Jonsered 2150 Operator's Manual

Operator´s manual

336 339XP

Please read these instructions carefully and make sure you understand them before using the machine.

English

Symbols:

KEY TO SYMBOLS

Symbols in the operator’s manual:

CAUTION! Chain saws can be dangerous!

Careless or incorrect use can result in serious or fatal injury to the operator or others.

Switch off the engine by moving the stop switch to the STOP position before carrying out any checks or maintenance.

Please read the instructions carefully and make sure you understand them before using the saw.

Always wear:

• Approved protective helmet

• Approved hearing protection

• Protective glasses or visor

Always wear approved protective gloves.

Regular cleaning is required.

This product is in accordance with applicable

CE directives.

Visual check.

Noise emission to the environment according to the European Community’s

Directive.

The machine’s emission is specified in chapter Technical data and on label.

Protective glasses or a visor must be worn.

Other symbols/decals on the machine refer to special certification requirements for certain markets.

Refuelling

Chain oil and chain oil flow adjustment

2

– English

CONTENTS

Before using a new saw

• Read the instructions carefully.

• Check cutting equipment is correctly fitted and adjusted. See page 26.

• Refuel and start the saw. Check the carburettor settings.

See pages 27-30.

• Do not use the saw until sufficient chain oil has reached the chain, see page 14.

IMPORTANT! If the carburettor mixture is too lean it greatly increases the risk of engine failure.

Poor maintenance of the air filter will cause carbon build-up on the spark plug and lead to difficult starting.

If the chain is badly adjusted it will cause increased wear or damage to the bar, drive sprocket and chain.

Under no circumstances should you modify the original design of the chain saw without approval from the manufacturer. Always use genuine spare parts. Unauthorized modifications or accessories may lead to serious injury or death.

A chain saw is a dangerous tool if used carelessly or incorrectly and can cause serious, even fatal injuries. It is very important that you read and understand these instructions.

WARNING! The insides of muffler contain chemicals that may be carcenogenic. Avoid contact with these elements in the event of damaged muffler.

Long term inhalation of the engine's exhaust fumes, chain oil mist and dust from sawdust can represent a health risk.

Husqvarna AB has a policy of continuous product development and therefore reserves the right to modify the design and appearance of products without prior notice.

Contents

Key to symbols

......................................................... 2

Safety instructions

Personal protective equipment

.................................. 4

Chain saw safety equipment

...................................... 4

Inspecting, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety equipment ............................................................................ 8

Cutting equipment

......................................................... 10

How to avoid kickback

................................................. 16

General safety precautions

....................................... 18

General working instructions

.................................... 20

What is what?

What is what? .................................................................... 25

Assembly

Mounting guide bar and chain ........................................... 26

Fuel handling

Fuelmix .............................................................................. 27

Fuelling .............................................................................. 28

Start and stop

Start and stop .................................................................... 29

Maintenance

Carburettor ........................................................................ 30

Starter device .................................................................... 31

Air filter .............................................................................. 32

Spark plug ......................................................................... 32

Muffler ............................................................................... 32

Adjustment of the oil pump ................................................ 33

Cooling system .................................................................. 33

Daily maintenance ............................................................. 33

Weekly maintenance ......................................................... 34

Monthly maintenance ........................................................ 34

Technical data

336 .................................................................................... 35

339XP ................................................................................ 35

English –

3

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

MOST CHAIN SAW ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

WHEN THE CHAIN TOUCHES THE OPERA-

TOR. You must use approved personal protective equipment whenever you use the machine. Personal protective equipment cannot eliminate the risk of injury but it will reduce the degree of injury if an accident does happen. Ask your dealer for help in choosing the right equipment.

CHAIN SAW SAFETY EQUIPMENT

This section explains the various safety features of the saw, how they work, and basic inspection and maintenance you should carry out to ensure safe operation. (See the ”What is what?” section to find out where these components are on Your saw).

NEVER USE A CHAIN SAW THAT HAS

FAULTY SAFETY EQUIPMENT! Carry out the inspection, maintenance and service routines listed in this section.

Long or continuous exposure to high noise levels may cause permanent hearing impairment. Always wear approved hearing protection when operating a chain saw.

• PROTECTIVE HELMET

• HEARING PROTECTION

• PROTECTIVE GLASSES

OR VISOR

• Chain brake and front hand guard

• GLOVES WITH

SAW PROTECTION

• Throttle lock

• Chain catcher

• PROTECTIVE TROUSERS

WITH SAW PROTECTION

• Right hand guard

• Vibration damping system

• Stop switch

• BOOTS WITH SAW

PROTECTION, STEEL

TOE-CAP AND NON-SLIP

SOLE

Generally clothes should be close-fitting without restricting your freedom of movement.

• ALWAYS HAVE A FIRST

AID KIT NEARBY

• Muffler

• Cutting equipment (see

”Cutting equipment” section).

4

– English


1 Chain brake and front hand guard

YOUR chain saw is equipped with a chain brake that is designed to stop the chain immediately if you get a kickback.

The chain brake reduces the risk of accidents, but only You can prevent them.

3a Starting

The chain brake must be engaged when the chain saw is started.

Take care when using your saw and make sure the kickback zone of the bar never touches any object.

B

b You can also use the chain brake as a temporary brake when you change position or if you put the saw down for a short time. You should also apply the chain brake manually if there is a risk of the chain accidentally hitting anyone or anything close by.

1 The chain brake (A) can either be activated manually (by your left hand) or automatically by the inertia release mechanism (a freeswinging pendulum). On most of our models the front hand guard acts as a counterweight in case of kickback.

A

B

The brake is applied when the front hand guard (B) is pushed forwards.

4 To release the chain brake pull the front hand guard backwards, towards the front handle.

B

This movement activates a spring-loaded mechanism that tightens the Brake Band (C) around the engine drive system (D) (Clutch Drum).

D

C

5 As mentioned in section A, kickback can be very sudden and violent.

Most kickbacks are minor and do not always activate the chain brake.

If this happens you should hold the chain saw firmly and not let go.

2 The front hand guard is not designed solely to activate the chain brake.

Another important safety feature is that it prevents the chain from hitting your left hand if you lose your grip on the front handle.

English –

5

If you get a violent kickback while the kickback zone of the bar is farthest away from you the chain brake will be activated by the movement of the counterweight (INERTIA

ACTIVATED).


6 The way the chain brake is triggered, either manually or automatically, depends on the force of the kickback and the position of the chain saw in relation to the object that the kickback zone of the bar strikes.

2 Throttle lock

The throttle lock is designed to prevent accidental operation of the throttle control.

When you press the lock (A)

(i.e. when you grasp the handle) it releases the throttle trigger (B).

When you release the handle the throttle trigger and the throttle lock both move back to their original positions. This movement is controlled by two independent return springs.

This arrangement means that the throttle control is automatically locked at the idle setting when you release the handle.

A

B

If the kickback is less violent or the kickback zone of the bar is closer to you the chain brake will be activated manually by the movement of your left hand.

3 Chain catcher

The chain catcher is designed to catch the chain if it snaps or jumps off. This should not happen if the chain is properly tensioned (see section on

”Assembly”) and if the bar and chain are properly serviced and maintained.

(See section on ”General working instructions”).

7 During felling your left hand grasps the front handle in such a way that it cannot activate the front hand guard. In this position the chain brake can only be activated by the inertia action of the counterweight.

4 Right hand guard

Apart from protecting your hand if the chain jumps or snaps, the right hand guard stops branches and twigs from interfering with your grip on the rear handle.

The inertia activated chain brake increases your safety but there are certain factors to remember (see point 6 above).

6

– English

5 Vibration damping system

Your chain saw is equipped with a vibration damping system that is designed to minimise vibrations and make operation easier.


6 Stop switch

Use the stop switch to switch off the engine.

When you use a chain saw vibrations are generated by the uneven contact between the chain and the wood you are cutting.

Cutting hardwoods (most broadleaf trees) creates more vibration than cutting softwoods (most conifers).

Cutting with a chain that is blunt or faulty (wrong type or badly sharpened, see section

D) will increase the vibration level.

7 Muffler

The muffler is designed to keep noise levels to a minimum and to direct exhaust fumes away from the user.

The vibration damping system reduces the vibrations transmitted from the engine and chain to the handles of the chain saw. The body of the saw, including the cutting equipment, is insulated from the handles by vibration damping units.

Overexposure to vibration can lead to circulatory damage or nerve damage in people who have impaired circulation.

Contact your doctor if you experience symptoms of overexposure to vibration.

These symptoms include numbness, loss of feeling, tingling, pricking, pain, loss of strength, changes in skin colour or condition.

These symptoms normally appear in the fingers, hands or wrists.

The exhaust fumes from the engine are very hot and may contain sparks which can start a fire. Never start the saw indoors or near combustible material!

In areas with a hot, dry climate there is a high risk of forest fires. These areas are sometimes controlled by legislation and requirements that among other things the muffler must be equipped with an approved type of spark arrestor mesh.

For mufflers it is very important that you follow the instructions on checking, maintaining and servicing your saw (see the section on

”Inspecting, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety equipment”).

The muffler gets very hot in use and remains so for a short time afterwards. DO NOT

TOUCH THE MUFFLER IF IT IS HOT!

English –

7


Inspecting, maintaining and servicing chain saw safety equipment

3 Checking the inertia brake release

SPECIAL TRAINING IS REQUIRED to service and repair chain saws. This is especially true of chain saw safety equipment. If your chain saw fails any of the checks described below take it to your SERVICE AGENT.

When you buy any of our products we guarantee the availability of professional repairs and service. If the retailer who sells your saw is not a SERVICING DEALER, ask him for the address of your nearest SERVICE

AGENT.

Hold the chain saw over a stump or other firm object.

Let go of the front handle so that the bar falls onto the stump.

1 Chain brake and front hand guard

1 Checking brake band wear

When the bar hits the stump the brake should be applied.

Brush off any sawdust, resin and dirt from the chain brake and clutch drum. Dirt and wear can impair operation of the brake.

Regularly check that the brake band is at least 0.6

mm thick at its thinnest point.

4 Checking the brake trigger

Place the chain saw on a firm surface and start it.

Make sure the chain does not touch the ground or any other object. See the instructions under the heading Start and stop.

2 Checking the front hand guard

A Make sure the

FRONT HAND GUARD is not damaged and that there are no visible defects such as cracks.

B Move the front hand guard forwards and back to make sure it runs freely and that it is securely anchored to the clutch cover.

Grasp the saw firmly, wrapping your fingers and thumbs around the handles.

Apply full throttle and activate the chain brake by tilting your wrist forward onto the front hand guard. Do not let go of the front handle.

The chain should stop immediately.

8

– English

2 Throttle lock

1 Make sure the throttle control is locked at the idle setting when you release the throttle lock.


4 Right hand guard

Check that the right hand guard is not damaged and that there are no visible defects, such as cracks.

2 Press the throttle lock and make sure it returns to its original position when you release it.

3 Check that the throttle control and throttle lock move freely and that the return springs work properly.

4 Start the saw and apply full throttle. Release the throttle control and check that the chain stops and remains stationary. If the chain rotates when the throttle is on idle setting you should check the carburettor idle adjustment. See the section on ”Maintenance”.

3 Chain catcher

Check that the CHAIN

CATCHER is not damaged and is firmly attached to the body of the saw.

5 Vibration damping system

Regularly check the vibration damping units for cracks or deformation

Make sure the vibration damping units are securely attached to the engine unit and handles.

6 Stop switch

Start the engine and make sure the engine stops when you move the stop switch to the stop setting.

English –

9

7 Muffler

Never use a chain saw that has a faulty muffler.

Regularly check that the muffler is securely attached to the chain saw.


CUTTING EQUIPMENT

This section describes how to choose and maintain your cutting equipment in order to:

• Reduce the risk of kickback.

• Reduce the risk of the chain breaking or jumping.

• Obtain maximum cutting performance.

• Extend the life of cutting equipment.

The 5 basic rules

1

Only use cutting equipment recommended by us!

See the ”Technical data” section.

If the muffler on your saw is fitted with a spark arrestor mesh this must be cleaned regularly. A blocked mesh will cause the engine to overheat and may lead to serious damage.

Never use a muffler if the spark arrestor mesh is missing or defective.

2

Keep the chain cutting teeth properly sharpened! Follow our instructions and use the recommended file

gauge. A damaged or badly sharpened chain increases the risk of accidents.

NEVER USE A CHAIN SAW WITH FAULTY

SAFETY EQUIPMENT. CARRY OUT THE

CHECKS AND MAINTENANCE MEASURES

DESCRIBED IN THIS SECTION. IF YOUR

CHAIN SAW FAILS ANY OF THESE CHECKS

CONTACT YOUR SERVICE AGENT TO GET IT

REPAIRED.

3

Maintain the correct raker clearance! Follow our instructions and use the recommended

raker gauge. Too large a clearance increases the risk of kickback.

4

Keep the chain properly

tesioned! If the chain is slack it is more likely to jump off and lead to increased wear on the bar, chain and drive sprocket.

5

Keep cutting equipment well lubricated and properly maintained!

A poorly lubricated chain is more likely to break and lead to increased wear on the bar, chain and drive sprocket.

10

– English


1 Cutting equipment designed to minimise kickback

Faulty cutting equipment or the wrong combination of bar and chain increases the risk of kickback. Use only the bar and chain combinations recommended in the ”Technical data” section.

C Some terms that describe the bar and chain

When the cutting equipment supplied with your saw becomes worn or damaged you will need to replace it. Use only the type of bar and chain recommended by us. See the

”Technical data” section to find out which equipment is recommended for your saw.

Bar

The only way to avoid kickback is to make sure that the kickback zone of the bar never touches anything.

By using cutting equipment with “built-in” kickback protection and keeping the chain sharp and well-maintained you can reduce the effects of kickback.

• LENGTH (inches/cm)

• NUMBER OF TEETH ON

BAR TIP SPROCKET (T).

Small number = small tip radius = low-kickback

A Bar

The smaller the tip radius the smaller the kickback zone and the lower the chance of kickback.

• CHAIN PITCH (inches)

The spacing between the drive links of the chain must match the spacing of the teeth on the bar tip sprocket and drive sprocket.

B Saw chain

A saw chain is made up of a number of links, which are available in standard and low-kickback versions.

None Standard Low-kickback

CUTTING LINK

DRIVE LINK

• NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS

The number of drive links is determined by the length of the bar, the chain pitch and the number of teeth on the bar tip sprocket.

• BAR GROOVE WIDTH

(inches/mm)

The groove in the bar must match the width of the chain drive links.

• SAW CHAIN OIL HOLE

AND HOLE FOR CHAIN

TENSIONER

The bar must be matched to the chain saw design.

SIDE LINK

Saw chain

Combining these links in different ways gives different degrees of kickback reduction. In terms of kickback reduction alone, four different types of link are available.

Kickback reduction Cutting link Drive link

LOW

STANDARD

HIGH

EXTRA HIGH

Side link

• SAW CHAIN PITCH

(inches)

Spacing between drive links.

• DRIVE LINK WIDTH (mm/ inches)

• NUMBER OF DRIVE LINKS

• LEVEL OF KICKBACK

REDUCTION

The level of kickback reduction offered by a chain is indicated by its model number.

See the

”Technical data” section to find the model numbers of chains that are recommended for use with your saw.

English –

11


2 Sharpening your chain and adjusting raker clearance

The risk of kickback is increased with a badly sharpened chain!

It is very difficult to sharpen a chain correctly without the right equipment. We recommend you use a file gauge. This will help you obtain the maximum kickback reduction and cutting performance from your chain.

A General information on sharpening cutting teeth

• Never use a blunt chain. When the chain is blunt you have to exert more pressure to force the bar through the wood and the cuttings will be very small. If the chain is very blunt it will not produce any cuttings at all, just wood powder.

The following faults will increase the risk of kickback considerably.

• A sharp chain eats its way through the wood and produces long, thick cuttings.

• FILE ANGLE TOO

LARGE

• CUTTING ANGLE

TOO SMALL

A

• The cutting part of the chain is called the CUTTING LINK and this consists of a

CUTTING TOOTH (A) and the RAKER LIP (B). The cutting depth is determined by the difference in height between the two.

B

• When you sharpen a cutting tooth there are five important factors to remember.

FILING ANGLE

• FILE DIAMETER

TOO SMALL

B Sharpening cutting teeth

CUTTING ANGLE

To sharpen cutting teeth you will need a ROUND FILE and a FILE GAUGE. See the

”Technical data” section for information on the size of file and gauge that are recommended for your saw chain.

1 Check that the chain is correctly tensioned. A slack chain is difficult to sharpen correctly.

FILE POSITION

ROUND FILE DIAMETER

2 Always file cutting teeth from the inside face, reducing the pressure on the return stroke.

File all the teeth on one side first, then turn the saw over and file the teeth on the other side.

min 4 mm

(0,16")

FILE DEPTH

1

5

See the ”Technical data” section for information about sharpening your saw chain.

12

– English

3 File all the teeth to the same length. When the length of the cutting teeth is reduced to 4 mm

(0,16") the chain is worn out and should be replaced.


C General advice on setting raker clearance D Setting the raker clearance

• When you sharpen the cutting teeth you reduce the

RAKER CLEARANCE

(cutting depth). To maintain cutting performance you must file back the raker teeth to the recommended height.

See the ”Technical data” section to find the raker clearance for your saw chain.

• Before setting the raker clearance the cutting teeth should be newly sharpened.

We recommend that you adjust the raker clearance every third time you sharpen the chain. NOTE! This recommendation assumes that the length of the cutting teeth is not reduced excessively.

• To adjust the raker clearance you will need a

FLAT FILE and a RAKER

GAUGE.

• On a low-kickback cutting link the front edge of the raker lip is rounded. It is very important that you maintain this radius or bevel when you adjust the raker clearance.

• We recommend the use of a raker gauge to achieve the correct clearance and bevel on the raker lip.

• Place the gauge over the raker lip.

• Place the file over the part of the lip that protrudes through the gauge and file off the excess. The clearance is correct when you no longer feel any resistance as you draw the file over the gauge.

The risk of kickback is increased if the raker clearance is too large!

3 Tensioning the chain

A slack chain may jump off and cause serious or even fatal injury.

• The more you use a chain the longer it becomes. It is therefore important to adjust the chain regularly to take up the slack.

• Check the chain tension every time you refuel.

NOTE! A new saw chain has a running-in period during which you should check the tension more frequently.

• Tension the chain as tightly as possible, but not so tight that you cannot pull it round freely by hand.

English –

13

1 Undo the bar nuts that hold the clutch cover and chain brake, using the combination spanner.

Then tighten the nuts by hand as tight as you can.

2 Raise the tip of the bar and stretch the chain by tightening the chain tensioning screw using the combination spanner.

Tighten the chain until it not hang slack on the underside of the bar.


4 Lubricating cutting equipment

Poor lubrication of cutting equipment may cause the chain to snap and lead to serious, even fatal injuries.

A Chain oil

• Chainsaw chain oil must demonstrate good adhesion to the chain and also maintain its flow caracteristics regardless of whether it is warm summer or cold winter weather.

• As a chainsaw manufacturer we have developed an optimal chain oil which, with its vegetable oil base, is also biodegradable. We recommend the use of our own oil for both maximum chain life and to minimise environmental damage.

• If our own chain oil is not available, standard chain oil is recommended.

• In areas where oil specifically for lubrication of saw chains is unavailable, ordinary EP 90 transmission oil may be used.

• Never use waste oil!

It is damaging to you, the saw and the environment.

3 Use the combination spanner to tighten the bar nuts while lifting the tip of the bar at the same time.

Check that you can pull the chain round freely by hand and that it is not slack on the bottom of the bar.

The position of the chain tensioning screw varies from model to model. See the ” What is what” section to find out where it is on your saw.

B Filling with chain oil

• The saw is equipped with automatic chain lubrication.

The oil flow is adjustable.

• The sizes of the chain oil tank and fuel tank have been chosen so that the saw will run out of fuel before running out of oil.

This means that you should never run with a dry chain.

However, this safety feature requires that you use the right sort of chain oil (if the oil is too thin it will run out before the fuel), and that you adjust the carburettor as recommended (a weak mixture may mean that the fuel lasts longer than the oil). You should also use the recommended cutting equipment (a bar that is too long will use more chain oil).

The above conditions also apply to models with an adjustable oil pump.

14

– English

C Checking chain lubrication

• Check the chain lubrication each time you refuel.

Aim the tip of the saw at a light coloured surface about

20 cm away. After 1 minute running at 3/4 throttle you should see a distinct line of oil on the light surface.


E Checking wear on cutting equipment

Saw chain

Check the saw chain daily for:

• Visible cracks in rivets and links.

• Whether the chain is stiff.

• Whether rivets and links are badly worn.

We recommend you compare the existing chain with a new chain to decide how badly it is worn.

When the length of the cutting teeth has worn down to only 4 mm the chain must be replaced.

If the chain lubrication is not working:

1 Check that the oil channel in the bar is not obstructed. Clean if necessary.

F Chain drive sprocket

min 4 mm

(0,16")

Regularly check the degree of wear on the drive sprocket. Replace if wear is excessive.

2 Check that the groove in the edge of the bar is clean. Clean if necessary.

3 Check that the bar tip sprocket turns freely and that the lubricating hole in the tip is not blocked.

Clean and lubricate if necessary.

If the chain lubrication system is still not working after carrying out the above measures you should contact your

service agent.

D Lubricating the bar tip sprocket

• Lubricate the bar tip sprocket each time you refuel. Use the special grease gun and a good quality bearing grease.

English –

15

G Bar

Check regularly:

• Whether there are burrs on the edges of the bar.

Remove these with a file if necessary.

• Whether the groove in the bar has become badly worn.

Replace the bar if necessary.


HOW TO AVOID KICKBACK

Kickback can happen very suddenly and violently; kicking the saw, bar and chain back at the user. If this happens when the chain is moving it can cause very serious, even fatal injuries. It is vital you understand what causes kickback and that you can avoid it by taking care and using the right working technique.

Working one-handed is dangerous and increases the risk of kickback.

What is kickback?

The word kickback is used to describe the sudden reaction that happens when the upper quadrant of the tip of the bar

(known as the “kickback zone”) touches an object and the saw is kicked backwards.

• Whether the tip of the bar is uneven or badly worn. If a hollow forms on one side of the bar tip this is due to a slack chain.

• To prolong the life of the bar you should turn it over daily.

Kickback always occurs in the cutting plane of the saw.

Normally the saw and bar are thrown backwards and upwards towards the user.

However the saw may move in a different direction depending on the way it was being used when the kickback zone of the bar touched the object.

MOST CHAIN SAW ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

WHEN THE CHAIN TOUCHES THE OPERA-

TOR.

• WEAR PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT

(see the section on ”Chain saw safety equipment”).

• DO NOT TACKLE ANY JOB YOU ARE UNSURE OF

(see the section on ”Personal protective equipment”, ”How to avoid kickback”, ”General working instructions” and ”Cutting equipment”).

• AVOID SITUATIONS WHERE THERE IS A RISK OF

KICKBACK (see the section on ”Personal protective equipment”).

• USE THE RECOMMENDED PROTECTIVE

EQUIPMENT AND CHECK ITS CONDITION (see section on ”General working instructions”).

• CHECK THAT ALL SAFETY FUNCTIONS ARE

WORKING (see section on ”General working instructions” and ”General safety precautions”).

16

– English

Kickback only occurs if the kickback zone of the bar touches an object.


General rules

1 If you understand what kickback is and how it happens then you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise. By being prepared you reduce the risk. Kickback is usually quite mild, but it can sometimes be very sudden and violent.

7 Take great care when you cut with the top edge of the bar, i.e. when cutting from the underside of the object. This is known as cutting on the push stroke. The chain tries to push the saw back towards the user.

2 Always hold the saw firmly with your right hand on the rear handle and your left hand on the front handle.

Unless the user resists this pushing force there is a risk that the saw will move so far backwards that only the kickback zone of the bar is in contact with the tree. This will cause kickback.

Wrap your fingers and thumb around the handles. You should use this grip whether you are right-handed or lefthanded. This grip minimises the effect of kickback and lets you keep the saw under control.

Do not let go of the handles!

Cutting with the bottom edge of the bar, i.e. from the top of the object downwards, is known as cutting on the pull stroke.

3 Most kickback accidents happen during limbing.

Make sure you are standing firmly and that there is nothing in the way that might make you trip or lose your balance.

In this case the saw pulls itself towards the tree and the front edge of the saw provides a natural rest when cutting. Cutting on the pull stroke gives you better control over the saw and the position of the kickback zone.

Lack of concentration can lead to kickback if the kickback zone of the bar accidentally touches a branch, nearby tree or some other object.

4 Never use the saw above shoulder height and try not to cut with the tip of the bar.

8 Follow the instructions on sharpening and maintaining your bar and chain. When you replace the bar and chain use only combinations that are recommended by us. See the sections on ”Cutting equipment” and ”Technical data”.

Never use the saw onehanded!

The risk of kickback is increased if you use the wrong cutting equipment or a chain that is not sharpened correctly. The wrong combination of bar and chain can increase the risk of kickback!

5 You must have a steady stance in order to have full control over the chain saw. Never work standing on a ladder, in a tree or where you do not have firm ground to stand on.

6 Always use a fast cutting speed, i.e. full throttle.

English –

17


6 STARTING

GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1 Chain saws are designed solely for cutting wood. The only cutting equipment that can be used with this chain saw are the combinations of bars and chains recommended in the

”Technical data” section.

Long term inhalation of the engine's exhaust fumes, chain oil mist and dust from sawdust can represent a health risk.

2 Never use a chain saw if you are tired, if you have drunk alcohol, or if you are taking medication that affects your vision, your judgement or your coordination.

Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and all covers are fitted correctly.

The chain brake must be engaged when the chain saw is started. Never air drop start the chain saw. This method is extremely dangerous, as it is easy to lose control of the chain saw. See the instructions under the heading

Start and stop.

WARNING!

Running an engine in a confined or badly ventilated area can result in death due to asphyxiation or carbon monoxide poisoning.

3 Always wear suitable protective clothing. See the section on ”Personal protective equipment”.

4 Never use a chain saw that has been modified in any way from its original specification.

• Never start a chain saw unless the bar, chain and clutch cover are fitted correctly. (See section on

”Assembly”).

• Never start a chain saw indoors. Exhaust fumes can be dangerous.

5a Never use a chain saw that is faulty. Carry out the regular checks, maintenance and service routines described in this manual. Some maintenance and service measures must be carried out by trained specialists.

See the section on

”Maintenance”.

b

Before use

• Before starting the saw make sure there are no people or animals nearby who might be put at risk.

1 Check that the chain brake works correctly and is not damaged. See the instructions under the heading Checking the chain brake.

2 Check that the rear right hand guard is not damaged.

3

4

5

6

7

• Place the saw on the ground and hold the rear handle down with your right foot. Grasp the front handle firmly using your left hand.

Make sure the chain saw is steady and the chain is not touching the ground. Then grasp the starter handle with your right hand and pull the starter cord. Never

twist the starter cord around your hand.

3 Check that the throttle lock works correctly and is not damaged.

2

4 Check that the start and stop switch works correctly and is not damaged.

5 Check that all handles are free of oil.

1

9

8

7 FUEL SAFETY

(Refuelling, fuel mixture, storage.)

Fuel and fuel vapour are highly inflammable.

Take care when handling fuel and chain oil.

Keep away from naked flames and do not breathe in fuel vapour.

6 Check that the anti vibration system works and is not damaged.

7 Check that the muffler is securely attached and not damaged.

8 Check that all parts of the chain saw are tightened correctly and that they are not damaged or missing.

9 Check that the chain catcher is in place and not damaged.

18

– English


• Never try to refuel the saw while it is running.

• Make sure there is plenty of ventilation when refuelling or mixing fuel (2-stroke mixture).

• Move the saw at least 3 m from the refuelling point before starting it.

• Never start the chainsaw: a) If you have spilt fuel or chain oil on the saw.

Wipe off the spill and allow remaining fuel to evaporate.

b) If you spill fuel or chain oil on yourself or your clothes. Change your clothes.

c) If there is a fuel leak.

Check regularly for leaks from the

FUEL CAP and FUEL

LINES.

Min. 3 m

(10 ft)

• Always store the chain saw and fuel away from any sources of sparks or naked flames, e.g. machines, electric motors, relays, switches, boilers, etc.

• Always store fuel in an approved container designed for

that purpose.

• For longer periods of storage or for transport of the saw, the fuel and chain oil tanks should be emptied. Ask where you can dispose of waste fuel and chain oil at your local petrol station.

8 Never use any accessories other than those recommended in this manual. See the sections on ”Cutting equipment”

The risk of accident is increased if you use the wrong cutting equipment or a chain that is not sharpened correctly. Using the wrong combination of bar and chain can increase the risk of accidents!

1 Basic safety rules

1 Look around you:

• to make sure there are no people, animals or other objects nearby that might affect your work.

• to make sure that none of the above might come within reach of your saw or be injured by falling trees.

Follow the instructions above, but do not use a chain saw in a situation where you cannot call for help in case of an accident.

2 Do not use the saw in bad weather, such as dense fog, heavy rain, strong wind, intense cold, etc. Working in cold weather is tiring and often brings added risks, such as icy ground, unpredictable felling direction, etc.

3 Take great care when removing small branches and avoid cutting bushes (i.e. cutting many small branches at the same time). Small branches can be grabbed by the chain and thrown back at you, causing serious injury.

4 Check the area around you for possible obstacles such as roots, rocks, branches, ditches, etc., in case you have to move suddenly. Take great care when working on sloping ground.

GENERAL WORKING INSTRUCTIONS

This section describes basic safety rules for using a chain saw. This information is never a substitute for professional skills and experience. If you get into a situation where you feel unsafe, stop and seek expert advice.

Contact your chain saw dealer, service agent or an experienced chain saw user. DO NOT

ATTEMPT ANY TASK THAT YOU FEEL

UNSURE OF!

Important

1 Before using a chain saw you must understand the effects of kickback and what causes it. (See the section on ”How to avoid kickback”.)

2 Before using a saw you must understand the difference between sawing with the top and bottom edges of the bar.

(See the section on ”How to avoid kickback”.)

5 Take the utmost care when cutting through branches or logs that are in tension. A log or branch that is in tension can suddenly spring back into its natural position before or after you cut it.

If you stand on the wrong side or start cutting in the wrong place it may strike you or your chain saw.

This could make you lose control and cause a serious accident.

English –

19


3 Make sure the chain will not strike the ground or any other object during or after cutting.

6 Before moving your chain saw switch off the engine and lock the chain using the chain brake. Carry the saw with the bar and chain pointing backwards.

Fit a guard to the bar before carrying the saw any distance.

4 Is there a risk of kickback?

5 Do the conditions and surrounding terrain affect your safety when working?

7 Never put a chain saw down while the engine is running unless you have it in clear view and the chain brake is on. Switch the engine off before leaving your chain saw for any length of time.

2 Basic cutting technique

Never use a chain saw by holding it with one hand. A chain saw is not safely controlled with one hand; you can cut yourself. Always have a secure, firm grip around the handles with both hands.

General

• Always use full throttle when cutting!

• Reduce the speed to idle after every cut (running the engine for too long at full throttle without any load can lead to serious engine damage).

• Cutting from above = Cutting on the pull stroke.

• Cutting from below = Cutting on the push stroke.

See the section on ”How to avoid kickback” to find out why cutting on the push stroke increases the risk of kickback.

Terms:

Cutting = General term for cutting through wood.

Limbing = Cutting limbs off a felled tree.

Splitting = When the object you are cutting breaks off before the cut is complete.

There are five important factors you should consider before making a cut:

1 Make sure the bar will not jam in the cut.

2 Make sure the log will not split.

Two factors decide whether the chain will jam or the log will split. The first is how the log is supported and the second is whether it is in tension.

In most cases you can avoid these problems by cutting in two stages; from the top and from the bottom of the log. You need to support the log so that it will not trap the chain or split during cutting.

If the chain jams in the cut:

STOP THE ENGINE! Don’t try to pull the saw free. If you do you may damage the chain when the saw suddenly breaks free. Use a lever to open up the cut and free the bar.

The following instructions describe how to handle most types of situation that you will be faced with when using a chain saw.

Cutting

1 The log is lying on the ground. There is little risk of the chain jamming or the log splitting. However there is a risk that the chain will touch the ground when you finish the cut.

Cut all the way through the log from above. Try not to touch the ground as you finish the cut.

Maintain full throttle but be prepared in case the chain snatches.

A If it is possible to turn the log you should stop cutting about 2/3 of the way through.

B Turn the log and finish the cut from the opposite side.

20

– English

2 The log is supported at one end. There is a high risk that it will split.

A Start by cutting from below (about 1/3 of the way through).


3 Tree felling technique

It takes a lot of experience to fell a tree.

Inexperienced users of chain saws should not fell trees. NEVER ATTEMPT A TASK YOU ARE

UNSURE OF.

A Safe distance

The safe distance between a tree that is to be felled and anyone else working nearby is at least 21/2 tree lengths.

Make sure that no-one else is in this “risk zone” before or during felling.

B Finish by cutting from above so that the two cuts meet.

3 The log is supported at both ends. There is a high risk that the chain will jam.

A Start by cutting from above (about 1/3 of the way through).

B Finish by cutting from below so that the two cuts meet.

Limbing

When limbing thick branches you should use the same approach as for cutting.

Cut difficult branches piece by piece.

1

3

2

B Felling direction

The aim is to fell the tree in the best possible position for subsequent limbing and cross-cutting. You want it to fall on ground where you can move about safely.

The main point to avoid is letting the tree fall onto another tree. It can be both difficult and dangerous to remove a tree in such a position (see point 4 in this section).

Once you have decided which way you want the tree to fall you must judge which way the tree would fall naturally.

Several factors affect this:

Lean of the tree

Bend

Wind direction

Arrangement of branches

Weight of snow

You may find you are forced to let the tree fall in its natural direction because it is impossible or dangerous to try to make it fall in the direction you first intended.

Another very important factor, which does not affect the felling direction but does affect your safety, is to make sure the tree has no damaged or dead branches that might break off and hit you during felling.

During critical felling operations, hearing protectors should be lifted immediately when sawing is completed so that sounds and warning signals can be heard.

English –

21


C Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat FELLING CUT

The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side of the tree and cut with the bottom edge of the bar.

Remove any branches that are in the way. To do this it is best to work from the top down and keep the trunk between you and the chain saw. Never limb above shoulder height.

Make the FELLING CUT about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) above the flat section of the

DIRECTIONAL CUT.

Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and check the area for obstacles

(stones, branches, holes, etc.) so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree starts to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 degrees behind the intended felling direction.

Set the spike bumper (if one is fitted) in behind the breaking strip. Use full throttle and bring the bar and chain slowly into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to move in the opposite direction to your intended felling direction.

Drive a WEDGE or BREA-

KING BAR into the cut as soon as it is deep enough.

D Felling

Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the

DIRECTIONAL CUTS, which consist of the TOP CUT and the

BOTTOM CUT; followed by the FELLING CUT. By placing these cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very accurately.

DIRECTIONAL CUT

To make the DIRECTIONAL

CUT you begin with the TOP

CUT. Stand to the right of the tree and cut downwards at an angle.

Finish the FELLING CUT parallel with the

DIRECTIONAL CUT LINE so that the distance between them is at least at least 1/10 of the trunk diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the BREAKING STRIP.

The BREAKING STRIP act as hinges that control the felling direction of the falling tree.

Next make the BOTTOM CUT so that it finishes at the end of the TOP CUT.

All control over the felling direction is lost if the BREA-

KING STRIP is too narrow or if the directional cut and felling cut are badly placed.

The directional cut should run

1/4 of the diameter through the trunk and the angle between the TOP CUT and

BOTTOM CUT should be 45°.

When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the tree should start to fall under its own weight or with the aid of a FELLING WEDGE or BREAKING BAR.

The line where the two cuts meet is called the

DIRECTIONAL CUT LINE.

This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right angles

(90°) to the chosen felling direction.

22

– English

We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the diameter of the tree, so that you can make the FELLING

CUT and DIRECTIONAL CUT with single cutting stokes.

(See ”Technical data” to find out which lengths of bar are recommended for your saw).


4 Freeing a tree that has fallen badly = high accident risk

A Freeing a “Trapped tree”

The safest method is to use a winch.

A Tractor-mounted B Portable

There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger than the bar length. However these methods involve a much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will come into contact with the tree.

UNLESS YOU HAVE SPECIAL TRAINING WE

ADVISE YOU NOT TO FELL TREES WITH A

DIAMETER LARGER THAN THE BAR LENGTH

OF YOUR SAW!

B Cutting trees and branches that are in tension

Preparations:

a) Work out which way the tree or branch will move if released and where the natural “BREAKING POINT” is (i.e. the place it would break if it was bent even more).

E Limbing

MOST KICKBACK ACCIDENTS HAPPEN

DURING LIMBING!PAY CLOSE ATTENTION

TO THE POSITION OF THE KICKBACK ZONE

OF THE BAR WHEN YOU ARE LIMBING

BRANCHES THAT ARE IN TENSION!

Make sure there are no obstacles in your way. Work on the left side of the trunk.

Work close to the saw for maximum control. If possible, let the weight of the saw rest on the trunk.

Keep the tree between you and the saw as you move along the trunk.

b) Decide which is the SAFEST way to release the tension and whether YOU are able to do it safely. In complicated situations the only safe method is to put aside your chain saw and use a winch.

General advice:

a) Position yourself so that you will be clear of the tree or branch when it springs free.

F Cutting the trunk into logs

See chapter ”General working instructions” point 2 ”Basic cutting technique”.

b) Make one or more cuts at or near the BREAKING

POINT. Make as many cuts of sufficient depth as necessary to reduce the tension and make the tree or branch break at the

BREAKING POINT.

Never cut straight through a tree or branch that is in tension!

English –

23

8

WHAT IS WHAT?

1

2

7

9

11

6

25

22

21

28

3

4

Husqvarna 336

XXXX

XXXXXXX

Husqvarna AB

Huskvarna, SWEDEN

12

5

17

10

20

27

13

19 18

30 16 15 14

29 23

24

What is what?

1.

Filter cover.

2.

Air Purge

3.

Front handle.

4.

Front hand guard.

5.

Starter.

6.

Chain oil tank.

7.

Starter handle.

8.

Adjuster screw, carburettor.

9.

Choke control:

• Choke control/Start throttle lock.

• Operating position.

10. Rear handle.

11. Stop switch:

• Ignition on/off switch.

12. Fuel tank.

13. Muffler.

14. Bar tip sprocket.

15. Saw chain.

24

– English

26

16. Bar.

17. Spark plug cover.

18. Chain catcher. Catches chain if it jumps or breaks.

19. Clutch cover with integrated chain brake.

20. Right hand guard. Protects the right hand if the chain snaps or jumps off.

21. Throttle control.

22. Throttle lock. Prevents accidental operation of throttle control.

23. Screwdriver.

24. Combination spanner.

25. Chain tensioning screw.

26. Operator's manual.

27. Bar guard.

28. Adjuster screw, oil pump.

29. Spark plug spanner

30. Bumper.

ASSEMBLY

Mounting guide bar and chain

Always wear gloves, when working with the chain, in order to protect your hands from injury.

Check that the chain brake is in disengaged position by moving the front hand guard towards the front handle.

Hold up the tip of the bar and tighten the chain. The chain is correctly tensioned when there is no slack on the underside of the bar, but it can still be turned easily by hand.

Hold up the bar tip and tighten the bar nuts with the combination wrench.

When fitting a new chain, the chain tension has to be checked frequently until the chain is run-in. Check the chain tension regularly. A correctly tensioned chain gives good cutting performance and long lifetime.

Unscrew the nut and remove the clutch cover (chain brake).

Take off the transportation ring (A).

Fitting a spike bumper

To fit a spike bumper – contact your service agent.

Fit the bar over the bar bolts.

Place the bar in its rearmost position. Place the chain over the drive sprocket and in the groove on the bar. Begin on the top side of the bar. Make sure that the edges on the cutting links are facing forward on the top side of the bar.

Fit the clutch cover and locate the chain adjuster pin in the hole on the bar. Check that the drive links of the chain fit correctly on the drive sprocket and that the chain is in the groove on the bar. Tighten the bar nuts finger tight.

Tension the chain by using the combination wrench. Turn the chain adjuster screw clockwise. The chain should be tensioned until it fits snugly on the underside of the bar.

English –

25

Fuelmix

FUEL HANDLING

IMPORTANT! The chain saw is equipped with a two-stroke engine and must always been run using a mixture of petrol and two-stroke engine oil. It is important to accurately measure the amount of oil to be mixed to ensure that the correct mixture is obtained. When mixing small amounts of fuel, even small inaccuracies can drastically affect the ratio of the mixture.

Always provide for good ventilation when handling fuel.

Mixing

• Always mix the petrol and oil in a clean container intended for fuel.

• Always start by filling half the amount of the petrol to be used. Then add the entire amount of oil. Mix

(shake) the fuel mixture.

Add the remaining amount of petrol.

Petrol

• Use good quality unleaded or leaded petrol.

• The lowest octane recommended is 90.

• If you run the engine on a lower octane grade than 90 so-called, knocking can occur. This gives rise to a high engine temperature, which can result in serious engine damage.

• When working with continuous high revs (e.g.

delimbing) a higher octane grade is recommended.

• Mix (shake) the fuel mixture thoroughly before filling the saw’s fuel tank.

• Do not mix more than max.

one month’s supply of fuel.

• If the saw is not used for some time the fuel tank should be emptied and cleaned.

Two-stroke oil

• For the best results use HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil, which is especially developed for chain saws. Mixing ratio 1:50 (2%).

• If HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil is not available, you may use another two-stroke oil of good quality that is intended for air cooled engines. Contact your dealer when selecting an oil.

Mixing ratio 1:33 (3%)-1:25 (4%).

• Never use two-stroke oil intended for water cooled outboard motors, so-called, outboard oil.

• Never use oil intended for four-stroke engines.

Gasolin

Benzin

Essence

Gasolina

Lit.

5

10

15

20

US gallon

1

2 1/2

5

Oil • Öl

Huile • Aceite

Lit.

2%(1:50)

0,10

0,20

0,30

0,40

3%(1:33)

0,15

0,30

0,45

0,60

4%(1:25)

0,20

0,40

0,60

0,80

US fl. oz.

2%(1:50)

2 1/2

6 1/2

12 7/8

3%(1:33)

3 3/4

9 3/4

19 1/4

4%(1:25)

5 1/8

12 7/8

25 3/4

26

– English

Chain oil

• The chain lubrication system is automatic. Always use special chain oil with good adhesive characteristics.

• In countries where no special chain oil is available,

EP 90 transmission oil can be used.

• Never use waste oil. This results in damage to the oil pump, the bar and the chain.

• It is important to use oil of the right viscosity according to the air temperature.

• In temperatures below 0 o C

(32 o F) some oils become too viscous. This can overload the oil pump and result in damage to the oil pump components.

• Contact your servicing dealer when choosing chain oil.

FUEL HANDLING

Fuelling

Taking the following precautions, will lessen the risk of fire.

• Do not smoke or place warm objects in the vicinity of the fuel.

• Always shut off the engine before refuelling.

• Slowly open the fuel cap, when filling fuel, so that possible overpressure is slowly released.

• Tighten the fuel cap carefully after fuelling.

• Always move the saw from the fuelling area before starting.

Clean around the fuel cap.

Clean the fuel and chain oil tanks regularly. The fuel filter should be changed at least once a year. Contamination in the fuel tanks causes malfunction. Make sure the fuel is well mixed by shaking the container before fuelling.

The volume of chain oil and fuel tanks are adjusted to each other. Therefore, always fill chain oil and fuel at the same time.

Min 3 m

(10ft)

English –

27

Start and stop

WARNING!

START AND STOP

• Never start the saw engine without the bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake) assembled - or else the clutch can come loose and cause personal injuries.

• Always move the saw away from the fueling area before starting.

• Place the saw on clear ground and make sure that the chain is not contacting anything. Also, make sure that you have a secure footing.

• Keep people and animals well away from the working area.

Start

Activate the chain brake by pushing the front hand guard forward.

Grip the front handle with your left hand and hold the saw down by putting your right foot in the rear handle. Pull the starter handle with your right hand and pull out the starter cord slowly until the starter pawls engage. Then pull sharply. Never twist the

starter cord around your hand.

Cold engine

STARTING:

The chain brake must be engaged when the chain saw is started. Activate the brake by moving the front hand guard forwards.

As the chain brake is still engaged the speed of the engine must be set to idling as soon as possible, this is achieved by quickly disengaging the throttle lock.

This prevents unnecessary wear to the clutch, clutch drum and brake band.

IGNITION: Set the stop switch to the start position.

CHOKE: Set the choke control in the choke position.

AIR PURGE:

Press the air purge diaphragm repeatedly until fuel begins to fill the diaphragm. The diaphragm need not be completely filled.

Slide the control to its start throttle position when the engine fires and make repeated attempts until the engine starts.

When the engine starts, quickly apply full throttle to automatically disengage fast idle.

Disengage the chain brake by pulling the front hand guard backwards.

CAUTION! Do not release the starter handle from fully pulled out position as this can cause damage on the saw.

Reactivate the chain brake by pushing the front hand guard back towards the front handle.

The chain saw is now ready for use.

Stop

The engine is stopped by switching off the ignition.

Warm engine

Use the same procedure as for starting cold engine but without choke. Fast idle is recived by first set the choke control in choke position, and then back again.

Storage

The saw should always be stored upright on a flat surface.

28

– English

MAINTENANCE

Carburettor

Your Husqvarna product has been designed and manufactured to specifications that reduce harmful emissions.

After your unit has been run 8-10 tanks of fuel the engine has broken in. To ensure that your unit is at peak performance and producing the least amount of harmful emissions after break in, have your authorized servicing dealer, who has a revolution counter at his disposal, to adjust your carburetor for optimum operating conditions.

Functioning, Basic setting, Final setting

WARNING! Do not start the saw without the bar, chain and clutch cover (chain brake) assembled. If you do, the clutch might come loose and cause severe injuries.

Conditions

• Before any adjustments are made the air filter should be clean and the cylinder cowling fitted. Adjusting the carburettor while a dirty air filter is in use will result in a leaner mixture when the filter is finally cleaned. This can give rise to serious engine damage.

• Carefully turn the L and H needles to the mid-point between fully in and fully out.

• Do not attempt to adjust the needles past their stops as

this can cause damage.

• Now start the saw according to the starting instructions and run it warm for 10 minutes. NOTE! If the chain rotates the T

screw should be turned anti-clockwise until the chain stops.

• Place the saw on a flat surface so that the bar points away from you and so that the bar and chain do not come into contact with the surface or other objects.

Operation

• The carburettor governs the engine speed via the throttle. Air/ fuel are mixed in the carburettor. The air/fuel mixture is adjustable. To take advantage of the saw’s maximum output the setting must be correct.

• Adjusting the carburettor means the engine is adapted to local operating conditions, e.g. climate, altitude, petrol and the type of 2-stroke oil used.

H

L

• The carburettor has three adjustment possibilities:

L = Low speed jet.

H = High speed jet.

T = Adjustment screw for idling.

T

Low speed needle L

Turn the L needle clockwise to the stop. If the engine accelerates poorly or idles unevenly turn the L needle anticlockwise until good acceleration and idling are achieved.

NOTE! If the chain rotates in the idling position, turn the idling speed screw counter-clockwise until the chain stops.

Final setting of the idling speed T

Adjust the idling speed with the screw T. If it is necessary to readjust, first turn the idle speed adjusting screw T clockwise, until the chain starts to rotate. Then turn, counter-clockwise until the chain stops. A correctly adjusted idle speed setting occurs when the engine runs smoothly in every position. It should also be good margin to the rpm when the chain starts to rotate.

WARNING! Contact your servicing dealer, if the idle speed setting cannot be adjusted so that the chain stops. Do not use the saw until it has been properly adjusted or repaired.

• The fuel quantity required in relation to the air flow, provided by opening the throttle, is adjusted by the L and H-jets. If they are screwed clockwise the air/fuel ratio becomes leaner (less fuel) and if they are turned anti-clockwise the ratio becomes richer (more fuel). A leaner mixture gives a higher engine speed and a richer mixture give a lower engine speed.

• The T screw regulates the idling speed. If the screw T is turned clockwise this gives a higher idling speed; anticlockwise a lower idling speed.

Basic setting and running in

The carburetor is set to its basic setting when test run at the factory. The basic setting is richer than the optimal setting and should be kept during the machine‘s first working hours.

Thereafter the carburetor should be finely adjusted. Fine adjustment should be carried out by a skilled technician.

NOTE! If the chain rotates while idling the T screw should be adjusted counter-clockwise until it stops.

Recommended idling speed: 2 800 rpm.

WARNING! Contact your servicing dealer, if the idle speed setting cannot be adjusted so that the chain stops. Do not use the saw until it has been properly adjusted or repaired.

High speed needle H

The high speed needle H affects the power and engine speed of the saw. Too lean a setting of the high speed needle (H needles screwed in too far) cause over-revving with subsequent damage to the saw. Turn the high speed needle anti-clockwise to its stop. If the engine runs unevenly, turn the high speed needle clockwi se until the

H engine runs evenly.

The H jet is correctly adjusted when the saw “4-strokes“ slightly.

If the saw “screams“, it is set too lean. If smoke comes from the muffler while the saw is “4-stroking“, it is set too rich. Turn the H needle clockwise to achieve a setting which sounds right.

Note! For optimal adjustment, contact a qualified service agent with access to a tachometer.

Fine adjustment

• When the saw has been ”run-in” the carburettor should be finely adjusted. The fine adjustment should be carried out

by qualified person. First adjust the L-jet, then the idling screw T and then the H-jet.

Changing the type of fuel

Fine tuning may be required if the chain saw, after changing the type of fuel, performs differently with regard to starting, acceleration, max. speed, etc.

Correctly adjusted carburettor

A correctly adjusted carburettor means that the saw accelerates without hesitation and the saw 4-cycles a little at max speed.

Furthermore, the chain must not rotate at idling. A too lean adjusted low speed needle L may cause starting difficulties and bad acceleration. A too lean adjusted high speed needle H gives lower power=less capacity, bad acceleration and/or damage to the engine. A too rich adjustment of the two speed needles L and H gives acceleration problems or too low working speed.

English –

29

Starter device

WARNING!

MAINTENANCE

Tensioning the recoil spring

• When the recoil spring is assembled in the starter housing, it is in tensioned position and can when treated carelessly, pop out and cause injuries.

• Always be careful, when changing the recoil spring or the starter cord. Always wear safety goggles for eye protection.

• Lift the starter cord up in the notch on the starter pulley and turn the starter pulley 2 turns clockwise.

NOTE! Check that the starter pulley can be turned at least half a turn, when the starter cord is entirely pulled out.

Changing a broken or worn starter cord

• Loosen the screws, that hold the starter device against the crankcase and remove the starter device.

• Pull out the cord approx. 30 cm and lift it up into the notch in the pulley. Zero-set the recoil spring by letting the pulley rotate slowly backwards. Undo the screw in the centre of the pulley and remove the pulley.

• Insert and fasten a new starter cord in the pulley.

Wind approx. 3 turns of the starter cord on to the pulley.

Assemble the starter pulley against the recoil spring, so the end of the spring engages to the pulley. Fit the screw in the centre of the pulley. Carry the starter cord through the hole in the starter housing and the starter handle. Make a knot on the starter cord.

Changing the broken recoil spring

• Lift the starter pulley. (See,

”Changing a broken or worn starter cord”).

• Remove the return spring cassette by lifting it out of the starter device. Ensure that the spring does not shoot out and cause injury.

• Lubricate the new return spring with light oil, without removing it from the cassette,

• Insert the new spring cassette.

• Insert the cord pulley and tension the return spring.

Starter device assembly

• Assemble the starter device, by pulling the starter cord out first, then place the starter against the crankcase. Then slowly release the starter cord so that the pulley engages with the pawls.

• Assemble and tighten the screws, which hold the starter.

30

– English

Clean the air filter daily or more often if the air is exceptionally dusty in the working area.

MAINTENANCE

Air filter

Dust and dirt should be regularly cleaned from the air filter and the area around the carburettor to avoid:

• Carburettor malfunctions

• Starting problems

• Engine power reduction

• Unnecessary wear on the engine parts

• Abnormal fuel consumption

Muffler

The muffler is designed in order to reduce the noise level and to direct the exhaust gases away from the operator.

The exhaust gases are hot and can contain sparks, which may cause fire if directed against dry and combustible material. Some mufflers are equipped with a special screen.

• The air filter is removed after lifting off the cover.

When reassembling, make sure that the filter is tight against the filter holder.

Shake or brush clean the filter and the area around the carburettor.

If your saw has this type of muffler, you should clean the screen at least once a week. This is done with a wire brush.

CAUTION! The screen must be replaced, if damaged. The saw will be overheated, if the screen is clogged. This results in damage on the cylinder and the piston. Never use a saw with a clogged or defective muffler.

• A more thorough cleaning of the filter is obtained by washing it in water and soap.

An air filter, which is used for some time, cannot be cleaned completely. Therefore it must be replaced by a new one, with regular intervals.

IMPORTANT! A damaged air filter must always be replaced.

Adjustment of the oil pump

Spark plug

0,5 mm

The oil pump is adjustable.

Adjustments are made by turning the screw using a screwdriver or combination spanner. The saw is supplied from the factory set to 1 turn open. Turning the screw clockwise will reduce the oil flow and turning the screw anti-clockwise will increase the oil flow. NOTE! Max 1 1/2 turns.

The spark plug condition is influenced by:

• An incorrect carburettor setting.

• Wrong fuel mixture (too much oil in the gasoline).

• A dirty air filter.

These factors cause deposits on the spark plug electrodes, which may result in malfunction and starting difficulties.

• If the engine is low on power, difficult to start or runs poorly at idling speed, always check the

spark plug first. If the spark plug is dirty, clean it and check the electrode gap. Readjust if necessary.

The correct gap is 0,5 mm

(0,020"). The spark plug should be replaced after about a month in operation or earlier if the electrodes are badly eroded.

IMPORTANT! Always use the recommended spark plug type.

An incorrect spark plug can severely damage the piston/ cylinder.

WARNING! The engine must not be running when making adjustments.

English –

31

Cooling system

MAINTENANCE

Below you will find some general maintenance instructions.

If you have more questions, contact your servicing dealer.

To obtain the lowest possible running temperature the saw is equipped with a cooling system.The cooling system consists of:

1. Air intake on the starter unit.

2. Air guide plate.

3. Fan blades on the flywheel.

4. Cooling fins on the cylinder.

Clean the cooling system with a brush once a week, more often in demanding conditions. A dirty or blocked cooling system

results in the saw overheating which causes damage to piston and cylinder.

Daily maintenance

1.

Check the throttle trigger for smooth operation. If any binding occurs, or if engine fails to return to idle, the saw should be taken to your dealer, before it is used again.

Also, be sure that the trigger cannot be pulled until the throttle trigger lockout is depressed.

2.

Check that the chain catcher is undamaged and replace if necessary.

3.

Clean the air filter and the area around the carburettor. Replace the air filter if necessary.

4.

The bar should be turned daily for more even wear.

Check the lubrication hole in the bar, to be sure it is not clogged. Clean out the chain groove.

Lubricate the bar tip sprocket.

5.

Check the function of the oiler to be sure the bar and chain receive proper lubrication.

6.

Sharpen the chain and check its tension and condition. Check the drive sprocket for wear.

Replace if necessary.

7.

Check the starter and starter cord for wear or damage. Clean the air intake slots on the starter housing.

8.

Check for any loose nuts and screws and retighten if necessary.

9.

Test the stop switch to be sure it shuts off the engine.

1

2

3

9

5

7

6

4

8

Long-term storage

Empty the fuel/oil tanks in a well ventilated area.

Store the fuel in approved cans in a safe place.

Fit the bar guard.

Clean the machine. See weekly maintenance.

32

– English

Weekly maintenance

1.

Check that the AV elements are not soft or torn.

2.

Lubricate the clutch drum bearing.

1

3

3.

File off burrs, if any, on the sides of the bar.

4.

Clean the spark plug and check the gap. The correct gap is 0,7 mm

(0,028 inch).

5.

Check the starter and the recoil spring. Clean the fins on the flywheel.

5

6.

Clean the cooling fins on the cylinder.

7.

Clean or change the screen in the muffler.

7

8.

Clean the carburettor body and air box.

9.

Retighten all bolts on the muffler.

9

8

2

MAINTENANCE

Monthly maintenance

1.

Check the brake band on the chain brake for wear.

2.

Check the clutch centre, clutch drum and clutch spring for wear.

3.

Clean the outside of the carburettor.

4

0,5 mm

4.

Check the fuel filter.

Change if necessary.

5.

Flush the inside off the fuel tank with gasoline.

6

6.

Flush the inside of the oil tank with gasoline.

7.

Check all cables and connections.

7

8.

Replace the spark plug.

8

0,5 mm

9

9.

Replace the air filter.

English –

33

TECHNICAL DATA

336 339XP

Engine

Cylinder volume, cu.in/cm 3

Cylinder bore, inch/mm

Stroke, inch/mm

Idle speed, rpm

Recommended max. speed, unloaded, rpm

Power, kW/ rpm, Europe:

Power, kW/ rpm, Australia:

Ignition system

Manufacture

Type of ignition system

Spark plug

Electrode gap, inch/mm

Fuel/lubrication system

Carburettor manufacturer

Carburettor type

Fuel capacity, US pint/litre

Oil pump capacity at 8 500 rpm, ml/min

Oil capacity, US pint/litre

Type of oil pump

Weight

Without bar and chain, Lbs/kg

Noise emissions

(see note 1)

Sound power level, measured dB(A)

Sound power level, guaranteed L

WA

dB(A)

Sound levels

(see note 2)

Equivalent sound pressure level at operator’s ear, measured according to relevant international standards, dB(A)

Europe:

Australia:

Vibration levels

(see note 3)

Front handle m/s 2

Rear handle m/s 2

Chain/bar

Standard bar length, inches/cm

Recommended bar lengths, inches/cm

Usable cutting length, inches/cm

Chain speed at max. power, m/sec

Pitch, inch/mm

Thickness of drive link, inch/mm

Number of teeth on drive sprocket

35,2

38

31

2 800

13 800

1,5/ 9 600

1,6/ 9 600

SEM

CD

NGK BPMR 7A

Champion RCJ 7Y

0,5

Zama

C1Q EL20

0,36

3-7

0,16

Automatic

3,8

111

112

99

101

4,3

5,1

13"/33

13-16"/33-40

12-15"/31-38

18,5

0,325"/8,25

0,050"/1,3

7

39

40

31

2 800

13 800

1,8/ 9 600

1,7/ 9 600

SEM

CD

NGK BPMR 7A

Champion RCJ 7Y

0,5

Zama

C1Q EL20

0,36

3-7

0,16

Automatic

3,8

111

112

99

101

4,3

5,1

13"/33

13-18"/33-45

12-17"/31-42

18,5

0,325"/8,25

0,050"/1,3

7

Note 1: Noise emissions in the environment measured as sound power (L

WA

) in conformity with EC directive 2000/14/EC.

Note 2: Equivalent sound pressure level, according to ISO 7182, is calculated as the time-weighted energy total for sound pressure levels under various working conditions with the following time distribution: 1/3 idling, 1/3 max. load,

1/3 max. speed.

Note 3: Equivalent vibration level, according to ISO 7505, is calculated as the time-weighted energy total for vibration levels under various working conditions with the following time distribution: 1/3 idling, 1/3 max. load, 1/3 max. speed.

34

– English

´®z+H*|¶6ß¨

TECHNICAL DATA

Bar and chain combinations, model 336

The following combinations are CE approved.

Bar

Length, Pitch, inches inches

13

15

16

0,325

0,325

0,325

Chain

Max. no of teeth on tip sprocket

10 T

10 T

10 T

Husqvarna H30

Husqvarna H30

Husqvarna H30

Bar and chain combinations, model

339XP

The following combinations are CE approved.

Bar

Length, Pitch, inches inches

13

15

16

18

0,325

0,325

0,325

0,325

Chain

Max. no of teeth on tip sprocket

10 T

10 T

10 T

10 T

Husqvarna H30

Husqvarna H30

Husqvarna H30

Husqvarna H30

L

1

5

Type

H30

Inch

0,325"

Inch/mm Inch/mm

0,050"/1,3 3/16" /4,8

Angle

60°

Angle

30°

Angle

10°

Inch/mm

0,025"/0,65

Inch/cm: dl

13"/33:56 15"/38:64

16"/40:66 18"/45:72

EC-declaration of conformity

(Applies to Europe only)

Husqvarna AB, SE-561 82 Huskvarna, Sweden, tel: +46-36-146500, declares under sole responsibility that the chain saw

Husqvarna 336 and 339XP from 2002's serial numbers and onwards (the year is clearly stated in plain text on the type plate with subsequent serial number), is in conformity with the requirements of the COUNCIL'S DIRECTIVES:

- of June 22, 1998 ”relating to machinery” 98/37/EC, annex IIA.

- of May 3, 1989 ”relating to electromagnetic compatibility” 89/336/EEC, and applicable supplements.

- of May 8, 2000 ”relating to the noise emissions in the environment” 2000/14/EC.

For information relating to noise emissions, see the chapter Technical data.

The following standards have been applied: EN292-2, CISPR 12:1997, ISO/DIN 11681-2.

Notified body: 0404, SMP Svensk Maskinprovning AB, Fyrisborgsgatan 3, SE-754 50 Uppsala, Sweden, has carried out EC type examination in accordance with the machinery directive's (98/37/EC) article 8, point 2c. The certificate for EC type examination in accordance with annex VI, has the number: 404/02/913 - 336, 404/02/914 - 339XP.

In addition, SMP, Svensk Maskinprovning AB, Fyrisborgsgatan 3, SE-754 50 Uppsala, Sweden, has certified conformity with annex V of the Council's Directive of May 8, 2000 ”relating to the noise emissions in the environment” 2000/14/EC. The certificate has the number: 01/161/044.

The supplied chain saw conforms to the example that underwent EC type examination.

Huskvarna November 21, 2002

Bo Andréasson, Development manager

English –

35

114 01 09-26

´®z+H*|¶6ß¨

2003W07

No results