neutral is
If ignition is switched on, the green lamp on the instrument board
should light up. If the motorcycle is equipped with a reverse gear
gearbox, make sure that the reverse gear engagement (lever) is
set to the front position. This is important since the green lamp will
also be lit if the motorcycle is in reverse gear. Moving the reverse
gear lever forward will put the gearbox in neutral.
Gasoline petcock positions are as follows:
* Down - ON * Horizontal - OFF * Up - RESERVE
Depending on the engine and ambient temperature, use the choke
(air control shutter), carburetor enricheners and starting procedure
as follows:
1. When the engine is hot, do not choke or enrichen the
carburetors. To do so risks flooding the engine. Turn on the
ignition and depress the kick lever (see Fig. 1) about
1/4 of its travel (enough to firmly get the ball of your foot on the
lever) with either your left foot or right foot, depending on what
position is most comfortable with your right
hand on the throttle. Take up the slack in the throttle until you can
feel some slight resistance from the return springs in the
carburetors. However, do not advance the throttle, since this may
flood the engine.
Note: You may find it more comfortable to stand on the left
passenger foot peg with your right foot and kick with your left foot.
Give the kick lever a swift kick. If the engine starts, tickle the
throttle (quickly advance and retard it) to keep the engine running,
but not too fast. If the engine doesn't start, repeat the kicking
procedure. A properly adjusted warm engine should start within a
few kicks. If the engine doesn't start, try the choking procedure
described below in
item 3. If it still doesn't start or fire, it may be flooded.
Note:Do not open the throttle while kicking the engine over since it
may flood the spark plugs.
To start an engine that is flooded, first open the throttle fully, hold
it there and give the engine up to 10 swift kicks It should start. If it
still doesn't fire, take the spark plugs out to see if they are wet with
gasoline. If they are wet, dry them. Clear excess gasoline from the
cylinders by kicking the engine over 10 times with the plugs out
and the throttle closed. Then replace the plugs and repeat the
starting procedure described at the beginning of this section (1).
For electric starter models: Set carburetor enricheners and/or air
restrictor as with kick starting. Unlike manual starting, however,
the gearbox does not have to be in neutral as the electric starter
may be engaged with the clutch lever pulled in, or with the
gearbox in neutral. Make sure the kill switch is set to "run" and
push the starter button to turn over the engine. Immediately take
the carburetor enricheners off when engine starts. After 2-3
minutes of running, open the air restrictor also.
2. When the engine has been standing for several hours but the
ambient temperature is high (60°F/15°C degrees or above), try
starting it without any choking. If it doesn't fire, use the procedure
described below.
3. When the engine is cool or cold and the ambient temperature is
between 40°F-60°F/5°C-15°C, depress both enricheners to start.
As soon as the engine starts, immediately retract the enricheners.
Run the engine at moderate speed for 30-60 seconds. If it starts to
die, tickle the twist grip throttle (rapidly twist part way towards full
throttle and then back off) to keep the engine running. Close the
choke about ½ of its travel if needed. As soon as the engine runs
smoothly without sputtering at the ½ backed-off choke position,
fully open the choke and keep the engine running. If the engine
sputters, put the choke back to about ½ of its travel for about 30
seconds. After 1 to 3 minutes, depending on ambient temperature,
the engine should run smoothly with the choke fully open.
4. If the engine is cold and ambient temperature is below 40°F,
first, give the engine 5-10 (depending on how cold it is) priming
kicks with the ignition off. This will get some oil circulated to key
internal parts. Depress the enricheners on both carburetors and
also leave the choke fully closed. The engine should then fire
within 5-10 kicks, depending on how cold it is. For example, when
the ambient temperature is 0°F, it typically takes about 5-10 kicks
to start the engine. As soon as the engine starts, back the choke
off 1/3 of its travel and raise (retract) both enricheners (labeled
"choke" in Mikuni carburetor). Then follow the running procedure
described in item 3.
Note: It is very important to back off on the enricheners and choke
as soon as the engine will sustain itself without sputtering. Since
the URAL is an old fashioned engine design, the plugs will foul
quickly (as soon as one minute) if the engine is run too rich. If one
plug fouls and the other doesn't, the engine will run very unevenly
and have greatly reduced power.
WARNING: Sustained operation on only one cylinder for even
just a few minutes could overheat the cylinder and cause
irreversible damage to either the valves or piston. Thus it is
critical to immediately shut the engine down if it appears to
be running on only one cylinder.
Additional Warning: Once the engine starts, do not allow it to run
at a high speed as this could cause abnormal wear of the parts
and may lead to seizure of the piston pin and pistons in the
cylinders since cold oil flows through the oil ducts with difficulty
and fails to ensure sufficient lubrication.
A correctly adjusted warm engine should run steadily at low speed
with the throttle control twist grip fully closed. Start driving the
motorcycle only after having warmed up the engine, with the
engine running steadily at low speed. In cold seasons do not run
the engine at high RPM during initial 3 miles or drive at a speed
exceeding 30 mph until the engine is fully warmed up.
Chapter 3 (Engine Operation and Maintenance)
Operating Precautions
WARNING: Make sure that sidecar windshield is in the full
back position so it doesn't interfere with the right handlebar.
To move the motorcycle from rest, shift to the I gear only. Avoid
releasing the clutch suddenly, because the engine is liable to stall
or the motorcycle will start with a jerk. Do not drive the motorcycle
at speeds below the recommended speeds with the II, III or IV
gears engaged. It is not advisable to use the I and II gears for a
long time, unless so required by road conditions.
WARNING: When shifting to lower gears with the motorcycle
in motion, do not downshift at speeds higher than those
listed in the table. Shifting to lower gears when speed is too
high may severely damage the transmission or cause the rear
wheel to lose traction.
Shift to neutral before stopping engine. Shifting mechanism can be
damaged by shifting gears while engine is stopped. When engine
speed decreases, as in climbing a hill or running at a reduced
speed, change from a higher gear to the next lower gear while
partially closing the throttle.
CAUTION: Do not run the engine at extremely high rpms with
clutch disengaged or transmission in neutral. Do not idle the
engine unnecessarily for more than a few minutes with
motorcycle standing still.
An engine run long distances at high speed must be given closer
than ordinary attention to avoid overheating and consequent
damage. Have the engine checked regularly and keep it well
tuned. Valve seating and good compression is particularly
important. This applies particularly to a sidecar motorcycle
equipped with windshields, carrying heavy loads and operating in
hot weather.
WARNING: When riding on wet roads or under rainy
conditions, braking efficiency is greatly reduced and caution
should be used when applying the brakes, accelerating and
turning. This is especially true immediately after the rain
begins and the oil from the road surface combines with the
When descending a long, steep grade, downshift and use engine
compression together with intermittent application of both brakes
to slow the motorcycle. Avoid continuous use of brakes to avoid
overheating of the brakes and reduced efficiency.
To stop an overheated engine, reduce the engine speed to the
minimum and completely shut the air control shutter (choke)
without switching off the ignition. This will make the engine stall
without any knocks or backfire. Then switch off the ignition. Do
not stop an overheated engine by switching off the ignition.
The engine jerking at low speeds results in premature wear both
to the engine and the transmission.
While using the motorcycle in summer, pay special attention to the
condition of the tires. Keep them inflated up to pressures specified
in this manual.
Chapter 3 (Engine Operation and Maintenance)
Running-in the New Motorcycle
The running-in period for the motorcycle is the first 2,500 km.
When running-in, keep the speeds within the limits stated in the
following table.
Since the URAL engine is an old fashioned design it is critical to
observe this running-in procedure. Failure to do so could result in
a burned piston or valve and void the warranty.
During the running-in period, a new motorcycle requires the most
careful attention. In the course of this period, do not overload the
machine, avoid traveling on freeways and climbing steep
upgrades. Do not race the engine or overheat it at any time.
Throttle limiters may have been installed on the motorcycle to
prevent excessive rpm's during the running-in period. There is a
label on the gas tank that states the running in speeds for 0 to
2500 km for the two final drive ratios used on the Ural
motorcycles. Failure to observe these limits may invalidate the
warranty on the engine and drive train.
Chapter 3 (Engine Operation and Maintenance)
Speeds Not to Exceed for Running-In
Tourist (-40 ) &
0 - 2,500
Solo & Cruiser ( -10 )
0 - 2,500
After Run-In
Pay special attention to lubrication of the engine. It is required
maintenance that after the initial 500 km, the oil be drained out of
the engine crankcase, flush it and fill fresh oil and oil treatment up
to the correct level.
Then change oil in the gearbox and the final drive per the
maintenance schedule summary.
WARNING: For your personal welfare, all the listed service
and maintenance recommendations in this manual should be
followed because they may affect the safe operation of your
Note: The performance of new motorcycle initial service is
required to keep your new motorcycle warranty in force and to
ensure proper emissions system operation.
WARNING: Stop the engine and support the motorcycle
securely before performing all service procedures. Service
should be performed in an adequately lighted and ventilated
work area using the proper tools. When working on
motorcycle, do not support motorcycle by placing supports
under brake pedal. Damage to the brake system could occur
causing possible malfunction and personal injury.
WARNING: To avoid severe engine damage, do no change
carburetor synchronization, jets, or throttle linkage.
Tampering with the carburetors or other critical emission
elements is also a Federal Offense and may subject the
offender to civil punishment and fines. This air/oil cooled
engine must always run on both cylinders as evenly as
possible. Whenever one cylinder is not firing, stop the engine
and determine the cause and correct it before proceeding.
Chapter 4
Brief Description of Design &
The motorcycle is equipped with a twin-cylinder four-stroke
carburetor-type air-cooled engine. Opposed arrangement of
cylinders in the horizontal plane is the outstanding feature of the
motorcycle design which ensures proper cooling and balancing of
the crank gear. The engine valves are arranged in the cylinder
In summer, carefully observe the heating condition of the engine,
power transmission units and the running gear mechanisms.
Under normal heating conditions of the engine, the temperature of
the cylinder heads should not be over 356°F-428°F/180°C-220°C.
The crank gear incorporates the cylinders, the pistons with piston
rings and pins, the connecting rods with bearings (Figs. 4 & 5) and
the crankshaft with the flywheel.
The engine cylinders (Fig. 5, #8) are identical in design and
interchangeable. A gasket is fitted between the cylinder and the
crankcase. When mounting the left-hand cylinder, see that the
holes in the gasket are in line with those in the crankcase
through which oil is fed for lubrication of the
above-mentioned cylinder and oil is drained from the valve
Piston, piston rings and piston pins. The engine piston has
three milled grooves for fitting the piston rings. When the piston is
installed into the cylinder, the clearance in the lock should be
within 0.25 - 0.50 mm. The piston is coupled to the connecting rod
by means of a floating piston pin with circlips.
Crankshaft and connecting rod. The engine crankshaft is made
up of two crank portions arranged in one plane at 180°. It has two
journals with main journals and counterweights, the cheek and two
crankpins (Fig. 5, #26) which serve as connecting rod journals.
Crankcase. The crankcase accommodates the cylinders, the
timing gear and auxiliary mechanisms. It also serves as an oil
container. Oil Filter (Fig. 4, #22) mounted in the timing gear cover
is stopped with plug (Fig. 4, #24) incorporating a bypass valve.
The engine is provided with forced ventilation of the crankcase.
Breather (Fig. 4, #15) located in central opening of the timing gear
cover is used for ventilation.
Figure 4. Engine (longitudinal section)
1 - Flywheel
12 - Camshaft gear
23 - Packing ring
2 - Crankcase
13 - Timing gear cover
24 - Oil filter plug
3 - Camshaft bushing
14 - Front cover of
25 - Sump bolt
4 - Camshaft
15 - Breather
26 - Sump
5 - Rear journal of
16 - Seal
27 - Drain plug
6 - Starter/Generator
17 - Breather tenon
28 - Oil trap
7 - Crankshaft cheek
18 - Front ball bearing
29 - Seal
8 - Front journal of
19 - Ball bearing
30 - Ball bearing
9 - Generator gasket
20 - Timing pinion
31 - Flywheel
fastening bolt
10 - Camshaft bearing
21 - Oil trap
32 - Crank pin
11- Generator gear
22 - Oil filter
33 - Roller bearing
34 - Rear bearing
Figure 5. Engine (cross section)
1 - Starter/Generator
15 - Adjusting bolt
29 - Roller bearing
2 - Camshaft
16 - Rocking arm
30 - Crankpin
3 - Tappet
17 - Rockshaft
31 - Crankcase
4 - Tappet guide
18 - Cylinder head cap
32 - Sump
5 - Sealing cap
19 - Cylinder head stud
33 - Oil pump
6 - Push rod
20 - Gasket
34 - Crankshaft cheek
7 - Push rod tube
21 - Ignition plug
35 - Oil trap
8 - Cylinder
22 - Duct for oil out of
cylinder head
36 - Cylinder fastening
9 - Piston
23 - Gasket
37 - Carburetor
10 - Cylinder head
24 - Oil drain tube of
38 - Spark plug tip
11 - Valve
25 - Compression rings
39 - H.V. wire
12 - Valve spring
26 - Piston pin
40 - Filler plug with
13 - Adjusting bolt
27 - Oil rings
41 - Oil pump drive
14 - Rockshaft
28 - Connecting rod
42 - Oil pump drive
43 - Oil pump drive
As the pistons move up, the vent duct is overlapped, the
crankcase interior is cut off from the atmosphere and vacuum is
built up.
If the piston rings are in good condition, the breather maintains
permanent vacuum in the crankcase, thus excluding any
possibility of oil expelling though the seals. The crankcase
ventilation system is routed to the air cleaner. When running the
motorcycle in winter an ice plug may be formed in the tube
connecting the breather with the air cleaner leading to oil leakage
through sealing glands. Therefore, this tube should be inspected
frequently when running in very cold conditions.
Chapter 4 (Brief Description of Design and
Valve Timing Gear
The valve timing gear (Fig. 6) controls the feed of combustion
mixture into the cylinders and waste gas exhausted into the
atmosphere. The intake and the exhaust valves are not
interchangeable. The camshaft rests on two bearings inside the
engine crankcase. The front is a ball bearing and the rear one is a
bronze blind bushing.
Correct valve timing is obtained by aligning the mark grooves
on the timing gears. This must be carefully observed during
disassembly and reassembly of the engine.
Valve adjustment. It is very important to adjust the valves
properly. Valves are adjusted to provide the correct clearance with
a cold engine. The clearance should be 0.05 mm/0.002 in. In
service, it will change due to bedding-in of single parts.
It is important to readjust the clearances after grinding or partial
disassembly of the valve mechanism. For this purpose, put a pan
under the cylinder head, take off the head cap and drain off
accumulated oil. Turn the crankshaft using the kick lever. Just
when the intake valve (Fig. 6, #22) begins to close, set the
clearance for the exhaust valve (Fig. 6, #10) and at the time the
exhaust valve begins to open, set the clearance for the intake
valve. Check the clearance between the larger end of the rocker
arm and the valve stem. If the clearance happens to be larger or
smaller than 0.05 mm/0.002 in, slacken off locknut and by turning
the adjusting bolt (Fig. 6, #19) in or out, set the required clearance
with a feeler gauge. Lock the adjusting bolt with the locknut (Fig.
6, #20) and check the clearance again.
In the course of running-in, check valve clearances after 500 km
and as required, but at least once every 2,500 km. Readjust
clearances on the cold engine only.
Engine maintenance. During everyday preventive maintenance,
clean the engine from mud and dust paying special attention to the
cooling fins as their fouling will impair the condition of the engine
cooling. Check engine crankcase, cylinders and cylinder heads for
leaks of oil and fuel. Check the engine performance with the
motorcycle running.
If oil consumption exceeds 1 pint per 500 km, replace the piston
Figure 6. Engine Valve Timing Gear
1 - Push rod
13 - Lower retainer
2 - Push rod housing
14 - Outer valve spring
3 - Hose
15 - Inner valve spring
4 - Breather pipe
16 - Upper retainer
5 - Camshaft gear
17 - Valve block
6 - Breather tenon
18 - Rocker arm
7 - Breather
19 - Adjusting bolt
8 - Seal
20 - Adjusting bolt locknut
9 - Camshaft
21 - Rockshaft
10 - Exhaust valve
22 - Intake valve
11 - Valve guide
23 - Tappet guide
12 - Exhaust branch
24 - Tappet
Completely follow all maintenance intervals specified in the
Maintenance Schedule Summary and the mileage noted on the
Service Coupons.
Chapter 4 (Brief Description of Design and
Lubrication System
The motorcycle engine features a dual lubrication system, some
parts are force-lubricated by pressure built up by the oil pump,
while others by splashing (Fig. 7). A full-flow paper oil filter is
provided in the lubrication system to prolong the engine life.
The lower portion of the crankcase together with the sump are
used as an oil tank for the engine. The single-section oil gear
pump (Fig. 7, #24) is driven from the camshaft through the gear
and connecting bar (Fig. 7, #2). Oil is primed into the engine
crankcase through the hole in the left-hand side which is capped
with the dipstick (Fig. 7, #23).
Maintenance of lubrication system. During the daily inspection,
check the oil level in the engine crankcase and top off oil, if
The oil dipstick has two grooves showing the lower and the upper
oil level limits. In checking the oil level, wipe the dipstick and insert
it into the crankcase without screwing in the dipstick. Change oil in
the engine crankcase for the first time after 500 km, then as
outlined in the Maintenance Schedule Summary.
Before changing the filter, wash the engine lubrication system. To
this end, fill the crankcase with at least 1 lt. / 1 qt. of fresh oil.
Warm up the engine before changing oil. Drain used oil from the
crankcase and the oil filter cavity having unscrewed drain plug
(Fig. 4, #27) and filter plug (Fig. 4, #24). Change oil filter at the
intervals shown in the Maintenance Schedule Summary.
Submerge the filter in oil prepared for priming the engine, set the
rubber sealing bushing into the filter and fit the filter with the
bushing onto the adapter of plug (Fig. 4, #24), then screw the
latter into the front cover. Now screw in plug (Fig. 4, #24). Fill
engine crankcase with 55.6 oz oil, 12 oz. Ural Oil Treatment.
Let the engine run for 3 - 5 min. Check the oil level again adding
oil up to the top groove of the dipstick. Oil is checked with the
dipstick resting on the engine but not screwed in.
Figure 7. Engine Lubrication System
1 - Duct for oil flow to rear
15 - Holes in crank pin for
lubrication of connecting rod
big end bearing
2 - Connecting bar and oil pump 16 - Oil supply duct to
drive gear
left-hand cylinder
3 - Duct in rear bearing housing
17 - Inner cavity of crank pin
for oil flow
4 - Calibrated hole for oil flow
18 - Oil duct for lubrication of
friction parts in cylinder head
5 - Crank shaft oil traps
19 - Tube for lubrication of
timing gears
6 - Vertical duct for oil flow into
bearing housing
20 - Oil duct for lubrication of
friction parts in cylinder head
7 - Crankcase sump
21 - Inner cavity of push rod
tube for oil flow
8 - Oil duct to oil filter
22 - Oil drain duct out of
cylinder head
9 - By-pass valve
23 - Filler plug with dipstick
10 - Oil filter
24 - Oil pump gear
11 - Main Oil Line
A - Lubrication of valve timing
12 - Piston oil rings
13 - Holes in connecting rod
small end for lubrication of
piston pin
B - Gas escape out of engine
14 - Holes in piston bosses for
lubrication of piston pin
C - Oil drain out of crankcase
Chapter 4 (Brief Description of Design and
Lubrication System
The motorcycle engine features a dual lubrication system, some
parts are force-lubricated by pressure built up by the oil pump,
while others by splashing (Fig. 7). A full-flow paper oil filter is
provided in the lubrication system to prolong the engine life.
The lower portion of the crankcase together with the sump are
used as an oil tank for the engine. The single-section oil gear
pump (Fig. 7, #24) is driven from the camshaft through the gear
and connecting bar (Fig. 7, #2). Oil is primed into the engine
crankcase through the hole in the left-hand side which is capped
with the dipstick (Fig. 7, #23).
Maintenance of lubrication system. During the daily inspection,
check the oil level in the engine crankcase and top off oil, if
The oil dipstick has two grooves showing the lower and the upper
oil level limits. In checking the oil level, wipe the dipstick and insert
it into the crankcase without screwing in the dipstick. Change oil in
the engine crankcase for the first time after 500 km, then as
outlined in the Maintenance Schedule Summary.
Before changing the filter, wash the engine lubrication system. To
this end, fill the crankcase with at least 1 lt. / 1 qt. of fresh oil.
Warm up the engine before changing oil. Drain used oil from the
crankcase and the oil filter cavity having unscrewed drain plug
(Fig. 4, #27) and filter plug (Fig. 4, #24). Change oil filter at the
intervals shown in the Maintenance Schedule Summary.
Submerge the filter in oil prepared for priming the engine, set the
rubber sealing bushing into the filter and fit the filter with the
bushing onto the adapter of plug (Fig. 4, #24), then screw the
latter into the front cover. Now screw in plug (Fig. 4, #24). Fill
engine crankcase with 55.6 oz oil, 12 oz. Ural Oil Treatment.
Let the engine run for 3 - 5 min. Check the oil level again adding
oil up to the top groove of the dipstick. Oil is checked with the
dipstick resting on the engine but not screwed in.
Start the engine and let it idle for 2 - 3 min, drain oil from the
sump, the head covers and the oil filter cavity.
Important! The bypass valve has been accurately adjusted to
pressure the oil mains, therefore, do not attempt to dismantle the
valve. While screwing in the filter plug, be careful so as not to
damage the rubber gasket.
During motorcycle service, keep oil level in the engine crankcase
close to the top groove of the oil dipstick.
Stop the motorcycle as soon as oil level drops down to the lower
mark groove of the dipstick.
Chapter 4 (Brief Description of Design and Maintenance)
Ignition System
The ignition system incorporates the power supplies, ignition coil,
moving coil pickup, electronic commutator, two spark plugs, a set of
low and high voltage wires and the ignition switch.
A contactless ignition system with electronic ignition timing is
For the electric circuit diagram of the motorcycle with contactless
ignition system refer to Fig. 32.
The system consists of moving coil pickup and the electronic
commutator module.
Ignition coil. The ignition
coil has two high voltage
terminals, each supplying
one of the cylinder spark
plugs and operating in
conjunction with the
moving coil pickup.
Figure 12. Moving Coil Ignition Pickup
1 - pickup base
4 - rotor carrier
2 - pickup
5 - bolt
3 - pickup rotor
6 - electronic
Periodically, check all wires to be sure they aren't crimped or have
loose connections.
Ignition Timing. When checking the ignition setting at the time of
service, please have the URAL idling (800 rpm) and use a
stroboscope (timing light). This way a more precise adjustment can
be achieved than when using marks on the rotor and pickup base
as guidance. Usually, your stroboscope setting will match the
existing marks, but sometimes it will be a couple
degrees off. For future service you might want to put a small paint
dot on the pickup base indicating the most accurate ignition timing
mark (it will overrule the existing "0" mark on the pickup base, so
the rotor will have to match the new paint mark for the correct
ignition setting).
Note: The wrong ignition timing may seriously damage the engine.
It is easy to determine if ignition timing has been set incorrectly.
This may result in a denial of a warranty claim by URAL® America,
Spark plugs. In certain situations, spark plugs can quickly foul with
carbon or soot. The plugs can be cleaned but it is easier to put in a
new set of plugs when on the road. We recommend that you
purchase an extra set of these plugs from your Authorized URAL
Dealer and carry them in the motorcycle at all times.
The lower portion of the plug shell is threaded M14 X 1.25 with an
11 mm length of thread. Spark gap of 0.5-0.65 mm/0.020"-0.026" is
set between the side electrode and the bottom end of the central
electrode. Always use a crush washer when installing a spark plug,
preferably a new crush washer.
WARNING: Do not over tighten the spark plug when mounting
it on the engine, since this could damage the cylinder head.
Functioning of ignition system. Both plugs fire simultaneously on
the left and right-hand cylinders, one spark being formed when the
compression stroke terminates in one of the cylinders and the other
during the exhaust stroke.
28 mm Mikuni VM-type carburetors are used on US import versions
of the URAL motorcycle for compliance with US EPA requirements.
The following sections have been extracted from the Mikuni manual
"Tuning Mikuni Carburetors VM & TM". These sections should
provide the owner and/or URAL mechanic with sufficient
understanding of the Mikuni carburetors to properly adjust the
carburetors to factory settings.
WARNING: To avoid severe engine damage, do no change
carburetor synchronization, jets, or throttle linkage. Tampering
with the carburetors or other critical emission elements is also
a Federal Offense and may subject the offender to civil
punishment and fines. This air/oil cooled engine must always
run on both cylinders as evenly as possible. Whenever one
cylinder is not firing, stop the engine and determine the cause
and correct it before proceeding.
Chapter 5
Tuning Mikuni Carburetors VM & TM
1 - Throttle cable rubber
2 - Cable adjuster
3 - Cable adjuster
4 - Mixing chamber top
5 - Mixing chamber top
6 - Throttle valve spring
7 - Spring seat plate
8 - Needle positioning
9 - Needle
10 - Throttle valve
11 - Needle jet
12 - Starter plunger
rubber cap
13 - Starter plunger
14 - Starter lever
15 - Starter lever spring
16 - Starter plunger
17 - Starter plunger
18 - Mixing chamber
19 - Float bowl gasket
20 - Float bowl baffle
21 - Pilot jet
22 - Float arm hinge pin
23 - Float arm
24 - Float
25 - Float bowl
26 - Main jet plug
27 - Main jet plug
28 - Air jet
29 - Air adjusting screw
30 - Air adjusting screw
31 - Idle adjusting screw
32 - Idle adjusting screw
33 - Needle valve
34 - Needle valve
35 - Main jet ring
35a - Washer
36 - Main jet
37 - Vent tube anchor
38 - Float bowl screw
39 - Guide screw
40 - Needle jet setter
41 - Needle jet setter
42 - Washer, banjo bolt
43 - Banjo bolt
44 - Rubber flange
This manual is intended as a guide for users of Mikuni carburetors who want to learn the
basic methods of tuning and adjusting to obtain top performance and fuel economy. The
arrows that appear in the drawings in this text show the direction in which air, fuel and
air-fuel mixture flows.
Information herewith obtained from Mikuni engineering data and manuals.
The function of a carburetor is to deliver a combustible air-fuel mixture to the engine.
However, in order to be effective, it must first break the fuel into tiny particles (in the form
of vapor) and then mix the fuel with air in a proper ratio so it can burn without leaving
excess fuel or air.
The mixture of the air-fuel ratio is generally expressed by its relative weight proportion.
For example, the amount of air required for complete combustion of 1 gram of fuel under
normal conditions is:
In reality, varying mixture ratios are required for the engine depending on operating
conditions. Although the required mixture rate varies more or less with the type of engine,
its cooling efficiency, etc., the mixture ratio shown in Fig. 1 is required for ordinary
engines. In the high speed range the ratio of about 12 to 13 grams of air for 1 gram of fuel
produces the maximum output. However, in the case of an engine with low cooling
efficiency, a somewhat richer mixture (10 to 12 grams of air against 1 gram of fuel) may
be required to prevent seizure of the engine.
Mikuni VM-Type Carburetors
Motorcycle engines are operated under a wide range of conditions, from idling with the
throttle valve (Fig. 2 (1)) remaining almost closed, to the full load (the maximum output)
with the throttle valve fully opened. In order to meet the requirements for the proper
mixture ratio under these conditions, a low-speed fuel system (the pilot system) and a
main fuel system (the main system) are provided in Mikuni VM-type carburetors.
A - The Pilot System
Low-speed fuel system (Fig. 2 and Fig. 3)
Since the engine is operated with the throttle valve almost closed at idling or in the low
speed range, the velocity of air flowing through the needle jet (2) is slow. Consequently, a
vacuum strong enough to draw fuel from the needle jet in the main fuel system is not
created. The fuel supply during this low speed operation is controlled by means of the
pilot outlet (3) and the bypass (4) that are situated near the intake port. At idle, when the
throttle valve is slightly opened, fuel metered by the pilot jet (5) is mixed with air adjusted
in a proper amount by the air screw (6) and is broken into fine particle (vapor).
The mixture is again mixed with fuel coming from the bypass and is drawn into the pilot
outlet to mix with air flowing through the main bore (7). The fuel mixed at this stage then
goes into the engine. When the throttle valve is opened slightly during low speed
operation, the pilot outlet alone cannot supply the required fuel and the shortage has to
be made up with fuel injected from the bypass. the adjustment of the mixture ratio during
this stage is made by the pilot jet and the air screw, in the case of a two-hole type fuel
system (Fig. 3). While at low speed operation if full throttle is initiated a similar shortage of
fuel exists and during this transition from low to medium or low to high the fuel again has
to be injected from the bypass until enough (vacuum) can be created to draw fuel from
the main fuel system.
B - Main Fuel System
On Mikuni VM-type carburetors, the pilot system and the main system are of independent
The fuel flow in these two systems is shown in Fig. 5.
C - Float System (Fig.
The float system serves to
maintain a constant level of
fuel in the bowl. Fuel flows
through the needle valve
(14) and enters the float
chamber (15). As the fuel
enters the float chamber, the
float (16) moves upward to
its pre-determined level
because of buoyancy. When
the fuel reached the
pre-determined level, the
needle valve begins to close
due to the lever action of the
float arm rising as the float
attains buoyancy, thus
shutting off the supply of
The fuel lever in the bowl
controls the amount of fuel
which is metered to make
the optimum fuel mixture.
For example, too high a level
allows more fuel than
necessary to leave the
needle jet enriching the
mixture. Too low a level
results in a leaner mixture,
as not enough fuel leaves
the needle jet. Therefore, the
pre-determined fuel level
should not be changed
Enrichment System (Fig.
In place of the choke the
enrichment system is employed
for Mikuni carburetors. Fuel and
air for starting the engine are
metered by entirely independent
jets. the fuel metered by the
starter jet (17) is mixed with air
and is broken into tiny particles in
the emulsion tube (18). The
mixture ten flows into the plunger
area (19), mixes again with air
coming from the air intake port
for starting and is delivered to the
engine in the optimum air-fuel
ratio through the fuel discharge
passage (21). The enrichment
valve is opened and closed by
means of the starter plunger (22).
Since the enrichment type is
constructed so as to utilize the
vacuum of the inlet passage (20),
it is important that the throttle
valve is closed, when starting the
engine. At temperatures above
60°F, the enrichment lever.
A carburetor consists of various precision-machined parts such as jets, needles, valves,
etc. Therefore, care should be exercised, when removing jets or disassembling the
carburetor for cleaning.
1. Proper tools should be used for disassembling and reassembling of jets. Handle
each part carefully to avoid scratches, bending, etc. Wash the jets and the
carburetor properly in solvent and blow them out with
compressed air. For carburetors whose main jet can be replaced from the outside,
an "O" ring is used to prevent leakage of fuel. When you fit the "O" ring, apply a
little lubricator fuel to the "O" ring. It is important to maintain the fuel level in the
carburetor. Do not touch the float arm when disassembling the carburetor. If the
float arm is bent accidentally, adjust the height of rib to the specified measurement
(refer to Fig.. 18).
When the carburetor setting is not correct or out of tune various irregularities in engine
performance are noticeable. These irregularities can be traced to two basic causes:
When air-fuel mixture is too rich:
a) The engine noise is dull and intermittent.
b) Engine performance grows worse when the enrichment valve is opened.
c) Engine performance grows worse when it gets hot.
d) Removal of the air cleaner improves engine performance somewhat.
e) The exhaust gases are heavy.
f) The spark plug is fouled (black wet deposit around electrode). When air-fuel
mixture is too lean:
a) The engine overheats.
b) The performance improves when the starter (choke) is opened.
c) Acceleration is poor.
d) Spark plug burns (blistered white insulator)
e) The revolutions of the engine fluctuates and a noticeable lack of power.
Figure 5
Chapter 5 (Mikuni Carburetors)
Carburetor Troubleshooting Chart
Incorrect use of choke
Correct use of choke
Set mixture adjustment
Incorrect air-fuel mixture
screw in accordance
with Owner's Manual or
shop manual
Clogged fuel filter.
Clean filter.
Clogged low speed fuel
Disassemble carburetor
chemically clean.
Clogged vent in fuel
tank cap.
Unclog vent or replace
Float stuck. .
Remove float bowl,
check float operation
and correct or replace
Float damaged or
Replace float.
Incorrect float level.
Set float height in
accordance with shop
manual specifications.
Intake air leak.
Check carburetor
mounting flanges for air
Ignition problem.
Repair, replace or
adjust asecessary.
Low cylinder
Repair, replace or
adjust as necessary
Adjust idle rpm in
Idle speed adjustment(s)
accordance with
set too low.
specifications in
Owner's Manual or
shop manual.
Idle speed adjustments
are unequal Equalize
throttle stop settings.
(twin carburetor models
and multi-carburetor
models using individual
throttle stop
Equalize throttle stop
Clogged idle and low
speed air bleed.
Disassemble carburetor
and chemically clean
All causes listed under
Idle speed set too high.
Adjust idle speed in
accordance with
specifications in
Owner's Manual or
shop manual.
Clogged low speed airbleeds.
Disassemble carburetor
and chemically clean.
Damaged mixture
adjustment needle. .
Replace mixture
adjustment needle
Mixture adjustment
needle "O" ring is not
sealing (models using
"O" ring).
Replace "O" ring.
Damaged mixture
adjustments needle
Replace carburetor.
All carburetor problems
listed under "HARD
Idle speed set too high.
Adjust idle speed in
accordance with
specifications in
Owner's Manual or
shop manual.
Idle speed adjustments
are unequal (twin
carburetor models and
multi-carburetor models
using individual throttle
stop adjustments.)
Throttle valve sticking.
Equalize throttle stop
Clean and inspect
throttle valve and return
spring. Replace if
Throttle linkage sticking. Clean and inspect
throttle linkage and
return spring. Lubricate,
repair or replace as
Throttle cable binding
Correct routing or
replace cable as
Low speed - Low speed
Incorrect air fuel mixture jet size change.
Intermediate - jet
needle height
adjustment. High speed
- Main jet size change.
Incorrect use of choke.
Clogged air cleaner.
Correct use of choke.
Clean or replace.
Low speed - Low speed
Incorrect air-fuel mixture
jet size change.
Intermediate - jet
needle height
High speed - Main jet
size change.
Throttle valves not
synchronized (models
with two or more
carburetor s)
Adjust throttle valve
Clogged fuel filter.
Clean filter.
Clogged fuel jets.
Disassemble carburetor
and chemically clean.
Clogged air bleeds.
Disassemble carburetor
and chemically clean.
Fuel jets loose.
Tighten fuel jets.
Fuel jets "O" rings
leaking (models using
"O" rings)
Float stuck
Float damaged or
Incorrect float level.
Ignition problem.
Replace "O" rings
Remove float bowl,
check float operation
and correct or replace.
Replace float.
Set float height in
accordance with shop
manual specifications.
Repair, replace or
adjust as necessary.
NOTE: It may be necessary to change carburetor jets to correct the air-fuel mixture
rations under the following circumstances: -Exhaust system modifications
-Air cleaner alteration or removal
-Altitude changes
-Temperature and humidity changes
Chapter 6
Power Transmission
The power transmission of the motorcycle is comprised of the
clutch, gearbox, propeller shaft and the final drive.
The clutch (Fig. 13) relays torque from the engine to the gearbox,
disengage the engine from the gearbox during shifting of the gears
and during braking to a stop. The clutch provides for smooth
starting of the motorcycle from rest, protects the power
transmission parts against damage when the engine speed or
drive wheel speed is suddenly changed. The clutch is of dry
double-disk design.
Figure 13. Clutch
1 - Release rod
6 - Slider
11 - Primary shaft 16 - Flywheel
2 - Rod seal
7 - Adjusting
3 - Rod tip
8 - Clutch release 13 - Intermediate
driving plate
18 - Driven plate
4 - Thrust ball
9 - Lever axle
14 - Driven plate
19 - Spring
5 - Slider seal
10 - Clutch
primary shaft
15 - Pressure
12- Thrust plate
17 - Seal
The clutch release mechanism is controlled by means of the lever
on the left grip of the handle bar. With the clutch lever released,
the engine is engaged to the gearbox. When the clutch lever is
squeezed, the engine is disengaged from the gearbox.
Use the clutch lever for starting from rest, for gear shifting
and to downshift, for added braking of the motorcycle. Under
conditions of heavy traffic, when gears frequently have to be
shifted, do not to slip the clutch too much, as this will cause heavy
wear of the disks. When stopped for any length of time (e.g., a
traffic light), it is best to shift into neutral and release the clutch
lever. Holding the clutch in for long periods will cause excessive
heating and wear.
Clutch adjustment. The clutch control lever (located on the
handle bar) should have a 5 - 8 mm/0.2 - 0.3 in play. This play is
measured at the lever end. The normal play of the lever ensures
full engagement and disengagement of the clutch. If the play is
smaller than specified, the clutch slips. With excessive play, the
clutch drags, i.e. the disengagement is incomplete. Use two
adjusting screws (Fig. 13, #7) on the clutch control cable to adjust
the play.
Chapter 6 (Power Transmission)
Gearbox with Reverse Gear
The principal parts of the gearbox are the split box with covers, clutch
shaft and main shaft with gears and shift sleeves, the gear shift
mechanism, the kick starter and the reverse gear engagement
Shafts. The clutch shaft is installed in the ball and roller bearings. The
shaft is made integral with the gear rims of the I, II and III gears. The
gear of the IV gear is set on a segment key.
The main shaft is set on two ball bearings. The pinions of the I, II, III
and IV gears rotate freely over the splines outer surface. Two sleeves
are set on the splines of the main shaft, the gears are connected with
the shaft by means of the gear shift sleeve. Involute teeth are
threaded on the outer surface of the engagement sleeve of the I and II
gears. The gears are lubricated through labyrinth cavities in the
casing, axial and radial bores in the shaft.
The gear of the kick starter has an additional small rim.
The intermediate gear is installed on the neck of the bracket which
travels in the longitudinal direction of the shaft.
Bronze bushings are pressed into the gear holes of the kick starter,
intermediate and I gear of the main shaft.
The kick starter (Fig. 15) consists of shaft (Fig. 15, #4) with pawl (Fig.
15, #7), the kick lever with the pedal, return spring (Fig. 15, #1) and
kick starter gear (Fig. 15, #3). The shaft is supported by the bushings
provided in the gearbox casing.
The gear shift mechanism is shown in Fig. 16. The gear shifting is
performed in a definite succession. The lower gears are engaged by
depression of the pedal front arm, while the higher gears, by
depression of the pedal rear arm.
The reverse gear engagement mechanism consists of quadrant
(Fig. 16, #10) with a shaft and reverse gear engagement lever (Fig.
16, #9) secured on it, and intermediate gear set on the bracket, having
longitudinal travel along the shaft from the reverse gear engagement
Figure 14 Development of Shafts (with reverse run
1 - Gear IV of clutch shaft 12 - Gear IV of main shaft
23 - Kick lever 28 - Driven
gear to speedometer
2 - Clutch shaft bearing
13 - Main shaft sleeve
24 - Kick starter shaft
3 - Clutch shaft seal
14 - Gearbox case
25 - Intermediate gear
4 - Clutch shaft
15 - Gear III of secondary shaft 26 - Gear of main shaft I gear
5 - Clutch release rod
16- Kick start shaft busing
27 - Main shaft bearing
6 - Clutch shaft sleeve
17 - Gear II of main shaft
28 - Driven speedometer gear
7 - Packing ring
18 - Engagement sleeve of I &
29 - Main Shaft seat 1
II gears
8 - Front gearing cover
19 - Intermediate gear bracket
30 - Main shaft
9 - Main shaft bearing
20 - Kick starter spring
3l - Flexible disk of propeller
shaft sleeve
10 - Engagement sleeve
of III & IV gears
21 - Kick starter gear cluster
32 - Clutch shaft roller
11 - Oil washer of main
22 - Kick starter shaft seal
1 - Return
2 - Kick
3 - Kick
4 - Kick
5 - Pawl
6 - Spring
7 - Pawl
8 - Pawl
9 - Pawl
10 - Kick
11 Buffer
a - Pawl
b - Pawl
When the reverse gear is engaged, the intermediate gear travels
with the bracket along the shaft and connects the small rim of the
starting gear with the rim of the sleeve engaging the I and II gears
on the main shaft.
The reverse gear must be engaged from neutral.
When the right-hand lever is turned to one third of its travel the
gear shift mechanism is set to neutral position. The bracket with
an intermediate gear will not move, and the gear is set in neutral
position. When the reverse gear engagement quadrant is turned
further, the bracket with an intermediate gear travels along the
shaft, the reverse gear is engaged, and simultaneously the gear
shift quadrant is blocked, thus possibility of simultaneous
engagement of two gears is excluded.
When the reverse gear engagement lever is returned to its initial
position, the gear shift mechanism is set into the neutral position.
Figure 16 . Schematics of Gear Shift Adjustment
1 - Pedal
2 - Pawl with tenon
3 - Return spring
4 - Ratchet
5 - Pawl crank with spring
6 - Lock ring
7 - Quadrant shaft spring
8 - Quadrant spring
9 - Reverse gear engagement
10 - Reverse gear
11 - Gear shift quadrant
12 - Intermediate gear bracket
13 - Fork shaft
14 - Shaft fork of III and IV
15 - Shaft fork of I and II gears
16 - Pawl crank lever fastening
17 - Pawl crank lever
18 - Bushing
19 - Seal
20 - End of quadrant shaft
Chapter 6 (Power Transmission)
Adjustment of Gear Shift Mechanism
All gearboxes are thoroughly adjusted at URAL America's
warehouse prior to shipment to the dealer. The URAL gearbox,
once properly adjusted, should last a lifetime with no further
adjustments necessary, as the adjusting screws have been
"loctited" into proper position. If you experience problems with the
gearbox, it usually means some internal problem (like a broken
tooth, for example), rather than misadjustment. In case of a
problem, we encourage you to contact your dealer for their
consultation, instead of readjusting the gearbox, which may only
complicate the existing problem.
If you still feel that you need to make a gearbox adjustment,
please follow the procedures below.
Figure 17 Schematics of Gear Shift Adjustment Mechanism
1. Put your URAL motorcycle on the central stand, make sure it's
in neutral.
2. Position the locknuts on both adjusting screws so approximately
3 grooves of the screws
show up over both locknuts' top.
3. Screw the adjusting screws into the case until the locknuts
touch the case.
4. Remove the black plastic cap located on the right side of the
gearbox above the reverse gear lever.
5. Place a 10 mm wrench over the nut located under the removed
plastic cap. Move the wrench forward, 2nd gear is the first "click"
you hear.
6. Position your body as follows: use your left foot to press the
gearshift pedal hold the 10 mm wrench positioned as described in
Number 5 by your left hand, every time you make shifts between
the gears by pressing the gearshift pedal, rock the rear wheel
back and forth with your right hand, to make sure it rotates freely
and the gears
do not get stuck
. 7. Press the rear of the shift pedal (by doing this you shift to 3rd
gear). Your hand holding the wrench should feel the "click". Keep
pressing the pedal after you feel this "click" and if the wrench
moves further after the "click", use your right arm to screw the
lower adjusting screw slightly in. After doing this, move the
wrench back to 2nd gear position and repeat the above test. Keep
testing and making adjustments by screwing the lower screw in
until the wrench stops moving further after the "click" is felt.
If you feel no "click" at all you should screw out the lower
adjusting screw, still pressing the rear of the pedal shift until you
feel a definite "click".
Now your URAL is in 3rd gear.
8. Press the front of the shift pedal (by doing this you shift down
from 3rd to 2nd gear). Your hand holding the wrench should feel
the "click". Keep pressing the pedal after you feel this "click" and
if the wrench moves further after the "click" - use your right arm to
screw the upper adjusting
screw slightly in. After doing this, move the wrench forward to 3rd
gear position and repeat the above test. Keep testing and making
adjustments by screwing the upper screw in until the wrench stops
moving further after the "click" is felt.
If you felt no "click" at all, you should screw out the upper
adjusting screw, still pressing the front of the pedal shift until you
feel a definite "click".
9. Now your URAL gearbox is adjusted. You may want to repeat
number 6 and 8 procedures again to double check that the wrench
stops immediately after the "click" is felt. After adjustments, tighten
the locknuts on both adjusting screws and put the plastic cap back
over the nut as described in number 5.
Chapter 6 (Power Transmission)
Gearbox (Solo Motorcycle)
The gearbox is of the four speed design equipped with constant
meshed gears and gear-shift sliding sleeves. The principal parts
included in the gearbox (Fig. 18) are the split box with covers, the
clutch shaft and main shaft with gears and shift sleeves, the gear
shift mechanism and the kick starter.
Figure 18. Solo Gearbox (section through shafts)
1 - Starter spring
11 - Oil washer of main
21 - Gear shift quadrant
2 - Gear IV of clutch
12 - Gear IV of main
22 - Gear I of main shaft
3 - Clutch shaft ball
13 - Clutch crankcase
23 - Right hand cover of gear
4 - Clutch shaft seal
14 - Main shaft sleeve
24 - Hand gear change lever
5 - Clutch shaft sleeve
15 - Gar shaft sleeve
25 - Speedometer driven
6 - Clutch shaft
16 - Gear III and IV shift
26 - Main shaft seal
7 - Clutch release rod
17 - Hole for oil feed to
27 - Driving plate of flexible
coupling of propeller shaft
8 - Main shaft ball bearing
18 - Gear III of main
28 - Main shaft nut
9 - Main shaft
19 - Gears I and II shaft
29 - Clutch release slider
10 - Front bearing cap
20 - Gear II of main shaft 30 - Slider seal
The kick starter (Fig. 19) consists of shaft (Fig. 19, #4) with pawl (Fig. 19, #7) secured thereon,
the kick lever with the pedal, return spring 1 and kick starter gear (Fig. 19, #3). The shaft is
supported by the bushings provided in the gearbox.
Figure 19. Kick Starter
1 - Return spring
2 - Kick starter shaft bushing
3 - Kick starter gear
4 - Kick starter shaft
5 - Pawl spring
6 - Spring pin
7 - Pawl
8 - Pawl axle
9 - Pawl release
10 - Kick starter buffer pin
11 - Buffer plug
A - Pawl engaged
B - Pawl disengaged
Figure 20. Gear Shift Mechanism
1 - Gear shift pedal
2 - Pawl with tenon
3 - Return spring
4 - Ratchel
5 - Pawl crank with
6 - Lock ring
7 - Quadrant shaft
8 - Gear shaft
9 - Hand gear change
10 - Quadrant lock
11 - Gear change
fork shaft
12 - Shift fork of III
and IV gears
13 - Shaft fork of I
and II gears
14 - Nut
15 - Pawl crank lever
16 - Sleeve
The gear shift mechanism is illustrated in Fig. 20.
The hand shift lever, located on the right side of the transmission,
may be in five different positions. The I gear is engaged when the
gear change lever is pulled back as far as possible, while by
pushing the lever forth, the II, III and IV gears are engaged one
after another. The neutral position (idling) is obtained by setting
the lever between the I and II gears. The hand lever assures not
only shifting of the gears in succession, but also in any versions,
for instance, from the lowest gear directly to the highest one and
vice versa. The main application of the lever, however, is to set
the gearbox sleeves into the neutral position.
The gear shift pedal is used to change gears in a definite
succession. The lower gears are engaged by depressing the front
arm of the pedal, while the rear arm of the pedal is depressed for
higher gears.
Adjustment of gear shift mechanism. Adjust the gear shift
mechanism by means of stops (adjusting screws) which restrict
the turn of the pawl crank (Fig 21), and consequently, the stroke of
the gear shift pedal.
The process of adjusting the shift quadrants is identical to that
described earlier in this chapter for the gearbox with reverse gear.
Gearbox maintenance. During everyday preventive inspection,
check the bolts for tightness and the nuts for fastening the
Figure 21. Schematics of Gear shift Adjustments
* The gearbox may incorporate parts normally used in the reverse gear gearbox.
Every 500 km check oil level in the gearbox and fill to required
Every 10,000 km change oil in the gearbox. Remove the filler and
the drain plugs and drain oil. Replace the drain plug and fill the
gearbox with 400 cm³/0.4 qt, minimum, of the oil used for the
engine; next start the engine, install the motorcycle onto the stand,
shift in the III or IV gears for 2 or 3 min. Then drain the oil and fill
the gearbox with 19.5 oz. of fresh oil and 12 oz. of URAL Oil
Treatment. In winter fill the gearbox with warm oil.
CAUTION: Severe damage due to insufficient lubrication of
gears, shafts and bearings can result if the oil level is allowed
to get lower than the specified level.
Chapter 6 (Power Transmission)
Final Drive
The final drive is devised as a pair of helical bevel gears housed in
a casing which serves at the same time as a plate for the brake
shoes, as an oil tank and a support for the right-hand end of the
rear wheel axle. The casing has an oil drain hole at the bottom
that is blanked off with a plug. Cover (Fig. 22, #34) attached to the
casing has a slot and two studs used to fasten the whole drive to
the swinging fork arm of the rear suspension. A hole is provided in
the cover for filling of oil.
Installed between the side portion of casing cover and the inner
race of ball bearing (Fig. 22, #36) is adjusting washer (Fig. 22,
#35) for adjusting the backlash between the gear teeth. For proper
performance of the drive a 0.1 to 0.3 mm / 0.004 to .012 in.
backlash is necessary between the active faces of gears.
CAUTION: Bearing nut (Fig. 22, #31) is left hand threaded.
Maintenance of propeller shaft and final drive. The daily
maintenance involves tightening the nuts which fasten the final
drive to the swinging fork arm. Failure to tighten the nuts in due
time results in loose joints and destruction of the final drive cover.
Every 5,000 km change oil in the final drive casing. For this
purpose undo the filler and drain plugs and drain used oil. Fill the
casing with oil used for lubrication of the engine and flush the final
drive by turning the rear wheel several times. Drain oil and prime
the casing with 3.85 oz.of premium grade automotive 80/90w
Gearlube. Add friction reducing additive of choice.
Every 10,000 km, lubricate the needle bearings of the universal
joint cross. Dismantle the final drive and, using a grease gun, stuff
grease into the cross through the grease cup.
Chapter 6 (Power Transmission)
The propeller shaft drive (Fig. 22) incorporates the flexible joint,
the propeller shaft and the universal joint. The flexible joint is
essentially a coupling sleeve fitted with plates and pins. Propeller
shaft (Item 23) is aligned by means of the ball end of the main
shaft which enters the socket in the front end of the propeller
1 - Driven gear
fastening bolt
13 - Oil drain duct
25 - Hood
2 - Driven gear rim
14 - Needle bearing
26 - Propeller shaft
3 - Gasket
15 - Double-row ball
27 - Flexible joint driven
4 - Crankcase bushing
16 - Adjusting washer
28 - Packing ring
5 - Needle bearing roller
17 - Universal joint fork
29 - Needle bearing
6 - Casing seal
18 - Protective washer
30 - Wedge belt
7 - Seal cover
19 - Universal joint splined
31 - Bearing nut
8 - Rear wheel axle
20 - Lock ring
32 - Gasket
9 - Seal spring
21 - Universal joint cross
33 - Driving gear
10 - Distance bushing
22 - Grease cup
34 - Casing cover
11 - Casing
23 - Propeller shaft
35 - Adjusting washer
12 - Driven gear hub
24 - Lock ring
36 - Ball bearing
Chapter 7
Running Gear
The running gear of the motorcycle is comprised of the motorcycle
and the sidecar frames, front fork, rear wheel and the sidecar
wheel suspension, wheels and the seat.
Figure 23. Motorcycle and Sidecar Frames
1 - Rear suspension swinging
10 - Collet clamp
20 - Lever - sidecar wheel
2 - Rear mud shield
11 - Collet clamp screw
21 - Brake tie rod
3 - Rear grab bar
12 - Motorcycle stand
22 - Brake drum cover
4 - Spring loaded hydraulic
shock absorber
13 - Brake pedal
23 - Sidecar wheel axle
5 - Seat (Saddle or Tractor)
14 - Sidecar wheel brake
24 - Protective hood
6 - Strap
15 - Sidecar frame legs
7 - Motorcyclel frame
16 - Sidecar wheel brake rod 26 - Sidecar fender
8 - Sidecar adjusting strut
17 - Rear collet clamp
9 - Sidecar frame legs 19 - Lever 18 - Rear bracket fastening
19 - Lever pins
25 - Tie rod nut
27 - Rubber member of
body suspension
28 - Parking brake
Chapter 7 (Running Gear)
Motorcycle and Sidecar Frames
The frame is the principal bearing element of the motorcycle to
which all the units and assemblies of the motorcycle are attached.
The motorcycle is furnished with a twin closed frame of welded
construction. For the design features and principal members of the
motorcycle and the sidecar frames refer to Fig. 23.
The frame of the solo motorcycle differs from that shown in Fig. 23
in the absence of the sidecar fasteners and the parking brake
mechanism, availability of the side leg and welded on brackets for
fastening of the air pump.
The sidecar frame is coupled to the motorcycle frame through
collet clamp (Fig. 23, #10) and rear collet clamp bracket (Fig. 23,
#17) and two frame legs (Fig. 23, #9) and (Fig. 23, #15). The
brackets welded to the frame at the rear are used for mounting the
rubber members of the body suspension. The swinging arms are
connected to the frames by means of silent blocks. The vertical
stresses arising due to road bumps are cushioned by the spring
loaded hydraulic shock absorbers. The hinge joints of the shock
absorbers with the swinging arms and the frame are mounted on
rubber bushings.
Chapter 7 (Running Gear)
Spring Loaded Hydraulic Shock
The suspension spring and the hydraulic shock absorber (Fig. 24)
perform different functions. The supporting spring (Fig. 24, #4)
serves as an elastic element of the suspension, while its
oscillations are damped by the double-acting hydraulic absorber
enclosed in body (Fig. 24, #7) inside the suspension spring (Fig.
24, #4).
The suspension features cam-type adjusters (Items 11 and 12)
used for varying the pretension of the supporting springs to suit
the load and the road condition. The degree of tension of the
springs is adjustable allowing two positions. The first (lower)
position corresponds to the load due to the motorcycle's own
mass, the driver's and one passenger's (sitting in the sidecar)
mass; the second (upper) position of moving cam (Fig. 24, #11)
corresponds to the maximum load.
When the motorcycle is used under the maximum load, adjusting
the spring in the sidecar
wheel shock absorber simultaneously with adjusting the
compression of the spring in the motorcycle shock absorbers.
Care of shock absorbers. Fill the shock absorber with 105 cm³ of
hydraulic fluid composed of industrial oil or spindle oil. Change
hydraulic fluid every 10,000 km. Each time during maintenance,
check the bolts fixing the top and bottom ends of the shock
absorbers for tightness.
Figure 24. Spring-Loaded Hydraulic Shock Absorber
1 - Upper tip
12 - Fixed cam
23 - Compression valve
2 - Retainer
13 - Lower end piece .
24 - Compression valve
3 - Housing
14 - Compression valve body
25 - Piston
4 - Spring
15 - Rebound valve nut
26 - Rod guide
5 - Buffer
16 - Rebound valve spring
27 - Seal spring
6 - Barrel nut
17 - Rebound valve retainer
28 - Container nut seal
7 - Shock absorber body 18 - Rebound valve plate
29 - Seal holder
8 - Working cylinder
19 - Rebound valve throttle
30 - Seal
9 - Rod
20 - Intake valve plate
31 - Rubber seal of rod
10 - Check ring
21 - Bypass valve spring
32 - Felt seal of rod
11 - Moving cam
22 - Bypass valve retainer
33 - Pressure washer
Chapter 7 (Running Gear)
Adjustment of Sidecar Installation
(Single Wheel & Dual Wheel Drive)
Note: Sportsman (driven sidecar wheel model)
should be set-up with no toe-in and 1° or less lean
The sidecar should be
installed in a definite position
relative to the motorcycle.
The position is determined by
the camber and toe-in of the
motorcycle and the sidecar
wheels (Fig. 25). An
incorrectly aligned sidecar will
drag the motorcycle to either
side and cause extensive tire
wear. If the motorcycle is not
stable on the road or is
difficult to steer, check
alignment. Checking and
measuring the alignment
should be carried out on level
Check toe-in of the
motorcycle and the sidecar
wheels with the aid of two
straight bars applied to the
side faces of the wheels just
below the axles. The toe-in
should be 10 mm or 3/8 in. at
the front wheel. When
adjusting, unbolt the top of
the slanting legs fastening the
sidecar to the motorcycle,
slacken off the bolt clamping
the lower rear bracket, adjust
the position of the bracket
relative to the rear tube of the
sidecar frame to obtain
necessary toe-in of the
wheels. Tighten up the bolt
fastening the bracket, adjust
the length of the legs and
secure them with bolts.
Check the lean-out of the
motorcycle using a level
gauge or protractor with a
plump bob and a ruler. Adjust
the two inclined legs by
screwing the forks in or out
Check the lean-out angle while the motorcycle is running
on the road. With the lean-out properly adjusted, the
motorcycle will not pull to either side while running at
normal road speed. If it pulls to the right, increase the
lean-out to 2° or 3°. If it pulls to the left, decrease the
CAUTION: Double check for correct toe-in before
making any change to lean-out.
Chapter 7 (Running Gear)
Front Fork
The telescopic front fork used on the Solo, Cruiser, and Utility
models is equipped with inside springs and the double-acting
hydraulic shock absorber.
The front fork (Fig. 26) is made up of stem (Fig. 26, #8), the
steering column with bridge (Fig. 26, #16), cross-piece (Fig. 26,
#3), two fork legs with shock absorbers and the steering damper.
Each fork leg is primed with 135 cm³/0.3 pt of oil through the holes
of tightening nuts (Fig. 26, #11).
In assembling the front fork it is important to ensure a 0.2 - 0.5
mm/.008 - .020 in clearance between the spring tip and the
locknut of the nut tightening the fork leg tube so as to ensure free
rotation of the tightening nut with the stem.
The leading link front fork used on the Tourist and Sportsman
models use a front lever-type fork with two interchangeable
spring-hydraulic shock absorbers (Fig. 27).
The friction type steering damper is made up of two steel
washers, moving (Fig. 27, #37) and fixed (Fig. 27, #39), two fiber
washers (Fig. 27, #17) and tightening bolt (Fig. 27, #7) with a
head. Friction between the steel and the fiber washers makes
turning of the front fork more difficult.
WARNING: Do not over tighten the steering damper
(especially on the Solo model) since the motorcycle will
become very difficult to handle.
Chapter 7 (Running Gear)
Steering Head Bearings
The steering head bearings must be adjusted periodically to avoid
excessive play which might cause steering instability. When
properly adjusted the front fork should turn with just a hint of
bearing drag, but not free play or obvious resistance to turning.
WARNING: Improper adjustment of the steering head (e.g. too
tight) will make the motorcycle very difficult to steer. This
adjustment is critical for proper handling of all models.
Figure 26. Front Fork
1 - Safety washer
2 - Seal
3 - Fork cross piece
4 - Steering column stem
5 - Supporting washer
6 - Spring washer
7 - Tightening bolt
8 - Steering column stem
9 - Bearing nut
10 - Top angular ball
11 - Tightening nut
12 - Top end of spring
13 - Packing ring of cover
14 - Fork leg cover with
headlight bracket
15 - Union bolt
16 - Steering column
17 - Friction washers
18 - Spring
19 - Collar
20 - Seal collar
21 - Seal spring
22 - Supporting ring
23 - Upper bushing
24 - Fork leg tube
25 - Fork leg tip
26 - Pin
27 - Damper body tube
28 - Damper body cone
29 - Damper fastening
30 - Lower bushing
31 - Lower guide of
32 - Damper piston
33 - Spring ring
34 - Damper rod
35 - Damper tube nut
36 - Rubber seal
37 - Moving washer
38 - Bottom angular ball
39 - Fixed washer of
steering damper
40 - Head tube of frame
A - Cavity under piston
B - Cavity above piston
To adjust the bearings:
1. Jack up the motorcycle front so that the front wheel does not
contact the ground.
2. Undo the tightening bolt of the steering damper, remove the
spring and the supporting washers, holding the damper washers
by hand.
3. While rocking the front fork up and down with the handle bar or
with the fork leg tips, determine if there is any play.
If play in bearings is evident, unlock and slacken off nut (Fig. 27,
#4) of the steering column stem, move up cross-piece (Fig. 27, #3)
with the nut, having first released tightening nuts (Fig. 27, #11) of
the fork legs. Tighten bearing nut (Fig. 27, #9) and release it 1/8 1/6 of revolution. Check the play in the bearings once again. The
front fork must freely turn.
Reinstall the cross piece, tighten the nuts including lock nut (Fig.
27, #4) and reinstall all other parts of the steering damper and
check once again that bearing clearance is now acceptable.
Figure 27. Lever-Type Front Fork
1 - Protective washer
9 - Bearing nut
17 - Fork leg left tube
2 - Seal
10 - Upper radial-thrust ball
18 - Spring-hydraulic shock
3 - Fork crosspiece
11 - Tightening nut
19 - Brake drum cover tie rod
4 - Nut of steering column stem 12 - Washer
20 - Wheel lever
5 - Supporting washer
13 - Leg housing with headlight 21 - Moving washer
6 - Spring washer bracket
14 - Steering column bridge
22 - Steering column bridge
7 - Clamping bolt
15 - Fender clip
23 - Lower radial-thrust ball
8 - Steering column stem
16 - Front fender bearing
Chapter 8
Wheels and Tires
The URAL motorcycle is equipped with easily demountable
interchangeable wheels with the cast (aluminum) brake drum on
short spokes of the same size. Inner splines provided at the
right-hand side of the hub receive the splined end of the final drive
hub in case the wheel is used as a drive wheel. The bearings are
packed with grease (refer to lubricant chart).
Pneumatic tires are made up of a straight-side casing, an inner
tube and a flap.
To prevent sinking of nipples while the tire is being inflated, it is
advisable to use a threaded pipe union of an air pump hose. The
tire flap is arranged between the wheel rim and the inner tube to
protect the latter against mechanical damages inflicted by
protruding spoke ends and nipples.
Care should be taken to keep tires properly inflated. See TIRE
DATA (chapter 13), for correct cold tire inflation pressures. Check
before riding when tires are cold. Do not over-inflate tires.
WARNING: Improper tire inflation will cause abnormal tread
wear and could result in unstable handling. Under-inflation
could result in the tire slipping on the rim.
Check inflation pressure and inspect tread for punctures, cuts,
breaks, etc., at least weekly if in daily use or before each trip, if
used occasionally.
WARNING: Riding with excessively worn, unbalanced or
improperly inflated tires is hazardous and will adversely
affect traction, steering and handling. Same as original
equipment tires must be used. Other tires may not fit
correctly and may be hazardous to use.
Because tires, tubes and wheels are critical safety items and
servicing of these items requires special tools and skills, we
recommend you see your URAL dealer for these services.
Figure 29.
1 - Tire
2 - Tire flap
3 - Spokes
4 - Brake drum
5 - Roller bearings
6 - Thrust washer
7 - Right-hand distance
8 - Intermediate
9 - Left-hand distance
10 - Seal
11 - Seal nut
12 - Locknut
13 - Hub
14 - Wheel rim
Adjustment of wheel bearings. After 5,000 km be sure to check
the condition and adjustment of the bearings. In adjusting adhere
to the following sequence:
Remove the wheel from the motorcycle. Fit the rear wheel
axle (less the protective hood), tighten it by nut with the aid
of a bushing, 100 mm long, with 21 mm bore and 25 - 30
mm O. D. or a set of bushings of the given size. Determine
whether there is play by turning the axle (but not the wheel
on the axle) and rocking it. Slacken off the locknut. Screw
the seal nut up to the limit, then loosen it by 1/6 - 1/8 of the
revolution so that the axle-bushing system revolves without
play, easily, without jamming. Draw up the locknut safely
without disturbing the adjustment of the bearings. Pull the
axle out. Reinstall the wheel on the motorcycle.
Removing wheels. To remove the front wheel, set the motorcycle
on its stand, lift it by the front wheel and put a rest under the front
portion of the motorcycle frame. (You may want to purchase a
scissor jack or bottle jack to carry along in the sidecar storage
compartment. This will make it easier to change any of the three
wheels on the rig.) Turn home the adjusting screw of the front
brake cable and install it so that the screw slot falls onto that of the
bracket head. Pull the brake lever up, take the cable enclosure
end out of the notch in the adjusting screw and extract the cable
through the slots of the screw and the bracket. Bring the hand
brake cable end out of the hole in the brake lever making the
cable match the lever slot. Slacken the nut of the union bolt at the
end-piece base of the fork left-hand leg. Screw out the axle turning
it clockwise (left-hand thread) and remove the wheel together with
the front brake.
To reinstall the front wheel on the motorcycle follow the reverse
order of the above operations seeing to it that the torque stop on
the brake cover encompasses the right-hand leg of the fork.
Before final tightening of the axle bolt shake the motorcycle front
several times to allow the forks to align themselves.
To remove the rear wheel of the motorcycle, lift the center stand
onto an 8" long piece of 1" x 4" wood or equivalent, undo the rear
wheel axle nut and take it off together with the washer, slacken off
the nut on the union bolt of the left-hand leg of the swinging arm,
extract the rear wheel axle with the help of a wrench bar and
remove the wheel. If the rear wheel is flat, it is easier to first run
the rear wheel onto a piece of 2" x 4" wood before lifting the
motorcycle on the center stand on top of another piece of 2" x 4".
To reinstall the wheel on the motorcycle follow the reverse order of
operations. Prior to reassembling, wipe the axle and grease it.
Fitting the rear axle, turn it as you push it in to avoid jamming.
Before tightening the axle bolt, bounce the rear portion of the
motorcycle several times.
To remove the spare wheel, use the wrench from the tool kit that
has two studs that fit the two holes in the round nut holding the
luggage rack down.
Chapter 8 (Wheels and Tires)
Running Gear Maintenance
During the pre-trip inspection, check air pressure in the tires
(chapter 1).
Check assembly units and parts for safe fastening, be sure to
tighten the fasteners and eliminate play as soon as they get loose
or demonstrate excessive play.
While lubricating, consult the Lubrication Chart in chapter 11.
After the initial 200 km, check and retighten the nipples of the
wheel spokes. In service, check periodically, but at least every
2,500 km, the tension and condition of the wheel spokes (do this
with wheels jacked up).
Every 5,000 km: check the condition of the motorcycle, toe-in of
the sidecar, the lean-out angle of the motorcycle and adjust the
wheel bearings, if necessary; rotate the wheels (including the
spare) proceeding in clockwise direction to keep tread wear even
on all tires.
Every 10,000 km, check and change, if required, grease in the
bearings of the wheel hubs and adjust them.
WARNING: Wheel truing involving more than 2 turns of any
spoke nipple should be accomplished with the tire
dismantled so that spoke ends can be checked to ensure no
spokes protrude into the inner tube.
Chapter 9
Control Levers and Cables
Handle Bar and Controls
The handle bar is mounted on the front fork through two brackets
secured on the cross-piece of the front fork. The handle bar is
adjustable in the brackets.
The throttle control twist grip is linked to the carburetor throttles by
flexible control cables. The clutch lever is linked to the clutch
release arm by a cable. The front brake lever is connected by the
cable to the lever mounted on the front brake drum cover.
The motorcycle is equipped with shoe-type brakes. The brake
consists of a drum, a drum cover, shoes and lever activated cams.
The front wheel brake (Fig. 30) is of the double-cam type.
Tie rod (Fig. 30, #11) of the upper and lower levers of the brake is
factory-adjusted to length so the brake cams are equalized. To
return the levers to their initial position, a spring (Fig. 30, #9) is
installed on the bottom lever.
The brake shoes are provided with adjusting bolts (Fig. 30, #5) to
compensate for the wear of the shoe linings. The adjusting bolts of
the brake shoes may be used for adjusting the gap between the
brake shoes and the brake drum.
For normal performance of the brake, leave a gap between the
shoes and the drum. If there is no gap, the brakes will overheat
during the motorcycle run bringing about rapid wear of the linings,
or, if they are too tight, seize the wheel. On the other hand, if the
gap is too large, the brake cannot be fully applied.
For checking the gap the cover of the brake drum and final drive
crankcase are provided with an inspection hole, closed with a
rubber plug.
The sidecar wheel brake is connected to the rear brake pedal
(Fig. 31).
The sidecar brake drum cover is secured on the sidecar wheel
axle and is held from rotation by a torque stop. Sidecar brake
shoes are interchangeable with the motorcycle brake shoes.
The rear wheel brake is mounted in the final drive case.
Figure 30. Fron
Wheel Brake
1 - Top brake lever
9 - Brake lever spring
2 - Inspection hole plug
10 - Adjusting screw
3 - Brake shoe
11 - Tie rod
4 - Adjusting bolt locknut
12 - Locknut
5 - Adjust bolt
13 - Tie rod fork
6 - Brake shoe springs
14 - Pin
7 - Front brake cam
15 - Brake drum cover
8 - Bottom brake lever
Figure 31. Sidecar Wheel Brake
Chapter 9 (Control Levers and Cables)
Brake Adjustment
Note: The front brake lower lever is set at a distance of 85 mm/3.3
in from its vertical axis to the adjusting screw bracket center.
Angle of deviation of the rear brake lever backward from the
vertical axis of the final drive equal to 33±5° should be ensured
after disassembly of the lever with the brake shoes cam. The
brake adjustment is performed with the wheels jacked up.
The front wheel brake is adjusted by an adjusting screw located
on the drum cover and the foot brake, by an adjusting nut situated
on the rear end of the brake tie rods.
Proceed to adjustment of the foot brake starting from the rear
wheel, having first slackened the nut on the tie rod of the sidecar
wheel brake. Then adjust the sidecar wheel brake by tightening
the nut on the brake tie rod. After the foot brake has been adjusted
properly, back up the nut on the tie rod of the sidecar wheel brake
by 2-3 turns to keep if from pulling to the right when applying the
Brakes should be "burnished in" during the initial running in period.
Speeds during this period should not exceed 45 mph/70 kmh with
sidecar attached, 50 mph/90 kmh without sidecar (see "Speeds
Recommended for Running-in" table). Follow burnishing
procedures carefully. Make approximately 100 stops using 75% of
full braking power. This can be done over several periods and
need not be done in one session. Choose an area with clean, dry
pavement and no obstructions. Travel in a straight line and apply
both the hand (front) brake as well as the foot (rear and sidecar)
After burnishing the brake shoes, adjust your brakes on each
wheel to reduce the gap between shoes and drums. This
procedure will ensure maximum braking performance during the
running-in period and is essential before raising your top speed,
after your URAL has been carefully run in (after 2,500 km).
WARNING: Because brake performance is a critical safety
item, we recommend that you see your URAL Dealer for these
Brakes must be inspected for wear every 2,500 km - 5,000 km.
If the brake shoe friction material is 1/16 in. thick or less (the
thickness of a nickel) the shoes must be replaced
immediately. Failure to replace shoes when necessary could
result in brake malfunction and personal injury. If you ride
under adverse conditions, steep hills, heavy traffic, etc., more
frequent inspection, 1,000 km or less, will be necessary. We
do not recommend using the rear brake only.
Chapter 9 (Control Levers and Cables)
Control Cable Adjustment
The control cables are adjusted by screw adjustments at the cable
With the control levers released:
for the clutch a play at the clutch lever end should be equal to 5 - 8
mm/0.2 - 0.3 in
for the brakes - a 0.3 - 0.7 mm/0.012 - 0.028 in. gap between the
brake shoes and the brake drums, for this purpose a 5 - 8 mm/0.2
- 0.3 in. play of the front brake control lever and a play of the rear
brake pedal equal to about 25 - 30 mm/1- 1.2 in. of the full stroke
of the pedal are required
for the carburetors - carburetor throttle synchronized
With the control levers (handles) fully depressed:
for the clutch — complete disengagement of the engine from the
transmission; noiseless shifting of gears means good adjustment
of the clutch cable.
for the carburetors — lift of throttles to the maximum and equal
for the brakes — effective braking of the motorcycle before levers
reach limits.
The brakes are checked when the fully laden motorcycle is
running on dry asphalt or concrete pavement. This check is done
at a slow speed.
Chapter 9 Control Levers and Cables
Control Cable Maintenance
The daily preventative maintenance involves checking the
functioning, condition and fastening of the tie rods, cables and
braking action. Refer to the Maintenance Summary Schedule in
chapter 11 for lubricating and schedule.
After every 5,000 km, check the condition of the brakes, clean the
brake shoes and the active surface of the brake drums, lubricate
the hinge pins and the cams of the brake linings, the joints, the
linkage of the rear and sidecar wheel brakes, the lever axle, the
parking brake bearing, the throttle control twist grip, the lever pins
and ends of cables used in the clutch, the front brake
control, the control cables used in the clutch, the front brake and
the throttles.
Chapter 9 (Control Levers & Cables)
The speedometer scale is illuminated with two lamps. The
speedometer is driven by the main shaft of the gearbox via a
flexible shaft.
After every 10,000 km add five or six drips of oil into the union butt
end to lubricate the speedometer axle. Wash and lubricate the
flexible shaft used in the speedometer drive.
Chapter 10
Electrical Equipment
The electrical equipment of the motorcycle (Fig. 32) includes
power supplies, auxiliary instruments and electric wiring.
Electric power supplies are storage battery and an AC generator
with a built-in rectifier.
A single wire system is employed for wiring the electric circuit, i.e.
a single wire runs from the electric power supplies to the electric
loads (from the positive poles of the storage battery and the
generator), and the frame and other metal parts of the motorcycle
serve as the second wire or the ground. The negative pole of the
storage battery is connected to the ground through the switch and
in the generator the connection to its own casing is provided.
Battery (Fig. 32, #24) supplies electric power to all the systems of
the motorcycle both with the engine inoperative and at low RPM.
The storage battery is rated at 12 V, 9 amp hours. For its technical
description and maintenance refer to the separate section in
chapter 11. (Note: on electric start models the 9amp hour battery
is replaced with a larger capacity battery with 270 cold cranking
amps and 18 amp hours.)
The generator with built-in rectifier is driven by the engine
camshaft driven gear. The transmission ratio between the engine
crankshaft and the generator shaft is 1.33. The generator is
secured with two studs on the engine crankcase. At the drive side
the generator cover is so devised that by turning the generator on
the studs, the adjustment of the gear mesh gap can be
Do not disassemble the generator completely before the
warranty term elapses. Do not run the generator at no-load (in
case of a break or disconnection of wires running to the
electric load), since this may damage the rectifier.
The electronic voltage regulator controls the AC generator
The voltage regulator being factory-adjusted requires no further
Do not disturb the factory adjustment. When installing the
regulator on the motorcycle see that it is grounded safely.
Electric horn. The motorcycle is equipped with type horn which
sounds when ignition is on and the horn button depressed. The
horn can be adjusted with an adjusting screw located at the rear
portion of the horn body.
Headlight. A 7" diameter DOT approved sealed beam headlight is
used on the US URAL. Adjust it so that the high-beam is
horizontal when the motorcycle is in its normal loaded condition.
Figure 32. Electric Circuit Diagram
1 - Sidecar side
13 - Neutral gear
24 - Battery
ON indicator bulb
14 - High/low
2 - Sidecar front
beam headlight
25 - Master
Battery Switch*
3 - Traffic
indicator bulb
15 - Speedometer 26 - Generator
4 - Sidecar rear
27 - Generator
16 - Speedometer
illumination bulbs
indicator bulb
5 - Sidecar side
and brake bulb
17 - Fuse plate
28 - Side and
parking bulb in
6 - Adjustment
18 - Horn
29 - Highbeam
ON indicator bulb
of lamp
7 - Contact
30 - Left turn
(neutral gear
19 - Induction coil
indicator switch)
8 - "Day/night"
switch with
"ignition out"
20 - Foot brake
signal switch
31 - Ignition lock
9 - Hand brake
signal switch
21 - Motorcycle
rear lamp
32 - Light and
turn indicator
switch, horn
10 - Turn
22 - Braking
signal bulb
33 - Interrupter
and commutator
11 - Turn
indicator bulb
23 - Side bulb &
34 - Spark plug
12 - Motorcycle
head lamp plate
illumination bulb
35 - Spark plug
* Deleted on electric start
The stop light switch of the hand brake is screwed into the base
of the hand brake lever and is fixed with a locknut.
The stop light switch is secured on the frame bracket by means
of two screws. The switch rod is connected via a spring to the top
arm of the foot brake pedal. When installing the stop light switch,
see that the spring coupling the switch rod and the brake pedal is
not loose. If the stop light either stays on or doesn't come on,
adjust the spring tension by moving the stop light switch
backwards or forward on the frame & re-tightening the two screws.
The master battery switch serves for disconnection of all the
motorcycle systems from the storage battery for a long-term
parking. The switch is located under the seat except on the
electric start models where it has been removed.
Chapter 10 (Electrical Equipment)
Electrical Equipment Maintenance
During the daily preventive inspection, check the functioning and
the condition of the electrical equipment. After every 4,500 - 5,000
km, inspect the spark plugs. The gap is readjusted by bending the
end of the side electrode. Also check the condition of the spark
plug wires.
Care of generator. In the course of daily inspection, check the
fastening of wires to the generator terminals, fastening of the
generator on the engine crankcase, backlash of the gears (by
listening). In case of too little backlash of the drive gear, excessive
wear and overheating of the generator bearings take place.
Every 10,000 km, check for proper tightening of:
nuts of the binding post bolts the generator clamping screws
the generator fastening nuts
Every 20,000 km clean the cover cavity at the slip rings end from
brush and copper dust. Blow through the generator with
compressed air.
At least once monthly, or daily on electric start bikes when taking
short trips, check the charge of the storage battery. If it is low,
recharge overnight with a small 12V charger (one amp preferred,
2 amp max.).
Note: on electric start models the electrical draw from the
battery is significantly greater than kick start models.
Therefore to avoid starting problems and a drained battery,
the use of a one amp "trickle" charger is highly
recommended. It should be used whenever the bike is idle,
especially when taking short trips.
1 - Sidecar side
13 - Neutral gear
24 - Battery
ON indicator bulb
14 - High/low
2 - Sidecar front
beam headlight
25 - Master
Battery Switch*
3 - Traffic
indicator bulb
15 - Speedometer 26 - Generator
4 - Sidecar rear
27 - Generator
16 - Speedometer
illumination bulbs
indicator bulb
5 - Sidecar side
and brake bulb
17 - Fuse plate
28 - Side and
parking bulb in
6 - Adjustment
18 - Horn
29 - Highbeam
ON indicator bulb
of lamp
7 - Contact
30 - Left turn
(neutral gear
19 - Induction coil
indicator switch)
8 - "Day/night"
switch with
"ignition out"
20 - Foot brake
signal switch
31 - Ignition lock
9 - Hand brake
signal switch
21 - Motorcycle
rear lamp
32 - Light and
turn indicator
switch, horn
10 - Turn
22 - Braking
signal bulb
33 - Interrupter
and commutator
11 - Turn
indicator bulb
23 - Side bulb &
34 - Spark plug
12 - Motorcycle
head lamp plate
illumination bulb
35 - Spark plug
* Deleted on electric start
The stop light switch of the hand brake is screwed into the base
of the hand brake lever and is fixed with a locknut.
The stop light switch is secured on the frame bracket by means
of two screws. The switch rod is connected via a spring to the top
arm of the foot brake pedal. When installing the stop light switch,
see that the spring coupling the switch rod and the brake pedal is
not loose. If the stop light either stays on or doesn't come on,
adjust the spring tension by moving the stop light switch
backwards or forward on the frame & re-tightening the two screws.
The master battery switch serves for disconnection of all the
motorcycle systems from the storage battery for a long-term
parking. The switch is located under the seat except on the
electric start models where it has been removed.
Chapter 11
Maintenance of Motorcycle
Maintenance should be performed after the specified total
kilometers run irrespective of the technical condition of the
Different service duties and technical condition of the motorcycle
may necessitate a change in the intervals.
The Lubrication Chart indicating lubrication points of the
motorcycle is given in Fig. 35. A summary of lubrication
maintenance intervals is given in the lubrication chart.
Cosmetic Maintenance
The enjoyment and resale value of your vehicle is greatly
enhanced by consideration to the "look" and cosmetic perfection
of your vehicle. Due to the numerous metal surfaces on a sidecar
rig, special care must be taken to prevent rust from occurring
and/or to removed any rust or oxidation.
Blue-Job â is a product recommended to remove the oxides from
exhaust pipes and other chrome hardware. This is available from
your URAL dealer.
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
Maintenance Schedule
The following schedule is broken into two columns to indicate the
type of usage and operating environment to which the machine
will be subject. The "Normal Duty" category includes operation in
dusty, hot climates, while pulling loads on hilly terrain for
significant periods of time in the maintenance cycle, operation
primarily with the sidecar accessory attached or for owners who
want to take extra care to keep their machines in "tip top"
condition. This is the schedule presented in the rest of this
The "Light Duty" schedule is the minimal maintenance that an
owner should perform to keep the factory warranty in place. It is
acceptable when the machine is used primarily in ideal climates
with very little dust or contamination of fuel supply and with
sidecar accessory unattached.
1. Change motor and trans. oil, replace filter element, clean and/or
replace air filter element and fuel filter.
Normal: 500 1,500 2,500 3,500 5,000 then every 2,500
Light: 4,500 10,000 15,000 20,000 25,000 30,000
2. Inspect and clean spark plugs, tighten exhaust joints.
Normal: Every 4,500 - 5,000
Light: Every 4,500 - 5,000
3. Adjust throttle cable, clutch and brake cables, check gear shift
linkage for adjustment.
Normal: 500 then every 2,500
Light: Every 4,500 - 5,000
4. Adjust valves and check battery fluid.
Normal: 500, then every 2,500
Light: Every 4,500 - 5,000
5. Lubricate drive axle/hub, replace final drive gear oil.
Normal: Every 2,500 - 3,000, replace at 10,000 km
Light: Every 4,500 - 5,000, replace at 10,000 km
Figure 35. Lubrication diagram
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
Lubrication Chart
(see next page for oil details)
Part To Be
After Break-In
Lever pin and interrupter
Pins and weight holes,
automatic unit
cam bushing
Industrial oil or Every 5,000 km
spindle oil
Every 5,000 km
Engine crankcase
Oil filter
see 3
Every 2,500 km1
Every 5,000 km
see 3
Every 2,500 km2
Air cleaner Spray
Wash and oil every 2,500
Shock absorbers of rear
suspension and sidecar
wheel suspension
Industrial oil or
Change every 10,000 km
spindle oil
Final drive
80/90 Gear
and URAL®
O.T.4 Lube
Top up every 2,500 km
Change every 10,000 km
Hinges of sidecar collet
Every 10,000 km
Hinge joints of brake
Every 5,000 km
Brake pedal shaft
Every 2,500 km
Universal joint of propeller
shaft (grease cup)
Lever pins and end pieces
of clutch and hand brake Grease
Spindle oil
Clutch, front brake and
throttles control cables
Every 10,000 km
Every 5,000 km
Every 5,000 km
Pins and cams of brake
Every 5,000 km
Wheel hub
Every 10,000 km
Front fork dampers
(lubrication points)
Change every 10,000 km
Carburetor throttle control
twist grip
Every 5,000 km
Speedometer drive
flexible shaft and
speedometer axle
Industrial oil or
Every 10,000 km
spindle oil
Steering column bearings
Telescopic forks (-10 and
5wt-10wt Fork
As needed
Every 20,000 km
1. During break-in, changes required at 500km, 1,500km, 2,500km, 3,500km and
2. During break-in, change at 500 km and then 2,500km.
3. 20W/50 Det. oil and URAL® Oil Treatment
4. URAL® O.T. = URAL® Oil Treatment
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
Required Lubrication
The URAL has been certified for EPA with premium grade SAE
20W/50 petroleum detergent oil. This oil has been used in both
the engine and transmission.
To further protect the URAL's air cooled engine, which operates
under high temperature compared to liquid cooled engines, a
special oil treatment product has been developed and produced
for URAL motorcycles by Hilton Oil Co. This product, URAL Oil
Treatment, has proven in tests to lower the engine's operating
temperatures and reduce the friction and wear in the engine,
gearbox and final drive.
URAL Oil Treatment should be continually replaced whenever
changing the oil in your URAL. The following chart shows the
amounts and brands of oil and oil treatment used originally in your
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
List of Recommended
Castrol 55.6 12 oz.
Crankcase: oz.
2.0 L (67.6 oz.)
Castrol 19.5 12 oz.
0.9 L (31.5 oz.)
80/90 wt.
50 ml
110 ml /3.3 oz.
90 ml
60 ml
150 ml / 5 oz.
Final Drive:
Dual Wheel
During maintenance of the motorcycle, proceed as follows:
check oil level, topping off or changing oil altogether, if required
draw threaded joints lubricate the lubrication points check
functioning of the instruments included in the electrical equipment
and the ignition system, attending to the jobs outlined in the
manual; check pressure in the tires bringing it to the specified
Note: Since the URAL engine is an old fashioned design, some
leakage, seepage or dripping of oil and/or other lubricants is
normal. It is not indicative of any malfunctioning and therefore is
not covered as a warranty item unless motorcycle operation or
safety are materially affected.
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
Care of Motorcycle Paint
When washing the motorcycle, use a weak stream of cold or
slightly heated water. Do not remove dust and mud by rubbing the
surface with a dry cloth as sand particles will degrade the surface
and the paint will rapidly lose its brilliance. While washing, do not
use soda solution, kerosene, citric acids or mineral oils. If the
surface is stained with mineral oil, degrease by wiping with a rag.
If after removal of mud and dust with a jet of water, some dirt is left
on the surface, remove it with the help of a sponge, a soft hair
brush or a flannel and water, but not allowing separate water
drops to dry out on the surface. Finally, polish the painted surfaces
with a dry soft flannel.
To repair painted areas, each motorcycle is furnished with a bottle
of matching touch up paint.
For patching proceed as follows: clean the surface with turpentine
rub the damaged spot with a waterproof abrasive cloth and water
rub thoroughly thin the enamel with turpentine or acetone paint
using a soft brush or a spray gun.
After patching let the surface dry in air for 15 min, then proceed
with drying at 212°F-248°F/100°C-120°C with the aid of heat
reflector or an electric lamp until the coat is perfectly dry.
Bear in mind that enamels are inflammable.
Nitroenamels may be used for patching jobs. They dry out readily
when exposed to air of ambient temperature and may also be
dissolved with acetone.
The painted surfaces of the motorcycle feature natural gloss. In
case some dull spots appear, remedy them by polishing as
follows. Take a solution of wax polishing compound and having
washed the dull spots thoroughly, smear a thin film of the
compound with a soft wad (cotton, cotton gauze of flannel) over
the surface. Rub the polishing compound making circular motions
with the wad. In 3 - 5 min. of drying, wipe the surface with a clean
dry piece of cloth or flannel until luster appears.
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
Preservation and Storage
If the motorcycle is put in storage for the season, arrange it on
supports (timbers) and proceed with the preservation treatment.
Check that the wheel tire pressure is within specifications. Store
the motorcycle away from acids, alkalis, mineral fertilizers and
other harmful substances.
Prior to placing it in storage, clean the bike thoroughly, start the
engine and let it run with the gasoline cock closed to remove
gasoline in the float chambers of carburetors. Then squirt some
storage oil into each cylinder through the spark plug holes. Turn
the crankshaft by depressing the kick lever pedal to distribute
lubricant over the interior of the cylinders. Lubricate the surfaces
of chrome and zinc plated parts with a rust inhibitor. Smear all the
points provided with grease cups with commercial grease. Seal
the outlet holes of the mufflers.
Before starting a trip on the motorcycle that was under
preservation, proceed with the jobs listed in the section "Pre-Trip
Winter Considerations
Motorists in many areas of the US experience the use of salt and
other chemicals that are applied to road surfaces in the winter.
Salt or other caustic chemicals should always be removed from
your bike's surfaces with fresh water as soon as possible.
Undercoating of fenders is recommended for those areas with salt
and/or fine gravel or sand. See your dealer for details.
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
Figure 36. Layout of Bearings and Seals
Seals Mounted on Motorcycle (Fig. 36)
Part No.
Clutch shaft seal
Gear case RH cover seal Gearbox cover, RH
1.90 RH gearcase cover
Gearbox cover, LH
Main shaft
Gearbox crankcase
Gearbox, Front Side
U-joint fork seal, assy
Final drive case
6206006-10 Rubber packing assy
Wheel nut assy.
Seal collar
Fork leg
Clutch release slider ring
Clutch release slide
Seals of clutch release
Clutch release rod
Collar type seal & spring
Final drive case
Collar seal drive gearcase Final drive case
Packing gland starting
Gearbox cover
Z101-04131 Ring
Gearbox, front side
Z101-08019 Collar with spring assy
Fork leg
Z101-08123 Seal collar
Fork leg
Z101-08159 Seal
Steering column
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
Storage batteries on the motorcycle should function at
ambient air temperature from -40°C to plus 60°C/ 40°F to
As the battery is in service:
regularly check the voltage generator-regulator for 13.5 14.5 V across the charging voltage do not allow the
battery to remain discharged for more than 24 hours.
Avoid prolonged discharging as this may bring about
sulphatation of plates use only distilled water to maintain
the normal level of electrolyte. In service, do not top off
the level or the density of electrolyte by adding acid,
unless it is well known that the drop of electrolyte level is
caused by spilling electrolyte out of cells coat bolts, nuts,
washers and tips with petroleum jelly or battery grease.
Use two wrenches for clamping or undoing the nuts to
avoid breaking battery parts. use a small "floating"
charger which will keep the battery from losing its power
while you are not using your bike. This type of charger
won't overcharge your battery, but will keep it active, so
sulfating won't occur. You will be able to find many
chargers of this kind on the market.
Do not interconnect the terminals (wires of
dissimilar polarities) to check for sparking.
Storage of batteries during lay-up. The batteries
mounted on a motorcycle during winter lay-up and during
suspensions in service should be held charged and
primed with electrolyte.
Before lay-up, fully charge the batteries, replace the
plugs, wash the battery surface with water and wipe dry,
clean the bolts and nuts of dirt and lubricate with
commercial grease.
WARNING: Batteries contain sulfuric acid which can
cause severe burns. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or
clothing. ANTIDOTE: External — flush with water.
INTERNAL — drink large quantities of water followed
by milk of magnesia, vegetable oil, or beaten eggs.
Call doctor immediately.
Caution: When charging the battery, disconnect the
positive terminal (+) from the battery to prevent
damage to the electrical components - Never
jump-start the motorcycle!
Warning: To avoid discharging the battery on
repeated short trips,keep the engine speed high
enough to turn the dashboard battery indicator light
OFF. When not riding, hook the battery to a trickle
charger to keep the battery fully charged, especially
on electric starter models as the battery drain from
starting is significant.
WARNING: Batteries produce explosive
hydrogen gas at all times — especially
when being charged. Keep cigarettes,
open flame, and sparks away from
battery at all times. Ventilate area when
charging battery. Always protect hands
and protect eyes with shield or goggles
when working near a battery or acid.
CAUTION: If battery is filled to a higher level than
specified, some of the solution will be forced out
through the vent tube when battery is charging. This
will not only weaken the solution, but also may
damage parts near the battery. Keep battery clean
and lightly coat terminals with petroleum jelly to
prevent corrosion. Do not over tighten terminal
connections. To prevent battery case damage
caused by pressure build-up, be sure vent tube is
properly routed and not kinked or obstructed.
Chapter 11 (Maintenance of Motorcycle)
List of Individual Tool Set,
Spare Parts, Accessories &
1. Wrench 7 x 8
1. Air Pump
2. Wrench 10 x
2. Air Pressure
3. Wrench 13 x
3. Ignition keys
4. Wrench 14 x
4. Theft proof
lock keys
5. Wrench 19 x
6. Socket wrench
10 x 12
Set of Spares
7. Socket wrench
10 x 13
1. Inner tube
patch kit
8. Socket wrench
19 x 21
2. Oil filter
9. Wrench 27 mm
3. Fuses
10. Double head
4. Touch up
11. Spanner
12. Spanner
wrench assembly
13. Screwdriver
150 mm
1. Owner's
14. Screwdriver
100 mm
15. Pliers
16. Tool kit pouch
2. Driving the
URAL Sidecar
(except with
Solo models)
3. Owner's
Chapter 12
Sportsman Motorcycle with Driven
Sidecar Wheel
The sidecar wheel is driven by a propeller shaft connected with
the motorcycle main drive with a differential gear (Fig. 37 & Fig.
The following units that have been redesigned to produce the
driven sidecar wheel are:
A. Main drive.
B. Rear wheel swing arm
C. Sidecar chassis, fender and brake tie rod.
Additionally, there are a number of new parts, including the cross
shaft to the sidecar wheel and two universal joints.
Chapter 12 (Sportsman Motorcycle with Driven Sidecar
Handling Differences from the Single
Wheel Drive
Since the sidecar wheel is driven, the Sportsman motorcycle
handles differently from the standard Tourist (single wheel drive)
motorcycle. Turning left, especially when accelerating from a stop
is much easier since the driven sidecar wheel helps to pull the
sidecar forward to the left. Turning to the right from a stop is
somewhat more difficult than the single wheel drive where the
drag of the sidecar tends to pull the motorcycle to the right when
accelerating. The driven sidecar wheel makes the Sportsman less
likely to pull right when accelerating and left when decelerating.
The sidecar wheel receives its torque via a differential in the final
drive. About 30% of the power is transferred to the sidecar wheel
during steady state operations with the sidecar wheel on the
ground. However, if the sidecar wheel is lifted off of the ground
when power is being applied, most of the power will go to it. If the
sidecar wheel is kept in the air, it will spin up and the motorcycle
will gradually roll to a stop. Thus, it is not recommended that the
Sportsman sidecar wheel ever be lifted for more than a few
seconds during normal operation. Lifting of the sidecar wheel
should be limited to low speed training in a parking lot with
extreme care taken to reduce engine speed as soon as the
sidecar wheel is lifted. Passengers or cargo should always be first
loaded in the sidecar before any load beyond the driver is put on
the motorcycle.
Chapter 12 (Sportsman Motorcycle with Driven Sidecar
Sidecar Maintenance
Check before driving that the final drive swing arm, propeller shaft
fork and sun gear flange are bolted tightly.
After the first 2,500 kilometers, change the oil in the main drive
gearcase and then check the oil level every 2,500 kilometers. Oil
level must not be lower than the oil gauge tip.
Grease the moveable slot joint of the propeller shaft sufficiently
every 5,000 kilometers. Do not over grease the slotted hub of the
propeller shaft as it may prevent the slotted shaft from moving
freely in the hub.
The bearing unit of the sidecar wheel where an oilless bearing is
installed in, requires no maintenance.
After every 10,000 kilometers:
Change the grease in the universal joint bearing. Change
the oil in the main drive gear case as follows:
a. Put the motorcycle on the stand.
b. Remove the drain plug and filler plug and drain the oil.
c. Fill with 80-90 gear lube.
Chapter 12 (Sportsman Motorcycle with Driven Sidecar)
The Main Drive and Differential
To knock down the main drive:
Remove the two bolts attaching the propeller shaft fork to
the sun gear flange and
move the fork in the direction of the side-car giving access
to the rear wheel axle nut. Remove the wheel. Remove the
brake shoes. Drain out the oil from the main drive gear
case. Remove the collar and the cover. Remove the gear
case cover nuts and remove the cover together with the
Differential body and gears:
Remove the nut from the cover together with the sun gear
and seal. Tap lightly to remove the differential body with
seal from the cover. Remove the epicycle gear with two
sets of rollers and seal and spacer from the case. Remove
the driven conical gear with the hub. Remove the needle
rollers from the splines in the hub in the gear case.
Proceed further as described in the standard repair manual.
Assembling the main drive is effected in reversed order.
Before tightening the nut in the case cover, the sun gear flange
with seal and ball bearing should be installed. The bronze ring
should be positioned onto the sun gear neck next after the steel
ring. After putting the main drive together, check and adjust the
side play of the conical gears by tightening or loosening the nut in
the case cover. When side play of 0.004"-0.012"/.01 to 0.3 mm is
achieved, stop adjusting and fix the nut with the retainer.
To knock down the bearing unit of the sidecar wheel:
Remove the fork of the propeller shaft from the flange of the
sun gear of the main drive. Remove the sidecar wheel.
Note: The Sportsman has a nut securing the axle of the rear wheel
in place. Do not try to get the Sportsman's axle out, you may bend
the bike's frame.
Remove the brake shoes. Remove the wheel axle in the
direction of the sidecar. Remove the brake drum cover.
Figure 37. Main Drive
1 - Gear case
11 - Sun gear
21 - Retainer
31 - Roller
2 - Differential
12 - Main drive case
22 - Driving gear
32 - Needle roller
3 - Epicycle gear
13 - Rear wheel axle
23 - Seal
33 - Spacer
4 - Bearing nut
14 - Axle nut
24 - Bolt
34 - Spacer
5 - Hub
15 - Splint
25 - Propeller shaft
35 - Satellite gear
6 - Propellor shaft 16 - Ring
26 - Seal rings
36 - Satellite pin
7 - Case seal 1
27 - Driving gear
37 - Driven gear
8 - Needle bearing 18 - Nut
28 - Bronze spacer
38 - Screw
9 - Double-row
19 - Double-row
29 - Spacer
39 - Ring
10 - Seal cap
20 - Sun gear seal
30 - Gasket
40 - Bolt
7 - Spacer
Figure 38. Sidecar Bearing Unit
1 - Swinging arm
6 - Ball bearing
11 - Bolt
2 - Braking drum cover
7 - Protective
12 - Shock absorber silent
3 - Slotted hub
8 - Spacer
13 - Propeller shaft
4 - Sidecar pin
9 - Ring
14 - Universal joint
5 - Ball bearing
10 - Spacer ring
Chapter 13
Learning to Ride the Ural Motorcycle
with Sidecar Accessory
The URAL sidecar motorcycle, since it has three wheels, behaves
quite differently from either a solo motorcycle or a car. For these
reasons the following label has been attached to your motorcycle
WARNING: Left-hand and right-hand turns may be
dangerous. Excessive speed and an unweighted sidecar must
be avoided. Read and practice the techniques in the provided
"Driving the URAL Sidecar."
The bottom line is that, like any other motor vehicle, if the URAL is
driven beyond its design limits, you can get hurt. Properly driven,
since you have the added stability of the third wheel in case of
sand, ice or slippery road conditions, the URAL will give you a
much safer ride under these adverse conditions than a solo
Finally, you will enjoy the fact that the URAL will not expose you to
tipping over at stop signs, which has happened all too frequently
to beginners as well as experienced solo motorcycle drivers.
Even though special skills are required, these skills are not difficult
to master. They are clearly defined in the Driving the URAL
Sidecar Motorcycle manual.
This manual is included with each new URAL sidecar motorcycle
outfit. Before driving your new URAL , carefully study this manual
from cover-to-cover, fill in the exam questions, review the manual
to check your answers and practice all the maneuvers outlined in
the manual before going out into traffic.
If possible, an experienced sidecar driver (preferably from your
Authorized URAL dealer) should ride along during your first ride. If
not, put about 100 LB of ballast in the sidecar during your initial
training. Although an experienced driver can safely drive the
URAL with an empty chair (sidecar) a beginner should always
have ballast or a passenger in the chair.
Check with your local URAL Dealer to find out your particular
state's sidecar driver's license requirements. As described in the
Driving the URAL Sidecar Motorcycle, the sidecar weight, drag
and geometry will result in the following characteristics for your
When you accelerate, the URAL will pull slightly to the right due to
the inertia and drag of the sidecar.
When you let off the gas it will pull slightly to the left due to the
inertia of the sidecar.
Note: The Sportsman (driven sidecar wheel) model handles
differently than the single wheel drive models (see chapter 12).
If the outfit is set-up correctly (proper toe-in of sidecar, lean-out of
motorcycle and correct brake adjustment) it should not pull to
either side during constant speed operation or when the front and
rear brakes are simultaneously applied.
The best way to make friends with your URAL is to take it to a
large, paved, non-congested parking lot. Practice starting and
stopping from various speeds, shifting up and down, accelerating
and decelerating in each gear, turning right and left at
slow-to-medium speeds. Move on to practice the general
maneuvers outlined in the Driving the URAL Sidecar Motorcycle.
Finally, practice lifting the chair. To do this drive in a clockwise
circle about 20 feet in diameter. Gradually increase your speed
until the sidecar wheel lifts from the surface 6 - 12 inches. Then
roll off the throttle and ease steering pressure on the grips so it
gradually comes back down. Repeat doing this until you feel
comfortable with the wheel in the air. Remember, the moment you
roll off the throttle it will come down. When you have mastered
"flying the chair" to the point where you can keep it in the air for a
full circle you will have a good feel for the speed and turn radius
that will lift the chair. Then carefully experiment with larger and
smaller circles.
If, after gaining proficiency with the URAL , you plan to drive on
the street with an empty chair, go back to the parking lot and
practice the above maneuvers as well as all other maneuvers
outlined in the Driving the URAL Sidecar Motorcycle with an empty
chair. You'll find that the chair will lift much more readily when it is
empty, especially if you enter a decreasing radius turn (such as a
freeway off ramp) at too high a speed. This is why we recommend
generally carrying about 100 lbs. or more in the sidecar.
We strongly recommend that you join the United Sidecar
Association. The current address and phone number is: USCA
Membership, 130 South Michigan, Villa Park, Illinois, 60181,
phone: (708) 833-6732.
Chapter 13 (Learning to Ride the ural Motorcycle with
Sidecar Accessory)
Safe Operating Rules
Before operating your new URAL it is your responsibility to read
and follow operating and maintenance instructions in this manual
and follow these basic rules for your personal safety. Know and
respect the Rules of the Road in your state. Use only URAL
approved parts and accessories. Gasoline is extremely flammable
and is explosive under certain conditions. Refuel in a well
ventilated area with the engine stopped. Do not smoke or allow
open flames or sparks when refueling or servicing the fuel system.
Always close the fuel supply valve when the engine is not running
to prevent flooding of the carburetors. Do not overfill fuel tank. Fill
tank slowly to prevent fuel spillage. Leave air space to allow for
fuel expansion. Do not fill more than about an inch below the lower
edge of the tank filler. Motorcycle exhaust contains poisonous
carbon monoxide gas. Do not inhale exhaust gases and never run
the engine in a closed garage or confined area. Before starting
engine, check for proper operation of brake, clutch, shifter, throttle
controls, correct fuel and oil supply. A new motorcycle must be
operated according to a special break-in procedure (see
Running-In The New Motorcycle). Operate the motorcycle only at
moderate speed and out of traffic until you have become
thoroughly familiar with its operation and handling characteristics
under all conditions. If you are an inexperienced rider we
recommend that you obtain information and training in correct
motorcycle riding technique. For the sidecar motorcycle, carefully
study the Driving the URAL Sidecar Motorcycle. Do not exceed
the legal speed limit or drive too fast for existing conditions.
Always reduce speed when poor driving conditions exist. High
speed increases the influence of any other condition affecting
stability and the possibility of loss of control. Pay strict attention to
road surfaces and wind conditions. Any two or three- wheeled
vehicle may be subject to upsetting forces. Wind blasts from
passing trucks, holes in the pavement, rough road surfaces, rider
control error, etc., may influence the handling characteristics of
your motorcycle. Should this happen, reduce speed and guide the
motorcycle with a relaxed grip to a straight-away position. Do not
brake abruptly or force the handlebars as this may aggravate an
unstable condition. New riders should gain experience under
various conditions while driving at moderate speeds. Operate your
motorcycle defensively. Remember, a motorcycle does not afford
the same protection as an automobile in an accident. Wear an
approved helmet, clothing and footgear suited to motorcycle
riding. Bright or light colors are best for greater visibility in traffic
especially at night. Avoid loose flowing garments and scarves. The
exhaust pipes and mufflers get very hot when the engine is
running and remain too hot to touch for some time after the engine
is shut off. Wear clothing that will completely cover the legs when
riding and avoid contact with the exhaust system. Do not allow
others, under any circumstances to operate your motorcycle
unless you are certain that they are experienced, licensed riders
and are familiar with the operation of your particular motorcycle.
When leaving the motorcycle unattended, remove ignition key
from switch. Protect your motorcycle against theft. Safe
motorcycle operation requires mental awareness and good
judgment combined with a defensive driving attitude. Don't allow
fatigue, alcohol or drugs to endanger your safety or the safety of
others. Maintain your motorcycle in proper operating condition in
accordance with the Maintenance Summary Schedules in this
Owner's Manual. Particularly important to motorcycle stability is
the tire inflation pressure, tread condition, and proper adjustment
of wheel bearings and steering head bearings. Do not operate
motorcycle with loose, worn or damaged steering system or front
or rear suspension system as handling will be adversely affected.
Contact your dealer for repair of steering or suspension system
wear or damage. Do not tow a trailer. At street intersections, give
the right-of-way to the vehicle on your right. Do not presume too
much when you have the right-of-way, the other driver may not
know you have it. Always signal when preparing to stop or turn. All
traffic signs, including those used for the control of traffic at
intersections, should be obeyed promptly and to the letter. SLOW
DOWN signs near schools and CAUTION signs at railroad
crossings should always be observed and your actions governed
accordingly. Never anticipate a traffic light. When a change is
indicated from GO to STOP (or vice versa) in the traffic control
systems at intersections, await the change. When intending to turn
to the left, give signal at least 100 feet before reaching the turning
point. Move over to the centerline of the street (unless local rules
require otherwise), slow down passing the intersection of the
street and then turn carefully to the left. In turning either right or
left, watch for pedestrians as well as vehicles. Do not leave the
curb or parking area without signaling and seeing that your way is
clear to drive into moving traffic. A moving line of traffic has the
right-of-way. See that your license tags are installed in the position
specified by law and that they are clearly visible under all
conditions. Keep them clean. Ride at a safe speed — a speed
consistent with the type of highway you are on, and always note
whether the road is dry, oily, icy or wet. Each varying condition on
the highway means adjusting your speed accordingly.
Chapter 13 (Learning to Ride the Ural Motorcycle with
Sidecar Accessory)
Tire Data
WARNING: For your own personal safety, tires and tubes
must be correctly matched to wheel rims. See your
Authorized URAL Dealer for further information. Mismatching
tires, tubes and rims may result in damage to the tire bead
during mounting or may allow the tire to slip on the rim,
possible causing tire failure. In addition, using tires other
than those specified may adversely affect motorcycle
stability. Protective rubber rim strips must be used. Tire sizes
are molded on the tire sidewall. Tube sizes are printed on the
URAL tires that have been tested by the manufacturer to ensure
compliance with DOT requirements are available from your
Authorized URAL Dealer.
The following tire data labels are mounted on the front frame of
your URAL.
For motorcycle with sidecar accessory 19" tire
IMZ 8.103-40, GVWR:137 LB.(623 KG.), GAWRs:
Front: 491 lb. (223 kg) with 4.00 x 19 tire, 19 x 3.00 rim, at 22 psi
Side: 304 lb. (138 kg) with 4.00 x 19 tire, 19 x 3.00 rim, at 22 psi
Rear: 577 lb. (262 kg) with 4.00 x 19 tire, 19 x 3.00 rim, at 36 psi
For motorcycle with sidecar accessory 18" tire
IMZ 8.103.10, GVWR:1371 LB (623 KG.),GAWRs:
Front: 491 lb. (223 kg) with 3.50 x 18 tire, 18 x 3.00 rim, at 25 psi
Side: 304 lb. (138 kg) with 3.50 x 18 tire, 18 x 3.00 rim, at 25 psi
Rear: 577 lb. (262 kg) with 3.50 x 18 tire, 18 x 3.00 rim, at 36 psi
For solo motorcycle:
IMZ 8.123, GVWR:864 LB. (393 KG.), GAWRs:
Front: 348 lb. (158 kg) with 3.50 x 18 tire, 18 x 3.00 rim, at 25 psi
Rear: 516 lb. (234 kg) with 3.50 x 18 tire, 18 x 3.00 rim, at 32 psi
WARNING: Maximum inflation pressure must not exceed
specification on tire sidewall.
WARNING: When tires are worn to a tire center tread depths
of 3/32 in, they should be replaced.
Starting The Engine
1. Open carburetor enricheners (marked "choke" on lever) on both
carburetors (push lever down).
2. Make sure fuel cock is open "O" or on reserve "P." Fuel cock
handle in 6 or 12 o'clock position.
3. Ignition "RUN," "KILL," switch set to "RUN" (down), gearbox in
"NEUTRAL," master battery switch (under seat) "ON."
4. Close the air control shutter by moving the lever (located under
the air filter) up and
5. With foot on kick starter lever and one hand on throttle handle,
push foot down swiftly and hard while simultaneously opening
the throttle slightly. Repeat until engine fires (usually 2 or 3 kicks).
6. After engine starts, close the enricheners by pulling up on
lever(s) at carburetor(s), partially open the air control shutter
(under the air filter ) by moving the lever ¼" inch backwards. Let
the engine warm up for 3 - 5 minutes, depending on the
7. After the engine has warmed up, completely open the air
control shutter by moving the lever all the way down until it stops.
Trouble Shooting
If engine does not start with above method, the problem(s) may be
one or more of the following:
1. Engine is "flooded," i.e., the spark plugs have been "fouled" by
too much fuel and will not spark.
Correction: Flooding is corrected by removing the spark plugs and
drying them.
2. Too little fuel is getting to the engine due to low fuel in tank
and/or plugged fuel lines or fuel cock.
Correction: Clogged fuel lines or filter is corrected by blowing
through fuel lines from carburetor end to remove any debris from
lines. Fuel cock filter can be cleaned separately by removing and
3. Little or no spark is available to the engine due to a low battery,
(dim headlight), loose ignition wires.
Correction: Dead battery is corrected by charging battery, loose or
broken ignition wires are corrected by replacing broken wire(s) or
by re-connecting wire(s) at either the spark plug cap(s) or at the
ignition coil under the distributor box cover at the front of the
*4. Not enough compression in the cylinders due to excessive
wear or broken valve(s).
*5. No spark to engine due to failure of electronic commutator
or pick-up assembly.
*Items 4 & 5 above require the attention of a qualified mechanic at
your URAL dealer.
*** WARNING !... Reverse Gear
Damage...WARNING !***
Attempting to engage the reverse gear while the motorcycle
is moving may cause SEVERE damage to the gearbox and
will void the warranty. Engage the reverse gear only when the
motorcycle is completely stopped and it is either in 1st gear
or neutral.