PURSUIT 3000 OFFSHORE EXPRESS Owner`s manual

3000 EXPRESS
OWNER’S MANUAL
FISHING BOATS
3901 St. Lucie Blvd.
Ft. Pierce, Florida 34946
3000 EXPRESS
Print Date 3/2000
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3000 EXPRESS
Dear Pursuit 3000 Express Owner:
All of us at Pursuit are pleased that you have selected one of our products as
your boat. As I’m sure you’ve discovered during the selection and decision
process, your Pursuit has been designed, engineered and built with care and
precision.
Please allow me to note my personal philosophy. When I started this company,
my goal was to provide you, our customer, with the finest quality boat available.
Everything we have achieved since that time has been with the same goal in
mind.
The information in this owner’s manual has been assembled to assist you with
obtaining maximum enjoyment with your Pursuit. Please read this manual
completely and always operate your boat safely and courteously.
Thank you for selecting a Pursuit Fishing Boat. We all wish you many years
of boating fun and safety.
Sincerely,
Leon R. Slikkers
Chief Executive Officer
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3000 EXPRESS
SAFETY INFORMATION
Your
3000 Express Owner’s Manual has been
written to include a number of safety instructions to assure the
safe operation and maintenance of your boat. These instructions
are in the form of WARNING, CAUTION and DANGER
statements. The following definitions apply:
IMMEDIATE HAZARDS WHICH WILL RESULT IN
SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH.
HAZARDS OR UNSAFE PRACTICES WHICH COULD
RESULT IN SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH.
HAZARDS OR UNSAFE PRACTICES WHICH COULD
RESULT IN MINOR PERSONAL INJURY OR
PRODUCT AND PROPERTY DAMAGE.
All instructions given in this book are as seen from the stern
looking toward the bow, with starboard being to your right,
and port to your left. A glossary of boating terms is included.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Your boat uses internal combustion
engines and flammable fuel. Every precaution has been taken
by Pursuit Fishing Boats to reduce the risks associated with
possible injury and damage from fire or explosion, but your
own precaution and good maintenance procedures are necessary in order to enjoy safe operation of your boat.
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3000 EXPRESS
BOAT INFORMATION
Please fill out the following information section and leave it in your Pursuit
3000 Express Owner’s Manual. This information will be important for you
and Pursuit service personnel to know, if and when you may need to call
Pursuit for technical assistance or service.
BOAT
MODEL:
HULL SERIAL #:
PURCHASE DATE:
DELIVERY DATE:
IGNITION KEYS #:
REGISTRATION #:
DRAFT:
WEIGHT:
ENGINE(S)
MAKE:
MODEL:
PORT SERIAL #:
STARBOARD SERIAL #:
TRANSMISSION(S) (Inboard)
MAKE:
MODEL:
PORT SERIAL #:
STARBOARD SERIAL #:
RATIO:
OUTDRIVE(S) (Inboard/Outboard)
MAKE:
MODEL:
PORT SERIAL #:
STARBOARD SERIAL #:
PROPELLER(S)
MAKE:
BLADES:
DIAMETER/PITCH:
OTHER:
TRAILER
MAKE:
MODEL:
SERIAL #:
GVRW:
DEALER
PURSUIT
NAME:
PHONE:
DEALER/PHONE:
REPRESENTATIVE:
SALESMAN:
ADDRESS:
SERVICE MANAGER:
ADDRESS:
Pursuit Fishing Boats reserves the right to make changes and improvements in equipment, design and vendored
equipment items, at any time without notification.
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3000 EXPRESS
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
Warranty and Warranty Registration Cards
The Pursuit Limited Warranty Statement is included with your boat. It has been written to be clearly
stated and easily understood. If you have any questions after reading the warranty, please contact
the Pursuit Customer Relations Department.
Pursuit, engine manufacturers, and the suppliers of major components maintain their own
manufacturer's warranty and service facilities. It is important that you properly complete the
warranty registration cards included with your boat and engine(s) and mail them back to the
manufacturers to register your ownership. This should be done within 15 days of the date of
purchase and before the boat is put into service. A form for recording this information is provided
at the beginning of this manual. This information will be important for you and service personnel
to know, if and when you may need service or technical information.
The boat warranty registration requires the Hull Identification Number “HIN” which is located
on the starboard side of the transom, just below the rubrail. The engine warranty registration
requires the engine serial number(s). Please refer to the engine owner's manual for the location of
the serial number(s).
IMPORTANT:
All boat manufacturers are required by the Federal Boat Safety Act of 1971 to notify first time
owners in the event any defect is discovered “which creates a substantial risk of personal injury to
the public.” It is essential that we have your warranty registration card complete with your
name and mailing address in our files so that we can comply with the law if it should become
necessary.
Product Changes
Pursuit is committed to the continuous improvement of our boats. As a result, some of the
equipment described in this manual or pictured in the catalog may change or no longer be available.
Pursuit reserves the right to change standard equipment, optional equipment and specifications without notice or obligation. If you have questions about the equipment on your Pursuit,
please contact your dealer or the Pursuit Customer Relations Department.
Transferring The Warranty
For a Transfer fee, S2 Yachts will extend warranty coverage to subsequent owners of Pursuit
models for the duration of the original warranty period. Please refer to the Pursuit Limited Warranty
Statement for the procedure to transfer the warranty.
To take advantage of this program, notification of the change of ownership, including the new
owner's name, address and telephone number together with the appropriate fee, must be sent to
Pursuit Fishing Boats, Customer Relations Department, 3901 St. Lucie Boulevard, Ft. Pierce,
Florida 34946, within 30 days of the date of resale.
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S2 Yachts will confirm, in writing, that the transfer of the warranty has taken place. After which,
the transferee will be treated as the original purchaser as outlined in the Pursuit Limited Warranty
Statement.
Service
All warranty repairs must be performed by an authorized Pursuit Dealer. Should a problem develop
that is related to faulty workmanship or materials, as stated in the Limited Warranty, you should
contact your Pursuit dealer to arrange for the necessary repair. If you are not near your dealer or
another authorized Pursuit dealer or the dealer fails to remedy the cause of the problem, then contact
the Pursuit Customer Relations Department within 15 days. It is the boat owner's responsibility
to deliver the boat to the dealer for warranty service.
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3000 EXPRESS
OWNER'S/OPERATOR'S
RESPONSIBILITIES
Registration and Numbering
Federal law requires that all undocumented vessels equipped with propulsion machinery be
registered in the state of principal use. A certificate of number will be issued upon registering the
boat. These numbers must be displayed on your boat. The owner/operator of a boat must carry
a valid certificate of number whenever the boat is in use. When moved to a new state of principal
use, the certificate is valid for 60 days.
In order to be valid, the numbers must be installed to the proper specifications. Check with your
dealer or state boating authority for numbering requirements. The Coast Guard issues the
certificate of number in Alaska; all others are issued by the state.
Insurance
In most states the boat owner is legally responsible for damages or injuries he or someone else
operating the boat causes. Responsible boaters carry adequate liability and property damage
insurance for their boat. You also should protect the boat against physical damage and theft. Some
states have laws requiring minimum insurance coverage. Contact your dealer or state boating
authority for information on the insurance requirements in your boating area.
Reporting Boating Accidents
All boating accidents must be reported by the operator or owner of the boat to the proper marine
law enforcement authority for the state in which the accident occurred. Immediate notification is
required if a person dies or disappears as a result of a recreational boating accident.
If a person dies or there are injuries requiring more than first aid, a formal report must be filed within
48 hours.
A formal report must be made within 10 days for accidents involving more than $500.00 damage
or the complete loss of a boat.
A Boating Accident Report form is located near the back of this manual to assist you in reporting
an accident. If you need additional information regarding accident reporting, please call the
Boating Safety Hotline, 800-368-5647.
Education
If you are not an experienced boater, we recommend that the boat operator and other people that
normally accompany the operator, enroll in a boating safety course. Organizations such as the U.S.
Power Squadrons, United States Coast Guard Auxiliary, State Boating Authorities and the
American Red Cross offer excellent boating educational programs. These courses are worthwhile
even for experienced boaters to sharpen your skills or bring you up to date on current rules and
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regulations. They can also help in providing local navigational information when moving to a new
boating area. Contact your dealer, State Boating Authority or the Boating Safety Hotline, 800368-5647, for further information on boating safety courses.
Required Equipment
U.S. Coast Guard regulations require certain equipment on each boat. The Coast Guard also sets
minimum safety standards for vessels and associated equipment. To meet these standards some of
the equipment must be Coast Guard approved. “Coast Guard Approved Equipment” has been
determined to be in compliance with USCG specifications and regulations relating to performance,
construction, or materials. The equipment requirements vary according to the length, type of boat,
and the propulsion system. Some of the Coast Guard equipment is described in the Safety
Equipment chapter of this manual. For a more detailed description, obtain “Federal Requirements
And Safety Tips For Recreational Boats” by contacting the Boating Safety Hotline, 800-368-5647,
or your local marine dealer or retailer and read the book “Sportfish, Cruisers, Yachts - Owner's
Manual” included with this manual.
Some state and local agencies impose similar equipment requirements on waters that do not fall
under Coast Guard jurisdiction. These agencies also may require additional equipment that is not
required by the Coast Guard. Your dealer or local boating authority can provide you with additional
information for the equipment requirements for your boating area.
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3000 EXPRESS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 1:
Propulsion System
Page
1.1
1.2
1.3
1.4
1.5
1.6
1.7
Chapter 2:
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.6
2.7
Chapter 3:
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4
3.5
General ................................................................................ 1-1
Drive Systems ...................................................................... 1-2
Engine Exhaust System ......................................................... 1-2
Engine Cooling System ......................................................... 1-3
Propellers ............................................................................ 1-4
Running Gear ....................................................................... 1-6
Engine Instrumentation .......................................................... 1-9
Helm Control Systems
General ................................................................................ 2-1
Engine Throttle and Shift Controls ......................................... 2-1
Engine Synchronizer .............................................................. 2-2
Neutral Safety Switch ........................................................... 2-2
Steering System .................................................................... 2-3
Trim Tabs ............................................................................. 2-4
Control Systems Maintenance ............................................... 2-5
Fuel System
General ................................................................................ 3-1
Gasoline Engine Fuel System ................................................. 3-3
Diesel Engine Fuel System .................................................... 3-5
Fueling Instructions ............................................................... 3-6
Fuel System Maintenance ..................................................... 3-8
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 4:
Electrical System
Page
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
Chapter 5:
General ................................................................................. 4-1
12-Volt System ..................................................................... 4-1
110-Volt System ................................................................... 4-9
Electrical System Maintenance ............................................... 4-13
Fresh Water System
5.1 General ................................................................................. 5-1
5.2 Fresh Water System Operation .............................................. 5-2
5.3 Water Heater ........................................................................ 5-2
5.4 Shore Water Connection (Optional) ....................................... 5-3
5.5 Shower Operation ................................................................. 5-3
5.6 Fresh Water System Maintenance .......................................... 5-4
Chapter 6:
6.1
6.2
6.3
6.4
6.5
Chapter 7:
Raw Water System
General ................................................................................. 6-1
High Pressure Washdown ...................................................... 6-2
Livewell ................................................................................. 6-3
Air Conditioning .................................................................... 6-3
Raw Water System Maintenance ........................................... 6-4
Drainage Systems
7.1 General ................................................................................. 7-1
7.2 Cockpit Drains ...................................................................... 7-2
7.3 Hard-Top and Radar Arch Drains .......................................... 7-2
7.4 Bilge Drainage ....................................................................... 7-2
7.5 Fishbox and Storage Compartment Drains ............................. 7-3
7.6 Water System Drains ............................................................. 7-3
7.7 Shower and Cabin Sink Drains .............................................. 7-4
7.8 Rope Locker Drains .............................................................. 7-4
7.9 Drainage System Maintenance ............................................... 7-4
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Ventilation System
Chapter 8:
Page
8.1
8.2
8.3
8.4
8.5
Cabin Ventilation ..................................................................
Windshield Ventilation ...........................................................
Carbon Monoxide and Proper Ventilation .............................
Engine Compartment Ventilation ............................................
Maintenance .........................................................................
Safety Equipment
Chapter 9:
9.1
9.2
9.3
9.4
9.5
9.6
9.7
9.8
General .................................................................................
Engine Alarms .......................................................................
Neutral Safety Switch ...........................................................
Required Safety Equipment ...................................................
Automatic Fire Extinguishing System ......................................
Carbon Monoxide Monitoring System ...................................
First Aid ...............................................................................
Additional Safety Equipment .................................................
Chapter 10:
10.1
10.2
10.3
10.4
10.5
10.6
10.7
10.8
8-1
8-1
8-2
8-3
8-4
9-1
9-1
9-2
9-2
9-5
9-6
9-8
9-8
Operation
General ................................................................................ 10-1
Rules of the Road ................................................................. 10-1
Pre-Cruise Check ................................................................ 10-3
Operating Your Boat ............................................................ 10-4
Grounding and Towing ......................................................... 10-7
Fishing ................................................................................. 10-8
Tower Operation ................................................................. 10-8
Transporting Your Boat ........................................................ 10-10
Chapter 11:
Exterior Equipment
11.1 Deck ................................................................................... 11-1
11.2 Hull ...................................................................................... 11-3
11.3 Cockpit ............................................................................... 11-4
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 12:
Interior Equipment
Page
12.1
12.2
12.3
12.4
12.5
Head Compartment and Marine Toilet .................................. 12-1
Galley and Sink .................................................................... 12-3
Convertible Dinette and Table .............................................. 12-5
Air Conditioner .................................................................... 12-6
V-Berth ............................................................................... 12-7
Chapter 13:
13.1
13.2
13.3
13.4
13.5
Routine Maintenance
Exterior Hull and Deck ......................................................... 13-1
Upholstery, Canvas and Enclosures ...................................... 13-4
Cabin Interior ....................................................................... 13-5
Bilge and Engine Compartment ............................................. 13-6
Drainage System .................................................................. 13-7
Chapter 14:
Seasonal Maintenance
14.1 Lay-up and Storage ............................................................. 14-1
14.2 Winterizing ........................................................................... 14-4
14.3 Recommissioning .................................................................. 14-7
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 15:
Schematics
Page
12-Volt DC Wiring Schematic ........................................................ 15-1
110-Volt Wiring Schematic ............................................................. 15-2
Battery Cable Schematic ................................................................. 15-3
Hydraulic Steering System .............................................................. 15-4
Gas Fuel System ............................................................................. 15-5
Diesel Fuel System ......................................................................... 15-6
Fresh Water System ....................................................................... 15-7
Bridge Deck Raw Water System .................................................... 15-8
Head Plumbing System ................................................................... 15-9
Running Gear ................................................................................. 15-10
Rudder Assembly ........................................................................... 15-10
Prop Assembly ............................................................................... 15-10
Coupler Assembly .......................................................................... 15-10
Shaft Seal
................................................................................. 15-11
Drainage System ............................................................................. 15-12
Bridge Deck Drainage System ........................................................ 15-13
Bridge Deck Plumbing .................................................................... 15-13
Sling Positions ................................................................................ 15-14
Gas Exhaust System ....................................................................... 15-15
Diesel Exhaust System .................................................................... 15-16
Appendix A: Glossary of Terms ........................................................... A-1
Appendix B: Maintenance Log ............................................................. B-1
Appendix C: Boating Accident Report .................................................. C-1
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3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 1:
PROPULSION SYSTEM
3000 Express
1.1 General
The Pursuit 3000 Express is designed to be powered with twin gasoline or diesel inboard engines.
Each manufacturer of the various marine power components provides an owner’s information
manual with its product. It is important that you read the manual(s) very carefully and become
familiar with the proper care and operation of the engines and drive systems. A warranty
registration card has been furnished with each new engine and can be located in the engine owner’s
manual. All information requested on this card should be filled out completely by the dealer and
purchaser and then returned to the respective engine manufacturer as soon as possible.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO SERVICE ANY ENGINE OR DRIVE COMPONENT WITHOUT BEING
TOTALLY FAMILIAR WITH THE SAFE AND PROPER SERVICE PROCEDURES. CERTAIN
MOVING PARTS ARE EXPOSED AND CAN BE DANGEROUS TO SOMEONE UNFAMILIAR
WITH THE OPERATION AND FUNCTION OF THE EQUIPMENT.
USE ONLY CLEAN, DRY FUEL OF THE TYPE AND GRADE RECOMMENDED BY THE ENGINE MANUFACTURER. THE USE OF INCORRECT OR CONTAMINATED FUEL CAN
CAUSE ENGINE MALFUNCTION AND SERIOUS DAMAGE.
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Inboard Drive System
1.2 Drive Systems
On inboard propulsion systems, all shifting and gearing components are installed inside the hull.
Only the propeller shafts and associated equipment are under water. The engines are mounted
below the bridge deck sole. A transmission, also called a gearbox, which performs desired shifting
functions, is directly coupled to each engine. The propeller shaft extends through the hull and
connects the transmission output coupling with the propeller. Some inboard transmissions have
built-in reduction gearing. This gearing reduces the speed of the propeller in relation to engine
speed.
ALWAYS RETURN THE ENGINE THROTTLE LEVERS TO THE EXTREME LOW SPEED
POSITION BEFORE SHIFTING. NEVER SHIFT THE UNIT WHILE THE ENGINE SPEED IS
ABOVE 1000 RPM.
All transmissions require oil or fluid of some type for lubrication. This level should be checked at
the same interval as the engine oil level.
Your boat is equipped with transmissions supplied by the engine manufacturer. For details on the
transmissions, refer to the engine or transmission owner's manual.
1.3 Engine Exhaust System
Engine exhaust exits the rear of the boat through the exhaust system. The system consists of engine
exhaust manifolds, exhaust hoses, mufflers, and thru-hull exhaust fittings.
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Inboard boats use the exhaust system to relinquish exhaust gases and cooling water. A periodic
inspection of the hoses, mufflers and related parts should be made to insure that leaks or heat
deterioration have not resulted. Periodically inspect these items for signs of deterioration or
damage. Replace them as necessary.
DO NOT INHALE EXHAUST FUMES! EXHAUST CONTAINS CARBON MONOXIDE THAT IS
COLORLESS AND ODORLESS. CARBON MONOXIDE IS A DANGEROUS GAS THAT IS POTENTIALLY LETHAL.
1.4 Engine Cooling System
All marine engines use surface water as a cooling medium. The cooling water enters the system
through a water intake in the hull and is expelled through the exhaust system. Water is pumped
through the water inlets, circulated through the engine block or heat exchanger, and relinquished
with the exhaust gases through the exhaust system. The water pump uses a small impeller made
of synthetic rubber. The impeller and water pump cannot run dry for more than a few seconds.
Inboard engines use a thru hull water intake scoop and strainer. This strainer is located on the hull
bottom and must be kept free of mud, weeds and other debris. A ball valve is provided on each
intake thru hull. Be sure these valves are in the open position before operating the boat engines.
A standard in-line sea strainer is located above the intake thru hull strainers. These should be
visually inspected periodically, by looking through the glass case, for accumulation of marine
growth, weeds, and other foreign objects. If clogged or dirty, the strainer should be cleaned.
A CLOGGED SEA STRAINER CAN RESTRICT THE SUPPLY OF COOLING WATER TO THE
ENGINE AND EXHAUST COMPONENTS, WHICH COULD RESULT IN SEVERE ENGINE AND
EXHAUST SYSTEM DAMAGE.
Cleaning the sea strainers
•
Turn off the engines.
•
Close the engine water intake valve.
•
Open the top of the strainer and remove the screen.
•
Thoroughly flush the screen and the inside of the strainer to
remove foreign matter.
•
Lubricate the seal.
Engine Sea Strainer
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•
Reassemble the strainer making sure that all fasteners are tight.
•
Open the intake valve.
•
Start the engine and inspect the strainer for leaks.
SHOULD AN ENGINE INTAKE, EXHAUST OR COOLING HOSE RUPTURE, TURN OFF THE
ENGINE AND CLOSE THE ENGINE WATER INTAKE VALVE IMMEDIATELY. PROCEED,
UNDER TOW IF NECESSARY, TO A SERVICE FACILITY FOR APPROPRIATE REPAIRS.
MAINTAIN A CLOSE VISUAL WATCH ON THE PROBLEM HOSE AND THE BILGE WATER LEVEL.
Inboard boats utilize an exhaust hose to relinquish cooling water. A periodic inspection of the hose,
mufflers and related parts should be made to insure that leaks or heat deterioration have not resulted.
Installation of “Fresh Water Cooling” provides adequate engine cooling without exposing the
internal engine cooling system to the harmful effects of surface water. This system is standard with
diesel and gasoline engines on the 3000 Express. The engine owner’s manual provides additional
information regarding the service and maintenance of this equipment.
1.5 Propellers
When the boats are shipped, the propellers are not
factory installed. Initial installation of the propellers
will be performed by the dealer during pre-delivery
service. Should it be necessary to change propellers,
always use an appropriate removal tool or “Prop
Puller.” Do not attempt removal using a hammer.
Damage to the propeller, propeller shaft, or transmission can result.
Propeller Assembly
A few simple steps will enable you to install a propeller. First, insure that no burrs or rough edges
exist on the shaft, key, and both keyways. Try the key into the keyways. It must slide freely into
position without having side play. It might be necessary to file the key with a flat file to create the
correct tolerance.
To ensure the proper fit of your propeller, follow these procedures:
Step 1: Without the key installed, slip the propeller on the shaft by hand as far as it will go. Mark
the location at the front of the hub with a dry-marker and remove the propeller.
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3000 EXPRESS
Step 2: Install the key in the shaft.
Step 3: Again, slide the propeller into position by hand. Please note that the key should not extend
beyond the forward edge of the propeller hub. The propeller should reach the same spot
as before. If it does not, the key has probably moved up the keyway, or the key does not
fit properly in one or both of the keyways.
Step 4: Install the propeller nuts. When installing the shaft nuts, take care not to tighten them too
much. Do not force the nut into a tighter position by using a hammer or extension on the
arm of the wrench. Tighten the thin nut, then lock the wide nut tight against the thin nut
and insert the cotter pin.
If not properly installed, the propeller will be off balance and this is a frequent cause of vibration.
It could also cause the propeller hub to split.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO OPERATE THE BOAT IF THE PROPELLER DOES NOT FIT PROPERLY ON THE SHAFT. PROBLEMS SUCH AS SHAFT VIBRATION, PROPELLER HUB FAILURE OR SHAFT FAILURE MAY OCCUR.
Note:
Before changing propellers to correct boat performance problems, be sure other
factors such as engine tuning, bottom and running gear growth, etc., are not the
source of performance changes.
Note:
Always be sure the engine is properly tuned and load conditions are those normally
experienced, before changing propellers.
KEEP AWAY FROM THE PROPULSION MACHINERY DURING ITS OPERATION OR WHENEVER THE BOAT IS IN MOTION. MOVEMENT OF WATER PAST A PROPELLER CAN
CAUSE THE PROPELLER, SHAFT AND OTHER PROPULSION MACHINERY TO ROTATE
EVEN IF THAT EQUIPMENT IS NOT BEING OPERATED INTENTIONALLY.
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1-5
1.6 Running Gear
Shaft Logs and Dripless Seal
The shaft logs, which are fastened into the hull
bottom, allow the propeller shaft to extend and
rotate through the hull. The shaft log is equipped
with a special “Dripless” propeller shaft seal. To
lubricate this seal, sea water from the engine
cooling system is injected into the shaft seal through
a hose that is connected to the engine and the shaft
seal housing.
Propeller Shaft Seal
The shaft seal must have positive water injection any time the propeller shaft is rotating. The water
flow to the seal should be tested annually by removing the water injection hose from the seal fitting
and running the engine at idle with the transmission in neutral. There should be a positive flow of
water from the hose. If no water is flowing from the hose, contact your dealer or the Pursuit
Customer Relations Department before operating your boat. Some water will leak into the bilge
from the hose fitting on the seal assembly during this test. The hose should immediately be
reattached and the hose clamps tightened securely when the test is completed. Please refer to the
seal manufacturer owner's manual for additional information on the shaft seal.
Proper performance of the shaft seal is directly dependent upon correct propeller shaft alignment.
Propeller damage, a bent strut or shaft, or abnormal wear, settling, etc. are common reasons for
misalignment. This can cause such problems as repeated shaft leakage, excess seal wear, shaft log
and assembly damage, premature strut bearing wear, etc. It is, therefore, important that the
alignment be periodically checked and adjustments are made when necessary.
ALWAYS BE SURE TO USE THE SHAFT REMOVAL SLEEVE AND FOLLOW THE SEAL
MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS WHEN REMOVING OR INSTALLING A PROPELLER
SHAFT. IMPROPERLY REMOVING OR INSTALLING A PROPELLER SHAFT CAN PERMANENTLY DAMAGE THE SHAFT SEAL AND CAUSE IT TO LEAK.
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3000 EXPRESS
Struts
The struts are the metal castings bolted to the bottom of the hull to secure the aft end of the propeller
shafts. A replaceable cutlass bearing, also called a strut bearing, is used to minimize shaft wear.
The strut bearing should be inspected once a year, or whenever the boat is hauled, to insure that
there has been no damage or deterioration and that the strut bearing is not worn excessively. Upon
inspection of the bearing, a small amount of play between the propeller shaft and bearing, .008"
to .010", is normal. This gap allows water to pass between the bearing and the shaft to lubricate
the bearing surface. If the rubber bearing shows signs of deterioration, or excessive wear, greater
than .015" play between the bearing and the shaft surfaces, the bearing should be replaced and you
should contact your Pursuit dealer. It is advisable, during lay-up periods, to insert some castor oil
into the rubber bearing to keep it from “freezing” to the shaft. Never use machine oil or grease on
the rubber bearing.
THE OPERATION OF THE BOAT IN HEAVILY SILTED OR POLLUTED WATER, WITH A
DAMAGED PROPELLER, A DAMAGED PROPELLER SHAFT OR WITH THE ENGINE OUT
OF ALIGNMENT, CAN SIGNIFICANTLY SHORTEN THE LIFE OF THE STRUT BEARING.
IF YOU EXPERIENCE ANY OF THESE SITUATIONS, THE BEARING SHOULD BE
CHECKED MORE FREQUENTLY.
ALWAYS CHECK THE ENGINE ALIGNMENT AFTER REPLACING THE STRUT BEARING.
Propeller Shaft Alignment
The propeller shaft coupling and the transmission
coupling should be checked for proper alignment
beginning with the first launching, again after 20
hours of engine operation, and annually thereafter. The alignment should especially be checked
if noise or vibration occurs.
Excessive vibration, abnormal strut bearing wear,
or broken propeller shaft coupling bolts are an
indication of misalignment. Misalignment can
also cause severe damage to the shaft log, strut,
shaft and the engine transmission. Realignment
should only be performed by a qualified service
person.
Propeller Shaft Coupler
The correct procedure for checking the shaft alignment so a boat owner can determine if service
work is required, is as follows:
Step 1:
Remove the bolts that secure the propeller shaft flanges.
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1-7
Step 2:
Hold the propeller shaft flange firmly against the transmission flange.
Step 3:
Try to insert a .004" feeler gauge at the top, the bottom and at both sides between the
flanges. If it can be easily inserted between the flanges in any area, try inserting a larger
feeler gauge until you determine the amount of variance.
Step 4:
While holding the transmission flange, turn the prop shaft 90 degrees and repeat step 3.
A straight shaft in proper alignment will not allow the insertion of a feeler gauge larger
than .004", regardless of the prop shaft position.
Step 5:
If a gap larger than .004" is found and the gap moves as the shaft flange is rotated, the
flange or the prop shaft is bent out of tolerance and must be replaced or removed and
straightened. If the gap remains at the same position regardless of the propeller shaft
rotated position, the engine must be realigned. At this point, a Pursuit dealer should be
contacted.
NOTE: The boat should always be at rest in the water when checking or aligning the
propeller shaft.
MAKE SURE THE PROPELLER SHAFT FLANGE BOLTS ARE TIGHTENED SECURELY AFTER CHECKING THE ENGINE ALIGNMENT AND BEFORE OPERATING THE BOAT.
SPECIAL NOTE:
1-8
Lifting the boat with lifting straps over the prop shafts will cause the shafts
to become bent. Always position lifting straps so they are clear of the
running gear.
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1.7 Engine Instrumentation
The helm station is equipped with a set of engine instruments and/or alarms. These instruments allow the pilot to
monitor the engine operational conditions. Close observation of these instruments allows the pilot to operate the
engines at the most efficient level and could save the engines
from serious costly damage. The instrumentation is unique
to the type of inboard motors installed on your Pursuit.
Some or all of the following gauges may be present.
Tachometer
The tachometer displays the speed of the engine in revolutions per minute (RPM). This speed is not the boat speed nor
necessarily the speed of the propeller. The tachometer may
not register zero with the key in the “OFF” position.
Instrument Panel
NEVER EXCEED THE MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED OPERATION RPM OF THE ENGINE.
MAINTAINING MAXIMUM, OR CLOSE TO MAXIMUM RPM FOR EXTENDED PERIODS CAN
REDUCE THE LIFE OF THE ENGINE.
Speedometer
The speedometer indicates the speed of the boat in miles per hour.
Temperature
The temperature gauge shows the temperature of the engine cooling system. A sudden increase
in the temperature could indicate an obstructed water inlet or an impeller failure.
CONTINUED OPERATION OF AN OVERHEATED ENGINE CAN RESULT IN ENGINE SEIZURE. IF AN UNUSUALLY HIGH TEMPERATURE READING OCCURS, SHUT THE ENGINE
OFF IMMEDIATELY. THEN INVESTIGATE AND CORRECT THE PROBLEM.
Oil Pressure Gauge
The oil pressure gauge monitors the engine lubrication system pressure. The oil pressure indicated
when the engine is new is usually the reference for normal oil pressure for that engine. A drop in
oil pressure is a possible indication of oil pump problems or a leak.
Fuel Gauge
The fuel gauge indicates the amount of fuel in the fuel tank. This gauge is merely a relative
indication of the available fuel supply and not a calibrated instrument.
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Voltmeter
The voltmeter displays the voltage for the battery and the charging system. The normal voltage is
11 to 12 volts with the engine off, and 13 to 14.5 volts with the engine running.
Hour Meter
The hour meter keeps a record of the operating time for the engine. The hour meters are located
in the helm instrument panel or near the battery selector switches in the stern.
Synchronizer Gauge (Optional)
The synchronizer gauge indicates whether or not the engines are operating at the same RPM. The
throttles should be set so the needle is centered.
Rudder Position Indicator
The rudder position indicator shows the current position of the rudders. The rudder indicator gauge
is not a calibrated instrument and is intended to show the approximate position of the rudders,
primarily as a reference when maneuvering in tight quarters. Wind and currents will cause a
deviation in the rudder indicator reading.
Depth Gauge (Optional)
The depth gauge indicates the depth of the water below the bottom of the boat.
Fuel Management (Optional)
Fuel management systems are optional and could be installed on your boat. The fuel management
gauge is used to monitor the gallons per hour and also total gallons used. If you have a fuel
management system installed on your boat, please refer to the engine or fuel management manual
for information on that system.
Engine Alarm
Most inboard engines are equipped with an audible alarm system mounted in the helm area that
monitors selected critical engine systems. The alarm will sound if one of these systems begins to
fail. Refer to the engine owner’s manual for information on the alarms installed with your engine.
IF AN ENGINE ALARM SOUNDS, IMMEDIATELY SHUT OFF THE ENGINE UNTIL THE
PROBLEM IS FOUND AND CORRECTED.
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Compass
The compass is on top of the console. To adjust the compass for
your area, read the instructions on “Compass Compensation”
given to you in the literature packet. The compass cannot be
adjusted accurately at the factory because it must be compensated for the influence of the electrical equipment and electronics
unique to your boat. Therefore, the compass should be adjusted
by a professional after the electronics are installed and before
operating the boat.
Compass
Instrument Maintenance
Electrical protection for instruments and ignition circuitry is provided by a breaker located on the
engine. The ignition switch and instrument wire connectors should be sprayed periodically with
a contact cleaner/lubricant. The ignition switch and all instruments, controls, etc. should be
protected from the weather when not in use. Excessive exposure can lead to gauge and ignition
switch difficulties.
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INTENTIONALLY
3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 2:
HELM CONTROL SYSTEMS
2.1 General
The helm controls consist of three systems: the engine throttle and shift controls, the steering
system, and the trim tab control switches. These systems provide the operator with the ability to
control the direction and attitude of the boat from the helm station.
Each manufacturer of the control components provides an owner’s manual with its product. It is
important that you read the manuals and become familiar with the proper care and operation of the
control systems.
2.2 Engine Throttle and Shift Controls
The shift and throttle controls on your boat may vary
depending on the engines used. The following control
description is typical of most inboard remote controls.
Refer to the engine or control manuals for specific information on the controls installed on your Pursuit.
The helm is designed for a binnacle style engine throttle
and shift control system that typically consists of three
major components: the helm throttle and shift controls,
the throttle cables and the shift cables. The cables are the
push-pull type. Movement of the helm control arm
pushes or pulls a cable that operates the engine throttle or
transmission control lever. One control arm and cable is
Controls
required for each engine throttle to control the carburetors
(fuel injection systems on diesels and most gasoline
engines), and one control arm and cable is required to control each transmission. A typical twin
engine inboard will have two throttle controls and two transmission controls at each helm station.
Each control is equipped with a means of permitting the engine to be operated at a higher than idle
RPM while in neutral for cold starting and warm-up purposes. Some diesel powered boats also may
be equipped with a cable throttle friction brake located on the throttle cable near the fuel injection
system. The friction brake may be required to overcome the return spring pressure on the fuel
injector throttle lever and prevent the throttle from creeping back.
During most operations of a twin engine boat, it is advantageous for both engines to be operated
at the same RPM. This reduces noise, and vibration, and can increase engine efficiency. Setting
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the throttles so that the engines are running the same RPM (synchronized) can be done by listening
to the engine sounds, or with an engine synchronizer. Attempting to synchronize the engines solely
by using the tachometer readings or control lever placement generally will not work. When the
engines are in proper synchronization, the throttle levers may not necessarily be even. Please refer
to the engine or control manual for more information on the controls installed on your boat.
2.3 Engine Synchronizer (Optional)
Your boat could be equipped with an engine synchronizing system. When the system is on, the
synchronizer monitors the RPM of each engine and automatically keeps them at the same RPM.
When the system is turned off, the unit has no effect on the normal manual throttle operation.
Synchronizers vary in operation from different manufacturers, but generally, the system is activated
and deactivated by a switch at the helm. When the synchronizer is on, one master throttle will
control the RPM of both engines. Engine synchronizers require specific procedures for engagement and disengagement of the system that must be performed in the proper sequence.
The engine synchronizer manufacturer provides an owner’s manual with its product. It is
extremely important that you read the manual and become familiar with the proper care and
operation of the synchronizer before using it with your boat.
2.4 Neutral Safety Switch
Every control system has a neutral safety switch. This device prohibits the engine from being
started while the shift lever is in any position other than the neutral position. If the engine will not
start, slight movement of the shift lever may be necessary to locate the neutral position and
disengage the safety cutout switch. Control or cable adjustments may be required to correct this
condition, should it persist. See your Pursuit dealer for necessary control and cable adjustments.
The neutral safety switch should be tested periodically to insure that it is operating properly. To
test the neutral safety switch, move the shift levers to the forward position with the engines off.
Make sure the throttle levers are set to the idle position. Activate the starter switch for each engine
just long enough to briefly engage the starter. Do not hold the starter switch in the start position
long enough to start the engine. The starter should not engage for either engine. Repeat this test
with the shift levers in reverse and the engine throttles at idle. Again the starter should not engage
for either engine. If the starter for either engine engages with the shift controls in any position other
than the neutral position, then the neutral safety switch is not functioning properly and you should
contact your dealer and have the neutral safety switch repaired before using your boat. If an engine
starts in gear during this test, immediately move the shift levers to the neutral position. Turn the
engines off and have the problem corrected by a qualified marine mechanic before using the boat.
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3000 EXPRESS
IN SOME SITUATIONS, IT MAY BE POSSIBLE TO ACCIDENTALLY START THE ENGINES
IN GEAR WITH THE THROTTLES ABOVE IDLE IF THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH IS
NOT OPERATING PROPERLY. THIS WOULD CAUSE THE BOAT TO ACCELERATE UNEXPECTEDLY IN FORWARD OR REVERSE AND COULD RESULT IN LOSS OF CONTROL,
DAMAGE TO THE BOAT, OR INJURY TO PASSENGERS. ALWAYS TEST THE NEUTRAL
SAFETY SWITCH PERIODICALLY AND CORRECT ANY PROBLEMS BEFORE USING THE
BOAT.
2.5 Steering System
Steering System
The steering system is hydraulic and made of two main components: the helm assembly and the
hydraulic cylinder. The helm unit acts as both a fluid reservoir and pump. Turning of the helm,
or steering wheel, pumps the fluid in the hydraulic hoses and activates the hydraulic cylinder
causing the rudders to turn. A slight clicking sound may be heard as the wheel is turned. This sound
is the opening and closing of valves in the helm unit and is normal. Refer to the manufacturer
owner’s manual for specific information on the steering system.
Dual engine inboard boats have two rudders. These are coupled together at the tiller arms by a tie
bar. The rudders are toed-in 1/4" at the front to provide maximum stability on straight ahead runs
and proper tracking through corners. Rudder or steering system damage may require the rudders
to be realigned.
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2.6 Trim Tabs
The trim tabs are recessed into the hull on the transom. A dual rocker
switch is used to control the trim tabs. The switch is labeled and controls
bow up and down movements. It also controls starboard and port up and
down movements. Bow up and bow down will control the hull planing
attitude, while port and starboard up and down provides control for the
hull listing.
Before leaving the dock, make sure that the tabs are in the full “UP”
position by holding the control in the bow up position for ten (10) seconds.
Always establish the intended heading and cruise speed before attempting to adjust the hull attitude with the trim tabs. After stabilizing speed and
direction, move the trim tabs to achieve a level side to side running attitude
being careful not to over trim.
Trim Tab Switch
After depressing a trim tab switch, always wait a few
seconds for the change in the trim plane to take effect.
Avoid depressing the switch while awaiting the trim
plane reaction. By the time the effect is noticeable the
trim tab plane will have moved too far and thus the boat
will be in an overcompensated position.
When running at a speed that will result in the boat falling
off plane, lowering the tabs slightly, bow down, will
improve the running angle and operating efficiency. Too
much bow down tabs can reduce operating efficiency and
cause substantial steering and handling difficulties.
Be extremely careful when operating in a following sea.
The effect of trim tabs is amplified under such conditions.
Steering and handling difficulties can result from improper trim tab usage, particularly in a following sea.
Always raise the tabs to the full bow up position in these
conditions.
Trim Tab Plane
When running at high speeds be sure that the tabs are in the full “UP” position. Only enough
trim plane action should be used to compensate for any listing. Trim tabs are extremely sensitive
at high speeds. Adjust for this and be prepared to slow down if difficulties arise.
When running into a chop, a slight bow down attitude will improve the ride. Be careful not to over
trim. Handling difficulties may result.
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3000 EXPRESS
2.7 Control Systems Maintenance
Control Maintenance
Periodic inspection of the control systems and all connections should be made. Signs of rust,
corrosion, wear, or other deterioration should be serviced immediately. Generally, periodic
lubrication of all moving parts and connections with a light waterproof grease is in order.
Lubrication should be performed as often as necessary to keep the system operating smoothly.
Control system adjustments may become necessary. If adjustment becomes necessary, see your
Pursuit dealer.
DO NOT ATTEMPT CONTROL SYSTEM ADJUSTMENTS UNLESS YOU ARE FAMILIAR
WITH CONTROL SYSTEM SERVICING PROCEDURES. MISADJUSTMENT CAN CAUSE
LOSS OF CONTROL AND SEVERE ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.
Steering System Maintenance
A periodic inspection of all steering hoses, linkage and helm assemblies should be made. Signs of
corrosion, cracking, loosening of fastenings, excessive wear, or deterioration should be corrected
immediately. The fluid level for the hydraulic steering should be checked frequently and
maintained at the proper level. Generally, periodic lubrication of all moving parts and connections
with a light waterproof grease is in order. Failure to do so could lead to steering system failure that
would result in loss of control.
When new, or after repairs, hydraulic steering systems may need to have all air purged from the
system. Review the information provided by the steering manufacturer for proper specifications
and details on system service and maintenance.
The boat also should be inspected periodically for
leakage around the rudder ports. The rudder ports
contain a lip seal that provides 100% water tight
operation. The seals are self-lubricating and require no maintenance. If a rudder port is found to
be leaking, please contact your Pursuit dealer or
the Pursuit Customer Relations Department.
If the rudders have to be removed for any reason,
the red plastic seal protector must used to prevent
the keyway in the rudder shaft from damaging the
lip seal in the rudder port. The seal protectors are
installed on the rudder shaft above the rudder port.
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Rudder and Rudder Port
2-5
Trim Tab Maintenance
Marine growth can interfere with the proper operation of the trim tab planes and actuators. To
reduce problems due to marine growth, always return the trim tabs to the full “UP” position after
operating the boat and periodically inspect and clean marine growth from the actuators and planes.
The trim tab fluid should be checked often. Keep the fluid level between the marks on the trim tab
pump reservoir.
The trim tabs are equipped with a zinc anode to prevent galvanic corrosion. Galvanic corrosion
is the corrosion process occurring when different metals are submerged in an electrolyte. Sea water
is an electrolyte and submerged metal components must be properly protected. The anodes will
need to be monitored and changed when they are 75% of their original size.
Refer to the trim tab owner’s manual for additional maintenance information, fluid specifications
and operating instructions.
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3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 3:
FUEL SYSTEM
Diesel Fuel System
3.1 General
The fuel system used in Pursuit boats is designed to meet or exceed the requirements of the U.S.
Coast Guard, the Boating Industry Association, and The American Boat and Yacht Council in
effect at the time of manufacture.
All gasoline and diesel fuel systems have been factory inspected and pressure tested in accordance
with regulations in effect at the time of manufacture. This inspection assures that the system is air
tight, leak proof and safe. It is the responsibility of the purchaser to maintain it in that condition.
Make frequent inspections to assure that no deterioration or loosening of connections is resulting
from vibration.
DO NOT LET THE ODOR OF GASOLINE GO UNCHECKED. ANY ODOR OF GASOLINE
MUST BE INVESTIGATED IMMEDIATELY AND STEPS TAKEN TO PROTECT THE BOAT
AND ITS OCCUPANTS UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS CORRECTED. IF THE ODOR OF GASOLINE IS NOTED, SHUT OFF ALL ENGINES AND ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT. INVESTIGATE
AND CORRECT THE SITUATION IMMEDIATELY. HAVE ALL PASSENGERS PUT ON PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES AND KEEP FIRE EXTINGUISHERS READY UNTIL THE SITUATION IS RESOLVED.
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Fuel Withdrawal Tubes
The fuel withdrawal tubes are positioned in the fuel tanks to achieve optimum fuel usage, fuel line
routing, etc. At certain speeds and hull trim angles, the fuel supply at the withdrawal tank location
can increase or decrease accordingly. Be extremely careful when attempting to operate the boat
when low on fuel. Though some fuel may be in the tank, the relative trim angle of the boat may
cause the fuel to flow away from the withdrawal tubes.
Fuel Gauge
This indicates the amount of fuel in the tanks. Due to the mechanical nature of the fuel sender,
variations in readings during various speeds of operation may occur. This system is merely a
relative indication of the available fuel supply and not a calibrated instrument. A fuel gauge is
located in the gauge cluster for each engine.
Fuel Fills
A fuel fill deck plate is located on each gunnel, and is marked “GAS”
or “DIESEL.” The fuel fill is opened by turning it counter clockwise
with a special key. After fueling, install the fuel cap and tighten with
the key. Be sure to use the proper type and grade fuel. Refer to the
engine owner’s manual for additional information.
Fuel Fill
Note:
Do not overtighten the fuel cap. If the cap is overtightened, the O-ring seal could
be damaged allowing water to contaminate the fuel system.
DO NOT CONFUSE FUEL FILL DECK PLATES WITH THE WATER OR WASTE FILL DECK
PLATES. THESE PLATES ALSO ARE LABELED ACCORDINGLY. IF GASOLINE OR DIESEL FUEL IS ACCIDENTALLY PUMPED INTO THE WATER OR WASTE TANK, DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO PUMP IT OUT YOURSELF. WATER AND WASTE PUMPS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO PUMP FUEL AND A FIRE OR EXPLOSION COULD RESULT. CONTACT YOUR
DEALER OR THE PURSUIT CUSTOMER RELATIONS DEPARTMENT FOR ASSISTANCE IN
HAVING THE FUEL PROFESSIONALLY REMOVED.
Fuel Vents
There are two fuel vent fittings, one on each side of the hull. While the tank is being filled, the air
displaced by the fuel escapes through the vent. When the tank is full, fuel will be ejected from the
fuel vent.
After fueling, replace the fill cap(s), and wash the areas around the fuel fill plates and below the fuel
vent(s). Residual fuel left on the deck and hull sides can be dangerous and will yellow the fiberglass
or damage the striping.
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3000 EXPRESS
3.2 Gasoline Engine Fuel System
The fuel system on the Pursuit 3000
Express has two fuel tanks and two
manual fuel valves. The port tank fills
from the port gunnel and the starboard
tank fills from the starboard gunnel.
There is one “ON/OFF” valve for
each engine fuel line . The fuel valves
are located on the fuel tanks. The
valves are off when the handle is perpendicular to the fuel flow. They
should always be turned off before
servicing the fuel filters or any other
component of the fuel system.
Fuel Valves
The starboard engine is supplied by the starboard fuel tank and the port engine is supplied by the
port fuel tank. There are no valves that allow the selection of the fuel tanks. This is because some
engines with fuel injection circulate much more fuel than they consume to cool the fuel and reduce
the possibility of a vapor lock. Some fuel injected gasoline engines return the unburned fuel to the
fuel tanks, while other fuel injected engines return the fuel to a vapor separating tank on the engine.
If the unburned fuel is returned to the fuel tanks, it is extremely important that it is returned to the
same tank that is suppling the engine. This eliminates the possibility of fuel being supplied by one
fuel tank and returned to the other tank, a situation which could cause one of the fuel tanks to become
overfilled and fuel to flow out the fuel tank vent. Please refer to the engine owner's manual for
specific information for the fuel system used on the engines installed in your boat.
Fuel withdrawal lines are equipped with anti-siphon valves where the lines attach to the fuel tanks.
These valves prevent gasoline from siphoning out of the fuel tank should a line rupture.
DO NOT REMOVE THE ANTI-SIPHON VALVES FROM THE SYSTEM. SHOULD AN ANTISIPHON VALVE BECOME CLOGGED, CLEAN AND REINSTALL OR REPLACE. IF A FUEL
LINE SHOULD LEAK, ANTI-SIPHON VALVES PREVENT A SUBSTANTIAL AMOUNT OF FUEL
FROM FLOWING INTO THE BILGE. ANTI-SIPHON VALVES ARE REQUIRED, BY THE U.S.
COAST GUARD, TO BE INSTALLED IN ALL BOATS EQUIPPED WITH GASOLINE ENGINES.
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Gasoline Fuel Filter
Each gasoline engine is equipped with a spin on, water separator type
fuel filter. The filter should be checked frequently and changed at least
annually to assure an adequate supply of clean, dry fuel to the engine.
It is recommended that the filters are inspected after the first 25 hours
of use and then serviced as needed. Follow the engine or filter
manufacturer’s instructions for servicing or replacing the fuel filters.
Note:
Clean fuel is especially important in fuel injected engines, and the engine manufacturer's recommendations
for fuel filter maintenance must be followed exactly.
Fuel Filter
TO REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF A FIRE OR EXPLOSION, MAKE SURE ALL ELECTRICAL SWITCHES ARE IN THE “OFF” POSITION BEFORE SERVICING THE FUEL SYSTEM.
DO NOT DRAIN ANY FUEL IN THE BILGE. THIS COULD LEAD TO A FIRE OR EXPLOSION.
CHECK ALL FUEL LINE FITTINGS FOR LEAKS BEFORE AND AFTER STARTING THE
ENGINES FOLLOWING ANY FUEL SYSTEM SERVICE.
BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINES, ALWAYS OPEN ALL HATCHES, WINDOWS, AND DOORS
AND RUN THE BLOWER FOR AT LEAST FIVE (5) MINUTES TO COMPLETELY VENTILATE THE BOAT AFTER SERVICING THE FUEL SYSTEM.
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3.3 Diesel Engine Fuel System
The diesel fuel system works much like the gas system. The main difference is the diesel system
is not equipped with anti-siphon valves, and there is always a fuel return line for the engine that
returns unused fuel to its respective fuel tank.
Proper diesel engine operation requires a good supply of clean, dry diesel fuel. Improper marina
fuel storage techniques, limited boat usage, etc. can cause the fuel to become contaminated.
Periodically, it may be necessary to pump accumulating water and contaminated fuel from the
bottom of the fuel tanks. If the fuel system on your boat becomes contaminated, contact your dealer
or the Pursuit Customer Relations Department for assistance.
Algae can grow in the accumulated water in diesel fuel tanks. This condition is most prevalent in
warm climates. Periodically adding a high quality diesel fuel additive containing an algicide may
be required to control algae in your boating area. Please contact your Pursuit dealer or engine
manufacturer for additional information regarding fuels and additives.
IMPORTANT:
Do not allow the boat to sit unused for an extended period with the fuel
tanks less than full. Changes in temperature and weather conditions can
cause condensation in fuel tanks that are less than 3/4 full.
Diesel Fuel Filters
The diesel fuel filters are installed in the engine compartment near the engines. The diesel fuel
filters are equipped with a sensor that will light a warning light in the helm, if too much water
accumulates in the filter. A shut-off valve for each fuel line is located on the fuel tanks. The fuel
line shut-off valves should always be closed before servicing the fuel filters. Check the filters for
water before each use and replace the filter cartridge as needed.
Water is drained from the filters by placing a cup under the filter and draining through the petcock
at the bottom of the filter until clean fuel flows. It is particularly important to monitor the condition
of the fuel filters frequently because most diesel engines circulate much more fuel than they
consume. Because of the volume of fuel that flows through the filters, the elements must be changed
at least twice a season or more frequently depending on the quality of the fuel and the hours run.
Follow the filter or engine manufacturer’s instructions for cleaning and replacing the filter elements.
IMPORTANT: Diesel fuel systems may need to be primed after servicing. Refer to the
engine owner’s manual for information on priming the fuel system.
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3-5
3.4 Fueling Instructions
FUEL IS VERY FLAMMABLE AND CAN CAUSE A FIRE OR AN EXPLOSION. BE CAREFUL WHEN FILLING THE FUEL TANKS. NO SMOKING. NEVER FILL THE TANKS WHILE
THE ENGINES ARE RUNNING. FILL THE FUEL TANKS IN AN OPEN AREA. DO NOT
FILL THE TANKS NEAR OPEN FLAMES.
TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE FUEL SYSTEM, USE ONLY A GOOD GRADE OF GASOLINE FOR GASOLINE ENGINES OR DIESEL FUEL FOR DIESEL ENGINES. DO NOT USE
A FUEL THAT CONTAINS HARSH ADDITIVES OR IS AN ALCOHOL BLEND. ANY DAMAGE DONE TO THE FUEL SYSTEM THAT IS THE RESULT OF USE OF AN ALCOHOL
BLEND, IS NOT COVERED BY THE PURSUIT WARRANTY. REFER TO THE ENGINE MANUFACTURER OWNER’S MANUAL REGARDING FUEL REQUIREMENTS FOR YOUR ENGINE.
To fill the fuel tanks at a marina, follow this procedure:
Note:
3-6
1.
Make sure all switches are in the “OFF” position.
2.
Make sure the boat is securely moored.
3.
Make sure all passengers leave the boat.
4.
Estimate how much fuel is needed.
When the fuel tank is full, fuel will come out through the fuel tank vent. The fuel
tank vents are located on the side of the boat. Monitor the vents closely, while
fueling, to prevent fuel from spilling into the water.
5.
A special key to open the fuel caps is supplied.
6.
Turn the key counter clockwise to open the cap.
7.
Remove the cap.
8.
Put the nozzle in the fuel opening.
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STATIC ELECTRICITY CAN BE GENERATED WHILE FUELING AND CAN CAUSE A FIRE
OR EXPLOSION. TO PREVENT STATIC SPARKS WHEN FILLING THE TANK, MAKE SURE
THE NOZZLE IS IN CONTACT WITH THE FUEL OPENING.
SPILLED FUEL CAN CAUSE A FIRE OR AN EXPLOSION. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT SPILL
ANY FUEL. IF A SMALL AMOUNT OF FUEL IS SPILLED ON THE FIBERGLASS, USE A
CLOTH TO REMOVE THE FUEL, AND PROPERLY DISPOSE OF THE CONTAMINATED
CLOTH. IF FUEL IS SPILLED ON THE WATER, EXERCISE EXTREME CAUTION. FUEL
FLOATS ON THE SURFACE OF THE WATER, AND CAN IGNITE. IF FUEL IS SPILLED
INTO THE WATER, IMMEDIATELY EVACUATE THE AREA AND NOTIFY THE MARINA
AND THE PROPER OFFICIALS.
9.
Fill the tank slightly less than the rated capacity to avoid spilling fuel out of the
vent or the fuel fill and to allow for expansion.
10.
Remove the nozzle.
11.
Install the fuel cap.
12.
Open all hatches, windows and doors. Run the blower for at least five minutes
to completely ventilate the boat.
13.
Check the fuel compartment and below the deck for fuel odors. If you smell fuel,
do not start the engine.
BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINES, ALWAYS OPEN ALL HATCHES, WINDOWS, AND
DOORS. RUN THE BLOWER FOR AT LEAST FIVE (5) MINUTES TO COMPLETELY VENTILATE THE BOAT AFTER SERVICING THE FUEL SYSTEM.
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF A FIRE AND/OR EXPLOSION, DO NOT START THE ENGINES
WHEN FUEL FUMES ARE PRESENT. FUEL FUMES ARE DANGEROUS AND HARMFUL TO
YOUR HEALTH. MAKE SURE ALL GASOLINE ODORS ARE INVESTIGATED IMMEDIATELY.
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3.5 Fuel System Maintenance
Periodically inspect all connections, clamps and hoses for leakage and damage or deterioration.
Replace as necessary. Spray the valves, tank fuel gauge sender and ground connections with a
metal protector.
Frequently inspect and lubricate the fuel fill cap O-ring seal with petroleum jelly or silicone grease.
The O-ring seal prevents water from entering the fuel system through the fuel fill cap and it should
be replaced immediately if there is any sign of damage or deterioration.
Periodically, remove the fuel tank vents and clean corrosion and salt buildup from the vent screens.
The screens will prevent insects and other foreign matter from contaminating the fuel and fuel
system. Fuel vents should be replaced if the vents or screens are damaged or badly corroded. Fuel
vent screens that are clogged will prevent the fuel tanks from venting properly and make filling the
fuel tanks difficult or cause fuel supply problems to the engines.
Be sure the screens are secure and that the fuel tank vent hose is properly routed and attached when
the vents are reinstalled or replaced. The fuel tank vent hose must be looped above the vent, secured
to the hull near the vent and securely attached to the vent hose fitting with two hose clamps.
Contaminated fuel may cause serious damage to your engines. The filters must be checked for
water and other contamination frequently. The filter elements must be changed at least once a
season or more frequently depending on the type of engine and the quality of the fuel. Please refer
to the engine or fuel filter manufacturer’s instructions for information on servicing and replacing
the fuel filter elements.
The age of gasoline can affect engine performance. Chemical changes occur as the gasoline ages
that can cause deposits and varnish in the fuel system as well as reduce the octane rating of the fuel.
Severely degraded fuel can damage the engine and boat fuel tank and lines. Therefore, if your boat
is not being run enough to require at least one full tank of fresh fuel a month, a fuel stabilizer should
be added to the gasoline to protect the fuel from degradation. Your dealer or the engine
manufacturer can provide additional information on fuel degradation and fuel stabilizers recommended for your engine.
Avoid using fuels with alcohol additives. Gasoline that is an alcohol blend will absorb moisture
from the air which can reach such concentrations that "phase separation" can occur whereby the
water and alcohol mixture becomes heavy enough to settle out of the gasoline to the bottom of the
tank. Since the fuel pick up tube is very near the bottom of the tank, phase separation can cause
the engine to run very poorly or not at all. This condition is more severe with methyl alcohol and
will worsen as the alcohol content increases. Water or a jelly like substance in the fuel filters are
an indication of phase separation from the use of alcohol blended fuels.
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DO NOT DRAIN ANY FUEL INTO THE BILGE. THIS COULD LEAD TO A FIRE OR EXPLOSION.
AFTER THE FILTER ELEMENT HAS BEEN CHANGED, PRIME THE FUEL SYSTEM AND
CHECK ALL FITTINGS FOR LEAKS BEFORE AND AFTER STARTING THE ENGINES.
BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINES, ALWAYS OPEN ALL HATCHES, WINDOWS, AND
DOORS AND RUN THE BLOWER FOR AT LEAST FIVE (5) MINUTES TO COMPLETELY
VENTILATE THE BOAT AFTER SERVICING THE FUEL SYSTEM.
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Chapter 4:
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
4.1 General
Your Pursuit is equipped with 110-volt AC and 12-volt DC electrical systems. The AC system can
draw current from one of two sources, either shore power outlets at dock side or the optional
generator. The DC system draws current from on board batteries.
The 12-volt batteries in your boat are usually the lead-acid type. They will require similar
maintenance as those found in automobiles.
There are electrical schematics included in this manual to aid in following an individual circuit of
the boat.
4.2 12-Volt System
The 12-volt system is a fairly standard marine system. There are three batteries, one for the starboard
engine, one for the port engine and a house or accessory battery. The batteries themselves can be
charged by the engines or by the battery charger when hooked to shore power or when operating
the optional generator. An automatic 12-volt current control system called the "Total Automatic
Battery System" (TABS) manages the charging current for the 12-volt system whenever the
engines are running. The TABS automatically senses the condition of each battery and directs the
available current to the batteries that require charging. The system is equipped with a battery
parallel feature that will connect all three batteries in parallel for extra battery power while starting
the engines. The battery parallel switch is a momentary switch located in the helm switch panel
that is labeled either “Accessory” or “Parallel.” A red LED light on the front of the TABS unit
indicates that the parallel switch is activated. Please refer to the TABS owner's manual for
additional information on the operation and maintenance of this system.
All 12-volt power is distributed to the 12-volt accessories through individual circuit breakers
located in the 12-volt breaker panel in the cabin. A main breaker located on the front of the TABS
unit protects the system from an overload. Other circuit breakers, located on the front of the TABS
unit, protect the circuit for the optional windlass, the main DC power and the automatic float
switches for the aft and forward bilge pumps. The engine main breakers located on each engine
protects the ignition systems and gauges. Some 12-volt accessories are operated directly by a circuit
breaker in the cabin breaker panel while others are operated by a switch fed by the panel breakers.
Most of the 12-volt accessories on the deck and cockpit are operated by switches in the helm and
accessory switch panels.
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PROPER FUSE OR BREAKER PROTECTION MUST BE PROVIDED FOR ALL 12-VOLT
EQUIPMENT ADDED. DO NOT OVERLOAD THE ACCESSORY CIRCUIT BREAKERS OR
OTHER CIRCUITRY THROUGH ADDITIONAL 12-VOLT EQUIPMENT.
Battery Switches
There are three “ON” - “OFF” battery switches
located on the front of the TABS unit. The
switches are activated using special keys that are
attached to the TABS case. The port battery
switch is labeled “Port” and activates the port
engine, the starboard battery switch is labeled
“Starboard” and activates the starboard engine
and the center battery switch is labeled “House”
or “Auxiliary” and activates the 12-volt breaker
panel in the cabin and all other 12-volt accessories. Make sure that all three switches are activated whenever the engines are running to insure
that all 12-volt accessories will operate when they
are needed. Red LED lights above each switch
indicate that the switch is on.
TABS
The TABS controls the charging of all three batteries whenever one or both of the engines is
operating. When one or both engines is started, the engine alternator(s) start to recharge the
batteries. This charging current passes through the TABS sensing circuit. This circuit senses the
charge and, after a one minute delay, switches relays to connect the “Auxiliary” or “House” battery
in parallel with the engine batteries. Thus the charge from the engine(s) is split between the batteries
with the lowest battery receiving the most charge. When the engines are turned off, the charging
stops and the sensing circuit turns off the relays, disconnecting the “Auxiliary” or “House” battery
from the cranking batteries, thereby automatically isolating the batteries from one another.
Note:
The relays in the TABS are set to a one minute delay. This is to eliminate relay
chatter on diesel powered boats when the ignition switches are first activated. The
chatter is caused by the relatively high current draw of the heating elements for the
air induction system in the engines. The chattering will not occur when at least one
of the engines is started and the alternator begins charging the batteries. If one or
both of the volt meters read below 12 volts after one minute, raise the engine RPM
to 1000 for several seconds then return them to idle. This will “excite” the
alternators and cause them to activate.
When in port or at anchor, the switch that supplies the port engine and the switch that supplies the
starboard engine should be off. Only the center battery switch that activates the “Auxiliary” or the
“House” battery should be on. This will keep the engine starting batteries in reserve for starting
the engines. All three battery switches should be in the “OFF” position when leaving the boat
unattended.
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Note:
Current is supplied to the automatic float switches for the bilge pumps when the
batteries are connected and the battery switches are off.
12-Volt Accessory Switch Panels
The main accessory switch panel is located at the helm. The circuit breakers
that protect the accessories are located in
another panel on the helm below the
switches.
The following is a description of the
accessories controlled by the main accessory switch panel:
Port Ignition Switch
The port ignition switch is a red, three12-Volt Accessory Switch Panel
position switch, located in the helm just
below the gauges, which activates the
port engine. The switch has an off, on and momentary start position. To start the engine, make
sure the shift lever is in the neutral position and your hand is on the throttle lever in the idle position.
Press the switch to the start position. When the engine starts release the switch and it will
automatically return to the run position. Stop the engine by pressing the switch to the off position.
It is protected by a breaker located in the helm breaker panel and a main breaker located on the
engine.
Starboard Ignition Switch
The starboard ignition switch is a red, three-position switch, located in the helm just below the
gauges, which activates the starboard engine. The switch has an off, on and momentary start
position. To start the engine, make sure the shift lever is in the neutral position and your hand is
on the throttle lever in the idle position. Press the switch to the start position. When the engine starts,
release the switch and it will automatically return to the run position. Stop the engine by pressing
the switch to the off position. It is protected by a breaker located in the helm breaker panel and a
main breaker located on the engine.
Horn
Activates the boat horn.
Anchor/Nav Lights
The switch is a three-position switch. The middle position is “OFF.” Moving the switch in one
direction will activate the navigation lights. Moving the switch in the opposite direction activates
the anchor light.
Engine Room Lights
Activates the lights that illuminate the engine room.
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Cockpit Lights
Activates the lights that illuminate the cockpit area.
Spreader Lights
Activates the flood lights located on the optional radar arch or hardtop. These lights provide
additional lighting for the rear of the cockpit.
Bilge Blower
This switch supplies electrical current to the blower that provides ventilation to the engine
compartment prior to start up and while operating below cruise speed.
GASOLINE VAPORS CAN EXPLODE. BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINES, OPERATE THE
ENGINE COMPARTMENT BLOWER FOR FIVE (5) MINUTES, OPEN THE ENGINE HATCH,
INSPECT THE FUEL SYSTEM AND CHECK THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT FOR THE ODOR
OF GASOLINE VAPORS. ALWAYS OPERATE THE BLOWER WHILE THE ENGINE IS AT
IDLE AND BELOW CRUISE SPEED. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THIS PROCEDURE BE OVERLOOKED.
Note: Please refer to the DANGER and CAUTION notations in the Ventilation Systems.
Fwd Bilge Pump
Activates the forward bilge pump which is installed in the engine compartment bilge. The pump
moves water out through the thru-hull fitting in the hull. To start the pump manually, put
the switch in the “ON” position.
Aft Bilge Pump
Activates the stern bilge pump which is installed in the rear center of the bilge. The pump moves
water out through the thru-hull fitting in the hull. To start the pump manually, put the
switch in the “ON” position.
Note:
The bilge pumps will start automatically when there is sufficient water in the bilge
to activate the float switches. The float switches are protected by 10-amp circuit
breakers located on the TABS unit and are always supplied current when the
batteries are connected.
Panel Lights
Activates the engine gauge and compass lights.
Wiper
Activates windshield wipers.
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Trim Tab Switch
Located in the helm. This switch controls the trim tab planes located on the transom of the boat. It
is protected by the 20-amp breaker. Please refer to Chapter 2 for detailed information on the
operation of the trim tab controls.
Accessory Switches (3)
These switches are supplied to protect additional equipment that may or may not have been installed
by Pursuit or your Pursuit dealer. If no accessories are activated by these switches, they remain
wired in the panel in reserve. Some accessories that may be connected to the accessory switches
are: The hardtop lights, battery parallel switch or electronics.
Additional Accessory Switch Panels
Additional switch panels are located in various locations in the cockpit and helm area of the boat.
Most of these panels are equipped with one switch and one circuit breaker. The following is a
description of additional panels that may be on your Pursuit and the accessories they control:
Baitwell Switch
Located under the gunwale in the cockpit. This switch activates the baitwell circulating pump that
supplies water to the baitwell. The pump is protected by a circuit breaker in the panel and an
automatically resetting breaker on the pump motor.
Washdown Pump
This switch activates the raw water washdown pump. The pump is the pressure demand type and
is protected by a circuit breaker in the panel and an automatically resetting breaker on the pump
motor.
Note:
Please refer to the Raw Water System chapter for more information on the baitwell
and washdown systems.
FishBox Macerator Pump
The fishbox macerator switch panel is located in the rear of the cockpit near the transom door. It
is a momentary switch that activates the overboard macerator discharge system for the fishbox.
Windlass Switch
The windlass switch is located in the helm. This switch controls the optional windlass which is
mounted to the deck directly above the rope locker. It is protected by a circuit breaker of the type
and rating recommended by the windlass manufacturer.
12-Volt Receptacle
Provides electrical current for portable 12-volt equipment.
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Holding Tank Macerator
The holding tank overboard discharge macerator switch
panel is located in the head compartment next to the
holding tank monitor. It is a momentary switch that
activates the overboard macerator discharge system for
the holding tank. Refer to the Marine Head System in the
Interior Equipment chapter for additional information on
the operation of the overboard macerator discharge system.
Macerator Switch
Engine Hatch
The engine hatch control panel is located in the cockpit. It is a momentary switch that controls the
electric actuator for the engine hatch. Refer to the Exterior Equipment chapter for additional
information on the engine hatch lifter.
Cabin DC Accessory Breaker Panel
Power is distributed to most of the
12-volt accessories through individual circuit breakers located in
the cabin DC breaker panel. A
main breaker located on the TABS
unit protects the system from an
overload. Some 12-volt accessories are operated directly by the
circuit breaker in the panel while
others are operated by switches
fed by the panel breakers.
DC Breaker Panel
A DC voltage meter is located in the panel to monitor the voltage level in the batteries. It will
monitor the voltage of the house battery plus any electrical charges supplied to it when the engines
or the battery charger are operating.
PROPER FUSE OR BREAKER PROTECTION MUST BE PROVIDED FOR ALL 12-VOLT
EQUIPMENT ADDED. DO NOT OVERLOAD THE ACCESSORY CIRCUIT BREAKERS OR
OTHER CIRCUITRY THROUGH ADDITIONAL 12-VOLT EQUIPMENT.
The following is a description of the accessories controlled by the cabin DC breaker panel:
12-Volt Main
Supplies the 12-volt current to the cabin DC breaker panel and protects the panel from an overload.
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Stereo
Supplies 12-volt electrical current to the stereo.
TV/VCP
Supplies 12-volt electrical current to the TV and accessory plug in the cabin, when this option is
installed.
Electric Head
Supplies electrical current directly to the switch which controls the vacuum pump on the electric
head.
Electronics
Reserved for electronics installations.
Hatch Lifter
Supplies 12-volt electrical current to the hatch lifter control switch located in the cockpit.
DC Refrigerator
Supplies 12-volt electrical current directly to the refrigerator when 110-volt current is not being
used.
Fresh Water System
Supplies 12-volt electrical current directly to the fresh water pump pressure switch located on the
pump. The pressure switch automatically controls the water pump when the system is activated
and properly primed.
Macerator- Head
Supplies electrical current to the switch, that controls the macerator overboard discharge pump for
the holding tank. This breaker should be in the “OFF” position except when pumping out the
holding tank.
Helm Main
Supples 12-volt electrical current to the breakers and switches in the helm switch panel.
Cabin Lights
Supplies 12-volt electrical current to the cabin light switches.
Carbon Monoxide Detector
Supplies 12-volt electrical current the carbon monoxide detector in the cabin. This is a "push to
reset" breaker that is normally on all the time unless tripped by an overload when activated by the
house battery switch on the TABS unit. It should be checked, and the power indicator on the carbon
monoxide detector should be lit whenever someone is occupying the cabin. If the breaker has
tripped, it indicates that there is a problem with the carbon monoxide detector, the breaker, or the
wiring from the breaker panel to the detector. Always determine the cause of the problem and
correct it before resetting the breaker.
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CARBON MONOXIDE IS A LETHAL, TOXIC GAS THAT IS COLORLESS AND ODORLESS.
IT IS A DANGEROUS GAS THAT WILL CAUSE DEATH IN CERTAIN LEVELS.
Shower Sump
Supplies 12-volt electrical current directly to the cabin drain float switch which automatically
controls the cabin drain and shower sump pumps. This is a "push to reset" breaker that is normally
on all the time unless tripped by an overload. Make sure this breaker is on before using the cabin
sinks.
Accessory
Reserved for additional 12-volt equipment or the windlass breaker.
Accessory
Reserved for additional 12-volt equipment.
Accessory
Reserved for additional 12-volt equipment.
Additional Breakers and Switches
Windlass
The windlass breaker is located on the TABS unit below the companionway steps. Push the button
on the breaker in to activate the windlass control switch and pull it out to return the breaker to “OFF”
whenever the windlass is not in use. Turning off this breaker when the windlass is not in use will
reduce the possibility of accidentally activating the windlass.
Forward Bilge
The forward bilge pump breaker is located on the TABS unit and provides protection for the
automatic float switch on the forward bilge pump. Another breaker in the helm provides circuit
protection for the manual switch.
Aft Bilge
The aft bilge pump breaker is located on the TABS unit and provides protection for the automatic
float switch on the aft bilge pump. Another breaker in the helm provides circuit protection for the
manual switch.
DC Power
The DC power breaker is located on the TABS unit and provides protection for all DC power to
the Cabin DC breaker panel.
Engine Circuit Breakers
There are circuit breakers located on each engine that provide protection for the ignition systems,
electric fuel pump, charging system and other accessories unique to the engines installed in your
boat. Please refer to the engine owner's manual for information on the circuit breakers installed on
your engines.
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AB Switch (Optional)
Used to switch the TV between the antenna and the dockside cable, whenever the optional TV and
TV antenna are installed. It is mounted near the TABS unit below the companionway step.
4.3 110-Volt System
The 110-volt AC system is fed by the shore power outlet or by the optional generator. It is wired
totally separate from the 12-volt DC system and is equipped with an on-board galvanic isolation
system. All 110-volt current is distributed to the 110-volt accessories through individual circuit
breakers located in the 110-volt panel. The main breaker in the panel protects the system from an
overload and the reverse polarity light indicates any problems due to an improper shore power
supply. All AC outlets in the cabin are protected by ground fault interrupts to protect against
electrical shock. A cord set is provided to supply power from the shore power outlet to the boat’s
110-volt AC system.
TO REDUCE THE RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK IN WET WEATHER, AVOID MAKING
CONTACT WITH THE SHORE CABLE OR MAKING A CONNECTION TO A LIVE SHORE
OUTLET. NEVER SPRAY WATER ON ELECTRICAL CABLES WHILE WASHING DOWN
DECKS.
TO REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF AN ELECTRICAL SHOCK, IT IS IMPORTANT THAT
THE 110-VOLT AC GROUND SYSTEM IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY AND THAT A PROPER
CONNECTION EXISTS BETWEEN THE SHORE POWER CORD, THE SHORE POWER INLET, THE BOAT BONDING SYSTEM AND THE OUTLET GROUND CIRCUITS. IF THERE
IS ANY DOUBT ABOUT THE INTEGRITY OF THE GROUND CIRCUIT, A QUALIFIED MARINE ELECTRICIAN SHOULD BE CONTACTED IMMEDIATELY AND THE 110-VOLT AC
SHOULD BE DISCONNECTED UNTIL THE NECESSARY REPAIRS ARE COMPLETED.
Recommended procedure for making a shore connection
Turn the AC main breaker to the “OFF” position. If the dock side
outlet includes a disconnect switch, turn it to the “OFF” position
also.
To avoid strain on the cable make sure it has more slack than the
mooring lines. Dress the cable so that it cannot be damaged by
chafing between the boat and the dock. Make sure the cable does
not come in contact with the water. Then connect the cable in the
boat plug inlet and the dockside outlet, making sure the connection
plug includes a three-prong plug with a ground wire. Tighten the
lock rings on both the shore and the boat connector plugs.
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Shore Power Inlet
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Turn the dock side disconnect switch or circuit breaker to the “ON” position and check for proper
polarity. If reverse polarity has been achieved, the red polarity indicator in the 110-volt panel will
light. If this should happen, make sure the main breaker on the panel is in the “OFF” position and
turn the dock power switch or breaker off. A special relay attached to the main breaker should
automatically turn the main breaker off whenever reverse polarity is achieved. Notify a qualified
electrician to check the wiring at the dock outlet. If the red polarity light does not illuminate when
power is supplied to the panel, the polarity is correct and the AC main switch can be moved to the
“ON” position.
DO NOT OPERATE THE AC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM FROM SHORE POWER WITH REVERSE
POLARITY. REVERSE POLARITY WILL DAMAGE THE SYSTEM AND EXPOSE PASSENGERS TO ELECTROCUTION HAZARDS. THIS CONDITION COULD ALSO CAUSE A FIRE
IN THE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CORRECT THE WIRING YOURSELF. ELECTRIC SHOCK CAN
CAUSE SEVERE INJURY OR EVEN DEATH. ALWAYS HAVE A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN
CHECK WIRING.
KEEP CHILDREN AWAY FROM ANY ELECTRICAL CABLES OR EQUIPMENT AND ALWAYS USE GROUNDED APPLIANCES ON BOARD YOUR BOAT.
UNDETECTED FAULTS IN THE AC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM COULD CAUSE THE WATER
AROUND THE BOAT TO BECOME ENERGIZED. THIS COULD CAUSE A SEVERE SHOCK
OR EVEN DEATH TO SOMEONE IN THE WATER NEAR THE BOAT. NEVER SWIM OR
ALLOW SWIMMING AROUND THE BOAT WHEN THE 110-VOLT AC SYSTEM IS ACTIVATED BY THE GENERATOR OR THE SHORE POWER CONNECTION.
Disconnecting procedure for shore power connection
Turn the main breaker on the 110-volt AC panel and the disconnect switch on the dock side outlet
to the “OFF” position.
Disconnect the cable from the dock side outlet and replace the outlet caps. Disconnect the cable
from the boat and close the inlet cap. Store cable.
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110-Volt AC Accessory Breaker Panel
The AC panel is located in the cabin.
The following is a description of the
AC panel equipment and the breakers that protect the accessories:
AC Amp Meter
Indicates the total amperage or current being drawn through the 110volt panel. It is the total current level
of all of the 110-volt equipment in
operation at the time.
AC Breaker Panel
AC Volt Meter
Indicates the voltage supplied to the panel.
AC Main Breaker
Protects the general distribution network. This breaker is very sensitive. The resulting power surge
that occurs when connecting the dock side cord may cause the main breaker to trip. To avoid this
surge, always turn the main breaker to the “OFF” position before plugging or unplugging
the shore power cord. The AC panel also is equipped with a relay that will cause the main breaker
to trip when reversed polarity current is detected.
Reversed Polarity Light
The red light indicates reverse polarity current supplied to the panel. This situation will cause the
red light to remain lit. Additionally, a special relay attached to the main breaker will automatically
turn the main breaker off whenever reverse polarity is achieved. If reverse polarity is achieved,
immediately turn off all cabin 110-volt breakers and dockside outlet breakers. Disconnect the power cable from the dockside outlet and notify a qualified electrician to check the
dockside wiring.
Microwave
Supplies 110-volt current directly to the microwave oven. See the microwave manual for more
information.
Refrigerator
Supplies 110-volt electrical current directly to the optional refrigerator when 110-volt power is
available and chosen over the 12-volt power supply. See the refrigerator manual for more
information.
Ice Maker
Supplies 110-volt electrical current directly to the optional ice maker when 110-volt power is
available. See the ice maker manual for more information.
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Stove
Supplies electrical current directly to the galley stove.
Battery Charger
Supplies electrical current directly to the automatic battery charger. The battery charger automatically charges and maintains the 12-volt batteries simultaneously when activated. See the battery
charger manual for more information.
Outlets
Supply electrical current to the cabin ground fault interrupter (GFI) electrical outlets.
Note:
All AC electrical outlets are provided with ground fault interrupts to protect
against electric shock. These outlets should be tested periodically to insure proper
operation by pressing the test/reset buttons in the center of face plate. GFI outlets
do not protect against short circuits and overloads. This is done by the outlet
breakers on the AC panel.
GFI OUTLETS DO NOT PROVIDE 100% PROTECTION FROM ELECTRIC SHOCK. EVEN
THOUGH GROUND FAULT INTERRUPTERS PROVIDE PROTECTION BY REDUCING EXPOSURE TIME FROM LINE TO GROUND SHOCK HAZARDS, IT IS STILL POSSIBLE TO RECEIVE AN ELECTRIC SHOCK FROM DEFECTIVE APPLIANCES OR POWER TOOLS AND
MISUSED ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT.
Air Conditioner
Supplies electrical current to the air conditioning control panel and the air conditioner raw water
pump when this option is installed. Otherwise it is reserved for additional 110-volt equipment.
Note:
This breaker will trip if sea water is not being supplied to the air conditioning unit.
If this breaker trips, reset and check for water flow out of the air conditioning thru
hull. Refer to the air conditioner owner’s manual for additional information.
Water Heater
Supplies electrical current directly to the water heater circuit. The water temperature is automatically controlled by a thermostat in the water heater control panel. Before operation, you must have
water in the water heater (see the water heater manual for more information).
Additional AC Breaker Panels
Shore Power Inlet
Located in the cockpit below the shore power inlet plug. This breaker protects the AC system
between the shore power inlet plug and the main AC panel.
AC Power Selector Switch
The AC breaker panel will be equipped with this switch if the optional AC generator has been
installed in your boat. Move the selector switch to the “SHORE” position when connected to dock
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side power. Move the selector switch to the “OFF” position when disconnecting the dock side
power or when no 110-volt AC power is being supplied. Move the selector switch to the
“GENERATOR” position when the generator is being operated.
Generator Operation Panel
These switches control the starting, running, and stopping of the optional generator. The
procedures may vary depending on the model and type of generator installed in your boat. An
owner operator’s manual for the generator has been supplied with this manual. Please refer to it
for details on the generator operation.
Note:
Diesel generators consume DC electrical current and do not charge the battery
when they are running. Gasoline generators charge the battery just enough to
compensate for the DC electrical current the engine requires to operate. Therefore,
it is important to activate the battery charger to maintain the house battery
whenever the generator is running.
GENERATOR ENGINES PRODUCE CARBON MONOXIDE WHICH IS A LETHAL, TOXIC GAS
THAT IS COLORLESS AND ODORLESS. IT IS A DANGEROUS GAS THAT WILL CAUSE
DEATH IN CERTAIN LEVELS. ONLY OPERATE THE GENERATOR IN WELL VENTILATED
AREAS AND NEVER OPERATE THE GENERATOR WHILE YOU ARE SLEEPING.
4.4 Electrical System Maintenance
12-Volt DC Electrical System Maintenance
At least once a year, spray all exposed electrical components behind the helm and in the plugs, with
a protector. Exterior light fixture bulbs should be removed and the metal contact areas coated with
a non-water soluble lubricant like petroleum jelly or silicone grease. The sockets should be sprayed
with a protector. Care must be taken not to get any oil or petroleum jelly on the glass portion of
the bulbs as this will cause the bulb to overheat and burn out.
WHEN REPLACING LIGHT BULBS IN MARINE LIGHT FIXTURES, ALWAYS USE A BULB
WITH THE SAME RATING AS THE ORIGINAL. USING A DIFFERENT BULB COULD CAUSE
THE FIXTURE TO OVERHEAT AND MELT OR SHORT CIRCUIT.
Check all below deck wiring to be sure it is properly supported, that the insulation is sound, and
that there are no loose or corroded terminals. Corroded terminals should be thoroughly cleaned
with sandpaper, or replaced, tightened securely and sprayed with a metal and electrical protector.
Inspect all engine wiring.
Check the electrolyte level in the batteries regularly and add distilled water as necessary. If the
batteries are frequently charged by the automatic battery charger, the electrolyte level will have to
be checked more often. The correct fluid level in the cells is usually approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch
above the plates. If fluid is needed, fill to the proper level with distilled water. Do not over fill!
Please note that some batteries are sealed and cannot be filled.
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Keep the battery tops clean and dry. Dirt and water can conduct electricity from one post to the
other causing the battery to discharge.
The battery posts should be kept free of corrosion. Remove the cables and clean the posts and cable
clamps with a battery post cleaner or sandpaper as required. Coating the battery posts and cable
clamps with petroleum jelly or silicone grease will protect them and reduce corrosion. Battery
cables, both hot and ground, must be replaced when they show signs of corrosion or fraying.
Deteriorated cables cause a considerable voltage loss when high currents are drawn, as for starting
the engine.
NEVER USE AN OPEN FLAME IN THE BATTERY STORAGE AREA. AVOID STRIKING
SPARKS NEAR THE BATTERY. A BATTERY CAN EXPLODE IF A FLAME OR SPARK IGNITES THE HYDROGEN GAS THE BATTERY EMITS WHILE BEING CHARGED.
110-Volt AC Electrical System Maintenance
Periodically inspect all wiring for nicks, chafing, brittleness, improper support, etc. Examine the
shore power cord closely for cracks in the insulation and corrosion in electrical connectors.
Spraying receptacles and electrical connections with an electrical contact cleaner or a metal and
electrical protector will reduce corrosion and improve electrical continuity.
Inspect all wiring for proper support, sound insulation, and tight terminals, paying particular
attention to portable appliance cords and plugs.
The entire 110-volt circuitry, especially the shore power cord, should be seasonally tested for
proper continuity by an experienced electrician. This will detect any shorts, open wires, or ground
faults. Ground fault interrupts should be tested periodically to insure proper operation by pressing
the test/reset buttons in the center of face plate. The polarity indicator system also should be
inspected for proper operation.
The engine maintenance required on the generator is similar in many ways to the main engines. The
most important factors to the generator's longevity are proper ventilation, maintenance of the fuel
system, ignition system, cooling system, lubrication system and the AC alternator.
Maintenance schedules and procedures are outlined in your generator owner’s manual. They
should be followed exactly.
CORROSION ALLOWED TO BUILD ON THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS CAN CAUSE A
POOR CONNECTION RESULTING IN SHORTS, GROUND FAULTS OR POOR GROUND CONNECTIONS. ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS SHOULD CHECKED AT LEAST ANNUALLY AND
CLEANED AS REQUIRED. DO NOT ALLOW CORROSION TO BUILD ON CONNECTIONS.
THE AC AND DC ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS ALWAYS SHOULD BE DISCONNECTED FROM
THE POWER SOURCE BEFORE INSPECTING OR SERVICING THE SYSTEM. NEVER SERVICE ANY COMPONENT OF AN ELECTRICAL SYSTEM WHILE IT IS ENERGIZED.
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Chapter 5:
FRESH WATER SYSTEM
Fresh Water System
5.1 General
The fresh water system consists of a potable water tank, distribution lines and a distribution pump.
The pump is equipped with an automatic pressure switch and is located on the rear engine
compartment bulkhead. The tank is filled through a labeled deck plate located on the gunnel.
DO NOT FILL SYSTEM WITH ANYTHING OTHER THAN WATER. SHOULD THE SYSTEM
BECOME CONTAMINATED WITH FUEL OR OTHER TOXIC FLUIDS, COMPONENT REPLACEMENT MAY BE NECESSARY.
DO NOT CONFUSE FUEL FILL DECK PLATES WITH THE WATER OR WASTE FILL DECK
PLATES. THESE PLATES ALSO ARE LABELED ACCORDINGLY. IF GASOLINE OR DIESEL FUEL IS ACCIDENTALLY PUMPED INTO THE WATER OR WASTE TANK, DO NOT
ATTEMPT TO PUMP IT OUT YOURSELF. WATER AND WASTE PUMPS ARE NOT DESIGNED TO PUMP FUEL AND A FIRE OR EXPLOSION COULD RESULT. CONTACT YOUR
DEALER OR THE PURSUIT CUSTOMER RELATIONS DEPARTMENT FOR ASSISTANCE IN
HAVING THE FUEL PROFESSIONALLY REMOVED AND COMPONENTS OF THE FRESH
WATER SYSTEM REPLACED AS NECESSARY.
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5.2 Fresh Water System Operation
Fill the water supply tank slowly through the labeled deck plate. After filling
the water tank, partially open all faucets. The Fresh Water System breaker
on the cabin DC panel should be on. Allow the pump to run until all of the
air is purged from the system and a steady stream of water is flowing from
each outlet. Next, turn off the faucets one by one. As the pressure builds, the
pump will automatically shut off.
When properly primed and activated the water system will operate much like
the water system in a home. An automatic pressure sensor keeps the system
pressurized. If the system has been recently filled or has not been used for
an extended period, air bubbles may accumulate at the pump and the system
may have to be reprimed.
Fresh Water Pump
Whenever the boat is left unattended, the water pressure breaker should be placed in the “OFF”
position.
DO NOT ALLOW THE FRESH WATER PUMP TO RUN DRY. THE FRESH WATER PUMP
WORKS ON DEMAND AND WILL NOT SHUT OFF AUTOMATICALLY WHEN THE TANK
IS EMPTY. THIS CAN RESULT IN DAMAGE TO THE PUMP. ALWAYS TURN THE WATER PRESSURE BREAKER OFF WHEN THE FRESH WATER SYSTEM IS NOT IN USE.
5.3 Water heater
The water heater is located in the engine compartment. All heaters have a 110-volt element that
is thermostatically controlled at the heater and activated by a circuit breaker located in the 110-volt
panel. The water heater is also equipped with a heat exchanger that is plumbed to the fresh water
cooling system on one of the engines. The heat exchanger will heat the water in the hot water tank
whenever that engine is operating.
For highest efficiency, the engine heat exchanger is of the single wall type. If it fails, engine coolant
could enter the boat's water supply. If the coolant in the engine is toxic and someone drinks the
water, serious injury or death could result.
THE FRESHWATER SUPPLY COULD BECOME CONTAMINATED WITH ENGINE COOLANT
IF THE HEAT EXCHANGER IN THE WATER HEATER FAILS. MOST ENGINE COOLANT
IS TOXIC AND CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH IF IT CONTAMINATES THE
FRESHWATER SUPPLY AND SOMEONE DRINKS THE WATER. NEVER DRINK THE WATER FROM THE FRESHWATER SYSTEM FAUCETS WHEN THE ENGINE HEAT EXCHANER
IS ACTIVATED.
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A high pressure relief valve protects the system from excessive pressure. Always make sure all air
is purged from the water heater and lines before activating the water heater breaker. Refer to the
water heater owner’s manual for additional information.
DO NOT SUPPLY CURRENT TO AN EMPTY WATER HEATER. DAMAGE TO THE HEATER
WILL RESULT. THE SYSTEM MUST BE FILLED AND PRIMED BEFORE USING THE WATER HEATER.
5.4 Shore Water Connection (Optional)
The shore water connection allows the direct connection of the water system to a shore side water
supply. This provides the system with a constant supply of fresh water and minimizes the pressure
pump operation. A female inlet fitting is mounted in the cockpit. A pressure reducer is installed
in the system along with two check valves. One check valve keeps water from running out of the
shore water inlet fitting when the pressure pump operates. The second provides protection for the
pressure pump when the shore water is connected.
To use shore water, connect a hose from the shore water faucet to the shore water fitting on the boat.
Next, turn on the shore water. The pressure pump will not run and the water in the boat’s water
tank will not be used.
Note: The water tank will not be filled by connecting to shore water.
DO NOT MODIFY OR CHANGE THE SHORE WATER INLET CONNECTOR WITH ANOTHER
TYPE WITHOUT CONSULTING PURSUIT CUSTOMER RELATIONS OR YOUR DEALER. THE
USE OF THE WRONG TYPE OF INLET CONNECTOR CAN DAMAGE THE FRESH WATER
SYSTEM.
5.5 Shower Operation
The head sink faucet is also the shower spray head. To use as a shower, make sure the “Fresh Water
System” breaker in the DC breaker panel is on, then lift the spray head off the sink or out of the
locker and turn the water on. Adjust the hot and cold water faucet until the desired temperature is
obtained. Some minor variations in the water temperature may occur as the pressure pump cycles.
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Shower water is drained from the head compartment by a sump pump system connected to the
shower drain. An automatic float switch in the shower sump controls the pump. The pump is
protected by the shower sump pump circuit breaker in the panel. After showering, let the cold water
flow for a period of time to flush the drainage system of soap residue.
The shower sump system is located in the bilge below the cabin steps. It is essential that the shower
drain strainer is cleaned regularly and the sump is inspected periodically for accumulated debris that
needs to be removed.
5.6 Fresh Water System Maintenance
Information supplied with water system components, by the equipment manufacturers, is included
with this manual. Refer to this information for additional operation and service data.
The following items should be done routinely to maintain your fresh water system:
•
Remove the filter screens from the faucet spouts and eliminate any accumulation of debris. A
build up of debris can cause the pump to cycle excessively.
•
Periodically remove the lid on the shower sump assembly located under the rear berth. Clean
debris from the sump and flush with clean water.
•
Periodically spray the pumps and metal components with a metal protector.
•
The batteries must be properly maintained and charged. Operating the pressure pump from a
battery with a low charge could lead to pump failure.
•
Add a commercially available potable water conditioner to the water tank to keep it fresh.
•
Periodically, remove the water tank vent and clean corrosion and salt buildup from the vent
screens. The screens will prevent insects and other foreign matter from contaminating the water
system. The vent should be replaced if the vent or screens are damaged or badly corroded.
Vent screens that are clogged will prevent the water tank from venting properly and make filling
the tank difficult.
Be sure the screens are secure and that the vent hose is properly routed and attached when the
vent is reinstalled or replaced. The vent hose must be looped above the vent, secured to the
hull near the vent and securely attached to the vent hose fitting with a hose clamp.
THE FRESH WATER SYSTEM MUST BE PROPERLY WINTERIZED PRIOR TO WINTER
LAY-UP. SEE SECTION ON WINTERIZING.
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3000 EXPRESS
THE WATER PRESSURE BREAKER SHOULD BE PLACED IN THE “OFF” POSITION WHENEVER LEAVING THE BOAT UNATTENDED OR WHEN THE FRESH WATER SYSTEM IS
NOT IN USE.
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3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 6:
RAW WATER SYSTEM
Raw Water System
6.1 General
In the raw or sea water systems, all water pumps are supplied by hoses connected to ball valves and
thru hull fittings located in the bilge compartment. Always make sure the ball valves are open before
attempting to operate any component of the raw water system. 12-volt pumps supply sea water to
most of the various accessories.
The optional air conditioner uses a 110-volt AC sea water supply pump. This is the only 110-volt
AC pump in the system and it is automatically activated when the air-conditioning or heating system
is in use.
Priming the System
Make sure the ball valves are open. Open the hose connector for the raw water washdown and
activate the pressure pump by turning the washdown pump switch to the “ON” position. Run the
pump until all of the air is purged from the system and then turn the switch “OFF.” Turn the livewell
switch to the “ON” position. Run the pump until all of the air is purged from the system and then
turn the switch to the “OFF” position. Closing the thru hull ball valves before the boat is hauled
from the water will help to eliminate air locks in raw water systems.
Note:
It may be necessary to reprime the raw water system if the system is not used for
an extended period and at the time of launching.
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6.2 High Pressure Washdown
A saltwater high pressure pump, controlled by a pressure sensor, supplies the
raw water hose connector located in the cockpit. The pump is activated by
the washdown switch located under the gunwale on the side of the cockpit.
This switch should be turned to the “ON” position just before using the
washdown and be turned to the “OFF” position when the washdown is not
in use.
When activated, the pressure switch will automatically control the pump. As
the pressure builds in the washdown hose, the pump will shut off. When the
washdown hose is in use and the pressure drops, the pump will turn on.
Raw Water Pump
The raw water washdown system is equipped with a sea strainer on the intake
side of the pump located in the bilge behind the stern access hatch. This
should be checked frequently and cleaned as necessary.
The Washdown Pump Connector
The washdown pump hose connector is located in the cockpit and
uses a standard garden hose connection.
Washdown Hose
Connector
ALWAYS TURN THE RAW WATER PUMP SWITCH TO THE “OFF” POSITION WHEN
LEAVING THE BOAT UNATTENDED.
DO NOT RUN THE HIGH PRESSURE PUMP DRY FOR EXTENDED PERIODS AS DAMAGE
TO THE PUMP WILL RESULT.
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6.3 Livewell
Sea water is provided to the livewell by a 12-volt
diaphragm pump. This pump is designed to carry a
constant flow of water to the livewell. The pump is
activated by the baitwell switch in the 12-volt panel or
a separate switch in the cockpit. An overflow built into
the livewell automatically controls the water level in the
livewell. Always turn the pump off at the switch panel
when the livewell is not in use.
To fill the livewell, insert the plug into the drain fitting
at the bottom of the livewell. Make sure the valve at the
intake thru hull fitting is open and activate the baitwell
switch. When the water level reaches the overflow, it
will begin to circulate.
To drain the livewell, turn off the livewell pump and pull
out the plug in the drain fitting at the bottom of the
livewell. When the livewell has completely drained, use
the washdown hose to flush the livewell and drain of
debris.
Livewell
The livewell supply thru hull valve should be closed whenever the livewell is not in use. This will
prevent water from entering the livewell while the boat is cruising.
Note:
Do not use the livewell as a dry storage area when it is not in use. Sea water could
accidently be delivered to the livewell from the thru hull fitting and damage
equipment stored there.
DO NOT RUN THE LIVEWELL PUMP DRY FOR EXTENDED PERIODS AS DAMAGE TO
THE PUMP WILL RESULT.
6.4 Air Conditioning
The air conditioner is self-contained and sea water cooled. A 110-volt centrifugal raw water pump
supplies sea water that cools the condensing unit as it circulates through the system and is
discharged overboard. The pump is located below the water line and is activated whenever 110volt current is available and the air conditioning system is operating.
Sea water is supplied to the pump from a thru hull fitting located in the hull near the pump. A sea
strainer between the pump and thru hull fitting protects the system from contaminants that could
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6-3
damage the pump or the air conditioning system. Make sure the sea water pump receives adequate
sea water by periodically cleaning the sea strainer basket.
Please refer to the air conditioner owner's manual for more information on the operation and
maintenance of the air conditioner.
6.5 Raw Water System Maintenance
The following items should be done routinely to help maintain your raw water system:
•
Check hoses, particularly the sea water supply lines, for signs of deterioration.
•
Remove and clean the sea water strainers for the livewell, air conditioner and washdown pump,
as needed.
•
Spray pumps and thru hull valves with a protective oil periodically.
•
The fishboxes and livewells should be drained and cleaned after each use.
•
Operate all thru hull valves at least once a month to keep them operating properly.
SHOULD A HOSE RUPTURE, TURN THE PUMP OFF IMMEDIATELY. ALWAYS CLOSE
THE THRU HULL VALVE WHEN PERFORMING MAINTENANCE ON A SEA WATER PUMP.
THE BATTERIES MUST BE PROPERLY CHARGED. OPERATING ANY PUMPS FROM A
BATTERY WITH A LOW CHARGE MAY LEAD TO A PUMP FAILURE.
THE RAW WATER SYSTEM MUST BE PROPERLY WINTERIZED PRIOR TO WINTER LAYUP. SEE SECTION ON WINTERIZING.
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3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 7:
DRAINAGE SYSTEMS
Drainage System
7.1 General
All water is drained by gravity to overboard thru hull fittings located in the hull sides above the
waterline. The drain thru hull fittings are equipped with PVC ball valves that are always open under
normal operating conditions. Most drains are connected to the thru hull valves. In the event of an
emergency, the valves can be closed to prevent sea water from entering the boat through the
drainage system. It is important to check and operate the drain valves at least annually to make sure
they are in good condition and operating properly. You also should check the drain system
frequently to insure it is free flowing and that the hoses on the thru hull fittings are secure and not
leaking. Please review the drainage schematic to become familiar with the location of the thru hull
drain valves.
SITUATIONS REQUIRING ONE OR MORE DRAIN VALVES TO BE CLOSED CAN BE POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS TO THE BOAT AND YOUR CREW. IF THIS OCCURS, DISTRIBUTE PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES TO THE CREW AND TAKE ALL NECESSARY
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS, INCLUDING NOTIFYING THE COAST GUARD, UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FOUND AND CORRECTED.
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7-1
7.2 Cockpit Drains
Your Pursuit has two scupper drains located in the rear of the cockpit. Water is channeled away
from all hatches by a gutter or drain rail system. The water then drains overboard through the
scupper drain system.
7.3 Hardtop and Radar Arch Drains
There is a hole drilled in one of the leg bases to prevent water from being trapped within the leg
and provide a wire chase for accessories. A small hole is drilled in the tubing at the base of the other
legs, which are not drilled for a wire chase, that allows water to drain.
ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE LEG DRAIN HOLES ARE CLEAR WHEN THE BOAT IS LAID
UP FOR THE WINTER. WATER TRAPPED INSIDE THE LEGS COULD FREEZE AND
CAUSE THE LEGS TO SPLIT.
7.4 Bilge Drainage
The bilge pumps are activated both manually, by a
switch in the helm station, and automatically, by a float
switch built into the pumps. The automatic float switches
are protected by circuit breakers located on the TABS
unit and remain activated when the battery switches are
in the “OFF” position and the batteries are connected.
All bilge pumps pump water out of thru hulls located
above the waterline in the hull. The rear bilge pump and
automatic switch are located near the transom, below the
stern fishbox, and the forward pump and automatic
switch are located in the engine room.
Note:
Bilge Pump
See Electrical Systems for additional information on bilge pump operation.
When the boat is out of the water, the bilge can be drained by a thru hull drain located in the hull
near the transom. The plug should be removed whenever the boat is hauled out of the water and
installed just prior to launching. It is important to check the drain plug regularly to make sure it is
tight.
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3000 EXPRESS
A LOOSE DRAIN PLUG WILL ALLOW SEA WATER TO ENTER THE BILGE AND COULD
CAUSE THE BOAT TO SINK. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO CHECK THE DRAIN PLUG
FREQUENTLY TO INSURE IT IS PROPERLY TIGHTENED.
IMPORTANT:
Any oil spilled in the bilge must be thoroughly removed and properly
disposed of before operating the bilge pump. The discharge of oil from
the bilge is illegal and subject to a fine.
THE FEDERAL WATER POLLUTION CONTROL ACT PROHIBITS THE DISCHARGE
OF OIL OR OILY WASTE INTO OR UPON THE NAVIGABLE WATERS OF THE UNITED
STATES OR THE WATERS OF THE CONTIGUOUS ZONE IF SUCH DISCHARGE CAUSES A FILM OR SHEEN UPON, OR A DISCOLORATION OF THE SURFACE OF THE
WATER, OR CAUSES A SLUDGE OR EMULSION BENEATH THE SURFACE OF THE
WATER. VIOLATORS ARE SUBJECT TO A PENALTY OF $10,000.
CERTAIN BULKHEAD AREAS ARE SEALED IN ACCORDANCE WITH U.S. COAST
GUARD REGULATIONS THAT WERE IN EFFECT AT THE DATE OF MANUFACTURE
OF THE BOAT. ANY MODIFICATIONS TO THESE BULKHEADS SHOULD BE IN ACCORDANCE WITH THE U.S. COAST GUARD REGULATIONS.
7.5 Fishbox and Storage Compartment Drains
The storage box, located under the passenger seat, is drained by gravity. Water drains out of the
box to the cockpit drain system. The fishbox below the cockpit floor is drained overboard by a
macerator pump out system. The macerator is activated by a momentary switch located in a switch
panel near the transom door. The fishboxes should be flushed out and cleaned after each use.
Note:
The macerator discharge pump can only be run dry for a couple of seconds.
Allowing the macerator pump to run after the fishbox is empty will cause damage
to the pump.
7.6 Water System Drains
All exterior sinks and livewells, provided with fresh or raw water, drain by gravity to overboard
thru hulls located in the hull sides just above the waterline. The overflows in the livewell drain into
the overboard drains.
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7-3
7.7 Shower and Cabin Sink Drains
The shower and cabin sinks are drained from the
boat by a sump pump system connected to the
shower and sink drains. All 3000 Express models
are equipped with a separate sump pump for the
head and galley sink drains located in the cabinet
below the head compartment sink and another
sump pump for the shower located in the bilge
and accessed through a hatch under the cabin
steps.
Shower and Cabin Drain
Sump Pump
An automatic float switch in the sump controls the pump. The pump is protected by the shower
sump pump “Push to Reset” circuit breaker in the panel. After showering, let the cold water flow
for a period of time to flush the drainage system of soap residue. The sump has a removable hatch
to allow the system to be inspected and serviced. It is essential that the sump system be inspected
periodically and any accumulated debris removed.
7.8 Rope Locker Drains
The rope locker drains overboard through a special drain fitting located in the hull side at the bottom
of the rope locker. It is important to inspect the drain frequently to remove any accumulated debris.
7.9 Drainage System Maintenance
It is essential that the following items be done periodically to maintain proper drainage of your boat:
•
Clean the cockpit drain rails with a hose to remove debris that can block water drainage.
•
Clean the hardtop and radar arch leg drain holes. This is especially important just before winter
lay-up.
•
Clean the bilge pump strainers of debris and check the bilge for foreign material that can cause
the automatic switch to malfunction.
•
Frequently test the automatic bilge pump switch for proper operation. This is accomplished by
inserting a stiff wire or small rod through one of the slots in the float chamber of the pump and
lifting the float switch until the pump is activated. You can also use a garden hose to flood the
bilge until the water level is high enough to activate the pump.
•
Flush all gravity drains with freshwater to keep them clean and free flowing.
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3000 EXPRESS
•
Clean and inspect the shower and cabin sink drain sump system. Remove accumulated debris
and flush with freshwater. Frequently test the automatic pump switches for proper operation.
•
Clean and flush the fishbox and cooler storage boxes with soap or a bilge cleaner and freshwater
after each use to keep them clean and fresh.
•
Operate the thru hull valves once a month and service as required.
Note:
All drains and pumps must be properly winterized before winter lay-up.
NEVER USE HARSH CHEMICAL DRAIN CLEANERS IN MARINE DRAIN SYSTEMS.
PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE HOSES AND FITTINGS MAY RESULT.
TO KEEP THE CABIN FREE OF FUMES, VAPORS AND WATER, ALWAYS REPLACE AND
PROPERLY SECURE THE CABIN DRAIN PLUG IN THE CABIN SOLE AFTER DRAINING.
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Chapter 8:
VENTILATION SYSTEM
8.1 Cabin Ventilation
Ventilation to the cabin area is provided by three deck hatches and opening port windows.
Port Windows
The port windows are secured by cam action locks. The locks
should be adjusted so they are tight enough to seal the windows
in the closed position, but not so tight that they break the plastic.
The cam locks are adjusted by turning the two allen head bolts
located at the base of each cam lock.
Deck Hatches
The three deck hatches are supported in the open position by
an adjustable hatch adjuster. To close a hatch, loosen the
hatch adjuster and lower the hatch. Secure in the closed
position with the two cam levers on the inside of the hatch.
Opening Port Window
Opening Port Window
Forward Deck Hatch
Head Compartment
Ventilation to the head compartment is provided by an opening port window. The port window
is secured by cam action locks. The locks should be adjusted so they are tight enough to seal the
window in the closed position, but not so tight that they break the plastic.
8.2 Windshield Ventilation
The windshield is equipped with an opening vent panel on each side
of the windshield. To open the vent, release the locking T-handles and
open the vent to the desired position. Lock the vent in place by turning
the T-handles 1/4 turn. The friction of the T-handle in the guide will
hold the vent in that position.
Windshield Vent
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8-1
8.3 Carbon Monoxide and Proper Ventilation
FAILURE TO PROPERLY VENTILATE THE BOAT WHILE THE ENGINES ARE RUNNING
MAY PERMIT CARBON MONOXIDE TO ACCUMULATE WITHIN THE CABIN. CARBON
MONOXIDE IS A COLORLESS AND ODORLESS GAS THAT IS LETHAL WHEN INHALED.
CARE MUST BE TAKEN TO PROPERLY VENTILATE THE BOAT AND TO AVOID CARBON MONOXIDE FROM ACCUMULATING IN THE BOAT WHENEVER AN ENGINE IS RUNNING.
A by-product of combustion, carbon monoxide (CO) is invisible, tasteless, odorless, and is
produced by all engines, heating and cooking appliances. The most common sources of CO on
boats are gasoline engines, auxiliary generators and propane or butane stoves. These produce large
amounts of CO and should never be operated while sleeping. The hazard also may be created by
a boat nearby whose exhaust fumes are entering your boat. Boats also have a problem due to the
“station wagon effect” where engine exhaust fumes are captured in the vacuum or low pressure
area, usually the cockpit, bridge deck and cabin, that can be created by the forward speed of the
boat.
Boats underway should close all aft facing hatches and doors. The forward facing deck hatches
should be open whenever possible to help pressurize the living spaces of the boat. No sleeping
in the cabin should be permitted while underway. Proper ventilation should be maintained on the
bridge deck by opening windshield vents, as far as possible to help pressurize the cockpit area. The
canvas drop or aft curtain must be removed and the side curtains should be opened or removed to
increase air flow and maintain proper ventilation whenever the engines are running. Under no
circumstances should the engines be operating with side curtains closed and the aft or drop
curtain installed.
Extreme caution must be taken while at anchor or in a slip when an auxiliary power generator is
operating. Wind still nights can easily allow exhaust fumes, containing high concentrations of CO,
from the generator on your boat or from an adjacent boat's generator to enter the boat. The exhaust
fumes may enter your boat through open hatches or windows.
A carbon monoxide detector has been installed in your cabin as standard equipment. While a CO
detector enhances your protection from CO poisoning, it does not guarantee it will not occur. Do
not use the carbon monoxide detector as a replacement for ordinary precautions or periodic
inspections of equipment. Never rely on alarm systems to save your life, common sense is still
prudent and necessary. Remember, the operator of the boat carries the ultimate responsibility to
make sure the boat is properly ventilated and the passengers are not exposed to dangerous levels
of carbon monoxide. You should always be alert to the symptoms and early warning signs of
carbon monoxide poisoning. You also should read the book entitled “Sportfish, Cruisers, Yachts
- Owner's Manual” included with this manual, the “Carbon Monoxide Monitoring System” in the
“Safety Equipment” chapter of this manual, and the owner’s manual supplied by the CO detector
manufacturer for operation instructions and additional information regarding the hazards and
symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning.
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3000 EXPRESS
ACTUATION OF THE CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR INDICATES THE PRESENCE OF
CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) WHICH CAN BE FATAL. EVACUATE THE CABIN IMMEDIATELY. DO A HEAD COUNT TO CHECK THAT ALL PERSONS ARE ACCOUNTED FOR.
DO NOT REENTER THE CABIN UNTIL IT HAS BEEN AIRED OUT AND THE PROBLEM
FOUND AND CORRECTED.
8.4 Engine Compartment Ventilation
All Pursuit inboard boats are equipped with engine compartment ventilation. The ventilation
system is designed to meet or exceed the requirements of the United States Coast Guard in effect
at the time of manufacture.
Free Air System
A flow of air into the engine compartment is provided by two intake vents located on either side
of the hull. Two exhaust vents, located on each side of the deck below the windshield, provide a
flow of air out of the engine compartment. The exhaust vents have ducts that reach to the lower
part of the engine compartment. This provides adequate air movement while operating at or near
cruise speeds.
Forced Ventilation
The Pursuit 3000 Express is equipped with electric blowers that provide ventilation to the engine
compartment prior to start up and while operating below cruise speed. The blowers are activated
by a switch at the helm, and are located in the vent hoses, in the bilge, on each side of the engine
compartment . Refer to the Electrical Systems chapter for more information on blower operation.
GASOLINE VAPORS CAN EXPLODE. BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINES OR GENERATOR,
OPERATE THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT BLOWER FOR FIVE (5) MINUTES, OPEN THE
ENGINE ACCESS HATCH, INSPECT THE FUEL SYSTEM, AND CHECK THE ENGINES FOR
THE ODOR OF GASOLINE VAPORS. ALWAYS OPERATE THE BLOWER WHILE THE
ENGINES ARE AT IDLE. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THIS PROCEDURE BE
OVERLOOKED.
ALWAYS RUN THE BLOWER WHEN OPERATING A GASOLINE POWERED INBOARD BOAT
BELOW CRUISE SPEEDS TO ENSURE ADEQUATE VENTILATION OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
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8-3
8.5 Maintenance
•
Periodically lubricate all hinges and latch assemblies with a light oil.
•
Periodically clean and coat gasket materials with silicone to help keep them pliable.
•
The opening cabin deck hatches, port windows and the curved section in each front corner of
the windshield are made of acrylic plastic glass. Acrylic glass scratches easily. Never use a
dry cloth or glass cleaning solutions on acrylic glass . Use a soft cloth and mild soap and water
for routine cleaning. Solvents and products containing ammonia can permanently damage
acrylic glass. Please refer to the Routine Maintenance chapter for more information on the
proper maintenance for acrylic plastic glass.
•
Periodic inspection and cleaning of the engine compartment ventilation ducts is necessary to
ensure adequate air circulation. A buildup of leaves, twigs, or other debris can severely reduce
ventilation. It also is important to be sure that the bilge water level does not accumulate to a level
that could restrict the ventilation ducts.
•
The bilge blowers are permanently lubricated and require no maintenance. Blower operation
can and should be tested by placing a hand over the exhaust vents. Do not rely on the sound
of the blowers. A substantial amount of air should be exhausted by the blower. Frequently
check the intake vents for obstructions, preferably before each cruise.
•
Periodically return the carbon monoxide alarm to the manufacturer for testing and recalibration.
Please refer to the carbon monoxide alarm manual or contact the manufacturer for more
information on maintaining and calibrating the alarm.
Note:
8-4
Should blower noise become excessive, the source of the noise should be found
and corrected before operating the boat.
3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 9:
SAFETY EQUIPMENT
9.1 General
Your boat and inboard engines have been equipped with safety equipment designed to enhance the
safe operation of the boat and to meet U.S. Coast Guard safety standards. The Coast Guard or state,
county, and municipal law enforcement agencies require certain additional accessory safety
equipment on each boat. This equipment varies according to length and type of boat and type of
propulsion. The accessory equipment required by the Coast Guard is described in this chapter.
Some local laws require additional equipment. It is important to obtain “Federal Requirements And
Safety Tips for Recreational Boats,” published by the Coast Guard, and copies of state and local
laws, to make sure you have the required equipment for your boating area. You also should read
the book entitled “Sportfish, Cruisers, Yachts - Owner's Manual” included with this manual.
Your Pursuit could be equipped with engine alarms, an optional automatic fire extinguishing
system and cabin monitoring equipment. These systems are designed to increase your boating
safety by alerting you to potentially serious problems in the primary power systems, the engine
compartment, and the cabin. Alarm systems are not intended to lessen or replace good maintenance
and precruise procedures.
This chapter also describes safety related equipment that could be installed on your boat. This
equipment will vary depending on the type of engines and other options installed by you or your
dealer.
9.2 Engine Alarms
The Pursuit 3000 Express is equipped with engine alarms that monitor water temperature and oil
pressure. The alarms are equipped with a buzzer and/or a light located in the helm. The alarm will
sound if the water temperature reaches 205 degrees F. or the oil pressure drops below 6 P.S.I. The
diesel engine installations have fuel filters that are equipped with sensors that will activate the red
light at the helm if excessive water has accumulated in the filters and additional alarms to monitor
transmission pressure. Please refer to the engine owner's manual or contact your dealer for more
information on the engine alarm system installed in your boat.
If the alarms sound:
•
Immediately throttle the engines back to idle.
•
Shift the transmissions to neutral.
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•
Monitor the engine gauges to determine the cause of the problem.
•
If necessary, shut off the engines and investigate until the cause of the problem is found.
•
If the boat is equipped with water sensors in the fuel filters, be sure to check them for excessive
water.
9.3 Neutral Safety Switch
Every control system has a neutral safety switch incorporated into it. This device prohibits the
engines from being started while the shift lever is in any position other than the neutral position. If
the engines will not start, slight movement of the shift levers may be necessary to locate the neutral
position and disengage the safety cutout switch. Control or cable adjustments may be required to
correct this condition should it persist. See your Pursuit dealer for necessary control and cable
adjustments. Please refer to the Helm Control Systems chapter for more information on the neutral
safety switch.
9.4 Required Safety Equipment
Besides the equipment installed on your boat by Pursuit, certain other equipment is required by the
U.S. Coast Guard to help ensure passenger safety. Items like a sea anchor, working anchor, extra
dock lines, flare pistol, life vests, a line permanently secured to your ring buoy, etc., could at some
time save your passengers’ lives, or save your boat from damage. Refer to the “Federal
Requirements And Safety Tips For Recreational Boats” pamphlet for a more detailed description
of the required equipment. You also can contact the U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety Hotline, 800368-5647, for information on boat safety courses and brochures listing the Federal equipment
requirements. Also, check your local and state regulations.
The Coast Guard Auxiliary offers a “Courtesy Examination.” This inspection will help ensure that
your boat is equipped with all of the necessary safety equipment.
The following is a list of the accessory equipment required on your boat by the U.S. Coast Guard:
Personal Flotation Devices (PFDs)
PFDs must be Coast Guard approved, in good and serviceable condition, and of appropriate size
for the intended user. Wearable PFDs must be readily accessible, meaning you must be able to put
them on in a reasonable amount of time in an emergency. Though not required, the Coast Guard
emphasizes that PFDs should be worn at all times when the vessel is underway. Throwable devices
must be immediately available for use. All Pursuit boats must be equipped with at least one Type
I, II or III PFD for each person on board, plus one throwable device (Type IV).
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Visual Distress Signals
All Pursuit boats used on coastal waters, the Great Lakes, territorial seas, and those waters
connected directly to them, must be equipped with Coast Guard approved visual distress signals.
These signals are either Pyrotechnic or Non-Pyrotechnic devices.
Pyrotechnic visual distress signals:
Pyrotechnic visual distress signals must be Coast Guard approved, in serviceable condition, and
readily accessible. They are marked with a date showing the service life, which must not have
expired. A minimum of three are required. Some pyrotechnic signals meet both day and night use
requirements. They should be stored in a cool, dry location. They include:
•
Pyrotechnic red flares, hand held or aerial.
•
Pyrotechnic orange smoke, hand-held or floating.
•
Launchers for aerial red meteors or parachute flares.
PYROTECHNICS ARE UNIVERSALLY RECOGNIZED AS EXCELLENT DISTRESS SIGNALS.
HOWEVER, THERE IS POTENTIAL FOR INJURY AND PROPERTY DAMAGE IF NOT PROPERLY HANDLED. THESE DEVICES PRODUCE A VERY HOT FLAME AND THE RESIDUE
CAN CAUSE BURNS AND IGNITE FLAMMABLE MATERIAL. PISTOL LAUNCHED AND
HAND-HELD PARACHUTE FLARES AND METEORS HAVE MANY CHARACTERISTICS OF
A FIREARM AND MUST BE HANDLED WITH CAUTION. IN SOME STATES THEY ARE
CONSIDERED A FIREARM AND PROHIBITED FROM USE. ALWAYS BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL AND FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURER'S INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY WHEN USING PYROTECHNIC DISTRESS SIGNALS.
Non-Pyrotechnic Devices
Non-Pyrotechnic visual distress signals must be in serviceable condition, readily accessible, and
certified by the manufacturer as complying with U.S. Coast Guard requirements. They include:
•
Orange Distress Flag (Day use only)
The distress flag is a day signal only. It must be at least 3 x 3 feet with a black square and ball
on an orange background. It is most distinctive when attached and waved from a paddle or boat
hook.
•
Electric Distress Light (Night use only)
The electric distress light is accepted for night use only and must automatically flash the
international SOS distress signal. Under Inland Navigation Rules, a high intensity white light
flashing at regular intervals from 50-70 times per minute is considered a distress signal.
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Sound Signaling Devices
The navigation rules require sound signals to be made under certain circumstances. Recreational
vessels also are required to sound fog signals during periods of reduced visibility. Therefore, you
must have some means of making an efficient sound signal.
Navigation Lights
Recreational boats are required to display navigation lights between sunset and sunrise and other
periods of reduced visibility (fog, rain, haze, etc.) Navigation lights are intended to keep other
vessels informed of your presence and course. Your Pursuit is equipped with the navigation lights
required by the U.S. Coast Guard at the time of manufacture. It is up to you to make sure they are
operational and turned on when required.
Fire Extinguishers
At least one fire extinguisher is required on all Pursuit boats. Coast Guard
approved fire extinguishers are hand-portable, either B-I or B-II classification
and have a specific marine type mounting bracket. It is recommended the
extinguishers be mounted in a readily accessible position.
Fire extinguishers require regular inspections to insure that:
•
Seals & tamper indicators are not broken or missing.
•
Pressure gauges or indicators read in the operable range.
•
There is no obvious physical damage, corrosion, leakage or clogged
nozzles.
Fire Extinguisher
Refer to the “Federal Requirements And Safety Tips For Recreational Boats” pamphlet or contact
the U.S. Coast Guard Boating Safety Hotline, 1-800-368-5647, for information on the type and
size fire extinguisher required for your boat.
Please refer to the information provided by the fire extinguisher manufacturer for instructions on
the proper maintenance and use of your fire extinguisher.
INFORMATION FOR HALON OR AGENT FE-241 FIRE EXTINGUISHERS IS PROVIDED BY
THE MANUFACTURER. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU READ THE INFORMATION CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY UNDERSTAND THE SYSTEM, IN THEORY AND OPERATION,
BEFORE USING YOUR BOAT.
Bilge and Fuel Fires
Fuel compartment and bilge fires are very dangerous because of the presence of gasoline or diesel
fuel in the various components of the fuel system and the possibility for explosion. You must make
the decision to fight the fire or abandon the boat. If the fire cannot be extinguished quickly or it is
too intense to fight, abandoning the boat may be your only option. If you find yourself in this
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situation, make sure all passengers have a life preserver on and go over the side and swim well
upwind of the boat. This will keep you and your passengers well clear of any burning fuel that could
be released and spread on the water as the boat burns or in the event of an explosion. When clear
of the danger, check about and account for all those who were aboard with you. Give whatever
assistance you can to anyone in need or in the water without a buoyant device. Keep everyone
together in a group for morale and to aid rescue operations.
GASOLINE CAN EXPLODE. IN THE EVENT OF A FUEL COMPARTMENT OR BILGE FIRE,
YOU MUST MAKE THE DIFFICULT DECISION TO FIGHT THE FIRE OR ABANDON THE
BOAT. YOU MUST CONSIDER YOUR SAFETY, THE SAFETY OF YOUR PASSENGERS, THE
INTENSITY OF THE FIRE AND THE POSSIBILITY OF AN EXPLOSION IN YOUR DECISION.
9.5 Automatic Fire Extinguishing System
The Pursuit inboard engine compartment is equipped with an optional automatic fire extinguishing
system. The equipment has been chosen and located to provide sufficient volume and coverage
of the entire engine compartment area. While the system ensures excellent bilge fire protection, it
does not eliminate the U.S. Coast Guard requirement for hand held fire extinguishers.
Diesel powered boats have an engine cut out circuit that automatically shuts down the engines when
the system is activated. The red light on the fire extinguisher control panel will light and an alarm
will sound if this should occur. When sufficient time has elapsed for the fire to be extinguished and
a flashback is no longer possible, find and fix the problem, then the override switch on the control
panel can be moved to the “OVERRIDE” position and the engines can be restarted.
IF ACTIVATION SHOULD OCCUR, IMMEDIATELY SHUT DOWN ALL ENGINES. TURN
OFF ALL ELECTRICAL SYSTEMS, POWERED VENTILATION AND EXTINGUISH ALL
SMOKING MATERIALS. DO NOT OPEN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT HATCH IMMEDIATELY!! THIS FEEDS OXYGEN TO THE FIRE AND FLASH BACK COULD RESULT. ALLOW THE EXTINGUISHING AGENT TO SOAK THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT FOR AT
LEAST 15 MINUTES AND WAIT FOR HOT METALS OR FUELS TO COOL BEFORE CAUTIOUSLY INSPECTING FOR CAUSE OR DAMAGE. HAVE AN APPROVED PORTABLE FIRE
EXTINGUISHER AT HAND AND READY FOR USE. DO NOT BREATH FUMES OR VAPORS
CAUSED BY THE FIRE!!
DIESEL ENGINES WILL CONSUME EXTINGUISHING AGENT. IF THE SYSTEM DISCHARGES AND THE ENGINES DO NOT AUTOMATICALLY SHUT DOWN, THEY MUST BE
IMMEDIATELY SHUT DOWN MANUALLY. IF A DIESEL ENGINE IS ALLOWED TO RUN
IN THIS SITUATION, IT WILL CONSUME THE EXTINGUISHING AGENT AND FLASH BACK
COULD RESULT.
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IF THE AUTOMATIC FIRE EXTINGUISHING SYSTEM IS INSTALLED IN YOUR BOAT, THE
INFORMATION PROVIDED BY THE SYSTEM MANUFACTURER SHOULD BE INCLUDED.
IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU READ THE INFORMATION CAREFULLY AND COMPLETELY
UNDERSTAND THE SYSTEM IN THEORY AND OPERATION BEFORE USING YOUR BOAT.
9.6 Carbon Monoxide Monitoring System
CARBON MONOXIDE IS A LETHAL, TOXIC GAS THAT IS COLORLESS AND ODORLESS.
IT IS A DANGEROUS GAS THAT WILL CAUSE DEATH IN CERTAIN LEVELS.
The carbon monoxide (CO) detector is installed in the cabin as
standard equipment and warns the occupants of dangerous accumulations of carbon monoxide gas. If excess carbon monoxide fumes
are detected, the detector will sound an alarm indicating the presence
of the toxic gas.
Should a very high level of carbon monoxide exist, the alarm will
sound in a few minutes. However, if small quantities of CO are
present or high levels are short-lived, the alarm will accumulate the
information and determine when an alarm level has been reached.
The carbon monoxide detector is automatically activated whenever
the house battery switch in in the "ON" position. The power light on
the carbon monoxide dectector should be lit to indicate that the
carbon monoxide detector is activated. Always make sure the house
battery switch on the Totally Automatic Battery System is "ON"
and the power light on the carbon monoxide detector is lit whenever the cabin is occupied.
Carbon Monoxide Detector
A by-product of combustion, carbon monoxide (CO) is invisible, tasteless, odorless, and is
produced by all engines, heating and cooking appliances. The most common sources of CO on
boats are gasoline engines and auxiliary generators and propane or butane stoves. These produce
large amounts of CO and should never be operated while sleeping.
A slight buildup of carbon monoxide over several hours causes headache, nausea and other
symptoms that are similar to food poisoning, motion sickness or flu. High concentrations can be
fatal within minutes. Many cases of carbon monoxide poisoning indicate that while victims are
aware they are not well, they become so disoriented they are unable to save themselves by either
exiting the area or calling for help. Also, young children, elderly persons, and pets may be the first
affected.
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Drug or alcohol use increases the effect of CO exposure. Individuals with cardiac or respiratory
conditions are very susceptible to the dangers of carbon monoxide. CO poisoning is especially
dangerous during sleep when victims are unaware of any side effects. The following are symptoms
which may signal exposure to CO: (1) Headache (2) Tightness of chest or hyperventilation (3)
Flushed face (4) Nausea (5) Drowsiness (6) Fatigue or Weakness (7) Inattention or confusion
(8) Lack of normal coordination.
Persons who have been exposed to carbon monoxide should be moved into fresh air immediately.
Have the victim breath deeply and seek immediate medical attention. To learn more about CO
poisoning, contact your local health authorities.
Low levels of carbon monoxide over an extended period of time can be just as lethal as high doses
over a short period. Therefore, low levels of carbon monoxide can cause the alarm to sound before
the occupants of the boat notice any symptoms of carbon monoxide poisoning. CO detectors are
very reliable and rarely sound false alarms. If the alarm sounds, always assume the hazard is real
and move persons who have been exposed to carbon monoxide into fresh air immediately. Never
disable the CO detector because you think the alarm may be false. Always contact the detector
manufacturer or your local fire department for assistance in finding and correcting the situation.
Remember, carbon monoxide detectors do not guarantee that CO poisoning will not occur. Do not
use the CO detector as a replacement for ordinary precautions or periodic inspections of equipment.
Never rely on alarm systems to save your life, common sense is still prudent and necessary.
Please read the owner’s manual supplied by the CO detector manufacturer and included with this
manual, for operation instructions and additional information regarding the hazards of carbon
monoxide gas. Refer to the Ventilation chapter for information on ventilating your boat properly
while underway and other precautions while at anchor or in a slip. This is especially essential if
your boat is equipped with the optional generator. The book entitled “Sportfish, Cruisers, Yachts
- Owner's Manual,” included with this manual, also has additional information and cautions
regarding carbon monoxide poisoning.
Many manufacturers of carbon monoxide detectors offer a testing and recertification program. We
recommend that you contact the manufacturer of your carbon monoxide detector and have it tested
and recertified periodically.
ACTUATION OF THE CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR INDICATES THE PRESENCE OF
CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) WHICH CAN BE FATAL. EVACUATE THE CABIN IMMEDIATELY. DO A HEAD COUNT TO CHECK THAT ALL PERSONS ARE ACCOUNTED FOR.
DO NOT REENTER THE CABIN UNTIL IT HAS BEEN AIRED OUT AND THE PROBLEM
FOUND AND CORRECTED.
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9.7 First Aid
It is the operator's responsibility to be familiar with the proper firstaid procedures and be able to care for minor injuries or illnesses
of your passengers. In an emergency, you could be far from
professional medical assistance. We strongly recommend that
you be prepared by receiving training in basic first aid and CPR.
This can be done through classes given by the Red Cross or your
local hospital.
Your boat also should be equipped with at least a simple marine first-aid kit and a first-aid manual.
The marine first-aid kit should be designed for the marine environment and be well supplied. It
should be accessible and each person on board should be aware of its location. As supplies are
used, replace them promptly. Some common drugs and antiseptics may lose their strength or
become unstable as they age. Ask a medical professional about the supplies you should carry and
the safe shelf life of prescription drugs or other medical supplies that may be in your first-aid kit.
Replace questionably old supplies whether they have been used or not.
In many emergency situations, the Coast Guard can provide assistance in obtaining medical advice
for treatment of serious injuries or illness. If you are within VHF range of a Coast Guard Station,
make the initial contact on channel 16 and follow their instructions.
9.8 Additional Safety Equipment
Besides meeting the legal requirements, prudent boaters carry additional safety equipment. This
is particularly important if you operate your boat offshore. You should consider the following
items, depending on how you use your boat.
Satellite EPIRBS
EPIRBs (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) operate as part of a worldwide distress
system. When activated, EPIRBs will send distress code homing beacons that allow Coast Guard
aircraft to identify and find them quickly. The satellites that receive and relay EPIRB signals are
operated by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) in the United States.
The EPIRB should be mounted and registered according to the instructions provided with the
beacon, so that the beacon's unique distress code can be used to quickly identify the boat and owner.
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Additional Equipment to Consider:
VHF Radio
Heaving Line
Flashlight
Sunburn Lotion
Whistle or Horn
Boat Hook
Food & Water
Marine Hardware
Life Raft
Fenders
Mirror
Tool Kit
Anchor
Spare Propeller
Binoculars
Extra Clothing
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Spare Anchor
First Aid Kit
Searchlight
Ring Buoy
Chart and Compass
Mooring Lines
Sunglasses
Spare Parts
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Chapter 10:
OPERATION
10.1 General
Before you start the engines on your Pursuit, you should have become familiar with the various
component systems and their operation, and have performed a “Pre-Cruise System Check." A
thorough understanding of the component systems and their operation is essential to the proper
operation of the boat. This manual and the associated manufacturers’ information is provided to
enhance your knowledge of your boat. Please read them carefully. Also read the book titled
“Sportfish, Cruisers, Yachts - Owner's Manual,” included in your literature packet.
Your boat must have the necessary safety equipment on board and be in compliance with the U.S.
Coast Guard, local and state safety regulations. There should be one Personal Floatation Device
(PFD) for each person. Nonswimmers and small children should wear PFDs at all times. You
should know and understand the “Rules of the Road" and have had an experienced operator brief
you on the general operation of your new boat. At least one other person should be instructed on
the proper operation of the boat in case the operator is suddenly incapacitated.
The operator is responsible for his safety and the safety of his passengers. When boarding or
loading the boat, always step onto the boat, never jump. All passengers should be properly seated
whenever the boat is operated above idle speed. Your passengers should not be allowed to sit on
the seat backs, gunnels, bows, transoms or on fishing seats whenever the boat is underway. The
passengers also should be seated to properly balance the load and must not obstruct the operator's
view, particularly to the front.
Overloading and improper distribution of weight can cause the boat to become unstable and are
significant causes of accidents. Know the weight capacity and horsepower rating of your boat.
Do not overload or overpower your boat. Remember, it is the operator's responsibility to use
good common sense and sound judgement in loading and operating the boat.
10.2 Rules of the Road
As in driving an automobile, there are a few rules you must know for safe boating operation. The
following information describes the basic navigation rules and action to be taken by vessels in a
crossing, meeting or overtaking situation while operating in inland waters. These are basic
examples and not intended to teach all the rules of navigation. For further information consult the
“Navigation Rules” or contact the Coast Guard, Coast Guard Auxiliary, Department of Natural
Resources, or your local boat club. These organizations sponsor courses in boat handling,
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including rules of the road. We strongly recommend such courses. Books or videos on this subject
also are available from your local library.
SAILBOATS NOT UNDER POWER, PADDLE BOATS, VESSELS UNABLE TO MANEUVER,
VESSELS ENGAGED IN COMMERCIAL FISHING AND OTHER VESSELS WITHOUT POWER
HAVE THE RIGHT OF WAY OVER MOTOR POWERED BOATS. YOU MUST STAY CLEAR
OR PASS TO THE STERN OF THESE VESSELS. SAILBOATS UNDER POWER ARE CONSIDERED MOTOR BOATS.
Crossing Situations
When two motor boats are crossing, the boat on the right has the right of way. The boat with the
right of way should maintain its course and speed. The other vessel should slow down and permit
it to pass. The boats should sound the appropriate signals.
Meeting Head-On or Nearly-So Situations
When two motor boats are approaching each other head-on or nearly head-on, neither boat has the
right of way. Both boats should reduce their speed and turn to the right so as to pass port side to
port side, providing enough clearance for safe passage. The boats should sound the appropriate
signals.
Overtaking Situations
When one motor boat is overtaking another motor boat, the boat that is being passed has the right
of way. The overtaking boat must make the adjustments necessary to provide clearance for a safe
passage of the other vessel. The boats should sound the appropriate signals.
The General Prudential Rule
In obeying the Rules of the Road, due regard must be given to all dangers of navigation and
collision, and to any special circumstances, including the limitations of the vessels, which may
justify a departure from the rules that is necessary to avoid immediate danger or a collision.
Navigation Aids
Aids to navigation are placed along coasts and navigable waters as guides to mark safe water and
to assist mariners in determining their position in relation to land and hidden dangers. Each aid to
navigation is used to provide specific information. You should be familiar with these and any other
markers used in your boating area.
STORMS AND WAVE ACTION CAN CAUSE BUOYS TO MOVE. YOU SHOULD NOT RELY
ON BUOYS ALONE TO DETERMINE YOUR POSITION.
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10.3 Pre-Cruise Check
Before Starting the Engines:
•
Check the weather forecast. Decide if the planned cruise can be made safely.
•
Be sure all required documents are on board.
•
Be sure all necessary safety equipment is on board and operative. This should include items
like the running lights, spotlight, life saving devices, etc. Please refer to Chapter 9 for additional
information on safety equipment.
•
Make sure you have signal kits and flare guns aboard, and they are current and in good operating
condition.
•
Be sure you have sufficient water and other provisions for the planned cruise.
•
Leave a written message listing details of your planned cruise with a close friend ashore (Float
Plan). The float plan should include a description of your boat, where you intend to cruise, and
a schedule of when you expect to arrive in the cruising area, and when you expect to return.
Keep the person informed of any changes in your plan to prevent false alarms. This information
will tell authorities where to look and the type of boat to look for in the event you fail to arrive.
•
Check the amount of fuel on board. Observe the “rule of thirds”: one third of the fuel for the
trip out, one third to return and one third in reserve. An additional 15% may be consumed in
rough seas.
•
Check the water separating fuel filters (if installed) for water. The engine fuel filters also should
be checked for leaks or corrosion.
•
Turn the battery switches on the TABS unit on.
•
Check the bilge water level. Look for other signs of potential problems. Monitor for the scent
of fuel fumes.
•
Test the automatic and manual bilge pump switches to make sure the system is working
properly.
•
Turn on the bilge blower. Check the blower output and operate five (5) minutes before starting
the engine. The blower also should be activated when operating below cruising speed.
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•
Have a tool kit aboard. The kit should include the following basic tools:
Spark Plug Wrench
Spark Plug Gap Gauge
Screwdrivers
Pliers
Adjustable Wrench
Needle Nose Pliers
End Wrench Set
Hammer
Electrician’s Tape
Lubricating Oil
Jackknife
Vise Grip Pliers
Wire Crimping Tool
Wire Connector Set
THERE MUST BE AT LEAST ONE PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICE ON BOARD FOR EVERY PERSON ON BOARD AND ONE THROW-OUT FLOTATION DEVICE. CHECK THE U.S.
COAST GUARD STANDARDS FOR THE CORRECT TYPE OF DEVICE FOR YOUR BOAT.
•
Have the following spare parts on board:
Extra light bulbs
Fuses and circuit breakers
Drain plugs
Propellers
Propeller nuts
•
Spark plugs
Flashlight and batteries
Engine and transmission oil
Fuel filters
Fuel hose and clamps
Make sure all fire extinguishers are in position and in good operating condition.
VAPORIZING LIQUID EXTINGUISHERS GIVE OFF TOXIC FUMES; USE ONLY COAST GUARD
APPROVED FIRE EXTINGUISHERS.
10.4 Operating Your Boat
GASOLINE VAPORS CAN EXPLODE. BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINES, OPERATE THE
ENGINE COMPARTMENT BLOWER FOR FIVE (5) MINUTES, OPEN THE ENGINE HATCH,
INSPECT THE FUEL SYSTEM AND CHECK THE ENGINES FOR THE ODOR OF GASOLINE
VAPORS. ALWAYS OPERATE THE BLOWER WHILE THE ENGINES ARE AT IDLE. DO
NOT START OR OPERATE THE ENGINES IF FUEL FUMES ARE PRESENT. UNDER NO
CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THIS PROCEDURE BE OVERLOOKED.
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After Starting the Engines:
•
Check the engine gauges. Make sure they are reading normally.
•
Visibly check the engines to be sure there are no apparent water, fuel or oil leaks.
•
Check the operation of the engine cooling systems by inspecting the transom exhaust ports for
water flow. (Refer to section 1.4)
•
Check the steering and engine controls for proper operation.
•
Make sure all lines, cables, anchors, etc. for securing a boat are on board and in good condition.
All lines should be coiled, secured and off the decks when underway.
•
Have a safe cruise and enjoy yourself.
Remember:
When you operate a boat, you accept the responsibility for the boat, for the safety of passengers and
for others out enjoying the water.
•
Alcohol and any drugs can severely reduce your reaction time and affect your better judgement.
•
Alcohol severely reduces the ability to react to several different signals at once.
•
Alcohol makes it difficult to correctly judge speed and distance, or track moving objects.
•
Alcohol reduces night vision, and the ability to distinguish red from green.
YOU SHOULD NEVER OPERATE YOUR BOAT WHILE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF ALCOHOL AND DRUGS.
MAKE SURE ONE OTHER PERSON ON THE BOAT IS INSTRUCTED IN THE OPERATION
OF THE BOAT.
MAKE SURE THE BOAT IS OPERATED IN COMPLIANCE WITH ALL STATE AND LOCAL
LAWS GOVERNING THE USE OF A BOAT.
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DO NOT OPERATE THE BOAT UNLESS IT IS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED. KEEP ALL
FASTENERS TIGHT. KEEP ADJUSTMENTS ACCORDING TO SPECIFICATIONS.
•
Always operate the blowers when operating the boat below cruising speed.
•
Avoid sea conditions that are beyond the skill and experience of you and your crew.
•
Before operating the boat for the first time, read the engine break-in procedures. The breakin procedures are found in the owner’s manual for the engines. The manual is in the literature
packet.
•
As different types of engines are used to power the boat, have the dealer describe the operating
procedures for your boat. For more instructions on “How To Operate The Boat,” make sure
you read the instructions given to you in the owner’s manual for the engines you have selected.
Note:
For more instructions on safety, equipment and boat handling, enroll in one of the
several free boating courses offered. For information on the courses offered in your
area, call the “Boating Course Hotline,” 1-800-368-5647.
Note:
If the running gear hits an underwater object, stop the engines. Inspect the
propulsion system for damage. If the system is damaged, contact your dealer for
a complete inspection and repair of the unit.
To stop the boat, follow this procedure:
•
Allow the engines to drop to the idle speed.
•
Make sure the shifting levers are in the neutral position.
Note:
If the engines have been run at high speed for a long period of time, allow the
engines to cool down by running the engines in the idle position for 3 to 5 minutes.
•
Turn the ignition keys to the “OFF” position.
•
Raise the trim tabs to the full up position.
After Operation:
•
If operating in saltwater, wash the boat and all equipment with soap and water.
•
Check the bilge area for debris and excess water.
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•
Fill the fuel tanks to near full to reduce condensation. Allow enough room in the tanks f o r
the fuel to expand without being forced out through the vent.
•
Turn off all electrical equipment except the automatic bilge pumps.
•
If you are going to leave the boat for a long period of time, put the battery main switches in the
“OFF” position and close all seacocks.
•
Make sure the boat is securely moored.
TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE BOAT, CLOSE ALL SEACOCKS BEFORE LEAVING THE
BOAT.
10.5 Grounding and Towing
If the boat should become disabled, or if another craft that is disabled requires assistance, great care
must be taken. The stress applied to a boat during towing may become excessive. Excessive stress
can damage the structure of the boat and create a safety hazard for those aboard.
Freeing a grounded vessel, or towing a boat that is disabled, requires specialized equipment and
knowledge. Line failure and structural damage caused by improper towing have resulted in fatal
injuries. Because of this, we strongly suggest that these activities be left to those who have the
equipment and knowledge, e.g., the U.S. Coast Guard or a commercial towing company, to safely
accomplish the towing task.
THE MOORING CLEATS ON PURSUIT BOATS ARE NOT DESIGNED OR INTENDED TO BE
USED FOR TOWING PURPOSES. THESE CLEATS ARE SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED AS
MOORING CLEATS FOR SECURING THE BOAT TO A DOCK, PIER, ETC. DO NOT USE
THESE FITTINGS FOR TOWING OR ATTEMPTING TO FREE A GROUNDED VESSEL.
WHEN TOWING OPERATIONS ARE UNDERWAY, HAVE EVERYONE ABOARD BOTH VESSELS STAY CLEAR OF THE TOW LINE AND SURROUNDING AREA. A TOW LINE THAT
SHOULD BREAK WHILE UNDER STRESS CAN BE VERY DANGEROUS, AND COULD CAUSE
SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH.
RUNNING AGROUND CAN CAUSE SERIOUS INJURY TO PASSENGERS AND DAMAGE TO A
BOAT AND ITS UNDERWATER GEAR. IF YOUR BOAT SHOULD BECOME GROUNDED,
DISTRIBUTE PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES AND INSPECT THE BOAT FOR POSSIBLE
DAMAGE. THOROUGHLY INSPECT THE BILGE AREA FOR SIGNS OF LEAKAGE. AN
EXPERIENCED SERVICE FACILITY SHOULD CHECK YOUR UNDERWATER GEAR AT THE
FIRST OPPORTUNITY. DO NOT CONTINUE TO USE YOUR BOAT IF THE CONDITION OF
THE UNDERWATER EQUIPMENT IS QUESTIONABLE.
3000 EXPRESS
10-7
10.6 Fishing
Fishing can be very exciting and distracting for the operator when the action gets intense. You must
always be conscious of the fact that your primary responsibility is the safe operation of your boat
and the safety of your passengers and other boats in the area.
You must always make sure the helm is properly manned and is never left unattended while trolling.
If your boat is equipped with a tower, caution and good common sense must be exercised whenever
someone is in the tower. Most towers are designed for two average-sized people. Remember,
weight in the tower raises the boat's center of gravity and the boat's motion is greatly exaggerated
for the people in a tower.
If you are fishing in an area that is crowded with other fishing boats, it may be difficult to follow
the rules of the road. This situation can become especially difficult when most boats are trolling.
Being courteous and exercising good common sense is essential. Avoid trying to assert your right
of way and concentrate on staying clear and preventing tangled or cut lines and other unpleasant
encounters with other boats. Also keep in mind that fishing line wrapped around a propeller shaft
can damage the strut bearing.
10.7 Tower Operation (Dealer Option)
Your boat could be equipped with a fabricated aluminum tower by your dealer. Towers are
normally equipped with full engine controls, trim tab controls, compass, engine alarms, restart
buttons and tachometers. This allows for complete operation of the boat from the tower.
Operation of the Tower Controls
The engines should be started at the lower helm. Monitor the gauges to make sure all systems are
normal and the engines have been allowed to warm up slightly before proceeding to the tower helm.
The ignition or restart switches on the tower are only used to restart an engine in the event it should
stall. The shift controls must be in neutral for the start switches to be functional.
The following is a list of safety precautions for tower operation:
•
Do not operate the boat from the tower in rough sea conditions. The boat’s motions are
exaggerated in the tower and this motion may become excessive in rough seas.
•
Be careful when using the trim tabs from the tower. The reaction of the trim tabs will be
exaggerated in the tower. Use small tab corrections and wait ten (10) seconds for the tabs to
react. Keep making small corrections until the hull is at the desired attitude.
•
Do not overload the tower. Most towers are designed to hold the weight of only two averagesized people. Weight in the tower raises the boat’s center of gravity. Too much weight in the
tower could make the boat unstable.
10-8
3000 EXPRESS
•
Do not operate the boat in tight quarters, such as marinas, from the tower. The operator is
isolated from the boat while in the tower and will not be able to assist in docking procedures.
•
Always pay close attention to your grip and footing on the tower ladders. Your ability to
achieve a good grip and proper footing is reduced in wet or rough weather. Therefore, the tower
should be avoided in these conditions.
•
Only operate the boat from the tower in familiar waters or where running aground is not a
possibility. Running aground while operating the boat from the tower could result in severe
injury.
•
Always be alert for waves and boat wakes when operating the boat from the tower. Remember
that the boat's motions are exaggerated in the tower.
•
Good common sense and judgment must be exercised at all times when operating a boat from
the tower.
•
If an engine alarm sounds, immediately put the boat in NEUTRAL and shut OFF the engine(s)
until the problem is found.
•
Always put the boat in NEUTRAL before moving to and from the tower helm and cockpit.
GOOD COMMON SENSE, JUDGEMENT AND EXTREME CAUTION MUST BE EXERCISED
WHEN OPERATING A BOAT WITH SOMEONE IN THE TOWER. DO NOT ALLOW ANYONE IN THE TOWER WHEN THE WATER IS ROUGH OR WHEN OPERATING IN UNFAMILIAR WATERS WHERE RUNNING AGROUND IS A POSSIBILITY. REMEMBER, WEIGHT
IN THE TOWER RAISES THE BOAT'S CENTER OF GRAVITY AND THE BOAT'S MOTION
IS GREATLY EXAGGERATED FOR THE PEOPLE IN THE TOWER.
3000 EXPRESS
10-9
10.8 Transporting Your Boat
The Pursuit 3000 Express is a large boat and should only be trailered by professionals that have the
knowledge and equipment to move large boats without causing damage.
Please contact your dealer or the Pursuit Customer Relations Department if you are planning to
transport your boat and have any questions in regard to the proper equipment and support for the
hull.
BOATS HAVE BEEN DAMAGED BY TRAILERS THAT DON’T PROPERLY SUPPORT THE
HULL. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE TRAILER BUNKS AND PADS ARE ADJUSTED SO THEY
ARE NOT PUTTING EXCESSIVE PRESSURE ON THE LIFTING STRAKES AND ARE PROVIDING ENOUGH SUPPORT FOR THE HULL. HULL DAMAGE RESULTING FROM IMPROPER TRAILER SUPPORT IS NOT COVERED BY THE PURSUIT WARRANTY.
10-10
3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 11:
EXTERIOR EQUIPMENT
11.1 Deck
Rails and Deck Hardware
The rail system and hardware fittings have been selected and installed to perform specific functions.
Fenders or mooring lines should be secured to the cleats and not to rails or stanchions. The stern
is equipped with a hawse pipe and cleat system. Mooring lines should be fed through the hawse
pipes then secured to the stern cleats. Be sure a clear lead exists when running dock lines or anchor
lines. A line inadvertently run around a stanchion or over the rail could cause damage.
Important Note: All fittings must be inspected periodically for loose fit or wear and
damage. Any problems should be corrected immediately.
PURSUIT BOATS ARE NOT EQUIPPED WITH HARDWARE DESIGNED FOR TOWING PURPOSES. THE MOORING CLEATS ARE NOT TO BE USED FOR TOWING ANOTHER VESSEL OR HAVING THIS BOAT TOWED.
Bow Pulpit and Roller
The bow pulpit is built into the hull and is equipped with
a roller assembly that allows the anchor to be operated and
stored at the pulpit. The pulpit roller is designed for a
Delta® plow or a Danforth® style anchor. The anchor line
is stored in the rope locker and routed out the rope locker
hatch, through the roller and connected to the anchor
chain. A cleat or chain binder is provided on the deck near
the pulpit to secure the anchor. Always make sure the
anchor is properly secured when it is in the stored position
on the pulpit.
Anchor/Rope Locker
The anchor locker is in the bow of the boat and accessed
through a hatch in the deck. The locker is recessed for a
Danforth style anchor. The anchor line is always stored
in the locker. If an anchor is stored in the anchor locker,
it must be properly secured to prevent it from bouncing in
the locker and causing damage to the hull or anchor
locker.
3000 EXPRESS
Bow Pulpit , Roller and
Anchor/Rope Locker
11-1
The anchor locker is drained by thru hull fittings in the hull side near the bottom of the locker. It
is very important to check the drains frequently to make sure they are clean and free flowing.
THE ANCHOR MUST BE POSITIONED SO IT DOES NOT REST AGAINST THE HULL SIDES
AND BE PROPERLY SECURED AT ALL TIMES WHEN IT IS STORED IN THE ANCHOR
LOCKER. A LOOSE ANCHOR IN THE ANCHOR LOCKER WILL BOUNCE AND CAN DAMAGE THE BOAT. DAMAGE RESULTING FROM THE ANCHOR BOUNCING IN THE ANCHOR LOCKER IS NOT COVERED BY THE PURSUIT WARRANTY.
Windlass (Optional)
The optional windlass is mounted to the deck near the rear of the pulpit above the rope locker. The
anchor is stored on the pulpit and is raised and lowered by the windlass. The anchor line is stored
in the rope locker and routed out through the windlass to the anchor chain.
The anchor is lowered by releasing the anchor from the cleat or chain binder on the pulpit and
operating a “DOWN” control at the helm. The windlass control switch is activated by a breaker
located on the TABS unit. Push the button on the breaker in to activate the windlass control, the
breaker button can be pulled out to deactivate the windlass switch when the windlass is not in use.
After the anchor is set, the windlass must not be left to take the entire force from the anchor line.
Boats lying to their anchor in a high swell or heavy weather conditions will snub on the line. This
can cause slippage or apply excessive loads to the windlass. The line should be made fast to a bow
cleat to relieve the load on the windlass.
The anchor is hauled in by releasing the line from the bow cleat and operating the “UP” control at
the helm. Once the anchor is retrieved, independently secure the anchor to the chain binder or a
cleat to prevent it from being accidentally released. This is especially important while the boat is
under way.
The windlass manufacturer provides an owner’s manual with its product. It is extremely important
that you read the manual and become familiar with the proper care and operation of the windlass.
A WINDLASS MUST BE USED WITH CARE. IT IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT THAT YOU
READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL AND BECOME FAMILIAR WITH THE SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND PROPER OPERATION OF THE WINDLASS BEFORE USING IT WITH YOUR
BOAT. ALWAYS ENSURE THAT LIMBS, FINGERS, HAIR AND CLOTHING ARE KEPT
CLEAR OF THE WINDLASS AND ANCHOR LINE DURING OPERATION.
DO NOT USE A WINDLASS AS A SOLE MEANS OF SECURING AN ANCHOR IN THE BOW
PULPIT. ALWAYS SECURE THE ANCHOR LINE TO A CLEAT OR CHAIN BINDER BEFORE OPERATING YOUR BOAT.
11-2
3000 EXPRESS
Windshield
The Pursuit 3000 Express is equipped with a
vented heavy duty aluminum windshield
with tinted glass and built in hand rails. The
windshield is equipped with an opening vent
panel on each side of the windshield. To
open the vent, release the locking T-handles
and open the vent to the desired position.
Lock the vent in place by turning the Thandles 1/4 turn. The friction of the T-handle
in the guide will hold the vent in that position.
The front and side wing panels are tempered
safety glass. The curved glass panels on the
port and starboard side of the windshield are
made of tinted acrylic plastic glass.
Windshield
Acrylic glass scratches easily. Never use a dry cloth or glass cleaning solutions on acrylic. Use
a soft cloth and mild soap and water for routine cleaning. Solvents and products containing
ammonia can permanently damage acrylic. Please refer to the Routine Maintenance chapter for
more information on the proper care and maintenance of acrylic plastic glass.
11.2 Hull
Swim Platform (Optional)
Your Pursuit could be equipped with an optional swim platform in the stern of the boat. The swim
platform should only be installed by the Pursuit factory at the time of construction or by an
authorized Pursuit dealer. Improper swim platform installation can damage the boat’s transom or
interfere with the transom door.
A boarding ladder is recessed into the swim platform under a special hatch. To use the ladder, open
the hatch in the middle of the swim platform. Then pull the ladder out of the recess and unfold it
to the open position. The ladder must be folded into the recess and the ladder hatch properly
secured before starting the engines.
MOVING PROPELLERS ARE DANGEROUS. THEY CAN CAUSE DEATH, LOSS OF LIMBS,
OR OTHER SEVERE INJURY. DO NOT USE THE SWIM PLATFORM OR SWIM LADDER
WHILE THE ENGINE(S) ARE RUNNING. STOP THE ENGINE(S) IF DIVERS OR SWIMMERS ARE ATTEMPTING TO BOARD. ALWAYS REMOVE AND PROPERLY STORE THE
LADDER BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE(S).
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11-3
Trim Tabs
The trim tabs are recessed into the hull below the swim platform. The trim tabs are an important
part of the control systems. Please refer to the Helm Control Systems chapter for detailed
information on the trim tabs.
11.3 Cockpit
IN CERTAIN CONDITIONS, OPEN EXTERIOR DOORS AND HATCHES THAT ARE NOT SECURED PROPERLY CAN SLAM CLOSED UNEXPECTEDLY AND CAUSE INJURY TO PASSENGERS OR DAMAGE TO THE BOAT. MOST DOORS AND HATCHES ARE EQUIPPED
WITH SPECIAL FASTENERS, HATCH LIFTERS, OR SNAPS AND/OR STRAPS, TO SECURE
THEM IN THE OPEN POSITION. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THAT THESE HATCHES AND
DOORS ARE PROPERLY SECURED WHENEVER THEY ARE IN THE OPEN POSITION.
Engine Access
Access to the engines is provided by a day
hatch, located between the helm and the passenger seat or by raising the bridge deck above
the engine room. The bridge deck is raised by
electric hatch lifters activated by a switch in the
cockpit under the gunnel. The aft end of the
bridge deck is lifted and lowered by the electric actuators. The weight of water in the
livewell puts additional strain on the hinges
and the hatch lifters. You should never lift the
bridge deck with the livewell full.
Engine Hatch
A FULL LIVEWELL DRAMATICALLY INCREASES THE WEIGHT OF THE BRIDGE DECK
AND WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE BRIDGE DECK OR THE HATCH LIFTER WHEN
LIFTING THE BRIDGE DECK. DAMAGE TO THE BRIDGE DECK OR HATCH LIFTER
COULD CAUSE THE BRIDGE DECK TO DROP CAUSING SEVERE INJURY TO SOMEONE
IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. ALWAYS EMPTY THE LIVEWELL BEFORE LIFTING
THE BRIDGE DECK AND ENTERING THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT.
Cockpit Storage and Optional Livewell
The L-shaped lounge passenger seat is mounted on a large storage box. A cooler or optional
circulating livewell is located behind the lounge seat. The insulated cooler/livewell is supplied by
a raw water circulating pump and drains overboard when the livewell system is installed. Refer
to the Raw Water System chapter for additional information on the livewell system.
Tackle Lockers and Prep /Entertainment Center
The prep/entertainment center is equipped with a sink, cutting board, tackle locker or optional ice
maker, aft facing seat and storage area. The sink is plumbed to the fresh water system and is drained
by gravity to a thru hull fitting in the hull side above the waterline.
11-4
3000 EXPRESS
A large tackle locker is built into the helm seat base. The tackle locker is lockable and has four
storage drawers.
Ice Maker
A 110-volt ice maker is supplied as optional equipment and is mounted in the prep/entertainment
center. The ice maker operates on 110-volt AC power only. The ice maker door has a special latch
to secure the door while under way, make sure the door is properly secured whenever the boat is
moving. Refer to the ice maker owner’s manual for additional operating and maintenance
instructions.
Transom Door and Gate
A transom door and gate is incorporated into the transom. The gate is secured by a latch on the
underside, and the door is secured by a special latch mounted on the inboard side of the door. The
transom door and gate should only be opened when the boat is not in motion. The door must be
latched in either the full “OPEN” or full “CLOSED” position. Never leave the transom door
unlatched.
Note:
Periodically inspect the transom door and gate fittings for wear, damage, or loose
fit. Any problems should be inspected and corrected immediately.
THE TRANSOM DOOR AND GATE SHOULD BE CLOSED AND PROPERLY LATCHED
WHENEVER THE ENGINE(S) ARE RUNNING. NEVER OPEN THE TRANSOM DOOR WHILE
UNDERWAY OR IN ROUGH SEA CONDITIONS. IN CERTAIN SITUATIONS, AN OPEN TRANSOM DOOR COULD ALLOW A SUBSTANTIAL AMOUNT OF WATER TO ENTER THE COCKPIT CREATING A POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS CONDITION.
OPERATING THE BOAT UNDER POWER WITH THE TRANSOM DOOR AND GATE OPEN
MAY ALLOW PERSONS TO FALL OVERBOARD AND INTO BOAT PROPELLERS OR TO
BE LOST IN OPEN WATER. ALWAYS CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE TRANSOM DOOR
AND GATE IS PROPERLY CLOSED AND LATCHED BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINES AND
NEVER OPERATE THE BOAT UNDER POWER WITH THE TRANSOM DOOR AND GATE
OPEN.
Below Deck Stern Fishbox
A fishbox is located in the stern below the cockpit sole. The fishbox is drained by a macerator pump
located in the bilge and activated by a momentary switch in the rear of the cockpit near the transom
door. A momentary switch is used because the pump will be damaged if it is allowed to run dry
for more than 30 seconds. The fishbox should be pumped out and cleaned after each use. Refer
to the Drainage Systems chapter for more information on the fishbox drainage.
Cockpit Shower
A freshwater shower is located behind a small door in the cockpit. It is supplied hot and cold water
by the freshwater system and works much like the shower in the head.
3000 EXPRESS
11-5
Stern Seat
A recessed fold down seat is built into the rear of
the cockpit. To use the seat, release the latches by
pulling sharply on the lower edge of the seat. Then
pull the strap at the bottom of the seat toward the
cockpit. The seat will move into the proper position as it slides out from the stored position. Make
sure the rear of the seat locks into the slot in the
center of the recess. To store the seat, pull the seat
forward and simultaneously push the front down
and toward the rear of the cockpit. This will cause
the seat to fold into the recess in the rear of the
cockpit. To secure the seat in the stored position,
make sure the male studs on the seat line up
properly with the female sockets mounted on the
rear of the recess for the seat. Secure the seat with
a sharp push to snap the studs into the sockets.
Stern Seat
Helm Seat (PEDISTAL)
The helm seat is a pedestal seat that swivels and adjusts fore and aft. There are two levers and one
tension knob on the seat base. Lifting the lever located at the front of the seat base allows the seat
to be adjusted fore and aft. Releasing the lever locks the seat in that position. Lifting the lever on
the port side of the seat base releases the pivot lock and allows the helm seat to be swiveled on the
pedestal. The helm seat will automatically lock when it is swiveled back to the operating position.
The friction knob adjusts the tension of seat base on the pedestal and is also located on the port side
of the seat. It should be adjusted to allow the seat to be swiveled when the swivel lock is released
and tight enough to eliminate play between the seat base and the pedestal.
Helm
The helm and engine controls are located on an
opening helm station. The helm station is hinged at
the bottom and opens to provide access to service the
helm equipment or to install electronics.
To open the helm station, slide the helm seat back as
far as it will go and release the special clamps at the
top of the helm. A strap holds the helm in the open
position and prevents it from opening too far. Always make sure the helm station clamps are properly
secured when the helm is closed.
Helm
ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE HELM STATION CLAMPS ARE PROPERLY SECURED BEFORE
OPERATING OR TRANSPORTING YOUR BOAT. IF THE HELM STATION IS NOT PROPERLY SECURED, IT COULD OPEN UNEXPECTEDLY AND DAMAGE THE BOAT OR CAUSE
LOSS OF CONTROL.
11-6
3000 EXPRESS
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD THE HELM BE OPENED WHEN THE ENGINE(S)
ARE RUNNING. IN SOME SITUATIONS IT IS POSSIBLE TO ACCIDENTALLY ENGAGE THE
ENGINE SHIFT INTO GEAR AND/OR ADVANCE THROTTLE CONTROLS AS THE HELM IS
OPENING. THIS COULD RESULT IN LOSS OF CONTROL, DAMAGE TO THE BOAT, AND
INJURY TO PASSENGERS.
Cabin door
The sliding cabin door is made of acrylic plastic glass and slides on a top and bottom track. A
lockable latch secures the door in the closed position. A special vinyl-covered latch secures the door
in the open position.
It is very important that the cabin door is secured properly in the open or closed position. The cabin
door is heavy and if the door is not properly latched, it could slide when the boat rocks and pinch
someone’s fingers between the door and the bulkhead or damage the door.
When closing the door, make sure you push the door against the door jam with enough pressure
to allow the latch to secure the door. When the door is open, it must be properly secured with the
latch near the top door track and to the port side of the companionway. To latch the door in the open
position, open the door until it hits the rubber bumper on the bulkhead. Then push the door against
the bumper, slightly compressing the bumper and allowing the vinyl covered latch to be raised
straight up. Release the door and the bumper will hold the door against the latch and prevent the
door from sliding as the boat rocks.
The door is made of acrylic plastic glass. Acrylic glass scratches easily and can chip. Always make
sure the bulkhead bumper and the vinyl-covered latch are in good condition. They should be
changed whenever they show signs of deterioration from the exposure to elements. Please refer
to the Routine Maintenance chapter for information on the proper care and maintenance of acrylic
plastic glass.
NEVER LEAVE THE CABIN DOOR UNLATCHED. THE CABIN DOOR IS HEAVY AND
SLIDES EASILY. IF THE DOOR IS LEFT UNLATCHED, IT COULD SLIDE UNEXPECTEDLY
AS THE BOAT ROCKS, DAMAGING THE DOOR OR CAUSING AN INJURY TO A PASSENGER. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE DOOR IS PROPERLY LATCHED IN THE OPEN OR
CLOSED POSITION.
Aluminum Arch with Bimini Top and Side Curtains
The canvas for Pursuit boats is custom fit to each boat. The bimini top is designed with a relatively
flat profile and a snug fit. The canvas is fit to the boat at the factory and the bimini top must be
installed properly in order for the clear connector and side curtains to fit.
To install the Bimini top, attach the main legs to the deck hinges using the quick release pins and
attach the rear of the bimini canvas to the radar arch. Next, open the bimini and attach the front bows
to the deck hinges on the top of the windshield frame. Use your body weight on the front corner
of the bimini to pull down and stretch the fabric until the eye on the bow lines up with the hole in
the deck hinge. Secure each eye to the deck hinge with the quick release pins. The bimini canvas
should be stretched tight when both sides of the front bow are secured to the windshield frame.
3000 EXPRESS
11-7
Attach the clear connector to the zipper at the front of the top and snap it to the brow and the top
of the windshield frame beginning with the center snaps. If the bimini top is adjusted properly, the
clear connector will have to be stretched just enough to pull out the wrinkles and reach the snaps
on the windshield. The front bow will continue to bear the main load of the top.
Once the clear connector is completely installed, the side curtains can be put on. Attach the side
curtains to the zippers on the sides of the bimini and to the front connector. Snap the curtains to
the windshield, deck and outboard snaps on the arch beginning with the forward snaps on the
windshield. If the bimini is adjusted properly, the side curtains will have to be stretched slightly
to pull out the wrinkles and reach the snaps. The main load for the top should remain on the front
bows and the arch.
If you have the optional drop curtain, attach it to the arch near the back of the top and to the inboard
snaps on the arch. Snap the drop curtain to the deck and cockpit.
Hard Top
The optional hard top consists of a laminated fiberglass top mounted to a welded aluminum frame
that is bolted to the deck. It is designed to accommodate radio antennas, radar antennas and
navigation lights. It could also be equipped with optional top gun outriggers and/or rod holders.
The hard top is not designed to support the additional weight of items like an instrument locker, life
raft or helm station. Radar and electronics antennas must be mounted to the top between the front
and rear legs. Do not mount any antennas or equipment to the brow area forward of the front legs.
The hard top frame is not designed to support the weight of accessories in this area and could be
damaged. The starboard rear leg is the wire chase for lights and antennas mounted to the top.
Because the aluminum frames vary slightly, the side curtains, front clear connector and drop curtain
are custom made to each boat at the factory. To install the curtains, slide the front clear connector
into the slide track at the front of the top and snap it to the brow and the top of the windshield frame
beginning with the center snaps. The clear connector will have to be stretched just enough to pull
out the wrinkles to reach the snaps on the windshield.
Once the clear connector is completely installed, the side curtains can be put on. Slide the side
curtains into the slide tracks on the sides of the top and to the zippers on the front connector. Snap
the curtains to the windshield and the deck beginning with the forward snaps on the windshield.
The side curtains will have to be stretched slightly to pull out the wrinkles and reach the snaps.
If you have an optional drop curtain, slide it into the slide track on the back of the hard top and attach
it to the rear of the side curtains. Snap the drop curtain to the deck and cockpit.
Note:
11-8
Cold weather can make the clear vinyl material on the curtains stiff and difficult
to stretch to the snaps. This can particularly difficult with new canvas that has been
stored off the boat. Laying the curtains in the sun for 30 minutes during the heat
of the day will make installing them much easier in cold whether.
3000 EXPRESS
The warranty for the hard top or arch will be void if they are modified in any way or heavy
accessories like life rafts, or electronics lockers are mounted to the top. Additionally, if items like
radar antennas spotlights and other accessories are mounted in the wrong location, the warranty
could be void. If you intend to add equipment or make modifications to the hard top or arch, you
should contact Pursuit Customer Relations to make sure the equipment you would like to add or
the intended modification will not void the warranty on the top.
3000 EXPRESS
11-9
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INTENTIONALLY
3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 12:
INTERIOR EQUIPMENT
12.1 Head Compartment and Marine Toilet
The head compartment is equipped with a sink, hot and cold faucet that converts to a shower by
pulling the faucet out of the base. A special seat folds down over the toilet to make showering more
comfortable.
Storage is in the vanity over the counter top and behind the door under the sink. Daylight and
ventilation is provided by an opening port light above the sink. There is also a 12-volt overhead
light. A 110-volt G.F.I. duplex outlet is provided next to the door below the sink.
Marine Head System
Your boat is equipped with a VacuFlush marine head system as
standard equipment. VacuFlush systems use a small amount of
water (one pint to one quart) and vacuum which is generated by the
12-volt vacuum pump to flush. The toilet is connected to the
pressurized fresh water system. Using fresh water results in less
odor in the head compartment.
Marine Head
To use the toilet, make sure the “Electric Head” breaker on the cabin DC breaker panel is on. Then
add water to wet the bowl by depressing the foot activated flush lever slightly until the desired water
level is reached. Flush the toilet by activating the flush lever all the way for approximately three
seconds or until contents clear the bowl. A sharp popping noise is normal when the vacuum seal
is broken and flushing action begins. It is also normal for a small amount of water to remain in the
bowl after flushing.
The waste is transferred into the holding tank where it
remains until it is pumped out by a waste dumping
station or the overboard macerator discharge system.
The waste moves through a one-inch opening in the
toilet base. Incoming air fragments the waste as it passes
through the base opening. This process eliminates the
need for macerators or mechanical motors in the toilet
base.
Holding Tank
3000 EXPRESS
12-1
The vacuum generator is mounted on the holding tank and contains stored vacuum. System
vacuum is monitored by a vacuum switch which is located on the vacuum generator tank. When
the switch senses a drop in vacuum in the system, it automatically signals the pump to energize and
bring the vacuum back to operating level. This process is normally completed in less than two
minutes.
It is normal for the stored vacuum to leak down slightly between flushes, causing the vacuum pump
to run for a short period. The pump should not run more than once every three hours after the last
flush for recharging the system. A holding tank fluid level monitor and macerator pump out switch
is located in a panel near the toilet. Please refer to the toilet manufacturer owner's manual for more
information on the operation of the marine head system.
Holding Tank and Macerator Discharge Pump
The holding tank and vacuum generator
is located in the engine compartment.
The Y-valve and macerator pump are
located on the rear engine room bulkhead
and accessed by lifting the bridge deck.
When the tank is full, the tank monitor
will show full and the vacuum pump will
not run. The tank must either be pumped
out by an approved waste dumping station through the waste deck fitting or be
pumped overboard with the optional
macerator discharge pump, when legal to
do so. The Y-valve is used to select the
waste deck fitting or the overboard macerator discharge pump.
To operate the macerator discharge pump,
Y-Valve with Macerator
move the Y-valve handle to the macerator pump-out position, open the ball valve at the overboard discharge thru hull fitting. Then activate
the momentary macerator switch located in the holding tank monitor panel in the head compartment, until the tank is emptied. Release the switch and close the discharge ball valve when pumping
is complete.
Note:
12-2
The macerator discharge pump can only be run dry for a couple of seconds.
Allowing the macerator pump to run after the holding tank is empty will cause
damage to the pump.
3000 EXPRESS
IN MANY AREAS IT IS ILLEGAL TO FLUSH HEAD WASTE DIRECTLY OVERBOARD. VIOLATION OF THESE POLLUTION LAWS CAN RESULT IN FINES OR IMPRISONMENT. ALWAYS KNOW THE LAW FOR THE AREAS IN WHICH YOU BOAT. NEVER DUMP HEAD
OR HOLDING TANK WASTE OVERBOARD ILLEGALLY.
Maintenance
The head should be cleaned and inspected for leaks regularly.
The holding tank should be pumped out and flushed as needed. Periodically add chemical to the
head to help control odor and to chemically break down the waste. See the manufacturer owner’s
manual for additional operating and maintenance information.
THE HEAD AND MACERATOR DISCHARGE SYSTEM MUST BE PROPERLY WINTERIZED
BEFORE WINTER LAY-UP. SEE SECTION ON WINTERIZING.
12.2 Galley and Sink
The galley is equipped with storage and a fresh water sink with hot
and cold faucets. Water is supplied
to the sink by a 12-volt pump located in the engine compartment.
When activated by the water pressure breaker in the 12-volt panel,
the water system will operate much
like the water system in a home.
An automatic pressure sensor keeps
the system pressurized. The sink
drains overboard through the cabin
drain system to a sump pump system below the head vanity compartment. See the Fresh Water
System chapter for more information on operating the fresh water
system.
Galley
Daylight and fresh air is provided to this area by an opening port window and by an overhead
opening hatch. Additional lighting is provided by two 12-volt lights on either end of the galley.
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12-3
Stove
The galley is equipped with a single burner electric stove recessed into the counter top. To activate
the stove, make sure the stove breaker in the AC breaker panel is on and remove the stove cover.
Then turn the control knob on the stove clockwise to turn the burner on. A manual for the stove
is included with your boat. It is extremely important that you read the manual and become familiar
with the proper care and operation of the stove before attempting to use it.
After cooking, be sure the element is turned off. Always be sure the burner is off and allowed to
cool before placing the cover back on the stove.
THE STOVE IS DESIGNED AS AN APPLIANCE FOR COOKING FOOD. DO NOT ATTEMPT
TO USE THE STOVE TO HEAT THE CABIN. USING THE STOVE TO HEAT THE CABIN
COULD CAUSE THE STOVE TO OVER HEAT RESULTING IN DAMAGE TO THE STOVE
OR A CABIN FIRE.
Refrigerator (AC - DC)
A dual voltage refrigerator is supplied as standard equipment and is mounted in the galley. This
unit will operate on 110-volt AC or 12-volt DC power. The refrigerator switches to 12-volt DC
automatically when the AC power is disconnected and the refrigerator breaker is activated on the
cabin DC panel. When 110-volt AC current is provided by the refrigerator circuit breaker on the
110-volt panel, the refrigerator automatically switches to AC power.
Care should be exercised while operating the refrigerator on 12-volt power without the engines
running. It draws a substantial amount of current and can severely drain a battery through extended
use. The refrigerator door has a special latch to secure the door while under way, make sure the
door is properly secured whenever the boat is moving. Refer to the refrigerator owner’s manual
for additional operating and maintenance instructions.
Microwave Oven
A microwave oven is provided as standard equipment on the 3000 Express Fisherman. The
microwave operates on 110-volt AC power and is protected by the microwave breaker in the 110volt AC breaker panel.
Please refer to the microwave owner's manual for detailed information on the microwave oven
installed in your boat.
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12.3 Convertible Dinette and Table
The dinette is on the starboard side of
the cabin. It is equipped with a table
and two lounge seats that will seat
four people when the table is in the up
position. There is a storage compartment below a hatch under each seat
cushion. If the optional air conditioning is installed, the rear lounge seat
storage area will be occupied by the
air conditioning unit and should not
be used for storage. The table is
mounted on an adjustable pedestal
that allows the dinette to be converted
to a double berth.
Convertable Dinette
To convert the dinette to a double berth, lift the cam lock lever on the pedestal base. Then carefully
push the table down until it seats on the teak table supports on each lounge seat. Secure the table
in the down position by pushing the cam lock lever down on the pedestal base. Place the separate
berth cushions on the table top to complete the berth conversion. The table also should be lowered
to the berth position whenever the boat is run offshore or in heavy sea conditions.
Daylight and fresh air is provided to this area by two opening port windows and by an overhead
opening hatch. Additional lighting is provided by 12-volt lights on either end of the dinette. The
air conditioning control unit, the AC and DC breaker panels, and the carbon monoxide detector are
located on the rear dinette bulkhead. The hanging locker and built-in stereo are mounted at the
forward end of the dinette. There also is recessed lighting below the teak trim at the base of the raised
dinette floor that is activated by the switch on the starboard side of the companionway.
Carbon Monoxide Detector
A carbon monoxide (CO) detector is installed in the cabin on the rear
bulkhead of the dinette. If excess carbon monoxide fumes are
detected, an audible beeping will sound indicating the presence of the
toxic gas.
A by product of combustion, carbon monoxide is invisible, tasteless,
odorless, and is produced by all engines, heating and cooking
appliances. The most common sources of CO on boats are gasoline
engines and auxiliary generators and propane or butane stoves.
These produce large amounts of CO and should never be operated
while sleeping.
Carbon Monoxide Detector
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12-5
Please read the owner's manual supplied by the detector manufacturer for operation instructions and
additional information regarding the hazards of carbon monoxide gas. Also read more about
carbon monoxide, carbon monoxide detectors, and proper ventilation in the Ventilation Systems
and Safety Equipment chapters in this manual. This is especially essential if your boat is equipped
with the optional generator. If you did not receive a manual for your carbon monoxide detector,
please contact the Pursuit Customer Relations Department.
ACTIVATION OF THE CARBON MONOXIDE DETECTOR INDICATES THE PRESENCE OF
CARBON MONOXIDE (CO) WHICH CAN BE FATAL. EVACUATE THE CABIN IMMEDIATELY. DO A HEAD COUNT TO CHECK THAT ALL PERSONS ARE ACCOUNTED FOR.
DO NOT REENTER THE CABIN UNTIL IT HAS BEEN AIRED OUT AND THE PROBLEM
FOUND AND CORRECTED.
12.4 Air Conditioner (Optional)
The air conditioning unit is the reverse cycle type and
operates on 110-volt AC power. The unit is equipped with
reverse cycle heat and can be operated as a cooling or
heating unit. It is protected by the accessory breaker in the
110-volt breaker panel. To operate, make sure the thru hull
valve for the air conditioner raw water supply pump is on.
Turn the air conditioner breaker in the AC breaker panel to
the “ON” position. The unit then will be controlled by the
air conditioning control panel in the cabin. When activated, water should continuously flow from the overboard
drain thru hull.
Air Conditioning Control Panel
The air conditioning unit creates condensation that drips into the pan at the base of the unit. A hose
attached to the rear of the pan drains the water to the bilge. It is normal for some water to be in the
pan whenever the air conditioner has been used.
See the Raw Water System chapter and the air conditioner owner’s manual for additional operating
and maintenance instructions.
The air conditioning unit is installed below the rear seat of the dinette. To avoid damage to the air
conditioner, you should make sure that no items are stored in this compartment if the air
conditioning option is installed in your boat.
Note:
12-6
Air conditioners use surface water as a cooling medium. The boat must be in the
water and the raw water supply system must be properly activated prior to use.
Operation without proper cooling could cause the air conditioning circuit breaker
to trip and could cause system damage. Always check for proper water flow out
of the air conditioning pump discharge thru hull when the air conditioner is
operating.
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12.5 V-Berth
A large v-berth is located in bow area of the cabin forward of the dinette and hanging locker. There
are storage compartments below hatches under each v-berth cushion Daylight and fresh air is
provided to this area by an overhead opening hatch. Additional lighting is provided by two 12-volt
lights on the forward bulkhead.
TV/VCR
The optional TV/VCR is mounted to a special bracket located on the top of the hanging locker. A
nylon strap secures the TV to the barcket and prevents it from bouncing out of the bracket while
the boat is underway. Always make sure the strap is properly installed on the television before
operating the boat.
An optional TV antenna can be installed on the aluminum arch or hard top. If this option is installed,
there will be a slide switch located below the top cabin step to select the dockside cable, when
availible, or the antenna. A red light on the antenna indicates that the antenna is selected and
activated.
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3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 13:
ROUTINE MAINTENANCE
13.1 Exterior Hull and Deck
Hull Cleaning-Below The Water Line
When the boat is removed from the water, clean the outer bottom surface immediately. Algae,
grass, dirt and other marine growth is easier to remove while the hull is still wet. Use a pressure
cleaner or a hard bristle brush to clean the surface.
Bottom Painting
If the boat is to be left in saltwater for extended periods, the hull must be protected from marine
growth by antifouling paint. Because of variations in water temperature, marine growth, and
pollution in different regions, your dealer and/or a qualified boat yard in your area should be
consulted when deciding what bottom paint system to apply to your hull. This is extremely
important as pollution and marine growth can damage fiberglass hulls.
SANDING OR SANDBLASTING THE HULL BOTTOM WILL DAMAGE THE FIBERGLASS.
USE ONLY STANDARD ANTIFOULING PAINTS AND FIBERGLASS WAX REMOVERS AND
PRIMERS RECOMMENDED BY THE ANTIFOULING PAINT MANUFACTURER WHEN PREPARING THE HULL FOR BOTTOM PAINT. SANDING OR SANDBLASTING AND THE USE
OF A COATING OTHER THAN STANDARD ANTIFOULING PAINT OR EPOXY BARRIER
COATINGS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED AND WILL VOID THE FIVE YEAR HULL BLISTER
WARRANTY.
Most bottom paints require some maintenance. Proper maintenance is especially important when
the boat is in saltwater and not used for extended periods or after dry storage. If the hull bottom
has been painted with antifouling paint, contact your dealer for the recommended maintenance
procedures.
Sacrificial Anodes
Sacrificial zinc anodes are installed on the inboard engines’ freshwater cooling system and on the
transom. The transom zinc is connected to the bonding system and protects the rudder assemblies,
shaft logs and other underwater hardware that is bonded. Additional zinc anodes are installed on
the propeller shafts and the trim tab planes.
The anodes are less noble than copper based alloys and aluminum and will deteriorate first,
protecting the more noble engine and underwater hardware against galvanic corrosion. Anodes
should be checked monthly and changed when they are 75% of their original size. When replacing
the anodes, make sure the contact surfaces are clean, shiny metal and free of paint and corrosion.
Never paint over the anode.
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13-1
Boats stored in salt water will normally need to have the anodes replaced every 6 months to one
year. Anodes requiring replacement more frequently may indicate a stray current problem within
the boat or at the slip or marina. Anodes that do not need to be replaced after one year may not be
providing the proper protection. Loose or low quality anodes could be the problem. Contact your
dealer for the proper size and type of zinc anodes to be used and the specific installation procedure.
Fiberglass Gelcoat Surfaces
Normal maintenance requires only washing with mild soap and water. A stiff brush can be used
on the nonskid areas. Kerosene or commercially prepared products will remove oil and tar which
could be a problem on trailered boats. Harsh abrasive and chemical cleaners are not recommended
because they can damage or dull the gelcoat, reducing its life and making it more susceptible to
stains. When the boat is used in saltwater, it should be washed thoroughly with soap and water after
each use.
At least once a season, wash and wax all exposed fiberglass surfaces. Use a high quality automotive
or boat wax. Follow the procedure recommended by the wax manufacturer. The washing and
waxing of your boat will have the same beneficial effects as they have on an automobile finish. The
wax will fill minute scratches and pores thus helping to prevent soiling and will extend the life of
the gelcoat.
After the boat is exposed to the direct sunlight for a period of time, the color in the gelcoat tends
to fade, dull or chalk. A heavier buffing is required to bring the gelcoat back to its original luster.
For power cleaning use a light cleaner. To clean the boat by hand, use a heavier automotive cleaner.
Before cleaning the surfaces, read the instructions given with the cleaner. After cleaning the
surfaces, apply wax and polish all fiberglass surfaces except the nonskid areas.
If the fiberglass should become damaged and need repair, contact your dealer for an authorized
repair person to make the repairs.
DO NOT WAX NONSKID AREAS AS THIS COULD MAKE THEM SLIPPERY AND CONSEQUENTLY INCREASE THE POSSIBILITY OF INJURY.
Stainless Steel Hardware
When using the boat in saltwater, the hardware should be washed with soap and water after each
use. When your boat is used in a corrosive environment such as saltwater, water with a high sulfur
content, or polluted water, the stainless steel will periodically develop surface rust stains. This is
perfectly normal under these conditions. The stainless can normally be cleaned and protected by
using a high quality boat or automotive wax or a commercial metal cleaner and protectant.
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD ANY ABRASIVE MATERIALS SUCH AS SANDPAPER, BRONZE WOOL, OR STEEL WOOL BE USED ON STAINLESS STEEL. DAMAGE TO
THE HARDWARE WILL RESULT.
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Anodized Aluminum Surfaces
Anodized aluminum should be washed periodically with soap and water to keep it clean. If the boat
is used in saltwater or polluted water, the aluminum should be washed with soap and water after
each use. Saltwater allowed to remain on anodized aluminum will penetrate the anodized coating
and attack the aluminum.
Hardtops with aluminum frames, Bimini tops and towers with canvas and/or fiberglass tops require
special attention to the anodized aluminum just below the top. This area is subject to salt build up
from salty condensation and sea spray. It is also frequently overlooked when the boat is washed
and will not be rinsed by the rain. Consequently, the aluminum just below the top is more likely
to become pitted than the exposed aluminum on the structure. Make sure the aluminum in this area
is washed frequently with soap and water and rinsed thoroughly. Pay particular attention to places
where the top material and lacing contact the frame. Once a month coat the entire frame with a metal
protector made for anodized aluminum to protect against pitting and corrosion caused by the harsh
effects of salt water. The anodized aluminum used on your Pursuit was coated with a metal
protector called Aluma Guard® at the factory. Aluma Guard is a nonabrasive marine metal protector
that protects anodized aluminum, stainless steel, brass, and chrome. It also protects color anodizing
from fading and discoloring due to harmful ultraviolet rays. It is available from Rupp Marine Inc.,
4761 Anchor Avenue, P.O. Drawer F, Port Salerno, FL 34992.
ONE DRAWBACK TO ALUMA GUARD AND OTHER METAL PROTECTORS IS THAT THEY
CAN MAKE THE METAL SLIPPERY. THEREFORE, THEY SHOULD BE NOT BE USED
ON TOWER LADDERS, STEERING WHEELS AND OTHER AREAS WHERE A GOOD GRIP
AND SURE FOOTING IS IMPORTANT.
Stains can be removed with a metal polish or fine polishing compound. To minimize corrosion,
use a caulking compound to bed hardware and fasteners mounted to aluminum fabrications. If the
anodized coating is badly scratched it can be touched up with paint. With proper care, anodized
aluminum will provide many years of service.
Note:
You should contact Pursuit Customer Relations before making any modifications
to aluminum fabrications. Unauthorized modifications can void the warranty.
Chrome Hardware
Use a good chrome cleaner and polish on all chrome hardware.
Acrylic Plastic Glass
Acrylic glass scratches easily. Never use a dry cloth or glass cleaning solutions on acrylic. Use a
soft cloth and mild soap and water for routine cleaning. Solvents and products containing ammonia
can permanently damage acrylic plastic glass.
Fine scratches can be removed with a fine automotive clear coat polishing compound. A coat of
automotive or boat wax is beneficial to protect the surface.
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13-3
Do not use the following on acrylic glass:
Abrasive cleaners
Solvents
Glass cleaners
Acetone
Alcohol
Cleaners containing ammonia
13.2 Upholstery, Canvas and Enclosures
Vinyl Upholstery
The vinyl upholstery used on the exterior seats and bolsters, and for the headliner in some cabins,
should be cleaned periodically with soap and water. Any stain, spill or soiling should be cleaned
up promptly to prevent the possibility of permanent staining. When cleaning, always rub gently.
Avoid using products containing ammonia, powdered abrasive cleaners, steel wool, strong
solvents, acetone and lacquer solvents or other harsh chemicals as they can cause permanent
damage or shorten the life of vinyl. Never use steam heat, heat guns or hair dryers on vinyl.
Stronger cleaners, detergents and solvents may be effective in stain removal, but can cause either
immediate damage or slow deterioration. Lotions, sun tan oil, waxes and polishes, etc., contain oils
and dyes that can cause stiffening and staining of vinyls.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Dry soil, dust and dirt - Remove with a soft cloth.
Dried on dirt - Wash with a soft cloth dampened with water.
Variations in surface gloss - Wipe with a water dampened soft cloth and allow to air dry.
Stubborn dirt - Wash with a soft cloth dampened with Ivory Flakes® and water. Rinse with
clean water.
Stubborn spots and stains - Spray with either Fantastik Cleaner® or Tannery Car Care Cleaner®
and rub with a soft cloth. Rinse with clean water.
Liquid spills - Wipe immediately with a clean absorbent cloth. Rinse with clean water.
Food grease and oily stains - Spray immediately using either Fantastik Cleaner® or Tannery
Car Care Cleaner®, wiping with a soft cloth. Take care not to extend the area of contamination
beyond its original boundary. Rinse with clean water.
Canvas and Side Curtains
Acrylic canvas should be cleaned periodically by using a mild soap and water. Scrub lightly and
rinse thoroughly to remove the soap. Do not use detergents. The top or accessories should never
be folded or stored wet.
After several years, the acrylic canvas may lose some of its ability to shed water. If this occurs, wash
the fabric and treat it with a commercially available water proofing designed for this purpose.
Note:
Some leakage at the seams is normal and unavoidable with acrylic enclosures.
Side curtains and clear connectors can be cleaned with mild soap and water. They should not be
allowed to become badly soiled. Dirt, oil, mildew, and cleaning agents containing ammonia, will
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shorten the life of the vinyl that is used for clear curtains. After cleaning the curtains and allowing
them to dry, apply a non-lemon furniture polish or an acrylic glass and clear plastic protector to
extend the life of the curtains.
Vinyl curtains should be stored either rolled or flat, without folds or creases. Folding the curtains
will make permanent creases that could cause the vinyl to crack.
DO NOT USE ANY POLISH CONTAINING LEMON SCENTS OR LEMON. THE LEMON
JUICE WILL ATTACK THE VINYL AND SHORTEN ITS LIFE.
Snaps should be lubricated periodically with petroleum jelly or silicone grease. Zippers should be
lubricated with silicone spray or paraffin.
The bimini top, side curtains, clear connector, back drop and aft curtain must be removed when
trailering. Canvas enclosures are not designed to withstand the extreme wind pressure encountered
while trailering and will be damaged. Always remove and properly store the enclosure before
trailering your boat.
Do not operate engines, fuel consuming heaters or burners with the canvas enclosures closed. The
cockpit must be open for legal ventilation and to prevent the possible accumulation of carbon
monoxide fumes, which could be lethal.
CARBON MONOXIDE IS A LETHAL, TOXIC GAS THAT IS COLORLESS AND ODORLESS.
IT IS A DANGEROUS GAS THAT WILL CAUSE DEATH IN CERTAIN LEVELS.
13.3 Cabin Interior
The cabin interior can be cleaned just like you would clean a home interior. To preserve the teak
woodwork, use teak oil. To maintain the carpeting, use a vacuum cleaner. Because air and sunlight
are very good cleansers, periodically put cushions, sleeping bags, etc. on deck, in the sun and fresh
air, to dry and air out. If cushions or equipment get wet with saltwater, remove and use clean, fresh
water to rinse off the salt crystals. Salt retains moisture and will cause damage. Dry thoroughly
and reinstall.
Vinyl headliner material should be cleaned periodically as explained in the previous section. Avoid
using products containing ammonia, bleach, or harsh chemicals as they can shorten the life of vinyl.
If you leave the boat for a long period of time, put all cushions on their sides, open all interior cabin
and locker doors, and hang a commercially available mildew protector in the cabin.
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13-5
ALWAYS READ THE LABEL CAREFULLY ON MILDEW PROTECTORS. REMOVE THE
PROTECTOR AND ALLOW THE CABIN TO VENTILATE COMPLETELY BEFORE USING
THE CABIN.
13.4 Bilge and Engine Compartment
To keep the bilge clean and fresh, use a commercial bilge cleaner regularly. Follow the directions
carefully. The engines and engine room should be kept clean and free of oil accumulation and
debris. All exposed pumps and metal components, including the engines and drive gear, should
be sprayed periodically with a protector to reduce the corrosive effects of the high humidity always
present in these areas.
Maintenance intervals are outlined in the engine owner’s manuals. Their recommendations should
be followed exactly.
Periodically check the bilge pumps for proper operation and clean debris from the strainers and float
switches. Inspect all hoses, clamps and thru hulls for leaks and tightness on a regular basis and
operate all thru hull valves at least once a month to keep them operating properly.
A flow of air into the bilge is provided by vents located in the hull. Periodic inspection and cleaning
of the ventilation ducts is necessary to ensure adequate air circulation.
Engines
Proper engine maintenance is essential to the proper performance and reliability of your inboard
engines. Maintenance schedules and procedures are outlined in your engine owner’s manual.
They should be followed exactly.
Proper engine operation requires a good supply of clean, dry fuel. Improper marina fuel storage
techniques, limited boat usage, etc. can cause the fuel to become contaminated. Periodically, it may
be necessary to siphon accumulating water and contaminated fuel from the bottom of the fuel tanks.
Algae can grow in the accumulated water in diesel fuel tanks. This condition is most prevalent in
warm climates. Periodically adding a high quality diesel fuel additive containing an algicide may
be required to control algae in your boating area.
The age of gasoline can affect engine performance. Chemical changes occur as the gasoline ages
that can cause deposits and varnish in the fuel system as well as reduce the octane rating of the fuel.
Severely degraded fuel can damage the engine and boat fuel tank and lines. Therefore, if your boat
is not being run enough to require at least one full tank of fresh fuel a month, a fuel stabilizer should
be added to the gasoline to protect the fuel from degradation. Your dealer or the engine
manufacturer can provide additional information on fuel degradation and fuel stabilizers recommended for your engine.
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Avoid using fuels with alcohol additives. Gasoline that is an alcohol blend will absorb moisture
from the air which can reach such concentrations that "phase separation" can occur whereby the
water and alcohol mixture becomes heavy enough to settle out of the gasoline to the bottom of the
tank. Since the fuel pick up tube is very near the bottom of the tank, phase separation can cause
the engine to run very poorly or not at all. This condition is more severe with methyl alcohol and
will worsen as the alcohol content increases. Water or a jelly like substance in the fuel filters are
an indication of possible phase separation from the use of alcohol blended fuels.
Please contact your Pursuit dealer or engine manufacturer for additional information regarding
fuels and additives.
If the boat is raw water cooled and used in saltwater, flush the cooling system after each daily use.
To flush the system when the boat is out of the water, follow the procedure outlined in your engine
owner’s manual.
Generator (Optional)
The engine maintenance required on the generator is similar in many ways to the main engines. The
engine incorporates a pressure-type lubrication system and a fresh water cooled engine block which
is thermostatically controlled. The most important factors to the generator's longevity are proper
ventilation and maintenance of the fuel system, ignition system, cooling system, lubrication system
and the AC alternator.
Maintenance schedules and procedures are outlined in your generator owner’s manual. They
should be followed exactly.
Note:
Diesel generators consume DC electrical current and do not charge the battery
when they are running. Gasoline generators charge the battery just enough to
compensate for the DC electrical current the engine requires to operate. Therefore,
it is important to activate the battery charger to maintain the house battery
whenever the generator is running.
13.5 Drainage System
It is essential that the following items be done periodically to maintain proper drainage of your boat:
•
Clean the cockpit drains with a hose to remove debris that can block water drainage.
•
Clean the hardtop, tower or radar arch leg drain holes. This is especially important just before
winter lay-up.
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•
Frequently test the automatic bilge pump switch for proper operation. This is accomplished by
inserting a stiff wire or small rod through one of the slots in the float chamber of the pump and
lifting the float switch until the pump is activated. You can also use a garden hose to flood the
bilge until the water level is high enough to activate the pump.
•
Flush all gravity drains with freshwater to keep them clean and free flowing.
•
Operate the thru hull valves once a month and service as required.
Note:
All drains and pumps must be properly winterized before winter lay-up.
NEVER USE HARSH CHEMICAL DRAIN CLEANERS IN MARINE DRAIN SYSTEMS. PERMANENT DAMAGE TO THE HOSES AND FITTINGS MAY RESULT.
3000 EXPRESS
Chapter 14:
SEASONAL MAINTENANCE
14.1 Lay-up and Storage
Before Hauling:
•
Pump out the head. Flush the holding tank using clean water and a deodorizer. Pump out the
cleaning solution.
•
The fuel tank should be left nearly full to reduce condensation that can accumulate in the fuel
tank. Allow enough room in the tank for the fuel to expand without leaking out the vents.
Moisture from condensation in the fuel tank can reach such concentrations that it becomes
heavy enough to settle out of the gasoline to the bottom of the tank. Since fuel pickup tubes
are located near the bottom of the tank, this accumulated moisture can cause the engine to run
poorly or not at all after extended storage.
Algae can grow in the accumulated water in diesel fuel tanks. This condition is most prevalent
in warm climates. Adding a high quality diesel fuel additive containing an algicide may be
required to control algae during storage in your area.
Chemical changes also occur as the gasoline ages that can cause deposits and varnish in the fuel
system as well as reduce the octane rating of the fuel. Severely degraded fuel can damage the
engine and boat fuel tank and lines.
Therefore, if your boat is not being run enough to require at least one full tank of fresh fuel a
month or during winter storage, a fuel stabilizer should be added to the gasoline to help protect
the fuel system from these problems. Operate the boat for at least 15 minutes after adding the
stabilizer to allow the treated fuel to reach the engine.
Your dealer or the engine manufacturer can provide additional information on fuel degradation
and fuel stabilizers recommended for your engine. For more recommendations for your
specific area, check with your local Pursuit dealer.
•
Drain water from the fresh water system.
•
Consult the engine owner’s manual for detailed information on preparing the engines for
storage.
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Lifting
Sling locations
It is essential that care be used when lifting your boat. Make sure the spreader bar at each sling is
at least as long as the distance across the widest point of the boat that the sling will surround. Put
the slings in position. Refer to the drawing above for the correct position of the lifting slings. The
fore and aft slings should be tied together to prevent the slings from sliding on the hull.
The bow should be slightly higher than the stern while lifting the boat. This will allow the water
to drain from the engine exhaust system and prevent water from surging over the risers and into the
engine.
BOATS HAVE BEEN DAMAGED FROM IMPROPER LIFTING AND TRANSPORTING WITH
FORK LIFTS. CARE AND CAUTION MUST BE EXERCISED WHEN TRANSPORTING A BOAT
WITH A FORK LIFT. NEVER HOIST THE BOAT WITH A SUBSTANTIAL AMOUNT OF
WATER IN THE BILGE.
SEVERE GELCOAT CRAZING OR MORE SERIOUS HULL DAMAGE CAN OCCUR DURING
HAULING AND LAUNCHING IF PRESSURE IS CREATED ON THE GUNWALES (SHEER) BY
THE SLINGS. SPREADERS ARE NOT REQUIRED IF BELTS ARE NOT CREATING PRESSURE (CABLE DRUMS FURTHER APART THAN BEAM OF BOAT). FLAT, WIDE BELTING
SLINGS AND SPREADERS LONG ENOUGH TO KEEP PRESSURE FROM THE GUNWALES
ARE ESSENTIAL. DO NOT ALLOW ANYONE TO HAUL YOUR BOAT WHEN THE SPREADERS ON THE LIFT ARE NOT WIDE ENOUGH TO TAKE THE PRESSURE OFF THE GUNWALES.
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Supporting The Boat For Storage
A trailer or a well-made cradle is the best support for your boat during storage.
When storing the boat on a trailer for a long period:
• Make sure the rollers and pads support the hull of the boat.
•
Make sure the trailer is on a level surface and the bow is high enough so that water will drain
from the bilge, cockpit and exhaust system.
•
The trailer must properly support the hull. The bunks and rollers should match the bottom of
the hull and should not be putting pressure on the lifting strakes.
•
Make sure the hitch is properly supported.
•
Check the tires at least once each season. Add enough air for the correct amount of inflation
for the tires.
Note:
Read the owner’s manual for the trailer for the correct amount of inflation for the
tires.
When storing the boat on a cradle:
• The cradle must be specifically for boat storage.
•
Make sure the cradle is well supported and placed on a level surface with the bow high enough
so that water will drain from the bilge, cockpit and exhaust system.
•
The cradle must be in the proper fore and aft position to properly support the hull. When the
cradle is in the correct location, the bunks should match the bottom of the hull and should not
be putting pressure on the lifting strakes.
BOATS HAVE BEEN DAMAGED BY TRAILERS AND CRADLES THAT DON’T PROPERLY
SUPPORT THE HULL. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE BUNKS AND PADS ARE ADJUSTED SO
THEY ARE NOT PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE LIFTING STRAKES AND ARE PROVIDING
ENOUGH SUPPORT FOR THE HULL. HULL DAMAGE RESULTING FROM IMPROPER
CRADLE AND TRAILER SUPPORT IS NOT COVERED BY THE PURSUIT WARRANTY.
Preparing The Boat For Storage
•
Remove the bilge drain plug(s), if installed.
•
Thoroughly wash the fiberglass exterior, especially the antifouling portion of the bottom.
Remove as much marine growth as possible. Lightly wax the exterior fiberglass components.
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14-3
•
Remove all oxidation from the exterior hardware, and apply a light film of moisture displacing
lubricant.
•
Remove propellers and grease the propeller shafts using light waterproof grease.
•
Remove the batteries and store in a cool place. Clean using clear, clean water. Be sure the
batteries have sufficient water and clean terminals. Keep the batteries charged and safe from
freezing throughout the storage period.
Note:
Refer to the Electrical System chapter, for information on the maintenance of the
AC and DC electrical systems.
•
Coat all faucets and exposed electrical components in the cabin and cockpit with a protecting
oil.
•
Clean out, totally drain and completely dry the fishboxes, sinks and livewells.
•
Thoroughly clean the interior of the boat. Vacuum all carpets and dry clean drapes and
upholstery.
•
Remove cushions, open the refrigerator door and as many locker doors as possible. Leaving
as many of these areas open as possible will improve the boat’s ventilation during the storage
period.
Note:
•
It is recommended that a mildew preventer be hung in the boat’s cabin before it is
closed for storage.
Clean the exterior upholstery with a good vinyl cleaner and dry thoroughly. Spray the weather
covers and boat upholstery with a spray disinfectant. Enclosed areas such as the refrigerator,
shower basin, storage locker areas, etc. also should be sprayed with this disinfectant.
14.2 Winterizing
Freshwater System
The entire freshwater system must be completely drained. Disconnect all hoses, check valves, etc.
and blow all the water from the system. Make sure the water heater and freshwater tank are
completely drained. Use only very low air pressure when doing this to prevent possible system
damage. Because of the check valve mechanism built in the pump, blowing the lines will not
remove the water from the freshwater pump. Remove the inlet and outlet hoses on the pump. Turn
the pump on and allow it to pump out any remaining water....about a cupful. A recommended
alternative to the above-mentioned procedure is the use of commercially available non toxic,
freshwater system antifreeze. After draining the potable water tank, lines and water heater, pour
the antifreeze mixture into the freshwater tank, prime and operate the pump until the mixture flows
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from all freshwater faucets. Be sure to open all hot and cold water faucets, including the freshwater
shower in the cockpit and the faucet in the entertainment center. Make sure antifreeze has flowed
through all of the freshwater drains.
The shower/cabin drain sump system must be properly winterized. Clean debris from the drain and
sump and flush for several minutes with fresh clean water. After the system is clean, pump the drain
sump as dry as possible. Then pour a potable water antifreeze mixture into the shower drain until
antifreeze has been pumped through the entire system and out of the thru hull.
For additional information on the refer to the Fresh Water System chapter.
Raw Water System
Completely drain the raw water systems. Disconnect all hoses and blow the water from the system.
Use only very low air pressure when doing this to prevent possible system damage. Because of
the check valve mechanism built in the raw water washdown and livewell pumps, blowing the lines
will not remove the water from that raw water pump. Remove the outlet hose on the pump. Turn
the pump on and allow it to pump out any remaining water....about a cupful. A recommended
alternative to the above-mentioned procedure is the use of commercially available non toxic,
potable water system antifreeze. If potable water antifreeze is used, pour the mixture into a pail
and put the raw water intake lines into the solution. Run the pumps one at a time until the antifreeze
solution is visible at all raw water faucets, discharge fittings and drains. Be sure antifreeze has
flowed through all of the raw water drains.
Engine and Generator Raw Water Systems
Drain all of the sea strainers, heat exchangers and raw water supply and discharge lines for the
engine and optional generator raw water supply pumps. Make sure all sea water has drained from
the exhaust system. Some, but not all, engine mufflers could have a drain plug that must be removed
to properly drain the muffler. Once this is accomplished, pour a non toxic marine engine antifreeze
mixture into a large pail and put the engine raw water intake lines into the solution. Run the engines
one at a time until the antifreeze solution is visible at the transom exhaust port, then shut the engine
off.
Properly winterize the engines and fuel system by following the engine manufacturer’s
winterizing procedures located in your engine owner’s manuals or contact a Pursuit dealer.
Refer to the Raw Water System chapter for additional information on the raw water system.
Marine Toilet
The marine toilet must be properly winterized by following the manufacturer’s winterizing
instructions in the marine toilet owner’s manual. Drain the intake and discharge hoses completely
using low air pressure if necessary. The head holding tank and macerator discharge pump must
be pumped dry and one gallon of potable water antifreeze poured into the tank through the deck
waste pump out fitting. After the antifreeze has been added to the holding tank, open the overboard
discharge valve and activate the macerator pump until the antifreeze solution is visible at the
discharge thru hull.
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Note:
Make sure you follow the marine toilet manufacturer's winterizing instructions
exactly.
Air Conditioner
Disconnect and drain the air conditioner intake and discharge hoses. Remove all water from the
sea strainer and thru hull fitting. Allow all water to drain from the system. The air conditioner
components must be properly winterized by following winterizing procedure in the air conditioner
owner’s manual.
Note:
The air conditioning, engine control system, head, and steering systems have
specific lay up requirements. Please refer to their owner’s manuals for recommended winterizing procedures.
Bilge
Coat all metal components, wire busses, and connector plugs in the bilge with a protecting oil. It
is also important to protect all strainers, seacocks and steering components. The bilge pumps and
bilge pump lines must be completely free of water and dried out when the boat is laid up for the
winter in climates where freezing occurs. Compartments in the bilge that will not drain completely
should be pumped out and then sponged until completely free of water. Dry the hull bilge and selfbailing cockpit troughs. Water freezing in these areas could cause damage.
Hardtop and Radar Arch
It is imperative that all drain holes in the legs are open and that the legs are completely free of water.
Remove the canvas and thoroughly clean and store in a safe, dry place. Remove all electronics.
Coat all wire connectors and bus bars in the helm compartment with a protecting oil.
Clean the aluminum frame with soap and water and dry thoroughly. Apply an aluminum metal
protector to the entire frame to reduce corrosion and pitting.
ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE LEG DRAIN HOLES ARE CLEAR WHEN THE BOAT IS LAID
UP FOR THE WINTER. WATER TRAPPED INSIDE THE HARDTOP OR RADAR ARCH LEGS
COULD FREEZE AND CAUSE THE LEGS TO SPLIT.
Tower (if installed)
It is imperative that all drain holes in the tower and hardtop legs are open and completely free of
water. Tower basket drains should be checked and clear of debris. Remove the tower sun shade,
if installed, and belly band or removable cushions and thoroughly clean and store in a safe, dry
place. Remove all electronics. Coat all wire connectors and bus bars in the helm compartment with
a protecting oil. Cover the tower basket with a tarp and secure it properly.
Clean the aluminum frame with soap and water and dry thoroughly. Apply an aluminum metal
protector to the entire frame to reduce corrosion and pitting.
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Special Notes Prior To Winter Storage
If the boat will be in outside storage, properly support a storage cover and secure it over the boat.
It is best to have a frame built over the boat to support the canvas. It should be a few inches wider
than the boat so the canvas will clear the rails and allow passage of air. If this cover is fastened too
tightly there will be inadequate ventilation and this can lead to mildew, moisture accumulation, etc.
It is essential to fasten the canvas down securely so that the wind cannot remove it or cause chafing
of the hull superstructure. Do not store the boat in a damp storage enclosure. Excessive dampness
can cause electrical problems, corrosion, and excessive mildew.
Whenever possible, do not use the bimini top or convertible top canvas in place of the winter storage
cover. The life of these canvases may be significantly shortened if exposed to harsh weather
elements for long periods.
PLACING AN ELECTRIC OR FUEL BURNING HEATING UNIT IN THE BILGE AREA CAN
BE POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS AND IS NOT RECOMMENDED.
Proper storage is very important to prevent serious damage to the boat. If the boat is to be stored
indoors, make sure the building has enough ventilation. It is very important that there is enough
ventilation both inside the boat and around the boat.
Note:
If the boat is to be stored indoors or outdoors, open all drawers, clothes lockers,
cabinets, and doors a little. If possible, remove the upholstery, mattresses, clothing,
and rugs. Then hang a commercially available mildew protector in the cabin.
14.3 Recommissioning
DO NOT OPERATE THE BOAT UNLESS IT IS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED. KEEP ALL
FASTENERS TIGHT. KEEP ADJUSTMENTS ACCORDING TO SPECIFICATIONS.
Note:
It is important and recommended that the fitting out procedure for the marine gear
be done by a qualified service person. Read the engine owner’s manual for the
recommended procedure.
BEFORE LAUNCHING THE BOAT, MAKE SURE THE HULL DRAIN PLUG IS INSTALLED.
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MAKE SURE THE MUFFLERS HAVE NOT BEEN DAMAGED DURING WINTER STORAGE
AND THAT THE DRAIN PLUGS ARE INSTALLED AND PROPERLY TIGHTENED. LOOSE
OR MISSING DRAIN PLUGS AND DAMAGED OR LEAKING MUFFLERS OR EXHAUST HOSES
WILL ALLOW CARBON MONOXIDE, ENGINE GASES, AND WATER INTO THE BILGE CREATING A POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS CONDITION.
Note:
Not all mufflers are equipped with drain plugs.
Reactivating The Boat After Storage:
•
Charge and install the batteries.
•
Install the drain plug in the hull.
•
Check the engines for damage and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for recommissioning.
•
Check the engine mounting bolts to make sure they are tight.
•
Perform all routine maintenance.
•
Check all hose clamps for tightness.
•
Pump the antifreeze from the fresh and raw water systems and flush several times with fresh
water. Make sure all antifreeze is flushed from the water heater and it is filled with fresh water
before it is activated.
•
Check and lubricate the steering system.
•
Clean and wash the boat.
•
Install all upholstery, cushions and canvas.
After Launching:
•
Carefully check the engines and all water systems for leaks. Operate each system one at a time
checking for leaks and proper operation.
•
Check the bilge pump manual and automatic switches.
•
Check the propeller shaft couplings for proper alignment. Allow the boat to remain in the water
for several hours before checking the alignment.
•
Prime the fuel system and start the engines. When each engine starts, check the exhaust ports
for water flow. This insures that the cooling pump is operating.
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•
Carefully monitor the gauges and check for leakage and abnormal noises.
•
Operate the boat at slow speeds until the engine temperature stabilizes and all systems are
operating normally.
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Chapter 15:
SCHEMATICS
12-Volt Wiring Schematic
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15-1
110-Volt Wiring Schematic
15-2
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Battery Cable Schematic
15-3
15-4
Hydraulic Steering System
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Gas Fuel System
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15-5
15-6
Diesel Fuel System
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Fresh Water System
15-7
15-8
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Bridge Deck Raw Water System
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Head Plumbing System
15-9
Running Gear
Transmission
Coupler
Shaft
Coupler
Shaft
Coupler Assembly
Key
Cotter
Key
Shaft
Rudder Assembly
Prop Nuts
Propeller
Prop Assembly
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Shaft Seal Assembly
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Drainage System
15-12
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Bridge Deck Drainage System
Bridge Deck Plumbing
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15-13
Sling Positions
15-14
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Gas Exhaust System
15-15
15-16
Diesel Exhaust System
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APPENDIX A:
GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Aft: In, near, or toward the stern of a boat.
Aground: A boat stuck on the bottom.
Amidship: In or toward the part of a boat midway between the bow and stern.
Anchor: A specially shaped heavy metal device designed to dig efficiently into the bottom under
a body of water and hold a boat in place.
Anchorage: An area specifically designated by governmental authorities in which boats may
anchor.
Ashore: On shore.
Astern: Behind the boat, to move backwards.
Athwartship: At right angles to the center line of the boat.
Barnacles: Small, hard-shelled marine animals which are found in salt water attached to pilings,
docks and bottoms of boats.
Beam: The breadth of a boat usually measured at its widest part.
Bearing: The direction of an object from the boat, either relative to the boat's direction or to
compass degrees.
Berth: A bunk or a bed on a boat.
Bilge: The bottom of the boat below the flooring.
Bilge Pump: A pump that removes water that collects in the bilge.
Boarding: Entering or climbing into a boat.
Boarding Ladder: Set of steps temporarily fitted over the side of a boat to assist persons coming
aboard.
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Boat Hook: Short shaft of wood or metal with a hook fitting at one end shaped to aid in extending
one’s reach from the side of the boat.
Bow: The front end of a boat's hull.
Bow Line: A line that leads forward from the bow of the boat.
Bow Rail: Knee high rails of solid tubing to aid in preventing people from falling overboard.
Bridge: The area from which a boat is steered and controlled.
Bridge Deck: A deck forward and usually above the cockpit deck.
Broach: When the boat is sideways to the seas and in danger of capsizing; a very dangerous
situation that should be avoided.
Bulkhead: Vertical partition or wall separating compartments of a boat.
Cabin: Enclosed superstructure above the main deck level.
Capsize: When a boat lays on its side or turns over.
Chock: A deck fitting, usually of metal, with inward curving arms through which mooring or
anchor lines are passed so as to lead them in the proper direction both on board and off the boat.
Cleat: A deck fitting, usually of metal with projecting arms used for securing anchor and mooring
lines.
Closed Cooling System: A separate supply of fresh water that is used to cool the engine and
circulates only within the engine.
Coaming: A vertical piece around the edges of cockpit, hatches, etc. to stop water on deck from
running below.
Cockpit: An open space, usually in the aft deck, outside of the cabin.
Companionway: Opening in the deck of a boat to provide access below.
Compartment: The interior of a boat divided off by bulkheads.
Cradle: A framework designed to support a boat as she is hauled out or stored.
Cutlass Bearing: A rubber bearing in the strut that supports the propeller shaft.
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Deck: The floor-like platform of a boat that covers the hull.
Displacement: The volume of water displaced by the hull. The displacement weight is the weight
of this volume of water.
Draft: The depth of water a boat needs to float.
Dry Rot: A fungus attack on wood areas.
Dry-dock: A dock that can be pumped dry during boat construction or repair.
Electrical Ground: A connection between an electrical connector and the earth.
Engine Beds: Sturdy structural members running fore and aft on which the inboard engines are
mounted.
EPIRB: Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon. Operates as a part of a worldwide satellite
distress system.
Even Keel: When a boat floats properly as designed.
Fathom: A measure of depth. One Fathom = 6 feet.
Fender: A soft object of rubber or plastic used to protect the topsides from scarring and rubbing
against a dock or another vessel.
Fend off: To push or hold the boat off from the dock or another boat.
Flying Bridge: A control station above the level of the deck or cabin.
Flukes: The broad portions of an anchor which dig into the ground.
Fore: Applies to the forward portions of a boat near the bow.
Foundering: When a boat fills with water and sinks.
Freeboard: The height from the waterline to the lowest part of the deck.
Galley: The kitchen of a boat.
Grab Rail: Hand-hold fittings mounted on cabin tops or sides for personal safety when moving
around the boat, both on deck and below.
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Ground Tackle: A general term including anchors, lines, and other gear used in anchoring.
Grounds: A boat touches the bottom.
Gunwale: The upper edge of a boat’s side.
Hand Rail: Rail mounted on the boat, for grabbing with your hand, to steady you while walking
about the boat.
Harbor: An anchorage which provides reasonably good protection for a boat, with shelter from
wind and sea.
Hatch: An opening in the deck with a door or lid to allow for access down into a compartment
of a boat.
Head: A toilet on a boat.
Heat Exchanger: Used to transfer the heat that is picked up by the closed cooling system to the
raw cooling water.
Helm: The steering and control area of a boat.
Hull: The part of the boat from the deck down.
Inboard: A boat with the engine mounted within the hull of the boat. Also refers to the center
of the boat away from the sides.
Inboard/outboard: Also stern drive or I/O. A boat with an inboard engine attached to an outboard
drive unit.
Keel: A plate or timber plate running lengthwise along the center of the bottom of a boat.
Knot: Unit of speed indicating nautical miles per hour. 1 knot = 1 nautical mile per hour (1.15
miles per hour). A nautical mile is equal to one minute of latitude: 6076 feet. Knots times 1.15
equals miles per hour. Miles per hour times .87 equals knots.
Lay-up: To decommission a boat for the winter (usually in northern climates).
Leeward: The direction toward which the wind is blowing.
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Length On The Waterline (l.w.l.): A length measurement of a boat at the waterline from the stern
to where the hull breaks the water near the bow.
Limber Hole: A passage cut into the lower edges of floors and frames next to the keel to allow
bilge water to flow to the lowest point of the hull where it can be pumped overboard.
Line: The term used to describe a rope when it is on a boat.
Lists: A boat that inclines to port or starboard while afloat.
L.O.A.: Boat length overall.
Locker: A closet, chest or box aboard a boat.
Loran: An electronic navigational instrument which monitors the boat's position using signals
emitted from pairs of transmitting stations.
Lunch hook: A small light weight anchor typically used instead of the working anchor. Normally
used in calm waters with the boat attended.
Midships: The center of the boat.
Marina: A protected facility primarily for recreational small craft.
Marine Ways or Railways: Inclined planes at the water’s edge onto which boats are hauled.
Moored: A boat secured with cables, lines or anchors.
Mooring: An anchor permanently embedded in the bottom of a harbor that is used to secure a boat.
Nautical Mile: A unit of measure equal to one minute of latitude. (6076 feet)
Nun Buoy: A red or red-striped buoy of conical shape.
Outboard:
A boat designed for an engine to be mounted on the transom. Also a term that refers
to objects away from the center line or beyond the hull sides of a boat.
Pad Eye: A deck fitting consisting of a metal eye permanently secured to the boat.
Pier: A structure which projects out from the shoreline.
Pile or Piling: A long column driven into the bottom to which a boat can be tied.
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Pitching: The fore and aft rocking motion of a boat as the bow rises and falls.
Pitch: The measure of the angle of a propeller blade. Refers to the theoretical distance the boat
travels with each revolution of the propeller.
P.F.D: Personal Flotation Device.
Port: The left side of the boat when facing the bow.
Porthole (port): The opening in the side of a boat to allow the admittance of light and air.
Propeller: A device having two or more blades that is attached to the engine and used for
propelling a boat.
Propeller Shaft: Shaft which runs from the back of the engine gear box, aft, through the stuffing
box, shaft log, struts, and onto which the propeller is attached.
Pyrotechnic Distress Signals: Distress signals that resemble the brilliant display of flares or
fireworks.
Raw Water Cooled: Refers to an engine cooling system that draws sea water in through a hull
fitting or engine drive unit, circulates the water in the engine, and then discharges it overboard.
Reduction Gear: Often combined with the reverse gear so that the propeller turns at a slower rate
than the engine.
Reverse Gear: Changes the direction of rotation of the propeller to provide thrust in the opposite
direction for stopping the boat or giving it sternway.
Roll: A boat’s sideways rotational motion in rough water.
Rope Locker: A locker, usually located in the bow of a boat, used for stowing the anchor line or
chain.
Rubrail: Railing (often rubber or hard plastic) that runs along the boat’s sheer to protect the hull
when coming alongside docks, piers, or other boats.
Rudder: A moveable flat surface that is attached vertically at or near the stern for steering.
Sea anchor: An anchor that does not touch the bottom. Provides drag to hold the bow in the most
favorable position in heavy seas.
Scupper: An opening in the hull side or transom of the boat through which water on deck or in
the cockpit is drained overboard.
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Seacock: Safety valves installed just inside the thru-hull fittings and ahead of the piping or hose
running from the fittings.
Shaft Log: Pipe through which the propeller shaft passes.
Sheer: The uppermost edge of the hull.
Sling: A strap which will hold the boat securely while being lifted, lowered, or carried.
Slip: A boat's berth between two pilings or piers.
Sole: The deck of a cockpit or interior cabin.
Spring Line: A line that leads from the bow aft or from the stern forward to prevent the boat from
moving ahead or astern.
Starboard: The right side of a boat when facing the bow.
Steerageway: Sufficient speed to keep the boat responding to the rudder or drive unit.
Stem: The vertical portion of the hull at the bow.
Stern: The rear end of a boat.
Stow: To pack away neatly.
Stringer: Longitudinal members fastened inside the hull for additional structural strength.
Strut: Mounted to the hull which supports the propeller shaft in place.
Strut Bearing: See “cutlass bearing.”
Stuffing Box: Prevents water from entering at the point where the propeller shaft passes through
the shaft log.
Superstructure: Something built above the main deck level.
Swamps: When a boat fills with water from over the side.
Swimming Ladder: Much the same as the boarding ladder except that it extends down into the
water.
Taffrail: Rail around the rear of the cockpit.
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Thru-hull: A fitting used to pass fluids (usually water) through the hull surface, either above or
below the waterline.
Topsides: The side skin of a boat between the waterline or chine and deck.
Transom: A flat stern at right angles to the keel.
Travel Lift: A machine used at boat yards to hoist boats out of and back into the water.
Trim: Refers to the boat's angle or the way it is balanced.
Trough: The area of water between the crests of waves and parallel to them.
Twin-Screw Craft: A boat with two propellers on two separate shafts.
Underway: When a boat moves through the water.
Wake: Disrupted water that a boat leaves astern as a result of its motion.
Wash: The flow of water that results from the action of the propeller or propellers.
Waterline: The plane of a boat where the surface of the water touches the hull when it is afloat
on even keel.
Watertight Bulkhead: Bulkheads secured so tightly so as not to let water pass.
Wharf: A structure generally parallel to the shore.
Working Anchor: An anchor carried on a boat for most normal uses. Refers to the anchor used
in typical anchoring situations.
Windlass: A winch used to raise and lower the anchor.
Windward: Toward the direction from which the wind is coming.
Yacht Basin: A protected facility primarily for recreational small craft.
Yaw: When a boat runs off her course to either side.
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Appendix B:
MAINTENANCE LOG
Date
Hours
Dealer
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Service/Repairs
B-1
MAINTENANCE LOG
Date
B-2
Hours
Dealer
Service/Repairs
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MAINTENANCE LOG
Date
Hours
Dealer
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Service/Repairs
B-3
MAINTENANCE LOG
Date
B-4
Hours
Dealer
Service/Repairs
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MAINTENANCE LOG
Date
Hours
Dealer
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Service/Repairs
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APPENDIX C:
DEPARTMENT OF
TRANSPORTATION
U.S. COAST GUARD
C.G. 1865 (REV. 1/88)
BOATING ACCIDENT REPORT
FORM APPROVED
OMB NO.211-0010
The operator/owner of a vessel used for recreational purposes is required to file a report in writing whenever an accident results in: loss of life or disappearance
from a vessel, or an injury which requires medical treatment beyond first aid: or property damage in excess of $200 or complete loss of the vessel. Reports
in death and injury cases must be submitted within 48 hours. Reports in other cases must be submitted within 10 days. Reports must be submitted to reporting
authority in the state where the accident occurred. This form is provided to assist the operator in filing the required written report.
COMPLETE ALL BLOCKS (indicate those not applicable by “NA”)
NAME AND ADDRESS OF OPERATOR
AGE OF OPERATOR
OPERATOR’S EXPERIENCE
This type of boat
Other boat operating Exp.
[ ] Under 20 Hours
[ ] Under 20 Hours
[ ] 20 to 100 Hours
[ ] 20 to 100 Hours
[ ] 100 to 500 Hours
[ ] 100 to 500 Hours
[ ] Over 500 Hours
[ ] Over 500 Hours
DATE OF BIRTH
OPERATOR TELEPHONE NUMBER
OWNER TELEPHONE NO.
NAME AND ADDRESS OF OWNER
RENTED BOAT
[ ] YES
[ ] NO
FORMAL INSTRUCTION IN BOATING SAFETY
[ ] None
[ ] State
[ ] U.S. Power Squadrons
[ ] USCG Auxiliary
[ ] American Red Cross
[ ] Other (Specify)
NUMBER OF
PERSONS ON
BOARD
VESSEL NO.
(this vessel)
BOAT REGISTER. NO.
BOAT NAME
BOAT MAKE
BOAT MODEL
MFR HULL IDENTIFICATION NO.
TYPE OF BOAT
[ ] Open Motorboat
[ ] Cabin Motorboat
[ ] Auxiliary Sail
[ ] Sail (only)
[ ] Rowboat
[ ] Canoe
[ ] Other (Specify)
HULL MATERIAL
[ ] Wood
[ ] Aluminum
[ ] Steel
[ ] Fiberglass
[ ] Rubber/vinyl
[ ] Other (Specify)
ENGINE
[ ] Outboard
[ ] Inboard gasoline
[ ] Inboard diesel
[ ] Inboard-outdrive
[ ] Jet
[ ] Other (Specify)
PROPULSION
No. of engines
Horse Power (total)
Type of fuel
CONSTRUCTION
Length
Year built (boat)
DATE OF ACCIDENT
TIME
Has boat had a Safety Examination? [ ] Outboard [ ] NO
For current year?
[ ] YES [ ] NO
Year
Indicate whether
[ ] USCG Auxiliary Courtesy Marine Exam
[ ] State/local examination [ ] Other
ACCIDENT DATA
am
NAME OF BODY OF WATER
pm
NEAREST CITY OR TOWN
STATE
WEATHER
[ ] Clear
[ ] Cloudy
[ ] Fog
[ ] Rain
[ ] Snow
[ ] Hazy
WATER CONDITIONS
[ ] Calm (waves less than 6")
[ ] Choppy (waves 6" to 2')
[ ] Rough (greater than 6')
[ ] Strong Current
OPERATION AT TIME OF ACCIDENT
(Check all applicable)
[ ] Commercial Activity
[ ] Drifting
[ ] Cruising
[ ] At Anchor
[ ] Maneuvering
[ ] Tied to Dock
[ ] Approaching Dock
[ ] Fueling
[ ] Leaving Dock
[ ] Fishing
[ ] Water Skiing
[ ] Hunting
[ ] Racing
[ ] Shin Diving/
[ ] Towing
Swimming
[ ] Other (Specify)
[ ] Being Towed
LOCATION (Give location precisely)
COUNTY
TEMPERATURE
(Estimate)
Air
Water
TYPE OF ACCIDENT
(Check all applicable)
[ ] Grounding
[ ] Capsizing
[ ] Flooding
[ ] Sinking
[ ] Fire or explosion (fuel)
[ ] Fire or explosion
(Other than fuel)
[ ] Fallen Skier
[ ] Collision with Vessel
F°
F°
[ ] Collision with
Fixed Object
[ ] Collision with
Floating Object
[ ] Falls Overboard
[ ] Falls in boat
[ ] Hit by Boat or
Propeller
[ ] Other (Specify)
PERSONAL FLOTATION DEVICES (PFDS)
Was the boat adequately equipped with
Was the vessel carrying NON approved
COAST GUARD APPROVED FLOTATION
flotation devices?
[ ] Yes [ ] No
DEVICES?
[ ] Yes [ ] No
Were they accessible?
[ ] Yes [ ] No
Were they accessible?
[ ] Yes [ ] No
Were they used?
[ ] Yes [ ] No
Were they serviceable?
[ ] Yes [ ] No
If Yes, indicate kind.
Were they used by survivors? [ ] Yes [ ] No
What type? [ ] I, [ ] II, [ ] III, [ ] IV, [ ] V (specify)
Were PFD’s properly used?
[ ] Yes [ ] No
Adjusted
[ ] Yes [ ] No
Sized
[ ] Yes [ ] No
Lat
Long
WIND
[ ] None
[ ] Light (0 - 6mph)
[ ] Moderate (7 - 14 mph)
[ ] Strong (15 - 25 mph)
[ ] Storm (Over 25 mph)
VISIBILITY
DAY
NIGHT
[ ] Good
[]
[ ] Fair [ ]
[ ] Poor [ ]
WHAT INYOUR OPINION CONTRIBUTED TO THE
ACCIDENT (Check all applicable)
[ ] Weather
[ ] Alcohol use
[ ] Excessive speed
[ ] Drug use
[ ] No Proper Lookout [ ] Fault of Hull
[ ] Restricted Vision [ ] Fault of Machinery
[ ] Overloading
[ ] Fault of Equipment
[ ] Improper Loading [ ] Hunting
[ ] Racing
[ ] Operator Inexperience
[ ] Hazardous Waters [ ] Operator Inattention
[ ] Other (Specify)
PROPERTY DAMAGE
Estimated amount
This boat $
Other boat $
Other Property $
FIRE EXTINGUISHERS
Were they used? (If yes, list
Type(s) and number used.)
[ ] Yes [ ] No [ ] NA
Types:
DESCRIBE PROPERTY DAMAGE
NAME AND ADDRESS OF OWNER OF DAMAGED
PROPERTY
Include any comments of PFD’s under ACCIDENT DESCRIPTION on other side of form
3000 EXPRESS
C-1
BOATING ACCIDENT REPORT
If more than 3 fatalities and/or injuries, attach additional form(s)
DECEASED
NAME
ADDRESS
DATE OF
BIRTH
WAS VICTIM?
[ ] Swimmer
[ ] Non Swimmer
DEATH CAUSED BY
[ ] Drowning
[ ] Other
[ ] DISAPPEARANCE
WAS PFD WORN?
[ ] Yes
[ ] No
What Type?
NAME
ADDRESS
DATE OF
BIRTH
WAS VICTIM?
[ ] Swimmer
[ ] Non Swimmer
DEATH CAUSED BY
[ ] Drowning
[ ] Other
[ ] DISAPPEARANCE
WAS PFD WORN?
[ ] Yes
[ ] No
What Type?
NAME
ADDRESS
DATE OF
BIRTH
WAS VICTIM?
[ ] Swimmer
[ ] Non Swimmer
DEATH CAUSED BY
[ ] Drowning
[ ] Other
[ ] DISAPPEARANCE
WAS PFD WORN?
[ ] Yes
[ ] No
What Type?
NAME
ADDRESS
DATE OF
BIRTH
NATURE OF INJURY
MEDICAL TREATMENT
NAME
ADDRESS
DATE OF
BIRTH
NATURE OF INJURY
MEDICAL TREATMENT
NAME
ADDRESS
DATE OF
BIRTH
NATURE OF INJURY
MEDICAL TREATMENT
INJURED
ACCIDENT DESCRIPTION
DESCRIBE WHAT HAPPENED (Sequence of events. Include Failure of Equipment. If diagram is needed, attach separately. Continue on additional sheets
if necessary. Include any information regarding the involvement of alcohol and/or drugs in causing or contributing to the accident. Include any descriptive
information about the use of PFD's.)
Name of Operator
VESSEL NO. 2 (if more than 2 vessels, attach additional form (s)
Address
Boat Number
Boat Name
Telephone Number
Name of Owner
Address
Name
Address
Telephone Number
Name
Address
Telephone Number
Name
Address
Telephone Number
WITNESSES
WITNESSES
Address
SIGNATURE
QUALIFICATION (Check One)
[ ] Operator [ ] Owner [ ] Investigator [ ] Other
Telephone Number
Date Submitted
(do not use) - FOR REPORTING AUTHORITY REVIEW (use agency date stamp)
Causes based on (check one)
[ ] This report
[ ] Investigation and this report
[ ] Investigation
[ ] Could not be determined
Primary Cause of Accident
C-2
Name of Reviewing Office
Date Received
Secondary Cause of Accident
Reviewed By
3000 EXPRESS