Marine Heater
Installation Instructions - For the following HEATER model numbers: 200, 300, 400,
500 Series Hydronic Heaters
Approximate Installation Time: 3-5 Hours
Tools Required:
#2 Phillips Screw Driver; Power Drill; 7/64” Drill Bit; 1”-4” Hole Saw; Hose Cutter; Wire
Crimper; Teflon Plumbers Tape; Marine Sealant; Pencil.
6672 W. Boekel Rd. Rathdrum, ID. 83858 | (208) 687-4400 | www.heatercraft.com
Guidelines and Definitions
These instructions contain information that is important
for you to know and understand. The information
provided relates to safety issues for the installation and
use of our products. To help you identify important
information, we use the following system.
Warning
Important safety information – A hazard that may cause
an injury, serious injury, or loss of life.
Caution
Information for preventing improper operation of, or
damage to equipment.
Note
Information pertaining to the installation, operation,
and/or maintenance of this product that should pay
special attention to.
Heater Craft will not be held liable for an accidental
damage to persons and/or property resulting from
any installation not completed within the specified
guidelines started herein.
Operation Warning
Carbon Monoxide (CO) is emitted from the engines’
exhaust. Do not run the engine without proper
ventilation. Do not run the engine in a confined
space or where back drafting may occur. For more
information about carbon monoxide refer to ABYC
standards: A-7, T-22(1), and TH-23; or contact one of
the following agencies.
American Boat and Yacht Council, Inc
(410)956-1050
United States Coast Guard
(754)441-3287
ww.uscgboating.org
National Marine Manufacturers Association
(313)946-6200
Boat U.S.
(703)823-9550
www.boatus.com
Heater System
1. Layout the heater system in the boat before installation
and make sure the mounting location of the heater unit
and routing of all the hoses will work.
Warning – Do not mount the heater unit into the bilge
area or any compartment that may draw air away from
the bilge.
Types of Heater Installation:
Ducted units typically mount under the helm or in a
storage area that will allow routing of the vent hoses to
desired vent locations.
Grill Mounted units typically mount into a stairwell or
into a storage area.
Note – Our heater units are equipped with 5/8” heater
core outlets. Please make sure that you have the proper
size of heater hose and fittings for your installation. If
the hoses and heater core outlets are not the same
size, it is necessary to install a hose coupling with the
proper hose sizes to prevent coolant leakage.
2. Determine your source for the hot water supply.
Main engine – This installation is like your automobile;
engine coolant will circulate from the engine to the
heater unit and return to the engine.
Caution – If your engine application has a freshwater
closed cooling system the heater unit should be
mounted below the level of the radiator cap. If the
heater is mounted above this level it is possible for air
to become trapped in-line. If there is air trapped in-line
it will not allow the water to circulate efficiently and
may cause the engine to overheat. If the heater unit is
mounted above the radiator cap it may be necessary to
install an in-line air bleed valve at the highest point or
an in-line circulation pump.
Main engine with separate coolant loop for the heater
– This installation will require additional components.
You will utilize a water exchanger to transfer heat from
the engine’s cooling system to the heater loop. A
pump is needed to circulate the water in the heater
loop. Basic instructions are outlined on page 7.
Boiler-type system – Refer to the manufacturer’s
instructions for hook-up information.
Note – Be sure the hoses are not kinked or pinched in
any way, and do not contact any moving parts, sharp
objects, or edges. They can be secured with a plastic
tie.
3. Route and secure the heater water/coolant hoses
between the heater unit location and the hot water
source.
Engine
Warning- Hot engine coolant can cause severe burn!
Never open the cap on a hot radiator. Some vehicles
are equipped with electric fans that may start without
warning even with the engine shut off. Wait until the
engine has cooled completely before installation.
Note- Due to the wide variety of engine applications,
the following are general instructions for a gasolinepowered engine hook-up. Please call technical support
at (208)687-4400 with your questions regarding your
specific engine application.
Always use silicone sealant or Teflon tape on the
threads of all fittings before installing to prevent water/
coolant leakage.
1. The standard thermostat on a carbureted marine
engine is 142F. This heater system will operate more
effectively using a 160F thermostat- this change only
applies to CARBURETED ENGINES ONLY. Do not
change the thermostat on a fuel injected engine, as
catastrophic engine failure can occur. When installing a
new thermostat, a new gasket must be used to seal the
housing to the intake manifold.
2. Locate and remove the cooling system plug on the
intake manifold. This would be located at the front
of the engine near the thermostat housing or on the
thermostat housing itself (On some applications it may
be necessary to remove the temperature sending unit
and install a brass tee). Install the proper size hose
barb, 5/8” hose barb x ½” MPT.
Caution- The intake manifold also has vacuum ports.
If you connect to a vacuum port, water/coolant will
be drawn into your engine and may cause internal
damage.
Note- If you remove a sending unit, it is necessary to
test the gauge operation after reinstalling to be sure it
is properly grounded.
The hot water pressure will increase with engine RPM.
This means on some applications the heater will cool
down during periods of extending idling. If your engine
is normally operated at low engine RPM’s it may be
necessary to install an in-line circulation pump. Please
contact technical support (208)687-4400 for options.
3. Locate and remove the plug on the water pump
housing and install the proper size hose barb.
Note- If your particular engine does not have a plug
to remove, it is necessary to install a hose tee into the
large hose connecting the thermostat housing to the
water pump. Please contact technical support (208)6874400 for options.
4. Cut the water/coolant hoses to length, attach with hose
clamps and secure in place.
Note- Fasten the hose clamps near the end of the hose
to prevent the hose end from “mushrooming” and to
prevent coolant leakage.
Heater Installation
1. Locate the area(s) for mounting the hot air vents.
Note- Vents should be located so the heat will blow
out in a desirable direction and allow easy access for
adjustments. Install them in areas that are protected
from damage from gear or persons.
2. Drill or cut the proper size hole to match the vents that
you are using.
Heater Craft Vents:
H5041B Directional Euro Vent – use 3”hole saw.
H509 Hot Tube Extendible Vent – Use 4” hole saw.
Grilled/surface mount units:
400 Series (Sport, Pro, Elite and COM), cut out a 6 ¾” x
16” rectangle.
500 Series (Sport, Pro, Elite and COM), cut out a 6 ¾” x
9 ¾” rectangle.
3. Mark the location of the mounting holes and pre-drill.
4. Mount the heater unit in the area chosen with the
heater core in a horizontal position when possible.
Note- It may be easier to make the hose and wiring
connections before mounting the heater unit.
5. Cut the water/coolant hoses to length, attach them
with hose clamps, and secure in place.
Note- Fasten the hose clamps near the end of the hose
to prevent the hose end from “mushrooming” and to
prevent coolant leakage.
6. Connect the hoses to either barb on the heater core.
7. Install the vents in place and attach the vent hose.
Secure the vent hose with a plastic wire tie or hose
clamp.
8. Route the vent hose to the heater unit.
Note- Route the vent hose in a way that prevents
damage from gear or persons.
9. Cut the vent hose to length, attach with a plastic wire
tie or hose clamp to secure in place.
Wiring the Fan Motor
The wire leads from the blower are color coded and
correspond as follows:
YELLOW- Low Speed
RED- Medium Speed
ORANGE- High Speed
BLACK- Ground
E-112 3-Speed Rotary Switch connection instructions
Terminal 1 or A- Yellow blower wire
Terminal 2 or B- Red blower wire
Terminal 3 or C- Orange blower wire
Terminal 4 or D- Fused 16g POWER 12V wire- red
2-6069 2-Speed Rocker Switch connection instructions
Terminal 1- Yellow blower wire
Terminal 2- Fused 16g POWER 12V wire- red
Terminal 3- Orange blower wire
ELITE 2-Speed Rocker Switch connection
instructions
Snap the 2-6069 Rocker Switch into the ELITE switch
plate and locate a FLAT- suitable location to clear all
four sides of the panel.
Mark the area on the panel or gunnel directly behind
the switch and check for clearance on the back sideavoid cutting/drilling into wires, cables, etc. Using a
1.50” Hole Saw bit- drill the hole to clear the switch
back. Place the panel over the cut-out and mark the
mounting holes with a pencil, Pre-Drill and mount the
panel using the screws provided.
Note- The 2-6069 Two-Speed switches can be wired to
accept any two of the three speed wires on Terminal
1 and Terminal 3. Call Technical Service with any
questions regarding mounting, wiring, etc.
Testing the Installation
Warning: Carbon Monoxide (CO) is emitted from the
engine’s exhaust. Do not run the engine without proper
ventilation. Do not run the engine in a confined space
or where back drafting may occur.
1. Test the fan motor on all settings.
Note- If the airflow does not correspond to the switch
setting, the wires are not on the proper terminal. Refer
to the wiring instructions and recheck the switch wiring.
2. Check all hot-air outlets to make sure there are no air
restrictions.
3. Prepare to run the engine.
Warning – Keep hands, hair, loose clothing and tools
away from all moving parts.
Caution- Make sure the water source is properly
connected to the engine.
Raw-Water Cooled Engine
1. Run the engine and check for leaks at the hose barbs,
hose connections, heater hose, and heater core.
Closed Cooled Engine
1. Refill engine-cooling system to the required level.
Operate engine until normal operating temperature is
reached.
2. Shut off the engine and check the heater core, hose
connections, and all hoses for coolant leaks.
3. After engine has cooled, recheck the coolant level.
Note- On an, engine application it is necessary to
increase the engine RPM to create effective hot
water flow. Shop testing will not provide adequate
water temperature or flow to test the maximum air
temperature output. Most engine applications require
a water test to achieve actual heater output.
Winterizing
Raw-Water Open Cooled Engine
The heater unit and hoses should be drained of
water to prevent freeze damage. This can be done by
removing the hoses at the engine and blowing the
water out of the heater unit and hoses. An RV antifreeze or water/anti-freeze solution can be added for
extra protection and to prevent rust or corrosion.
Caution- Do not exceed 35 psi when blowing out the
heater core.
Freshwater Closed Cooling
It is not necessary to winterize as long as you are using
a sufficient water/anti-freeze solution as needed for the
climate conditions in your area.
Optional Equipment
H415 In-line Circulation Pump
1. Locate and mount the pump.
Note- Do not mount the pump into the bilge or
any location where it may become submerged. The
warranty for the pump will be void if, upon disassembly,
we determine that the pump has been submerged in
water for any length of time.
2. Cut the return water hose from the heater unit.
Note- The output hose is connected to the intake
manifold or thermostat (most V-8 gasoline engines).
The return is connected to the water pump or the large
hose between the thermostat housing and the water
pump (most V-8 gasoline engines).
3. Attach the hoses to the corresponding ports on the
pump.
Note- Fasten the hose clamps near the end of the hose
to prevent the hose end from “mushrooming” and to
prevent coolant leakage.
4. Wire the pump to the switch or use 2-7061 Auxiliary
Pump harness to power the pump and heater unit
using standard four position switch. (The pump and
switch should be protected with a 10-amp in-line fuse.)
The pump wires should be routed with the factory
wiring harness whenever possible.
Note- The wires should be routed away from moving
parts, high heat sources such as engine exhaust
manifolds and sharp edges or objects.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my heater cool down when I’m idling?
Open cooling system- The majority of applications
have an open cooling system. This means that there
is no pressure in the system. The water pressure is
created by the engines’ circulation pump. The engine
must be at 1200 to 1500 RPM to create enough
pressure for the circulation pump to circulate water to
the heater.
Location of the heater unit – In your automobile, the
heater is located close behind and below the engine.
This allows optimum circulation. In your boat, the
heater may be above the level of the engine and may
have a greater distance between the engine and heater
unit.
In-line circulation pump – If your engine is normally
operated at low RPM’s it may be necessary to install an
in-line circulation pump or low idle wye.
Does it matter which way the hoses hook up to the
heater core outlets?
No, it does not. The water/coolant will flow through the
core in either direction.
I have luke warm air coming out of the heater.
The hot water pressure will increase with engine RPM.
This means on some applications the heater will cool
down during periods of extended idling. If you operate
your engine at low engine RPM’s, it may be necessary
to install an in-line circulation pump.
On an, engine application it is necessary to increase
the engine RPM to create effective hot water flow. Shop
testing will not provide adequate water temperature or
flow to test the maximum air temperature output. Most
engine applications require a water test to achieve
actual heater output.
Hose routing – Check the routing of the hoses between
the engine and heater unit for any kinks or restrictions.
In-line circulation pump – If your installation has more
than 15 feet of hose between the unit and the engine
or if the heater unit is mounted more than 18” above
the level of the engine, it may be necessary to install an
in-line circulation pump.
Heater Craft 4 Year/48 Month Limited Warranty
Heater Craft warrants your Hydronic Heater System
and Shower/ Wash Down System to be free from
defects in material and craftsmanship under normal use
and service by the original consumer purchaser for a
period of four (4) years from the date of purchase. This
limited warranty excludes to the circulation pump, if
applicable. The warranty is null and void if the system
has been damaged by accident, improper installation,
unreasonable use, lack of proper maintenance,
unauthorized repairs or modifications, or causes not
arising from defects in materials and craftsmanship.
Heater Craft’s obligation under this warranty are limited
to repair of the product at Heater Craft’s production
facility, or the replacement of the product at Heater
Craft’s option and at Heater Craft’s expense. Any
expense involved in the removal, reinstallation, or
transportation of the product is not covered by this
warranty. Prior to return of any product to Heater
Craft customer must contact Heater Craft customer
service (208) 687-4400 and obtain a return authorization
number. This number must be marked on exterior
of carton for easy identification. Warranty product
received at Heater Craft without a Return Authorization
Number may be returned at expense of sender.
Notes:
6672 W. Boekel Rd. Rathdrum, ID. 83858 | (208) 687-4400 | www.heatercraft.com
Send defective product to:
Heater Craft
6672 Boekel Road
Rathdrum, ID 83858
Attn: Warranty Dept.
Postage must be prepaid, and the original dated proofof-purchase must be included. Heater Craft will not
be liable for any damages sustained in transport due
to improper packaging or handling. The acceptance
by Heater Craft of any product returned shall not be
deemed as an admission that the product is defective
or in any violation of any warranty.
This warranty is Heater Craft’s only express warranty
of this product. We reserve the right to make changes
to products and policy that are in the best interest of
Heater Craft Marine. No implied warranty shall extend
beyond (4) four years from the date of the original
consumer purchase. Heater Craft will not be liable for
any damages, for loss of use of this product, nor for any
consequential damages, costs or expenses.
Some states do not allow limitations on how long an
implied warranty lasts or the exclusion of incidental or
consequential damages, so the above limitations and
exclusions may not apply to you. This warranty gives
you specific legal rights and you may also have other
rights not mentioned here that vary from state to state.
Open as PDF
Similar pages