RCU Review: AeroWorks Extra 260 ARF-QB

 RCU Review: AeroWorks Extra 260 ARF-QB More On This Product
Discussions on this Product Show user ratings Check for Retailers Contributed by: Jake Ruddy | Published: February 2008 | Views: 44514 |
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Review by: Jake Ruddy
Specifications
Assembly
Flight Report Summary
Manufacturer & Distributor
Info
Immediately when I personally think of AeroWorks the first thing
that pops into my mind is the 35% Extra 260, you see lots of
pictures and videos of it all over the Internet. Needless to say
when I was asked about doing a review on it's little brother (or
sister if you prefer) I was excited. QB is something you see a lot with AeroWorks' name and it stands
for Quick Build. AeroWorks has already done majority of the work
for you which includes; hinging, pre-mounted canopy and canopy
hatch, finished wheel pants (just bolt on), firewall templates, and
tuned pipe / canister ready just to name a few things they have
tuned pipe / canister ready just to name a few things they have
done. One thing for sure is that it doesn't take too long looking at this
plane to see how much thought went into it.
AeroWorks
Let's get to it! 401 Laredo St Unit "D" Aurora, Co 80011 Phone: (303) 366-4205 www.aero-works.net Acrobatic
Low Bandwidth Video CLICK HERE to Watch
Acrobatic
High Bandwidth Video CLICK HERE to Watch
3D Low Bandwidth Video CLICK HERE to Watch
3D High Bandwidth Video CLICK HERE to Watch Kit Name: 50cc Extra 260 ARF-QB Price: $629.95 retail price
Wingspan: 85in Overall Length : 75 in (rudder to spinner tip)
Wing Area: 1270 sq in
Tested Weight : 16.6 Pounds
Motor Size : 50cc
Radio: 8 Channels Servos: 2 x aileron servos (min 180 in./oz. Torque,
Digital, Metal geared), 1 x rudder servo (min 180 in./oz. Torque,
Digital, Metal geared), 2 x elevator servos (min 180 in./oz. Torque,
Digital, Metal geared), 1 x throttle servo (Fast / Reliable), 1 x
choke servo (Fast / Reliable) optional
As Tested:
Complete Hardware Pack Easy to Build High quality wheel pants Overall Looks AeroWorks claims "World
Class Aircraft" and this one is
no exception. Brillelli 366GT (60cc) 5 x Hitec 5955TG
A123 2300 Receiver pack 1 cell 1500 Lipo for ignition JR 9030 2.4 GHZ + R921 Smart-Fly PowerExpander Sport Plus
Pete Models 3.5" Extra CF Spinner Allen wrenches US and Metric
Dremel cutting disc and sanding drum tool
Electric drill and selection of bits Razor saw Razor saw Flat head screwdriver Hobby heat gun Hobby iron and covering sock Monocoat Trim Solvent Masking tape Modeling knife Needle nose pliers or crimping tool Paper towels Pen, pencil or felt tipped marker Phillips screwdriver Rubbing alcohol Ruler and tape measure Scissors T pins Waxed paper Wire Cutters 15-30 Minute epoxy Blue Loctite Epoxy mixing cups, mixing sticks, brushes CA kicker (optional) Thick, Thin and Medium CA Unpacking
Unpacking
Unpacking
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Unpacking
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Unpacking
Unpacking
Unpacking
The boxes arrived with the outside box a little beat up. I was a bit worried, but I assumed it would be
double boxed anyhow so things should be ok. To my surprise there was some thin wood sheeting that
lined the inside of the outer box which made sure the inside box and contents would be safe. Sure
enough not a dent on the inside box.
Upon opening the boxes I quickly noticed that a lot of thought and care had went into the
arrangement of everything inside. This not only made it easy to find everything, but it also made sure
nothing moved or got broken while being shipped.
The wings were in a separate box which was also treated to a liner of wood surrounding the inside box.
All of the parts were individually sealed in bags which made it easy to sort through everything, make
sure you had all the parts required, and allowed you to sort out parts so you can start to pre plan your
building order.
The packing job itself is amongst the best I have seen to date. Iron Everything Use heat gun to tighten 3 in 1 oil hinges After laying out the parts I decided to look through the manual. The manual comes on CD and has
more pictures than you could ever want. It is very well done and should answer any questions you
have along the way to ensure your build goes smoothly. First thing you are going to do is continue to unpack everything, make sure you take your time so that
nothing gets damaged in the process. Now is the time to inspect everything to make sure you have all
the parts and that everything is in good shape.
What you want to do now is get out your heat gun and covering iron so that you can go over the entire
plane to make sure everything is attached firmly. I like to use the iron on all seams, hinged areas,
wing tips, ailerons, elevators, and then the heat gun to tighten everything up. It is very important that you catch all of the seams with the covering iron. The overlaps of covering
must have a strong bond to ensure long life of your model. Since this is a QB everything except for the rudder is hinged. I noticed the hinges were a little bit
tight. A couple drops of 3 in 1 oil on the hinge points and moving the surfaces to max deflection a
couple times took care of this right away. ** Make sure you are careful with the oil on the hinges and wipe it up right away. You will
want to seal your hinge gaps and the oil will prevent the covering or tape from sticking.
Sealing Seams
Measure clear covering Attach at one end Stretch and attach to other Start in the middle Trim excess Seal with Trim Solvent AeroWorks has included some clear covering so that you can cover the seams on the leading edges of
both the wings and the stabs. This step will make sure the covering can't separate on the leading
edges in flight. First thing you want to do is clean the wings and stabs with some paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Make sure you take your time and clean well so that the covering will stick properly and your end
result will be near invisible. I started with my wings and measured out the clear covering against the leading edge so I knew I had
the correct amount. Make sure you cut so that you are not wasting a lot of covering. There is enough
clear covering included to do all 4 leading edges, however if you use it too sparingly then you will
come up short on the last surface. The easiest thing to do is to line it up so that it is centered over the seam and then take your covering
iron and attach the covering to one end first. Then stretch it out and tack the other end in place. Once
you are satisfied with the positioning you can use your covering iron and begin to attach the clear
covering securely It is best to start in the middle and work your way out to the ends. Make sure you
take your time to avoid wrinkles. Lastly, after I am done with the iron I used a little bit of Trim Solvent and wiped it over the leading
edge to make sure everything is sealed well. ** HINT When you separate the clear covering from the backing it can be hard to tell which part is
the covering, an easy way to tell is that the backing part will have static electricity on it and curve
around your hand. Aileron Setup
Checking throws Checking throws Fish line Measure extension String to fish extension with Drill servo mounts Harden servo holes Fish extension
Mount servo Gather hardware
Assemble hardware
Complete linkage First I wanted to check out the throws and the hinging, as you can see in the pictures looks pretty
good! There is a string glued into place which allows you to easily pull your servo extension through the
wing. The instruction manual recommends 18" extensions however I think 12" is more than enough. I
actually ended up using a 6" extension since I was fresh out of 12" extensions. You want to make sure you pre drill the servo mounts with a 1/16" drill bit and then use some thin CA
to harden the servo mounting holes. Once you are sure the CA is cured tie the string to the end of the
servo lead and fish the wire through the wing. You can now mount your servo in place. The hardware pack includes some nice control horns which the surfaces are pre drilled for. Sometimes
even though they are drilled they don't quite line up and you have a bit of extra work to do. All of the
pre drilled holes were perfect on every surface which was an added plus.
After you assemble the horns and gather all of the hardware you will want to use some thick or
medium CA on each of the wood screws holding the control horn place. Ball links and linkages are
included so the control linkage assembly goes extremely smooth and doesn't take much time at all. Elevator Setup
Checking throws
Sealing gaps
Sealing gaps Assemble hardware Elevator completed Completed
Once again I took a quick peak at the throws and then began installing the elevator servos. First I sealed the gaps. I choose to use foamy hinge tape because it is easy to apply and every time I
use covering I end up with a noise when the surface moves. I adapted hinge tape because it's so quick
and easy. I also did this on the ailerons and the rudder. The gaps are very small, but it is worth the
extra step to seal the gaps. After you have measured the extension (you will need a 36") you can begin to mount the servo. Once
again you will want to pre drill the holes with a 1/15" drill bit and harden them with CA. You can then gather your hardware and begin to assemble the linkage. Once again make sure you use
some medium or thick CA on the screws for the control horns to ensure a strong attachment. Rudder Assembly
Check covering on rudder Cut painters tape in half Complete one side Same on other side Oil hinges (carefully!) Little dap will do ya Apply glue to hard point
Insert hinges Attach rudder If you haven't already done so, make sure to use your heating iron and go over your rudder to make
sure it's nice and tight. There are several schools of thought when it comes to hinging, some use epoxy, some use gorilla glue,
and some use other glues that are available. You will need to decide what works best for you, the
manual recommends epoxy, and I prefer Gorilla Glue so that is what I used. The way I do my hinges is pretty simple, cover the hinge holes with blue painters tape, and then use a
#10 blade to clean out the hole. I then take a razor blade and gently cut the tape in half which makes
it easier to remove after the glue dries. Once I have the surfaces ready it's time to get the hinges ready for glue. Again there are a couple
schools of thought here, some use oil on the hinges, and some use vaseline. I used to use vaseline,
however I have decided oil works better for me. The key is whatever you use, be careful! The whole
point of this step is so that glue doesn't get caught in your hinges, but if you get careless glue won't
be sticking to your hinge points either and that will lead to a short flight.
When I have everything ready I apply the glue and insert the hinges making sure they are straight an
centered. I then apply some more glue to the other side so that I can hinge the surface completely in
one step. This can be done in 2 parts if you like, for me I like that I can line everything up and move
the surface back and forth to ensure my hinges are perfect. For the first 15 mins or so with Gorilla Glue it will foam and you have to keep cleaning it. Once the
foaming slows down I then use some painters tape and tape the rudder to the fuse so that the foaming
won't push out the rudder and make a large gap.
You will want to let this dry for at least 2 hrs before you play with it and let it continue to dry over
night.
** HINT With Gorilla Glue a little bit will do, it expands a lot so make sure you don't use too much or
you will have a real mess on your hands. You only need about as much as a toothpick can hold,
maybe a tad more. Pull / Pull Setup
Pre drill rudder servo Harden mount holes Gather hardware
Mount control horn Fish pull/pull cable Thread cable through swage Loop through swage Crimp swage CA swage Start servo end
CA swage Tighten cables Now that we have our rudder hinged we can complete the pull/pull system.
To begin, mount your rudder servo using the same technique you used for the aileron and elevator
servos. Pre drill with a 1/16" drill bit and then use some thin CA to harden the mounting holes. After
the CA has full cured you can mount your servo.
I then mounted the control arms on the rudder. Once again the holes are pre drilled for the horns and
this process goes smoothly. Don't forget to use some medium or thick CA on the wood screws before
you screw them in to mount the horns.
The pull / pull system uses steel braided cabling, the easiest way to run it is to insert it into the exit
hole and pull it up through the fuse. To secure the cable you run it through a brass swage, then
through the brass coupler hole, and then back through the brass sage. For extra security it is highly
recommenced that you loop the cable through the brass swage a 2nd time before you crimp it. The fit
is quite tight so it will take some extra patience to get he 2nd loop completed, but the extra security is
worth it. Once you are happy with the loop size, distance from coupler, and positioning you can use a pair of
pliers and crimp the brass swage. Make sure you use a lot of force to get it as tight as possible, you
can also use a C-clamp if you wish. After it is crimped use some thin CA on the crimp to make sure
your cable can't loosen.
Now that you have completed this once, you have to do it 3 more times. I decided to loop the line in
the coupler on the servo next but before I finished it I completed the other side at the rudder.
Before I finalized the crimps at the servo end I used some blue painters tape and taped the rudder
counter balance and double checked my servo was in neutral by powering it on with the transmitter
trims set to neutral. Once I had the servo centered I then began to tighten up the lines. You want to
get them fairly tight before completing the crimping process so that you won't fall short on threads
when tightening the couplers.
Once you have crimped all 4 ends you can begin to tighten your pull / pull by screwing in the couplers.
Make sure you use pliers in the middle of the couple and NOT on top where the cable links through.
This will prevent burrs near the cable which can eventually cut your pull cable. Also make sure your
radio is on during this process and that the wires are tight but the servo does not bind in center or at
either end point. * HINT - Make sure you use pliers in the middle of the couple and NOT on top where the cable links
through. This will prevent burrs near the cable which can eventually cut your pull cable. ** HINT - Your cables will stretch over time, make sure you check them often and tighten as needed. Tail wheel Setup
Locate tail wheel
CA wood screws Attach tiller Mount tail wheel
Adjust springs Tail wheel compete The hardware includes a nice light tail wheel assembly complete with everything you need to install a
fully functional tail wheel All holes are also pre drilled to make a quick and easy install. First locate all the of the tail wheel parts and mount the tiller arm. Make sure that you use some
medium or thick CA on the screws so that once they are screwed in they will remain secured. The tiller
arm uses 2 screws to hold it in place and arms should be closest to the fuse as shown above. Once the tiller arm is in place you can use the 3 wood screws to mount the tail wheel, make sure you
use medium or thick CA on the screws. Lastly you can install the included springs, center them between both tillers and make them tight
enough so you have good steering control with no play around center. Lastly use some pliers and twist the wire closed around the tillers to make sure it remains secure. You
can use some side cutters to trim off any excess if you need to. Main Gear
Locate hardware Remove plate Mounting holes
Use blue loctite on gear bolts Tighten gear Attach gear plate Attach axles
Tighten axles with wheel
pants
Loctite wheel collars
Tighten wheel collars
Bottom view Wheel pants complete The main gear is a pretty simple process as well since all holes have been pre drilled, blind nuts
installed, wheel pants assembled, and landing gear cover has already been mounted.
Before I get into this I did want to point out how great the quality was on the wheel pants. Not only
are they very nicely painted, but the actually strength and overall quality of them is excellent. Since I
fly off of grass wheel pants always need re enforcing so they will last a decent amount of time. These
wheel pants are very well made and no extra work is needed.
Begin by removing the 2 screws for the landing hear cover. You will see everything is done to accept
the gear. Locate the 4 washers, 4 lock washers, some blue loctite, and the 4 mounting bolts. Make
sure you go washer, lock washer, then screw head and mount the landing gear, don't forget the blue
loctite.
After the gear is mounted you can attach the axle, do not completely tighten it in place yet, just snug
it up. You want to align the axle so that the 2 flat spots are vertical which allows the wheel pant to
slide down over the axle. Temporarily attach the wheel pant using supplied screws, make sure you
don't use any loctite yet. Now use the wheel pant slot to hold the flat sides of the axle you can fully
tighten the axle with a wrench.
Remove the wheel pants so we can put the wheel and wheel collars on. Trial fit everything before using
loctite, you will find the outside wheel collar needs to be close to the edge of the axle in order to
center the wheel in the wheel pant. Once you are satisfied with your positioning you can use some blue loctite, loctite the wheel collars in
place, and then reattach the wheel pants, this time using blue loctite to keep them in place. Engine Installation
Mark engine mounting holes Prepare to drill holes Test fit
Transfer to firewall Drill firewall
Loctite bolts
Mount Standoffs Mark Ignition Mark Ignition
Velcro Straps Completed
Completed
The AeroWorks 260 comes with 2 templates, one for the DA 50 and one for a 3W-55. I used the DA
50 template and test fit the Brillelli 60 to it and then transferred it to the firewall.
First you need to mark the thrust lines on the engine so you can line them up with the template. After
you have done that you can trace the standoffs so you know where to drill. Once the template was
drilled and test fit with bolts, I used the template to mark the holes on the firewall and drilled them.
Make sure you use some loctite and mount the standoffs to the firewall. I then mounted the ignition by marking 4 spots for attachment and used the supplied velcro to attach
the ignition to the firewall.
The process goes fairly smoothly and if you take your time you will get it right the first time. Cowl Cutting
Find center of paper Find center of fuse Trace muffler and engine Cut paper Center on cowl Trace to cowl
Cut cowl with exit hole Finished with needle access Cutting the cowl can be a daunting task because you on get one shot to get it right. If you take your
time and trace it step by step you will get it right and it will fit nicely when done.
Find a piece of paper and mark the center of it, then mark the center of your fuse. Tape the paper to
the fuse and then pull it forward so you can trace the engine. Once you are happy with the tracing you
can remove the paper, cut out the holes, center it on the cowl, and trace the holes on the cowl.
If you are using a side dump muffler, make sure you make an air exit hole and cut that as well.
Finally once you are all done you will need to cut a hole for your carb needles if you have an engine
with a side mounted carb. Fuel System
Locate fuel system Mount clunk
Mark tank
Plumb tank
Fuel dot and T Insert tank
Mount tank
Mount fuel line trap Mount vent The fuel system on this plane is much the same as most. Everything is supplied that you need except
a fuel dot.
Simply prepare your clunk so so it moves around the bottom of the tank and doesn't get stuck and put
your tank together. I generally mark my tank because down the road I am sure to forget which is the
vent line.
Install your choice of fuel dot and a fuel "T" so that you can drop the completed tank into place easily.
Then you can use some zip ties and tie the vent line around the back of the tank before it goes outside
of the fuse to create a trap. The trap will make sure when you put your plane on it's nose fuel will not
rush out.
After everything is all said and done you can attach your vent line how you like. I just used a plastic
clamp and screwed it in place.
** HINT Make sure that you wire tie, and or fuel barb all of your lines. Targon expands a bit over
time once gasoline touches it and the lines will work themselves off. Throttle Servo / Batteries
Mark throttle linkage Solder linkage Epoxy servo mount Notice PLASTIC ball link A123 2300 pack 1 cell Lipo (ignition) At this point we are pretty close, all we have left to do is a last servo, mount some batteries and then
the final radio components. Excitement is already starting to build.
First I marked where the servo linkage would line up with the throttle arm. The hardware package
includes linkages for both the throttle and the choke if you use one. Simply make it the length / shape
you need and solder on an end.
Once your linkage is made you will want to attach it and get ready for the final fit for the throttle
servo. The hardware kit also includes a nice servo mount that you can epoxy in place where you need
it.
Lastly I put my batteries for the radio and ignition in place. On this plane I am using an A123 pack I
made and a 1 cell lipo for ignition. Take notice that I made the 1 cell lipo in a floating style mount so it
won't see any vibration and I can remove it easily to charge it. I can not explain how important it
is to take out a 1 cell lipo when you are charging... it takes 2 secs and will be 10x safer
period. Final Touches
Ignition cut off PowerExpander Sport
Plus
The PowerExpander Sport Plus is designed specifically for
5-cell NiCd/NiMH or 2-cell A123 battery packs. It uses
standard R/C plugs to connect the battery packs to the
unit. For this reason, it is recommended for planes with
40cc to 85cc gas engines. It also has a built in BatShare,
Ignition Cutoff and can be used with an optional failsafe
switch. For detailed information please see the user
manual links above the picture. Ignition armed light Receivers armed For 40cc to 85cc aircraft only
Uses 5-cell NiCd/NiMH or 2-cell A123 battery
packs. Buit-in BatShare for battery input protection Filtered and regulated 5.0V power to receiver Receivers can be end-loading or top-loading Eight servo channels LED indicators for servo and receiver power Full RF filtering of all signals in and out of unit Fully buffered signal line for each servo Long servo lead line matching Integrated Ignition Cutoff Operates with optional Failsafe-switch Light weight, 1.9 oz (54g) Compact design, 2.6? x 3.5? Visit Smart-Fly's web site: www.smart-fly.com PowerExpander User Guide PowerExpander Sport Plus Cutoff User
Guide Smart-Fly Sport Plus installed
Smart-Fly fail-safe pin switch Finally we are at the last step, install the radio equipment, Smart-Fly sport plus, ignition kill, and
fail-safe switch. All of this goes smoothly and depends on your desired CG. I was able to keep
everything in stock locations. I ended up just slightly tail heavy from the 3" mark, but not enough to
stop me from doing a maiden on it. Precision Throws:
Low Rate
Ailerons - 2 1/2"; or 25° up, and 2 1/2"; or 25° down
Elevator - 1 3/8"; or 12° up, and 1 5/8"; or 16° down
Rudder - 2 1/2"; or 35° both directions High Rate
Ailerons - 3"; or 30° up, and 3"; or 30° down
Elevator - 2"; or 18° up, and 2 1/4"; or 24° down
Rudder - 3 1/2"; or 40° in both directions 3D Throws:
Ailerons - 3 1/2"; or 35° up, and 3 1/2"; or 35° down
Elevator - 4 1/2"; or 45° up and 4 1/2"; or 45° down
Rudder - 6"; or 45° in both directions Photo Shoot
Strike a pose
Firstly, I must be honest, I only have a total of 5 flights on this
plane. Here in the North East weather is not exactly on our side
at this time of the year and flying days are few and far
between. Both days I had a chance to get it out I was dealing
with 15-20 mph winds which made for some interesting flying.
As I mentioned near the end of the review I was just slightly
tail heavy, and while it wasn't a huge problem in the air by
any means, I could definitely feel it in harriers and hovering.
The tail was just a touch sensitive. All of this aside I think you can quickly tell in the videos this
260 flies great! You really couldn't ask for a plane that
snapped better, it stopped right when you asked it to.
The rudder on this plane is extremely effective and it came in
The rudder on this plane is extremely effective and it came in
handy a couple of time down low. Knife Edge flight was very
nice and controllable with minor coupling. Rolls of course being a 260 were very nice and smooth.
3D wise this plane will take anything you throw at it. With the
ailerons pre-hinged they were extremely effective in rolling
harriers and made this plane excel at them.
Tumbles are very exciting, you can see in the beginning of the
3D video this plane really winds up in KE spins and Blenders.
Overall this plane was a joy to fly from the very first minute. It
required almost no trim and response is great on all counts.
I am definitely looking forward to spring time when the
weather is more forgiving and I will be able to get this plane
fine tuned. Acrobatic
Low Bandwidth Video CLICK HERE to Watch
Acrobatic
High Bandwidth Video CLICK HERE to Watch
3DLow Bandwidth Video CLICK HERE to Watch
3D High Bandwidth Video CLICK HERE to Watch This is the first AeroWorks plane I have spent time with outside of an older 35% Edge. Being a QB
series, it is very easy to put together and it almost puts itself together. I am very impressed with the
overall quality of the whole plane right down to the decals. One thing I was really impressed with was
the wheel pants. They are very strong and should hold up to any grass field around. The plane with the Brillelli 60 came out at 16.6 pounds stock with a Pete Models 3.5" Spinner. The
power to weight ratio is great and allows you to do anything you are capable of.
I wasn't expecting the chance to review this plane, so when I got the opportunity I was pretty excited.
After having 5 flights on it I can honestly say it hasn't let me down one bit. AeroWorks claims "World Class Aircraft" and while you see this plane's big brother all over the
Internet, this smaller version will please anyone who is looking to get into the 50cc market. It is tame
on low rates and an animal on high rates, yet it lands very predictable and has a nice predictable stall
point.
AeroWorks
401 Laredo St Unit "D" Aurora, Co 80011 Phone: (303) 366-4205 www.aero-works.net Brillelli Model Aircraft Engines
34638 Plum Hill Lane Avon, MN 56310 Phone: (320) 249-7420
www.brillelli.com
Hitec RCD
12115 Paine St. Poway, CA 92064 Phone: 858-748-6948 Web site: www.hitecrcd.com Pete Model
1872 Roland-Marcoux Saint-Hubert, Québec Canada, J3Z 1E3 Phone: (450) 443-8677
www.petemodel.com
ZAP and Pacer Adhesives
Distributed by Frank Tiano Ent.
3607 Ventura Drive E. Lakeland, Florida 33811 Phone 863-607-6611 Web site: http://www.franktiano.com Comments on RCU Review: AeroWorks Extra 260 ARF-QB
Posted by: Dale Adams on 02/06/2008
Profile I liked the review. I am just getting into 3D and have put together a Lanier Edge 540 ARF (that's a joke). I have
40 hours of assembly time so far and a replacement fuselage as the first was twisted. Will fly with a ZDZ Super 80 this
coming spring.
Posted by: robertp17 on 02/21/2008
I really liked the review, makes me wish I owned one ;)
Profile Posted by: bjamesjr on 03/05/2008
Profile Nice review Jake, Yep it looks like it flew very well. I've flown one of these and something I found out with
Blenders is to slowly feed in the ailerons as the plane builds speed coming down (so start up really high) and once you
get full ailerons in, bury the elevator and rudder and go to half or better throttle and if you think it winds up tight in
the video, wait until you try it that way. The owner of the one I flew asked me to land. He thought for sure I tore
something in the wings and to tell you the truth I thought I did as well For the KE spins come off the rudder once it
gets going, the tail will whip out nice and level and she'll spin right around the wing tube. Once it's going
add some bottom rudder into it and she'll flip into a flat spin and stop right there and spin right around the CG
with a tad opposite aileron. Coolest thing I've ever seen an Extra do. The only plane I've ever seen do
that is my 33% Edge and Yak See you at the field Bill James
Posted by: scotty35 on 05/13/2008
Great review! I'm getting into 3D and pattern this year, and have intentions on getting this very plane.
Can't wait to get one, and get it up there!!!!
Profile Page: 1 The comments, observations and conclusions made in this review are solely with respect to the particular item the editor reviewed and may not apply
generally to similar products by the manufacturer. We cannot be responsible for any manufacturer defects in workmanship or other deficiencies in
products like the one featured in the review. EMAIL THIS ARTICLE OR CHECK OUT THESE OTHER GREAT REVIEWS!
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Seagull
Models
Steen Super
Skybolt 15cc ARF
Seagull Models introduced this biplane early on in
2015, and SIG mfg. had a pre-production sample
at the Toledo Expo. That pr...
11/20/2015
ST Model
Salto
ST model brings us a fun aerobatic glider with the
H101 Salto. The self-launch electric glider has no
bad tendency and will b...
11/19/2015
RCGF
10cc Gasoline
Engine
RCGF, a Chinese manufacturer of gasoline
engines, designs and manufactures engines
specifically for 'the RC aircraft market. ...
11/17/2015
Seagull
Models
RCGF
Funky Cub 10-15cc The new Funky Cub has some really cool
attributes, borrowed from scale aircraft, that
ARF
should add up to make it a great flying...
20cc Gasoline
Engine
RCGF, a Chinese manufacturer of gasoline
engines, designs and manufactures engines
specifically for 'the RC aircraft market. ...
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11/23/2015
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11/15/2015
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