OWNER'S MANUAL

OWNER'S

MANUAL

NOTE: Using modified motors with any less than 15 turns of wire exceeds the capacity of the electronic speed control and voids any warranty.

Carefully read through all instructions to familiarize yourself with the parts, construction techniques, and tuning tips outlined in this manual. Being able to grasp the overall design of your new Triple-XT racing truck before beginning the construction process will ensure a smooth assembly.

Take your time and pay close attention to detail. Keep this manual for future reference.

• Service Information: Electronics

(Motor/Radio/Speed Control)

(877) 504 - 0233

• Chassis (All non-electric) (909) 390-9595

Team Losi, 4710 E. Guasti Rd., Ontario, CA 91761 w ww.TeamLosi.com • [email protected]

P/N 800-0238

Visit www.modelflight.com.au

for more information and spare parts online.



Welcome Team Losi Triple-XT Sport Owner!

Thank you for choosing Team Losi and the Triple-XT Sport off-road racer. This kit benefits from Team Losi’s unequalled winning heritage as well as their World Champion design staff recognized as the leaders in innovative design and technical excellence. In fact, the Triple-XT platform that this ready-to-run was modeled after has won the ROAR

National Championship the last three years. The long hours of engineering, development, and track testing result in a race truck that is easier to drive, tune, and enjoy. To ensure trouble free enjoyment of your new Triple-XT Sport we suggest that you read through these instructions. Also check out the handy tech tips for additional tuning ideas.

Good luck, and thank you for choosing Team Losi.

Length: 16.195"

1. INTRODUCTION

TRIPLE-XT SPORT COMPLETED KIT DIMENSIONS

Front Width: 12.725" Rear Width: 12.875" ride will

Height: 5.505"

NOTES & SYMBOLS USED

Figure 1

This is a common figure number found at the beginning of each new illustration throughout the manual.

ß

Step 1. - Each step throughout the entire manual has a check box to the left of it. As you complete each step, mark the box with a check. If you need to take a break and return to building at a later time you will be able to locate the exact step where you left off.

*NOTE: This is a common note. It is used to call attention to specific details of a certain step in the assembly.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Even if you are familiar with

Team Losi kits, be sure and pay attention to these notes. They point out very important details during the assembly process. Do not ignore these notes!

&

This wrench designates a performance tip. These tips are not necessary, but can improve the performance of your

Triple-XT truck.

demanding tolerances. When screws are tightened to the point of being snug, the parts are held firmly in place. For this reason it is very important that screws not be overtightened in any of the plastic parts.

To ensure that parts are not lost during construction, it is recommended that you work over a towel or mat to prevent parts from rolling away.

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTES

1. Select an area for assembly that is away from the reach of small children. Some parts in this kit are small and can be swallowed

by children, causing choking and possible internal injury.

2. The shock fluid and greases supplied should be kept out of childrens' reach. They are not intended for human consumption!

3. Exercise care when using any hand tools, sharp instruments, or power tools during construction.

4. Carefully read all manufacturers' warnings and cautions for any glues, chemicals, or paints that may be used for assembly and operating purposes.

In illustrations where it is important to note which direction parts are facing, a helmet like this one will be included in the illustration. The helmet will always face the front of the car.

Any reference to the right or left side will relate to the direction of the helmet.

KIT/MANUAL ORGANIZATION

For your convenience, an actual-size hardware identification guide is included with each step. To check a part, hold it against the silhouette until the correct part is identified. In some cases extra hardware has been supplied for parts that may be easy to lose.

The molded parts in the Triple-XT Sport are manufactured to

i



TOOLS REQUIRED

Team Losi has supplied all necessary Allen wrenches and a special wrench that is needed for assembly and adjustments. The following common tools will also be required: Needle-nose pliers, regular pliers, hobby knife, scissors or other body cutting/trimming tools.

3/16", 1/4", and 3/8" nut drivers are optional.

RADIO/ELECTRICAL

The XXX-T Sport's radio layout is well proven. Your high-performance R/C center should be consulted regarding specific questions pertaining to radio/electrical equipment changes.

HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION

When in question, use the hardware identification guide in each step. For screws, the prefix number designates the screw size and number of threads per inch (i.e., 4-40 is #4 screw with 40 threads per inch). The second number or fraction designates the length of the screw. For cap-head and button-head screws, this number refers to the length of the threaded portion of the screw. For flat-head screws, this number refers to the overall length of the screw. Bearings and bushings are referenced by the inside diameter x outside diameter. Shafts and pins are referred to by diameter x length. Washers are described by inside diameter or the screw size that will pass through the inside diameter. E-clips are sized by the shaft diameter that they attach to.

MOTORS AND GEARING

The Triple-XT Sport includes an 88-tooth, 48-pitch spur gear. The overall internal drive ratio of the Triple-XT is 2.43:1. The pinion gear that is used will determine the final drive ratio. To calculate the final drive ratio, first divide the spur gear size by the pinion gear size.

For example, if you are using a 20-tooth pinion gear, you would divide 88 (spur gear size) by 20 (pinion gear size). 88/20 =4.4. This tells you that 4.4 is the external drive ratio. Next, multiply the internal drive ratio (2.43) by the external drive ratio (in this case 4.4).

2.43 x 4.4 = 10.692. This means that by using a 20-tooth pinion gear with the standard 88-tooth spur gear, the final drive ratio is

10.692:1.

Consult your high-performance shop for recommendations to suit your racing style and class. The chart below lists some of the more common motor types and a recommended initial gearing for that motor. Ratios can be adjusted depending on various track layouts, tire sizes, and battery types.

RECOMMENDED INITIAL GEARING FOR COMMON MOTORS

TYPE OF MOTOR PINION SPUR

24 o

Stock

15-Turn Modified

16-Turn Modified

17-Turn Modified

20

19

19

20

88

88

88

88

TABLE OF CONTENTS

1. INTRODUCTION ............................................................ i

Completed Kit Dimensions ........................................... i

Notes & Symbols ......................................................... i

Kit Manual Organization ............................................... i

Important Safety Notes ................................................ i

Tools Required ............................................................. ii

Radio/Electrical ........................................................... ii

Hardware Identification ................................................ ii

Recommended Gearing ............................................... ii

2. BAG A ........................................................................ 1-2

3. BAG B ........................................................................ 3-7

4. BAG C ...................................................................... 8-11

5. BAG D .................................................................... 12-19

6. BAG E .................................................................... 20-23

7. BAG F .......................................................................... 24

8. BAG G .................................................................... 25-29

9. Checklist Before Your First Run ................................ 30

10. Tips From the Team .............................................. 30-32

11. Spare Parts List .................................................... 33-35

12. Completed Setup Sheet ............................................. 36

Team Losi is continually changing and improving designs; therefore, the actual part may appear slightly different than the illustrated part. Illustrations of parts and assemblies may be slightly distorted to enhance pertinent details.

ii



BAG A

Figure 1

6

6

ß

Step 1. Place the servo saver bottom (1) over the servo saver post (2) and slide the servo saver bottom all the way against the hex at the opposite end. Be sure that the hex on the servo saver post (2) is inserted into the hex in the servo saver bottom (1).

ß

Step 2. Slide the servo saver top (3) down over the servo saver post (2) so that the 'V' area of the servo saver top (3) rests in the 'V' area of the servo saver bottom (1). The arm on the servo saver top (3) and the arm on the servo saver bottom (1) should point in opposite directions as shown in Figure 1.

ß

Step 3. Slide the servo saver spring (4) over the servo saver post (2) and push it into the recessed area of the servo saver top

(3). Install the servo saver spring cap (5) and thread the 6-40 locknut (6) onto the end of the servo saver post (2).

ß

Step 4. Tighten the 6-40 locknut (6) all the way down and then loosen it two full turns (e.g. 360 o x 2). This is a good starting point for the adjustment. Once assembly is complete, if you wish, the servo saver can be adjusted tighter or looser.

Figure 2

4

2

5

3

Figure 1

1

7 11

ß

Step 5. Insert a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the outer hex area in the servo saver bottom (1) and steering idler arm (8) as shown in Figure 2. Thread a 3/16" ball stud (11) through the outside hole in each arm, into the nuts (7), and tighten. Insert a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the hex area in the servo saver top (3). Thread a

3/16" ball stud (11) through the hole in the arm, into the nut (7), and tighten.

ß

Step 6. Insert a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the hex areas in the rear of the servo saver bottom (1) and the steering idler arm

(8) as shown in Figure 2. Thread a 3/16" ball stud (11) through the arms, into each nut (7), and tighten.

&

Once assembly of your new Triple-X is complete, you may notice that the tires toe in slightly as the suspension com-

Should you prefer to change this so that the tires do not toe in, you can add one ball stud washer under the ball studs on the outside of the servo saver assembly and steering idler arm. To accomplish this, you will want to replace the 3/16" ball studs with 1/4" ball studs.

Figure 3

ß

Step 7. Snap one end of the steering drag link (12) to the rear ball stud (11) on the servo saver bottom (3). Snap the other end to the rear ball stud (11) on the steering idler arm (8).

*NOTE: Be sure to snap the rod onto the correct ball studs as shown!

8

3

8

12

Figure 3

1



3

7

11

1

11

Figure 2

Figure 4

BAG A (Continued)

17

13 16

17

ß

Step 8. Insert a 3/32" x 3/16" plastic bushing (13) into the two large, angled holes in the bottom of the front kickplate (14).

Insert the other two bushings (13) into the two outer holes in the steering brace (15).

ß

Step 9. Insert a 3/32" x .930" hinge pin (16) through the hole in the steering idler arm (8) and center the pin (16) in the idler arm (8). Place the servo saver assembly and the steering idler arm (8) into the bushings (13) in the kickplate (14) so that the installed drag link is to the front as shown in Figure 4.

ß

Step 10. Place the steering brace (15) on top of the servo saver assembly and steering idler arm (8) ensuring that the bushings (13) slide over the pins.

ß

Step 11. Secure the steering brace (15) to the kickplate (14) using two 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws (17).

13

16

15

14

Figure 4

Figure 5

18

ß

Step 12. Install a threaded insert (18) into the top of each of the two forward holes in the main chassis (19). The inserts should be installed with the hex-side up as shown in Figure 5. Press the threaded inserts (18) all the way into the holes in the chassis (19), lining up the hex on the inserts (18) with the hex in the holes.

Figure 5

Figure 6

17

ß

Step 13. Attach the front kickplate (14) to the bottom of the main chassis (19). Align the four holes in the kickplate (14) with the four holes in the main chassis (19). Secure the kickplate (14) to the chassis (19) by threading two 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws

(17) through the forward holes and into the threaded inserts (18).

Thread two more 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws through the two rear holes of the kickplate (14) and into the chassis (19).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that the hex of the threaded insert remains seated in the hex area on top of the c h a s s i s .

19

Figure 6

2



17

18

19

14

BAG B

Figure 7

21 54

ß

Step 1. Position the front bulkhead (20) on top of the front kickplate (14) and main chassis (19) as shown in Figure 7. Secure the front bulkhead (20) to the chassis (19) by threading two 4-40 x 3/8" button-head screws (21) through the hole in the top of the bulkhead (20) and into the chassis (19).

&

There is a short thread-cutting screw included in the wrench bag. This screw can be used to tap threads in the holes in the main chassis. Pre-tapping these holes makes it easier to install the screws during assembly.

ß

Step 2. Secure the front kickplate (14) to the front bulkhead

(20) by threading a 4-40 x 3/8" flat-head screw (54) through the center hole in the front of the kickplate (14) and into the bulk-

Figure 8

Figure 7

14

19

21

54

20

23 25 44

ß

Step 3. Insert two 4-40 x 7/8" cap-head screws (23) — one on each side — through the second hole out in the top of the front shock tower (24). Secure the screws (23) to the shock tower (24) by threading a 4-40 nut (25) over each screw (23) and tightening.

&

Use the included Team Losi wheel wrench/nut-driver to secure the 4-40 nuts.

ß

Step 4. Press a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the hex area in the top, rear of each side of the front shock tower (24). Insert a 4-40 x 1/2" flat-head screw (44) into each of the two front body mounts

(56) from the side with the recess for the head of the screw (44)

ß

Step 5. Attach a front body mount (56) to the front of each side of the front shock tower (24) so that the posts point up as

56

7

23

24

25

44

Figure 8

3



BAG B (Continued)

Figure 9

9

17

26

ß

Step 6. Attach the front shock tower (24) to the front bulkhead (20) with four 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws (17). The screws

(17) thread into the top-most and bottom-most holes in the bulkhead (20). The center holes are not used.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The screws in the top of the shock tower must be pointing forward as shown in Figure 9.

ß

Step 7. Place a ball stud washer (9) over each of the two 3/8" ball studs (26). Thread a 3/8" ball stud (26) into the center hole on each side of the front bulkhead (20).

24

26

17

20

9

Figure 9

Figure 10

32

41

71

ß

Step 8. Insert a front axle (30) into each of the front spindles

[left (28), right (29)] as shown. The hole in the axle (30) should line up with the hole in the spindle (28), (29).

ß

Step 9. Attach the right spindle (29) to the right spindle carrier (34) by aligning the holes in each part and inserting a 1/8" x

1.250" hinge pin (71) from the bottom. Do not insert the pin all the way through both parts yet.

ß

Step 10. Insert a front spindle spacer (36) between the top of the spindle (29) and the spindle carrier (34) as shown in Figure

10. Once the spacer (36) is in place, insert the hinge pin (71) through the spacer (36) and the top of the spindle carrier (34).

ß

Step 11. Center the hinge pin (71) and secure it with two 1/

8" E-clips (41). With the hinge pin (71) still centered, thread a 5-

40 setscrew (32) into the back side of the axle (30) and tighten.

ß

Step 12. Repeat Steps 8-11 for the left spindle (28) and left spindle carrier (33).

30

29

Note: When replacing the

Carrier #34, this

shim must be used

36

32

Figure 10

4



34

71

41

BAG B (Continued)

Figure 11

7 10 26

ß

Step 13. Insert a 3/8" ball stud (26) into the middle hole on top of each spindle carrier (33), (34) from the front as shown, and tighten.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not overtighten the ball studs!

ß

Step 14 . Insert a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the hex area in the top of each spindle (28), (29). Thread a 1/4" ball stud (10) into the nut from the bottom of the spindle (28), (29) and tighten.

7

34

10

Figure 11

26

Figure 12

35

40 41

ß

Step 15. Attach the right spindle and carrier assembly to a front suspension arm (38) as shown in Figure 12. Note that the spindle arm faces the side of the suspension arm (38) with the shock mount holes (rear) and the ball stud (26) pointing forward.

Line up the holes in the spindle carrier (34) with the holes in the front arm (38), insert a 1/8“ x .960"" hinge pin (35) and attach a

1/8” E-clip (41) to both sides of the hinge pin (35).

ß

Step 16. Attach the arm (38) to the right side of the front pivot block (39) by inserting a 1/8" x 1.42" hinge pin (40), from the front, through the arm (38) and pivot block (39) as shown in

Figure 12.

ß

Step 17. Insert a 1/8" E-clip (41) in the groove in the rear of the hinge pin (40) only.

ß

Step 18. Repeat Steps 15-17 for the left spindle and carrier assembly and remaining front suspension arm (38).

ß

Step 19. Slide the front hinge pin brace (42) over the front of both inner hinge pins (40). The brace (42) should be installed so that the thin groove is to the top and faces the front as shown in

Figure 12. The E-clip grooves in both hinge pins (40) should be exposed in front of the brace (42). Secure the brace (42) by attaching a 1/8" E-clip (41) to the front of each hinge pin (40).

34

39

38

35

41

Figure 12

40

42

41

5



Figure 13

BAG B (Continued)

150

43

150

ß

Step 20. Hold the chassis assembly upside down. Place the front pivot block (39) over the front edge of the front kick plate

(14) as shown in Figure 14. The front edge of the front bulkhead

(20) should be positioned between the front pivot block (39) and the hinge pin brace (42).

ß

Step 21. While holding the front suspension assembly in place, position the front bumper (43) on the bottom of the front pivot block (39) so that the four holes in the bumper (43) are aligned with the four holes in the pivot block (39). The bumper

(43) should be attached as shown so that the edges curve towards the top of the chassis. Secure the bumper (43) and pivot block

(39) to the front bulkhead (20) and kick plate (14) by threading four 4-40 x 5/8" flat-head screws (150) through the bumper and pivot block and tightening.

14

20

Figure 14

39

46

45

45

46

ß

Step 22. Thread a plastic rod end (45) onto each end of a

2-14" turnbuckle (46). Tighten both rod ends (45) equally until the rod is the same length as the rod in Figure 14A. Make two of these camber link assemblies.

*NOTE: Each end of the turnbuckle is threaded opposite. One end has left-hand threads, the other right-hand threads. This allows the length of the rods, once installed, to be adjusted without removing them.

Figure 14

Figure 14A

Figure 13

Figure 15

20

ß

Step 23. Place a "foam thing" (47) over the ball studs (26) in each of the spindle carriers (33), (34) and the ball studs (10) in the front bulkhead (20). Next, attach one side of a camber link assembly to the ball stud (10) on the right side of the bulkhead

(20). Attach the other side of the camber link assembly to the ball stud (26) in the spindle carrier (34).

ß

Step 24. Attach the second camber link assembly to the left side of the truck.

&

Try to mount all of the camber links so that the threads adjust in the same direction. This allows for much easier adjust-

26

10

47

34

Figure 15

6



BAG B (Continued)

Figure 16

45

46

ß


2-1/4" turnbuckle (46). Tighten both rod ends (45) equally until the rod is the same length as the rod in Figure 16A. Make two of these tie-rod assemblies.


45

46

Figure 16

Figure 16A

Figure 17

ß

Step 26. Snap one end of a completed tie rod assembly to the ball stud (11) in the steering idler arm (8). Snap the other end to the ball stud (10) in the right spindle (29). Attach the other tie rod assembly to the ball studs in the servo saver assembly and the left spindle (28).

&

Once again, assure that all turnbuckles are mounted

8

11

Figure 17

10

29

7



BAG C

Figure 18

ß

Step 1. Insert a 1/8" x 1/4" washer (48) into the recessed area on each side of the rear pivot block (49).

ß

Step 2. Place one of the rear suspension arms (50) over the right side of the rear pivot block (49). Line up the holes in the arm (50) with the holes in the pivot block (49) and assemble the two parts by inserting an inner rear hinge pin (52) all the way through both parts. Install a 1/8" E-clip (41) to the rear end of the hinge pin (52).

ß

Step 3. Attach a 1/4" shock mount ball (122) to the inside hole of the shock mount bracket (51) with a 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screw (17) as shown in Figure 18. Secure the shock mount bracket

(51) to the front side of the rear suspension arm (50) with two

4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws (17).

41

17

IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that the shock mount bracket is attached correctly. The outside holes should be higher than the inside holes. The shock mount ball should be to the rear side of the bracket.

ß

Step 4. Repeat Steps 1-3 for the left suspension arm (50).

ß

Step 5. Slide the rear hinge pin brace (164) over the front of both inner hinge pins (52). Secure the brace (164) by attaching a

1/8" E-clip (41) to the front of each hinge pin (52).

ß

Step 6. Place a small anti-squat shim (165) under front of each side of the rear of the pivot block (49) as shown in Figure

18. Attach the rear pivot block (49) and shims (165) to the rear pivot plate (53) with four 4-40 x 3/8" flat-head screws (54).

&

Removing the shims results in 2 o anti-squat. Anti-squat is 4 o with the shims in place. See the anti-squat section of the tips.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that the pivot block is installed with the wider end to the rear as shown in Figure 18.

ß

Step 7. Install the rear pivot plate (53) so that the pivot plate

(53) is flush with the chassis (19). Make sure that the four holes in the chassis (19) line up with the holes in the pivot plate (53).

Secure the pivot plate (53) to the chassis (19) using four 4-40 x

3/8" flat-head screws (54).

Figure 19

19

164

54

48 54

17

51

17

122

122

52

49

48

165

53

Figure 18

25

55

23 25 26

23

ß

Step 8. Insert two 4-40 x 7/8" cap-head screws (23) — one on each side — through the second hole out on the top of the rear shock tower (55) as shown in Figure 19. Secure the screws (23) to the shock tower (55) by threading a 4-40 nut (25) over each screw

(23) and tightening.

& to secure the 4-40 nuts.

ß

Step 9. Thread a 3/8" ball stud (26) into the center hole on each side of the rear shock tower (55). Place a “foam thing” (47) over each of the two ball studs (26).

8

47

26



Figure 19

165

50

52

41

BAG C (Continued)

Figure 20

54 57 58

ß

Step 10. Place the rear shock tower (55) between the rear of the chassis (19) and the rear pivot block (49). The shock tower

(55) should sit flat against the rear pivot plate (53). Place a #4 washer (58) over two 4-40 x 1/2" cap-head screws (57). Secure the shock tower (55) to the chassis (19) by threading the two 4-40 x 1/2" cap-head screws (57), with washers (58) attached, through the tower (55) and into the chassis (19).

ß

Step 11. Secure the rear shock tower (55) to the rear pivot plate (53) by threading a 4-40 x 3/8" flat-head screw (54) through the pivot plate (53), from the bottom, and into the shock tower

(55).

57

58

19

49

Figure 20

54

Figure 21

53

17

ß

Step 12. Attach each of the dogbones (59) to a plastic universal yoke (60) by aligning the slot in the dogbone (59) with the groove in the universal yoke (60). Secure the parts with a 4-40 x

3/8" cap-head screw (17).

& be used on the threads of the 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws to help hold them in place.

17

60

59

Figure 21

Figure 22

61 63

ß

Step 13. Position a universal pivot (61) in one of the rear axles (62) so that the holes in both parts are aligned.

ß

Step 14. Using pliers, carefully press a 3/32" x 1/2" spirol pin (63) through the rear axle (62) and universal pivot (61) until the pin (63) extends evenly out both sides of the rear axle

(62).

&

The pin can be made to press in to the universal pivot tighter. This will ensure that the pin stays firmly in place. To do this, SLIGHTLY crimp the center of the pin with heavy-duty wire cutters. When inserting the pin, be careful not to smash the ends of the pin. This can cause the universal pivot to bind.

9

62

Figure 22



63

61

Figure 23

BAG C (Continued)

61

ß

Step 16. Using the small end of the metal Team Losi wrench

(64) supplied with your kit, pry the end of the plastic universal yoke (60) over the end of the pin in the universal pivot (61) so that the pins on the pivot (61) fit into the holes in the yoke

(60).

&

The axle and dogbone assembly should rotate freely.

If they do not, try lightly squeezing the sides of the plastic uni-

60

64

Figure 23

Figure 24

10

27 67

68

69

ß

Step 17. Thread a 1/4" ball stud (10) into the outer hole in the right rear hub (65), from the front (the side without the recessed area) as shown in Figure 24.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not overtighten the ball studs.

ß

Step 18. Place a "foam thing" (47) over the ball stud (10).

ß

Step 19. Press a 3/16" x 3/8" sealed bearing (27) into the inside of the right rear hub (65). Slide a rear axle (62) through the bearing (27) in the rear hub (65).

ß

Step 20. Slide an inner rear axle spacer (67) over the rear axle

(62) — from the out side — again st the insi de of the bearing (27). Place a second 3/16" x 3/8" bearing (27) over the rear axle (62) and press the bearing (27) into the outside of the rear hub

(65).

ß

Step 21. Place an outer rear axle spacer (68) over the rear axle

(62), against the outside bearing (27). The small side of the spacer (68) should be positioned next to the bearing (27).

ß

Step 22. Secure the rear axle (62) and the spacer (68) by inserting a 1/16" x 7/16" spirol pin (69) through the small hole in the rear axle

(62). The pin (69) should be centered in the rear axle (62).

ß

Step 23. Repeat Steps 17-22 for the left rear hub (66).

10

65

68

27

67

Figure 24

47

62

69

1 0



BAG C (Continued)

Figure 25

10

41

71

ß

Step 24. Place the right rear hub (65) between the outer rails of the right rear suspension arm (50). Be sure that the ball stud

(10) is towards the front. Position a rear hub spacer (70) between the hub (65) and the suspension arm (50) on each side of the hub

(65).

ß

Step 25. Insert an outer rear hinge pin (71) into the suspension arm (50), through each of the two spacers (70) and rear hub

(65). Secure the hinge pin (71) with two 1/8" E-clips (41).

ß

Step 26. Repeat Steps 24 and 25 for the left rear hub (66) and left rear suspension arm (50).

65

70

Note:

41

When replacing

the Hub #65, these

shims must be used

Figure 26

Figure 26A

50

71

Figure 25

72

45

ß


2-1/2" turnbuckle (72). Tighten both rod ends (45) equally until the rod is the same length as the one shown in Figure 26A. Make two of these rear camber link assemblies.


Figure 27

45

72

Figure 26

ß

Step 28. Attach one end of a rear camber link assembly from

Step 27 to the ball stud (10) in the right rear hub (65) and the other end to the ball stud (26) in the rear shock tower (55).

&

Remember to attach the turnbuckles so that the threads are in the same direction on all of your linkages.

55

10

65

Figure 27

1 1



BAG D

Figure 28

ß

Step 1. Locate the Hybrid Diff Nut (73).

73

Figure 29

76

75

58

75

76

ß

Step 2. Locate the 5/64" Allen wrench (74) supplied with the kit. Place the diff nut/carrier (73), nut side first, over the Allen wrench

(74).

ß

Step 3. Place the washer (58) over the wrench, next to the diff nut/ carrier (73). Then slide the spring (75) over wrench and up against the washer as shown in Figure 29.

ß

Step 4. Place the diff tube (76) over the wrench, large side first, so that it rests against the spring (75).

Figure 29

73

Figure 30

77

76

73

75

ß

Step 5. Insert all of the parts that are stacked on the wrench into one of the outdrive/diff halves (77). Line up the tabs on the diff nut/carrier (73) with the slots in the outdrive (77). Make certain that the diff tube (76) is pressed all the way into the outdrive/diff half (77), and that it is straight. There is a small shoulder on the diff tube (76) that should be flush with the outer surface of the outdrive (77).

Figure 31

Figure 30

79

79

ß

Step 6. Apply a small amount of diff grease (clear) (78) to the outside ridge of the outdrive/diff half (77). Attach a diff washer

(79) to the outdrive (77) by lining up the flat section of the washer

(79) with the flat section of the outdrive (77).

*NOTE: Only a small amount of grease is needed. It is only there to hold the diff washer in place.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not glue the diff washers to the outdrive/diff halves. Doing so may not allow the washers to mount flat.

77

SMALL AMOUNT

OF GREASE

Figure 31

1 2



74

BAG D (Continued)

Figure 32

80 82

ß

Step 7. Insert a 5mm x 8mm bearing (80) into the center of the diff gear (81).

ß

Step 8. Press a 3/32" carbide diff ball (82) into each of the small holes in the diff gear (81).

IMPORTANT NOTE: There are two sets of diff balls in Bag D. Be certain to use the slightly larger balls that are packaged alone (12 total) in Figure 32, Step 8. There is a second set of eight 5/64" balls packaged with washers in the bag. These balls will be used in Figure 35.

81

Figure 33

82

ß

Step 9. Apply a fairly heavy coat of clear diff grease (78) to the exposed side of the diff washer (79). Carefully place the diff gear (81) over the diff tube (76) so that the diff balls (82) and diff gear (81) rest against the diff washer (79).

IMPORTANT NOTE: It is a good idea to hold the diff nut carrier in place so the diff tube is not pushed into the outdrive/diff half when the gear is pushed over it.

76

GREASE

80

82

GREASE BOTH

SIDES

Figure 32

81

79

Figure 33

Figure 34

83

83 80

ß

Step 10. Insert a 5mm x 8mm bearing (80) into the second outdrive/diff half (77). Make sure that the bearing (80) is pushed all the way into the outdrive (77). A pencil or the handle of a hobby knife can be used to push the bearing (80) into place.

ß

Step 11. Apply a slight amount of clear diff grease (78) to the

1/4" x 5/16" shim (83). Insert the shim (83) into the outdrive/diff half (77) next to the 5mm x 8mm bearing (80). Make sure that the shim (83) is flat against the bearing (80). Be extra careful not to

bend this shim!

*NOTE: Only a small amount of grease is needed. It is only needed to hold the shim in place next to the bearing.

1 3

77

Figure 34



80

BAG D (Continued)

Figure 35

84

85

86

88

ß

Step 12. Locate the diff adjusting screw (84) and place the foam thrust bearing seal (85) over the shoulder of the screw (84).

ß

Step 13. Place one of the 3mm x 8mm thrust bearing washers (86) over the diff screw (84).

*NOTE: The thrust bearing washers are packaged in a small bag along with the eight 5/64" thrust bearing balls.

ß

Step 14. Grease the thrust washer (86) well with white thrust bearing/assembly grease (87) and place the eight 5/64" thrust bearing balls (88) on top of the washer (86), around the diff screw

(84). Apply more white thrust bearing/assembly grease (87) to the tops of the thrust bearing balls (88). Place the second thrust washer (86) over the screw (84) and against the thrust bearing balls (88).

ß

Step 15. Very carefully insert the diff screw (84), with the thrust bearing assembly installed, into the outdrive (77). Be very careful not to bend or pinch the shim (83) while inserting the diff screw (84). Pull the threaded end of the diff screw (84) until the thrust bearing assembly rests against the shim (83) and bearing

(80) inside of the outdrive (77).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that all eight thrust bearing balls remain in place between the two washers, around the diff screw.

Figure 36

86

GREASE

84

Figure 35

88

85

77

79

79

ß

Step 16. Locate the smallest of the Allen wrenches (74) and place it through the slot in the outdrive/diff half (77) containing the diff screw (84). Slide the wrench all the way against the screw

(84). By handling the outdrive/diff half (77) with the wrench inserted, the diff screw (84) will be held in place while finishing assembly of the differential.

ß

Step 17. Apply a small amount of clear diff grease (78) to the outer ridge of the outdrive (77). Install the remaining diff washer

(79), again lining up the flat sections of the outdrive/diff half (77) with the flat sections in the washer (79). Apply a fairly heavy coat of grease (78) to the exposed side of the diff washer (79).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not glue the diff washers to the outdrive/diff halves. Doing so may not allow the washers to mount flat.

1 4

84

77

74

Figure 36



SMALL AMOUNT

OF GREASE

Figure 37

BAG D (Continued)

77

ß

Step 18. While holding the outdrive/diff half (77) with the

Allen wrench inserted, carefully place the two outdrive/diff halves

(77) together.

ß

Step 19. Make sure that the slot in the diff screw (84) is lined up with the slot in the outdrive/diff half (77) and that the Allen wrench is inserted in the slot in the diff screw (84).

ß

Step 20. Hold the diff so that the outdrive/diff half (77) with the diff nut carrier (73) is pointing up. Slowly turn the top diff half clockwise to thread the diff screw (84) into the 4-40 mini locknut (7) in the diff nut carrier (73). Thread the two halves together until the screw just starts to snug up.

*NOTE: If the screw will not thread into the nut, make sure that the nut carrier is pushed all the way into the outdrive/diff half.

&

When tightening the diff, tighten the screw a little and then “work” the diff a little. Then tighten the diff a little more and “work” the diff again. Continue this until the diff is tight.

This will ensure proper seating of all the parts in the diff assembly.

ß

Step 21. Tighten the diff until the gear (81) cannot be turned while both of the outdrives (77) are being held. Final diff adjustment should be made after completion of the car.

Figure 38

84

Figure 37

89

ß

Step 22. Thread the 4-40 x 1" setscrew (89) all the way into the threaded side of the slipper shaft (90). Make sure that the setscrew (89) is TIGHT!

*NOTE: Some top gear/slipper shaft assemblies may be pre-assembled from the factory.

&

A small amount of liquid thread-lock should be used to help to hold the setscrew securely in place. If your slipper shaft was pre-assembled at the factory, thread-lock compound

Figure 39

90

Figure 38

93

91

93

ß

Step 23. Press the 1/16" x 5/16" spirol pin (91) into the small hole in the slipper shaft (90) so that it extends evenly from both sides of the shaft (90).

ß

Step 24. Slide the top gear (92) over the slipper shaft (90) from the side opposite the setscrew (89). Align the groove in the gear (92) with the pin (91) and slide the gear (92) over the pin

(91).

ß

Step 25. Secure the gear (92) to the shaft (90) by inserting a

3/16" C-clip (93) into the groove in the slipper shaft (90).

1 5

92

91

Figure 39



73

89

90

81

Figure 40

BAG D (Continued)

27 95

ß

Step 26. Insert a 3/16" x 3/8" sealed bearing (27) into the top bearing seat of the left gearbox half (94).

ß

Step 27. Insert a 1/2" x 3/4" bearing (95) into the lower bearing seat of the left gearbox half (94).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Never allow the gearbox halves to come into direct contact with any type of motor spray. The material used on these parts was selected with performance in mind, and some motor sprays may damage the parts.

27

94

95

Figure 40

Figure 41

17 27 95 98

ß

Step 28. Place the motor plate (96) against the outside of the right gearbox half (97) by aligning the hole in the motor plate

(96) with the top shaft bearing housing in the right gearbox half

(97) as shown in Figure 41.

ß

Step 29. Rotate the motor plate (96) so that the screw holes in the motor plate (96) line up with the screw holes in the gearbox half (97). Secure the motor plate (96) to the gearbox half (97) by threading a 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screw (17) through the hole near the center of the gearbox half (97) — from the inside — into the hole in the motor plate (96) and tightening.

ß

Step 30. Insert a 3/16" x 3/8" sealed bearing (27) into the top bearing seat of the right gearbox half (97). Carefully push the bearing (27) all the way into the bearing seat using a pencil or the handle of a hobby knife. Care should be taken not to damage the seals on the bearing (27).

ß

Step 31. Insert a 1/2" x 3/4" bearing (95) into the lower bearing seat of the right gearbox half (97).

ß

Step 32. Press, and lightly tap, the idler gear shaft (98), into the hole in the center of the right gearbox half (97).

96

Figure 41

95

1 6



97

27

17

98

BAG D (Continued)

Figure 42

99

100

ß

Step 33. Slide the larger of the two top shaft spacers (99) over the slipper shaft (90), from the side with the setscrew, and against the top gear (92).

ß

Step 34. Insert the slipper shaft (90), threaded side first, through the bearing (27) in the right gearbox half (97).

ß

Step 35. Insert a 1/8" x 3/8" bearing (100) into each side of the idler gear (101). Place the idler gear (101) over the idler gear shaft (98).

ß

Step 36. Insert the differential assembly into the 1/2" x 3/4" bearing (95) in the right gearbox half (97). Insert the differential diff nut carrier (73) side first.

*NOTE: Align the teeth on all gears when installing the differential.

97

95

98

101

Figure 42

27

Figure 43

99

92

100

102

103

ß

Step 37. Apply a thin coat of white assembly grease (87) along the inside edge of the right gearbox half (97). This will help seal the gearbox once it is assembled.

ß

Step 38. Carefully place the left gearbox half (94) over the assembled right gearbox half (97).

ß

Step 39. Thread the 2-56 x 5/8" cap-head screw (102) into the lower, forward hole in the transmission housing from the left side.

ß

Step 40. Insert a 4-40 x 1-1/8" cap-head screw (103) into each of the two rear holes in the left gearbox half (94) and thread them into the motor plate (96) as shown in Figure 43.

IMPORTANT NOTE: The top, forward hole in the gearbox halves remains open at this point. This hole will be used to attach the gearbox to the rear shock tower.

97

96

94

Figure 43

102

1 7



103

BAG D (Continued)

Figure 44

107 108 109 110

ß

Step 41. Slide the slipper back plate (104) over the slipper shaft (90), aligning the flat sections on the slipper shaft (90) with the flat sections of the back plate (104).

ß

Step 42. Place the slipper pad (105) on one side of the spur gear (106) and align the notches on the spur gear (106) with the notches on the slipper pad (105).

ß

Step 43. Place the spur gear (106), pad side first, over the slipper shaft (90). The slipper pad (105) should rest against the slipper back plate

(104).

*NOTE: Ensure that the slipper pad remains indexed in the spur gear.

ß

Step 44. Install the second slipper pad (105) to the exposed side of the spur gear (106). Again, align the notches on the spur gear

(106) with the notches on the slipper pad (105).

ß

Step 45. Place the second slipper back plate (104) over the slipper shaft (90) so that the large, flat surface of the back plate (104) rests against the slipper pad (105).

ß

Step 46. Slide the slipper spacer (107), long side first, onto the shaft (90) and against the outer slipper back plate (104).

ß

Step 47. Place the silver slipper spring (108) over the shaft (90), followed by the spring retaining washer (109) and secure with the

4-40 aluminum locknut (110).

IMPORTANT NOTE: Before tightening the nut, check to see that the slipper pads are properly aligned with the spur gear on both sides. If not, align them before proceeding.

ß

Step 48. Tighten the 4-40 locknut (110) all the way down, and then back it off four full turns (e.g., 360 o

x 4). This is a good starting point for adjustment. Final adjustment can be made later.

90

104

105

106

105

104

107

108

109

110

Figure 44

1 8



Figure 45

BAG D (Continued)

21

97

21

ß

Step 49. Place the motor guard (111) over the rear of the assembled transmission as shown in Figure 45.

ß

Step 50. Secure the top of the motor guard (111) to the top of the transmission by threading a 4-40 x 3/8" button-head screw

(21) through each of the two holes in the motor guard (111) and into the gearbox halves (94), (97).

94

111

Figure 45

Figure 46

54 58

112

ß

Step 51. Place the assembled chassis on a flat table so that the rear suspension arms (50) are flat and the chassis (19) is flat on the table. This will make installing the transmission a little easier.

ß

Step 52. Insert the dogbones (59) into each of the outdrive/ diff halves (77) and place the transmission into the rear pivot block (49). Push the transmission forward so that the top, center portion of the transmission fits between the tabs on the rear shock tower (55).

ß

Step 53. Hold the rear arms (50) up so that the dogbones

(59) stay in place, and turn the truck over — holding the transmission in place while doing so. Align the two holes in the bottom, rear of the transmission housing with the two holes in the rear of the pivot plate (53).

ß

Step 54. Apply a small amount of white assembly grease

(87) to each of the two 4-40 x 3/8" flat-head screws (54). Thread the screws (54) through the two holes in the back of the rear pivot plate (53), through the motor guard (111), and into the gearbox halves (94), (97).

ß

Step 55. Place a #4 washer (58) over the 4-40 x 1-1/2" caphead screw (112). Thread the screw (112) through the hole in the left side of the rear shock tower (55), through both gearbox halves

(94), (97), and into the motor plate (96).

*NOTE: In order to properly align all parts, it may be necessary to pull the transmission forward slightly while inserting the screw.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Ensure that the screw is threaded into the motor plate.

1 9

19

112

58

59

50

55

49

54

53

77

Figure 46



111

BAG E

Figure 47

113 115

ß

Step 1. Place one shock O-ring (113) into the cartridge body

(114), making sure that the O-ring (113) sits flat in the bottom of the cartridge body (114).

ß

Step 2. Insert the cartridge spacer (115) into the cartridge body (114) followed by a second O-ring (113).

ß

Step 3. Once the second O-ring (113) is inserted, and is flush with the top of the cartridge body (114), press the cartridge cap

(116) onto the cartridge body (114).

ß

Step 4. Make four cartridge assemblies.

*NOTE: Cartridges in some kits may be pre-assembled at the factory.

113

114

Figure 47

116

115

Figure 48

118 119

118 119

ß

Step 5. Place a drop of shock fluid (117) on the grooved end of each shock shaft [front (118), rear (119)] and slide a cartridge, hex end first, down the shock shaft (118), (119) toward the threads as shown in Figure 48.

Figure 48

2 0



BAG E (Continued)

Figure 49

122

ß

Step 6. Using needle-nose pliers, or small vise grips, grasp the front shock shaft (118) between the grooves and thread a shock end (120) onto the shaft (118). Thread the shock end (120) all the way onto the shaft (118) until the threads stop.

ß

Step 7. Repeat Step 6 for the second front shaft (118) and two rear shock shafts (119).

ß

Step 8. Carefully snap a 1/4" shock mount ball (122) into each of the shock ends (120) attached to the shorter, front shock shafts (118) only.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not insert 1/4" balls into the rear shock ends (attached to the longer shafts). These balls are already attached to the rear suspension arms.

122

118

120

Figure 49

Figure 50

41

118

ß

Step 9. Snap a 1/8" E-clip (41) into the groove closest to the cartridge on both rear shock shafts (119).

ß

Step 10. Before installing the E-clip (41) to the front shock shafts (118) — the shorter of the two lengths — slide a .050" shock spacer (121) over the shaft (118) and next to the cartridge. Once the spacers (121) are in place, snap a 1/8" E-clip (41) into the groove closest to the cartridge on both front shock shafts (118).

*NOTE: The shock spacers are only used on the front shock shafts.

ß

Step 11. Slide a #55 (orange) shock piston (123) onto each of the two front sock shafts (118) — the shorter of the two lengths — until the piston (123) rests against the E-clip (41). Secure the pistons (123) to the shafts (118) with a second E-clip (41).

*NOTE: The orange, #55 pistons are used on the front (short) shock shafts. The red, #56 pistons are used on the rear (long) shock shafts.

ß

Step 12. Slide a #56 (red) shock piston (124) onto each of the rear shock shafts (119) until it rests against the E-clip (41). Secure the pistons (124) to the shafts (119) with a second E-clip (41).

2 1

121

123

41

Figure 50



119

119

124

BAG E (Continued)

Figure 51

ß

Step 13. Match the short, front shock bodies (125) to the short, front shafts (118), and the long, rear shock bodies (126) to the long, rear shafts (119).

ß

Step 14. Fill the shock body (125), (126) with shock fluid

(127) up to the bottom of the threads inside the shock body (125),

(126).

ß

Step 15. Insert the shaft assembly with the cartridge against the shock piston (123), (124). Slowly tighten the cartridge about two full turns only. With the cartridge still slightly loose, slowly push the shock shaft (118), (119) into the shock body (125), (126).

This will bleed the excess fluid out of the shock. Once the shaft

(118), (119) is all the way in, tighten the shock cartridge the rest of the way.

*NOTE: Be sure to match the front shock shafts with the front shock bodies.

ß

Step 16. Now, with the shaft (118), (119) still all the way in, secure the cartridge by tightening it with pliers or a wrench approximately an additional 1/8 turn. There should be no air in the shock as you push the shaft (118), (119) in and out. If there is, the shock needs more fluid. If the shock does not compress all the way, the shock has too much fluid in it.

*NOTE: If leaking persists around the outside, tighten the cartridge a little more.

ß

Step 17. Repeat Steps 14-16 for all four shocks.

Figure 52

118

119

123

124

126

125

Figure 51

130

17

17

129 131

ß

Step 18. Snap a shock spring cup (128) onto each of the four shafts (118), (119) and down around the shock end (120).

ß

Step 19. Slide a red, front shock spring (129) down over each of the two front shocks so that the spring rests on the spring cup

(128).

ß

Step 20. Insert a 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screw (17) into the larger hole of each of two shock collars (130) and thread the screw into the smaller hole.

ß

Step 21. With the collar (130) loose, slide it down over the top of each shock body (125) and against the spring (129). Tighten the collar (130) to hold it in place.

*NOTE: Do not overtighten!

ß

Step 22. Repeat Steps 18-21 for the rear shocks using the pink, rear springs (131).

118 119

125 126

128

127

120

Figure 52

2 2



BAG E (Continued)

Figure 53

110

ß

Step 23. Pick up your truck, making sure that the dogbones

(59) stay in the outdrives (77).

ß

Step 24. Attach the bottom of a rear shock (longer of the two sizes of shocks) to the right rear suspension arm (50) by snapping the shock bottom (120) onto the shock mount ball (122) that is attached to the rear shock mount bracket (51) on the right rear arm (50).

ß

Step 25. Slide a short shock mount bushing (132), large side first, over the screw (23) on the right side of the rear shock tower

(55).

ß

Step 26. Place the top of the shock body (126) over the shock mount bushing (132). Secure the shock to the tower (55) by threading a 4-40 locknut (110) onto the shock mount screw (23).

*NOTE: Before attaching the top of the shock, make sure that the dogbone is in place in the outdrive.

ß

Step 27. Repeat Steps 24 through 26 for the left rear shock.

122

120

126

50

132

51

23

110

Figure 53

Figure 54

ß

Step 28. Insert the shock end (120) of a front shock into the shock mounting area of the right front suspension arm (38) and line up the hole in the shock mount ball (122) with the outside hole in the arm (38).

ß

Step 29. Secure the shock to the front arm (38) by threading a 4-40 x 1/2" cap-head screw (57) all the way into the arm (38) from the rear.

ß

Step 30. Slide a long shock mount bushing (133), large side first, over the screw (23) on the right side of the front shock tower

(24).

ß

Step 31. Place the top of the shock body (125) over the shock mount bushing (133) on the front shock tower (24). Secure the shock to the tower (24) by threading a 4-40 locknut (110) onto the shock mount screw (23).

ß

57

110

Step 32. Repeat Steps 28-31 for the left front shock.

133

125

110

Figure 54

122

57

2 3



BAG F

Figure 55

27 67

139

140

ß

Step 1. Inspect the inside of the tires [front (134), rear (135)] for any excess material. If present, trim excess rubber to ensure proper seating of the tire on the wheel [front (136), rear (137)]. During tire assembly, make sure that all lettering faces to the outside of the wheel.

*NOTE: Do not set tires on furniture as they may leave permanent stains.

ß

Step 2. Insert a foam tire liner (138) into each of the front tires (134). Pull the front tires (134) over the front wheels (136) and squeeze the tires (134) to properly seat them into the grooves in the wheels (136). Make certain that the foam liners (138) are not pinched between the tires (134) and the wheels (136).

ß

Step 3. Insert a foam tire liner (138) into each of the rear tires (135). Pull the rear tires (135) over the rear wheels (137) and squeeze the tires (135) to properly seat them into the grooves in the wheels (137). Make certain that the foam liners (138) are not pinched between the tires (135) and the wheels (137).

ß

Step 4. The tires (134), (135) must be glued to the wheels (136), (137). This can be done by using a fast-curing superglue or cyanoacrylate glue available at your hobby shop. Be sure to follow the manufacturers' warnings on the bottle.

& purpose.

Team Losi Tire Glue (A-7880) is the best glue available for gluing R/C car tires. This glue was produced specifically for this

IMPORTANT NOTE: Allow the glue to dry thoroughly before continuing. Read and follow adhesive manufacturers' safety warnings regarding use.

ß

Step 5. Press a 3/16" x 3/8" bearing (27) into the inside of each front wheel (136). Place the wheel (136) over the front axle (14) so the flat surface faces the outside. Slide an inner axle spacer (67) over the front axle (30), next to the inside bearing (27) so that the spacer (67) is positioned in the center of the wheel (136). Press the remaining 3/16" x 3/8" bearings (27) into the outside of the wheels (136).

ß

Step 6. Place a 3/16" x .015" shim (139) over each of the front axles (30), next to the outside bearing (27). Secure the front wheels (136) by threading a 10-32 locknut (140) onto each front axle (30) and tightening.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Do not overtighten the front wheel nuts. The front tires should rotate freely.

ß

Step 7. Mount the rear wheels (137) to the rear axles (62) by lining up the pin (69) in the rear axle (62) with the groove in the rear wheel (137) and pushing the wheel (137) all the way onto the axle (62).

ß

Step 8. Secure the rear wheels (137) by attaching 10-32 locknuts (140) to the rear axles (62) and tightening.

134

138

27

27

67

139

140

136

137

Figure 55

140

2 4



138

135

BAG G

Figure 56

58

141 143

ß

Step 1. Attach the motor (not included) to the motor plate (96) using two 3mm x 8mm cap-head screws (141) and #4 washers

(58). Do not tighten the screws yet.

ß

Step 2. Attach the pinion gear (not included) to the motor shaft, adjust gear mesh and tighten the motor screws (141).

*NOTE: The gears need some backlash in order to function properly.

ß

Step 3. Locate the gear cover (142) and, if it isn't already trimmed, cut the back side of it along the trim line as shown. If not already present, drill two 1/8" mounting holes in the gear cover (142) at the two locations marked with dimples.

ß

Step 4. Place the trimmed gear cover (142) over the motor plate (96) and secure it with two 4-40 x 1/8" button-head screws

(143) through the two open holes in the motor plate (96).

ß

Step 5. Insert gear cover plug (144) into the large hole in the gear cover (142).

96

142

143

58

141

Figure 56

144

Figure 57

11

9

7 11

ß

Step 6. Using Table 57B (on the following page), determine which servo arm (145) is required for your servo. If your particular servo is not listed, try using the arm recommended for another servo made by the same manufacturer.

ß

Step 7. Insert a 4-40 mini locknut (7) into the hex area of the servo arm (145). Thread a 3/16" ball stud (11) through the hole in the arm (145), into the locknut (7), and tighten.

ß

Step 8. Plug the servo into the radio system’s receiver (not

included). Make sure that there is power to the receiver, and turn the transmitter on followed by the receiver. Be sure that the trim settings for the steering on your transmitter are set to the center.

With the radio system still turned on, attach the servo arm (145) to the output shaft so that the arm is one spline off center in the direction shown in Figure 57A. Secure the arm (145) with the servo arm screw supplied with the servo.

Figure 57A

2 5



Figure 57

145

7

BAG G (Continued)

Note: If you wish to use Futaba

or HiTech Radios you will need LOSA1620

*Note: Posts are not to scale.

Table 57A

Figure 58

Table 57B

17

58

ß

Step 9. Use Tables 57A and 57B to determine how the servo mounting posts (146) should be attached to the servo (not in-

cluded).

&

Trim any flashing from the pins on the mounting posts so that they will seat all the way into the holes in the chassis brace and chassis.

ß

Step 10. Place a #4 washer (58) over each of the four

4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws (17) and attach the servo posts (146) to the servo by threading a screw (17) through the upper and lower holes in each post (146). Do not tighten the screws (17) yet! Just snug them up so that the posts are held in place, but can still be moved from side to side with a little resistance. The screws

(17) will be tightened after the servo is installed so that the posts

146

Figure 58

2 6



58

17

BAG G (Continued)

Figure 59

17

ß

Step 11. Install the servo into the chassis (19) as shown in

Figure 59. Insert the pin on the left servo post (146) into the hole in the chassis (19). Move the servo and posts (146) slightly until both the left and right posts (146) are inserted in the holes in the chassis (19).

ß

Step 12. Place the chassis brace (147) on top of the servo.

The pins from both servo mounting posts (146) should fit into the holes on the bottom of the chassis brace (147). If they do not, move the posts (146) slightly until the pins fit into the holes.

ß

Step 13. Remove both the servo and the chassis brace (147) from the car. While holding the brace (147) in place, tighten the top two screws (21), followed by the bottom two screws (21).

Holding the brace (147) in place will help keep the posts (146) from moving while tightening the screws (21).

*NOTE: The servo should be as close to centered between the two posts as possible

ß

Step 14. Reinstall the servo and brace (147) to the chassis

(19). Ensure that the pins on both sides of the servo posts are in their respective holes and secure the brace (147) to the chassis

(19) with four 4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws (17).

Figure 60

19

146

17

Figure 59

147

149

148

17

148 149

ß

Step 15. Thread a short plastic rod end (148) onto each end of the 4-40 x 5/8" threaded rod (149).

ß

Step 16. Refer to Table 57B to determine the appropriate rod length for the servo that is installed. Tighten both sides equally until the rod is the same length as the one shown in Figure 60A or 60B.

Figure 61

Figure 60A

Figure 60

Figure 60B

ß

Step 17. Attach one end of the rod to the ball stud (11) in the servo arm (145) and the other to the ball stud (11) in the servo saver as shown in Figure 61.

11

145

Figure 61

2 7



BAG G (Continued)

Figure 62

155

ß

Step 18. Place one of the battery spacing foams (152) into the recessed area in the rear of the chassis (19). The foam (152) should be positioned against the rear shock tower (55). Place the other battery spacing foam (152) in the front of the battery compartment, against the forward rib of the chassis (19).

ß

Step 19. Remove the backing tape from the battery strap foam strip (153) and attach it to the bottom side of the battery hold-down strap (154).

IMPORTANT NOTE: The battery strap can be mounted in one of two ways. The different offset will accommodate different styles of battery packs. If you will be running matched-type cells, or individual cells laid out side-by-side, the foam strip should be attached to the side of the strap with ribs.

The foam should be positioned between these ribs. If, however, you are using a pre-assembled stick pack, the foam strip should be attached to the side of the strap opposite the ribs.

ß

Step 20. Once the battery pack (not included) is installed between the two battery spacing foams (152), the battery strap

(154) will hold the batteries in place. The battery strap (154) fits under the rear "bridge" of the chassis (19), between the two ribs on the bottom, and fits over the post on the front chassis brace

(147). Secure the strap (154) to the post with a body clip (155).

Figure 63

ß

Step 21. Cut a piece of two-sided tape (156) to the same size as the bottom of the receiver (not included). Peel one side of the backing off and stick the tape (156) it to the bottom of the receiver.

ß

Step 22. Make sure that the area on the right side of the chassis (19) is clean. Wipe this area off with a clean cloth or rag.

*NOTE: Rubbing alcohol can be used to clean any oily residue that may be present on the chassis or receiver. Allow the alcohol to dry before applying the two-sided tape.

ß

Step 23. Peel the backing off of the two-sided tape (156) and install the receiver to the right side of the chassis (19) with the antenna wire exiting the receiver towards the front of the truck as shown in Figure 63.

ß

Step 24. Run the antenna wire forward to the antenna post on the chassis (19). Run the wire into the small hole in the bottom of the post, and up through the top of the post.

ß

Step 25. Slide the antenna wire through the antenna tube

(157) (a small drop of oil in the tube will make this easier) so that the wire comes out the other end of the tube (157).

ß

Step 26. While pulling the wire through the antenna tube

(157), slide the antenna tube (157) down and push it firmly into the antenna mounting post on the main chassis (19).

ß

Step 27. Fold the wire down over the antenna tube (157) and place the antenna cap (158) over the tube (157) and excess wire.

*NOTE: If antenna wire is shorter than the tube, remove the tube and cut off enough of the tube so that the wire will extend about 3/4" past the end of the tube.

2 8

Figure 63

153

154

55

158

Figure 62

157

152

19



BAG G (Continued)

Figure 64

ß

Step 28. Cut a piece of two-sided tape (156) to the same size as the bottom of the speed control (not included). Peel one side of the backing off and stick the tape (156) to the bottom of the speed control.

ß

Step 29. Make sure that the area on the left side of the chassis (19) is clean. Wipe this area off with a clean cloth or rag.

*NOTE: Rubbing alcohol can be used to clean any oily residue that may be present on the chassis or receiver. Allow the alcohol to dry before applying the two-sided tape.

ß

Step 30. Peel the backing off of the two-sided tape (156) and install the speed control to the left side of the chassis (19) as shown in Figure 64.

ß

Step 31. Run the wire from the speed control through the slot in the left rail on the chassis (19), across the center of the chassis (19), and through the slot in the right rail of the chassis

(19).

ß

Step 32. Plug the speed control wire into the channel 2 slot in the receiver. Plug the wire from the servo into the channel 1 slot in the receiver.

Figure 65

Figure 64

155

ß

Step 33. Trim the body (159) along the trim lines as shown in Figure 65.

ß

Step 34. Make five 1/4"-diameter holes in the locations marked with dimples at the front, rear, and roof of the body

(159). These will be the body mounting and antenna tube holes.

ß

Step 35. Remove the spoiler from the rear section of the body by cutting it out along the trim lines. Attach the spoiler to the rear of the body with a piece of two-sided tape (156).

ß

Step 36. Install the body (159) onto the rolling chassis and secure it with body clips (155) through the posts (56) on the front shock tower (24), and through the posts on the rear shock tower

(55).

Figure 65

Finishing the Body

BODY PAINTING

Prepare the Lexan body shell for painting by washing it thoroughly with warm water and liquid detergent. Dry the body with a clean, soft cloth. Use the window masks (162) supplied to cover the windows from the inside. A high-quality masking tape should be used on the inside of the body to mask off any stripes, panels, or designs that you wish to paint on the body. Use acrylic lacquer, acrylic enamel, or any other paints recommended for Lexan (polycarbonate). Apply paint to the inside of the body. Remove the tape for the next color and continue. Try to use darker colors first. If you use a dark color after a light color, apply a coat of white over the lighter color before applying the darker color. This will help prevent the darker color from bleeding through the lighter color. STICKERS

Cut the stickers from the sticker sheet (163) that you wish to apply to the body. Before removing the protective backing, find the desired location. Remove the backing completely and reattach an edge of the sticker to the shiny side of the backing material. Using the rest of the backing material as a handle, position the sticker and press firmly into place to complete its application.

2 9



FINAL CHECKLIST

BEFORE RUNNING YOUR NEW TRIPLE-XT for the first time, you should run down the following checklist — in order — and comple te the listed ta sks.

I'm sure you're anxious to get out and run your new Triple-XT now that it's built, but following this simple checklist will help to make your first run with your new truck much more enjoyable.

1. Adjust the differential

See About The Differential in the tips section.

2. Ad j ust the slipper

See Adjusting The Slipper in the tips section.

3. Check for free suspension movement

All suspension arms should move freely. Any binds will cause the truck to handle poorly. The steering should also operate very freely.

4. Set the rear ride height

The rear ride height should be set so that the dogbones are level with the surface. See the Rear Ride Height section of the tips.

5. Set the front ride height

The front ride height should be set so that the front suspension arms are level with the surface. See the

Front Ride Height section of the tips.

6. Adjust the camber

The front camber should be set to about 1/2 degree of negative camber (top of tire points in) at ride height.

Adjust the front camber with the tires turned straight ahead. The rear camber should also be set to have about 1/2 degree of negative camber at ride height.

See the Camber section of the tips.

7. Set the front toe-in

Adjust the front tie rods so that, when the steering is straight on the transmitter, the front tires are both pointing straight. It is recommended that you start with the front toe-in set to zero (no toe-in or toe-out).

8. Charge a battery pack

Charge a battery pack as per battery manufacturer's and/or charger manufacturer's instructions so that radio adjustments can be made.

9. Adjust the speed control

Following the manufacturer's instructions, adjust your speed control, and set the throttle trim on your transmitter so the the truck does not creep forward when not applying throttle. Make sure that there is not too much brake being applied when the trigger/stick is in the neutral position.

10. Set transmitter steering trim

The steering trim tab on the transmitter should be adjusted so that the truck rolls straight when you are not touching the steering wheel/stick. If the servo was installed correctly, as per Tables 57A and 57B, the wheels should turn equally to the left and right. If this is not the case, refer to Table 57B and ensure that the steering servo and rod were properly installed.

TIPS AND HINTS FROM THE TEAM

About The Differential Never allow the diff to slip; that’s what the slipper is for. Before trying to adjust your diff, you need to tighten the slipper until the spring is fully compressed. Next, hold the spur gear and right rear tire, then try turning the left rear tire forward. It should be very difficult to turn the left rear tire. If the tire turns easily, the diff is too loose. To tighten the diff, line up the slot in the diff screw with the groove in the left outdrive. Place the 1/16” Allen wrench through both of these slots. This will lock the diff screw and the outdrive together. While holding the Allen wrench in place, turn the right rear tire forward about 1/8 of a turn. Check the differential adjustment again and repeat the tightening process as necessary until the differential is no longer slipping. The final differential adjustment check should be made by placing the truck on carpet, grass, or asphalt and punching the throttle. The differential should not slip. If it does, tighten the diff in 1/8-turn increments as described above until the slippage stops.

Once the diff has been adjusted, it should still operate freely and feel smooth. If the diff screw starts to get tight before the diff is close to being adjusted properly, the diff should be disassembled and inspected; you may have a problem with the differential assembly. Refer to the assembly instructions to ensure that the diff is properly assembled and that all parts are properly seated in the assembly.

There are a few things you should know about differentials. First, when rebuilding your diff, you should always replace the small, 4-40 locknut. Second, after the diff has been built for a couple of hours, or been run a time or two, it is not uncommon for the balls to seat into the rings and create a slightly loose adjustment. So, after your first run, check the adjustment to avoid slippage. Third, remember: Never let the diff slip. Doing so can damage the diff balls, rings, and gear. Always make sure that the slipper will slip before the diff.

3 0



Adjusting the Slipper should be done after the diff is properly adjusted. If you have just finished adjusting the differential, loosen the slipper adjustment nut four full turns (e.g., 360 degrees x 4) to return the adjustment to the setting originally described in the assembly instructions. To make the final adjustments, place your truck on the racing surface and give the truck full throttle. The slipper should slip for one or two feet at the most. If the slipper slips for more than two feet, you’ll need to tighten the adjustment nut. If the slipper doesn’t slip for at least one foot, back off the adjustment nut 1/8 of a turn and retry. If you can’t hear the slipper when you punch the throttle, hold the front of the truck with the rear wheels still on the track surface and give the truck full throttle. The truck should push against your hand with reasonable force and the slipper should slip slightly.

Don’t expect the slipper to make up for poor driving. You still have to use your throttle carefully. The slipper will, however, give you a little help coming off corners and landing jumps.

When the track is really rough, rutty, or has a lot of killer jumps, you may want to consider installing a Hydra-Drive unit. When using the Hydra-Drive, the slipper adjustment should be set a bit looser so that the spur gear is easier to rotate while holding the right rear tire. Use the same method of checking adjustment on the Hydra-Drive as you would on the standard friction slipper. Do not run the Hydra-Drive too loose; it will build up heat and eventually damage the seals. The standard fluid should be used most of the time in the Hydra-Drive. This kit has a different type of slipper that cannot be used with the Hydra-Drive as it is currently assembled. However, a Hydra-Drive unit can be fit to the shaft by replacing the gear and outside aluminum slipper back plate with the Hydra-Drive spur gear, gear plate, Hydra-Drive unit, spring, etc. A Hydra-Drive conversion kit is also available (part #A3112).

The Most Sensitive Adjustments, and the most used by the Team Losi race team, are the number of washers under the front camber link ball studs and the anti-squat. See these two sections and try to familiarize yourself with the way that these adjustments affect the handling of the Triple-XT.

Ride Height is an adjustment that affects the way your truck jumps, turns, and goes through bumps. To check the ride height, drop one end (front or rear) of the truck from about a 5-6 inch height onto a flat surface. Once the truck settles in to a position, check the height of that end of the truck in relationship to the surface. To raise the ride height, lower the shock collars on the shocks evenly on the end (front or rear) of the truck you are working on. To lower the ride height, raise the spring collars. Both left and right collars should be adjusted evenly.

You should start with the front ride height set so that the front suspension arms are level with the surface. Occasionally, you may want to raise the front ride height to get a little quicker steering reaction, but be careful as this can also make the truck flip over more easily. The rear ride height should be set so that the truck comes to a rest at a height that is right in between having the arms level and the dogbones level with the surface. Every driver likes a little different feel so you should try small ride height adjustments to obtain the feel you like. We have found that ride height is really a minor adjustment. This should be one of the last adjustments after everything else has been dialed in. Do not use ride height adjustment as a substitute for a spring rate. If your truck needs a softer or firmer spring, change the spring. Do not think that simply moving the shock collar will change the stiffness of the spring; it won’t!

Front and Rear Static Camber Adjustment is normally set to 1/2-degree negative at ride height. However, adjusting the static camber can increase or decrease front and rear chassis roll and affect the handling of your truck. Increasing negative camber in the front will result in an increase in steering and improved handling through bumps. Increasing negative camber in the rear will result in less side-bite and increased steering. Be careful not to add too much negative camber or the truck may start to become difficult to drive.

Reducing negative camber in the front will result in a loss of steering, but smooth the steering response. Reducing negative camber in the rear will result in an increase in side-bite and more forward traction. Typically a setting of between 1/2- and 0-degrees of negative camber on both the front and rear of the truck will result in a good, solid feel.

Rear Hub Camber Location is best set according the settings described in this manual. You should start with the outer hole in the hub. The outer hole will tend to make the truck feel a bit stiffer. This results in the truck accelerating straighter and also makes it a bit easier to line up for jumps. Moving to the inner hole will typically make the truck go through bumps better. The inner hole may also give the feeling of more steering. This steering generally comes from the rear end though. What this means is that the rear end of the truck may swing a bit more — at times even sliding more.

Rear Camber Link Length can be another useful adjustment. It is virtually impossible to make a blanket statement for exactly how the length of the camber link will affect the handling under all conditions. The following is our experi-

3 1



ence with how the length of the camber link will typically affect the handling of the Triple-XT. A longer rear camber link will usually result in more rear traction. With a longer link, the truck can start to drive more square, or point-to-point.

This can make it difficult to carve corners at high speed. A shorter rear camber link will generally result in more steering from the rear of the truck due to increased chassis roll. This can make it easier to change directions quicker, but can cause the rear of the truck to roll around if the link is too short. A shorter rear link will usually go through bumps a bit better than a long link as well.

Front Carrier Camber Location is another adjustment that is almost always run in the standard (middle hole) location. This location keeps the truck flatter with less roll. The middle location also helps the truck stay tighter in turns with a more precise steering feel. Moving the link to the inner hole will make the steering react slightly slower. The advantage to the inner hole is that it can increase on-power steering and help the truck get through bumps better.

Moving the link to the outside hole will result in more off power steering and will make the steering react faster.

Washers Under the Front Camber Link Ball Stud can be added or removed. This is one of the most important adjustments on the Triple-XT truck. You should get a feel for how the number of washers affects the handling. Adding washers will make the truck more stable and keep the front end flatter. Removing washers will make the steering more aggressive. This can be good in some conditions, but can also make the truck difficult to drive in others. The best allaround adjustment is with two washers — as per the assembly instructions.

Front Camber Link Length is another adjustment that is difficult to make a generic statement for as it can have slightly different results on various conditions. The following is a summary of how this adjustment will usually impact the handling of the Triple-XT. A longer front camber link will usually make the truck feel stiffer. This will help keep the truck flatter with less roll, but can make the truck handle worse in bumpy conditions. A shorter front camber link will result in more front end roll. This will increase high-speed steering and make the truck better in bumps. Too short of a front link may make the truck feel twitchy or "wandery" — meaning that it may be difficult to drive straight at high speed.

Front Shock Location can be adjusted easily by simply moving top of the shock to another hole in the shock tower.

The standard location (second hole out) works best on most tracks. Moving the top of the shock out one hole will result in an increase in steering and the truck will react quicker. Moving the top of the shock to the inside hole in the tower will slow the steering response time and make the truck smoother in bumps.

The bottom of the shock can also be moved in on the suspension arm. Moving the bottom of the shocks to an inside hole in the arm will result in more low-speed steering and less high-speed steering. Mounting the shocks in the inside hole will require limiters in the shocks to limit the travel, and the springs should be changed to stiffer ones.

Rear Shock Location can be changed just as easily as the front. Again, the standard location is the best place to start for most tracks. Moving the top of the shock in on the shock tower results in more side-bite (traction in corners) and makes the truck smoother in bumps. Moving the top of the shocks to one of the two outside holes will give the truck more forward traction and help keep the truck from bottoming out on big jumps. A softer spring should be used if the shocks are mounted in one of the two outer holes in the tower.

Rear Anti-Squat is one of the two most commonly-used adjustments of the Triple-XT — washers under the front camber link ball stud being the other. The Triple-XT, as built per assembly instructions, has 4 o of anti-squat. Removing the shims under the front of the pivot block will result in 2 o of anti-squat. This will result in more side-bite, which will cause the truck to have less steering from the rear end. Less anti-squat will also make the truck get less air off of large jumps. Rear anti-squat is another adjustment that you should play with to get a feel for the different handling characteristics.

Rear Hub Spacing can be adjusted by moving the spacers at the front and rear of the hub carrier. You will probably find that the middle (standard) location works best on just about every track. Spacing the hub back might help on large, high-speed, outdoor tracks. Spacing the hub forward might help on tight, indoor tracks.

Battery Location is sometimes overlooked, but can be a useful adjustment. Start by running the battery spaced in the middle. Moving the battery back can improve rear traction on slippery tracks. Moving the battery back too far can cause the rear end to swing though turns on some tracks. This is a result of having the weight too far back.

We are sure that you will find the Triple-XT to be the most versatile and easiest truck to drive fast with great consistency.

We at Team Losi hope this information helps you to enjoy your Triple-XT and racing as much as we do. Results may vary from track to track. For the latest in setup information, visit the Team Losi website at: www.TeamLosi.com

3 2



KEY #

1

4 8

4 9

5 0

51

4 4

4 5

46

47

4 0

41

4 2

4 3

3 5

3 6

3 8

3 9

5 2

5 3

5 4

5 5

5 6

57

5 8

3 0

3 2

3 3

3 4

2 6

27

2 8

2 9

2 2

2 3

2 4

2 5

18

19

2 0

21

14

15

16

17

10

11

12

13

8

9

6

7

4

5

2

3

SPARE PARTS LIST

KIT/ PART DESCRIPTION

Servo saver bottom

Servo saver post

Servo saver top

Servo saver spring

Servo saver spring cap

6-40 locknut

4-40 mini locknut

Steering idler arm

Ball stud washer

1/4" ball stud

3/16" ball stud

Steering drag link

3/32" x 3/16" plastic bushing

Front kickplate

Steering brace

3/32" x .930" hinge pin

4-40 x 3/8" cap-head screws

Threaded insert

Main chassis

Front bulkhead

4-40 x 3/8" button-head screw

4-40 x 1/4" flat-head screw

4-40 x 7/8" cap-head screws

Front shock tower

4-40 nut

3/8" ball stud

3/16" x 3/8" sealed bearing

Left spindle

Right spindle

Front axle

5-40 setscrew

Left spindle carrier

Right spindle carrier

1/8" x .960" hinge pin

Front spindle spacer

Front suspension arm

Front pivot block

1/8" x 1.42" hinge pin

1/8" E-clip

Front hinge pin brace

Front bumper

4-40 x 1/2" flat-head screws

Plastic rod end

2-1/4" turnbuckle

Foam thing

1/8" x 1/4" washer

Rear pivot block

Rear suspension arm

Shock mount bracket

Inner rear hinge pin

Rear pivot plate


Rear shock tower

Front body mount

4-40 x 1/2" cap-head screw

#4 washer

PART NO.

A-1620

A-1150

A-5050

A-1116

A-4126

A-2007

A-6100

A-4136

A-4118

A-6220

A-6005

A-6068

A-6003

A-6350

A-4126

A-2141

A-2141

A-2166

A-2108

A-6210

A-2103

A-4118

A-6204

A-6350

A-4224

A-4107

A-4122

A-6229

A-6213

A-6216

A-1109

A-6300

A-6000

A-6903

A-4125

A-4125

A-1022

A-6228

A-4125

A-4125

A-1610

A-1620

A-1610

A-1620

A-1610

A-6306

A-1620

A-6215

A-6006

A-6001

A-1620

A-1620

A-4122

A-4122

A-1146

A-6206

SPARE PARTS DESCRIPTION

XXX Steering/Servo Mount Assembly (Molded)

Steering Hardware Set





4-40 Aluminum Mini Nuts (10)


#4 Narrow Washers (10)

Ball Studs w/Rod Ends 4-40 x 1/4" (4)




XXX Front Kickplate, Bulkhead, and Steering Brace


Front Outer & Kingpins 3/32" (XX, ‘CR’, XXX)

4-40 x 3/8" Cap-Head screws (10)

Threaded Chassis Inserts - Short and Long

XXX-T Main Chassis and Brace


4-40 x 3/8" Button-Head Screws (10)

4-40 x 1/4" Flat-Head Screws (10)

4-40 x 7/8" Cap-Head Screws (10)

XXX-T Front Shock Tower

4-40 Hex Nuts (10)


3/16" x 3/8" Teflon™-Sealed Bearings (2)

XXX-T Front Spindles/Carriers, and Rear Hubs


Front Axles for XX-T Wheels (GTX, NXT, XXX-T)

5-40 x 1/8" Hardened Set Screws



Front Outer Hinge Pin (XXX-T)

Shock Spacer Set

XXX-T Front Suspension Arms

XXX Front and Rear Pivot Block Set

Hinge Pin 1.42" (XXT, XXX)

1/8" E-Clips

XXX Front and Rear Inner Pin Brace Set

XXX Front Bumper, Motor Guard, and Body Mounts


H.D. 30 o Plastic Rod Ends (16)

Adjustable Threaded L/R Rod Set w/ends (2.25")

Foam Things (Linkage Rings) (24)

#4 and 1/8" Hardened Washers


Rear Suspension Arms (XXT ‘CR’, XXX-T)

Rear Suspension Arms (XXT ‘CR’, XXX-T)

XXX Inner Rear Hinge Pins

XXX Rear Pivot Plate


XXX-T Rear Shock Tower


4-40 x 1/2" Cap-Head Screws (10)

#4 and 1/8" Hardened Washers

3 3



KEY #

59

100

101

102

103

104

105

106

107

9 6

97

9 8

9 9

9 2

9 3

9 4

9 5

108

109

110

111

112

113

114

8 8

8 9

9 0

91

84

85

8 6

87

8 0

81

8 2

8 3

76

77

78

79

72

73

74

75

6 8

6 9

70

71

6 4

6 5

6 6

67

6 0

61

6 2

6 3

SPARE PARTS LIST


Dogbone

Plastic universal yoke

Universal pivot

Rear axle

3/32" x 1/2" spirol pin

Team Losi wrench

Right rear hub

Left rear hub

Inner rear axle spacer

Outer rear axle spacer


Rear hub spacer

1/8" x 1.250" hinge pin

2-1/2"" turnbuckle

Diff Nut/Carrier

Allen wrenches

Spring

Diff tube

Outdrive/diff half

Diff grease (clear)

Diff washer

5mm x 8mm bearing

Diff gear

3/32" carbide diff balls

1/4" x 5/16" shim

Diff adjusting screw

Foam thrust bearing seal

3mm x 8mm thrust bearing washer

White thrust bearing/assembly grease

5/64" thrust bearing balls

4-40 x 1" setscrew

Slipper shaft


Top gear

3/16" C-clip

Left gearbox half

1/2" x 3/4" bearing

Motor plate

Right gearbox half

Idler gear shaft

Top shaft spacer

1/8" x 3/8" bearing

Idler gear

2-56 x 5/8" cap-head screw

4-40 x 1-1/8" cap-head screw

Slipper back plate

Slipper pad

Spur gear 88-tooth

Slipper spacer

Silver slipper spring

Spring retaining washer

4-40 aluminum locknut

Motor guard

4-40 x 1-1/2" cap-head screw

Shock O-ring

Shock cartridge body

PART NO.

A-3090

A-3060

A-6102

A-3033

A-6908

A-3049

A-3033

A-3077

A-3033

A-6909

A-3079

A-3034

A-3034

A-3132

A-3123

A-3928

A-3124

A-3124

A-3124

A-6305

A-4118

A-3034

A-5015

A-5015

A-3072

A-3073

A-3065

A-3070

A-6907

A-3036

A-3009

A-6230

A-2910

A-2910

A-3099

A-3066

A-3099

A-3060

A-3060

A-3060

A-3083

A-3014

A-3015

A-6400

A-6030

A-4124

A-4124

A-9941

A-9941

A-6401

A-2127

A-2164

A-6070

A-2911

N / A

A-2910


Dogbone Drive/Shaft w/Yoke (XXT, NXT, XXX-T)

XX Yoke & Screw for Dogbone (2)

Universal Pivots (2)

Rear Axle, Spacer, and Pin (1)

Pins, U-Joint (8)

Assembly Wrench (version 2)

XXX Front Spindles/Carriers, and Rear Hubs

XXX Front Spindles/Carriers, and Rear Hubs

Bearing Spacer/Wheel Washer Set

Bearing Spacer/Wheel Washer Set

Pins — Wheels and Gears

Rear Hub Spacers (.060")

1/8" Upper Bulkhead / Outer Rear Hinge Pin (2)

Adjustable L/R Threaded Rod w/ends (2.50")

One-Piece Diff Nut/Carrier

N / A

Diff Screw & Hardware (Sport)

Differential Tube

Outdrive Cup/Diff Half

Silicone Differential Compound

Transmission Drive Rings (2)

5mm x 8mm Bearings

2.43:1 Diff Gear

3/32" Diff Balls (12)

Shim Assortment - 3/16", 1/4", 1/2" (20)

Differential Screw, Hardware, and Seal (Sport)

Diff Screw, Hardware, Seal Set (Sport)

Full Compliment Thrust Bearing Set

Teflon™ Assembly Grease

Full Compliment Thrust Bearing Set

Slipper Shaft, Spacer & Hardware

Slipper Shaft, Spacer, and Hardware



C-clips, .1875" - Large (12)

XXX Transmission Case Set and Spacers

1/2" x 3/4" Ball Bearings w/Teflon Seal (2)

XXX Motor Plate


Transmission Upper Gear, Idler, Shaft


1/8" x 3/8" Ball Bearings ('XX' Trans) (2)

Idler Gear (2.19:1 and 2.43:1)

XXX Transmission Screw Set


Slipper Backing Plate

Slipper Pad

88T 48-Pitch Spur Gear

Slipper Spring, Cup, Spacer, Bushing, and Washer



4-40 Aluminum Locknuts, Low Profile (10)



Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge


3 4



KEY #

115

140

141

142

143

144

145

146

147

132

133

134

135

136

137

138

139

124

125

126

127

128

129

130

131

116

117

118

119

120

121

122

123

157

158

159

162

163

164

1 6 5

148

149

150

152

153

154

155

156

***

SPARE PARTS LIST


Shock cartridge spacer

Shock cartridge cap

Shock fluid

Front shock shaft

Rear shock shaft

Shock end

Shock spacers

1/4" shock mount ball

#55 (orange) shock piston

#56 (red) shock piston

Front shock body

Rear shock body

Shock fluid

Shock spring cup

Red, front shock spring

Shock collar

Pink, rear shock spring

Short shock mount bushing

Long shock mount bushing

Front tire

Rear tire

Front wheel

Rear wheel

Foam tire liners

3/16" x .015" shim

10-32 locknut

3mm x 8mm cap-head screws

Gear cover

4-40 x 1/8" button-head screw

Gear cover plug

Servo Arm

Servo mounting post

Chassis brace

Short plastic rod end

4-40 x 5/8" threaded rod


Battery spacing foam

Battery strap foam strip

Battery hold-down strap

Body clip

Two-sided tape

Antenna tube

Antenna cap

Fury truck body

Window masks

Triple-XT sticker sheet

Rear hinge pin brace

Aniti-squat shim

PART NO.


A-5015 Double O-Ring Shock Cartridge

A-5013

A-5013

B-7440

B-7450

B-7040

B-7050

A-7698

A-6230

A-6303

A-6201

A-3048

A-6212

A-3045

A-1620

A-1620

A-4105

A-5015

A-5224

A-5017

A-5022

A-5023

A-2216

A-2006

A-5047

A-5045

A-5030

A-5031

A-5224

A-5023

A-5152

A-5023

A-5150


Team Losi Certified Shock Fluid 30 wt

1.0" Shock Shaft

1.2" Shock Shaft

Spring Clamps & Cups (2)

Rear Hub Spacers (.050") (4WD)

Swivel Suspension Balls .250" (8)

Teflon™ Shock Pistons #55 (Orange) (4)

Teflon Shock Pistons #56 (Red) (4)

.9" Shock Body, Hard Anodized

1.2" Shock Body, Hard Anodized

Team Losi Certified Shock Fluid 30wt


2.5" Spring 2.6 Rate (Red)


2.5" Spring 2.3 Rate (Pink)

XXX Front and Rear Upper Shock Mount Bushings

XXX Front and Rear Upper Shock Mount Bushings

Front Truck Tires Glued (Chrome Wheels)

Rear Truck Tires Glued (Chrome Wheels)

Front Solid-Face Truck Wheels (Chrome)

Rear Solid-Face Truck Wheels (Chrome)

Truck Foam Liners - Firm

Shim Assortment - 3/32", 3/16", 1/4", 1/2"

10-32 Locknuts (4ea Nylon & Steel) (8)

3mm x 8mm Cap-Head w/Washers (10)

XXX Gear Cover with Access Plug

4-40 x 1/8" Button-Head Screws (4)

Slipper Gear Cover Plug (4)



XXX Main Chassis and Brace

A-1615

A-1615

A-6233

A-4116

A-4116

A-4117

A-8200

A-4004

Short Ball Cups and Threaded Rod

Short Ball Cups and Threaded Rod


XXX Battery Strap, Pad, and Foam Block

XXX Battery Strap, Pad, and Foam Block

XXX-T Battery Strap, Pad, and Foam Block

Body Clips (12)

Servo Tape (6)

A-4002

A-4003

Antenna Kit

Antenna Caps (8)

A-8026*** Fury Truck Body w/Window Masks (Clear)

A-8026*** Fury Truck Body w/Window Masks

A-8345

A-4136

A-4126

XXX-T Logo Sticker Sheet

XXX Front and Rear Inner Pin Brace Set


XXX-T Sport “Fury” body is available in two colors.

B-8040

B-8041

“Fury” Body - (Blue) w/Stickers

“Fury” Red - (Red) w/Stickers

3 5





OWNER'S MANUAL

OWNER'S

MANUAL

NOTE: Using modified motors with any less than 15 turns of wire exceeds the capacity of the electronic speed control and voids any warranty.

Carefully read through all instructions to familiarize yourself with the parts, construction techniques, and tuning tips outlined in this manual. Being able to grasp the overall design of your new Triple-XT racing truck before beginning the construction process will ensure a smooth assembly.

Take your time and pay close attention to detail. Keep this manual for future reference.

• Service Information: Electronics

(Motor/Radio/Speed Control)

(877) 504 - 0233

• Chassis (All non-electric) (909) 390-9595

Welcome Team Losi Triple-XT Sport Owner!

Good luck, and thank you for choosing Team Losi.

Length: 16.195"

1. INTRODUCTION

TRIPLE-XT SPORT COMPLETED KIT DIMENSIONS

Front Width: 12.725" Rear Width: 12.875" ride will

Height: 5.505"

NOTES & SYMBOLS USED

Figure 1

IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTES

KIT/MANUAL ORGANIZATION

TOOLS REQUIRED

RADIO/ELECTRICAL

HARDWARE IDENTIFICATION

MOTORS AND GEARING

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Figure 1

Figure 2

Figure 3

Figure 4

Figure 5

Figure 6

Figure 7

Figure 8

Figure 9

Figure 10

Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 13

Figure 14

46

45

45

46

Figure 15

20

26

10

47

34

Figure 16

45

46

45

46

Figure 17

8

11

10

29

Figure 18

Figure 19

Figure 20

Figure 21

Figure 22

Figure 23

Figure 24

Figure 25

Figure 26

72

45

Figure 27

45

72

55

10

65

Figure 28

73

Figure 29