Alfa Next 45 Owner Manual
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32 Pages
The Alfa Next 45 is a versatile sewing machine designed for both beginners and experienced sewers. It offers a wide range of features and capabilities, including the ability to sew various fabrics (from delicate silks to heavyweight denim), make buttonholes in one easy step, sew decorative stitches and even attach zippers.
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1. NAMES OF PARTS
Names of Parts ............................................2
Extension Table ...........................................3
Standard Accessories .................................3
Carrying Handle ..........................................3
SECTION 4. dECORATIVE STITCHES
Shell Tuck ..................................................26
Smocking ...................................................27
Applique .....................................................28
Box Stitch ..................................................28
Decorative Stitch Patterns .........................29
Stretch Stitch Patterns ...............................29
SECTION 2. gETTINg REAdy TO SEw
Connecting Machine to Power Supply .........4
Before Using Your Sewing Machine .............4
For Your Safety ............................................4
Controlling Sewing Speed ...........................4
Setting Spool Pins .......................................5
Presser Foot Lifter .......................................5
Changing Presser Foot ................................5
Changing Needles .......................................6
To Check the Needle ...................................6
Thread and Needle Chart ............................6
Bobbin Winding.........................................7-8
Threading the Machine ...........................9-10
Needle Threader ........................................10
Balancing Needle Thread Tension .............11
Stitch Pattern Selector ...............................12
Stitch Chart Panel ......................................12
Stitch Length Dial ......................................12
Adjusting Stretch Stitch .............................13
Stitch Width Dial ........................................13
Reverse Stitch Button ................................13
Darning Plate .............................................13
SECTION 5. CARE OF yOUR MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the Shuttle
Race ........................................................30
Cleaning the Feed Dog .............................30
Sewing Light ..............................................31
Troubleshooting .........................................32
SECTION 3. BASIC SEwINg
Straight Stitch ............................................14
To Change Sewing Direction .....................14
Variable Needle Position ............................15
Seam Guide Lines .....................................15
Turning a Square Corner ...........................15
Basic Zigzag ..............................................16
Tricot Stitch ...............................................16
Straight Stretch Stitch ................................17
Zigzag Stretch Stitch .................................17
Knit Stitch ..................................................18
Button Sewing ...........................................18
Automatic Buttonhole ...........................19-20
Corded Buttonhole .....................................21
Zipper Application ......................................22
Pin Tucking ................................................23
Free Hand Mending and Embroidery ........24
Blind Hem Stitch .......................................25
1
!1
!2
!0
o i u
!3
!4
!5
!8
!9
@0
!6
@5
@6
!7
@7
@4
@3 y q w t
@2
@1 e r
SECTION 1. NAMES OF PARTS
Names of Parts
q
Stitch pattern selector dial w
Stitch length dial e
Stitch width dial r
Reverse stitch control t
Bobbin winder stopper y
Bobbin winder spindle u
Spool pins i
Stitch chart panel o
Bobbin winding tension disc
!0
Thread guide
!1
Thread take-up lever
!2
Thread tension dial
!3
Face cover
!4
Needle threader
!5
Needle plate
!6
Extension table (Accessory box)
!7
Carrying handle
!8
Handwheel
!9
Power switch
@0
Machine socket
@1
Free-arm
@2
Presser foot lifter
@3
Needle
@4
Needle clamp screw
@5
Presser foot holder
@6
Setscrew
@7
Presser foot
@8
Foot control
@8
2
q e t u w r y i
Extension Table
• Detaching the table
Pull the table away from the machine, as
illustrated, for “free-arm” sewing of cuffs
and sleeves. The extension table can be
used as accessory box.
• Attaching the table
Push the extension table until it snaps into
the machine.
Standard Accessories
q
Bobbins w
Needle set e
Zipper foot r
Blind hem stitch foot t
Sliding buttonhole foot y
Buttonhole opener / Seam ripper u
Screwdriver (small) i
Darning plate
Carrying Handle
Press down the marks on the carrying handle to raise the carrying handle.
q
Carrying handle q
3
q e r w t
4
SECTION 2. gETTINg REAdy
TO SEw
Connecting Machine to Power
Supply
CAUTION:
Before connecting the power cord, make
sure the voltage and frequency shown on
the machine conform to your electrical
power.
1. Turn off the power switch q.
2. Insert the machine plug w into the
machine socket
e.
3. Insert the power supply plug
r into the
outlet
t.
4. Turn on the power switch
q to activate the
power and sewing light.
q
Power switch
w
Machine plug
e
Machine socket
r
Power supply plug
t
Outlet
Before Using Your Sewing Machine
Before using your sewing machine for the first time, place a waste fabric under the presser foot and run the machine with thread for a few minutes. Wipe away any oil which may appear.
For your Safety
* While in operation, always keep your eyes
on the sewing area. Do not touch any
moving parts, such as the thread take-up
lever, handwheel or needle.
* Always turn off the power switch and
unplug from the power supply:
- When leaving the machine unattended
- When attaching or removing any parts
- When cleaning the machine
* Do not place anything on the foot control,
when not sewing.
Controlling Sewing Speed
Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control.
The harder you press on the foot control, the faster the machine runs.
q e w q w
Setting Spool Pins
The spool pins are used for holding the spools of thread when feeding the thread to the machine.
To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down for storage.
q
Upper thread
w
Hole
e
Tangle
NOTE:
When using thread which has tendency to
tangle around a spool pin e, thread
through the hole w of spool pin as shown.
The hole should face the thread spool.
e q w q w e
Presser Foot Lifter
The presser foot lifter raises and lowers the presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4˝ (0.6 cm) higher than the normal up position to help place heavy fabric under the foot.
q
Presser foot lifter
w
Normal up position
e
Highest position e
Changing Presser Foot
q
Presser foot w
Groove e
Pin
CAUTION:
When attaching or removing presser foot,
turn OFF the power switch.
5
• To remove
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the
needle bar to its highest position.
Raise the presser foot.
Push the toe of the presser foot q to snap
it off the foot holder.
• To attach
Place the presser foot so that the pin e on
the foot lines up directly below the
groove w of the foot holder.
Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in
place.
Changing Needles
CAUTION:
When changing needles, turn OFF the
power switch.
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you and lower the presser foot.
z
Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning
it counterclockwise.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
x
Insert the new needle into the clamp with
the flat side away from you.
When inserting the needle into the clamp,
push it up as far as it will go and tighten
the clamp screw firmly with the screw
driver.
To Check the Needle
Place the flat side of the needle on something flat (needle plate, glass etc.).
The clearance between the needle and flat surface should be consistent. Never use a bent or blunt needle.
Light weight
Fabrics Thread
Crepe de Chine, Voile, Fine Silk 65 (9)
Lawn, Organdy,
Georgette,
Tricot
Fine Cotton or
Fine Synthetic 75 (11)
Fine Cotton
Covered
Polyester
Medium weight
Linens, Cotton, Piqué, 50 silk 75 (11)
Serge, Double Knits, 50 to 80 Cotton or
Percale 50 to 60
Synthetic
90 (14)
Cotton Covered
Polyester
Heavy weight
Denim, Tweed, 50 silk 90 (14)
Gabardine,
Suiting, Drapery and or
40 to 50 Cotton 100 (16)
Upholstery Fabric 40 to 50
Synthetic
Cotton Covered
Polyester
Thread and Needle Chart
Needle Size
* In general, fine threads and needles are
used for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker
threads and needles are used for sewing
heavy fabrics.
* Always test thread and needle size on a
small piece of the fabric which will be used
for actual sewing.
* Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
* When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and
synthetics, use a stretch needle.
A stretch needle effectively prevents
skipped stitches.
6
q
2
Bobbin Winding
• Removing bobbin case
Remove the extension table from the
machine by pulling it to the left. Open the
shuttle cover q by pushing down the
embossed part on the cover.
Raise the needle to its highest position by
rotating the handwheel toward you.
q Shuttle cover
w Bobbin case
To remove the bobbin case w from the
shuttle, pull open the latch of the bobbin
case. Pull the bobbin case straight out of
the shuttle.
z v x
• Bobbin winding
z
Draw thread from the spool.
Guide the thread around the thread guide.
x
Thread through the hole in the bobbin
from the inside to the outside.
Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder
spindle.
c
Push the bobbin to the right.
v
With the free end of the thread held in
your hand, depress the foot control.
Stop the machine when the bobbin has
wound a few layers, and cut the thread
close to the hole in the bobbin.
c
7
b
Bobbin winding (continued)
b
Depress the foot control again. When the
bobbin is fully wound, it stops
automatically. Return the bobbin winder
to its original position by moving the
spindle to the left, and cut the thread.
z x c
• Inserting bobbin
z
Place a bobbin in the bobbin case, making
sure the thread feeds clockwise from the
bobbin.
x
Draw the thread through the slot of the
case.
q c
Continue to draw the thread under the
tension spring q and through the
opening.
Pull out about 4˝ (10 cm) of thread.
q
Tension spring
8
v b n z c z x x c v b n
Threading the Machine
• Threading the machine
* Raise the thread take-up lever to its
highest position by turning the handwheel
counterclockwise.
* Raise the presser foot lifter.
* Place a spool on the spool pin, with thread
coming off as shown.
z
Draw the end of thread around the upper
thread guide.
x
While holding the thread near the spool,
draw the end of the thread down around
the check spring holder.
c
Firmly draw the thread up and from right
to left over the take-up lever then down
into the take-up lever eye.
9 v
Then draw the thread down and slip it into
the lower thread guide.
b
Draw the thread down and slip it into
needle bar thread guide on the left.
n
Thread the needle eye from front to back.
z x c z x c
• Drawing up bobbin thread
z
Raise the presser foot. Hold the needle
thread lightly with your left hand.
x
Rotate the handwheel counterclockwise,
toward you, for one complete turn. Bring
the bobbin thread up by pulling the needle
thread up.
c
Pull both threads 4˝ to 6˝ (10 to 15 cm)
under and behind the presser foot.
Needle Threader
z
Raise the needle to its highest position.
Pull down the needle threader knob as
far as it will go. The hook comes out
through the needle eye from behind.
x
Lead the thread around the guide and
under the hook.
10 c
Release the knob slowly while holding the
thread end with your hand. A loop of the
thread is pulled up through the needle eye.
* The needle threader can be used with a
#11 to #16 needle or Blue tipped needle.
Thread size 50 to 90 should also work well.
z x c q e w r y
4
5
3
5
4
3 t
5
4
3
Balancing Needle Thread Tension
z
Correct tension
The thread tension is adjusted depending
on the sewing materials, layers of fabric
and sewing method.
The ideal straight stitch has threads
locked between two layers of fabric as
illustrated.
For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin
thread does not show on the right side
(top side) of the fabric, and the needle
thread shows slightly on the wrong side
(bottom side) of the fabric.
q
Needle thread (Top thread)
w
Bobbin thread (Bottom thread)
e
Right side (Top side) of fabric
r
Wrong side (Bottom side) of fabric
t
Thread tension dial
y
Setting mark x
Needle thread tension is too tight
When the bobbin thread (bottom thread)
will appear on the right side (top side) of
the fabric, Loosen the needle thread
tension by moving the dial to a lower
number.
c
Needle thread tension is too loose
When the needle thread (top thread) will
appear on the wrong side (bottom side)
of the fabric, tighten the needle thread
tension by moving the dial to a higher
number.
e q w
11
• Adjust bobbin tension
In some instances, you may need to adjust
the bobbin thread tension.
Turn the adjusting screw q in the direction
of w when the bobbin thread tension is too
tight.
Turn the adjusting screw q in the direction
of e when the bobbin thread tension is too
loose.
q Adjusting screw
w Decrease tension
e Increase tension
w q q
Stitch Pattern Selector
Raise the needle above the fabric.
Turn the dial to select the desired pattern.
q
Setting mark
w
Stitch selector
NOTE:
To avoid needle or fabric damage, make
sure the needle is up and out of the fabric
while selecting a stitch.
Stitch Chart Panel
Press down the mark on the stitch chart panel to open it.
q
Stitch chart panel
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 q
12
Stitch Length Dial
Turn the stitch length dial to set the desired stitch length at the setting mark.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch length
q
Setting mark
• “ ” is the recommended setting for
buttonhole stitching.
• Adjust the dial in the 0.5–4 range when you
sew the zigzag stitch.
q q
S.S.
Adjusting Stretch Stitch
Set the stitch length control at "S.S." to sew the stretch stitch pattern sewing.
If the stretch stitch pattern is uneven, turn the stitch length dial in the direction of "–" to compress it, or "+" to expand it.
Stitch Width Dial
Turn the stitch width dial to set the desired stitch width at the setting mark.
The higher the number, the wider the stitch width.
q
Setting mark
NOTE:
Raise the needle above the fabric, when
you turn the stitch width dial.
Reverse Stitch Button
As long as you keep the reverse stitch button depressed, the machines sew in backwards.
Darning Plate
Position the darning plate with 3 pins on the bottom.
Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes. The feed dogs will show through the darning plate holes.
13
q r w t
4
3 e
5
SECTION 3. BASIC SEwINg
Straight Stitch
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
1 or 2
Zigzag foot
2 to 6
1.5 to 4
0 or 5 q
• Starting to sew
Raise the presser foot and position the fabric next to a seam guide line on the needle plate
(5/8˝ [1.6 cm] is most common).
Lower the needle to the point where you want to start. Lower the presser foot and pull the threads toward the back. Depress the foot control.
Gently guide the fabric along a seam guide line letting the fabric feed naturally.
• Finishing sewing
To fasten the ends of a seam, press the reverse stitch control and sew several reverse stitches.
Raise the presser foot. Remove the fabric, draw the threads into the slit q on the back of the presser bar and pull the threads to cut the threads as illustrated.
q
Slit
14
To Change Sewing Direction
Stop the machine and turn the handwheel toward you to bring the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot.
Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing direction as desired.
Lower the presser foot and continue sewing.
Variable Needle Position
When the straight stitch (pattern 1) is selected, you can move the needle between center and left needle position by turning the stitch width dial. q w e
Seam guide Lines
The numbers on the needle plate indicate the distance between the center needle position q
and the guideline w.
The numbers in back are fractions of an inch.
The lines are 1/8˝ (0.3 cm) apart, and are engraved at 3/8˝, 4/8˝, 5/8˝ and 6/8˝.
The numbers in front are millimeters.
The lines are 5 mm apart, and are engraved at 10 mm, 15 mm and 20 mm.
q
Center needle position
w
Guide lines
e
Numbers q
Turning a Square Corner
To turn a square corner 5/8˝ (1.6 cm) from the fabric edge.
Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning the handwheel counterclockwise.
Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line the edge with the 5/8˝ (1.6 cm) seam guide.
Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction.
q
Cornering guide
15
q r w t
4
3 e
5
Basic Zigzag
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
3
Zigzag foot
2 to 5
0.5 to 4
1 or 5
The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and versatile stitches. It can be a utility stitch for button sewing, buttonhole making, hemming, overcasting, mending and darning.
It can also be used to decorate with trims, appliques and cut work, or as a decorative stitch.
q r w t
4
3 e
5
Tricot Stitch
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
4
Zigzag foot
1 to 4
0.5 to 1.5
5
This stitch is used to finish the seam allowance on synthetics and other fabrics that tend to pucker. Place your fabric to allow a
5/8˝ (1.6 cm) seam. Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Be careful not to cut the stitches.
16
q r w t
4
3 e
5
Straight Stretch Stitch
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
1 or 2
Zigzag foot
2 to 6
S.S.
0 or 5 q r w t e
The pattern is sewn with two stitches forward and one stitch backward, forming a seam that does not rip easily.
Use it to reinforce areas such as crotch and armhole seams.
Also use it when constructing items such as backpacks for extra strength.
Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as the fabric moves back and forth.
Zigzag Stretch Stitch
q
Stitch pattern: 3 w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
Zigzag foot
2 – 5
S.S.
2 – 5
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch.
This stitch is used as a decorative topstitch as well.
17
q r w t
4
3 e
5
Knit Stitch
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
7
Zigzag foot
1 to 4
S.S.
5 q r w t e y
This knit stitch is ideal for sewing swimwear and stretch velour because it provides the greatest amount of elasticity and strength.
Place your fabric to allow a 5/8˝ (1.6 cm) seam.
Trim the seam allowance after sewing.
Button Sewing
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width: y
Darning plate
3
Zigzag foot
2 to 6
Any
Adjust as necessary z
Attach the darning plate. Place the button
below the zigzag foot, making sure to
align the holes with the horizontal slot in
the foot. Turn the handwheel, so that the
needle is in its leftmost position, and then
drop the needle through the left hole in the
button. x
Lower the presser foot to hold the
button in place. Determine which zigzag
width setting matches the distance
between the button holes. The needle
must go safely through each hole when
sewing. c
Depress the foot control and sew about 10
stitches.
v
Trim excess threads from both sides of the
fabric.
18
NOTE:
If the presser foot slips off a small button,
place a spacer of the same thickness
behind the button to prevent the foot from
slipping.
q
BH z x t v
(A) c r y r q
(B) w t
!0
e w u o i
Automatic Buttonhole
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
R: Automatic
1 to 5
3 to 6
* The size of buttonhole is automatically set
by placing the button in the rear of the
automatic buttonhole foot R.
* The button holder of the foot takes a button
size up to 2.5 cm (1˝) in diameter.
* Make a test buttonhole on an extra piece of
the fabric, interfacing and seams of the
actual garment.
* Use interfacing on stretch fabrics.
z
Raise the needle by turning the
handwheel
toward you.
Raise the presser foot lifter.
Attach the automatic buttonhole foot R.
q
Groove w
Pin x
Pull the button holder to the back A, and
place the button in it.
Push back the button holder toward you B
as far as it will go.
e
Button holder
* If the button is extremely thick, make a
test buttonhole. If it is difficult to fit the
button through the test buttonhole,
lengthen the buttonhole by pulling the
button holder back to create a gap.
r
Gap c
Pull the buttonhole lever downward as
far as it will go.
t
Buttonhole lever v
Insert the fabric under the foot. Turn the
handwheel toward you one rotation and
remove the fabric to the left to draw both
threads to the left. Insert the garment
under the foot, and lower the needle at the
starting point. Then lower the automatic
buttonhole foot R.
y
Starting point
NOTE:
Make sure there is no gap between the
slider and spring holder, otherwise the left
and right length will be different.
19 u
Slider i
Spring holder o
There should be no gap.
!0
Sewing gap
b n m
,
.
!4
0
4
1
3
2
!2
!3
!1
b
Depress the foot control to sew a
buttonhole.
The machine will sew the front bartack,
left row, back bartack and right row
automatically. Stop the machine at the
ending point.
!1
Ending point n
Raise the presser foot and cut the both
needle and bobbin threads leaving 10 cm
(4˝) thread ends.
Draw the needle thread to wrong side of
the fabric by pulling the bobbin thread.
Then, knot the threads.
m
Remove the fabric and place a pin just
before the bartack at each end to
prevent cutting bartacks. Cut the
opening with the seam ripper.
!2
Pin
!3
Seam ripper
• To repeat buttonhole sewing
,
To repeat buttonhole sewing, turn the
stitch selector to , then back to
again, as shown.
Now, simply step on the foot control to
sew an identical buttonhole.
.
When the buttonhole sewing is finished,
push the buttonhole lever upward as far
as it will go.
!4
Buttonhole lever
• Adjusting buttonhole stitch density
Turn the stitch length dial to the right for a coarser density.
Turn the stitch length dial to the left for a tighter density.
20
z x q r w t e
Corded Buttonhole
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
R: Automatic BH foot
1 to 5
3 to 5 q w z
With the buttonhole foot raised, hook the
filler cord on the cord spur at the back of
the buttonhole foot.
Bring the ends toward you under the
buttonhole foot until they clear the front
end.
Hook the filler cord into the forks on the
front of the buttonhole foot to hold them
tight.
q Spur
w Forks x
Lower the needle into the garment where
the buttonhole will start and lower the foot.
Depress the foot control gently and sew
the buttonhole.
Each side of the buttonhole and the
bartacks will be sewn over the cord.
* The sewing steps are the same as the
automatic buttonhole sewing.
c
Remove the fabric from the machine and
cut the sewing threads.
Pull the left end of the filler cord to tighten it.
Thread the end through a darning needle,
draw to the bottom side of the fabric and
cut.
c
21
q r w t
4
3 e
5
Zipper Application
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
1
Zipper foot
3 to 6
1.5 to 4
5
Pin or baste zipper tape to fabric and place it under the foot.
Smooth the threads toward the back and lower the foot.
To sew the left side of the zipper, guide the zipper teeth along the edge of the foot and stitch through the garment and zipper tape.
Turn the fabric and sew the other side of the zipper in the same way as you did the left side.
22
q r w t e
Pin Tucking
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
1
Blind hem foot
3 to 6
2
0 or 5
Fold the fabric wrong sides together and lower the needle into the fabric 1/16˝ (0.1 to
0.2 cm) inside the folded edge.
Lower the foot and turn the screw to align the guide on the foot with the folded edge.
Sew slowly while guiding the folded edge along the guide.
Open the fabric and iron press the tucks.
23
q r w t e y
Free Hand Mending and Embroidery
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width: y
Darning plate
1 or 3
None
2 to 6
Any
Adjust as necessary
• Mending
Place the darning plate. Remove the foot
holder and presser foot. Center the hole in
the fabric on an embroidery hoop, as
shown.
Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow
speed.
Move the fabric back and forth slowly until
the darning area is covered. Turn the fabric
a 1/4 turn (90°), and sew another layer of
stitching over the first layer.
NOTE:
If fabric is thin or badly damaged, attach a
separate piece of fabric under the hole to
reinforce it.
24
• Embroidery
Put on the darning plate.
Remove the foot holder and foot.
Adjust the stitch width.
Mark the drawing on the fabric with tailor’s
chalk.
Set fabric in the embroidery hoop and put it
under the needle.
Lower the presser bar to engage upper
thread tension. Holding upper thread with
right hand, turn the handwheel toward you.
Pull upper thread to let bobbin thread out of
fabric.
At medium speed, stitch along the marked
line.
After mending or embroidery sewing,
remove the darning plate and put back the
foot holder and foot.
q r w t e
Blind Hem Stitch
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
5 or 6
Blind hem foot
2 to 4
1 to 3
5
[A] q t w e r
[B] q y w z
Fold up the hem and fold it back to from a
1/4˝ (0.4 to 0.7cm) allowance as
illustrated.
q
Wrong side of the fabric w
1/4˝ (0.4 to 0.7 cm)
[A] Fold hem under the fabric for lightweight fabrics.
[B] On heavy weight fabrics tend to ravel, the raw edge should be overcast first.
x
Position the fabric so that the needle just
pierces the edge of the fold when the
needle swings to the extreme right.
Lower the presser foot.
c
Turn the guide screw to adjust the guide
aligning with the folded edge.
Sew along the folded edge guiding the
fabric so the needle catches the folded
edge.
e Guide screw r
Guide t
Folded edge v
Open the fold flat.
y Right side of the fabric
* If the needle drops far left, the stitches will
show on the right side of the fabric.
25
q r w t e q
SECTION 4. dECORATIVE
STITCHES
Shell Tuck
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
7
Zigzag foot
6 to 8
2 to 3
5
Use a lightweight fabric, such as tricot. Fold the fabric and stitch on the bias q. You may need to increase the needle thread tension slightly. Allow the needle to just clear the folded edge of the fabric.
If you sew rows of shell stitches, space the rows at least 5/8˝ (1.5 cm) apart. You can also sew shell stitches on knits or soft silky woven fabrics in any direction.
q
Bias
26
q r w t e
Smocking
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
1 and 4
Zigzag foot
1 to 4
S.S.
5 q
Choose a soft and lightweight fabric such as batiste, gingham or challis. Cut the fabric three times wider than the project width.
Increase the stitch length to “4” and loosen thread tension to “1”. Sew rows of straight stitches 3/8˝ (1 cm) apart across the area to be smocked.
q 3/8˝ (1 cm)
Knot the threads along one end. From the other end, pull the bobbin threads to distribute gathers evenly and secure the threads.
Return the thread tension to the original setting.
Sew rows of the smocking stitch between the gathering stitches.
Remove the gathering stitches after finished.
27
q r w t e
Applique
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
3
Zigzag foot
1 to 4
0.5 to 1
3 to 5
Baste applique pieces on the fabric, or fuse the applique pieces with an iron-on fabric joiner. Stitch around the applique, making sure the needle falls along the raw edge.
q r w t e
Box Stitch
q
Stitch pattern: w
Presser foot: e
Thread tension: r
Stitch length: t
Stitch width:
8
Zigzag foot
1 to 4
0.5 to 2
5
Overlap two raw edges of heavy weight interlining, and use this stitch to join them.
28
q r w t
4
3 e
5
Decorative Stitch Patterns
q
Stitch pattern: 9 to 12 w
Presser foot: Zigzag foot e
Thread tension: 1 to 4 r
Stitch length: 0.5 to 1 t
Stitch width: 5
For a delicate appearance on fabric such as chiffon, use a single layer with a tear-away backing, if necessary.
q w r t e
5
4
3
Stretch Stitch Patterns
q
Stitch pattern: 1 to 12 w
Presser foot: Zigzag foot e
Thread tension: 1 to 4 r
Stitch length: S.S.
t
Stitch width: 5
29
Decorative stretch patterns are used for adding a creative and personalized touch to items.
Carefully guide the fabric while sewing as the fabric moves back and forth.
When patterns are too compressed, turn the dial toward “ + ”.
When patterns are too drawn out, turn the dial toward “ – ” ( See page 13).
u q t r q e y w
SECTION 5. CARE OF yOUR
MACHINE
Cleaning the Bobbin Case and the
Shuttle Race
CAUTION:
Turn off the power switch and unplug the
machine before dismantling the sewing
machine.
• To dismantle shuttle race unit:
Raise the needle to its highest position and open the shuttle cover.
Open the hinged latch of bobbin case and take it out of the machine.
Open the shuttle race ring holders and remove the shuttle race ring.
Remove the shuttle.
* Clean the shuttle race with a brush and a
soft dry cloth.
q
Bobbin case
w
Shuttle race ring holder
e
Shuttle race ring
r
Shuttle
t
Shuttle race
• To assemble shuttle race unit:
Hold the shuttle by the center pin and fit it carefully back into the shuttle race, forming a perfect circle with the shuttle driver.
Attach the shuttle race ring making sure the bottom pin fits into the notch.
Lock the shuttle race ring by turning the holders back into position. Insert the bobbin case.
y
Pin
u
Notch
Cleaning the Feed Dog
CAUTION:
Turn off the power switch and unplug the machine before cleaning the feed dog.
Remove the needle and the presser foot.
Remove the needle plate setscrews and the needle plate.
q
Setscrew
With a brush, clean out any dust and lint clogging the feed dog teeth.
Reset the needle plate.
30
31
Sewing Light
The sewing light is located behind the face plate.
To change the bulb, take the face plate off the sewing machine by removing the cap and the setscrew.
Unplug the power supply before changing the bulb.
Do not dismantle the machine other than explained in this manual.
To remove ..... Push and twist to the left.
To replace ..... Push and twist to the right.
wARNINg
The bulb may be HOT. Protect your fingers when handling it.
Troubleshooting
Condition Cause Reference
The needle thread breaks.
1. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
2. The needle thread tension is too tight.
3. The needle is bent or blunt.
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
5. The needle thread and the bobbin thread are not set properly
under the presser foot at the beginning of sewing.
6. The threads are not drawn to the rear after previous sewing.
7. The thread is too heavy, or too fine for the needle.
Page 9
Page 11
Page 6
Page 6
Pages 10, 14
Page 14
Page 6
The bobbin thread breaks.
1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin
case and shuttle.
2. Lint has collected in the shuttle area.
3. The bobbin is damaged and doesn't turn smoothly.
Page 8, 10
Page 30
Change the bobbin
The needle breaks.
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle clamp screw is loose.
4. The needle thread tension is too tight.
5. The threads are not drawn to the rear after the previous sewing.
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn.
Skipped stitches
1. The needle is incorrectly inserted.
2. The needle is bent or blunt.
3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being
sewn.
4. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
5. The wrong needle is being used.
Seam puckering
1. The needle thread tension is too tight.
2. The needle thread is not threaded properly.
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn.
4. The stitch length is too long for the fabric.
The cloth is not feeding smoothly.
1. The feed dog is packed with lint.
2. The stitches are too fine.
Page 6
Page 6
Page 6
Page 11
Pages 10, 14
Page 6
Page 6
Page 6
Page 6
Page 9
Change the needle
Page 11
Page 9
Page 6
Make stitch shorter
Page 30
Make stitch longer
The machine doesn’t work.
1. The machine is not plugged in.
2. A thread is caught in the shuttle race.
3. The clutch is disengaged.
Noisy operation
Page 4
Page 30
Pages 7, 8
1. A thread is caught in the shuttle race.
2. Lint has built up in the shuttle or the shuttle race.
Page 30
Page 30
32
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Frequently Answers and Questions
How do I connect my sewing machine to the power supply?
How do I change the presser foot?
How do I change the needle?
How do I wind the bobbin?
How do I insert the bobbin?
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