Orders: 1.800.726.9620 • Fax: 1.515.369.4321 • Web: dealers

Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
1
Orders: 1.800.726.9620 • Fax: 1.515.369.4321 • Web: dealers.mcadvantages.com
Contents
FAQ .................................................................................................................................Page 3
Braking Tips.....................................................................................................Page 4
Fitments For Wheel Manufacturers ...............................Page 7
Build Sheet .........................................................................................................Page 8
MC Advantages Terms & Conditions ..............................Page 8
Product List ...................................................................................................Page 10
Dealer/Installer Agreement ...................................................Page 12
Retail Customer Self-Installation Waiver .............Page 13
Installation, Front Single .............................................................Page 14
Installation, Front Dual ..................................................................Page 15
Installation, Rear ....................................................................................Page 18
Installation, Brake Lines ..............................................................Page 18
Installation Testing ........................................................................... Page 20
Warnings ........................................................................................................... Page 20
Diagrams .......................................................................................................... Page 20
Measuring The Front Arm ........................................................ Page 23
Bleeding The Brake .............................................................................Page 27
Customer Satisfaction Pledge........................................... Page 29
2
FAQ
3
WHERE CAN I FIND TEST DATA ON STOPPING DISTANCE?
At the speeds that stopping distance is generally measured from (60 to 70 MPH), the test is primarily testing the
tire’s grip on the pavement. As delivered from the manufacturer, nearly all vehicles are able to engage the ABS or
lock the wheels at these speeds. Therefore, an increase in braking power will do nothing to stop the vehicle in a
shorter distance. For this reason, we do not record stopping distances at this time.
• The 360 Brake system performs well within the design parameters it is engineered for. It is considerably more
efficient to stop the rotor rotation with a full surface friction pad than it is to pinch the rotor on only a fraction of
pad surface as is common with typical brakes.
• The outer surface of the Rotor Hat is machined with slots that assist in providing air flow in and around the
braking system. This is combined with a grooved and vented rotor to provide superior air flow and cooling to the
brake.
• The materials selected to produce the brake are all chosen to help dissipate heat.
DUAL BRAKES
360 Brakes can be used on the front and/or rear of the motorcycle. If the motorcycle came with a single front brake,
it can be replaced with a single 360 Brake. If the motorcycle came with dual front brakes, we recommend they be
replaced with two 360 Brakes.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
•
•
•
•
Replacement parts are available at MCAdvantages.com and at your local 360 Brake Dealer.
As of 4/1/2008 replacement rotors cost $85 MSRP, and a set of two replacement friction pads cost $95 MSRP.
A Friction Service Kits includes two friction pads and one rotor and can be purchased for $120.
Prices subject to change without notice.
WIRE WHEELS
Our engineering group is currently designing a wire wheel application for the 360 Brake; keep an eye on
MCAdvantges.com for news about it.
NARROW FORKS
At this time the 360 Brake does not adapt to Narrow Fork widths less than six inches.
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
HEAT
4
Braking Tips
1. WHICH BRAKE IS THE MOST EFFECTIVE?
The front brake is the most effective, giving between 60%-80% of the bike’s stopping power in hard stops,
depending upon surface conditions. This is because most of the weight of the bike and rider transfers forward onto
the front wheel when the brakes are applied. A common example of weight transfer is when you trip on a gutter
- your feet stop but momentum keeps the top of you going and you fall flat on your face. The weight transfer that
takes place under braking on a motorcycle pushes the front wheel onto the ground and makes it grip very well.
2. IS THE FRONT WHEEL LIKELY TO SKID IF YOU APPLY THE
360 BRAKE HARD?
No. The front wheel is likely to skid uncontrollably and bring you down only if you jam the front brake on hard. If
you apply the front brake in a staged (progressive) process, the front wheel may skid but that skid is normally quite
controllable thanks to the engineering technology of 360 Brake.
3. IS THE REAR WHEEL LIKELY TO SKID IF YOU APPLY THE
BRAKES HARD?
With most of the weight being on the front wheel, the rear wheel tends to be light under braking and will therefore
lock up and skid very easily.
4. HOW DO YOU CONTROL A REAR WHEEL SKID?
Control of a rear wheel skid is easy. Just keep your eyes up to the horizon and steer where you WANT to go (not
necessarily where you are actually going). The bike will skid in a controllable manner with a minimum of fishtailing.
Practice these basic and advanced braking techniques under controlled conditions.
5. IS BRAKING A NATURAL SKILL?
Braking, as with any riding skill, is a learned skill, not a natural one. This means you must practice the correct
braking skills enough to make them an instinctive reaction before you can be sure that you will do the right things in
an emergency. Research has shown that, because of panic overpowering the rider’s conscious reactions, nearly a
third of all riders do absolutely nothing in an accident situation: they don’t even apply the brakes!
Good braking skill requires a rider to do a lot of high level braking skill practice. These skills will not come with
normal everyday riding.
6. IS THERE A SPECIAL BRAKING TECHNIQUE THAT
ENSURES THAT A RIDER WILL GET THE BEST OUT OF 360
BRAKES?
Yes. The process is called STAGED BRAKING. It involves the rider applying the motorcycle’s brakes in a staged
process. This gives the rider predictable, progressive braking.
7. IN AN EMERGENCY, SHOULD I CONCENTRATE ON USING
STAGED BRAKING ON BOTH FRONT AND BACK BRAKES?
This is a controversial subject. Some experienced riders believe that even in an emergency, they can apply the
back brake perfectly with no loss of braking on the front. Research has shown that the average rider can only
properly concentrate on the use of one brake in an emergency. We would suggest that you concentrate on getting
the best out of one brake. Of the front and rear brake on a motorcycle, the one to concentrate on in an emergency
Braking Tips
5
is the front brake.
According to the American Motorcycle Safety Foundation, if a rider tries to get the best out of both brakes in an
emergency, they will get the best out of neither. The MSF says riders can’t concentrate FULLY on both brakes at
one time.
8. SO HOW SHOULD I APPLY THE REAR BRAKE?
9. IS STAGED BRAKING DIFFICULT TO LEARN?
Given practice, the skill is not difficult to learn. The best way to learn it is to start off with a four stage application of
the front brake. Later you can increase the number of stages to make your braking more and more progressive, if
you want to.
10.CAN YOU EXPLAIN FOUR STAGES BRAKING IN PRACTICAL
TERMS?
To understand four stage braking, think of a rider coming up to a set of lights. Stage one is the force with which he
applies the front brake when he sees the lights turn yellow some distance ahead — in other words — lightly.
Stage One: The rider is applying the front brake to the point where the brake is just on and slowing the bike down
very, very gently to roll to a stop.
Stage Two: The force the rider would use if needed to make a normal, smooth stop at a stop light. Stage Two is a
firm pull used to bring the bike to a firm, but quiet stop. The rider applies the front brake to Stage One (friction point)
before going on to apply to a steady force at Stage Two.
Stage Three: The rider has to stop quite hard. The rider applies the front brake to friction point (Stage One), then
onto a firm pull (Stage Two) before applying pressure with a strong pull at Stage Three.
Stage Four: The rider is forced into a situation where a very fast stop is needed. In this serious situation, the rider
needs all the braking power available. The rider applies the front brake to friction point, moves on to the firm pull of
Stage Two, then to the strong pull of Stage Three, before going for a very hard stop at Stage Four.
11. IF YOU "GIVE IT ALL YOU'VE GOT " ON THE FRONT BRAKE
AT STAGE FOUR, WON'T YOU GET FRONT WHEEL LOCKUP?
Possibly — but by using the staged braking process, by the time the tire gets to the point of locking up at Stage
Four, the weight has transferred forward onto the front wheel and any tendency of the front tire to lose grip is both
easily sensed and controlled, unlike a front wheel skid caused by a tire locking up when the brake is jammed on
hard while the bike is under weight transfer.
With correct use of the Four Stage process, controlling a front wheel skid is simply a matter of keeping the wheel
steering straight ahead as pressure is relaxed on the front brake, allowing the wheel to regain grip.
12. WHAT WILL HAPPEN IF THE FRONT WHEEL LOCKS AND
PRESSURE IN NOT RELAXED?
There is a high degree of probability that rider can fall off as the wheel will eventually tuck under the bike.
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
Apply it and forget about it. Let the back wheel skid if necessary. Concentrate on using staged braking to harness
the superior power of the front brake to save your life.
The American Motorcycle Safety Foundation teaches their instructors that “in an emergency braking situation you
should apply the back brake hard and let the back wheel slide if it wants to. This way you can concentrate on what
is happening up front; there’s enough to think about in the use of the front brake.”
Braking Tips
13. HOW GOOD CAN YOU GET AT EMERGENCY BRAKING?
In emergency stops, expert riders are capable of controlling a front wheel skid by releasing pressure on the
front brake just enough to get that wheel turning again without actually letting the brake right off. This requires
considerable sensitivity on the brakes and the only way you will gain this sort of sensitivity is to practice.
14. IS A BALD TIRE A LIABILITY WHEN BRAKING?
Yes. Tire tread acts like a broom, sweeping debris, dirt, gravel and water etc off the road surface in order that the
tire can grip the road. The tread on a sensibly ridden motorcycle can comfortably handle most foreign matter on a
road surface - with the possible exception of oil (especially diesel oil), thick mud, and smooth wet paint. However,
with the right combination of factors — bald tire, foreign matter on the road surface and braking stresses a crash
can easily happen.
15. HOW SHOULD I BRAKE ON SLIPPERY AND LOOSE
SURFACES?
The secret to good braking on poor surfaces is observation. If you know what’s under your wheels you can tailor
your braking to the surface.
Keep an eye on the road surface. If crossing a slippery surface under strong braking the front wheel may lock. This
is why riders who brake late and hard for yellow or red lights often spill off — into the middle of the intersection.
The basic requirements for braking on a loose surface such as gravel are the same as those applying to braking on
a sealed surface. The difference is that you must observe the requirements more strictly on gravel.
You must brake in plenty of time, preferably brake while upright and in a straight line (any braking while leaned over
in gravel is extremely hazardous), use both brakes very progressively, carefully interpret the noise from the front
and rear tire while braking to detect and counteract any wheel lock-up, know your road surface, and take particular
care when braking on gradients, inclines, and heavy cambers.
6
Fitments For Wheel
Manufacturers
7
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

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Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.






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

8
Build Sheet
FOR OEM BIKES:
YEAR:
MAKE:
MODEL:
360 BRAKES NEEDED: (Circle One or Both & Axle Size)
FRONT
AXLE SIZE: ¾"
REAR
AXLE SIZE:: ¾"
1"
1"
ADDITIONAL DETAILS (Complete all that apply):
ARE FORKS STOCK?:
YES
NO
IF NO, LIST BRAND & PART #:
ARE WHEELS STOCK?:
YES
NO
IF NO, LIST BRAND & SIZE:
IS SWINGARM STOCK?:
YES
NO
IF NO, LIST BRAND & TIRE WIDTH:
FOR CUSTOM BIKES:
YEAR:
MAKE:
MODEL:
360 BRAKES NEEDED: (Circle One or Both & Axle Size)
FRONT
AXLE SIZE: ¾"
REAR
AXLE SIZE:: ¾"
1"
1"
ADDITIONAL DETAILS (Complete all that apply):
FRONT END MANUFACTURER:
PART #:
FRONT WHEEL MANUFACTURER:
BRAKE SIDE:
REAR WHEEL MANUFACTURER:
TIRE WIDTH:
REAR WHEEL BRAKE SIDE:
L
L
R DUAL
R DUAL
FRAME / SWINGARM MANUFACTURER?:
FINISH (Circle One)
POLISHED
CHROME
BLACK ANODIZED
PAYMENT AT TIME OF ORDER—Typical payment for all orders is advanced
payment at time of order by credit card, wire transfer or by C.O.D./money order.
Payment by company check is available upon approval of credit and successful
completion of required guidelines. All orders for special order/non-stocking
products and orders exceeding $2500.00 must be paid for in advance of shipment
as indicated above. Certain exceptions to this policy may be permitted and will be
approved only by MC Advantages management.
FREIGHT—All orders are shipped either prepaid by credit card (VISA, Mastercard,
Discover or American Express) or in certain circumstances, COD, cashiers check,
company check or money order. We ship via ground unless otherwise specified.
Next day and 2nd day delivery are available for most products at a higher cost and
these expedited charges are not included in MC Advantages offer of free freight
over a stated order amount—the difference in normal ground shipment and the
chosen expedited freight will be added to the invoice for the order in accordance
with our “Blue To You" Program. International orders require bank wire transfer
in US dollars only and all freight and freight related charges will be added to the
invoice for that order as the “Free Freight" offer does not apply to International
orders. MC Advantages is not responsible for late deliveries by any particular
carrier. Note: The following items may require a shipping surcharge: frame
Continued...
Terms & Conditions
9
Build Sheet
FREIGHT CLAIMS—All orders are carefully inspected and packaged before
shipment. Damage occurring in transit must be reported to the carrier, immediately
upon receipt and notated on the delivery ticket. It is the responsibility of the
recipient to promptly inspect and report damage or shipment shortages to the
shipping company and to MC Advantages. Responsibility for damages or shortages
after leaving our warehouse lies with the carrier and not MC Advantages. If
freight damage does occur it must be noted on the bill of lading at time of receipt
and claim for damages filed with the carrier. We generally use UPS, but may on
occasion use other shippers. The carriers’ ability to deliver in a certain period of
time is beyond our control. MC Advantages is not responsible for delays caused by
shippers.
PRICES—Prices and descriptions contained in our catalog and on our website
are subject to change without notice. Call to confirm exact current pricing prior to
ordering.
BACK ORDERS—Back orders will be kept open and shipped as soon as possible.
GENERAL PRODUCT WARRANTY—Many of MC Advantages’ products carry
one year or more in manufacturer’s warranty. These warranties generally warrant
that product is free from defects in material and workmanship for the stated period
of time from date of purchase. This warranty applies to the original customer/
installation with proof of purchase and cover defects in materials and workmanship
provided that the product was correctly ordered and properly installed/fitted for its
intended use. If upon inspection, returned parts are determined to be defective,
they may be replaced or repaired at the option of MC Advantages and/or the
original manufacturer. MC Advantages reserves the right to determine if a product
warrants a repair or partial replacement of any parts.
WARRANTY AND LIABILITY LIMITATIONS—Except as may be expressly set
forth in a product invoice, MC Advantages makes no representations or warranties
as to any of its products, expressed or implied, including w/o limitation any
warranties or merchantability or fitness for a particular purpose. Motorcycles can
be dangerous. MC Advantages has no control over the usage of any part and MC
Advantages expects all users of its products to exercise good judgment as to the
proper selection, installation, use and maintenance of any parts. All merchandise is
guaranteed against defects in material and workmanship only. Replacement will
be limited to parts only and does not include incurred labor costs.
to the misuse or improper application of any parts in any way by any person.
MC Advantages shall not be liable for any indirect or consequential damages
whatsoever. All matters shall be interpreted under Iowa law. All MC Advantages
products are for custom made motorcycles. The fitment of our products to OEM or
custom motorcycles and/or OEM or custom motorcycle parts is the responsibility
of the end user. MC Advantages makes no warranty or specific claim of fitment.
The user is responsible for verifying suitability of MC Advantages products to their
application prior to ordering. It is highly recommended that the end user carefully
test fit all parts prior to any modifications or painting. MC Advantages cannot be
held responsible for any paint or labor costs, under any circumstances, and will not
accept for return any part that has been modified or damaged during installation.
RETURNS, EXCHANGES, AND CANCELLATIONS—All items should be
inspected upon receipt, preferably while the shipping representative is still present.
Many MC Advantages products such as Frames, Motors, Front Ends and other
products are specially ordered or custom made to end user specifications. As such,
they cannot be changed, cancelled, or returned for any reason other than warranty
repair once the order has been placed. Non-custom products may be returned
within 30 days, and may be subject to a 20% re-stocking fee. Should returns be
required, original purchaser must first contact MC Advantages, to establish if
product will be returned to MC Advantages or to the manufacture, and to obtain
a Returned Goods Authorization (RGA) number and RGA form. All Returns must
be accompanied by an RGA form. This form shall be filled out in its entirety and
the RGA number written on the outside of the box for easy identification. The RGA
form must contain a detailed reason for the return. Do not sign an RGA form or
return product until speaking to an MC Advantages representative and discussing
possible costs and completion times. All return freight charges will be paid by the
customer. All products must be returned via a traceable delivery method. Returned
goods must be shipped prepaid, insured, and in the original packaging. No CODs
will be accepted. MC Advantages will not be responsible for items sent to us w/o an
RGA number on the box and completed RGA form.
NON-WARRANTY REPAIRS—Non-warranty repairs may be arranged with the
original manufacturer of a product. However, all service work returns must be
pre-paid by cashiers check if work is to be completed by MC Advantages. Please
always call MC Advantages first, then follow return instructions above for returning
products.
For any questions about an order or a specific MC Advantages product, call
1-800-726-9620 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM weekdays, CST.
MC Advantages assumes no responsibility for damage or injury of any kind due
Signed:
Print Name:
Company:
Customer#:
Email:
Date:
City:
State:
Internal:
Use Only
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
assemblies, rolling chassis, engines, bike kits, exhausts, fenders, front ends,
batteries, handlebars and other items based on size or weight. Ask a sales
rep for details.
Product List
BRAKE ASSEMBLIES
TH3070000
360 Brake Assembly Includes Caliper, Rotor Hat & 1 Arm
TH3070010
360 Brake Assembly Includes Caliper, Rotor Hat & 1 Arm
TH3070020
360 Brake Assembly Includes Caliper, Rotor Hat & 1 Arm
10
Polished
Chrome
Black Anodized
PLAIN ROTOR HAT PILLS
TH3050000
Plain Rotor Hat Pills, 10mm x 80mm 5-Pack
TH3050050
Plain Rotor Hat Pills, 3.10"/3.64 x 7/16", 5-Pack
TH3050070
Plain Rotor Hat Pills, 3.20"/3.52 x 7/16", 5-Pack
TH3050030
Plain Rotor Hat Pills, 3.20" x 3/8", 5-Pack
TH3050040
Plain Rotor Hat Pills, 3.25"/3.46 x 3/8", 5-Pack
TH3050080
Plain Rotor Hat Pills, 3.25"/3.46 x 7/16", 5-Pack
TH3050100
Plain Rotor Hat Pills, 3.36" x 7/16", 5-Pack
THREADED ROTOR HAT PILLS
TH3050041
Threaded Rotor Hat Pills, 3.10"/3.64" x 7/16-14, 5-Pack
TH3050061
Threaded Rotor Hat Pills, 3.20"/3.52 x 7/16-14, 5-Pack
TH3050031
Threaded Rotor Hat Pills, 3.25"/3.46 x 3/8-16, 5-Pack
TH3050071
Threaded Rotor Hat Pills, 3.25"/3.46 x 7/16-14, 5-Pack
ANTI-ROTATION ARMS
TH2040011
Anti-Rotation Arm For Deuce®, Left
TH2040101
Anti-Rotation Arm For Deuce®, Left
TH2040012
Anti-Rotation Arm For Deuce®, Right
TH2040034
Anti-Rotation Arm For Deuce®, Right
TH2040054
Anti-Rotation Arm For Road King®, Rear, Right, Angled
TH2040004
Anti-Rotation Arm For Road King®, Rear, Right, Angled
TH2040020
Anti-Rotation Arm For Springer®, 6.125
TH2040090
Anti-Rotation Arm For Springer®, 6.125"
TH2040000
Anti-Rotation Arm, Angled
TH418
Anti-Rotation Arm, Concave, Taper
TH2040001
Anti-Rotation Arm, Left
TH2040091
Anti-Rotation Arm, Left
TH2040002
Anti-Rotation Arm, Right
TH2040024
Anti-Rotation Arm, Right
TH2040010
Anti-Rotation Arm, Straight
TH2040030
Anti-Rotation Arm, Straight, 5.5"
TH2040100
Anti-Rotation Arm, Straight, 5.5"
TH2040040
Anti-Rotation Arm, Straight, 7.158"
TH2040110
Anti-Rotation Arm, Straight, 7.158"
TH2040010
Anti-Rotation Arm, Straight, Blank
Chrome
Black Powdercoat
Chrome
Black Powdercoat
Black Powdercoat
Chrome
Chrome
Black Powdercoat
Natural
Polished
Chrome
Black Powdercoat
Polished
Black Powdercoat
Polished
Black Powdercoat
Chrome
Black Powdercoat
Natural
Product List
REAR BRAKE PARTS
TH2060000
Slider Block
TH2060001
Slider Block Clevis For Dyna®
TH2060013
Swingarm Weld Bracket
REPLACEMENT PARTS
TH3000001
Friction Service Kit For 360 Brake w/ 1 Rotor & 2 Pads
TH3000002
Hardware Package For 360 Brake
TH3000005
O-Ring Kit For 360 Brake, 1 Large & 1 Small
TH3000003
Replacement Pads For 360 Brake, Set
TH3000004
Replacement Rotor For 360 Brake
Natural
Natural
Natural
Natural
Natural
Chrome
Natural
Natural
Natural
Natural
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
TOP HAT BUSHINGS
TH2060014
.75" Stainless Steel Top Hat Bushing
TH2060015
18mm Top Hat Bushing
TH2060016
19mm Top Hat Bushing
TH2060017
20mm Top Hat Bushing
TH2060018
22mm Top Hat Bushing
11
!
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12
Dealer
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13
CUSTOMER SELF-INSTALLATION WAIVER
Dear 360 Brake Customer:
Because this is a new and innovative motorcycle brake, it is not installed the same way
traditional brakes are installed on motorcycles. The 360 Brake must be installed and tested by a
professional mechanic trained, skilled and knowledgeable with the 360 Brake and its proper
installation. Only professional mechanics, which have been properly trained should install or
service your 360 Brake. We recommend that you do NOT install the 360 Brake yourself, unless
you are a professional mechanic and knowledgeable about the 360 Brake.
Like any motorcycle brake, the 360 Brake can be over-taxed, improperly used or damaged
through misuse. You must follow our guidelines on use limitations.
Every installation and any service to a 360 Brake must be done by closely following our written
instructions. We provide those instructions by mail, facsimile or through our website
www.360brake.com. We can also help you find a professional installer. Just contact us.
If you do not follow these instructions, you not only void our manufacturer’s warranty, but you
also waive any and all claims against the 360 Brake Company, LLC.
Acceptance & Waiver
By signing below, Customer acknowledges that Customer has received and read this
CUSTOMER SELF-INSTALLATION WAIVER and acknowledges and agrees that the
manufacturer’s warranty will be voided, if the 360 Brake is not installed as instructed here or is
improperly used. Customer agrees to follow all manufacturer’s instructions and warnings, and
further acknowledges having received and signed this Waiver before placing an order for a 360
Brake. Customer hereby agrees to all the terms, conditions and provisions in this waiver,
including the general waiver of any and all claims against the 360 Brake Company, LLC.
So acknowledged and agreed, this date: ____________________, 2008.
Customer’s signature:
________________________________
Customer’s Printed Name:
________________________________
Rev 1!15!08
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
Congratulations on your decision to purchase a 360 Brake. We hope you’ll be pleased with our
brake.
Installation
360 BRAKE APPLICATIONS
• The 360 Brake must be installed and tested by
a professional mechanic trained, skilled and
knowledgeable with the 360 Brake and its proper
installation due to the critical nature of the braking
system. Only properly trained professional mechanics
should install or service this brake. Failure to follow
these instructions will void the manufacturer’s
warranty and waive any and all claims against the
360 Brake Company, LLC.
• Currently 360 Brakes are available for HarleyDavidson® and V-twin custom motorcycles.
• Like any motorcycle brake, the 360 Brake can be
over-taxed, improperly used or damaged through
misuse.
• These instructions are for installation on H-D®-based
stock and custom motorcycles. For other applications
on other motorcycles, consult with a 360 Brake
technician, or follow the measurement and fitment
instructions for custom installations.
• The brakes can be used on front and/or rear of the
motorcycle, if the motorcycle came with a single front
brake it can be replaced with a single 360 Brake, if
the motorcycle came with dual front brakes, i.e. FLH/
FLT style models, we recommend they be replaced
with dual 360 Brakes.
• 360 Brakes can only be used on a Wide Glide®-style
fork set; they will not work on a Narrow Glide® front
end, i.e. Sportster® and some Dyna® models using
Sportster front fork sets. The typical minimum width of
forks must be 6.25" at the lower leg.
• 360 Brakes cannot be used with stock wheels unless
they have removable hubs.
• If distance between forks at arm (Fig 3, Dim L) minus
wheel width at hub (Fig 3, Dim M) is not at least
5.350, the 360 Brake will not fit your application.
Because the brake = 2.625, with a minimal caliper to
fork clearance of 0.050, totals to 2.675". That same
space is needed on each side of the wheel in order to
keep it centered between the forks. At total of 2.675" x
2 = 5.350 is required. Another way to state it is that if
the wheel width at the hub (Fig 3, Dim M), plus 5.350
is greater than your fork width at arm (Fig 3, Dim L),
14
the 360 Brake will not fit the application.
WARNING: DO NOT SWAP OUT THE 1" BEARING
WITH A 3/4" BEARING. THIS THROWS OFF
THE STACK EFFECT THAT IS CRUCIAL TO THE
FUNCTION OF THIS BRAKE. THE INNER RACE
OF THE BEARING WILL NOT CONNECT WITH
THE PRESSURE PLATE IF THEY ARE SWAPPED.
REPLACING THE 1" BEARING WITH A 3/4"
BEARING WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.
INFORMATION REQUIRED FOR
SELECTING THE CORRECT
360 BRAKE APPLICATION
• Front Brakes:
> Make, year, and model of motorcycle.
> Axle diameter (Fig 3, Dim J)
> Inside measurement of front forks at axle (Fig 3,
Dim K)
• Rear Brakes:
> Make, year, and model of motorcycle.
> Axle diameter
> Inside measurement of swing arm at axle
WHEELS
• Wheel width for mounting dual 360 Brakes without hat
spacers is 2.25" to 2.3125".
• Weld wheels width is 2.3125" and will work perfectly
with the dual 360 Brakes on an FLH front end. Most
other wheels are 0.75" wide. These wheels will
require a hat spacer on both sides for dual brakes
and on one side for single brakes. (See hat spacer
drawing sketch Fig 1. attached)
• When using one brake the use of a smooth hub is
needed on the opposite side of the wheel. Discard the
flanged hub. If a new wheel is being used for a dual
brake installation, you will not need to purchase the
hubs from the wheel vendor. Determine if the smooth
hub is threaded or through-bolted. Most are threaded
with a 7/16-14 thread. This is required to determine
the type of pills needed for the installation.
• Determine the inside hole diameter of the wheel
and fill in this dimension on the attached hat spacer
Installation
drawing for pilot. (Dimension “A”, Figures 1 and 3)
• Refer to the wheel fitment chart to select the correct
bolt pattern Pill based on your bolt pattern calculation.
15
MEASUREMENTS REQUIRED
FOR FITMENT
ADD'L PARTS REQUIRED FOR
INSTALLATION
• Front Brake
> Determine the hub bolt circle diameter. (See
attached Fig 2).
> Remove front wheel assembly, if wheel does not
have removable hubs it cannot be used with 360
Brakes.
> Measure the distance between forks inside at the
axle. (Fig 3, Dim K)
> Measure the thickness of the wheel at the hub
mounting location. (Fig 3, Dim M)
> Measure the size of the axle and type of bearing
in the hub being used. A hub cannot be used with
tapered roller bearings or .75" diameter sealed
bearings. If the hub has tapered roller bearings it
must be machined to accept 1" ID sealed bearing
H-D® #9247 or .75" sealed bearing will need to be
replaced with 1" ID sealed bearing H-D® #9247.
• Rear Brake
> Remove rear wheel assembly, if wheel does not
have removable hubs it cannot be used with 360
Brake.
> Measure the distance between swing arm legs
inside at the axle.
> 360 Brakes are set up for 1" axle. If the bike has
a smaller size axle, install the correct axle adapter
bushing before installation.
> Install wheel assembly making sure the belt or
chain is in alignment. Measure from the hub
mounting on the wheel to the inside of the swing
arm. Next, measure for the drive side spacer.
> Measure the thickness of wheel at the hub
mounting location.
> Measure the size of the axle and type of bearing
in the hub being used. Hub cannot be used with
tapered roller bearings or ¾" diameter sealed
bearings. If the hub has tapered roller bearings it
• If the axle is not 1" diameter, adapter bushings will be
required based on the diameter of the axle.
• Hub spacer(s) machined to correct thickness, bolt
pattern, and pilot diameter (IMPORTANT! these parts
must be machined).
• Caliper anti-rotation arms as specified by 360 Brake
per application.
• Spacers for holding the caliper anti-rotation arm in
place to the forks and shims as required. Thickness to
be determined by 360 Braketechnician.
• Pills as determined by wheel fitment chart.
• Bolts for mounting caliper arm in place.
• Tubing 1" ID x .125 wall min. for crush tube and
spacers. Either mild steel (i.e. 1018) or high grade
aluminum (i.e. 6061-T6).
FRONT BRAKE INSTALLATION
Front Single Brake Installation
1. Determine the correct side of the wheel to install
the brake on. Set wheel between fork in the correct
orientation and note the correct side for the brake
installation base on original caliper location on forks.
If the tire is already installed on the wheel, note that
the tire rotation arrow is correct.
2. Temporarily install the brake hat assembly, with
correct pills and hub spacer installed on the brake
side and smooth hub assembly on the other side of
the wheel with the socket head cap screws that came
with the original hub. Verify the length is correct; the
hub must be tight when the bolts bottom out. If the
screws bottom out before being tight, you will need
shorter screws (To determine how much shorter the
screws need to be, measure the gap that is left from
the wheel to the hub spacer after the bolts bottom
out). Screws must engage a minimum of 6 threads or
more when tightened.
3.
Measure for the crush sleeve with the depth side of
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
must be machined to accept 1" ID sealed bearing
H-D® #9247 or ¾" sealed bearing will need to be
replaced with 1" ID sealed bearing H-D® #9247.
Installation
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
the caliper from the outside of the inner race of the
bearing to the inside of the bearing race on the other
side of the wheel then subtract the thickness of the
bearing inner race width. (H-D® #9247 measures
.825) Then add .0015 to give you the length of the
crush tube required. This will be made from the 1" ID
x .125 wall tubing. Verify that the tubing will fit loosely
over 1" axle. If not machine the ID to 1.010 to fit over
the axle loosely.
Install the axle into the bearings from the hub side (If
axle is not 1" diameter you will need a 1" diameter
shaft to perform this action), then remove the hat
assembly and drop the crush tube over the axle.
Reinstall the hub assembly with the socket heads
screws. USE BLUE (242) LOCTITE® ON THESE
SCREWS WHEN ASSEMBLED. Tighten screws to 20
ft/lbs. Be sure that the axle is loose inside the bearing
and crush sleeve during tightening so that the axle
can be removed smoothly.
Remove axle from wheel assembly. Be sure the crush
tube is tight between the bearings. If it is not it will
have to be redone to be tight.
Install the caliper arm on the caliper assembly
with the 4 provide flat head screws. USE BLUE
(242) LOCTITE® ON THESE SCREWS WHEN
ASSEMBLED.
Install the caliper assembly into the hat assembly; you
will need to align the slots in the rotor with the pins in
the hat to install. Install the axle adapter bushings if
required. Hold this assembly together when placing
between fork legs.
Slide wheel assembly in between forks and install the
axle loosely.
Install the caliper arm block. Slide the wheel
assembly over on the axle until the caliper arm goes
up against the caliper arm block. Install the correct
size bolts and tighten. Verify that the wheel looks
centered. If it is not, install shim stock to move it to
the center. (Some aftermarket forks will need to be
installed differently.)
10. Making
spacers for wheel.
10a. Measure the distance between the caliper face or
axle adapter bushing as required and the inside of
16
the fork leg and write it down. (Fig 3, Dim F)
10b. Make spacer from the 1" ID x .125 wall tubing for
1" axle or 3/4" ID x .125 wall tubing for 3/4" axle.
Verify that the tubing will fit loosely over 1" axle. If
not machine the ID to 0.010 larger than the axle
diameter to fit over the axle loosely.
10c. If using stock H-D® forks, set the axle so that the
shoulder on the hub side is 0.06-0.10 inside the
face of the fork leg. Measure between the axle
shoulder and the inner bearing race or adapter
bushing and write it down.
10d. If using aftermarket forks install the axle loosely
and measure between the fork flat face and the
inner bearing race or adapter bushing and write it
down. (Fig 3, Dim H) Make spacer from the 1" ID
x .125 wall tubing for 1" axle or 3/4" ID x .125 wall
tubing for 3/4" axle. Verify that the tubing will fit
loosely over 1" axle. If not machine the ID to 0.010
larger than the axle diameter to fit over the axle
loosely.
11. Remove
bolts, caliper arm, spacer, and shims (if
used), and then remove the wheel and caliper
assembly. Be sure to hold the caliper in the hat
assembly while removing the wheel.
12. Reinstall wheel assembly with the spacers installed
and tighten axle to 20 ft/lbs. Install cap on hub side on
fork and tighten.
13. Install caliper arm spacer. If it is too tight you cut the
spacer on the caliper side too small and will need
to shim it or remake it so the caliper arm spacer will
fit tight. If the caliper arm spacer fits loosely use the
shims, between the caliper arm and spacer, to space
properly and install and tighten bolt to 20 ft/lbs. USE
RED (271) LOCTITE® ON THESE SCREWS WHEN
ASSEMBLED. Bolts should extend past the inside of
the caliper arm bracket by 1 thread minimum and no
more than 4 threads.
14. Verify
that wheel spins freely after installation.
Front Dual Brake Installation
1. Temporarily install the brake hat assemblies on both
sides, with correct pills (one side uses threaded pills
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
and the other one uses through hole and counter
bored pills). Threaded pills to be on right side hat
assembly using a hub spacer installed on the both
sides. Use socket head cap screws of the correct
length.
Verify the length is correct; when the hub is tight the
bolts must not extend more that 1 thread out of the
threaded pills or be recessed into the pill by 1 thread.
Measure for the crush sleeve with the depth side of
the caliper from the outside of the inner race of the
bearing to the inside of the bearing race on the other
side of the wheel then subtract the thickness of the
bearing inner race width. (H-D® #9247 measures
.825) Then add .0015 to give you the length of the
crush tube required. This will be made from the 1" ID
x .125 wall tubing. Verify that the tubing will fit loosely
over 1" axle. If not machine the ID to 1.010 to fit over
the axle loosely.
Install the axle into the bearings from the right side
(If axle is not 1" diameter you will need a 1" diameter
shaft to perform this action), then remove the hat
assembly and drop the crush tube over the axle
Reinstall the hub assembly with the socket heads
screws. USE BLUE (242) LOCTITE® ON THESE
SCREWS WHEN ASSEMBLED. Tighten screws to 20
ft/lbs. Be sure that the axle is loose inside the bearing
and crush sleeve during tightening so that the axle
can be removed smoothly.
Remove Axle from wheel assembly. Be sure the crush
tube is tight between the bearings. If it is not it will
have to be redone to be tight.
Install the correct caliper arms on the caliper
assemblies with the 4 provide flat head screws. USE
BLUE (242) LOCTITE® ON THESE SCREWS WHEN
ASSEMBLED.
Install the caliper assemblies into the hat assemblies;
you will need to align the slots in the rotor with the
pins in the hat to install. Install the axle adapter
bushings if required. Hold this assembly together
when placing between fork legs.
Slide wheel assembly in between forks and install the
axle loosely.
Install the caliper arm blocks; slide the wheel
assembly over on the axle to the left side. (Nut side
of axle) until the caliper arm goes up against the
caliper arm block. Install the correct size bolts and
tighten. Verify that the wheel looks centered. If it is
not, install shim stock to move it to the center. (Some
aftermarket forks will need to be installed differently.)
9. Making spacers for wheel.
9a. Measure the distance between the caliper face or
axle adapter bushing as required and the inside of
the fork leg and write it down. (Fig 3, Dim F) Make
spacer from the 1" ID x .125 wall tubing for 1" axle
or 3/4" ID x .125 wall tubing for 3/4" axle. Verify that
the tubing will fit loosely over axle. If not machine
the ID to 0.010 larger than the axle diameter to fit
over the axle loosely.
9b. If using stock H-D® forks, set the axle so that the
land on the hub side is 0.06-0.10 inside the face of
the fork leg. Measure between the axle land and
the inner bearing race and write it down.
9c. If using aftermarket forks install the axle loosely
and measure between the flat fork face and the
inner bearing race and write it down. (Fig 3, Dim
H) Make spacers from the 1" ID x .125 wall tubing
for 1" axle or 3/4" ID x .125 wall tubing for 3/4"
axle. Verify that the tubing will fit loosely over axle.
If not machine the ID to 0.010 larger than the axle
diameter to fit over the axle loosely.
10. Remove bolts, caliper arm, spacer, and shims (if
used), and then remove the wheel and caliper
assembly. Be sure to hold the caliper in the hat
assembly while removing the wheel.
11. Reinstall wheel assembly with the spacers installed
and tighten axle to 20 ft/lbs. Install cap on hub side on
fork and tighten.
12. Install left side caliper arm spacer. If it is too tight you
cut the spacer on the caliper side too small and will
need to shim it or remake it so the caliper arm spacer
will fit tight. If the caliper arm spacer fits loosely use
the shims between the caliper arm and spacer, to
space properly and install and tighten bolt to 20 ft/lbs.
USE RED (271) LOCTITE® ON THESE SCREWS
WHEN ASSEMBLED. Then install right side caliper
arm spacer, if it is too tight you cut the spacer on the
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
Installation
17
Installation
caliper side too thick and will need to remake it so
the caliper arm spacer will fit tight. If the caliper arm
spacer fits loosely use the shims, between the caliper
arm and spacer, to space properly and install and
tighten bolt to 20 ft/lbs. Bolts should extend past the
inside of the caliper arm bracket by 1 thread minimum
and no more than 4 threads.
13. Verify that wheel spins freely after installation.
REAR BRAKE INSTALLATION
1.
2.
3.
4.
Determine the correct side of the wheel to install
the brake on. Set wheel between fork in the correct
orientation and note the correct side for the brake
installation base on original caliper location on forks.
If the tire is already installed on the wheel, note the
tire rotation arrow is correct.
Temporarily install the brake hat assembly, with
correct pills and hub spacer installed on the brake
side and drive hub assembly on the other side of the
wheel with socket head cap screws that came with
the original hub. Verify the length is correct; the hub
must be tight when the bolts bottom out. If the screws
bottom out before being tight, you will need to acquire
shorter screws (To determine how much shorter the
screws need to be, measure the gap that is left from
the wheel to the hub spacer after the bolts bottom
out). Screws must engage a minimum of 6 threads or
more when tightened.
Measure for the crush sleeve with the depth side of
the caliper from the outside of the inner race of the
bearing to the inside of the bearing race on the other
side of the wheel then subtract the thickness of the
bearing inner race width. (H-D® #9247 measures
.825) Then add .005 to give you the length of the
crush tube required. This will be made from the 1" ID
x .125 wall tubing. Verify that the tubing will fit loosely
over 1" axle. If not machine the ID to 1.010 to fit over
the axle loosely.
Install the axle into the bearings from the hub side (If
axle is not 1" diameter you will need a 1" diameter
shaft to perform this action), then remove the hat
assembly and drop the crush tube over the axle.
Reinstall the hub assembly with the socket heads
screws. USE BLUE LOCKTITE ON THESE SCREWS
18
WHEN ASSEMBLED. Tighten screws to 20 ft/lbs.
be sure that the axle is loose inside the bearing and
crush sleeve during tightening so that the axle can be
removed smoothly.
Remove Axle from wheel assembly. Be sure the crush
tube is tight between the bearings. If it is not it will
have to be redone to be tight.
6. Install the caliper arm on the caliper assembly
with the 4 provide flat head screws. USE BLUE
(242) LOCTITE® ON THESE SCREWS WHEN
ASSEMBLED.
7. Install the caliper assembly into the hat assembly; you
will need to align the slots in the rotor with the pins in
the hat to install. Install the axle adapter bushings if
required. Hold this assembly together when placing
between swing arm legs.
8. Slide wheel assembly in between swing arm legs and
install the axle loosely.
9. Engage the caliper arm with the stop on the swing
arm as required for the installation.
10. Making spacers for wheel.
10a. Make the spacer for the drive side of the wheel
based on the measurement taken in step D. 2.d
above. Make spacer from .125 min. wall tubing for
1" axle or 3/4" ID x .125 wall tubing for 3/4" axle.
Verify that the tubing will fit loosely over axle. If
not machine the ID to 0.010 larger than the axle
diameter to fit over the axle loosely.
10b.Measure the distance between the caliper face or
axle adapter bushing as required and the inside of
the swing arm leg and write it down. Make spacer
from .125 min. wall tubing for 1" axle or 3/4" ID x
.125 wall tubing for 3/4" axle. Verify that the tubing
will fit loosely over axle. If not machine the ID to
0.010 larger than the axle diameter to fit over the
axle loosely.
11. Remove the wheel and caliper assembly. Be sure to
hold the caliper in the hat assembly while removing
the wheel.
12. Reinstall wheel assembly with the spacers installed
and tighten axle to 20 ft/lbs. Check that the caliper
arm is engaged correctly with the stop on the swing
5.
Installation
BRAKE LINE INSTALLATION
(USE ONLY DOT APPROVED BRAKE LINES AND
FITTINGS) Factory H-D® brake lines WILL NOT
WORK with 360 Brakes. Custom motorcycles may
have the correct type of lines. Installer will need to verify
fitment. Determine what brake fluid your motorcycle was
supplied with. H-D® motorcycles have used both DOT
4 (glycol) and DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluids as original
equipment in recent years. These are incompatible
compounds, and must not be mixed. The 360 Brake is
assembled using DOT 5 brake fluid.
Front Single Brake Line Installation
1. The 360 Brake comes with straight adapters for the
brake line connections, bleeder screws and plugs for
the 4 holes in the caliper assembly.
2. Remove the plugs from the 4 holes.
3. Install the straight connector and the bleeder in the
appropriate holes in the caliper assembly for the
installation. Install the plugs in the unused holes. Use
Teflon tape on the fitting, bleeder screw, and plugs to
prevent leaks.
4. Remove the factory brake line and measure it to find
out the approximate length of the new brake line. The
line may require additional length to provide correct
slack for fork movement.
5. Pump out all fluid from the master cylinder and
wipe clean. Put a small amount of DOT 5 fluid in
master cylinder and pump it through. Discard fluid
appropriately.
6. Provide appropriate adapter at master cylinder (i.e.
Bikers choice P/N 030655, 036254, 036056, or
036255 as required) to install new flexible brake line
compatible with the connector supplied by 360 Brakes
from the master cylinder to the 360 Brake. Route
the line in the factory location and provide slack at
the bottom equal to the factory slack. Attach the new
brake lines to the motorcycle as the original ones
were tied.
7.
After the assembly is complete, fill the master cylinder
with DOT 5 fluid and bleed the brakes per H-D®
instructions.
Front Dual Brake Line Installation
1. The 360 Brake comes with straight adapters for the
brake line connections, bleeder screws and plugs for
the 4 holes in the caliper assembly.
2. Remove the plugs from the 4 holes.
3. Install the straight connector and the bleeder in the
appropriate holes in the caliper assembly for the
installation. Install the plugs in the unused holes. Use
Teflon tape on the fitting, bleeder screw, and plugs to
prevent leaks.
4. Remove the factory brake lines.
5. Pump out all fluid from the master cylinder and
wipe clean. Put a small amount of DOT 5 fluid in
master cylinder and pump it through. Discard fluid
appropriately.
6. Provide tee fitting to split the brake lines to both front
brakes. (i.e. Bikers Choice P/N 035450) Install the
tee fitting and measure the line lengths providing
appropriate slack at brake end for fork movement.
7. Provide appropriate adapter at master cylinder (i.e.
Bikers Choice P/N 030655, 036254, 036056, or
036255 as required) to install new flexible brake line
compatible with the connector supplied by 360 Brakes
from the master cylinder to the tee fitting and from
the tee fitting to the 360 Brake. Route the line in the
factory location and provide slack at the bottom equal
to the factory slack. Attach the new brake lines to the
motorcycle as the original ones were tied.
8. After the assembly is complete, fill the master cylinder
with DOT 5 fluid and bleed the brakes per H-D®
instructions.
Rear Brake Line Installation
1. The 360 Brake comes with straight adapters for the
brake line connections, bleeder screws and plugs for
the 4 holes in the caliper assembly.
2. Remove the plugs from the 4 holes.
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arm.
13. Verify that wheel spins freely after installation.
19
Installation
3.
4.
5.
7.
8.
9.
Install the straight connector and the bleeder in the
appropriate holes in the caliper assembly for the
installation. Install the plugs in the unused holes. Use
Teflon tape on the fitting, bleeder screw, and plugs to
prevent leaks.
Remove the factory brake line and measure it to find
out the approximate length of the new brake line. The
line may require additional length to provide correct
slack for swing arm movement.
Pump out all fluid from the master cylinder and
wipe clean, put a small amount of DOT 5 fluid in
master cylinder and pump it through. Discard fluid
appropriately.
Provide appropriate adapter at master cylinder to
install new flexible brake line that is compatible with
the connector supplied by 360 Brake from the master
cylinder to the 360 Brake. Route the line in the factory
location and provide slack at the bottom equal to
the factory slack. Attach the new brake lines to the
motorcycle as the original ones were tied.
Rear line has a brake light switch that has to be
reused. You will need to provide a tee in the line that
will fit the new lines and the factory switch (i.e. Bikers
Choice P/N 036075 or 031196). Mount in the factory
location. Be sure to plug in the switch after the brake
line installation is complete. Verify that the brake light
is working when pressing the rear brake lever only
after bleeding is complete.
After the assembly is complete, fill the master cylinder
with DOT 5 fluid and bleed the brakes per H-D®
instructions.
CHECK OUT AND
BRAKE TEST
1.
2.
3.
After installation is complete and bled, check all bolts
for tightness, brake lines and fittings for leakage prior
to moving the motorcycle.
After check, roll bike manually and check brake
actuation both front and rear separately.
Find a location for brake testing that you can stop
safely in case of brake failure during this test. Start
motorcycle and run the bike up to 5 MPH and check
the brake operation both front and back separately.
4.
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If everything works properly go on the break in of the
360 Brakes. If not repair the problem and retest.
BREAK-IN &
BEDDING PROCEDURE:
(If the rear brake is not installed, skip the rear brake
testing)
Find road without traffic for the following break in.
1. Run the motorcycle up to 10 MPH and stop using only
front brake, repeat 5 times then run the motorcycle up
to 10 MPH and stop using only rear brake, repeat 5
times. Let brakes cool before next step.
2. Run the motorcycle up to 20 MPH and stop using only
front brake, repeat 5 times then run the motorcycle up
to 20 MPH and stop using only rear brake, repeat 5
times. Let brakes cool before next step.
3. Run the motorcycle up to 30 MPH and stop using only
front brake, repeat 5 times then run the motorcycle up
to 30 MPH and stop using only rear brake, repeat 5
times. Let brakes cool before next step.
Run the motorcycle up to 45 MPH and stop using only
front brake, repeat 5 times then run the motorcycle up
to 45 MPH and stop using only rear brake, repeat 5
times. Let brakes cool before next step.
After the above break in go onto a road that you can
run the motorcycle up to 60 to 70 MPH to do hard
stops.
1. Run the motorcycle up to 60 MPH and stop using
front and rear brake, repeat 5 times. Let brakes cool
before next step.
2. Run the motorcycle up to 70 MPH and stop using
front and rear brake, repeat 5 times. Let brakes cool
before next step.
3. Break in should be complete at this time, ride the bike
as normal and legal. Note any irregularities and report
them to 360 Brake.
4.
!! WARNINGS !!
360 Brakes are intended for use on motorcycles only and
must be installed precisely per these instructions. Failure to
do so can impact the brake’s performance and result in an
accident, damage, injury or even death. If in doubt on how to
install 360 Brakes, seek help from a professional mechanic
Installation
Do not install improperly, misuse or overtax the 360 Brake.
Constant application of any brake (sometimes called “riding
the brake"), particularly when going downhill, while towing
or under substantial weight or speed, builds up heat and
reduces the effectiveness of a brake. Constant application
of a brake also triggers the brake lights, confusing other
motorists. When safe to do so, use the engine at a lower
gear to slow the motorcycle to reduce brake wear and heat
build-up.
Select the correct braking system for your motorcycle. The
360 Brake was not designed to stop any bike at any speed
under any conditions. Total weight (riders, motorcycle and
any cargo or towed items), speed and riding style can and
do impact a brake’s performance. Learn, understand and
respect the limitations of any brake system.
Subject to our recommendations concerning the replacement
of dual brakes with dual 360 Brakes, the 5-inch 360 Brake
was tested and targeted for use on motorcycles with a GVW
of 1,000 lbs. with a safety margin up to 1,200 lbs. at speeds
not exceeding US speed limits. A 6" brake for heavier bikes is
still under development.
Like any mechanical device, the 360 Brake requires periodic
inspection and maintenance. Have your motorcycle and
brakes inspected annually by a professional mechanic, and
only use official 360 Brake replacement pads, rotors and
other parts, available from MC Advantages.
Do not apply any brake so hard that the wheel stops rotating
and slides. This may cause loss of control. Leave sufficient
distances between your motorcycle and other objects so you
can apply the brakes gradually if you need to stop.
To maximize braking effectiveness, use the front and rear
brakes together.
Improper braking may cause loss of control or may not slow
the motorcycle in time to avoid a collision or accident.
Consider weather and road conditions when riding a
motorcycle or applying its brakes. Braking hard on wet,
rough, loose or slippery surfaces can cause a motorcycle to
skid, and the rider could lose control of the motorcycle. Apply
brakes lightly on such surfaces.
Braking while in a curve can cause loss of control. Bring the
motorcycle to the upright position before applying the brakes,
and avoid applying the brakes in a corner if at all possible.
Good brakes cannot correct the improper operation of a
motorcycle. Take note of these warnings and obtain proper
training on the use and operation of your motorcycle.
NEVER consume alcohol before riding your motorcycle.
Obey all speed limits and traffic laws. ALWAYS wear a
helmet, protective eye wear and safety clothing.
WARNING: DO NOT SWAP OUT THE 1" BEARING WITH A
3/4" BEARING. THIS THROWS OFF THE STACK EFFECT
THAT IS CRUCIAL TO THE FUNCTION OF THIS BRAKE.
THE INNER RACE OF THE BEARING WILL NOT CONNECT
11
WITH THE PRESSURE PLATE IF THEY ARE SWAPPED.
REPLACING THE 1" BEARING WITH A 3/4" BEARING
WILL VOID THE WARRANTY.
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
familiar with the 360 Brake and its proper installation. The
360 Brake is not a racing product and should not be used in a
competition environment.
21
22
Measuring
The Front Arm
FIGURE 4A
To use the 360 Brake Front Arm Template:
Download and print the Front Arm Template with no
printer scaling (1:1 scaling) on card stock, or the stiffest
cardboard available. Cut out the template, and punch
out hole at axle center line to fit tightly over your axle
Pull out axle, slide template over axle and reinstall axle
so that template is behind fork arm. Tape the template in
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
The measurements needed for 360 Brake Arm front
fitments (See Figures 4a and 4b) can be made using
any number of precision instruments. Calipers of
any variety (digital, dial, or vernier) and of sufficient
length can be utilized alone or in conjunction with
transfer punches and straight edges to generate
accurate numbers. If this methodology is impractical, a
downloadable template is available as an alternative.
23
Measuring
The Front Arm
FIGURE 4B
place so that the peak at the top of the template aligns
exactly with the center line of the fork arm. (See Figure
5, “Template Mounted on Axle”)
Using a pencil or marker that fits snugly through the
caliper mounting holes, accurately mark the center
location of both holes. Remove the template from the
axle. Tape a piece of paper over the punched out axle
hole. Using a straight edge, redraw the horizontal and
vertical center lines that intersect at the axle centerline.
24
Accurately measure from the axle centerline point to
the center of the uppermost caliper mounting hole
mark and record this as dimension "A". (See Figure
5, “Measurements Made on Template”) Accurately
measure from the uppermost to the lower caliper
mounting hole mark center and record this as dimension
“B”. Using a straight edge, draw a line between the
hole mark centers that comprise dimension “B”.
Accurately measure perpendicularly from this line to
Measuring
The Front Arm
FIGURE 4C
and record on the Build Sheet/Order Form. If these
measurements do not line up with a stock anti-rotation
arm you will need to order a Builder Arm. The Builder
Arm has the correct profile and hole pattern to fit the 360
Brake caliper, and can be drilled, tapped and profiled to
fit in most any application. It is available in a straight or
angled profile.
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
the fork centerline printed on the template and record
this as dimension “C”. Check the mounting bolts from
the existing caliper for size and thread and record this
as dimension “D”. This check can be accomplished
using a matching nut or bolt of known dimension, or a
measuring caliper and thread pitch gauge.
Take the four measurements referenced above
25
26
FIGURE 5
27
BRAKE BLEEDING AND FLUID
INFORMATION
Recommended fluid is DOT 5 silicone based.
Bleeding the 360 Brake is done the same way as any
other braking system. Many different methods are used
successfully, so there is not one specific method to use.
The removal of air bubbles is critical to a quality bleed,
regardless of method. However, the 360 brake is often
more difficult to bleed on the rear application specifically.
This may be caused by a number of reasons:
1. The rear brake having a long distance of horizontal
brake line makes air bubble removal to the master more
difficult. As well, the caliper is often at the same height
as the master cylinder while on the bike.
2. The 360 brake can trap air behind the piston, and
the circular design can require more fluid to be pushed
through the bleeder to remove all air.
3. Please remember that the 360 Brake requires a
minimum of a 9/16th master cylinder for a single brake,
and an 11/16th master for duals. Using a smaller than
specified master will not provide enough flow, using a
larger is not a problem, and will result in a firmer, taller
pedal / lever.
4. The 360 Brake is designed for AN3 fittings and NOT
banjo bolts. Use of a banjo bolt on the brake will result
in leakage and air introduction into the system, and will
not work.
POSSIBLE SYMPTOMS
OF IMPROPER BLEEDING
INCLUDE:
1. Spongy pedal (handle)
2. Boiling of brake fluid
3. Not enough pedal (handle) travel for the given master
cylinder diameter.
TIPS FOR BLEEDING THE 360
BRAKE: REGARDLESS OF
METHOD YOU ARE USING
1. Make sure that inlet port and bleeder port being used
are in a vertical position(or close to) If your custom
install looks better with the line coming in from the
bottom, then remove the brake, and bleed it off the
wheel in a vertical position. Once the air is removed, the
install can go inverted as long as no air is reintroduced.
2. Remove unused inlet port plug, and slowly depress
handle to push air out of plug hole. Then re-install plug
while handle is still depressed to remove air from port.
3. Make sure unused ports, as well as all fittings are
tight, and leak free.
4. Make sure Caliper is below the height of the master
Cylinder. The front is easy and always the case. The
rear is more difficult, but might need to be removed
from the wheel, and be bled hanging below the master
cylinder height.
5. Tap the line and let air bubbles rise to the top of the
master Cylinder reservoir. Let sit, then repeat.
6. Make sure you do not suck the reservoir dry, this will
introduce more air.
7. If problem persists, lightly tap the face of the caliper
while bleeding with a soft non marking object. This will
help the air find its way out of the circular piston cavity,
upwards in both directions.
8. Repeat if needed. Even if you do not see bubbles, air
may be present in the system, so repeat.
DOT 5 IS RECOMMENDED
FOR THE FOLLOWING
REASON:
1. Very high temperature boiling point 500 F. vs. 446 F.
on DOT 4
2. Will not damage paint surfaces if spilled.
NEGATIVES OF DOT 5:
1. Is more compressible which causes a spongier pedal.
2. Silicone is not able to deal with moisture, therefore
any water, or air will boil more readily than Polyetherbased (dot 4, 5.1) which will mix. DOT 5.1 for example is
2 times less compressible than silicone based, and will
provide a firmer pedal.
Registered trademarks are property of their respective owners and are used for reference purposes only. All discounts are based on wholesale pricing.
Bleeding The Brake
28
Bleeding The Brake
SILICONE BASED FLUID:
Fluids containing Silicone are generally used in military
type vehicles and because Silicone based
fluids will not damage painted surfaces they are also
somewhat common in show cars.
Silicone-based fluids are regarded as DOT 5 fluids.
They are highly compressible and can give the driver a
feeling of a spongy pedal. The higher the brake system
temperature the more the compressibility of the fluid and
this increases the feeling of a spongy pedal.
Silicone based fluids are non-hydroscopic meaning
that they will not absorb or mix with water. When water
is present in the brake system it will create a water/
fluid/water/fluid situation. Because water boils at
approximately 212º F, the ability of the brake system
to operate correctly decreases, and the steam created
from boiling water adds air to the system. It is important
to remember that water may be present in any brake
system. Therefore silicone brake fluid lacks the ability
to deal with moisture and will dramatically decrease a
brake systems performance.
POLYGLYCOL ETHER-BASED
FLUIDS:
Fluids containing Poly glycol ethers are regarded
as DOT 3, 4, and DOT 5.1. These type fluids are
hydroscopic meaning they have an ability to mix with
water and still perform adequately. However, water
will drastically reduce the boiling point of fluid. In a
passenger car this is not an issue. In a racecar it is a
major issue because as the boiling point decreases the
performance ability of the fluid also decreases.
Poly glycol type fluids are 2 times less compressible
than silicone type fluids, even when heated. Less
compressibility of brake fluid will increase pedal feel.
Changing fluid on a regular basis will greatly increase
the performance of the brake system.
FLUID SPECIFICATIONS
All brake fluids must meet federal standard #116. Under
this standard is three Department of Transportation
(DOT) minimal specifications for brake fluid. They are
DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 (for fluids based with
Polyalkylene Glycol Ether) and DOT 5 (for Silicone
based fluids).
BLEEDING METHODS
INFORMATION:
Follow the standard Harley Davidson method, or there
are many posted on the Web under “Motorcycle brake
bleeding procedures” in your search engine.
FOR MORE INFORMATION,
PLEASE CONTACT
YOUR DEALER, SERVICE
TECHNICIAN OR
360BRAKE.COM
The 360 Brake Company was formed in the Fall of
2007, and acquired certain assets of Baldwin-Wilson
Development Corporation (“BWDC”), including the rights
to manufacture and market the 360 Brake. BWDC sold
numerous brakes and had many extremely satisfied
customers. But as, with any new product, BWDC’s
customers have questions, warranty claims and issues.
BWDC is no longer manufacturing or servicing
brakes. Although the 360 Brake Company had
nothing to do with BWDC and has no obligations to
BWDC’s customers, we do not want anyone in the
motorcycle community to ride on poorly installed,
damaged, or worn-out brakes. Just like the brakes on
your car, the brakes on your motorcycle need servicing
from time to time.
The 360 Brake Company will be supplying pads, rotors,
and other parts for BWDC’s old customers who own
the original 360 Brake. However, we are not assuming
BWDC’s other obligations or responsibilities to its old
customers.
Here is how we can help:
I bought a brake from The Baldwin Wilson
Development Company (BWDC), and I have a
problem. How can the new 360 Brake Company help
me?
For customers wanting to upgrade to the “New” 360
Brake developed by 360 Brake, we can help as follows:
1. If you purchased a brake from BWDC and it in
someway has failed, you may send it in to us, and
we will exchange it for $395 Polished, or $495 for
Chrome or Anodized. You will have to prepay for
your order and pay for shipping of your old and new
replacement brakes. This only applies to brakes that
have failed or in some way have a defect.
2. If you purchased a brake from BWDC and it is new
and has not been installed on a motorcycle, our
suggestion is to make sure the brake is in good
working order prior to installation on a bike. If for
some reason you do not want to use the brake that
you have, some customers have been selling these
on eBay and then purchasing the “New” 360 Brake. If
you have questions or concerns about the brake you
purchased from BWDC you may go to www.BaldwinWilson.com
I purchased a 360 Brake from BWDC but never
received it. How can the new 360 Brake Company
help me?
If you purchased and paid for a brake from BWDC, but
never received it, your name will be included on a list
of customers to receive free brakes. The 360 Brake
Company thought it was unfair that someone paid for
a brake but never received it. We will do our best to fill
those orders, so customers get their brakes. Again, it
is not our responsibility to solve BWDC’s problems, but
we do not think it is fair for BWDC’s old customers to
pay for a brake and never receive it. We are going to
try to remedy that situation. Those shipments should be
transpiring over the next several months.
Even though the 360 Brake Company did NOT
receive money for selling the old brake you purchased
from BWDC, we think it is important that people are
satisfied with the product. This is a safety device, and
you should feel comfortable with the brakes on your
bike. We made it our company policy to try an ensure
customer satisfaction with all our customers and even
with BWDC’s old customers. We cannot solve every
customer complaint that BWDC caused, but we can try
to help.
In exchange, we hope you tell everyone you meet
about the 360 Brake Company. We hope to win the
trust of the motorcycle community, one brake at a
time.
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Customer
Satisfaction
Pledge
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