Venmar HRV 2500 Owner`s manual

Operating and Maintaining your HRV
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ISBN 0-662-26591-2
Cat. no. M91-23/8-1998E
Table of Contents
Introduction
Section 1
Section 2
Section 3
Section 4
Section 5
Section 6
Section 7
The Need for Mechanical Ventilation
The HRV System
Operating Your HRV
Routine Maintenance
HRV Maintenance Chart
Operating Problems and Solutions
Other Sources of Information
Issued also in French under title: Guide d'utilisation et d'entretien des ventilateurs–récupérateurs
de chaleur (VRC)
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Introduction
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Introduction
The importance of ventilation in today’s more energy-efficient homes is
universally recognized. Introduced as a requirement for airtight R-2000 Homes,
continuous ventilation systems are now common in new conventional housing and
major home renovations. Because of the energy savings generated, the system of
choice is often a heat recovery ventilator (HRV).
An HRV is a mechanical ventilation device that helps make your home healthier,
cleaner and more comfortable by continuously replacing stale indoor air with fresh
outdoor air. HRVs are set apart from other mechanical ventilation devices by their
ability to exchange heat between the supply and exhaust air streams, which in
turn reduces the cost of heating or cooling the healthy fresh air that circulates
through the home. HRVs are sometimes called air-to-air heat exchangers because
they preheat or cool incoming air using exhaust air.
This booklet discusses the need for mechanical ventilation in today’s homes and
explains the components of an HRV system, how to operate and maintain the
system, and how to solve operating problems. This information will be of use to
occupants of homes with HRVs.
There are many types of HRVs on the market, as well as different installation
strategies. The size of your house, type of heating system, and geographical
location, etc. can all affect the kind of system you have and the way it has
been installed. The diagrams in this booklet give examples of some of the types
of systems available; they are provided for information purposes only.
This booklet is intended to supplement your HRV owner’s manual, not to
replace it. If you need a manual or more information on operating procedures
for your HRV, contact the installer or manufacturer. Click here for a list of HRV
manufacturers whose products have certified performance ratings from the
Home Ventilating Institute.
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - The Need for Mechanical Ventilation
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The Need for Mechanical Ventilation
Cleaning the Air in an R-2000 Home
R-2000 Homes are built to be extremely airtight. This limits the uncontrolled flow
of air in and out of the home and greatly reduces heat loss and moisture damage
to the building structure.
To complement this airtightness and ensure a healthy living environment, R-2000
Homes use a mechanical ventilation system to remove pollutants from the home
by replacing stale indoor air with fresh outdoor air. These pollutants come from a
wide range of sources—household contents and materials, people and their
activities as well as family pets (see Some Typical Household Pollutants).
In most R-2000 Homes, the preferred mechanical ventilation system is an HRV.
This system allows fresh air to be distributed throughout the house. A properly
installed, operated and maintained HRV exhausts indoor air pollutants and excess
humidity to the outdoors while distributing fresh air throughout the house. During
the heating season, the HRV captures heat from the outgoing air and uses it to
preheat the incoming fresh air. During the air-conditioning season, an HRV can
reverse this heat-exchange process, removing some of the heat from the
incoming air and transferring it to the outgoing air.
Cleaning the Air in a Conventional Home
In recent years, more and more existing homes have undergone energy-efficiency
improvements such as upgraded insulation, improved air sealing, the installation
of energy-efficient windows, doors and heating systems, etc. As well, improved
practices in new home construction have resulted in more energy-efficient and
airtight conventional homes.
In many of these homes, air infiltration through doors, windows and other
openings in the building shell is too random and does not always provide
adequate ventilation, which is just as important in a conventional home as in an
R-2000 Home. Even when there is an acceptable rate of air exchange, the fresh
air may not be getting to the rooms where it is needed. As a result, mechanical
ventilation is needed in many conventional homes in order to evenly distribute
fresh air throughout the home and maintain a healthy living environment. An
added benefit of mechanical ventilation systems is their capability to filter the
incoming fresh outdoor air.
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What is an R-2000 Home?
R-2000 Homes are the most energy-efficient and environmentally friendly
homes on the market today.
Built, tested and certified to exacting technical standards, R-2000 Homes use
up to 50 per cent less energy than conventional homes. They feature
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a tightly sealed building envelope to reduce drafts and heat loss
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high levels of insulation
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a whole-house ventilation system
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advanced heating and cooling systems
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energy-efficient windows and doors
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energy-efficient appliances and lighting
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reduced water consumption
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the use of environmentally responsible building materials and techniques
(including recycled materials)
To obtain more information on R-2000 Homes, visit the R-2000 Home Program
website.
Some Typical Household Pollutants
You can eliminate or reduce certain sources of indoor air pollution by
understanding where household pollutants come from. However, no matter how
careful you are, there will always be some pollutants in your home and, therefore,
a need for ventilation.
Table 1 identifies the most common pollutants and their sources. Additional
information on indoor air quality is available from the Canada Mortgage and
Housing Corporation’s Canadian Housing Information Centre.
Table 1
Common pollutants and their sources
Pollutant
Source
Excess moisture (humidity) and
moulds
A crawl space with an exposed earth floor,
people, clothes drying indoors, cooking and
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washing, plants, firewood stored indoors,
etc.
Urea-formaldehyde
Some types of particle board, panelling,
carpeting, furniture, textiles, etc.
Radon
Soil and ground water
Tobacco smoke
Smoking
Household chemicals
Cleaning products, certain hobby supplies,
paints and solvents, aerosols, etc.
Odours, viruses, bacteria and
dandruff
Combustion by-products (including
carbon monoxide, nitrogen oxides,
carbon dioxide and particulates)
People and pets
Fuel-burning appliances, including
furnaces, heaters, range/ovens, gas
clothes-dryers, fireplaces, wood stoves,
etc.*
* CAUTION: Do not rely on an HRV to remove combustion by-products from your home or to supply the combustion air
requirements of fuel-burning appliances. If combustion by-products are escaping into your home, either an appliance or its
venting system are not operating properly and must be repaired immediately. Fuel-burning appliances should be installed to
vent to the outdoors. Unvented fuel-burning appliances, such as barbecues, portable gas-fired or kerosene space heaters,
unvented gas fireplaces, etc., are not recommended for use indoors.
How Much Ventilation Does Your Home Need?
The capacity of a home’s ventilation system is usually based on the number of
rooms in the house. HRV capacity is measured in litres per second (L/s) or cubic
feet per minute (cfm) of fresh air provided to the home.
Using the information in Table 2, you can calculate how much fresh air is needed
under normal circumstances to maintain good air quality in your home.
Table 2
Fresh air requirements per room
Room
Ventilation Air Supply
Master bedroom
10 L/s (20 cfm)
Unfinished basement 10 L/s (20 cfm)
Other rooms
5 L/s (10 cfm) each
Based on these figures, a ten-room home (unfinished basement, living room,
dining room, family room, kitchen, two bathrooms, a master bedroom, and two
bedrooms) would require an HRV with a rated capacity of 60 L/s (120 cfm). To
ensure adequate ventilation, the total ventilation capacity of the HRV at high
speed should be close to this total (see High-Speed Operation). The suggested
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low speed HRV ventilation rate should be 40 – 60 per cent of the high speed.
According to the Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality Standard, ASHRAE
62 – 1989, a minimum ventilation rate of 7.5 L/s (15 cfm) is required for each
person in the home in order to provide a level of indoor air quality that most
people would find acceptable.
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - The HRV System
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The HRV System
Components of an HRV System
An HRV system generally consists of the following equipment:
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z
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z
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insulated ducts for incoming (fresh) and outgoing (stale) air, along with
exterior hoods;
ductwork to distribute fresh air throughout the home and to return stale air
to the HRV;
fans to circulate air throughout the home and to exhaust stale air to the
outdoors;
a heat-exchange core, where heat is transferred from one air stream to the
other;
filters to keep dirt out of the heat-exchange core;
a defrost mechanism (some units use a preheater) to prevent freezing and
blocking of the heat-exchange core when the temperature of the incoming
air is cold (not shown);
a drain to remove any condensation from inside the HRV (may not be
required with all models); and
operating controls to regulate the HRV according to ventilation needs.
Figure 1
Components of an HRV
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(Note: All the parts shown here may not be found on all HRVs.)
During the heating season, an HRV recovers heat from the outgoing, stale
household air and uses it to preheat incoming, fresh outdoor air. The HRV then
distributes the incoming air throughout the house.
In the example shown in Figure 1, the flow of air in and out of the house takes
place simultaneously (note: the path of the airflow may vary from one type of
HRV to another). The two air streams are always kept separate within the HRV.
Fresh outdoor air is filtered before it enters the HRV core, from where a
circulation fan distributes the air throughout the home via ductwork. A separate
ductwork system draws the stale indoor air back to the HRV, where it is filtered
and pushed by a fan through the heat exchange core. Here, the stale air releases
heat that is transferred to the fresh air being drawn into the house.
During the air-conditioning season, the HRV reverses this heat-exchange process,
removing some of the heat from the incoming air and transferring it to the
outgoing air (see the box on Energy Recovery Ventilators).
Energy Recovery Ventilators
Energy recovery ventilators, or ERVs, are a relatively new type of HRV that can
exchange both heat and moisture.
An ERV will give you more control over moisture levels in your home, which can
be an important consideration depending on the local climate. Where winter
climates are extremely dry, ERVs can recover some of the moisture that would
be exhausted to the outdoors by a regular HRV. This can help you maintain a
comfortable humidity level within the home, avoiding static electricity, sore
throats and other discomforts caused by air that is too dry.
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During the air-conditioning season, on the other hand, ERVs can help keep
excess moisture out of the home by extracting it from the incoming fresh air
and transferring it to the exhaust air. Since less energy is required to lower the
temperature of dry air compared to moist air, an ERV can reduce the load on
the air conditioner and save you money.
Air Distribution
There are two standard ways to distribute fresh air throughout the home—
through ductwork installed specifically for the HRV (direct ductwork) or through
the ductwork of a forced-air furnace system.
A direct-ducted system is commonly found in homes that do not have forced-air
heating, such as those with electric baseboard, hot water or radiant heating. In
this case, the fresh air is distributed through ducts to the bedrooms, living room,
dining room, basement and other rooms, from where it disperses throughout the
house (see Figure 2). Exhaust air ducts take the stale air from rooms that have
high moisture and pollutant sources back to the HRV and from there to the
outdoors.
Figure 2
An HRV with direct ductwork
* Furnace return air may come from more than one location.
An HRV can also be installed to work in conjunction with a forced-air furnace
system, as illustrated in Figure 3. In this case, the HRV’s fresh-air duct is
connected to the furnace’s main return air duct. The fresh air enters the furnace
and is distributed throughout the house using the regular system of ductwork. In
such a configuration, the furnace blower should run continuously at low speed
when the HRV is operating to ensure a regular flow of fresh air throughout the
house. (The furnace blower can also be wired to operate at the normal higher
speed for heating and cooling. However, this higher speed can be noisy and may
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make the rooms feel cool if used to distribute ventilation air continuously.)
Separate, additional ductwork may be needed to transfer stale air from the wet
rooms to the HRV (as shown in Figure 3).
Figure 3
An HRV installed in conjunction with a forced-air furnace system
Checking Airflow
As a general rule, a direct-ducted system should provide at least as much airflow
per room as shown in Table 2. An HRV system connected to a forced-air furnace
distributes the fresh ventilation air to each warm air supply duct proportionally.
Keep in mind that if you adjust the dampers in a forced-air heating system to
increase or decrease ventilation airflow, you will also affect the amount of heat
(cool air during summer) that reaches the room.
The Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation has developed a simple technique
to determine if each room connected via ductwork to an HRV system is being
provided with the correct amount of fresh air. The technique requires a common
household plastic trash bag (66 cm x 91 cm [26" x 36"]), a wire coat hanger, and
a watch. Twist the coat hanger into a rectangular shape and tape the open end of
the trash bag around the wire. Gently deflate the bag, place it over the air
register and time how long it takes for the bag to fill with air. Table 3 provides the
approximate relationship between inflation times and airflow rates. Although this
technique is not precise, it will help you estimate the rate of airflow to each room
and allow you to make appropriate adjustments.
Table 3
Time to inflate a plastic trash bag
(66 cm x 91 cm [26" x 36"])
Airflow
Approximate time to inflate bag
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5 L/s (10 cfm)
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13 seconds
10 L/s (20 cfm) 8 seconds
15 L/s (30 cfm) 5 seconds
25 L/s (50 cfm) 3 seconds
If more air is required, adjust the grille openings at the supply register in the room (in some installations, you can adjust dampers
in the ducts). Keep in mind that bedrooms require more fresh air when occupied by more than one person.
The Need for a Balanced System
HRVs are designed to operate in a balanced state—the same amount of air should
be drawn into the home as is being exhausted. An unbalanced system results in
poor airflow and poor heat recovery and can lead to other problems, including an
undesirable, continuous air-pressure difference between the inside and outside of
your home.
System imbalance is usually caused by differences in the amount of ductwork
used in the fresh air and exhaust air streams; however, imbalanced airflows may
also be caused by a clogged filter, a blocked intake or exhaust hood, or a
malfunctioning damper or fan.
Withdrawing more air from the house than comes in creates excessive negative
pressure, as illustrated in Figure 4. Excessive negative pressure can cause
spillage of carbon monoxide and other combustion by-products from fuel-burning
appliances (e.g., a furnace, water heater or fireplace). Instead of leaving the
house via the chimney, these combustion by-products can be pulled back into the
house where they may be inhaled by occupants. Negative pressure can also
increase the rate of entry of undesirable gases and moisture from the soil
surrounding the basement (see Table 1, Common Pollutants and their Sources).
Either scenario can threaten the health of the occupants.
Pulling more air into the home than is exhausted, or excessive positive pressure,
can cause moist air from the home to be pushed into the walls and roof of the
house, where it can condense and lead to deterioration of the building materials.
This hidden problem often goes undetected until severe damage has been done.
As well, moisture escaping through exterior door locks can freeze the lock
mechanism, making it difficult to enter or leave the house. An imbalanced airflow
can also cause the HRV core to frost or freeze, restricting or completely blocking
further airflow (see Considerations for Heating Season Operation).
Finding a Contractor to Service Your HRV
To find a qualified HRV contractor, look under Heating Contractors or
Ventilating Contractors in the Yellow Pages™. When you contact one of the
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companies listed, make it clear that you require the services of a residential
mechanical ventilation installer who has been certified by the Heating,
Refrigerating and Air Conditioning Institute (HRAI) of Canada. If you have
difficulty finding a qualified contractor, contact the HRAI.
Figure 4
Effects of air pressure on a house
Example of positive household air pressure
Example of negative household air pressure
Although your HRV should have been balanced during installation, it is a good
idea to have the system checked by a qualified contractor once a year. If you are
purchasing an existing home that is equipped with an HRV, consider having the
system serviced, including a balance test.
Do-It-Yourself Balance Check
You can perform your own rough check of your HRV’s airflow balance using the
plastic trash bag technique explained in Table 3. In this case, tape the open end
of an extra large trash bag (i.e., the type used for leaf collection) to a coat
hanger. Place the deflated bag over the HRV’s exhaust hood located on the
outside of your house and time how long it takes for the bag to fill with air. Then
hold the inflated bag over the HRV’s air intake hood and time its deflation. On a
well-balanced system, inflation and deflation times should be equal, within a
matter of seconds.
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Operating Your HRV
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Operating Your HRV
Once an HRV is installed, balanced, and functioning, its ongoing operation is
relatively simple. By following these general guidelines and paying close attention
to the manufacturer’s and installer’s instructions, you can help ensure the safe
and reliable performance of your HRV.
Controls
First, become familiar with the HRV’s controls, which allow you to adjust the rate
of air exchange and, to some degree, the humidity level in your home. Depending
on the installation and the HRV model, operating controls may be located on the
HRV itself and/or in the kitchen, laundry room, bathroom or hallway. Pollutant
sensors may be installed in other rooms of the house. Typically, the main HRV
control is placed adjacent to the home’s main thermostat.
The operating controls may include the following functions depending on the
installation and the HRV model:
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z
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high-speed and low-speed controls;
a circulation mode setting, which circulates air inside the home but does
not exchange indoor and outdoor air;
a dehumidistat that will trigger the HRV into high-speed operation when
the humidity level in your home reaches a pre-set level;
a timer, which can be set to run the HRV at high speed for specified
intervals;
an intermittent exchange mode setting that automatically turns on the
HRV at low speed for specified intervals;
pollutant sensors that increase the ventilation rate when pollutant levels in
the home rise; and
a maintenance light, which comes on automatically when the filters, and
possibly other components, need to be cleaned or serviced.
Low-Speed Operation
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To ensure the removal of indoor pollutants and the supply of fresh outdoor air, an
HRV should be operated on low speed continuously year-round, especially in tight
homes and homes with average indoor pollutant levels.
Under most circumstances, low-speed operation will meet your ventilation needs
(for exceptions, see next section on High-Speed Operation) and be more effective
than intermittent high-speed operation. Operating in intermittent exchange mode
may be appropriate when pollutant sources are low, the house is not overly tight,
or the occupants are away from the home for extended periods.
If you turn off the HRV, remember to make other provisions for ventilation, such
as opening windows.
High-Speed Operation
Under certain conditions, the ventilation rate in your home may need to be
increased from low-speed operation. Depending on the installation, a high-speed
cycle may be triggered manually or by a timer, dehumidistat or other controls.
High-speed operation is often needed in the kitchen and bathrooms. It also may
be required when
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you are using paints, solvents, cleaning products and other household
chemicals
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the house air seems stale, contains odours or is too humid
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there are many people in the house, such as during a party
Operating the ventilation system on high speed will also help improve air quality
when people smoke in the house. Tobacco smoke is one of the most noticeable
and harmful indoor air pollutants. If possible, smoking should be confined to
rooms that are exhausted directly to the outdoors, either through the HRV or
through a separate exhaust system (such as a kitchen fan).
Frequent or even continuous high-speed operation may be desirable during the
first year after a house is built, in order to exhaust the moisture and pollutants
being released by new building materials.
An HRV is not an air cleaner and may not deal effectively with extraordinary
sources of indoor air pollutants (e.g., strong-smelling glues), particularly if the
pollutants are generated in a room that is not exhausted directly to the HRV. In
such cases, occupants should reduce the activities that are generating the
pollutants or install a dedicated exhaust system.
Considerations for Heating Season Operation
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Most HRVs feature an automatic defrost mode that activates when the
temperature of the incoming fresh outdoor air is below -5°C. Some type of
defrosting mechanism is required in cold climates because, as the heat is
extracted from the home’s outgoing moist air (to warm the incoming fresh air),
the temperature of the outgoing air drops to the point where moisture/frost can
form on the surfaces of the heat-exchange core. A build-up of frost can block
airflow through the HRV.
One type of defrost mechanism uses dampers to temporarily block the incoming
fresh air stream and allow warm air from the house to circulate through the HRV,
where it melts any frost that has accumulated. The HRV returns to normal
operation after this automatic defrost cycle. As the outdoor air gets colder during
the winter, this cycle increases in duration.
Another approach is to use an electric resistance heater to preheat the fresh air
before it enters the core. With this strategy, defrosting is not required since the
preheating prevents frost from forming.
To help minimize condensation on cold surfaces, such as windows, during the
heating season, adjust your HRV’s dehumidistat accordingly. Keep in mind that
you do not want the household air to be too dry, as this can cause static
electricity and dry, scratchy throats. If the air in your home is too dry during the
heating season and you have attributed this to the HRV’s operation, refer to the
HRV Troubleshooting Guide.
Considerations for Non-Heating Season Operation
The best strategy is to operate your HRV continuously year-round, even during
the non-heating season. Except for adjusting the dehumidistat setting, operation
should be essentially the same as during the heating season.
You may find that operating the HRV keeps the home cooler and quieter than if
you had to open windows for ventilation. Keeping windows closed also provides
better security and reduces the amount of pollen and dust entering the home. If
you prefer, the low-speed setting on some HRVs can be switched off, leaving the
high-speed setting to operate intermittently to remove excess moisture and
odours from the kitchen and bathrooms. In this case, make sure the windows you
open provide good air movement throughout the house.
By removing some of the heat from the incoming air, most HRVs will reduce the
load on the air conditioner and save you money.
Considerations for All Seasons
Keep contaminants away from the fresh air intake when your HRV is operating.
For example, avoid putting trash next to the HRV intake, do not use pesticides
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and herbicides nearby, and keep your barbecue downwind. If you must
temporarily generate pollutants near the HRV intake, turn the HRV off until the
activity is complete.
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Routine Maintenance
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Routine Maintenance
If your HRV breaks down, hire a trained contractor to repair it (see Finding a
Contractor to Service Your HRV). Do not avoid repairing the HRV simply to
save money. If your home was designed and built to have an operating
mechanical ventilation system, such as R-2000 Homes or other airtight homes,
poor indoor air quality, reduced comfort, and moisture problems may result if the
system is not properly operated and maintained.
Seven-Step Maintenance Schedule
With routine preventative maintenance, you can avoid unnecessary problems,
ensure the effectiveness of your HRV, and prolong its life. The summary below
indicates some general HRV maintenance requirements. Items 1 through 6 are
maintenance procedures a homeowner should undertake between annual service
visits by a professional.
For additional specific instructions, refer to your HRV operating manual
or ask the contractor who installed or services the HRV to demonstrate
the proper maintenance procedures. Some HRVs may have their maintenance
instructions affixed to the heat-exchange core.
Be sure to disconnect the electrical power before servicing your system.
1. Clean or replace air filters. Filters, which are usually located within the HRV
(see Figure 5), should be cleaned every one to three months. Some filters
cannot be cleaned and should be replaced. Washable filters should be
vacuumed first, then washed with a mild soap and water. Most washable
filters will last several years before needing to be replaced.
Dirty filters can reduce ventilation efficiency, result in unbalanced airflows,
and even cause the unit to shut down if it is equipped with an airflow switch.
Filters not designed to operate with your HRV can add resistance to the
airflow and may impair the unit’s operation.
When cleaning the filters, take the opportunity to vacuum or clean any
interior surfaces adjacent to the filters. As well, if your unit has an electric
preheater element, carefully vacuum the element’s surfaces.
If the HRV uses the furnace ductwork to distribute fresh air to the home, you
should also maintain the furnace filter and fan more frequently.
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Figure 5
Example of location of filters in an HRV
(Note: Other types of filters are used in some HRVs, and their location may vary)
2. Clear the exterior intake and exhaust vents of obstructions. Check the
outside vents regularly to ensure that the screen openings are not
obstructed by grass, bushes, leaves or other debris (see Figure 6). Do not
replace the screen with mesh smaller than 1/4 inch, as this will block airflow.
If the exhaust hood has a back-draft damper, check it for free operation and
proper positioning (the damper should be closed when there is no airflow).
You might want to check the hoods more often in the autumn (when there
are leaves on the ground) and during the winter (to ensure that snow or
frost build-up does not block the openings). Over time, you will become the
best judge of how frequently you should check your HRV hoods. If the
openings are regularly clogged or blocked, consider moving the vent
openings higher up the wall.
3. Clean the heat-exchange core. Inspect the heat-exchange core twice a year
and clean it as required (consult your owner’s manual for instructions on
inspecting and cleaning the core). A build-up of dust and dirt can restrict
airflow and reduce the efficiency of your HRV. After inspection and cleaning,
make sure the core is replaced right-side-up. It is also a good idea to inspect
the heat-exchange core during very cold weather to ensure that the defrost
is working.
4. Clean the condensate drain and pan. Twice a year, check the condensate
drain (if your HRV has one) and tubing to ensure that they are open and
free-flowing. To do this, find the hole that leads to the drain inside the unit.
Then pour two or three litres of warm water into the pan leading to the
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Routine Maintenance
Page 3 of 4
drain. If the water does not flow freely, unblock the drain using a piece of
thin wire. The tubing can be disconnected for cleaning. The condensate drain
must have a “trap” – an S or loop in the tubing that traps a quantity of water
– to prevent air from entering the HRV via this tubing (see Figure 1). You
should also clean the condensate pan located inside the HRV.
Figure 6
Checking exterior inlets and outlets
5. Service the fans. The fans on many HRVs are designed to operate
continuously without lubrication. Your owner’s manual will indicate whether
lubrication or service is necessary. If lubrication is required, make sure you
use proper motor lubricating oil (non-detergent oil). Do not use too much oil,
as this may damage the motor. Inspect the blower fans periodically for dirt
on the blades, and remove it by gently brushing the blades or using a
vacuum cleaner.
6. Clean grilles and inspect the ductwork. Clean the duct grilles when they are
dusty or greasy. At least once a year, visually inspect the interior surfaces of
the ductwork leading to and from the HRV. These surfaces will collect dirt
over time; however, professional ductwork cleaning is usually needed only
once every few years.
Kitchen exhaust grilles should have filters to catch grease. These filters must
be cleaned on a regular basis or as required.
Check for punctures in the insulation jacket (the protective cover that seals
the insulation) on the fresh air and exhaust air ducts. Repair any punctures
using foil duct tape. Otherwise, they can lead to condensation problems,
including wet insulation, water on the floor, and occasionally, ice build-up. If
the insulation itself is damaged, take the steps indicated in the HRV
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Routine Maintenance
Page 4 of 4
Troubleshooting Guide.
7. Arrange for an annual servicing. Your HRV should undergo annual general
servicing by a contractor who is accredited by the Heating, Refrigerating and
Air Conditioning Institute (HRAI) of Canada and who is familiar with your
HRV. If possible, have your furnace and HRV serviced at the same time; this
will result in less inconvenience and cost than two separate visits.
The HRV’s annual servicing should include the following:
z
z
z
maintenance items 1 to 6 (above). Additional requirements specified by
the manufacturer should also be included.
a general check for proper operation. Controls and electrical connections
in the HRV should be inspected, particularly those located inside the exhaust
and fresh air streams. The defrost system should also be tested.
verification that the intake and exhaust airflows are properly
balanced. Actual airflows should be measured and the results should be
indicated on the maintenance label affixed to the HRV. If necessary, the
airflows should be rebalanced.
The contractor should provide you with a written report on the overall condition of
the HRV. Ask whether an extra fee will be charged before requesting such a
report.
To help you remember when maintenance is due, an HRV Maintenance Chart is
provided on the next section. Post a copy on the HRV to keep a record of your
service and maintenance schedule.
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - HRV Maintenance Chart
Page 1 of 2
HRV Maintenance Chart
Unless otherwise recommended by the manufacturer, service your HRV according
to the following schedule. If service or maintenance items not specified below are
recommended by the manufacturer, write them into the blank spaces provided.
CAUTION! Disconnect electrical power before servicing your hrv.
Maintenance Required
Recommended
Clean or replace air filters
Every 1 to 3
months*
Clean or unblock outside hoods
and screens
Every 1 to 3
months*
Date Maintenance
Performed
Inspect and clean heat-exchange
Every 6 months
core
Inspect and clean condensate
drain and pans
Every 6 months
Service and clean fans
Every 3 to 6
months
Clean grilles and inspect
ductwork
Annually
Check defrost system
Annually
General servicing by a qualified
contractor
Annually
Adjust dehumidistat controls
Seasonally
Balancing
Supply airflow
Annually
Exhaust airflow
Annually
* You may want to alter this schedule to meet your own needs, depending on the severity of your home’s indoor and outdoor
environments or the manufacturer’s recommendations. More frequent servicing may be required if your home is in a location that
is dusty, has high traffic flows, etc.
Contractors Telephone number
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - HRV Maintenance Chart
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Operating Problems and Solutions
Page 1 of 2
Operating Problems and Solutions
As with any appliance, problems can arise with your HRV, even if it is operated
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Some problems will be very simple
to diagnose and remedy, while others may require the services of a qualified
contractor. The HRV Troubleshooting Guide, below, indicates when a contractor
should be called. For more specific information, consult your owner’s
manual.
CAUTION! Disconnect the power supply before working on your HRV.
HRV Troubleshooting Guide
Problem
HRV not
operating
Possible causes and solutions
z
z
z
z
HRV operating
but little or no
airflow at grilles
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Core freezes
z
z
z
z
Verify that HRV control is turned on.
Ensure that HRV is plugged in and that the electrical
cord is not damaged.
Check for tripped circuit breaker or blown fuse. If either
has occurred, call a contractor. (Do not reset the breaker
or replace a fuse before determining what caused the
electrical problem, as this is a fire or shock hazard.)
If problem persists, call a contractor.
Check exterior hoods for blockage and clean as required.
Check ducts to exterior hoods and clean as required.
Check filters and clean or replace as required.
Check ducts/registers in rooms for blockage (closed
damper, toys, etc.).
Check core for freezing/frosting (see Core freezes
below).
Check ducts for leakage or disconnection. Seal any loose
joints with duct tape.
If problem persists, call a contractor.
Open door and let ice melt (some cores can be easily
removed and thawed in a sink).
Check filters and clean or replace as required.
With some HRV models, the defrost mechanism or
preheater can be checked by following the
manufacturer’s instructions in the owner’s manual.
If problem persists, call a contractor. Your system may
need rebalancing to increase exhaust flow or decrease
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Operating Problems and Solutions
Page 2 of 2
supply flow.
HRV runs on one
speed only
z
z
Damaged duct
insulation jacket
z
z
Cold drafts in
living quarters
z
z
z
Poor air quality/
excess moisture
throughout the
house
z
z
z
z
z
z
Air too dry in
winter
z
z
z
z
z
z
z
Unusual noise and
vibrations
z
z
z
Check all switches for malfunctions by varying the
settings.
If unit remains on same speed, call a contractor.
If the insulation is wet, has any ice build-up or if there is
water on the floor, replace and properly seal the
damaged insulation.
If the insulation is not damaged, use duct tape to repair
any punctures in the jacket.
Check for blockage of exhaust air stream.
Check core for freezing.
If problem persists, ask installer to provide diffusers,
relocate fresh air outlets, add additional outlets, or add a
preheater, as appropriate.
Adjust dehumidistat.
Check core for freezing.
Reduce sources of humidity.
Run HRV at a higher speed.
Ensure HRV is operating properly (check airflow using
plastic trash bag technique).
If problem persists, the HRV’s minimum continuous
ventilation rate may be inadequate. Call a contractor.
Adjust dehumidistat.
Run HRV on lowest setting.
Run HRV intermittently.
Consider installing a control to run HRV intermittently.
Sensation of dryness may be caused by chemicals.
Control pollutant at the source.
Consider installing a humidifier (if you do so, make sure
you clean it regularly).
Consider installing an energy recovery ventilator (ERV),
which can help with humidity problems (see Energy
Recovery Ventilators). This is a more expensive solution
than any of the above. Some HRVs can be converted to
ERVs, at less cost than installing a new unit.
Oil the fan motors (if not self-lubricating) using nondetergent motor lubricating oil.
Inspect and clean fan blades and heat-exchange core as
required.
If problem persists, call a contractor.
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Other Sources of Information
Page 1 of 2
Other Sources of Information
For more information related to indoor air quality, contact the Canadian Housing
Information Centre at Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) by
calling (613) 748-2367. Alternatively, write or fax your request to Canadian
Housing Information Centre
Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation
700 Montreal Road
Ottawa, ON
K1A 0P7
Fax: (613) 748-4069
If you cannot find a qualified contractor in the Yellow Pages™, a list of HRAIcertified residential mechanical ventilation installers in your area is available by
contacting
Heating, Refrigerating and Air Conditioning
Institute of Canada
5045 Orbitor Drive
Building 11, Suite 300
Mississauga, ON
L4W 4Y4
Fax: (905) 602-1197
Many HRV manufacturers have their products independently tested and rated for
their efficiency in transferring heat. The Home Ventilating Institute in the United
States publishes an annual Certified Home Ventilating Products Directory that
includes these ratings for many HRV models. If you are purchasing a new HRV,
this rating can be a valuable tool for selecting an efficient model. For a copy of
the directory, write to
Home Ventilating Institute
Division of Air Movement and Control Association, Inc.
30 West University Drive
Arlington Heights, Illinois 60004-1893
HRV Manufacturers
Manufacturer
Brand Name
Address
Telephone Number
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Operating and Maintaining your HRV - Other Sources of Information
Page 2 of 2
Broan Limited
Broan
1140 Tristar Drive
Mississauga, ON
L5T 1H9
(905) 670-2500
Bryant
Bryant
5118 Everest Drive
Mississauga, ON
L4W 2R4
(905) 602-7033
Carrier Canada
Comfort Ventilator 101 Claireville Drive
Rexdale, ON
M9W 6K9
(416) 674-7500
Conservation
Energy Systems
Inc.
Van-EE
2525 Wentz Avenue
Saskatoon, SK
S7K 2K9
1-800-667-3717
Kanalflankt
Inc
Enviro
P.O. Box 2000
Bouctouche, NB
E0A 1G0
(506) 743-9500
Heil (Inter City
Heil
Products
Corporation [CAN])
141 Cedarmill Avenue (905) 669-6100
Vaughan, ON
L4K 4G5
Honeywell Limited Honeywell
155 Gordon Baker Rd. (416) 502-5200
North York, ON
M2H 3N7
Lennox Industries
Lennox
400 Norris Glen Road (416) 621-9321
Etobicoke,ON
M9C 1H5
Nu-Air Ventilation
Systems Inc.
Nu-Air
P. O. Box 59
Newport, NS
B0N 2A0
Nutech Energy
Systems Inc.
Lifebreath,
Tradewinds
511 McCormick Blvd. (519) 457-1904
London, ON
N5W 4C8
Trent Metals
Limited
Summeraire
P.O. Box 4088
Peterborough, ON
K9J 7B1
(705) 745-4736
Venmar
Ventilation Inc.
Flair
1715 rue Haggerty
Drummondville, QC
J2C 5P7
(819) 477-6226
(902) 757-1910
* revised december, 1997.
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