Craftsman 113.198111 Operator`s manual

Save This Manual
For Future Reference
_AIRS
Operators
Manual
MODEL NO.
113.198111
10" RADIAL SAW
WITH LEG SET
,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Serial
Number
Model and serial numbers
may be found at the rear of
the base.
You should record both
model and serial number in
a safe place for future use.
I:RRFTSMRN
10-INCH RADIAL SAW
CAUTION:
• Assembly
• Operating
• Repair parts
READ ALL
INSTRUCTIONS
CAREFULLY
Sold by SEARS,
Part No. SP5101
ROEBUCK
AND CO., Chicag_o. IL. 60684
U.S.A.
Printed in U.S.A.
ii
FULL ONE
If within
one
workmanship,
YEAR WARRANTY
year from
the date of purchase,
Sears will repair il, tree of charge.
WARRANTY
SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT
IS AVAILABLE
THROUGHOUT
This warranty
applies
This
gives you
warranty
only while
this
specilic
SEARS,
legal
Craftsman
Radial
Saw
BY SIMPLY
CONTACTING
THE UNITED
STATES.
product
ROEBUCK
ON CRAFTSMAN
this
rights
AND
is used in the
and
CO.,
you
United
698/731A
THE
due
SAW
to
a defect
NEAREST
in material
SEARS
SERVICE
States.
may also have
DEPT.
RADIAL
fails
other
Sears
rights
Tower,
which
Chicago,
vary from
state
to stale.
IL 60684
Table of Contents
Section
Title
Safety
Page
Information
Putting
Your Saw Together
Location
and Function
Alignment
Connections
Crosscutting
Ripping
......................................
.......................................
...............................................
Accessories
Recommended
Glossary
.........................................
Accessories
......................................
.....................................................
Hints
Maintaining
Parts
.............................
...................................................
Cutting
Trouble
.....................................
of Controls
of the Blade
Electrical
Helpful
............................................
...............................................
Your Saw
Shooting
.......................................
...........................................
List .............................................................
Numbers
3-6
7-12
13-16
1%33
34-35
36-42
43-51
52-55
56
57
58-59
60-65
66-70
72-85
or
Safety Information
The operator's
manual contains safety information, instructions
and signs for your protection against serious injuries, including:
Loss of fingers, hand,
with the saw blade.
arm or leg from contact
Eye injuries, including being blinded from
being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the saw blade.
Impact injuries, including broken bones and
internal organ damage, from being hit by a
thrown workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces
of the saw blade.
Major Hazards
1. Workpiece
Kickback
Kickback is an uncontrolled
grabbing and
throwing of the workpiece
during ripping. If
kickback occurs, the workpiece
can hit
you hard enough to cause broken bones, internal organ injury or death. To reduce or
prevent kickback, read and follow the safety
information
in the Ripping section of the
manual.
Kickback.
Shock, electrocution,
or burn injuries from
contact with wires, motor or other saw parts.
Safety Symbol
Internal
and Signal Words
The safety information
in this manual is highlighted by the following safety alert symbol.
injury
result.
can
Use anti-kickback
pawls/spreader.
Fig, 2 Kickback
2. Kickback
Safety Sign
Followed
by Blade
Contact
Fig. 1 Safety Alert Symbol
The following signal words
cate the level of risk.
are used to indi-
DANGER:
Means that if the safety information is not followed, someone will be
seriously injured or killed.
WARNING:
Means that if the safety information is not followed someone could be
seriously
injured
Kickback followed by blade contact can happen when the saw blade is pinched or bound
by the workpiece
during ripping. Kickback
can happen if you reach around the blade to
the end with the anti-kickback
pawls, (outfeed end), and try to hold-down
or pull the
workpiece through to complete
the cut. Your
fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the
blade if the workpiece kicks back.
or killed.
Kickback,
Blade
Contact.
CAUTION:
Means that if the safety information is not followed someone may be in-
Fingers, hand, arm
can be cut off.
jured.
All of the safety information
and cutting
steps are critical to the safe operation
of the
radial arm saw.
Follow instructions
for Ripping
Fig. 3 Blade Contact
Safety Sign
3. Wrong
Way
Feed
Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece
into the end of the saw ,Mth the anti-kickback
pawls. The workpiece
can be grabbed by the
blade and pul! your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off.
can be blinded
Wear safety
goggles.
Fig. 6 Safety Goggles Safety Sign
Wrong
Way Feed.
Fingers,hand,
arm
can De cut off.
Feed into infeed
end of saw.
_k DANGER:
Follow the 8 steps listed
below to reduce or eliminate
the risk of
being injured when using the radial arm
saw. Failure to do so can result in a life
threatening
injury or death.
Fig, 4 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign
If a workpiece
is fed into the end of the saw
with the anti-kickback
pawls, it can take off
like a missile.
Anyone hit by the workpiece
can be killed. Feed the workpiece
into the infeed end of the saw blade, the end that does
not have the anti-kickback
pawls.
__,
_
fli
iWr°n
I Wa e
can kill others.
_ Workpiece
impact
Feed into infeed
end of saw.
Fig. 5 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign
4. Thrown
Pieces
Workpiece
Chips
and
Blade
The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade violently. You
can be blinded. Wear safety goggles labeled
"ANSI Z87.1" on the package.
Personal
Saw
Safety
1. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1"
on the package. Do not wear regular glasses,
they are not safety glasses.
2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve
shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie
long hair. Do not wear loose, bag_ clothes,
gloves, neckties, rings, watches or any other
jewelry.
3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety goggles, if cutting operation
is dusty.
4. Wear hearing protectors,
ear plugs or
muffs, if you use the saw daily.
5. Keep good footing and balance. Don't overreach.
Work
Safety
1. Keep guards and anti-kickback
place and in working order.
pawls in
2. Check for broken or damaged parts before
using saw. A damaged guard or other saw
part should be checked for alignment, binding, breakage and correct mounting to make
sure they are working properly. Repair or
replace damaged guards or other saw parts.
3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance,
making adjustments,
and changing blades
accessories.
and
4. Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece
when practical. It's safer than using your
hands and frees them to operate the saw.
5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or accessories to do jobs they are not designed to do.
Area Safety
1. Keep children, pets and visitors out of the
work area.
2. Make the work area child proof. Remove
the yellow key from the red switch and place
it out of reach and sight. [x)ck work area.
6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and
the red switch is in the off position before
plugging in the power cord.
7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic
materials. Do not cut metal materials.
3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust, wax
or other slippery materials.
8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or
table if it slides, tips or walks during use.
4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered
well lighted.
9. Feed the workpiece against the direction
of rotation of the blade when ripping.
and
5. Use the saw in a dry area. Do not use in
wet or damp area. Do not use outside.
6. Clear the table of all objects (adjusting
wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except
the workpiece
to be cut, fixtures or clamps
before turning the saw on.
10. Turn the saw off before leaving work
area. Do not leave the saw until the blade
has stopped.
11. Lock the rip and miter locks before
moving the saw from one location to another.
7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work
on the table while the blade is turning.
12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if
the blade jams. Do not try to free a jammed
workpiece with the saw on.
8. Store items away from the saw. Do not
climb on the saw to reach items. Do not
stand on the table; the saw can tip over.
13. Turn the saw off if it vibrates excessively
or makes an unfamiliar
noise. Correct any
problems
before
restarting
saw.
14.Rip workpieces that are longer than the
diameter of the blade being used.Do not rip
a workpiece that is shorter than the diameter
of the blade being used.
15. Cut only one workpiece at a time. Do
not cut stackedworkpiecesor lay them edge
to edge for cutting.
Workpiece
Support
Safety
Labels
1. Wrong way feed label located
feed end of the blade guard.
Safety
Saw
on the out-
f
2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade. Use
table extensions
or other supports. Do not
use helpers.
3. Helpers can cause the workpiece
to kickback. Do not use other people to support or
assist in feeding or pulling the workpiece.
Use table extensions.
See Recommended
Accessories section of the manual.
[ DANGER
TO AVOID
INJURY DO NOT
FEED MATERIAL
INTO CUTTING
TOOL FROM
THIS END
Fig. 7 Wrong Way Feed Label
2. Safety instruction
label located on the
front of the saw near the hai_dwheel.
I DANGER I
FOR YOUR OWN
1. Read
before
Blade Safety
and
SAFETY:
understand
operating
owner's
manual
machine,
2. Wear safety goggles complying
with
ANSI Z87.1.
3. Keep hands out of path of saw blade,
4, Know how to avoid "KICKBACKS:
5. Use "'PUSH STICK" for narrow work.
6. Never reach around the saw blade.
7. Never perform any operation
"FREEHAND:'
8. Return carriage to the full rear position
after each cross-cut
type operation.
9. Shut off power and allow saw blade to
stop before adjusting or servicing,
4. When table extensions over 24 inches wide
are added to either side of the saw, make
sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or
support the outer end of the extension from
the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.
Fig. 8 Safety Instruction Label
marked
2. Do not use blades
diameter.
for 3450 rpm or higher.
larger than 10 inches in
3. Ripping
safety
I DANGER
1. Read
and
belore
3. Keep blade
Arm
The following labels are on your radial arm
saw. Locate, read and follow the safety instructions and information
contained
in these
labels.
1. Use additional supports for workpieces
which extend beyond the saw table. Large
workpieces can shift, twist, rise from table or
fall after they are cut.
1. Use blades
on the Radial
understand
4.3'Keep
Know
located
I WHEN RIPPING
owner's
manual
Iv_"Of
hlmdl
row to out
c_mptyin_J
with
KICKBACKS"
h ol saw blade,
4. Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapidly; the blade can loosen.
5. Use "PUSH
the blade;
STICK"
tor narrow
work.
6. Never
Nevs.r perform
reach aroulld
the saw blade_
7.
any opermllon
"FREEHAND;'
8. Shut
power
and allow
saw bl_
st op off
before
adjusting
or servlclr'_g.
cuttkng
tool
FROM
to
"fTIIS END ONLY
TO
AVOID F_INAWAY
WORKPIECE
AI.W&YS
W_PIECIE
into
DANGER _ AT OUTFEED
hands
5. Do not overtighten
collar can be warped.
on the motor.
atln9 machine.
2. Wirer IOper'safety
goggles
ANS_ Z87.1.
sharp and clean.
label
the blade
into
_'_:l
under
cui'llr_
to,_l
OU'rFEI_ D,_K?,ER
ZONE
KEEP
Motor: 120 Volts
11.5 Amps
Fig. 9 Ripping
3450 RP.M.
Safety Labe!
60 Hz
SHADED
HANDS
k
AWAY!
1 Phase
Mode! C48HM-275
Putting
Your Saw Together
Your radial arm saw is easy to put together,
however it will take time. Ask a friend to
help, and follow these assembly instructions.
It is important for your safety, and for the
quality of your cuts, that the saw be put
together with care.
WARNING: Plugging the saw in
during assembly can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during assembly. The saw should only be
plugged in when it is to be used.
Unpacking/Set
F
up
1. As you unpack, try to keep the contents of
each of the smaller bags together and separate
from the others. This will help you identify and
locate the parts you need during assembly.
The following
11_.1981
l l:
parts
are included
with
Basic Saw Assembly
............
Operator's
Manual
.............
Leg ..........................
Stiffener Lower ................
1
1
4
4
E
F
G
tf
I
Stiffener Leg ..................
Channel, Table Mounting
Trim Caps ....................
Trim Ledge
...................
Rear Table ....................
4
2
2
l
1
.I
K
L
M
*This
2. Identify the large parts of your saw before
beginning each section. Your task will be
easier if you are familiar with these parts.
model
A
B
C
D
........
Fig. 10 - Parts for Model 113.198111
3. Identify the tools required for assembly.
Make sure that you have all of the tools you
will need, (Figure 11)
____
......
Spacer
.......................
1
Fence ........................
1
Front Table
...................
1
Loose Parts Bag* ...................
4
is the total number of loose parts bags.
-_
Medium
Screwdriver
7116" Wrench
'///_
1/2" Wrench.
_( _]No. 2 Phillips
.
-,Screwdriver
., ._..)
9//16'_NWr::::h
t_
Hammer
Framing
3/4'" Socket
9/16"
Socket
Socket
Wrench
Square
Pencil
Socket
Extension
1/8"
3/16"
Fig. 11
Pliers
7
11
Hex "'L"
Hex "'L"
Wrench
Wrenct
4. Open the loose parts bags, and sort the
contents into piles on the floor or table. This
will make it easier for you to find the part(s)
you need during assembly.
N
O
P
Q
R
S
Truss Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 1/2 ....
44
Hex Nut 1/4-20
...............
44
Lockwasher
Ext. 1/4 ...........
44
Foot Leveling
.................
4
Hex Jam Nut 3/8-16 ............
8
Pan Hd. Screw Ty BT 1/4 x 1/2 .. 6
©
AA Tee Nut .............................
1
AB Cup Point Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8 .. 1
AC Washer21/64x9/16xl/16
........
2
AD Lock Nut 5/16-18 ...................
2
AE Pan Hd. Screw Ty T
I/4-20 x 1-3/4 .....................
!
AF "U" Clip 1/4-20 .....................
I
AC
AA
©
AB
AD
AF
O
©
T
U
Indicator
Indicator
Rip .......................
Bevel ......................
V
W
X
Cap Motor
Screw
Pan
Lockwasher
Y
Switch
Z
Fable
Support
................
Hd. 10-32 x 1/2 .........
Ext. #10 ................
Key ..........................
('lamp
........................
AG
Hex
AH
AI
Washerll!32xT/Sxli16
Lockwasher
5/16
AJ
Hex
Nut
AK
Pan
Hd. Screw
AL
Washer
AM
Lockwasher
1
AN
AO
Hex Nut
Handwheel
2
AP
Arbor
2
l
1
1
1
Hd. Screw
x 3/4
......
.........
...................
5/16-18
17/64
....................
1/4-20
x 5/8
4
4
4
x I ..........
x 1/32
4
.........
4
5
I/4 .....................
4
l/4-20 .....................
..........................
4
1
Wrenches
AG
AI
5/16-18
....................
_
2
@
0
AM
AN
Information
Building
the LEG SET
The following
assembly.
A
B
C
1. If you are missing any part while putting
your saw together, do not continue assembly.
Contact your Sears Service Center or Retail
Store and get the missing part before continuing assembly or trying to use the saw.
parts are used in the leg set
Legs
........................
Upper Stiffeners ...............
Lower Stiffeners
..............
A
/8
Complete parts listed are located at the end of
this manual. Use these lists to identify the
number of any missing part.
A
2. Sometimes
small parts get lost in packaging materials.
Do not throw away any packaging until your saw is put together. If you
are missing a part, check the packaging before contacting
Sears.
3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be
fastened together using truss head bolts, lockwashers and hex nuts of the sizes shown.
(Figure 12) When different sizes are needed,
the instructions
will include a sketch to help
you locate the correct size.
Fig. 12 - Truss Head Bolt, Lockwasher, Hex Nut
4. As you assemble your radial arm saw,
some of the holes in the parts will line up and
others will not. This happens because some
parts are used in other equipment or for other
purposes.
Follow the instructions
carefully.
The figures will show which holes should line
up in each step.
5. If it is difficult to get bolts through the
holes, you may need to use a Phillips screwdriver to help shift the parts into place.
4
4
4
\
C
Fig. 13 - Leg Set
1. Attach the four (4) legs to the four (4)
upper st_['eners
as shown.
Three (3) truss head
bolts,
washers,
and
nuts
are
each end of upper
tighten
hex nuts.
stiffener
2. Attach
the four
(4) lower
legs,
Two
(2) truss
nuts
are required
st_['ener
in place.
head
to hold
Hand
required
to fasten
to a leg. Hand
st(/Jbners
bolts,
each
tighten
to the
washers
end
hex
3. Move the leg set to the location
will use your saw.
and
of a lower
nuts.
where
you
4. Put a hex nut on each of the leveling feet.
(Figure 14)
Fig. 14 - Hex Nut for Leveling Foot
5. Put the leveling feet through
the bottom of the leg.
the holes in
10. Adjust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch
wrench until the leveling jbot is at the desired
height.
6. Put another hex nut on each of the leveling
,feet and hand-tighten until they are against
the leg.
11. Tighten the top nut by hand.
12. Repeat steps 8-11 for the other three leveling feet if necessary.
13. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16
inch wrench.
Leg
Nuts
Attaching Handwheel
Leveling
Foot
1. Place the handwheel on the front of the
saw. The front of the saw has a D-shaft that
fits into a D-slot in the handwheel.
Fig. 15
_lb WARNING:
2. Attach the handwheet
using a screw and
external lockwasher.
(Figures 16 & 17 )
Saw blade can roll for-
ward toward you if the leveling feet are
not correctly adjusted.
Workpiece
or
saw can move unexpectedly
if cabinet
rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off from blade contact. Adjust leveling
feet before using your saw.
7. If the leveling feet raise the front of the
saw slightly higher than the rear, and if the
leg set does not rock, go to step 13, or
If the leveling feet do not raise the front of the
saw slightly higher than the rear, go to step 8,
Handwheel
or
If the leg set
8.
Loosen
leveling
9.
go to step
the bottom
foot
Loosen
rocks,
using
the
hex
a 9/16
8.
Fig. 16
nut on the desired
inch
wrench.
©
top nut by hand.
Fig. 17 - Screw
10
and External Lockwasher
Mounting the Motor
8. Slide the motor onto the motor pivot support. Make sure the motor is firmly in place.
9.
_kWARNING:
Plugging the saw in during assembly can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during assembly. The saw should only be
plugged in when it is to be used.
1, Loosen the guard clamp
the guard from the motor.
screw and remove
2. Use the arbor
to remove
wrenches
Put the flat washer
and locknut
back in
place and tighten using a 3/4 inch socket
wrench. Move the bevel lock back and forth
as you tighten
tighten.
the locknut.
Do not over-
10. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it
will go. (Figure 19)
the
blade from the saw. The arbor shaft has lefthanded threads, so you will have to turn the
nut clockwise
to loosen.
3.
Lock
the rip lock.
4. Turn
the handwheeI
in a clockwise
direction
to raise
the
radial
about
and
remove
the
styrofoam
arm
2 inches
packing
blocks.
Fig. 19
5. Clean the small pieces
the saw.
of styrofoam
off
11.
If there
the bevel
6. Place the motor on the center channel
the saw.
of
(and
lock
they
the lock nut and fiat washer
the motor pivot
support.
(Figure
t'rol]]
yoke,
18)
and
the left
are not touching),
If the bevel
7. Remove
is a 1/16 inch
lock
unlock
touches
the bevel
locknut
on the motor
to step
9 and
or less
side
between
of the yoke
go to step
the left
lock
pivot
repeat,
gap
and
side
of the
tighten
support.
13, or
the
Then
go
or
If there is more than 1/16 inch gap between
the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke,
unlock the bevel lock and loosen
the locknut
-k_..__
on the motor
;t,
9 and
Fig. 18
11
repeat.
pivot
support.
Then
go to step
12. Repeat
steps
9-10
until the bevel
will not touch the left side of the yoke,
the gap
13.
is not more
Lock
the bevel
than
Attaching Trim Ledge and
Trim Caps
lock
and
1/16 inch.
l.
lock.
Hold
the trim
ledge
against
the front
of the
saw.
2.
Mounting the Saw
Reach
four
Tighten
21 &22)
1. Hold
back
the saw by the front
of the column
support,
edge
and the
and
lift it onto
the leg set. It may be necessary
someone
help you lift the saw.
four
holes
with
four
in the bottom
holes
2. Fasten
four truss
the top of the saw
to fasten
using
the trim ledge
a Phillips
and
use
in place.
screwdriver.
(Figures
that
of the saw line up
in the top of the leg set.
the saw to .the leg set with
head bolts. Put a lockwasher
hex nut on each bolt and tighten
inch wrench
or socket.
(Figure
to have
Make sure
through
screws
and
using
a 7/16
20)
Fi9.21
O=
Truss Head Bolt
Saw]
1]
Fig. 22- Phillips Head Screws
Leg Set
3. Hold the right trim cap in place
front side of the saw. (Figure
23)
kockwasher---_
Hex Nut _'1_
on the
]/
Lit
Fig. 20
3.
Check
set together
inch wrench
all the nuts
and tighten
or socket.
holding
them
the
using
leg
a 7/16
4.
two
Reach
Tighten
5.
12
through
screws
Repeat
the top of the saw
to hold
using
steps
the trim
a Phillips
3-4
with
and use
cap in place.
screwdriver.
the
left trim cap.
Location
and Function
of Controls
Fig 24 - Radial Saw Controls
On/Off
WARNING:
Switch
The saw can start ac-
cidentally or be used by children and
others when the yellow key is left in the
red switch. Always remove the yellow
key when the saw is off, and keep it out
of the reach and sight of children.
The on!off switch turns the power to the saw
on and off.
To turn the saw on, put the yellow key into
the nd switch and then pull the switch to the
right. To turn the saw off, push the md switch
to the left. Remove the yellow key from the
red switch whenever
the saw is turned of L and
keep it out of the reach and sight of children.
(Figure 25)
Z&
WARNING:
The saw will start immediately
when the power comes back
on after a blackout
if the red switch is
left on. Always turn the switch off and
remove the yellow key when the power
goes off for any reason.
Miter
Lock
The miter lock is used to hold the radial
at various angles to the fence.
arm
To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the
right. (Figure 26)
Fig. 25 - On/Off Switch
13
Bevel Lock
l-he bevel lock is used to hold the blade at
various angles to the table. To unlock the
bevel lock, move the lock to the right. Always
hold the motor when you unlock the bevd
lock. (Figure 28)
,CAUTION:
can
swing
or injured
down
quickly.
by the
arbor
Hold the motor
bevel lock.
Fig. 26
- Miter
Lock
The motor
when
is heavy
You can
shaft
you
and
be cut
or blade.
unlock
the
- Unlocked
To lock the miter lock, push the lock to the
left. (Figure 27)
Fig. 28 - Bevel Lock - Unlocked
To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the
left. (Figure 29)
Fig. 27 - Miter
Lock
- Locked
There are three pre-set miter angles
0°, and -45 °. You will feel the radial
at 45 °,
arm
snap into position at these miter angles. To
unlock the arm when it is in one of these pos>
tions, pull the miter lock all the way to the
right and move the ann as you hold the lock
in this position.
14
s_d_,el lock when the motor
positions, stand facing the
the swivel lock all the way
turn the motor as yon hold
position.
There are flve pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,
-45 °, 0°, 45 °, nnd 90 °. To unlock the bgvel
lock when the blade is at one of these angles,
move the bevel lock all the way to the right
and turn the motor while holding the lock in
this position.
Swivel
Rip Lock
Lock
The swivel lock is used to hold the blade
ig in one o[ these
saw handle, pull
toward you, and
the lock in this
The rip lock is used to hold the motor and
blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.
It is used during ripping to hold the blade a
desired distance from the fence while the
workpiece
is fed through. It is used before
and after each crosscut to keep the blade
from moving forward on its own.
in
the crosscut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and
to position the blade for molding or edging.
To unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the
saw handle and pull the swivel lock toward
you. (Figure 30)
To unlock the rip lock, pull the handle
the front of the arm. (Figure 32)
Frg. 30 - Swivel
Lock
- Unlocked
To lock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw
handle and push the swivel lock away from
you. (Figure 31)
Fig, 32- Rip Lock - Unlocked
To lock the rip lock, push the handle
the rear of the ann. (Figure 33)
Fig. 31 - Swivel Lock
toward
- Locked
The crosscut, in-rip, and out-rip positions of
the blade are pre-set positions. To unlock the
Fig. 33 - Rip Lock
15
- Locked
toward
Handwheel
The handwheel
radial arm.
controls
the height
of the
To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel
clockwise. To lower the radial arm, turn the
handwheel
counterclockwise.
(Figure
34)
Fig. 34 - Handwhee!
One complete turn of the handwheel
the arm 1/16 inch.
moves
The handle can be folded in by pushing the
red button while pushing the handle in.
All Controls
Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks
before making a cut on your radial arm saw.
When ripping, the rip lock must also be locked. When crosscutting,
the rip lock should be
locked before and after each cut, when the
saw is in the rearmost
position.
16
,
Alignment
ALIGNMENT
MOST
OF
THE
IMPORTANT
ASSEMBLING
BLADE
STEP
YOUR
of the Blade
IS THE
1. Use a 1/8" hex "'L" wrench
to loosen
four screws in the front of the column
IN
RADIAL
ARM
support.
(Figure
the
35)
SAW.
The blade of your radial arm saw must be
aligned
properly
for two reasons:
to make
cuts
accurate,
Made
thrown
and
and
to prevent
workpiece
which
binding
of the
can cause
jams
Four Socket
Screws
or
workpieces.
These adjustments
must be done in order,
before using your saw for the first time. If
they are not done in order the saw will not
cut accurately. If you miss an adjustment,
you
must go back to the adjustment
you missed
and repeat all steps from that point on.
Fig. 35
These adjustments
are like fine tuning a
piece of equipment.
Often a series of steps
must be repeated
more than once in order to
get the adjustment
just right.
2. Raise and lower the radial ann by turning
the handwheel a few turns in each direction.
tt should take about the same amount of effort to lower the arm as to raise it.
A
4UkWARNING:
Plugging the saw in
during alignment can result in electrical
shock or your fingers,
hand, or arm
being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during alignment. The saw should only be plugged
in when it is to be used.
Make sure that the blade and
removed from the arbor shaft
ning to align your saw. Do not
blade or blade guard until you
to do so.
Adjusting
3. If movement
smooth
and the
column does not rock back and forth, go to
the next section, or
If movement
seems difficult, loosen the four
bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 36) and go back to step 2, or
If column rocks back and forth, tighten the
four bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 36) and go back to step 2.
blade guard are
before begininstall the
are instructed
Elevation
The goal of this adjustment
is to make upward and downward movement
of the radial
arm smooth and firm. If the column that supports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to
move the ar_a up and down and to get accurate depth of cut. If the column is loose the
blade may "walk" on the workpiece
and stall
the motor, or cause a heel in bevel and compound cuts.
seems
Fig. 36
17
Leveling Table Supports
1. Raise
the motor
the
radial
is about
arm
until
2-1/2
the bottom
inches
above
of
6. Turn the motor until the arbor shaft is
pointing straight down toward the saw.
(Figure 38)
the
saw.
2. Locate fl)ur hex head bolts and put a flat
washer on each.
3. Attach a table support to each side of the
saw using the four hex head bolts and flat
washers.
(Figure 37) Put the bolts through the
center of the enlarged holes in the table supports so that the supports may slide up or
down as needed.
Arbor
Lockwasher
Nut
Table Support
Wrench
Rear Bolt
Table
Support
Fig. 38
Screws
Here
7. Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor
in
this position.
8. Unlock
Flat Washer
the left as far as it will go (about
Hex Head Bolt
Front
t0
___j
the left table
I 1. Place
over
and
hex
nut on each
(Figure
38)
the handle
this point
and
end
lower
of the arbor
the
arm
until
un-
wrench
the
arbor shaft is just touching
the wrench.
The
wrench
should
slide back and forth with slight
contact.
(Figure
38)
Fig. 37A
and
support.
10. Mark the point on the table support
der the center of the arbor shaft.
©©
Put a lockwasher
50 ° miter).
9. Unlock
the rip lock and move the motor
until the arbor shaft is over the rear bolt on
Mount Support
Using These Holes
Fig. 37
4.
the miter lock and move the arm to
bolt
hand-tighten.
12. Tighten the bolt under
1/2 inch wrench.
5. Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor.
Hold onto the motor as you do this,
13. Move the arm and motor until the arbor
shaft is over the front bolt on the left table
support. Do not change the elevation of the
arm as you move from point to point.
(Figure 39)
,fk
CAUTION:
The motor
is heavy
and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the arbor shaft hits you. Hold
the motor
lock.
when
you unlock
this point using a
the bevel
18
0
r) 0
I[ the arbor
arbor
repeat
level,
0
wrench
will not fit between
shaft and the table support
at any
steps 8-21 until the table supports
or
the
point,
are
If there is a gap between the arbor wrench
and the arbor shaft at any point, repeat steps
8-21 until the table supports are level.
_L._]_,_
-
j
. _
_
Front Bolt
Support
Table
Rear Bolt
I orWrench
Fig. 39
14. Mark the point on the table support under the center of the arbor shaft. (Figure 40)
15.
Place
the
handle
over
this point.
16.
Slide
the
end
(Figure
front
of the arbor
40)
end
of the table
up or down
until
wrench
fits between
this point
The
should
arbor
and
just
shaft.
forth
with
the handle
wrench
slight
Repeat
steps
over
the front
and
end
support
of the
and
slide
Rear Bolt
Table Support
arbor
the
back
Fig. 40
contact.
17. Tighten the bolt under
1/2 inch wrench.
18.
wrench
13-17
rear
with
bolts
this point using a
the arbor
shaft
on the right
table
support.
Slide the rear end of the table support up or down when the arbor shaft is over
the rear
bolt (see
step
16).
19. Move the arbor shaft over all four points
again.
20.
Place the handle
end of the arbor
wrench
over each point and make sure that the arbor
shaft just touches the wrench. The wrench
should slide back and forth with slight contact.
21.
If the arbor
wre_tch
at each
shaft
point,
just touches
go to the next
the arbor
section,
or
19
Mounting
the Front Table
1. Make sure that the front table is upside
down.
:rew
g Hole
2. Place a tee nut over the leveling hole and
hammer it into place. (Figure 41)
Bolt
Tee Nut --.--_/_..
[
Leveling
Ho,e_
Head Screw
.F_ -
Loc
Hex Nut
Fig. 41
Mounting
Holes
Fig. 45
5.
Start
the cup point
leveling
46)
hole.
set screw
Do not tighten.
through
(Figures
the
45 &
Fig. 42 - Nut Tee
3.
Slide
a U-clip
onto
the saw as shown.
the center
(Figure
channel
of
43)
Fig. 46 - Cup Point Set Screw
6.
Put a washer
holes,
in each
(Figures
of the mounting
45 &47)
G
Fig. 47 - Washer for Mounting Holes
7.
Fig.4a
Start
the center
(Figures
a pan
head
mounting
machine
hole.
screw
45 &48
Fig. 44 - u Clip
4. Place the front table on the saw so that the
mounting holes in the table line up with holes
in the table supports and center
channel
o[
saw, (Figure 45)
Fig. 48 - Pan Head Machine Screw
20
through
Do not tighten.
8.
Install
the pan
head
other four mounting
and hex nut on each
Phillips
bolts
through
holes.
Put a lockwasher
bolt and tighten
using
screwdriver.
(Figures
13. If there is a gap larger
back to step 11 and repeat,
the
than 1/32 inch,
or
go
a
If there is a gap less than 1/32 inch, or no gap
at all, go to the next section.
45 & 49)
Mounting
The following
table clamps:
Fig. 49 - Pan Head Bolt
9. Lay the edge of the rear table across the
center of the front table, and check to see if
there is a gap between the two. (Figure 50)
A
B
C
Table Clamps
parts are used in mounting
Table Clamps ..................
Washer .......................
Locknut
......................
the
2
2
2
Fig.51
1. Place the table clamp in the hole provided
at the rear of the right table support. (Figure
52)
2. Put a washer
Fig. 50
10.
If there
to step
is a gap
larger
than
1/32 inch,
and locknut
on the table
clamp and tighten using a 1/2 inch wrench
socket. (Figure 52)
go
11, or
Table Clamp
If there is a gap less than 1/32 inch, or no gap
at all, tighten the leveling screw and the center mounting screw. Do not overtighten.
Then
go to step 12.
Table Support
l 1. If the gap is at the center of the table,
tighten the leveling screw until the gap is
gone. Then tighten the center mounting screw
and go to step 12, or
If the gap
the center
gone.
Then
to step
12.
center
is at the
mounting
tighten
sides of the table, tighten
screw until the gap is
the leveling
screw
and go
12.
Lay
the edge
of the front
of the rear
table
and
table
check
across
again
the
3. Repeat steps l and 2 with the left table
clamp. (Figure 52)
for
gaps.
21
or
4. Unlock
Squaring Crosscut
until
Travel
is making
position
and
2. Raise
the radial
lock
the front
table.
3. Unlock
the
so that
(Figure
the
8. Move
miter lock and bevel
very light contact
the framing
arbor
until
other.
(Figure
with front
arbor
table.
the arbor
square
and
toward
square
the motor
touch
each
54)
9. Unlock
the rip lock and move the motor
arbor back and forth along the radial arm
lock.
arm about
2 inches
shown
above
by the arrows.
framing
arbor
table.
in the 0 ° miter
the miter
bevel
the motor
the front
7. Lay a framing square on the front table
with the long edge along the back of the table
and the short edge alongside the motor arbor.
(Figure 54)
_IbWARNING:
Plugging in the saw during alignment can result in your fingers,
hands, or arm being cut off from blade
contact. Do not plug in the saw at any
time during alignment. The saw should
only be plugged in when it is to be used.
arm
and move
is over
6. Lower the radial arm until the motor
perpendicular
to the fence, there will be a
slight miter angle in all crosscuts.
the radial
arbor
5. Lock the rip lock,
lock.
The blade must travel perpendicular
to the
fence along the radial arm in order for crosscuts to be accurate.
If the radial arm is not
I. Place
the rip lock
the motor
lock,
and
is perpendicular
turn
Do
not move
as
the
square.
10. If the motor arbor just touches the square
at all points, no change is needed. Go to step
14, or
the motor
to the table.
53).
If the motor
square
step
or tries
l 1. (Figure
Fig. 53
Fig. 54
22
arbor
moves
to "walk"
54)
away
from
the
on top of it, go to
11. Use
four
a 1/8"
screws
slightly,
hex
"L"
in the front
if you have
Adjusting
wrench
of the column
not
Elevation
to loosen
already
section.
radial arm is smooth
17.
the
support
done
(Figure
but firm. Then go to step
so in the
17. Lay a framing square on the front table
with the long edge along the back of the table
and the short edge alongside the motor arbor,
as before.
55)
Four Socket
Head Screws
18. Move the framing square toward the
motor arbor until the arbor and square touch.
19. Move the motor
arbor back
and forth
along the radial arm. Do not move the square.
20. If the motor arbor just touches the edge of
the square at all points, go to step 21, or
J
If the motor arbor moves away from the edge
of the square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go
back to step 12 and repeat.
12. Use the top two screws to move the radial
arm into line:
If the motor
square,
arbor
tighten
moved
the top
arm to the left. Then
to meet
If the
right
from
screw
tighten
the column.
motor
away
tried
to move
the
the top left screw
Go to step
arbor
21. Set miter indicator on 0 ° position as
shown. (Figure 55-A)
the
22. Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence
and rear table back in place, lock the table
clamp, and go to the next section.
13, or
to "walk"
on the
square,
tighten
the top left screw to move the
arm to the right. Then tighten
the top right
screw
to meet
13. Move
radial
the column.
the motor
arm.
just
Then
go to step
14. Tighten
the column
left several
back
Repeat
arbor
touches
Go to step
step
and
forth
12 until
the square
13.
along
the
the motor
at all points.
14.
the bottom
screws
in the front
support,
switching
from right
times so that you do not force
of
Fig. 55-A
to
the
radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten
or
it will be difficult
to raise and lower the radial
Squaring Blade to Table
for Crosscutting
arm.
15. Raise
difficult,
and
lower
loosen
the radial
the four
the column
support
Loosen
all of these
of
slightly and try again.
screws the same amount
so
step
the
15 until
screws
If this is
in the front
that you do not force
line.
16. Repeat
arm.
radial
movement
arm
These steps are necessary
so that your blade
will be perpendicular
to the table and cuts
will be accurate. If this is not done correctly,
your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.
out of
of the
23
I. Place
the radial
position
and
arm
lock the
in the
miter
0 ° miter
lock.
2. Place the
blade collar
directional
blade,
arrow
and
front
blade on the arbor shaft
on each side. Make sure
side
is on the outside
the teeth
are pointing
of the blade.
(Figure
6. Turn
with a
that the
and
of the
down
the
check
blade
with your
hand
to see if the square
several
is flush
times
with
the
blade.
at the
7. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure
57) Go to the next section, or
55B)
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation (Figure 57), go to step
8. Note: Saw blades are manufactured
to
different specifications.
Therefore a small gap
is permissible on some brands.
/
Right
_j_
"Fable
Wrong
Fig. 5513
3. Place the arbor nut on the arbor shaft and
use the arbor wrenches to tighten. The arbor
shaft has left-handed
threads, so you will
have to turn the nut counterclockwise
to
tizhten.
nuts may
warp and
ting. Use
the arbor
4. Lock
the
Overtightening
clamps
F_u__U
_
Table
Fig, 57
the arbor
8. Unlock
cause the blade collars to
the blade to wobble while cutthe arbor wrenches to tighten
nuts but do not overtighten.
table
Wrong
Squarel_
J
,_
Table
Do not overtighten.
CAUTION:
_
and
the bevel
lock,
but do not move
the
motor.
9. Loosen the four screws behind the yoke
using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench. (Figure 58)
rip lock.
5. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade. Make sure that the square is against the
blade surface and not the set of a tooth.
Framin
Square
Fig. 58
_
Fence
10. Hold the square in place and move the
motor slowly until the square is flush with the
blade.
Rip Lock
Fig. 56
24
11. Hold
the
lock.
not let the motor
Do
motor
tightly
and
lock
move
the bevel
If there
out of place.
blade
is a gap
after
between
the square
any rotation,
go back
and
the
to step
8 and
repeat.
12. Check the square
to make
still flush with the blade.
sure
that
it is
21. Install
one end
13. Tighten
the
four
screws
behind
the yoke.
indicator
place.
14. Raise
the
1/2 inches
radial
above
15. Unlock
the bevel
to the 45 ° bevel
can swing
or injured
until
the blade
is I-
and
move
(Figure
indicator
to one side
Tabs
opening.
scale
the opening
Adjust
push
yoke.
until
on the outside
indicator
(Figure
by inserting
in the
and
are located
to 0 ° position.
lock
position.
CAUTION:
motor
arm
the table.
bevel
into
by sliding
Slide
the
it snaps
in
of the
red line
60)
the motor
59)
The motor is heavy
and
down quickly.
You can be cut
if the blade hits you. Hold the
when
you unlock
the
bevel
lock.
Fig. 60
Squaring
Blade
to Fence
These steps are done so that your blade will
be perpendicular
to the fence. This will help
reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and
splintering
of the workpiece
and burning of
the kerf when ripping and crosscutting.
Fig. 59
16. Move
position
and
17. Lower
above
the motor
to the 0 ° bevel
the bevel
the radial
arm
lock.
until
the
blade
is just
the table.
18. Place
the
on the table
blade
lock
back
Fig. 60-A - Squaring Blade to Fence
long edge
and
as before.
the
of the flaming
short
Make
edge
sure
of the blade
19. Turn
with
the blade
times and check
with the blade.
your
against
the square
against
the surface
of a tooth.
and
hand
to see if the square
1. Put the radial
square
with
the
(Figure
is
not the
set
just
in the 0 ° miter
in front
position
of the fence.
60-A)
2. Lock the @ lock.
3. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above
the arbor sh@. Make sure that tlne edge of
the square is on the blade and not on the set
of a tooth. (Figure 60-A)
several
is flush
20. If the square is flush with the blade
each rotation,
go to Step 21, or
the blade
ann
after
25
4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation,
no change is needed. (Figure
61) Go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation, go to step 6.
(Figure 61 )
Fence
I
Right
il
Fence
i!
Wron0
'L-
Fig. 62
8. Hold the square in place and turn the
motor until the square is flush with the blade.
_)
9. Hold the saw handle
swivel lock.
Fence
10. Check the square to make sure it is still
flush with the blade.
i{l'--
Wron0
11. Tighten the four screws under
using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench.
Fig. 61
6. Unlock
tightly and lock the
the swivel lock.
the yoke
12. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above
the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the
edge of the square is on the blade and not on
the set of a tooth.
7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke
using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if
necessary.
(Figure 62)
_I_WARNING:
The hex-L wrench may
break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety goggles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.
13. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
14. If the square is flush with. the blade after
each rotation, go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
26
and the
Squaring
1. Unlock
4. Turn the blade v_ith your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Blade to Table for
Ripping
the swivel lock and turn the motor
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation
(Figure 65) go to step 11, or
to the out-rip position with the motor between the blade and fence. (Figure 63)
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation
(Figure 65), go to
step 6.
i
Right
Table
Fence
If
<rrM
°t% r_t'
Wrong
Table
Fig. 63 - Out-rip
2. Lock swivel
lock
1
ence
Wrong
_lu-<_
Table
Position
and
Fig. 65
rip lock.
6. Loosen
3. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade alongside the arbor sh@. Make sure
the square is against the surface of the blade
and not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 64)
the hex nut on the
rear carriage
bearing. Use a 9116 inch wrench
to hold the
bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench
to loosen
the nut.
(Figure
Fig. 66
Fig. 64
27
Illlllllll
)_.__F_
66)
Fence
hand. Try to keep
turning.
7. Hold the square in place and use the 9/16
inch wrench to turn the bolt until the square
is flush with the blade.
the carriage bearing from
the hex
15. If you can keep either of the carriage bearings from turning while the motor moves
along the radial arm, go to step 16, or
9. Turn the blade several times and check to
see if the square is still flush with the blade.
If you cannot keep the carriage bearings from
turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.
10. If the square is flush with the blade
each rotation, go to step 11, or
16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each carriage bearing, and the track they ride on, with
a cloth to remove sawdust and other debris.
Oil if necessary.
8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten
nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
after
and the
17. Loosen tile hex nut on the carriage bearing that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to
hold the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen
the nut.
11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
as far back as it will go.
12. Pinch the front carriage bearing, with your
fingers as tightly as possible while you pull
the motor forward with the other hand. Try. to
keep the carriage bearing from turning.
(Figure 67)
18. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench
until the looseness is gone.
19. Hold the bolt firmly with the 9/16 inch
wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2
inch wrench. Do not overtighten.
20. Adjust the other carriage bearing by the
same amount so that the blade will still be
square
with the table.
21. Repeat steps 11-15 to make sure that the
carriage bearings are not still loose.
22. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade just above the arbor shaft, as before.
Make sure the square is against the surface of
the blade and not on the set of a tooth.
23. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Fig. 67
13. Move
the motor
as far forward
as it will
24. I[ the square
the next section,
go.
14. Pinch the rear carriage bearing with your
fingers as tightly as possible while you pull
the motor toward the rear with the other
is flush with the blade, go to
or
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
28
and the
Making
Blade Parallel
Table
to
These steps are done to help prevent the
workpiece from being thrown or damaged
when the saw is used for edging.
/
Saw Handle
Fig. 69
6. Lower the radial arm until the blade just
rests on the edge of the framing square.
Make sure that the square is on the blade
and not on the set of a tooth.
7. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Fig. 68
1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position.
8. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation
(Figure 70) go to step 18, or
2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2
inches above
the front table.
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation
(Figure 70) go to
step 9.
3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor
so that the blade is parallel to the table.
(Figure 68)
CAUTION:
The motor
is heavy
Right
and
Square
,,,_
-,_--:-_--%.- Motor
II
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the
motor when you unlock the bevel lock.
FenC_r_
_ffL___
Table
4. Lock
the
bevel
lock,
rip lock
and
swivel
Wrong
lock.
Square
5. Place the corner of the framing square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air. Make sure that the
long edge is perpendicular
to the fence.
(Figure 120)
Table
Fig. 70
29
Wrong
Square
Table
9. Unlock
the bevel lock.
16. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
10. Loosen the two screws on the back of the
motor support using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench
and pliers if necessary. (Figure 71)
17. If the square is flush with the blade
each rotation, go to step 18, or
WARNING:
The hex-L wrench may
break when used with pliers to loosen
screws, Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety goggles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.
after
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.
18. Snap the motor support cap into the back
of the motor support. The cap is in the loose
parts bag. (Figure 72)
Saw
Handle
Saw
/
Handle
Motor Support
Capscrews
Motor Support
Fig. 71
Fig. 72
11. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower
the bottom side of the motor support until the
square is flush with the blade.
12. Hold
lock.
the motor
Installing
Guard / Setting
Spreader
firmly and lock the bevel
The blade guard and the spreader are very
important
safety features of your saw. The
guard covers a large part of the blade and
reduces the risk of amputation.
The spreader
rides in the kerf of the cut wood during ripping, and helps keep the two sides from
pinching the blade and causing a kickback.
13. Check the square to make sure that it is
still flush with the blade.
14. Tighten the two screws on the back of the
motor support.
15. Place the corner of the framing square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure
that the long edge is perpendicular
to the
fence.
&LWARNING:
Fingers, hand, or arm
can be cut off from blade contact if the
blade guard is not used properly. Always put the blade guard on your saw
and adjust it correctly.
30
tk
41& WARNING:
Kickback can occur if
the spreader is not in line with the
blade. You can be injured or killed. Always adjust the spreader and make sure
that it is directly in line with the blade.
3. Make sure that the lower edge of the guard
is parallel to the table. (Figure 75)
4. Tighten
the guard clamp screw.
5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor
to the in-rip position, with the blade between
the motor and the fence. (Figure 75)
1. Loosen the guard clamp screw until it no
longer touches the metalplate. (Figure 73)
J
Guard Clamp Screw
Metal Plate
Fig. 73
2. Place the guard over the blade. You will
feel the guard fall into place when the ridge
on the inside of the guard slides into the slot
on the motor. (Figure 74)
Fig. 75 - In-rip Position
6. Lock the swivel lock.
7. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just
above the table.
8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
back until the blade touches the fence.
9. Lock the rip lock.
10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the
spreader in place.
/
Fi9.74
11. Lower the spreader and antikickback
pawls until the spreader is against the fence,
and thepawls
on one side of the spreader are
on top of the fence. (Figure 76)
31
13. Loosen both nuts on the spreader
1/2 inch wrench.
using a
I
Guard
14. Slide the spreader with your hand until it
is against the fence directly behind the blade.
Antikickback
Pawls
15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch
wrench. Do not move the spreader as you
tighten these nuts.
Spreader
Fence
16. Check the blade and spreader again to
make sure that they are both against the
fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat.
Table
/
17. Once the blade and spreader are in line,
raise the spreader up to the guard and tighten
the wing screw to hold it in place.
Fig. 76
12. If the spreader and blade both rest against
the fence, no adjustment
is needed. (Figure
77 -A) Go to step 17, or
18. Unlock
the rip lock.
19. Pull the motor forward so that the blade is
away from the fence and lock the rip lock.
If the spreader is in front of the fence but not
touching it (Figure 77-B), go to step 13, or
20. Unlock
If the spreader hits the top of the fence
(Figure 77:-C), go to step 13.
the swivel lock
21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon
with the blade and arm perpendicular to the
fence.
A - Right
22. Lock
Pawl -_(
Fence .----._-
- Spreader
Tabl_
Saw Blade
B - Wron,
C - Wrong
Pawl
-Spreader
Fence
_aable r
*'_
Saw Blade
Pawl--,
Fence ---Table
"--Spreader
x
Saw Blade
Fig. 77 - A,B,C
32
the swivel lock.
Installing
tors
and Adjusting
3. Measures 2" from rip fence to nearest
tooth on the blade and lock rip lock handle.'
Rip Scale Indica-
4. Adjust "out rip" scale indicator by sliding until indicator line reads 2 inches on the
upper of the two "out rip" scales as illustrated. Out rip scales are located on left side
of arm.
NOTE: The rip scales indicators are intended
to be used for quick settings. Adjustments
will be necessary
for blades of different thicknesses. For greater accuracy take direct measurements between blade and fence with ruler
or measuring tape.
1.
Locate
bag and
ets.
rip scale
slide
indicators
indicators
onto
in a loose
mounting
5. Unlock
rip lock
from fence.
Unlock
parts
the motor to the IN-RIP
position.
swivel
lock. Push the motor until
brack-
rests
2. Unlock
the swivel
blade into the OUT-RIP
swivel lock.
and move blade
the swivel
lock
against
away
and rotate
Lock the
the blade
the fence.
lock and move the
position.
6. Adjust "in-rip"
scale indicator (located
on right side of arm) by sliding until indicator
line reads "0" inches.
Lock the
Inches
Fig. 78- Out-Rip Saw Position (Infeed End)
33
Electrical
Connections
_'_ WARNING:
Motor Specifications
Power
_lb WARNING:
or fire, if
power cord is worn, cut, or damaged
any way have it replaced immediately.
The AC motor used in this saw is a capacitorstart, non-reversible
type having the following
specifications:
Rated H.P ..........................
Maximum
Developed
H.P .............
Voltage
...........................
Amperes
..........................
Hertz (cycles)
.......................
Phase ...........................
RPM .............................
Rotation of Arbor Shaft .........
To avoid shock
Your unit
that looks
79)
1.5
2.5
120
11.5
60
Single
3450
Clockwise
is wired
like the
in
for 120V and it has a plug
one shown
below. (Figure
3-Prong
Plug
Supply
Your saw is wired
at
Grounding
the factory for 120V operation. Connect
to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and
use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit
breaker. Failure to connect in this way
can result in injury from shock or fire.
Prong
Properly
Grounded
Outlet
Fig. 79 - Plug for Less Than 150V
This power
Your saw must be properly grounded.
Not all
outlets are properly grounded.
If you are not
sure that your outlet is properly grounded,
have it checked by a qualified electrician.
tool
conductor
cord
by Underwriters'
_I= WARNING:
If not properly
grounded this power tool can cause
electrical shock, particularly when used
in damp locations.
is equipped
and grounding
l.aboratories.
conductor
has a green
to the toot
housing
ground
prong
other end.
with
in the
jacket
at one
end
attachment
a 3-
type plug listed
The ground
and
is attached
and
to the
plug
at the
This plug requires a mating 3-conductor
grounded type outlet as shown above. If you
have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it
is recommended that you have a qualified
electrician replace the it with a properly
grounded three prong outlet.
A"L
-dlIWARNINL_:
If an electrical shock occurs, your reaction to the shock may
bring your hands into contact with the
blade.
34
_1_ WARNING:
Extension
To maintain proper
tool grounding, whenever the outlet you
are planning to use for this power tool
is of the two prong type do not remove
or alter the grounding prong in any manner.
The use of any extension cord will cause
some loss of power. Use the following table
to determine
the minimum
wire size
(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire extension cords which have 3-prong grounding
type plugs and 3-pole receptacles
which accept the tool's plug.
An adapter is available for connecting
plug to
2-prong receptacles.
The green grounding
lead extending from the adapter must be connected to a permanent
ground such as to a
properly grounded
outlet box. (Figure 80)
Grounding
Cords
Length
of
Conductor
Wire sizes Required
(American
Wire Gage No.)
120V Lines
Lug
0 - 25 feet
No. 16
26 - 50 feet
No. 14
51 - 100 feet
No. 12
/
3-Prong
Plug _"; /
Make Sure This Is
Connected
To A
Known Ground
For circuits that are farther away from electrical circuit box, the wire size must be increased proportionately
in order to deliver
ample voltage to the saw motor.
2-Prong
Receptacle
Adapter
Fig. 80 - Adapter for 2-Prong Receptacles
WARNING:
The adapter
illustrated
is for use only if you already have a
properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.
35
Crosscutting
Crosscutting
is used to cut a workpiece
to
length. The workpiece
is held against the
fence. The saw blade is pulled through the
workpiece.
Cuts are usually made across the
grain of the workpiece.
Types
of Crosscuts
The basic types of crosscuts are shown below.
Notice the hand and body position in each.
Fig. 83 Bevel Crosscut
i i
Fig. 81 Straight
Crosscut
Fig. 84 Compound Crosscut
Mit(.r
Fig. 85 Basic
Fig. 82 Miter
Crosscut
36
Crosscuts
Bevel
Safety Information
Crosscutting
4. Fingers or hand can slip into the saw
blade as you make a crosscut. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the
hand holding the workpiece
at least 8 inches to the side of the workpiece,
out of
the path of the saw blade.
Keep hand
holding the workpiece
in view at all
times.
for
Read and follow the safety information
before making any type of crosscut.
below
WARNING
1. Set guard and anti-kickback
pawls to
proper height to serve as a partial barrier.
2. The saw blade
can throw
5. The blade can come completely
off
table edge beyond
the 30 ° left miter
position.
Fingers, hands, arms or legs
can be cut off. Use the right miter position whenever possible to make miter
crosscuts.
the
workpiece
over the fence if the blade is
pushed backwards
into workpiece.You
or others can be hit and injured by the
thrown workpiece.
Start a crosscut
with
the blade in its rearmost
position.
3. If the
blade
is pulled
workpiece
beyond
blade,
it can:
through
the
middle
6. The blade continues to turn for about
12 seconds after the saw is turned
off. Wait for the blade to stop
reaching for the workpiece.
the
of the
7. If length stops are used on the cut-off
end of workpiece,
the cut-off end can
be thrown by the blade. The workpiece
could hit and injure you or others in the
area. Do not use a length stop on the
cut-off end of the workpiece.
Use a
length stop only on the end of the
workpiece
which is held down.
• pick up and throw the cut-off section of the workpiece which could
hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;
• lift or move
the
held-down
section
of the workpiece
and pull your
hand into the blade
as the blade
is returned.
Pull
the
through
the workpiece
tance
shown
below.
saw
before
8. Holding on to or touching the cut off
end of the workpiece while the saw
blade is still turning can cause the
workpiece
to pinch the blade.
The
workpiece
can be thrown and hit and injure you or others in the area. Do not
touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cutoff piece of the workpiece
while the
power is on or the saw blade is turning.
blade
to the
dis-
9. The saw can throw the workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade
violently.
You can be blinded.
Wear
safety goggles.
Fig. 86 Blade Distance
to Complete
Crosscut
37
Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback
Pawls and Spreader
10. The workpiece
cannot be controlled
or held stable enough to do free hand
cutting. The workpiece
can be thrown or
slip and pull fingers and hand into the
saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut
off. Set the radial arm to the desired
The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and
spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate
the risk of injury from contact with the upper
half of the blade and the leading edge of the
blade when:
cutting angle. Keep workpiece flat on
table and solidly against the fence.
11. Saw parts loosen and wear with
use. You or others can be injured. Keep
all parts tight and in working order.
• the guard
and;
position
the pawls and spreader are set to
clear the top of the fence and
workpiece by about 1/8 inch.
12. The fence must be of at least equal
height to the workpiece or else the
workpiece can be lifted or thrown and hit
and injure you or others in the area. See
Cutting Accessories
section for instructions to make a fence.
The Blade Guard:
• provides protection
from contact
the upper half of the blade;
13. The blade will try to pull itself
through the workpiece.
Be prepared to
hold the saw handle back to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.
• helps keep the workpiece
ming in the guard and;
14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or
else the blade will suddenly come
toward you when you lower it to make a
crosscut.
The Anti-kickback
Bar,
Pawls
with
from jam-
• helps catch or deflect workpiece
or pieces of the blade.
15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep
one hand on the saw handle to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.
16. Cutting more than one workpiece
at
a time can cause you to lose control of
the workpieces,
which can be thrown
and hit and injure you or others in the
area. Cut only one workpiece at a time.
Do not stack or lay workpieces
edge to
edge.
is in the horizontal
chips
and Spreader:
• serve as a partial barrier to provide
protection
from contact with the leading edge of the blade.
AI_ WARNING:
To reduce
the risk of
contact with the upper half of the blade
and keep the workpiece
from jamming
in the guard, set the blade guard in the
horizontal position. Fig. 90.
38
Crosscutting
Checklist
Use the following checklist
of each new cutting period
of an accident.
Cutting Table and Fence
Kerfs
at the beginning
to reduce the risk
You will need to cut a new table kerf (shallow cut) and fence kerf (slot left in the fence
from sawing through it with the blade), each
time a new cutting angle is used. The table
kerr lets the blade cut all the way through a
workpiece.
Arm Slopes to the rear and table level side
tO side.
_bor
nut snug.
Fence secure,
condition.
Fence
solid (knot free)
in correct
and in good
Fig. 87 Table and Fence Kerfs
Note: To extend the life of your table top,
you can make an additional
table top. See
Helpflfl Hints section.
table position.
Workpiece
does not extend
of the fence.
above
the top
All saw parts are tight and working.
Saw blade
in desired
crosscut
Making
ting
position
Table and Fence
Kerfs for Crosscut-
and
To make a crosscut kerf in your table and
fence:
Blade guard
Anti-kickback
horizontal.
pawls
and
spreader
workpiece
1. Put your fence between the front table and
spacer board. Lock the table locks.
set to
clear top of fence
about
I '8 inch.
and/or
by
Swivel, rip, miter,
locked.
bevel and table locks
2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, behind the fence.
Read and follow instructions
of crosscut you want to do.
3. Lock rip lock.
for the type
39
A
WARNING:
The saw blade
will sud-
8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm
in line with the saw handle as shown below.
denly come toward you when lowered
into the table if the rip lock is unlocked.
Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock
the rip lock before and after each
crosscut.
Fig. 90 Crosscut
Blade Guard and Body Position
/'k
All WARNING:
Saw blade can suddenly come toward you when turned on.
Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.
Keep one hand on the saw handle at all
times.
Fig. 88 Locked Position for Rip Lock
4. Lower the radial
most touches
arm until the blade
al-
the table top.
9. Turn the saw on.
5. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet. Check
Electrical Connections section of manual if
you are not sure the outlet is grounded.
6. Wear safety goggles
on the package.
_i,
WARNING:
labeled
10. Lower the saw arm slowly until the blade
touches the table.
ANSI Z87.1
11. Turn the handwheel
another 1/2 turn
more. This will let you make a 1/32 to 1/16
inch kerr in the table.
The saw can throw
the
workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces
the blade
violently.
You can be
blinded. Wear safety goggles.
12. Unlock rip lock.
of
13. Pull the saw blade forward through the
fence and along the table as far as it will go.
14. Return the saw blade to its rearmost
tion behind the fence.
15. Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the
saw handle.
can be blinded.
Wear safety
goggles.
Fig. 89 Safety
7. Insert yellow
Goggles
posi-
16. Wait for blade to stop turning.
Safety Sign
17. Lock rip lock.
key into the red switch.
18. Remove yellow key from red switch.
40
4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickback
pawls to clear top of fence and workpiece
by
about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help
provide protection
from the leading edge of
blade.
Making Crosscuts
The following section contains safety information and instructions
for making crosscuts.
Anyone who uses your saw should read and
follow these steps.
5. Plug saw into grounded
WARNING:
The blade guard must be
horizontal to provide protection from
contact with the upper half of the blade
and avoid the workpiece being jammed in
the blade. Set the blade guard in the
horizontal position. Fig. 90.
6. Put on safety goggles.
7. Place the workpiece
9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your
forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.
a'k
41&WARNING:
pawls to clear the top of the fence and
workpiece
by about 1/8 inch.
_WARNING:
0
If the saw blade is pulled
through the workpiece
beyond
dle of the saw blade, it can:
A as shown and
I
The saw blade tries to
pull itself through the workpiece.
Be
prepared to hold saw handle back to
keep the saw blade from coming toward
you. Keep one hand on the saw handle
at all times.
WARNING:
The fence must be at
least equal height or higher than the
workpiece
you are going to cut or else
the workpiece
can be thrown and injure
you or others in the area. Install a fence
of at least equal height to the workpiece.
1. Put your fence in position
lock the table locks.
against the fence.
8. Unlock rip lock.
_1_ DANGER:
The anti-kickback
pawls
serve as a barrier for the leading edge
or the blade.
Set the anti-kickback
A
outlet.
• pick up and throw the cut-off section of the workpiece
which could
hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;
o
. lift or move the held-down
position,
section
of the workpiece
and draw your
hand into the blade as the blade
is returned.
Fig. 91 Fence Position for Crosscut
2. Push the saw to the rearmost
hind the fence.
the mid-
be-
3. Lower the blade into but not touching the
table kerr.
41
Pull the saw blade through
workpiece
to the distance
the
shown
12. Support
and against
hand.
below.
and hold the workpiece down
the fence firmly with your left
13. Pull blade through fence and workpiece
just enough to complete
the cut. Fig 92.
14. Return saw to its rearmost position and
continue to hold the saw handle.
15. Turn saw off.
16. Wait for the blade
17. Remove
Fig. 92 Distance
10. Insert
Needed
to Complete
to stop turning.
yellow key form red switch.
Crosscut
yellow key into red switch.
Repetitive
Crosscuts
11. Turn saw on.
To make
_IL WARNING:
Saw blade
can be
repetitive
1. Use two pieces
lumber.
pulled into or over fingers or
hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.
Keep hand holding the workpiece
at
least 8 inches to the left of, and out of
the path of the saw blade. Keep hand in
view at all times.
of 1 inch by 2 by 2 inch
2. Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each
side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.
3. Clamp
necessary
pieces of lumber at the distance
to complete
the crosscut.
i!iji!ili_<!!!!!iiii!iii_i;
Fig. 93 Hand Placement
crosscuts:
for Crosscuts
Fig. 95
42
Ripping
When
Ripping is used to change the width of the
workpieee
by sawing along its length. The
workpiece
is fed into the saw blade. The
fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually
made with the grain of the workpiece.
Saw Positions
to Use
In-Rip
or Out-Rip
The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece
and your
hands than does the out-rip saw position.
The only time you should use the out-rip saw
position is when the workpiece
is 14 inches
or wider. Use the in-rip position for all
workpieces
less than 14 inches wide.
for Ripping
There are two saw blade positions for making
rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.
In in-rip position, motor is toward the front
of the table, and blade is toward the fence.
Workpiece
Positioning
for Ripping
Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece
is between the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece,
set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do
not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece
by setting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.
_ILWARNINt_:
inches
and
6 inches
will be brought
Fingers
stick.
Fig. 96
In out-rip position,
the blade is toward
In-Rip
Saw Position
If the blade
from
too close
and hand
is set between
the fence,
to the
2
hands
blade.
can be cut off. Use
a push
For example, if the workpiece
is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push
stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 inches. See Cutting Accessories
section on how
to make and use a push stick.
motor is toward fence and
the front of the table.
_1_ WARNING:
If the blade is set between
1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands
will be brought too close to the blade.
Fingers/hand
can be cut off. Use an auxiliary
fence/push block.
Fig, 97 Out-Rip
Saw Fosition
(Infeed
For example, if the workpiece
is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary
fence. See Cutting Accessories
section.
End)
A_
AilkWARNIN_:
Stand only at infeed end
of saw. Feed workpiece
only into infeed
end of saw as shown above.
43
Safety
Information
Ripping
2. One of the most
for
workpiece
could kickback
as you reach
for, touch or try to pull the workpiece
through
the blade. You can lose your
fingers,
hand, or arm. The blade guard
does NOT provide complete
protection
at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach
for the workpiece
at outfeed end of the
saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut
off. Follow instructions
for ripping.
_lb DANGER
1. Kickback can happen when the saw
blade is pinched
or bound by the
workpiece.
This creates force in the opposite direction
to which the workpiece
is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab
and throw the workpiece
violently
back
out of the saw.
can
happen
Kickback,
Blade Contact.
Fingers, hand or arm
can be cut off.
when:
Follow instructions
for ripping.
Anti-kickback pawls/spreader are not
used or not correctly adjusted.
Fig. 98 Kickback,
Spreader
Blade
and the
most dangerous
mistakes
people make
is to reach for the workpiece
at the outfeed side of the saw. DON'T ! The
Read and follow the safety infl)rmation below
before making any type of rip cut.
Kickback
common
Blade
Contact
Safety/Sign
is not in line with the blade.
is not parallel
3. The workpiece
can also kickback
violently
toward you during a rip cut.
You can be hit hard enough to cause
broken bones and/or internal injury.
Keep blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader
in place and adjusted.
Apply feed pressure
to the section of
the workpiece
next to the fence. Do not
apply feed pressure
on the section of
the workpiece
away from the fence.
Stand out of the path of the workpiece.
to the rip fence.
Edge of workpiece
is not in contact
the rip fence or not straight.
with
Workpiece is twisted or warped and rocks
on the table top.
Edge of workpiece is not completely
against the rip fence, leaving gaps
between the fence and workpiece edge.
Workpiece
is released before being
pushed completely
past the saw blade.
Feeding pressure
of the workpiece
Kickback.
is put on the section
farthest from the fence.
Broken bones/internal injuries result.
Usepawlsispreader.
Stand out of
workpiece
path.
Fig. 99 Kickback,
44
Thrown
Workpiece
Safety Sign
4. Non-fhru cuts increase
the chance of
kickback because the anti-kickback
pawls cannot always grab the irregular
workpiece
surface.
Use a featherboard.
See Cutting Accessories
section on how
to make and use a featherboard.
2. The workpiece
can be grabbed
by the
saw blade and take off like a missile.
Anyone standing
in the path of the
workpiece
can be killed.
Wrong Way Feed,
Blade Contact.
5. The workpiece
can snag or hang up
on a fence with a kerf in it. The
workpiece
can be thrown or pinch the
blade, causing kickback.
Use solid fences when making rip cuts.
Fingers, hand or arm
can be cut off.
Feed from infeed
end of saw.
6. Wood cut with the grain can spring
the kerr closed,
bind the blade, and
cause a kickback.
Adjust spreader
to
ride in the kerf and prevent the kerf
from closing on saw blade.
Wrong
Thrown
Anyone
hit can
be killed.
7. Composition
materials,
like particle
boards and plastics, may be cut on the
saw. Because these materials
often
have a harder and more slippery
surface
than wood, the anti-kickback
pawls may
not stop a kickback.
Place finished
side
of workpiece
down, roughest
side of
workpiece
up. Make anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader
adjustments.
Stand out of
the path of workpiece.
_IL DANGER:
Wrong
pawls, the outfeed
are two things
that
feed the workpiece
of the saw blade:
Feed from
infeed end of saw.
Fig. 100 Wrong
Way Feed Safety Signs
Always
feed the workpiece
direction
of rotation
of the
infeed
end of the blade.
Way Feed
Wrong
way feed is feeding
the
workpiece
into the end of the blade
Way Feed.
Workpiece.
against
the
blade,
at the
LU
Infeed End of
Saw Blade
'Outfeed
End
of Saw Blade
with
end. (Fig. 101) There
can happen
if you
into
the
outfeed
end
1. The workpiece
can be grabbed
by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back.
Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off.
Fig. 101 Infeed and Outfeed
45
Ends of Saw Blade
Rip Cutting
Blade Guard, Anti-kickback
Pawls and Spreader
Use the following rip cutting checklist at the
beginning of each new cutting period to
reduce the risk of an accident.
The blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
workpiece
spreader
are designed to reduce or
eliminate the risk of injury from blade contact, workpiece
kickback and wrong way feed.
The
Blade
Checklist
Guard:
Rip Cutting
• serves as a partial barrier to help
keep hands from contacting
the blade
at the infeed end of the saw blade.
Yellow
Checklist
key removed
Saw unplugged
from switch.
and switch off.
No play in the carriage,
• helps keep the workpiece
from lifting
or fluttering during ripping.
Arm
slopes
to the rear
yoke or column.
and
table
level side
to side.
• helps catch or deflect workpiece
or pieces of the blade.
The
Anti-Kickback
• help reduce
and holding
Pawls
chips
Arbor
:
nut snug.
Blade sharp.
kickback by grabbing
the workpiece.
into
• act as a barrier to provide some
protection
from blade contact.
Fence
secure,
solid (knot free), no kerfs.
Fence
in correct
Saw blade desired
for cut.
rip position.
distance
from the fence
The Spreader:
Swivel, bevel, rip, miter and table
locks locked.
• helps keep the kerf of the workpiece
open, which helps prevent the blade
from being pinched and causing
workpiece
kickback.
Blade guard, anti-kickback
spreader adjusted.
Use push stick if cutting
6 inches off workpiece.
• when correctly set, helps reduce or
eliminate
the chance of wrong way
feed because it blocks the workpiece
from contacting
the saw blade.
4_kWARNING:
The anti-kickback
pawls and
between
Use push block if cutting between
and 2 inches off workpiece.
2 and
1/2
Use featherboard
if making a non-through
cut and when needed on through cuts.
pawls
and spreader
adjustments
must be made
each time a different
thickness
workpiece
is cut to reduce or eliminate
kickback.
Read and follow instructions
of rip cut you want to make.
46
for the type
Making
a Rip Cut Table
You will need to make
Blade Guard
Kerr
a table kerf before
1. Unplug
a
rip cut can be made. Eve U time you move
the blade a new distance from the fence, you
will need to make a new kerf.
1. Put saw in desired rip position
saw arm in the 0° position.
2. Lock rip, swivel, miter,
locks.
Adjustments
saw and remove
yellow
2. Put saw in In-Rip position
saw arm in the 0° position.
key.
and lock the
and lock the
bevel and table
3. Adjust saw arm with handwheel
until the
saw blade almost touches tile table top.
4. Plug the saw into a grounded
outlet.
Fig. 102 In-Rip Saw Position
5. Put on safety goggles.
6. Insert
3. Lock rip, miter,
locks.
the yellow" key in the red switch.
7. Turn saw on.
8. Lower
table.
4. Go to the in-feed
saw blade
until blade
touches
For workpieces
end of the saw blade.
Fig. 101.
the
5. Put the workpiece
on the table, in line with
blade and under the nose of blade guard, so
it touches the blade.
9. _I'urn ttle handwheel
about 1 full turn
more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerr
in the table.
_I=WARNING:
bevel, swivel and table
6. l.oosen the guard clamp screw and ro_:tte
the guard until the guard nose just clear_ the
workpiece.
V[_. 103.
1/4 inch
thick or less, make the rip kerr at least
1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade
from rising up on top of workpieces
and
violently
throwing
them.
7. Tighten
the guard
clamp
I
screw.
Anti
Kickback,'
,Spreader
10. Turn saw off and remove
11. Unplug
saw at the end of cutting
Adjustments
'_
DANGER:
Infeed
Direction
yellow key.
Wing
Screw
session.
Guard Camp
Screw
for Ripping
-Kickback
Bar
You will need to make
blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
spreader adjustments before making a rip
cut.
-._-,-S p read er
........:_.:g;
Fig.
47
::
103 Blade
_Oirection
Guard Position
o
Kickback
for R,,ppiqg
Anti.kickback
ments
Pawls
and Spreader
Making Rip Cuts
AdjustWhen
1. Go to the outfeed
to Use
In-Rip
or Out-Rip
end of the saw blade.
2. Put edge of workpiece
and under the pawls.
beside
The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility, of both the workpiece and your
hands than does the out-rip saw position. The
only time you should use the out-rip saw" position is when the workpiece
is 14 inches or
wider. Use the in-rip position for all
workpieces
less than 14 inches wide.
the blade
3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kickback pawls and spreader until the spreader
hangs next to the edge of the workpiece
and
the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest
on the workpiece.
Workpiece
Positioning
for Ripping
Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece
is be_'een
the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece,
set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do
not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece
by setting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.
A
_
I_WARNINr_:
tween 2 inches
If the blade is set beand 6 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought
too close
to the blade. Fingers and hand can be
cut off. Use a push stick.
Fig. 104 Anti-kickback
Pawl Position
For example, if the workpiece
is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece,
place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push
stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-
4. Tighten wing screw.
5. Go to the infeed
end of the saw blade.
6. Push the workpiece
a few inches in the
direction of the cut and then pull the
workpiece
back toward you. The pawls
should have grabbed the wood and stopped
the kickback motion by grabbing into the
workpiece.
If they did not, repeat adjustments until the pawls grab the workpiece.
If
the pawls fail to grab the workpiece,
sharpen
or replace them. If that fails to work, use a
featherboard.
Repeat steps for making antikickback pawls and spreader adjustments
above.
ches. See Cutting Accessories
section
to make and use a push stick.
_IWARNING:
If the blade
on how
is set be-
tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the
fence,
hands will be brought too close
to the blade. Fingers/hand
can be cut
off. Use an auxiliary fence/push
block.
For example, if the workpiece
is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary
fence. See Cutting Accessories
section.
48
A'k
_
II_WARNINL_:
When making through
rip cuts do not set the blade closer than
1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary
fence, your hands will be brought
too
close to the blade. Your fingers and
hand can be cut off. Do not use a radial
arm saw to rip cut less than 1/2 inch
wide workpieces.
9. Stand out of the line of the workpiece
to
be clear of workpiece
in case of kickback.
1. Set the blade to desired distance from the
fence and lock tile saw arm in the 0° position.
2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table
locks.
3. Make blade guard, anti-kickback
spreader adjustments.
4. Remove workpiece
pawls and
Fig. 105 Hand and BodyPosition
Rip Cut
from table.
5. Turn saw on.
10. Position your body at the infeed end of
the saw blade. Start and complete the cut
from that same side.
6. Place workpiece under the guard nose,
keeping workpiece edge against the fence.
11. Push the workpiece,
putting pressure on
the part of the workpiece
between the blade
and the fence. If you push the part of the
workpiece on the other side of the blade, the
blade could be pinched and the workpicce
will kickback.
7. Place one hand flat oil the workpiece and
next to fence.
8. Place the other hand behind the first so
that your fingers are:
12. Keep pushing the section of the
workpiece between the blade and the fence
until the piece has been pushed completely
past the anti-kickback
pawls.
• on the back edge of workpiece;
• out of the blade
for Making an In-
path and,
_,
• as close to the fence
as possible.
DANGER:
The
blade
guard
NOT provide
complete
protection
feed end of the saw blade. The
_k
A
MLWARNINL_:
Even when all steps to
reduce kickback
are taken, the
workpiece
can still kickback.
You or
others in the area can be hit hard
enough to cause broken bones or internal organ injury.
Stand out of the line of
the saw blade and workpiece.
does
at out-
workpiece
could kickback
as you reach
for, touch or pull the workpiece
through
the blade, pulling your hand into the
blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off. Do not pull, hold-down
or touch the
workpiece
at the outfeed end of the saw.
49
on the arbor could cause the dado and arbor
nut to spin off. Take several passes of the
dado if cut required is greater than 13/16 of
an inch wide.
Kickback,
Blade Contact.
3. To avoid excessive load on the motor
never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper
Follow instructions
for ripping.
Fig. 106 Kickback,
13. Turn
Blade
Contact
1/8 inch in one pass.
4. When installing the dado on the arbor, always install the inside loose collar first to ensure good arbor nut engagement.
Make sure
the arbor nut is snug. Install the arbor nut
directly against the outside of the dado.
Safety Sign
the saw off
WARNING:
Blade continues
to turn
for about 12 seconds after power
turned off. Do not reach for cut
Molding
is
1. Instructions
for using the molding
provided with the molding head.
workpiece
until blade stops. Fingers or
hand can be cut off by the turning
blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.
14. Remove
yellow
key
from
than
head are
2. Use of molding head or drum sander with
the saw arbor vertical requires an opening
(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor
clearance. See Cutting Accessories
section to
make a molding fence.
red switch.
Edging
1. Edging
Bevel Ripping
To make
a bevel
ing head
the use
horizontal
of a dado
position
or mold(parallel
to table).
rip cut:
1. Set the saw in the desired
requires
in the
2. Use proper accessory guard when edging.
See Recommended
Accessories
section.
position.
2. Index the arm to 0° and lock in position.
_WARNING:
3. Bevel the blade
4. Follow
to the desired
steps for making
angle.
fol3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with
the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See
Cutting Accessories
section to make auxiliary
fence for edging in the 0° miter position.
Dadoing
1. Instructions
for using dado blades
provided with the dado blade.
the
proper accessory guard for edging is extremely dangerous.
Hands, fingers or
arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow
instructions for edging guard.
a rip cut.
Note" For dadoing, molding and edging,
low instructions
for crosscutting.
Using the saw without
are
2. The saw arbor is designed for a dado set
up to 13/16 inches wide. Use of a wider dado
5O
_1_ WARNING:
If the auxiliary fence is
not used when the saw arm is in the 0 °
crosscut position, the molding head cannot be located behind the fence for safe
and proper operation.
3. Remove saw [)lade, dado, or other accessory from the saw arbor shaft before using
the accessory shaft. Do not use the saw with
accessories
installed on both ends of the saw
arbor shaft at the same time.
4. Make sure the unused shaft is covered by a
guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid
being pulled into moving parts by hair,
threads, clothing.
4. Edging can also be done in the 30 ° left
miter without the use of an auxiliary fence.
Folh)w the instructions
below.
5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the
drill bit can break. You can be blinded or injured if hit by thrown pieces. Do not use twist
drills longer than 7 inches.
• Miter the arm to the left approximately 30 °.
$ Swivel the motor
until bottom
of
6. Use a spade type drill of 1 inch diameter
or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plastic because the speed is not high enough for
other types of materials.
motor is parallel to and facing the rip
fence and operating
instructions
label
is visible.
• Follow all steps outlined
label as shown below.
on motor
7. Do not use
other
reduced
shank
drills.
8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of
checking to see that adjusting wrenches are
removed from tool before turning it on.
9. When using the accessory shaft in the vertical position, swivel the motor 90 ° so that the
arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.
Fig. 107 Edging
Accessory
=WARNING:
Clothing,
hair, jewelry can
be caught and pulled into an exposed
arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be
broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft
under the radial arm when using the ac..
cessory shaft.
Label
Safety
1. For your safety use only
cessories. Use of any other
increase the risk of injury.
mended Accessory section
recommended
acaccessories
may
See Recomof manual.
2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off
wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because
they can break explosively and throw pieces.
You can be blinded or recieve a life threatening puncture wound. Do not use grinding
wheels, abrasive/cut
off wheels or wire wheels.
Fig. 108 Arbor
sory Shaft
51
Shaft Position
When Using Acces-
Cutting
Accessories
Push
Fences
Fences
are required
Push sticks are used during ripping when the
blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from
the fence.
for all saw operations.
Crosscutting
requires fences with kerfs (slots)
to match the path of the saw, because the saw
blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence
to cut the workpiece.
Make
a new
a push stick when:
• the blade is to be placed
ches from the fence;
Ripping requires a solid fence with no kerfs
or slots, because the fence serves as a guide
for the workpiece
being pushed into the saw
blade. If the workpiece
is pushed along a
fence with kerfs, the workpiece
can get
caught on a kerf, pinch the blade and cause
the workpiece
to kickback.
Make
Stick
• existing
To make
push
a push
2 to 6 in-
stick has been
damaged.
slick:
1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free)
ber.
piece of lum-
fence:
2. Cut a piece
wide.
• when the fence used for crosscutting
has weakened
from having too many
kerfs cut in it;
15 inches
3. Cut a 45 degree
long by 1 5/8 inches
notch in one end as shown.
Slightly
Thickness
• when you want to make a rip cut but
the fence on the saw has kerfs;
Less Than
of Workpiece
up to 3/8" --_
-q-Cq_2"/
1-5/8_
• when you want to crosscut a
workpiece
higher than your current
fence.
To make
15 _
Note: All Dimensions
in Inches
Fig. 109 Push Stick Dimensions
a new fence:
1. Use 3/4 inch knot free lumber.
particle board or other composite
cause they are not strong enough.
"45_' Notch--L
Do not use
material be-
2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length
of the table, and to a width equal to the
height of the workpiece
plus one inch. The
installed fence must be equal to or higher
than the workpiece.
Fig. 110 Way to Use Push Stick
52
_F
_L.\/
1/2
Auxiliary Fence and Push
Block
An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade
is positioned
between 1/2 inch and 2 inches
from the fence during ripping. An auxiliary
fence must always be used with a push block.
Their purpose is to keep your hands away
from the saw blade. They are also needed
when you use the molding head.
Make
an auxiliary
fence
3/8" Plywood
This Face and This
Edge Must Be Parallel
when:
• the blade is to be placed
less from the fence;
3/4"
2 inches
Note:
or
Plywood
All Dimensions
Fig. 111 Auxiliary
in Inches
Fence Dimensions
Push Block
• an existing auxiliary fence is not the
same width all along its length;
• the existing auxiliary fence
damaged by blade contact.
To make
auxiliary
Push blocks are always used with an auxiliary
fence,
has been
Make
fence:
1. Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood
pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.
2. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood
long by 5 1/2 inches wide.
a push
and two
• you make
• existing
4. Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood
inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.
1/2 inch to 2
the first auxiliary
push block has been
fence;
damaged.
to 40 inTo make
a push
block:
1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood
piece of 3/8 inch plywood.
to 40
2. Cut the 3/4 inch plywood
by 5 inches wide.
5. Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood pieces
together so that they line up square (flush)
on an edge.
and one
to 12 inches
long
3. Cut a triangular piece off each of two
corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a
pencil in and down from the corners 1 1/4 inches and cutting along the diagonal formed
by the points.
6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right
angle to and flush against the 2 1/4 inch wide
3/4 inch plywood.
7. Reinforce
when:
• the blade is to be placed
inches from the fence;
to 40 inches
3. Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood
ches long by 3 5/8 inches wide.
block
with nails.
4. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 12 inches long
by 5 1/8 inches wide.
53
5. Cut
out a notch
from
the
12 inch
side
of
Auxiliary Fence for Edging
tile 3/8 plywood
that is 9 1/2 inches long by
.3/8 inch wide. The dimensions
of the remaining 3/8 plywood
are
shown
in Fig.
Make an auxiliary
• before doing edging with the arm at
0° miter position.
6. Glue the 3/4 inch pl_'ood
on top of tile
3/8 inch ply,xood so that their 12 inch sides
are square, as shown;
These
Edges
• when
Must
existing
3/4"
\
To make
!-1/4 x
1-1/4
1. Use
,4-3/4, ! I
_'
12
a fence
3/4 inch
been
2. Cut to the
for edging:
solid
(knot-free)
dimensions
lumber.
shown.
J
Auxiliary
]
have
Plywood
i
3/8 7-,- _
2-1/2
ones
damaged.
Be Parallel
[
fence for edging:
165.
Fence
Spacer Table
I
3/8"
Plywood
Rear Table
s-1/8t- -q
2-1/2
3/8
Note
All Dimensions
Fig. 112 Push Block
3/8
in Inches
Dimensions
7. Cut a piece of plywood 3/8 inch wide by
2 1/2 inches long and glue it to the underside
of the 3/8 inch plywood in line with the edge
that sticks out. Do not use nails because if
_
17"' --_
•
_
45°_-"_45
16"-"'_|
°
Note: All Di%ensions
8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary
fence to make sure that their widths match ex-
Fig. 114 Auxiliary
actly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.
in Inches
3/4-_U_'-_1
For use of the molding head or
with saw arbor vertical, the rear
quires an opening (next to rear
for arbor clearance. Cut opening
below arbor in vertical position.
dimensions
are shown below.
Note:
I
Block
54
_
Al! Dimensions
Fig. 115 Rear
L
Fence for Edging
ea,Za ,e--f
Fence/Push
" 12-1/4 3/4
T-
you accidemly cut into the push block with
the saw blade, the nails will dull the blade.
Fig. 113 Way to Use Auxiliary
"
Table Opening
drum sander
table reface of fence)
directly
Opening
3
in Inches
Dimensions
3-1/2
!l
Featherboard
Featherboards
are used during rip cutting to
help keep the workpiece
against the fence.
The featherboard
is clamped to the front
table, so that the angled edge of the featherboard is against the workpiece
on the infeed
end of the blade. The other edge of the
workpiece
is against the fence.
Make new featherboards
have been damaged.
when
existing ones
i
!. Use solid (knot free) lumber
5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch.
Fig. 117 Way to Use a Featherboard
24 inches by
2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 5 1/2 inches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down
Attaching Auxiliary Board
Crooked Workpiece
on the right from the edge of the board.
Draw a line between the points.
3.Crosscut workpiece
to make the kerfs.
If the workpiece
you want to rip cut does not
have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board
to the workpiece.
at a 30 ° angle then rip
4. Do not clamp the featherboard
cut off part of the workpiece.
against
the
1. Place irregular
fence.
side of workpiece
against
2. Place straight edged auxiliary board
of workpiece
and against fence.
24 _
to
on top
5 1/2
3. Tack the auxiliary board to the workpiece.
The attxiliary board must not extend beyoitd
the leading end of tile workpiece
and should
cover the workpiece width only enough to
pass between the blade and fence.
Note: All Dimensions
Fig. 1!6 Featherboard
in Inches
3. Use a fence that is equal to or higher than
the combined
height of the workpiece
and
auxiliary board.
Dimensions
55
*Recommended
Accessories
Item
Cat. No.
Saw blades
(10" diameter with 5/8" hole)
See Catalog
Leg Set Caster
9-22221 or 9-22222
9-25246
Sanding [)rum
9-2980
Drill Chuck and Key
Dust
Collector
Molding Head Guard 8"
Taper Jig
Auxiliar 5' Table Cover
Miter Square
Pin Router
Extension Table
Satin Cut Dado
7r'
8"
8" Carbide
Standard
Cut Dado
Lower Retractable
A lower retractable
guard which meets
OStIA requirements
for occupational
use
of the radial saw is available. (See Note)
The lower guard is designed
to provide
protection
from contact with the flat sides
of the blade when the radial saw is in the
90 ° crosscut position
and in its rearmost
position
behind
the fence.
The lower
guard
only provides
protection
against
minor lacerations
and bruises.
See Catalog
9-29523
9-3233
See Catalog
9-32056
9-32765
9-32787
A_,WARNING:
The lower guard does
not provide
protection
during actual
crosscutting
or ripping,
or from contact in line with or at an angle to the
saw blade teeth. When in the cut, the
inner and outer guards ride on top of
the fence or workpiece
exposing
the
saw blade teeth.
Fingers, hands or
arm can be cut off if the saw blade is
contacted.
Additional
hazards are explained in the instructions
accompaning the lower blade guard.
9-3257
9-3253
9-3264
9-32475
8"
Adjustable Dado
7"-24 Tooth Carbide
7"-32 Tooth Carbide
7"- 16 Tooth Carbide
8"-48 Tooth Carbide
Molding Heads
7"-Bits Not Included
7"-27 Piece Set
7"-15 Piece Set
Sanding Wheel- l 0"
Blade Stabilizer
Cabinet Accessories
Shelf
Door
3 Drawer Set
Books
Power Tool Know How
Handbook
Guards
Lower Retractable Guard
(For 90 ° Crosscut Only)
9-3261
9-3262
9-3263
9-32708
9-3214
9-3217
9-3218
9-22723
9-2952
9-22251
9-22252
9-22253
_lb WARNING:
The lower blade
guard can get caught or jammed
in
fence and table kerfs, jam while setting up for and while making bevel
and compound
miter cuts and jam
during certain in-rip cuts. The
workpiece
or narrow cut-off pieces
could kickback
causing your hands
to be cut by the blade.
Use the
lower retractable
guard in the 90 °
crosscut
position
only.
•
-'q
WARNING:
See Catalog
TO AVOID INJURY
SHUT OFF POWER
BEFORE CLEARING
A
JAMMED LOWER GUARD
9-29009
Fig. 118 Lower Guard Label
* Recommended
means that these accessories
are designed to fit this radial arm saw. Read
and follow accessory instructions
on their use
and
Guard
NOTE: Employers are required to provide the
lower retractable guard unless OS HA grants
an exemption.
This saw is designed for use in
non-commercial
settings.
limitations.
56
Glossary
Anti-kickback
teeth
which
Pawls:
help
Pivoted
prevent
objects
workpiece
Molding Cut: Non-through
cut which
produces a contoured surface on the
workpiece.
with
kickback.
Arbor: The bar or shaft that holds the saw
blade.
Bevel: The slanting of the motor
an angle between 0° and 90 °.
Crosscut:
Dado:
square
Cutting
Non-through
sided notch
a workpiece
and blade
Outfeed:
rip cut workpiece
tified by presence
to
cut which produces a
or trough in the workpiece.
relative
are 90 °
Push Stick: Cutting accessory used during ripping a workpiece between 2 inches and 6 inches wide.
to
Revolutions Per Minute 0/PM): Number of
turns completed
by an object in one minute.
Ripping: Used to change the width of a
workpiece by cutting along its length.
Spreader: Used during ripping
kerf from closing and pinching
helps prevent kickback.
Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by
the blade in a through cut, or a shallow slot
produced
by the blade in a non-through
cut.
Workpiece:
Miter: Positioning
left of 0°.
iden-
Push Block/Auxiliary
Fence: Two accessories
used together for ripping a workpiece
between 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide.
In-Rip: Positioning
the the motor toward the
front of the table, the blade toward the fence.
Uncontrolled
throwing
during ripping.
the
are the same dis-
Perpendicular:
When two surfaces
(square) to each other.
lnfeed: The end of the saw blade where the
workpiece is fed during ripping; identified by
the absence of pawls.
Kickback:
workpiece
leaves the saw blade;
of pawls.
Parallel: When two surfaces
tance apart at all points.
Freehand:
Performing
a cut without the use
of fence, guide or hold-down
designed to
prevent the workpiece
from moving during
the cutting operation.
of the blade
where
Out-rip: Positioning
the motor toward the
fence, the blade toward the front of the table
during ripping.
to length.
Featherboard:
Device used to keep
workpiece
in contact with the fence during ripping.
!leel: Misalignment
blade travel path.
The end of the saw blade
of the
the saw arm to the right or
57
Object
to keep the
the blade. It
being cut by the saw.
Helpful
Hints
3. Place the same edge of the workpiece
against the fence for all cuts. Make the
first cut at one end of the workpiece,
then flip the workpiece
over and make
the second cut from the other end. Continue this way until all four cuts are
made. (Figure 119)
In order to get accurate cutting results from
your radial arm saw, do the following:
1. Follow all steps in the Alignment
the Blade section.
of
2. Place the long edge of your framing
square against the edge of the
workpiece
that will be held against the
fence during cutting. Make sure that
this edge of the workpiece
is straight.
This Edge of Board
Against Fence For All Cuts
t
3. Make sure that your workpiece lays
flat on the front table of your saw.
/)-,I
Turn
workpiece
over
1
end for end.,.
keep same edge against fence when
making
4. Clean all sawdust
from the table.
Fence
successive
and woodchips
cuts.
/.
5. Hold the workpiece
firmly against the
fence and table dnring all cuts. You
should use extra force during miter and
bevel cuts since the workpiece
tends to
move when these cuts are made.
Pencil Line for
Gauging
Required
Length
//_r_3rdCu_Sc
pra
6. Use the right sawblade for each job,
and make sure that all blades and cutting tools are sharp.
Fig. 119 - Making a 4-SMed Frame
When
making
a four-sided
frame:
4. Make a pencil line on the table
gauging the length of each cut.
1. Make sure that the top and bottom
pieces are exactly the same length.
2. Make sure that both side pieces
exactly the same length.
are
58
for
Motor
To axoid
motor
damage
Frequently
blowing
of fuses or tripping
circuit breakers
may result if:
this motor
should
of
be
blown out or vacuumed
frequently
to prevent
sawdust
buildup
which will interfere
with
normal
motor ventilation.
• Motor is overloaded:
Overloading
can occur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is misaligned so that the blade heels.
• Motor circuit is fused differently
from recommendations:
Always follow instructions
for the proper fuse/breaker.
Do not use a
fuse/breaker
of greater capacity without
consulting
a qualified electrician.
If the motor
switch
Remove
TOOL.
turns
fails
to start,
to the "OFF"
turn
position
the
the yellow
key. UNPLUG
THE
Check
the saw blade to insure that
freely
and
that
its teeth
are
into the table top. After the blade
freed, try to start the motor again.
point,
"Motor
power
immediately.
the motor
still
Trouble-Shooting
fails
to start,
Low voltage: Although the motor is designed for operation on the voltage and frequency specified on the nameplate,
normal
loads will be handled safely on voltages not
more than 10% above or below the nameplate voltage. Heavy loads, however,
require that voltage at motor terminals equal
the voltage specified on nameplate.
it
not wedged
has been
If, at this
refer
to the
Chart."
• Improper
If the motor should suddenly stall while cutting wood, the power switch should be turned
off, remove the yellow key and unplug the
power cord. Free the blade from the wood.
The motor may now be restarted and the cut
finished.
59
extension
cord size.
Maintaining
General
Your Saw
To avoid motor damage the motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent
sawdust build-up which will interfere with
normal motor ventilation.
A
MLWARNING:
For your own safety,
turn power switch off and remove plug
from power source outlet before maintaining or lubricating
your saw.
Lubrication
Your saw is precision built and should be
kept properly lubricated.
Before describing
the various points which may periodically
require lubrication,
it is more important
to first
mention the points which should not be lubricated.
When you receive your new Craftsman
radial
saw, it requires no lubrication.
The radial
saw has been partially aligned and all bearings are lubricated
and sealed for life. In
time, however, in order to keep your saw in
perfect working order and accurate, it will be
necessary to lubricate and realign. In fact
your radial saw needs more of a cleaning
than a lubrication.
Do not lubricate
• carriage
Replacing
Antikickback
the
following:
ball bearings
Pawls
• motor
Make sure the teeth of the antikickbackpawls
are always sharp. If they become dull they
must be replace/d. With a 1/2 inch wrench or
socket removg_the 5/16 hex nut and old
pawls. Reassemble
new antikickback
pawls"
and ,spreader to the bar. Check spreader for
proper alignment
and correct if necessary.
(See Alignment
of the Blade, Installing
Guard / Setting Spreader
section.)
bearings
• area between the miter locking
and the column tube
rings
The carriage bali bearings and motor bearings
are sealed bali bearings which require no
added lubrication.
Cleaning
Do lubricate the following, periodically, using
SAE No 10W-30 automotive engine oil:
Periodically
remove any hea W build-up of
sawdust that may accumulate
on the saw.
The absorbing
tendency of sawdust will draw
lubricants
away from the areas where they
are needed.
Clean the carriage bearings and
track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease
accumulate
repeatedly
on carriage bearings
and track inspect the wipers for wear and
replace if necessary. (See Adjustments
to
Compensate
for Wear, Swivel Lock, later in
this section.)
• Apply a few drops of oil along the
swivel index pin and the bevel index phz
only if the pins have a tendency to
stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for
easy access to the swivel index pin.
Bevel to 45°and bevel indexpin
can be
easily accessed behind the yoke as illustrated.
(Figure 121)
rat)
,Lubricate
the cam surfaces
lock assembly.
of the rip
• A light film of oil should be wiped on
the face of the column tube to lubricate
the fit between the column tube and
column support. With elevation
wheel raise arm to upper limit.
hand-
• The thread on the elevation shaft assembly can be lubricated
through the
oil hole in the center of the radial arm
cap. Lubricate
spring.
,Apply a few drops of oil to the foot assemblies, where the levers are inserted
through the rods.
Fig. 120- Swivel and Bevel Index Pins
,Lubricate
the bearing points where the
arm attaches to the column tube. With
a #2 Phillips screwdriver
remove two
screws and the rear arm cover for access to these points.
Be careful not to
get lubricant on the locking rings as this
will adversely affect the miter locking
function. (Figure 121)
Fig. 12! - Bearing
Column Tube
Points
Where Arm Attaches
ramp on the swivel index
Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any
location will attract airborne dust particles
and sawdust.
Refer to parts lists for locations of parts as
needed.
to
61
Adjustments
Bevel
Swivel
for Wear
This handle
provides
a friction
the upper face of the yoke and
Lock
The purpose of the bevel
motor at any bevel angle.
required if the motor can
hand when the bevel lock
lock is to lock the
An adjustment
is
be easily moved by
is locked or if bevel
motor
support
face
of the carriage.
play
or rotation
locked.
can
It should
between
An adjustment
be easily
locked
lock offers minimal resistance when moving it
to the locked position. To make this adjustment:
1. Remove
l,ock
position.
by hand
lock
when
eliminate
these
handle
moving
I"o make
two
any
parts
is required
rotated
or yoke
resistance
lock between
the bottom
when
if the yoke
when
offers
handle
handle
is
minimal
to the locked
this adjustment:
cover.
2. Position the motor at approximately
30 °
bevel angle and lock bevel lock. (Figure 122)
Fig. 123
1
Remove
swivel
arm
Fig. 122 - Bevel Lock - Locked
2.
screw
lock.
using
Remove
and
Remove
a regular
nut from
knob
from
screw
driver.
the two screws
from
swivel
lock
swivel
lock
This
3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex
nut located at the back of the motor support
casting until the motor can no longer be easily
moved by hand. Do not overtighten.
from
the arm
4. Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any
of the five index positions. If the motor does
not index securely the adjustment
is too tight.
Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel indexpin
seats properly.
corners
of the square
nut then moving the
wrench
until it lines up with the arm portion
and the two screw holes are in line.
Using
the
on
arm.
3.
will separate
knob
portion
the wrench
of the swivel
portion
square nut one quarter
is done by locating
the
5. Adjustment
is complete when both locking
and indexing functions are working properly.
Replace motor support cover.
62
wrench
rotation
wrench
tighten
portion
lock.
the
at a time.
across the
This
2. Push the carriage back against
the rear stop.
3. Hold the front carriage bearing with your
fingers as tight as possible and pull carriage
forward at the same time. If you can prevent
the bearing from turning an adjustment
is required. (Figure 126)
Fig. 127- Location of Flex Nut
3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn
(left or right) as required to take up looseness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equal
amount to maintain blade squareness
to the
table in the rip positions.
4. Hold
Fig. 126 - Front Carriage Bearings
4. Repeat
ings.
step 3 with the rear carriage bear-
To adjust
following
the carriage bea_ngs
steps:
perform
the head of the eccentric
bolts in their
new position and retighten the nuts. Do not
overtighten.
Overtightening
the bearings will
cause difficult operation
and severly reduce
the life of the track and bearings.
the
5. Repeat the test procedure as described
above and readjust if necessary.
1. Clean and lubricate the bearing races and
the bead on which they ride prior to adjustment.
Miter Lock
The miter lock operates adjustable
locking
bands which lock the arm to the column tube
in both indexed and unindexed
positions. If
the arm can be easily moved by hand when
locked in an unindexed
position the following
adjustment
must be made.
2. To adjust the bearing, use a 9/16 inch
wrench to hold the bolt head while using a
1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.
(Figure 127)
1. Move the arm to an unindexed
position
and leave the miter lock in the unlocked position. (Figure 128)
64
Rip Lock
The rip lock locks the carriage in any position
along the length of the arm. If the carriage
can be easily moved by pushing and pulling
on the yoke handle when the @ lock is in the
locked position an adjustment
is required.
1. Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position
and with a 7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/420 hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 103)
Arm
Fig. 128 - Miter Lock - Unlocked
2. With a 3/16 inch hex "U' wrench
Track
"--.
find the
1/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole
in the rear of the arm cover. To tighten turn
the wrench clockwise approximately
1N turn.
(Figure 129)
Rip Lock
Lever
I Spring
_,_oc
/
Cam
\
Carriage
Bolt
e)
Fig. 130 - Location of Hex Lock Nut
2. Lx)ck the rip Iock and try again to move the
carriage. Make additional adjustments
if
necessary.
3. Place the rip lock in the unlocked position
and move the carriage back and forth from
stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to
move at any point or you can feel the rip lock
dragging on the track the adjustment
is too
tight. Loosen the hex nut one half the
amount of the last adjustment
and try again.
Fig. t29 - Location ol Hex Socket Cap Screw
3. lx_ck the miter lock and try again to move
the arm. Readjust if necessary.
4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push
the miter lock into the locked position too
much adjustment
has been made. Turn the
wrench counterclockwise
one half the
amount of the last adjustment
and try again
to lock the arm.
65
ii
i
Trouble
Shooting
i
ill
WARNING: To avoid injury, turn
power switch off and remove plug from
power source outlet before trouble
shooting.
Motor
Problem
Probable Cause
What to Do
Motor
Low voltage.
Check power line for proper
voltage.
Short circuit in line, cord, or
plug.
Inspect line, cord, and plug for
damaged insulation and shorted
wires.
Short circuit in motor
connections.
Inspect all terminals in motor
for loose or shorted terminals
or worn insulation wires.
will not run.
Motor will not run and
fuses blow.
or loose
Incorrect fuses in power line.
66
Install correct fuses.
Motor
-2
Problem
Probable
Motor fails to develop full
power.
(Power output of motor
decreases rapidly with
decrease in voltage at
motor terminals. For example: a reduction
of
10% in voltage causes a
reduction
of 19% in maximum power output of
which the motor is
capable, while a reduction
of 20% in voltage causes a
reduction
of 36% in maximum power output.)
Motor
overheats.
Power
Cause
line overloaded
lights, appliances,
motors.
Undersize
long.
slowly or
up to full
with
to Do
Reduce
the line load.
and other
wires or circuit too
Increase wire sizes, or reduce
length of wiring.
General overloading
of power
company's facilities.
(In many sections of the
country, demand for electrical
power exceeds the capacity of
existing generating
and distribution systems).
Request a voltage
power company.
Excessive
Slow down rate of feed.
crosscutting
Motor
starts
fails to come
What
feed rate when
check from
or ripping.
Improper cooling.
(Air circulation
restricted
through motor due to sawdust,
etc.)
Clean out sawdust to provide
normal air circulation
through
motor.
Saw blade
Refer to Making
to Table section.
has heel.
Blade Parallel
Starting switch will not trip due
to low voltage.
Correct
low voltage
condition.
Voltage too low to permit
motor to reach operating speed,
Correct
dition.
the low line voltage
Fuses or circuit breakers
have sufficient capacity,
Replace
breakers
units.
fuses or circuit
with proper capacity
Motor overloaded.
Reduce
motor
Fuses or circuit breakers do not
have sufficient capacity.
Replace fuses or circuit
breakers.
speed.
Motor stalls resulting in
blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers.
Frequent
opening of fuses
or circuit breakers.
do not
load.
con-
Saw Operations
Problem
Probable
Crosscuts
not accurate
0° and 45 ° miter.
at
Cause
Looseness
between
and column
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Adjusting Elevation.
Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Crosscut Travel.
Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Adjusting Elevation.
is loose in support.
Arm not indexing
properly.
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear,
Miter
Lock.
Carriage
loose on arm.
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Ripping.
assembly
Sawdust between
fence.
bevel
tube
not square
Ix)oseness between
riage assembly.
Saw cuts at slight
(not 90 ° to table).
column
support.
Crosscut
travel
with fence.
Column
What to Do
yoke and car-
workpiece
not straight.
Work
table not properly
Blade
not square
to table.
Bearings Loose
Bevel lock loose.
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Swivel
Lock.
Keep front table clean.
Replace fence.
Fence
Carriage
and
of the Blade,
to Table
for
leveled.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Leveling Front Table.
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Crosscutting.
of the Blade,
to Table
for
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Ripping.
of the Blade,
to Table
for
Go
to
Maintaining
Adjustments
I_x)ck.
for
Your
Wear,
Saw,
Bevel
Saw Operations
-2
Problem
Probable
Cause
Workpiece
kerf rough
with tooth marks from
blade (also called heel).
Saw blade
to fence.
not square
Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Fence.
Saw blade
to table.
not parallel
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.
Using improper
cut desired,
Wood binds, smokes, and
motor slows down or stops
when ripping.
Dull blade
blade
or warped
for finish
board.
to Do
Use proper
blade.
smooth
cutting
Sharpen or replace the saw
blade. Do not use severely
warped material.
Feed rate too fast.
Slow feed rate.
Saw blade
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.
Fence
heels.
not straight.
Carriage
assembly
Board pulls away from
fence when ripping.
Saw blade
Workpiece strikes
spreader when ripping.
Spreader
Saw does not travel
smoothly on arm.
Dirty track.
Clamping force not sufficient at miter angles other
than 45%
What
Replace
loose on arm.
has heel.
not in line with blade.
fence.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Table for Ripping.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.
Go to Alignment
Installing Guard
Spreader.
Clean track
of the Blade,
/ Setting
and lubricate
with
light grease.
Bad bearing.
Replace bearing.
Worn track.
Replace track.
Miter lock needs adjustment.
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Miter
Lock.
Saw Operations
-3
Problem
Probable
What to Do
Cause
Clamping force not sufficient at bevel angles other
than 45%
Bevel lock needs adjusting.
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Bevel
Lock.
Depth of cut varies from
one end of the workpiece
to the other.
Table
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Leveling Front Table.
Blade tends to advance
Dull blade.
through
lumber
top not parallel
cannot
Replace
or sharpen
blade.
too fast.
Not advancing
Table
with arm.
be leveled.
(Right side is higher than
left side with no adjustment
left, or vice versa.)
saw properly.
Column support shifted
mounts to saw base.
70
where it
Draw saw blade across lumber
with a slow and steady pull.
Loosen
the six bolts that hold
the column support
base and shift arm.
to the saw
NOTES
PARTS
LIST
FOR CRAFTSMAN
10 '° RADIAL
MODEL
NO. 113.198111
SAW
9
tSEE
FIG,
7]
17
r \
16
(SEE
F_G
(SEE
2]
FIG.
13
3}
FIG.
6)
32
(SEE
FtG.
2)
27
3O
30
2
URE 1
I
72
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
Always
order
by Part Number
FIGURE
Part
No.
Key
No.
1
4
5
6
7
STD601103
*Screw, Pan Rec.
STD5510!0
Type T 10-32 x 3/8
*Washer,
Flat
13/64 x 7/16 x 1/16
815857-1
Screw, Hex Washer
3/8-16 x 1-1/2
815649
815778
Bearing,
Arm
Indicator,
Miter
Scale, Miter
815777
816333-!
8
9
10
806828-3
11
12
60128
60074
13
14
15
16
17
37384
STD512510
STD551225
STD541025
815989
*Standard
Hardware
Key
No.
Description
Screw, Pan Cr. Type
10-32 x 1/2
Hd.
Arm Assembly
(see Fig. 5)
Table Boards (see Fig. 7)
Screw, Pan Hd. Rec.
Type "T" 1/4-20 x !-3/4
Washer,
17/64 x 5/8 x !/32
Screw, Hex Socket Set
1/4-20 x 7/8
Nut, Tee
"Screw,
Pan Hd. 1/4-20 x 1
*Lockwasher
1/4
[*Nut
Hex 1/4-20
Clip, 'U"
Item
!/4-20
may be Purchased
- Not by Key Number
1
Part
No.
18
19
20
815773
816115
21
22
23
24
815774
60208
81598O
815856-1
25
"TT"
Locally.
SAW
26
27
28
29
30
815881
815928
815869
815935
31
805589-5
SP5101
507784
507499
507529
Description
Cover,
Rear Arm
Cord
Base
(see
Rivet
with Plug
and Column
Fig. 2)
1/4 x 1/2
Nut,
Assembly
Push 1/4
Bushing
Screw, Hex Washer
5/16-18 x 1-1/4
Yoke and Motor
(see Fig. 3)
Guard Assembly
Cap, Trim R.H.
Hd.
Assembly
(see Fig. 6)
Ledge, Trim
Cap, Trim L.H.
Screw, Pan Hd. Ty "BT"
1/4 x 1/2
Screw, Truss Hd.
1/4-20 x 1/2
Owners Manual (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
SAW
11
/
41
38
1
15_/_
16
19
34
37
42
43
_
\
3
1614
27
44
27
23
32 /
22
31
,, 21
30
28
FIGURE
74
2
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
815857-1
2
3
815649
141594-31
4
5
6
7
8
815774
815702
60208
815763
816647
9
10
11
815672
815770
817149
12
13
14
815690
STD581043
63500
15
16
17
63618
63614
STD523107
18
19
20
815772
STD582050
815699
*Standard Hardware
2 - BASE
Description
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
3/8-16 x 1-1/2
Bearing, Arm
*Screw, Socket Hd. Cap
1/4-20 x 1-1/4
Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2
Lock Assembly
Nut, Push 1/4
Latch Arm
Screw, Soc. Hd. Ty "T"
1/4-20 x 3/4
Tube
Gib, Column Tube
Screw, Locking Set
1/4-20 x 5/8
Support, Column Tube
"Ring, Retaining 7/16
Washer, Thrust
.502 x .927 x .031
Gear, Pinion
Bearing Lift Shaft
*Screw, Hex Hal.
5/16-18 x 3/4
Bushing, Elevation
*Ring, Retaining 1/2
Shaft, Elevating Crank
Item may be Purchased Locally.
AND
COLUMN
Key
No,
ASSEMBLY
Part
No.
21 STD511105
22 STD551210
23 815707
24 804182
25 STD551031
26 STD551131
27 STD541031
28 63673
29 60013
30 STD523107
3! 507654
32 iSTD54143!
33 STD551031
34 63536
35 STD541450
36 8171O6
37 816977
38 816976
39 815771
40 815864
41 816273
42 63062
48
44
3540
9416187
Description
*Screw, Pan Hd. 10-32 x 1/2
*Lockwasher, External #10
Handwheel
*Ring, Retaining 1/2
*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16
*Lockwasher, External 5/16
"Nut, Hex 5/16-18
Channel, Table Mtg.
Washer, 11/32 x 7/8 x 1/16
*Screw, Hex Hd. 5/16-18 x 3/4
Base Assembly
"Nut, Lock 5/16-18
*Washer, 21/64 x 9/16 x 1/16
Clamp, Table
*Nut, Lock 1/2-13
Washer, Keyed
Gear, Bevel
Shaft, Elevating
Nut, Elevation
Cover, Column Support
Screw, Truss Rec, Hd.
1/4-20 x 1/2
Wrench, Shaft
Wrench, Arbor
Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T"
5/16-18 x 3/4
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
SAW
lO
11
12
13
15
16
18
0
/
5
/
MOTOR
CORD
12
23
22
27
30
I
29
25
4
26
29
31
FIGURE
76
3
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
2
815803
810214-2
3
4
5
6
7
STD551225
STD551012
75128
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
815682
815683
815678
815679-1
805561-10
815791
815677
815813
815836
808380-6
3 - YOKE
AND
Description
Cap, Motor Support
Screw, Low Hd.,
Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8
*Lockwasher, Internal 1/4
*Washer, 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/16
eMotor
Yoke Assembly (see Figure 4)
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 1
Cover, Handle
Handle
Washer, Shaft
Pin, Index
Washer, .505 x 7/8 x 1/16
Spring, Bevel
Lever, Bevel Lock
Nut, Square 1/2-13
Wedge, Bevel Spring
MOTOR
ASSEMBLY
Key
No.
Part
No.
17
18
19
20
815685
815788
815686
808380-2
21
9420474
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
STD600803
8158OO
815676
455734
815674
815673
STD541450
62498
9-32668
30495
Description
Cover, Yoke
Indicator, Bevel
Knob, Bevel Lock
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 3/8
Screw, Hex Hd.
Type "T" 10-32 x 1/2
*Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x 3/8
Scale, Bevel
Shaft Support
Pin, Roll 1/8 x 3/4
Plate, Adjustment
Plate, Index
*Nut Lock 1/2-13
Collar, Blade
tBlade, Saw
Nut, Shaft
*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.
1-Stock Item may be Secured Through the Hardware Department of Most Sears Retail or Catalog Order
Houses.
eAny attempt to repair this motor may result in unit misalignment and create a HAZARD unless repair is done
by a qualified service technician. Do not loosen the three screws holding the motor support to the motor. This
assembly is factory aligned. Repair service is available at your nearest Sears Store.
77
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
7
11
10
,\
2
3
24
34
36
35
37
28
/
29
FIGURE
78
4
SAW
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key;
No.
Part
No.
4 - YOKE ASSEMBLY
Key
No.
Description
Part
No.
Description
ii
1
810214-3
2
3
4
5
6
7
STD315485
STD551031
817181
815805
815806
159572-98
8
815689
190 STD551062
815817
11 STD541462
12 62636
13 815693
14 STD541425
15 273229
16
17
18
19
20
21
816497
815671
815804
815692
STD532507
808380-2
22
STD541231
*Standard
Screw, Low Hd.
Cap 5/16-18 x 7/8
"Bearing, Ball .3150 I.D.
*Washer, 21/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
Wiper, Track
Support Indicator
Indicator Rip
Screw, Hex Wash
Ty "T" 8-32 x 1/4
Carriage
*Washer, .630 x 1-1/8 x 3/32
Nut, Sq. Lock
*Nut, Lock 5/8-11
Nut, Sq. 1/4-20
Bracket, Rip Lock
'Nut, Lock 1/4-20
Screw, Hex Hd.
Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1/2
Spring, Rip Lock
Cam, Rip Lock
Knob, Rip Lock
Lever, Rip Lock
*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 3/4
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 3/8
*Nut, Hex Jam 5/16-18
Hardware Item may be Purchased
Locally.
79
23
24
25
26
27
ST0551131
815691
STD551012
815798
810214-2
28
29
30
31
32
815645
109529
815679
815680
9420474
33
34
35
36
815694
STD55103!
63777
60438
37
38
39
40
41
42
815807
STD541025
816988
816987
816986
STD512515
43
STD510602
44
62520
*Lockwasher, External 5/16
Ring, Yoke Index
*Washer, 17/64 x 7/!6 x 1/32
Lockwasher, High Collar 1/4
Screw, Low Hd.,
Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8
Yoke
Nut, Square 5/8-11
Pin, Index
Spring, Swivel
Screw, Hex Type "T"
10-32 x 1/2
Stud, Yoke Clamp
*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16
Bearing, Carriage
Washer, No. 2 Carriage
Bearing
Screw, Eccentric
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
Knob, Swivel
Wrench, Adjustment
Actuator, Swivel
*Screw, Pan Hd.
1/4-20 x 1-1/2
*Screw, Pan Hd. 6-32 x 1/4
Spacer
iiiiiiiiiiii
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
2
SAW
3
10
14
15
12
16
18
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Part
No.
Key
No.
5 - ARM ASSEMBLY
Key
No.
Description
Part
No.
Description
1
1
2
3
4
5
815688
815809
815774
815790
STD601103
6
7
815703
815856
8
9
10
11
12
13
815779
815716
815704
STD551208
803709
STD600803
*Standard
Hardware
Arm, Radial
Cable
Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2
Actuator Assembly
*Screw, Pan Rec.
Type "'1"" 10-32 x 3/8
Knob, Miter Lock
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
5/16-18 x 3/4
Bushing
Trim, Arm
Housing, Switch
*Lockwasher,
Internal #8
Connector, Wire
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" 8-32 x 3/8
Item may be Purchased
Locally.
80
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
816113
815863
815976
815938
815784
816178
815867
815708
815868
69138
815670
346030
26
27
60208
815785
Switch, Locking
Key, Switch
Bezel, Switch
Pad, Guard
Label, Trim L.H.
Sleeve, Rubber
Spring, Compression
Spring, Miter Lock
Relief, Strain
Ring, Cord
Arm, Carriage Support
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
8-10 x !/2
Push Nut, 1/4
Label, Trim R.H.
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
SAW
/
/
4
1
3
/
10
11
14
15
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
I
Part
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
816264-1
120399
63258
63541
815816
STD551010
STD601103
8
9
STD541231
815815
*Standard
Hardware
6 - GUARD
Key
No.
Description
Guard
*Nut, Square 5/16-18
Elbow, Dust
Bar, Anti-Kickback
Guide, Anti-Kickback
*Washer, 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
*Screw, Pan Hd.
Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8
*Nut, Hex Jam 5/6-18
Pawl
Item may be Purchased
ASSEMBLY
Part
No.
10 STD581050
11 63270
12 816341
13 60435
14 816070
15 166785-3
16 63538
17 STD510805
18 STD551208
19 STD541008
Locally
81
Description
*Ring, Retaining
Spreader
Bearing
Grip
Screw, Guard Clamp
Screw, Wing 5/16-18 x 2-3/4
Clamp, Guard
*Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x 1/2
*Lockwasher, External No. 8
*Nut, Hex 8-32
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
SAW
3
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Keyl
No.
1
2
3
4
7 - TABLE ASSEMBLY
Pad
No.
815794
815755
63432
815796
*Standard
Description
Table, Rear
Table Spacer
Fence, Rip
Table, Front
Hardware Item may be Purchased
82
Locally.
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
SAW
\
!
8
2
\
7
78
3
\
FIGURE
Part
No.
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
8- LEG SET
815918
817105
815909
STD541237
803835-1
805589-5
STD551225
STD541025
507783
*Standard
Hardware
Description
Stiffener, Leg
Leg
Stiffener, Lower
*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16
Foot, Leveling
Screw Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2
*Lockwasher, Int. 1/4
*Nut, 1/4-20
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Item may be Purchased
83
Locally.
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
!
/
2
FIGURE
84
9
SAW
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198111
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
9 - MOTOR
Part
No.
507744
STD376!16
64950
64951
64948
30582
*Standard
Hardware
ASSEMBLY
Description
Housing, Motor
*Capacitor
Screw, Type "T"
Screw, Flat Head
Screw, Ground
Cap, Shaft
Item may be Purchased
85
Locally.
SAW
NOTES
86
NOTES
87
f
SEARS
Operators
Manual
SERVICE
MODEL NO.
113.198111
10-INCH RADIAL SAW
Now that you have purchased your 10-inch radial saw, should a need
ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service
Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. stores. Be sure to provide all
pertinent facts when you call or visit.
The model number of your 10-inch radial saw will be found on a plate
attached to your saw, at the left-hand side of the base.
10" RADIAL SAW
WITH LEG SET
HOW TO ORDER
REPAIR PARTS
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
PART NUMBER
PART DESCRIPTION
MODEL NUMBER
113.198111
NAME OF ITEM
10-INCH RADIAL SAW
All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most
Sears stores. If the parts you need are not stocked locally,your order will
be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center
for handling.
Sold by SEARS,
Part No. SP5101
ROEBUCK
AND CO., Chicago,
Form No. SP5101-2
IL. 60684
U.S.A.
Printed in U.S.A. 11/_