Craftsman 113.198311 Operators Operator`s manual

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For Future Reference
Operators
Manual
MODEL NO.
113.198311
10" RADIAL SAW
WITH 44" CABINET
Serial
Number
Model and serial numbers
may be found at the rear of
the base.
You should record both
model and serial number in
a safe place for future use.
CRRFTgMRN
10-INCH RADIAL SAW
CAUTION:
READ ALL
INSTRUCTIONS
CAREFULLY
Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK
Part No. SP5103
• Assembly
• Operating
• Repair parts
AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.
Printed in U.S.A.
FULL ONE YEAR
WARRANTY
ON CRAFTSMAN
RADIAL
SAW
If within one year from the date of purchase, this Craftsman Radial Saw fails due to a defect in material or
workmanship, Sears will repair it, free of charge.
WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY SIMPLY CONTACTING THE NEAREST
SERVICE CENTER/DEPARTMENT
THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES.
SEARS
This warranty
applies only while this product is used in the United States.
This warranty
state.
gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other :rights which vary from state to
SEARS,
ROEBUCK
AND
CO.,
DEPT.
698/731A
Sears
Tower,
Chicago,
IL 60684
Table of Contents
Section
Safety
Title
Information
Putting
and Function
Alignment
Electrical
...........................................................
Your Saw Together
Location
.................................................
of Controls
........................................
of the Blade .....................................................
Connections
Crosscutting
Ripping
Page Numbers
.....................................................
...............................................................
...................................................................
Cutting Accessories
Recommended
.......................................................
Accessories
...................................................
Glossary ......................................................................
3-6
7-18
19-22
23-38
39-40
41-47
48-56
57-60
61
62
Helpful Hints .............................................................
63-64
Maintaining
65-70
Trouble
Your Saw ....................................................
Shooting
.........................................................
Parts List ..................................................................
71-75
76-91
Safety Information
The operator's manual contains safety information, instructions and signs for your protection against serious injuries, including:
Loss of fingers, hand,
with the saw blade.
arm or leg from contact
Eye injuries, including being blinded from
being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the saw blade.
Impact injuries, including broken bones and
internal organ damage, from being hit by a
thrown workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces
of the saw blade.
Major Hazards
1. Workpiece
Kickback
Kickback is an uncontrolled
grabbing and
throwing of the workpiece
during ripping. If
kickback occurs, the workpiece
can hit
you hard enough to cause broken bones, internal organ injury or death. To reduce or
prevent kickback, read and follow the safety
information
in the Ripping section of the
manual.
Kickback.
Shock, electrocution,
or burn injuries from
contact with wires, motor or other saw parts.
Safety
Internal
Symbol and Signal Words
The safety information
in this manual is highlighted by the following safety alert symbol.
Fig. 2 Kickback
are used to indi-
DANGER:
Means that if the safety information is not followed, someone will be
seriously injured or killed.
WARNING:
Means that if the safety information is not followed someone could be
seriously
'_,
injured
CAUTION:
formation
jured.
Safety Sign
Followed
by Blade Contact
Alert Symbol
The following signal words
cate the level of risk.
'_
can
Use anti-kickback
pawls/spreader.
2. Kickback
Fig. 1 Safety
injury
result.
Kickback followed by blade contact can happen when the saw blade is pinched or bound
by the workpiece during ripping. Kickback
can happen if you reach around the blade to
the end with the anti-kickback
pawls, (outfeed end), and try to hold-down
or pull the
workpiece through to complete the cut. Your
fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the
blade if the workpiece
kicks back.
or killed.
Means
is not followed
Kickback,
Blade
Contact.
that if the safety insomeone
may be in-
All of the safety information
and cutting
steps are critical to the safe operation
of the
radial arm saw.
Fingers, hand, arm
can be cut off.
Follow instructions
for Ripping
Fig. 3 Blade Contact
Safety Sign
3. Wrong
Way
Feed
Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece
into the end of the saw with the anti-kickback
pawls. The workpiece
can be grabbed by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off.
can
Wear safety
goggles.
Fig. 6 Safety Goggles
Wrong
be blinded
Safety Sign
Way Feed.
_i, DANGER:
Follow the 8 steps listed
below to reduce or eliminate
the risk of
Fingers,hand,
arm
can be cut off.
being injured when using the radial arm
saw. Failure to do so can result in a life
threatening
injury or death.
Feed into infeed
end of saw.
Fig. 4 Wrong Way Feed Safety, Sign
If a workpiece is fed into the end of the saw
with the anti-kickback pawls, it can take off
like a missile. Anyone hit by the workpiece
can be killed. Feed the workpiece into the infeed end of the saw blade, the end that does
not have the anti-kickback pawls.
Wrong
Way
1. Lower the anti-kickback
spreader when crosscutting
2. Set blade guard
when crosscutting.
Workpiece
impact
can kill others.
position
nose only when
rip-
4. Keep hands as far away from the blade
as possible when cutting.
Feed into infeed
end of saw.
Fig. 5 Wrong
in horizontal
3. Lower blade guard
ping.
Feed.
pawls and
and ripping.
5. Return the saw to its rearmost
after each crosscut.
position
Way Feed Safety Sign
6. Wait until the blade has stopped turning before reaching for the workpiece
or
anything
else on the table.
4. Thrown
Pieces
Workpiece
Chips
and Blade
7. Read and follow the safety information
and safety instructions in the operator's
manual and in the safety labels on the
radial arm saw.
The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade violently. You
can be blinded. Wear safety goggles labeled
"ANSI Z87.1" on the package.
8. Know location
and function
of all con-
trols before using saw. See the Location
and Function of Controls section.
4
Personal
Saw
Safety
1. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1"
on the package. Do not wear regular glasses,
they are not safety glasses.
4. Wear hearing protectors,
ear plugs or
muffs, if you use the saw daily.
Work
Don't
over-
and
4. Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece
when practical. It's safer than using your
hands and frees them to operate the saw.
5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or accessories to do jobs they are not designed to do.
Area Safety
1. Keep children, pets and visitors out of the
work area.
2. Make the work area child proof. Remove
the yellow key from the red switch and place
it out of reach and sight. Lock work area.
3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust,
or other slippery materials.
4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered
well lighted.
pawls in
3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance,
making adjustments,
and changing blades
accessories.
3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety goggles, if cutting operation
is dusty.
and balance.
1. Keep guards and anti-kickback
place and in working order.
2. Check for broken or damaged parts before
using saw. A damaged guard or other saw
part should be checked for alignment, binding, breakage and correct mounting to make
sure they are working properly. Repair or
replace damaged guards or other saw parts.
2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve
shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie
long hair. Do not wear loose, baggy clothes,
gloves, neckties, rings, watches or any other
jewelry.
5. Keep good footing
reach.
Safety
wax
and
5. Use the saw in a dry area. Do not use in
wet or damp area. Do not use outside.
6. Clear the table of all objects (adjusting
wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except
the workpiece to be cut, fixtures or clamps
before turning the saw on.
6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and
the red switch is in the off position before
plugging in the power cord.
7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic
materials. Do not cut metal materials.
8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or
table if it slides, tips or walks during use.
9. Feed the workpiece
against the direction
of rotation of the blade when ripping.
10. Turn the saw off before leaving work
area. Do not leave the saw until the blade
has stopped.
11. Lock the rip and miter locks before
moving the saw from one location to another.
7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work
on the table while the blade is turning.
12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if
the blade jams. Do not try to free a jammed
workpiece with the saw on.
8. Store items away from the saw. Do not
climb on the saw to reach items. Do not
stand on the table; the saw can tip over.
13. Turn the saw off if it vibrates excessively
or makes an unfamiliar
noise. Correct any
problems before restarting saw.
14.Rip workpieces that are longer than the
diameter of the blade being used.Do not rip
a workpiece that is shorter than the diameter
of the blade being used.
15. Cut only one workpiece at a time. Do
not cut stackedworkpieces or lay them edge
to edge for cutting.
Safety
Labels
1. Wrong way feed label located
feed end of the blade guard.
2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade. Use
table extensions or other supports. Do not
use helpers.
on the out-
I DANGER J
TO AVOID
INJURY DO NOT
FEED MATERIAL
INTO CUTTING
TOOL FROM
THIS END
Fig. 7 Wrong Way Feed Label
3. Helpers can cause the workpiece
to kickback. Do not use other people to support or
assist in feeding or pulling the workpiece.
Use table extensions.
See Recommended
Accessories section of the manual.
4. When table extensions
over 24 inches wide
are added to either side of the saw, make
sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or
support the outer end of the extension from
the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.
2. Safety instruction
label located on the
front of the saw near the handwheel.
[ DANGER
I
FOR YOUR OWN
SAFETY:
1. Read and understand
owner's manual
before operating machine.
2. Wear safety goggles complying with
ANSIZ87.t.
3. Keep hands out of path of saw blade.
4. Know how to avoid "KICKBACKS_'
5. Use "PUSH STICK" for narrow work.
6. Never reach around the saw blade.
7. Never perform any operation
"FREEHAND:'
8. Return carriage to the full rear position
after each cross-cut type operation.
9. Shut off power and allow saw blade to
stop before adjusting or servicing.
Fig. 8 Safety Instruction Label
Safety
marked
2. Do not use blades
diameter.
3. Keep blade
Saw
r
1. Use additional supports for workpieces
which extend beyond the saw table. Large
workpieces
can shift, twist, rise from table or
fall after they are cut.
1. Use blades
Arm
The following labels are on your radial arm
saw. Locate, read and follow the safety instructions
and information
contained
in these
labels.
Workpiece Support Safety
Blade
on the Radial
for 3450 rpm or higher.
larger
than
l0 inches
in
sharp and clean.
3. Ripping
safety label located
IDANGER
I WHEN
1. Read and understand
owner's
manual
operaUng
m4_blne.
2. Woar salfMy goggles
complying
with
ANSi 7.87.1.
3. KINIp hands
out of path of law bllide.
4. Know how to avoid
"KICKBACKS:'
RIPPING
5. Use "PUSH
STICK"
6. Nero" roach around
7. Never perform
"FREEHAND:'
any
for narrow work.
the law blade.
oporatlon
8. Shut o4/power
and allow law blade
StOp before adjusting
o¢ N/'_'lclng.
TO
4. Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapidly; the blade can loosen.
on the motor.
AVOID
RUNAWAY
to
WORKPIECE
ALWAYS
PUSH WO_,KPIIECE
into
cutt_
tool FROM THIS END ONLY
DANGER
AT OUTFEED
Wotkpleca
can smlck_
kick beck and
, and under out_
too_
5. Do not overtighten the blade; the blade
collar can be warped.
ZONE
KEEP
HANDS
AWAYI
e._d417
Motor:. 120 Volts
12 Amps
Fig. 9 Ripping
3450 R.P.M.
Safety Label
60 Hz.
1 Phase
Puttin
Your Saw To ether
J
Your radial arm saw is easy to put together,
however it will take time. Ask a friend to
E
help, and follow these assembly instructions.
It is important for your safety, and for the
quality of your cuts, that the saw be put
together with care.
'_
WARNING:
Plugging
\
A
G
F
D
the saw in
during assembly
can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during assembly. The saw should only be
plugged in when it is to be used.
Unpacking/Set
up
1. As you unpack, try to keep the contents of
each of the smaller bags together and separate
from the others. This will help you identify and
locate the parts you need during assembly.
LIST OF LOOSE PARTS
A.
Basic
Saw
Assembly
Manual
MODEL
Fig. 10- Parts for Model 113.198311
2. Identify the large parts of your saw before
beginning each section. Your task will be
easier if you are familiar with these parts.
113.198311
.....................
1
B.
Operators
C.
D.
Cabinet
Assembly
Front Table Board
E.
Fence
F.
G.
Spacer
Board
............................
Rear Table ...............................
1
1
H.
Trim
1
1/2" Wrench
2
6
9/16"
Rip
Ledge
.......................
1
.......................
.......................
1
1
3. Identify the tools required for assembly.
Make sure that you have all of the tools you
will need. (Figure 11)
...............................
..............................
I. Cap Trim ................................
J. Loose Parts Bag* .........................
---_=a_
Medium
Screwdriver
1
_7/16,,
Wrench _//_
No. 2 Phillips
Screwdriver
i'( _--]T
llJ
Wrench
Hammer
3/4" Wrench
I::.":;,
",
..i. :_:
"
Framing
-
Square
ut_s_
3/4"' Socket
9/16" Socket
*This is the total number
Pe nci I
of loose parts bags.
Socket
Wrench
Socket
Extension
1/8"
3/16"
Fig. 11
Pliers
Hex "L"
Hex "L"
Wrench
Wrench
4. Open
the
loose
parts
bags,
and
sort
the
contents
into piles on the floor or table. This
will make it easier for you to find the part(s)
you
need
during
assembly.
A. Handwheel
Assembly
....................
B. Shaft Wrench
.............................
1
1
C. Arbor
1
Wrench
............................
J. Rip Indicator .............................
K. Bevel Indicator ...........................
2
1
L. Motor Support Cap ......................
M. Pan Hd. Screw 10-32 x 1/2 ..............
N. Lockwasher
Ext. #10 .....................
O. Plastic Cover for J-Slots .................
1
1
1
2
P. Switch
1
Key ...............................
B
©
O
D. Leveling
E. Hex Jam
F. Truss
Hd.
G. Lockwasher
H. Hex
I. Screw
Nut
Pan
Foot 3/8 ........................
Nut 3/8-16
.....................
Screw
1/4-20
Ext.
1/4-20
Hd.
x 1/2 ...........
1 / 4 ....................
.........................
By BT 1/4 x 1/2 ..........
4
8
48
48
k
48
8
M
©
©
G
Q. Right Table Rail .........................
R. Left Table Rail ...........................
1
1
S. Lock
2
Handle
With
Rods
.................
Q,R
s
T. Pan Hd.
U. Washer
V. Rubber
W. U-Clip
X. Tee Nut
Screw Ty "T" 1/ 4-20 x 1-1 / 2 ....
17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32 ..............
Bushing ..........................
1/ 4-20 ............................
..................................
5
5
5
5
3
Y. Soc. Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8 ..............
Z. Pan Hd. Screw Ty AB 1/4 x 1-1/4 .......
AA. Washer 17/64 x 3/4 x 1/16 .............
AB. Table Slide Button .....................
3
4
4
2
Information
1. If you are missing any part while putting
your saw together, do not continue assembly.
Contact your Sears Service Center or Retail
Store and get the missing part before continuing assembly or trying to use the saw.
Complete parts listing is located at the end of
this manual. Use these lists to identify the
number of any missing part.
Z
©u
y
iiiii. iiiUil z
2. Sometimes
small parts get lost in packaging materials.
Do not throw away any packaging until your saw is put together. If you
are missing a part, check the packaging before contacting
Sears.
3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be
fastened together using truss head bolts, lockwashers and hex nuts of the sizes shown.
W
(Figure 12) When different sizes are needed,
the instructions
will include a sketch to help
you locate the correct size.
AC.
AD.
AE.
AF.
AG.
Lock Nut 1/4-20 .......................
Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 3/64 ...........
Hex Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 5/8 ...........
Lockwasher
Ext. 1/4 ...................
Hex Nut 1/ 4-20 ........................
2
4
4
4
2
Fig. 12 - Truss Head Bolt, Lockwasher, Hex Nut
@@
AC
AD
©@
AE
AF
AG
4. As you assemble your radial arm saw,
some of the holes in the parts will line up and
others will not. This happens because some
parts are used in other equipment or for other
purposes. Follow the instructions
carefully.
The figures will show which holes should line
up in each step.
5. If it is difficult to get bolts through the
holes, you may need to use a Phillips screwdriver to help shift the parts into place.
Left
Ao
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
Side
Panel
.......................
1
Right
Shelf
Side Panel .....................
.................................
1
1
Under
Skirts
Support
.......................
................................
1
2
Front
Shelf
1
Corner
Stiffener
Brackets
.................
......................
Spacers ...............................
Rear Shelf Stiffener
..................
2. Place the front shelf stiffener inside and
against the front edge of the shelf so that all
six holes line up. (Figure 14)
3. Place the under support on the shelf so that
the two holes on one end line up with the
center holes on the other two parts.
(Figure 14)
4
2
1
4. Line up the four holes in the under
with the four holes in the shelf.
support
5. Place the rear shelf stiffener on the shelf so
that the two ends fit beween the edges of the
shelf and the two center holes line up with
the holes at the end of the under support.
(Figure 14)
A
6. Put truss head bolts through the eight
holes indicated. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut
on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket..
7. Put a comer bracket
shelf (Figure 15)
G
Fig. 13 - Cabinet
in each corner
Assembty
Long
1. Turn the shelf upside down on the floor.
The wide edge should point down, and the
three narrow edges should point up.
(Figure 14)
Rear Shelf
Stiffener
T
_
•
r_
End Of Shelf
, l
,
e
"
Under Support
Long
Front
Shelf
of the
_Co-_rner
Stiffener
Shelf
End Of Shelf
Bracket
Fig. 15
\
8. Put two truss head bolts through the shelf
and each comer bracket to hold the brackets
in place. Only put bolts through holes in the
long edges of the shelf not the narrow ends,
as shown. (Figure 15)
Fig. 14
10
9. Put a lockwasher
and tighten
socket.
using
and
hex nut on each
a 7/16 inch
wrench
13. Put two truss head bolts through
panel and spacer, one on each side.
bolt
or
right side
14. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut on each
bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or
socket.
10. Find the right and left side panels. Look
carefully to find the "R" and "L" stamped in
the metal near the center of the wide edge.
These stamps are the easiest way to tell the
right sidepanel
from the left. (Figure 16)
15. Put a plastic cover over the J-shaped
in the side panel. (Figure 17)
16. Repeat
steps
17. Lay
the shelf
bottom
side
18. Place
of the
The
with
on the
toward
the right
of the shelf.
inside
11-15
slot
the left sidepanel.
rear
edge
with
the
you.
side panel
spacer
cabinet.
on the right
should
(Figure
side
be on the
!8)
Fig. 16
11. Turn the right side panel
shaped slot is at the bottom
so that the Jand facing you.
12. Put a spacer inside the right side panel as
shown. The side of the spacer with two round
holes should be opposite the J-shaped
slot in
the side panel, and the side with one larger
hole should be on the bottom. (Figure 17)
Bottom Side Of Shelf
Right Side Panel
Fig. 18
Right Side Panel
19. Put bolts through the four holes along the
bottom edge of the right side panel. Put a
lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and
-Shaped Slot
Spacer
tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench
(Figure 18)
Two Round Holes
or socket.
Note: It is sometimes
difficult to get bolts
through these four holes. You may need to
use a Phillips screwdriver
to help shift the
parts into place.
iI
II
II
Plastic Cover
20. Repeat
Fig. ¢7
and
11
the
steps
18-19
with
left side
of the
shelf.
the left sidepanel
21. Turn
the cabinet
skirts to the
on the front
the back.
right
side up. Attach
the
25. Repeat
Skirt
on the left side of the
26. Put a truss head bolt through the back of
the right spacer and front edge of the shelf.
(Figure 21)
19)
.,
23-24
shelf.
top of the side panels,
with one
of the cabinet
and the other on
(Figure
steps
Rear
Right
Side Panel
t'\
f----i
Shelf
i
i
I
-3
I
I
....
s
Skirt
Shelf
Left Side Panel
/
Front
Side Panel
Fig. 19
22. Use
and
Fig. 21
eight
hex
tighten.
truss
nuts
goes
head
to hold
(Figure
23. Put a truss
the back, right
through
panel.
©
)
tP_
/
1
Spacer
I
I....
lOckwashers,
the skirts
in place.
27. Put
Hand-
a lockwasher
and tighten
socket.
19)
head bolt through
the hole at
corner
of the shelf. This hold
the shelf
(Figure
bolts,
and
the right
28. Repeat
29. Move
you
Side
steps
and
a 7/16
23-24
hex
nut
on the bolt
inch wrench
with
the
or
left spacer.
side
20)
Right
using
the
cabinet
will use your
to the location
where
saw.
30. Put a hex nut on each of the leveling feet.
(Figure 22)
Panel
Rear
@
Fig. 22 - Hex Nut for Leveling Foot
31. Put
the
leveling
feet
through
the bottom
of the side panels,
corners
of the shelf.
Front
the holes
in
at the four
Fig. 20
24. Put
a lockwasher
and tighten
socket.
using
and
a 7/16
hex
inch
nut on the
wrench
bolt
or
12
32. Put
another
leveling
feet
against
the side panels.
and
hex
nut
on each
hand-tighten
of the
until
they
are
WARNING:
Saw blade can roll for-
S
ward toward you if the leveling feet are
not correctly adjusted. Workpiece
or
saw can move unexpectedly
if cabinet
rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off from blade contact. Adjust leveling
feet before using your saw.
33. If the
leveling
saw slightly
higher
cabinet
does
If the
leveling
than
feet
cabinet
foot
than
the rear,
rocks,
go to step
the bottom
hex
using
a 9/16
the top
36. Adjust
the lower
until
the rear,
go to step
raise
35. Loosen
wrench
the front
do not
higher
34. Loosen
leveling
raise
not rock,
saw slightly
34, or
If the
feet
nut
and
if the
Handwheel
39, or
the front
of the
go to step
Fig. 23
o=
34.
nut
wrench.
Fig. 24 - Screw and External Lockwasher
by hand.
Mounting
the 9/16
foot
©
on the desired
inch
nut with
the leveling
of the
the Motor
inch
is at the desired
height.
A
37. Tighten
the top
nut
by hand.
H_
JkWARNING:
during
38. Repeat
leveling
feet
steps
34-37
for the
other
three
fingers,
if necessary.
blade
hand,
bottom
nuts
using
a 9/16
should
used.
Attaching Handwheel
alignment.
be plugged
1. Loosen
the guard
the guard
from
clamp
wrenches
1. Place the handwheel
on the front of the
saw. The front of the saw has a D-shaft that
fits into a D-slot in the handwheeL
from
threads,
clockwise
so you will have
to loosen.
2. Attach the handwheel using a screw and external lockwasher.
(Figures 23 & 24)
3. Lock
the rip lock.
4. Raise
remove
5. Clean
saw.
13
in your
cut off from
in the saw at
The saw
in when
screw
it is to be
and
remove
the motor.
2. Use the arbor
the saw.
being
Do not plug
during
only
the saw in
can result
or arm
contact.
any time
39. Tighten
all four
inch wrench.
Plugging
alignment
The
the radial
arbor
arm
the styrofoam
the small
to remove
shaft
to turn
about
packing
pieces
has
the blade
left-handed
the nut
2 inches
and
blocks.
of styrofoam
off the
6. Place
the
motor
the saw
and
remove
on the center
the three
channel
table
If the bevel
of
boards
and
yoke,
unlock
locknut
fence.
8. Slide
the motor
support.
Make
onto
sure
the motor
that
the
motor
touches
the bevel
on the
to step
7. Remove the lock nut and flat washer
the motor pivot support.
(Figure 25)
lock
9 and
motor
repeat,
the left side of the
lock
and
pivot
tighten
support.
the
Then
go
or
from
If there is more than a 1/ 16 inch gap between
the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke,
unlock
the bevel lock and loosen the locknut
pivot
is firmly
in
on the motor
and
place.
support.
Then
go to step 9
repeat.
12. Repeat
not
pivot
steps
touch
is not
more
13. Lock
9-10 until
the bevel
the left side of the yoke,
othan
the
lock
and
will
the gap
1/ 16 inch.
bevel
lock.
Mounting the Saw
5
1. Hold the saw by the front edge and the
back of the column support, and lift it onto
the cabinet. Make sure that eight holes in the
bottom of the saw line up with eight holes in
the top of the cabinet.
Fig. 25
9. Put the
flat
washer
and
locknut
place and tighten
using a 3/4 inch
wrench.
Move the bevel lock back
as you
tighten
the locknut.
Do
not
back
in
socket
and forth
2. Fasten the saw to the cabinet with eight
truss head bolts. Put a lockwasher
and hex
over-
nut on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket. (Figure 27)
tighten.
10. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it
will go. (Figure
Truss
26)
Head
Saw/
Bolt
:11!i
I1illl:
OaOnet\
"N,'
I
Lockwasher-_
Hex Nut
Cabinet
Set
(Top View)
Fig. 27
3. Check all the nuts holding the cabinet
together and tighten them using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket.
Fig. 26
11. If there is a 1/ 16 inch gap or less between
the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke
(and
they
are not touching),
go to step
13, or 14
14
Attaching Trim Ledge and
Trim Caps
4. Reach through the top of the saw and use
two screws to hold the trim cap in place.
Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver.
5. Repeat
1. Hold the trim ledge against the front of the
saw.
steps 3-4 with the left trim cap.
Mounting
2. Reach through the top of the saw and use
four screws to fasten the trim ledge in place.
Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver.
(Figures 28 & 29)
The following
table locks:
Table Locks
parts are used in mounting
A°
Lock Handles
with Rods
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
Right Table Rail ..................
Left Table Rail ...................
Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 .........
Lockwashers
1/4 ..................
Pan Head Screws 1/4x1-1/4 .........
Hex Nuts 1/4-20 ..................
Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 3/64 .........
Locknuts 1/4-20 ...................
Slide Button ......................
...........
B,C
A
the
2
1
1
4
4
4
2
4
2
2
D
E
Trim
Ledge
Fig. 28
Fig. 29 - Phillips
Head Screws
Fig. 31- Parts for Table Locks
3. Hold the right trim cap in place on the
front right side of the cabinet. (Figure 30)
1. Put a lockwasher
(Figure 32)
on a hex head bolt.
Fig. 32 - Lockwasher,
2. Lift a lock
the
hole
(Figure
Trim
Cap
Fig. 30
15
handle
in the
33)
Hex Nut, and Hex Head Bolt
and
mounting
put
plate
the bolt
through
as shown.
Eccentric
Eccentric
Circle
Tab
Circle
Slide
Button
Table
Rail
"_
Slide
Square
Hole----
Front Table - Upside Down
Lock Handle With
Mounting Plate Underneath
Fig. 34
Fig. 33
8. Push a sfide button through the small hole
in front of the eccentric circle on each table
3. Slide the rod through one of the square
holes in the front of the saw. Then put the
hex head bolt through the round hole above
it. (Figure 33)
4. Put
another
the bolt and
or socket.
5. Repeat
lockwasher
tighten
steps
with
and
a hex nut
rail.
9. Fasten the table rails to the front table
using four pan head screws and flat washers.
Tighten with a Phillips screwdriver.
(Figures 34 & 35)
on
a 7/16 inch wrench
1 - 4 on the other side of the
saw.
Fig. 35- Pan Head Screws and Washers
6. Turn the front table (44" x 17") upside
down. The top of the front table has five large
holes and seven smaller ones. This side
should be toward the floor.
7. Place the two table rails on the front table
as shown. The tabs should point toward each
other when both rails are in place, and the eccentric circles should be toward the floor.
(Figure 34)
16
Mounting
The following
front table:
Tee
A.
the Front Table
parts are used to mount
Nuts
.........................
B.
U-Clips
C.
Mounting
Screws
Rubber
Grommets
D.
E.
F.
Hex
1/4-20
Head
Washers
the
3
....................
Bolts
5
1/4-20 x l-l/2
................
1/4-20x5/8
17/64-5/8xl/32
.....
.........
5
5
2
............
B
A
Io]==
5
C
Fig. 30
D
F
E
3. Slide one U-clip over the hole in the left
side of the center channel as shown.
(Figure
4. Put a washer on each of the mounting
screws. (Figure 39)
Fig. 36 - Parts for Mounting Table
1. Place
a tee nut over
leveling
holes
(Figure
37)
and
each
hammer
38)
of the three
them
into place.
Fig. 39 - Mounting
Mounting
Leveling
Screw
and Washer
Holes
5. Stand the front table on one edge.
Holes
6. Put a mounting screw through each of the
mounting holes. Then put a rubber grommet
on the bottom of each mounting screw.
(Figure 40)
Leveling
Hole
Table Rail
Mounting
Holes
Front
Table
- Upside
Rubber
Down
Grommet
Fig. 37 - Leveling and Mounting Holes
2. Slide four U-clips over the holes in the saw
as shown. (Figure 38)
Front
Fig. 40
17
Table
On Front
Edge
7. Place the front table on the saw so that the
mounting screws line up with the U-clips. The
front table should extend about one inch
beyond the trim caps.
8. Start the mounting screws into the U-clips
using a Phillips screwdriver.
Tighten the
screws until the heads are just touching the
table. Make sure that the table is not
squeezing the rubber grommets.
Otherwise,
leveling the table later on will be difficult.
9. Start the leveling screws into the leveling
holes using a 1/8 inch Hex-L wrench. Tighten
the screws until they are flush with the table.
10. Attach the left rod to the left table rail
with a hex head bolt and flat washer. Then
put another washer and a locknut on the bolt,
and tighten using two 1/2 inch wrenches or
sockets. (Figure 41)_
Left Table Rail
\
\
Fig. 41
11. Repeat
step
10 with
the right table rail.
18
Location
and Function
of Controls
Fig. 42 - Radial Saw Controls
On/Off
AI& WARNING:
The saw can start accidentally or be used by children and
others when the yellow key is left in the
red switch. Always remove the yellow
key when the saw is off, and keep it out
of the reach and sight of children.
Switch
The on!off switch turns the power to the saw
on and off.
To turn the saw on, put the yellow key into
the red switch and then pull the switch to the
right. To turn the saw off, push the red switch
to the left. Remove the yellow key from the
red switch whenever
the saw is turned off, and
keep it out of the reach and sight of children.
(Figure 43)
£L
AI& WARNING:
The saw will start immediately when the power comes back
on after a blackout if the red switch is
left on. Always turn the switch off and
remove the yellow key when the power
goes off for any reason,
Miter
Lock
The miter lock is used to hold the radial
at various
arm
angles to the fence.
To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the
right. (Figure 44)
Fig. 43 - On/Off Switch
19
Bevel Lock
The bevel lock is used to hold the blade
at
various angles to the table. To unlock the
bevel lock, move the lock to the right. Always
hold the motor when you unlock the bevel
lock. (Figure 46)
'_, CAUTION'
The motor
is heavy
and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured by the arbor shaft or blade.
Hold the motor when you unlock the
bevel lock.
Fig. 44 - Miter Lock - Unlocked
To lock the miter lock, push the lock to the
left. (Figure 45)
Fig. 46-
Bevel Lock
- Unlocked
To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the
left. (Figure 47)
Fig. 45 - Miter
Lock
- Locked
There are three pre-set miter angles
0°, and -45 °. You will feel the radial
at 45 °,
arm
snap into position at these miter angles. To
unlock the arm when it is in one of these positions, pull the miter lock all the way to the
right and move the arm as you hold the lock
in this position.
Fig. 47 - Bevel
2O
Lock
- Locked
swivel lock when the motor
There are five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,
-45 °, 0°, 45 °, and 90 °. To unlock the bevel
lock when the blade is at one of these angles,
move the bevel lock all the way to the right
and turn the motor while holding the lock in
this position.
Swivel
is in one of these
positions, stand facing the saw handle, pull
the swivel lock all the way toward you, and
turn the motor as you hold the lock in this
position.
Rip Lock
Lock
The rip lock is used to hold the motor and
blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.
It is used during ripping to hold the blade a
desired distance from the fence while the
The swivel lock is used to hold the blade in
the crosscut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and
to position the blade for molding or edging.
To unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the
saw handle and pull the swivel sock toward
you. (Figure 48)
workpiece is fed through. It is used before
and after each crosscut to keep the blade
from moving forward on its own.
To unlock the rip lock, pull the handle
the front of the arm. (Figure 50)
toward
Fig. 48 - Swivel Lock - Unlocked
To lock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw
handle and push the swivel lock away from
you. (Figure 49)
Fig. 50 - Rip Lock - Unlocked
To lock the rip lock, push the handle
the rear of the arm. (Figure 51)
Fig. 49- Swivel
Lock
- Locked
The crosscut, in-rip, and out-rip positions of
the blade are pre-set positions. To unlock the
Fig. 51- Rip Lock
21
- Locked
toward
Handwheel
The handwheel
radial arm.
controls the height of the
To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel
clockwise. To lower the radial arm, turn the
handwheel counterclockwise.
(Figure 52)
Fig. 52- Handwheel
One complete turn of the handwheel
the arm 1/16 inch.
moves
The handle can be folded in by pushing the
red button while pushing the handle in.
All Controls
Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks
before making a cut on your radial arm saw.
When ripping, the rip lock must also be locked. When crosscutting,
the rip lock should be
locked before and after each cut, when the
saw is in the rearmost position.
22
Alignment
of the Blade
1. Use a 1/8" hex "L"wrench
to loosen
four screws in the front of the column
The blade of your radial arm saw must be
aligned properly for two reasons: to make
cuts accurate, and to prevent binding of the
blade and workpiece
which can cause jams or
thrown workpieces.
support.
(Figure
the
53)
Four Socket
These adjustments
must be done in order,
before using your saw for the first time. If
they are not done in order the saw will not
cut accurately. If you miss an adjustment,
you
must go back to the adjustment
you missed
and repeat all steps from that point on.
These adjustments are like fine tuning a
piece of equipment. Often a series of steps
must be repeated more than once in order to
get the adjustment just right.
WARNING:
Plugging
2. Raise and lower the radial arm by turning
the handwheel a few turns in each direction.
It should take about the same amount of effort to lower the arm as to raise it.
the saw in
during alignment can result in your
fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from
blade contact. Do not plug in the saw at
any time during alignment. The saw
should only be plugged in when it is to be
used.
3. If movement
seems smooth and the
column does not rock back and forth, go to
the next section, or
If movement
seems difficult, loosen the four
bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 54) and go back to step 2, or
Make sure that the blade and blade guard are
removed from the arbor shaft before beginning to align your saw. Do not install the
blade or blade guard until you are instructed
to do so.
Adjusting
If column rocks back and forth, tighten the
four bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 54) and go back to step 2.
Elevation
The goal of this adjustment
is to make upward and downward movement
of the radial
arm smooth and firm. If the column that supports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to
move the arm up and down and to get accurate depth of cut. If the column is loose the
blade may "walk" on the workpiece
and stall
the motor, or cause a heel in bevel and compound cuts.
23
3. Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor.
Hold onto the motor as you do this.
Leveling Front Table.
The goal of this adjustment
is to make the
front work table flat and parallel to the radial
arm. In order to do this, you will choose four
points on the table. When these four points
are level, the entire table should be level.
You will use two methods to make the four
points level:
'_
CAUTION:
The motor is heavy and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the arbor shaft hits you.
Hold the motor when you unlock the
bevel lock.
4. Turn the motor until the arbor shaft is
pointing straight down toward the table.
(Figure 56)
• Tighten the mounting screws which pull
down on the table making a given point
lower. (Figure 55)
• Tighten the leveling screws which push
up on the table making a given point
higher. (Figure 55)
Screws
I_
et
5 Mounting
Leveling
°e_
Screws
_lle
o
Fig. 56
Fig. 55
5. Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor in
1. Loosen the three leveling screws and be
sure that the five mounting screws are snug
but not overtightened.
this position.
6. Draw two lines on the front table, over the
table rails. (Figure 56)
2. Raise the radial arm until the bottom of
the motor is about 2-1/2 inches above the
front table.
7. Unlock the rip lock and pull the motor
to the end of the arm.
24
out
8. Unlock
the right
line.
the miter
until
lock
the arbor
and
shaft
swing
the
is over
9. Mark the point on the line under
ter of the arbor shaft.
10. Move
the
shaft
is over
front
table.
arm
the
and motor
right
line
until
arm
the
18. Move the arbor shaft over another point.
Do not change the elevation of the arm.
to
right
19. Tighten the mounting screws and/or leveling screws until the handle of the arbor
wrench just fits between this point and the
arbor shaft. The wrench should slide back and
forth with slight contact. Use a 1/8 inch
Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling screws.
the cen-
the
at the rear
arbor
of the
20. Repeat
11. Mark the point on the line under the center of the arbor shaft.
12. Repeat
13. Label
steps
7-11
the points
on the
left
steps
18-19 for the last two points.
21. Lay the edge of the rear table across the
front edge of the front table. There should be
no gaps between the two.
side.
A, B, C, and D.
22. If you see a gap larger than 1/32 inch,
tighten the center mounting screw and/or the
leveling screws until the gap is gone. Use a 1/8
inch Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling
screws. (Figure 58)
14. Move the arbor shaft over these points
again, and measure the distance between the
table and the bottom of the arbor shaft at
each. Do not change the elevation of the arm
as you move from point to point.
15. Determine
which point has the largest distance between the table and the arbor shaft.
This is the lowest point.
16. Move the arbor shaft over the lowest
point.
17. Place the handle
end of the arbor wrench
over this point and lower the arm until the
arbor shaft is just touching the wrench. The
wrench should slide back and forth with slight
contact. (Figure 57)
Fig. 58
23. Repeat steps 21-22 at the rear edge of the
front table.
24. Unlock
the bevel lock and return
the
motor to its original position with the arbor
shaft parallel to the table. (Figure 59)
Fig. 57
25
2. Lock
table
the table
locks,
locks.
If you
go directly
to step
cannot
lock
the
5.
3. Pull up on the fence.
4. If the fence is held firmly, no change is
needed. Go to the next section, or
o
o
If the fence is loose and can be pulled
position, go to step 5.
out of
5. Unlock the table locks.
6. Loosen the nuts under
using a 7/16 inch wrench
(Figure 60)
Fig. 59
25. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock, swivel lock
and miter lock.
Adjusting
the circular clamps
or socket.
3/16 Inch
Table Locks
The table locks are designed to hold the rear
table, spacer, and fence in place while cutting. There are circular clamps at the back of
the table which are controlled
by the table
locks. When locked, these clamps put pressure on the rear table to hold it and the other
pieces in place. If the
close to the rear table,
locked. If they are too
locks will not hold the
_llb WARNING:
circular clamps are too
the locks cannot be
far from the table, the
pieces firmly in place.
Workpiece,
Fig. 60
7. Turn each clamp until there is a 3/16 inch
space between the clamp and the rear table.
Make sure that the rear table, fence and
spacer are firmly against the front table.
(Figure 60)
rear table,
fence, and/or spacer can shift during use
if table clamps are left loose. Your hands
may slip, and could be cut off by blade
contact. Table locks must be adjusted to
hold rear table, fence and spacer firmly in
place.
1. Put
the fence
spacer
and
in the front
rear table
behind
position,
and
8. Tighten each clamp with a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket.
9. Go back to step 2 and repeat until rear
table, spacer and fence are held firmly in
place.
the
it.
26
Squaring
Crosscut
Travel
_i_ CAUTION:
The blade must travel perpendieular
to the
fence along the radial arm in order for crosscuts to be accurate. If the radial arm is not
nuts may
warp and
ting. Use
the arbor
perpendicular
to the fence, there will be a
slight miter angle in all crosscuts.
4.
_l_ WARNING"
Plugging
tion and
the radial
lock
the
arm
miter
directional
blade,
front
arrow
and the
side
teeth
6.
is over
arbor shaft
Make sure
are pointing
(Figure
and
move
the front
the motor
table.
above
miter
the radial
arm
the front
table.
lock
until
and
bevel
the blade
is
7. Lay a framing square on the front table
with the long edge along the back of the table
and the short edge alongside the blade.
(Figure 62)
posi-
with a
that the
8. Move the framing
square
toward
until a tooth of the blade just touches
of the
down
the rip lock,
Lower
just
lock.
is on the outside
of the blade.
5. Lock
lock.
your fingers,
from blade
saw at any
saw should
is to be used.
in the 0 ° miter
2. Place the blade on the
blade collar on each side.
the rip lock
the blade
in the saw dur-
ing alignment
can result in
hands, or arm being cut off
contact. Do not plug in the
time during alignment.
The
only be plugged in when it
1. Place
the arbor
cause the blade collars to
the blade to wobble while cutthe arbor wrenches to tighten
nuts but do not overtighten.
Unlock
until
Overtightening
at the
of the square.
61)
9.
Mark
10.
back
move
this tooth
Unlock
and
(Figure
62)
with a pencil.
the rip lock
forth
along
the framing
the blade
the edge
the
and
move
radial
the
arm.
motor
Do not
square.
I I. If the marked tooth just touches the
square at all points, no change is needed.
to step 15, or
Go
If the marked tooth moves away from the
square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go to
step 12 (Figure 62)
Fig. 61
3.
Place
the arbor
use the arbor
shaft
have
nut on the
wrenches
arbor
to tighten.
shaft
The
has left-handed
threads,
so you
to turn the nut counterclockwise
tighten.
and
arbor
will
to
Do not overtighten.
27
If the blade tried to "walk"
on the square,
tighten the top left screw to move the arm to
the right. Then tighten the top right screw to
meet the column. Go to step 14.
14.
Move
radial
the motor
arm.
Repeat
tooth
just
Then
go to step
15.
touches
Tighten
back
step
the
forth
13 until
square
along
the
the marked
at all points.
15.
the bottom
the column
left several
and
screws
support,
switching
times so that you
in the front
of
from right
do not force
to
the
radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten
it will be difficult
to raise and lower the
radial
four
screws
slightly,
"L"wrench
in the front
if you
Adjusting
hex
have
Elevation
to loosen
of the column
not already
section.
done
(Figure
arm.
16. Raise and lower the radial arm. If this is
difficult, loosen the four screws in the front
of the column support slightly and try again.
Loosen all of these screws the same amount
so that you do not force the radial arm out of
line.
Fig. 62
12. Use a 1/8"
or
the
support
so in the
63)
17. Repeat step 16 until movement
of the
radial arm is smooth but firm. Then go to
step ! 8.
_
/
LL_
,d_
Four Socket
Head Screws
18.
Lay
a framing
with
the
long edge
and the short
before.
square
on the front
along
edge
the back
alongside
table
of the table
the blade,
19. Move the framing
square
toward
blade,
and rotate the blade with your
until
...........................
i _LT__L___ __Fig. 63
marked
tooth
the edge
of the blade
the
hand,
just
of the square.
_-----___
20.
13. Use the top two screws
radial arm into line:
the
touches
as
radial
to move the
21.
Move
the motor
arm.
If the blade moved away from the square,
tighten the top right screw to move the arm to
the left. Then tighten the top left screw to
meet the column. Go to step 14, or
Do not move
If the marked
of the square
If the marked
back
tooth
forth
just
moves
touches
go to step
away
from
edge of the square or tries to "walk"
of it, go back to step 13 and repeat.
28
along
the
the square.
at all points,
tooth
and
the edge
22,
or
the
on top
22. Set miter indicator
shown. (Figure 64)
on 0° position
as
4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure
66) Go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between the square
the blade after any rotation
(Figure
to step 6.
Fig. 64
and the
66), go
Right
23. Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence
and rear table back in place, lock the table
clamp, and go to the next section.
Square
I
[
Table
Squaring Blade to Table
for Crosscutting
Wrong
These steps are necessary
so that your blade
will be perpendicular
to the table and cuts
will be accurate.
If this is not done correctly,
your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.
1. Put the radial
with
the blade
arm
over
in the 0 ° miter
the front
Wrong
Square
I
j II_'L___--_
--/
Square
r
Table
Table
Fig. 66
position
6. Unlock
table.
the
bevel
lock,
but
do not move
tile
motor.
2. Lock
the table
3. Place the long
on the table and
blade. Make sure
the blade surface
(Figure 65)
clamps
edge of
the short
that the
and not
and
rip lock.
7. Loosen the four screws behind the yoke
using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench. (Figure 67)
the flaming square
edge against the
square is against
the set of a tooth.
4 Socket
_Setscrews
Framing
Square
@
J
Fig. 67
8. Hold the square in place and move the
motor slowly until tile square is flush with tile
blade.
Fig. 65
29
If there
9. Hold the motor tightly and lock the bevel
lock. Do not let the motor move out of place.
blade
is a gap
after
between
any
the
rotation,
square
go back
and
the
to step
6 and
repeat.
10. Check the square to make
still flush with the blade.
11. Tighten
12. Raise
1-1/2
sure that it is
the four screws behind
the radial
inches
above
arm
the
until
19. Install
one
bevel
into
scale
indicator
the opening
by inserting
in the yoke.
Slide
the
indicator
to one side and push until it snaps in
place. Tabs are located
on the outside
of the
the yoke.
the blade
end
opening.
is
Adjust
to 0 ° position.
table.
indicator
(Figure
by sliding
red line
69)
13. Unlock the bevel lock and move the motor
to the 45 ° bevel position. (Figure 68)
_,
CAUTION:
The motor
is heavy and
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the
motor when you unlock the bevel lock.
Fig. 69
Squaring
Blade
to Fence
These steps are done so that your blade will
be perpendicular
to the fence. This will help
reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and
splintering
of the workpiece
and burning of
the kerf when ripping and crosscutting.
Fig. 68
14. Move the motor back to the 0° bevel position and lock the bevel lock.
15. Lower
just above
the radial arm until the blade is
the table.
Fig. 70 - Squaring
Blade
to Fence
16. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade as before. Make sure the square is
against the surface of the blade and not the
set of a tooth.
1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position
with the blade just in front of the fence.
(Figure 70)
17. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
3. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the bla&, just above
the arborsh@.
Make sure that the edge of
the square is on the blade and not on the set
of a tooth. (Figure 70)
18. if the square
each
rotation,
is flush
go to Step
with the blade
2. Lock
after
19, or
30
the
rip lock.
4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure
71) Go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation, go to step 6.
(Figure 71)
Fence
Fig. 72
I
Square
8. Hold the square in place and turn the
motor until the square is flush with the blade.
Right
Fence
9. Hold the saw handle
swivel lock.
Fence
%
Square
tightly and lock the
Square
10. Check the square
flush with the blade.
Wrong
to make sure it is still
Wrong
11. Tighten
using
Fig. 71
the four
a 1/8 inch
screws
hex-L
under
wrench.
the yoke
Do
not use
pliers!
6. Unlock
the swivel
lock.
12. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above
the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the
edge of the square is on the blade and not on
the set of a tooth.
7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke
using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if
necessary. (Figure 72)
l'k
_
4ULWARNINL_:
The hex-L wrench may
break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety goggles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.
13. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
14. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, go to the next section, or
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
31
Squaring
1. Unlock
the swivel
to the
out-rip
tween
the
4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Blade to Table for
Ripping
lock
position
blade
and
with
and fence.
turn
the motor
the motor
(Figure
5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation
(Figure 75) go to step 11, or
be-
73)
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation
(Figure 75), go to
step 6.
L I
Right
I_
Table
Wrong
I
_M_
Wrong
l' _k.
Fence
L I
H_
/
Fence
Table
Table
Fig. 73 - Out-rip Position
2. Lock swivel
lock
Fig. 75
and rip lock.
6. Loosen the hex nut on the rear carriage
bearing. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the
bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut.
(Figure 76)
3. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade alongside the arbor shaft. Make sure
the square is against the surface of the blade
and not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 74)
[
Fig. 76
I
Fig. 74
32
Fence
hand. Try to keep the carriage bearing from
turning.
7. Hold the square in place and use the 9/16
inch wrench to turn the bolt until the square
is flush with the blade.
8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten
nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.
9. Turn the blade several
see if the square
times
15. If you can keep either of the carriage bearings from turning while the motor moves
along the radial arm, go to step 16, or
the hex
and check to
If you cannot keep the carriage bearings from
turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.
is still flush with the blade.
16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each carriage bearing, and the track they ride on, with
a cloth to remove sawdust and other debris.
Oil if necessary.
10. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, go to step 11, or
If there is a gap between the square
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
and the
17. Loosen the hex nut on the carriage bearing that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to
hold the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen
the nut.
11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
as far back as it will go.
12. Pinch the front carriage bearing with your
fingers as tightly as possible while you pull
the motor forward with the other hand. Try to
keep the carriage bearing from turning.
(Figure 77)
18. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench
until the looseness is gone.
19. Hold the bolt firmly with the 9/16 inch
wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2
inch wrench. Do not overtighten.
20. Adjust the other carriage bearing by the
same amount so that the blade will still be
square
with the table.
21. Repeat steps 11-15 to make sure that the
carriage bearings are not still loose.
22. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the
blade just above the arbor shaft, as before.
Make sure the square is against the surface of
the blade and not on the set of a tooth.
23. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Fig . 77
13. Move the motor
as far forward
as it will
24. If the square is flush with the blade, go to
the next section, or
go.
14. Pinch the rear carriage bearing with your
fingers as tightly as possible while you pull
the motor toward the rear with the other
If there is a gap between the square
Olade, go back to step 6 and repeat.
33
and the
Making
Blade Parallel
Table
to
J-;:-
These steps are done to help prevent the
workpiece
from being thrown or damaged
when the saw is used for edging.
/_............
_
Saw Ha
/
>,,,,,/--,il _ Ld
I'1
k___!_,
'_",
I
I
II-_P] -'_
I I
I
IV'-"
I
LI
aYi.._P_
-__
,r'
--%
_--_- -: _- _"
Framing Square
I
b ==_! I
Fig. 79
6. Lower the radial arm until the blade just
rests on the edge of the framing square.
Make sure that the square is on the blade
and not on the set of a tooth.
7. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
Fig. 78
1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position.
8. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation
(Figure 80) go to step 18, or
2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2
inches above the front table.
If there is a gap between
blade after any rotation
step 9.
3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor
so that the blade is parallel to the table.
(Figure 78)
the square and the
(Figure 80) go to
Right
,_
CAUTION:
The motor
is heavy
and
Square
can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the
motor when you unlock the bevel lock.
"X_
_
Motor
Table
4. Lock
the bevel
lock,
rip lock
and swivel
Wrong
lock.
5. Place the corner of the framing square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air. Make sure that the
long edge is perpendicular
to the fence.
(Figure 79)
Wrong
Square
Square
/__tOr\nc_i
]
__M°t°r
Fe_l
Table
Fig. 80
34
Table
9. Unlock
10. Loosen
the bevel
lock.
16. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.
the two screws on the back of the
motor support using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench
and pliers if necessary.
(Figure 81)
_l_ WARNING"
The hex-L wrench
17. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, go to step 18, or
may
If there is a gap between the square and the
blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.
break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety goggles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.
18. Snap the motor support cap into the back
of the motor support.
The cap is in the loose
parts
bag.
(Figure
82)
Saw
Handle
Saw Handle
/
/
Motor Support
Capscrews
Motor Support
Motor Support
Cap
Fig. 81
Fig. 82
11. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower
the bottom side of the motor support until the
square is flush with the blade.
12. Hold
lock.
the motor
Installing
Guard / Setting
Spreader
firmly and lock the bevel
The blade guard and the spreader are very
important safety features of your saw. The
guard covers a large part of the blade and
reduces the risk of amputation.
The spreader
rides in the kerf of the cut wood during ripping, and helps keep the two sides from
pinching the blade and causing a kickback.
13. Check the square to make sure that it is
still flush with the blade.
14. Tighten the two screws on the back of the
motor support. Do not use pliers!
15. Place the corner of the framing square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure
that the long edge is perpendicular
to the
WARNING"
Fingers, hand or arm
can be cutoff from blade contact if the
blade guard is not used properly. Always
put the proper blade guard on your saw
and adjust it correctly.
fence.
35
/k
WARNING:
Kickback
can occur
if
3. Make sure that the lower edge of the guard
is parallel to the table. (Figure 85)
the spreader is not in line with the
blade. You can be injured or killed. Always adjust the spreader and make sure
that it is directly in line with the blade.
1. Loosen
longer
the guard
touches
clamp
the metal
screw
plate.
until
(Figure
4. Tighten
the guard clamp screw.
5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor
to the in-rip position, with the blade between
the motor and the fence. (Figure 85)
it no
83)
,\
Guard
Clamp
Screw
Metal
Plate
Fig. 83
Fig. 85 - In-rip Position
2. Place the guard over the blade. You will
feel the guard fall into place when the ridge
on the inside of the guard slides into the slot
on the motor. (Figure 84)
6. Lock
the
swivel
lock.
7. Lower
the radial
above the table.
arm
until
the blade
is just
8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
back until the blade touches the fence.
9. Lock
the
rip lock.
10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the
spreader in place.
11. Lower the spreader and antikickback
pawls until the spreader is against the fence,
and the pawls on one side of the spreader are
on top of the fence. (Figure 86)
Fig. 84
36
13. Loosen both nuts on the spreader
1/2 inch wrench.
using a
14. Slide
until
the spreader
is against
the fence
with your
directly
hand
behind
the
it
blade.
15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch
wrench. Do not move the spreader as you
tighten these nuts.
ISpreader
16. Check the blade and spreader again to
make sure that they are both against the
fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat.
Table
/
17. Once the blade and spreader are in line,
raise the spreader up to the guard and tighten
the wing screw to hold it in place.
Fig. 86
18. Unlock
12. If the spreader and blade both rest against
the fence, no adjustment
is needed. (Figure
87 -A) Go to step 17, or
the rip lock.
19. Pull the motor forward
so that the blade is
away from the fence and lock the rip lock.
If the spreader
touching
is in front
it (Figure
87-B),
of the .[once
go to step
but not
20. Unlock
13, or
the swivel
lock.
21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon
with the blade and arm perpendicular
to the
fence.
If the spreader hits the top of the fence
(Figure
87-C), go to step 13.
A - Right
22. Lock
I
Pawl--.--_ _
Fence -----[
......
Yablel
Spreader
i
Saw Blade
B - Wron¢
C - Wrong
U
L
Pawl ..__l_ti
_-_i!_Spreader
Fence -_I
__
Table t
Saw Blade
Pawl
Fence
Table
Spreader
J
Saw Blade
Fig. 87
37
the swivel
lock.
Installing
tors
and Adjusting
3. Measures 2" from rip fence to nearest
tooth on the blade and lock rip lock handle.'
Rip Scale Indica-
NOTE: The rip scales indicators
are intended
to be used for quick settings. Adjustments
will be necessary for blades of different thicknesses. For greater accuracy take direct measurements between blade and fence with ruler
or measuring
4.
Adjust
ing until
upper
indicator
of the two
trated.
Out
of arm.
rip"
scale
indicator
line reads
"out
rip"
rip scales
are
by slid-
2 inches
scales
on the
as illus-
located
on left
side
tape.
5. Unlock
rip lock and move blade
from fence.
Unlock
the swivel
lock
1. Locate rip scale indicators
in a loose parts
bag and slide indicators onto mounting brackets.
the motor to the IN-RIP
position.
swivel
lock. Push the motor until
rests
2. Unlock
"out
the swivel
blade into the OUT-RIP
swivel lock.
against
away
and rotate
Lock the
the blade
the fence.
lock and move the
position.
6.
Lock the
Adjust
"in-rip"
scale
indicator
on right side of arm) by sliding
line reads "0"
inches.
®1
2 Inches
Fig. 88 - Out-Rip Saw Position (Infeed End)
38
until
(located
indicator
Electrical
Connections
,_, WARNING:
Motor Specifications
The
start,
AC
motor
used
type
having
the
following
Power
_i,
WARNING:
1.5
2.5
120
11.5
60
Single
3450
Clockwise
3-Prong
Grounding
Prong
Properly
Grounded
Outlet
the factory for 120V operation. Connect
to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and
use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit
breaker. Failure to connect in this way
can result in injury from shock or fire.
Fig. 89 - Plug for Less
This
Your saw must be properly grounded. Not all
outlets are properly grounded.
If you are not
sure that your outlet is properly grounded,
have it checked by a qualified electrician.
power
conductor
tool
cord
If not properly
with a 3-
grounding
Laboratories.
conductor
has a green
to the tool
housing
ground
prong
other end.
Than 150V
is equipped
and
by Underwriters'
grounded this power tool can cause
electrical shock, particularly when used
in damp locations.
£L
Plug
Supply
Your saw is wired at
_lb WARNING:
in
Your unit is wired for 120V and it has a plug
that looks like the one shown below. (Figure
89)
specifications:
Rated H.P ..........................
Maximum
Developed
H.P .............
Voltage
...........................
Amperes
..........................
Hertz (cycles)
.......................
Phase ...........................
RPM .............................
Rotation of Arbor Shaft .........
or fire, if
power cord is worn, cut, or damaged
any way have it replaced immediately.
in this saw is a capacitor-
non-reversible
To avoid shock
in the
jacket
at one end
attachment
type
plug
The
ground
and
listed
is attached
and
to the
plug at the
This plug requires a mating 3-conductor
grounded
type outlet as shown above. If you
have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it
is recommended
that you have a qualified
electrician
replace the it with a properly
grounded
three prong outlet.
_
A&WARNING:
If an electrical shock occurs, your reaction to the shock may
bring your hands into contact with the
blade.
39
_1_ WARNING:
Extension
To maintain proper
tool grounding, whenever the outlet you
are planning to use for this power tool
is of the two prong type do not remove
or alter the grounding prong in any manner.
The use of any extension cord will cause
some loss of power. Use the following table
to determine the minimum wire size
(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire extension cords which have 3-prong grounding
type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which accept the tool's plug.
An adapter is available for connecting
plug to
2-prong receptacles.
The green grounding
lead extending from the adapter must be connected to a permanent
ground such as to a
properly grounded
outlet box. (Figure 90)
Length of
Conductor
/
3-Prong
Plug _:_'_
__'
__"""_
_!1_
/
51-
Lug
_
MakeSureZhisls
_lr_--":-_'-- Connected
I_(_')11
Known
Ground
2-Prong
Receptacle
Fig. 90 - Adapter for 2-Prong Receptacles
WARNING:
The adapter
sizes Required
(American
Wire
Gage
No.)
100 feet
No. 16
No. 14
No.
12
For circuits that are farther away from electrical circuit box, the wire size must be increased proportionately
in order to deliver
ample voltage to the saw motor.
To A
Adapter
'_
Wire
120V Lines
0 - 25 feet
26 - 50 feet
Grounding
Cords
illustrated
is for use only if you already have a
properly
grounded
2-prong receptacle.
4O
Crosscutting
Crosscutting
is used to cut a workpiece
to
length. The workpiece
is held against the
fence. The saw blade is pulled through the
workpiece. Cuts are usually made across the
grain of the workpiece.
Types of Crosscuts
The basic types of crosscuts are shown below.
Notice the hand and body position in each.
Fig. 93 Bevel Crosscut
Fig. 91 Straight Crosscut
Fig. 94 Compound Crosscut
Miter
Fig. 95 Basic Crosscuts
i
Fig. 92 Miter
Crosscut
41
Bevel
Safety Information
Crosscutting
4. Fingers or hand can slip into the saw
blade as you make a crosscut. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the
hand holding the workpiece
at least 8 inches to the side of the workpiece,
out of
the path of the saw blade. Keep hand
holding the workpiece
in view at all
times.
for
Read and follow the safety information
before making any type of crosscut.
below
_lb WARNING
1. Set guard and anti-kickback
pawls to
proper height to serve as a partial barrier.
5. The blade can come completely off
table edge beyond
the 30 ° left miter
position.
Fingers, hands, arms or legs
can be cut off. Use the right miter position whenever possible to make miter
crosscuts.
2. The saw blade can throw the
workpiece
over the fence if the blade is
pushed backwards
into workpiece.You
or others can be hit and injured by the
thrown workpiece.
Start a crosscut with
the blade in its rearmost position.
6. The blade continues to turn for about
12 seconds after the saw is turned
off. Wait for the blade to stop before
reaching for the workpiece.
3. If the blade is pulled through the
workpiece
beyond the middle of the
blade, it can:
7. If length stops are used on the cut-off
end of workpiece,
the cut-off end can
be thrown by the blade. The workpiece
could hit and injure you or others in the
area. Do not use a length stop on the
cut-off end of the workpiece.
Use a
length stop only on the end of the
workpiece
which is held down.
• pick up and throw the cut-off section of the workpiece which could
hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;
• lift or move the held-down section
of the workpiece
and pull your
hand into the blade as the blade
is returned. Pull the saw blade
through the workpiece to the distance shown below.
8. Holding on to or touching the cut off
end of the workpiece while the saw
blade is still turning can cause the
workpiece
to pinch the blade. The
workpiece
can be thrown and hit and injure you or others in the area. Do not
touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cutoff piece of the workpiece while the
power is on or the saw blade is turning.
9. The saw can throw the workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade
violently. You can be blinded. Wear
safety goggles.
Fig. 96 Blade
Distance
to Complete
Crosscut
42
Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback
Pawls and Spreader
10. The workpiece
cannot be controlled
or held stable enough to do free hand
cutting. The workpiece
can be thrown or
slip and pull fingers and hand into the
saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut
off. Set the radial arm to the desired
cutting angle. Keep workpiece
flat on
table and solidly against the fence.
The blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate
the risk of injury from contact with the upper
half of the blade and the leading edge of the
blade when:
11. Saw parts loosen and wear with
use. You or others can be injured. Keep
all parts tight and in working order.
• the guard
and;
is in the horizontal
• the pawls and spreader
are set to
clear the top of the fence and
workpiece by about 1/8 inch.
12. The fence must be of at least equal
height to the workpiece or else the
workpiece can be lifted or thrown and hit
and injure you or others in the area. See
Cutting Accessories section for instructions to make a fence.
The Blade Guard:
• provides protection
from contact
the upper half of the blade;
13. The blade will try to pull itself
through the workpiece.
Be prepared to
hold the saw handle back to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.
• helps keep the workpiece
ming in the guard and;
14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or
else the blade will suddenly come
toward you when you lower it to make a
crosscut.
The Anti-kickback
• serve
£k
A
chips
Bar, Pawls and Spreader:
as a partial
protection
from
ing edge
of the
WARNING:
with
from jam-
• helps catch or deflect workpiece
or pieces of the blade.
15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep
one hand on the saw handle to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.
16. Cutting more than one workpiece at
a time can cause you to lose control of
the workpieces, which can be thrown
and hit and injure you or others in the
area. Cut only one workpiece at a time.
Do not stack or lay workpieces edge to
edge.
position
barrier
contact
to provide
with
the
lead-
blade.
To reduce
the risk of
contact with the upper half of the blade
and keep the workpiece
from jamming
in the guard, set the blade guard in the
horizontal position. Fig. 100.
43
Crosscutting
Use
the
following
checklist
of each new cutting
of an accident.
Yellow
ChecMist
period
key removed
Saw unplugged
Cutting Table and Fence
Kerfs
at the beginning
to reduce
the
You will need to cut a new table kerf (shallow cut) and fence kerf (slot left in the fence
from sawing through it with the blade), each
time a new cutting angle is used. The table
kerf lets the blade cut all the way through a
workpiece.
risk
from red switch.
and switch off.
No play in the carriage bearings, motor
support or column. See Alignment
of the
Blade section for instructions.
Arm slo_s
to side.
to the rear and table level side
Blade sharp.
Fen_.se_re,
eonditiom
•
solid (knot free)
and in
iI _
Fig. 97 Table and Fence Kerfs
good
Note: To extend the life of your table top,
you can make an additional table top. See
Helpful Hints section.
.-ence in correct table position.
not extend
above
the top
Making
ting
position
Table and Fence
Kerfs for Crosscut-
and
To make a crosscut kerf in your table and
fence:
1. Put your fence between the front table and
spacer board. Lock the table locks.
2. Push the saw to the rearmost
hind the fence.
bevel and table locks
3. Lock rip lock.
to do.
44
position,
be-
_i,
WARNING:
The saw blade
8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm
in line with the saw handle as shown below.
will sud-
denly come toward you when lowered
into the table if the rip lock is unlocked.
Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock
the rip lock before and after each
crosscut.
Fig. 100 Crosscut
Blade
Guard and Body Position
I'k
Fig. 98 Locked
4. Lower
most
the
touches
Position
radial
the
arm
table
WARNING:
Saw blade can suddenly come toward you when turned on.
Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.
Keep one hand on the saw handle at all
times.
for Rip Lock
until
the
blade
al-
top.
9. Turn the saw on.
5. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet. Check
Electrical Connections
section of manual if
you are not sure the outlet
6. Wear safety goggles
on the package.
10. Lower the saw arm slowly until the blade
touches the table.
is grounded.
labeled
ANSI Z87.1
11. Turn the handwheel
another 1/2 turn
more. This will let you make a 1132 to 1/16
inch kerf in the table.
,'k
A
WARNING:
The saw can throw the
workpiece,
workpiece
chips or pieces of
the blade violently.
You can be
blinded. Wear safety goggles.
12. Unlock
rip lock.
13. Pull the saw blade forward through the
fence and along the table as far as it will go.
14. Return the saw blade
tion behind the fence.
Blade throws
objects violently.
to its rearmost
posi-
15. Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the
saw handle.
Wear safety
goggles.
Fig. 99 Safely Goggles
7. Insert
16. Wait for blade
Safely Sign
to stop turning.
17. Lock rip lock.
18. Remove
yellow key into the red switch.
45
yellow key from red switch.
4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickback
pawls to clear top of fence and workpiece by
about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help
provide protection from the leading edge of
blade.
Making Crosscuts
The following section contains safety information and instructions for making crosscuts.
Anyone who uses your saw should read and
follow these steps.
5. Plug saw into grounded
WARNING:
horizontal
contact
The
to provide
with
blade
guard
protection
the upper
be
the workpiece
being
the blade.
horizontal
Set the blade guard
position.
Fig. 100.
The anti-kickback
jammed
7. Place the workpiece
in the
8. Unlock
B
C
"i
ql
rip lock.
Zk
_
&lkWARNIN(3:
The saw blade tries to
pull itself through the workpiece.
Be
prepared to hold saw handle back to
keep the saw blade from coming toward
you. Keep one hand on the saw handle
at all times.
and
WARNING:
The fence must be at
least equal height or higher than the
workpiece
you are going to cut or else
the workpiece
can be thrown and injure
you or others in the area. Install a fence
of at least equal height to the workpiece.
1. Put your fence in position
lock the table locks.
the fence.
9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your
forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.
pawls
pawls to clear the top of the fence
workpiece
by about 1/8 inch.
against
in
serve as a barrier for the leading edge
or the blade. Set the anti-kickback
A
6. Put on safety goggles.
from
half of the blade
and avoid
DANGER:
must
outlet.
A
_
&IWARNIN(3:
If the saw blade is pulled
through the workpiece
beyond the middle of the saw blade, it can:
A as shown and
A
• pick up and throw the cut-off section of the workpiece which could
hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;
I
• lift or move the held-down section
of the workpiece and draw your
hand into the blade as the blade
is returned.
Fig. 101 Fence Position for Crosscut
2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, behind the fence.
3. Lower the blade into but not touching the
table kerr.
46
Pull the saw blade through the
workpiece to the distance shown
12. Support and hold the workpiece down
and against the fence firmly with your left
hand.
below.
13. Pull blade through fence and workpiece
just enough to complete the cut. Fig 102
14. Return saw to its rearmost position
continue to hold the saw handle.
and
15. Turn saw off.
16. Wait for the blade
17. Remove
to stop turning.
yellow key form red switch.
Fig. 102 Distance Needed to Complete Crosscut
10. Insert
yellow key into red switch.
Repetitive
Crosscuts
11. Turn saw on.
To make repetitive
crosscuts:
/X
AlL WARNING:
Saw blade
can be
1. Use two pieces
lumber.
pulled into or over fingers or
hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.
Keep hand holding the workpiece at
least 8 inches to the left of, and out of
the path of the saw blade. Keep hand in
view at all times.
of 1 inch by 2 by 2 inch
2. Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each
side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.
3. Clamp
necessary
pieces of lumber at the distance
to complete the crosscut.
Fig. 103 Hand Placement for Crosscuts
Fig. 104
47
Ripping
When
Ripping is used to change the width of the
workpiece
by sawing along its length. The
workpiece
is fed into the saw blade. The
fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually
made with the grain of the workpiece.
Saw Positions
to Use
In-Rip
or Out-Rip
The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece
and your
hands than does the out-rip saw position.
The only time you should use the out-rip saw
position is when the workpiece
is 14 inches
or wider. Use the in-rip position for all
workpieces
less than 14 inches wide.
for Ripping
There are two saw blade positions for making
rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.
In in-rip position, motor is toward the front
of the table, and blade is toward the fence.
Workpiece
Positioning
for Ripping
Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece is between the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do
not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by setting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.
A
IILWARNINbi:
_
If the blade is set between 2
inches and 6 inches from the fence, hands
will be brought too close to the blade.
Fingers and hand can be cut off. Use a push
stick.
Fig. 105
In out-rip position,
the blade is toward
In-Rip
,Saw Position
For example, if the workpiece
is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push
stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 inches. See Cutting Accessories
section on how
to make and use a push stick.
motor is toward fence and
the front of the table.
a_
WARNING:
If the blade is set between
1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands
will be brought too close to the blade.
Fingers/hand
can be cut off. Use an auxiliary
fence/push block.
For example, if the workpiece
is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary
fence. See Cutting Accessories
section.
Fig. 106 Out-Rip Saw Fosition (Infeed End)
_1_ WARNING:
Stand only at infeed end
of saw. Feed workpiece
only into infeed
end of saw as shown above.
48
Safety Information
Ripping
2. One of the most common
for
Read and follow the safety information
before making any type of rip cut.
and the
most dangerous mistakes people make
is to reach for the workpiece
at the outfeed side of the saw. DON'T ! The
below
workpiece
could kickback as you reach
for, touch or try to pull the workpiece
through the blade. You can lose your
fingers, hand, or arm. The blade guard
does NOT provide complete protection
at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach
for the workpiece at outfeed end of the
saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut
off. Follow instructions for ripping.
DANGER
1. Kickback can happen when the saw
blade is pinched or bound by the
workpiece.
This creates force in the opposite direction to which the workpiece
is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab
and throw the workpiece
violently back
out of the saw.
Kickback,
Blade Contact.
Fingers, hand or arm
can be cut off.
Follow instructions
for ripping.
Fig. 107 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign
3. The workpiece
can also kickback
violently toward you during a rip cut.
You can be hit hard enough to cause
broken bones and/or internal injury.
Keep blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader in place and adjusted.
Apply feed pressure to the section of
the workpiece
next to the fence. Do not
apply feed pressure on the section of
the workpiece
away from the fence.
Stand out of the path of the workpiece.
Kickback.
Broken bones/internalinjuriesresult.
Use pawls/spreader.
Stand out of
workpiece
path.
Fig. 108 Kickback,
49
Thrown
Workpiece
Safety Sign
4. Non-thru cuts increase the chance
kickback
because the anti-kickback
of
2. The workpiece
can be grabbed by the
saw blade and take off like a missile.
Anyone standing
in the path of the
workpiece
can be killed.
pawls cannot always grab the irregular
workpiece
surface.
Use a featherboard.
See Cutting Accessories
section on how
to make and use a featherboard.
5. The workpiece
can snag or hang
on a fence with a kerr in it. The
Wrong Way Feed,
Blade Contact.
up
workpiece
can be thrown or pinch the
blade, causing
kickback.
Use solid fences when making rip cuts.
6. Wood
the
kerr
cause
ride
from
cut
with
closed,
the
bind
a kickback.
in the
closing
kerr
grain
the
can
on saw
prevent
and
spreader
the
Feed from infeed
end of saw.
spring
blade,
Adjust
and
can be cut off.
to
kerr
Wrong
Thrown
blade.
Anyone hit can
be killed.
7. Composition
materials,
like particle
boards and plastics, may be cut on the
saw. Because
these materials
often
Feed from
infeed end of saw.
have a harder and more slippery
surface
than wood, the anti-kickback
pawls may
not stop a kickback.
Place finished
side
of workpiece
down, roughest
side of
workpiece
up. Make anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader
adjustments.
Stand out of
the path of workpiece.
_1_ DANGER:
wrong
way
Way Feed.
Workpiece.
Fig. 109 Wrong
Way Feed Safety Signs
Always
feed the workpiece
direction
of rotation
of the
infeed
end of the blade.
against
the
blade,
at the
Feed
Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece
into the end of the blade with pawls, the
outfeed end. (Fig. 110) There are two
things that can happen if you feed the
workpiece into the outfeed end of the saw
blade:
Infeed End of
Outfeed End
Saw Blade
of Saw Blade
"GER
1. The workpiece
can be grabbed
by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back.
Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off.
Fig. 110 Infeed and Outfeed
5O
Ends of Saw Blade
Rip Cutting
Blade Guard, Anti-kickback
Pawls and Spreader
The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and
workpiece
spreader are designed to reduce or
eliminate the risk of injury from blade contact, workpiece kickback and wrong way feed.
Checklist
Use the following rip cutting checklist at the
beginning of each new cutting period to
reduce the risk of an accident.
The Blade Guard:
Rip Cutting Chec ist
• serves as a partial barrier to help
keep hands from contacting
the blade
at the infeed end of the saw blade.
• helps keep the workpiece from lifting
or fluttering during ripping.
he rearand
• helps catch or deflect workpiece
or pieces of the blade.
The
Anti-Kickback
• help reduce
and holding
Pawls
chips
Arbor
:
kickback by grabbing
the workpiece.
table level side
nut snug.
Blade sharp.
into
Fence secure,
Fence
• act as a barrier to provide some
protection
from blade contact.
solid (knot free),
in correct
Saw blade desired
for cut.
no kerfs.
rip position.
distance
from the fence
The Spreader:
Swivel, bevel, rip, miter and table
lock locked.
• helps keep the kerf of the workpiece
open, which helps prevent the blade
from being pinched and causing
workpiece
kickback.
Blade guard,
• when correctly set, helps reduce or
eliminate the chance of wrong way
feed because it blocks the workpiece
from contacting
the saw blade.
anti-kickback
pawls and
6 inches offworkpiece.
Use push block if cutting between
and 2 inches off workpiece.
1/2
Use featherboard if making a non-through
cut and when needed on through cuts.
'_ WARNING: The anti-kickback
pawls
and spreader adjustments must be made
each time a different thickness workpiece
is cut to reduce or eliminate kickback.
Read and follow instructions for the type
of rip cut you want to make.
51
Making
a Rip Cut Table
Blade
Kerf
Guard
1. Unplug
You will need to make a table kerf before a
rip cut can be made. Every time you move
the blade a new distance from the fence, you
will need to make a new kerf.
Adjustments
saw and remove
2. Put saw in In-Rip position
saw arm in the 0° position.
yellow key.
and lock the
1. Put saw in desired rip position and lock the
saw arm in the 0° position.
2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table
locks.
3. Adjust saw arm with handwheel
until the
saw blade almost touches the table top.
4. Plug the saw into a grounded
outlet.
Fig. 111 In-Rip Saw Position
5. Put on safety goggles.
6. Insert
7. Turn
3. Lock rip, miter,
locks.
the yellow key in the red switch.
saw on.
8. Lower
table.
saw blade
until blade
touches
4. Go to the in-feed end of the saw blade.
Fig. 110.
the
5. Put the workpiece
on the table, in line with
blade and under the nose of blade guard, so
it touches the blade.
9. Turn the handwheel
about 1 full turn
more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerr
in the table.
_WARNING:
For workpieces
6. Loosen the guard clamp screw and rotate
the guard until the guard nose just clears the
workpiece. Fig. 112.
1/4 inch
thick or less, make the rip kerf at least
1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade
from rising up on top of workpieces
and
violently throwing them.
10. Turn
saw off and remove
11. Unplug
Adjustments
DANGER:
7. Tighten
the guard
clamp screw.
|
Infeed
Direction
yellow key.
saw at the end of cutting
bevel, swivel and table
session.
for Ripping
You will need to make
blade guard, anti-kickback
pawls and
spreader adjustments before making a rip
cut.
Lder
Fig. 112 Blade Guard Position for Ripping
52
Anti-kickback
ments
Pawls
and Spreader
1. Go to the outfeed
Adjust-
Making Rip Cuts
When
end of the saw blade.
2. Put edge of workpiece
and under the pawls.
beside
to Use
In-Rip
or Out-Rip
The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece
and your
hands than does the out-rip saw position. The
only time you should use the out-rip saw position is when the workpiece
is 14 inches or
wider. Use the in-rip position for all
workpieces
less than 14 inches wide.
the blade
3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kickback pawls and spreader until the spreader
hangs next to the edge of the workpiece
and
the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest
on the workpiece.
Workpiece
Positioning
for Ripping
Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece
is between the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece,
set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do
not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece
by setting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.
A
411WARNING:
If the blade is set between 2 inches and 6 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought too close
to the blade. Fingers and hand can be
cut off. Use a push stick.
Fig. 113 Anti-kickback
4. Tighten
wing
Pawl Position
For example, if the workpiece
is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push
stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-
screw.
5. Go to the infeed
end of the saw blade.
6. Push the workpiece
a few inches in the
direction of the cut and then pull the
workpiece
back toward you. The pawls
should have grabbed the wood and stopped
the kickback motion by grabbing into the
workpiece.
If they did not, repeat adjustments until the pawls grab the workpiece.
If
the pawls fail to grab the workpiece,
sharpen
or replace them. If that fails to work, use a
featherboard.
Repeat steps for making antikickback pawls and spreader adjustments
above.
ches. See Cutting Accessories
to make and use a push stick.
_lb WARNING"
tween
section
on how
If the blade is set be-
1/2 inch and 2 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought too close
to the blade. Fingers/hand
can be cut
off. Use an auxiliary fence/push
block.
For example, if the workpiece
is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary
fence. See Cutting Accessories
section.
53
_kWARNING:
When making
9. Stand out of the line of the workpiece to
be clear of workpiece in case of kickback.
through
rip cuts do not set the blade closer than
1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary
fence, your hands will be brought too
close to the blade. Your fingers and
hand can be cut off. Do not use a radial
arm saw to rip cut less than 1/2 inch
wide workpieces.
1. Set the blade to desired distance from the
fence and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.
2. Lock rip, swivel, miter,
locks.
3. Make
spreader
blade guard,
adjustments.
4. Remove
workpiece
bevel and table
anti-kickback
pawls and
Fig. 114 Hand and Body Position for Making an InRip Cut
from table.
10. Position your body at the infeed end of
the saw blade. Start and complete the cut
from that same side.
5. Turn saw on.
6. Place workpiece under the guard nose,
keeping workpiece edge against the fence.
7. Place one hand flat on the workpiece
next to fence.
8. Place
the other
that your fingers
• on the back
hand behind
11. Push the workpiece, putting pressure on
the part of the workpiece
between the blade
and the fence. If you push the part of the
workpiece
on the other side of the blade, the
blade could be pinched and the workpiece
will kickback.
and
the first so
are:
12. Keep pushing the section of the
workpiece
between the blade and the fence
until the piece has been pushed completely
past the anti-kickback
pawls.
edge of workpiece;
• out of the blade
path and,
_lb DANGER:
• as close to the fence
The
blade guard does
NOT provide complete protection
feed end of the saw blade. The
as possible.
at out-
workpiece
could kickback as you reach
for, touch or pull the workpiece through
the blade, pulling your hand into the
blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off. Do not pull, hold-down or touch the
workpiece
at the outfeed end of the saw.
a3,
_
dUkWARNING:
Even when all steps to
reduce kickback are taken, the
workpiece
can still kickback. You or
others in the area can be hit hard
enough to cause broken bones or internal organ injury. Stand out of the line of
the saw blade and workpiece.
54
on the arbor could cause the dado and arbor
nut to spin off. Take several passes of the
dado if cut required is greater than 13/16 of
an inch wide.
Kickback,
Blade Contact.
Fingers,hand
or arm
can be cut off.
3. To avoid excessive load on the motor
never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper
1/8 inch in one pass.
Follow instructions
for ripping.
4. When installing
the dado
ways install the inside loose
Fig. 115 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign
sure
13. Turn the saw off
the
good
arbor
directly
_1_ WARNING:
Blade continues
key from
nut engagement.
the
Install
outside
Make
the
of the
arbor
sure
nut
dado.
Molding
is
1. Instructions
for using the molding
provided with the molding head.
workpiece until blade stops. Fingers or
hand can be cut off by the turning
blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.
yellow
against
on the arbor,
alcollar first to en-
to turn
for about 12 seconds after power
turned off. Do not reach for cut
14. Remove
arbor
nut is snug.
than
head are
2. Use of molding head or drum sander with
the saw arbor vertical requires an opening
(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor
clearance. See Cutting Accessories
section to
make a molding fence.
red switch.
Edging
Bevel
1. Edging requires the use of a dado or molding head in the horizontal position (parallel
to table).
Ripping
To make
1. Set the
a bevel
rip cut:
saw in the
2. Index
the
arm
3. Bevel
the blade
desired
to 0 ° and
2. Use proper accessory guard when edging.
See Recommended
Accessories
section.
position.
lock
in position.
_WARNING:
4. Follow
steps
to the
for making
desired
angle.
edging,
fol-
for using dado
the dado blade.
blades
the
3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with
the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See
Cutting Accessories
section to make auxiliary
fence for edging in the 0° miter position.
Dadoing
1. Instructions
provided
with
the saw without
proper accessory guard for edging is extremely dangerous.
Hands, fingers or
arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow
instructions
for edging guard.
a rip cut.
Note: For dadoing,
molding
and
low instructions
for crosscutting.
Using
are
2. The saw arbor is designed
for a dado set
up to 13/16 inches wide.
Use of a wider dado
55
,_
WARNING:
If the auxiliary fence
not used when the saw arm is in the
crosscut
position,
the molding
head
not be located behind the fence for
and proper
3. Remove saw blade, dado, or other accessory from the saw arbor shaft before using
the accessory shaft. Do not use the saw with
accessories
installed on both ends of the saw
arbor shaft at the same time.
is
0°
cansafe
operation.
4. Make sure the unused shaft is covered by a
guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid
being pulled into moving parts by hair,
threads, clothing.
4. Edging can also be done in the 30 ° left
miter without the use of an auxiliary fence.
Follow the instructions
below.
5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the
drill bit can break. You can be blinded or injured if hit by thrown pieces. Do not use twist
drills longer than 7 inches.
• Miter the arm to the left approximately 30°.
• Swivel the motor until bottom of
motor is parallel to and facing the rip
fence and operating
instructions
label
is visible.
6. Use a spade type drill of 1 inch diameter
or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plastic because the speed is not high enough for
other types of materials.
7. Do not use other
• Follow all steps outlined on motor
label as shown below.
Know
1
this
Read
saw
in
Understand
Owner's
all
Manual
warnings
and
and
with
InsIruclion$
Properly
guard
the
curling
3
tool
acces-
Provide
proper
9. When using the accessory shaft in the vertical position, swivel the motor 90 ° so that the
arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.
workp*ece
support
4
Position
ing
the
the
label
tO the
Ihe
faces
--
and
this
or
auxlhary
Owners
Man-
_,WARNING:
ual
5
behind power
With
the
key
it
lence
oHIhe
by switch
mov-
lurn
cutting
removed
tool
_1_
so
lence,
an
per
Iool
left
yoke
the
construct
lence
culling
arm
clamping
by
hand
does
fence
parts.
not
or
Io make
guard,
othe¢
Clothing,
hair, jewelry
can
be caught and pulled into an exposed
arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be
broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft
under the radial arm when using the ac-
sure
Slrl_e
any
saw
_E_,t,I_
Fig. 116 Edging Label
Accessory
drills.
on
recommended
series.
2
shank
8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of
checking to see that adjusting wrenches are
removed from tool before turning it on.
toot:
and
reduced
cessory
Safety
shaft.
1. For your safety use only recommended
accessories. Use of any other accessories
may
increase the risk of injury. See Recommended Accessory section of manual.
2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off
wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because
they can break explosively and throw pieces.
You can be blinded or recieve a life threatening puncture wound. Do not use grinding
wheels, abrasive/cut off wheels or wire wheels.
Fig. 117 Arbor Shaft Position When Usmg Accessory Shaft
56
Cutting
Accessories
Push
Fences
Stick
Push sticks are used during ripping when the
blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from
the fence.
Fences are required for all saw operations.
Crosscutting
requires fences with kerfs (slots)
to match the path of the saw, because the saw
blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence
to cut the workpiece.
Make
a push stick when:
• the blade is to be placed
ches from the fence;
Ripping requires a solid fence witt: no kerfs
or slots, because the fence serves as a guide
for the workpiece
being pushed into the saw
blade. If the workpiece
is pushed along a
fence with kerfs, the workpiece
can get
caught on a kerr, pinch the blade and cause
the workpiece
to kickback.
• existing
2 to 6 in-
push stick has been
damaged.
To make a push stick:
1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free)
ber.
piece of lum-
Make a new fence:
2. Cut a piece 15 inches
wide.
• when the fence used for crosscutting
has weakened
from having too many
kerfs cut in it;
3. Cut a 45 degree
long by 1 5/8 inches
notch in one end as shown.
Slightly
Thickness
• when you want to make a rip cut but
the fence on the saw has kerfs;
Less Than
of Workpiece
up to 3/8"---_.
--!• when you want to crosscut a
workpiece
higher than your current
fence.
To make
15 "_
Note: All Dimensions
in Inches
Fig. 118 Push Stick Dimensions
a new fence:
1. Use 3/4 inch knot free lumber.
particle board or other composite
cause they are not strong enough.
Notch--L-
Do not use
material be-
2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length
of the table, and to a width equal to the
height of the workpiece
plus one inch. The
installed fence must be equal to or higher
than the workpiece.
Fig. 119 Way to Use Push Stick
57
'2--h_
__._.
1/2
Auxiliary Fence and Push
Block
An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade
is positioned
between 1/2 inch and 2 inches
from the fence during ripping. An auxiliary
fence must always be used with a push block.
Their purpose is to keep your hands away
from the saw blade. They are also needed
when you use the molding head.
Make an auxiliary
3/8" Plywood
This Face and This
Edge
Must
Be Parallel
3/4" Plywood
fence when:
• the blade is to be placed
less from the fence;
2 inches
Note: All Dimensions
or
in Inches
Fig. 120 Auxiliary Fence Dimensions
Push Block
• an existing auxiliary fence is not the
same width all along its length;
Push blocks are always used with an auxiliary
fence.
• the existing auxiliary fence has been
damaged by blade contact.
To make
auxiliary
Make a push block when:
fence:
• the blade is to be placed
inches from the fence;
1. Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood and two
pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.
• you make
2. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood
long by 5 1/2 inches wide.
1/2 inch to 2
the first auxiliary fence;
to 44 inches
• existing push block has been damaged.
3. Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44 inches long by 3 5/8 inches wide.
To make a push block:
1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood
piece of 3/8 inch plywood.
4. Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44
inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.
2. Cut the 3/4 inch plywood
by 5 inches wide.
5. Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood pieces
together so that they line up square (flush)
on an edge.
to 12 inches
long
3. Cut a triangular piece off each of two
corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a
pencil in and down from the corners 1 1/4 inches and cutting along the diagonal formed
by the points.
6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right
angle to and flush against the 2 1/4 inch wide
3/4 inch plywood.
7. Reinforce
and one
with nails.
4. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 12 inches long
by 5 1/8 inches wide.
58
5. Cut out
a notch
from
the
12 inch
side
of
Auxiliary Fence for Edging
the 3/8 plywood
that is 9 1/2 inches long by
3/8 inch wide. The dimensions
of the remaining 3/8 plywood
are
shown
in Fig.
Make an auxiliary
fence for edging:
165.
• before doing edging
0° miter position.
6. Glue the 3/4 inch plywood on top of the
3/8 inch plywood so that their 12 inch sides
are square, as shown;
• when existing
damaged.
These Edges Must
Be Parallel
with the arm at
ones have been
3/4" Plywood
To make a fence for edging:
1-1/4 x
1-1/4
1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot-free)
2. Cut to the dimensions
Auxiliary Fence
shown.
Spacer Table
3/8" Plywood
5-1/8 t_
lumber.
Rear Table
_
2-1/2
318 318
Note: All Dimensions
in Inches
Fig. 121 Push Block Dimensions
7. Cut a piece of plywood 3/8 inch wide by
2 1/2 inches long and glue it to the underside
of the 3/8 inch plywood in line with the edge
that sticks out. Do not use nails because if
you accidently cut into the push block with
the saw blade, the nails will dull the blade.
l
45° --z545
°
[
II
Note: All Dimensions
8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary
fence to make sure that their widths match exactly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.
" 12-1/43/4
T'-
..L.
3/4--_
_'_'-_1
I F--d lin Inches
Fig. 123 Auxiliary Fence for Edging
For use of the molding head or
with saw arbor vertical, the rear
quires an opening (next to rear
for arbor clearance. Cut opening
below arbor in vertical position.
dimensions
are shown below.
Rear Table-,. I
drum sander
table reface of fence)
directly
Opening
---,11._1_--3
j1_3-1/2
I--Note:
Fig.
Fig. 122 Way to Use Auxiliary Fence/Push Block
59
T
All Dimensions
124 Rear
Table
in Inches
Opening
Dimensions
Featherboard
Featherboards
are used during rip cutting to
help keep the workpiece
against the fence.
The featherboard
is clamped to the front
table, so that the angled edge of the featherboard is against the workpiece
on the infeed
end of the blade. The other edge of the
workpiece
is against the fence.
Make new featherboards
have been damaged.
when existing ones
_ii_iiiili
1. Use solid (knot free) lumber
5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch.
24 inches
Fig. 126 Way to Use a Featherboard
by
2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 5 1/2 inches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down
Attaching Auxiliary Board to
Crooked Workpiece
on the right from the edge of the board.
Draw a line between the points.
3.Crosscut workpiece
to make the kerfs.
If the workpiece
you want to rip cut does not
have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board
to the workpiece.
at a 30 ° angle then rip
4. Do not clamp the featherboard
cut off part of the workpiece.
i i ¸¸....
against the
1. Place irregular side of workpiece
fence.
against
2. Place straight edged auxiliary board on top
of workpiece and against fence.
24
5-112
3. Tack the auxiliary board to the workpiece.
The auxiliary board must not extend beyond
the leading end of the workpiece and should
cover the workpiece width only enough to
pass between the blade and fence.
5.-->-'-4-1/2
Note: All Dimensions
in Inches
3. Use a fence that is equal to or higher than
the combined height of the workpiece and
auxiliary board.
Fig. 125 Featherboard Dimensions
6O
*Recommended
Item
Saw blades
(10" diameter with 5/8" hole)
Caster
Sanding Drum
Drill Chuck and Key
Cat. No.
9-2980
Taper Jig
Auxiliary Table Cover
Miter Square
Pin Router
Extension Table
Satin Cut Dado
9-3233
See Catalog
9-32056
9-32765
9-32787
Adjustable Dado
7"-24 Tooth Carbide
7"-32 Tooth Carbide
9-3257
9-3253
9-3264
9-32475
9-3261
9-3262
7"-16 Tooth Carbide
9-3263
8"-48 Tooth Carbide
9-32708
Molding Heads
7"-Bits Not Included
7"-27 Piece Set
9-3214
9-3217
7"-15 Piece Set
Sanding Wheel-10"
Blade Stabilizer
Cabinet Acessories
9-3218
9-22723
9-2952
Shelf
9-22251
Door
3 Drawer Set
Books
9-22252
9-22253
_WARNING:
The lower guard does
not provide protection during actual
crosscutting or ripping, or from contact in line with or at an angle to the
saw blade teeth. When in the cut, the
inner and outer guards ride on top of
the fence or workpiece
exposing the
saw blade teeth. Fingers, hands or
arm can be cut off if the saw blade is
contacted. Additional hazards are explained in the instructions accompaning the lower blade guard.
_lb WARNING:
The lower blade
guard can get caught or jammed in
fence and table kerfs, jam while setting up for and while making bevel
and compound miter cuts and jam
during certain in-rip cuts. The
workpiece
or narrow cut-off pieces
could kickback causing your hands
to be cut by the blade.
Use the
lower retractable guard in the 90 °
crosscut position only.
WARNING:
PowerTool KnowHow Handbook See Catalog
Guards
Lower Retractable Guard
Guard
A lower retractable
guard which meets
OSHA requirements
for occupational
use
of the radial saw is available. (See Note)
The lower guard is designed
to provide
protection from contact with the fiat sides
of the blade when the radial saw is in the
90 ° crosscut position
and in its rearmost
position
behind
the fence.
The
lower
guard
only provides
protection
against
minor laceraUons and bruises.
9-25246
See Catalog
9-29523
8"
Lower Retractable
See Catalog
9-22254
Dust Collector
Molding Head Guard 8"
7"
8"
8" Carbide
Standard Cut Dado
Accessories
TO AVOID INJURY
SHUT OFF POWER
BEFORE CLEARING A
JAMMED LOWER GUARD
9-29009
(For 90° Crosscut Only)
Fig. 127Lower Guard Label
* Recommended means that these accessories
are designed to fit this radial arm saw. Read and
follow accessory instructions on their use and
limitations.
Note: Employers are required to provide the
lower retractable guard unless OSHA grants an
exemption. This saw is designed for use in noncommercial settings.
61
Glossary
Molding Cut: Non-through
cut which
produces a contoured
surface on the
workpiece.
Anti-kickback Pawls: Pivoted objects with
teeth which help prevent workpiece kickback.
Arbor: The bar or shaft that holds the saw
blade.
Bevel: The slanting of the motor
an angle between 0° and 90 °.
Crosscut:
Cutting
a workpiece
and blade
Outfeed:
rip cut workpiece
tified by presence
to
Parallel:
leaves the saw blade;
of pawls.
two surfaces
the
iden-
are the same dis-
at all points.
Perpendicular:
When two surfaces
(square) to each other.
Freehand: Performing a cut without the use
of fence, guide or hold-down designed to
prevent the workpiece from moving during
the cutting operation.
are 90°
Push Block!Auxiliary
Fence: Two accessories
used together for ripping a workpiece between 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide.
Push
of the blade relative to
Stick:
Cutting
ping a workpiece
ches wide.
Infeed: The end of the saw blade where the
workpiece
is fed during ripping; identified by
the absence of pawls.
accessory
between
used
2 inches
during
and
rip-
6 in-
Revolutions Per Minute (RPM): Number of
turns completed
by an object in one minute.
Ripping: Used to change the width of a
workpiece
by cutting along its length.
In-Rip: Positioning
the the motor toward the
front of the table, the blade toward the fence.
Spreader:
Used during ripping
kerf from closing and pinching
helps prevent kickback.
Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by
the blade in a through cut, or a shallow slot
produced by the blade in a non-through cut.
Workpiece:
Uncontrolled
throwing
during ripping.
When
tance apart
Featherboard:
Device used to keep
workpiece in contact with the fence during ripping.
Kickback:
workpiece
where
Out-rip: Positioning
the motor toward the
fence, the blade toward the front of the table
during ripping.
to length.
Dado: Non-through cut which produces a
square sided notch or trough in the workpiece.
Heel: Misalignment
blade travel path.
The end of the saw blade
of the
Miter: Positioning the saw arm to the right or
left of 0°.
62
Object
to keep the
the blade. It
being cut by the saw.
Helpful
In order to get accurate cutting results
your radial arm saw, do the following:
Hints
3. Place the same edge of the workpiece
against the fence for all cuts. Make the
first cut at one end of the workpiece,
then flip the workpiece
over and make
the second cut from the other end. Con-
from
1. Follow all steps in the Alignment
the Blade section.
of
tinue this way until all four cuts are
made. (Figure 128)
2. Place the long edge of your framing
square against the edge of the
workpiece
that will be held against the
fence during cutting. Make sure that
this edge of the workpiece
is straight.
This Edge of Board
Against
Fence For All Cuts
1
S
l
3. Make sure that your workpiece
lays
flat on the front table of your saw.
4. Clean all sawdust
from the table.
Fence
/
/)-,I
Turn workpiece
over end for end.,
keep same edge against fence when
making successive cuts.
and woodchips
I
///,.
5. Hold the workpiece
firmly against the
fence and table during all cuts. You
should use extra force during miter and
bevel cuts since the workpiece
tends to
move when these cuts are made.
2nd and 4th Cut
Pencil
Gauging
Line for
Required
Length
_t
Scrap
6. Use the right sawblade for each job,
and make sure that all blades and cutting tools are sharp.
Fig. 128 Making a 4-Sided Frame
When
making
a four-sided
frame:
4. Make a pencil line on the table for
gauging the length of each cut.
1. Make sure that the top and bottom
pieces are exactly the same length.
2. Make sure that both side pieces are
exactly the same length.
63
Motor
Frequently
blowing of fuses or tripping
circuit breakers may result if:
To avoid motor damage this motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently
to prevent
sawdust buildup which will interfere with
normal motor ventilation.
• Motor is overloaded:
Overloading
can occur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is misaligned so that the blade heels.
If the motor fails to start, turn the power
switch to the "OFF"
position immediately.
Remove the yellow key. UNPLUG THE
TOOL. Check the saw blade to insure that it
turns freely and that its teeth are not wedged
into the table top. After the blade has been
freed, try to start the motor again. If, at this
point, the motor still fails to start, refer to the
"Motor Trouble-Shooting
Chart."
If the motor
ting
wood,
off,
remove
power
cord.
The motor
finished.
should
suddenly
the power
the yellow
Free
may
switch
key
the blade
now
stall
while
should
from
be restarted
• Motor circuit is fused differently
from recommendations:
Always follow instructions
for the proper fuse/breaker.
Do not use a
fuse/breaker
of greater capacity without
consulting
a qualified electrician.
Low voltage: Although the motor is designed for operation
on the voltage and frequency specified on the nameplate,
normal
loads will be handled safely on voltages not
more than 10% above or below the nameplate voltage. Heavy loads, however,
require that voltage at motor terminals equal
the voltage specified on nameplate.
cut-
be turned
and unplug
the
the wood.
and
the cut
• Improper
64
t
0
of
extension
cord size.
Maintaining
Your Saw
General
l'k
_
4UkWARNING:
For your
turn power switch off and
from power source outlet
taining or lubricating
your
To avoid motor damage the motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent
sawdust build-up which will interfere with
normal motor ventilation.
own safety,
remove plug
before mainsaw.
Lubrication
Your saw is precision built and should be
kept properly lubricated.
Before describing
the various points which may periodically
require lubrication,
it is more important
to first
mention the points which should not be lubricated.
When you receive your new Craftsman radial
saw, it requires no lubrication.
The radial
saw has been partially aligned and all bearings are lubricated
and sealed for life. In
time, however, in order to keep your saw in
perfect working order and accurate, it will be
necessary to lubricate and realign.
In fact
your radial saw needs more of a cleaning
than a lubrication.
Do not lubricate
the
following:
• carriage ball bearings
Replacing
Antikickback
Pawls
• motor
Make sure the teeth of the antikickbackpawls
are always sharp. If they become dull they
must be replaced. With a 1/2 inch wrench or
socket remove the 5/16 hex nut and old
pawls. Reassemble
new antikickback
pawls
and spreader to the bar. Check spreader for
proper alignment and correct if necessary.
(See Alignment
of the Blade, Installing
Guard / Setting Spreader section.)
bearings
• area between the miter
and the column tube
locking
rings
The carriage ball bearings and motor bearings
are sealed ball bearings which require no
added lubrication.
Cleaning
Do lubricate the following, periodically,
using
SAE No 10W-30 automotive
engine oil:
Periodically
remove any heavy build-up of
sawdust that may accumulate
on the saw.
The absorbing tendency of sawdust will draw
lubricants away from the areas where they
are needed.
Clean the carriage bearings and
track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease
accumulate
repeatedly
on carriage bearings
and track inspect the wipers for wear and
replace if necessary. (See Adjustments
to
Compensate
for Wear, Swivel Lock, later in
this section.)
• Apply a few drops of oil along the
swivel index pin and the bevel index pin
only if the pins have a tendency to
stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for
easy access to the swivel index pin.
Bevel to 45°and bevel indexpin can be
easily accessed behind the yoke as illustrated.
(Figure 129)
65
• Lubricate the cam surfaces
lock assembly.
of the rip
• A light film of oil should be wiped on
the face of the column tube to lubricate
the fit between the column tube and
column support. With elevation
wheel raise arm to upper limit.
hand-
.The thread on the elevation shaft assembly can be lubricated
through the
oil hole in the center of the radial arm
cap. Lubricate
spring.
ramp on the swivel index
• Apply a few drops of oil to the foot assemblies, where the levers are inserted
through the rods.
Fig. 129- Swivel and Bevel Index Pins
.Lubricate
the bearing
points where
the
arm attaches
to the column
tube. With
a #2 Phillips
screwdriver
screws and the rear arm
cess
to these
points.
get lubricant
on the
will adversely
affect
function.
(Figure
Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any
location will attract airborne dust particles
and sawdust.
remove
two
cover for ac-
Be careful
locking
the
not to
rings
miter
as this
Refer to parts lists for locations
needed.
locking
130)
®
LOCKING
RING
Fig. 130 - Bearing Points Where Arm Attaches to
Column Tube
66
of parts as
Adjustments
Bevel
Swivel
for Wear
This
Lock
Lock
handle
the upper
face
The purpose of the bevel lock is to lock the
motor at any bevel angle. An adjustment is
required if the motor can be easily moved by
hand when the bevel lock is locked or if bevel
lock offers minimal resistance when moving it
to the locked position. To make this adjustment:
1. Remove
motor support
provides
face
a friction
of the yoke
of the carriage.
lock
and
It should
between
the bottom
eliminate
any
play or rotation
between
these two parts when
locked.
An adjustment
is required
if the yoke
can be easily
locked
rotated
or yoke
resistance
lock
when
position.
by hand
handle
moving
To make
when
offers
handle
handle
is
minimal
to the
locked
knob
on
this adjustment:
cover.
2. Position the motor at approximately
30 °
bevel angle and lock bevel lock. (Figure 131)
Fig. 132
1. Remove
swivel
arm
2.
Fig. 131- Bevel Lock - Locked
3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex
nut located at the back of the motor support
casting until the motor can no longer be easily
moved by hand. Do not overtighten.
lock.
using
This
from
the
4. Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any
of the five index positions. If the motor does
not index securely the adjustment
is too tight.
Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel indexpin
seats properly.
Remove
nut from
knob
driver.
the two screws
from
arm
one
the
portion
by locating
corners
of the square
lock
swivel
lock
wrench
portion
quarter
is done
swivel
portion
of the swivel
the wrench
nut
from
screw
will separate
Using
square
and
a regular
Remove
arm.
3.
screw
the
rotation
wrench
nut
then
tighten
67
the
at a time.
across
moving
wrench
until it lines up with the arm
and the two screw holes are in line.
5. Adjustment
is complete when both locking
and indexing functions are working properly.
Replace motor support cover.
lock.
the
the
portion
This
Arm and Column
With the miter lock unlocked
and in the unin-
dexed position the arm should fit snugly to
the column tube and not allow any vertical
movement.
If you can move the end of the
arm up and down an adjustment
is needed.
1. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver
screws and the rear arm cover.
remove
two
2. With a 9/16 inch wrench or socket tighten
evenly the top two 3/8-16 hex head tapping
screws. The bottom two screws should also be
tightened
evenly but not as tight as the top
screws. (Figure 134)
Fig. 133
4.
Holding
rotate
rotate
wrench
and
lock
When
is in the
position.
is such
be moved
locked
and
© @o
If the
the square
nut has not
Repeat
step 3.
the adjustment
no longer
in position
position
to the locked
can still be moved
tightened
enough.
can
arm
to a non-preset
swivel
yoke
been
5.
the
yoke
when
position.
that
the yoke
the swivel
Install
lock
the two
screws.
6.
Unlock
swivel
non-preset
position.
position.
seat
If the
at the
too
tight.
preset
7.
pin
Adjustment
and
preset
rotate
Return
yoke
yoke
pin does
position,
nut one
seats
and
index
Remove
the square
index
arm
to a
to a rip
not securely
the adjustment
the two
screws
quarter
turn
and
until
is
Fig. 134 - Location of Hex Head Tapping Screws
loosen
swivel
3. This adjustment
is correct when the arm
moves firmly without vertical movement.
securely.
is complete
position
functions
when
both
locking
4. Re-install
properly.
Carriage
8. Re-install
wrench
9.
the two screws
portion
Re-install
screw
and
of the swivel
knob
nut
to swivel
the rear arm
cover.
are working
mounting
the
The carriage should roll freely but with some
resistance
for the entire length of travel. To
check for bearing looseness, perform the following steps.
lock.
handle
and
Bearings
install
in knob.
1. Place yoke in either
position.
611
the in-rip or out-rip
2. Push the carriage back against
the rear stop.
3. Hold the front carriage bearing with your
fingers as tight as possible and pull carriage
forward at the same time. If you can prevent
the bearing from turning an adjustment
is required. (Figure 135)
Fig. 136- Location of Hex Nut
3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn
(left or right) as required to take up looseness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equal
amount to maintain blade squareness
to the
table in the rip positions.
Fig. 135- Front Carriage Bearings
4. Repeat
ings.
step 3 with the rear carriage bear-
To adjust the carriage bearings
following steps:
perform
1. Clean and lubricate the bearing
the bead on which they ride prior
ment.
4. Hold the head of the eccentric bolts in their
new position and retighten the nuts. Do not
overtighten.
Overtightening
the bearings will
cause difficult operation
and severly reduce
the life of the track and bearings.
the
5. Repeat the test procedure as described
above and readjust if necessary.
races and
to adjust-
2. To adjust the bearing, use a 9/16 inch
wrench to hold the bolt head while using a
1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.
(Figure 136)
Miter
Lock
The miter lock operates adjustable
locking
bands which lock the arm to the column tube
in both indexed and unindexed
positions. If
the arm can be easily moved by hand when
locked in an unindexed
position the following
adjustment
must be made.
1. Move the arm to an unindexed
position
and leave the miter lock in the unlocked position. (Figure 137)
Miter
Lock
Rip Lock
Handle
\
The rip lock locks the carriage in any position
along the length of the arm. If the carriage
can be easily moved by pushing and pulling
on the yoke handle when the rip lock is in the
locked position an adjustment
is required.
\
1. Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position
and with a 7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/420 hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 139)
Track
Fig. 137 - Miter Lock - Unlocked
2. With a 3/16 inch hex "L" wrench find the
1/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole
in the rear of the arm cover. To tighten turn
the wrench clockwise approximately
1/4 turn.
(Figure 138)
Spring
L!t
Locknut
Washer
@
Rip Lock
Lever
Cam
Carriage
Bolt
Fig. 139 - Location of Hex Lock Nut
2. Lock the @ lock and try again to move the
carriage. Make additional
adjustments
if
necessary.
\
3. Place the rip lock in the unlocked position
and move the carriage back and forth from
stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to
move at any point or you can feel the n_p lock
dragging on the track the adjustment
is too
tight. Loosen the hex nut one half the
amount of the last adjustment
and try again.
Fig. 138 - Location ot Hex Socket Cap Screw
3. Lock the miter lock and try again to move
the arm. Readjust if necessary.
4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push
the miter lock into the locked position too
much adjustment
has been made. Turn the
wrench counterclockwise
one half the
amount of the last adjustment
and try again
to lock the arm.
7O
Trouble
A
WARNING:
Shooting
To avoid injury, turn
power
switch
off and remove
power
source
outlet
before
plug
from
trouble
shooting.
Motor
Problem
Probable
Motor
Low
will not run.
Motor will not run and
fuses blow.
ample: a reduction
of
10% in voltage causes a
reduction of 19% in maximum power output of
which the motor is
capable, while a reduction
of 20% in voltage causes a
reduction of 36% in maximum power
Check power
voltage.
voltage.
line for proper
Short circuit in line, cord, or
plug.
Inspect line, cord, and plug for
damaged insulation and shorted
wires.
Short circuit
connections.
Inspect all terminals in motor
for loose or shorted terminals
or worn insulation wires.
Incorrect
Motor fails to develop full
power.
(Power output of motor
decreases rapidly with
decrease in voltage at
motor terminals.
For ex-
What to Do
Cause
Power
in motor
fuses in power
line overloaded
lights, appliances,
motors.
Undersize
or loose
line.
with
Install
correct
Reduce
the
fuses.
line
load.
and other
wires or circuit too
long.
General overloading
of power
company's
facilities.
(In many sections of the
country, demand for electrical
power exceeds the capacity of
existing generating
and distribution systems).
output.)
71
Increase wire sizes, or reduce
length of wiring.
Request a voltage
power company.
check from
Motor- 2
Problem
Motor
overheats.
Probable
Cause
What to Do
Excessive
feed rate when
Slow down rate of feed.
crosscutting
or ripping.
Improper
cooling.
(Air circulation
restricted
through motor due to sawdust,
etc.)
Clean out sawdust to provide
normal air circulation
through
motor.
Saw blade has heel.
Refer to Making Blade Parallel
to Table section.
Motor starts slowly or
fails to come up to full
speed.
Starting switch will not trip due
to low voltage.
Correct
Motor stalls resulting in
blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers.
Voltage too low to permit
motor to reach operating speed.
Correct the low line voltage condition.
Fuses
Replace
breakers
units.
fuses or circuit
with proper capacity
Reduce
motor
or circuit
have sufficient
Frequent opening of fuses
or circuit breakers.
breakers
capacity.
Motor
overloaded.
Fuses
or circuit
have sufficient
do not
breakers
capacity.
72
do not
low voltage
condition.
load.
Replace fuses or circuit
breakers.
Saw Operations
Probable
Problem
Crosscuts not accurate
0° and 45 ° miter.
at
Looseness
between
and column
Saw cuts at slight
(not 90 ° to table).
bevel
column
tube
support.
Crosscut
travel
with fence.
Column
What to Do
Cause
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Adjusting Elevation.
Go to Alignment
Squaring Crosscut
not square
is loose in support.
of the Blade,
Travel.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Adjusting Elevation.
Arm not indexing
properly.
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear,
Miter
Lock.
Carriage
loose on arm.
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Ripping.
assembly
of the Blade,
to Table
for
Looseness between yoke and carriage assembly.
Go to Maintaining Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Swivel
Lock.
Sawdust
fence.
Keep front table clean.
between
workpiece
Fence
not straight.
Work
table not properly
Blade
not square
Carriage
and
Replace
leveled.
fence.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Leveling Front Table.
to table.
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Crosscutting.
of the Blade,
to Table
for
Loose
Go to Alignment
Squaring
Blade
Ripping.
of the Blade,
to Table
for
Bearings
Bevel lock loose.
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear,
Bevel
Lock.
73
Saw Operations - 2
What to Do
Problem
Probable
Cause
Workpiece
kerf rough
with tooth marks from
blade (also called heel).
Saw blade
to fence.
not square
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Fence.
Saw blade
to table.
not parallel
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.
Using improper
cut desired.
Wood binds, smokes, and
motor slows down or stops
when ripping.
Dull blade
Feed
or warped
for finish
Use proper
blade.
board.
Sharpen or replace the saw
blade. Do not use severely
warped material.
rate too fast.
Saw blade
Fence
blade
cutting
Slow feed rate.
heels.
Go to Alignment
not straight.
Carriage
smooth
Replace
assembly
loose on arm.
fence.
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Table for Ripping.
Board pulls away from
fence when ripping.
Saw blade
Workpiece
strikes
spreader when ripping.
Spreader
Saw does not travel
Dirty track.
Clean track and lubricate
light grease.
Bad bearing.
Replace
bearing.
Worn
Replace
track.
smoothly
has heel.
of the Blade,
not in line with blade.
on arm.
Clamping force not sufficient at miter angles other
than 45 ° .
track.
Miter lock needs
adjustment.
74
Go to Alignment
of the Blade,
Go to Alignment
Installing Guard
Spreader.
of the Blade,
/ Setting
with
Go to Maintaining
Your Saw,
Adjustments
for Wear, Miter
Lock.
Saw Operations
-3
Probable
Problem
Clamping force not sufficient at bevel angles other
than 45 o.
Bevel lock needs
Depth of cut varies from
one end of the workpiece
to the other.
Table
Blade
Dull blade.
through
tends to advance
lumber
What to Do
Cause
Go to Maintaining Your Saw,
Adjustments for Wear, Bevel
Lock.
adjusting.
top not parallel
with arm.
Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Leveling Front Table.
Replace
or sharpen
blade.
too fast.
Not advancing
Draw saw blade
saw properly.
across lumber
with a slow and steady pull.
Table cannot be leveled.
(Right side is higher than
left side with no adjustment
left, or vice versa.)
Column support shifted
mounts to saw base.
75
where
it
Loosen the six bolts that hold
the column support to the saw
base and shift arm.
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
(SEE FIG. 7)
9
10
12
3
7
10
4
3
1
19
11
\
\
13
*8
%
14
15
48
27
49
(SEE FIG.
3)
30
(SEE FIG. 8)
22
2
31
(SEE FIG.
37
36
35
21
21
42
33
35
*(SEE FIG. 5)
FIGURE
76
1
2)
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
Always
order
by Part Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
STD601103
2
STD551010
3
815857-1
4
5
6
815649
815777
816333-1
7
8
9
10
815778
11
12
60128
60074
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
37384
815989
815762
815832
STD551012
STD522506
STD532512
815834
STD551225
STD541025
815990
STD541425
817113
817114
446188
26
806828-4
*Standard
29
30
31
Hd.
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
Washer, 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
Screw, Hex Socket Set
1/4-20 x 7/8
Nut, Tee
Clip, "U" 1/4-20
Bushing,
Rubber
Rod, Actuator
*Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/32
Hex Hd. 1/4-20
*Bolt, Carriage
1/4-20
Bushing,
Eccentric
*Lockwasher,
External
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
Button, Table Slide
*Nut, Lock 1/4-20
Rail Assembly,
L.H.
Part
No.
815797
28
Bearing,
Arm
Scale, Miter
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "TT" 10-32 x 1/2
Indicator,
Miter
Arm Assembly
(see Fig. 5)
Table Boards Set (see Fig. 9)
*Screw, Pan Cross Ty T
1/4-20 x 1-1/2
*Screw,
1
27
*Screw, Pan Rec.
Type T 10-32 x 3/8
*Washer,
Flat
13/64 x ! 7/32 x 1/16
Screw, Hex Washer
3/8-16 x 1-1/2
- Not by Key Number
Key
No.
Description
B
B
D
i815881
1815922
'815753
8O2955-7
815766
802279-8
62410
815764
STD601103
41
42
815869
815935
43
44
805589-5
815856-1
45
46
47
48
49
815980
60208
815774
816115
815773
SP5103
507787
507788
507789
507796
x 5/8
x 1-1/4
1/4
Rail Assembly,
R.H
Washer, 17/64 x 3/4 x 1/16
Hardware Item may be Purchased
Locally.
77
SAW
Description
Screw, Pan Hd. Rec.
Type AB 1/4 x 1-1/4
Yoke and Motor Assembly
(see Fig. 3)
Guard Assembly (see Fig. 6)
Cabinet Assembly (see Fig. 7)
Base and Column Assembly
(see Fig. 2)
Cap, Trim R.H.
Ledge, Trim
Cover, Lever
Ring, Push-On
Lever, Lock
Bushing
Pin
Bracket, Pivot
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" #10-32 x 3/8
Cap, Trim L.H.
Screw Pan Hd. Ty "BT"
1/4 x 1/2
Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20
Screw, Hex Wash Hd.
5/16-18 x 1-1/4
x 1/2
Bushing
Nut, Push 1/4
Rivet 1/4 x 1/2
Cord with Plug
Cover, Rear Arm
Owners
Bag of
Bag of
Bag of
Bag of
Manual (Not Ills.)
Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
10
'iJ
2
37
13
\
/
14
38
28
S
29
20
16'
21
16J_
40
16/_/32
@
27
8
29
33
24
23
31
/
26
25
FIGURE
78
2
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Part
No=
Key
No.
815857-1
2
3
815649
141594-31
4
5
6
7
8
815774
815702
602O8
815763
816647
9
10
11
12
13
815672
330751
815754
815770
817149
14 815690
15 STD581043
16 63500
17
18
19
63618
63614
STD523107
*Standard
2 - BASE AND COLUMN
Key
No.
Description
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
3/8-16 x 1-1/2
Bearing, Arm
*Screw, Socket Hd. Cap
1/4-20 x 1-1/4
Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2
Lock Assembly
Nut, Push 1/4
Latch Arm
Part
No.
815772
STD582050
815699
STD511105
STD551210
815707
804182
9416187
28 STD551031
29 STD551131
30 STD541031
31 815646-2
32 8171O6
33 !STD541450
34 816977
35 816976
36 815771
37 815864
38 815273
Screw, Soc. Hal.
Ty "T" 1/4-20 x 3/4
Tube
Fastener
Bellows,
Tube
Gib, Column Tube
Screw, Locking
Set
1/4-20 x 5/8
Support,
Column
Tube
*Ring, Retaining
7/16
Washer, Thrust
.502 x .927 x .031
Gear,
ASSEMBLY
39
40
Pinion
Bearing
Lift Shaft
*Screw, Hex Hd.
5/16-18 x 3/4
Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.
79
!3540
,63062
Description
Bushing,
Elevation
*Ring, Retaining
1/2
Shaft, Elevating
Crank
*Screw, Pan Hd. 10-32 x 1/2
*Lockwasher,
Handwheel
External
#10
*Ring, Retaining
Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T"
5/16-18 x 3/4
*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16
I*Lockwasher,
External 5/16
*Nut, Hex 5/16-18
Base Assembly
Washer, Keyed
*Nut, Lock 1/2-13
Gear, Bevel
Shaft, Elevating
Nut, Elevation
Cover, Column
Support
Screw, Truss Rec. Hd.
1/4-20 x 1/2
Wrench,
Wrench,
Arbor
Shaft
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
8
9
11
12
13
14
_
15
\\
16
17
18
/
2
_21
MOTOR
19
31
0
20
/
CORD
12
32
22
26
29
28
i
24
!3
4/
25
FIGURE
8O
3
PARTS
2
21
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
2_
27
12
18
1313
FIGURE
84
5
16
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
2
815803
810214-2
3
4
5
6
7
STD551225
STD551025
75128
808380-6
8 815682
9 815683
10 817162
11 815678
12 815679-1
13 805561-10
14 815791
15 815677
16 815813
17 !815836
3 - YOKE AND MOTOR
Description
Cap, Motor Support
Screw, Low Hal.,
Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8
*Lockwasher, Internal 1/4
*Washer, 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/16
eMotor
Yoke Assembly (see Figure 4)
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 1
Cover, Handle
Handle
Grip
Washer, Shaft
Pin, Index
Washer, .505 x 7/8 x 1/16
Spring, Bevel
Lever, Bevel Lock
*Nut, Square 1/2-13
Wedge, Bevel Spring
*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.
l-Stock Item may be Secured Through the Hardware
Houses.
ASSEMBLY
Key
No.
Part
No.
18
19
20
21
815685
815788
815686
808380-2
22
STD600803
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
3O
31
815676
455734
815674
815673
STD541450
62498
9-32668
30495
9420474
32
815800
Department
Description
Cover, Yoke
Indicator, Bevel
Knob, Bevel Lock
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 3/8
*Screw, Pan Hd.
8-32 x 3/8
Shaft Support
Pin, Roll 1/8 x 3/4
Plate, Adjustment
Plate, Index
*Nut Lock 1/2-13
Collar, Blade
tBlade, Saw
Nut, Shaft
Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T"
10-32 x 1/2
Scale, Bevel
of Most Sears Retail or Catalog
Order
eAny attempt to repair this motor may result in unit misalignment and create a HAZARD unless repair is done
by a qualified service technician. Do not loosen the three screws holding the motor support to the motor. This
assembly is factory aligned. Repair service is available at your nearest Sears Store.
81
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
7
13
SAW
_14
6
5
/
2
3
gp
I
20......_
24
36
35
37
28
/
FIGURE
82
4
19
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
810214-3
2
3
4
5
6
7
STD315485
STD551031
817181
815805
815806
159572-98
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
815689
STD551062
815817
STD541462
62636
815693
STD541425
273229
16 816497
17 815671
18 815804
19 815692
20 STD532507
21 808380-2
*Standard Hardware
4-
YOKE
Key
No.
Description
Screw, Low Hd.
Cap 5/16-18 x 7/8
*Bearing, Ball .3150 I.D.
*Washer, 21/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
Wiper, Track
Support Indicator
Indicator Rip
Screw, Hex Wash
Ty "T" 8-32 x 1/4
Carriage
*Washer, .630 x 1-1/8 x 3/32
Nut, Sq. Lock
*Nut, Lock 5/8-11
Nut, Sq. 1/4-20
Bracket, Rip Lock
*Nut, Lock 1/4-20
Screw, Hex Hd.
Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1/2
Spring, Rip Lock
Cam, Rip Lock
Knob, Rip Lock
Lever, Rip Lock
*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 3/4
Screw, Pan Hd.,
Plastite No. 8 x 3/8
Item may be Purchased
Locally.
83
ASSEMBLY
Part
No.
22
23
24
25
26
27
STD541231
STD551131
815691
STD551012
815798
810214-2
28
29
3O
31
32
815645
109529
815679
81568O
9420474
33
34
35
36
815694
STD551031
63777
6O438
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
815807
STD41025
816988
816987
816986
STD512515
STD510602
62520
Description
*Nut, Hex Jam 5/16-18
*Lockwasher, External 5/16
Ring, Yoke Index
*Washer, 17/64 x 7/16 x 1/32
Lockwasher, High Collar 1/4
Screw, Low Hd.,
Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8
Yoke
Nut, Square 5/8-11
Pin, Index
Spring, Swivel
Screw, Hex Type "T"
10-32 x 3/8
Stud, Yoke Clamp
*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16
Bearing, Carriage
Washer, No. 2 Carriage
Bearing
Screw, Eccentric
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
Knob, Swivel
Wrench, Adjustment
Actuator, Swivel
*Screw, Pan Hd. 1/4-20 x 1-1/2
*Screw, Pan Hd. 6-32 x 1/4
Spacer
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Part
No.
Key
No.
5 - ARM ASSEMBLY
!Key]
No.
Description
PaN
No.
Desc_ption
i
1
2
3
4
5
815688
815809
815774
815790
STD601103
6
7
815703
815856
8
9
10
11
12
13
815779
815716
815704
STD551208
803709
STD600803
*Standard
Arm, Radial
Cable
Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2
Actuator Assembly
*Screw, Pan Rec.
Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8
Knob, Miter Lock
Screw, Hex Washer Hd.
5/16-18 x 3/4
Bushing
Trim, Arm
Housing, Switch
*Lockwasher, Internal #8
Connector, Wire
*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Type "T" 8-32 x 3/8
Hardware Item may be Purchased
Locally.
85
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
816113
815863
815976
815938
815786
816178
815867
815708
815868
815670
346030
25
26
27
60208
815785
69138
Switch, Locking
Key, Switch
Bezel, Switch
Pad, Guard
Label, Trim L.H.
Sleeve, Rubber
Spring, Compression
Spring, Miter Lock
Relief, Strain
Arm, Carriage Support
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.
Plastite #8 x 1/2
Push Nut, 1/4
Label. Trim R.H.
Ring, Cord
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
.o
/
4
17
,
18
10
1_
o
2
14
15
FIGURE
86
6
11
13
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Key
No.
Part
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
816264-1
120399
63258
63541
815816
STD551010
STD601103
8
9
STD541231
815815
*Standard
6 - GUARD
Key
No.
Description
Guard
*Nut, Square 5/16-18
Elbow, Dust
Bar, Anti-Kickback
Guide, Anti-Kickback
*Washer, 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32
*Screw, Pan Hal.
Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8
*Nut, Hex Jam 5/6-18
Pawl
Hardware Item may be Purchased
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Locally.
87
ASSEMBLY
Part
No.
STD581050
63270
816341
60435
816070
166785-3
63538
STD510805
STD551208
STD541008
Description
*Ring, Retaining
Spreader
Bearing (Includes Key #10)
Grip
Screw, Guard Clamp
Screw, Wing 5/16-18 x 2-3/4
Clamp, Guard
*Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x 1/2
*Lockwasher, External No. 8
*Nut, Hex 8-32
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
14
]
1
1
15
1
6
9
10
FIGURE
88
7
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
Part
No.
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
805589-5
815898
STD541025
STD551225
817150
STD541237
816111
817108
*Standard
7 - CABINET
Key
No.
Description
Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2
Skirt 44"
*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
*Lockwasher, External 1/4
Panel, L.H. Side
*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16
Cover
Spacer
Hardware Item may be Purchased
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
Locally.
89
ASSEMBLY
Part
No,
803835-1
815942
815993
815991
817151
815889
816336
507795
Description
Foot, Leveling
Stiffener, Shelf
Support, Caster
Support, Under
Panel, R.H. Side
Shelf, Lower
Stiffener, Shelf Rear
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
8 - MOTOR
ASSEMBLY
1
/
6
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
Part
No.
i507744
STD376116
64950
64951
64948
30582
*Standard
Hardware
Description
Housing, Motor
*Capacitor
Screw, Type "T"
Screw, Flat Head
Screw, Ground
Cap, Shaft
Item may be Purchased
90
Locally.
PARTS
LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN
10" RADIAL
MODEL NO. 113.198311
SAW
Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number
FIGURE
9- TABLE
ASSEMBLY
1
2
4
Key
No.
1
2
3
4
Part
No.
815757
815755
815758
817102
*Standard
Hardware
Description
Table, Rear
Table Spacer
Fence, Rip
Table, Front
Item may be Purchased
91
Locally.
NOTES
NOTES
NOTES
NOTES
F
_A,/R8
Operators
Manual
SERVICE
MODEL NO.
113.198311
10-INCH RADIAL SAW
Now that you have purchased your 10-inch radial saw, should a need
ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service
Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. stores. Be sure to provide all
pertinent facts when you call or visit.
The model number of your 10-inch radial saw will be found on a plate
attached to your saw, at the left-hand side of the base.
10" RADIAL SAW
WITH 44" CABINET
HOW TO ORDER
REPAIR PARTS
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
PART NUMBER
PART DESCRIPTION
MODEL NUMBER
113.198311
NAME OF ITEM
10-INCH RADIAL SAW
All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most
Sears stores. If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will
be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center
for handling.
Sold by SEARS,
Part No. SP5103
ROEBUCK
AND CO., Chicago,
Form No. SP5103
IL. 60684 U.S.A.
Printed
in U.S.A. 11/}