STIHL MS 192 T

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STIH)

STIHL MS 192 T

20 05-0 2

Contents

3.

3.1

3.2

3.3

3.4

3.5

5.1

5.2

5.3

5.4

5.5

1.

2.

4.

4.1

4.2

4.3

4.4

4.5

4.6

4.7

5.

6.

6.1

Safety Precautions 4

8.

11.

Repairing the

AV System 60

8.1

Muffler / Spark

8.2

8.2.1

Arresting Screen

Leakage test

27

27

28

11.1

Annular Buffer 60

11.2

Front Handle / Spring 61

11.3

AV Spring between

Fuel System

Ignition System

Chain Lubrication

Tightening Torques

5

5

5

6

8.2.2

Vacuum test

8.2.3

Pressure test

8.3

8.4

28

29

Oil Seals 30

31

11.4

11.5

8.4.1

Removal

8.4.2

Installation

8.5

8.5.1

34

34

12.

Handle Housing /

Engine Housing

Loop

Actuating Levers

62

62

63

Rewind Starter

Ignition System

11

12

8.5.2

Installation

8.5.3

Crankshaft / Bearing 37

8.6

39

39

12.1

8.6.1

Removal

Throttle Trigger /

Interlock Lever /

Throttle Rod

12.2

Double Lever

Chain Drive,

Chain Brake, Chain

8.6.2

8.7

Installation

Piston rings 41

12.3

12.4

Switch Shaft

Handle Housing

Tensioner

Chain Lubrication 10

9.

Ignition System

9.1

Ignition Module

9.1.1

Removing and

42

42

13.

Chain Lubrication 68

13.1

Pick-up Body

13.2

Oil Suction Hose

63

64

65

66

68

68

Chain/ Spiked

16

Chain Catcher

Bumper Spike

Bumper Strips

17

17

18

9.2

9.3

installing

Ignition Timing 44

Testing the Ignition

44

13.3

13.4

Oil Pump 69

Valve

13.5

Oil Tank Filler Cap 71

Chain and Chain

16

Tensioning the Chain 17

9.4

9.5

9.6

Ignition Lead /

Spark Plug Boot

Short Circuit Wire

45

46

47

9.6.1

9.6.2

Removing and

9.7

Testing

Troubleshooting,

Ignition System

48

50

7.

7.1

7.2

7.3

Sprocket /

Clutch Drum 20

Checking Operation of Chain Brake 21

Removing and

21

Chain Tensioner 25

Bar Mounting Stud 26

10.

Rewind starter 53

10.1

General

10.2

Removing and

53

10.3

Pawls

10.4

Rope Rotor 54

10.5

Starter Rope / Grip 55

10.6

Tensioning the Rewind

Spring

10.7

Replacing the Rewind

10.8

Spring

Starter Rope Guide

MS 192 T q

© ANDREAS STIHL AG & Co. KG, 2005

1

Contents

14.

Fuel System 72

14.1

Air Filter

14.1.1 Air Filter Base

14.2

Carburetor, Removing and Installing

72

73

73

14.2.1 Leakage Test

14.3

Carburetor Repair

74

75

14.3.1 Metering Diaphragm 75

14.3.2 Inlet Needle 76

14.3.3 Fixed Jet

14.3.4 Pump Diaphragm

77

77

14.3.5 Choke Shaft / Choke

78

14.3.6 Throttle Shaft /

Throttle Shutter

14.3.7 Accelerator Pump

14.3.8 Adjusting screws

80

81

82

14.4

Carburetor

Adjustment

14.4.1 Basic Setting

14.4.2 User Setting

83

84

14.5

Intake Elbow,

Removing and

Installing

14.5.1 Impulse Hose 87

14.6

Tank Vent 88

88

14.6.2 Removing and

89

14.7

Fuel Intake

14.7.1 Pick-up Body

14.8

Fuel Hoses

14.8.1 Fuel Pump

89

89

90

92

14.8.2 Fuel Tank Filler Cap 93

14.8.3 Tank Housing,

Removing and

93

15.

Special Servicing

94

16.

Servicing Aids 96

2 MS 192 T

1.

Introduction

This service manual contains detailed descriptions of all the typical repair and servicing procedures for this power tool.

Refer to the illustrated spare parts lists during all repair work. These lists show the installation position and order in which the individual parts and modules should be assembled.

Refer to the latest edition of the relevant parts list to check the part numbers of any replacement parts required.

A fault on the machine may be due to several causes. To help locate the fault, consult the chapter on

"Troubleshooting" and the

"STIHL Service Training System" for all function groups.

Refer to the "Technical Information" bulletins for engineering changes which have been introduced since publication of this service manual.

Technical information bulletins also supplement the parts list and service manual until an updated edition is issued.

The special tools mentioned in the descriptions are listed in the chapter

"Special Servicing Tools" of this manual. Use the part numbers to identify the tools in the STIHL

Special Tools manual.

It lists all the special servicing tools currently available from STIHL.

Symbols are included in the text and pictures for greater clarity.

The meanings are as follows:

In the text:

: = Action to be taken

as shown in the illustration

above the text

– = Action to be taken

but not shown in the illustration

above the text

In the illustrations:

A Item pointer (short) aDirection of movement (long arrow) b 4.2 = Reference to another chapter, i.e. to chapter 4.2 in this case.

Service manuals and technical information bulletins are intended exclusively for the use of properly equipped repair shops. They must not be passed on to third parties.

3

2 1 1

Servicing and repairs are made considerably easier if the machine is mounted on assembly stand (3)

5910 890 3100. For this purpose, secure the clamp (2) 5910 890 2000 to the assembly stand with two screws (1). Engage the adjusting screw and stud in the outer holes of the clamp and secure the chainsaw with the nut (arrow).

The sprocket cover and bar and chain must be removed first; pull the hand guard back against the front handle for this purpose.

Always use original STIHL replacement parts.

They can be identified by the STIHL part number

STIH) logo and the

STIHL parts symbol (

The symbol may appear alone on small parts.

MS 192 T 3

2.

Safety Precautions

Specific national safety regulations and the safety instructions in the instruction manual must be observed if the machine has to be started up during maintenance or repair work.

Petrol is highly inflammable and can also be explosive under certain conditions.

Improper handling may result in burns and other serious injuries.

Do not bring any fire, flame, spark or other source of heat near the fuel.

All work with fuel must be performed outdoors only. Spilled fuel must be wiped away immediately.

4 MS 192 T

3.

Specifications

3.1

Engine

Displacement:

Bore:

Stroke:

Engine power to ISO 7293

Max. permissible engine speed

(with bar and chain):

Idle speed:

Clutch:

Clutch engages at:

Crankcase leakage test at gauge pressure: under vacuum

3.2

Fuel System

3.3

3.4

Ignition System

Chain Lubrication

MS 192 T

30.1 cm 3

37 mm

28 mm

1.3 kW (1.8 HP) at 9500 rpm

13500 rpm

3000 rpm

Centrifugal clutch without linings

4150 rpm

0.5 bar

0.5 bar

Carburetor leakage test at gauge pressure:

Operation of tank vent at gauge pressure:

Fuel:

0.8 bar

0.3 bar as specified in instruction manual

Air gap between ignition module and fanwheel:

Spark plug (suppressed):

Electrode gap:

0.15...0.35 mm

NGK BPMR 7 A

0.5 mm

Fully automatic, speed-controlled oil pump with rotary piston

Oil delivery rate: 6.5 - 8.5 cm³ at 10,000 rpm

MS 192 T 5

3.5

Tightening Torques

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Nut

Screw

Nut

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Screw

Collar screw

Screw

Screw

Nut

Nut

Nut

DG screws are used in polymer and light metal components. These screws form a permanent thread when they are installed for the first time. Screws can be removed and installed as often as necessary without impairing the strength of the screwed assembly, provided that the specified tightening torque is observed.

For this reason, it is essential to use a torque wrench.

Fastener Thread size For component

DG 4x15

D 6x13

DG 8x18

B 4.2x9.5

P 4x12

M 5

Chain tensioner cover plate / engine housing

Collar screw for guide bar, rear

Collar screw for guide bar, front

Cover plate/ screen/ muffler

Cover/ sprocket cover/ engine housing tensioner

Filter base/ handle housing, 1st stage aluminium

Filter base/ handle housing, 1st stage M 5

M 5

M 5

P 6x19

P 4x12

P 6x19

DG 5x20

P 5x16

P 5x16

Filter base/ handle housing, 2nd stage aluminium

Filter base/ handle housing, 2nd stage

Handle housing/ front handle

Handle moulding/ handle housing

Retaining plate/ loop/ engine housing

Engine pan/ cylinder

Bearing plug/ handle housing

Bearing plug/ engine housing, sprocket side

P 5x16

P 5x16

Bearing plug/ engine housing, fan side

Fan housing/ engine housing

M 8x1 L Carrier

DG 5x20Z Engine housing/ cylinder

DG 4x20

P 4x12

P 5x29.6

DG 5x20

Oil pump/ engine pan

Annular buffer, support/ engine housing

Annular buffer/ handle housing

Muffler / cylinder

M 8X1 Flywheel/ crankshaft

M 14x1.25

Spark plug

DG 4x20 Ignition module/ cylinder

Tightening torque

Nm

1,5

2,0

2,5

2,5

6,0

16,0

2,0

2,5

4,5

2,5

5,0

9,0

4,0

4,0

25,0

8,0

18,0

25,0

4,5

3,5

6,0

1,5

6,0

8,0

4,0

4,0

Remarks

6 MS 192 T

Use the following procedure when refitting a DG screw in an existing thread:

Place the screw in the hole and rotate it anticlockwise until it drops down slightly.

Tighten the screw clockwise to the specified torque.

This procedure ensures that the screw engages properly in the existing thread and does not form a new thread and weaken the assembly.

Screwdriver speed when used in plastic material: DG screws max. 500 rpm.

MS 192 T 7

4.

4.1

Troubleshooting

Clutch

Problem Cause

Saw chain stops under load at full throttle

Clutch shoes badly worn

Clutch drum badly worn

Remedy

Install new clutch

Install new clutch drum

Saw chain rotates at idle speed

Loud noises

Idle speed too high Readjust with idle speed screw LA

(anticlockwise)

Clutch springs stretched or fatigued Replace clutch springs or install new clutch

Clutch spring hooks broken Replace clutch springs

Clutch springs stretched or fatigued Replace all clutch springs

Needle cage damaged Fit new needle cage

Clutch shoe retainer broken

Clutch shoes and carrier worn

Fit new retainer

Install new clutch

8 MS 192 T

4.2

Chain Drive, Chain Brake, Chain Tensioner

Problem

Chain sprocket wears rapidly

Cause

Chain not properly tensioned

Wrong chain pitch

Insufficient chain lubrication

Chain sprocket worn

Saw chain stops under load at full throttle

Clutch shoes badly worn

Clutch drum badly worn

Remedy

Tension chain as specified

Fit chain of correct pitch

Check chain lubrication

Fit new chain sprocket

Install new clutch

Install new clutch drum

Saw chain rotates at idle speed

Saw chain does not stop immediately when brake is activated

Brake band stuck Check freedom of movement and function of brake band

Idle speed too high Readjust with idle speed screw LA

(anticlockwise)

Clutch springs stretched or fatigued Replace clutch springs or install new clutch

Clutch spring hooks broken Replace clutch springs

Brake spring stretched or broken Fit new brake spring

Brake band stretched, worn or broken

Clutch drum worn

Fit new brake band

Install new clutch drum

MS 192 T 9

4.3

Chain Lubrication

In the event of trouble with the chain lubrication system, check and rectify other sources of faults before disassembling the oil pump.

Problem

Chain receives no oil

.

Cause

Oil tank empty

Remedy

Fill up with oil

Oil inlet hole in guide bar is blocked Clean oil inlet hole

Machine losing chain oil

Oil pump delivers insufficient oil

Intake hose or pick-up body clogged or intake hose ruptured

Valve in oil tank blocked

Worm worn

Oil pump damaged or worn

Oil pump housing defective

Oil pump damaged or worn

Oil pump worn

Fit new intake hose and pick-up body

Clean or replace valve

Replace worm

Replace oil pump

Replace oil pump

Replace oil pump

Replace oil pump

10 MS 192 T

4.4

Rewind Starter

Problem

Starter rope broken

Cause Remedy

Rope pulled out too vigorously as far as stop or over edge, i.e. not vertically

Fit new starter rope

Normal wear Fit new starter rope

Starter rope does not rewind Rewind spring broken

Spring insufficiently tensioned

Very dirty or corroded

Starter rope cannot be pulled out far enough

Rewind spring overtensioned

Starter rope can be pulled out almost without resistance

(crankshaft does not turn)

Guide peg on pawls or pawls themselves are worn

Spring clip fatigued

Starter rope is difficult to pull and rewinds very slowly

Starter mechanism is very dirty

Replacing the rewind spring

Check rewind spring and increase tension

Clean or replace rewind spring

Check rewind spring and reduce tension

Fit new pawls

Fit new spring clip

Thoroughly clean complete starter mechanism

MS 192 T 11

4.5

Ignition System

Exercise extreme caution while carrying out maintenance and repair work on the ignition system. The high voltages which occur can cause serious or fatal accidents.

Problem

Engine runs roughly, misfires, temporary loss of power

Cause

Spark plug boot is loose

Remedy

Press boot firmly onto spark plug and fit new spring if necessary

Spark plug sooted, smeared with oil Clean the spark plug or replace if necessary

Incorrect air gap between ignition module and flywheel

Set air gap correctly

Flywheel cracked or has other damage or pole shoes have turned blue

Install new flywheel

Ignition timing wrong, flywheel out of adjustment, key in flywheel has sheared off

Install new flywheel

Weak magnetization in flywheel – pole shoes have turned blue

Install new flywheel

Irregular spark Check operation of switch shaft and ignition module

Faulty insulation on ignition lead or short circuit wire, check ignition lead / ignition module and replace if necessary.

Check operation of spark plug

Clean the spark plug or replace if necessary

Crankcase damaged (cracks) Replace crankcase

12 MS 192 T

4.6

Carburetor

Problem

Carburetor floods; engine stalls

Poor acceleration

Cause

Inlet needle not sealing.

Foreign matter in valve seat or cone

Inlet control lever sticking on spindle

Remedy

Remove and clean inlet needle or clean carburetor

Restore easy movement of inlet control lever

Helical spring not located on nipple of inlet control lever

Remove the inlet control lever and refit it correctly

Perforated disc on diaphragm is deformed and presses constantly against the inlet control lever

Fit a new metering diaphragm

Idle jet too lean

Main jet too lean

Turn low speed screw L anticlockwise (richer), until engine accelerates smoothly

Turn high speed screw H anticlockwise (richer), no further than stop

Inlet control lever too low (relative to correct installed position)

Set inlet control lever flush with top edge of housing

Inlet needle sticking to valve seat Remove inlet needle, clean and refit

Diaphragm gasket leaking

Metering diaphragm damaged or shrunk

Impulse hose damaged or kinked

Replace diaphragm gasket

Fit new metering diaphragm

Fit new impulse hose

MS 192 T 13

Problem Cause Remedy

Engine will not idle, idle speed too high

Throttle shutter opened too wide by idle speed screw LA

Reset idle speed screw LA correctly

Oil seals / crankcase leaking Seal or replace oil seals / crankcase

Engine stops when idling Idle jet bores or ports blocked

Idle jet too rich or too lean

Setting of idle speed screw incorrect – throttle shutter completely closed

Clean the carburetor

Set low speed screw L correctly

Reset idle speed screw LA correctly

Engine speed drops quickly under load – low power

Air filter dirty

Throttle shutter not opened fully

Tank vent faulty

Fuel pick-up body dirty

Fuel strainer dirty

Clean the air filter

Check linkage

Clean tank vent or replace if necessary

Clean the pick-up body or replace if necessary

Clean fuel strainer in carburetor or replace if necessary

Leak in fuel line between tank and fuel pump

Seal connections or install a new fuel line

Setting of high speed screw H too rich

Turn the high speed screw H clockwise (leaner) – max. up to the stop.

Main jet bores or ports blocked Clean the carburetor

Pump diaphragm damaged or fatigued

Impulse hose damaged or kinked

Fit new pump diaphragm

Fit new impulse hose

14 MS 192 T

4.7

Engine

Always check and, if necessary, repair the following parts before looking for faults on the engine:

– Air filter

– Fuel system

– Carburetor

– Ignition System

Problem Cause

Engine does not start easily, stalls at idle speed but operates normally at full throttle

Oil seals in crankgear damaged

Crankcase leaking or damaged

(cracks)

Remedy

Replace the oil seals

Seal or replace the crankcase

Engine does not deliver full power or runs erratically

Piston rings worn or broken Replace piston rings

Muffler / spark arresting screen carbonized

Clean the muffler (inlet and exhaust), replace spark arresting screen, replace muffler if necessary

Replace air filter Air filter dirty

Fuel / impulse hose severely kinked or damaged

Fit new hoses and route them without kinks

Engine overheating Insufficient cylinder cooling. Air inlets in fan housing blocked or cooling fins on cylinder very dirty

Thoroughly clean all cooling air openings and the cylinder fins

MS 192 T 15

5.

5.1

Chain/ Spiked Bumper

Chain and Chain Guide

1 1

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Tension the chain,

b 5.2

– Tightening torques, b 3.5

Wear protective gloves

– risk of injury –

: Disengage the chain brake by pulling the hand guard (1) towards the front handle until it engages.

2

: Slide the guide bar (1) towards the clutch and remove the chain from the guide bar.

– Remove the guide bar (1).

– Remove the chain (2) via the sprocket.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

: Unscrew the hex nut (arrow).

: Turn the screw anticlockwise to relax the chain.

1

: Unscrew the nut (arrow) and remove the sprocket cover (1).

: Fit the sprocket cover, ensuring that the peg (arrow) engages in the hole.

16 MS 192 T

5.2

Tensioning the Chain 5.3

Chain Catcher 5.4

Bumper Spike

1

1

: Turn the screw clockwise to tension the chain.

: Tighten the hex nut (arrow).

2

Sprocket cover with integrally moulded chain catcher (1).

If the chain catcher has broken (2), file down the stub and replace with a replacement chain catcher (3).

– Remove the sprocket cover and bar and chain,

b 5.1

– Remove the chain catcher,

b 5.3

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: Remove the spiked bumper (1).

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

1 3

The chain (1) is correctly tensioned when it rests against the underside of the chain guide (arrow) and can be pulled over the guide bar by hand when the chain brake is released.

If the chain is tensioned excessively, this may result in damage to the chain, guide bar and sprocket, as well as its needle bearing.

– Remove the sprocket cover and bar and chain,

b 5.1

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: Remove the chain catcher (3).

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

MS 192 T 17

5.5

Bumper Strips 6.

Clutch

Bumper strips are fitted on the engine housing to guide the saw chain.

Worn bumper strips must be replaced, otherwise the engine housing may be damaged.

Remove the sprocket cover and bar and chain,

b 5.1

– Troubleshooting,

b 4.1

– Remove the sprocket cover and bar and chain,

b 5.1

1

: Unscrew the spark plug (1).

1

1

1

: Prise off the bumper strips (1) with a suitable tool.

1

: Release the twist lock (arrow).

: Remove carburetor box cover (1) to the rear.

: Push the locking strip (1)

0000 893 5903 into the spark plug hole so that "OBEN-TOP" faces down.

1

: Insert the bumper strips so that the peg is aligned in the recess

(arrows).

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

1

: Apply a suitable tool to the tab

(arrow) to prise the boot off the spark plug (1).

: Unscrew the clutch (1).

The clutch has a left-hand thread.

18 MS 192 T

1 2 2

1

1

Disassembly

: Use hook (2) 5910 890 2800 to remove the clutch springs (1).

: Slip the retainers (1) onto the clutch shoes.

: Attach one end of the clutch spring (1) to the clutch shoes.

: Use the hook (2) 5910 890 2800 to attach the other end of the spring and press it firmly into the clutch shoe.

1 2

1

– Pull the clutch shoes off the carrier.

: Pull the retainers (1) off the clutch shoes.

: Fit the clutch shoes over the arms (1) so that the series number (2) is on the same side as the raised hexagon (arrow).

– Clean all parts.

– Replace any damaged parts.

: Clamp the clutch in a vice

(arrow).

1137

137

1137

The tips of the retainers (arrows) must match one another on the side with the raised hexagon and the series numbers must be visible on the clutch shoes.

MS 192 T 19

6.1

Sprocket / Clutch Drum

1

1

: Fit the clutch on the crankshaft stub so that the raised hexagon

(arrow) is visible.

– Remove the clutch,

b 6

: Draw the sprocket (1) off the crankshaft stub.

100%

80%

!

– Examine the sprocket (1) for signs of wear.

If there are distinct signs of wear on the inside diameter of the sprocket

(1), the remaining thickness must be measured. The sprocket must be replaced if less than 80% of the original thickness remain.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

1

1

: Screw the clutch (1) with hexagon (arrow) onto the crankshaft stub and tighten it down.

: Tightening torques, b 3.5

– Pull the locking strip out of the cylinder.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Remove the needle cage (1) from the sprocket.

– Clean the needle cage and crankshaft stub with standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

1

20

– Grease the needle cage and

crankshaft stub, b 16

: Slip the needle cage (1) onto the crankshaft stub.

MS 192 T

1

: Slip sprocket (1) onto crankshaft stub.

The sprocket must engage the studs (arrow) of the wormwheel.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

7.

Checking Operation of

Chain Brake

The chain brake is one of the most important safety devices on the chainsaw. Its efficiency is measured in terms of the chain braking time, i.e. the time that elapses between activating the brake and the saw chain coming to a complete standstill. The shorter the braking time, the better the efficiency and protection offered against being injured by the rotating chain.

The coefficient of friction is impaired by contamination (with chain oil, chips, fine particles of abrasion, etc.) and smoothing of the friction surfaces on the brake band and clutch drum. This in turn reduces the frictional forces and thus prolongs the braking time. A fatigued or stretched brake spring has the same negative effect.

– Start the engine.

– With the chain brake activated

(locked), open the throttle wide for a brief period

(max. 3 seconds) – the chain must not rotate.

– With the chain brake released, open the throttle wide and activate the brake manually – the chain must come to an abrupt stop.

The braking time is in order if deceleration of the saw chain is imperceptible to the eye.

If the chain brake does not operate properly, see troubleshooting chart,

b 4.2.

7.1

1

Removing and Installing

Removal

– Troubleshooting,

b 4.2

– Remove the sprocket cover and bar and chain,

b 5.1

: Engage the chain brake by pushing the hand guard (1) downwards.

The brake spring of the brake band is now relaxed.

: Take out the screws (arrows).

MS 192 T 21

1

– Draw the hand guard (1) out through the opening in the cover

(arrow).

: Remove the cover (1).

Install a new brake band if there are noticeable signs of wear (large areas on inside diameter and/or parts of outside diameter) and its remaining thickness is less than

0.6 mm.

2 1 1 2

: Carefully ease the brake spring

(1) off the anchor pin (arrow).

: Unhook the brake spring (1) from the brake lever (2).

: Remove the E-clip (arrow).

1

: Remove the inlay (1) and leaf spring (2).

Clean all disassembled parts with a little standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

– Examine the inlay and leaf spring and replace if necessary.

1

: Disconnect the brake band (1) from the lever (arrow) and remove it.

2

: Remove the hand guard (2) with lever (1) from the pivot pins.

– Pull the lever out of the hand guard.

22 MS 192 T

1

1

1 a

Wet the inlay (1) with Loctite before

fitting it, b 16

: Press the inlay (1) as far as possible into the opening in the cover.

: Pull the pin (1) out of the cover with a suitable tool.

: Carefully drive the pin (1) home, tapping lightly, until value "a" approx. 4.3...4.7 mm is reached.

The pin must be driven in squarely.

1 1

1

: Place the leaf spring (1) in the opening (arrow).

– Lightly grease both the leaf spring and the pin of the inlay.

The anchor pin must be replaced if the groove in the brake spring anchor pin is worn. Proceed as follows:

– Wet the knurled area of the new pin (1) with Loctite before fitting it,

b 16

: Position the new pin (1) in the bore so that the knurling on the pin meshes with the existing knurling in the bore. Turn the pin back and forth as necessary.

: Prise off the bumper strip (1) with a suitable tool.

– Check the bumper strip and replace it if necessary.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

1

MS 192 T

: Slide the lever (1) through the opening in the cover.

23

1

2

The forked opening (2) must face towards the brake band.

: Insert the lever (1) in the side of the bearing boss (arrow).

1

2

Coat all sliding and bearing points with STIHL multi-purpose grease,

b 16

Do not grease the brake band.

1

: The turns of the brake spring must lie tightly against one another when relaxed. If this is not the case, replace the brake spring.

Check correct position of the protective tube.

a = 31 mm b = 44 mm

Ensure that the holes in the lever inside the hand guard are lined up.

: Slip the bearing boss of the hand guard (1) and lever (2) onto the pivot pins.

: Attach the brake band (1) to the brake lever (arrow).

1

1

1

When fitting the parts, ensure that the cam (arrow) on the hand guard is guided past the leaf spring.

: Insert the brake band (1) in the opening (arrow).

: Attach the brake spring (1) to the brake lever (arrow).

24 MS 192 T

1

2

7.2

Chain Tensioner

– Remove the sprocket cover and bar and chain,

b 5.1

– Troubleshooting, b 4.2

1

: Pull the complete chain tensioner

(1) out with a suitable tool.

: Use the assembly tool (2)

1117 890 0900 to attach the brake spring (1) to the anchor pin

(arrow).

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

Before fitting the sprocket cover, pull the hand guard up until it engages. The chain brake is now open and can be slipped over the sprocket.

– Check operation of the chain brake,

b 7

2

1

1 4 3 2

: Turn the spur gear (2) clockwise until the tensioner slide (1) makes contact on the right and the screw

(arrow) is revealed.

: Examine the thrust pad (1), spur gear (2), adjusting screw (3) and tensioner slide (4) and replace if necessary.

1

MS 192 T

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: Pull the thrust pad (1) off the adjusting screw.

25

7.3

Bar Mounting Stud

2 1

1

: Pull the spur gear (1) out of the hole in the cover (2).

: Turn the adjusting screw (arrow) until the tensioner slide has been unwound completely.

2 1

– Clean all disassembled parts with a little standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons. Replace any damaged or worn parts.

Always replace the adjusting screw and spur gear together.

– Ensure that the parts are installed in the correct order.

– Check correct functioning.

– Coat the threads and gear wheels with STIHL multi-purpose grease,

b 16

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Check correct functioning again.

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

– Fit the stud puller on the collar stud (1).

1

: Push the stud puller (1)

5910 893 0501 over the collar stud as far as possible and unscrew the collar stud anticlockwise.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Fit the collar stud and tighten it down firmly.

– Tightening torques, b 3.5

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Remove the adjusting screw (1) from the cover (2).

26 MS 192 T

8.

8.1

Engine

Muffler / Spark Arresting

Screen

Check and if necessary repair the fuel supply, carburetor, air filter and ignition system before looking for faults on the engine.

– Troubleshooting,

b 8.1

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

: Take out the screws (arrows).

8.2

Leakage test

Defective oil seals and gaskets or cracks in housing are the usual causes of leaks. Such faults allow supplementary air to enter the engine and upset the fuel-air mixture.

This makes adjustment of the prescribed idle speed difficult, if not impossible.

Moreover, the transition from idle speed to part or full throttle is not smooth.

Always start with the vacuum test and then continue with the pressure test.

The crankcase can be thoroughly checked for leaks with the carburetor and crankcase tester and the vacuum pump.

: Remove the screw (arrow).

– Remove and examine the muffler, replace if necessary.

– Clean the sealing faces.

A gasket is not fitted between muffler and cylinder.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

1

2

: Remove the cover plate (2) and spark arresting screen (1) if fitted.

– Clean the spark arresting screen

(1) or replace if necessary.

MS 192 T 27

8.2.1

Preparations 8.2.2

Vacuum test

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

– Set the piston to the top dead centre. This can be checked through the inlet port.

– Fit the spark plug and tighten it down firmly.

2

: Ensure that the sleeve (1) and washer (2) are in place.

1

Oil seals tend to fail when subjected to a vacuum. In other words, the sealing lip lifts away from the crankshaft during the piston's induction stroke because there is no internal counterpressure.

An additional test can be carried out with the vacuum pump to detect this kind of fault.

1 1

1

: Undo the screws (arrows).

: Fit the sealing plate (1)

0000 855 8106 between the muffler and cylinder exhaust port and tighten down the screws moderately.

The sealing plate must fill the full width between the screws.

– Remove the carburetor, b 14.2

: Remove the socket head screw

(1) from the test flange

1128 850 4200.

1

: Connect the suction hose (1) of the vacuum pump

0000 850 3501 to the nipple

(arrow).

0,8

0,6

0,4

500

400

300

200

100

600

700

0

0,2

1,0

– Fit the test flange

1128 850 4200 (1).

: Screw on the nuts (arrows) and tighten them down firmly.

1 2

: Close the vent screw (1).

: Operate lever (2) until the pressure gauge (arrow) indicates a vacuum of 0.5 bar.

28 MS 192 T

8.2.3

Pressure test

If the vacuum reading remains constant, or does not decrease by more than 0.3 bar within

20 seconds, it may be assumed that the oil seals are in good condition.

If the vacuum in the crankcase is reduced further, the oil seals must be replaced.

– After finishing the test, open the vent screw and disconnect the hose.

– Remove the test flange.

– Install the carburetor,

b 14.2

– Release the muffler and pull out the sealing plate.

– Tighten down the muffler.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Continue with pressure test

b 8.2.3

Carry out the same preparations as for the vacuum test,

b 8.2.2

1

: Connect pressure hose (1) of tester 1106 850 2905 to nipple

(arrow).

0,2

0

0,4

0,6

0,8

1,0

: Pump air into the crankcase with the rubber bulb until the gauge

(arrow) indicates a pressure of

0.5 bar. If this pressure remains constant for at least 20 seconds, the crankcase is airtight.

– If the pressure drops, the leak must be located and the faulty part replaced.

To find the leak, coat the suspect area with oil and pressurize the crankcase. Bubbles will appear if a leak exists.

– After finishing the test, open the vent screw and disconnect the hose of tester 1106 850 2905.

– Continue with vacuum test

b 8.2.2

: Close vent screw (1) on the rubber bulb.

1

MS 192 T 29

8.3

Oil Seals

2

1

Use oil seal (1) 9639 003 1206 for installation on the closed crankcase.

Use oil seal (2) 9639 003 1205 for installation on the open crankcase.

It is not necessary to disassemble the complete engine in order to replace the oil seals.

– Clamp the puller arms.

– Pull out the oil seal.

Avoid damage to the crankshaft stub.

– Clean the sealing face with a little standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

– Grease the sealing lips of the oil seal,

b 16

Clutch side

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

– Remove the clutch,

b 6

– Remove the oil pump, b 13.3

1

Ignition side

– Remove fan housing, b 10.2

– Remove the flywheel,

b 9.5

2

– Free off the oil seal in its seat by tapping it with a suitable tube or a punch.

: Apply puller 5910 890 4400 with

No. 3.1 jaws 0000 893 3706.

30

– Apply sealing compound to the outside diameter of the oil seals,

b 16

: Use the press sleeve (2)

4112 893 2401 to install the oil sleeve (1).

The seating face must be flat and free from burrs.

– Turn the crankshaft through several times after approx.

1 minute.

– The crankshaft taper must be free from grease, therefore clean it with a little standard solventbased degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Free off the oil seal in its seat by tapping it with a suitable tube or a punch.

: Apply puller 5910 890 4400 with

No. 3.1 jaws 0000 893 3706.

– Clamp the puller arms.

– Pull out the oil seal.

Avoid damage to the crankshaft stub.

– Clean the sealing face with a little standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

– Grease the sealing lips of the oil

seal, b 16

MS 192 T

8.4

Engine

8.4.1

Removal

1

2

– Apply sealing compound to the outside diameter of the oil seals,

b 16

So that the oil seal can be pressed in as far as possible, the flat side of the press sleeve (arrow) must be aligned with the shoulder on the crankcase.

: Press in the oil seal (2) with press sleeve (1) 4112 893 2401.

– Turn the crankshaft through several times after approx.

1 minute.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

The complete engine must be removed before disassembling the piston or cylinder.

– Remove the sprocket cover and bar and chain,

b 5.1

– Remove the muffler,

b 8.1

– Remove the clutch,

b 6

– Remove the oil pump,

b 13.3

– Remove fan housing,

b 10.2

– Remove the ignition module,

b 9.1

– Remove the flywheel,

b 9.5

: Remove the screw (arrow).

1

: Prise off the supporting plate (1) with a suitable tool.

1 1

MS 192 T

: Remove the cover (1).

: Lift the handle housing (1) slightly and pull the manifold off the intake stub (arrow).

31

8.4.2

Installation

1

: Pull out the insulating plate (1), pressing the locking lug together at the bottom guide (arrow).

: Remove the screws (arrows) from underneath the engine housing.

: Push engine into engine housing.

1

: Disconnect the impulse hose (1) from the stub (arrow).

: Lift the handle housing slightly until the manifold flange lifts off the intake stub.

: Lift the handle housing slightly so that the intake stub can be positioned in relation to the manifold when fitting the engine.

: Remove the screws (arrows) on the carburetor side.

: Pull the engine out of the engine housing.

: Fit the screws (arrows) and tighten them down only moderately.

32 MS 192 T

: Fit the screws (arrows) and tighten them down only moderately.

Before tightening the screws down firmly, the engine must be centred in relation to the sprocket cover and guide bar.

: Guide the peg (arrow) into the hole and fit the sprocket cover.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Remove the sprocket cover again.

– Mount the machine on the assembly stand again and continue with the installation procedure.

1

1

: The pin (1) must be lined up with the hole (arrow) when fitting the sprocket cover.

: Push the manifold (1) onto the intake stub.

– Coat the manifold with STIHL

Press Fluid,

b 16

1

: Unscrew the nut (arrow) and remove the machine from the assembly stand.

– Fit the guide bar.

1

: Tighten down the nut (arrow) and secure the sprocket cover (1).

– Now tighten down the screws securing the engine.

The tab (arrow) must point towards the saw chain.

: Press in the supporting plate (1).

MS 192 T 33

1

8.5

Crankshaft

8.5.1

Removal

Ensure that the supporting plate rests securely on the engine housing at all points (arrows).

: Push the insulating plate (1) into the guides (arrows) until it engages at the bottom.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Take out the screws (arrows).

1

: Insert and tighten down the screw (1).

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

1

: Connect the impulse hose (1) to the stub (arrow).

34

: Apply a suitable tool at the projections (arrows) of the engine pan, then tap lightly to release and lift off the engine pan.

: Remove the crankshaft from the bearing seats (arrows).

MS 192 T

8.5.2

Installation

1

2

1

: Pull the oil seals (arrows) off the crankshaft stubs.

– Coat the piston, piston rings and inside of cylinder with oil.

: Use the clamping strap (1)

1137 893 2600 to compress the rings around the piston.

The clamping strap (1) must be fitted so that the arrow (2) points towards the cylinder exhaust port and is lined up with the arrow

(arrow) at the bottom of the piston.

– Check that the piston rings have been installed correctly.

For clarity, the piston is not shown in this illustration of the clamping strap fitted in the cylinder.

: Insert the clamping strap with piston in the cylinder so that the tab (1) on the clamping strap engages the correspondingly shaped recess (arrow).

When sliding the piston into the cylinder, ensure that the clamping strap firmly encloses the piston and that none of the piston rings protrudes.

– risk of breakage –

: Carefully pull the crankshaft and piston out of the cylinder.

MS 192 T

: Align the piston and crankshaft before inserting them in the cylinder.

The cylindrical crankshaft stub

(arrow) must point towards the cylinder exhaust port.

– Slide the piston into the cylinder, the clamping strap moves backwards at the same time.

: Remove the clamping strap.

35

2

1

: Check and clean the mating faces (arrows) on the cylinder.

Mating faces must be absolutely clean and undamaged.

Parts with damaged mating faces must be replaced.

Whenever the engine pan has been disassembled, the mating faces must be cleaned and fresh sealing compound applied,

b 16

Use oil seal (1) 9639 003 1206 for installation on the closed crankcase.

Use oil seal (2) 9639 003 1205 for installation on the open crankcase.

: Fit the crankshaft with bearings and oil seals in the bearing guides on the cylinder, taking care to ensure that the oil seals are flush (arrow).

1

: Slip new oil seals onto the crankshaft stub with the open side facing the crankshaft.

– Check and clean the mating faces on the engine pan.

Mating faces must be absolutely clean and undamaged. Parts with damaged mating faces must be replaced.

: Apply sealing compound to the groove on the circumference

(arrows)

b 16

Before closing the crankcase, ensure that the cylindrical crankshaft stub (1) is on the side of the cylinder exhaust port (arrow).

: Apply sealing compound to the outside diameter (arrows) of the

oil seals, b 16

36 MS 192 T

8.5.3

Crankshaft / Bearing

– Remove the engine,

b 8.4.1

– Remove the crankshaft,

b 8.5.1

1

: Place the engine pan on the sealing surface of the cylinder, ensuring that the lug (arrow) faces the cylindrical crankshaft stub (1).

1

3 2 1

: The crankshaft (1), connecting rod (2), the needle bearing between them and the needle bearing (3) form an inseparable unit. They must always be replaced as a complete unit.

The deep groove ball bearings and oil seals must always be replaced when installing a new crankshaft.

– Before installing the crankshaft, clean it with standard solventbased degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

So that the sealing compound is distributed uniformly, fit the screws and gently press the engine pan down.

: Tighten the screws (arrows) down crosswise.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

Avoid damage to the crankshaft stub.

– Clean the crankshaft stub with standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

– Install the engine,

b 8.4.2

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Remove the ball bearing (1) and washer.

1

: Remove the ball bearing (1) and washer.

: Fit the washer (1).

1

MS 192 T 37

1

1

: Fit the ball bearing with the closed side (arrow) facing outwards.

– Heat the inner race of the deep groove ball bearing to approx.

150 °C (300 °F).

– Slip the deep groove ball bearing onto the crankshaft stub as far as the washer.

The ball bearing must be fitted rapidly as the heat is transmitted to the crankshaft stub and the inner raceway contracts again.

: Fit the washer (1).

: If the ball bearing cannot be heated, it must be pressed in with a suitable sleeve (1) until the ball bearing rests against the washer.

1

: Fit the ball bearing with the closed side (arrow) facing outwards.

– Heat the inner race of the deep groove ball bearing to approx.

150 °C (300 °F).

– Slip the deep groove ball bearing onto the crankshaft stub as far as the washer.

The ball bearing must be fitted rapidly as the heat is transmitted to the crankshaft stub and the inner raceway contracts again.

: If the ball bearing cannot be heated, it must be pressed in with a suitable sleeve (1) until the ball bearing rests against the washer.

– Coat the needle bearing with oil.

– Install the piston,

b 8.6.2

– Install the crankshaft and oil seals,

b 8.5.2

– Install the engine,

b 8.4.2

38 MS 192 T

8.6

Piston

8.6.1

Removal

Remove the engine,

b 8.4.1

Remove the crankshaft,

b 8.5.1

8.6.2

Installation

2 1

1

: Push the piston pin (1) out of the piston with the assembly drift (2)

1114 893 4700.

If the piston pin is stuck, lightly tap the end of the assembly drift with a hammer to loosen it.

The piston must be held steady during this process to ensure that jolts are not transmitted to the connecting rod.

– Coat the needle cage with oil.

: Align the piston so that the side with the bulge for the snap ring

(arrow) is on the same side as the tapered crankshaft stub (1).

– Position the piston on the small end.

: Use a suitable tool to prise the hookless snap ring out at the recess (arrow).

1 1 1

: Apply the assembly drift (1)

1114 893 4700 to the opposite side of the snap ring.

: Remove the piston (1) from the connecting rod.

– Inspect the piston rings and replace if necessary,

b 8.7

: Fit the assembly drift (1)

1114 893 4700, small diameter first, through the piston hole and small end (needle cage) and line up the piston.

MS 192 T 39

2 1 2 1

: Fit the piston pin (2) on the small diameter of the assembly drift (1) and slide it into the piston.

: Push the slotted diameter of the sleeve over the magnet and snap ring.

The inner pin (1) must point towards the flat face (2) of the tool's shank.

: Apply assembly tool

5910 890 2210 to the piston boss with the taper sleeve, hold the piston steady and press the tool shank home until the snap ring slips into the groove.

The tool must be precisely aligned in axial direction of the piston pin.

1

: Remove the sleeve (1) from assembly tool 5910 890 2210.

: Press the assembly tool down in the sleeve until the magnet is at the end of the guide slits.

Stand the tool on a suitable surface

(wooden board).

1

2

2 1

: Attach the snap ring (1) to the magnet (2) and align it so that the snap ring gap is on the flat side

(arrow).

: Remove the sleeve and push it as far as possible over the opposite end of the assembly tool's shank.

The inner pin must point towards the flat face.

The snap ring (1) must be fitted in such a way that the snap ring gap

(arrow) does not coincide with the recess (2).

40 MS 192 T

– Inspect the piston rings and replace if necessary,

b 8.7

– Inspect the ball bearings and replace if necessary,

b 8.5.3

– Install the crankshaft,

b 8.5.2

– Install the engine,

b 8.4.2

8.7

Piston rings

– Remove piston,

b 8.4.1

– Remove piston rings from piston.

: Position the piston rings so that the radii at the ring gaps meet at the fixing pins (arrows) in the piston groove.

: Check the correct installed position of the piston rings again

(arrows).

– Install the piston,

b 8.4.2

: Use a piece of old piston ring to scrape the grooves clean.

MS 192 T

: Install the new piston rings in the grooves so that the radii at the ends of the rings (arrows) face towards the piston head.

41

9.

Ignition System 9.1

Ignition Module 9.1.1

Removing and installing

Exercise extreme caution while carrying out maintenance and repair work on the ignition system. The high voltages which occur can cause serious or fatal accidents.

Troubleshooting on the ignition system should always start with the

spark plug, b 4.5

– Remove the fan cover, b 9.1.1

2 1

The electronic ignition system basically consists of an ignition module (1) and flywheel (2).

1 2 1

The ignition module accommodates all the components required to control ignition timing. There are two electrical connections on the coil body:

: High-voltage output (1) with permanently fitted ignition lead

: Connector tag (2) for the short circuit wire.

Testing in the workshop is limited to a spark test. A new ignition module with ignition lead must be installed if no ignition spark is obtained (after checking that the wiring and stop switch are in good condition),

b 9.1.1

Ignition timing is fixed and cannot be adjusted during repair work.

Since there is no mechanical wear in these systems, ignition timing cannot get out of adjustment during operation.

: Take out the screws (arrows) and remove the fan housing (1) with rewind starter.

1

: Turn the twist lock (arrow) anticlockwise to release it and remove the carburetor box cover (1).

42

1

: Apply a suitable tool to the tab

(arrow) to prise the boot off the spark plug (1).

MS 192 T

1 2 1

2

1

: Disconnect the short circuit line (1).

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: Disconnect the ground wire (2).

: Remove the ignition module (1) and cable guide (arrow) for the ignition lead (2).

– Pull the ignition lead with spark plug boot out of the engine housing.

A damaged ignition lead can only be replaced together with the ignition module.

– Examine the spark plug boot and replace it if necessary,

b 9.4

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Moderately tighten the screws on the ignition module.

: Slide the setting gauge (1)

4118 890 6401 between the arms of the ignition module and the magnet pole of the flywheel.

– Press the ignition module against the setting gauge.

– Tighten down the screws.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: Remove the cable guide (arrow).

: Turn the flywheel until the magnet pole is lined up with the ignition module (arrow).

MS 192 T 43

9.2

Ignition Timing

Ignition timing is fixed and cannot be adjusted during repair work.

Since there is no mechanical wear in these systems, ignition timing cannot get out of adjustment during operation.

9.3

Testing the Ignition

Module

To test the ignition module, use either the ZAT 4 ignition system tester 5910 850 4503 or the ZAT 3 ignition system tester

5910 850 4520.

The ignition test refers only to a spark test, not to the ignition timing.

The engine may start and accelerate during the test.

If a spark is visible, the ignition system is in order.

If no spark is visible in the window (2), check the ignition system with the aid of the troubleshooting chart,

b 9.7

44

1

1 2 3 2 3 4

Using the ZAT 4 ignition system tester 5910 850 4503

– Before starting the test, install a new spark plug in the cylinder and tighten it down firmly.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

: Connect the spark plug boot to the input terminal (1). Push the tester's output terminal (3) onto the spark plug.

High voltage – risk of electrocution.

: Crank the engine quickly with the rewind starter and check sparkover in the window (2) of the ignition system tester.

Using the ZAT 3 ignition system tester 5910 850 4520

– Before starting the test, install a new spark plug and tighten it down firmly.

– Tightening torques, b 3.5

: Connect the spark plug boot to the terminal (2).

: Attach ground terminal (1) to the spark plug.

: Use adjusting knob (4) to set the spark gap to approx. 2 mm, see window (3).

MS 192 T

1

5

9.4

Ignition Lead / Spark Plug

Boot

The ignition lead cannot be replaced separately, as it is permanently connected to the ignition module.

– Remove the ignition module,

b 9.1.1

2 3 4

While using the ZAT 3, hold it only by the handle (4) or position it in a safe place. Keep fingers or other parts of your body at least 1 cm away from the spark window (3), high-voltage connection (2), ground connection (5) and the ground terminal (1).

High voltage – risk of electrocution.

– Crank the engine quickly with the rewind starter and check sparkover in the window (3) of the ignition system tester.

The engine may start and accelerate during the test.

If a spark is visible, the ignition system is in order.

If no spark is visible in the window (3), check the ignition system with the aid of the troubleshooting chart,

b 9.7

1

: Pull the spark plug boot (1) with ignition lead (arrow) out of the engine housing towards the ignition module.

: Use suitable pliers to pull the torsion spring out of the spark plug boot.

– Unhook the torsion spring from the ignition lead.

– Pull the boot off the ignition lead.

1 1 2 3

MS 192 T

: Remove the cover (1) from spark plug boot.

– Examine the ignition lead (2), ignition module (3) and grommet

(1) and replace if necessary.

Ignition lead and ignition module can only be replaced as a complete unit.

45

– Use a pointed tool to pierce the centre of the new lead's insulation about 15 mm from the end of the ignition lead.

9.5

Flywheel

1

: Ensure that the torsion spring engages in the opening (arrow).

Take out the screws (arrows) and remove the fan housing (1) with rewind starter.

– Block the piston with the locking strip,

b 6

1 1

: Pinch the hook of the torsion spring into the centre of the ignition lead (arrow).

: Slide the cover (1) over the spark plug boot.

Do not use either graphite grease or silicone insulating paste.

– Install the ignition module, b 9.1

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Remove the flywheel nut (arrow).

– Remove the flywheel.

Use the puller if the flywheel is stuck.

1

– Coat the inside of the spark plug boot with STIHL Press Fluid,

b 16

: Push the ignition lead and torsion spring into the spark plug boot.

46

Screw on the puller (1)

1116 893 0800, but do not screw it tight, and then tap the end of the puller lightly to release the flywheel.

MS 192 T

9.6

Short Circuit Wire

9.6.1

Testing

: Unscrew the puller (1)

1116 893 0800 from the crankshaft stub.

Degrease the crankshaft stub and bore in the flywheel hub with standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

1

: Remove the flywheel (1).

Flywheel and magnet poles

(arrows) must not show any signs of damage or blue discoloration, otherwise the flywheel must be replaced.

: Ensure that the machined key

(arrow) engages the slot in the crankshaft.

– Set the air gap between ignition

coil and flywheel, b 9.1.1

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

1

Check the short circuit wire if the spark plug and ignition lead with spark plug boot are in order.

– Remove the fan cover,

b 8.4.1

: Disconnect the short circuit line (1).

– Connect the ohmmeter to ground

(arrow) and the short circuit wire (1).

– Set the switch shaft to "0".

The resistance measured must be about 0 W. If it is much higher, the reason is a break in the wire and it must be replaced,

b 9.6

– Set the switch shaft to " #".

The resistance measured must be infinitely high, otherwise fit a new

short circuit wire, b 9.6

If no fault can be found, carry out further checks:

– Check the flywheel, b 9.5

– Check the air gap between flywheel and ignition module,

b 9.1.1

– If neither of these checks reveals a fault, install a new ignition

module, b 9.1.1

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

MS 192 T 47

9.6.2

Removing and installing

– Remove fan housing,

b 10.2

– Remove the handle moulding

and actuating levers, b 12.1

– Remove the switch shaft, b 12.3

1 2 3

: Remove the cable guide (arrow).

: Examine the wiring harness (1), contact spring (2), contact spring

(3) and grommets (arrows) and replace if necessary.

For safety reasons, contact spring

(3) may only be replaced together with the wiring harness.

1

: Remove the cover (1).

: Remove the cable guides

(arrows).

2

1

1

: Take out the screw (arrow) and remove the ground wire (2).

: Disconnect the short circuit line (1).

: Remove the contact springs

(arrows) from the handle housing.

– Plug the contact spring (1) into the terminal socket of the wiring harness.

: Place the contact springs in the guides (arrows).

48 MS 192 T

1

2

3

: Fit the switch shaft (1), pushing the rear contact spring (3) slightly to the side.

Check operation:

The contact springs are fitted in the handle housing at different depths.

This means that the rear contact spring (3) and the front contact spring (2) must make contact with the metal pin of the switch shaft when the switch shaft (1) is in position "0".

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Set the air gap between ignition coil and flywheel

b 9.1.1

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

MS 192 T 49

9.7

Troubleshooting, Ignition System

Engine does not run

Stop switch:

– in position “ #“?

Check spark plug:

– Smeared with oil, black?

– Sooted?

– Electrode gap correct?

– Contacts shorted?

– Clean, adjust or replace the spark plug

b 9.3

Check spark plug boot:

– Firmly seated on spark plug (leg spring)?

– Leg spring hook in centre of ignition lead?

– Spark plug boot damaged?

– Replace spark plug boot and/or leg spring if necessary

b 9.4

Check ignition: with ZAT 3 or ZAT 4

(use ZAT 3 as main spark gap

see TI 32.94)

b 9.2 and b 9.3

1

50 MS 192 T

MS 192 T

1

Spark

present?

no

Air gap:

– Check ignition module / flywheel,

– Adjust if necessary,

b 9.1.1

Check flywheel:

– Have pole shoes turned blue?

– Replace flywheel if necessary

b 9.5

Check short circuit wire:

– Replace short circuit wire if necessary

b 9.6.1

yes

Check ignition lead:

– Severe chafing?

– Spark plug boot: holes / cracks?

– Resistance of spark plug boot to ground: required: 1.5...12 k W

– Check resistance of ignition lead: value required < 10 W,

– Replace spark plug boot and/or ignition lead with ignition module if necessary

b 9.4

2 3

51

2

Stop switch

Check correct operation:

– Short circuit wire chafed?

– Contact springs not in contact with metal pin on switch shaft when in position " #"?

– Replace short circuit wire if necessary

b 9.6.2

Spark

present?

no

Replace ignition module

b 9.1.1

yes

3

52 yes

Engine runs smoothly, troubleshooting procedure completed

Engine

runs no

– Look for fault in fuel or carburetor system

– Check power unit for leaks

– Check position of flywheel on crankshaft

b 8.2, b 9.5

MS 192 T

10.

Rewind starter

10.1

General

If the action of the starter rope becomes very stiff and the rope rewinds very slowly or not completely, it may be assumed that the starter mechanism is in order but plugged with dirt. At very low outside temperatures, the lubricating oil on the rewind spring may thicken and cause the spring windings to stick together. This has a detrimental effect on the function of the starter mechanism.

To clean the rewind spring, it is sufficient to apply a few drops of a standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons to the rewind spring.

Carefully pull out the starter rope several times and allow it to rewind until its normal smooth action is restored.

Before installing, lubricate the rewind spring and starter post with

STIHL special lubricant,

b 16

If clogged with dirt or pitch, the entire starter mechanism, including the rewind spring, must be removed and disassembled. Take particular care when removing the spring.

– Clean all components.

10.2

Removing and Installing

1

1

: Take out the screws (arrows).

– Remove the fan housing (1).

: Press the locking lug (arrow) together slightly and remove the segment (1) from the fan housing.

– Examine the fan housing and segment, replace if necessary.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Tighten down the screws.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

1

: Fit the segment (1) in the slits

(arrows) on the fan housing, then push it down until the segment engages.

MS 192 T 53

10.3

Pawls

1

10.4

Rope Rotor

– Remove fan housing,

b 10.2

– Remove the spring, b 10.3

– Remove fan housing, b 10.2

: Carefully ease the spring (1) off the starter post.

Relieve tension of rewind spring

1 2

: Remove the washer (1).

: Remove the pawl (2).

The rewind spring must be relieved.

1

: Remove the pawl (1).

– Grease the pegs (arrow) of the

new pawl, b 16

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

: Pull out the starter rope about

5 cm and hold the rope rotor steady.

– Still holding the rope rotor steady, take three full turns off the rope rotor.

– Pull out the rope with the starter grip and carefully release the rope rotor.

The system will not be under tension if the starter rope or rewind spring is broken.

: Carefully remove the rope rotor.

– Remove the starter rope or remaining rope from the rope rotor.

– Examine the rope rotor and replace it if necessary,

– Remove any remaining rope from the fan housing if necessary.

– Install a new starter rope,

b 10.5

Lubricate the hole in the rope rotor with STIHL special lubricant oil,

b 16

54 MS 192 T

10.5

Starter Rope / Grip

1

1

: Fit the rotor on the starter post so that the inner loop of the spring

(arrow) enters the recess (1).

The recess in the hub of the rope rotor acts as carrier for the spring loop.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Position the spring (1) so that the loop of the spring encloses the peg of the pawl and the curved part of the spring (arrow) is located in the groove in the starter post.

– Then slide the straight part of the spring over the starter post until it engages in the groove.

– Tension the rewind spring,

b 10.6

– Grease the pegs of the pawls,

b 16

– Remove the fan housing,

b 10.2

– Relieve the tension of the rewind spring and remove the rope rotor,

b 10.4

The rewind spring will not be under tension if the starter rope is broken.

– Remove any remaining scraps of rope from the rope rotor and starter grip.

: Tie one of the two special knots shown above at the end of the rope in the starter grip.

MS 192 T 55

1 1

1

Machines with standard starter grip

: Thread the new rope (1) through the side of the starter grip.

Machines with ElastoStart starter grip

: Prise off the cap (1) with a suitable tool.

: Pull the rope (1) with spring and sleeve into the starter grip.

– Press the cap into the starter grip.

1

1

: Pull the rope out and continue threading it into the starter grip from the top.

: Pull the rope or remaining rope

(1) out of the sleeve.

: Then thread the rope (1) through the opening (arrow).

1

1

: Pull the rope through the grip until the knot at the end of the rope is in the recess (arrow).

: Pull the rope (1) through the sleeve into the starter grip.

– Tie a special knot in the end of the rope.

: Thread the rope (1) into the rope rotor (arrows).

56 MS 192 T

10.6

Tensioning the Rewind

Spring

1

2

1

: Secure the rope (1) with a simple overhand knot.

– Pull the rope into the rope rotor until the knot rests in the recess

(arrow) in the rope rotor.

– Install the rope rotor and tension the rewind spring,

b 10.4

– Install the fan housing,

b 10.2

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Remove the fan housing,

b 10.2

: Pull out part of the rope (1) between rope rotor (2) and fan housing.

: Turn the rope rotor with rope six times clockwise.

The rope twists as the rope rotor and rope are turned. The rewind spring is now tensioned.

Hold the tensioned rope rotor firmly, as the rewind spring will be damaged if it jumps back suddenly.

– Hold the starter grip firmly to keep the rope (1) tensioned.

: Let go of the rope rotor and let the starter rope rewind slowly.

1

1 2

– Hold the rope rotor (2) steady.

: Pull out the rope (1) with the starter grip and straighten it out.

The rewind spring is correctly tensioned when the starter grip sits firmly in the rope guide bushing

(arrow) without drooping to one side. If this is not the case, the spring must be tensioned by one additional turn.

When the starter rope is fully extended, it must still be possible to rotate the rope rotor at least another half turn before the maximum spring tension is reached, otherwise the spring tension must be reduced – it may break –

To reduce the spring tension:

Pull the rope out, hold the rope rotor steady and take off one turn of the rope.

– Install the fan housing,

b 10.2

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

MS 192 T 57

10.7

Replacing the Rewind

Spring

– Troubleshooting, b 4.4

The replacement spring is supplied ready for installation and secured in a frame.

Wear a face shield and protective gloves.

– Remove the fan housing,

b 10.2

– Relieve the rewind spring if necessary and remove the rope rotor,

b 10.4

– Remove any fragments of the old spring.

– Lubricate the spring with a few drops of STIHL special lubricant before installation,

b 16

: Apply suitable tools (screwdriver, drift, etc.) to the recesses and push the spring into its seat in the housing – the spring slides out of the frame.

– Remove the frame.

The rewind spring may pop out.

1

1

– Arrange the spring (1) as shown in the illustration.

: Position the anchor loop in the fixture (arrow).

Ensure that the new rewind spring

(1) is fitted completely and the anchor loop is positioned in the fixture (arrow).

If the rewind spring pops out during installation, fit it in the fan housing as follows:

: Fit the rewind spring (1) in a circular fashion, working in clockwise direction.

: Hold the inserted loops securely to prevent them slipping out again.

1

: Position the replacement spring with frame – the anchor loop must be located over the fixture (1).

58 MS 192 T

: Arrange the inner loop (arrow) with suitable pliers so that it is slightly angled against the starter post.

– Install the rope rotor,

b 10.4

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

10.8

Starter Rope Guide

Bushing

Wear on the guide bushing is accelerated by the starter rope being pulled sideways. The wall of the bushing eventually wears through and the bushing becomes loose.

– Remove the fan housing,

b 10.2

– Relax the rewind spring and remove the starter rope and rope rotor,

b 10.4

1

: Insert the screw spindle (1) of the installing tool 0000 890 2201 through the guide bushing from inside the housing.

2

1

1

3

– Use a suitable tool to remove the damaged guide bushing from the fan housing.

: Place the new guide bushing (1) in the hole in the fan housing.

: Fit the thrust sleeve (1) and hex nut (2).

: Tighten down the hex nut, steadying the screw (3), until the bushing is firmly seated.

The installing tool flares the lower end of the rope bushing.

– Remove the installing tool.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

MS 192 T 59

11.

Repairing the AV System 11.1

Annular Buffer

The handle housing and engine housing are connected by vibration damping rubber buffers and a spring.

Damaged rubber buffers (annular buffers) and springs must be replaced.

The rubber buffer is located between handle housing and engine housing to secure the handle housing without transmitting vibrations.

Remove the carburetor box cover,

b 14.1

Remove the sprocket cover and bar

and chain, b 5.1

: Examine the rubber buffer and replace it if necessary.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques, b 3.5

: Remove the screw (arrow).

60

: Take out the screws (arrows).

– Remove the rubber buffer.

MS 192 T

11.2

Front Handle / Spring

The spring is located between front handle and engine housing to ensure a strong connection between handle housing and engine housing without transmitting vibrations.

– Open the handle housing,

b 12.1

– Remove the throttle trigger and

throttle trigger interlock, b 12.1

– Remove the switch shaft,

b 12.3

1

: Pull the front handle (1) out of the upper guide (arrow).

1

Ensure that the spring (1) has been fully turned into the front handle and bearing plug.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: Draw the front handle out of the engine housing with the spring facing downwards.

: Slide the front handle into the hole (arrow), ensuring that the raised parts of the handle engage the recess of the handle housing.

3

: Remove the screw (arrow) from underneath the engine housing.

1 2

: Examine the front handle (1), spring (2) and bearing plug (3) and replace if necessary.

MS 192 T

: Insert and tighten down the screw

(arrow).

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

61

11.3

AV Spring between

Handle Housing / Engine

Housing

The AV spring is located between handle housing and engine housing to secure the handle housing without transmitting vibrations. The replacement spring is supplied complete with bearing plug.

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

– Open the handle housing,

b 12.1

: Remove the screw (arrow).

– Draw the AV spring out of the recess in the engine housing.

11.4

Clamp

To prevent the engine vibrating in the engine housing, a clamp is fitted on the inside of the engine housing so that the cylinder rests against the clamp.

Remove the engine,

b 8.4

– The following work is made easier by using STIHL Press

Fluid, b 16

: Remove the screw (arrow).

1

– Examine the AV spring and replace it if necessary,

: Before installing the AV spring, ensure that it has been fully turned into the bearing plugs

(arrows).

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

: Press the rubber stub (arrow) out of the engine housing.

– Examine the clamp and replace it if necessary,

: Prise off the bumper strip (1) with a suitable tool.

62

1

: Press the clamp (1) into the engine housing from below.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

MS 192 T

11.5

Loop 12.

Actuating Levers

12.1

Throttle Trigger / Interlock

Lever / Throttle Rod

1

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: Take out the screws (arrows).

2

: Remove the interlock lever (1) and throttle trigger (2).

1

– Examine the retaining plate and loop and replace them if necessary.

: Fit the loop in the retaining plate

(arrow) and position both parts on the engine housing.

– Insert and tighten down the screw.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

: Carefully remove the handle moulding (1).

Throttle rod and actuating levers may drop out as the handle moulding is removed.

: Hook the torsion spring (1) into the throttle trigger (2).

– note the installed position –

– Examine the torsion spring and replace it if necessary.

1

2

1

: Remove the throttle rod (1).

: Place the torsion spring in the fixture (arrows).

MS 192 T 63

1 2

When installing the interlock lever

(1) and throttle trigger (2) ensure that the peg on the interlock lever engages in the guide (arrow).

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Check correct functioning.

12.2

Double Lever

– Remove the air filter,

b 14.1

– Remove the air filter base,

b 14.1.1

– Remove the handle moulding, throttle rod, interlock lever and throttle trigger,

b 12.1

– Unhook the rod from the carburetor,

b 14.2

: Fit the interlock lever and throttle trigger in the bearing guides

(arrows).

: Push the throttle rod into the holes (arrows) on the throttle trigger and double lever.

– Install the handle moulding, fit the screws and tighten them down securely.

64

1

: Remove the double lever (1) from the bearing hole (arrow).

1

2

: Install the double lever so that the throttle rod (1) can be fitted in the upper hole (arrow) and the throttle rod from the carburetor

(2) in the lower hole (arrow).

MS 192 T

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Check correct functioning.

12.3

Switch Shaft

1

– Remove the handle moulding, throttle rod, interlock lever and

throttle trigger, b 12.1

: Pull the switch shaft (1) out of the bearing.

Check operation

The contact springs are fitted in the handle housing at different depths.

The rear contact spring (3) and the front contact spring (2) must make contact with the metal pin of the switch shaft when the switch shaft

(1) is in position "0".

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Check correct functioning again.

1

: Check the switch shaft – the metal pin (1) must be firmly seated in the hole and the cam

(arrow) must be present.

1

2

3

: Fit the switch shaft (1), pushing the rear contact spring (3) slightly to the side.

MS 192 T 65

12.4

Handle Housing

– Remove fan housing, b 10.2

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

– Remove the carburetor, b 14.2

– Push the intake elbow on the carburetor side out of the handle housing,

b 14.5

The handle need not be dismantled when replacing the handle housing, as the handle housing is replaced as a complete unit – see spare parts list –

1

: Remove the bumper strip (1).

: Remove the cable guide (arrow).

1

: Remove the cover (1).

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: Remove the cable guides

(arrows).

2

: Remove the screw (arrow).

1

: Take out the screw (arrow) and remove the ground wire (2).

: Remove the short circuit wire (1).

– Disconnect the spring of the front handle from the engine housing.

: Remove the screw (arrow).

66 MS 192 T

2 1

– Pull the front handle with handle housing down slightly.

: Pull the bearing plug out of the engine housing.

: Disconnect the tank vent (1) from the fuel hose (2).

– Draw the fuel hose (2) out through the opening (arrow).

: Unscrew the spring and bearing plug.

1

: Remove the tank vent (1).

1

: Push the grommet (1) out.

1

1

2

: Screw the spring (1) and bearing plug (2) into the new front handle.

– Install the complete handle housing in the reverse sequence of steps.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Installation of rubber parts is made easier by using STIHL

Press Fluid,

b 16

1

: Push the fuel return line (1) out.

: Disconnect the impulse hose (1) from the stub (arrow).

– Remove the handle housing.

MS 192 T 67

13.

Chain Lubrication

13.1

Pick-up Body

Impurities gradually clog the fine pores of the filter with minute particles of dirt. This prevents the oil pump from supplying sufficient oil to the bar and chain. Always check the oil tank and pick-up body first if problems develop in the oil supply.

Clean the oil tank if necessary.

– Troubleshooting, b 4.3

– Unscrew the oil tank cap and drain the oil tank.

Collect chain oil in a clean container or dispose of it properly at an approved disposal site.

1

– Hold the suction hose with blunt pliers.

: Pull the pick-up body (1) off the suction hose.

13.2

Oil Suction Hose

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

– Remove the clutch,

b 6.1

– Remove the bumper strips,

b 5.5

– Unscrew the oil tank cap and drain the oil tank.

– Remove the pick-up body,

b 13.1

1

1

: Use hook 5910 893 8800 to pull the pick-up body (1) out of the oil tank.

Take care not to overextend the suction hose.

68

– Flush out the oil tank.

– Replace the pick-up body.

: Push the pick-up body (1) into the suction hose and place it in the oil tank.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Take out the screws (arrows).

2 1

: Remove the cover (1), pulling the worm (2) off the crankshaft stub at the same time.

MS 192 T

13.3

Oil Pump

: Pull the hose off the connector

(arrow) on the oil pump.

: Use a suitable tool to press in the suction hose until the groove on the suction hose is lined up with the heel on the engine housing.

Inadequate lubrication of the bar and chain may be due to the oil pump if the pick-up body, suction hose and valve have been checked and found to be in order.

Remove the sprocket cover and bar and chain,

b 5.1

Remove the clutch,

b 6.1

Remove the bumper strips, b 5.5

1

1

: Pull the suction hose (1) out of the engine housing.

: Use hook 5910 893 8800 to pull the suction hose (1) out of the oil tank.

: Take out the screws (arrows).

1 2 1

1

: Push the smaller diameter of the new suction hose (1) into the hole in the engine housing.

: Push the pick-up body (1) into the suction hose and place it in the oil tank.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Remove the cover (1), pulling the worm (2) off the crankshaft stub at the same time.

MS 192 T 69

13.4

Valve

: Pull the hose off the connector

(arrow) on the oil pump.

: Check the oil pump (1) and connector (2) and replace if necessary.

2

1

Cleaning the valve

A valve is installed in the tank wall to keep internal tank pressure equal to atmospheric pressure.

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

– Remove the oil tank cap.

– Drain the oil tank.

Collect chain oil in a clean container or dispose of it properly at an approved disposal site.

1

: Remove the screw (arrow).

1 2

: Remove the oil pump (1), pulling the connector (2) out of the recess in the engine housing.

: Slip the oil pump (1) over the crankshaft stub and press the nipple on the connector as far as possible into the recess (arrow).

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Grease the worm before installing it,

b 16

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

: Blow the valve (arrow) clear with compressed air (from outside to inside of tank).

– Flush out the oil tank.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

The valve must be replaced if it still does not function properly after being cleaned.

Replacing the valve

– Remove the sprocket cover and

bar and chain, b 5.1

– Remove the oil tank cap.

– Drain the oil tank.

Collect chain oil in a clean container or dispose of it properly at an approved disposal site.

70 MS 192 T

13.5

Oil Tank Filler Cap

: Carefully drive the valve out of the tank wall into the tank with a drift dia. 6 mm.

: Carefully drive the valve out into the hole in the engine housing with a drift dia. 6 mm, working from the outside.

: Lift up the safety latch and unscrew the tank filler cap (1).

1

: Remove the old valve from the oil tank.

: Fit a new valve in the hole a = approx. 8...10 mm.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Prise the nipple out from inside the tank (arrow).

1 2

Ensure that the parts are installed correctly.

: Carefully fit the valve in the hole in the engine housing.

MS 192 T

: Examine the filler cap (1), cord and sealing ring (2) and replace if necessary.

The filler cap is supplied complete with cord and sealing ring.

71

: Press the nipple into the mount

(arrow) inside the tank.

– Screw in the filler cap.

– Test for leaks.

14.

14.1

Fuel System

Air Filter

Dirty air filters reduce engine power, increase fuel consumption and make starting more difficult.

The air filter should be checked when there is a noticeable loss of engine power.

– Refer also to troubleshooting,

b 4.7

1

: Remove the air filter (1).

– Knock out the filter or blow it clear with compressed air from the inside outwards.

1

1

: Turn the twist lock (arrow) anticlockwise.

– Remove the carburetor box cover (1).

1

: Press the tabs (arrows) together and push the twist lock (1) out of the carburetor box cover.

: Take the foam inlay (1) out of the filter base.

– Clean away loose dirt from around the filter.

Check the filter and foam inlay and replace them if damaged or dirty.

– If soiled, wash all parts of the filter in STIHL universal cleaner or a fresh, non-flammable cleaning solution (e.g. warm soapy water) and allow to dry.

Do not clean fleece (non-woven) filters with a brush.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

72 MS 192 T

14.1.1 Air Filter Base 14.2

Carburetor, Removing and Installing

– Remove the air filter, b 14.1

– Remove the filter base,

b 14.1.1

1 2

– Remove the air filter,

b 14.1

: Unscrew the nuts (arrows).

When fitting the choke lever (1) on the choke shaft (2), ensure that the flat side of the choke shaft meshes with the semi-circular recess in the choke lever.

1

1

: Remove the filter base (1).

– Examine the filter base and replace it if necessary,

– Before installing the filter base, lubricate the sealing ring on the carburetor connector with STIHL

Press Fluid,

b 16

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

Ensure that the air filter rests uniformly on the filter base all round.

: Push out the grommet (1), examine it and replace it if necessary.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

1 1

: Pull the choke lever (1) off the choke shaft.

: Disconnect the fuel hose (1) from the carburetor (arrow).

MS 192 T 73

14.2.1 Leakage Test

: Carefully draw the carburetor off the fuel return line and stud bolts until the rods appear.

The tank vent must also be checked and cleaned if problems develop with the carburetor or fuel supply,

b 14.6.2

The carburetor can be tested for leaks with the carburetor and crankcase tester 1106 850 2905.

– Disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and remove the carburetor,

b 14.2

: Unhook the rod (1) from the

1 carburetor (arrow) and remove the carburetor.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Check correct functioning.

2 1

: Push the fuel line (1)

1110 141 8600 onto the double connector (2) 0000 855 9200.

3 2

1

– Push the pressure hose of the tester 1106 850 2905 onto the double connector.

: Close the vent screw (1) on the rubber bulb (2) and pump air into the carburetor until the pressure gauge (3) shows a reading of approx. 0.8 bar (80 kPa).

If this pressure remains constant, the carburetor is airtight. However, if the pressure drops, there are two possible causes:

1. The inlet valve is not sealing

(impurities in the valve seat, sealing cone of the inlet needle is damaged or inlet control lever is sticking).

Remove to clean, b 14.3.2

2. Metering diaphragm damaged,

replace if necessary,

b 14.3.1

– After completing the test, open the vent screw (1) and pull the fuel line off the carburetor's elbow connector.

– Push the fuel hose onto the elbow connector.

– Install the carburetor, b 14.2

– Tightening torques, b 3.5

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Push the fuel line with double connector onto the fuel port

(arrow).

74 MS 192 T

14.3

Carburetor Repair

14.3.1 Metering Diaphragm

– Remove the carburetor,

b 14.2

: Take out the screws (arrows).

The diaphragm material is subjected to continuous alternating stresses and eventually shows signs of fatigue. In other words, the diaphragm distorts and swells and must be replaced.

– Examine the metering diaphragm for signs of damage and wear, replace the gasket.

: Secure the gasket, metering diaphragm and end cover with two screws (arrows).

1

2

1

: Remove the end cover (1).

If the gasket and diaphragm are stuck to the carburetor, they must be removed very carefully.

– Note the order in which the metering diaphragm (2) and gasket (1) are installed.

: Gasket and metering diaphragm must be aligned so that the tab

(arrow) points towards the adjusting nozzles.

– Fit the remaining screws in the secured end cover and tighten down all screws, working crosswise.

1 2

: Carefully separate the metering diaphragm (1) and gasket (2).

MS 192 T 75

14.3.2 Inlet Needle

– Remove the metering

diaphragm, b 14.3.1

: Remove the screw (arrow).

: The sealing cone of the inlet needle must be replaced if a circular indentation (arrow) is visible on its tip.

Ensure that the spring locates on the nipple of the inlet control lever.

– Press the inlet control lever down and secure it with the screw.

– Check that the inlet control lever moves easily.

– Install the metering diaphragm,

b 14.3.1

1

1 2 2

: Pull the inlet control lever (1) with spindle (2) out of the groove in the inlet needle.

The spring under the inlet control lever may pop out.

: Fit the inlet needle (1).

: Fit spring (2) in bore.

1

1 2 3

: Pull out the inlet needle (arrow).

– Remove and examine the spring

(1), replace it if necessary.

: Position the seat of the inlet control lever (1) with spindle (2) over the spring, then slide the fork of the inlet control lever into the groove in the inlet needle (1).

76 MS 192 T

14.3.3 Fixed Jet

1

14.3.4 Pump Diaphragm

1 2

– Remove the metering diaphragm,

b 14.3.1

: Unscrew the fixed jet (1) with a suitable screwdriver.

Take care not to damage the jet.

– Examine the fixed jet and replace it if necessary.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Remove the carburetor,

b 14.2

: Remove the screw (arrow).

1

: Carefully separate the pump diaphragm (1) and gasket (2).

The diaphragm material is subjected to continuous alternating stresses and eventually shows signs of fatigue. In other words, the diaphragm distorts and swells and must be replaced.

– Examine the pump diaphragm for signs of damage and wear, replace the gasket.

– Inspect the fuel strainer for contamination and damage, clean or replace it if necessary.

: Carefully remove the end cover (1).

1

MS 192 T

: Carefully remove the gasket with pump diaphragm from the carburetor body.

: Pull the fuel strainer (1) out of the carburetor body with a needle and clean or replace it.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

77

14.3.5 Choke Shaft / Choke

Shutter

1

: Fit the gasket (1) and secure it with the pegs (arrows).

1

: Turn the throttle shaft lever back and forth so that the end cover with stop pin (arrow) can be fitted without difficulty.

– Gently move the end cover back and forth until the pegs on the end cover are lined up with the holes in the carburetor body.

– Insert and tighten down the screw.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

– Remove the carburetor,

b 14.2

If actuation of the choke shaft is stiff and/or the choke shutter cannot be opened or closed properly:

Remove the choke shaft, then clean the shaft and shaft guides with a little standard solvent-based degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

: Place the diaphragm (1) over the gasket and secure it with the pegs (arrows).

: Position the end cover on the carburetor body from below so that the gasket and pump diaphragm remain secured to the end cover.

78

: Remove the screw (arrow) from the choke shaft.

The screw thread may be damaged when it is removed.

– Use a new screw –

MS 192 T

2

1 1

: Turn the choke shaft anticlockwise with a suitable tool and remove the choke shutter (1).

: Examine the ball and spring and replace if necessary.

– Turn the choke shaft until the flat area is visible.

.

: Fit the choke shutter (1) with the hole (2) at the front.

1

1 1

3

2

Take care that the ball and spring do not pop out when removing the choke shaft (1).

– Wear safety glasses –

: Pull out the choke shaft (1) and clean it with the guides.

– Examine the choke shaft for signs of damage and replace it if necessary.

Ensure that the spring and ball are correctly fitted before installing the choke shaft.

: Slide the choke shaft (1) into the carburetor body until it engages.

The choke shutter (3) must be installed so that hole (1) is above and hole (2) axially parallel with the choke shaft.

– Secure the screw with Loctite,

b 16

: Fit the new screw (arrow) in the shaft and tighten it moderately.

– Close the choke shutter (3) and centre it in the bore of the carburetor body.

– Tighten down the screw.

– Check correct functioning and easy movement.

MS 192 T 79

14.3.6 Throttle Shaft / Throttle

Shutter

If actuation of the throttle shaft is stiff and/or the throttle shutter cannot be opened or closed properly:

– Remove the carburetor, b 14.2

– Troubleshooting on the carburetor,

b 4.6

– Remove the throttle shaft, then clean the shaft and shaft guides with a little standard solventbased degreasant not containing any chlorinated or halogenated hydrocarbons.

: Remove the circlip (arrow) with a suitable tool.

: Install the torsion spring.

Ensure that the torsion spring is fitted correctly (arrow).

: Remove the screw (arrow).

1

– Turn the throttle shaft slightly.

: Pull out the throttle shutter (1).

1 2 1

– Before pulling out the throttle shaft, secure the pump piston to prevent it popping out,

b 14.3.7

: Unhook and relax the torsion spring (arrow).

: Pull the throttle shaft (1) with torsion spring out of the carburetor body.

– Clean the throttle shaft and guides.

– Examine the throttle shaft for signs of damage and replace it if necessary.

– Examine the torsion spring and replace it if necessary.

: Turn the torsion spring (1) roughly a half-turn in clockwise direction with a suitable tool to prestress it.

– Push the pump piston into the bore of the carburetor with a suitable tool,

b 14.3.7

: Push the throttle shaft (2) with prestressed torsion spring into the carburetor body.

80 MS 192 T

14.3.7 Accelerator Pump

1

2

: Position the prestressed torsion spring so that it rests against the shoulder (arrow) of the carburetor body.

: Insert the screw (1) in the flat side of the shaft and tighten it down moderately.

– Close the throttle shutter (2) and centre it in the bore of the carburetor body.

The notch (arrow) on the throttle shutter must line up with the small bore in the carburetor body.

– Tighten down the screw.

– Check correct functioning and easy movement.

– Secure the screw with Loctite,

b 16

: Install the circlip.

– Remove the throttle shaft,

b 14.3.6

Keep a finger over the hole (arrow) to prevent parts popping out.

1 2 3

– Examine the pump piston (1), sealing ring (2) and spring (3) and replace if necessary.

s

1

3 2

: Fit the throttle shutter (1) with the dent (3) on the left and the number (2) visible on the right.

MS 192 T

Press the pump piston with spring into the hole (arrow) before installing the throttle shaft (1).

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

81

14.3.8 Adjusting screws

1

2

1

3

There are three adjusting screws on the carburetor:

H = High speed screw (1)

L = Low speed screw (2)

LA = Idle speed screw (3)

If the carburetor setting can no longer be adjusted, this may also be due to the adjusting screws.

Only the high speed screw has a limiter cap; a new cap must always be used after dismantling the high speed screw.

Remove the carburetor,

b 14.2

Refer also to troubleshooting on the carburetor,

b 4.6

: Examine the tip (arrow) for signs of damage or wear.

– Replace the low speed screw if necessary.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Adjust the low speed screw,

b 14.4

: Take out the high speed screw (1).

Low speed screw

1

High speed screw

1

: Examine the tip (arrow) for signs of damage or wear.

– Replace the high speed screw if necessary.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

– Adjust the high speed screw,

b 14.4.1

: Take out the low speed screw (1).

: Prise the limiter cap (1) off the high speed screw with tool

5910 890 4501.

Always fit a new limiter cap.

82 MS 192 T

14.4

Carburetor Adjustment

14.4.1 Basic Setting

Only necessary if the high speed screw H or low speed screw L has to be replaced or for cleaning and setting the carburetor.

– Remove the limiter cap from the high speed screw,

b 14.3.8

The basic setting must be made after removing the limiter cap.

1 2

: Turn the high speed screw H (1) clockwise until it is firmly in its seat.

: Turn the high speed screw H (1) anticlockwise until it is one turn open.

: Turn the low speed screw L (2) clockwise until it is firmly in its seat.

: Turn the low speed screw L (2) anticlockwise until it is one turn open.

– Check air filter – clean or replace if necessary,

b 14.1

– Check the chain tension.

– Check the spark arresting screen

(if installed) – clean or replace if necessary,

b 8.1

– Let the engine warm up.

Set idle speed with a speed tester.

Set the specified speeds within the tolerance range of ± 200 rpm.

1. Set the speed to 3500 rpm with the idle speed adjusting screw LA.

2. Turn the low speed screw L clockwise or anticlockwise to set the highest speed.

If this speed is more than

3900 rpm, stop the adjustment and start again with step 1.

3. Set the speed to 3500 rpm again with the idle speed adjusting screw LA.

4. Set the speed to 3000 rpm with the low speed screw L.

5. Set the maximum speed of

13,500 rpm with the high speed screw H.

6. Fit the limiter cap.

1

Always use a new limiter cap.

Before fitting the limiter cap, it must be positioned so that the raised part

(1) is below the stop (arrow) on the carburetor body. Then press the limiter cap onto the preset high speed screw.

: Press the limiter cap onto the high speed screw H.

MS 192 T 83

14.4.2 User Setting

The limiter cap must not be removed from the high speed screw when making the user setting.

Standard setting

– Switch off engine

– Check the air filter – clean or replace if necessary,

b 14.1

– Check the chain tension.

– Check the spark arresting screen

(if installed) – clean or replace if necessary,

b 8.1

– Carefully turn the high speed screw H anticlockwise as far as possible (max. 3/4 turn).

– Carefully turn the low speed screw L clockwise until it is firmly in its seat.

Then open it one turn.

Engine stops when idling

– Make standard setting!

– Turn the idle speed screw LA clockwise until the saw chain begins to run, then back off

1/4 turn.

Saw chain rotates at idle speed

– Make standard setting!

– Turn the idle speed screw LA anticlockwise until the saw chain stops, then give it another

1/4 turn in the same direction.

Erratic idling behaviour, poor acceleration

– Make standard setting!

Idle setting too lean (e.g. at low ambient temperatures).

– Turn the low speed screw L anticlockwise until the engine runs and accelerates smoothly.

It is usually necessary to change the setting of the idle speed adjusting screw LA after every correction to the low speed adjusting screw L.

84 MS 192 T

Correcting the carburetor setting for use at high altitudes

The setting may have to be marginally corrected if the engine performance is unsatisfactory at high altitudes.

– Check the standard setting.

– Let the engine warm up.

– Turn the high speed screw H clockwise (leaner) – max. up to the stop.

The screws should be adjusted as little as possible. The slightest adjustment produces a tangible difference in engine behaviour.

If you make the setting too lean it will increase the risk of engine damage through lack of lubrication and overheating.

If the adjustments do not yield any improvement, refer also to the troubleshooting chart for ignition system, carburetor and power unit,

b 4.6

14.5

Intake Elbow, Removing and Installing

– Remove the air filter, b 14.1

– Remove the filter base,

b 14.1.1

– Remove the carburetor,

b 14.2

– Unscrew the rubber buffers,

b 11.2

A damaged intake elbow may lead to impaired engine performance.

– Troubleshooting, b 4.6 or

b 4.7

1

: Prise off the supporting plate (1) with a suitable tool.

1

1

: Remove the washer (1).

: Take the sleeve (1) out of the intake elbow.

– Press the flange of the intake elbow out through the hole in the handle housing towards the cylinder.

– Examine the intake elbow and replace it if necessary.

1

: Lift the handle housing and pull the elbow (1) off the cylinder.

MS 192 T 85

1

The tab on the elbow flange must not cover the opening in the handle housing otherwise the impulse hose will not operate correctly.

: Before installing the intake elbow, slide the supporting plate onto the elbow so that the rebate

(arrow) and tab (1) face the carburetor.

: Draw the ends of the string through the intake port with the elbow flange.

– Coat with STIHL Press Fluid,

b 16

In this way, the elbow flange is fitted through the intake port of the tank housing without damaging it.

1

: To draw the elbow flange into the intake port of the tank housing, wrap a piece of string (1) approx. 15 cm long round the elbow and guide the ends of the string through the intake port.

– Position the elbow on the handle housing.

: Push the elbow (1) onto the intake port (arrow).

1

1

86

– Ensure that the flange is correctly seated in the handle housing.

The tab on the elbow flange (arrow) must be aligned so that the hole is lined up with the opening in the handle housing.

: Ensure that the elbow (1) completely encloses the intake port.

MS 192 T

1

14.5.1 Impulse Hose

1

: Fit the supporting plate (1) so that the tab (arrow) points upwards and towards the chain.

: Press the supporting plate home completely until it rests against the engine housing all round

(arrows).

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

– Tightening torques,

b 3.5

A damaged impulse hose may lead to impaired engine performance.

– Remove the fan housing,

b 10.2

– Remove the flywheel,

b 9.5

– Unscrew the rubber buffers on the handle housing,

b 11.1

– Remove the carburetor,

b 14.2

– Push the intake elbow out of the handle housing,

b 14.5

– Troubleshooting, b 4.6 or

b 4.7

The impulse hose is shown on the handle housing after disassembly for clarity.

: Disconnect the impulse hose (1) from the stub (arrow).

– Pull the impulse hose out of the engine housing.

– Examine the impulse hose and replace it if necessary,

When installing the impulse hose, ensure that the spring is actually in the hose to prevent it buckling.

– Lubricate the ends of the impulse hose with STIHL Press Fluid,

b 16

MS 192 T

1 1

: Disconnect the impulse hose (1) from the stub (arrow) of the handle housing.

: Guide the impulse hose (1) through the opening (arrow) on the engine housing and push it onto the stub on the handle housing.

87

1

: Connect the impulse hose (1) to the stub (arrow).

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

Ensure that the impulse hose is routed correctly and without kinking.

14.6

Tank Vent

14.6.1 Testing

A pressure equilibrium must always prevail between the inside of the fuel tank and the surrounding atmosphere to permit troublefree operation of the carburetor. This is ensured by the tank vent.

If problems develop in the carburetor or fuel supply, the tank vent must always also be tested and replaced if necessary. Correct functioning is determined by testing the fuel tank with negative pressure or gauge pressure via the fuel hose.

– Remove the fan housing,

b 10.2

– Drain the fuel tank.

Ensure that the fuel is disposed of correctly and without harming the environment.

1

2

2

: Disconnect the fuel return line (1) and push the double nipple (2)

0000 855 9200 into the flange

(arrow) of the suction hose.

0,8

0,4

0,6

500

400

300

200

100

600

700

0,2

0

1,0

1

: Remove the cover (1).

1

Testing with negative pressure

: Close the valve (1) and connect the vacuum pump (2)

0000 850 3501 to the double nipple, then create a vacuum in the fuel tank.

Pressure is equalized via the tank vent. A negative pressure must not build up inside the tank. The tank vent must be replaced if this is not the case.

– Clean the area around the tank vent.

– Replace the tank vent or tank if necessary,

b 14.6.2 or

b 14.8.3

88 MS 192 T

Testing with gauge pressure

: Close the vent screw (1).

1

14.6.2 Removing and Installing

1

– Remove the air filter, b 14.1

– Remove the filter base,

b 14.1.1

: Pull the tank vent (1) out of the holder on the handle housing.

14.7

Fuel Intake

14.7.1 Pick-up Body

Impurities which are entrained into the fuel tank with the fuel are trapped by the pick-up body. With time, the fine pores in the pick-up body become clogged with very fine dirt particles. This reduces the intake diameter and fuel can no longer be delivered in sufficient quantities.

Always check the fuel tank and pickup body first if problems develop in the fuel supply. Clean the fuel tank if necessary.

1

0,2

0

0,4

0,6

0,8

1,0

1

2

: Connect the carburetor and crankcase tester 1106 850 2905

(1) to the double nipple (arrow).

– Pump the rubber bulb until the reading on the pressure gauge shows an excess pressure of

0.5 bar. If this pressure remains constant for at least 20 seconds, the tank and tank vent are airtight. If the pressure drops, the leak must be located and the faulty part replaced.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

: Disconnect the tank vent (1) from the hose (2).

– Examine the tank vent and replace it if necessary,

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

: Lift up the safety latch, remove the filler cap (1) and drain the tank.

– Fill a little clean petrol into the tank, close the tank and shake it thoroughly.

– Reopen the tank and empty it.

Ensure that the fuel is disposed of correctly and without harming the environment.

If cleaning the tank does not remedy the problem, clean the pick-up body or replace it if necessary.

– Troubleshooting,

b 4.6 or

b 4.7

MS 192 T 89

1 1

: Use hook 5910 893 8800 to pull the pick-up body (1) out of the fuel tank.

Take care not to overextend the fuel hose.

: Push the pick-up body (1) into the tank filler port.

– The pick-up body should be positioned at the lowest point inside the tank.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

1 2

14.8

Fuel Hoses

Remove the air filter, b 14.1

Remove the fan cover,

b 9.1

Remove the intake elbow,

b 14.5

1

: Disconnect the pick-up body (1) from the fuel hose (2).

– Check the pick-up body and clean or replace it if necessary.

1 2

: Slide the connectors of the cleaned or replaced pick-up body

(1) into the fuel hose (2).

90

: Remove the cover (1).

1

: Push the fuel return line (1) out.

MS 192 T

1 1

3

3

1

2

: Pull the fuel return line (1) out of the guides and flange (arrow).

1

: Pull the elbow connectors (3) off the hoses.

– Check the fuel hose (1), fuel return line (2) and elbow connectors (3) and replace them if necessary.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

: Pull the fuel suction hose (1) out of the tank.

– Examine the fuel suction hose and replace it if necessary,

1

: Pull the fuel hose (1) out of the hose on the fuel pump.

: Push the fuel suction hose (1) into the hole in the fuel tank.

1

1

1

: Pull the fuel hose (1) out of the guides and flange (arrow).

– Remove the pick-up body,

b 14.7.1

: Prise off the flange (1) with a suitable tool.

: Align the flange (1) and press it into the fixture on the housing until it rests against the housing.

MS 192 T 91

14.8.1 Fuel Pump

1

1

2

1

: Use hook 5910 893 8800 to pull the fuel suction hose (1) out of the fuel tank.

Take care not to overextend the fuel hose.

– Fit the pick-up body, b 14.7.1

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

: Disconnect the tank vent (1) from the hose (2).

– Pull the hose (2) out through the opening in the handle housing.

– Remove the air filter,

b 14.1

– Remove the fan housing, b 10.2

: Disconnect the fuel hose (1).

1

1

: Disconnect the fuel hose (1) from the fuel pump.

: Press the tabs (arrows) together and push the fuel pump (1) out of the housing.

1 2 1

: Remove the tank vent (1).

92

: Disconnect fuel hose (1) and examine fuel hose (2), replace if necessary.

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

: Examine the fuel pump and replace it if necessary,

– Reassemble parts in reverse order.

MS 192 T

14.8.2 Fuel Tank Filler Cap

1

: Lift up the safety latch and unscrew the tank filler cap (1).

: Press the nipple into the mount

(arrow) inside the tank.

– Screw in the filler cap.

– Test for leaks.

– Reassemble remaining parts in reverse order.

14.8.3 Tank Housing, Removing and Installing

The tank housing is integrated into the engine housing. The complete engine housing must always be replaced if the fuel tank, oil tank or engine housing is damaged.

: Prise the nipple out from inside the tank (arrow).

1 2

: Examine the filler cap (1), cord and sealing ring (2) and replace if necessary.

The filler cap is supplied with cord and sealing ring; the sealing ring is available separately.

MS 192 T 93

15.

Special Servicing Tools

No.

Part name Part No.

1

5

6

2

4

7

8

9

10

11

12

15

16

17

19

20

Locking strip 0000 893 5903

Sealing plate

Strap retainer

Flange

Assembly tool

0000 855 8106

1137 893 2600

1128 850 4200

0000 890 2201

Carburetor and crankcase tester 1106 850 2905

Vacuum pump

- Connector

- Hose for leakage test

Puller

Puller (with No. 3.1 jaws)

Press sleeve

Assembly tube

Assembly hook

Assembly tool 10

Setting gauge

21 Assembly hook

22 Assembly stand

23 Clamping strip for assembly stand

25 Puller

27 Ignition system tester ZAT 4

28 Ignition system tester ZAT 3

0000 850 3501

0000 855 9200

1110 141 8600

5910 890 4501

5910 890 4400

4112 893 2401

1117 890 0900

5910 890 2800

5910 890 2210

4118 890 6401

5910 893 8800

5910 890 3100

5910 890 2000

1116 893 0800

5910 850 4503

5910 850 4520

Use

Block crankshaft

Seal exhaust bore

Tension the piston rings

Leakage testing

Flare the starter rope guide bushing

Test crankcase and carburetor for leaks

Test crankcase for leaks, test tank vent

Test carburetor for leaks

Test carburetor for leaks

Remove limiter cap

Remove oil seals

Press in oil seal

Hook in clutch spring

Detach springs from clutch shoes

Fit hookless snap rings in piston

Set the air gap between ignition module and flywheel

Remove pick-up body

Hold chainsaw for servicing / repairs

Clamp machine to assembly stand

Remove flywheel

Test ignition system

Test ignition system

Rem.

94 MS 192 T

No.

Part name

29 Torque wrench

30 Torque wrench

31 Bit size 13

33 Combination wrench

35 Bit T 27 x 125

35 Bit T 20 x 125

36 Screwdriver T 20 x 100

37 Screwdriver Q-SW8x200

38 Stud puller

41 Crimping pliers

42 Assembly pin

Remarks:

1) Use only for releasing.

Part No.

5910 890 0302

5910 890 0312

5910 893 5608

1129 890 3401

0812 542 2104

0812 542 2041

5910 890 2301

5910 890 2420

5910 893 0501

5910 890 8210

1114 893 4700

Use Rem.

Screw connections (0.5 to 18 Nm)

Screw connections (6 to 80 Nm)

Crankshaft nut

Spark plug

Remove and install spline socket head screws with electric or pneumatic screwdrivers; tighten down screws with torque wrench

Remove and install spline socket head screws with electric or pneumatic screwdrivers; tighten down screws with torque wrench

1)

1)

1) Carburetor nuts

Remove rail mounting studs

Cable ties, cable lugs, etc.

Remove and install the piston pin

MS 192 T 95

16.

Servicing Aids

5

6

3

4

No.

Part name

1

2

Lubricating grease (225 g tube)

STIHL special lubricant

Part No.

0781 120 1111

0781 417 1315

7

Press Fluid OH 723

STIHL multi-purpose grease

Dirko HT red sealant

High-strength thread-locking adhesive (Loctite 270)

Standard commercial solventbased degreasant containing no chlorinated or hydrogenated hydrocarbons

0781 957 9000

0781 120 1109

0783 830 2000

0786 111 2109

Use

Oil seals, sliding and bearing points

Bearing bore in rope rotor, rewind spring in fan housing

Rubber buffers in AV system

High-voltage output on ignition module

Engine pan, oil seals (outside)

Cleaning sealing faces and the carburetor, cleaning the crankshaft stub and tapers in flywheel

96 MS 192 T

englisch / english

0455 217 0123. M5. B5. T. Printed in Germany

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