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2001 GMC Sierra 3500HD
Owner's Manual
Litho in U.S.A.
Part Number X2104 A First Edition
© Copyright General Motors Corporation 2000
All Rights Reserved i
ii
Table of Contents
Seats and Restraint Systems
Restraint Systems for Children Seats and Seat Controls
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
Features and Controls
Instrument Panel, Warning Lights and Gages
Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
Your Driving and the Road
Driving Tips for Various Road Conditions
Problems on the Road
iii
iv
Table of Contents (cont'd)
Checking Fluids and Lubricants
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Service and Appearance Care
Electrical System/Fuses and Circuit Breakers
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Periodic Maintenance Inspections
Maintenance Schedule
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
Table of Contents (cont'd)
Customer Assistance Information
Customer Satisfaction Procedures
Roadside Assistance and Courtesy Transportation
Warranty Information (See Warranty Manual)
Reporting Safety Defects on page 8-10
Section 9
Index
In the Index you will find an alphabetical listing of almost every subject in this manual.
You can use it to quickly find something you want to read.
Please refer to the last page of this manual for your
Service Station Guide
v
We support voluntary technician certification.
GENERAL MOTORS, GM, the GM Emblem, GMC,
SIERRA and the GMC Emblem are registered trademarks of General Motors Corporation.
This manual includes the latest information at the time it was printed. We reserve the right to make changes after that time without further notice. For vehicles first sold in
Canada, substitute the name “General Motors of Canada
Limited” for GMC whenever it appears in this manual.
Please keep this manual in your vehicle, so it will be there if you ever need it when you’re on the road.
If you sell the vehicle, please leave this manual in it so the new owner can use it.
For Canadian Owners Who Prefer a
French Language Manual:
Aux propriétaires canadiens: Vous pouvez vous procurer un exemplaire de ce guide en français chez votre concessionaire ou au:
Helm, Incorporated
P.O. Box 07130
Detroit, MI 48207
vi
How to Use this Manual
Many people read their owner’s manual from beginning to end when they first receive their new vehicle. If you do this, it will help you learn about the features and controls for your vehicle. In this manual, you’ll find that pictures and words work together to explain things quickly.
Safety Warnings and Symbols
You will find a number of safety cautions in this book.
We use a box and the word CAUTION to tell you about things that could hurt you if you were to ignore the warning.
CAUTION:
These mean there is something that could hurt you or other people.
In the caution area, we tell you what the hazard is.
Then we tell you what to do to help avoid or reduce the hazard. Please read these cautions. If you don’t, you or others could be hurt.
vii
You will also find a circle with a slash through it in this book. This safety symbol means “Don’t,”
“Don’t do this” or “Don’t let this happen.”
In the notice area, we tell you about something that can damage your vehicle. Many times, this damage would not be covered by your warranty, and it could be costly.
But the notice will tell you what to do to help avoid the damage.
When you read other manuals, you might see
CAUTION and NOTICE warnings in different colors or in different words.
You’ll also see warning labels on your vehicle. They use the same words, CAUTION or NOTICE.
Vehicle Damage Warnings
Also, in this book you will find these notices:
NOTICE:
These mean there is something that could damage your vehicle.
viii
Vehicle Symbols
These are some of the symbols you may find on your vehicle. Also see “Warning Lights and Gages” in the Index.
For example, these symbols are used on an original battery:
CAUTION
POSSIBLE
INJURY
PROTECT
EYES BY
SHIELDING
These symbols are important for you and your passengers whenever your vehicle is driven:
CHILD
RESTRAINT
TOP STRAP
ANCHOR
These symbols have to do with your lamps:
MASTER
LIGHTING
SWITCH
TURN
SIGNALS
These symbols are on some of your controls:
WINDSHIELD
WIPER
WINDSHIELD
WASHER
These symbols are used on warning and indicator lights:
ENGINE
COOLANT
TEMP
BATTERY
CHARGING
SYSTEM
Here are some other symbols you may see:
FUSE
LIGHTER
DOOR LOCK
UNLOCK
PARKING
LAMPS CAUSTIC
BATTERY
ACID COULD
CAUSE
BURNS
FASTEN
SEAT
BELTS
HAZARD
WARNING
FLASHER
WINDSHIELD
DEFROSTER
BRAKE
COOLANT
HORN
FUEL
AVOID
SPARKS OR
FLAMES
POWER
WINDOW
DAYTIME
RUNNING
LAMPS
REAR
WINDOW
DEFOGGER
ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE
SPARK OR
FLAME
COULD
EXPLODE
BATTERY
AIR BAG
FOG LAMPS
VENTILATING
FAN
ANTI-LOCK
BRAKES
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Model Reference
This manual covers this model:
3500HD Chassis Cab
x
Service Station Guide
For a More
Detailed Look at
What's Under the Hood
Battery
Cooling System
Tire Pressure
Spare Tire Pressure
Hood Release
Windshield Washer
Fluid
Engine Oil Dipstick
Oil Viscosity
Fuel
*For vehicles equipped with a diesel engine, see the Diesel Engine Supplement
Section 1 Seats and Restraint Systems
Here you’ll find information about the seats in your vehicle and how to use your safety belts properly. You can also learn about some things you should not do with safety belts.
Seats and Seat Controls
Safety Belts: They’re for Everyone
Here Are Questions Many People Ask
About Safety Belts
--
and the Answers
How to Wear Safety Belts Properly
Driver Position
Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy
Right Front Passenger Position
Center Passenger Position
Children
Restraint Systems for Children
Older Children
Safety Belt Extender
Checking Your Restraint Systems
Replacing Restraint System Parts
After a Crash
1-
1-1
Seats and Seat Controls
This section tells you about the seats
--
how to adjust them, and fold them up and down. It also tells you about reclining front seatbacks and head restraints.
Manual Front Seat
CAUTION:
You can lose control of the vehicle if you try to adjust a manual driver’s seat while the vehicle is moving. The sudden movement could startle and confuse you, or make you push a pedal when you don’t want to. Adjust the driver’s seat only when the vehicle is not moving.
You can adjust the seat with this lever located at the front of the seat.
Slide the lever toward the passenger’s side to unlock the seat. Using your body, slide the seat to where you want it. Then, release the lever and try to move the seat with your body in order to make sure the seat is locked into place.
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Power Lumbar Control (If Equipped)
If you have power lumbar adjustment, you can increase or decrease lumbar support in an area of the lower seatback.
Reclining Seatbacks
To increase support, press and hold the front of the rocker switch. Let go of the switch when the lower seatback reaches the desired level of support.
To decrease support, press and hold the rear of the rocker switch. Let go of the switch when the lower seatback reaches the desired level of support.
To adjust the front seatback, move the lever rearward.
Release the lever to lock the seatback where you want it.
Move the lever again rearward and the seatback will go to an upright position.
1-3
But don’t have a seatback reclined if your vehicle is moving.
CAUTION:
Sitting in a reclined position when your vehicle is in motion can be dangerous. Even if you buckle up, your safety belts can’t do their job when you’re reclined like this.
The shoulder belt can’t do its job because it won’t be against your body. Instead, it will be in front of you. In a crash you could go into it, receiving neck or other injuries.
The lap belt can’t do its job either. In a crash the belt could go up over your abdomen. The belt forces would be there, not at your pelvic bones.
This could cause serious internal injuries.
For proper protection when the vehicle is in motion, have the seatback upright. Then sit well back in the seat and wear your safety belt properly.
1-4
Head Restraints
Slide the head restraint up or down so that the top of the restraint is closest to the top of your ears. This position reduces the chance of a neck injury in a crash.
Seatback Latches
The front seatback folds forward to let you access the rear of the cab. To fold the seatback, pull the easy entry lever located on the outboard side of the seat.
To return the seatback to the upright position, push the seatback rearward until it latches. Then it will be locked into place.
CAUTION:
If the seatback isn’t locked, it could move forward in a sudden stop or crash. That could cause injury to the person sitting there. Always press rearward on the seatback to be sure it is locked.
1-5
Safety Belts: They’re for Everyone
This part of the manual tells you how to use safety belts properly. It also tells you some things you should not do with safety belts.
CAUTION:
Don’t let anyone ride where he or she can’t wear a safety belt properly. If you are in a crash and you’re not wearing a safety belt, your injuries can be much worse. You can hit things inside the vehicle or be ejected from it. You can be seriously injured or killed. In the same crash, you might not be if you are buckled up. Always fasten your safety belt, and check that your passengers’ belts are fastened properly too.
CAUTION:
It is extremely dangerous to ride in a cargo area, inside or outside of a vehicle. In a collision, people riding in these areas are more likely to be seriously injured or killed. Do not allow people to ride in any area of your vehicle that is not equipped with seats and safety belts. Be sure everyone in your vehicle is in a seat and using a safety belt properly.
Your vehicle has a light that comes on as a reminder to buckle up. See “Safety
Belt Reminder Light” in the Index.
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In most states and Canadian provinces, the law says to wear safety belts. Here’s why: They work.
You never know if you’ll be in a crash. If you do have a crash, you don’t know if it will be a bad one.
A few crashes are mild, and some crashes can be so serious that even buckled up a person wouldn’t survive.
But most crashes are in between. In many of them, people who buckle up can survive and sometimes walk away. Without belts they could have been badly hurt or killed.
After more than 30 years of safety belts in vehicles,
the facts are clear. In most crashes buckling up does matter ... a lot!
Why Safety Belts Work
When you ride in or on anything, you go as fast as it goes.
Take the simplest vehicle. Suppose it’s just a seat on wheels.
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Put someone on it.
1-8
Get it up to speed. Then stop the vehicle. The rider doesn’t stop.
The person keeps going until stopped by something.
In a real vehicle, it could be the windshield ...
or the instrument panel ...
1-9
or the safety belts!
With safety belts, you slow down as the vehicle does.
You get more time to stop. You stop over more distance, and your strongest bones take the forces. That’s why safety belts make such good sense.
Here Are Questions Many People Ask
About Safety Belts
--
and the Answers
Q:
Won’t I be trapped in the vehicle after an accident if I’m wearing a safety belt?
A:
You could be
--
whether you’re wearing a safety belt or not. But you can unbuckle a safety belt, even if you’re upside down. And your chance of being conscious during and after an accident, so you can unbuckle and get out, is much greater if you are belted.
Q:
If my vehicle has air bags, why should I have to wear safety belts?
A:
Air bags are in many vehicles today and will be in most of them in the future. But they are supplemental systems only; so they work with safety belts
--
not instead of them. Every air bag system ever offered for sale has required the use of safety belts. Even if you’re in a vehicle that has air bags, you still have to buckle up to get the most protection. That’s true not only in frontal collisions, but especially in side and other collisions.
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Q:
If I’m a good driver, and I never drive far from home, why should I wear safety belts?
A:
You may be an excellent driver, but if you’re in an accident
--
even one that isn’t your fault
--
you and your passengers can be hurt. Being a good driver doesn’t protect you from things beyond your control, such as bad drivers.
Most accidents occur within 25 miles (40 km) of home. And the greatest number of serious injuries and deaths occur at speeds of less than
40 mph (65 km/h).
Safety belts are for everyone.
How to Wear Safety Belts Properly
Adults
This part is only for people of adult size.
Be aware that there are special things to know about safety belts and children. And there are different rules for smaller children and babies. If a child will be riding in your vehicle, see the part of this manual called
“Children.” Follow those rules for everyone’s protection.
First, you’ll want to know which restraint systems your vehicle has.
We’ll start with the driver position.
Driver Position
This part describes the driver’s restraint system.
Lap-Shoulder Belt
The driver has a lap
shoulder belt. Here’s how to wear it properly.
1. Close and lock the door.
2. Adjust the seat so you can sit up straight.
To see how, see “Seats” in the Index.
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3. Pick up the latch plate and pull the belt across you.
Don’t let it get twisted.
4. Push the latch plate into the buckle until it clicks.
Pull up on the latch plate to make sure it is secure.
If the belt isn’t long enough, see “Safety Belt
Extender” at the end of this section.
Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
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The lap part of the belt should be worn low and snug on the hips, just touching the thighs. In a crash, this applies force to the strong pelvic bones. And you’d be less likely to slide under the lap belt. If you slid under it, the belt would apply force at your abdomen. This could cause serious or even fatal injuries. The shoulder belt should go over the shoulder and across the chest. These parts of the body are best able to take belt restraining forces.
The safety belt locks if there’s a sudden stop or a crash.
Shoulder Belt Height Adjuster
Before you begin to drive, move the shoulder belt adjuster to the height that is right for you.
To move it down, push in at the word PRESS and move the height adjuster to the desired position. You can move the adjuster up just by pushing up on the shoulder belt guide. After you move the adjuster to where you want it, try to move it down without pushing in to make sure it has locked into position.
Adjust the height so that the shoulder portion of the belt is centered on your shoulder. The belt should be away from your face and neck, but not falling off your shoulder.
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Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously hurt if your shoulder belt is too loose. In a crash, you would move forward too much, which could increase injury. The shoulder belt should fit against your body.
A:
The shoulder belt is too loose. It won’t give nearly as much protection this way.
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Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if your belt is buckled in the wrong place like this. In a crash, the belt would go up over your abdomen. The belt forces would be there, not at the pelvic bones. This could cause serious internal injuries. Always buckle your belt into the buckle nearest you.
A:
The belt is buckled in the wrong place.
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Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if your belt goes over an armrest like this. The belt would be much too high. In a crash, you can slide under the belt.
The belt force would then be applied at the abdomen, not at the pelvic bones, and that could cause serious or fatal injuries. Be sure the belt goes under the armrests.
A:
The belt is over an armrest.
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Q:
What’s wrong with this?
A:
The shoulder belt is worn under the arm. It should be worn over the shoulder at all times.
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured if you wear the shoulder belt under your arm. In a crash, your body would move too far forward, which would increase the chance of head and neck injury.
Also, the belt would apply too much force to the ribs, which aren’t as strong as shoulder bones.
You could also severely injure internal organs like your liver or spleen.
1-17
Q:
What’s wrong with this?
CAUTION:
You can be seriously injured by a twisted belt.
In a crash, you wouldn’t have the full width of the belt to spread impact forces. If a belt is twisted, make it straight so it can work properly, or ask your dealer to fix it.
A:
The belt is twisted across the body.
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Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy
Safety belts work for everyone, including pregnant women. Like all occupants, they are more likely to be seriously injured if they don’t wear safety belts.
To unlatch the belt, just push the button on the buckle.
The belt should go back out of the way.
Before you close the door, be sure the belt is out of the way. If you slam the door on it, you can damage both the belt and your vehicle.
A pregnant woman should wear a lap
shoulder belt, and the lap portion should be worn as low as possible, below the rounding, throughout the pregnancy.
1-19
The best way to protect the fetus is to protect the mother. When a safety belt is worn properly, it’s more likely that the fetus won’t be hurt in a crash. For pregnant women, as for anyone, the key to making safety belts effective is wearing them properly.
Right Front Passenger Position
To learn how to wear the right front passenger’s safety belt properly, see “Driver Position” earlier in this section.
The right front passenger’s safety belt works the same way as the driver’s safety belt
--
except for one thing.
If you ever pull the lap portion of the belt out all the way, you will engage the child restraint locking feature.
If this happens, just let the belt go back all the way and start again.
Center Passenger Position
Lap Belt
When you sit in the center seating position, you have a lap safety belt, which has no retractor. To make the belt longer, tilt the latch plate and pull it along the belt.
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To make the belt shorter, pull its free end as shown until the belt is snug.
Buckle, position and release it the same way as the lap part of a lap
shoulder belt. If the belt isn’t long enough, see “Safety Belt Extender” at the end of this section.
Make sure the release button on the buckle is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
Children
Everyone in a vehicle needs protection! This includes infants and all other children. Neither the distance traveled nor the age and size of the traveler changes the need, for everyone, to use safety restraints. In fact, the law in every state in the United States and in every
Canadian province says children up to some age must be restrained while in a vehicle.
Infants and Young Children
Every time infants and young children ride in vehicles, they should have the protection provided by the appropriate restraint. Young children should not use the vehicle’s safety belts, unless there is no other choice.
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CAUTION:
People should never hold a baby in their arms while riding in a vehicle. A baby doesn’t weigh much
--
until a crash. During a crash a baby will become so heavy it is not possible to hold it.
CAUTION: (Continued)
1-22
CAUTION: (Continued)
For example, in a crash at only 25 mph (40 km/h), a 12
lb. (5.5 kg) baby will suddenly become a
240
lb. (110 kg) force on a person’s arms. A baby should be secured in an appropriate restraint.
Q:
What are the different types of add
on child restraints?
A:
Add
on child restraints, which are purchased by the vehicle’s owner, are available in four basic types.
Selection of a particular restraint should take into consideration not only the child’s weight, height and age but also whether or not the restraint will be compatible with the motor vehicle in which it will be used.
For most basic types of child restraints, there are many different models available. When purchasing a child restraint, be sure it is designed to be used in a motor vehicle. If it is, the restraint will have a label saying that it meets federal motor vehicle safety standards.
The restraint manufacturer’s instructions that come with the restraint state the weight and height limitations for a particular child restraint.
In addition, there are many kinds of restraints available for children with special needs.
CAUTION:
Newborn infants need complete support, including support for the head and neck.
This is necessary because a newborn infant’s neck is weak and its head weighs so much compared with the rest of its body. In a crash, an infant in a rear
facing seat settles into the restraint, so the crash forces can be distributed across the strongest part of an infant’s body, the back and shoulders. Infants always should be secured in appropriate infant restraints.
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CAUTION:
The body structure of a young child is quite unlike that of an adult or older child, for whom the safety belts are designed. A young child’s hip bones are still so small that vehicle’s regular safety belt may not remain low on the hip bones, as it should. Instead, it may settle up around the child’s abdomen. In a crash, the belt would apply force on a body area that’s unprotected by any bony structure. This alone could cause serious or fatal injuries. Young children always should be secured in appropriate child restraints.
Restraint Systems for Children
An infant car bed (A), a special bed made for use in a motor vehicle, is an infant restraint system designed to restrain or position a child on a continuous flat surface.
Make sure that the infant’s head rests toward the center of the vehicle.
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A rear
facing infant seat (B) provides restraint with the seating surface against the back of the infant.
The harness system holds the infant in place and, in a crash, acts to keep the infant positioned in the restraint.
A forward
facing child seat (C
-
E) provides restraint for the child’s body with the harness and also sometimes with surfaces such as T
shaped or shelf
like shields.
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A booster seat (F
-
G) is a child restraint designed to improve the fit of the vehicle’s safety belt system.
Some booster seats have a shoulder belt positioner, and some high
back booster seats have a five
point harness. A booster seat can also help a child to see out the window.
Q:
How do child restraints work?
A:
A child restraint system is any device designed for use in a motor vehicle to restrain, seat, or position children. A built
in child restraint system is a permanent part of the motor vehicle. An add
on child restraint system is a portable one, which is purchased by the vehicle’s owner.
For many years, add
on child restraints have used the adult belt system in the vehicle. To help reduce the chance of injury, the child also has to be secured within the restraint. The vehicle’s belt system secures the add
on child restraint in the vehicle, and the add
on child restraint’s harness system holds the child in place within the restraint.
One system, the three
point harness, has straps that come down over each of the infant’s shoulders and buckle together at the crotch. The five
point harness system has two shoulder straps, two hip straps and a crotch strap. A shield may take the place of hip straps. A T
shaped shield has shoulder straps that are attached to a flat pad which rests low against the child’s body. A shelf
-
or armrest
type shield has straps that are attached to a wide, shelf
like shield that swings up or to the side.
1-26
When choosing a child restraint, be sure the child restraint is designed to be used in a vehicle. If it is, it will have a label saying that it meets federal motor vehicle safety standards.
Then follow the instructions for the restraint. You may find these instructions on the restraint itself or in a booklet, or both. These restraints use the belt system in your vehicle, but the child also has to be secured within the restraint to help reduce the chance of personal injury.
When securing an add
on child restraint, refer to the instructions that come with the restraint which may be on the restraint itself or in a booklet, or both, and to this manual. The child restraint instructions are important, so if they are not available, obtain a replacement copy from the manufacturer.
Where to Put the Restraint
The child restraint must be secured properly in the center or right front passenger seat.
Keep in mind that an unsecured child restraint can move around in a collision or sudden stop and injure people in the vehicle. Be sure to properly secure any child restraint in your vehicle
--
even when no child is in it.
Top Strap
Some child restraints have a top strap, or “top tether.”
It can help restrain the child restraint during a collision.
For it to work, a top strap must be properly anchored to the vehicle.
If the child restraint does not have a top strap, one can be obtained, in kit form, for many child restraints. Ask the child restraint manufacturer whether or not a kit is available.
1-27
If you need to have an anchor installed, your dealer can obtain a kit with anchor hardware and installation instructions specifically designed for this vehicle.
The dealer can then install the anchor for you.
This work will be done for you free of charge.
Or, you may install the anchor yourself using the instructions provided in the kit.
Securing a Child Restraint in a Center
Seat Position
In Canada, the law requires that forward
facing child restraints have a top strap, and that the strap be anchored. In the United States, some child restraints also have a top strap. If your child restraint has a top strap, it should be anchored.
You’ll be using the lap belt. Be sure to follow the instructions that came with the child restraint.
Secure the child in the child restraint when and as the instructions say.
See the earlier part about the top strap if the child restraint has one.
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1. Make the belt as long as possible by tilting the latch plate and pulling it along the belt.
2. Put the restraint on the seat.
3. Run the vehicle’s safety belt through or around the restraint. The child restraint instructions will show you how.
4. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
1-29
5. To tighten the belt, pull its free end while you push down on the child restraint. If you’re using a forward
facing child restraint, you may find it helpful to use your knee to push down on the child restraint as you tighten the belt.
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different directions to be sure it is secure.
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s safety belt. It will be ready to work for an adult or larger child passenger.
Securing a Child Restraint in the Right
Front Seat Position
You’ll be using the lap
shoulder belt. See the earlier part about the top strap if the child restraint has one.
Be sure to follow the instructions that came with the child restraint. Secure the child in the child restraint when and as the instructions say.
1. Put the restraint on the seat.
2. Pick up the latch plate, and run the lap and shoulder portions of the vehicle’s safety belt through or around the restraint. The child restraint instructions will show you how.
If the shoulder belt goes in front of the child’s face or neck, put it behind the child restraint.
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3. Buckle the belt. Make sure the release button is positioned so you would be able to unbuckle the safety belt quickly if you ever had to.
4. Pull the rest of the lap belt all the way out of the retractor to set the lock.
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1-32
5. To tighten the belt, feed the lap belt back into the retractor while you push down on the child restraint.
If you’re using a forward
facing child restraint, you may find it helpful to use your knee to push down on the child restraint as you tighten the belt.
6. Push and pull the child restraint in different directions to be sure it is secure.
To remove the child restraint, just unbuckle the vehicle’s safety belt and let it go back all the way. The safety belt will move freely again and be ready to work for an adult or larger child passenger.
Older Children
Older children who have outgrown booster seats should wear the vehicle’s safety belts.
If you have the choice, a child should sit next to a window so the child can wear a lap
shoulder belt and get the additional restraint a shoulder belt can provide.
Q:
What is the proper way to wear safety belts?
A:
If possible, an older child should wear a lap
shoulder belt and get the additional restraint a shoulder belt can provide. The shoulder belt should not cross the face or neck. The lap belt should fit snugly below the hips, just touching the top of the thighs. It should never be worn over the abdomen, which could cause severe or even fatal internal injuries in a crash.
In a crash, children who are not buckled up can strike other people who are buckled up, or can be thrown out of the vehicle. Older children need to use safety belts properly.
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CAUTION:
Never do this.
Here two children are wearing the same belt.
The belt can’t properly spread the impact forces.
In a crash, the two children can be crushed together and seriously injured. A belt must be used by only one person at a time.
Q:
What if a child is wearing a lap
shoulder belt, but the child is so small that the shoulder belt is very close to the child’s face or neck?
A:
Move the child toward the center of the vehicle, but be sure that the shoulder belt still is on the child’s shoulder, so that in a crash the child’s upper body would have the restraint that belts provide.
If the child is so small that the shoulder belt is still very close to the child’s face or neck, you might want to place the child in a seat that has a lap belt, if your vehicle has one.
CAUTION:
Never do this.
Here a child is sitting in a seat that has a lap
shoulder belt, but the shoulder part is behind the child. If the child wears the belt in this way, in a crash the child might slide under the belt.
The belt’s force would then be applied right on the child’s abdomen. That could cause serious or fatal injuries.
Wherever the child sits, the lap portion of the belt should be worn low and snug on the hips, just touching the child’s thighs. This applies belt force to the child’s pelvic bones in a crash.
1-35
Safety Belt Extender
If the vehicle’s safety belt will fasten around you, you should use it.
But if a safety belt isn’t long enough to fasten, your dealer will order you an extender. It’s free. When you go in to order it, take the heaviest coat you will wear, so the extender will be long enough for you. The extender will be just for you, and just for the seat in your vehicle that you choose. Don’t let someone else use it, and use it only for the seat it is made to fit. To wear it, just attach it to the regular safety belt.
Checking Your Restraint Systems
Now and then, make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it repaired.
Torn or frayed safety belts may not protect you in a crash. They can rip apart under impact forces.
If a belt is torn or frayed, get a new one right away.
Replacing Restraint System Parts
After a Crash
If you’ve had a crash, do you need new belts?
After a very minor collision, nothing may be necessary.
But if the belts were stretched, as they would be if worn during a more severe crash, then you need new belts.
If belts are cut or damaged, replace them. Collision damage also may mean you will need to have safety belt or seat parts repaired or replaced. New parts and repairs may be necessary even if the belt wasn’t being used at the time of the collision.
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Section 2 Features and Controls
Here you can learn about the many standard and optional features on your vehicle, and information on starting, shifting and braking. Also explained are the instrument panel and the warning systems that tell you if everything is working properly
--
and what to do if you have a problem.
Windows
Keys
Door Locks
Keyless Entry System (If Equipped)
Theft
Passlock
R
New Vehicle “Break
-
In”
Ignition Positions
Starting Your Gasoline Engine
Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)
Automatic Transmission Operation
Manual Transmission Operation
Parking Brake
Shifting Into PARK (P)
(Automatic Transmission Only)
Shifting Out of PARK (P)
(Automatic Transmission Only)
Parking Your Vehicle
(Manual Transmission Models Only)
Parking Over Things That Burn
Engine Exhaust
Running Your Engine While You’re Parked
(Automatic Transmission)
Tilt Wheel (If Equipped)
Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
Exterior Lamps
Interior Lamps
Mirrors
Storage Compartments
Instrument Panel
-
Your Information System
Instrument Panel Cluster
Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators
2-
2-1
Windows
CAUTION:
Leaving children in a vehicle with the windows closed is dangerous. A child can be overcome by the extreme heat and can suffer permanent injuries or even death from heat stroke. Never leave a child alone in a vehicle, especially with the windows closed in warm or hot weather.
Manual Windows
Turn the hand crank on each door to raise or lower the manual windows.
2-2
Power Windows (If Equipped)
If your vehicle has power windows, the controls are located on each of the doors.
The driver’s door also has a switch for the passenger window. The power windows will work when the ignition has been turned to ACCESSORY or RUN.
Press the rear of the switch to lower the window.
Press the front of the switch to raise the window.
The driver’s window also has an express
down feature that allows the window to be lowered without holding the switch. Press and hold AUTO for one second to activate the express
down mode. The express
down mode can be canceled at any time by pressing the opposite side of the switch. To open the window partway, lightly tap the switch until the window is at the desired position.
2-3
Keys
CAUTION:
Leaving children in a vehicle with the ignition key is dangerous for many reasons. A child or others could be badly injured or even killed.
They could operate the power windows or other controls or even make the vehicle move. Don’t leave the keys in a vehicle with children.
2-4
Your vehicle has one double
sided key for the ignition and the door locks.
If you ever lose your keys, your dealer will be able to assist you with obtaining new ones.
NOTICE:
Your vehicle has a number of new features that can help prevent theft. You can have a lot of trouble getting into your vehicle if you ever lock your key inside. You may even have to damage your vehicle to get in. So be sure you have an extra key.
Door Locks
CAUTION:
Unlocked doors can be dangerous.
D Passengers
--
especially children
--
can easily open the doors and fall out of a moving vehicle. When a door is locked, the handle won’t open it. You increase the chance of being thrown out of the vehicle in a crash if the doors aren’t locked. So, wear safety belts properly and lock the doors whenever you drive.
D Young children who get into unlocked
vehicles may be unable to get out. A child can be overcome by extreme heat and can suffer permanent injuries or even death from heat stroke. Always lock your vehicle whenever you leave it.
D Outsiders can easily enter through an
unlocked door when you slow down or stop your vehicle. Locking your doors can help prevent this from happening.
2-5
There are several ways to lock and unlock your vehicle.
From the outside, use your key or the keyless entry system, if your vehicle has this feature.
To lock the door from the inside, slide the manual lock located on your door down.
Power Door Locks (If Equipped)
Press the top of the power door lock switch, marked
LOCK, on either door to lock both doors at once.
Press the ribbed side of the switch to unlock both doors at once.
To unlock the door, slide the manual lock up.
Leaving Your Vehicle
If you are leaving the vehicle, take your keys, open your door and set the locks from inside. Then get out and close the door.
2-6
Keyless Entry System (If Equipped)
If your vehicle has this feature, you can lock and unlock your doors from about 3 feet (1 m) up to 30 feet (9 m) away using the remote keyless entry transmitter supplied with your vehicle.
Your keyless entry system operates on a radio frequency subject to Federal Communications Commission (FCC)
Rules and with Industry Canada.
This device complies with Part 15 of the FCC Rules.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) this device may not cause harmful interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation.
This device complies with RSS
-
210 of Industry Canada.
Operation is subject to the following two conditions:
(1) this device may not cause interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference received, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
Changes or modifications to this system by other than an authorized service facility could void authorization to use this equipment.
At times you may notice a decrease in range. This is normal for any remote keyless entry system. If the transmitter does not work or if you have to stand closer to your vehicle for the transmitter to work, try this:
D Check the distance. You may be too far from your vehicle. You may need to stand closer during rainy or snowy weather.
D Check the location. Other vehicles or objects may be blocking the signal. Take a few steps to the left or right, hold the transmitter higher, and try again.
D Check to determine if battery replacement or transmitter resynchronization is necessary. See the instructions that follow.
D If you’re still having trouble, see your dealer or a qualified technician for service.
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Operation
To unlock the driver’s door, press the UNLOCK button.
The interior lamps will come on for 40 seconds or until the ignition is turned on. If you press the UNLOCK button again within five seconds, the passenger door will unlock.
Press the LOCK button to lock both doors. The interior lamps will come on for two seconds as soon as all the doors are closed. If you press the LOCK button twice the horn will chirp to confirm that the doors have locked. This will only occur if the transmitter has been programmed with the ignition off.
If you do not want the horn to chirp as a confirmation that the doors have locked or unlocked, please consult your dealer.
Matching Transmitter(s) to Your Vehicle
Each remote keyless entry transmitter is coded to prevent another transmitter from unlocking your vehicle.
If a transmitter is lost or stolen, a replacement can be purchased through your dealer. Remember to bring any remaining transmitters with you when you go to your dealer. When the dealer matches the replacement transmitter to your vehicle, any remaining transmitters must also be matched. Once your dealer has coded the new transmitter, the lost transmitter will not unlock your vehicle. Each vehicle can have only two transmitters matched to it.
2-8
Battery Replacement
Under normal use, the battery in your remote keyless entry transmitter should last about two years.
You can tell the battery is weak if the transmitter won’t work at the normal range in any location. If you have to get close to your vehicle before the transmitter works, it’s probably time to change the battery.
NOTICE:
When replacing the battery, use care not to touch any of the circuitry. Static from your body transferred to these surfaces may damage the transmitter.
Use one three volt, type CR2032, or equivalent battery.
To replace the battery, do the following:
1. Insert a thin coin or flat
tip screwdriver to separate the bottom of the transmitter from the top.
2. Remove the battery and replace it with a new one, making sure the positive (+) side of the battery is facing down.
3. Snap the top and bottom together.
4. Test the operation of the transmitter with your vehicle. If the transmitter does not work, try synchronizing the transmitter with the receiver.
2-9
Resynchronization
Resynchronization may be necessary due to the security method used by this system. The transmitter does not send the same signal twice to the receiver. The receiver will not respond to a signal it has been sent previously.
This prevents anyone from recording and playing back the signal from the transmitter.
To resynchronize your transmitter, stand close to your vehicle and simultaneously press and hold the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons on the transmitter for at least five seconds. The door locks should cycle to confirm synchronization. If the locks do not cycle, see your dealer for service.
Theft
Vehicle theft is big business, especially in some cities.
Although your vehicle has a number of theft
deterrent features, we know that nothing we put on it can make it impossible to steal. However, there are ways you can help.
Key in the Ignition
If you leave your vehicle with the keys inside, it’s an easy target for joy riders or professional thieves
--
so don’t do it.
2-10
When you park your vehicle and open the driver’s door, you’ll hear a tone reminding you to remove your key from the ignition and take it with you. Always do this.
Your steering wheel will be locked, and so will your ignition. If you have an automatic transmission, taking your key out also locks your transmission. Also remember to lock the doors.
Parking at Night
Park in a lighted spot, close all windows and lock your vehicle. Remember to keep your valuables out of sight.
Put them in a storage area, or take them with you.
Parking Lots
Even if you park in a lot where someone will be watching your vehicle, it’s still best to lock it up and take your keys. But what if you have to leave your ignition key? What if you have to leave something valuable in your vehicle?
D Put your valuables in a storage area, like your glove box.
D If your vehicle has a remote keyless entry system, take the transmitter with you.
D Lock all the doors except the driver’s.
Passlock
R
Your vehicle is equipped with the Passlock theft
deterrent system.
Passlock is a passive theft
deterrent system. Passlock enables fuel if the ignition lock cylinder is turned with a valid key. If a correct key is not used or the ignition lock cylinder is tampered with, fuel is disabled.
During normal operation, the SECURITY light will go off approximately five seconds after the key is turned to RUN.
If the engine stalls and the SECURITY light flashes, wait until the light stops flashing before trying to restart the engine. Remember to release the key from START as soon as the engine starts.
If the engine is running and the SECURITY light comes on, you will be able to restart the engine if you turn the engine off. However, your Passlock system is not working properly and must be serviced by your dealer.
Your vehicle is not protected by Passlock at this time.
You may also want to check the fuses (see “Fuses and
Circuit Breakers” in the Index). See your dealer for service.
New Vehicle “Break
-
In”
NOTICE:
Your vehicle doesn’t need an elaborate
“break
in.” But it will perform better in the long run if you follow these guidelines:
D Keep your speed at 55 mph (88 km/h) or
less for the first 500 miles (805 km).
D Don’t drive at any one speed
--
fast or slow
--
for the first 500 miles (805 km).
Don’t make full
throttle starts.
D Avoid making hard stops for the first
200 miles (322 km) or so. During this time your new brake linings aren’t yet broken in. Hard stops with new linings can mean premature wear and earlier replacement.
Follow this breaking
in guideline every time you get new brake linings.
D Don’t tow a trailer during break
in.
See “Towing a Trailer” in the Index for more information.
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Ignition Positions
You can use the key to turn the ignition switch to five different positions.
ACCESSORY (A): This position lets you use things like the radio, power windows and the windshield wipers when the engine is off. Push in the key and turn it toward you. Your steering wheel will remain locked, just as it was before you inserted the key.
LOCK (B): This position locks your ignition, steering wheel and transmission. It’s a theft
deterrent feature.
You will only be able to remove your key when the ignition is turned to LOCK.
OFF (C): This position lets you turn off the engine, but still turn the steering wheel. It doesn’t lock the steering wheel like LOCK. Use OFF if you must have your vehicle in motion while the engine is off (for example, if your vehicle is being pushed).
RUN (D): This is the position for driving.
START (E): This position starts your engine.
CAUTION:
On manual transmission vehicles, turning the key to LOCK will lock the steering column and result in a loss of ability to steer the vehicle. This could cause a collision. If you need to turn the engine off while the vehicle is moving, turn the key only to OFF. Don’t press the key release button while the vehicle is moving.
2-12
NOTICE:
If your key seems stuck in LOCK and you can’t turn it, be sure you are using the correct key; if so, is it all the way in? If it is, then turn the steering wheel left and right while you turn the key hard. But turn the key only with your hand.
Using a tool to force it could break the key or the ignition switch. If none of this works, then your vehicle needs service.
Key Release Button (Manual Transmission)
The ignition key cannot be removed from the ignition of manual transmission vehicles unless the key release button is used.
To remove the key, turn the key to OFF, press and hold the button and turn the key to LOCK. Do not hold the button in while turning the key to OFF.
Starting Your Gasoline Engine
If you have a diesel engine, see “Starting Your Diesel
Engine” in the Diesel Engine Supplement.
Automatic Transmission
Move your shift lever to PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N).
Your engine won’t start in any other position
--
that’s a safety feature. To restart when you’re already moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only.
NOTICE:
Don’t try to shift to PARK (P) if your vehicle is moving. If you do, you could damage the transmission. Shift to PARK (P) only when your vehicle is stopped.
2-13
Manual Transmission
The gear selector should be in NEUTRAL and the parking brake engaged. Hold the clutch pedal to the floor and start the engine. Your vehicle won’t start if the clutch pedal is not all the way down
--
that’s a safety feature.
1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn the ignition key to START. When the engine starts, let go of the key. The idle speed will go down as your engine gets warm.
NOTICE:
Holding your key in START for longer than
15 seconds at a time will cause your battery to be drained much sooner. And the excessive heat can damage your starter motor. Wait about
15 seconds between each try to help avoid draining your battery or damaging your starter.
2. If it doesn’t start within 10 seconds, push the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor, while you hold the ignition key in START. When the engine starts, let go of the key and let up on the accelerator pedal. Wait about 15 seconds between each try.
2-14
When starting your engine in very cold weather
(below 0
_F or
-
18
_C), do this:
1. With your foot off the accelerator pedal, turn the ignition key to START and hold it there. When the engine starts, let go of the key. Use the accelerator pedal to maintain engine speed, if you have to, until your engine has run for a while.
2. If your engine still won’t start (or starts but then stops), it could be flooded with too much gasoline. Try pushing your accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and holding it there as you hold the key in START for about three seconds. When the engine starts, let go of the key and accelerator. If the vehicle starts briefly but then stops again, do the same thing, but this time keep the pedal down for five or six seconds. This clears the extra gasoline from the engine.
NOTICE:
Your engine is designed to work with the electronics in your vehicle. If you add electrical parts or accessories, you could change the way the engine operates. Before adding electrical equipment, check with your dealer. If you don’t, your engine might not perform properly.
Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)
(
In very cold weather, 0
_F
-
18
_C) or colder, the engine coolant heater can help. You’ll get easier starting and better fuel economy during engine warm
up. Usually, the coolant heater should be plugged in a minimum of four hours prior to starting your vehicle.
To Use the Engine Coolant Heater
1. Turn off the engine.
2. Open the hood and unwrap the electrical cord.
The engine coolant heater electrical cord is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment, near the power steering reservoir.
3. Plug it into a normal, grounded 110
volt AC outlet.
CAUTION:
Plugging the cord into an ungrounded outlet could cause an electrical shock. Also, the wrong kind of extension cord could overheat and cause a fire. You could be seriously injured. Plug the cord into a properly grounded three
prong
110
volt AC outlet. If the cord won’t reach, use a heavy
duty three
prong extension cord rated for at least 15 amps.
4. Before starting the engine, be sure to unplug and store the cord as it was before to keep it away from moving engine parts. If you don’t, it could be damaged.
How long should you keep the coolant heater plugged in? The answer depends on the outside temperature, the kind of oil you have, and some other things. Instead of trying to list everything here, we ask that you contact your dealer in the area where you’ll be parking your vehicle. The dealer can give you the best advice for that particular area.
2-15
Automatic Transmission Operation
There are several different positions for your shift lever.
If your vehicle is equipped with an automatic transmission, it features an electronic shift position indicator within the instrument panel cluster. This display must be powered any time the shift lever is capable of being moved out of PARK (P). This means that if your key is in OFF, rather than LOCK, there will be a small current drain on your battery which could discharge your battery over a period of time. If you have to leave your key in the ignition in OFF for an extended period, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery cable from the battery to prevent discharging your battery.
2-16
PARK (P): This position locks your rear wheels. It’s the best position to use when you start your engine because your vehicle can’t move easily.
CAUTION:
It is dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
Don’t leave your vehicle when the engine is running unless you have to. If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.
You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, always set your parking brake and move the shift lever to PARK (P).
See “Shifting Into PARK (P)” in the Index. If you’re pulling a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
REVERSE (R): Use this gear to back up.
NOTICE:
Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle is moving forward could damage your transmission. Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle is stopped.
To rock your vehicle back and forth to get out of snow, ice or sand without damaging your transmission, see
“Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow” in the Index.
NEUTRAL (N): In this position, your engine doesn’t connect with the wheels. To restart the engine when you’re already moving, use NEUTRAL (N) only. Also, use NEUTRAL (N) when your vehicle is being towed.
CAUTION:
Shifting out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) while your engine is “racing” (running at high speed) is dangerous. Unless your foot is firmly on the brake pedal, your vehicle could move very rapidly. You could lose control and hit people or objects. Don’t shift out of PARK (P) or
NEUTRAL (N) while your engine is racing.
NOTICE:
Damage to your transmission caused by shifting out of PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) with the engine racing isn’t covered by your warranty.
2-17
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (
B): This position is for normal driving. If you need more power for passing, and you’re:
D Going less than about 35 mph (56 km/h), push your accelerator pedal about halfway down.
D Going about 35 mph (56 km/h) or more, push the accelerator all the way down.
You’ll shift down to the next gear and have more power.
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (
B) can be used when towing a trailer, carrying a heavy load or driving on steep hills. You may want to shift the transmission to
THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often.
THIRD (3): This position is also used for normal driving, however it offers more power and lower fuel economy than AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (
B).
SECOND (2): This position gives you more power, but lower fuel economy. You can use SECOND (2) on hills.
It can help control your speed as you go down steep mountain roads, but then you would also want to use your brakes off and on.
If you manually select SECOND (2), the transmission will drive in second gear. You may use this feature for reducing torque to the rear wheels when you are trying to start your vehicle from a stop on slippery road surfaces.
2-18
FIRST (1): This position gives you even more power, but lower fuel economy than SECOND (2). You can use it on very steep hills, or in deep snow or mud. If the selector lever is put in FIRST (1) while the vehicle is moving forward, the transmission won’t shift into first gear until the vehicle is going slowly enough.
NOTICE:
If your rear wheels can’t rotate, don’t try to drive. This might happen if you were stuck in very deep sand or mud or were up against a solid object. You could damage your transmission.
Also, if you stop when going uphill, don’t hold your vehicle there with only the accelerator pedal. This could overheat and damage the transmission. Use your brakes or shift into
PARK (P) to hold your vehicle in position on a hill.
Manual Transmission Operation
5-Speed
Here’s how to operate your transmission.
FIRST (1) is intended only for heavy loads and is not recommended for normal driving.
During the first 500 miles (805 km) of vehicle use, start your vehicle moving in FIRST (1). This allows clutch components to break
in properly.
2-19
FIRST (1): Press the clutch pedal and shift into
FIRST (1). Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the accelerator pedal. Shift into FIRST (1) only when the vehicle is below 5 mph (8 km/h). If you try to shift down into FIRST (1) at excessive vehicle speeds, the shift lever will not move into the FIRST (1) position until vehicle speed is reduced.
SECOND (2): Press the clutch pedal and shift into
SECOND (2). Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the accelerator pedal.
You can shift into SECOND (2) when you’re going less than 20 mph (32 km/h). If you’ve come to a complete stop and it’s hard to shift into SECOND (2), put the shift lever into NEUTRAL and let up on the clutch. Press the clutch pedal back down. Then shift into SECOND (2).
If you try to downshift into SECOND (2) at excessive vehicle speeds, the shift lever will not move into the
SECOND (2) position until the vehicle speed is reduced.
THIRD (3): Press the clutch pedal and shift into
THIRD (3). Then, slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the accelerator pedal.
FOURTH (4) and FIFTH (5): Shift into the higher forward gears the same way you do for THIRD (3).
Slowly let up on the clutch pedal as you press the accelerator pedal.
To stop, let up on the accelerator pedal and press the brake pedal. Just before the vehicle stops, press the clutch pedal and the brake pedal, and shift to NEUTRAL.
NEUTRAL (N): Use this position when you start or idle your engine.
REVERSE (R): To back up, first press down the clutch pedal. Wait about five seconds for the internal parts to stop spinning, and then shift into REVERSE (R). Let up on the clutch pedal slowly while pressing the accelerator pedal.
NOTICE:
Shift to REVERSE (R) only after your vehicle is stopped. Shifting to REVERSE (R) while your vehicle is moving could damage your transmission.
Also, use REVERSE (R), along with the parking brake, when turning off your engine and parking your vehicle.
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Shift Speeds
Up Shift Light
CAUTION:
If you skip a gear when you downshift, you could lose control of your vehicle. You could injure yourself or others. Don’t shift down more than one gear at a time when you downshift.
If you have a manual transmission, you may have a SHIFT light. This light will show you when to shift to the next higher gear for best fuel economy.
If your speed drops below 20 mph (32 km/h), or if the engine is not running smoothly, you should downshift to the next lower gear. You may have to downshift two or more gears to keep the engine running smoothly or for good performance.
When this light comes on, you can shift to the next higher gear if weather, road and traffic conditions let you. For the best fuel economy, accelerate slowly and shift when the light comes on.
While you accelerate, it is normal for the light to go on and off if you quickly change the position of the accelerator. Ignore the SHIFT light when you downshift.
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Parking Brake
To set the parking brake, hold the regular brake pedal down with your right foot. Push down the parking brake pedal with your left foot.
If the ignition is on, the brake system warning light will come on.
To release the parking brake, hold the regular brake pedal down.
Pull the lever, located just above the parking brake pedal, marked
BRAKE RELEASE.
NOTICE:
Driving with the parking brake on can cause your rear brakes to overheat. You may have to replace them, and you could also damage other parts of your vehicle. Always check to be sure your parking brake is fully released before you drive.
If you are towing a trailer and are parking on any hill, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index. That section shows what to do first to keep the trailer from moving.
It is recommended that the propshaft
mounted parking brake be burnished as part of the new vehicle break
in.
The parking brake will work best after it has been burnished following these instructions.
Make 10 stops, using the parking brake foot pedal, from
20 mph (32 km/h) about 2 1/2 miles (4 km) apart. In between stops, drive the vehicle at 20 mph (32 km/h).
If the ignition is on when the parking brake is released, the brake system warning light will go off.
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Shifting Into PARK (P)
(Automatic Transmission Only)
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
If you have left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly. You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, use the steps that follow. If you’re pulling a trailer, see
“Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
1. Hold the brake pedal down with your right foot and set the parking brake.
2. Move the shift lever into PARK (P) position like this:
D Pull the lever toward you.
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D Move the lever up as far as it will go.
3. Turn the ignition key to LOCK.
4. Remove the key and take it with you. If you can leave your vehicle with the ignition key in your hand, your vehicle is in PARK (P).
Leaving Your Vehicle With the Engine
Running (Automatic Transmission Only)
CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to leave your vehicle with the engine running. Your vehicle could move suddenly if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. And, if you leave the vehicle with the engine running, it could overheat and even catch fire. You or others could be injured. Don’t leave your vehicle with the engine running unless you have to.
If you have to leave your vehicle with the engine running, be sure your vehicle is in PARK (P) and the parking brake is firmly set before you leave it. After you move the shift lever into PARK (P), hold the regular brake pedal down. Then, see if you can move the shift lever away from PARK (P) without first pulling it toward you. If you can, it means that the shift lever wasn’t fully locked into PARK (P).
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Torque Lock (Automatic Transmission)
If you are parking on a hill and you don’t shift your transmission into PARK (P) properly, the weight of the vehicle may put too much force on the parking pawl in the transmission. You may find it difficult to pull the shift lever out of PARK (P). This is called “torque lock.”
To prevent torque lock, set the parking brake and then shift into PARK (P) properly before you leave the driver’s seat. To find out how, see “Shifting Into
PARK (P)” in the Index.
When you are ready to drive, move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) before you release the parking brake.
If torque lock does occur, you may need to have another vehicle push yours a little uphill to take some of the pressure from the parking pawl in the transmission, so you can pull the shift lever out of PARK (P).
Shifting Out of PARK (P)
(Automatic Transmission Only)
Your vehicle has an Automatic Transmission Shift Lock
Control System. You have to fully apply your regular brakes before you can shift from PARK (P) when the ignition is in RUN. See “Automatic Transmission” in the Index.
If you cannot shift out of PARK (P), ease pressure on the shift lever and push the shift lever all the way up into PARK (P) as you maintain brake application. Then, move the shift lever to any gear you want.
If you ever hold the brake pedal down but still can’t shift out of PARK (P), try this:
1. Turn the key to OFF.
2. Apply and hold the brake until the end of Step 4.
3. Shift to NEUTRAL (N).
4. Start the vehicle and shift to the drive gear you want.
5. Have the system fixed as soon as you can.
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Parking Your Vehicle
(Manual Transmission Models Only)
Before you get out of your vehicle, move the shift lever into REVERSE (R), and firmly apply the parking brake.
Once the shift lever has been placed into REVERSE (R) with the clutch pedal pressed in, you can turn the ignition key to OFF, remove the key and release the clutch.
If you are parking on a hill, or if you are pulling a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
Parking Over Things That Burn
CAUTION:
Shifting the transfer case to NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the manual transmission is in gear. You or someone else could be seriously injured. Be sure to set the parking brake before placing the transfer case in
NEUTRAL. See “Parking Brake” in the Index.
CAUTION:
Things that can burn could touch hot exhaust parts under your vehicle and ignite. Don’t park over papers, leaves, dry grass or other things that can burn.
2-26
Engine Exhaust
CAUTION:
Engine exhaust can kill. It contains the gas carbon monoxide (CO), which you can’t see or smell. It can cause unconsciousness and death.
You might have exhaust coming in if:
D Your exhaust system sounds strange
or different.
D Your vehicle gets rusty underneath.
D Your vehicle was damaged in a collision.
D Your vehicle was damaged when driving over
high points on the road or over road debris.
D Repairs weren’t done correctly.
D Your vehicle or exhaust system had been
modified improperly.
If you ever suspect exhaust is coming into your vehicle:
D Drive it only with all the windows down to
blow out any CO; and
D Have your vehicle fixed immediately.
Running Your Engine While You’re
Parked (Automatic Transmission)
It’s better not to park with the engine running. But if you ever have to, here are some things to know.
CAUTION:
Idling the engine with the climate control system off could allow dangerous exhaust into your vehicle. See the earlier Caution under
“Engine Exhaust.”
Also, idling in a closed
in place can let deadly carbon monoxide (CO) into your vehicle even if the fan switch is at the highest setting. One place this can happen is a garage. Exhaust
--
with
CO
--
can come in easily. NEVER park in a garage with the engine running.
Another closed
in place can be a blizzard.
See “Blizzard” in the Index.
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CAUTION:
It can be dangerous to get out of your vehicle if the shift lever is not fully in PARK (P) with the parking brake firmly set. Your vehicle can roll.
Don’t leave your vehicle when the engine is running unless you have to. If you’ve left the engine running, the vehicle can move suddenly.
You or others could be injured. To be sure your vehicle won’t move, even when you’re on fairly level ground, always set your parking brake and move the shift lever to PARK (P).
Tilt Wheel (If Equipped)
A tilt steering wheel allows you to adjust the steering wheel before you drive.
Follow the proper steps to be sure your vehicle won’t move. See “Shifting Into PARK (P)” in the Index.
If you’re pulling a trailer, see “Towing a Trailer” in the Index.
Horn
Press the pad in the center of the steering wheel to sound the horn.
You can also raise it to the highest level to give your legs more room when you enter and exit the vehicle.
To tilt the wheel, hold the steering wheel and pull the lever. Move the steering wheel to a comfortable level, then release the lever to lock the wheel in place.
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Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
The lever on the left side of the steering column includes the following:
D Turn and Lane Change Signals
D Headlamp High/Low
-
Beam Changer
D Windshield Wipers
D Windshield Washer
D Cruise Control (If Equipped)
Turn and Lane Change Signals
The turn signal has two upward (for right) and two downward (for left) positions. These positions allow you to signal a turn or a lane change.
To signal a turn, move the lever all the way up or down.
When the turn is finished, the lever will return automatically.
An arrow located on the instrument panel cluster will flash in the direction of the turn or lane change.
To signal a lane change, just raise or lower the lever until the arrow starts to flash. Hold it there until you complete your lane change. The lever will return by itself when you release it.
If you move the lever all the way up or down, and the arrow flashes at twice the normal rate, a signal bulb may be burned out and other drivers may not see your turn signal.
If a bulb is burned out, replace it to help avoid an accident. If the arrows don’t go on at all when you signal a turn, check for burned
out bulbs and a blown fuse (see “Fuses and Circuit Breakers” in the Index).
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Headlamp High/Low-Beam Changer
To change the headlamps from low to high beam or high to low beam, pull the multifunction lever all the way toward you. Then release it.
When the high beams are on, this light located on the instrument panel cluster also will be on.
Windshield Wipers
You control the windshield wipers by turning the knob with the wiper symbol on it.
For a single wiping cycle, turn the knob to MIST. Hold it there until the wipers start, then let go. The wipers will stop after one cycle. If you want more cycles, hold the knob on MIST longer.
You can set the wiper speed for a long or short delay between wipes. Use this setting in light rain or snow.
Turn the knob to choose the delay time. The closer to
LOW, the shorter the delay.
For steady wiping at low speed, turn the knob to the LOW position. For high
speed wiping, turn the knob further, to HIGH. To stop the wipers, turn the knob to OFF.
Damaged wiper blades may prevent you from seeing well enough to drive safely. To avoid damage, be sure to clear ice and snow from the wiper blades before using them. If they are frozen to the windshield, carefully loosen or thaw them. If your blades do become damaged, get new blades or blade inserts.
Heavy ice or snow can overload your wipers. The windshield wiper motor is protected from overload by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools. Although protected from electrical overload, overload due to heavy snow, etc. may cause wiper linkage damage. Always clear ice and heavy snow from the windshield before using your windshield wipers.
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Windshield Washer
CAUTION:
At the top of the lever, there’s a paddle with the word PUSH on it. To spray washer fluid on the windshield, push the paddle.
Washer fluid will spray as long as you push the paddle.
When you let go of the paddle, the wipers will continue to wipe for a few seconds and then either stop or return to the preset speed.
The use of a hood
mounted air deflector may adversely affect windshield wiper and washer performance.
Cruise Control (If Equipped)
With cruise control, you can maintain a speed of about
25 mph (40 km/h) or more without keeping your foot on the accelerator. This can really help on long trips.
Cruise control does not work at speeds below about
25 mph (40 km/h).
In freezing weather, don’t use your washer until the windshield is warmed. Otherwise the washer fluid can form ice on the windshield, blocking your vision.
When you apply your brakes, the cruise control shuts off.
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CAUTION:
D Cruise control can be dangerous where you
can’t drive safely at a steady speed. So, don’t use your cruise control on winding roads or in heavy traffic.
D Cruise control can be dangerous on
slippery roads. On such roads, fast changes in tire traction can cause needless wheel spinning, and you could lose control. Don’t use cruise control on slippery roads.
Setting Cruise Control
CAUTION:
If you leave your cruise control switch on when you’re not using cruise, you might hit a button and go into cruise when you don’t want to. You could be startled and even lose control. Keep the cruise control switch off until you want to use cruise control.
1. Move the cruise switch to ON.
2. Get up to the speed you want.
3. Press in the SET button at the end of the lever and release it.
4. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal.
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Resuming a Set Speed
Suppose you set your cruise control at a desired speed and then you apply the brake. This, of course, shuts off the cruise control. But you don’t need to reset it.
Once you’re going about 25 mph (40 km/h) or more, you can move the cruise switch from ON to R/A
(Resume/Accelerate) briefly.
You’ll go right back up to your chosen speed and stay there.
Remember, if you hold the switch at R/A longer, the vehicle will keep going faster until you release the switch or apply the brake. So unless you want to go faster, don’t hold the switch at R/A.
Increasing Speed While Using Cruise Control
There are two ways to go to a higher speed:
D Use the accelerator pedal to get to the higher speed.
Press the SET button at the end of the lever, then release the button and the accelerator pedal. You’ll now cruise at the higher speed.
D Move the cruise switch from ON to R/A. Hold it there until you get up to the speed you want, and then release the switch. (To increase your speed in very small amounts, move the switch to R/A briefly.
Each time you do this, your vehicle will go about
1 mph (1.6 km/h) faster.)
Reducing Speed While Using Cruise Control
There are two ways to reduce your speed while using cruise control:
D Press the SET button at the end of the lever until you reach the lower speed you want, then release it.
D To slow down in very small amounts, press the button briefly. Each time you do this, you’ll go about
1 mph (1.6 km/h) slower.
Passing Another Vehicle While Using Cruise Control
Use the accelerator pedal to increase your speed. When you take your foot off the pedal, your vehicle will slow down to the cruise control speed you set earlier.
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Using Cruise Control on Hills
How well your cruise control will work on hills depends upon your speed, load and the steepness of the hills.
When going up steep hills, you may have to step on the accelerator pedal to maintain your speed. If the steepness of the hill causes the vehicle speed to drop more than 15 mph (24 km/h) below the set speed, your cruise control will automatically disengage. When going downhill, you may have to brake or shift to a lower gear to keep your speed down. Of course, applying the brake takes you out of cruise control. Many drivers find this to be too much trouble and don’t use cruise control on steep hills.
Ending Cruise Control
There are two ways to turn off the cruise control:
D Step lightly on the brake pedal or
D move the cruise switch to OFF.
Erasing Speed Memory
When you turn off the cruise control or the ignition, your cruise control set speed memory is erased.
Exterior Lamps
Your parking lamp and headlamp knob is located on the driver’s side of your instrument panel.
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Turn the knob clockwise to the parking lamp symbol, to turn on the following:
D Parking Lamps
D Sidemarker Lamps
D Clearance Lamps
D Taillamps
D License Plate Lamps
D Instrument Panel Lights
Turn the knob clockwise again to the master lighting symbol to turn on all the lamps listed as well as the headlamps.
Turn the knob counterclockwise, to OFF, to turn off your lamps.
You can turn your headlamps from high to low beams by pulling on the turn signal/multifunction lever.
Headlamps On Reminder
A tone will sound when your headlamps are turned on and the key is turned to OFF, LOCK or ACCESSORY.
If you need to use your headlamps when the key is turned to OFF, LOCK or ACCESSORY, the buzzer can be turned off by turning the thumbwheel next to the parking lamp/headlamp knob all the way down.
Daytime Running Lamps
Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) can make it easier for others to see the front of your vehicle during the day.
DRL can be helpful in many different driving conditions, but they can be especially helpful in the short periods after dawn and before sunset. Fully functional daytime running lights are required on all vehicles first sold in Canada.
The DRL system will make your headlamps come on at a reduced brightness when the following conditions are met:
D the ignition is on,
D the headlamp switch is off and
D the parking brake is released.
When the DRL are on, only your headlamps will be on.
The taillamps, sidemarker and other lamps won’t be on.
Your instrument panel won’t be lit up either.
When it begins to get dark, your DRL indicator light is a reminder to turn your headlamp knob on. The other lamps that come on with your headlamps will also come on.
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When you turn off the headlamp knob, the regular lamps will go off, and your headlamps will change to the reduced brightness of DRL.
To idle your vehicle with the DRL off, set the parking brake. The DRL will stay off until you release the parking brake.
As with any vehicle, you should turn on the regular headlamp system when you need it.
Interior Lamps
Instrument Panel Intensity Control
The instrument panel intensity control is located to the right of the parking lamps and headlamp knob.
Turn the thumbwheel up to adjust the instrument panel lights. Turn the thumbwheel up to the first notch to return the radio display and shift position indicator LED display to full intensity when the headlamps or parking lamps are on. To turn on the dome lamps (with the vehicle doors closed) turn the thumbwheel up to the second notch position.
Illuminated Entry
Your vehicle is equipped with an illuminated entry feature.
When a door is opened, the dome lamps will come on if the dome lamp button is out. When all the doors are closed, or the dome lamp button is pressed in, the lamps will stay on for a short period of time and will then go out.
Front Reading Lamps (If Equipped)
If your vehicle has reading lamps, press the button next to the lamp to turn the lamp on or off. The lamps can be adjusted to point in the direction you want.
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Dome Lamp
The dome lamp will come on when you open a door.
You can also turn the dome lamp on by turning the thumbwheel, located next to the parking lamps and headlamp knob, all the way up to the second notch.
In this position, the dome lamp will remain on whether a door is opened or closed.
You can use the DOME OVERRIDE button, located below the parking lamp and headlamp knob, to set the dome lamp to come on automatically when a door is opened, or to remain off. To turn the lamp off, press the button “in”. Press the button again and return it to the
“out” position to set the dome light to come on.
Cargo Lamp (If Equipped)
Press the top of the switch to turn the cargo lamp on.
Press the bottom of the switch to turn it off.
The dome lamp must be on and one of the doors open for the cargo lamp to work.
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Mirrors
Inside Day/Night Rearview Mirror
Camper-Type Outside Mirrors
(If Equipped)
Push the tab under the mirror rearward to reduce glare from headlamps behind you after dark. Pull the tab forward for normal daytime operation.
Outside Manual Adjust Mirrors
Adjust your outside mirrors so you can see a little of the side of your vehicle and have a clear view of any objects behind you. Some mirrors can be folded in, to enter narrow doorways.
The use of hood
mounted air deflectors and add
on convex mirror attachments may adversely affect mirror performance.
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If your vehicle is equipped with the camper
type mirrors, they can be adjusted so that you can have a clear view of any objects that may be behind you.
1. To adjust the mirrors when hauling a slide
in camper or towing a trailer, turn the mirror by pushing the mirror head toward the front of the vehicle.
2. Turn the mirror head, so that the mirror surface faces the rear of the vehicle.
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West Coast-Type Outside Mirrors
(If Equipped)
If your vehicle is equipped with the west coast
type mirrors, they can be adjusted so that you can have a clear view of any objects that may be behind you.
A. Outer Mirror Frame
B. Mirror Head
C. Nut
Convex Outside Mirror
Your passenger’s side mirror may be convex. A convex mirror’s surface is curved so you can see more from the driver’s seat.
CAUTION:
A convex mirror can make things (like other vehicles) look farther away than they really are.
If you cut too sharply into the right lane, you could hit a vehicle on your right. Check your inside mirror or glance over your shoulder before changing lanes.
The mirrors can be adjusted by turning the mirror head (B) and moving the outer mirror frame (A) backward or forward. You can also loosen the nut (C) on the top and bottom of the outer mirror frame to tilt the mirror head.
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Storage Compartments
Your vehicle includes a number of storage compartments for storage of often
used items.
Some vehicles have storage areas in the instrument panel. Use these spaces for items such as gloves or small books.
Some models have a storage pocket on each of the front doors and some vehicles may have a storage area behind the seat.
Glove Box
To open your glove box, move the button toward the passenger’s side and pull the door open.
Instrument Panel Cupholder
Your vehicle has a cupholder located in the middle of the instrument panel.
To use the cupholder, pull the handle and slide the cupholder tray open.
To close the cupholder, slide it back into the instrument panel.
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Armrest Storage Compartment
(If Equipped)
Your vehicle may have a center armrest storage compartment in the front bench seat.
To open it, fold down the armrest and press the latch handle located at the front of the armrest. Then, let the lid pop up and swing open.
The storage compartment has a cassette/compact disc holder. The holder will store up to five compact disc cases and up to six cassette tape cases.
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The storage compartment also has a folding writing table on top of the armrest lid.
To use the writing table, pull the latch at the rear of the table and swing the writing table forward. Use it to hold a pad of paper and a pen.
Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter
The ashtray is located at the bottom of the instrument panel. Pull on the notch in the ashtray door to open it.
NOTICE:
If you store paper or other things that burn in your ashtrays, they could be set on fire by cigarettes or other smoking materials. That could cause a fire and possibly damage your vehicle.
Do not store papers and other things that burn in your ashtrays.
To remove the front ashtray, press the retainer spring and pivot the ashtray toward you. To reinstall the ashtray, place the bottom part of the ashtray on the pivot bar at the bottom of its mounting on the instrument panel. Then turn the ashtray back to its original position.
Accessory Power Outlets
NOTICE:
Power outlets are designed for accessory plugs only. Do not hang any type of accessory or accessory bracket from the plug. Improper use of the power outlet can cause damage not covered by your warranty.
Two accessory power outlets are located near the cigarette lighter. Use these outlets to power mobile telephones or other devices designed to operate with vehicle electrical systems.
Certain power accessory plugs may not be compatible to the power accessory outlet and could result in blown vehicle or adapter fuses. If you experience a problem, see your dealer for additional information on the power accessory plugs.
Sun Visors
To block out glare, you can swing down the visors. You can also swing them out to help block glare at the front and side windows.
Some visors have an extender on the inside edge. When the visor is down, pull the extender out for extra glare coverage at the front or side.
Some visors have mirrors with lamps. If the mirror has lamps, they will come on when you lift the mirror cover.
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Instrument Panel
-
Your Information System
2-44
The main components of your instrument panel are the following:
A. Dome Override Button
B. Exterior Lamp Controls
C. Air Outlets
D. Multifunction Lever
E. Instrument Panel Cluster
F. Gearshift Lever
G. Audio System
H. Comfort Control System
I. Glove Box
J. Fuse Block
K. Hood Release
L. Parking Brake Release
M. Tilt Lever (If Equipped)
N. Storage Area (If Equipped)
O. Accessory Power Outlets
P. Cupholder
Q. Ashtray
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Instrument Panel Cluster
United States automatic transmission shown, Canada similar
Your instrument panel cluster is designed to let you know at a glance how your vehicle is running. You’ll know how fast you’re going, about how much fuel you have and many other things you’ll need to know to drive safely and economically.
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Speedometer and Odometer
Your speedometer lets you see your speed in both miles per hour (mph) and kilometers per hour (km/h).
Your odometer shows how far your vehicle has been driven, in either miles (used in the United States) or kilometers (used in Canada).
Tamper
-
Resistant Odometer
Your odometer is tamper
resistant. The odometer will show silver lines between the numbers if someone tries to turn it back.
You may wonder what happens if your vehicle needs a new odometer installed. If the new odometer can be set to the mileage total of the old odometer, then it must be.
But if it can’t, then it’s set at zero, and a label must be put on the driver’s door to show the old mileage reading when the new odometer was installed.
Trip Odometer
The trip odometer can tell you how far your vehicle has been driven since you last set the trip odometer to zero.
To reset the trip odometer, fully press the reset button located near the trip odometer readout. If the reset button is not fully pressed, the trip odometer may not go all the way back to zero. If it doesn’t, you may have to press the reset button again to reset the readout to zero.
Tachometer
Your tachometer displays the engine speed in revolutions per minute (rpm).
NOTICE:
On vehicles with a manual transmission, if you operate the engine with the tachometer in the red area, your engine or other parts could be damaged.
Damage to your engine or vehicle caused by operating the engine in the red area isn’t covered by your vehicle warranty. Don’t operate the engine with the tachometer in the red area.
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Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators
This part describes the warning lights and gages that may be on your vehicle. The pictures will help you locate them.
Warning lights and gages can signal that something is wrong before it becomes serious enough to cause an expensive repair or replacement. Paying attention to your warning lights and gages could also save you or others from injury.
Warning lights come on when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. As you will see in the details on the next few pages, some warning lights come on briefly when you start the engine just to let you know they’re working. If you are familiar with this section, you should not be alarmed when this happens.
Gages can indicate when there may be or is a problem with one of your vehicle’s functions. Often gages and warning lights work together to let you know when there’s a problem with your vehicle.
When one of the warning lights comes on and stays on when you are driving, or when one of the gages shows there may be a problem, check the section that tells you what to do about it. Please follow this manual’s advice.
Waiting to do repairs can be costly
--
and even dangerous. So please get to know your warning lights and gages. They’re a big help.
Safety Belt Reminder Light
When the key is turned to RUN or START, a tone will come on for about eight seconds to remind people to fasten their safety belts, unless the driver’s safety belt is already buckled.
The safety belt light will also come on and stay on for about 20 seconds, then it will flash for about 55 seconds.
If the driver’s belt is already buckled, neither the tone nor the light will come on.
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Charging System Indicator Light
This light should come on briefly when you turn on the ignition, before starting the engine, as a check to show you it is working.
Voltmeter
When your engine is not running, but the ignition is in RUN, this gage shows your battery’s state of charge in DC volts.
After the engine starts, the light should go out. If it stays on or comes on while you are driving, you may have a problem with your charging system. It could indicate a problem with the generator drive belt, or some other charging system problem. Have it checked right away.
Driving while this light is on could drain your battery.
If you must drive a short distance with this light on, it helps to turn off all your accessories, such as the radio and the air conditioner.
When the engine is running, the gage shows the condition of the charging system. Readings between the low and high warning zones indicate the normal operating range.
Readings in the low warning zone may occur when a large number of electrical accessories are operating in the vehicle and the engine is left at an idle for an extended period. This condition is normal since the charging system is not able to provide full power at engine idle. As engine speeds are increased, this condition should correct itself as higher engine speeds allow the charging system to create maximum power.
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You can only drive for a short time with the reading in either warning zone. If you must drive, turn off all unnecessary accessories.
Readings in either warning zone indicate a possible problem in the electrical system. Have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible.
Brake System Warning Light
When the ignition is on, the brake system warning light will come on when you set your parking brake. The light will stay on if your parking brake doesn’t release fully.
If it stays on after your parking brake is fully released, it means you have a brake problem.
Your vehicle’s hydraulic brake system is divided into two parts. If one part isn’t working, the other part can still work and stop you. For good braking, though, you need both parts working well.
If the warning light comes on, there could be a brake problem. Have your brake system inspected right away.
United States Canada
This light should come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN. If it doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there’s a problem.
If the light comes on while you are driving, pull off the road and stop carefully. You may notice that the pedal is harder to push. Or, the pedal may go closer to the floor. It may take longer to stop. If the light is still on, have the vehicle towed for service. See “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
CAUTION:
Your brake system may not be working properly if the brake system warning light is on. Driving with the brake system warning light on can lead to an accident. If the light is still on after you’ve pulled off the road and stopped carefully, have the vehicle towed for service.
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Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light
With the anti
lock brake system, this light will come on when you start your engine and may stay on for several seconds.
That’s normal.
Engine Coolant Temperature Gage
This gage shows the engine coolant temperature.
If the light stays on, or comes on when you’re driving, your vehicle needs service. If the regular brake system warning light isn’t on, you still have brakes, but you don’t have anti
lock brakes. If the regular brake system warning light is also on, you don’t have anti
lock brakes and there’s a problem with your regular brakes. See
“Brake System Warning Light” earlier in this section.
The anti
lock brake system warning light should come on briefly when you turn the ignition key to RUN. If the light doesn’t come on then, have it fixed so it will be ready to warn you if there is a problem.
It also provides an indicator of how hard your vehicle is working. During a majority of the operation, the gage will read 210
_F (100_C) or less. If you are pulling a load or going up hills, it is normal for the temperature to fluctuate and approach the 260
_F (125_C) mark. If the gage reaches the 260
_F (125_C) mark, it indicates that the cooling system is working beyond its capacity.
See “Engine Overheating” in the Index.
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Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Service
Engine Soon Light in the United States or Check Engine Light in Canada)
(Gasoline Engine)
United States Canada
Your vehicle is equipped with a computer which monitors operation of the fuel, ignition and emission control systems.
This system is called OBD II (On
-
Board
Diagnostics
-
Second Generation) and is intended to assure that emissions are at acceptable levels for the life of the vehicle, helping to produce a cleaner environment. The SERVICE ENGINE SOON or
CHECK ENGINE light comes on to indicate that there is a problem and service is required. Malfunctions often will be indicated by the system before any problem is apparent. This may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle. This system is also designed to assist your service technician in correctly diagnosing any malfunction.
NOTICE:
If you keep driving your vehicle with this light on, after a while, your emission controls may not work as well, your fuel economy may not be as good and your engine may not run as smoothly.
This could lead to costly repairs that may not be covered by your warranty.
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NOTICE:
Modifications made to the engine, transmission, exhaust, intake or fuel system of your vehicle or the replacement of the original tires with other than those of the same Tire Performance Criteria
(TPC) can affect your vehicle’s emission controls and may cause the SERVICE ENGINE SOON or
CHECK ENGINE light to come on.
Modifications to these systems could lead to costly repairs not covered by your warranty. This may also result in a failure to pass a required
Emission Inspection/Maintenance test.
This light should come on, as a check to show you it is working, when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. If the light doesn’t come on, have it repaired.
This light will also come on during a malfunction in one of two ways:
D Light Flashing
--
A misfire condition has been detected. A misfire increases vehicle emissions and may damage the emission control system on your vehicle. Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required.
D Light On Steady
--
An emission control system malfunction has been detected on your vehicle.
Dealer or qualified service center diagnosis and service may be required.
If the Light Is Flashing
The following may prevent more serious damage to your vehicle:
D Reducing vehicle speed.
D Avoiding hard accelerations.
D Avoiding steep uphill grades.
D If you are towing a trailer, reduce the amount of cargo being hauled as soon as it is possible.
If the light stops flashing and remains on steady, see “If the Light Is On Steady” following.
If the light continues to flash, when it is safe to do so,
stop the vehicle. Find a safe place to park your vehicle.
Turn the key off, wait at least 10 seconds and restart the engine. If the light remains on steady, see “If the Light
Is On Steady” following. If the light is still flashing, follow the previous steps, and drive the vehicle to your dealer or qualified service center for service.
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If the Light Is On Steady
You may be able to correct the emission system malfunction by considering the following:
Did you recently put fuel into your vehicle?
If so, reinstall the fuel cap, making sure to fully install the cap. See “Filling Your Tank” in the Index. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. A loose or missing fuel cap will allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. A few driving trips with the cap properly installed should turn the light off.
Did you just drive through a deep puddle of water?
If so, your electrical system may be wet. The condition will usually be corrected when the electrical system dries out. A few driving trips should turn the light off.
Have you recently changed brands of fuel?
If so, be sure to fuel your vehicle with quality fuel. See
“Fuel” in the Index. Poor fuel quality will cause your engine not to run as efficiently as designed. You may notice this as stalling after start
up, stalling when you put the vehicle into gear, misfiring, hesitation on acceleration or stumbling on acceleration. (These conditions may go away once the engine is warmed up.)
This will be detected by the system and cause the light to turn on.
If you experience one or more of these conditions, change the fuel brand you use. It will require at least one full tank of the proper fuel to turn the light off.
If none of the above steps have made the light turn off, have your dealer or qualified service center check the vehicle. Your dealer has the proper test equipment and diagnostic tools to fix any mechanical or electrical problems that may have developed.
Emissions Inspection and Maintenance Programs
Some state/provincial and local governments have or may begin programs to inspect the emission control equipment on your vehicle. Failure to pass this inspection could prevent you from getting a vehicle registration.
Here are some things you need to know in order to help your vehicle pass an inspection:
Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the
SERVICE ENGINE SOON or CHECK ENGINE light is on or not working properly.
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Your vehicle will not pass this inspection if the OBD
(on
board diagnostic) system determines that critical emission control systems have not been completely diagnosed by the system. The vehicle would be considered not ready for inspection. This can happen if you have recently replaced your battery or if your battery has run down. The diagnostic system is designed to evaluate critical emission control systems during normal driving. This may take several days of routine driving. If you have done this and your vehicle still does not pass the inspection for lack of OBD system readiness, see your dealer or qualified service center to prepare the vehicle for inspection.
Reduced Engine Power
The REDUCED ENGINE
POWER light will come on when the cooling system temperature gets too hot and the engine further enters the engine coolant protection mode.
See “Engine Overheating” in the Index for further information.
Oil Pressure Gage
United States Canada
The oil pressure gage shows the engine oil pressure in psi (pounds per square inch) when the engine is running.
Canadian vehicles indicate pressure in kPa (kilopascals).
CAUTION:
Don’t keep driving if the oil pressure is low.
If you do, your engine can become so hot that it catches fire. You or others could be burned.
Check your oil as soon as possible and have your vehicle serviced.
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NOTICE:
Damage to your engine from neglected oil problems can be costly and is not covered by your warranty.
Oil pressure may vary with engine speed, outside temperature and oil viscosity, but readings above the low pressure zone indicate the normal operating range.
A reading in the low pressure zone may be caused by a dangerously low oil level or some other problem causing low oil pressure. Check your oil as soon as possible.
Security Light
This light will come on briefly when you turn the key to START.
The light will come on for five seconds after the key is turned to ON and then go off. If the light flashes, the
Passlock
R
System has entered a tamper mode. If the vehicle fails to start, see “Passlock” in the Index.
If the light comes on continuously while driving and stays on, there may be a problem with the Passlock
System. Your vehicle will not be protected by Passlock, and you should see your GM dealer.
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Up Shift Light (If Equipped)
This light is used on models with manual transmissions.
Check Gages Light
This light will come on briefly when you are starting the engine.
The SHIFT indicator light will help you get the best fuel economy. See “Shift Light” or “Shift Speeds” in this section for more information.
Daytime Running Lamps Indicator Light
This light goes on whenever the DRL are on.
If the light comes on and stays on while you are driving, it could indicate a problem with your vehicle. It could be a problem with your oil pressure, coolant temperature, or some other problem. Check your various gages to see if they are in the warning zones. If they are, have your vehicle serviced right away.
When it begins to get dark, the DRL indicator light comes on as a reminder to turn on your headlamps.
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Fuel Gage
United States Canada
The fuel gage, when the ignition is on, tells you about how much fuel you have left in your tank.
The gage will first indicate empty before you are out of fuel, and you should get more fuel as soon as possible.
Here are four situations you may experience with your fuel gage. None of these indicate a problem with the fuel gage.
D At the gas station, the fuel pump shuts off before the gage reads full.
D It takes a little more or less fuel to fill up than the fuel gage indicated. For example, the gage may have indicated the tank was half full, but it actually took a little more or less than half the tank’s capacity to fill the tank.
D The gage moves a little when you turn a corner or speed up.
D The gage doesn’t go back to empty when you turn off the ignition.
If you have a diesel engine, see “Fuel Gage” in the
Diesel Engine Supplement.
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Section 3 Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
In this section, you’ll find out how to operate the comfort control and audio systems offered with your vehicle.
Be sure to read about the particular systems supplied with your vehicle.
Comfort Controls
Air Conditioning
Heating
Defogging and Defrosting
Ventilation System
Audio Systems
Setting the Clock
AM
AM
-
FM Stereo
-
FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player
(If Equipped)
Understanding Radio Reception
Tips About Your Audio System
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player
Fixed Mast Antenna
3-
3-1
Comfort Controls
Heater Control System
Fan Knob
The knob located on the left side of the heating system control panel regulates the fan speed. The knob has four speed positions. To increase airflow, turn the knob toward HI. To decrease airflow, turn it toward LO.
To turn the fan off, turn the knob to OFF.
Temperature Knob
The middle knob on the control panel lets you select the temperature of the air flowing into the passenger area of your vehicle. This knob will allow you to adjust the air temperature independently of the fan knob settings. Turn the knob clockwise, toward the red area, for warmer air. Turn the knob counterclockwise, toward the blue area, for cooler air.
Mode Knob
The right knob on the control panel allows you to choose the direction of air delivery. The knob can be placed in any position between two mode settings to blend the flow of air.
VENT: This setting directs air through the instrument panel outlets.
BI
-
LEVEL: This setting divides airflow between the floor outlets and instrument panel outlets.
HEATER: This setting directs air through the floor outlets.
BLEND: This setting directs air to the heater outlets and toward the windshield.
DEFROST: This setting directs air toward the windshield.
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Heater and Air Conditioning Control
System (If Equipped)
Fan Knob
The knob located on the left side of the heating system control panel regulates the fan speed. The knob has four speed positions. To increase airflow, turn the knob toward HI. To decrease airflow, turn it toward LO. To turn the fan off, turn the knob to OFF. If you have the air conditioner on, turning the fan knob to OFF also turns off the A/C compressor.
With the fan knob in OFF while driving, the airflow will be directed to the floor air outlets. The mode knob will not redirect airflow to other selected outlet positions.
This is normal operation for OFF.
Temperature Knob
The middle knob on the control panel lets you select the relative temperature of the air flowing into the passenger area of your vehicle. This knob will allow you to adjust the relative air temperature independently of the fan and knob settings. Turn the knob clockwise, toward the red area, for warmer air. Turn the knob counterclockwise, toward the blue area, for cooler air.
Mode Knob
The right knob on the control panel allows you to choose the direction of air delivery. The knob can be placed in any position between two mode settings to blend the flow of air.
VENT: This setting directs air through the instrument panel outlets.
BI
-
LEVEL: This setting divides airflow between the floor air outlets and instrument panel air outlets.
HEATER: This setting directs air through the heater floor air outlets.
BLEND: This setting directs air to the heater air outlets and toward the windshield.
DEFROST: This setting directs air toward the windshield.
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Air Conditioning
On hot days, open the windows long enough to let hot air inside escape. This reduces the time it takes for your vehicle to cool down. Then keep your windows closed for the air conditioner to work its best.
A/C: Press this button to turn the air conditioning on and off. The system will cool and dehumidify the air inside the vehicle when the A/C light is on.
Air conditioning will be automatically disabled when the outside temperature drops below a level at which air conditioning is ineffective.
With the A/C on, turn the temperature knob to MAX for maximum cooling. This setting also puts the system in the recirculation mode and helps to maximize your air conditioner’s performance and your vehicle’s fuel economy.
RECIRCULATION: Pressing the
RECIRCULATION button limits the amount of outside dust and odors entering your vehicle. This button will be automatically disabled anytime the mode knob is turned to
BLEND or DEFROST mode. (The recirculation indicator light will come on even though the recirculation button is not selected). This setting also cools the air the fastest.
After the vehicle’s interior reaches a comfortable temperature, turn the temperature knob clockwise, to place the air conditioning system in the normal mode.
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Heating
The heater works best if you keep your windows closed while using it. On cold days, use the HEATER or BI
-
LEVEL setting with the temperature knob in the red area.
If you use the engine coolant heater before starting your engine in cold weather, 20
_F (
-
8
_C) or lower, your heating system will produce warmer air faster, to heat the passenger compartment in cold weather.
The use of an engine coolant heater also reduces the time it takes for the engine to reach normal operating temperature, and shortens the time it takes the heater to reach full output. For more information, see
“Engine Coolant Heater” in the Index.
Defogging and Defrosting
On cool, humid days, use BLEND to keep the windshield and side windows clear. Use DEFROST to remove fog or ice from the windshield in extremely humid or cold conditions. Use DEFROST with the temperature knob toward the red area and the fan control toward HI.
Ventilation System
For mild outside temperatures when little heating or cooling is needed, use VENT to direct outside air through your vehicle. Air will flow through the instrument panel outlets.
Your vehicle’s ventilation system supplies outside air to the inside of your vehicle when it is moving. With the side windows closed, air will flow into the front air inlet grilles, through the vehicle, and out the air exhaust valves.
Outside air will also enter the vehicle when the heater or the air conditioning fan is running, unless you have the recirculation button pushed in. For more information on the recirculation button, see “Air Conditioning” earlier in this section.
Your vehicle has air outlets in the center and on the sides of your instrument panel. You can move the outlets from side
to
side or up and down to direct the flow of air, or close the outlets altogether. When you close an outlet, it will increase the flow of air coming out of any outlets that are open. These outlets do not completely shut off airflow when in the closed position.
3-5
Ventilation Tips
D Keep the hood and front air inlet free of ice, snow or any other obstruction (such as leaves). The heater and defroster will work far better, reducing the chance of fogging the inside of your windows.
D When you enter a vehicle in cold weather, turn the fan to HI for a few moments before driving.
This helps clear the intake ducts of snow and moisture, and reduces the chance of fogging the inside of your windows.
D Keep the air path under the front seats clear of objects.
This helps air to circulate throughout your vehicle.
D The use of hood air deflectors may adversely affect the performance of the heating and air conditioning system.
Audio Systems
Your audio system has been designed to operate easily and give years of listening pleasure. You will get the most enjoyment out of it if you acquaint yourself with it first. Find out what your audio system can do and how to operate all its controls, to be sure you’re getting the most out of the advanced engineering that went into it.
Setting the Clock
Press SET. Within five seconds, press and hold the
SEEK right arrow until the correct minute appears on the display. Press and hold the SEEK left arrow until the correct hour appears on the display.
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AM-FM Stereo
Playing the Radio
VOLUME: This knob turns the system on and off and controls the volume. To increase volume and turn the radio on, turn the knob clockwise. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume and turn the radio off.
RECALL: Display the time with the ignition off by pressing the recall knob. When the radio is playing, press this knob to recall the station frequency.
Finding a Station
AM
-
FM: Press the lower knob to switch between
AM, FM1 and FM2. The display shows your selection.
TUNE: Turn the lower knob to tune in radio stations.
SEEK: Press the right arrow to tune to the next higher station and the left arrow to tune to the next lower station and stay there.
SCAN: Select either AM, FM1 or FM2 mode and press both SEEK buttons to listen to a few seconds of each radio station. SCAN will light up on the display.
The radio will automatically SCAN to the next higher station, play that station for a few seconds, then SCAN to the next higher station. Press VOLUME or both
SEEK buttons to stop scanning.
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PUSHBUTTONS: The four numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to
14 stations (seven AM and seven FM). Just:
1. Turn the radio on.
2. Press AM
-
FM to select the band.
3. Tune in the desired station.
4. Press SET. (SET will appear on the display.)
5. Press one of the four pushbuttons within five seconds. Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.
6. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.
In addition to the four stations already set, up to three more stations may be preset on each band by pressing two adjoining buttons at the same time. Just:
1. Tune in the desired station.
2. Press SET. (SET will appear on the display.)
3. Press two adjoining buttons at the same time, within five seconds. Whenever you press the same two buttons, the station you set will return.
4. Repeat the steps for each pair of pushbuttons.
Setting the Tone
BASS: Slide this lever up or down to increase or decrease bass.
TREB: Slide this lever up or down to increase or decrease treble. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.
Adjusting the Speakers
BAL: Turn the control behind the upper knob to move the sound to the left or right speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers.
FADE: Turn the control behind the lower knob to move the sound to the front or rear speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers.
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AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player
(If Equipped)
Playing the Radio
VOLUME: This knob turns the system on and off and controls the volume. To increase volume and turn the radio on, turn the knob clockwise. Turn it counterclockwise to decrease volume and turn the radio off.
RECALL: Display the time with the ignition off by pressing this knob. When the radio is playing, press this knob to recall the station frequency.
Finding a Station
AM
-
FM: Press the lower knob to switch between AM,
FM1 and FM2.
TUNE: Turn the lower knob to tune in radio stations.
SEEK: Press the right arrow to tune to the next higher station and the left arrow to tune to the next lower station.
PUSHBUTTONS: The four numbered pushbuttons let you return to your favorite stations. You can set up to
21 stations (seven AM, seven FM1 and seven FM2). Just:
1. Turn the radio on.
2. Press AM
-
FM to select the band.
3. Tune in the desired station.
4. Press SET. (SET will appear on the display.)
5. Press one of the four pushbuttons within five seconds.
Whenever you press that numbered button, the station you set will return.
6. Repeat the steps for each pushbutton.
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In addition to the four stations already set, up to three more stations may be preset on each band by pressing two adjoining buttons at the same time. Just:
1. Tune in the desired station.
2. Press SET. (SET will appear on the display.)
3. Press two adjoining buttons at the same time, within five seconds. Whenever you press the same two buttons, the station you set will return.
4. Repeat the steps for each pair of pushbuttons.
P.SCAN: Select either AM, FM1 or FM2 mode and press both SEEK buttons to scan through each of your preset stations. The system will scan through and play each preset station stored on your pushbuttons for a few seconds. Press either SEEK button or RECALL to stop scanning through the preset stations.
Setting the Tone
BASS: Slide this lever up or down to increase or decrease bass.
TREB: Slide this lever up or down to increase or decrease treble. If a station is weak or noisy, you may want to decrease the treble.
Adjusting the Speakers
BAL: Turn the control behind the upper knob to move the sound to the left or right speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers.
FADE: Turn the control behind the lower knob to move the sound to the front or rear speakers. The middle position balances the sound between the speakers.
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Playing a Cassette Tape
Your tape player is built to work best with tapes that are up to 30 to 45 minutes long on each side. Tapes longer than that are so thin they may not work well in this player.
Once the tape is playing, use the knobs for VOLUME, BAL,
FADE, BASS and TREB just as you do for the radio.
REV: Press the SEEK left arrow to reverse the cassette tape.
Press the SEEK right arrow to stop reversing the tape.
FWD: Press the SEEK right arrow to advance the cassette tape. Press the SEEK left arrow to stop forwarding the tape.
RECALL: Press this knob to switch tape sides.
EJECT: Press this button to remove the tape or stop the tape and play the radio.
CLN: If this message appears on the display, the cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to the tapes and player. See “Care of
Your Cassette Tape Player” in the Index. After you clean the player, press and hold EJECT for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display
---
to show the indicator was reset.
CD Adapter Kits
It is possible to use a portable CD player adapter kit with your cassette tape player after activating the bypass feature on your tape player.
To activate the bypass feature, use the following steps:
1. Turn the radio on.
2. Insert the adapter into the cassette slot.
3. Within five seconds, press and hold the REV and
FWD buttons at the same time for three seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash, showing that the broken tape detection feature is no longer active.
This override routine will remain active until EJECT is pressed.
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Understanding Radio Reception
AM
The range for most AM stations is greater than for
FM, especially at night. The longer range, however, can cause stations to interfere with each other. AM can pick up noise from things like storms and power lines. Try reducing the treble to reduce this noise if you ever get it.
FM Stereo
FM stereo will give you the best sound, but FM signals will reach only about 10 to 40 miles (16 to 65 km). Tall buildings or hills can interfere with FM signals, causing the sound to come and go.
Tips About Your Audio System
Hearing damage from loud noise is almost undetectable until it is too late. Your hearing can adapt to higher volumes of sound. Sound that seems normal can be loud and harmful to your hearing. Take precautions by adjusting the volume control on your radio to a safe sound level before your hearing adapts to it.
To help avoid hearing loss or damage:
D Adjust the volume control to the lowest setting.
D Increase volume slowly until you hear comfortably and clearly.
NOTICE:
Before you add any sound equipment to your vehicle
--
like a tape player, CB radio, mobile telephone or two
way radio
--
be sure you can add what you want. If you can, it’s very important to do it properly. Added sound equipment may interfere with the operation of your vehicle’s engine, Delphi Delco Electronics radio or other systems, and even damage them.
Your vehicle’s systems may interfere with the operation of sound equipment that has been added improperly.
So, before adding sound equipment, check with your dealer and be sure to check Federal rules covering mobile radio and telephone units.
3-12
Care of Your Cassette Tape Player
A tape player that is not cleaned regularly can cause reduced sound quality, ruined cassettes or a damaged mechanism. Cassette tapes should be stored in their cases away from contaminants, direct sunlight and extreme heat. If they aren’t, they may not operate properly or may cause failure of the tape player.
Your tape player should be cleaned regularly after every
50 hours of use. Your radio may display CLN to indicate that you have used your tape player for 50 hours without resetting the tape clean timer. If this message appears on the display, your cassette tape player needs to be cleaned. It will still play tapes, but you should clean it as soon as possible to prevent damage to your tapes and player. If you notice a reduction in sound quality, try a known good cassette to see if it is the tape or the tape player at fault. If this other cassette has no improvement in sound quality, clean the tape player.
The recommended cleaning method for your cassette tape player is the use of a scrubbing action, non
abrasive cleaning cassette with pads which scrub the tape head as the hubs of the cleaner cassette turn.
The recommended cleaning cassette is available through your dealer (GM Part No. 12344789).
When using a scrubbing action, non
abrasive cleaning cassette, it is normal for the cassette to eject because your unit is equipped with a cut tape detection feature and a cleaning cassette may appear as a broken tape.
To prevent the cleaning cassette from being ejected, use the following steps.
1. Turn the ignition to RUN or ACCESSORY.
2. Turn the radio on.
3. Insert the scrubbing action cleaning cassette.
4. Within 5 seconds, press and hold the REV and FWD buttons at the same time for three seconds. The tape symbol on the display will flash, showing that the cut tape detection feature is no longer active.
5. Eject the cleaning cassette after the manufacturer’s recommended cleaning time.
When the cleaning cassette has been ejected, the cut tape detection feature is active again.
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You may also choose a non
scrubbing action, wet
type cleaner which uses a cassette with a fabric belt to clean the tape head. This type of cleaning cassette will not eject on its own. A non
scrubbing action cleaner may not clean as thoroughly as the scrubbing type cleaner.
The use of a non
scrubbing action, dry
type cleaning cassette is not recommended.
After you clean the player, press and hold EJECT for five seconds to reset the CLN indicator. The radio will display
---
to show the indicator was reset.
Cassettes are subject to wear and the sound quality may degrade over time. Always make sure the cassette tape is in good condition before you have your tape player serviced.
Fixed Mast Antenna
The fixed mast antenna can withstand most car washes without being damaged. If the mast should ever become slightly bent, you can straighten it out by hand. If the mast is badly bent, as it might be by vandals, you should replace it.
Check every once in a while to be sure the mast is still tightened to the cowl. If tightening is required, tighten by hand, then with a wrench one quarter turn.
3-14
Section 4 Your Driving and the Road
Here you’ll find information about driving on different kinds of roads and in varying weather conditions. We’ve also included many other useful tips on driving.
Defensive Driving
Drunken Driving
Control of a Vehicle
Braking
Steering
Off
-
Road Recovery
Passing
Loss of Control
Driving at Night
Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
City Driving
Freeway Driving
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Highway Hypnosis
Hill and Mountain Roads
Winter Driving
Recreational Vehicle Towing
Loading Your Vehicle
Towing a Trailer
Power Take
-
Off (PTO)
(Manual Transmission) (If Equipped)
4-
4-1
Defensive Driving
The best advice anyone can give about driving is:
Drive defensively.
Please start with a very important safety device in your vehicle: Buckle up. See “Safety Belts” in the Index.
Defensive driving really means “be ready for anything.”
On city streets, rural roads or freeways, it means
“always expect the unexpected.”
Assume that pedestrians or other drivers are going to be careless and make mistakes. Anticipate what they might do. Be ready for their mistakes.
Rear
end collisions are about the most preventable of accidents. Yet they are common. Allow enough following distance. It’s the best defensive driving maneuver, in both city and rural driving. You never know when the vehicle in front of you is going to brake or turn suddenly.
Defensive driving requires that a driver concentrate on the driving task. Anything that distracts from the driving task
--
such as concentrating on a cellular telephone call, reading, or reaching for something on the floor
--
makes proper defensive driving more difficult and can even cause a collision, with resulting injury. Ask a passenger to help do things like this, or pull off the road in a safe place to do them yourself.
These simple defensive driving techniques could save your life.
4-2
Drunken Driving
Death and injury associated with drinking and driving is a national tragedy. It’s the number one contributor to the highway death toll, claiming thousands of victims every year.
Alcohol affects four things that anyone needs to drive a vehicle:
D Judgment
D Muscular Coordination
D Vision
D Attentiveness.
Police records show that almost half of all motor vehicle
related deaths involve alcohol. In most cases, these deaths are the result of someone who was drinking and driving. In recent years, about 16,000 annual motor vehicle
related deaths have been associated with the use of alcohol, with more than 300,000 people injured.
Many adults
--
by some estimates, nearly half the adult population
--
choose never to drink alcohol, so they never drive after drinking. For persons under 21, it’s against the law in every U.S. state to drink alcohol.
There are good medical, psychological and developmental reasons for these laws.
The obvious way to solve the leading highway safety problem is for people never to drink alcohol and then drive. But what if people do? How much is “too much” if the driver plans to drive? It’s a lot less than many might think. Although it depends on each person and situation, here is some general information on the problem.
The Blood Alcohol Concentration (BAC) of someone who is drinking depends upon four things:
D The amount of alcohol consumed
D The drinker’s body weight
D The amount of food that is consumed before and during drinking
D The length of time it has taken the drinker to consume the alcohol.
According to the American Medical Association, a
180
lb. (82 kg) person who drinks three 12
ounce
(355 ml) bottles of beer in an hour will end up with a
BAC of about 0.06 percent. The person would reach the same BAC by drinking three 4
ounce (120 ml) glasses of wine or three mixed drinks if each had 1
-
1/2 ounces
(45 ml) of a liquor like whiskey, gin or vodka.
4-3
4-4
It’s the amount of alcohol that counts. For example, if the same person drank three double martinis (3 ounces or 90 ml of liquor each) within an hour, the person’s
BAC would be close to 0.12 percent. A person who consumes food just before or during drinking will have a somewhat lower BAC level.
There is a gender difference, too. Women generally have a lower relative percentage of body water than men.
Since alcohol is carried in body water, this means that a woman generally will reach a higher BAC level than a man of her same body weight when each has the same number of drinks.
The law in many U.S. states sets the legal limit at a BAC of 0.10 percent. In a growing number of U.S. states, and throughout Canada, the limit is 0.08 percent. In some other countries, it’s even lower. The BAC limit for all commercial drivers in the United States is 0.04 percent.
The BAC will be over 0.10 percent after three to six drinks (in one hour). Of course, as we’ve seen, it depends on how much alcohol is in the drinks, and how quickly the person drinks them.
But the ability to drive is affected well below a BAC of 0.10 percent. Research shows that the driving skills of many people are impaired at a BAC approaching
0.05 percent, and that the effects are worse at night. All drivers are impaired at BAC levels above 0.05 percent.
Statistics show that the chance of being in a collision increases sharply for drivers who have a BAC of
0.05 percent or above. A driver with a BAC level of
0.06 percent has doubled his or her chance of having a collision. At a BAC level of 0.10 percent, the chance of this driver having a collision is 12 times greater; at a level of 0.15 percent, the chance is 25 times greater!
The body takes about an hour to rid itself of the alcohol in one drink. No amount of coffee or number of cold showers will speed that up. “I’ll be careful” isn’t the right answer. What if there’s an emergency, a need to take sudden action, as when a child darts into the street?
A person with even a moderate BAC might not be able to react quickly enough to avoid the collision.
There’s something else about drinking and driving that many people don’t know. Medical research shows that alcohol in a person’s system can make crash injuries worse, especially injuries to the brain, spinal cord or heart. This means that when anyone who has been drinking
--
driver or passenger
--
is in a crash, that person’s chance of being killed or permanently disabled is higher than if the person had not been drinking.
CAUTION:
Drinking and then driving is very dangerous.
Your reflexes, perceptions, attentiveness and judgment can be affected by even a small amount of alcohol. You can have a serious
--
or even fatal
--
collision if you drive after drinking.
Please don’t drink and drive or ride with a driver who has been drinking. Ride home in a cab; or if you’re with a group, designate a driver who will not drink.
4-5
Control of a Vehicle
You have three systems that make your vehicle go where you want it to go. They are the brakes, the steering and the accelerator. All three systems have to do their work at the places where the tires meet the road.
Braking
Braking action involves perception time and
reaction time.
First, you have to decide to push on the brake pedal.
That’s perception time. Then you have to bring up your foot and do it. That’s reaction time.
Average reaction time is about 3/4 of a second. But that’s only an average. It might be less with one driver and as long as two or three seconds or more with another. Age, physical condition, alertness, coordination and eyesight all play a part. So do alcohol, drugs and frustration. But even in 3/4 of a second, a vehicle moving at 60 mph (100 km/h) travels 66 feet (20 m).
That could be a lot of distance in an emergency, so keeping enough space between your vehicle and others is important.
And, of course, actual stopping distances vary greatly with the surface of the road (whether it’s pavement or gravel); the condition of the road (wet, dry, icy); tire tread; the condition of your brakes; the weight of the vehicle and the amount of brake force applied.
Sometimes, as when you’re driving on snow or ice, it’s easy to ask more of those control systems than the tires and road can provide. That means you can lose control of your vehicle.
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Avoid needless heavy braking. Some people drive in spurts
--
heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking
--
rather than keeping pace with traffic. This is a mistake. Your brakes may not have time to cool between hard stops. Your brakes will wear out much faster if you do a lot of heavy braking. If you keep pace with the traffic and allow realistic following distances, you will eliminate a lot of unnecessary braking. That means better braking and longer brake life.
If your engine ever stops while you’re driving, brake normally but don’t pump your brakes. If you do, the pedal may get harder to push down. If your engine stops, you will still have some power brake assist. But you will use it when you brake. Once the power assist is used up, it may take longer to stop and the brake pedal will be harder to push.
Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
Your vehicle has anti
lock brakes (ABS). ABS is an advanced electronic braking system that will help prevent a braking skid.
When you start your engine and begin to drive away, your anti
lock brake system will check itself. You may hear a momentary motor or clicking noise while this test is going on. This is normal.
If there’s a problem with the anti
lock brake system, this warning light will stay on.
See “Anti
-
Lock Brake
System Warning Light” in the Index.
4-7
The anti
lock system can change the brake pressure faster than any driver could. The computer is programmed to make the most of available tire and road conditions.
This can help you steer around the obstacle while braking hard.
Here’s how anti
lock works. Let’s say the road is wet.
You’re driving safely. Suddenly an animal jumps out in front of you.
You slam on the brakes and continue braking. Here’s what happens with ABS.
A computer senses that wheels are slowing down. If one of the wheels is about to stop rolling, the computer will separately work the brakes at each front wheel and at both rear wheels.
4-8
As you brake, your computer keeps receiving updates on wheel speed and controls braking pressure accordingly.
Remember: Anti
lock doesn’t change the time you need to get your foot up to the brake pedal or always decrease stopping distance. If you get too close to the vehicle in front of you, you won’t have time to apply your brakes if that vehicle suddenly slows or stops. Always leave enough room up ahead to stop, even though you have anti
lock brakes.
Using Anti
-
Lock
Don’t pump the brakes. Just hold the brake pedal down firmly and let anti
lock work for you. You may feel the brakes vibrate, or you may notice some noise, but this is normal.
Braking in Emergencies
With anti
lock, you can steer and brake at the same time. In many emergencies, steering can help you more than even the very best braking.
Steering
Power Steering
If you lose power steering assist because the engine stops or the system is not functioning, you can steer but it will take much more effort.
Steering Tips
Driving on Curves
It’s important to take curves at a reasonable speed.
A lot of the “driver lost control” accidents mentioned on the news happen on curves. Here’s why:
Experienced driver or beginner, each of us is subject to the same laws of physics when driving on curves. The traction of the tires against the road surface makes it possible for the vehicle to change its path when you turn the front wheels. If there’s no traction, inertia will keep the vehicle going in the same direction. If you’ve ever tried to steer a vehicle on wet ice, you’ll understand this.
The traction you can get in a curve depends on the condition of your tires and the road surface, the angle at which the curve is banked, and your speed. While you’re in a curve, speed is the one factor you can control.
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Suppose you’re steering through a sharp curve. Then you suddenly accelerate. Both control systems
--
steering and acceleration
--
have to do their work where the tires meet the road. Adding the sudden acceleration can demand too much of those places. You can lose control.
What should you do if this ever happens? Ease up on the accelerator pedal, steer the vehicle the way you want it to go, and slow down.
Speed limit signs near curves warn that you should adjust your speed. Of course, the posted speeds are based on good weather and road conditions. Under less favorable conditions you’ll want to go slower.
If you need to reduce your speed as you approach a curve, do it before you enter the curve, while your front wheels are straight ahead.
Try to adjust your speed so you can “drive” through the curve. Maintain a reasonable, steady speed. Wait to accelerate until you are out of the curve, and then accelerate gently into the straightaway.
Steering in Emergencies
There are times when steering can be more effective than braking. For example, you come over a hill and find a truck stopped in your lane, or a car suddenly pulls out from nowhere, or a child darts out from between parked cars and stops right in front of you. You can avoid these problems by braking
--
if you can stop in time. But sometimes you can’t; there isn’t room.
That’s the time for evasive action
--
steering around the problem.
Your vehicle can perform very well in emergencies like these. First apply your brakes. See “Braking in
Emergencies” earlier in this section. It is better to remove as much speed as you can from a possible collision. Then steer around the problem, to the left or right depending on the space available.
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Off
-
Road Recovery
You may find that your right wheels have dropped off the edge of a road onto the shoulder while you’re driving.
An emergency like this requires close attention and a quick decision. If you are holding the steering wheel at the recommended 9 and 3 o’clock positions, you can turn it a full 180 degrees very quickly without removing either hand. But you have to act fast, steer quickly, and just as quickly straighten the wheel once you have avoided the object.
The fact that such emergency situations are always possible is a good reason to practice defensive driving at all times and wear safety belts properly.
If the level of the shoulder is only slightly below the pavement, recovery should be fairly easy. Ease off the accelerator and then, if there is nothing in the way, steer so that your vehicle straddles the edge of the pavement.
You can turn the steering wheel up to one
quarter turn until the right front tire contacts the pavement edge.
Then turn your steering wheel to go straight down the roadway.
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Passing
The driver of a vehicle about to pass another on a two
lane highway waits for just the right moment, accelerates, moves around the vehicle ahead, then goes back into the right lane again. A simple maneuver?
Not necessarily! Passing another vehicle on a two
lane highway is a potentially dangerous move, since the passing vehicle occupies the same lane as oncoming traffic for several seconds. A miscalculation, an error in judgment, or a brief surrender to frustration or anger can suddenly put the passing driver face to face with the worst of all traffic accidents
--
the head
on collision.
So here are some tips for passing:
D “Drive ahead.” Look down the road, to the sides and to crossroads for situations that might affect your passing patterns. If you have any doubt whatsoever about making a successful pass, wait for a better time.
D Watch for traffic signs, pavement markings and lines.
If you can see a sign up ahead that might indicate a turn or an intersection, delay your pass. A broken center line usually indicates it’s all right to pass
(providing the road ahead is clear). Never cross a solid line on your side of the lane or a double solid line, even if the road seems empty of approaching traffic.
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D Do not get too close to the vehicle you want to pass while you’re awaiting an opportunity. For one thing, following too closely reduces your area of vision, especially if you’re following a larger vehicle.
Also, you won’t have adequate space if the vehicle ahead suddenly slows or stops. Keep back a reasonable distance.
D When it looks like a chance to pass is coming up, start to accelerate but stay in the right lane and don’t get too close. Time your move so you will be increasing speed as the time comes to move into the other lane. If the way is clear to pass, you will have a “running start” that more than makes up for the distance you would lose by dropping back. And if something happens to cause you to cancel your pass, you need only slow down and drop back again and wait for another opportunity.
D If other cars are lined up to pass a slow vehicle, wait your turn. But take care that someone isn’t trying to pass you as you pull out to pass the slow vehicle.
Remember to glance over your shoulder and check the blind spot.
D Check your mirrors, glance over your shoulder and start your left lane change signal before moving out of the right lane to pass. When you are far enough ahead of the passed vehicle to see its front in your inside mirror, activate your right lane change signal and move back into the right lane. (Remember that if your right outside mirror is convex, the vehicle you just passed may seem to be farther away from you than it really is.)
D Try not to pass more than one vehicle at a time on two
lane roads. Reconsider before passing the next vehicle.
D Don’t overtake a slowly moving vehicle too rapidly.
Even though the brake lamps are not flashing, it may be slowing down or starting to turn.
D If you’re being passed, make it easy for the following driver to get ahead of you. Perhaps you can ease a little to the right.
Loss of Control
Let’s review what driving experts say about what happens when the three control systems (brakes, steering and acceleration) don’t have enough friction where the tires meet the road to do what the driver has asked.
In any emergency, don’t give up. Keep trying to steer and constantly seek an escape route or area of less danger.
Skidding
In a skid, a driver can lose control of the vehicle.
Defensive drivers avoid most skids by taking reasonable care suited to existing conditions, and by not “overdriving” those conditions. But skids are always possible.
The three types of skids correspond to your vehicle’s three control systems. In the braking skid, your wheels aren’t rolling. In the steering or cornering skid, too much speed or steering in a curve causes tires to slip and lose cornering force. And in the acceleration skid, too much throttle causes the driving wheels to spin.
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A cornering skid and an acceleration skid are best handled by easing your foot off the accelerator pedal.
If your vehicle starts to slide, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and quickly steer the way you want the vehicle to go. If you start steering quickly enough, your vehicle may straighten out. Always be ready for a second skid if it occurs.
Of course, traction is reduced when water, snow, ice, gravel or other material is on the road. For safety, you’ll want to slow down and adjust your driving to these conditions. It is important to slow down on slippery surfaces because stopping distance will be longer and vehicle control more limited.
While driving on a surface with reduced traction, try your best to avoid sudden steering, acceleration or braking (including engine braking by shifting to a lower gear). Any sudden changes could cause the tires to slide. You may not realize the surface is slippery until your vehicle is skidding. Learn to recognize warning clues
--
such as enough water, ice or packed snow on the road to make a “mirrored surface”
--
and slow down when you have any doubt.
Remember: Any anti
lock brake system (ABS) helps avoid only the braking skid.
Driving at Night
Night driving is more dangerous than day driving.
One reason is that some drivers are likely to be impaired
--
by alcohol or drugs, with night vision problems, or by fatigue.
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Here are some tips on night driving.
D Drive defensively.
D Don’t drink and drive.
D Adjust your inside rearview mirror to reduce the glare from headlamps behind you.
D Since you can’t see as well, you may need to slow down and keep more space between you and other vehicles.
D Slow down, especially on higher speed roads. Your headlamps can light up only so much road ahead.
D In remote areas, watch for animals.
D If you’re tired, pull off the road in a safe place and rest.
No one can see as well at night as in the daytime. But as we get older these differences increase. A 50
year
old driver may require at least twice as much light to see the same thing at night as a 20
year
old.
What you do in the daytime can also affect your night vision. For example, if you spend the day in bright sunshine you are wise to wear sunglasses. Your eyes will have less trouble adjusting to night. But if you’re driving, don’t wear sunglasses at night. They may cut down on glare from headlamps, but they also make a lot of things invisible.
You can be temporarily blinded by approaching headlamps. It can take a second or two, or even several seconds, for your eyes to readjust to the dark. When you are faced with severe glare (as from a driver who doesn’t lower the high beams, or a vehicle with misaimed headlamps), slow down a little. Avoid staring directly into the approaching headlamps.
Keep your windshield and all the glass on your vehicle clean
--
inside and out. Glare at night is made much worse by dirt on the glass. Even the inside of the glass can build up a film caused by dust. Dirty glass makes lights dazzle and flash more than clean glass would, making the pupils of your eyes contract repeatedly.
Remember that your headlamps light up far less of a roadway when you are in a turn or curve. Keep your eyes moving; that way, it’s easier to pick out dimly lighted objects. Just as your headlamps should be checked regularly for proper aim, so should your eyes be examined regularly. Some drivers suffer from night blindness
--
the inability to see in dim light
--
and aren’t even aware of it.
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Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
Rain and wet roads can mean driving trouble. On a wet road, you can’t stop, accelerate or turn as well because your tire
to
road traction isn’t as good as on dry roads.
And, if your tires don’t have much tread left, you’ll get even less traction. It’s always wise to go slower and be cautious if rain starts to fall while you are driving. The surface may get wet suddenly when your reflexes are tuned for driving on dry pavement.
The heavier the rain, the harder it is to see. Even if your windshield wiper blades are in good shape, a heavy rain can make it harder to see road signs and traffic signals, pavement markings, the edge of the road and even people walking.
It’s wise to keep your wiping equipment in good shape and keep your windshield washer tank filled with washer fluid. Replace your windshield wiper inserts when they show signs of streaking or missing areas on the windshield, or when strips of rubber start to separate from the inserts.
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Driving too fast through large water puddles or even going through some car washes can cause problems, too.
The water may affect your brakes. Try to avoid puddles.
But if you can’t, try to slow down before you hit them.
CAUTION:
Wet brakes can cause accidents. They won’t work as well in a quick stop and may cause pulling to one side. You could lose control of the vehicle.
After driving through a large puddle of water or a car wash, apply your brake pedal lightly until your brakes work normally.
Hydroplaning
Hydroplaning is dangerous. So much water can build up under your tires that they can actually ride on the water.
This can happen if the road is wet enough and you’re going fast enough. When your vehicle is hydroplaning, it has little or no contact with the road.
Hydroplaning doesn’t happen often. But it can if your tires do not have much tread or if the pressure in one or more is low. It can happen if a lot of water is standing on the road. If you can see reflections from trees, telephone poles or other vehicles, and raindrops “dimple” the water’s surface, there could be hydroplaning.
Hydroplaning usually happens at higher speeds.
There just isn’t a hard and fast rule about hydroplaning.
The best advice is to slow down when it is raining.
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Driving Through Deep Standing Water
NOTICE:
If you drive too quickly through deep puddles or standing water, water can come in through your engine’s air intake and badly damage your engine. Never drive through water that is slightly lower than the underbody of your vehicle. If you can’t avoid deep puddles or standing water, drive through them very slowly.
Driving Through Flowing Water
CAUTION:
Flowing or rushing water creates strong forces.
If you try to drive through flowing water, as you might at a low water crossing, your vehicle can be carried away. As little as six inches of flowing water can carry away a smaller vehicle. If this happens, you and the other vehicle occupants could drown. Don’t ignore police warning signs, and otherwise be very cautious about trying to drive through flowing water.
Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
D Besides slowing down, allow some extra following distance. And be especially careful when you pass another vehicle. Allow yourself more clear room ahead, and be prepared to have your view restricted by road spray.
D Have good tires with proper tread depth.
See “Tires” in the Index.
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City Driving
One of the biggest problems with city streets is the amount of traffic on them. You’ll want to watch out for what the other drivers are doing and pay attention to traffic signals.
Here are ways to increase your safety in city driving:
D Know the best way to get to where you are going. Get a city map and plan your trip into an unknown part of the city just as you would for a cross
country trip.
D Try to use the freeways that rim and crisscross most large cities. You’ll save time and energy.
See the next part, “Freeway Driving.”
D Treat a green light as a warning signal. A traffic light is there because the corner is busy enough to need it. When a light turns green, and just before you start to move, check both ways for vehicles that have not cleared the intersection or may be running the red light.
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Freeway Driving
Mile for mile, freeways (also called thruways, parkways, expressways, turnpikes or superhighways) are the safest of all roads. But they have their own special rules.
The most important advice on freeway driving is: Keep up with traffic and keep to the right. Drive at the same speed most of the other drivers are driving. Too
fast or too
slow driving breaks a smooth traffic flow. Treat the left lane on a freeway as a passing lane.
At the entrance, there is usually a ramp that leads to the freeway. If you have a clear view of the freeway as you drive along the entrance ramp, you should begin to check traffic. Try to determine where you expect to blend with the flow. Try to merge into the gap at close to the prevailing speed. Switch on your turn signal, check your mirrors and glance over your shoulder as often as necessary. Try to blend smoothly with the traffic flow.
Once you are on the freeway, adjust your speed to the posted limit or to the prevailing rate if it’s slower. Stay in the right lane unless you want to pass.
Before changing lanes, check your mirrors. Then use your turn signal.
Just before you leave the lane, glance quickly over your shoulder to make sure there isn’t another vehicle in your
“blind” spot.
Once you are moving on the freeway, make certain you allow a reasonable following distance. Expect to move slightly slower at night.
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When you want to leave the freeway, move to the proper lane well in advance. If you miss your exit, do not, under any circumstances, stop and back up. Drive on to the next exit.
The exit ramp can be curved, sometimes quite sharply.
The exit speed is usually posted.
Reduce your speed according to your speedometer, not to your sense of motion. After driving for any distance at higher speeds, you may tend to think you are going slower than you actually are.
Before Leaving on a Long Trip
Make sure you’re ready. Try to be well rested. If you must start when you’re not fresh
--
such as after a day’s work
--
don’t plan to make too many miles that first part of the journey. Wear comfortable clothing and shoes you can easily drive in.
Is your vehicle ready for a long trip? If you keep it serviced and maintained, it’s ready to go. If it needs service, have it done before starting out. Of course, you’ll find experienced and able service experts in
GM dealerships all across North America. They’ll be ready and willing to help if you need it.
Here are some things you can check before a trip:
D Windshield Washer Fluid: Is the reservoir full?
Are all windows clean inside and outside?
D Wiper Blades: Are they in good shape?
D Fuel, Engine Oil, Other Fluids: Have you checked all levels?
D Lamps: Are they all working? Are the lenses clean?
D Tires: They are vitally important to a safe, trouble
free trip. Is the tread good enough for long
distance driving? Are the tires all inflated to the recommended pressure?
D Weather Forecasts: What’s the weather outlook along your route? Should you delay your trip a short time to avoid a major storm system?
D Maps: Do you have up
to
date maps?
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Highway Hypnosis
Is there actually such a condition as “highway hypnosis”?
Or is it just plain falling asleep at the wheel? Call it highway hypnosis, lack of awareness, or whatever.
There is something about an easy stretch of road with the same scenery, along with the hum of the tires on the road, the drone of the engine, and the rush of the wind against the vehicle that can make you sleepy. Don’t let it happen to you! If it does, your vehicle can leave the road in less than a second, and you could crash and be injured.
What can you do about highway hypnosis? First, be aware that it can happen.
Then here are some tips:
D Make sure your vehicle is well ventilated, with a comfortably cool interior.
D Keep your eyes moving. Scan the road ahead and to the sides. Check your mirrors and your instruments frequently.
D If you get sleepy, pull off the road into a rest, service or parking area and take a nap, get some exercise, or both. For safety, treat drowsiness on the highway as an emergency.
Hill and Mountain Roads
Driving on steep hills or mountains is different from driving in flat or rolling terrain.
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If you drive regularly in steep country, or if you’re planning to visit there, here are some tips that can make your trips safer and more enjoyable.
D Keep your vehicle in good shape. Check all fluid levels and also the brakes, tires, cooling system and transmission. These parts can work hard on mountain roads.
D Know how to go down hills. The most important thing to know is this: let your engine do some of the slowing down. Shift to a lower gear when you go down a steep or long hill.
CAUTION:
If you don’t shift down, your brakes could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Shift down to let your engine assist your brakes on a steep downhill slope.
CAUTION:
Coasting downhill in NEUTRAL (N) or with the ignition off is dangerous. Your brakes will have to do all the work of slowing down. They could get so hot that they wouldn’t work well. You would then have poor braking or even none going down a hill. You could crash. Always have your engine running and your vehicle in gear when you go downhill.
D Know how to go uphill. You may want to shift down to a lower gear. The lower gears help cool your engine and transmission, and you can climb the hill better.
D Stay in your own lane when driving on two
lane roads in hills or mountains. Don’t swing wide or cut across the center of the road. Drive at speeds that let you stay in your own lane.
D As you go over the top of a hill, be alert. There could be something in your lane, like a stalled car or an accident.
D You may see highway signs on mountains that warn of special problems. Examples are long grades, passing or no
passing zones, a falling rocks area or winding roads. Be alert to these and take appropriate action.
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Winter Driving
Here are some tips for winter driving:
D Have your vehicle in good shape for winter.
D You may want to put winter emergency supplies in your vehicle.
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Include an ice scraper, a small brush or broom, a supply of windshield washer fluid, a rag, some winter outer clothing, a small shovel, a flashlight, a red cloth and reflective warning triangles. And, if you will be driving under severe conditions, include a small bag of sand, a piece of old carpet or a couple of burlap bags to help provide traction. Be sure you properly secure these items in your vehicle.
Driving on Snow or Ice
Most of the time, those places where your tires meet the road probably have good traction.
However, if there is snow or ice between your tires and the road, you can have a very slippery situation.
You’ll have a lot less traction or “grip” and will need to be very careful.
What’s the worst time for this? “Wet ice.” Very cold snow or ice can be slick and hard to drive on. But wet ice can be even more trouble because it may offer the least traction of all. You can get wet ice when it’s about freezing (32
_F; 0_C) and freezing rain begins to fall.
Try to avoid driving on wet ice until salt and sand crews can get there.
Whatever the condition or loose snow
--
smooth ice, packed, blowing
--
drive with caution.
Accelerate gently. Try not to break the fragile traction.
If you accelerate too fast, the drive wheels will spin and polish the surface under the tires even more.
Your anti
lock brakes improve your vehicle’s stability when you make a hard stop on a slippery road. Even though you have an anti
lock braking system, you’ll want to begin stopping sooner than you would on dry pavement. See “Anti
-
Lock” in the Index.
D Allow greater following distance on any slippery road.
D Watch for slippery spots. The road might be fine until you hit a spot that’s covered with ice. On an otherwise clear road, ice patches may appear in shaded areas where the sun can’t reach: around clumps of trees, behind buildings or under bridges.
Sometimes the surface of a curve or an overpass may remain icy when the surrounding roads are clear. If you see a patch of ice ahead of you, brake before you are on it. Try not to brake while you’re actually on the ice, and avoid sudden steering maneuvers.
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If You’re Caught in a Blizzard
D Tie a red cloth to your vehicle to alert police that you’ve been stopped by the snow.
D Put on extra clothing or wrap a blanket around you.
If you have no blankets or extra clothing, make body insulators from newspapers, burlap bags, rags, floor mats
--
anything you can wrap around yourself or tuck under your clothing to keep warm.
If you are stopped by heavy snow, you could be in a serious situation. You should probably stay with your vehicle unless you know for sure that you are near help and you can hike through the snow. Here are some things to do to summon help and keep yourself and your passengers safe:
D Turn on your hazard flashers.
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You can run the engine to keep warm, but be careful.
CAUTION:
Snow can trap exhaust gases under your vehicle.
This can cause deadly CO (carbon monoxide) gas to get inside. CO could overcome you and kill you. You can’t see it or smell it, so you might not know it is in your vehicle. Clear away snow from around the base of your vehicle, especially any that is blocking your exhaust pipe. And check around again from time to time to be sure snow doesn’t collect there.
Open a window just a little on the side of the vehicle that’s away from the wind. This will help keep CO out.
Run your engine only as long as you must. This saves fuel. When you run the engine, make it go a little faster than just idle. That is, push the accelerator slightly.
This uses less fuel for the heat that you get and it keeps the battery (or batteries) charged. You will need a well
charged battery (or batteries) to restart the vehicle, and possibly for signaling later on with your headlamps.
Let the heater run for a while.
If you have a diesel engine, you may have to run it at a higher speed to get enough heat. Then, shut the engine off and close the window almost all the way to preserve the heat. Start the engine again and repeat this only when you feel really uncomfortable from the cold.
But do it as little as possible. Preserve the fuel as long as you can. To help keep warm, you can get out of the vehicle and do some fairly vigorous exercises every half hour or so until help comes.
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Recreational Vehicle Towing
There may be times when you want to tow your vehicle behind another vehicle for use at your destination.
Be sure to use the proper towing equipment designed for recreational vehicle towing. Follow the instructions for the towing equipment.
Your vehicle should not be towed with all four wheels on the ground. The transmission has no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed. To properly tow the vehicle, it should be placed on a platform trailer with all four wheels off the ground.
In rare cases when it’s unavoidable that the vehicle is to be towed with all four wheels on the ground, the propeller shaft to axle yoke orientation should be marked and the propeller shaft removed following the applicable service manual removal/installation procedure.
Dust or dirt can enter the back of the transmission through the opening created by removing the propeller shaft if proper protection is not provided. Also, check the transmission fluid level before driving the truck.
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Loading Your Vehicle
The Certification/Tire label also tells you the maximum weights for the front and rear axles, called Gross Axle
Weight Rating (GAWR). To find out the actual loads on your front and rear axles, you need to go to a weigh station and weigh your vehicle. Your dealer can help you with this. Be sure to spread out your load equally on both sides of the centerline.
Never exceed the GVWR for your vehicle, or the GAWR for either the front or rear axle.
And, if you do have a heavy load, you should spread it out.
The Certification/Tire label is found on the rear edge of the driver’s door or in the Incomplete Vehicle Document in the cab.
The label shows the size of your original tires and the inflation pressures needed to obtain the gross weight capacity of your vehicle. This is called the GVWR
(Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). The GVWR includes the weight of the vehicle, all occupants, fuel and cargo.
CAUTION:
In the case of a sudden stop or collision, things carried in the bed of your truck could shift forward and come into the passenger area, injuring you and others. If you put things in the bed of your truck, you should make sure they are properly secured.
Using heavier suspension components to get added durability might not change your weight ratings. Ask your dealer to help you load your vehicle the right way.
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CAUTION:
Do not load your vehicle any heavier than the
GVWR, or either the maximum front or rear
GAWR. If you do, parts on your vehicle can break, and it can change the way your vehicle handles. These could cause you to lose control and crash. Also, overloading can shorten the life of your vehicle.
NOTICE:
Your warranty does not cover parts or components that fail because of overloading.
If you put things inside your vehicle
--
like suitcases, tools, packages, or anything else
--
they go as fast as the vehicle goes. If you have to stop or turn quickly, or if there is a crash, they’ll keep going.
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CAUTION:
Things you put inside your vehicle can strike and injure people in a sudden stop or turn, or in a crash.
D Put things in the cargo area of your vehicle.
Try to spread the weight evenly.
D Never stack heavier things, like suitcases,
inside the vehicle so that some of them are above the tops of the seats.
D Don’t leave an unsecured child restraint in
your vehicle.
D When you carry something inside the
vehicle, secure it whenever you can.
D Don’t leave a seat folded down unless
you need to.
Towing a Trailer
CAUTION:
If you don’t use the correct equipment and drive properly, you can lose control when you pull a trailer. For example, if the trailer is too heavy, the brakes may not work well
--
or even at all.
You and your passengers could be seriously injured. Pull a trailer only if you have followed all the steps in this section. Ask your dealer for advice and information about towing a trailer with your vehicle.
NOTICE:
Pulling a trailer improperly can damage your vehicle and result in costly repairs not covered by your warranty. To pull a trailer correctly, follow the advice in this part, and see your dealer for important information about towing a trailer with your vehicle. Additional rear axle maintenance is required for a vehicle used to tow a trailer. See
“Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
To identify what the vehicle trailering capacity is for your vehicle, you should read the information in
“Weight of the Trailer” that appears later in this section.
If yours was built with trailering options, as many are, it’s ready for heavier trailers. But trailering is different than just driving your vehicle by itself. Trailering means changes in handling, durability and fuel economy.
Successful, safe trailering takes correct equipment, and it has to be used properly.
That’s the reason for this part. In it are many time
tested, important trailering tips and safety rules. Many of these are important for your safety and that of your passengers.
So please read this section carefully before you pull a trailer.
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If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
If you do, here are some important points:
D There are many different laws, including speed limit restrictions, having to do with trailering. Make sure your rig will be legal, not only where you live but also where you’ll be driving. A good source for this information can be state or provincial police.
D Don’t tow a trailer at all during the first 500 miles
(800 km) your new vehicle is driven. Your engine, axle or other parts could be damaged.
D Then, during the first 500 miles (800 km) that you tow a trailer, don’t drive over 50 mph (80 km/h) and don’t make starts at full throttle. This helps your engine and other parts of your vehicle wear in at the heavier loads.
D If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (
B). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often (e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions). If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use
FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in FOURTH (4) gear
(or, as you need to, a lower gear).
Three important considerations have to do with weight:
D the weight of the trailer,
D the weight of the trailer tongue
D and the weight on your vehicle’s tires.
Weight of the Trailer
How heavy can a trailer safely be?
It depends on how you plan to use your rig. For example, speed, altitude, road grades, outside temperature and how much your vehicle is used to pull a trailer are all important. And, it can also depend on any special equipment that you have on your vehicle.
Use the following chart to determine how much your vehicle can weigh, based upon your vehicle model and options.
Maximum trailer weight is calculated assuming the driver and one passenger are in the tow vehicle and it has all the required trailering equipment. The weight of additional optional equipment, passengers, cargo in the tow vehicle and the loaded trailer weight must not exceed the Gross Combination Weight Rating (GCWR).
Refer to the Trailering Guide for oil cooler recommendations.
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3500HD
Engine
6.5L Diesel
8.1L
Axle
Ratio
Gross Combination
Weight Rating
4.63
17,000 lbs. (7 718 kg)
5.13
17,000 lbs.* (7 718 kg)
4.63
19,000 lbs.* (8 626 kg)
5.13
19,000 lbs.* (8 626 kg)
*Fifth wheel hitch rating; weight distributing hitch rating is limited to 10,000 lbs. (4 540 kg).
3500HD models are incomplete vehicles and trailer ratings are not assigned. Use the GCWR chart to determine the combination weight limit.
You can ask your dealer for our trailering information or advice, or you can write us at the address listed in your
Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet.
In Canada, write to:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163
-
005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
Weight of the Trailer Tongue
The tongue load (A) of any trailer is an important weight to measure because it affects the total or gross weight of your vehicle. The Gross Vehicle Weight
(GVW) includes the curb weight of the vehicle, any cargo you may carry in it, and the people who will be riding in the vehicle. And if you will tow a trailer, you must add the tongue load to the GVW because your vehicle will be carrying that weight, too. See “Loading
Your Vehicle” in the Index for more information about your vehicle’s maximum load capacity.
4-33
If you’re using a weight
carrying hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 10 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B). If you’re using a weight
distributing hitch, the trailer tongue (A) should weigh 12 percent of the total loaded trailer weight (B).
After you’ve loaded your trailer, weigh the trailer and then the tongue, separately, to see if the weights are proper. If they aren’t, you may be able to get them right simply by moving some items around in the trailer.
Total Weight on Your Vehicle’s Tires
Be sure your vehicle’s tires are inflated to the upper limit for cold tires. You’ll find these numbers on the
Certification label at the rear edge of the driver’s door or see “Tire Loading” in the Index. Then be sure you don’t go over the GVW limit for your vehicle, including the weight of the trailer tongue.
Hitches
It’s important to have the correct hitch equipment.
Crosswinds, large trucks going by and rough roads are a few reasons why you’ll need the right hitch.
Safety Chains
You should always attach chains between your vehicle and your trailer. Cross the safety chains under the tongue of the trailer to help prevent the tongue from contacting the road if it becomes separated from the hitch. Instructions about safety chains may be provided by the hitch manufacturer or by the trailer manufacturer.
Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains and do not attach them to the bumper. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for attaching safety chains. Always leave just enough slack so you can turn with your rig. Never allow safety chains to drag on the ground.
Trailer Brakes
If your trailer weighs more than 1,000 lbs. (450 kg) loaded, then it needs its own brakes
--
and they must be adequate. Be sure to read and follow the instructions for the trailer brakes so you’ll be able to install, adjust and maintain them properly.
4-34
Your trailer brake system can tap into the vehicle’s hydraulic brake system only if:
D The trailer parts can withstand 3,000 psi
(20 650 kPa) of pressure.
D The trailer’s brake system will use less than
0.02 cubic inch (0.3 cc) of fluid from your vehicle’s master cylinder. Otherwise, both braking systems won’t work well. You could even lose your brakes.
If everything checks out this far, make the brake tap at the port on the master cylinder that sends the fluid to the rear brakes. But don’t use copper tubing for this.
If you do, it will bend and finally break off. Use steel brake tubing.
Driving with a Trailer
Towing a trailer requires a certain amount of experience.
Before setting out for the open road, you’ll want to get to know your rig. Acquaint yourself with the feel of handling and braking with the added weight of the trailer. And always keep in mind that the vehicle you are driving is now a good deal longer and not nearly as responsive as your vehicle is by itself.
Before you start, check the trailer hitch and platform
(and attachments), safety chains, electrical connector, lamps, tires and mirror adjustment. If the trailer has electric brakes, start your vehicle and trailer moving and then apply the trailer brake controller by hand to be sure the brakes are working. This lets you check your electrical connection at the same time.
During your trip, check occasionally to be sure that the load is secure, and that the lamps and any trailer brakes are still working.
Following Distance
Stay at least twice as far behind the vehicle ahead as you would when driving your vehicle without a trailer. This can help you avoid situations that require heavy braking and sudden turns.
Passing
You’ll need more passing distance up ahead when you’re towing a trailer. And, because you’re a good deal longer, you’ll need to go much farther beyond the passed vehicle before you can return to your lane.
4-35
Backing Up
Hold the bottom of the steering wheel with one hand.
Then, to move the trailer to the left, just move that hand to the left. To move the trailer to the right, move your hand to the right. Always back up slowly and, if possible, have someone guide you.
Making Turns
NOTICE:
Making very sharp turns while trailering could cause the trailer to come in contact with the vehicle. Your vehicle could be damaged. Avoid making very sharp turns while trailering.
When you’re turning with a trailer, make wider turns than normal. Do this so your trailer won’t strike soft shoulders, curbs, road signs, trees or other objects. Avoid jerky or sudden maneuvers. Signal well in advance.
Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
The arrows on your instrument panel will flash whenever you signal a turn or lane change. Properly hooked up, the trailer lamps will also flash, telling other drivers you’re about to turn, change lanes or stop.
When towing a trailer, the arrows on your instrument panel will flash for turns even if the bulbs on the trailer are burned out. Thus, you may think drivers behind you are seeing your signal when they are not. It’s important to check occasionally to be sure the trailer bulbs are still working.
Driving On Grades
Reduce speed and shift to a lower gear before you start down a long or steep downgrade. If you don’t shift down, you might have to use your brakes so much that they would get hot and no longer work well.
If you have an automatic transmission, you can tow in
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (
B). You may want to shift the transmission to THIRD (3) or, if necessary, a lower gear selection if the transmission shifts too often
(e.g., under heavy loads and/or hilly conditions).
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If you have a manual transmission and you are towing a trailer, it’s better not to use FIFTH (5) gear. Just drive in
FOURTH (4) gear (or, as you need to, a lower gear).
When towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, consider the following: Engine coolant will boil at a lower temperature than at normal altitudes. If you turn your engine off immediately after towing at high altitude on steep uphill grades, your vehicle may show signs similar to engine overheating. To avoid this, let the engine run while parked (preferably on level ground) with the automatic transmission in PARK (P) (or the manual transmission out of gear and the parking brake applied) for a few minutes before turning the engine off.
If you do get the overheat warning, see “Engine
Overheating” in the Index.
Parking on Hills
CAUTION:
You really should not park your vehicle, with a trailer attached, on a hill. If something goes wrong, your rig could start to move. People can be injured, and both your vehicle and the trailer can be damaged.
But if you ever have to park your rig on a hill, here’s how to do it:
1. Apply your regular brakes, but don’t shift into
PARK (P) yet for an automatic transmission, or into gear for a manual transmission.
2. Have someone place chocks under the trailer wheels.
3. When the wheel chocks are in place, release the regular brakes until the chocks absorb the load.
4. Reapply the regular brakes. Then apply your parking brake and shift into PARK (P) for an automatic transmission, or REVERSE (R) for a manual transmission.
5. Release the regular brakes.
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When You Are Ready to Leave After
Parking on a Hill
1. Apply your regular brakes and hold the pedal down while you:
D Start your engine;
D Shift into a gear; and
D Release the parking brake.
2. Let up on the brake pedal.
3. Drive slowly until the trailer is clear of the chocks.
4. Stop and have someone pick up and store the chocks.
Maintenance When Trailer Towing
Your vehicle will need service more often when you’re pulling a trailer. See the Maintenance Schedule for more on this. Things that are especially important in trailer operation are automatic transmission fluid
(don’t overfill), engine oil, axle lubricant, belts, cooling system and brake system. Each of these is covered in this manual, and the Index will help you find them quickly. If you’re trailering, it’s a good idea to review these sections before you start your trip.
Check periodically to see that all hitch nuts and bolts are tight.
Power Winches
If you wish to use a power winch on your vehicle, only use it when your vehicle is stationary or anchored.
NOTICE:
Using a power winch with the transmission in gear may damage the transmission. When operating a power winch, always leave the transmission in NEUTRAL (N).
Use the regular brakes, set the parking brake, or block the wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling.
4-38
Power Take
-
Off (PTO)
(Manual Transmission) (If Equipped)
NOTICE:
If you have a PTO that will exceed 35 hp installed on your vehicle, it could damage the transmission.
When having a PTO installed on your vehicle, make sure that it will not exceed 35 hp.
Before using a PTO, refer to the manufacturer’s or installer’s instructions.
NOTICE:
Using a PTO while operating in one place before the vehicle has reached normal operating temperature can damage the transmission.
If you will be using the PTO while operating in one place, drive and warm up the vehicle before using the PTO.
To engage a PTO on a vehicle with a manual transmission:
1. Hold the clutch pedal down.
2. Set the parking brake.
3. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL (N).
4. Engage the PTO. Refer to the manufacturer’s or installer’s instructions on electrically engaged PTOs.
5. For mobile operations, shift the transmission into the gear you want, apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake. For stationary operations, leave the parking brake applied.
6. Release the clutch and regular brakes as you normally would. When the clutch is released, the PTO will start.
7. Turn the PTO rotary switch to ON.
To engage a PTO on a vehicle with an automatic transmission:
1. Engine speed must be less than 1000 rpm.
2. Turn the PTO rotary switch ON.
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Using PTO speed control in Preset Mode
(Factory Setting):
1. Engage the PTO.
2. Select PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N) range.
Apply the parking brake if NEUTRAL (N) is selected. Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is not available in NEUTRAL (N) and is available only in PARK when speed is above 1100 rpm.
3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal
(and off the clutch on vehicles equipped with a manual transmission). Select the desired engine speed for PTO operation. Please read the following
Preset Mode information regarding operation.
Preset Mode: PTO speed control mode is used for stationary applications. This mode provides a default standby speed of 800 or 850 rpm (depending on the engine/transmission combination) and two default
PTO control speeds which follow:
1. PTO Fast Idle Speed of 1250 rpm, or
2. PTO Fast Idle Resume Speed of 1700 rpm.
Please note that the standby speed (800/850 rpm) is not to be used as a PTO control speed. Vehicles not equipped with cruise control will not have the resume speed capability.
4-40
NOTICE:
Using a PTO for more than four hours without driving your vehicle can damage the transmission.
If using a PTO for more than four hours without driving your vehicle, drive your vehicle for a while to allow the transmission to cool.
If you are going to drive the vehicle, shift the transmission into the gear you want, apply the regular brakes and release the parking brake.
Release the clutch (and the regular brakes) as you normally would. When you release the clutch, the PTO will start.
To engage a PTO while the vehicle is moving:
1. Hold the clutch pedal down.
2. Shift the transmission into NEUTRAL.
3. Engage the PTO.
4. Shift the transmission into the gear you want.
5. Release the clutch as you normally would.
When you release the clutch, the PTO will start.
Using PTO speed control in Variable Mode (Mobile):
1. Engage the PTO.
2. Vehicle speed must be greater than 5 mph for vehicles equipped with gasoline engines or greater than 0 mph for vehicles equipped with diesel engines.
3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal
(and off the clutch for vehicles equipped with a manual transmission).
4. Select the desired engine speed (with the foot pedal) and select SET on the PTO switch or with the cruise control.
Using PTO speed control in Variable
Mode (Stationary):
1. Engage the PTO.
2. Vehicle speed must be less than 5 mph for vehicles equipped with gasoline engines or at 0 mph for vehicles equipped with diesel engines.
3. Make sure your foot is off the brake pedal
(and off the clutch for vehicles equipped with a manual transmission).
4. Select the desired engine speed (with the foot pedal) and select SET on the PTO switch or with the cruise control.
Variable Mode: PTO speed control mode can be used for both stationary and mobile applications. This mode allows PTO to be controlled in a fashion similar to how cruise control sets vehicle speed. The operator can set to an rpm (between 800 and 2200) with the cruise control feature or with the SET position on the PTO switch.
The operator is then able to increase rpm in increments of 100, or “tap”, with the resume position on the cruise control. Or, the operator can decrease rpm in increments of 100 with either of the SET switches on the PTO or the cruise control. Vehicles not equipped with
cruise control will not be able to increase in
100 rpm increments.
All engine speed values listed above are factory preset values. With the exception of the TCC lockup speed
(1100 rpm) and the “tap” increment (100 rpm), all of these values are programmable and can be adjusted by your GM dealer or body upfitter. If the PTO software settings do not match the settings shown here, then they may have already been altered in order to satisfy the requirements of the installed PTO system and body equipment.
4-41
Section 5 Problems on the Road
Here you’ll find what to do about some problems that can occur on the road.
Hazard Warning Flashers
Other Warning Devices
Jump Starting
Towing Your Vehicle
Engine Overheating (Gasoline Engine)
Cooling System (Gasoline Engine)
Engine Fan Noise
If a Tire Goes Flat
Changing a Flat Tire
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
5-
5-1
Hazard Warning Flashers
Press the button located at the top of the steering column all the way down to make your front and rear turn signal lamps flash on and off.
Your hazard warning flashers let you warn others. They also let police know you have a problem. Your front and rear turn signal lamps will flash on and off.
But they won’t flash if you’re braking.
Your hazard warning flashers work no matter what position your key is in, and even if the key isn’t in.
To turn off the flashers, press the button until the first click and release.
When the hazard warning flashers are on, your turn signals won’t work.
Other Warning Devices
If you carry reflective triangles, you can use them to warn others. Set one up at the side of the road about
300 feet (100 m) behind your vehicle.
5-2
Jump Starting
If your battery (or batteries) have run down, you may want to use another vehicle and some jumper cables to start your vehicle. But please use the following steps to do it safely.
CAUTION:
Batteries can hurt you. They can be dangerous because:
D They contain acid that can burn you.
D They contain gas that can explode or ignite.
D They contain enough electricity to
burn you.
If you don’t follow these steps exactly, some or all of these things can hurt you.
NOTICE:
Ignoring these steps could result in costly damage to your vehicle that wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
The ACDelco
R
battery in your vehicle has a built
in hydrometer. Do not charge, test or jump start the battery if the hydrometer looks clear or light yellow. Replace the battery when there is a clear or light yellow hydrometer and a cranking complaint.
Trying to start your vehicle by pushing or pulling it won’t work, and it could damage your vehicle.
5-3
1. Check the other vehicle. It must have a 12
volt battery with a negative ground system.
NOTICE:
If the other system isn’t a 12
volt system with a negative ground, both vehicles can be damaged.
2. Get the vehicles close enough so the jumper cables can reach, but be sure the vehicles aren’t touching each other. If they are, it could cause a ground connection you don’t want. You wouldn’t be able to start your vehicle, and the bad grounding could damage the electrical systems.
3. To avoid the possibility of the vehicles rolling, set the parking brake firmly on both vehicles involved in the jump start procedure. Put an automatic transmission in PARK (P) or a manual transmission in NEUTRAL.
4. Turn off the ignition on both vehicles. Unplug unnecessary accessories plugged into the cigarette lighter or accessory power outlets. Turn off all lamps that aren’t needed as well as radios. This will avoid sparks and help save both batteries. In addition, it could save your radio!
5-4
NOTICE:
If you leave your radio on, it could be badly damaged. The repairs wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
5. Open the hoods and locate the batteries. Find the positive (+) and negative (
-
) terminals on each battery.
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
CAUTION:
Using a match near a battery can cause battery gas to explode. People have been hurt doing this, and some have been blinded. Use a flashlight if you need more light.
Be sure the batteries have enough water. You don’t need to add water to the ACDelco
R
battery
(or batteries) installed in every new GM vehicle.
But if a battery has filler caps, be sure the right amount of fluid is there. If it is low, add water to take care of that first. If you don’t, explosive gas could be present.
Battery fluid contains acid that can burn you.
Don’t get it on you. If you accidentally get it in your eyes or on your skin, flush the place with water and get medical help immediately.
6. Check that the jumper cables don’t have loose or missing insulation. If they do, you could get a shock.
The vehicles could be damaged too.
Before you connect the cables, here are some basic things you should know. Positive (+) will go to positive (+) and negative (
-
) will go to a heavy, unpainted metal engine part. Don’t connect positive (+) to negative (
-
) or you’ll get a short that would damage the battery and maybe other parts too.
On vehicles equipped with dual batteries, make any battery connections to the primary battery located on the passenger’s side of the vehicle.
CAUTION:
Fans or other moving engine parts can injure you badly. Keep your hands away from moving parts once the engine is running.
5-5
7. Connect the red positive (+) cable to the positive (+) terminal of the vehicle with the dead battery.
5-6
8. Don’t let the other end touch metal. Connect it to the positive (+) terminal of the good battery.
9. Now connect the black negative (
-
) cable to the good battery’s negative (
-
) terminal.
Don’t let the other end touch anything until the next step. The other end of the negative (
-
) cable doesn’t go to the dead battery. It goes to a heavy, unpainted metal part of the vehicle with the dead battery.
Attach the cable at least 18 inches (45 cm) away from the dead battery, but not near engine parts that move. The electrical connection is just as good there, but the chance of sparks getting back to the battery is much less.
10. Now start the vehicle with the good battery and run the engine for awhile.
11. Try to start the vehicle with the dead battery.
If it won’t start after a few tries, it probably needs service.
Jumper Cable Removal
A. Heavy, Unpainted Metal Engine Part
B. Good Battery
C. Dead Battery
5-7
To disconnect the jumper cables from both vehicles, do the following:
1. Disconnect the black negative (
-
) cable from the heavy, unpainted metal engine part on the vehicle that had the dead battery.
2. Disconnect the black negative (
-
) cable from the negative (
-
) terminal on the vehicle with the good battery.
3. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the vehicle with the good battery.
4. Disconnect the red positive (+) cable from the other vehicle.
Towing Your Vehicle
Consult your dealer or a professional towing service if you need to have your vehicle towed. See “Roadside
Assistance” and “Recreational Vehicle Towing” in the Index.
Engine Overheating (Gasoline Engine)
You will find a coolant temperature gage on your vehicle’s instrument panel. See “Engine Coolant
Temperature Gage” in the Index.
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine
Overheating” in the Diesel Engine Supplement.
Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode
Should an overheated engine condition exist and the
REDUCED ENGINE POWER light is displayed, an overheat protection mode which alternates firing groups of cylinders helps prevent engine damage. In this mode, you will notice a loss in power and engine performance.
This operating mode allows your vehicle to be driven to a safe place in an emergency. Towing a trailer in the overheat protection mode should be avoided.
NOTICE:
After driving in the overheated engine protection operating mode, to avoid engine damage, allow the engine to cool before attempting any repair.
The engine oil will be severely degraded. Repair the cause of coolant loss and change the oil. See
“Engine Oil” in the Index.
5-8
If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
CAUTION:
Steam from an overheated engine can burn you badly, even if you just open the hood. Stay away from the engine if you see or hear steam coming from it. Just turn it off and get everyone away from the vehicle until it cools down. Wait until there is no sign of steam or coolant before you open the hood.
If you keep driving when your engine is overheated, the liquids in it can catch fire. You or others could be badly burned. Stop your engine if it overheats, and get out of the vehicle until the engine is cool. See “Overheated Engine
Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.
NOTICE:
If your engine catches fire because you keep driving with no coolant, your vehicle can be badly damaged. The costly repairs would not be covered by your warranty. See “Overheated
Engine Protection Operating Mode” in the Index.
5-9
If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
If you get an engine overheat warning but see or hear no steam, the problem may not be too serious. Sometimes the engine can get a little too hot when you:
D Climb a long hill on a hot day.
D Stop after high
speed driving.
D Idle for long periods in traffic.
D Tow a trailer. See “Driving on Grades” in the Index.
If you get the overheat warning with no sign of steam, try this for a minute or so:
1. If you have an air conditioner and it’s on, turn it off.
2. Turn on your heater to full hot at the highest fan speed and open the window as necessary.
3. If you’re in a traffic jam, shift to NEUTRAL (N); otherwise, shift to the highest gear while driving
--
AUTOMATIC OVERDRIVE (
B) for automatic transmissions, FIFTH (5) gear for manual transmissions.
If you no longer have the overheat warning, you can drive. Just to be safe, drive slower for about 10 minutes.
If the warning doesn’t come back on, you can drive normally.
If the warning continues, pull over, stop, and park your vehicle right away.
If there’s still no sign of steam, push down the accelerator until the engine speed is about twice as fast as normal idle speed for at least three minutes while you’re parked. If you still have the warning, turn off the
engine and get everyone out of the vehicle until it cools down. Also, see “Overheated Engine Protection
Operating Mode” listed previously in this section.
You may decide not to lift the hood but to get service help right away.
5-10
Cooling System (Gasoline Engine)
When you decide it’s safe to lift the hood, here’s what you’ll see:
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary electric engine cooling fan under the hood can start up even when the engine is not running and can injure you. Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
If the coolant inside the coolant recovery tank is boiling, don’t do anything else until it cools down.
A. Coolant Recovery Tank
B. Radiator Pressure Cap
C. Engine Cooling Fan(s)
5-11
When the engine is cold, the coolant level should be at or above the COLD mark.
CAUTION:
Heater and radiator hoses, and other engine parts, can be very hot. Don’t touch them. If you do, you can be burned.
Don’t run the engine if there is a leak. If you run the engine, it could lose all coolant. That could cause an engine fire, and you could be burned.
Get any leak fixed before you drive the vehicle.
If it isn’t, you may have a leak in the radiator hoses, heater hoses, radiator, water pump or somewhere else in the cooling system.
NOTICE:
Engine damage from running your engine without coolant isn’t covered by your warranty.
See “Overheated Engine Protection Operating
Mode” in the Index.
5-12
NOTICE:
When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX
-
COOL
R
(silicate
free) coolant.
If coolant other than DEX
-
COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner
--
at
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX
-
COOL
R
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
If there seems to be no leak, start the engine again.
See if the engine cooling fan speed increases when idle speed is doubled by pushing the accelerator pedal down. If it doesn’t, your vehicle needs service. Turn off the engine.
How to Add Coolant to the Coolant
Recovery Tank (Gasoline Engines)
If you haven’t found a problem yet, but the coolant level isn’t at or above the COLD mark, add a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX
-
COOL
R
engine coolant at the coolant recovery tank. See “Engine
Coolant” in the Index for more information.
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned.
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX
-
COOL
R
coolant.
5-13
NOTICE:
In cold weather, water can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Use the recommended coolant and the proper coolant mixture.
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
When the coolant in the coolant recovery tank is at or above the COLD mark, start your vehicle.
If the overheat warning continues, there’s one more thing you can try. You can add the proper coolant mixture directly to the radiator, but be sure the cooling system is cool before you do it.
5-14
CAUTION:
Steam and scalding liquids from a hot cooling system can blow out and burn you badly. They are under pressure, and if you turn the radiator pressure cap
--
even a little
--
they can come out at high speed. Never turn the cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap, is hot. Wait for the cooling system and radiator pressure cap to cool if you ever have to turn the pressure cap.
5-15
How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
1. You can remove the radiator pressure cap when the cooling system, including the radiator pressure cap and upper radiator hose, is no longer hot. Turn the pressure cap slowly counterclockwise until it first stops. (Don’t press down while turning the pressure cap.)
If you hear a hiss, wait for that to stop. A hiss means there is still some pressure left.
2. Then keep turning the pressure cap, but now push down as you turn it. Remove the pressure cap.
5-16
3. Fill the radiator with the proper DEX
-
COOL
R coolant mixture, up to the base of the filler neck. See
“Engine Coolant” in the Index for more information about the proper coolant mixture.
4. Then fill the coolant recovery tank to the
COLD mark.
5. Put the cap back on the coolant recovery tank, but leave the radiator pressure cap off.
5-17
6. Start the engine and let it run until you can feel the upper radiator hose getting hot. Watch out for the engine cooling fan(s).
7. By this time, the coolant level inside the radiator filler neck may be lower. If the level is lower, add more of the proper DEX
-
COOL
R
coolant mixture through the filler neck until the level reaches the base of the filler neck.
8. Then replace the pressure cap. At any time during this procedure if coolant begins to flow out of the filler neck, reinstall the pressure cap. Be sure the arrows on the pressure cap line up like this.
5-18
Engine Fan Noise
Your vehicle has a clutched engine cooling fan. When the clutch is engaged, the fan spins faster to provide more air to cool the engine. In most everyday driving conditions, the fan is spinning slower and the clutch is not fully engaged. This improves fuel economy and reduces fan noise. Under heavy vehicle loading, trailer towing and/or high outside temperatures, the fan speed increases as the clutch more fully engages. So you may hear an increase in fan noise. This is normal and should not be mistaken as the transmission slipping or making extra shifts. It is merely the cooling system functioning properly. The fan will slow down when additional cooling is not required and the clutch disengages.
You may also hear this fan noise when you start the engine. It will go away as the fan clutch partially disengages.
If a Tire Goes Flat
It’s unusual for a tire to “blow out” while you’re driving, especially if you maintain your tires properly. If air goes out of a tire, it’s much more likely to leak out slowly.
But if you should ever have a “blowout,” here are a few tips about what to expect and what to do:
If a front tire fails, the flat tire will create a drag that pulls the vehicle toward that side. Take your foot off the accelerator pedal and grip the steering wheel firmly.
Steer to maintain lane position, and then gently brake to a stop well out of the traffic lane.
A rear blowout, particularly on a curve, acts much like a skid and may require the same correction you’d use in a skid. In any rear blowout, remove your foot from the accelerator pedal. Get the vehicle under control by steering the way you want the vehicle to go. It may be very bumpy and noisy, but you can still steer. Gently brake to a stop
--
well off the road if possible.
If a tire goes flat, avoid further tire and wheel damage by driving slowly to a level place and turn on your hazard warning flashers. The next part tells you what to do.
5-19
Changing a Flat Tire
Your truck, when new, included no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire in the vehicle.
Few drivers of these vehicles have the necessary equipment aboard to be able to change a flat tire safely.
For example, you would need a truck jack that can lift several thousand pounds and a torque wrench that can generate several hundred foot
pounds (Newton
meters) of twisting force.
CAUTION:
If you try to put air back into a tire that has run flat, or even a tire that was quite low on air, the tire can have a sudden air
out. This could cause you to lose control of the vehicle and have a serious crash. Don’t refill a flat or very low tire with air without first having the tire taken off the wheel and checked for damage.
So if you’re stopped somewhere by a flat or damaged tire or wheel, you should get expert help. See “Roadside
Assistance” in the Index.
CAUTION:
Your vehicle, when new, included no tire changing equipment and no place to store a tire in the vehicle. Special tools and procedures are required if a tire needs to be serviced. If these tools and procedures aren’t used, you or others could be injured or killed while trying to change or service a truck tire.
5-20
If You’re Stuck: In Sand, Mud,
Ice or Snow
In order to free your vehicle when it is stuck, you will need to spin the wheels, but you don’t want to spin your wheels too fast. The method known as “rocking” can help you get out when you’re stuck, but you must use caution.
CAUTION:
If you let your tires spin at high speed, they can explode, and you or others could be injured. And, the transmission or other parts of the vehicle can overheat. That could cause an engine compartment fire or other damage. When you’re stuck, spin the wheels as little as possible. Don’t spin the wheels above 35 mph (55 km/h) as shown on the speedometer.
NOTICE:
Spinning your wheels can destroy parts of your vehicle as well as the tires. If you spin the wheels too fast while shifting your transmission back and forth, you can destroy your transmission.
For information about using tire chains on your vehicle, see “Tire Chains” in the Index.
Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
First, turn your steering wheel left and right. That will clear the area around your front wheels. Then shift back and forth between REVERSE (R) and a forward gear
(or with a manual transmission, between FIRST (1) or
SECOND (2) and REVERSE (R)), spinning the wheels as little as possible. Release the accelerator pedal while you shift, and press lightly on the accelerator pedal when the transmission is in gear. By slowly spinning your wheels in the forward and reverse directions, you will cause a rocking motion that may free your vehicle.
If that doesn’t get you out after a few tries, you may need to be towed out. If you do need to be towed out, see “Towing Your Vehicle” in the Index.
5-21
Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
Here you will find information about the care of your vehicle. This section begins with service and fuel information, and then it shows how to check important fluid and lubricant levels. There is also technical information about your vehicle, and a part devoted to its appearance care.
Service
Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines)
Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
Checking Things Under the Hood
Noise Control System
Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines)
Automatic Transmission Fluid
Manual Transmission Fluid
Hydraulic Clutch
Rear Axle
Engine Coolant
Radiator Pressure Cap (Gasoline Engine)
Power Steering Fluid
Windshield Washer Fluid
Brakes
Battery
Bulb Replacement
Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Tires
Appearance Care
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
Electrical System
Replacement Bulbs
Capacities and Specifications
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
6-
6-1
Service
Your dealer knows your vehicle best and wants you to be happy with it. We hope you’ll go to your dealer for all your service needs. You’ll get genuine GM parts and
GM
trained and supported service people.
We hope you’ll want to keep your GM vehicle all GM.
Genuine GM parts have one of these marks:
Doing Your Own Service Work
If you want to do some of your own service work, you’ll want to use the proper service manual. It tells you much more about how to service your vehicle than this manual can. To order the proper service manual, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.
You should keep a record with all parts receipts and list the mileage and the date of any service work you perform. See “Maintenance Record” in the Index.
CAUTION:
You can be injured and your vehicle could be damaged if you try to do service work on a vehicle without knowing enough about it.
D Be sure you have sufficient knowledge,
experience, the proper replacement parts and tools before you attempt any vehicle maintenance task.
D Be sure to use the proper nuts, bolts and
other fasteners. “English” and “metric” fasteners can be easily confused. If you use the wrong fasteners, parts can later break or fall off. You could be hurt.
6-2
Adding Equipment to the Outside of
Your Vehicle
Things you might add to the outside of your vehicle can affect the airflow around it. This may cause wind noise and affect windshield washer performance. Check with your dealer before adding equipment to the outside of your vehicle.
Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Diesel Fuel
Requirements and Fuel System” in the Diesel Engine
Supplement. For vehicles with gasoline engines, please read this.
Use regular unleaded gasoline rated at 87 octane or higher. It is recommended that the gasoline meet specifications which were developed by the American
Automobile Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and endorsed by the Canadian Motor Vehicle Manufacturers
Association for better vehicle performance and engine protection. Gasolines meeting the AAMA specification could provide improved driveability and emission control system performance compared to other gasolines.
In Canada, look for the
“Auto Makers’ Choice” label on the fuel pump.
Canada Only
Be sure the posted octane is at least 87. If the octane is less than 87, you may get a heavy knocking noise when you drive. If it’s bad enough, it can damage your engine.
If you’re using fuel rated at 87 octane or higher and you hear heavy knocking, your engine needs service.
But don’t worry if you hear a little pinging noise when you’re accelerating or driving up a hill. That’s normal, and you don’t have to buy a higher octane fuel to get rid of pinging. It’s the heavy, constant knock that means you have a problem.
6-3
If your vehicle is certified to meet California Emission
Standards (indicated on the underhood emission control label), it is designed to operate on fuels that meet
California specifications. If such fuels are not available in states adopting California emissions standards, your vehicle will operate satisfactorily on fuels meeting federal specifications, but emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on and/or your vehicle may fail a smog
check test. See “Malfunction
Indicator Lamp” in the Index. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for diagnosis to determine the cause of failure. In the event it is determined that the cause of the condition is the type of fuels used, repairs may not be covered by your warranty.
Some gasolines that are not reformulated for low emissions may contain an octane
enhancing additive called methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl
(MMT); ask your service station operator whether or not the fuel contains MMT. General Motors does not recommend the use of such gasolines.
If fuels containing MMT are used, spark plug life may be reduced and your emission control system performance may be affected. The malfunction indicator lamp on your instrument panel may turn on. If this occurs, return to your authorized GM dealer for service.
To provide cleaner air, all gasolines in the United States are now required to contain additives that will help prevent deposits from forming in your engine and fuel system, allowing your emission control system to function properly. Therefore, you should not have to add anything to the fuel. In addition, gasolines containing oxygenates, such as ethers and ethanol, and reformulated gasolines may be available in your area to contribute to clean air. General Motors recommends that you use these gasolines, particularly if they comply with the specifications described earlier.
6-4
Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
NOTICE:
Your vehicle was not designed for fuel that contains methanol. Don’t use it. It can corrode metal parts in your fuel system and also damage plastic and rubber parts. That damage wouldn’t be covered under your warranty.
CAUTION:
Gasoline vapor is highly flammable. It burns violently, and that can cause very bad injuries.
Don’t smoke if you’re near gasoline or refueling your vehicle. Keep sparks, flames and smoking materials away from gasoline.
Fuels in Foreign Countries
(Gasoline Engines)
If you plan on driving in another country outside the
United States or Canada, the proper fuel may be hard to find. Never use leaded gasoline or any other fuel not recommended in the previous text on fuel. Costly repairs caused by use of improper fuel wouldn’t be covered by your warranty.
To check on fuel availability, ask an auto club, or contact a major oil company that does business in the country where you’ll be driving.
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Filling Your
Tank (Diesel Engine)” in the Diesel Engine supplement.
The fuel cap is located on the driver’s side of your vehicle. On vehicles with dual tanks, refuel the front tank first, or in instances when only a partial fuel fill is desired. An automatic transfer mechanism will maintain approximately equal fuel levels in both tanks, so no switching is required by the operator.
6-5
To remove the cap, turn it slowly to the left (counterclockwise).
CAUTION:
If you get gasoline on yourself and then something ignites it, you could be badly burned.
Gasoline can spray out on you if you open the fuel filler cap too quickly. This spray can happen if your tank is nearly full, and is more likely in hot weather. Open the fuel filler cap slowly and wait for any “hiss” noise to stop. Then unscrew the cap all the way.
Be careful not to spill gasoline. Clean gasoline from painted surfaces as soon as possible. See “Cleaning the
Outside of Your Vehicle” in the Index.
When you put the cap back on, turn it to the right
(clockwise) until you hear a clicking sound. Make sure you fully install the cap. The diagnostic system can determine if the fuel cap has been left off or improperly installed. This would allow fuel to evaporate into the atmosphere. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
NOTICE:
If you need a new cap, be sure to get the right type. Your dealer can get one for you. If you get the wrong type, it may not fit properly. This may cause your malfunction indicator lamp to light and your fuel tank and emissions system may be damaged. See “Malfunction Indicator Lamp” in the Index.
6-6
Filling a Portable Fuel Container
CAUTION:
Never fill a portable fuel container while it is in your vehicle. Static electricity discharge from the container can ignite the gasoline vapor. You can be badly burned and your vehicle damaged if this occurs. To help avoid injury to you and others:
D Dispense gasoline only into
approved containers.
D Do not fill a container while it is inside a
vehicle, in a vehicle’s trunk, pickup bed or on any surface other than the ground.
D Bring the fill nozzle in contact with the
inside of the fill opening before operating the nozzle. Contact should be maintained until the filling is complete.
D Don’t smoke while pumping gasoline.
Checking Things Under the Hood
CAUTION:
If your vehicle has air conditioning, the auxiliary engine fan under the hood can start up and injure you even when the engine is not running.
Keep hands, clothing and tools away from any underhood electric fan.
CAUTION:
Things that burn can get on hot engine parts and start a fire. These include liquids like fuel, oil, coolant, brake fluid, windshield washer and other fluids, and plastic or rubber. You or others could be burned. Be careful not to drop or spill things that will burn onto a hot engine.
6-7
Hood Release
To open the hood, first pull the handle located near the lower left side of the instrument panel.
Then go to the front of the vehicle and pull up on the secondary hood release, located just to the passenger’s side of the center of the grill.
Lift the hood.
Before closing the hood, be sure all filler caps are on properly. Pull down the hood and close it firmly.
6-8
Engine Compartment Overview
When you open the hood, this is what you will see:
A. Battery
B. Air Filter Restriction Indicator
C. Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
D. Coolant Recovery Tank
E. Radiator Pressure Cap
F. Engine Oil Dipstick
G. Automatic Transmission Dipstick
(If Equipped)
H. Engine Oil Fill
I. Engine Cooling Fan
J. Power Steering Fluid Reservoir
K. Brake Fluid Reservoir
L. Hydraulic Clutch Fluid Reservoir
M. Windshield Washer Fluid Reservoir
N. Underhood Fuse/Relay Center
6-9
Noise Control System
The following information relates to compliance with federal noise emission standards for vehicles with a Gross
Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of more than 10,000 lbs.
(4 536 kg). The Maintenance Schedule provides information on maintaining the noise control system to minimize degradation of the noise emission control system during the life of your vehicle. The noise control system warranty is given in your warranty booklet.
These standards apply only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
Tampering With Noise Control
System Prohibited
Federal law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof:
1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person, other than for purposes of maintenance, repair or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new vehicle for the purpose of noise control, prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use; or
2. The use of the vehicle after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.
6-10
Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below.
Insulation:
D Removal of the noise shields or any underhood insulation.
Engine:
D Removal or rendering engine speed governor
(if equipped) inoperative so as to allow engine speed to exceed manufacturer specifications.
Fan and Drive:
D Removal of fan clutch (if equipped) or rendering clutch inoperative.
D Removal of the fan shroud (if equipped).
Air Intake:
D Removal of the air cleaner silencer.
D Reversing the air cleaner cover.
Exhaust:
D Removal of the muffler and/or resonator.
D Removal of the exhaust pipes and exhaust pipe clamps.
Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Engine Oil
(Diesel Engine)” in the Diesel Engine Supplement.
Checking Engine Oil
It’s a good idea to check your engine oil every time you get fuel. In order to get an accurate reading, the oil must be warm and the vehicle must be on level ground.
The engine oil dipstick has a yellow ring handle and is located on the passenger’s side of the engine. See “Engine
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
Turn off the engine and give the oil several minutes to drain back into the oil pan. If you don’t, the oil dipstick might not show the actual level.
Pull out the dipstick and clean it with a paper towel or cloth, then push it back in all the way. Remove it again, keeping the tip down, and check the level.
When to Add Engine Oil
If the oil is at or below the ADD mark, then you’ll need to add at least one quart of oil. But you must use the right kind. This part explains what kind of oil to use. For crankcase capacity, see “Capacities and Specifications” in the Index.
6-11
NOTICE:
Don’t add too much oil. If your engine has so much oil that the oil level gets above the upper mark that shows the proper operating range, your engine could be damaged.
The engine oil fill cap is located at the front of the engine. See “Engine
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
Be sure to fill it enough to put the level somewhere in the proper operating range. Push the dipstick all the way back in when you’re through.
What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
Oils recommended for your vehicle can be identified by looking for the starburst symbol.
This symbol indicates that the oil has been certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Do not use any oil which does not carry this starburst symbol.
If you change your own oil, be sure you use oil that has the starburst symbol on the front of the oil container.
If you have your oil changed for you, be sure the oil put into your engine is American Petroleum
Institute certified for gasoline engines.
You should also use the proper viscosity oil for your vehicle, as shown in the following chart:
6-12
As in the chart shown previously, SAE 5W
-
30 is best for your vehicle. However, you can use SAE 10W going to be 0
_F (
-
30 if it’s
-
18
_C) or above. These numbers on an oil container show its viscosity, or thickness. Do not use other viscosity oils, such as SAE 20W
-
50.
NOTICE:
Use only engine oil with the American Petroleum
Institute Certified For Gasoline Engines starburst symbol. Failure to use the recommended oil can result in engine damage not covered by your warranty.
GM Goodwrench
R
oil meets all the requirements for your vehicle.
If you are in an area where the temperature falls below
-
20
_F (
-
29
_C), consider using either an SAE 5W
-
30 synthetic oil or an SAE 0W
-
30 oil. Both will provide easier cold starting and better protection for your engine at extremely low temperatures.
6-13
Engine Oil Additives
Don’t add anything to your oil. The recommended oils with the starburst symbol are all you will need for good performance and engine protection.
When to Change Engine Oil
If any one of these is true for you, use the short trip/city maintenance schedule:
D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop
and
go traffic).
D You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off
road frequently.
D You frequently tow a trailer.
D The vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.
Driving under these conditions causes engine oil to break down sooner. If any one of these is true for your vehicle, then you need to change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles (5 000 km) or 3 months
--
whichever occurs first.
6-14
If none of them is true, use the long trip/highway maintenance schedule. Change the oil and filter every
7,500 miles (12 500 km) or 12 months
--
whichever occurs first. Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.
What to Do with Used Oil
Did you know that used engine oil contains certain elements that may be unhealthy for your skin and could even cause cancer? Don’t let used oil stay on your skin for very long. Clean your skin and nails with soap and water, or a good hand cleaner. Wash or properly throw away clothing or rags containing used engine oil.
See the manufacturer’s warnings about the use and disposal of oil products.
Used oil can be a real threat to the environment. If you change your own oil, be sure to drain all free
flowing oil from the filter before disposal. Don’t ever dispose of oil by putting it in the trash, pouring it on the ground, into sewers, or into streams or bodies of water. Instead, recycle it by taking it to a place that collects used oil.
If you have a problem properly disposing of your used oil, ask your dealer, a service station or a local recycling center for help.
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter
(Gasoline Engines)
Your engine air cleaner/filter is located between the battery and coolant recovery tank.
See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
The engine air cleaner/filter assembly has an indicator that lets you know when the engine air cleaner/filter is dirty and needs to be serviced. The indicator is located in the air intake tube between the engine air cleaner/filter and the engine.
See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index to determine when to check the indicator.
If the area inside the clear section of the indicator is green, no engine air cleaner/filter service is required.
When the area inside the indicator is orange and
CHANGE AIR FILTER appears, the filter should be replaced.
6-15
5. Install the duct and the filter into the engine air cleaner/filter housing. Make sure that the duct fits properly into the housing.
To remove the engine air cleaner/filter:
1. Unhook the retaining clips and remove the cover.
2. Lift the filter and the connected duct out of the air cleaner/filter housing. Hold the duct and remove the filter by both pulling and twisting the filter away from the duct. Care should be taken to dislodge as little dirt as possible.
3. Clean the filter sealing surface of the duct and the filter housing.
4. Install the new filter by pushing it all the way to the stop on the duct.
6-16
6. Install the cover and fasten the two retaining clips.
7. After the engine air cleaner/filter is properly serviced, the indicator should be reset. Push the button on top of the indicator to reset it to the green (clean) filter zone.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to replace the engine air cleaner/filter. See “Owner Checks and Services” in the Index.
CAUTION:
Operating the engine with the air cleaner/filter off can cause you or others to be burned. The air cleaner not only cleans the air, it stops flame if the engine backfires. If it isn’t there, and the engine backfires, you could be burned. Don’t drive with it off, and be careful working on the engine with the air cleaner/filter off.
NOTICE:
If the air cleaner/filter is off, a backfire can cause a damaging engine fire. And, dirt can easily get into your engine, which will damage it.
Always have the air cleaner/filter in place when you’re driving.
Automatic Transmission Fluid
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Automatic
Transmission Fluid” in the Diesel Supplement.
When to Check and Change
A good time to check your automatic transmission fluid level is when the engine oil is changed.
Change both the fluid and filter every
50,000 miles (83 000 km).
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at the dealership service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading on the dipstick.
6-17
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire.
Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
Wait at least 30 minutes before checking the transmission fluid level if you have been driving:
D When outside temperatures are above 90_F (32_C).
D At high speed for quite a while.
D In heavy traffic
--
especially in hot weather.
D While pulling a trailer.
To get the right reading, the fluid should be at normal operating temperature, which is 180
_F to 200_F
(82
_C to 93_C).
Get the vehicle warmed up by driving about 15 miles
(24 km) when outside temperatures are above 50
_F
(10
_C). If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), drive the vehicle in THIRD (3) until the engine temperature gage moves and then remains steady for 10 minutes.
6-18
A cold fluid check can be made after the vehicle has been sitting for eight hours or more with the engine off, but this is used only as a reference. Let the engine run at idle for five minutes if outside temperatures are 50
_F
(10
_C) or more. If it’s colder than 50_F (10_C), you may have to idle the engine longer. Should the fluid level be low during this cold check, you must check the fluid hot before adding fluid. Checking the fluid hot will give you a more accurate reading of the fluid level.
Checking the Fluid Level
Prepare your vehicle as follows:
D Park your vehicle on a level place. Keep the engine running.
D With the parking brake applied, place the shift lever in PARK (P).
D With your foot on the brake pedal, move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about three seconds in each range. Then, position the shift lever in PARK (P).
D Let the engine run at idle for three minutes or more.
Then, without shutting off the engine, follow these steps: 2. Push it back in all the way, wait three seconds and then pull it back out again.
1. The red transmission dipstick handle is located at the rear of the engine compartment, on the passenger’s side. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the
Index for more information on location. Flip the handle up and then pull out the dipstick and wipe it with a clean rag or paper towel.
3. Check both sides of the dipstick, and read the lower level. The fluid level must be in the COLD area, below the cross
hatched area, for a cold check or in the HOT area or cross
hatched area for a hot check.
4. If the fluid level is in the acceptable range, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
6-19
How to Add Fluid
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of transmission fluid to use. See “Recommended
Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Add fluid only after checking the transmission fluid while it is hot. (A cold check is used only as a reference.) If the fluid level is low, add only enough of the proper fluid to bring the level up to the HOT area for a hot check. It doesn’t take much fluid, generally less than one pint (0.5 L). Don’t overfill.
NOTICE:
We recommend you use only fluid labeled
DEXRON
R
-
III, because fluid with that label is made especially for your automatic transmission.
Damage caused by fluid other than DEXRON
R
-
III is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
D After adding fluid, recheck the fluid level as described under “How to Check.”
D When the correct fluid level is obtained, push the dipstick back in all the way; then flip the handle down to lock the dipstick in place.
6-20
Manual Transmission Fluid
When to Check
A good time to have it checked is when the engine oil is changed. However, the fluid in your manual transmission doesn’t require changing.
How to Check
Because this operation can be a little difficult, you may choose to have this done at your GM dealership service department.
If you do it yourself, be sure to follow all the instructions here, or you could get a false reading.
NOTICE:
Too much or too little fluid can damage your transmission. Too much can mean that some of the fluid could come out and fall on hot engine parts or exhaust system parts, starting a fire.
Be sure to get an accurate reading if you check your transmission fluid.
Check the fluid level only when your engine is off, the vehicle is parked on a level place and the transmission is cool enough for you to rest your fingers on the transmission case.
Then, follow these steps:
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Check that the lubricant level is up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. If the fluid level is good, install the plug and be sure it is fully seated. If the fluid level is low, add more fluid as described in the next steps.
How to Add Fluid
Here’s how to add fluid. Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule to determine what kind of fluid to use. See
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
1. Remove the filler plug.
2. Add fluid at the filler plug hole. Add only enough fluid to bring the fluid level up to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
3. Install the filler plug. Be sure the plug is fully seated.
Hydraulic Clutch
The hydraulic clutch linkage in your vehicle is self
adjusting. The clutch master cylinder reservoir is filled with hydraulic clutch fluid.
It is not necessary to regularly check clutch fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system. Adding fluid won’t correct a leak.
A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem.
Have the system inspected and repaired.
6-21
When to Check and What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance
Schedule to determine how often you should check the fluid level in your clutch master cylinder reservoir and for the proper fluid.
See “Owner Checks and Services” and
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
How to Check and Add Fluid
The proper fluid should be added if the level does not reach the bottom of the diaphragm when it’s in place in the reservoir. See the instructions on the reservoir cap.
Also, see “Engine Compartment Overview” in the
Index for more information on location.
Rear Axle
When to Check and Change Lubricant
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine how often to check the lubricant and when to change it.
See “Scheduled Maintenance Services” in the Index.
Additional rear axle scheduled maintenance is required when the vehicle is driven under the following conditions:
D Extreme loading (at or near GVWR) or trailer towing, and
D operation above 45 mph (70 km/h) for extended periods of time.
Vehicles used in any of these conditions require the rear axle lubricant be changed every 30,000 miles
(50 000 km). Fluid capacity is 4.12 quarts (3.9 L).
6-22
How to Check Lubricant
If the level is below the bottom of the filler plug hole, you’ll need to add some lubricant. Add enough lubricant to raise the level to the bottom of the filler plug hole.
What to Use
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine what kind of lubricant to use. See “Recommended Fluids and
Lubricants” in the Index.
Engine Coolant
The cooling system in your vehicle is filled with
DEX
-
COOL
R
engine coolant. This coolant is designed to remain in your vehicle for 5 years or 150,000 miles
(240 000 km), whichever occurs first, if you add only
DEX
-
COOL
R
extended life coolant.
The following explains your cooling system and how to add coolant when it is low. If you have a problem with engine overheating, see “Engine Overheating” in the Index.
6-23
A 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and
DEX
-
COOL
R
coolant will:
D Give freezing protection down to
-
34
_F (
-
37
_C).
D Give boiling protection up to 265_F (129_C).
D Protect against rust and corrosion.
D Help keep the proper engine temperature.
D Let the warning gages work as they should.
NOTICE:
When adding coolant, it is important that you use only DEX
-
COOL
R
(silicate
free) coolant.
If coolant other than DEX
-
COOL is added to the system, premature engine, heater core or radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the engine coolant will require change sooner
--
at
30,000 miles (50 000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Damage caused by the use of coolant other than DEX
-
COOL
R
is not covered by your new vehicle warranty.
What to Use
Use a mixture of one
half clean, drinkable water and one
half DEX
-
COOL
R
coolant which won’t damage aluminum parts. If you use this coolant mixture, you don’t need to add anything else.
CAUTION:
Adding only plain water to your cooling system can be dangerous. Plain water, or some other liquid like alcohol, can boil before the proper coolant mixture will. Your vehicle’s coolant warning system is set for the proper coolant mixture. With plain water or the wrong mixture, your engine could get too hot but you wouldn’t get the overheat warning. Your engine could catch fire and you or others could be burned.
Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and DEX
-
COOL
R
coolant.
6-24
NOTICE:
If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged.
The repair cost wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
If you have to add coolant more than four times a year, have your dealer check your cooling system.
NOTICE:
If you use the proper coolant, you don’t have to add extra inhibitors or additives which claim to improve the system. These can be harmful.
Checking Coolant
If your vehicle has a diesel engine, see “Checking
Coolant” in the Diesel Engine Supplement.
The coolant recovery tank is located on the passenger’s side at the rear corner of the engine compartment.
See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
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The vehicle must be on a level surface. When your engine is cold, the coolant level should be at the COLD mark, or a little higher. When your engine is warm, the level should be up to the HOT mark, or a little higher.
Adding Coolant
If you need more coolant, add the proper DEX
-
COOL
R coolant mixture at the coolant recovery tank.
CAUTION:
Turning the radiator pressure cap when the engine and radiator are hot can allow steam and scalding liquids to blow out and burn you badly. With the coolant recovery tank, you will almost never have to add coolant at the radiator.
Never turn the radiator pressure cap
--
even a little
--
when the engine and radiator are hot.
Add coolant mixture at the recovery tank, but be careful not to spill it.
CAUTION:
You can be burned if you spill coolant on hot engine parts. Coolant contains ethylene glycol, and it will burn if the engine parts are hot enough. Don’t spill coolant on a hot engine.
Occasionally check the coolant level in the radiator.
For information on how to add coolant to the radiator, see “Cooling System” in the Index.
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Radiator Pressure Cap
(Gasoline Engine)
The radiator pressure cap is located on the passenger’s side of the engine compartment.
Power Steering Fluid
The power steering fluid reservoir cap is located at the front of the engine compartment. See “Engine
Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
NOTICE:
Your radiator cap is a 15 psi (105 kPa) pressure
type cap and must be tightly installed to prevent coolant loss and possible engine damage from overheating. Be sure the arrows on the cap line up with the overflow tube on the radiator filler neck.
When to Check Power Steering Fluid
It is not necessary to regularly check power steering fluid unless you suspect there is a leak in the system or you hear an unusual noise. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired.
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How to Check Power Steering Fluid
Turn the key off, let the engine compartment cool down, wipe the cap and the top of the reservoir clean, then unscrew the cap and wipe the dipstick with a clean rag.
Replace the cap and completely tighten it. Then remove the cap again and look at the fluid level on the dipstick.
The level should be at the FULL COLD mark.
If necessary, add only enough fluid to bring the level up to the mark.
What to Use
To determine what kind of fluid to use, see
“Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Always use the proper fluid. Failure to use the proper fluid can cause leaks and damage hoses and seals.
Windshield Washer Fluid
What to Use
When you need windshield washer fluid, be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before use. If you will be operating your vehicle in an area where the temperature may fall below freezing, use a fluid that has sufficient protection against freezing.
Adding Washer Fluid
The windshield washer fluid reservoir cap is located on the driver’s side of the engine compartment.
See “Engine Compartment
Overview” in the Index for more information on location.
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Open the cap labeled WASHER FLUID ONLY.
Add washer fluid until the tank is full.
NOTICE:
D When using concentrated washer fluid,
follow the manufacturer’s instructions for adding water.
D Don’t mix water with ready
to
use washer fluid. Water can cause the solution to freeze and damage your washer fluid tank and other parts of the washer system. Also, water doesn’t clean as well as washer fluid.
D Fill your washer fluid tank only
three
quarters full when it’s very cold.
This allows for expansion if freezing occurs, which could damage the tank if it is completely full.
D Don’t use engine coolant (antifreeze) in
your windshield washer. It can damage your washer system and paint.
Brakes
Brake Fluid
Your brake master cylinder reservoir is filled with
DOT
-
3 brake fluid. See “Engine Compartment
Overview” in the Index for the location of the reservoir.
There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid goes down to an acceptable level during normal brake lining wear. When new linings are put in, the fluid level goes back up.
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The other reason is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If it is, you should have your brake system fixed, since a leak means that sooner or later your brakes won’t work well, or won’t work at all.
So, it isn’t a good idea to “top off” your brake fluid.
Adding brake fluid won’t correct a leak. If you add fluid when your linings are worn, then you’ll have too much fluid when you get new brake linings. You should add
(or remove) brake fluid, as necessary, only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system.
Checking Brake Fluid
CAUTION:
If you have too much brake fluid, it can spill on the engine. The fluid will burn if the engine is hot enough. You or others could be burned, and your vehicle could be damaged. Add brake fluid only when work is done on the brake hydraulic system. See “Checking Brake Fluid” in this section.
Refer to the Maintenance Schedule to determine when to check your brake fluid. See “Periodic Maintenance
Inspections” in the Index.
You can check the brake fluid without taking off the cap.
Just look at the brake fluid reservoir. The fluid level should be above MIN. If it isn’t, have your brake system checked to see if there is a leak.
After work is done on the brake hydraulic system, make sure the level is above the MIN but not over the MAX mark.
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What to Add
When you do need brake fluid, use only DOT
-
3 brake fluid. Refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index. Use new brake fluid from a sealed container only.
Always clean the brake fluid reservoir cap and the area around the cap before removing it. This will help keep dirt from entering the reservoir.
CAUTION:
With the wrong kind of fluid in your brake system, your brakes may not work well, or they may not even work at all. This could cause a crash. Always use the proper brake fluid.
NOTICE:
D Using the wrong fluid can badly damage
brake system parts. For example, just a few drops of mineral
based oil, such as engine oil, in your brake system can damage brake system parts so badly that they’ll have to be replaced. Don’t let someone put in the wrong kind of fluid.
D If you spill brake fluid on your vehicle’s
painted surfaces, the paint finish can be damaged. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on your vehicle. If you do, wash it off immediately. See “Appearance Care” in the Index.
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Brake Wear
Your vehicle has four
wheel disc brakes without wear indicators. If you ever hear a brake rubbing noise, have the brake linings inspected.
NOTICE:
Continuing to drive with worn
out brake pads could result in costly brake repair.
Some driving conditions or climates may cause a brake squeal when the brakes are first applied or lightly applied. This does not mean something is wrong with your brakes.
Properly torqued wheel nuts are necessary to help prevent brake pulsation. When tires are rotated, inspect brake pads for wear and evenly tighten wheel nuts in the proper sequence to GM torque specifications.
Brake linings should always be replaced as complete axle sets.
See “Brake System Inspection” in Section 7 of this manual under Part C “Periodic Maintenance Inspections.”
Brake Pedal Travel
See your dealer if the brake pedal does not return to normal height, or if there is a rapid increase in pedal travel. This could be a sign of brake trouble.
Brake Adjustment
Every time you make a brake stop, your disc brakes adjust for wear.
Replacing Brake System Parts
The braking system on a vehicle is complex. Its many parts have to be of top quality and work well together if the vehicle is to have really good braking. Your vehicle was designed and tested with top
quality GM brake parts.
When you replace parts of your braking system
--
for example, when your brake linings wear down and you have to have new ones put in
--
be sure you get new approved GM replacement parts. If you don’t, your brakes may no longer work properly. For example, if someone puts in brake linings that are wrong for your vehicle, the balance between your front and rear brakes can change
--
for the worse. The braking performance you’ve come to expect can change in many other ways if someone puts in the wrong replacement brake parts.
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Battery
Your new vehicle comes with a maintenance free
ACDelco
R
battery. When it’s time for a new battery, get one that has the replacement number shown on the original battery’s label. We recommend an ACDelco battery. See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the
Index for battery location.
WARNING: Battery posts, terminals and related accessories contain lead and lead compounds, chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm. Wash hands after handling.
Vehicle Storage
If you’re not going to drive your vehicle for 25 days or more, remove the black, negative (
-
) cable from the battery.
This will help keep your battery from running down.
Contact your dealer to learn how to prepare your vehicle for longer storage periods.
Bulb Replacement
For any bulb changing procedure not listed in this section, contact your GM dealership service department.
Before you replace any bulbs, be sure that all the lamps are off and the engine isn’t running. See “Replacement
Bulbs” in the Index for the proper types of bulbs to use.
Halogen Bulbs
CAUTION:
Halogen bulbs have pressurized gas inside and can burst if you drop or scratch the bulb. You or others could be injured. Be sure to read and follow the instructions on the bulb package.
CAUTION:
Batteries have acid that can burn you and gas that can explode. You can be badly hurt if you aren’t careful. See “Jump Starting” in the Index for tips on working around a battery without getting hurt.
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Headlamps
Sealed
-
Beam Headlamps
1. Remove the four screws from the headlamp retainer.
3. Unplug and remove the headlamp.
2. Pull the headlamp out and remove the retainer.
4. Plug in the new headlamp and put it in place.
5. Install the retainer to the headlamp and tighten the screws.
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Composite Headlamps
4. Turn the bulb counterclockwise and remove it.
1. Remove the two hex head pins at the locations shown.
2. Pull out the headlamp lens assembly.
3. Unplug the electrical connector.
5. Put the new bulb into the assembly and turn it clockwise until it is tight.
6. Plug in the electrical connector.
7. Put the headlamp lens assembly back into the vehicle. Install and tighten the two hex head pins.
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Front Turn Signal Lamps
(Sealed-Beam Headlamps)
1. Remove the two screws at the inside edge of the parking/turn signal lamp assembly.
4. Pull the socket out of the lamp assembly.
2. Remove the lamp assembly by swinging it out from the inside edge and sliding it out at the outside edge.
3. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while turning the socket counterclockwise.
5. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it counterclockwise and remove it from the socket.
6. Put the new bulb into the socket, gently press in on the bulb and turn it clockwise until it is tight.
7. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.
8. Put the parking/turn signal lamp assembly back into the vehicle and tighten the screws.
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Front Turn Signal Lamps
(Composite Headlamps)
1. Remove the two screws and take out the parking/turn signal lamp assembly.
3. Pull the socket out of the lamp assembly.
2. Squeeze the tab on the side of the lamp socket while turning the socket counterclockwise.
4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it counterclockwise and remove it from the socket.
5. Put the new bulb into the socket, gently press in on the bulb and turn it clockwise until it is tight.
6. Put the socket back into the lamp assembly and turn it clockwise until it locks.
7. Put the parking/turn signal lamp assembly back into the vehicle and tighten the four screws.
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Front Sidemarker Lamps
(Composite Headlamps)
1. Remove the two screws and pull out the parking/turn signal lamp assembly.
3. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
2. Reach through the opening and turn the sidemarker bulb socket counterclockwise and remove it.
4. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.
5. Put the socket back into the sidemarker assembly and turn it clockwise to tighten it.
6. Reinstall the parking/turn signal lamp assembly and tighten the screws.
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Roof Marker Lamps
1. Remove the screws and lift off the lens.
2. Pull the bulb straight out of the socket.
3. Put a new bulb into the socket and push it in until it is tight.
4. Reinstall the lens and tighten the screws.
Taillamps
1. Using your hands, peel the rubber seal away from the lens.
2. Lift the lens off the lamp assembly.
3. Slide the socket out of the lamp assembly.
4. Push in gently on the bulb, turn it counterclockwise and remove it from the socket.
5. Put in a new bulb and, pushing in gently, turn it clockwise until it is tight.
6. Put the socket back in the lamp assembly and reinstall the lens and lens seal.
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Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
Windshield wiper blades should be inspected at least twice a year for wear and cracking. See “Wiper Blade
Check” in the Index for more information.
Replacement blades come in different types and are removed in different ways. For proper type and length, see “Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts” in the
Index. Here’s how to remove the Shephard’s Hook type.
To replace the windshield wiper blade assembly, do the following:
1. Lift the wiper arm and turn the blade until it is facing away from the windshield.
2. Push the release lever and slide the wiper assembly toward the driver’s side of the vehicle.
3. Install a new blade by reversing Steps 1 and 2.
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Tires
Your new vehicle comes with high
quality tires made by a leading tire manufacturer. If you ever have questions about your tire warranty and where to obtain service, see your GM Warranty booklet for details.
CAUTION:
Poorly maintained and improperly used tires are dangerous.
D Overloading your tires can cause
overheating as a result of too much friction.
You could have an air
out and a serious accident. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
CAUTION: (Continued)
CAUTION: (Continued)
D Underinflated tires pose the same danger
as overloaded tires. The resulting accident could cause serious injury. Check all tires frequently to maintain the recommended pressure. Tire pressure should be checked when your tires are cold.
D Overinflated tires are more likely to be
cut, punctured or broken by a sudden impact
--
such as when you hit a pothole.
Keep tires at the recommended pressure.
D Worn, old tires can cause accidents. If your
tread is badly worn, or if your tires have been damaged, replace them.
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Inflation -- Tire Pressure
The Certification/Tire label, which is on the rear edge of the driver’s door, or on the incomplete vehicle document in the cab, shows the correct inflation pressures for your tires when they’re cold. “Cold” means your vehicle has been sitting for at least three hours or driven no more than 1 mile (1.6 km).
NOTICE:
Don’t let anyone tell you that underinflation or overinflation is all right. It’s not. If your tires don’t have enough air (underinflation), you can get the following:
D Too much flexing
D Too much heat
D Tire overloading
D Bad wear
D Bad handling
D Bad fuel economy.
NOTICE: (Continued)
NOTICE: (Continued)
If your tires have too much air (overinflation), you can get the following:
D Unusual wear
D Bad handling
D Rough ride
D Needless damage from road hazards.
When to Check
Check your tires once a month or more.
How to Check
Use a good quality pocket
type gage to check tire pressure. You can’t tell if your tires are properly inflated simply by looking at them. Radial tires may look properly inflated even when they’re underinflated.
Be sure to put the valve caps back on the valve stems.
They help prevent leaks by keeping out dirt and moisture.
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Tire Inspection and Rotation
Tires should be rotated every 6,000 to 8,000 miles
(10 000 to 13 000 km). Any time you notice unusual wear, rotate your tires as soon as possible and check wheel alignment. Also check for damaged tires or wheels. See “When It’s Time for New Tires” and
“Wheel Replacement” later in this section for more information. Also see “Dual Tire Operation” later in this section.
The purpose of regular rotation is to achieve more uniform wear for all tires on the vehicle. The first rotation is the most important. See “Scheduled
Maintenance Services” in the Index for scheduled rotation intervals.
If the tread design for your front tires is the same as your dual rear tires, always use one of the correct rotation patterns shown here when rotating your tires.
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If the tread design for the front tires is different from the dual rear tires, always use the correct rotation pattern shown here when rotating your tires. The rear dual tires are rotated as a pair, and the inside rear tires become the outside rear tires.
When you install dual wheels, be sure the vent holes in the inner and outer wheels on each side are lined up.
After the tires have been rotated, adjust the front and rear inflation pressures as shown on the Certification/Tire label. Make certain that all wheel nuts are properly tightened. See “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or a paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
See “Tightening the Wheel Nuts” in the Index.
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When It’s Time for New Tires
One way to tell when it’s time for new tires is to check the treadwear indicators, which will appear when your tires have only 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) or less of tread remaining.
Some commercial truck tires may not have treadwear indicators.
You need a new tire if any of the following statements are true:
D You can see the indicators at three or more places around the tire.
D You can see cord or fabric showing through the tire’s rubber.
D The tread or sidewall is cracked, cut or snagged deep enough to show cord or fabric.
D The tire has a bump, bulge or split.
D The tire has a puncture, cut or other damage that can’t be repaired well because of the size or location of the damage.
Dual Tire Operation
When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and
10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel
Nut Torque” in the Index.
The outer tire on a dual wheel setup generally wears faster than the inner tire. Your tires will wear more evenly and last longer if you rotate the tires periodically.
If you’re going to be doing a lot of driving on high
crown roads, you can reduce tire wear by adding
5 psi (35 kPa) to the tire pressure in the outer tires.
Be sure to return to the recommended pressures when no longer driving under those conditions. See “Tightening the Wheel Nuts”in the Index for more information.
CAUTION:
If you operate your vehicle with a tire that is badly underinflated, the tire can overheat.
An overheated tire can lose air suddenly or catch fire. You or others could be injured.
Be sure all tires (including the spare, if any) are properly inflated.
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Tightening the Wheel Nuts
All wheel nuts must be properly tightened.
With a torque wrench, tighten the wheel nuts firmly in a crisscross sequence using the proper wheel nut torque.
CAUTION:
Incorrect wheel nuts or improperly tightened wheel nuts can cause the wheel to become loose and even come off. This could lead to an accident.
Be sure to use the correct wheel nuts. If you have to replace them, be sure to get new GM original equipment wheel nuts.
Tighten with a torque wrench to the proper torque.
When the vehicle is new, or whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after 100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles
(60, 1 600, 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque specifications, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index.
6-46
CAUTION:
Rust or dirt on a wheel, or on the parts to which it is fastened, can make the wheel nuts become loose after a time. The wheel could come off and cause an accident. When you change a wheel, remove any rust or dirt from the places where the wheel attaches to the vehicle. In an emergency, you can use a cloth or paper towel to do this; but be sure to use a scraper or wire brush later, if you need to, to get all the rust or dirt off.
CAUTION:
Never use oil or grease on studs or nuts. If you do, the wheel nuts might come loose and the wheel could fall off, causing a serious accident.
NOTICE:
Improperly tightened wheel nuts can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. To avoid expensive brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts in the proper sequence and to the proper torque specifications.
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Buying New Tires
To find out what kind and size of tires you need, look at the Certification/Tire label.
The tires installed on your vehicle when it was new had a Tire Performance Criteria Specification (TPC Spec) number on each tire’s sidewall. When you get new tires, get ones with that same TPC Spec number. That way your vehicle will continue to have tires that are designed to give proper endurance, handling, speed rating, traction, ride and other things during normal service on your vehicle. If your tires have an all
season tread design, the TPC number will be followed by an “MS”
(for mud and snow).
If you ever replace your tires with those not having a TPC Spec number, make sure they are the same size, load range, speed rating and construction type
(bias, bias
belted or radial) as your original tires.
CAUTION:
Mixing tires could cause you to lose control while driving. If you mix tires of different sizes or types
(radial and bias
belted tires), the vehicle may not handle properly, and you could have a crash.
Using tires of different sizes may also cause damage to your vehicle. Be sure to use the same size and type tires on all wheels.
CAUTION:
If you use bias
ply tires on your vehicle, the wheel rim flanges could develop cracks after many miles of driving. A tire and/or wheel could fail suddenly, causing a crash. Use only radial
ply tires with the wheels on your vehicle.
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Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
The wheels on your vehicle were aligned and balanced carefully at the factory to give you the longest tire life and best overall performance.
Scheduled wheel alignment and wheel balancing are not needed. However, if you notice unusual tire wear or your vehicle pulling one way or the other, the alignment may need to be reset. If you notice your vehicle vibrating when driving on a smooth road, your wheels may need to be rebalanced.
Wheel Replacement
Replace any wheel that is bent, cracked, or badly rusted or corroded. If wheel nuts keep coming loose, the wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts should be replaced. If the wheel leaks air, replace it (except some aluminum wheels, which can sometimes be repaired).
See your dealer if any of these conditions exist.
Your dealer will know the kind of wheel you need.
Each new wheel should have the same load
carrying capacity, diameter, width, offset and be mounted the same way as the one it replaces.
If you need to replace any of your wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts, replace them only with new GM original equipment parts. This way, you will be sure to have the right wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for your vehicle.
CAUTION:
Using the wrong replacement wheels, wheel bolts or wheel nuts on your vehicle can be dangerous.
It could affect the braking and handling of your vehicle, make your tires lose air and make you lose control. You could have a collision in which you or others could be injured. Always use the correct wheel, wheel bolts and wheel nuts for replacement.
6-49
NOTICE:
The wrong wheel can also cause problems with bearing life, brake cooling, speedometer or odometer calibration, headlamp aim, bumper height, vehicle ground clearance and tire or tire chain clearance to the body and chassis.
Whenever a wheel, wheel bolt or wheel nut is replaced on a dual wheel setup, check the wheel nut torque after
100, 1,000 and 6,000 miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km) of driving. For proper torque, see “Wheel Nut Torque” in the Index. See “Tightening the Wheel Nuts” in the
Index for more information.
Used Replacement Wheels
CAUTION:
Putting a used wheel on your vehicle is dangerous. You can’t know how it’s been used or how far it’s been driven. It could fail suddenly and cause an accident. If you have to replace a wheel, use a new GM original equipment wheel.
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Tire Chains
NOTICE:
Don’t use tire chains. They can damage your vehicle because there’s not enough clearance.
Use another type of traction device only if its manufacturer recommends it for use on your vehicle and tire size combination and road conditions. Follow that manufacturer’s instructions. To help avoid damage to your vehicle, drive slowly, readjust or remove the device if it’s contacting your vehicle, and don’t spin your wheels.
If you do find traction devices that will fit, install them on the rear tires.
Don’t use chains on the tires of the front axle.
Tighten them as tightly as possible with the ends securely fastened. Drive slowly and follow the chain manufacturer’s instructions. If you can hear the chains contacting your vehicle, stop and retighten them. If the contact continues, slow down until it stops. Driving too fast or spinning the wheels with chains on will damage your vehicle.
Appearance Care
Remember, cleaning products can be hazardous. Some are toxic. Others can burst into flame if you strike a match or get them on a hot part of the vehicle. Some are dangerous if you breathe their fumes in a closed space.
When you use anything from a container to clean your vehicle, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions. And always open your doors or windows when you’re cleaning the inside.
Never use these to clean your vehicle:
D Gasoline
D Benzene
D Naphtha
D Carbon Tetrachloride
D Acetone
D Paint Thinner
D Turpentine
D Lacquer Thinner
D Nail Polish Remover
They can all be hazardous
--
some more than others
--
and they can all damage your vehicle, too.
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Don’t use any of these unless this manual says you can.
In many uses, these will damage your vehicle:
D Alcohol
D Laundry Soap
D Bleach
D Reducing Agents
Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
Use a vacuum cleaner often to get rid of dust and loose dirt. Wipe vinyl, leather, plastic and painted surfaces with a clean, damp cloth.
Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet
Your dealer has two cleaners, Multi
-
Purpose Interior
Cleaner and Capture Non
-
Solvent Dry Spot and
Soil Remover for cleaning fabric and carpet. They will clean normal spots and stains very well. You can get
GM
approved cleaning products from your dealer.
See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.
Here are some cleaning tips:
D Always read the instructions on the cleaner label.
D Clean up stains as soon as you can
--
before they set.
D Carefully scrape off any excess stain.
D Use a clean cloth or sponge, and change to a clean area often. A soft brush may be used if stains are stubborn.
D If a ring forms on fabric after spot cleaning, clean the entire area immediately or it will set.
Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric
1. Vacuum and brush the area to remove any loose dirt.
2. Always clean a whole trim panel or section.
Mask surrounding trim along stitch or welt lines.
3. Mix powdered cleaner following the directions on the container label to form thick suds.
4. Use suds only and apply with a clean sponge.
Don’t saturate the material and don’t rub it roughly.
5. As soon as you’ve cleaned the section, use a sponge to remove the suds.
6. Wipe cleaned area with a clean, damp towel or cloth.
7. Wipe with a clean cloth and let dry.
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Special Fabric Cleaning Problems
Stains caused by such things as catsup, coffee (black), egg, fruit, fruit juice, milk, soft drinks, vomit, urine and blood can be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain, then sponge the soiled area with cool water.
2. If a stain remains, follow the Multi
-
Purpose Interior
Cleaner instructions described earlier.
3. If an odor lingers after cleaning vomit or urine, treat the area with a water/baking soda solution:
1 teaspoon (5 ml) of baking soda to 1 cup (250 ml) of lukewarm water.
4. Let dry.
Stains caused by candy, ice cream, mayonnaise, chili sauce and unknown stains can be removed as follows:
1. Carefully scrape off excess stain.
2. First, clean with cool water and allow to dry completely.
3. If a stain remains, follow instructions for
Multi
-
Purpose Interior Cleaner.
Cleaning Vinyl
Use warm water and a clean cloth.
D Rub with a clean, damp cloth to remove dirt.
You may have to do it more than once.
D Things like tar, asphalt and shoe polish will stain if you don’t get them off quickly. Use a clean cloth and a vinyl/leather cleaner. See your dealer for this product.
Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel
Use only mild soap and water to clean the top surfaces of the instrument panel. Sprays containing silicones or waxes may cause annoying reflections in the windshield and even make it difficult to see through the windshield under certain conditions.
Cleaning Interior Plastic Components
Use only a mild soap and water solution on a soft cloth or sponge. Commercial cleaners may affect the surface finish.
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Care of Safety Belts
Keep belts clean and dry.
CAUTION:
Do not bleach or dye safety belts. If you do, it may severely weaken them. In a crash, they might not be able to provide adequate protection.
Clean safety belts only with mild soap and lukewarm water.
Cleaning Glass Surfaces
Glass should be cleaned often. GM Glass Cleaner or a liquid household glass cleaner will remove normal tobacco smoke and dust films on interior glass. See
“Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.
Don’t use abrasive cleaners on glass, because they may cause scratches. Avoid placing decals on the inside rear window, since they may have to be scraped off later.
If abrasive cleaners are used on the inside of the rear window, an electric defogger element may be damaged.
Any temporary license should not be attached across the defogger grid.
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Cleaning the Outside of the
Windshield and Wiper Blades
If the windshield is not clear after using the windshield washer, or if the wiper blade chatters when running, wax, sap or other material may be on the blade or windshield.
Clean the outside of the windshield with GM Windshield
Cleaner, Bon Ami
R
Powder (non
scratching glass cleaning powder), GM Part No. 1050011. The windshield is clean if beads do not form when you rinse it with water.
Grime from the windshield will stick to the wiper blades and affect their performance. Clean the blade by wiping vigorously with a cloth soaked in full
strength windshield washer solvent. Then rinse the blade with water.
Check the wiper blades and clean them as necessary; replace blades that look worn.
Weatherstrips
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth at least every six months. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
The paint finish on your vehicle provides beauty, depth of color, gloss retention and durability.
Washing Your Vehicle
The best way to preserve your vehicle’s finish is to keep it clean by washing it often with lukewarm or cold water.
Don’t wash your vehicle in the direct rays of the sun.
Use a car washing soap. Don’t use strong soaps or chemical detergents. Be sure to rinse the vehicle well, removing all soap residue completely. You can get
GM
approved cleaning products from your dealer.
See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.
Don’t use cleaning agents that are petroleum based, or that contain acid or abrasives. All cleaning agents should be flushed promptly and not allowed to dry on the surface, or they could stain. Dry the finish with a soft, clean chamois or an all
cotton towel to avoid surface scratches and water spotting.
High pressure car washes may cause water to enter your vehicle.
Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
Use only lukewarm or cold water, a soft cloth and a car washing soap to clean exterior lamps and lenses. Follow instructions under “Washing Your Vehicle.”
Finish Care
Occasional waxing or mild polishing of your vehicle by hand may be necessary to remove residue from the paint finish. You can get GM
approved cleaning products from your dealer. See “Appearance Care and Materials” in the Index.
Your vehicle may have a “basecoat/clearcoat” paint finish. The clearcoat gives more depth and gloss to the colored basecoat. Always use waxes and polishes that are non
abrasive and made for a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish.
NOTICE:
Machine compounding or aggressive polishing on a basecoat/clearcoat paint finish may dull the finish or leave swirl marks.
6-55
Foreign materials such as calcium chloride and other salts, ice melting agents, road oil and tar, tree sap, bird droppings, chemicals from industrial chimneys, etc., can damage your vehicle’s finish if they remain on painted surfaces. Wash the vehicle as soon as possible.
If necessary, use non
abrasive cleaners that are marked safe for painted surfaces to remove foreign matter.
Exterior painted surfaces are subject to aging, weather and chemical fallout that can take their toll over a period of years. You can help to keep the paint finish looking new by keeping your vehicle garaged or covered whenever possible.
Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts
Bright metal parts should be cleaned regularly to keep their luster. Washing with water is all that is usually needed. However, you may use chrome polish on chrome or stainless steel trim, if necessary.
Use special care with aluminum trim. To avoid damaging protective trim, never use auto or chrome polish, steam or caustic soap to clean aluminum.
A coating of wax, rubbed to high polish, is recommended for all bright metal parts.
Cleaning Tires
To clean your tires, use a stiff brush with a tire cleaner.
NOTICE:
When applying a tire dressing always take care to wipe off any overspray or splash from all painted surfaces on the body or wheels of the vehicle.
Petroleum
based products may damage the paint finish and tires.
Sheet Metal Damage
If your vehicle is damaged and requires sheet metal repair or replacement, make sure the body repair shop applies anti
corrosion material to the parts repaired or replaced to restore corrosion protection.
Original manufacturer replacement parts will provide the corrosion protection while maintaining the warranty.
6-56
Finish Damage
Any stone chips, fractures or deep scratches in the finish should be repaired right away. Bare metal will corrode quickly and may develop into a major repair expense.
Minor chips and scratches can be repaired with touch
up materials available from your dealer or other service outlets. Larger areas of finish damage can be corrected in your dealer’s body and paint shop.
Underbody Maintenance
Chemicals used for ice and snow removal and dust control can collect on the underbody. If these are not removed, accelerated corrosion (rust) can occur on the underbody parts such as fuel lines, frame, floor pan and exhaust system even though they have corrosion protection.
At least every spring, flush these materials from the underbody with plain water. Clean any areas where mud and other debris can collect. Dirt packed in closed areas of the frame should be loosened before being flushed.
Your dealer or an underbody car washing system can do this for you.
Chemical Paint Spotting
Some weather and atmospheric conditions can create a chemical fallout. Airborne pollutants can fall upon and attack painted surfaces on your vehicle. This damage can take two forms: blotchy, ringlet
shaped discolorations, and small irregular dark spots etched into the paint surface.
Although no defect in the paint job causes this, GM will repair, at no charge to the owner, the surfaces of new vehicles damaged by this fallout condition within
12 months or 12,000 miles (20 000 km) of purchase, whichever occurs first.
This applies only to materials manufactured and sold by
General Motors. Bodies, body conversions or equipment not made or sold by General Motors are not covered.
6-57
GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
PART NUMBER
994954
1050172
1050173
1050174
1050214
1050427
1052918**
1052925
1052929
1052930
12345721
12345725
12377964*
12377966*
12377984*
SIZE
23 in. x 25 in.
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
8 oz. (0.237 L)
2.5 sq. ft.
12 oz. (0.354 L)
DESCRIPTION
Polishing Cloth – Wax Treated
USAGE
Exterior polishing cloth
Tar and Road Oil Remover Removes tar, road oil and asphalt
Chrome Cleaner and Polish Use on chrome, stainless steel, nickel, copper and brass
16 oz. (0.473 L) White Sidewall Tire Cleaner
32 oz. (0.946 L) Vinyl Cleaner
23 oz. (0.680 L) Glass Cleaner
8 oz. (0.237 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Armor All t Protectant
Multi-Purpose
Interior Cleaner
Wheel Cleaner
Capture Dry Spot Remover
Synthetic Chamois
Removes soil and black marks from whitewalls
Cleans vinyl tops, upholstery and convertible tops
Removes dirt, grime, smoke and fingerprints
Protects leather, wood, acrylics, Plexiglas t, plastic, rubber and vinyl
Cleans carpets, seats, interior trim, door panels and floor mats
Spray on and rinse with water
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
16 oz. (0.473 L)
Silicone Tire Shine
Finish Enhancer
Cleaner Wax
Surface Cleaner
Attracts, absorbs and removes soils on fabric
Shines vehicle without scratching
Spray on tire shine
Removes dust, fingerprints and surface contaminants
Removes light scratches and oxidation and protects finish
Removes contaminants, blemishes and swirl marks
See your General Motors Parts Department for these products.
See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
* For exterior use only.
** Not recommended for use on instrument panels.
6-58
Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
This is the legal identifier for your vehicle. It appears on a plate in the front corner of the instrument panel, on the driver’s side. You can see it if you look through the windshield from outside your vehicle. The VIN also appears on the Vehicle Certification and Service Parts labels and the certificates of title and registration.
Engine Identification
The 8th character in your VIN is the engine code. This code will help you identify your engine, specifications and replacement parts.
Service Parts Identification Label
You’ll find this label on the inside of the glove box.
It’s very helpful if you ever need to order parts.
On this label is:
D your VIN,
D the model designation,
D paint information and
D a list of all production options and special equipment.
Be sure that this label is not removed from the vehicle.
Electrical System
Add-On Electrical Equipment
NOTICE:
Don’t add anything electrical to your vehicle unless you check with your dealer first. Some electrical equipment can damage your vehicle and the damage wouldn’t be covered by your warranty. Some add
on electrical equipment can keep other components from working as they should.
6-59
Headlamps
The headlamp wiring is protected by an internal circuit breaker. An electrical overload will cause the lamps to go on and off, or in some cases to remain off.
If this happens, have your headlamp wiring checked right away.
Windshield Wipers
The windshield wiper motor is protected by a circuit breaker and a fuse. If the motor overheats due to heavy snow, etc., the wiper will stop until the motor cools.
If the overload is caused by some electrical problem and not snow, etc., be sure to get it fixed.
Power Windows and Other Power Options
Circuit breakers protect the power windows and other power accessories. When the current load is too heavy, the circuit breaker opens and closes, protecting the circuit until the problem is fixed or goes away.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
The wiring circuits in your vehicle are protected from short circuits by a combination of fuses, circuit breakers and fusible thermal links. This greatly reduces the chance of fires caused by electrical problems.
Look at the silver
colored band inside the fuse. If the band is broken or melted, replace the fuse. Be sure you replace a bad fuse with a new one of the identical size and rating.
If you ever have a problem on the road and don’t have a spare fuse, you can borrow one that has the same amperage. Just pick some feature of your vehicle that you can get along without
--
like the radio or cigarette lighter
--
and use its fuse, if it is the correct amperage.
Replace it as soon as you can.
6-60
Instrument Panel Fuse Block
The fuse block access door is on the driver’s side edge of the instrument panel.
Pull off the cover to access the fuse block.
You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor which is mounted to the fuse block access door. To remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out.
You may have spare fuses located behind the fuse block access door. These can be used to replace a bad fuse.
However, make sure it is of the correct amperage.
Fuse/Circuit
Breaker
1
Usage
2
3
Stop/TCC Switch, Buzzer, CHMSL,
Hazard Lamps, Stoplamps
Not Used
Courtesy Lamps, Cargo Lamp,
Glove Box Lamp, Dome/Reading
Lamps, Vanity Mirrors
6-61
Fuse/Circuit
Breaker
4
Usage
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
Instrument Cluster, DRL Relay,
Lamp Switch, Keyless Entry, Low
Coolant Module, Illuminated Entry
Module, DRAC (Diesel Engine)
Not Used
Cruise Control
Auxiliary Power Outlet
Crank
License Lamp, Parking Lamps,
Taillamps, Roof Marker
Lamps, Front Sidemarkers,
Door Switch Illumination,
Headlamp Switch Illumination
Not Used
Wiper Motor, Washer Pump
A/C, A/C Blower,
High Blower Relay
Power Amp, Cigarette Lighter,
Door Lock Relay
6-62
Fuse/Circuit
Breaker
14
Usage
15
16
21
22
23
24
A
17
18
19
20
B
Cluster, Comfort Controls,
Instrument Switches, Radio
Illumination, Chime Module
DRL Relay
Front and Rear Turn Signals,
Back
-
Up Lamps
Radio (Ignition)
4WAL/VCM, ABS, Cruise Control
Radio (Battery)
PRNDL, Automatic Transmission,
Speedometer, Check Gages
Warning Light
Security/Steering
Not Used
Not Used
TP2 Relay (Gasoline Engine)
Power Door Lock, Keyless
Entry Module
Power Windows
Underhood Fuse/Relay Center
The underhood fuse/relay center is located in the rear of the engine compartment near the brake fluid reservoir.
See “Engine Compartment Overview” in the Index for more information on location. Move the retainer clips for the cover to access the fuse block.
You can remove fuses with a fuse extractor which is mounted to the interior fuse block. To remove fuses if you don’t have a fuse extractor, hold the end of the fuse between your thumb and index finger and pull straight out.
Name
Starter Relay
Brake
Lamp Relay
Blank
Usage
Starter
A/C Relay Air Conditioning
Fuel Pump Relay Fuel Pump
Brake Lamp
Not Used
6-63
Name
Horn Relay
ECM
-
B
RR DEFOG
IGN
-
E
Blank
Blank
Blank
HORN
AUX FAN
ECM
-
1
HTD ST
-
FR
Blank
Blank
A/C
PTO
6-64
Usage
Horn
Fuel Pump, PCM/VCM
Not Used
A/C Compressor Relay,
Dual Tanks
Not Used
Not Used
Not Used
Horn, Underhood Lamps
Not Used
Injectors, PCM/VCM, Fuel
Solenoid (Diesel Engine) Fuel
Control Module (Diesel Engine)
Not Used
Not Used
Not Used
Air Conditioning
PTO Relay
Name
ENG
-
1
HTD ST
-
RR
Blank
Diode
LIGHTING
BATT
IGN A
IGN B
ABS
BLOWER
STOP/HAZ
HEATED
SEATS
Usage
Ignition Switch, EGR, Canister
Purge, EVRV Idle Coast
Solenoid, MAF, Heated O
2
,
Fuel Heater (Diesel Engine),
Water Sensor (Diesel Engine),
Boost Solenoid (Diesel Engine),
EPR (Diesel Engine)
Not Used
Not Used
Not Used
Headlamp and Panel Dimmer
Switch, Fog and Courtesy Fuses
Battery, Fuse Block Busbar
Ignition Switch
Ignition Switch
Anti
-
Lock Brake Module
High Blower Relay
Stoplamps
Not Used
Replacement Bulbs
Exterior Lamps
Sealed Beam Headlamps
Composite Low
-
Beam
Headlamps
Composite High
-
Beam
Headlamps
Front Marker Lamp
Front Parking and Turn Lamp
Rear Parking Lamp
Rear Stop and Turn Lamp
Back
up Lamp
Roof Marker Lamp
Quantity Number
2 H6054
2 9006
2
2
4
2
2
2
5
9005
194
2357NA
3057
3057
3156
194
Interior Lamps
Dome Lamps
Reading Lamps
Door Courtesy Lamps
Instrument Panel
Compartment Lamp
Quantity Number
2
2
2
1
211
-
2
211
-
2
194
194
For service information on other bulbs, contact your dealer’s service department.
6-65
Capacities and Specifications
All capacities are approximate. When adding, be sure to fill to the appropriate level or as recommended in this manual.
Please refer to “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index for more information.
Engine Type
“VORTEC” 8100 V8
VIN
Code
G
Spark Plug
Gap
0.060 inches
(1.52 mm)
Wheels and Tires
Model
Front
Rear
Description Torque
5 bolts (5/8 in.)
175 lb
ft (240 N·m)
10 bolts (5/8 in.) 175 lb
ft (240 N·m)
Tire Pressure See the Certification/Tire label on the rear edge of the driver’s door or the incomplete vehicle document in the cab.
Cooling System Capacity
After refill, the level must be rechecked. See “Cooling
System” in the Index.
Engine
“VORTEC” 8100
VIN
G
Quantity
28.5 quarts (27.0 L)
Crankcase Capacity
After refill, the level must be rechecked. Add enough engine oil so that the fluid is within the proper operating range. See “Engine Oil” in the Index.
Engine VIN
Quantity with
Filter
[
“VORTEC” 8100 G 6.6 quarts (6.3 L)
[Oil filter should be changed at every oil change.
Fuel Tank Capacity
Type
Front Tank
Rear Tank
Quantity
22 U.S. gallons (79 L)
18 U.S. gallons (68 L)
6-66
Normal Maintenance
Replacement Parts
Replacement part numbers listed in this section are based on the latest information available at the time of printing, and are subject to change. If a part listed in this manual is not the same as the part used in your vehicle when it was built, or if you have any questions, please contact your GM truck dealer.
These specifications are for information only. If you have any questions, see the service manual for the chassis or refer to the body manufacturer’s publications.
VIN Code . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G
Oil Filter* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Air Cleaner Filter*
PF454
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . A1300C
[[
Spark Plugs*** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . TJ14R
-
P15
Fuel Filter* . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . GF626
Wiper Blades** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22154886
Wiper Blade Type . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Trico
Wiper Blade Length . . . . . . 18 inches (45.0 cm)
*ACDelco
R
part number
**GM part number
***Denso part number
[[A1301C high
capacity air cleaner filter.
6-67
Section 7 Maintenance Schedule
This section covers the maintenance required for your vehicle. Your vehicle needs these services to retain its safety, dependability and emission control performance.
Introduction
Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
Part B: Owner Checks and Services
Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections
Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
Part E: Maintenance Record
7-
7-1
Have you purchased the GM Protection Plan? The Plan supplements your new vehicle warranties. See your
Warranty and Owner Assistance booklet or your dealer for details.
Introduction
Your Vehicle and the Environment
Proper vehicle maintenance not only helps to keep your vehicle in good working condition, but also helps the environment. All recommended maintenance procedures are important. Improper vehicle maintenance can even affect the quality of the air we breathe. Improper fluid levels or the wrong tire inflation can increase the level of emissions from your vehicle. To help protect our environment, and to keep your vehicle in good condition, please maintain your vehicle properly.
Maintenance Requirements
Maintenance intervals, checks, inspections and recommended fluids and lubricants as prescribed in this manual are necessary to keep your vehicle in good working condition. Any damage caused by failure to follow recommended maintenance may not be covered by warranty.
7-2
How This Section is Organized
This maintenance schedule is divided into five parts:
“Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services” shows what to have done and how often. Some of these services can be complex, so unless you are technically qualified and have the necessary equipment, you should let your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center do these jobs.
CAUTION:
Performing maintenance work on a vehicle can be dangerous. In trying to do some jobs, you can be seriously injured. Do your own maintenance work only if you have the required know
how and the proper tools and equipment for the job.
If you have any doubt, have a qualified technician do the work.
“Part B: Owner Checks and Services” tells you what should be checked and when. It also explains what you can easily do to help keep your vehicle in good condition.
“Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections” explains important inspections that your dealer’s service department or another qualified service center should perform.
“Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” lists some recommended products necessary to help keep your vehicle properly maintained. These products, or their equivalents, should be used whether you do the work yourself or have it done.
“Part E: Maintenance Record” is a place for you to record and keep track of the maintenance performed on your vehicle. Keep your maintenance receipts. They may be needed to qualify your vehicle for warranty repairs.
If you want to get the service information, see “Service and Owner Publications” in the Index.
7-3
Part A: Scheduled
Maintenance Services
Using Your Maintenance Schedule
We at General Motors want to help you keep your vehicle in good working condition. But we don’t know exactly how you’ll drive it. You may drive very short distances only a few times a week. Or you may drive long distances all the time in very hot, dusty weather.
You may use your vehicle in making deliveries.
Or you may drive it to work, to do errands or in many other ways.
Because of all the different ways people use their vehicles, maintenance needs vary. You may need more frequent checks and replacements. So please read the following and note how you drive. If you have any questions on how to keep your vehicle in good condition, see your dealer.
This part tells you the maintenance services you should have done and when you should schedule them. If you go to your dealer for your service needs, you’ll know that GM
trained and supported service people will perform the work using genuine GM parts.
The proper fluids and lubricants to use are listed in
Part D. Make sure whoever services your vehicle uses these. All parts should be replaced and all necessary repairs done before you or anyone else drives the vehicle.
These schedules are for vehicles that:
D carry passengers and cargo within recommended limits. You will find these limits on your vehicle’s
Certification/Tire label. See “Loading Your Vehicle” in the Index.
D are driven on reasonable road surfaces within legal driving limits.
D use the recommended fuel. See “Fuel” in the Index.
Selecting the Right Schedule
First you’ll need to decide which of the two schedules is right for your vehicle. Here’s how to decide which schedule to follow:
7-4
Scheduled Maintenance
Short Trip/City Definition
Follow the Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance if any one of these conditions is true for your vehicle:
D Most trips are less than 5 to 10 miles (8 to 16 km).
This is particularly important when outside temperatures are below freezing.
D Most trips include extensive idling (such as frequent driving in stop
and
go traffic).
D You operate your vehicle in dusty areas or off
road frequently.
D You frequently tow a trailer.
D If the vehicle is used for delivery service, police, taxi or other commercial application.
One of the reasons you should follow this schedule if you operate your vehicle under any of these conditions is that these conditions cause engine oil to break down sooner.
Short Trip/City Intervals
Every 3,000 Miles (5 000 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or 3 months, whichever occurs first). Chassis
Lubrication (or 3 months, whichever occurs first).
Rear Axle Fluid Check.
Every 6,000 Miles (10 000 km): Tire Rotation.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Shields and
Underhood Insulation Inspection. Diesel Engine
Only: Thermostatically Controlled Engine Cooling
Fan Check (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Diesel Engine Only: Air Intake System
Inspection. Front Wheel Bearing Repack
(or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
Every 24,000 Miles (40 000 km): Diesel Engine Only:
Fuel Cap Replacement, if driving in dusty conditions.
(Continued)
7-5
Scheduled Maintenance
Short Trip/City Intervals
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Rear Axle Fluid
Change with Extreme Overload, Trailer Towing or
High Speed Use. Fuel Filter Replacement.
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service.
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory
Drive Belt Inspection. If Equipped: Exhaust Gas
Recirculation System Inspection. Gasoline Engine
Only: Evaporative Control System Inspection.
Diesel Engine Only: Crankcase Depression Regulator
Valve (CDRV) System Check.
Short Trip/City Intervals
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Gasoline Engine
Only: Spark Plug Wire Inspection. Gasoline Engine
Only: Spark Plug Replacement. Gasoline Engine
Only: Automatic Transmission Service (normal conditions). Gasoline Engine Only: Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance on the following pages.
7-6
Scheduled Maintenance
Long Trip/Highway Definition
Follow this scheduled maintenance only if none of the conditions from the Short Trip/City Scheduled
Maintenance are true. Do not use this schedule if the vehicle is used for trailer towing, driven in a dusty area or used off paved roads. Use the Short Trip/City schedule for these conditions.
Driving a vehicle with a fully warmed engine under highway conditions causes engine oil to break down slower.
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 7,500 Miles (12 500 km): Engine Oil and Filter
Change (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
Chassis Lubrication (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Rear Axle Fluid Check. Tire Rotation.
Every 15,000 Miles (25 000 km): Shields and
Underhood Insulation Inspection. Diesel Engine
Only: Thermostatically Controlled Engine Cooling
Fan Check (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Diesel Engine Only: Air Intake
System Inspection.
Every 30,000 Miles (50 000 km): Rear Axle
Fluid Change with High Speed Use. Fuel Filter
Replacement. Front Wheel Bearing Repack
(or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
(Continued)
7-7
Scheduled Maintenance
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 50,000 Miles (83 000 km): Automatic
Transmission Service.
Every 60,000 Miles (100 000 km): Engine Accessory
Drive Belt Inspection. If Equipped: Exhaust Gas
Recirculation System Inspection. Gasoline Engine
Only: Evaporative Control System Inspection.
Diesel Engine Only: Crankcase Depression Regulator
Valve (CDRV) System Check.
Long Trip/Highway Intervals
Every 100,000 Miles (166 000 km): Gasoline Engine
Only: Spark Plug Wire Inspection. Gasoline Engine
Only: Spark Plug Replacement. Gasoline Engine
Only: Automatic Transmission Service (normal conditions). Gasoline Engine Only: Positive
Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve Inspection.
Every 150,000 Miles (240 000 km): Cooling System
Service (or every 60 months, whichever occurs first).
These intervals only summarize maintenance services.
Be sure to follow the complete scheduled maintenance on the following pages.
7-8
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals. The services shown at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be performed at the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km).
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic
Maintenance Inspections” following.
Footnotes
[ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the front suspension, kingpin bushings, steering linkage, transmission shift linkage, parking brake cable guides, rear driveline center splines and brake pedal springs. Ball joints and kingpin bushings should not be lubricated unless their temperature is
10
_F (
-
12
_C) or higher, or they could be damaged.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of this schedule.
7-9
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
3,000 Miles (5 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
6,000 Miles (10 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
9,000 Miles (15 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
7-10
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
12,000 Miles (20 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable
only to vehicles sold in the United States.
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
SERVICED BY:
7-11
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
15,000 Miles (25 000 km) (Continued)
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect all hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
18,000 Miles (30 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-12
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
21,000 Miles (35 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
24,000 Miles (40 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Diesel Engine Only: Replace fuel filler cap if driving in dusty conditions.
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-13
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
27,000 Miles (45 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Change axle fluid if the vehicle is driven in extreme overload, trailer towing and/or high
speed
(above 40 mph or 70 km/h) conditions for extended periods of time.
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable
only to vehicles sold in the United States.
7-14
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect all hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
33,000 Miles (55 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-15
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
36,000 Miles (60 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
39,000 Miles (65 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-16
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
42,000 Miles (70 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings
(or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable
only to vehicles sold in the United States.
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
SERVICED BY:
7-17
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
45,000 Miles (75 000 km) (Continued)
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect all hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
48,000 Miles (80 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Diesel Engine Only: Replace fuel filler cap if driving in dusty conditions.
An Emission Control Service.
7-18
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter. Manual transmission fluid doesn’t require change.
51,000 Miles (85 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
54,000 Miles (90 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-19
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
57,000 Miles (95 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Change axle fluid if the vehicle is driven in extreme overload, trailer towing and/or high
speed
(above 40 mph or 70 km/h) conditions for extended periods of time.
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable
only to vehicles sold in the United States.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-20
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
j Inspect engine accessory drive belt.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j If Equipped: Conduct Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system inspection as described in the service manual.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Gasoline Engine Only: Conduct evaporative control system inspection. Check all fuel and vapor lines and hoses for proper hook
up, routing and condition.
Check that the purge valve works properly (if equipped). Replace as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
(Continued)
7-21
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
60,000 Miles (100 000 km) (Continued)
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect all hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the crankcase depression regulator valve system for any worn, plugged or collapsed hoses. See service manual.
An Emission Control Service.
63,000 Miles (105 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-22
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
66,000 Miles (110 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
69,000 Miles (115 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-23
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
72,000 Miles (120 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Diesel Engine Only: Replace fuel filler cap if driving in dusty conditions.
An Emission Control Service.
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings
(or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable only
to vehicles sold in the United States.
7-24
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect all hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
78,000 Miles (130 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-25
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
81,000 Miles (135 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
84,000 Miles (140 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
87,000 Miles (145 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
7-26
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Change axle fluid if the vehicle is driven in extreme overload, trailer towing and/or high
speed
(above 40 mph or 70 km/h) conditions for extended periods of time.
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings
(or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable only
to vehicles sold in the United States.
(Continued)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-27
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
90,000 Miles (150 000 km) (Continued)
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect all hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
93,000 Miles (155 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-28
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
96,000 Miles (160 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Diesel Engine Only: Replace fuel filler cap if driving in dusty conditions.
An Emission Control Service.
99,000 Miles (165 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 3 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-29
Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
j Gasoline Engine Only: Inspect spark plug wires.
An Emission Control Service.
j Gasoline Engine Only: Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service. j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter. Manual transmission fluid doesn’t require change.
j Gasoline Engine Only: Inspect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
An Emission Control Service.
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last service, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use.
Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-30
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
The services shown in this schedule up to 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) should be performed after 100,000 miles
(166 000 km) at the same intervals. The services shown at 150,000 miles (240 000 km) should be performed at the same interval after 150,000 miles (240 000 km).
See “Owner Checks and Services” and “Periodic
Maintenance Inspections” following.
Footnotes
[ The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the
California Air Resources Board has determined that the failure to perform this maintenance item will not nullify the emission warranty or limit recall liability prior to the completion of the vehicle’s useful life. We, however, urge that all recommended maintenance services be performed at the indicated intervals and the maintenance be recorded.
# Lubricate the front suspension, kingpin bushings, steering linkage, transmission shift linkage, parking brake cable guides, rear driveline center splines and brake pedal springs. Ball joints and kingpin bushings should not be lubricated unless their temperature is
10
_F (
-
12
_C) or higher, or they could be damaged.
+ A good time to check your brakes is during tire rotation. See “Brake System Inspection” under
“Periodic Maintenance Inspections” in Part C of this schedule.
7-31
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
7,500 Miles (12 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
15,000 Miles (25 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable
only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
7-32
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
22,500 Miles (37 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-33
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
30,000 Miles (50 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Change axle fluid if the vehicle is driven in high
speed (above 40 mph or 70 km/h) conditions for extended periods of time.
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings
(or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable only
to vehicles sold in the United States.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-34
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States. j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
37,500 Miles (62 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-35
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
45,000 Miles (75 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable only
to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States. j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
7-36
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
50,000 Miles (83 000 km)
j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter. Manual transmission fluid doesn’t require change.
52,500 Miles (87 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-37
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
60,000 Miles (100 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Change axle fluid if the vehicle is driven in high
speed (above 40 mph or 70 km/h) conditions for extended periods of time.
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings (or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.) j Inspect engine accessory drive belt.
An Emission Control Service.
j Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable only
to vehicles sold in the United States.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-38
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
j If Equipped: Inspect Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system as described in the service manual.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Gasoline Engine Only: Inspect Evaporative Control System. Check all fuel and vapor lines and hoses for proper hook
up, routing and condition.
Check that the purge valve works properly, if equipped. Replace as needed.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States. j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the crankcase depression regulator valve system for any worn, plugged or collapsed hoses. See service manual.
An Emission Control Service.
7-39
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
67,500 Miles (112 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
75,000 Miles (125 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable only
to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-40
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
82,500 Miles (137 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-41
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
90,000 Miles (150 000 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed. Change axle fluid if the vehicle is driven in high
speed (above 40 mph or 70 km/h) conditions for extended periods of time.
j Clean and repack the front wheel bearings
(or at each brake relining, whichever occurs first).
j Replace fuel filter.
An Emission Control Service. (See footnote
[.) j Inspect shields and underhood insulation for damage or looseness. Adjust or replace as required. This is a Noise Emission Control Service. Applicable only
to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-42
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
j Diesel Engine Only: Check the air intake system installation to assure that gaskets are properly sealed and that all hose connections, fasteners and other components are tight. Also check to be sure that the air cleaner housing is properly seated and the cover fits tightly. Tighten connections and fasteners or replace damaged parts as necessary. This is a Noise Emission Control Service.
Applicable only to vehicles sold in the United States.
j Diesel Engine Only: If your engine has a thermostatically controlled cooling fan, inspect hoses and ducts for proper hook
up (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Be sure the valve works properly. This is a Noise
Emission Control Service. Applicable only to vehicles sold in the
United States.
97,500 Miles (162 500 km)
j Change engine oil and filter (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
An Emission Control Service. j Lubricate chassis components (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first).
(See footnote #.)
j Check rear axle fluid level and add fluid as needed.
j Rotate tires. See “Tire Inspection and Rotation” in the Index for proper rotation pattern and additional information. (See footnote +.)
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-43
Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
100,000 Miles (166 000 km)
j Gasoline Engine Only: Inspect spark plug wires.
An Emission Control Service.
j Gasoline Engine Only: Replace spark plugs.
An Emission Control Service. j Change automatic transmission fluid and filter. Manual transmission fluid doesn’t require change.
j Gasoline Engine Only: Inspect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve.
An Emission Control Service.
150,000 Miles (240 000 km)
j Drain, flush and refill cooling system (or every 60 months since last service, whichever occurs first). See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for what to use.
Inspect hoses. Clean radiator, condenser, pressure cap and neck.
Pressure test the cooling system and pressure cap.
An Emission Control Service.
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
DATE
ACTUAL
MILEAGE
SERVICED BY:
7-44
Part B: Owner Checks and Services
Listed in this part are owner checks and services which should be performed at the intervals specified to help ensure the safety, dependability and emission control performance of your vehicle.
Be sure any necessary repairs are completed at once.
Whenever any fluids or lubricants are added to your vehicle, make sure they are the proper ones, as shown in Part D.
At the First 100, 1,000 and 6,000 Miles
(160, 1 600 and 10 000 km)
Check dual wheel nut torque. For proper torque, see
“Wheel Nut Torque” and “Tightening the Wheel Nuts” in the Index.
At Each Fuel Fill
It is important for you or a service station attendant to perform these underhood checks at each fuel fill.
Engine Oil Level Check
Check the engine oil level and add the proper oil if necessary. See “Engine Oil” in the Index for further details.
Engine Coolant Level Check
Check the engine coolant level and add DEX
-
COOL
R coolant mixture if necessary. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index for further details.
Windshield Washer Fluid Level Check
Check the windshield washer fluid level in the windshield washer tank and add the proper fluid if necessary. See “Windshield Washer Fluid” in the
Index for further details.
At Least Once a Month
Tire Inflation Check
Make sure tires are inflated to the correct pressures.
Don’t forget to check your spare tire. See “Tires” in the Index for further details.
Cassette Deck Service
Clean cassette deck. Cleaning should be done every
50 hours of tape play. See “Audio Systems” in the
Index for further details.
7-45
At Least Twice a Year
Restraint System Check
Make sure the safety belt reminder light and all your belts, buckles, latch plates, retractors and anchorages are working properly. Look for any other loose or damaged safety belt system parts. If you see anything that might keep a safety belt system from doing its job, have it repaired. Have any torn or frayed safety belts replaced.
Wiper Blade Check
Inspect wiper blades for wear or cracking. Replace blade inserts that appear worn or damaged or that streak or miss areas of the windshield. Also see “Wiper Blades,
Cleaning” in the Index.
Spare Tire Check
At least twice a year, after the monthly inflation check of the spare tire determines that the spare is inflated to the correct tire inflation pressure, make sure that the spare tire is stored securely.
Engine Air Cleaner Filter Restriction
Indicator Check
Your vehicle has an indicator located on the air cleaner in the engine compartment that lets you know when the air cleaner filter is dirty and needs to be changed. Check indicator at least twice a year or when your engine oil is changed, whichever occurs first. See “Air Cleaner” in the Index for more information. Inspect your air cleaner filter restriction indicator more often if the vehicle is used in dusty areas or under off road conditions.
Weatherstrip Lubrication
Silicone grease on weatherstrips will make them last longer, seal better, and not stick or squeak. Apply silicone grease with a clean cloth. During very cold, damp weather more frequent application may be required. See “Recommended Fluids and Lubricants” in the Index.
Manual Transmission Check
Check the transmission fluid level; add if needed. See
“Manual Transmission Fluid” in the Index. Check for leaks. A fluid leak is the only reason for fluid loss. Have the system inspected and repaired if needed.
7-46
Automatic Transmission Check
Check the transmission fluid level; add if needed. See
“Automatic Transmission Fluid” in the Index. A fluid loss may indicate a problem. Check the system and repair if needed.
Hydraulic Clutch System Check
Check the fluid level in the clutch reservoir. See
“Hydraulic Clutch Fluid” in the Index. A fluid loss in this system could indicate a problem. Have the system inspected and repaired at once.
At Least Once a Year
Key Lock Cylinders Service
Lubricate the key lock cylinders with the lubricant specified in Part D.
Body Lubrication Service
Lubricate all body hood and body door hinges, latches, locks and folding seat hardware. Part D tells you what to use. More frequent lubrication may be required when exposed to a corrosive environment.
Starter Switch Check
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, the vehicle could move suddenly. If it does, you or others could be injured. Follow the steps below.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room around the vehicle.
2. Firmly apply both the parking brake and the regular brake. See “Parking Brake” in the Index if necessary.
NOTE: Do not use the accelerator pedal, and be ready to turn off the engine immediately if it starts.
3. On automatic transmission vehicles, try to start the engine in each gear. The starter should work only in
PARK (P) or NEUTRAL (N). If the starter works in any other position, your vehicle needs service.
On manual transmission vehicles, put the shift lever in NEUTRAL (N), push the clutch down halfway and try to start the engine. The starter should work only when the clutch is pushed down all the way to the floor. If the starter works when the clutch isn’t pushed all the way down, your vehicle needs service.
7-47
Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control
System Check
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, the vehicle could move suddenly. If it does, you or others could be injured. Follow the steps below.
1. Before you start, be sure you have enough room around the vehicle. It should be parked on a level surface.
2. Firmly apply the parking brake. See “Parking Brake” in the Index if necessary.
NOTE: Be ready to apply the regular brake immediately if the vehicle begins to move.
3. With the engine off, turn the key to the RUN position, but don’t start the engine. Without applying the regular brake, try to move the shift lever out of
PARK (P) with normal effort. If the shift lever moves out of PARK (P), your vehicle needs service.
Ignition Transmission Lock Check
While parked, and with the parking brake set, try to turn the ignition key to LOCK in each shift lever position.
D With an automatic transmission, the key should turn to LOCK only when the shift lever is in PARK (P).
D With a manual transmission, the key should turn to
LOCK only when you press the key release button.
On all vehicles, the key should come out only in LOCK.
7-48
Parking Brake and Automatic Transmission
PARK (P) Mechanism Check
CAUTION:
When you are doing this check, your vehicle could begin to move. You or others could be injured and property could be damaged. Make sure there is room in front of your vehicle in case it begins to roll. Be ready to apply the regular brake at once should the vehicle begin to move.
Park on a fairly steep hill, with the vehicle facing downhill. Keeping your foot on the regular brake, set the parking brake.
D To check the parking brake’s holding ability:
With the engine running and transmission in
NEUTRAL (N), slowly remove foot pressure from the regular brake pedal. Do this until the vehicle is held by the parking brake only.
D To check the PARK (P) mechanism’s holding ability: With the engine running, shift to PARK (P).
Then release the parking brake followed by the regular brake.
Underbody Flushing Service
At least every spring, use plain water to flush any corrosive materials from the underbody. Take care to clean thoroughly any areas where mud and other debris can collect.
7-49
Part C: Periodic
Maintenance Inspections
Listed in this part are inspections and services which should be performed at least twice a year (for instance, each spring and fall). You should let your dealer’s
service department or other qualified service center do these jobs. Make sure any necessary repairs are completed at once.
Proper procedures to perform these services may be found in a service manual. See “Service and Owner
Publications” in the Index.
Steering and Suspension Inspection
Inspect the front and rear suspension and steering system for damaged, loose or missing parts, signs of wear or lack of lubrication. Inspect the power steering lines and hoses for proper hook
up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc.
Exhaust System Inspection
Inspect the complete exhaust system. Inspect the body near the exhaust system. Look for broken, damaged, missing or out
of
position parts as well as open seams, holes, loose connections or other conditions which could cause a heat build
up in the floor pan or could let exhaust fumes into the vehicle. See “Engine Exhaust” in the Index.
Engine Cooling System Inspection
Inspect the hoses and have them replaced if they are cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Inspect all pipes, fittings and clamps; replace as needed. Clean the outside of the radiator and air conditioning condenser.
To help ensure proper operation, a pressure test of the cooling system and pressure cap is recommended at least once a year.
7-50
Throttle System Inspection
(Gasoline Engine)
Inspect the throttle system for interference or binding, and for damaged or missing parts. Replace parts as needed. Replace any components that have high effort or excessive wear. Do not lubricate accelerator and cruise control cables.
Brake System Inspection
Inspect the complete system. Inspect brake lines and hoses for proper hook
up, binding, leaks, cracks, chafing, etc. Inspect disc brake pads for wear and rotors for surface condition. Inspect other brake parts, including calipers, parking brake, etc. Check parking brake adjustment. You may need to have your brakes inspected more often if your driving habits or conditions result in frequent braking.
7-51
Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
NOTE: Fluids and lubricants identified below by name, part number or specification may be obtained from your dealer.
USAGE
Engine Oil
(Gasoline Engine)
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Engine oil with the American
Petroleum Institute Certified for
Gasoline Engines starburst symbol of the proper viscosity. To determine the preferred viscosity for your vehicle’s engine, see
“Engine Oil” in the Index.
USAGE
Engine Oil
(Diesel Engine)
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Engine oil with the letters CH
-
4 or CG
-
4 is best for your vehicle.
The CH
-
4 or CG
-
4 designation may appear either alone, or in combination with other API designations, such as API
CH
-
4/SJ, CG
-
4/SH or
CH
-
4/CG
-
4/SJ. These letters show
American Petroleum Institute
(API) levels of quality. To determine the preferred viscosity for your vehicle’s diesel engine, see “Engine Oil” in the Index.
Engine Coolant 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and use only GM
Goodwrench
Havoline
R
R
DEX
DEX
-
-
COOL
COOL
R
R
or
Coolant. See “Engine Coolant” in the Index.
7-52
USAGE
Hydraulic
Brake System
Windshield
Washer Solvent
Hydraulic
Clutch System
Parking Brake
Cable Guides
Power
Steering System
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Delco Supreme 11
R
Brake Fluid
(GM Part No. 12377967 or equivalent DOT
-
3 brake fluid).
GM Optikleen
R
Washer
Solvent (GM Part No. 1051515) or equivalent.
Hydraulic Clutch Fluid (GM Part
No. 12345347 or equivalent
DOT
-
3 brake fluid).
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2, Category LB or GC
-
LB.
GM Power Steering Fluid (GM
Part No. 1052884
-
1 pint,
1050017
-
1 quart, or equivalent).
USAGE
Manual
Transmission
Automatic
Transmission
Key Lock
Cylinders
Floor Shift
Linkage
Chassis
Lubrication
FLUID/LUBRICANT
GM Goodwrench Synthetic
Manual Transmission Fluid
(GM Part No. 12346190
-
1 qt.) or equivalent SAE 75W
-
85 GL
-
4 gear oil.
DEXRON
R
-
III Automatic
Transmission Fluid.
Multi
-
Purpose Lubricant,
Superlube
R
(GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Lubriplate
R
Lubricant Aerosol
(GM Part No. 12346293 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2
Category LB or GC
-
LB.
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2, Category LB or GC
-
LB.
7-53
USAGE FLUID/LUBRICANT
Front
Wheel Bearings
Rear Axle
Wheel bearing lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2,
Category GC or GC
-
LB (GM Part
No. 1051344 or equivalent).
SAE 75W
-
140 Synthetic Axle
Lubricant (GM Part No. 12346140 or equivalent).
Rear Driveline
Center Splines
Hood Latch
Assembly,
Secondary Latch,
Pivots, Spring
Anchor and
Release Pawl
Chassis Lubricant (GM Part
No. 12377985 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2, Category LB or GC
-
LB.
Lubriplate
R
Lubricant Aerosol
(GM Part No. 12346293 or equivalent) or lubricant meeting requirements of NLGI # 2,
Category LB or GC
-
LB.
USAGE
Hood and
Door Hinges
Body Door
Hinge Pins and Folding
Seat Hinge
Weatherstrip
Conditioning
Weatherstrip
Squeaks
FLUID/LUBRICANT
Multi
-
Purpose Lubricant,
Superlube
R
(GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Multi
-
Purpose Lubricant,
Superlube
R
(GM Part
No. 12346241 or equivalent).
Dielectric Silicone Grease (GM
Part No. 12345579 or equivalent).
Synthetic Grease with Teflon,
Superlube
R
(GM Part
No. 12371287 or equivalent).
7-54
Part E: Maintenance Record
After the scheduled services are performed, record the date, odometer reading and who performed the service in the boxes provided after the maintenance interval. Any additional information from “Owner Checks and Services” or
“Periodic Maintenance” can be added on the following record pages. Also, you should retain all maintenance receipts.
Your owner information portfolio is a convenient place to store them.
Maintenance Record
DATE
ODOMETER
READING SERVICED BY MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
7-55
DATE
ODOMETER
READING
Maintenance Record
SERVICED BY MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
7-56
DATE
ODOMETER
READING
Maintenance Record
SERVICED BY MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
7-57
DATE
ODOMETER
READING
Maintenance Record
SERVICED BY MAINTENANCE PERFORMED
7-58
Section 8 Customer Assistance Information
Here you will find out how to contact GMC if you need assistance. This section also tells you how to obtain service publications and how to report any safety defects.
Customer Satisfaction Procedure
Customer Assistance for Text Telephone
(TTY) Users
Customer Assistance Offices
GM Mobility Program for Persons with Disabilities
Roadside Assistance
Canadian Roadside Assistance
Courtesy Transportation
Warranty Information
Reporting Safety Defects to the United
States Government
Reporting Safety Defects to the
Canadian Government
Reporting Safety Defects to General Motors
8-
8-1
Customer Satisfaction Procedure
Your satisfaction and goodwill are important to your dealer and to GMC. Normally, any concerns with the sales transaction or the operation of your vehicle will be resolved by your dealer’s sales or service departments.
Sometimes, however, despite the best intentions of all concerned, misunderstandings can occur. If your concern has not been resolved to your satisfaction, the following steps should be taken:
STEP ONE -- Discuss your concern with a member of dealership management. Normally, concerns can be quickly resolved at that level. If the matter has already been reviewed with the sales, service or parts manager, contact the owner of the dealership or the general manager.
8-2
STEP TWO -- If after contacting a member of dealership management, it appears your concern cannot be resolved by the dealership without further help, contact the GMC Consumer Relations Manager by calling
1-800-GMC-8782 (1-800-462-8782, Customer Assistance prompt). In Canada, contact GM of Canada Customer
Communication Centre in Oshawa by calling
1-800-263-3777 (English) or 1-800-263-7854 (French).
We encourage you to call the toll-free number in order to give your inquiry prompt attention. Please have the following information available to give the Customer
Assistance Representative:
D Vehicle Identification Number (This is available from the vehicle registration or title, or the plate at the top left of the instrument panel and visible through the windshield.)
D Dealership name and location
D Vehicle delivery date and present mileage
When contacting GMC, please remember that your concern will likely be resolved at a dealer’s facility.
That is why we suggest you follow Step One first if you have a concern.
STEP THREE -- Both General Motors and your dealer are committed to making sure you are completely satisfied with your new vehicle. However, if you continue to remain unsatisfied after following the procedure outlined in Steps One and Two, you should file with the GM/BBB Auto Line Program to enforce any additional rights you may have. Canadian owners refer to your Warranty and Owner Assistance
Information booklet for information on the Canadian
Motor Vehicle Arbitration Plan (CAMVAP).
8-3
The BBB Auto Line Program is an out of court program administered by the Council of Better Business Bureaus to settle automotive disputes regarding vehicle repairs or the interpretation of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
Although you may be required to resort to this informal dispute resolution program prior to filing a court action, use of the program is free of charge and your case will generally be heard within 40 days. If you do not agree with the decision given in your case, you may reject it and proceed with any other venue for relief available to you.
You may contact the BBB using the toll
free telephone number or write them at the following address:
BBB Auto Line
Council of Better Business Bureaus, Inc.
4200 Wilson Boulevard
Suite 800
Arlington, VA 22203
-
1804
Telephone: 1
-
800
-
955
-
5100
This program is available in all 50 states and the District of Columbia. Eligibility is limited by vehicle age, mileage and other factors. General Motors reserves the right to change eligibility limitations and/or discontinue its participation in this program.
Customer Assistance for Text
Telephone (TTY) Users
To assist customers who are deaf, hard of hearing, or speech
impaired and who use Text Telephones
(TTYs), GMC has TTY equipment available at its Customer Assistance Center. Any TTY user can communicate with GMC by dialing:
1
-
800
-
GMC
-
8583 (462-8583). (TTY users in
Canada can dial 1
-
800
-
263
-
3830.)
Customer Assistance Offices
GMC encourages customers to call the toll-free number for assistance. If a U.S. customer wishes to write to GMC, the letter should be addressed to GMC’s Customer
Assistance Center.
United States
Pontiac-GMC Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 33172
Detroit, MI 48232-5172
1-800-GMC-8782 (462-8782)
1-800-GMC-8583 (462-8583) (For Text
Telephone devices (TTYs))
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-GMC-8782 (462-8782)
8-4
From:
Puerto Rico: 1-800-496-9992 (English)
1-800-496-9993 (Spanish)
1-800-496-9994 U.S. Virgin Islands:
Fax Number: 313-381-0022
Canada
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
1-800-263-3777 (English)
1-800-263-7854 (French)
1-800-263-3830 (For Text Telephone devices (TTYs))
Roadside Assistance: 1-800-268-6800
Mexico, Central America and Caribbean
Islands/Countries (Except Puerto Rico and
U.S. Virgin Islands)
General Motors de Mexico, S. de R.L. de C.V.
Customer Assistance Center
Paseo de la Reforma # 2740
Col. Lomas de Bezares
C.P. 11910, Mexico, D.F.
01-800-508-0000
Long Distance: 011-52 - 53 29 0 800
GM Mobility Program for Persons with Disabilities
This program, available to qualified applicants, can reimburse you up to $1,000 toward aftermarket driver or passenger adaptive equipment you may require for your vehicle (hand controls, wheelchair/scooter lifts, etc.).
This program can also provide you with free resource information, such as area driver assessment centers and mobility equipment installers. The program is available for a limited period of time from the date of vehicle purchase/lease. See your dealer for more details or call the GM Mobility Assistance Center at 1
Text telephone (TTY) users, call 1
-
800
-
323
-
9935.
-
800
-
833
-
9935.
GM of Canada also has a Mobility Program. Call
1
-
800
-
GM
-
DRIVE (463
-
7483) for details. When calling from outside Canada, please dial 1
-
905
-
644
-
3063.
All TTY users call 1
-
800
-
263
-
3830.
8-5
Roadside Assistance
GMC’s Roadside Assistance provides stranded owners with over
the
phone roadside repairs, location of the nearest GMC dealer or the following special services:
Flat Tire Change: Installation of spare tire will be covered at no charge (customer is responsible for repair or replacement of tire).
Fuel Delivery: Delivery of enough fuel for the customer to get to the nearest service station (up to $5.00) will be covered.
Jump Start: No
start situations which require a battery jump start will be covered at no charge.
Lock Out: Replacement keys or locksmith service will be covered at no charge if you are unable to gain entry into your vehicle. Delivery of the replacement key will be covered at no charge within 10 miles (16 km).
Emergency Towing Service: Towing to the nearest
GMC dealer for warranty related disablements will be covered.
Trip Routing: Custom
made, computerized highlighted maps using the most direct or scenic route are provided free of charge. Maps include points of interest and a list of GMC dealers along the route. Also included is a list of hotels along the route that are discounted through affiliation with “Quest International.” Trip Routing is available through Roadside Assistance by calling
1
-
800
-
GMC
-
8782 (462-8782). Please be prepared to provide your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).
Allow five working days for fulfillment.
8-6
Trip Interruption Assistance: GMC will reimburse any reasonable trip interruption expenses (up to $500.00) when directly associated with warranty disablement.
Trip Interruption service covers expenses such as meals and overnight lodging if vehicle disablement occurs at least 150 miles (240 km) from your home or rental property. You will be required to obtain prior approval from GMC Roadside Assistance and pay for expenses at the time of disablement. Original receipts should be submitted to GMC Roadside Assistance for reimbursement. A service representative will provide assistance when you call.
The Roadside Assistance services listed are available to retail and retail lease customers operating 2001 GMC light duty trucks for a period of 3 years/36,000 miles
(60 000 km). All services must be pre
arranged by
GMC Roadside Assistance.
Over
the
phone assistance, such as providing the name of the closest dealer or minor technical advice, etc., is available to all owner/operators of GMC trucks, regardless of vehicle or mileage.
Just dial GMC Roadside Assistance at
1
-
800
-
GMC
-
8782 (1
-
800
-
462
-
8782, Roadside
Assistance prompt) to reach a qualified representative who can assist you. Text telephone (TTY) users, call 1
-
888
-
889
-
2438.
Your Roadside Assistance representative will ask for the following information when your call is received:
D Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
D Name and home address
D Telephone number and location from which you are calling
D Location, license plate number and color of your
GMC truck
D Mileage of vehicle and description of problem
Roadside Assistance is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year, including weekends and holidays. Should you have any questions about roadside assistance, call the GMC Roadside Assistance Center or contact your dealer.
Roadside Assistance is not part of or included in the coverage provided by the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
GMC reserves the right to make any changes or discontinue the Roadside Assistance program at any time without notification.
Canadian Roadside Assistance
Vehicles purchased in Canada have an extensive
Roadside Assistance program accessible from anywhere in Canada or the United States. Please refer to the separate brochure provided by the dealer or call
1
-
800
-
268
-
6800 for emergency services.
8-7
Courtesy Transportation
GMC has always exemplified quality and value in its offering of motor vehicles. To enhance your ownership experience, we and our participating dealers are proud to offer Courtesy Transportation, a customer support program for new vehicles.
The Courtesy Transportation program is offered to retail purchase/lease customers in conjunction with the Bumper
to
-
Bumper coverage provided by the
New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Several transportation options are available when warranty repairs are required. This will reduce your inconvenience during warranty repairs.
Plan Ahead When Possible
When your vehicle requires warranty service, you should contact your dealer and request an appointment.
By scheduling a service appointment and advising your service consultant of your transportation needs, your dealer can help minimize your inconvenience. If your vehicle cannot be scheduled into the service department immediately, keep driving it until it can be scheduled for service, unless, of course, the problem is safety
related.
If it is, please call your dealership, let them know this, and ask for instructions.
If the dealer requests that you simply drop the vehicle off for service, you are urged to do so as early in the work day as possible to allow for same day repair.
Transportation Options
Warranty service can generally be completed while you wait. However, if you are unable to wait GMC helps minimize your inconvenience by providing several transportation options. Depending on the circumstances, your dealer can offer you one of the following:
Shuttle Service
Participating dealers can provide you with shuttle service to get you to your destination with minimal interruption of your daily schedule. This includes a one way shuttle ride to a destination up to 10 miles from the dealership.
Public Transportation or Fuel Reimbursement
If your vehicle requires overnight warranty repairs, reimbursement up to $30 per day (five days maximum) may be available for the use of public transportation such as taxi or bus. In addition, should you arrange transportation through a friend or relative, reimbursement for reasonable fuel expenses up to
$10 per day (five day maximum) may be available.
Claim amounts should reflect actual costs and be supported by original receipts.
8-8
Courtesy Rental Vehicle
When your vehicle is unavailable due to overnight warranty repairs, your dealer may arrange to provide you with a courtesy rental vehicle or reimburse you for a rental vehicle you obtained, at actual cost, up to a maximum of $30.00 per day supported by receipts.
This requires that you sign and complete a rental agreement and meet state, local and rental vehicle provider requirements. Requirements vary and may include minimum age requirements, insurance coverage, credit card, etc. You are responsible for fuel usage charges and may also be responsible for taxes, levies, usage fees, excessive mileage or rental usage beyond the completion of the repair.
Generally it is not possible to provide a like
vehicle as a courtesy rental.
Additional Program Information
Courtesy Transportation is available during the
Bumper
to
-
Bumper warranty coverage period, but it is not part of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.
A separate booklet entitled “Warranty and Owner
Assistance Information” furnished with each new vehicle provides detailed warranty coverage information.
Courtesy Transportation is available only at participating dealers and all program options, such as shuttle service, may not be available at every dealer.
Please contact your dealer for specific information about availability. All Courtesy Transportation arrangements will be administered by appropriate dealer personnel.
Canadian Vehicles: For warranty repairs during the Complete Vehicle Coverage period of the General
Motors of Canada New Vehicle Limited Warranty, alternative transportation may be available under the
Courtesy Transportation Program. Please consult your dealer for details.
General Motors reserves the right to unilaterally modify, change or discontinue Courtesy Transportation at any time and to resolve all questions of claim eligibility pursuant to the terms and conditions described herein at its sole discretion.
Warranty Information
Your vehicle comes with a separate warranty booklet that contains detailed warranty information.
8-9
REPORTING SAFETY
DEFECTS TO THE UNITED
STATES GOVERNMENT
If you believe that your vehicle has a defect which could cause a crash or could cause injury or death, you should immediately inform the National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA), in addition to notifying General Motors.
If NHTSA receives similar complaints, it may open an investigation, and if it finds that a safety defect exists in a group of vehicles, it may order a recall and remedy campaign. However, NHTSA cannot become involved in individual problems between you, your dealer or
General Motors.
To contact NHTSA, you may either call the Auto Safety
Hotline toll
free at 1
-
800
-
424
-
9393 (or 366
-
0123 in the
Washington, D.C. area) or write to:
NHTSA, U.S. Department of Transportation
Washington, D.C. 20590
You can also obtain other information about motor vehicle safety from the hotline.
REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS TO
THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT
If you live in Canada, and you believe that your vehicle has a safety defect, you should immediately notify
Transport Canada, in addition to notifying General
Motors of Canada Limited. You may write to:
Transport Canada
330 Sparks Street
Tower C
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0N5
8-10
REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS
TO GENERAL MOTORS
In addition to notifying NHTSA (or Transport Canada) in a situation like this, we certainly hope you’ll notify us. Please call us at 1
-
800
-
GMC
-
8782
(1
-
800
-
462
-
8782), or write:
Pontiac-GMC Customer Assistance Center
P.O. Box 33172
Detroit, MI 48232
-
5172
In Canada, please call us at 1
-
800
-
263
-
3777 (English) or 1
-
800
-
263
-
7854 (French). Or, write:
General Motors of Canada Limited
Customer Communication Centre, 163-005
1908 Colonel Sam Drive
Oshawa, Ontario L1H 8P7
8-11
2001 GMC SERVICE PUBLICATIONS ORDERING INFORMATION
The following publications covering the operation and servicing of your vehicle can be purchased by filling out the Service Publication Order Form in this book and mailing it in with your check, money order, or credit card information to Helm, Incorporated (address below.)
CURRENT PUBLICATIONS FOR 2001 GMC
SERVICE MANUALS
Service Manuals have the diagnosis and repair information on engines, transmission, axle, suspension, brakes, electrical, steering, body, etc.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $120.00
OWNER’S INFORMATION
Owner publications are written directly for Owners and intended to provide basic operational information about the vehicle. The owner’s manual will include the Maintenance
Schedule for all models.
TRANSMISSION, TRANSAXLE, TRANSFER CASE
UNIT REPAIR MANUAL
This manual provides information on unit repair service procedures, adjustments and specifications for the
2001 GM transmissions, transaxles and transfer cases.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $50.00
In-Portfolio: Includes a Portfolio, Owner’s Manual and
Warranty Booklet.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $20.00
Without Portfolio: Owner’s Manual only.
RETAIL SELL PRICE: $15.00
SERVICE BULLETINS
Service Bulletins give technical service information needed to knowledgeably service General Motors cars and trucks.
Each bulletin contains instructions to assist in the diagnosis and service of your vehicle.
CURRENT & PAST MODEL ORDER FORMS
Service Publications are available for current and past model GM vehicles. To request an order form, please specify year and model name of the vehicle.
PLEASE COMPLETE THE ORDER FORM SHOWN ON
THE FOLLOWING PAGE AND MAIL TO:
Helm, Incorporated
S
P.O. Box 07130
S
Detroit, MI 48207
8-12
OR ORDER TOLL FREE: 1-800-551-4123
Monday-Friday 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM Eastern Time
Visit Helm, Inc. on the World Wide Web at: www.helminc.com
For Credit Card Orders Only (VISA–MasterCard–Discover)
0
1
2
0
ORDER TOLL FREE
(NOTE: For Credit Card Holders Only)
1-800-551-4123
(Monday-Friday 8:00 AM – 6:00 PM EST)
FAX Orders Only 1-313-865-5927
Orders will be mailed within 10 days of receipt. Please allow adequate time for postal service. If further information is needed, write to the address shown below or call
1-800-551-4123. Material cannot be returned for credit without packing slip with return information within 30 days of delivery. On returns, a re-stocking fee may be applied against the original order.
ITEM DESCRIPTION
VEHICLE MODEL
NAME YEAR
QTY.
PRICE
EACH*
TOTAL
PRICE
2001 $120.00
Service Manual
Car & Light Truck
Transmission Unit Repair
2001 $50.00
Owner’s Manual In Portfolio 2001 $20.00
Owner’s Manual Without Portfolio 2001 $15.00
G
M
S
H
I
P
T
O
NOTE: Dealers and Companies please provide dealer or company name, and also the name of the person to whose attention the shipment should be sent.
Mail completed order form to:
HELM, INCORPORATED
S
P.O. Box 07130
S
Detroit, MI 48207
For purchases outside U.S.A. please write to the above address for quotation.
(CUSTOMER’S NAME)
(STREET ADDRESS—NO P.O. BOX NUMBERS)
(CITY)
(ATTENTION)
DAYTIME TELEPHONE NO.
GM-GMC-ORD99
(ZIP CODE) (STATE)
( )
AREA CODE
*(Prices are subject to change without notice and without incurring obligation. Allow ample time for delivery.)
P
A
Y
M
E
N
T
Check or Money
Order payable to
Helm, Inc. (USA funds only — do not send cash.)
MasterCard
VISA
Discover
Account
Number:
Expiration
Date mo/yr:
TOTAL MATERIAL
Michigan Purchasers add 6% sales tax
U.S. Order Processing
Canadian Postage
GRAND TOTAL
$6.00
Check here if your billing address is different from your shipping address shown.
CUSTOMER SIGNATURE
Note to Canadian Customers: All listed prices are quoted in U.S. funds. Canadian residents are to make checks payable in U.S. funds.
8-13
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Table of contents
- 1 2001 GMC Sierra 3500HD Owner's Manual
- 2 24-hour Roadside Assistance
- 3 Copyright General Motors Corp. 2000
- 4 Table of Contents:
- 4 1. Seats and Restraint System
- 4 2. Features and Controls
- 5 3. Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
- 5 4. Your Driving and the Road
- 5 5. Problems on the Road
- 6 6. Service and Appearance Care
- 6 7. Maintenance Schedule
- 7 8. Customer Assistance Information
- 8 For Canadian Owners Who Prefer a French Language Manual:
- 9 How to Use this Manual
- 9 Safety Warnings and Symbols
- 10 Vehicle Damage Warnings
- 11 Vehicle Symbols
- 12 Model Reference
- 13 Service Station Guide
- 14 Section 1 Seats and Restraint Systems
- 15 Seats and Seat Controls
- 15 Manual Front Seat
- 16 Power Lumbar Control (If Equipped) Reclining Seatbacks
- 18 Head Restraints
- 18 Seatback Latches
- 19 Safety Belts: They re for Everyone
- 20 Why Safety Belts Work
- 23 Here Are Questions Many People Ask About Safety Belts and the Answers
- 24 How to Wear Safety Belts Properly
- 24 Adults
- 24 Driver Position
- 24 Lap-Shoulder Belt
- 26 Shoulder Belt Height Adjuster
- 32 Safety Belt Use During Pregnancy
- 33 Right Front Passenger Position
- 33 Center Passenger Position
- 33 Lap Belt
- 34 Children
- 34 Infants and Young Children
- 37 Restraint Systems for Children
- 40 Where to Put the Restraint
- 40 Top Strap
- 41 Securing a Child Restraint in a Center Seat Position
- 43 Securing a Child Restraint in the Right Front Seat Position
- 46 Older Children
- 49 Safety Belt Extender
- 49 Checking Your Restraint Systems
- 49 Replacing Restraint System Parts After a Crash
- 50 Section 2 Features and Controls
- 51 Windows
- 51 Manual Windows
- 52 Power Windows (If Equipped)
- 53 Keys
- 54 Door Locks
- 55 Power Door Locks (If Equipped)
- 55 Leaving Your Vehicle
- 56 Keyless Entry System (If Equipped)
- 57 Operation
- 57 Matching Transmitter(s) to Your Vehicle
- 58 Battery Replacement
- 59 Resynchronization
- 59 Theft
- 59 Key in the Ignition
- 59 Parking at Night
- 59 Parking Lots
- 60 Passlock
- 60 New Vehicle Break-In
- 61 Ignition Positions
- 62 Key Release Button (Manual Transmission)
- 62 Starting Your Gasoline Engine
- 62 Automatic Transmission
- 63 Manual Transmission
- 64 Engine Coolant Heater (If Equipped)
- 64 To Use the Engine Coolant Heater
- 65 Automatic Transmission Operation
- 68 Manual Transmission Operation
- 68 5-Speed
- 70 Shift Speeds
- 70 Up Shift Light
- 71 Parking Brake
- 72 Shifting Into PARK (P) (Automatic Transmission Only)
- 73 Leaving Your Vehicle With the Engine Running (Automatic Transmission Only)
- 74 Torque Lock (Automatic Transmission)
- 74 Shifting Out of PARK (P) (Automatic Transmission Only)
- 75 Parking Your Vehicle (Manual Transmission Models Only)
- 75 Parking Over Things That Burn
- 76 Engine Exhaust
- 76 Running Your Engine While You re Parked (Automatic Transmission)
- 77 Horn
- 77 Tilt Wheel (If Equipped)
- 78 Turn Signal/Multifunction Lever
- 78 Turn and Lane Change Signals
- 79 Headlamp High/Low-Beam Changer
- 79 Windshield Wipers
- 80 Windshield Washer
- 80 Cruise Control (If Equipped)
- 81 Setting Cruise Control
- 82 Resuming a Set Speed
- 82 Increasing Speed While Using Cruise Control
- 82 Reducing Speed While Using Cruise Control
- 82 Passing Another Vehicle While Using Cruise Control
- 83 Using Cruise Control on Hills
- 83 Ending Cruise Control
- 83 Erasing Speed Memory
- 83 Exterior Lamps
- 84 Headlamps On Reminder
- 84 Daytime Running Lamps
- 85 Interior Lamps
- 85 Instrument Panel Intensity Control
- 85 Illuminated Entry
- 85 Front Reading Lamps (If Equipped)
- 86 Dome Lamp
- 86 Cargo Lamp (If Equipped)
- 87 Mirrors
- 87 Inside Day/Night Rearview Mirror
- 87 Outside Manual Adjust Mirrors
- 87 Camper-Type Outside Mirrors (If Equipped)
- 89 West Coast-Type Outside Mirrors (If Equipped)
- 89 Convex Outside Mirror
- 90 Storage Compartments
- 90 Glove Box
- 90 Instrument Panel Cupholder
- 91 Armrest Storage Compartment (If Equipped)
- 91 Ashtrays and Cigarette Lighter
- 92 Accessory Power Outlets
- 92 Sun Visors
- 93 Instrument Panel Your Information System
- 95 Instrument Panel Cluster
- 96 Speedometer and Odometer
- 96 Tamper- Resistant Odometer
- 96 Trip Odometer
- 96 Tachometer
- 97 Warning Lights, Gages and Indicators
- 97 Safety Belt Reminder Light
- 98 Charging System Indicator Light
- 98 Voltmeter
- 99 Brake System Warning Light
- 100 Anti-Lock Brake System Warning Light
- 100 Engine Coolant Temperature Gage
- 101 Malfunction Indicator Lamp (Service Engine Soon Light in the United States or Check Engine Light in Canada) (Gasoline Engine)
- 102 If the Light Is Flashing
- 103 If the Light Is On Steady
- 103 Emissions Inspection and Maintenance Programs
- 104 Reduced Engine Power
- 104 Oil Pressure Gage
- 105 Security Light
- 106 Up Shift Light (If Equipped)
- 106 Daytime Running Lamps Indicator Light
- 106 Check Gages Light
- 107 Fuel Gage
- 108 Section 3 Comfort Controls and Audio Systems
- 109 Comfort Controls
- 109 Heater Control System
- 109 Fan Knob
- 109 Temperature Knob
- 109 Mode Knob
- 110 Heater and Air Conditioning Control System (If Equipped)
- 110 Fan Knob
- 110 Temperature Knob
- 110 Mode Knob
- 111 Air Conditioning
- 111 Heating
- 111 Defogging and Defrosting
- 112 Ventilation System
- 113 Ventilation Tips
- 113 Audio Systems
- 113 Setting the Clock
- 114 AM-FM Stereo
- 114 Playing the Radio
- 114 Finding a Station
- 115 Setting the Tone
- 115 Adjusting the Speakers
- 116 AM-FM Stereo with Cassette Tape Player (If Equipped)
- 116 Playing the Radio
- 116 Finding a Station
- 117 Setting the Tone
- 117 Adjusting the Speakers
- 118 Playing a Cassette Tape
- 118 CD Adapter Kits
- 119 Understanding Radio Reception
- 119 AM
- 119 FM Stereo
- 119 Tips About Your Audio System
- 120 Care of Your Cassette Tape Player
- 121 Fixed Mast Antenna
- 122 Section 4 Your Driving and the Road
- 123 Defensive Driving
- 124 Drunken Driving
- 127 Control of a Vehicle
- 127 Braking
- 128 Anti-Lock Brakes (ABS)
- 130 Using Anti- Lock
- 130 Braking in Emergencies
- 130 Steering
- 130 Power Steering
- 130 Steering Tips
- 130 Driving on Curves
- 131 Steering in Emergencies
- 132 Off-Road Recovery
- 133 Passing
- 134 Loss of Control
- 134 Skidding
- 135 Driving at Night
- 137 Driving in Rain and on Wet Roads
- 138 Hydroplaning
- 139 Driving Through Deep Standing Water
- 139 Driving Through Flowing Water
- 139 Some Other Rainy Weather Tips
- 140 City Driving
- 141 Freeway Driving
- 142 Before Leaving on a Long Trip
- 143 Highway Hypnosis
- 143 Hill and Mountain Roads
- 145 Winter Driving
- 145 Driving on Snow or Ice
- 147 If You re Caught in a Blizzard
- 149 Recreational Vehicle Towing
- 150 Loading Your Vehicle
- 152 Towing a Trailer
- 153 If You Do Decide To Pull A Trailer
- 153 Weight of the Trailer
- 154 Weight of the Trailer Tongue
- 155 Total Weight on Your Vehicle s Tires
- 155 Hitches
- 155 Safety Chains
- 155 Trailer Brakes
- 156 Driving with a Trailer
- 156 Following Distance
- 156 Passing
- 157 Backing Up
- 157 Making Turns
- 157 Turn Signals When Towing a Trailer
- 157 Driving On Grades
- 158 Parking on Hills
- 159 When You Are Ready to Leave After Parking on a Hill
- 159 Maintenance When Trailer Towing
- 159 Power Winches
- 160 Power Take-Off (PTO) (Manual Transmission) (If Equipped)
- 163 Section 5 Problems on the Road
- 164 Hazard Warning Flashers
- 164 Other Warning Devices
- 165 Jump Starting
- 170 Towing Your Vehicle
- 170 Engine Overheating (Gasoline Engine)
- 170 Overheated Engine Protection Operating Mode
- 171 If Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
- 172 If No Steam Is Coming From Your Engine
- 173 Cooling System (Gasoline Engine)
- 175 How to Add Coolant to the Coolant Recovery Tank (Gasoline Engines)
- 178 How to Add Coolant to the Radiator
- 181 Engine Fan Noise
- 181 If a Tire Goes Flat
- 182 Changing a Flat Tire
- 183 If You re Stuck: In Sand, Mud, Ice or Snow
- 183 Rocking Your Vehicle To Get It Out
- 184 Section 6 Service and Appearance Care
- 185 Service
- 185 Doing Your Own Service Work
- 186 Adding Equipment to the Outside of Your Vehicle
- 186 Fuel (Gasoline Engine)
- 188 Fuels in Foreign Countries (Gasoline Engines)
- 188 Filling Your Tank (Gasoline Engine)
- 190 Filling a Portable Fuel Container
- 190 Checking Things Under the Hood
- 191 Hood Release
- 192 Engine Compartment Overview
- 193 Noise Control System
- 193 Tampering With Noise Control System Prohibited
- 194 Engine Oil (Gasoline Engine)
- 194 Checking Engine Oil
- 194 When to Add Engine Oil
- 195 What Kind of Engine Oil to Use
- 197 Engine Oil Additives
- 197 When to Change Engine Oil
- 197 What to Do with Used Oil
- 198 Engine Air Cleaner/Filter (Gasoline Engines)
- 200 Automatic Transmission Fluid
- 200 When to Check and Change
- 200 How to Check
- 201 Checking the Fluid Level
- 203 How to Add Fluid
- 203 Manual Transmission Fluid
- 203 When to Check
- 203 How to Check
- 204 How to Add Fluid
- 204 Hydraulic Clutch
- 205 When to Check and What to Use
- 205 How to Check and Add Fluid
- 205 Rear Axle
- 205 When to Check and Change Lubricant
- 206 How to Check Lubricant
- 206 What to Use
- 206 Engine Coolant
- 207 What to Use
- 208 Checking Coolant
- 209 Adding Coolant
- 210 Radiator Pressure Cap (Gasoline Engine)
- 210 Power Steering Fluid
- 210 When to Check Power Steering Fluid
- 211 How to Check Power Steering Fluid
- 211 What to Use
- 211 Windshield Washer Fluid
- 211 What to Use
- 211 Adding Washer Fluid
- 212 Brakes
- 212 Brake Fluid
- 213 Checking Brake Fluid
- 214 What to Add
- 215 Brake Wear
- 215 Brake Pedal Travel
- 215 Brake Adjustment
- 215 Replacing Brake System Parts
- 216 Battery
- 216 Vehicle Storage
- 216 Bulb Replacement
- 216 Halogen Bulbs
- 217 Headlamps
- 217 Sealed-Beam Headlamps
- 218 Composite Headlamps
- 219 Front Turn Signal Lamps (Sealed- Beam Headlamps)
- 220 Front Turn Signal Lamps (Composite Headlamps)
- 221 Front Sidemarker Lamps (Composite Headlamps)
- 222 Roof Marker Lamps
- 222 Taillamps
- 223 Windshield Wiper Blade Replacement
- 224 Tires
- 225 Inflation -- Tire Pressure
- 225 When to Check
- 225 How to Check
- 226 Tire Inspection and Rotation
- 228 When It s Time for New Tires
- 228 Dual Tire Operation
- 229 Tightening the Wheel Nuts
- 231 Buying New Tires
- 232 Wheel Alignment and Tire Balance
- 232 Wheel Replacement
- 233 Used Replacement Wheels
- 234 Tire Chains
- 234 Appearance Care
- 235 Cleaning the Inside of Your Vehicle
- 235 Cleaning of Fabric/Carpet
- 235 Using Multi-Purpose Interior Cleaner on Fabric
- 236 Special Fabric Cleaning Problems
- 236 Cleaning Vinyl
- 236 Cleaning the Top of the Instrument Panel
- 236 Cleaning Interior Plastic Components
- 237 Care of Safety Belts
- 237 Cleaning Glass Surfaces
- 237 Cleaning the Outside of the Windshield and Wiper Blades
- 237 Weatherstrips
- 238 Cleaning the Outside of Your Vehicle
- 238 Washing Your Vehicle
- 238 Cleaning Exterior Lamps/Lenses
- 238 Finish Care
- 239 Protecting Exterior Bright Metal Parts
- 239 Cleaning Tires
- 239 Sheet Metal Damage
- 240 Finish Damage
- 240 Underbody Maintenance
- 240 Chemical Paint Spotting
- 241 GM Vehicle Care/Appearance Materials
- 242 Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)
- 242 Engine Identification
- 242 Service Parts Identification Label
- 242 Electrical System
- 242 Add-On Electrical Equipment
- 243 Headlamps
- 243 Windshield Wipers
- 243 Power Windows and Other Power Options
- 243 Fuses and Circuit Breakers
- 244 Instrument Panel Fuse Block
- 246 Underhood Fuse/Relay Center
- 248 Replacement Bulbs
- 249 Capacities and Specifications
- 249 Wheels and Tires
- 249 Cooling System Capacity
- 249 Crankcase Capacity
- 249 Fuel Tank Capacity
- 250 Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
- 251 Section 7 Maintenance Schedule
- 252 Introduction
- 252 Your Vehicle and the Environment
- 252 Maintenance Requirements
- 253 How This Section is Organized
- 254 Part A: Scheduled Maintenance Services
- 254 Using Your Maintenance Schedule
- 254 Selecting the Right Schedule
- 255 Short Trip/City Definition Short Trip/City Intervals
- 256 Short Trip/City Intervals Short Trip/City Intervals
- 257 Long Trip/Highway Definition
- 258 Long Trip/Highway Intervals
- 259 Short Trip/City Scheduled Maintenance
- 259 Footnotes
- 281 Long Trip/Highway Scheduled Maintenance
- 281 Footnotes
- 295 Part B: Owner Checks and Services
- 295 At the First 100, 1,000 and 6,000 Miles (160, 1 600 and 10 000 km)
- 295 At Each Fuel Fill
- 295 Engine Oil Level Check
- 295 Engine Coolant Level Check
- 295 Windshield Washer Fluid Level Check
- 295 At Least Once a Month
- 295 Tire Inflation Check
- 295 Cassette Deck Service
- 296 At Least Twice a Year
- 296 Restraint System Check
- 296 Wiper Blade Check
- 296 Spare Tire Check
- 296 Engine Air Cleaner Filter Restriction Indicator Check
- 296 Weatherstrip Lubrication
- 296 Manual Transmission Check
- 297 Automatic Transmission Check
- 297 Hydraulic Clutch System Check
- 297 At Least Once a Year
- 297 Key Lock Cylinders Service
- 297 Body Lubrication Service
- 297 Starter Switch Check
- 298 Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control System Check
- 298 Ignition Transmission Lock Check
- 299 Parking Brake and Automatic Transmission PARK (P) Mechanism Check
- 299 Underbody Flushing Service
- 300 Part C: Periodic Maintenance Inspections
- 300 Steering and Suspension Inspection
- 300 Exhaust System Inspection
- 300 Engine Cooling System Inspection
- 301 Throttle System Inspection (Gasoline Engine)
- 301 Brake System Inspection
- 302 Part D: Recommended Fluids and Lubricants
- 305 Part E: Maintenance Record
- 309 Section 8 Customer Assistance Information
- 310 Customer Satisfaction Procedure
- 312 Customer Assistance for Text Telephone (TTY) Users
- 312 Customer Assistance Offices
- 312 United States
- 313 Canada
- 313 Mexico, Central America and Caribbean Islands/ Countries (Except Puerto Rico and U. S. Virgin Islands)
- 313 GM Mobility Program for Persons with Disabilities
- 314 Roadside Assistance
- 315 Canadian Roadside Assistance
- 316 Courtesy Transportation
- 316 Plan Ahead When Possible
- 316 Transportation Options
- 316 Shuttle Service
- 316 Public Transportation or Fuel Reimbursement
- 317 Courtesy Rental Vehicle
- 317 Additional Program Information
- 317 Warranty Information
- 318 REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS TO THE UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT
- 318 REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS TO THE CANADIAN GOVERNMENT
- 319 REPORTING SAFETY DEFECTS TO GENERAL MOTORS