DUTCH GABLE

ATTACHED PATIO AND CARPORT

Your complete guide to building an

®

ATTACHED Outback DUTCH GABLE PATIO or CARPORT

BEFORE YOU START

Carefully read these instructions. If you do not have all the necessary tools or information, contact Stratco for advice. Before starting lay out all components, and check them against the delivery docket. The parts description identifies each key part. The component location diagram indicates their fastening position.

PARTS DESCRIPTION

RIDGE KNUCKLE

Slots inside the gable rafters to form connection at the ridge.

COLUMNS AND

RAFTERS

Pre cut 120 make up rafters and columns.

HIP PLATE

Connects purlins to the hip rafter.

EAVES KNUCKLE

Slots inside gable rafter and column to form connection at the eaves.

FOOTING PLATE

Slots inside column to form on concrete footing connection.

FOOTING

KNUCKLE

Slots inside column to form an in ground footing connection.

PURLINS

Purlins provide support for cladding.

RAFTER TO

VALLEY

BRACKET

This bracket fastens the rafter to the

150 attachment beam.

BARGE CAP

The barge cap covers the area where the deck finishes at the portal frame.

RIDGE CAP

This flashing covers the roof sheets at the gable ridge.

ALUMINIUM SPACERS

16mm Spacers are used to prevent the beam from crushing.

INFILL PANELS

Sufficient number of sheets are provided, from which the required infill panels can be cut.

1

WEATHER STRIP

Supports the infill panel and covers the sheet ends at the collar tie.

PANEL STRIPS

Panel strips attach to the infill panel where applicable.

SEATED CONNECTION

Fastens hip rafters to end frame.

HEX HEAD SELF

DRILLING

SCREWS

Screw types vary depending upon the connection, ensure correct screws are used.

10 x 16

12 x 20

14 x 95

FINIAL

(GABLE SPIRE)

Provides decoration at the apex of the end frame.

BOLTS AND RIVETS

Bolt types vary depending upon the connection, ensure the correct fixings are used.

PERGOLA WALL BRACKET

Fastens 120 end rafter to end frame.

68 mm PURLIN

BRACKET

This bracket fastens end purlin supports in place and end purlins to end purlin supports.

150 MODIFIED SUSPENSION

BRACKET

Fastens 150 end rafter to end frame.

COMPONENT LAYOUT

ATTACHED DUTCH GABLE

2

21

24

23

25

26

15

16

22

17

4

12

7

9

8

6

5

1

11

10

11

13

14

2

3

19

20

18

5

6

3

4

1

Attachment Beam

2

End Frame

Portal Frame

Purlins

Eaves Purlin

Hip Rafter

9

10

7

8

11

Collar Tie

12

End Purlin Support

13

Hip Plate Connection

14

Seated Connection

15

16

Pergola Wall Bracket or 150

Modified Suspension Bracket

17

Rafter To Valley Bracket

Eaves Connection

Eaves Knuckle

18

19

Ridge Connection

Ridge Knuckle

Roof Cladding

20

21

22

Footing Connection

Footing Plate

OR

Footing Knuckle

Ridge Capping

Barge Capping

ADDITIONAL MATERIALS

These materials are needed to complete the job but are not included in the basic kit price (they must be purchased as extra items, and their quantities specified):

Rafter strengthening brackets and channels to suit 150 beam attachment.

M12 bolts and nuts for fixing strengthening brackets to the rafter.

M12 bolts and nuts for fixing 150 attachment beam to strengthening brackets.

Any extra tie down or stiffening requirements for the house rafters.

Figure 1

23

24

25

26

Hip Flashing

Infill Panel

Weather Strip

Panel Strip

Box gutter in necessary (measurements required).

OPTIONAL EXTRAS

These items are available at request:

Cover flashings (measurements required)

On concrete footing plate, in lieu of footing knuckle

Chemical anchors for on concrete footings

Concrete

Panel Strips

Finial

1.0 INTRODUCTION

Please read these assembly instructions thoroughly before commencing the construction. Double check all dimensions, levels and bolting locations before cutting, screwing or bolting structural members. It is recommended that the persons erecting the structure have had some previous building experience because some modifications to the existing house structure are required.

2.0 ATTACHING TO AN EXISTING

STRUCTURE

The builder or council is to ensure the existing house/structure is of a suitable structural integrity and complies with all the relevant Australian Building codes and standards. For more information regarding the suitability of the house structure to accommodate the Stratco Attached

Dutch Gable, consult a structural engineer or a building authority. It is the builders responsibility to ensure that the existing house roof structure is strengthened correctly.

Refer to section 2.1 if attaching Dutch Gable on it’s side to a house, section 2.2 if attaching on it’s end to a house or refer to both sections if attaching the gable on it’s side and end.

2.1 ATTACHING ON SIDE TO HOUSE

A Stratco Dutch Gable attached on it’s side to a house is attached to the existing eaves overhang at the fascia.

The first objective in the construction is to fix a structural side beam along the fascia or wall, to which the Gable Unit is attached.

Most existing houses have not been designed for the attachment of portal framed gables to their side, therefore additional strengthening of the house rafters must be performed.

In order to strengthen the existing house rafters, the roof tiles or roof sheets need to be lifted to expose the roof frame. Steel rafter brackets and channels are then bolted along the house rafters. Refer to section 2.1.1.

A 150 mm Outba ck

® beam is bolted to the strengthening brackets at the fascia. Once the 150 attachment beam is secured to the house, the Gable Unit can be erected and fastened to the beam.

2.1.1 RAFTER STRENGTHENING

The first step is to determine the number of rafters which need to be strengthened and their location relative to the unit. You will have to lift some roof tiles or roof sheets to discover the rafter positions and spacings. The number of rafters which need to be strengthened is determined by the builder.

Note

: It is the builders responsibility to ensure the existing rafters and fascia are adequately reinforced and strengthened to accommodate any additional attached structure. The reinforcing method must be approved by the appropriate council or engineer.

3

Use an adjustable rafter strengthening bracket and one channel for eaves overhangs up to 450 mm. Use an adjustable rafter strengthening bracket and two channels for eaves overhangs over 450 mm and up to and including

600 mm, as shown in figure 3.

The adjustable rafter strengthening bracket is shown in figure 2. Please note that this bracket may not be suitable for applications where the front face of the house gutter is higher than 120 mm. In these cases please contact Stratco for alternative solutions.

ADJUSTABLE RAFTER STRENGTHENING

BRACKET

RAFTER

STRENGTHENING

BRACKET

M12 BOLT

TIMBER RAFTER

450mm EAVES OVERHANG

60x44x2.0 G450 GALVANISED

CHANNEL

RAFTER

STRENGTHENING

BRACKET

M12 BOLT

60x44x2.0 G450 GALVANISED

CHANNEL

2

TIMBER RAFTER

600mm EAVES OVERHANG

3

Fixing Rafter Strengthening Brackets and

Channels

The adjustable rafter strengthening bracket allows for an adjustment of pitch in the range of 15 to 30 degrees. The distance the bracket extends past the fascia is also adjustable to allow for standard gutters or box gutters with a width of up to 200mm.

In conjunction with rafter strengthening brackets, channels are fixed to the side of the house rafter (Figure 3). The bottom end of the channel will be located at the base of the house rafter. Holes should be marked and pre-drilled in the channels to suit the location of existing holes in the bracket.

The channel will extend beyond the bracket so additional holes are to be drilled in the channel at approximately

500mm centres.

Initially the bracket T piece shall be fixed to the bracket arm with two M12 cup head bolts (hand tighten only), a spring washer is to be located between the standard M12 washer and nut (Figure 4). Mark the position of the bracket on the fascia and notch a rectangular hole in the fascia allowing the bracket to be fed through the front of the fascia. The hole may need to be enlarged slightly if the M12 cup head bolts interfere with the fascia.

4 are to be tightened to a minimum 35Nm torque.

Fix the bracket as close to the base of the gutter as possible

(recommended distance 10mm from lowest end of gutter), as shown in figure 5.

The 150 attachment beam is to be fixed to the end plate to ensure the carport roof sheets drain into the existing house gutter (Figure 5).

ENOUGH CLEARANCE FOR

ROOF SHEETS TO RUN INTO

THE HOUSE GUTTER

CGI, POLYCARBONATE

OR

RAFTER

BRACKET ARM

T PIECE

TIGHTEN TO 35Nm

TORQUE

M12 WASHER

M12 SPRING WASHER

RAFTER

STRENGTHENING

BRACKET

FIX BRACKET AS CLOSE

AS POSSIBLE TO THE BASE

OF THE GUTTER

150 ATTACHMENT

BEAM

5

Fixing the 150 Attachment Beam in Place

M12x40 CUP HEAD

BOLT

M12 NUT

4

Insert the bracket through the fascia and fix with the channel(s) to the house rafter using M12 hex head bolts through the existing holes in the bracket and further up the channel(s) (Figure 6). Adjust the T piece so it is horizontal and has the appropriate extension past the fascia to allow for fixing of the attachment beam. T piece connection bolts

After fixing all the brackets and channels, the 150 attachment beam is fixed in place.

Prop up the 150 attachment beam in position with the double flange on top, the beam will need to be located at a height on the bracket which allows clearance between the gable roof sheets and the gutter. Fix to the end plates of the rafter bracket using two M12 bolts, with the bolt head on the

150 attachment beam side. Insert spacers to prevent the beam from crushing, and bolt in position, using nuts and washers.

The 150 attachment beam becomes the base for the attachment of the Dutch Gable unit for a side attached unit. Figure 6 shows a unit attached at the side. The 150 attachment beam becomes the end rafter of the Dutch Gable for a rear attached unit. Figure 7 shows a unit attached at the rear.

A

A

WEB

OVERHANG

TIMBER RAFTER

CHANNEL

EXTENSION

CHANNEL

ADJUSTABLE RAFTER STRENGTHENING BRACKET

ATTACH TO RAFTER WITH

6 (M12 HEX HEAD BOLTS)

EAVES PURLIN

FIXED TO 150

ATTACHMENT BEAM USING

14x95 SCREWS

EVERY 500mm

Recommended Channel Extension

Eaves

Overhang

(mm)

Channel Extension

Beyond Birds Mouth

(mm)

Web Overhang

(mm)

450

600

1800

1900

300

400

150 ATTACHMENT BEAM FIXED TO ADJUSTABLE

RAFTER BRACKET WITH TWO M12 BOLTS

GUTTER

STUD WALL

DUTCH GABLE ATTACHED AT THE SIDE

EAVES OVERHANG

BRICK WORK

END RAFTER FIXED TO

EAVES PURLIN & 150 ATTACHMENT BEAM

150 ATTACHMENT

USING PERGOLA WALL OR

MODIFIED SUSPENSION

BEAM

BRACKET

ADJUSTABLE RAFTER STRENGTHENING BRACKET CONNECTION

BOLTS TIGHTENED TO A MINIMUM 35Nm TORQUE

6

5

A

A

WEB

OVERHANG

TIMBER RAFTER

CHANNEL

CHANNEL

EXTENSION

STUD WALL

ADJUSTABLE RAFTER STRENGTHENING BRACKET

ATTACHED TO RAFTER WITH

6 (M12 HEX HEAD BOLTS)

REAR ATTACHMENT PURLIN

FIXED TO TOP OF ATTACHMENT

BEAM USING 14x95mm

SELF DRILLING SCREWS

EVERY 500mm

HIP RAFTER

GUTTER

SEATED HIP

CONNECTION

DUTCH GABLE ATTACHED AT THE END

Note: Do not over tighten bolts as this can lead to a visable indentation due to the high gloss nature of the material.

Refer to figure 8 for fixing spacers.

To insert spacers drill 11 mm holes through the 150 attachment beam. Then drill 16 mm holes on the outside face only ie, this time do not drill all the way through. This will allow the spacer to slide in from the outside and stop at the other side as shown in figure 8.

RAFTER

STRENGTHENING

BRACKET

150 ATTACHMENT BEAM

DOUBLE FLANGE

SPACER

WASHER

M12 BOLT

NUT

12 MM HOLE

ENLARGED HOLE

(16 MM THIS SIDE ONLY)

8

A cover flashing may be ordered as an additional option and custom made to cover the exposed brackets and holes through the fascia. Rivet flashings in place, figure 9 suggests a simplified flashing. You may however use your imagination and design a flashing that suits your individual taste.

EAVES OVERHANG

BRICK WORK

150 ATTACHMENT

BEAM (END RAFTER)

ADJUSTABLE RAFTER STRENGTHENING

BRACKET CONNECTION BOLTS

TIGHTENED TO A MINIMUM 35Nm TORQUE

HOUSE

GUTTER

7

150 ATTACHMENT

BEAM

RIVET

FASCIA

STRENGTHENING

BRACKET

RIVET

COVER FLASHING

(OPTIONAL)

9

Note: It is the builders responsibility to ensure the existing rafters and fascia are adequately reinforced and strengthened to accommodate any additional attached structure. The reinforcing method must be approved by the appropriate council or engineer.

2.2 ATTACHING ON END TO HOUSE

If fixing a Dutch Gable on its end to an attachment beam

(Figure 7), elevated to the existing house gutter height, a purlin is fixed to the top of the attachment beam using

14x95mm hex head self drilling screws. The purlin and attachment beam assembly are to be fixed at a location which allows clearance between the gable roof sheets and the gutter. The 150 attachment beam is fixed to rafter strengthening brackets as detailed in section 2.1.1.

3.0 MARKING OUT CARPORT POSITION

3.1 IN GROUND FOOTING

Place stakes at the carport column locations using the appropriate dimensions from the drawings supplied.

Where more than two internal portal frames are required space them evenly along the length. Refer to drawings for frame centre spacings.

Ensure that the end frame spacing and the width of the carport are exactly as specified in the drawings supplied.

Note:

These column locations are very critical, as the roof sheet lengths are governed by these dimensions.

Tie string lines between the stakes to ensure the footings are in line. Check the dimensions and diagonals for squareness.

Dig holes to the required size as stipulated by your Council

Application Form. Place bricks in the bottom of the holes to give a solid base onto which the footing knuckles can be positioned.

Note:

A slight fall should be allowed for toward one end of the unit at which the downpipes will be located.

3.2 ON CONCRETE FOOTING

If bolting columns onto an existing concrete slab check to ensure concrete dimensions allow for anchor edge distance and anchor depth. Stratco does not take any responsibility for concrete failure.

The erector/owner is responsible for ensuring that the slab is capable of supporting the structure.

Mark the position of the columns from the drawings supplied. Where more than two internal portal frames are required space them evenly along the length. Refer to drawings supplied for frame centre spacings.

Ensure that the end frame spacing and the width of the carport are exactly as specified in the drawings supplied.

Note:

These column locations are critical, as the roof sheet lengths are governed by these dimensions.

Check the marks with a string line to ensure the footings are in line. Check the dimensions and diagonals for squareness.

Mark the position of the holes through the existing holes in the base plate. Remove the base plate and drill into concrete using the values given in Table 1.

Note:

Do not drill completely through slab as chemical anchors require a solid base to bear against. It is recommended that the minimum slab depth is 1.25 times the anchor hole depth.

Use chemical anchors (for size refer to Table 1) together with the appropriate anchor capsules and install according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Leave the Stud Bolt undisturbed for the minimum time specified by the manufacturer for the resin to cure.

Curing times are dependent on the concrete temperature at the time of installation.

RAFTER/RAFTER JOINT

(RIDGE CONNECTION)

COLUMN/RAFTER JOINT

(EAVES CONNECTION)

UNITS ATTACHED

AT REAR

COLUMN BASE

(FOOTING CONNECTION)

RAFTER/RAFTER JOINT

(RIDGE CONNECTION)

COLUMN/RAFTER JOINT

(EAVES CONNECTION)

COLUMN BASE

(FOOTING CONNECTION)

6

Note: Footing plates are not fixed until portal frames have been assembled.

CARPORT CHEMICAL ANCHOR

SIZE (mm)

HOLE DIAMETER

(mm)

HOLE DEPTH

(mm)

12 95

GENERAL

M10x130

CARPORTS

³

5000mm WIDE

IN W41 WIND SPEEDS

OR HIGHER

TABLE 1

M12x160

4.0 FRAME ASSEMBLY

14 115

4.1 PORTAL FRAMES

Place the knuckle connections inside the portal frame members, using a hammer to tap in position (a block of timber should be used whenever hammering to avoid damaging paintwork).

Important note:

Knuckles are colour coded as follows, ensure that the correct knuckle is used for each connection.

Join all frame members; first insert eaves knuckle into column to rafter joint, next the footing knuckle/ base plate into the column base and then finally the ridge knuckle into the two halves of the frame at the ridge (refer to Figures 10 and 11 for knuckle locations).

Use a hammer at the eaves knuckle to join the two sides together. If knuckles are difficult to insert apply a lubricant or grease.

UNITS ATTACHED

ON SIDE

HAMMER

BLOCK OF

WOOD

10

HAMMER

BLOCK OF

WOOD

11

4.1.1 EAVES AND RIDGE CONNECTIONS

Screw together eaves and ridge connections, using two

12x20 hex head self drilling screws both sides of each member and two 12x20 hex head self drilling screws through the top (double flange side) of each member. Pilot holes indicate screw locations as shown in figures 12 and

13.

Make sure that the two ends are flush at the connection, leaving no gaps.

Note:

An eaves purlin connection bracket is attached as part of the eaves connection to the side/s of the portal frames using two 12x20 hex head self drilling screws as detailed in figure 13 (pre-drill for ease of fastening).

RIDGE

CONNECTION

TWO 12 X 20 HEX HEAD SELF

DRILLING SCREWS THROUGH

TOP OF BOTH RAFTERS

RAFTER

EAVES

CONNECTION

RAFTER

TWO 12 X 20 HEX HEAD SELF

DRILLING SCREWS EACH SIDE

OF BOTH RAFTERS

12

TWO 12 X 20 HEX HEAD

SELF DRILLING SCREWS THROUGH

TOP OF EAVES PURLIN CONNECTION

AND RAFTER

EAVES PURLIN

CONNECTION

RAFTER

TWO 12 X 20 HEX HEAD SELF

DRILLING SCREWS BOTH

SIDES OF RAFTER AND

COLUMN

TWO 12 X 20 HEX

HEAD SELF DRILLING

SCREWS THROUGH

OUTSIDE OF COLUMN

COLUMN

13

4.2 END FRAMES

Assemble the front (and rear for units attached on the side only) end frames. Pre-drill an 11 mm diameter hole 34 mm down from the top of the column through the double flange side (eaves purlin will be bolted at this location) as shown in figure 14.

Note:

frame.

Double flange must always be on the outside of the

7

For a 120mm end rafter, attach a pergola wall bracket

30mm down from the top inside face of the column. If a

150mm end rafters is required fix a 150mm modified suspension bracket 30mm down from the top inside face of the column. Brackets are fastened using three 10x16 hex head self drilling screws.

Slip the end rafter into the connection and fasten with two

10x16 hex head self drilling screws either side as shown in figure 14.

INTERNAL PORTAL

RAFTER

DOUBLE

FLANGE

30 mm

68 mm 34 mm

END RAFTER

10 mm DIA

HOLE

DOUBLE

FLANGE

FASTEN WITH TWO

10x16 SCREWS ON EACH SIDE

AND THREE 10X16 SCREWS

AT REAR

END

COLUMN

14

5.0 FRAME ERECTION

5.1 SIDE ATTACHED

5.1.1 END FRAMES

Fasten the eaves purlin on attached side to the top of the

150 attachment beam using 14x95 hex head self drilling screws at 500mm centres. The eaves purlin shall be the same length as the 150 attachment beam.

For a 120mm end rafter, fix a pergola wall bracket to the 150 attachment beam and 68 mm eaves purlin at the end frame position, using three 10x16 hex head self drilling screws.

For a 150mm end rafter, fix a 150mm modified suspension bracket to the 150 attachment beam and eaves purlin in the same manner. Please note that the top of the end rafter lines up with the top of the 68 mm eaves purlin (Figure 6).

5.1.2 PORTAL FRAMES

For units attached at the side, fix the rafter to valley brackets to the 150 attachment beam at the correct portal frame positions using six 12x20 hex head screws per bracket through the pre-drilled holes (Figure 15). Please note the bottom face of the bracket lines up with the bottom edge of the lower groove in the 150 attachment beam

(Figure 15). Check positions before drilling.

Ensure that the spacing between the end frame and the first portal frame is correct at both ends of the unit. Any internal portal frames should be evenly spaced between these two portal frames.

150 VALLEY

BEAM

20

25

25

40

8

Bolt all columns to the footing knuckles through the predrilled holes using M10 cup head bolts as shown in figure 18. Ensure that the bolt heads are all on the same side of the frame.

Concrete the footings and leave overnight to cure.

Note:

The concrete should be finished slightly raised towards the column, ensuring water runs away from the column, see figure 16A. A 5-10mm gap should be left between the bottom of the column and the concrete.

Important Note:

The concrete is to only be in contact with the footing knuckle. If concrete or soil is in permanent contact with the columns, corrosion will result in the base of the coloured column. Refer to the "Selection, Use and

Maintenance of Stratco Steel Products" brochure for complete details of maintenance requirements.

9

PORTAL FRAME

CLAMP

BRACKET POSITION INLINE WITH

THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE

LOWER GROOVE

150 ATTACHMENT BEAM WITH 22°

RAFTER TO VALLEY BRACKET

30

25

25

BRACKET POSITION INLINE WITH

THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THE

LOWER GROOVE

150 ATTACHMENT BEAM WITH 30°

RAFTER TO VALLEY BRACKET

15

5.1.3 IN GROUND FOOTING

Stand the portal frames and remaining end frame in the appropriate footing locations and brace in position with clamps and struts (Figure 16A).

Locate the end frames in the pergola wall brackets or modified suspension brackets and check that the column base is at the ground surface and the clear opening between the column and the 150 attachment beam is correct. Finally and most importantly check that the columns are vertical.

Fix the end rafters to the pergola wall brackets or modified suspension brackets using two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws either side.

Stand the internal portal frames in the appropriate footing locations and temporarily brace in position with clamps and struts (see Figure 16A).

Locate the portal frames in the rafter to valley brackets and check that the column base is at the ground surface and the clear opening between the column and the 150 attachment beam is correct. Finally and most importantly check that the columns are vertical.

Fix the gable rafters into the rafter to valley brackets with two 12x20 hex head screws either side (Figure 17).

FINISH CONCRETE

SLIGHTLY RAISED

TOWARDS COLUMN

BRICK

END PORTAL

FRAME

BRACES

FOOTING

KNUCKLE

CLAMP

16A

BRACES

CONCRETE

FOOTING

PLATE

16B

5.1.4 ON CONCRETE FOOTING

Stand the end frames in the appropiate footing locations and temporarily brace in position with clamps and struts

(see Figure 16B).

Locate the end frames in the pergola wall brackets or modified suspension brackets and check that the column base is at the ground surface and the clear opening between the column and the 150 attachment beam is correct. Finally and most importantly check that the columns are vertical.

Fix the end rafters to the pergola wall brackets or modified suspension brackets using two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws either side.

Stand the internal portal frames in the appropriate footing locations and temporarily brace in position with clamps and struts (see Figure 16B).

Locate the portal frames in the rafter to valley brackets and check that the column base is at the ground surface and the clear opening between the column and the 150 attachment beam is correct. Finally and most importantly check that the columns are vertical.

Fix the gable rafters into the rafter to valley brackets with two 12x20 hex head screws either side (Figure 17).

TWO 12x20 HEX HEAD

SCREWS EITHER SIDE

120

RAFTER

150

ATTACHMENT BEAM

RAFTER TO VALLEY

BRACKET

17

Bolt all columns to the footing plates through the predrilled holes using M10 cup head bolts as shown in figure 18.

Ensure that the bolt heads are all on the same side of the frame.

FOOTING

CONNECTION

2 (M10 CUP HEAD

BOLTS) THROUGH

PRE DRILLED HOLES

COLUMN

COLUMN SHOULD

NOT COME INTO CONTACT

WITH CONCRETE OR SOIL

18

9

Fix the rear attachment purlin to the top of the 150 attachment beam using 14x95 hex head self drilling screws at a maximum of 500mm centres. The attachment purlin shall be the same length as the 150 attachment beam. The eaves purlins will end flush with the back of the rear purlin and is fixed in place with a 68mm purlin bracket.

5.2.2 PORTAL FRAMES

.

Ensure that the spacing between the end frame and the first portal frame is correct at both ends of the unit. Any internal portal frames should be evenly spaced between these two portal frames.

5.2.3 IN GROUND FOOTING

Stand the portal frames and remaining end frame in the appropriate footing locations and brace in position with clamps and struts (Figure 16A).

Check that the base of all columns are at at the ground surface and most importantly that the columns are vertical.

Bolt the columns to the footing knuckles through the predrilled holes using M10 cup head bolts as shown in figure 18. Ensure that the bolt heads are all on the same side of the frame.

Concrete the footings and leave overnight to cure.

Note:

The concrete should be finished slightly raised towards the column, ensuring water runs away from the column, see figure 16A. A 5-10mm gap must be left between the bottom of the column and the concrete.

Important Note:

The concrete is to only be in contact with the footing knuckle. If concrete or soil is in permanent contact with the columns, corrosion will result in the base of the coloured column. Refer to the "Selection, Use and

Maintenance of Stratco Steel Products" brochure for complete details of maintenance requirements.

5.2.4 ON CONCRETE FOOTING

Stand the portal frames and remaining end frame in the appropriate footing locations and temporarily brace in position with clamps and struts (see Figure 16B).

Check that the base of all columns are at the ground surface and most importantly that the columns are vertical.

Bolt the columns to the footing plates through the predrilled holes using M10 cup head bolts as shown in figure 18.

Ensure that the bolt heads are all on the same side of the frame.

Bolt the footing plates to the chemical anchors installed earlier (refer Section 3.2).

Note

: A 5-10mm gap should be left between the bottom of the column and the footing plate.

5.3 HIP RAFTERS

Screw the four seated hip rafter connections to the top inside corners of the structure level with the top of the eaves purlin and end rafter. Fix with two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws, see figure 19.

The hip rafter angles away from the end frame at 45° and is screwed onto the internal portal frame as shown in figure 20.

Note:

This 45° angle is critical in ensuring correct shape of the Dutch Gable and therefore the sheet lengths.

Cut the hip rafters to length and pre-drill with one 14 x 95 hex head self drilling screw at the end, ensuring the double thickness flange is at the top. Position the hip rafter on the seated connection and fasten the underside with two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws.

Screw the other end to the top of the internal portal rafter through the pre-drilled hole at the mid point. Do not over tighten to prevent crushing of the hip rafter.

Fix the hip rafter connection plate to the underside of the hip rafter at the location of the side purlin joint using two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws in the holes provided (Figure

20).

TWO 10x16 HEX HEAD

SCREWS

EAVES PURLIN

END FRAME

10

5.4 COLLAR TIE

The collar tie spans horizontally across the outside of the internal portal frame. It aligns with the top of the hip rafters, so the front roof sheets can run continuously over the end rafter, end purlin/s and collar tie.

Pre-drill through the double flange material with one 14x95 hex head self drilling screw at each end and fasten to the side of the portal frame. In this case, ensure the double flange faces outward.

5.5 END PURLIN SUPPORTS

End purlin supports (68mm purlins) are only required if indicated in the drawings supplied. End purlin supports span between the collar tie and the end frame and are to be fastened in place using 68mm purlin brackets.

If only one end purlin support is required fasten one

68mm purlin bracket mid-span of collar tie and a second mid-span of the end frame (inline with the top of the end rafter) using two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws per bracket (Figure 21). If two end purlin supports are required, fasten brackets at third points along the end rafter and along the collar tie so the end purlin supports are perpendicular to the end rafter, (ie, two along the collar tie and two along end rafter using two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws per bracket) (Figure 22).

Measure, cut and mitre the end purlin supports to fit flush between the collar tie and end frame ensuring the double flange is on top.

Fasten the end purlin supports in place using two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws either side, top and bottom

(Figures 21 and 22).

ONE END PURLIN SUPPORT

COLLAR TIE

SEATED CONNECTION

19

HIP RAFTER

SIDE PURLIN

68mm PURLIN BRACKET

TWO 10 X 16 HEX HEAD SELF

DRILLING SCREWS EACH

SIDE AND AT REAR

END PURLIN

SUPPORT

END

PURLIN

COLLAR TIE

END PURLIN

SUPPORT

21

END RAFTER

END PURLIN

HIP RAFTER

CONNECTION PLATE

20

COLLAR TIE

68mm PURLIN BRACKET

TWO 10 X 16 HEX HEAD SELF

DRILLING SCREWS EACH

SIDE AND AT REAR

END PURLIN

SUPPORT

TWO END PURLIN SUPPORTS

COLLAR TIE

END

PURLIN

END RAFTER END PURLIN

SUPPORTS

22

6.0 PURLINS

6.1 EAVES PURLIN

Cut the eaves purlins to the correct length. Pre-drill both eaves purlins for units attached at the rear and only one eaves purlin for units attached on the side with 11 mm diameter holes at the end frame locations. Only drill holes through the inside of the eaves purlin.

Pre-drill the end frame columns and bolt the eaves purlins on the unattached side to the end frame columns using the

M10x20mm hex bolts and washers provided. Ensure the purlin is level with the top of the end column (Figure 23).

Insert plastic end caps into the open ends of the eaves purlin.

END COLUMN

M 10x20mm

BOLT & WASHERS

EAVES

PURLIN

11

6.2 SIDE PURLINS

The outside face of the top purlin is positioned no greater than 80mm from the gable ridge, it may be necessary to remove the 12x20 hex head screw closest to the apex

(Figure 24). Any intermediate purlins are spaced evenly on the rafters, ensuring the maximum recommended deck end spans are not exceeded.

Those purlins that finish at the first portal frame should finish flush with the rafter chamfer. Those purlins that finish at the hip rafter should be mitred at 45° to finish flush with the hip rafter. Fix to the hip plate connection using two

10x16 hex head self drilling screws.

MAX 80mm

TOP

PURLIN

EAVES

PURLIN

RIDGE

PORTAL FRAME

TWO 10X16 HEX

HEAD SELF DRILLING

SCREWS

24

Where purlins are continuous over rafters, they are fixed in position using 14x95 hex head self drilling screws. If it is necessary for purlins to be broken over standard gable frames (ie, purlins continue in the same direction past a join) a 68mm in-line purlin connector is used (Figure 25).

Note:

By drilling pilot holes and screwing through the top of the purlin before lifting it into position, the process of screwing into the rafters is made easier. Pilot holes should also be drilled through rafters at the fixing location.

TWO 14X95 HEX HEAD

SELF DRILLING SCREWS

TWO 10X16 HEX HEAD

SELF DRILLING SCREWS

EITHER SIDE

23

For rear attached units, fix the other end of the eaves purlin to the end of the rear attachment purlin as detailed in section 5.2.1.

Fix the eaves purlin to the eaves purlin connection brackets, fixed to the internal portal frames (Section 4.1.1), using two

10x16 hex head self drilling screws (Figure 24).

SLIDE ADJOINING PURLIN

INTO CONNECTOR & FIX

WITH TWO 10x16 HEX HEAD

SELF DRILLING SCREWS

EITHER SIDE

PURLIN

RAFTER

25

6.3 END PURLINS

Cut (and mitre if necessary) end purlin/s to span between the end purlin supports and the hip rafters. 68mm purlin brackets are to be fastened to the end purlin supports where they meet the front purlin/s using two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws.

Fix the end purlins to the hip plate connections using two

10x16 hex head self drilling screws and to the 68mm purlin brackets using two 10x16 hex head self drilling screws either side.

Note:

If no end purlin support is required then the end purlins span between hip rafters.

7.0 GUTTER ASSEMBLY

Gutter located along the side of the gable unit is to be fixed to the eaves purlin. End gutter is fixed with metal strips and deck straps to the end rafter. Gutters will need to be mitred at corners and all gutter joins are to be waterproofed with silicone.

Notch a hole in the gutter and insert a downpipe pop so that the downpipe is in line with an end portal column. Fasten the pop in place using rivets and silicone seal.

Note:

If your column footings are in ground you would have installed your portal frames with a slight fall towards the downpipe end. Ensure that the gutter is notched at the right end. However, if you are bolting the footings on to an existing concrete slab and there is a slight fall in the slab, ensure that the downpipe is at the lower end of the slab to help the water run off.

Cut 80mm long metal strips from the band supplied. For side gutters bend the straps as shown in figure 26 to allow clearance between roof sheets and gutter. Pop rivet these tags to the top of the eaves purlins or end frame at 1200 mm centres as appropriate. Rivet the back lip of the gutter to these tags, ensuring the back face of the gutter is held vertical as shown in figure 26. Waterproof rivets with silicone.

Once the decking is installed, attach the universal deck straps at maximum 1200mm centres by crest fixing to the roof sheets with 10x16 screws.

DECK

PORTAL FRAME

EAVES

PURLIN

12

80mm METAL STRIP

FIXED TO EAVES PURLIN

AT 1200mm CENTRES

UNIVERSAL DECK

STRAP

GUTTER

DOWNPIPE POP

26

Construct two 70mm downpipe offsets from the downpipe lengths supplied and attach to the downpipe pop with rivets.

Waterproof rivets with silicone. Fasten the downpipes with straps to the adjoining column.

Note:

For details on making downpipe offsets and gutter mitres refer to the Stratco D.I.Y. “Gutter and Downpipes” brochure.

8.0 ATTACH DECKING

Refer to figure 27 for the order and laying direction of carport roofing. Initially, begin with a full length sheet in section 1 laying in the direction indicated, continue to the side of the Dutch Gable section. Cladding will need to be positioned, marked and then cut to fit over the side Dutch

Gable sections. Offcuts from section 1 are then used in section 2 and layed in the direction as shown in figure 27.

This process is continued around the Dutch Gable unit until fully clad (i.e. offcuts from section 2 to begin section 3, section 3 offcuts to begin section 4, etc).

Roof sheeting should overhang at the eaves into the gutter by approximately 40mm and overhang the top purlin to give a maximum 100mm gap at the ridge (Figure 28). Sheeting is layed to the centreline of hip rafters and as offcuts are reused, it is critical cuts are clean and accurate. Also, have the lap joint facing away from the prevailing wind direction on all carport roof faces (figure 29).

3

2

13

OFFCUT FROM

SECTION 1

DECKING

4

5

1

POLYCARBONATE

OR CGI

ROOF SHEET

MAX

100 MM

PURLIN

FIXING SCREW

USE 5 SCREWS PER ROOF SHEET FOR END

FIXING & 3 SCREWS PER ROOF SHEET FOR

INTERNAL FIXING

LAYING DIRECTION PREVAILING WIND

TYPE 12x35 ROOFING SCREWS (CREST FIX)

27

28

Crest fix CGI with 12x35mm roofing screws or polycarbonate sheeting with 12x45mm screws with polycarbonate washers. Sheets are fastened using five screws per sheet for end spans and three per sheet for internal spans. At the hip rafters and collar tie, sheets can be pan fixed with 10x16mm hex head self drilling screws.

Note :

For cyclonic conditions ensure a cyclonic washer assembly is included with every fixing.

LAP

ALIGN END SHEET WITH OUTER EDGE

OF REAR PORTAL FRAME

29

9.0 FIX FLASHINGS AND INFILL PANELS

Refer to figure 30 for all flashing positions. In general fasten all flashings using roofing screws through sheeting to purlins. To join flashing overlaps use 3mm pop rivets and when fixing flashings to the infill panels use split-tail rivets.

Waterproof all rivets with silicone.

INFILL PANEL

PANEL STRIPS

GABLE SPIRE WITH

CONNECTION BRACKET

RIDGE CAP

BARGE CAP

WEATHER STRIP

HIP CAPPING

30

9.1 DUTCH GABLE WEATHER STRIP

Position the weather strip along the collar tie with its leading edge resting on top of roof sheets. Notch the weather strip to fit around the gable rafters.

9.2 INFILL PANELS

Cut triangular gable infill panels (from the rectangular panel provided ), to fit the vertical gable frames located at each end of the Dutch Gable roof. Paint the panels to the desired colour before installing. Rest the panels on the weather strip and fasten the panels onto the adjoining rafters through the top groove using 8x35 self embedding screws spaced at 500 mm centres in non-cyclonic areas and

250mm centres in cyclonic areas.

Panels are fixed at the base through the weather strip with split tail soft pull rivets at 500mm centres.

9.3 HIP CAPPING

Attach the small lengths of hip capping to cover the hip rafter seams and mitre to fit the gutter corner.

9.4 BARGE CAPPING

The barge capping is fixed to the crest of the CGI roof and the front of the gable infill panel. Mitre barge capping to overlap the weather strip and hip capping so as to give a neat water tight finish at the Dutch gable junction.

Waterproof joint with silicone.

9.5 RIDGE CAPPING

The ridge capping can now be attached. The ridge capping should finish flush with the end of the carport, overlapping the front and rear barge capping to provide a weather proof seal.

14

10.0 HELPFUL TIPS

Leave plastic coating on members until they are about to be fastened to the structure. This will help prevent scratching of the coloured finish.

Sweep the roof and clean gutters after the completion of work. Ensure any swarf and rivet stubs are removed as they can cause unsightly rust stains.

Do not allow soil to remain in permanent contact with the columns, as corrosion will result in the base of the column.

Refer to the “Selection, Use and Maintenance of Stratco

Steel Products” brochure for complete details of the maintenance requirements.

Leave bracing struts in position until structure is complete and concreted in. This stabilises the structure and holds it square during construction.

Double check all measurements and drilling locations before proceeding.

Regularly check framework for squareness and vertical alignment to make sure it hasn't moved during construction.

11.0 MAINTENANCE

Regular washing or hosing of the inside and outside of your

Stratco Heritage Outback will ensure it looks its best at all times. Refer to the "Selection, Use and Maintenance of

Stratco Steel Products" brochure for complete details of maintenance requirements.