I N S TA L L AT I O N I N S T R U C T I O N S
Aeratis Porch Flooring must be installed in accordance with installation instructions to maintain the product warranty. The
recommendations below are, in no way, meant to supersede local or national building codes. Before installing, check all applicable
building codes. This is a condensed version of the installation instructions. For specific questions or a more detailed version of our
installation instructions and for complete painting instructions, please visit the Aeratis website (www.aeratis.com).
GENERAL INFORMATION
Store Aeratis on a flat surface, supporting material every 2 feet. Aeratis Classic, Heritage or Traditions can be installed on either
covered or uncovered porch applications. For best results, pay close attention to the slope and ventilation suggestions. This can
help limit standing water and extend the life of your joist system.
TOOLS
For cutting and ripping Aeratis Classic or Traditions, you can use a standard miter saw, circular saw, jigsaw or table saw with carbide saw blades.
Standard router and router bits may be used.
FASTENERS (NO SPECIFIC BRAND OF FASTENER IS REQUIRED) STAINLESS STEEL IS ALWAYS BEST PRACTICE
1.
2.
3.
4.
GRK #8 x 2” stainless steel trim-head screws (PheinoxTM RT CompositeTM) or the GRK #8 x 2” Climatek coated TrimTMHead
(uses T-10 starhead bit) (For information on where to buy screws, visit www.grkfastners.com)
Simpson Strong Tie type 305 Stainless Steel (Trim-head Decking Scew 305 or 316 #6, 7, or 8).
Pneumatic flooring nailer with T or L barbed cleat nails (best practice to use a construction adhesive if your are using a
pneumatic nailer) 2” stainless steel is best practice.
Pneumatic flooring stapler - 2” 15 gauge 1/2” crown stainless steel flooring staples
* Please note, you cannot use a hand held pneumatic stapler, framing gun or finish nailer. Aeratis is too dense and the nails
may not penetrate the material nor does it have the holding power needed for exterior flooring.
PREPARATION
Aeratis recommends leaving a 1/4” gap where the product meets any wall, column or vertical surface. Leaving a gap will
allow spacing for the porch/home to settle or move with the changing of temperature/weather. When Aeratis porch flooring
is fastened to a wood joist, it should be installed in a well ventilated application creating continuous airflow around the joist.
FAILURE TO DO SO, CAN ACCELERATE THE DECAY OF YOUR WOOD JOIST. If your installation is a waterproof install, make sure you
completely seal up any gaps where your Aeratis boards meet structures using a clear, paintable 100% silicone product.
Aeratis porch flooring must be properly supported with structural blocking and framing under columns and porch posts to prevent
sagging and possible structural failure over time. Also, make sure all joist are flush with one another. If one joist is higher or lower
than others, it may be reflected in the porch surface.
Install Aeratis porch flooring on joists no greater than 16” on center (10” on center for stair applications). Installing Aeratis perpenStarter anchor
dicular to the house is recommended to help promote water runoff. If you are looking to make your
installation waterproof, you should run the Aeratis boards perpendicular to the house. By doing so, you will
promote rather than restrict water runoff. It is best practice to slope Aeratis 1/4” per foot away from the
house to enable wind-blown rain to run off the porch faster than it weep between the boards. To assist
in reducing the water from weeping between the boards, we recommend adding a bead of paintable,
100% clear silicone caulk in the groove just before inserting the tongue into the groove and securing to your
substrate.
INSTALLATION
Square your first board to the house and fasten into place (you may want to consider ripping the groove off this first board if it
is going to be exposed). If you are using screws to fasten Aeratis to the joist, insert
the screw just above the tongue at a 45‌o angle or less and counter sink the screw
a minimum of 1/16” into the material. NOTE: If the tongue cracks, you are putting
too much pressure on the tongue and you should reduce the angle of your screw.
Take the next Aeratis plank, line-up the groove to the tongue and slide into place.
Make sure the boards are completely snug together and then fasten to the joist If
you are using a pneumatic nailer, it is best practice to us a joist adhesive such as
Titebond (Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive). NOTE: To reduce weeping water, use
paintable,100% silicone caulk in the groove before sliding into place. Also, your fastener
must be completely counter sunk into the material. The tongue and groove must
be completely clear of all debris for each board to go together completely. It is best
practice to leave an overhang between 2” to 3 1/2” to keep water further away from
your foundation.
CORNER APPLICATIONS
It is recommended that you run one or two Aeratis boards from the corner of the house off the edge of the porch, then butt all
other boards to the angled board. It is best practice to face screw theses boards and fill the holes with DAP blend stick filler. When
securing the miter joints in a waterproof installation, the but ends should be glued to your angled board and 100% silicone caulk
should be used in between the tongue and grooves.
As you are installing, please keep in mind we are providing the best case scenario’s to allow for the settling and movement of
your framing material and structure.
ACCLIMATION
Store Aeratis porch flooring in the environment in which the product is going to be installed for a minimum of 24 hours prior to
installation. (NEVER leave the protective film exposed to light and UV longer than 24 hours. The film can potentially cause some
discoloration. For prolonged exposer to UV and moisture if stored outside improperly. If you are going to have the boards stored
outside, turn the top row of boards over to have the protective film face downward.) It is also best practice to use KDAT (Kiln dried
after treating) joist or provide ample amount of drying time for the joist prior to installation. It is common for treated wood to be
deliver moist or even wet. As these joist dry, they may shrink. Shrinking can manifest itself in the visual appearance of the porch
floor in the form of gapping. To reduce the risk of Aeratis shrinking or unsightly joints appearing at butt joints, it is best practice
to lay all the Aeratis boards out on your structure or flat surface and allow them to reach an ambient temperature in addition to
using dried wood joist.
MITER JOINTS & BUTT JOINTS
Secure miter joints and butt joints with screws and use only an Aeratis approve HOT PVC glue. This will help eliminate gapping
in the event of settling or change over time in framing structure. Face screws can be avoided if glue is used and two trim head
screws are used at the joint at a 45 degree angle pulling the two boards together.
TRIM
Attach the desired trim piece using Aeratis approved HOT PVC GLUE and a trim head screw every two feet. It is always
best practice to allow your trim pieces and your fascia to be in direct sunlight uncovered and un-stacked for 24 hours prior
to cutting and installing.
FASCIA
Install Aeratis fascia by using trim head screws, fastening through the board into the substrate. PVC glue can be used on
the ends of the boards to secure the joints. Screws should be used every 12 inches in both the top and bottom of the fascia
in an alternating pattern. Make sure the screws are placed at least 1/2” away from the outside edge.
WRAPPING UP
If you have any residue or spills on your porch, we recommend the cleaner Goo Gone ® to help remove these items.
Sometimes during the course of installation, scuff marks or marks from shoes can be left on the surface of the product.
We recommend using 0000 steel wool and Murphy’s oil soap, rubbing the affected area lightly with long strokes following
the grain.
PROTECTIVE FILM
Wall of house
Remove the protective film upon installation. Direct exposure to UV rays can have an adverse affect on the PROTECTIVE
FILM. If the film is left on the porch floor it can effect the appearance of your porch floor or require additional steps to
remove the film and any residue left on the porch surface from the protective film. As you are installing the Aeratis boards,
SIDE VIEW
you should peel back and or remove the protective film. Do not wait until the end of
the project unless it is in a covered application and you have to paint. Leaving the
1/4" per foot
slope
protective film on longer than 24 hours can result in unsightly residue left behind from
UV damage to the protective film. Your Aeratis porch has sufficient UV inhibitors for
direct sunlight exposure. The protective film does not and should not be left on in direct
2x4 crisscross
sleeper system
sunlight applications nor should it be left on the board in or after rain.
SECOND STORY/WATERPROOF INSTALLATION
Plywood or rubber
membrane
Beaded ceiling
3" soffit
vent
Before you begin your installation please check will all local building codes an insure
that all requirements are met. These instructions are going to begin at the point of installing the joist for your second story
or water proof porch installation.
INSTALLING YOUR JOIST
The perfect 2nd story or waterproof installation consists of joist installed at 16”OC, 1/2” or 3/4” pressure treated or marine
grade plywood, a waterproofing membrane (Grace Ice and Water Shield HT or equivalent... for a equivalent, you must be
able to penetrate the membrane while it still maintains it’s warranty), 5/4” PT pine decking or Douglas fir strips for a sleeper
system and your Aeratis boards. Variations of this installation will be discussed later to help accommodate for spacing
issues. If you have the ability to plan ahead and can make space for the perfect installation, make sure you leave enough
space from top of the joist to the bottom of any outward opening doors for all the materials listed above (no less than
4-5/8”).
Before you begin, make sure you measure from the threshold down to the top of our your joist. The ideal amount of space
is 4-5/8” inches (from the threshold to the top of the joist, this allows room for using 3/4” plywood, waterproof membrane,
criss-cross 2” x 4” pressure treated sleeper system and your Aeratis boards ). If you do not have this much space available
we will cover how to install with a smaller amount of space below.
Once you have the proper measurement and have allotted for the space needed for the perfect install, begin your
installation by installing your joist 16” OC. Your joist can be installed either parallel or perpendicular to the structure. You can
make this decision based on your individual needs. Make sure you allow for proper slope away from the structure. We
recommend 1/4” per foot on structures less than 13 feet deep and 1/8” per foot on structures deeper than 13 feet. Once all
the joist are installed at 16”OC you can begin installing the plywood over the joist. It is best practice to use a pressure treated
T&G plywood when possible. If T&G is not available then a standard square edge plywood will work. Begin by fastening your
plywood down to the joist by using a construction adhesive on the joist and fastening the plywood down with screws or
staples (check with the wood treater for the best type of screws to use to fasten down the plywood to the PT joist).
MEMBRANE
Once the plywood is installed, the next step is the membrane. Begin installing the peal and stick membrane from the
outside edge of the porch. Follow the installation instructions of the membrane. Once you get to the edge of the house,
make sure you turn and run the membrane up the house as far as possible (this will depend on how deep your porch is... if
the porch is only 5 feet deep, make sure you go at least 2 feet up the vertical surface of the wall to stop water penetration).
If your wall is brick, make sure you use the proper flashing and seal up the transition between wall and floor to stop water
penetration.
SLEEPERS
Select a sleeper thickness based on your project. Keep in mind, if you use a sleeper less than 7/16” your fasteners could
pass through the sleeper and penetrate your membrane. Sleepers are typically either 3/4”, 5/4” or 1-1/2”. Next step will involve
your sleepers. Your first or bottom row of sleepers should run perpendicular with the walls of the house. They should be
spaced at 16” OC. Each sleeper should be anchored to a joist every 16 inches. The second row of sleepers should be run
parallel to the wall crossing the bottom row of sleepers creating a criss-cross or X. This will allow any water that penetrates
the T&G flooring to easily run out from under the sleeper system. Keep in mind, you may want to cut grooves on the
bottom of your sleepers to keep from damming water.
NO ROOM FOR SLEEPERS?
If you do not have room for 2 sets of sleepers or a criss-cross sleeper system, you can simple use one sleeper. You will
want to run your single sleeper system parallel to the house. On the bottom of the sleeper, you will want to cut notches or
channels in the bottom of the sleepers every 12 to 16 inches. This will allow the water to run under the sleeper and escape
out of the soffit vent area. If you do not have room for one row of sleepers, you can fasten Aeratis directly over the Grace
Ice and Watershield HT product. If you are fastening directly to the membrane, you MUST make sure that each fastener
penetrates Aeratis, the membrane, the plywood and the joist (3-1/4” screws should be used). Fastening Aeratis to the
plywood alone may not be sufficient for your long-term waterproof application. Also, in this case, it is highly recommended
that you use a 1/8” bead of 100% paintable silicone in the groove at the time of install (wipe up any silicone that squeezes
out. It will not bond to Aeratis but can be a visual distraction to the project).
PARALLEL VS PERPENDICULAR
It is always best practice to make sure your Aeratis boards are run perpendicular to the structure (make sure the boards
are running the same direction as the desired direction of run-off water.) Running the boards PARALLEL WILL NOT VOID THE
WARRANTY. However, if you are running the boards parallel, you will want to make sure you pay close attention to acclimation.
If you are installation Aeratis parallel to the structure, you are required to glue all butt joints with the Aeratis approved glue.
Make sure you order the PVC glue at the same time you order your Aeratis boards. YOU WILL HAVE TO SQUARE THE ENDS OF
EACH BOARD BEFORE INSTALLING IN AN APPLICATION USING BUTT JOINTS. Failure to address butt joints properly can result in
gapping. if you have questions about the right way to secure a butt joint see the installation video at Aeratis.com. Do not install
Aeratis boards parallel in a waterproof installation. The boards need to run the direction you want the water to flow.
FASTENING FOR WATERPROOF INSTALLATION
It is best practice to use both fasteners and joist/sleeper adhesive for a waterproof install. Insure that you do not leave any
gaps between boards. Use a urethane based adhesive for connection between Aeratis and the joist/sleeper system. It is not
required but it is best practice to use a stainless steel fastener. This is more important in a waterproof installation.
SHEDDING WATER
Make sure you account for water getting under your Aeratis boards and on top of your membrane. Your membrane, if installed
properly will keep the water out of your living space. Insure you provide a way for the water to exit the area and that you are
not damming up any water.
VENTILATION
It is best practice to ventilate your wooden structure. Keep in mind, wood is an organic material and is subject to deterioration
under overly wet or dry conditions. If your joist are kept too wet or moist, the holding power of the fasteners could be
compromised. If the wood is kept too dry, dry-rot can occur and your fasteners can fail.
INSTALLATION QUESTION
If you have any question whether or not your specific application will be warranted, you can fill out our pre-installation warranty
on the Aeratis.com website. If your installation is not approved, a member of our staff will contact you with suggestions of how
to modify your install so it is completely warranted.
STANDARD PORCH INSTALLATION - PERPENDICULAR
More than 18" ventilation
FRONT VIEW
Less than 18" ventilation
FRONT VIEW
More than
18" Ventilation
3" soffit
vent
3" soffit
vent
Less than
18" Ventilation
SECOND FLOOR PORCH INSTALLATION - PERPENDICULAR
FRONT VIEW
SIDE VIEW
1/4" per foot
slope
2x4 crisscross
sleeper system
Plywood
or rubber
membrane
Wall of house
3" soffit
vent
2x4 crisscross
sleeper system
3" soffit
vent
Plywood or rubber
membrane
Beaded ceiling
Beaded ceiling
3" soffit
vent
BRICK/STONE FOUNDATION INSTALLATION
SIDE VIEW
FRONT VIEW
2x4 crisscross
sleeper system
3" soffit
vent
3" soffit
vent
3" soffit
vent
CONCRETE PAD INSTALLATION - PERPENDICULAR
SIDE VIEW
FRONT VIEW
Wall of house
Note: Locate
vents toward
bottom of wall
1/4" per foot
slope
Wall of house
2x4 crisscross
sleeper system
2x4 crisscross sleeper system
Concrete pad
3" soffit
vent
Plywood or rubber membrane
3" soffit
vent
1/4" gap
& quarter
round
3" soffit
vent
2x4 crisscross
sleeper system
1/4" per
foot
slope
Concrete pad
Plywood or rubber
membrane
3" soffit
vent