Please

​ ​always​ ​refer​ ​to​ ​the​ ​​

http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/

for

​ ​an​ ​updated​ ​version​ ​of​ ​this​ ​3D​ ​printing​ ​handbook​ ​(PDF​ ​download).

QUICK​ ​GUIDE​ ​TO​ ​THE​ ​FIRST​ ​PRINT 

1.

​ ​Read​ ​the​ ​safety​ ​instructions​ ​carefully​ ​(​

page ​ ​7​

)

2.

​ ​Place​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​on​ ​a​ ​flat​ ​and​ ​stable​ ​surface​ ​(​

page ​ ​11​

)

3.

​ ​Download​ ​and​ ​install​ ​the​ ​drivers​ ​(​

page ​ ​37​

)

4.

​ ​Calibrate​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​by​ ​following​ ​our​ ​calibration​ ​flow​ ​(​

page ​ ​11​

)

5.

​ ​Insert​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​into​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​print​ ​your​ ​first​ ​model​ ​(​

page ​ ​26​

)

Important ​ ​notice,​ ​tip,​ ​hint​ ​or​ ​information​ ​that​ ​helps​ ​you​ ​print​ ​with​ ​ease.

Read ​ ​carefully!​ ​This​ ​part​ ​of​ ​text​ ​has​ ​the​ ​uppermost​ ​importance​ ​-​ ​either​ ​for​ ​user safety

​ ​of​ ​for​ ​a​ ​​proper​​ ​​printer​​ ​service.

This ​ ​symbol​ ​indicates​ ​text​ ​related​ ​to​ ​a​ ​​printer​​ ​kit​ ​only.

Handbook version 2.01

from September 7, 2017 © Prusa Research s.r.o.

2

About​ ​the​ ​author 

Josef

​ ​Prusa​​ ​(born​ ​Feb​ ​23​ rd

, ​ ​1990)​ ​became​ ​interested​ ​in​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​printing​ ​phenomenon​ ​before joining ​ ​the​ ​Prague’s​ ​University​ ​of​ ​Economics​ ​in​ ​2009​ ​-​ ​at​ ​first​ ​it​ ​was​ ​a​ ​hobby,​ ​a​ ​new technology ​ ​open​ ​to​ ​changes​ ​and​ ​improvements.​ ​The​ ​hobby​ ​soon​ ​became​ ​a​ ​passion​ ​and

Josef ​ ​grew​ ​into​ ​one​ ​of​ ​the​ ​leading​ ​developers​ ​of​ ​Adrien​ ​Bowyer’s​ ​international,​ ​open​ ​source,

RepRap ​ ​project.​ ​Today,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​see​ ​the​ ​Prusa​ ​design​ ​in​ ​different​ ​versions​ ​all​ ​around​ ​the world, ​ ​it​ ​is​ ​one​ ​of​ ​the​ ​most​ ​popular​ ​printers​ ​and​ ​thanks​ ​to​ ​it,​ ​knowledge​ ​about​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​printing technology ​ ​significantly​ ​increased​ ​among​ ​public.

Jo’s ​ ​work​ ​on​ ​self-replicating​ ​printers​ ​(you​ ​can​ ​print​ ​the​ ​other​ ​printer​ ​parts​ ​with​ ​your​ ​printer) are

​ ​still​ ​ongoing​ ​and​ ​currently​ ​there​ ​is​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​-​ ​the​ ​third​ ​iteration​ ​of​ ​the​ ​original​ ​3D​ ​printer.​ ​It is ​ ​constantly​ ​updated​ ​with​ ​the​ ​latest​ ​innovations​ ​and​ ​you've​ ​just​ ​purchased​ ​its​ ​latest​ ​version.

In

​ ​addition​ ​to​ ​printer​ ​hardware​ ​upgrades,​ ​the​ ​main​ ​goal​ ​is​ ​to​ ​make​ ​the​ ​technology​ ​more accessible ​ ​and​ ​understandable​ ​to​ ​all​ ​users.

Josef ​ ​Prusa​ ​also​ ​organizes​ ​workshops​ ​for​ ​the​ ​public,​ ​participates​ ​in​ ​professional conferences

​ ​dedicated​ ​to​ ​the​ ​popularization​ ​of​ ​3D​ ​printing.​ ​For​ ​example,​ ​he​ ​lectured​ ​at​ ​the

TEDx ​ ​conference​ ​in​ ​Prague​ ​and​ ​Vienna,​ ​at​ ​World​ ​Maker​ ​Faire​ ​in​ ​New​ ​York,​ ​Maker​ ​Faire​ ​in

Rome

​ ​or​ ​at​ ​the​ ​Open​ ​Hardware​ ​Summit​ ​hosted​ ​by​ ​MIT.​ ​Josef​ ​also​ ​teaches​ ​Arduino​ ​at

Charles ​ ​University​ ​and​ ​was​ ​also​ ​a​ ​lecturer​ ​at​ ​the​ ​Academy​ ​of​ ​Arts​ ​in​ ​Prague.

In ​ ​his​ ​own​ ​words,​ ​he​ ​imagines​ ​3D​ ​printers​ ​will​ ​be​ ​available​ ​in​ ​every​ ​home​ ​in​ ​a​ ​not​ ​too​ ​distant future.

​ ​“If​ ​anything​ ​is​ ​needed,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​simply​ ​print​ ​it.​ ​In​ ​this​ ​field,​ ​you​ ​just​ ​push​ ​the boundaries ​ ​every​ ​day...​ ​We're​ ​glad​ ​you're​ ​part​ ​of​ ​it​ ​with​ ​us!”

3

Table​ ​of​ ​contents 

About

​ ​the​ ​author

Table

​ ​of​ ​contents

2

​ ​Product​ ​details

3

​ ​Introduction

4

​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​printer

5

​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​printer​ ​kit

6

​ ​First​ ​steps

6.1

​ ​Printer​ ​unpacking​ ​and​ ​proper​ ​handling

6.2

​ ​Printer​ ​assembly

6.3

​ ​Setup​ ​before​ ​printing

6.3.1

​ ​Calibration​ ​flow

6.3.2

​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​preparation

6.3.3

​ ​Increasing​ ​the​ ​adhesion

6.3.4

​ ​Selftest​ ​(kit​ ​only)

6.3.4.1

​ ​Selftest​ ​error​ ​messages​ ​and​ ​resolution​ ​(kit​ ​only)

6.3.5

​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​(kit​ ​only)

6.3.5.1

​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​error​ ​messages​ ​and​ ​resolution​ ​(kit​ ​only)

6.3.5.1

​ ​Y​ ​axis​ ​alignment​ ​(kit​ ​only)

6.3.6

​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z

6.3.7

​ ​Mesh​ ​bed​ ​levelling

6.3.8

​ ​Loading​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder

6.3.8.1

​ ​Unloading​ ​the​ ​filament

6.3.9

​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​ ​(kit​ ​only)

6.3.9.1

​ ​Bed​ ​level​ ​correction​ ​(kit​ ​only)

6.3.10

​ ​Fine-tuning​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer

6.3.10.1

​ ​Print​ ​prusa​ ​logo

6.3.10.2

​ ​Check​ ​probe​ ​height​ ​(kit​ ​only)

7

​ ​Printing

7.1

​ ​Removing​ ​objects​ ​from​ ​the​ ​printer.

7.2

​ ​Printer​ ​Control

7.2.1

​ ​LCD​ ​screen

7.2.2

​ ​Print​ ​statistics

7.2.2

​ ​Silent​ ​vs.​ ​Hi-power​ ​mode

7.2.3

​ ​Factory​ ​reset

7.2.4

​ ​LCD​ ​layout

7.2.5

​ ​Print​ ​speed​ ​versus​ ​print​ ​quality

7.2.6

​ ​USB​ ​cable​ ​and​ ​Pronterface

7.3

​ ​Printer​ ​addons

7.3.1

​ ​Different​ ​nozzles

7.3.1.1

​ ​Hardened​ ​steel​ ​nozzle

​6

​6

​8

​9

​19

​19

​20

​21

​22

​13

​14

​15

​16

​22

​23

​23

​23

​24

​10

​10

​11

​11

​11

​12

​13

​28

​30

​30

​32

​32

​33

​25

​25

​26

​26

​26

​27

​27

​3

​4

4

7.3.1.2

​ ​0.25mm​ ​nozzle

8

​ ​Advanced​ ​calibration

8.1

​ ​PID​ ​tuning​ ​for​ ​Hotend​ ​(Optional)

8.2

​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​calibration/​ ​Temp.​ ​calibration​ ​(Experimental/Optional)

8.3

​ ​View​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​details​ ​(Optional)

9

​ ​Printer​ ​drivers

10

​ ​Printing​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models

10.1

​ ​Where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​get​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​models?

10.2

​ ​In​ ​what​ ​program​ ​you​ ​can​ ​create​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models?

10.3

​ ​PrusaControl

10.4

​ ​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition

10.5

​ ​Bundled​ ​3D​ ​models

10.6

​ ​Print​ ​in​ ​color​ ​with​ ​ColorPrint

10.6

​ ​Printing​ ​of​ ​non-standard​ ​models

10.6.1

​ ​Printing​ ​with​ ​support​ ​material

10.6.2

​ ​Large​ ​object​ ​printing

11

​ ​Materials ​46

11.1-11 ​ ​ABS​,​ ​PLA,​ ​PET,​ ​HIPS,​ ​PP,​ ​Nylon,​ ​Flex,​ ​Composite​ ​materials,​ ​ASA,​ ​nGen,​ ​PC-ABS ​46

11.12

​ ​Dialing​ ​in​ ​new​ ​materials ​48

​37

​37

​37

​38

​40

​41

​41

​43

​43

​44

12

​ ​FAQ​ ​-​ ​Printer​ ​maintenance​ ​and​ ​print​ ​issues

12.1

​ ​Regular​ ​maintenance

12.1.1

​ ​Bearings

12.1.2

​ ​Fans

12.1.3

​ ​Extruder​ ​drive​ ​gear

12.1.4

​ ​Electronics

12.1.5

​ ​PEI​ ​rejuvenation

12.1

​ ​Print​ ​surface​ ​preparation

12.2

​ ​Clogged​ ​/​ ​jammed​ ​extruder

12.3

​ ​Nozzle​ ​cleaning

12.4

​ ​Replacing​ ​/​ ​changing​ ​the​ ​nozzle

12.5

​ ​Printing​ ​problems

12.5.1

​ ​Layers​ ​break​ ​and​ ​split​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​ABS​ ​material

12.5.2

​ ​Models​ ​contain​ ​either​ ​too​ ​much​ ​or​ ​not​ ​enough​ ​of​ ​the​ ​filament

12.6

​ ​Problems​ ​with​ ​finished​ ​models

12.6.1

​ ​Model​ ​breaks​ ​and/or​ ​is​ ​easily​ ​damaged

12.7

​ ​Updating​ ​printer​ ​firmware

13

​ ​FAQ​ ​-​ ​common​ ​issues​ ​when​ ​assembling​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​kit

13.1

​ ​Nozzle/print​ ​surface​ ​gap​ ​is​ ​greater​ ​in​ ​the​ ​middle​ ​than​ ​at​ ​the​ ​corners

13.2

​ ​Printer​ ​stops​ ​printing​ ​soon​ ​after​ ​start

13.3

​ ​Printer​ ​can’t​ ​read​ ​SD​ ​card

13.4

​ ​Loose​ ​X-​ ​and/or​ ​Y-axis​ ​belts

13.5

​ ​Detached​ ​cables​ ​to​ ​the​ ​heatbed

​53

​53

​53

​53

​50

​50

​50

​51

​53

​53

​49

​49

​49

​49

​49

​49

​49

​54

​54

​55

​55

​56

​57

​33

​33

​33

​34

​34

​37

5

2​ ​Product​ ​details 

Title: ​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​/​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​(kit),​ ​Filament:​ ​1.75​ ​mm

Manufacturer: ​ ​Prusa​ ​Research​ ​s.r.o.,​ ​Partyzánská​ ​188/7A,​ ​Prague,​ ​170​ ​00,​ ​Czech​ ​Republic

Contacts: ​ ​phone​ ​+420​ ​222​ ​263​ ​718,​ ​e-mail:​ ​​ [email protected]

EEE ​ ​group:​ ​3​ ​(IT​ ​and/or​ ​telecommunication​ ​equipment),​ ​Device​ ​use:​ ​indoor​ ​only

Power ​ ​supply:​ ​90-135​ ​VAC,​ ​2​ ​A​ ​/​ ​180-264​ ​VAC,​ ​1​ ​A​ ​(50-60​ ​Hz)

Working ​ ​temperature​ ​range:​ ​18​ ​°C​ ​(PLA)-38​ ​°C,​ ​indoor​ ​use​ ​only

Working ​ ​humidity:​ ​85​ ​%​ ​or​ ​less

Kit ​ ​weight​ ​(brutto​ ​/​ ​netto):​ ​9.8​ ​kg​ ​/​ ​6.3​ ​kg,​ ​assembled​ ​printer​ ​weight​ ​(brutto​ ​/​ ​netto):​ ​12​ ​kg​ ​/

6.3

​ ​kg.​ ​Serial​ ​number​ ​is​ ​located​ ​on​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​frame​ ​and​ ​also​ ​on​ ​the​ ​packaging.

3​ ​Introduction 

Thank

​ ​you​ ​for​ ​purchasing​ ​our​ ​original​ ​3D​ ​​printer​​ ​​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​​from​ ​Josef​ ​Prusa either ​ ​as​ ​an​ ​assembled​ ​​printer​​ ​or​ ​a​ ​​printer​​ ​kit​ ​-​ ​as​ ​your​ ​purchase​ ​supports​ ​us​ ​with​ ​its​ ​further development.

​ ​Read​ ​the​ ​handbook​ ​carefully,​ ​please,​ ​all​ ​chapters​ ​contain​ ​valuable​ ​info​ ​for​ ​the correct ​ ​service​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer.​ ​​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​​is​ ​a​ ​successor​ ​to​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3

MK2

​ ​with​ ​small​ ​hardware​ ​tweaks​ ​for​ ​easier​ ​assembly​ ​and​ ​improved​ ​reliability.

Please

​ ​check​ ​the​ ​​

http://prusa3d.com/drivers

​ ​page​ ​for​ ​updated​ ​version​ ​of​ ​this​ ​3D

printing

​ ​hanbook​ ​(PDF​ ​download).

In ​ ​case​ ​of​ ​any​ ​​printer​​ ​related​ ​problem​ ​do​ ​not​ ​hesitate​ ​to​ ​contact​ ​us​ ​at​ ​​

[email protected]

.We are ​ ​glad​ ​to​ ​receive​ ​all​ ​your​ ​valuable​ ​comments​ ​and​ ​tips.​ ​We​ ​strongly​ ​suggest​ ​you​ ​to​ ​visit​ ​our official

​ ​forum​ ​at​ ​​ forum.prusa3d.com

,

​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​solutions​ ​to​ ​common​ ​issues,​ ​tips, advice ​ ​and​ ​hints​ ​in​ ​addition​ ​to​ ​actual​ ​information​ ​about​ ​the​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​​printer’s development.

3.1​ ​Glossary 

Bed,

​ ​​Heatbed,​ ​Printbed​​ ​-​ ​​Commonly​​ ​used​ ​​term​​ ​for​ ​​printing​​ ​pad​ ​-​ ​a​ ​heated​ ​area​ ​of​ ​3D printer ​​ ​where​ ​3D​ ​objects​ ​are​ ​printed.

Extruder

​​ ​-​ ​​Printing​​ ​head​ ​or​ ​extruder​ ​is​ ​a​ ​part​ ​of​ ​a​ ​​printer​​ ​consisting​ ​of​ ​a​ ​​nozzle​,​ ​hobbed pulley,

​ ​idler​ ​and​ ​a​ ​​nozzle​​ ​fan.

Filament

​​ ​-​ ​​Term​​ ​for​ ​plastic​ ​provided​ ​on​ ​spool​ ​is​ ​called​ ​“​filament”​,​ ​it’s​ ​used​ ​throughout​ ​this handbook ​ ​as​ ​well​ ​as​ ​in​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu​ ​on​ ​the​ ​​printer​.

Heater,

​ ​​Hotend​​ ​-​ ​other​ ​name​ ​for​ ​a​ ​​printing​​ ​​nozzle​.

1.75

​​ ​-​ ​3D​ ​printers​ ​use​ ​two​ ​different​ ​diameters​ ​(thickness)​ ​of​ ​a​ ​​filament​ ​(​thickness​)​:​ ​2.85​ ​mm

( ​commonly​​ ​called​ ​as​ ​3​ ​mm)​ ​and​ ​1.75​ ​mm.​ ​1.75mm​ ​version​ ​is​ ​more​ ​used​ ​worldwide​ ​though there ​ ​is​ ​no​ ​difference​ ​in​ ​​printing​​ ​quality.

6

3.2​ ​Disclaimer 

Failure

​ ​to​ ​read​ ​the​ ​Manual​ ​may​ ​lead​ ​to​ ​personal​ ​injury,​ ​inferior​ ​results​ ​or​ ​damage​ ​to​ ​the​ ​3D printer.

​ ​Always​ ​ensure​ ​that​ ​anyone​ ​who​ ​operates​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​printer​ ​knows​ ​and​ ​understands​ ​the contents

​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Manual.​ ​We​ ​can​ ​not​ ​control​ ​the​ ​conditions​ ​in​ ​which​ ​you​ ​assemble​ ​the

Original ​ ​Prusa​ ​i3.​ ​For​ ​this​ ​and​ ​other​ ​reasons​ ​we​ ​do​ ​not​ ​assume​ ​responsibility​ ​and​ ​expressly disclaim

​ ​liability​ ​for​ ​loss,​ ​injuries,​ ​damage,​ ​or​ ​expense​ ​arising​ ​out​ ​of​ ​or​ ​in​ ​any​ ​way​ ​connected with ​ ​the​ ​assembly,​ ​handling,​ ​storage,​ ​use​ ​or​ ​disposal​ ​of​ ​the​ ​product.​ ​The​ ​information​ ​in​ ​this

Manual ​ ​is​ ​provided​ ​without​ ​any​ ​warranty,​ ​expressed​ ​or​ ​implied,​ ​regarding​ ​its​ ​correctness.

3.3​ ​Safety​ ​instructions 

Please ​ ​be​ ​very​ ​cautious​ ​during​ ​any​ ​interaction​ ​with​ ​the​ ​​printer​.​ ​This​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​an electrical ​ ​device​ ​with​ ​moving​ ​parts​ ​and​ ​hot-temperature​ ​areas.

1.

​ ​Device​ ​is​ ​for​ ​indoor​ ​use​ ​only.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​expose​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​to​ ​rain​ ​or​ ​snow.​ ​Always​ ​keep​ ​the printer ​ ​in​ ​a​ ​dry​ ​environment​ ​at​ ​a​ ​minimum​ ​distance​ ​of​ ​30​ ​cm​ ​from​ ​other​ ​objects.

2.

​ ​Always​ ​place​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​on​ ​a​ ​stable​ ​place,​ ​where​ ​it​ ​can​ ​not​ ​fall​ ​or​ ​tip​ ​over.

3.

​ ​The​ ​printer​ ​supply​ ​is​ ​household​ ​power​ ​outlet​ ​230​ ​VAC,​ ​50​ ​Hz​ ​or​ ​110​ ​VAC​ ​/​ ​60​ ​Hz;​ ​Never connect

​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​to​ ​a​ ​different​ ​power​ ​supply,​ ​it​ ​may​ ​cause​ ​malfunction​ ​or​ ​damage​ ​to​ ​the printer.

4.

​ ​Place​ ​the​ ​power​ ​cord​ ​so​ ​you​ ​can’t​ ​stumble​ ​on​ ​it,​ ​or​ ​step​ ​on​ ​it​ ​or​ ​otherwise​ ​expose​ ​to​ ​any damage.

​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​the​ ​power​ ​cord​ ​is​ ​not​ ​mechanically​ ​or​ ​otherwise​ ​damaged.​ ​Stop using ​ ​damaged​ ​cable​ ​immediately​ ​and​ ​replace​ ​it.

5.

​ ​When​ ​you​ ​disconnect​ ​the​ ​power​ ​cord​ ​from​ ​the​ ​socket,​ ​pull​ ​the​ ​plug​ ​rather​ ​than​ ​the​ ​cord​ ​to reduce ​ ​the​ ​risk​ ​of​ ​damage​ ​to​ ​plug​ ​or​ ​AC​ ​outlet.

6.

​ ​Never​ ​disassemble​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​power​ ​supply,​ ​it​ ​does​ ​not​ ​contain​ ​any​ ​parts​ ​that​ ​could​ ​be repaired ​ ​by​ ​an​ ​unskilled​ ​worker.​ ​All​ ​repairs​ ​must​ ​be​ ​provided​ ​by​ ​a​ ​qualified​ ​technician.

7.

​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​or​ ​heat​ ​bed​ ​when​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​printing​ ​or​ ​is​ ​warming​ ​up.​ ​Note that ​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​210-300​ ​°C​ ​(410-572​ ​°F);​ ​heatbed​ ​temperature​ ​can reach

​ ​over​ ​100​ ​°C​ ​(212​ ​°F).​ ​Temperatures​ ​above​ ​40​ ​°C​ ​(104​ ​°F)​ ​can​ ​cause​ ​harm​ ​to​ ​human body.

8.

​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​reach​ ​inside​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​while​ ​it​ ​is​ ​still​ ​in​ ​operation.​ ​An​ ​injury​ ​may​ ​be​ ​caused​ ​by​ ​its moving

​ ​parts.

9.

​ ​Prevent​ ​children​ ​from​ ​unsupervised​ ​access​ ​to​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​even​ ​when​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​not printing.

10.

​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​leave​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​unattended​ ​while​ ​it's​ ​still​ ​on!

11.

​ ​Plastic​ ​is​ ​being​ ​melted​ ​during​ ​printing​ ​which​ ​produces​ ​odors.​ ​Set​ ​up​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​some place ​ ​well​ ​ventilated.

3.4​ ​Licenses 

Original ​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​​printer​​ ​is​ ​a​ ​part​ ​of​ ​the​ ​RepRap​ ​project,​ ​the​ ​first​ ​open​ ​source​ ​3D printer ​​ ​project​ ​free​ ​to​ ​use​ ​under​ ​a​ ​​GNU​​ ​​GPL​​ ​v3​ ​​license

( www.

​gnu​.org/​licenses​/​gpl​-3.0.en.html​ ).

​ ​If​ ​you​ ​improve​ ​or​ ​alter​ ​any​ ​part​ ​of​ ​a​ ​​printer​​ ​and​ ​you are ​ ​willing​ ​to​ ​sell,​ ​then​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​publish​ ​the​ ​source​ ​codes​ ​under​ ​the​ ​same​ ​​license​.​ ​All

3D-printed ​ ​elements​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​that​ ​can​ ​be​ ​improved​ ​upon​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​at http://www.prusa3d.com/prusa-i3-printable-parts/ .

7

4​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​printer 

Unlike ​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​kit,​ ​it’s​ ​completely​ ​assembled​ ​and​ ​almost​ ​ready​ ​to​ ​​print​.​ ​After​ ​plugging​ ​in and

​ ​running​ ​the​ ​necessary​ ​calibration​ ​you,​ ​can​ ​​print​​ ​a​ ​3D​ ​object​ ​in​ ​the​ ​matter​ ​of​ ​minutes after ​ ​unpacking​ ​the​ ​​printer​.​ ​Keep​ ​in​ ​mind​ ​you​ ​can​ ​use​ ​our​ ​​support​​ ​email​ ​when​ ​you purchased ​ ​the​ ​assembled​ ​​printer​.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​hesitate​ ​to​ ​write​ ​us​ ​if​ ​you​ ​need​ ​any​ ​advice​ ​or​ ​help.

We ​ ​will​ ​gladly​ ​help​ ​with​ ​any​ ​specific​ ​prints.

3D ​ ​printers​ ​use​ ​two​ ​different​ ​diameters​ ​of​ ​a​ ​​filament​​ ​(you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​more​ ​in​ ​chapter

Materials

): ​ ​2.85​ ​mm​ ​and​ ​1.75​ ​mm.​ ​1.75mm​ ​version​ ​is​ ​used​ ​more​ ​worldwide,​ ​though there ​ ​is​ ​no​ ​difference​ ​in​ ​​printing​​ ​quality.​ ​Filament​ ​is​ ​provided​ ​on​ ​a​ ​spool​ ​where​ ​you can

​ ​find​ ​the​ ​basic​ ​information​ ​-​ ​​filament​​ ​maker,​ ​​material​​ ​(ABS,​ ​PLA,​ ​etc.)​ ​and​ ​​filament diameter.

​ ​2.85​ ​mm​ ​​filament​​ ​is​ ​​commonly​​ ​called​ ​as​ ​3​ ​mm.

This

​ ​​printer​​ ​supports​ ​only​ ​a​ ​1.75​ ​mm​ ​​filament​.​ ​Please​ ​check​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​diameter​ ​to​ ​be

1.75mm

​ ​before​ ​inserting​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​try​ ​to​ ​insert​ ​wider​ ​​filament​​ ​it​ ​could​ ​damage the ​ ​extruder.

Pict.

1 Original Prusa i3 MK2S printer description

8

5​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​printer​ ​kit 

Original ​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​kit​ ​is​ ​pictured​ ​in​ ​p​ict​.​ ​2.​ ​​Detailed​​ ​information​ ​and​ ​assembly description

​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​in​ ​chapter​ ​​

6.2

​ ​Printer​ ​assembly​

.

​ ​We​ ​offer​ ​the​ ​​support​​ ​for users ​ ​who​ ​purchased​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​kit​ ​through​ ​our​ ​official​ ​forum.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​need​ ​help​ ​do not ​ ​hesitate​ ​to​ ​visit​ ​our​ ​forum​ ​at​ ​​ forum.prusa3d.com

.

​ ​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​the​ ​answers​ ​for your ​ ​problem​ ​there.​ ​If​ ​not,​ ​please​ ​just​ ​post​ ​your​ ​question​ ​directly​ ​there.

 

 

 

Pict.

2 Original Prusa i3 MK2S printer kit unboxed

9

6​ ​First​ ​steps 

6.1​ ​Printer​ ​unpacking​ ​and​ ​proper​ ​handling 

Holding ​ ​the​ ​upper​ ​frame,​ ​take​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​pull​ ​it​ ​out​ ​from​ ​the​ ​box.​ ​Be​ ​careful​ ​when handling

​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​not​ ​to​ ​damage​ ​the​ ​electronics​ ​and​ ​thus​ ​the​ ​​proper​​ ​​printer​​ ​functionality.

Anytime ​ ​you​ ​move​ ​the​ ​​printer,​​ ​always​ ​hold​ ​the​ ​upper​ ​frame​ ​with​ ​hotbed​ ​upright​ ​pointing away ​ ​from​ ​you​ ​as​ ​pictured​ ​in​ ​pict.​ ​3​. ​ ​When​ ​unpacking​​ ​the​ ​fully​ ​assembled​ ​version,​​ ​remove the ​ ​top​ ​foam​ ​from​ ​the​ ​box​ ​and​ ​gently​ ​lift​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​up.​ ​Parts​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​are​ ​secured​ ​by more

​ ​foam​ ​which​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​removed.​ ​Some​ ​parts​ ​are​ ​additionally​ ​secured​ ​with​ ​the​ ​white zip-ties, ​ ​cut​ ​those​ ​off​ ​too.

 

Pict.

3 Proper handling of a

printer

Both ​ ​the​ ​assembled​ ​version​ ​and​ ​the​ ​kit​ ​version​ ​come​ ​with​ ​a​ ​few​ ​things​ ​you​ ​might​ ​need during ​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​use.

-

USB

​ ​Cable​​ ​-​ ​used​ ​for​ ​uploading​ ​a​ ​new​ ​firmware​ ​or​ ​alternatively​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​the computer.

-

Acupuncture

​ ​needle​​ ​-​ ​used​ ​for​ ​cleaning​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​when​ ​stuck.​ ​See​ ​the​ ​chapter

11.3

​ ​Nozzle​ ​cleaning​ ​ ​for​ ​more​ ​information.

-

Glue

​ ​stick​​ ​-​ ​Used​ ​for​ ​better​ ​Nylon​ ​adhesion​ ​or​ ​as​ ​a​ ​separator​ ​for​ ​Flex​ ​materials.​ ​See the

​ ​chapter​ ​​ 11 ​ ​Materials​ ​ ​for​ ​more​ ​information.

Test

​ ​protocol​ ​​-​ ​All​ ​the​ ​components​ ​of​ ​every​ ​printer​ ​are​ ​tested.​ ​The​ ​electronic​ ​parts are ​ ​even​ ​connected​ ​as​ ​in​ ​a​ ​final​ ​assembly​ ​and​ ​battery​ ​of​ ​tests​ ​is​ ​ran.​ ​Only​ ​when​ ​all tests

​ ​pass​ ​the​ ​electronics​ ​get​ ​a​ ​serial​ ​number​ ​and​ ​protocol​ ​+​ ​S/N​ ​stickers​ ​are​ ​printed.

Test ​ ​protocol​ ​shows​ ​all​ ​the​ ​test​ ​results​ ​of​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​components.

10

6.2​ ​Printer​ ​assembly 

With ​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​​printer​​ ​kit​ ​we​ ​suggest​ ​to​ ​follow​ ​the​ ​guidelines​ ​and assemble ​ ​the​ ​kit​ ​according​ ​to​ ​the​ ​the​ ​​online​​ ​manual​ ​at​ ​​ manual.prusa3d.com

.

​ ​(​Online manual ​ ​is​ ​available​ ​in​ ​several​ ​languages​ ​on​ ​the​ ​website).​ ​The​ ​construction​ ​of​ ​the printer

​​ ​should​ ​not​ ​take​ ​more​ ​than​ ​one​ ​working​ ​day.​ ​After​ ​a​ ​successful​ ​completion continue

​ ​to​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​​ 6.3

​ ​Setup​ ​before​ ​printing​ .

6.3​ ​Setup​ ​before​ ​printing 

● Place

​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​to​ ​a​ ​horizontally​ ​stable​ ​position,​ ​best​ ​place​ ​is​ ​a​ ​workbench​ ​where there ​ ​is​ ​no​ ​risk​ ​of​ ​​draft​.

● Attach ​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​holders​ ​to​ ​the​ ​upper​ ​frame.

● Attach

​ ​​Filament​​ ​to​ ​the​ ​holders.​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​spool​ ​doesn’t​ ​jam​ ​and​ ​can move

​ ​freely.

● Plug ​ ​in​ ​the​ ​AC​ ​power​ ​cord,​ ​check​ ​to​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​setting​ ​for​ ​AC​ ​voltage​ ​is selected ​ ​(110V/220V)​ ​and​ ​turn​ ​on​ ​the​ ​switch.

● Check

​ ​out​ ​the​ ​firmware​ ​version​ ​(in​ ​the​ ​Support​ ​menu​ ​via​ ​LCD​ ​panel)​ ​and​ ​please upgrade ​ ​to​ ​the​ ​latest​ ​one​ ​from​ ​our​ ​website​ ​​ www.prusa3d.com/drivers .

Filament

​ ​​is​ ​a​ ​common​ ​​term​​ ​for​ ​the​ ​​plastic​ ​rod​ ​​-​ ​​material​​ ​provided​ ​on​ ​a​ ​spool​ ​from which

​ ​3D​ ​objects​ ​are​ ​printed.

6.3.1​ ​Calibration​ ​flow 

11

There

​ ​are​ ​few​ ​special​ ​occasions​ ​where​ ​you​ ​will​ ​need​ ​to​ ​redo​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​or​ ​part​ ​of​ ​it.

● Firmware

​ ​update​​ ​-​ ​Complete​ ​guide​ ​is​ ​in​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​​

11.8

​ ​Updating​ ​printer​ ​firmware​

.

6.3.9.

​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​

​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​rerun​ ​otherwise​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​show​ ​an​ ​error message.

● Replacing ​ ​the​ ​PEI/Ultem​ ​sheet​​ ​-​ ​When​ ​PEI​ ​is​ ​changed​ ​(guide​ ​is​ ​at manual.prusa3d.com

), ​ ​whole​ ​heated​ ​bed​ ​is​ ​removed​ ​and​ ​reassembled.​ ​This​ ​might change ​ ​geometry​ ​of​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​​KIT​ ​calibration​ ​flow​​ ​should​ ​be followed ​ ​even​ ​on​ ​the​ ​pre​ ​assembled​ ​printer.

● Readjusting

​ ​the​ ​P.I.N.D.A.​ ​probe​​ ​-​ ​Run​ ​​ 6.3.6

​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​ ​to​ ​store​ ​new​ ​reference​ ​Z

height ​ ​values.

It ​ ​is​ ​important​ ​to​ ​disconnect​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​USB​ ​from​ ​any​ ​computer​ ​or​ ​OctoPrint​ ​running on ​ ​RaspberryPi​ ​for​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​calibration.​ ​Printer​ ​will​ ​not​ ​respond​ ​to​ ​any​ ​request from ​ ​the​ ​host​ ​and​ ​communication​ ​will​ ​timeout,​ ​when​ ​host​ ​resets​ ​the​ ​connection,​ ​the printer

​ ​restarts​ ​and​ ​might​ ​end​ ​up​ ​in​ ​weird​ ​state​ ​requiring​ ​​

7.2.3

​ ​Factory​ ​Reset​

.

6.3.2​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​preparation 

To ​ ​achieve​ ​the​ ​best​ ​adhesion​ ​on​ ​the​ ​new​ ​surface,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​important​ ​to​ ​keep​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​clean.

Cleaning ​ ​of​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​very​ ​easy.​ ​The​ ​best​ ​option​ ​is​ ​​Isopropyl​ ​alcohol​ ​​available​ ​in drugstores ​ ​which​ ​is​ ​the​ ​best​ ​for​ ​ABS,​ ​PLA​ ​and​ ​others​ ​(except​ ​for​ ​PETG​ ​where​ ​the​ ​adhesion may ​ ​be​ ​too​ ​strong.​ ​See​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​​ 11.3

​ ​PET​ ​ ​for​ ​instructions).​ ​Pour​ ​a​ ​little​ ​amount​ ​on

12

unscented ​ ​paper​ ​towel​ ​and​ ​wipe​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.​ ​The​ ​bed​ ​should​ ​be​ ​cleaned​ ​while​ ​cold​ ​for the ​ ​best​ ​results​ ​but​ ​it​ ​can​ ​also​ ​be​ ​cleaned​ ​when​ ​already​ ​preheated​ ​for​ ​PLA,​ ​just​ ​be​ ​careful not ​ ​to​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​surface​ ​or​ ​the​ ​nozzle.​ ​When​ ​cleaning​ ​at​ ​higher​ ​temperatures​ ​the​ ​alcohol will ​ ​evaporate​ ​before​ ​it​ ​can​ ​clean​ ​anything.​ ​Alternatively,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​with​ ​​warm

water

​ ​and​ ​a​ ​few​ ​drops​ ​of​ ​a​ ​dish​ ​soap​​ ​on​ ​a​ ​paper​ ​towel.​ ​​Denatured​ ​alcohol​​ ​is​ ​yet​ ​another option.

The ​ ​surface​ ​does​ ​not​ ​have​ ​to​ ​be​ ​cleaned​ ​before​ ​every​ ​print!​ ​It​ ​is​ ​just​ ​important​ ​to​ ​​not

touch

​​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​with​ ​​your​ ​hands​​ ​or​ ​​dirty​ ​tools​.​ ​​Clean​ ​your​ ​tools​ ​with​ ​the​ ​same

solution

​​ ​as​ ​you​ ​would​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​you​ ​will​ ​be​ ​able​ ​to​ ​start​ ​your​ ​next​ ​print​ ​right​ ​away.

You ​ ​can​ ​leave​ ​small​ ​marks​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​with​ ​your​ ​nozzle​ ​or​ ​tools,​ ​they​ ​will​ ​typically be

​ ​shinier​ ​than​ ​the​ ​rest.​ ​It​ ​does​ ​not​ ​affect​ ​the​ ​functionality​ ​or​ ​adhesion.​ ​However,​ ​if​ ​you​ ​want to ​ ​have​ ​same​ ​surface​ ​look​ ​on​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​printbed​ ​you​ ​can​ ​resurface​ ​it.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​is​ ​to take ​ ​a​ ​hard​ ​side​ ​of​ ​dry​ ​kitchen​ ​sponge​ ​and​ ​wipe​ ​the​ ​affected​ ​area​ ​with​ ​circular​ ​motion​ ​gently few ​ ​times.

The ​ ​industrial​ ​glue​ ​which​ ​holds​ ​the​ ​PEI​ ​sheet​ ​on​ ​the​ ​heatbed​ ​itself​ ​softens​ ​when temperatures ​ ​greater​ ​than​ ​110​ ​°C​ ​are​ ​used.​ ​If​ ​higher​ ​temperatures​ ​are​ ​used,​ ​the glue ​ ​can​ ​migrate​ ​under​ ​the​ ​PEI​ ​and​ ​create​ ​slight​ ​bumps​ ​on​ ​the​ ​surface.

6.3.3​ ​Increasing​ ​the​ ​adhesion 

In ​ ​some​ ​special​ ​occasions,​ ​like​ ​a​ ​tall​ ​object​ ​with​ ​a​ ​very​ ​small​ ​contact​ ​area​ ​with​ ​the​ ​print surface, ​ ​you​ ​might​ ​need​ ​to​ ​increase​ ​the​ ​adhesion.​ ​Fortunately​ ​PEI​ ​is​ ​a​ ​very​ ​chemically resistant ​ ​polymer​ ​and​ ​you​ ​can​ ​temporary​ ​apply​ ​other​ ​adhesion​ ​solutions​ ​without​ ​damaging it.

​ ​This​ ​also​ ​applies​ ​to​ ​materials​ ​which​ ​would​ ​not​ ​stick​ ​to​ ​PEI​ ​otherwise,​ ​like​ ​Nylon​ ​etc.

Before ​ ​applying​ ​anything​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed,​ ​consider​ ​using​ ​​Brim​ ​option​​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​which​ ​increases the ​ ​surface​ ​area​ ​of​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer.

For ​ ​PLA​ ​and​ ​Nylon​ ​blends​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​glue​ ​stick​ ​does​ ​the​ ​trick.​ ​Glue​ ​can​ ​be​ ​later​ ​easily removed ​ ​by​ ​window​ ​cleaner​ ​or​ ​dish​ ​soap​ ​water.

For

​ ​ABS​ ​prints,​ ​ABS​ ​juice​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used​ ​and​ ​later​ ​cleaned​ ​with​ ​pure​ ​acetone.​ ​Be​ ​very​ ​gentle when ​ ​applying​ ​the​ ​juice​ ​and​ ​do​ ​so​ ​while​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​is​ ​cold.​ ​Prints​ ​will​ ​attach​ ​very​ ​strongly.

Prepared

​ ​​juice​​ ​can​ ​be​ ​also​ ​purchased​ ​in​ ​our​ ​e-shop.​ ​Unfortunately,​ ​UPS​ ​service does ​ ​not​ ​allow​ ​to​ ​deliver​ ​any​ ​acetone-based​ ​products​ ​due​ ​to​ ​shipping​ ​constraints.​ ​In that ​ ​case​ ​you​ ​get​ ​only​ ​the​ ​bottle​ ​and​ ​ABS​ ​from​ ​our​ ​e-shop​ ​and​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​source the ​ ​acetone​ ​locally.

6.3.4​ ​Selftest​ ​​

(kit​ ​only)

 

The ​ ​purpose​ ​of​ ​the​ ​selftest​ ​routine​ ​is​ ​to​ ​check​ ​most​ ​common​ ​errors​ ​when​ ​assembling​ ​and connecting

​ ​electronics​ ​and​ ​to​ ​help​ ​indicate​ ​any​ ​possible​ ​errors​ ​after​ ​assembly.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​run the ​ ​​Selftest​ ​​from​ ​​Calibration​ ​​menu​ ​on​ ​LCD​ ​panel.​ ​This​ ​should​ ​not​ ​be​ ​necessary​ ​on​ ​the assembled

​ ​printers​ ​as​ ​those​ ​are​ ​pretested.

13

Initiating ​ ​this​ ​routine​ ​performs​ ​a​ ​series​ ​of​ ​tests.​ ​The​ ​progress​ ​and​ ​results​ ​of​ ​each​ ​step​ ​are displayed ​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD.​ ​In​ ​case​ ​of​ ​errors​ ​found,​ ​the​ ​selftest​ ​is​ ​interrupted​ ​and​ ​the​ ​reason​ ​for error ​ ​is​ ​shown​ ​to​ ​guide​ ​users​ ​in​ ​troubleshooting.

The ​ ​selftest​ ​is​ ​just​ ​a​ ​diagnostic​ ​tool,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​still​ ​attempt​ ​to​ ​print​ ​even​ ​after the

​ ​test​ ​fails.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​are​ ​absolutely​ ​certain​ ​that​ ​the​ ​affected​ ​part​ ​is​ ​correct,​ ​you​ ​may continue ​ ​with​ ​the​ ​print​ ​process.

Test ​ ​consists​ ​of

Extruder

​ ​and​ ​print​ ​fan​​ ​test

Heatbed

​​ ​and​ ​​hotend​​ ​proper​ ​wiring

XYZ

​ ​motors​​ ​proper​ ​wiring​ ​and​ ​functionality

XYZ

​ ​endstop​​ ​mechanical​ ​settings​ ​and​ ​proper​ ​wiring.

Loose

​ ​belt​ ​pulley​​ ​test.

6.3.4.1​ ​Selftest​ ​error​ ​messages​ ​and​ ​resolution​ ​(kit​ ​only) 

Fan Wiring error:

Check

​ ​proper​ ​wiring​ ​of​ ​print​ ​and​ ​hotend​ ​fan​ ​cables.​ ​Ensure​ ​that​ ​both​ ​are​ ​properly connected ​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Rambo​ ​electronics,​ ​and​ ​that​ ​they​ ​are​ ​not​ ​swapped.

Heater/Thermistor Not connected:

Check

​ ​proper​ ​wiring​ ​of​ ​hot​ ​end​ ​power​ ​cables​ ​and​ ​thermistor​ ​cables.​ ​Ensure​ ​that​ ​both are ​ ​properly​ ​connected​ ​to​ ​the​ ​Rambo​ ​electronics,​ ​and​ ​that​ ​they​ ​are​ ​not​ ​swapped.

Bed/Heater Wiring error:

Check

​ ​that​ ​heatbed​ ​and​ ​hotend​ ​power​ ​cables​ ​are​ ​not​ ​swapped​ ​or​ ​thermistor​ ​cables from ​ ​both​ ​hotend​ ​and​ ​heatbed​ ​are​ ​not​ ​swapped​ ​in​ ​the​ ​Rambo​ ​electronics.

Endstops Wiring error {XYZ}:

Check ​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​cabling​ ​of​ ​endstops.​ ​Routine​ ​indicates​ ​axis​ ​on​ ​which​ ​endstop reported ​ ​malfunction​ ​or​ ​is​ ​not​ ​properly​ ​responding.​ ​Check​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​connection​ ​in the ​ ​Rambo​ ​electronics.

Motor {XYZ} Endstop {XYZ}:

Check ​ ​that​ ​motor​ ​and​ ​endstop​ ​on​ ​indicated​ ​axis​ ​are​ ​properly​ ​connected​ ​to​ ​the

Rambo ​ ​electronics​ ​and​ ​not​ ​swapped​ ​with​ ​motor​ ​or​ ​endstop​ ​of​ ​different​ ​axis.​ ​Axis causing ​ ​the​ ​problems​ ​is​ ​indicated​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel.

Endstop not hit Motor {XZY}:

Check ​ ​mechanical​ ​settings​ ​that​ ​endstop​ ​can​ ​be​ ​reached​ ​when​ ​axis​ ​is​ ​in​ ​minimal position.

Loose pulley {XY}:

14

The ​ ​belt​ ​pulley​ ​is​ ​loose​ ​and​ ​slips​ ​on​ ​the​ ​motor​ ​shaft.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​important​ ​to​ ​tighten​ ​the​ ​first grub ​ ​screw​ ​on​ ​the​ ​flat​ ​piece​ ​of​ ​shaft,​ ​then​ ​continue​ ​with​ ​the​ ​second​ ​grub​ ​screw.

 

6.3.5​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​​

(kit​ ​only) 

The ​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​comes​ ​with​ ​a​ ​full​ ​mesh​ ​bed​ ​leveling​ ​feature,​ ​however for

​ ​this​ ​to​ ​work​ ​we​ ​need​ ​to​ ​first​ ​calibrate​ ​the​ ​distance​ ​between​ ​tip​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle and ​ ​P.I.N.D.A​ ​(​P​rusa​ ​​IND​uction​ ​​A​utoleveling)​ ​probe.

The

​ ​process​ ​is​ ​fairly​ ​straightforward,​ ​so​ ​let’s​ ​get​ ​to​ ​it.​ ​We​ ​also​ ​suggest​ ​to​ ​check out ​ ​our​ ​Guide​ ​for​ ​New​ ​User​ ​first​ ​at​ ​​ www.prusa3d.com/buildvideomk2 ​ ​with​ ​calibration​ ​tips.

The ​ ​purpose​ ​of​ ​the​ ​X/Y/Z​ ​calibration​ ​routine​ ​is​ ​to​ ​measure​ ​the​ ​skew​ ​of​ ​the​ ​X/Y/Z​ ​axes​ ​and​ ​to find

​ ​the​ ​position​ ​of​ ​the​ ​9​ ​calibration​ ​points​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​for​ ​the​ ​proper​ ​bed​ ​leveling.​ ​You can ​ ​run​ ​the​ ​​XYZ​ ​calibration​​ ​​from​ ​​Calibration​ ​​​menu​ ​on​ ​LCD​ ​panel.​ ​This​ ​should​ ​not​ ​be necessary

​ ​on​ ​the​ ​assembled​ ​printers​ ​as​ ​those​ ​are​ ​factory​ ​calibrated.

Place ​ ​a​ ​sheet​ ​of​ ​a​ ​regular​ ​office​ ​paper​ ​(for​ ​example​ ​the​ ​checklist shipped ​ ​with​ ​every​ ​order)​ ​and​ ​hold​ ​it​ ​under​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​during​ ​the​ ​first round

​ ​(first​ ​4​ ​points​ ​being​ ​checked)​ ​of​ ​calibration.​ ​If​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​catches on ​ ​the​ ​paper​ ​during​ ​the​ ​process,​ ​power​ ​off​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​lower​ ​the

P.I.N.D.A.

​ ​probe​ ​slightly.​ ​See​ ​the​ ​P.I.N.D.A.​ ​probe​ ​response​ ​diagram​ ​in

6.3.10.2

​ ​Check​ ​probe​ ​height​

.

​ ​The​ ​paper​ ​will​ ​not​ ​affect​ ​the​ ​calibration process.

​ ​The​ ​nozzle​ ​must​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​or​ ​deflect​ ​the​ ​bed by ​ ​any​ ​means.​ ​If​ ​everything​ ​went​ ​correctly,​ ​continue​ ​with​ ​the​ ​calibration process.

Initiating

​ ​this​ ​routine​ ​performs​ ​a​ ​series​ ​of​ ​measurements​ ​in​ ​three​ ​rounds:​ ​In​ ​the​ ​first​ ​round,​ ​4 sensor ​ ​points​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​are​ ​searched​ ​for​ ​carefully​ ​as​ ​to​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​by​ ​the nozzle.

​ ​In​ ​the​ ​second​ ​round,​ ​all​ ​9​ ​sensor​ ​points​ ​are​ ​found.​ ​In​ ​the​ ​last​ ​round​ ​the​ ​height​ ​above the ​ ​9​ ​sensor​ ​points​ ​is​ ​measured​ ​and​ ​stored​ ​into​ ​a​ ​non-volatile​ ​memory​ ​for​ ​reference,​ ​this finished

​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​axis​ ​calibration.

The ​ ​progress​ ​and​ ​results​ ​of​ ​each​ ​step​ ​are​ ​displayed​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD.​ ​In​ ​case​ ​of​ ​errors​ ​found,​ ​the

XYZ ​ ​calibration​ ​is​ ​interrupted​ ​and​ ​the​ ​reason​ ​for​ ​error​ ​is​ ​shown​ ​to​ ​guide​ ​in​ ​troubleshooting.

At ​ ​the​ ​start​ ​of​ ​the​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​procedure​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​prompts​ ​you​ ​by​ ​a​ ​following​ ​message:

"Calibrating X/Y.

Move Z carriage up to the end stoppers.

Click when done.”

After ​ ​that,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​asks​ ​you​ ​to​ ​confirm​ ​this​ ​step:​ ​​"Are

left and right Z carriages all up?"

Please ​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​you​ ​really​ ​move​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​carriage​ ​up​ ​to​ ​the​ ​end​ ​stoppers​ ​until​ ​you​ ​hear​ ​a rattling

​ ​sound​ ​as​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​stepper​ ​motors​ ​skip​ ​steps.​ ​This​ ​procedure​ ​ensures,​ ​that​ ​1)​ ​the​ ​X​ ​axis

15

is ​ ​perfectly​ ​horizontal,​ ​2)​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​in​ ​a​ ​known​ ​distance​ ​from​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed.​ ​In​ ​case the ​ ​Z​ ​carriage​ ​did​ ​​not​ ​​touch​ ​the​ ​end​ ​stoppers,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​could​ ​not​ ​possibly​ ​know​ ​the​ ​height of ​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​above​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​it​ ​could​ ​therefore​ ​crash​ ​into​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​during the ​ ​first​ ​round​ ​of​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration​ ​procedure.

The

​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​procedure​ ​also​ ​prompts​ ​you​ ​to​ ​​"Please

clean the nozzle for calibration.

Click when done."

If ​ ​this​ ​advice​ ​is​ ​not​ ​followed​ ​and​ ​there​ ​is​ ​a​ ​plastic​ ​debris​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle,​ ​then​ ​the​ ​debris may

​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​or​ ​even​ ​push​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​away​ ​from​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe,​ ​so​ ​the

PINDA ​ ​probe​ ​will​ ​not​ ​trigger​ ​properly​ ​and​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​will​ ​fail.

After ​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​is​ ​passed,​ ​the​ ​values​ ​can​ ​be​ ​reviewed​ ​for​ ​tweaking​ ​later.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​get your

​ ​axes​ ​​perpendicular​​ ​or​ ​​slightly​ ​skewed​,​ ​nothing​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​tweaked​ ​as​ ​printer​ ​will perform ​ ​with​ ​the​ ​best​ ​accuracy.​ ​Learn​ ​more​ ​in​ ​chapter​ ​​

8.3

​ ​View​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​details

(Optional)

​ ​under​ ​ ​8​ ​Advanced​ ​calibration​

.

6.3.5.1​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​e​rror​ ​messages​ ​and​ ​resolution​ ​​(kit​ ​only) 

1) XYZ

calibration failed.

Bed calibration point was not

found.

Calibration ​ ​routine​ ​did​ ​not​ ​find​ ​a​ ​bed​ ​sensor​ ​point.​ ​The​ ​printer​ ​stops​ ​close​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed point, ​ ​which​ ​it​ ​failed​ ​to​ ​detect.​ ​Please​ ​verify,​ ​that​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​assembled​ ​correctly, that ​ ​all​ ​axes​ ​move​ ​freely,​ ​the​ ​pulleys​ ​do​ ​not​ ​slip​ ​and​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​clean.​ ​If everything ​ ​looks​ ​good,​ ​re-run​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration​ ​and​ ​verify​ ​with​ ​a​ ​sheet​ ​of​ ​paper between ​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​that​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​does​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print bed ​ ​during​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​routine.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​feel​ ​a​ ​friction​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​against​ ​the​ ​sheet of ​ ​paper​ ​and​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​clean,​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​screw​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​slightly​ ​lower and ​ ​re-run​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration.

2) XYZ

calibration failed.

Please consult the

manual.

The

​ ​calibration​ ​points​ ​were​ ​found​ ​in​ ​positions​ ​far​ ​from​ ​what​ ​should​ ​be​ ​expected​ ​for​ ​a properly ​ ​assembled​ ​printer.​ ​Please​ ​follow​ ​the​ ​instructions​ ​of​ ​case​ ​1).

3) XYZ

calibration ok.

X/Y axes are perpendicular.

Congratulations!

Congratulations, ​ ​you​ ​built​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​precisely,​ ​your​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​are​ ​perpendicular.

4) XYZ

calibration all right.

X/Y axes are slightly skewed.

Good

job!

Good ​ ​job,​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​are​ ​not​ ​precisely​ ​perpendicular,​ ​but​ ​still​ ​quite​ ​all​ ​right.​ ​The firmware

​ ​will​ ​correct​ ​for​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​skew​ ​during​ ​normal​ ​printing,​ ​so​ ​boxes​ ​will​ ​be​ ​printed with ​ ​right​ ​angles.

16

5) XYZ

calibration all right.

A skew will be corrected

automatically.

You

​ ​may​ ​consider​ ​to​ ​re-align​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​axes​ ​(as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​​

6.3.5.1​ ​Y 

axis​ ​alignment​

)​.​ ​Still​ ​the​ ​firmware​ ​will​ ​correct​ ​the​ ​skew​ ​during​ ​normal​ ​printing​ ​and​ ​as

long ​ ​as​ ​the​ ​X​ ​and​ ​Y​ ​axes​ ​move​ ​freely,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​print​ ​correctly.

6) XYZ

calibration failed.

Left front calibration point not

reachable.

Even ​ ​if​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​moves​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​to​ ​the​ ​end​ ​Y​ ​end​ ​stop,​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe cannot

​ ​reach​ ​the​ ​left​ ​front​ ​bed​ ​calibration​ ​point.​ ​Move​ ​the​ ​left​ ​Y​ ​threaded​ ​rod​ ​in​ ​the​ ​Z frame ​ ​away​ ​from​ ​you,​ ​so​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​reaches​ ​the​ ​left​ ​front​ ​bed​ ​calibration​ ​point reliably.

​ ​​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​how​ ​to​ ​fix​ ​this​ ​in​ ​the​ ​next​ ​chapter​ ​​ 6.3.5.1​ ​Y​ ​axis 

alignment​

.

7) XYZ

calibration failed.

Right front calibration point not

reachable.

Even ​ ​if​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​moves​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​to​ ​the​ ​end​ ​Y​ ​end​ ​stop,​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe cannot

​ ​reach​ ​the​ ​right​ ​front​ ​bed​ ​calibration​ ​point.​ ​Move​ ​the​ ​right​ ​Y​ ​threaded​ ​rod​ ​in​ ​the

Z ​ ​frame​ ​away​ ​from​ ​you,​ ​so​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​reaches​ ​the​ ​right​ ​front​ ​bed​ ​calibration point

​ ​reliably.​ ​​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​out​ ​how​ ​to​ ​fix​ ​this​ ​in​ ​the​ ​next​ ​chapter​ ​​ 6.3.5.1​ ​Y​ ​axis 

alignment​ .

8) XYZ

calibration failed.

Front calibration points not

reachable.

Even ​ ​if​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​moves​ ​the​ ​table​ ​to​ ​the​ ​end​ ​Y​ ​end​ ​stop,​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​cannot reach ​ ​the​ ​front​ ​row​ ​of​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​calibration​ ​points.​ ​Move​ ​both​ ​left​ ​/​ ​right​ ​Y​ ​threaded rods ​ ​in​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​frame​ ​away​ ​from​ ​you.​ ​​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​out​ ​how​ ​to​ ​fix​ ​this​ ​in​ ​the​ ​next 

chapter​ ​​

6.3.5.1​ ​Y​ ​axis​ ​alignment​

.

9) XYZ

calibration compromised.

Left front calibration point not reachable.

XYZ calibration compromised.

Right front calibration point not reachable.

XYZ calibration compromised.

Front calibration points not

reachable.

Printer ​ ​will​ ​likely​ ​work,​ ​but​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​leveling​ ​may​ ​be​ ​compromised​ ​and​ ​the​ ​skew​ ​of​ ​the

X/Y

​ ​axes​ ​may​ ​not​ ​be​ ​fully​ ​corrected.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​recommended​ ​to​ ​adjust​ ​the​ ​positions​ ​of​ ​the

Y ​ ​threaded​ ​rods​ ​in​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​frame​ ​as​ ​in​ ​cases​ ​6)​ ​to​ ​8).​ ​​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​out​ ​how​ ​to​ ​fix​ ​this 

in​ ​the​ ​next​ ​chapter​ ​​

6.3.5.1​ ​Y​ ​axis​ ​alignment​

.

During

​ ​the​ ​mesh​ ​bed​ ​leveling​ ​procedure​ ​following​ ​errors​ ​may​ ​be​ ​reported​ ​on​ ​the​ ​display.

1) Bed

leveling failed.

Sensor disconnected or cable broken.

Waiting for

reset.

Verify,

​ ​whether​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​cable​ ​is​ ​plugged​ ​into​ ​the​ ​RAMBo​ ​board​ ​correctly.​ ​If it ​ ​is​ ​the​ ​case,​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​is​ ​broken​ ​and​ ​it​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​replaced.

2) Bed

leveling failed.

Sensor didn’t trigger.

Debris on nozzle?

Waiting for reset.

17

 

 

This ​ ​is​ ​a​ ​safety​ ​check​ ​to​ ​avoid​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​to​ ​crash​ ​into​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​if​ ​the​ ​PINDA sensor ​ ​stops​ ​working​ ​or​ ​something​ ​goes​ ​wrong​ ​with​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​mechanics​ ​(for example, ​ ​a​ ​pulley​ ​slips).​ ​This​ ​safety​ ​check​ ​may​ ​be​ ​triggered​ ​as​ ​well,​ ​if​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​has been ​ ​moved​ ​to​ ​an​ ​uneven​ ​surface.​ ​Before​ ​doing​ ​anything​ ​else,​ ​make​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​axis​ ​level by ​ ​going​ ​all​ ​the​ ​way​ ​up​ ​and​ ​try​ ​again.

At ​ ​the​ ​end​ ​of​ ​the​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​measures​ ​the​ ​reference​ ​height​ ​above each

​ ​of​ ​the​ ​9​ ​bed​ ​sensor​ ​points​ ​and​ ​stores​ ​the​ ​reference​ ​heights​ ​into​ ​a​ ​non-volatile memory.

​ ​During​ ​the​ ​normal​ ​bed​ ​leveling,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​expected​ ​that​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​triggers not

​ ​further​ ​than​ ​1​ ​mm​ ​from​ ​the​ ​reference​ ​value,​ ​therefore​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​not​ ​allowed​ ​to move ​ ​more​ ​than​ ​1​ ​mm​ ​below​ ​the​ ​reference​ ​value​ ​during​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​calibration.

If ​ ​you​ ​moved​ ​the​ ​printer,​ ​you​ ​may​ ​need​ ​to​ ​re-run​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​to​ ​sample​ ​new reference

​ ​Z​ ​height​ ​values​ ​reflecting​ ​the​ ​twist​ ​and​ ​bend​ ​of​ ​the​ ​table​ ​surface​ ​the​ ​printer is ​ ​sitting​ ​on.​ ​If​ ​that​ ​does​ ​not​ ​help,​ ​please​ ​verify,​ ​that​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​is​ ​aligned​ ​with the

​ ​sensor​ ​points​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​during​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​Z​ ​calibration.​ ​The​ ​alignment​ ​shall be ​ ​ensured​ ​by​ ​the​ ​automatic​ ​X/Y​ ​calibration​ ​routine.​ ​If​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​is​ ​no​ ​more aligned

​ ​during​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​over​ ​time,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​possible,​ ​that​ ​a​ ​pulley​ ​is​ ​slipping​ ​or something ​ ​on​ ​the​ ​machine​ ​frame​ ​got​ ​loose.

3) Bed

leveling failed.

Sensor triggered too high.

Waiting for

reset.

Similar ​ ​to​ ​case​ ​2).​ ​This​ ​time​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​sensor​ ​triggered​ ​more​ ​than​ ​1​ ​mm​ ​above​ ​the reference ​ ​height.​ ​Before​ ​doing​ ​anything​ ​else,​ ​make​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​axis​ ​level​ ​by​ ​going​ ​all​ ​the way ​ ​up​ ​and​ ​try​ ​again.

 

18

6.3.5.1​ ​Y​ ​axis​ ​alignment​ ​(kit​ ​only) 

For ​ ​autocalibration​ ​to​ ​work​ ​properly,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​extremely​ ​important​ ​for​ ​the​ ​Y​ ​axis​ ​to​ ​be perpendicular ​ ​to​ ​the​ ​X​ ​axis.​ ​This​ ​can​ ​be​ ​easily​ ​checked​ ​by​ ​looking​ ​at​ ​the​ ​printer from ​ ​the​ ​top​ ​and​ ​visually​ ​aligning​ ​the​ ​X-axis​ ​rods​ ​with​ ​lines​ ​on​ ​the​ ​heatbed.​ ​If​ ​the​ ​Y axis

​ ​is​ ​misaligned,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​easily​ ​adjust​ ​the​ ​position​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Y​ ​axis​ ​inside​ ​the​ ​frame by ​ ​loosening​ ​the​ ​​M10​ ​nuts​​ ​on​ ​the​ ​Y​ ​axis​ ​and​ ​securing​ ​them​ ​at​ ​the​ ​newly​ ​adjusted​ ​position.

You ​ ​can​ ​see​ ​how​ ​in​ ​the​ ​​Assembly​ ​Manual​ ​7.PSU/Step​ ​20​​ ​(Check​ ​if​ ​everything​ ​is​ ​correct​ ​) or ​ ​in​ ​P.I.N.D.A.​ ​Probe​ ​Misaligned​ ​topic​ ​at​ ​​ help.prusa3d.com

.

Pic.

4 X-axis rods must be visually aligned with lines on the

heatbed.

If ​ ​the​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​gives​ ​“​XYZ

calibration compromised.

Front calibration points not reachable.

” ​ ​error,​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​necessarily​ ​need​ ​to​ ​adjust​ ​the​ ​M10​ ​nuts​ ​and​ ​position​ ​of​ ​the​ ​axis in ​ ​the​ ​frame,​ ​but​ ​you​ ​can​ ​adjust​ ​the​ ​belt​ ​holder​ ​position.​ ​​Y-belt-holder​ ​with​ ​a​ ​slot​ ​allows​ ​to

make

​ ​a​ ​1​ ​mm​ ​adjustment​ ​to​ ​both​ ​the​ ​front​ ​and​ ​the​ ​back.​​ ​Loosen​ ​the​ ​Y​ ​belt​ ​holder screws, ​ ​push​ ​the​ ​belt​ ​holder​ ​part​ ​towards​ ​the​ ​Y​ ​motor​ ​and​ ​retighten​ ​the​ ​screws.

6.3.6​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z 

Calibrate

​ ​Z​​ ​is​ ​located​ ​in​ ​​Calibration​​ ​menu.​ ​It​ ​should​ ​be​ ​performed​ ​whenever​ ​you​ ​move​ ​the printer ​ ​to​ ​different​ ​location.​ ​It​ ​saves​ ​the​ ​heights​ ​of​ ​all​ ​9​ ​calibration​ ​points​ ​in​ ​non-volatile memory.

​ ​Stored​ ​information​ ​is​ ​used​ ​every​ ​time​ ​mesh​ ​bed​ ​levelling​ ​is​ ​called​ ​during​ ​a​ ​print.

When ​ ​the​ ​measured​ ​values​ ​are​ ​vastly​ ​different​ ​to​ ​the​ ​stored​ ​value,​ ​print​ ​is​ ​canceled​ ​as​ ​it​ ​is​ ​a good ​ ​indicator​ ​something​ ​is​ ​wrong.​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​is​ ​a​ ​part​ ​of​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​routine​ ​so​ ​there’s no ​ ​need​ ​to​ ​run​ ​it​ ​after​ ​successful​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ.

It ​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​practice​ ​to​ ​run​ ​this​ ​procedure​ ​every​ ​time​ ​you​ ​travel​ ​or​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​shipped​ ​as​ ​the geometry ​ ​might​ ​change​ ​slightly​ ​and​ ​cause​ ​an​ ​error.

At ​ ​the​ ​start​ ​of​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​procedure​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​prompts​ ​you​ ​by​ ​a​ ​following​ ​message:

"Calibrating Z.

Move Z carriage up to the end stoppers.

Click when done.”

After ​ ​that,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​asks​ ​you​ ​to​ ​confirm​ ​this​ ​step:​ ​​"Are

left and right Z carriages all up?"

19

Please ​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​you​ ​really​ ​move​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​carriage​ ​up​ ​to​ ​the​ ​end​ ​stoppers​ ​until​ ​you​ ​hear​ ​a rattling ​ ​sound​ ​as​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​stepper​ ​motors​ ​skip​ ​steps.​ ​This​ ​procedure​ ​ensures,​ ​that​ ​1)​ ​the​ ​X​ ​axis is ​ ​perfectly​ ​horizontal,​ ​2)​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​in​ ​a​ ​known​ ​distance​ ​from​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed.​ ​In​ ​case the ​ ​Z​ ​carriage​ ​did​ ​​not​ ​​touch​ ​the​ ​end​ ​stoppers,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​could​ ​not​ ​possibly​ ​know​ ​the​ ​height of ​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle​ ​above​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​it​ ​could​ ​therefore​ ​crash​ ​into​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​during the

​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​procedure.

The

​ ​Z​ ​calibration​ ​procedure​ ​also​ ​prompts​ ​you​ ​to​ ​​"Please

clean the nozzle for calibration.

Click when done."

If ​ ​this​ ​advice​ ​is​ ​not​ ​followed​ ​and​ ​there​ ​is​ ​a​ ​plastic​ ​debris​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​nozzle,​ ​then​ ​the​ ​debris may

​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​or​ ​even​ ​push​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed​ ​away​ ​from​ ​the​ ​PINDA​ ​probe,​ ​so​ ​the

PINDA ​ ​probe​ ​will​ ​not​ ​trigger​ ​properly​ ​and​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​will​ ​fail.

6.3.7​ ​Mesh​ ​bed​ ​levelling 

Mesh

​ ​bed​ ​levelling​​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​in​ ​​Calibration​​ ​menu.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​the​ ​same​ ​procedure​ ​which​ ​is performed ​ ​before​ ​every​ ​print.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​use​ ​it​ ​to​ ​check​ ​the​ ​P.I.N.D.A.​ ​probe​ ​alignment​ ​with the

​ ​calibration​ ​points​ ​however​ ​it​ ​is​ ​not​ ​necessary​ ​during​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​process​ ​as​ ​Mesh​ ​bed leveling ​ ​is​ ​a​ ​part​ ​of​ ​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​ ​and​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​routines.

Before

​ ​running​ ​this​ ​command​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​tip​ ​from​ ​any​ ​debris​ ​and​ ​run​ ​it​ ​while​ ​the

nozzle

​ ​is​ ​cold.​ ​If​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​is​ ​misaligned​ ​and​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​preheated,​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​can

make

​ ​permanent​ ​impressions​ ​in​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.

 

 

Pict.

5 The probe must be inside the circles (1st and 9th calibration point) to successfully level the bed

.

 

20

6.3.8​ ​Loading​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder 

● You ​ ​need​ ​to​ ​​preheat​​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​before​ ​inserting​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​(and​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​too​ ​if​ ​you like ​ ​to​ ​​print​​ ​right​ ​away).​ ​The​ ​temperature​ ​depends​ ​on​ ​the​ ​​material​​ ​used.​ ​Detailed information

​ ​about​ ​​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​bed​ ​temperatures​ ​are​ ​described​ ​at​ ​chapter​ ​​ 11

Materials

.

● Press ​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​to​ ​enter​ ​the​ ​main​ ​menu​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD.​ ​Rotate​ ​the​ ​button​ ​to​ ​choose

Preheat

​​ ​​option​ ​and​ ​confirm​ ​by​ ​pressing​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob.​ ​Next​ ​you​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​​material you ​ ​will​ ​​print​​ ​from.​ ​Choose​ ​a​ ​​material​​ ​then​ ​confirm​ ​with​ ​LCD-knob.​ ​The​ ​nozzle​ ​and heatbed ​​ ​will​ ​heat​ ​to​ ​the​ ​requested​ ​temperature.

● Press

​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel​ ​to​ ​enter​ ​the​ ​main​ ​menu.​ ​Insert​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​to the ​ ​extruder,​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​​Load​​ ​​filament​​ ​​option​ ​in​ ​the​ ​menu​ ​and​ ​press​ ​the​ ​button​ ​to confirm.

​ ​Filament​ ​is​ ​then​ ​loaded​ ​to​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​by​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​stepper automatically.

​ ​You​ ​should​ ​​cut​​ ​the​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​as​ ​shown​ ​in​ ​the​ ​picture​ ​below

(p

​ict​.6​ ​-​ ​detail).

Pict.

6 Loading the filament to the extruder

● Check ​ ​if​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​is​ ​flowing​ ​from​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​.

● If ​ ​you​ ​change​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​for​ ​a​ ​new​ ​one​ ​do​ ​not​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​completely​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​old filament ​​ ​before​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​by​ ​extruding​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​from​ ​​Settings​ ​-​ ​Move​ ​axis​ ​-

Extruder

​ ​​until​ ​the​ ​color​ ​is​ ​completely​ ​changed.

If ​ ​your​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​running​ ​out​ ​during​ ​a​ ​print,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​easily​ ​change​ ​it​ ​for​ ​a​ ​new​ ​spool.​ ​Just​ ​go to ​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu,​ ​select​ ​​Tweak​​ ​submenu​ ​and​ ​press​ ​​Change​ ​filament​.​ ​Printer​ ​will​ ​pause,​ ​go out

​ ​of​ ​the​ ​print​ ​area,​ ​unload​ ​the​ ​old​ ​filament​ ​and​ ​guide​ ​you​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​what​ ​to​ ​do.​ ​You​ ​can even ​ ​insert​ ​filament​ ​of​ ​different​ ​color​ ​and​ ​make​ ​your​ ​prints​ ​more​ ​colorful.​ ​Check​ ​out​ ​chapter

9.5

​ ​Printing​ ​in​ ​color​ ​with​ ​ColorPrint​

​ ​to​ ​find​ ​out​ ​how​ ​to​ ​make​ ​more​ ​intricate​ ​color​ ​models.

21

6.3.8.1​ ​Unloading​ ​the​ ​filament 

Similar ​ ​procedure​ ​to​ ​the​ ​loading​ ​operation.​ ​​Preheat​​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​for​ ​material​ ​you​ ​used​ ​last time ​ ​(pre​ ​assembled​ ​printers​ ​are​ ​shipped​ ​with​ ​PLA).​ ​Wait​ ​for​ ​temperatures​ ​to​ ​stabilize​ ​and use ​ ​​Unload​ ​filament​ ​​option​ ​from​ ​the​ ​menu.

6.3.9​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​ ​​

(kit​ ​only)

 

NOTE: The calibration process has been made easier and is now called V2 Calibration.

If the

V2Calibration.gcode

is not present on your SD card you can easily obtain it from our support or on our http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/ page.

Check

​ ​if​ ​your​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean!​ ​​You​ ​can​ ​find​ ​instructions​ ​how​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​it​ ​in the

​ ​chapter​ ​​

6.3.2

​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​preparation​

.

​ ​Don't​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​complete​ ​​

6.3.5

Calibrate ​ ​XYZ​ ​ ​chapter​ ​or​ ​​

you

​ ​can​ ​permanently​ ​damage​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface​!

Now ​ ​we​ ​will​ ​finally​ ​calibrate​ ​the​ ​distance​ ​between​ ​tip​ ​of​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​the​ ​probe.​ ​Preheat the ​ ​nozzle​ ​for​ ​PLA.​ ​On​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu,​ ​go​ ​to​ ​​Print​ ​from​ ​SD​​ ​and​ ​run​ ​​V2calibration.gcode file ​ ​from​ ​the​ ​​bundled​ ​SD​ ​card​.

The ​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​probe​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​start​ ​printing​ ​zig​ ​zag​ ​pattern​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.​ ​The nozzle

​ ​will​ ​be​ ​at​ ​the​ ​height​ ​based​ ​on​ ​the​ ​P.I.N.D.A​ ​probe​ ​setting,​ ​it​ ​must​ ​not​ ​by​ ​any​ ​means touch ​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.

Pict.

7 How to tune the nozzle height live during the test print.

Note: -0.640

mm is only for illustration.

Your setting will be different!

22

Observe ​ ​the​ ​line​ ​which​ ​is​ ​being​ ​extruded​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.​ ​Go​ ​to​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu​ ​and choose ​ ​the​ ​​Live​ ​adjust​ ​Z​​ ​option.​ ​A​ ​new​ ​menu​ ​will​ ​show​ ​up​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​tune​ ​the​ ​nozzle height ​ ​live​ ​during​ ​the​ ​test​ ​print.​ ​The​ ​point​ ​is​ ​to​ ​lower​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​until​ ​the​ ​extruded​ ​plastic sticks ​ ​nicely​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​and​ ​you​ ​can​ ​see​ ​it​ ​is​ ​being​ ​slightly​ ​squished.​ ​Set​ ​value​ ​should​ ​not exceed

​ ​​ ​-1​ ​mm,​ ​​if​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​adjust​ ​it​ ​more,​ ​move​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​slightly​ ​higher.​ ​​Loosen the ​ ​two​ ​screws​ ​on​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​holder​ ​to​ ​make​ ​adjustments.​ ​​By​ ​rotating​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​counter

clockwise,

​ ​it​ ​will​ ​raise​ ​at​ ​1mm​ ​per​ ​turn.​​ ​It​ ​is​ ​very​ ​handy​ ​for​ ​precise​ ​adjustments,​ ​but​ ​it​ ​can also ​ ​be​ ​pushed​ ​in​ ​and​ ​out​ ​when​ ​set​ ​screws​ ​are​ ​loosened​ ​completely.​​ ​​Then​ ​rerun​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z followed

​ ​by​ ​the​ ​V2Calibration.gcode​ ​again.

Pict.

8 The properly tuned first

layer

6.3.9.1

​ ​Bed​ ​level​ ​correction​​ ​(kit​ ​only)

A ​ ​bed​ ​level​ ​correction​ ​is​ ​an​ ​advanced​ ​feature​ ​introduced​ ​in​ ​the​ ​firmware​ ​3.0.6​ ​and​ ​is designed ​ ​to​ ​allow​ ​advanced​ ​users​ ​to​ ​correct​ ​for​ ​the​ ​slightest​ ​imperfections​ ​in​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer.

This ​ ​feature​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​in​ ​​Calibration​ ​​-​ ​​Bed​ ​level​ ​correction.​​ ​For​ ​example​ ​if​ ​the​ ​first layer ​ ​seems​ ​to​ ​be​ ​ever​ ​so​ ​slightly​ ​more​ ​squished​ ​on​ ​the​ ​right​ ​side,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​virtually​ ​raise​ ​the nozzle ​ ​by​ ​​+20​​ ​microns​ ​on​ ​the​ ​right​ ​side.​ ​Settings​ ​are​ ​available​ ​for​ ​Left,​ ​Right,​ ​Front​ ​and

Back.

​ ​The​ ​limit​ ​is​ ​+-50​ ​microns​ ​and​ ​even​ ​+-20​ ​microns​ ​can​ ​make​ ​a​ ​huge​ ​difference.​ ​When you ​ ​are​ ​using​ ​this​ ​function,​ ​do​ ​small​ ​incremental​ ​changes.​ ​Negative​ ​value​ ​will​ ​act​ ​as lowering

​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​in​ ​the​ ​selected​ ​direction.

6.3.10​ ​Fine-tuning​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer 

6.3.10.1​ ​Print​ ​prusa​ ​logo 

After ​ ​finishing​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​gcode,​ ​it​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​idea​ ​to​ ​print​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​object.​ ​The​ ​Prusa gcode ​ ​from​ ​the​ ​supplied​ ​SD​ ​card​ ​is​ ​a​ ​great​ ​example.​ ​The​ ​​Live​ ​adjust​ ​Z​​ ​function​ ​(described in

​ ​​ 6.3.9.

​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​ )

​ ​works​ ​during​ ​every​ ​print,​ ​so​ ​you​ ​can​ ​finetune​ ​at​ ​any​ ​point.

You ​ ​can​ ​see​ ​the​ ​properly​ ​tuned​ ​first​ ​layer​ ​on​ ​the​ ​images​ ​below.

Calibration ​ ​might​ ​be​ ​slightly​ ​different​ ​for​ ​multiple​ ​materials.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​practice​ ​to check ​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer​ ​and​ ​adjust​ ​accordingly​ ​with​ ​​Live​ ​adjust​ ​Z​​ ​when​ ​switching between

​ ​different​ ​types​ ​of​ ​filament.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​also​ ​try​ ​experimental​ ​feature​ ​​ 8.2

​ ​PINDA probe ​ ​calibration/​ ​Temp.​ ​calibration​ .

23

Pict.

9 Perfect Prusa logo first layer

6.3.10.2

​ ​Check​ ​probe​ ​height​​ ​(kit​ ​only) 

If ​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer​ ​seems​ ​inconsistent​ ​between​ ​multiple​ ​prints,​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​might​ ​be too ​ ​high.​ ​Lower​ ​it​ ​slightly.​ ​Loosen​ ​the​ ​two​ ​screws​ ​on​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​holder​ ​to​ ​make adjustments.

​ ​​By​ ​rotating​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​clockwise,​ ​it​ ​will​ ​lower​ ​at​ ​1mm​ ​per​ ​turn.​​ ​It is ​ ​very​ ​handy​ ​for​ ​precise​ ​adjustments,​ ​but​ ​it​ ​can​ ​also​ ​be​ ​pushed​ ​in​ ​and​ ​out​ ​when​ ​set​ ​screws are

​ ​loosened​ ​completely.​ ​Then​ ​try​ ​again​ ​​Calibrate​ ​XYZ​.​ ​Keep​ ​in​ ​mind,​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​must​ ​be always ​ ​higher​ ​than​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​tip,​ ​otherwise​ ​it​ ​will​ ​catch​ ​on​ ​prints.

 

 

 

Pict.

10 Probe response

diagram.

Now

​ ​you​ ​are​ ​done!

24

7​ ​Printing 

● Make ​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​are​ ​heated​ ​to​ ​the​ ​desired​ ​temperature.​ ​If​ ​you forget ​ ​to​ ​​preheat​​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​before​ ​​printing,​​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​will automatically

​ ​check​ ​the​ ​temperatures​ ​of​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​bed;​ ​​printing​​ ​will​ ​start when ​ ​desired​ ​temperature​ ​is​ ​reached​ ​-​ ​it​ ​can​ ​take​ ​several​ ​minutes.​ ​However,​ ​we recommend ​ ​preheating​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​beforehand​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​​ 6.3.8

Loading ​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder​ .

Do

​ ​not​ ​let​ ​the​ ​preheated​ ​printer​ ​idle.​ ​When​ ​a​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​preheated​ ​and​ ​non-printing material ​ ​in​ ​an​ ​extruder​ ​degrades​ ​over​ ​time​ ​-​ ​it​ ​may​ ​cause​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​to​ ​jam​ ​up.

● Watch

​ ​the​ ​first​ ​few​ ​printed​ ​layers​ ​to​ ​be​ ​sure​ ​​filament​​ ​has​ ​attached​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed

properly

​​ ​(5​ ​to​ ​10​ ​minutes).

● Press

​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​and​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​​Print​​ ​from​ ​SD​ ​​option​ ​from​ ​menu,​ ​press​ ​to confirm ​ ​and​ ​pick​ ​the​ ​desired​ ​​model​​ ​​model_name.gcode​.​ ​Printer​ ​will​ ​start​ ​​printing​​ ​the object.

The

​ ​​filename​ ​(.gcode)​ ​must​ ​not​ ​contain​ ​any​ ​special​ ​characters​​ ​otherwise​ ​the printer ​​ ​is​ ​not​ ​able​ ​to​ ​display​ ​the​ ​file​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​while​ ​printing, printer ​ ​will​ ​pause​ ​automatically.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​reinsert​ ​the​ ​SD,​ ​press​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​and choose ​ ​“Continue”​ ​option.​ ​Confirm​ ​and​ ​printing​ ​will​ ​resume.

7.1​ ​Removing​ ​objects​ ​from​ ​the​ ​printer. 

● When ​ ​printing​ ​is​ ​finished​ ​let​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​heatbed​ ​cool​ ​down​ ​before​ ​removing​ ​the printed

​ ​object.​ ​Always​ ​handle​ ​the​ ​printed​ ​objects​ ​when​ ​temperature​ ​of​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​and nozzle ​ ​drop​ ​to​ ​the​ ​room​ ​temperature,​ ​when​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​is​ ​hot​ ​objects​ ​are​ ​very​ ​hard​ ​to remove.

​ ​Pull​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​towards​ ​you​ ​and​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​object​ ​gently.

● If ​ ​you​ ​experience​ ​any​ ​troubles​ ​removing​ ​the​ ​object​ ​(especially​ ​the​ ​small​ ​ones)​ ​you can

​ ​use​ ​a​ ​flat​ ​tool​ ​like​ ​a​ ​spatula​ ​​with​ ​rounded​ ​corners​ ​​to​ ​prevent​ ​damage​ ​of​ ​PEI​.

Slide ​ ​the​ ​spatula​ ​under​ ​the​ ​corner​ ​of​ ​the​ ​object​ ​and​ ​gently​ ​push,​ ​until​ ​the​ ​print​ ​pops of.

Pict.

11 Removing the model from PEI print surface with spatula

25

If ​ ​your​ ​prints​ ​are​ ​stuck​ ​too​ ​well​ ​and​ ​don’t​ ​want​ ​to​ ​separate,​ ​try​ ​using​ ​a​ ​​dental​ ​floss​.​ ​Slide​ ​a dental ​ ​floss​ ​under​ ​the​ ​corner​ ​of​ ​the​ ​object​ ​which​ ​you​ ​previously​ ​separated​ ​by​ ​the​ ​spatula​ ​a​ ​in

saw

​ ​like​ ​motion​​ ​gently​ ​separate​ ​the​ ​object​ ​from​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.​ ​Dental​ ​floss​ ​is​ ​generally covered ​ ​in​ ​wax​ ​so​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​​cleaned​ ​thoroughly​​ ​before​ ​a​ ​next​ ​print.

7.2​ ​Printer​ ​Control 

There

​ ​are​ ​two​ ​ways​ ​controlling​ ​the​ ​​printer​.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​use​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel​ ​integrated​ ​with​ ​the printer ​​ ​or​ ​you​ ​can​ ​​connect​​ ​your​ ​computer​ ​with​ ​USB​ ​cable.​ ​We​ ​suggest​ ​the​ ​​LCD​ ​panel because ​ ​of​ ​its​ ​​speed​​ ​and​ ​reliability,​ ​and​ ​moreover​ ​you​ ​do​ ​not​ ​rely​ ​on​ ​a​ ​computer.

7.2.1​ ​LCD​ ​screen 

● Main

​ ​screen​ ​is​ ​an​ ​​information​ ​screen​ ​​displaying​ ​the​ ​most​ ​important​ ​details.​ ​These are ​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​of​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​the​ ​​heatbed​​ ​(1,​ ​2),​ ​​printing​​ ​time​ ​(3)​ ​and​ ​the actual ​ ​Z-axis​ ​position​ ​(5).

Pict.

12 LCD layout

1. Nozzle

​ ​temperature​ ​(actual​ ​/​ ​desired​ ​temperature)

2. Heatbed ​ ​temperature​ ​(actual​ ​/​ ​desired​ ​temperature)

3. Progress ​ ​of​ ​​printing​​ ​in​ ​%​ ​-​ ​shown​ ​only​ ​during​ ​the​ ​​printing

4. Status

​ ​bar​ ​(Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2​ ​ready​ ​/​ ​​Heating​​ ​/​ ​model_name.gcode,​ ​etc.)

5. Z-axis ​​ ​position

6. Printing

​ ​​speed

7. Elapsed ​ ​​printing​​ ​time​ ​-​ ​shown​ ​only​ ​when​ ​​printing

7.2.2​ ​Print​ ​statistics 

The

​ ​printer​ ​tracks​ ​printing​ ​statistics.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​access​ ​this​ ​option​ ​during​ ​a​ ​print,​ ​you​ ​will​ ​see statistics ​ ​for​ ​the​ ​running​ ​print.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​do​ ​so​ ​while​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​idle,​ ​you​ ​will​ ​see​ ​the​ ​lifetime statistics.

​ ​Both​ ​filament​ ​usage​ ​and​ ​print​ ​time​ ​is​ ​being​ ​tracked.

26

Pict.

13 Print

statistics

7.2.2​ ​Silent​ ​vs.​ ​Hi-power​ ​mode 

The

​ ​printer​ ​offers​ ​two​ ​settings​ ​for​ ​motor​ ​power​ ​consumption.​ ​Silent​ ​uses​ ​less​ ​current​ ​and makes ​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​quieter,​ ​but​ ​less​ ​powerful.​ ​Hi-power​ ​is​ ​great​ ​for​ ​very​ ​large​ ​(over​ ​200​ ​gram) prints

​ ​and​ ​for​ ​freshly​ ​assembled​ ​kits​ ​before​ ​you​ ​fine​ ​tune​ ​everything.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​experience​ ​lost steps ​ ​(shifted​ ​layers)​ ​or​ ​if​ ​you’re​ ​manually​ ​adjusting​ ​speed​ ​of​ ​printing​ ​to​ ​more​ ​than​ ​100%, use

​ ​Hi-power​ ​mode.

7.2.3​ ​Factory​ ​reset 

The ​ ​factory​ ​reset​ ​is​ ​used​ ​when​ ​troubleshooting​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​resetting​ ​it​ ​to​ ​the​ ​factory state.

Entering

​ ​the​ ​factory​ ​reset​ ​menu:

1. Press ​ ​and​ ​release​ ​the​ ​reset​ ​button​​ ​(marked​ ​X​ ​and​ ​positioned​ ​under​ ​the​ ​control knob

​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel)

2. Press ​ ​and​ ​hold​ ​the​ ​control​ ​knob​​ ​until​ ​you​ ​hear​ ​a​ ​beep

3. Release

​ ​the​ ​control​ ​knob

Options:

● Language ​​ ​option​ ​resets​ ​the​ ​language​ ​preference.

● Statistics

​ ​​will​ ​erase​ ​all​ ​the​ ​recorded​ ​print​ ​time​ ​and​ ​material​ ​from​ ​the​ ​memory.

● Shipping ​ ​prep​​ ​which​ ​resets​ ​only​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​language​ ​selection.​ ​All​ ​the​ ​calibration data

​ ​including​ ​the​ ​Live​ ​adjust​ ​Z​ ​remain​ ​intact.​ ​Even​ ​though​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​data​ ​are still ​ ​present​ ​and​ ​functional,​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​prompt​ ​user​ ​once​ ​to​ ​run​ ​the​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z function.

​ ​This​ ​light​ ​factory​ ​reset​ ​is​ ​mainly​ ​used​ ​for​ ​resetting​ ​of​ ​assembled​ ​printers before ​ ​shipping​ ​out​ ​of​ ​the​ ​factory,​ ​and​ ​users​ ​are​ ​expected​ ​to​ ​select​ ​their​ ​language and

​ ​run​ ​Calibrate​ ​Z​ ​after​ ​unpacking.

● All ​ ​data​​ ​which​ ​resets​ ​everything​ ​including​ ​all​ ​calibration​ ​data​ ​and​ ​whole​ ​EEPROM​ ​is cleaned.

​ ​After​ ​this​ ​reset,​ ​user​ ​is​ ​expected​ ​to​ ​go​ ​through​ ​the​ ​calibration​ ​flow​ ​again, except ​ ​setting​ ​the​ ​probe​ ​height.

If ​ ​you​ ​experience​ ​random​ ​glitches​ ​after​ ​firmware​ ​update​ ​or​ ​after​ ​printer​ ​upgrade,​ ​use​ ​the​ ​​All

data

​​ ​option.

27

7.2.4​ ​LCD​ ​layout 

Items

​​ ​not​ ​mentioned​ ​below​ ​are​ ​not​ ​used​ ​for​ ​the​ ​common​ ​​print​​ ​setup​ ​-​ ​you​ ​should​ ​not change ​ ​any​ ​of​ ​the​ ​unmentioned​ ​​items​​ ​unless​ ​you​ ​are​ ​absolutely​ ​sure​ ​what​ ​you​ ​are doing.

❏

Info

​ ​screen

❏

Live ​ ​adjust​ ​Z​ ​​ (during ​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​process​ ​only)

❏

Tune ​ ​​ (during ​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​process​ ​only)

❏ Speed

❏

Nozzle

❏

Bed

❏

Fan ​ ​​speed

❏ Flow

❏

Change ​ ​​filament

❏

Mode

❏ Pause

​ ​​print​​ ​​

(during

​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​process​ ​only)

❏

Stop

​ ​​print​​ ​​

(during

​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​process​ ​only)

❏

Preheat

❏

ABS ​ ​-​ ​255/100

❏ PLA

​ ​-​ ​215/55

❏

PET ​ ​-​ ​240/90

❏

HIPS ​ ​-​ ​220/100

❏

PP ​ ​-​ ​254/100

❏ FLEX

​ ​-​ ​230/50

❏

Cooldown

❏

Print ​ ​from​ ​SD

❏ Load

​ ​​filament

❏

Unload ​ ​​filament

❏

Settings

❏

Temperature

❏ Nozzle

❏

Bed

❏

Fan ​ ​speed

❏

Move ​ ​axis

❏ Move

​ ​X

❏

Move ​ ​Y

28

 

 

❏

Move ​ ​Z

❏

Extruder

❏

Disable ​ ​steppers

❏ Mode

​ ​-​ ​Hi​ ​power​ ​/​ ​Silent

❏

Live ​ ​adjust​ ​Z

❏

Select ​ ​language

❏ SD

​ ​card​ ​-​ ​Normal​ ​/​ ​FlashAir

❏

Calibration

❏

Selftest

❏

❏

❏

❏

Calibrate ​ ​XYZ

Calibrate

​ ​Z

Mesh ​ ​Bed​ ​Leveling

Auto

​ ​home

❏

Bed ​ ​level​ ​correction

❏

Temperature

​ ​Calibration

❏

PID ​ ​Calibration

❏

Show

​ ​end​ ​stops

❏

Reset ​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration

❏

Statistics

❏ Support

❏

Firmware ​ ​version

❏

XYZ ​ ​calibration​ ​detail

 

29

7.2.5​ ​Print​ ​speed​ ​versus​ ​print​ ​quality 

.

Printing ​ ​a​ ​small​ ​object​ ​takes​ ​a​ ​few​ ​minutes,​ ​but​ ​printing​ ​larger​ ​models​ ​is​ ​time​ ​consuming​ ​- there

​ ​are​ ​prints​ ​taking​ ​tens​ ​of​ ​hours.​ ​The​ ​overall​ ​printing​ ​time​ ​can​ ​be​ ​changed​ ​in​ ​different ways.

​ ​First​ ​way​ ​to​ ​alter​ ​the​ ​printing​ ​speed​ ​is​ ​changing​ ​layer​ ​height​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​-​ ​upper​ ​right windows ​ ​shows​ ​Print​ ​settings​ ​option.​ ​Default​ ​setting​ ​is​ ​0.20​ ​mm​ ​(NORMAL),​ ​you​ ​can​ ​speed up ​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​by​ ​choosing​ ​the​ ​0.35​ ​mm​ ​(FAST)​ ​option.​ ​Raising​ ​speed​ ​will​ ​result​ ​the​ ​model​ ​to be

​ ​less​ ​detailed​ ​with​ ​visible​ ​layer​ ​borders.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​prefer​ ​quality​ ​over​ ​speed,​ ​choose​ ​0.10​ ​mm

(DETAIL) ​ ​option.​ ​Printing​ ​time​ ​will​ ​double​ ​but​ ​the​ ​model​ ​gets​ ​the​ ​extra​ ​detail.​ ​Again,​ ​higher printing ​ ​speed​ ​results​ ​in​ ​less​ ​detailed​ ​model

Pict.

14 Print quality vs print

time

Speed ​ ​can​ ​be​ ​changed​ ​also​ ​while​ ​printing.​ ​LCD​ ​shows​ ​the​ ​FR​ ​100​ ​%​ ​item​ ​-​ ​it’s​ ​actual​ ​print speed

​ ​(feed​ ​rate).​ ​By​ ​turning​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​clockwise​ ​you​ ​can​ ​increase​ ​the​ ​print​ ​speed​ ​up​ ​to

999 ​ ​%.​ ​However,​ ​we​ ​do​ ​not​ ​advise​ ​to​ ​increase​ ​the​ ​speed​ ​over​ ​200​ ​%.​ ​Watch​ ​the​ ​results​ ​of increased ​ ​speed​ ​on​ ​the​ ​printed​ ​model​ ​and​ ​adjust​ ​the​ ​speed​ ​eventually. issue.

When ​ ​increasing​ ​the​ ​speed​ ​always​ ​check​ ​the​ ​model​ ​is​ ​cooled​ ​properly​ ​-​ ​especially when

​ ​printing​ ​small​ ​object​ ​from​ ​ABS​ ​increased​ ​speed​ ​causes​ ​the​ ​distortion

(sometimes ​ ​called​ ​“warping”)​ ​of​ ​the​ ​model.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​prevent​ ​this​ ​issue​ ​by​ ​printing more ​ ​similar​ ​objects​ ​together​ ​-​ ​layer​ ​printing​ ​interval​ ​is​ ​long​ ​enough​ ​to​ ​prevent​ ​this

If

​ ​the​ ​model​ ​shows​ ​lower​ ​quality​ ​than​ ​desired​ ​you​ ​can​ ​decrease​ ​the​ ​printing​ ​speed​ ​-​ ​turn​ ​the

LCD-knob ​ ​counterclockwise.​ ​Minimum​ ​usable​ ​printing​ ​speed​ ​is​ ​around​ ​20​ ​%​ ​of​ ​nominal speed.

7.2.6​ ​USB​ ​cable​ ​and​ ​Pronterface 

We ​ ​strongly​ ​recommend​ ​to​ ​use​ ​LCD​ ​panel​ ​while​ ​printing​ ​on​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2S​ ​-

Pronterface ​ ​doesn’t​ ​support​ ​all​ ​functions​ ​of​ ​a​ ​new​ ​firmware​ ​(e.g.​ ​filament​ ​change while

​ ​printing).

Keep ​ ​in​ ​mind​ ​that​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​the​ ​Pronterface​ ​the​ ​​computer​ ​must​ ​be​ ​connected​ ​to

the

​ ​​printer​​ ​during​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​​printing​​ ​process​ ​​-​ ​computer​ ​must​ ​be​ ​prevented​ ​from​ ​sleep, hibernation

​ ​or​ ​shutting​ ​down.​ ​Disconnecting​ ​the​ ​computer​ ​during​ ​the​ ​​print​​ ​ends​ ​the​ ​​printing without ​ ​the​ ​option​ ​to​ ​finish​ ​the​ ​object.

30

● Connect ​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​to​ ​the​ ​computer​ ​with​ ​the​ ​USB​ ​cable.

Pict.

15 You can find USB port here

● Choose

​ ​connection​ ​port​ ​in​ ​Pronterface​ ​(download​ ​available​ ​with​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​drivers, see

​ ​the​ ​chapter​ ​​

9

​ ​Printer​ ​drivers​

):

​ ​Mac​ ​users​ ​use​ ​​/usbmodem ​ ​port,​ ​PC​ ​Windows ports ​ ​are​ ​COM1,​ ​COM2,​ ​etc.;​ ​the​ ​correct​ ​port​ ​is​ ​displayed​ ​in​ ​device​ ​manager,​ ​Linux users ​ ​​connect​​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​using​ ​the​ ​virtual​ ​serial​ ​port.​ ​When​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​is​ ​connected click

​ ​the​ ​​Connect​​ ​​button.​ ​Right​ ​column​ ​shows​ ​the​ ​connection​ ​information.

● Next ​ ​step​ ​is​ ​​loading​​ ​the​ ​​model​​ ​with​ ​​Load​​ ​​model​​ ​​button​ ​and​ ​choosing​ ​the

model_name.gcode

​ ​​(no​ ​special​ ​symbols​ ​in​ ​file​ ​name).

● You ​ ​can​ ​control​ ​the​ ​movement​ ​of​ ​all​ ​​printer​​ ​axes​ ​at​ ​the​ ​control​ ​area.

● Next

​ ​you​ ​can​ ​​preheat​​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​and​ ​prepare​ ​it​ ​for​ ​the​ ​​printing​.​ ​Set​ ​the​ ​temperatures for ​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​(heater)​ ​and​ ​​heatbed​​ ​(bed)​ ​and​ ​click​ ​​Set​ ​​button.​ ​Printer​ ​starts​ ​​heating immediately.

​ ​​Always​ ​check​ ​that​ ​the​ ​temperatures​ ​set​ ​in​ ​Pronterface​ ​are​ ​correct

according

​ ​to​ ​our​ ​material​ ​guide!

● You

​ ​can​ ​check​ ​the​ ​actual​ ​temperatures​ ​of​ ​​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​bed​ ​in​ ​Pronterface.

● When ​ ​​model​​ ​is​ ​loaded​ ​right​ ​column​ ​shows​ ​the​ ​​estimated​​ ​​print​​ ​duration:​ ​​Estimated

duration

​ ​(pessimistic)

31

Pict.

16 Pronterface

1. Load ​ ​file​​ ​button​ ​is​ ​used​ ​to​ ​​load​​ ​the​ ​desired​ ​​model​..​ ​​Model​​ ​must​ ​be​ ​in​ ​*​.gcode​ ​​file format.

2. Choose

​ ​the​ ​port​ ​​printer​​ ​is​ ​connected​ ​to​ ​computer.​ ​(mostly​ ​​/usbmodem ​ ​for​ ​Mac,

COM1, ​ ​COM2,​ ​etc​ ​for​ ​Windows​ ​PC).

3. Print ​​ ​button​ ​starts​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​process.

4. Disconnect ​​ ​button​ ​disconnects​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​from​ ​the​ ​computer.

5. Printer

​ ​controls.​ ​Here​ ​you​ ​can​ ​manipulate​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​axes.

6. Setting ​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​and​ ​bed​ ​temperatures.

7. Thermometer.

8. Confirming ​ ​the​ ​set​ ​temperatures,​ ​​heating​​ ​start.

9. 2D

​ ​​print​​ ​process​ ​preview.

10. Info ​ ​panel.​ ​Estimated​ ​​print​​ ​time,​ ​axis​ ​position​ ​and​ ​other​ ​info​ ​is​ ​displayed​ ​after​ ​​loading the ​ ​​model​.

7.3​ ​Printer​ ​addons 

7.3.1​ ​Different​ ​nozzles 

E3D,

​ ​a​ ​UK​ ​based​ ​company,​ ​supplies​ ​hotends​ ​for​ ​the​ ​Original​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​MK2​ ​has​ ​whole ecosystem ​ ​of​ ​upgrades​ ​and​ ​addons.​ ​We​ ​support​ ​some​ ​of​ ​them.​ ​You​ ​have​ ​to​ ​use​ ​proper preset

​ ​settings​ ​for​ ​different​ ​nozzles​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​or​ ​PrusaControl.

You

​ ​can​ ​check​ ​out​ ​how​ ​to​ ​change​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​in​ ​section​ ​​

12.4

​ ​Replacing​ ​/​ ​changing​ ​the

nozzle.

32

7.3.1.1​ ​Hardened​ ​steel​ ​nozzle 

Hardened ​ ​steel​ ​nozzles​ ​are​ ​a​ ​must​ ​for​ ​highly​ ​abrasive​ ​materials.​ ​Regular​ ​brass​ ​nozzles​ ​will degrade

​ ​very​ ​quickly​ ​and​ ​lose​ ​their​ ​properties.

Most ​ ​of​ ​the​ ​abrasive​ ​materials​ ​are​ ​composites,​ ​plastics​ ​with​ ​something​ ​mixed​ ​in.​ ​Some examples

​ ​are​ ​ColorFabb​ ​XT​ ​CF20,​ ​ColorFabb​ ​Bronzefill,​ ​ColorFabb​ ​Brassfill​ ​and​ ​some​ ​glow in ​ ​the​ ​dark​ ​filaments.​ ​Always​ ​ask​ ​your​ ​filament​ ​vendor​ ​if​ ​you​ ​are​ ​not​ ​sure.​ ​Slight disadvantage

​ ​is​ ​that​ ​some​ ​standard​ ​materials​ ​like​ ​ABS​ ​isn't​ ​possible​ ​to​ ​print​ ​as​ ​fast​ ​as​ ​with regular ​ ​nozzle.

7.3.1.2​ ​0.25mm​ ​nozzle 

To

​ ​get​ ​finer​ ​detail​ ​on​ ​0.1mm​ ​or​ ​0.05mm​ ​print​ ​settings,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​use​ ​0.25mm​ ​nozzle.​ ​But​ ​use it ​ ​for​ ​only​ ​very​ ​small​ ​objects,​ ​only​ ​couple​ ​centimeters​ ​big.​ ​The​ ​print​ ​time​ ​can​ ​be​ ​considerably longer

​ ​compared​ ​to​ ​0.4mm.​ ​Ideal​ ​use​ ​is​ ​jewelery.

8​ ​Advanced​ ​calibration 

With ​ ​firmware​ ​3.0.12​ ​new​ ​calibration​ ​options​ ​were​ ​added.​ ​They​ ​are​ ​optional​ ​or​ ​experimental and

​ ​are​ ​intended​ ​for​ ​advanced​ ​users.

8.1​ ​PID​ ​tuning​ ​for​ ​Hotend​ ​(Optional) 

In ​ ​case​ ​you​ ​are​ ​experiencing​ ​wide​ ​swings​ ​in​ ​temperatures​ ​of​ ​your​ ​nozzle​ ​(e.g​ ​+/-​ ​5​ ​​ C°), ​ ​​ you shall ​ ​do​ ​PID​ ​tuning​ ​on​ ​your​ ​printer.​ ​​If ​ ​​you

are experiencing major temperature fluctuations higher than that, check that your hotend thermistor is properly seated in the heater block and plugged to your miniRAMBO board first.

You ​ ​can​ ​find​ ​this​ ​feature​ ​in​ ​​Calibration​ ​-​ ​PID​ ​calibration​.​ ​In​ ​this​ ​menu​ ​you​ ​have​ ​the​ ​option to ​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​for​ ​which​ ​PID​ ​will​ ​be​ ​run.​ ​Set​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​with​ ​which​ ​you print

​ ​the​ ​most​ ​as​ ​it​ ​will​ ​tune​ ​it​ ​for​ ​that​ ​the​ ​best,​ ​however,​ ​general​ ​stability​ ​will​ ​improve​ ​for​ ​all temperatures ​ ​(PLA/ABS/PETG).​ ​After​ ​that,​ ​nozzle​ ​will​ ​heat​ ​up​ ​to​ ​the​ ​set​ ​temperature​ ​in​ ​5 cycles.

​ ​During​ ​cycles​ ​it​ ​is​ ​mastering​ ​the​ ​amount​ ​of​ ​power​ ​needed​ ​to​ ​reach​ ​the​ ​temperature and ​ ​maintain​ ​it.

Do

​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​during​ ​this​ ​process​ ​until​ ​it​ ​is​ ​fully​ ​finished​ ​as​ ​it​ ​will​ ​reach high ​ ​temperatures!

Be ​ ​aware​ ​that​ ​PID​ ​tuning​ ​is​ ​not​ ​a​ ​solution​ ​for​ ​all​ ​of​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​fluctuation​ ​issues.

Always

​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​is​ ​located​ ​in​ ​a​ ​room​ ​with​ ​stable​ ​ambient​ ​temperatures, more ​ ​about​ ​that​ ​in​ ​​Thermal​ ​Runaway​ ​and​ ​Temperature​ ​Drops​ ​​at​ ​​help.prusa3d.com .

33

 

8.2​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​calibration/​ ​Temp.​ ​calibration​ ​(Experimental/Optional) 

It is still an experimental feature available since firmware version 3.0.12.

Each user has the option to turn this feature on and off, as it may not help out in all of the cases.

Once you decide to use this feature, be aware that there is a shorter calibration run before each of your prints compensating for different temperatures (this adds about 2 minutes to the standard preheat

process).

New ​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​calibration​ ​is​ ​minimizing​ ​the​ ​issue​ ​of​ ​frequent​ ​re-doing​ ​of​ ​your​ ​Live​ ​Z adjust.

​ ​That​ ​can​ ​occur​ ​once​ ​your​ ​PINDA​ ​probe​ ​readings​ ​are​ ​influenced​ ​by​ ​surrounding conditions, ​ ​mostly​ ​different​ ​temperatures.​ ​This​ ​can​ ​happen​ ​if​ ​your​ ​Live​ ​Z​ ​was​ ​tuned​ ​once printing

​ ​PLA​ ​and​ ​later​ ​on​ ​you​ ​print​ ​ABS​ ​or​ ​the​ ​other​ ​way​ ​round​ ​as​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​temperature​ ​is very ​ ​different.

To ​ ​use​ ​this​ ​new​ ​feature​ ​it​ ​is​ ​necessary​ ​to​ ​run​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​calibration​ ​first.​ ​It​ ​can​ ​be found ​ ​in​ ​​Calibration​ ​-​ ​Temp.​ ​calibration​ ​-​ ​Calibrate​.​ ​Before​ ​you​ ​do​ ​so,​ ​please​ ​make​ ​sure that ​ ​your​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​heatbed​ ​are​ ​perfectly​ ​clean​ ​as​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​will​ ​be​ ​moving​ ​around heatbed ​ ​during​ ​this​ ​process.

Do ​ ​not​ ​touch​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​or​ ​heatbed​ ​during​ ​this​ ​process​ ​until​ ​it​ ​is​ ​fully​ ​finished​ ​as​ ​it will ​ ​reach​ ​high​ ​temperatures!

Once ​ ​calibrating​ ​your​ ​PINDA​ ​probe,​ ​it​ ​will​ ​be​ ​comparing​ ​its​ ​data​ ​readings​ ​under​ ​different temperatures ​ ​and​ ​also​ ​on​ ​top​ ​of​ ​that​ ​it​ ​will​ ​include​ ​your​ ​Live​ ​Z​ ​data.​ ​This​ ​should​ ​help​ ​you​ ​to have

​ ​stable​ ​Live​ ​Z.

Still

​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​your​ ​1st​ ​layer​ ​is​ ​done​ ​properly.​ ​More​ ​about​ ​that​ ​in​ ​​

6.3.10.

Fine-tuning

​ ​the​ ​first​ ​layer

 

8.3​ ​View​ ​XYZ​ ​calibration​ ​details​ ​(Optional) 

Since ​ ​the​ ​release​ ​of​ ​firmware​ ​version​ ​3.0.12,​ ​you​ ​have​ ​an​ ​access​ ​to​ ​more​ ​detailed​ ​info​ ​about

XYZ

​ ​calibrating​ ​results.​ ​This​ ​new​ ​feature​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​in​ ​​Support​ ​-​ ​XYZ​ ​cal.​ ​details​.​ ​The

1st ​ ​screen​ ​tells​ ​you​ ​the​ ​distance​ ​of​ ​the​ ​“perfect”​ ​position​ ​of​ ​your​ ​front​ ​1st,​ ​2nd​ ​and​ ​3rd calibration

​ ​points.​ ​Ideally,​ ​all​ ​of​ ​these​ ​are​ ​positive​ ​and​ ​at​ ​least​ ​0.5​ ​mm​ ​or​ ​more.​ ​If​ ​the​ ​margin is ​ ​between​ ​0​ ​and​ ​0.4​ ​mm,​ ​then​ ​there​ ​is​ ​a​ ​chance​ ​that​ ​your​ ​calibration​ ​will​ ​not​ ​work​ ​all​ ​of​ ​the time.

​ ​In​ ​order​ ​to​ ​improve​ ​your​ ​results,​ ​you​ ​shall​ ​move​ ​with​ ​your​ ​threaded​ ​rods​ ​so​ ​that​ ​all​ ​of the ​ ​points​ ​are​ ​reachable.​ ​​When​ ​you​ ​get​ ​your​ ​axes​ ​perpendicular​ ​or​ ​slightly​ ​skewed,

nothing

​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​tweaked​ ​as​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​perform​ ​with​ ​the​ ​best​ ​accuracy​.

34

Pict.

17: Distance of the front calibration point from the axis start.

Ideal value is between 2 and 3 mm but everything larger than 0.5

mm is good enough.

Pict.18

Example in the picture moving the frame forward on the Y axis (increasing the 100 mm distance from the build manual) will increase the Y distance from min.

Pressing ​ ​the​ ​button​ ​will​ ​get​ ​you​ ​to​ ​the​ ​2nd​ ​screen.​ ​This​ ​screen​ ​will​ ​identify​ ​how​ ​far​ ​you​ ​are from

​ ​the​ ​perfect​ ​perpendicularity.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​measuring​ ​the​ ​skew​ ​of​ ​your​ ​X/Y​ ​axis.

Up to 0.25

° =

Severe skew compensating

for offset of 1.1

mm on 250 mm length

Up to 0.12° =

Slight skew compensating

for offset of 0.5

mm on 250 mm length

Under 0.12° =

No need to compensate

, X/Y axes are perpendicular.

Congratulations!

35

It ​ ​may​ ​look​ ​that​ ​the​ ​compensations​ ​are​ ​not​ ​that​ ​high​ ​at​ ​the​ ​first​ ​sight.​ ​However,​ ​if​ ​we​ ​take into ​ ​consideration​ ​the​ ​250​ ​mm​ ​X-axis​ ​length,​ ​1.1​ ​mm​ ​is​ ​a​ ​large​ ​margin.​ ​In​ ​order​ ​to​ ​improve your ​ ​axis​ ​perpendicularity,​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​the​ ​distance​ ​of​ ​the​ ​front​ ​calibration​ ​points​ ​(seen​ ​on the ​ ​first​ ​screen)​ ​is​ ​the​ ​same.

 

 

Pict.

19 Moving one side of the frame forward (increasing the measured value) on the Y axis and other side backward (decreasing the measured value) according to the values from the first screen will improve the skew.

 

36

9​ ​Printer​ ​drivers 

Latest ​ ​drivers​ ​and​ ​information​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​at​ ​​ http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/ .

Driver

​ ​package​ ​contains​ ​following​ ​settings​ ​and​ ​programs:

PrusaControl

​​ ​-​ ​preparing​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​models​ ​to​ ​.gcode​ ​format​ ​for​ ​printing.

Slic3r

​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition​ ​​-​ ​preparing​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​models​ ​to​ ​.gcode​ ​format​ ​for​ ​printing.

Pronterface

​ ​​-​ ​legacy​ ​printi​ng​​ ​from​ ​a​ ​computer​ ​(in​ ​case​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​want​ ​to​ ​​print​​ ​from​ ​SD)

NetFabb

​ ​​-​ ​repairing​ ​the​ ​corrupted​ ​or​ ​unprintable​ ​​models

Settings

​ ​​-​ ​​optimized​​ ​​print​​ ​​settings​ ​for​ ​Slic3r,​ ​Cura,​ ​Simplify3D​ ​and​ ​KISSlicer

Drivers

​ ​for​ ​Prusa​ ​i3​ ​printer​ ​​-​ ​Windows​ ​a​ ​Mac​ ​drivers

Test

​ ​objects

10​ ​Printing​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models 

10.1​ ​Where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​get​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​models?

 

The ​ ​best​ ​way​ ​to​ ​get​ ​started​ ​with​ ​your​ ​own​ ​3D​ ​​printing​​ ​is​ ​to​ ​find​ ​already​ ​created​ ​​models​​ ​on internet ​​ ​-​ ​they​ ​should​ ​be​ ​in​ ​the​ ​​.stl​​ ​or​ ​​.obj​​ ​format​ ​.​ ​Fortunately​ ​there​ ​are​ ​lot​ ​of​ ​fans​ ​and​ ​there are

​ ​sites​ ​from​ ​which​ ​you​ ​can​ ​download​ ​a​ ​wealth​ ​of​ ​ready-made​ ​3D​ ​​models​​ ​-​ ​from​ ​a​ ​simple shaver ​ ​holder​ ​to​ ​a​ ​​detailed​​ ​aircraft​ ​engine​ ​​model​.

3D ​ ​​models​​ ​are​ ​generally​ ​free​ ​to​ ​download​ ​under​ ​the​ ​​Creative​ ​Commons​ ​-​ ​Attribution​ ​-

Non

​​ ​Commercial​​ ​(​Models​​ ​not​ ​to​ ​be​ ​used​ ​commercially,​ ​you​ ​must​ ​always​ ​include​ ​the​ ​name of

​ ​the​ ​author)​ ​or​ ​for​ ​a​ ​small​ ​fee.​ ​We​ ​have​ ​selected​ ​the​ ​most​ ​interesting​ ​sites​ ​with​ ​high-quality models ​:

1.

http://www.thingiverse.com/

2.

https://pinshape.com/

3.

https://www.youmagine.com/

4.

http://www.shapeways.com/

5.

http://www.123dapp.com/

10.2​ ​In​ ​what​ ​program​ ​you​ ​can​ ​create​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models? 

To ​ ​create​ ​a​ ​3D​ ​​model​​ ​yourself,​ ​you​ ​need​ ​a​ ​dedicated​ ​program.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​to​ ​quickly create

​ ​a​ ​​model​​ ​is​ ​​TinkerCad​​ ​(​ www.

​tinkercad​.com​

)

​ ​-​ ​an​ ​​online​​ ​editor​ ​(no​ ​installation​ ​needed)

​ ​you​ ​create​ ​your​ ​3D​ ​​model​​ ​directly​ ​in​ ​the​ ​browser​ ​window.​ ​It​ ​is​ ​free,​ ​is​ ​easy​ ​to​ ​operate​ ​and you ​ ​will​ ​find​ ​even​ ​basic​ ​video​ ​tutorials,​ ​so​ ​after​ ​a​ ​few​ ​minutes​ ​nothing​ ​prevents​ ​you​ ​to​ ​create your ​ ​first​ ​3D​ ​object.

Other

​ ​popular​ ​tool​ ​for​ ​creating​ ​​models​​ ​is​ ​Fusion​ ​360

(https://www.autodesk.com/products/fusion-360/) ​ ​for​ ​PC,​ ​Mac​ ​and​ ​iPad.​ ​Website​ ​provides​ ​a quick ​ ​guide​ ​​along​​ ​with​ ​​detailed​​ ​video​ ​tutorials​ ​so​ ​it’s​ ​a​ ​very​ ​good​ ​choice​ ​for​ ​novice enthusiasts.

There

​ ​is​ ​a​ ​great​ ​deal​ ​of​ ​3D​ ​programs​ ​-​ ​free​ ​or​ ​paid​ ​-​ ​your​ ​choice​ ​depends​ ​more​ ​on​ ​your personal ​ ​taste​ ​and​ ​preferences.​ ​The​ ​following​ ​is​ ​a​ ​list​ ​of​ ​other​ ​programs​ ​used​ ​for​ ​making​ ​3D

37

models ​:​ ​OpenScad,​ ​DesignSpark​ ​​Mechanical​,​ ​Fusion​ ​360°,​ ​Blender,​ ​Maya,​ ​3DS​ ​Max,

Autocad ​ ​and​ ​many​ ​more…

Pict.

20 Fusion

360

10.3​ ​PrusaControl 

A ​ ​3D​ ​printer​ ​can​ ​print​ ​​almost​ ​​anything.​ ​Whether​ ​you’ve​ ​downloaded​ ​3D​ ​models​ ​from​ ​the

Internet ​ ​or​ ​created​ ​your​ ​own​ ​models,​ ​you​ ​will​ ​need​ ​to​ ​​convert​ ​the​ ​.obj​ ​or​ ​.stl​ ​format​ ​into​ ​a

.gcode

​ ​file​.​ ​Gcode​ ​is​ ​a​ ​file​ ​format​ ​readable​ ​by​ ​a​ ​3D​ ​printer.​ ​The​ ​file​ ​contains​ ​information​ ​for nozzle ​ ​movement​ ​and​ ​the​ ​amount​ ​of​ ​filament​ ​to​ ​extrude.​ ​The​ ​right​ ​tool​ ​for​ ​this​ ​task​ ​-​ ​and​ ​for many ​ ​more​ ​-​ ​is​ ​the​ ​PrusaControl​ ​program.

You ​ ​set​ ​the​ ​printing​ ​material,​ ​print​ ​quality​ ​and​ ​the​ ​print​ ​speed​ ​in​ ​PrusaControl.​ ​You​ ​can manipulate

​ ​the​ ​object​ ​here,​ ​varying​ ​the​ ​placement​ ​on​ ​the​ ​printbed,​ ​resize​ ​it,​ ​etc.

PrusaControl

​​ ​is​ ​the​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​to​ ​get​ ​perfect​ ​prints​ ​on​ ​the​ ​MK2/MK2S​ ​and​ ​should​ ​be​ ​used when ​ ​first​ ​experiencing​ ​the​ ​3D​ ​printing​ ​world.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​get​ ​more​ ​advanced​ ​and​ ​want​ ​to tweak ​ ​the​ ​print​ ​settings​ ​or​ ​add​ ​new​ ​materials,​ ​​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition​​ ​is​ ​waiting​ ​for​ ​you.

38

Pict.

21Prusa Control interface

1. Undo/Redo

​​ ​buttons​ ​return​ ​changes.

2. Scale ​​ ​button​ ​allows​ ​you​ ​to​ ​scale​ ​with​ ​the​ ​mouse​ ​while​ ​the​ ​model​ ​is​ ​selected.

3. Rotate ​​ ​button​ ​allows​ ​you​ ​to​ ​rotate​ ​with​ ​the​ ​mouse​ ​while​ ​the​ ​model​ ​is​ ​selected​ ​(outer circle

​ ​step​ ​are​ ​0,1°,​ ​inner​ ​circle​ ​step​ ​is​ ​45°.)

4. Auto ​ ​arrange​​ ​button​ ​positions​ ​objects​ ​on​ ​the​ ​print​ ​bed.

5. Material ​ ​selection​ ​menu

6. Quality ​ ​/​ ​Speed​ ​setting​ ​of​ ​a​ ​print​ ​menu

7. Infill

​ ​menu

8. Supports ​ ​menu

9. Reset ​ ​transformation​​ ​settings​ ​button

10. Position ​​ ​values

11. Rotation

​​ ​values

12. Scale ​​ ​values

13. Place ​ ​on​ ​bed​​ ​button​ ​turns​ ​on​ ​automatic​ ​placing​ ​of​ ​objects​ ​to​ ​Z=[0]

14. Brim ​​ ​On/Off​ ​button

15. Model

​ ​preview

16. Generate ​​ ​button​ ​slices​ ​the​ ​model

17. Progress ​ ​​bar

39

 

10.4​ ​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition 

PrusaControl ​ ​is​ ​build​ ​on​ ​top​ ​of​ ​the​ ​​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition​​ ​and​ ​hides​ ​all​ ​the​ ​unnecessary clutter ​ ​from​ ​having​ ​all​ ​settings​ ​exposed.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​choose​ ​to​ ​create​ ​your​ ​own​ ​specific​ ​print settings

​ ​or​ ​tweak​ ​material​ ​settings​ ​heavily,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​use​ ​Slic3r​ ​PE​ ​directly.

Pict.

22Slic3r interface

 

1. Add ​​ ​button​ ​loads​ ​models​ ​into​ ​Slic3r.

2. Delete ​​ ​and​ ​​Delete​ ​All​​ ​buttons​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​​model​(s)​ ​from​ ​Slic3r.

3. Opens

​ ​the​ ​​detailed​​ ​​settings​​ ​of​ ​​print​,​ ​​filament​​ ​and​ ​​printer​.

4. When ​ ​the​ ​​model​​ ​is​ ​ready​ ​for​ ​​print​​ ​this​ ​button​ ​generates​ ​the​ ​​.gcode​ ​​file.

5. Quality ​ ​/​ ​​Speed​​ ​setting​ ​of​ ​a​ ​​print

6. Material

​ ​selection

7. Printer

​ ​selection

8. Right-click ​ ​on​ ​model​ ​opens​ ​the​ ​menu​ ​with​ ​rotate,​ ​resize​ ​and​ ​other​ ​options

9. Type ​ ​of​ ​​model​​ ​preview

10. Model

​ ​preview

 

40

10.5​ ​Bundled​ ​3D​ ​models 

We

​ ​asked​ ​couple​ ​known​ ​3D​ ​designers​ ​and​ ​prepared​ ​some​ ​printable​ ​object​ ​for​ ​you​ ​to​ ​print.

They ​ ​are​ ​ideal​ ​for​ ​the​ ​first​ ​prints​ ​on​ ​your​ ​new​ ​printer.​ ​STL​ ​and​ ​GCODE​ ​files​ ​are​ ​available after

​ ​installing​ ​the​ ​drivers​ ​package​ ​in​ ​“3D​ ​Objects”​ ​folder​ ​or​ ​bundled​ ​on​ ​your​ ​SD​ ​card.​ ​You can ​ ​check​ ​them​ ​out​ ​at​ ​​ http://www.prusa3d.com/printable-3d-models/ .

Pict.

23 50 microns treefrog is commonly used as a 3D printing

benchmark.

10.6​ ​Print​ ​in​ ​color​ ​with​ ​ColorPrint 

There

​ ​is​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​way​ ​on​ ​how​ ​to​ ​create​ ​layer​ ​based​ ​multicolored​ ​3D​ ​prints​ ​with​ ​our​ ​simple

ColorPrint ​ ​app.

Pict.

24 Multicolored object printed with ColorPrint

ColorPrint

​ ​is​ ​now​ ​directly​ ​integrated​ ​into​ ​the​ ​PrusaControl​ ​and​ ​filament

changes

​ ​can​ ​be​ ​added​ ​when​ ​the​ ​gcode​ ​is​ ​already​ ​generated​ ​before​ ​saving​ ​it

to

​ ​the​ ​file.​ ​Web​ ​ColorPrint​ ​is​ ​still​ ​useful​ ​for​ ​gcode​ ​from​ ​other​ ​slicers

including

​ ​Slic3r​ ​Prusa​ ​Edition.

● First ​ ​of​ ​all​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​prepare​ ​regular​ ​​gcode​​ ​with​ ​common​ ​print​ ​and​ ​filament settings.

​ ​Save​ ​the​ ​file.

41

● Then ​ ​go​ ​to​ ​​www.prusaprinters.org​​ ​and​ ​choose​ ​​Color​ ​Print​​ ​in​ ​the​ ​header​ ​menu.

● Drag

​ ​the​ ​gcode​ ​to​ ​frame​ ​and​ ​click​ ​on​ ​​Add​ ​change​ ​​button.

● Find

​ ​the​ ​​height​​ ​of​ ​the​ ​layer​ ​where​ ​you​ ​want​ ​to​ ​make​ ​the​ ​color​ ​change.​ ​This​ ​can​ ​be easily

​ ​found​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​under​ ​tab​ ​“Layers.”​ ​The​ ​scale​ ​along​ ​right​ ​side​ ​displays​ ​the height ​ ​of​ ​individual​ ​layers.​ ​Set​ ​this​ ​number​ ​to​ ​the​ ​box.​ ​Number​ ​of​ ​these​ ​changes​ ​is unlimited.

● When ​ ​you​ ​are​ ​done​ ​with​ ​your​ ​modification,​ ​download​ ​the​ ​file.​ ​This​ ​file​ ​is​ ​​ready​​ ​to​ ​be printed!

Pict.

25 Web version of Colorprint interface at prusaprinters.org/colorprint

Insert

​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​which​ ​you​ ​want​ ​to​ ​start​ ​with​ ​into​ ​your​ ​printer​ ​and​ ​start​ ​printing​ ​the​ ​file.

When

​ ​the​ ​color​ ​change​ ​is​ ​triggered​ ​from​ ​the​ ​gcode​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​will​ ​follow​ ​simple​ ​procedure:

● Stop ​ ​moving​ ​and​ ​retract

42

● Raise ​ ​the​ ​Z​ ​by​ ​2​ ​mm​ ​and​ ​move​ ​quickly​ ​outside​ ​the​ ​printbed

● Unload ​ ​the​ ​current​ ​filament

● You ​ ​will​ ​get​ ​asked​ ​to​ ​insert​ ​the​ ​new​ ​filament.​ ​When​ ​you​ ​do​ ​so​ ​and​ ​continue,​ ​filament will ​ ​be​ ​pulled​ ​into​ ​the​ ​hotend​ ​and​ ​LCD​ ​will​ ​display​ ​​“Changed​ ​correctly?”​ ​​with​ ​three options:

1. “Yes” ​​ ​Everything​ ​went​ ​ok​ ​and​ ​​printing​​ ​can​ ​continue.​ ​Check​ ​if​ ​the​ ​new​ ​​color​​ ​is​ ​clear without

​ ​any​ ​remains​ ​of​ ​the​ ​previous​ ​​filament​​ ​-​ ​if​ ​yes,​ ​choose​ ​this​ ​option​ ​to​ ​continue printing ​​ ​with​ ​a​ ​new​ ​​color​.

2. “Filament

​ ​not​ ​loaded”​​ ​If​ ​the​ ​new​ ​​filament​​ ​was​ ​not​ ​loaded​ ​​properly​,​ ​choose​ ​this option ​ ​and​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​will​ ​start​ ​the​ ​automatic​ ​​filament​​ ​​load​​ ​again.​ ​When​ ​the​ ​​filament is

​ ​loaded​ ​​properly​,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​“Yes”​ ​option​ ​and​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​will​ ​continue​ ​with a ​ ​new​ ​​color​.

3. “

​Color​​ ​not​ ​clear”​​ ​​Filament​​ ​was​ ​loaded​ ​but​ ​the​ ​​color​​ ​is​ ​still​ ​mixed​ ​with​ ​the​ ​previous filament ​.​ ​Press​ ​the​ ​button​ ​with​ ​this​ ​option​ ​and​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​will​ ​extrude​ ​more​ ​​filament from

​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​.​ ​When​ ​the​ ​​color​​ ​is​ ​pure​ ​without​ ​any​ ​remains​ ​of​ ​the​ ​previous​ ​filament you ​ ​can​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​“Yes”​ ​option​ ​and​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​will​ ​continue​ ​with​ ​a​ ​new​ ​​color​.

After

​ ​confirming,​ ​printer​ ​returns​ ​to​ ​the​ ​original​ ​position​ ​and​ ​continues​ ​to​ ​print.

Other

​ ​options​ ​for​ ​​multicolored​​ ​​print​ ​​is​ ​to​​ ​​use​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​change​ ​option.​ ​Choose the

​ ​​Tune​ ​​and​ ​then​ ​​Change​ ​​filament​​ ​option​ ​during​ ​the​ ​​print​.​ ​Printer​ ​will​ ​pause​ ​the printing ​​ ​process,​ ​unload​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​and​ ​signals​ ​you​ ​to​ ​insert​ ​the​ ​new​ ​​filament​.​ ​The procedure ​ ​is​ ​the​ ​same​ ​as​ ​above.

You ​ ​should​ ​always​ ​use​ ​the​ ​same​ ​material​ ​or​ ​combine​ ​materials​ ​with​ ​similar​ ​print temperatures ​ ​and​ ​settings.

10.6​ ​Printing​ ​of​ ​non-standard​ ​models 

Slic3r ​ ​helps​ ​you​ ​while​ ​​printing​​ ​the​ ​​non​-standard​ ​​models​​ ​as​ ​​models​​ ​with​ ​​overhangs​​ ​and/or models ​​ ​larger​ ​than​ ​a​ ​​printing​​ ​bed.

10.6.1​ ​Printing​ ​with​ ​support​ ​material 

When ​ ​you​ ​​print​​ ​​models​​ ​you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​special​ ​cases​ ​different​ ​from​ ​standard​ ​​printing​.​ ​The​ ​first case

​ ​is​ ​​printing​​ ​with​ ​​support​​ ​​material​.

If ​ ​you​ ​​print​​ ​an​ ​object​ ​with​ ​a​ ​gradient​ ​lower​ ​than​ ​45°​ ​the​ ​​material​​ ​​overhang​​ ​would​ ​be preventing ​ ​the​ ​object​ ​to​ ​be​ ​printed​ ​correctly.​ ​Slic3r​ ​allows​ ​you​ ​to​ ​​print​​ ​such​ ​objects​ ​thanks​ ​to the ​ ​‘​Printing​​ ​with​ ​​support’​ ​function​.​ ​Support​ ​​material​​ ​is​ ​an​ ​extra​ ​structure​ ​printed​ ​as scaffolding

​ ​for​ ​the​ ​object​ ​-​ ​you​ ​can​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​​support​​ ​​material​​ ​after​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​is​ ​finished.

Choose ​ ​the​ ​​Print

Settings

​ ​tab​ ​​(1)​​ ​and​ ​click​ ​the​ ​​Support

Material

option ​ ​​(2)​​ ​in​ ​left​ ​column.

First ​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​check​ ​the​ ​​Generate

support material

​ ​box​ ​​(3)​.​ ​Next​ ​item​ ​-​ ​​Overhang

threshold

​ ​​(4)​​ ​lets​ ​you​ ​set​ ​the​ ​minimal​ ​angle​ ​for​ ​​printing​​ ​the​ ​​support​​ ​​material​.​ ​Setting​ ​this​ ​item to

​ ​zero​ ​lets​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​detect​ ​problematic​ ​parts​ ​automatically​ ​and​ ​​print​​ ​​support​​ ​where​ ​it’s needed.

43

Enforce support

​ ​option​ ​​(5)​​ ​is​ ​used​ ​mostly​ ​with​ ​small​ ​​models​​ ​or​ ​​models​​ ​with​ ​small​ ​base​ ​to prevent ​ ​the​ ​object​ ​from​ ​breaking​ ​or​ ​tearing​ ​out​ ​from​ ​the​ ​bed.

Pict.

26 Print with support

menu

10.6.2​ ​Large​ ​object​ ​printing 

Another ​ ​special​ ​​printing​​ ​case​ ​is​ ​when​ ​​printing​​ ​objects​ ​larger​ ​than​ ​the​ ​​heatbed​.​ ​First​ ​option​ ​is to ​ ​resize​ ​the​ ​object​ ​to​ ​a​ ​printable​ ​​size​.​ ​Right-click​ ​on​ ​an​ ​object​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​opens​ ​a​ ​menu​ ​with the ​ ​​Scale

…

option, ​ ​then​ ​you​ ​choose​ ​​Uniformly , ​ ​if​ ​you​ ​want​ ​to​ ​​scale​​ ​down​ ​the​ ​​model​​ ​evenly; or

​ ​you​ ​can​ ​alter​ ​the​ ​​size​​ ​of​ ​a​ ​​model​​ ​​along​​ ​the​ ​one​ ​of​ ​the​ ​axes:​ ​​Along

X, Y, Z axis

…

Pict.

27 Size change of a printed object

44

If ​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​​print​​ ​an​ ​object​ ​that​ ​doesn’t​ ​fit​ ​the​ ​​printer​,​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​​cut​ ​the​ ​object​​ ​using

Slic3r.

​ ​Right-click​ ​and​ ​choose​ ​the​ ​​Cut

…

​ ​option​ ​in​ ​menu.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​​cut​​ ​the​ ​object​ ​horizontally​ ​- if

​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​perform​ ​a​ ​​cut​​ ​in​ ​a​ ​different​ ​axis,​ ​use​ ​the​ ​​Flip... option

​ ​in​ ​the​ ​same​ ​menu.

Pict.

28 Cutting the object with the Cut option

45

11​ ​Materials 

Temperatures ​ ​and​ ​the​ ​​heatbed​​ ​treatment​ ​before​ ​​print​​ ​according​ ​to​ ​a​ ​specific​ ​​material​.

11.1​ ​ABS 

Material ​ ​suitable​ ​for​ ​common,​ ​robust​ ​objects.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​255​​ ​​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​100​ ​°C.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​set​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​temperature​ ​between​ ​80​ ​to​ ​110​ ​°C depending ​ ​the​ ​​size​​ ​of​ ​an​ ​object​ ​(larger​ ​object​ ​means​ ​higher​ ​temperature)

● Heatbed:

​ ​​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​​

6.3.2

​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface preparation ​ ​chapter

11.2​ ​PLA 

Material ​ ​suitable​ ​for​ ​​detailed​​ ​​models​.​ ​PLA​ ​is​ ​made​ ​of​ ​renewable​ ​sources,​ ​mostly​ ​from​ ​the cornflour ​ ​and​ ​cellulose.​ ​This​ ​material​ ​only​ ​is​ ​proven​ ​for​ ​50​ ​microns​ ​layer​ ​height.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​215​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​50​ ​-​ ​60​ ​°C

● Heatbed:

​ ​​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean,​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​​ 6.3.2

​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface preparation

​ ​chapter

11.3​ ​PET 

Material

​ ​suitable​ ​for​ ​large​ ​objects​ ​thanks​ ​to​ ​its​ ​minimal​ ​thermal​ ​expansion.​ ​Universal​ ​​material suited ​ ​also​ ​for​ ​printable​ ​​mechanical​​ ​components.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​240​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​80​ ​-​ ​100​ ​°C

● Heatbed:

​ ​​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean,​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​​ 6.3.2

​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface preparation ​ ​chapter.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​use​ ​isopropyl​ ​alcohol​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​bed,​ ​or​ ​the​ ​adhesion

may

​ ​be​ ​too​ ​strong,​ ​if​ ​you​ ​do​ ​not​ ​have​ ​anything​ ​else​ ​on​ ​hand​ ​use​ ​the​ ​bundled​ ​glue​ ​as a ​ ​separator​ ​after​ ​cleaning​ ​it.​ ​Windex​ ​or​ ​similar​ ​windows​ ​cleaner​ ​is​ ​great​ ​option​ ​for

PET ​ ​and​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​need​ ​to​ ​use​ ​the​ ​glue​ ​after​ ​the​ ​cleaning.​ ​Pour​ ​a​ ​little​ ​amount​ ​on unscented ​ ​paper​ ​towel​ ​and​ ​wipe​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.

11.4​ ​HIPS 

Universal, ​ ​stable​ ​​material​​ ​with​ ​good​ ​heat​ ​resistance​ ​suited​ ​for​ ​printable​ ​​mechanical components.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​220​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​100​ ​°C.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​set​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​temperature​ ​between​ ​80​ ​to​ ​110​ ​°C depending ​ ​the​ ​​size​​ ​of​ ​an​ ​object​ ​(larger​ ​object​ ​means​ ​higher​ ​temperature)

● Heatbed:

​ ​​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean,​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​​

6.3.2

​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface preparation ​ ​chapter

46

11.5​ ​PP 

Polypropylene ​ ​is​ ​a​ ​flexible​ ​and​ ​resistant​ ​​material​​ ​suitable​ ​for​ ​​printing​​ ​of​ ​the​ ​precise​ ​objects requiring ​ ​the​ ​flexibility,​ ​firmness​ ​and​ ​persistence.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​254​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​95​ ​-​ ​100​ ​°C.

● Heatbed:

​ ​​The​ ​best​ ​results​ ​are​ ​obtained​ ​with​ ​common​ ​scotch​ ​tape​ ​-​ ​just​ ​attach​ ​the tape

​ ​directly​ ​to​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​and​ ​clean​ ​it​ ​after​ ​the​ ​print​ ​is​ ​finished.

11.6​ ​Nylon​ ​(Taulman​ ​Bridge) 

Nylon ​ ​is​ ​very​ ​tough​ ​material​ ​suitable​ ​for​ ​mechanical​ ​parts.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​240​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​80​ ​-​​ ​​90​ ​°C.

● Heatbed:

​ ​​Use​ ​one​ ​coat​ ​of​ ​glue​ ​stick.​ ​Clean​ ​as​ ​described​ ​after​ ​the​ ​print.

11.7​ ​Flex  

Flex ​ ​is​ ​a​ ​very​ ​strong​ ​and​ ​flexible​ ​​material​​ ​suitable​ ​especially​ ​for​ ​the​ ​flexible​ ​prototypes, covers, ​ ​etc.​ ​​Important:​​ ​Before​ ​you​ ​start​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​Flex,​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​from​ ​the previous ​ ​material​ ​-​ ​preheat​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​and​ ​load​ ​PLA​ ​to​ ​remove​ ​any​ ​other​ ​previous​ ​material.

When

​ ​loading​ ​Flex​ ​loosen​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​(idler)​ ​screws.​ ​Keep​ ​in​ ​mind​ ​that​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​from

Flex ​ ​the​ ​automatic​ ​filament​ ​exchange​ ​function​ ​may​ ​not​ ​work​ ​properly.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​230​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​50​ ​°C.​ ​You​ ​can​ ​set​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​temperature​ ​up​ ​to​ ​65​ ​°C​ ​depending the ​ ​​size​​ ​of​ ​an​ ​object.​ ​(larger​ ​object​ ​means​ ​higher​ ​temperature)

● Heatbed:

​ ​​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean​ ​as​ ​described​ ​in​ ​​ 6.3.2

​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface preparation

​ ​chapter.​ ​Some​ ​very​ ​soft​ ​flex​ ​materials​ ​can​ ​bond​ ​to​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​too​ ​much​ ​and

require ​ ​to​ ​use​ ​glue​ ​on​ ​the​ ​bed​ ​as​ ​separator​ ​to​ ​prevent​ ​PEI​ ​damage.

11.8​ ​Composite​ ​materials 

Composite materials (woodfill, copperfill, bronzefill, carbon or aramid composites and many others) consist of main plastic base and second material in the form of dust. These materials tend to be very abrasive, therefore hardened nozzle is strongly suggested for long-term printing. Larger nozzle is recommended while printing with wood composites (0.5 mm and up). Please use corresponding print settings in Slic3r or PrusaControl as print parameters can ​ ​be​ ​very​ ​different​ ​depending​ ​on​ ​plastic​ ​base.

11.9​ ​ASA 

Acrylonitrile-styrene-acryl

​ ​(ASA)​ ​is​ ​a​ ​material​ ​with​ ​properties​ ​similar​ ​to​ ​ABS,​ ​its​ ​main​ ​benefit is ​ ​increased​ ​weather​ ​and​ ​UV​ ​resistance.​ ​Other​ ​advantage​ ​is​ ​overall​ ​dimensional​ ​stability.​ ​To achieve ​ ​cast-like​ ​surface,​ ​acetone​ ​smoothing​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used...

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​270​ ​-​ ​280​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​100​ ​-​ ​110​ ​°C​ ​(bigger​ ​object​ ​->​ ​higher​ ​temp.)

● Heatbed:

​ ​​​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​of​ ​the​ ​heatbed​ ​is​ ​clean.​ ​Usage​ ​of​ ​brim​ ​is​ ​suggested

(see ​ ​Prusa​ ​Knowledgebase).

47

11.10​ ​nGen 

Developed

​ ​by​ ​Eastman​ ​Chemical​ ​Company​ ​and​ ​colorFabb,​ ​nGen​ ​offers​ ​increased resistance ​ ​to​ ​heat​ ​as​ ​well​ ​as​ ​dimensional​ ​stability.​ ​Material​ ​is​ ​low-odor​ ​and​ ​styrene-free.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​240​ ​​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​80​ ​-​ ​100​ ​°C​ ​(bigger​ ​object​ ​->​ ​higher​ ​temp.)

● Heatbed:

​ ​​​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​is​ ​clean.​ ​Do​ ​not​ ​use​ ​isopropyl​ ​alcohol​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the bed, ​ ​or​ ​the​ ​adhesion​ ​may​ ​be​ ​too​ ​strong,​ ​use​ ​window​ ​cleaner​ ​instead.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​do​ ​not have ​ ​anything​ ​else​ ​on​ ​hand​ ​use​ ​the​ ​bundled​ ​glue​ ​as​ ​a​ ​separator​ ​after​ ​cleaning​ ​it.

Windex

​ ​or​ ​similar​ ​windows​ ​cleaner​ ​is​ ​a​ ​great​ ​option​ ​for​ ​nGen​ ​and​ ​you​ ​don’t​ ​need​ ​to use ​ ​the​ ​glue​ ​after​ ​the​ ​cleaning.​ ​Spray​ ​small​ ​amount​ ​on​ ​unscented​ ​paper​ ​towel​ ​and wipe ​ ​the​ ​print​ ​surface.

11.11​ ​PC-ABS​ ​(E3D) 

Polycarbonate ABS (PC-ABS) is an enhanced version of traditional ABS. Offers easier processing, higher strength, stiffness and temperature resistance. PC-ABS is also suitable for structures with openings, its bridging capability is improved compared to ABS. Typical usage ​ ​of​ ​PC-ABS​ ​is​ ​for​ ​durable​ ​plastic​ ​parts​ ​like​ ​television​ ​or​ ​computer​ ​casings.

● Nozzle

​ ​temperature:​ ​​270​ ​-​ ​280​ ​°C

● Bed

​ ​temperature:​ ​​100​ ​-​ ​110​ ​°C​ ​(bigger​ ​object​ ​->​ ​higher​ ​temp.)

● Heatbed:

​ ​​​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​surface​ ​of​ ​the​ ​heatbed​ ​is​ ​clean.

11.12​ ​Dialing​ ​in​ ​new​ ​materials 

Each ​ ​manufacturer​ ​produces​ ​slightly​ ​different​ ​material​ ​even​ ​though,​ ​they​ ​are​ ​under​ ​the same ​ ​group.​ ​For​ ​example​ ​Prusa​ ​PLA​ ​and​ ​ColorFabb​ ​PLA​ ​will​ ​have​ ​slightly​ ​different​ ​output when

​ ​printed.

To ​ ​achieve​ ​the​ ​best​ ​possible​ ​output​ ​you​ ​should​ ​experiment​ ​with​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​ ​temperature​,

fan

​ ​speed​,​ ​​print​ ​speed​​ ​and​ ​​flow​.​ ​All​ ​of​ ​these​ ​can​ ​be​ ​changed​ ​even​ ​during​ ​a​ ​print​ ​from​ ​the

Tweak

​​ ​menu​ ​on​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​panel.

Same

​ ​also​ ​applies​ ​even​ ​for​ ​materials​ ​which​ ​are​ ​not​ ​listed​ ​here.​​ ​Take​ ​the​ ​manufacturer suggested

​ ​settings,​ ​find​ ​the​ ​closest​ ​match​ ​in​ ​Slic3r​ ​material​ ​profiles,​ ​modify​ ​and​ ​save​ ​as new.

​ ​​Continue​ ​by​ ​printing​ ​few​ ​simple​ ​test​ ​pieces​ ​and​ ​continuously​ ​use​ ​the​ ​Tweak

menu.

​​ ​After​ ​each​ ​improvement,​ ​don’t​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​modify​ ​the​ ​settings​ ​in​ ​Slic3r.​ ​Reset​ ​the​ ​tweak values ​ ​before​ ​every​ ​print.

Don’t

​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​share​ ​your​ ​settings​ ​on​ ​our​ ​forums​ ​or​ ​directly​ ​with​ ​us.

48

 

12​ ​FAQ​ ​-​ ​Printer​ ​maintenance​ ​and​ ​print​ ​issues 

12.1​ ​Regular​ ​maintenance 

12.1.1​ ​Bearings 

Every ​ ​couple​ ​hundred​ ​hours,​ ​the​ ​smooth​ ​rods​ ​should​ ​be​ ​cleaned​ ​with​ ​paper​ ​towel.​ ​Then apply

​ ​little​ ​bit​ ​of​ ​general​ ​purpose​ ​machine​ ​oil​ ​on​ ​the​ ​smooth​ ​rods​ ​and​ ​move​ ​the​ ​axis​ ​back and ​ ​forth​ ​couple​ ​of​ ​times.​ ​This​ ​cleans​ ​the​ ​dirt​ ​and​ ​increases​ ​longevity.

If ​ ​you​ ​feel​ ​the​ ​axis​ ​is​ ​not​ ​running​ ​smoothly​ ​anymore,​ ​bearings​ ​can​ ​be​ ​taken​ ​out​ ​and​ ​greased on

​ ​the​ ​inside​ ​(they​ ​need​ ​to​ ​be​ ​removed​ ​from​ ​axis​ ​as​ ​plastic​ ​lip​ ​will​ ​prevent​ ​the​ ​grease​ ​from getting ​ ​inside).​ ​Super-lube​ ​or​ ​any​ ​other​ ​multi​ ​purpose​ ​grease​ ​will​ ​do.

12.1.2​ ​Fans 

Both

​ ​fans​ ​should​ ​be​ ​checked​ ​and​ ​cleaned​ ​every​ ​couple​ ​hundred​ ​hours,​ ​dust​ ​or​ ​plastic​ ​build up ​ ​can​ ​decrease​ ​their​ ​efficiency​ ​or​ ​even​ ​damage​ ​them.​ ​Computer​ ​cleaner​ ​spray​ ​will​ ​get​ ​the dust

​ ​away​ ​and​ ​tweezers​ ​can​ ​be​ ​used​ ​for​ ​little​ ​plastic​ ​strands.

12.1.3​ ​Extruder​ ​drive​ ​gear 

The ​ ​hobbed​ ​drive​ ​gear​ ​on​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​motor​ ​shaft​ ​can​ ​have​ ​build​ ​up​ ​of​ ​filament​ ​shavings​ ​in the

​ ​grooves​ ​and​ ​cause​ ​under​ ​extrusion.​ ​A​ ​small​ ​brass​ ​brush​ ​is​ ​ideal​ ​tool​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the grooves ​ ​but​ ​regular​ ​toothpick​ ​will​ ​do​ ​the​ ​job​ ​as​ ​well.​ ​Check​ ​and​ ​clean​ ​from​ ​the​ ​access window

​ ​on​ ​the​ ​left​ ​of​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​assembly.​ ​Clean​ ​what​ ​you​ ​can,​ ​then​ ​rotate​ ​the​ ​gear​ ​and repeat.

​ ​Nothing​ ​needs​ ​to​ ​be​ ​disassembled.​ ​Clean​ ​when​ ​you​ ​see​ ​signs​ ​of​ ​missing​ ​plastic​ ​in the

​ ​objects,​ ​e.g.​ ​missing​ ​lines​ ​of​ ​extrusion.

12.1.4​ ​Electronics 

It ​ ​is​ ​good​ ​practice​ ​to​ ​check​ ​and​ ​eventually​ ​reseat​ ​the​ ​electric​ ​connectors​ ​on​ ​the​ ​mini​ ​RAMBo board.

​ ​Do​ ​so​ ​after​ ​first​ ​50​ ​hours​ ​of​ ​printing​ ​and​ ​then​ ​every​ ​couple​ ​hundred​ ​hours.

 

12.1.5​ ​PEI​ ​rejuvenation 

PEI ​ ​can​ ​lose​ ​its​ ​adhesive​ ​powers​ ​after​ ​couple​ ​hundred​ ​hours.​ ​Wipe​ ​thoroughly​ ​with​ ​acetone when

​ ​you​ ​see​ ​models​ ​getting​ ​loose​ ​to​ ​restore​ ​the​ ​adhesion...

49

12.1​ ​Print​ ​surface​ ​preparation 

Print

​ ​surface​ ​preparation​ ​is​ ​described​ ​in​ ​​ 6.3.2

​ ​PEI​ ​print​ ​surface​ ​preparation​ ​ ​chapter.

12.2​ ​Clogged​ ​/​ ​jammed​ ​extruder 

Material

​ ​clogged​ ​in​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​can​ ​cause​ ​problems​ ​with​ ​the​ ​​printing​​ ​or​ ​with​ ​the​ ​​loading​​ ​of​ ​a new ​ ​​filament​.

● Heat ​ ​the​ ​nozzle,​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​from​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​and​ ​cut​ ​the​ ​rod​ ​cca​ ​10​ ​cm above

​ ​the​ ​damaged​ ​part.

● The ​ ​next​ ​step​ ​is​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​extruder.​ ​There​ ​is​ ​a​ ​service​ ​hole​ ​on​ ​the​ ​left​ ​side​ ​of​ ​the extruder ​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​access​ ​the​ ​hobbed​ ​pulley​ ​(pict.​ ​29).

● Clean ​ ​the​ ​hobbed​ ​pulley,​ ​then​ ​heat​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​before​ ​re​loading​ ​the​​ ​​filament​.

● If

​ ​a​ ​problem​ ​persists​ ​you​ ​will​ ​have​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​.

Pict.

29 Cleaning the extruder you can see the hobbed pulley through the service hole

12.3​ ​Nozzle​ ​cleaning 

Use ​ ​a​ ​wire​ ​brush​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​from​ ​outside.​ ​Heat​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​before​ ​you​ ​do​ ​so.

50

If ​ ​​filament​​ ​is​ ​not​ ​extruded​ ​from​ ​a​ ​​nozzle​​ ​(or​ ​in​ ​very​ ​small​ ​volume),​ ​first​ ​check​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​fan is ​ ​working​ ​​properly​​ ​and​ ​that​ ​the​ ​temperature​ ​is​ ​set​ ​correctly​ ​(PLA​ ​210​ ​°C;​ ​ABS​ ​255​ ​°C,​ ​HIPS

220 ​ ​°C,​ ​PET​ ​240​ ​°C).​ ​Also​ ​check​ ​that​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​was​ ​correctly​ ​loaded​ ​into​ ​the​ ​extruder.

If

​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​pours​ ​out​ ​at​ ​least​ ​a​ ​little,​ ​check​ ​the​ ​direction.​ ​If​ ​it​ ​swirls​ ​and​ ​goes​ ​up​ ​to​ ​the hotend ​​ ​you​ ​need​ ​to​ ​clean​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​.

First ​ ​you​ ​have​ ​to​ ​move​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​to​ ​the​ ​rightmost​ ​position,​ ​out​ ​of​ ​the​ ​way​ ​of​ ​the​ ​​heatbed, to

​ ​reach​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​from​ ​below.

Heat

​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​according​ ​to​ ​​filament​​ ​you​ ​want​ ​to​ ​​print​​ ​from,​ ​​load​​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​and​ ​put​ ​a

bundled

​ ​acupuncture​ ​needle​​ ​(0,3-0,35​ ​mm)​ ​into​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​from​ ​below​ ​-​ ​between​ ​1​ ​and​ ​2 cm ​ ​deep.

Choose

​ ​​Load​ ​filament​​ ​option​ ​from​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​menu​ ​and​ ​check​ ​if​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​extruded​ ​properly.

Put ​ ​the​ ​​acupuncture​ ​needle​ ​​into​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​again​ ​and​ ​repeat​ ​these​ ​steps​ ​a​ ​few​ ​times​ ​more.

When ​ ​the​ ​filament​ ​is​ ​extruded​ ​properly,​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​clear.

12.4​ ​Replacing​ ​/​ ​changing​ ​the​ ​nozzle 

Preheat

​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​(LCD​ ​menu​ ​->​ ​Settings​ ​->​ ​Temperature​ ​->​ ​Nozzle)​ ​and​ ​set​ ​the temperature ​ ​to​ ​at​ ​least​ ​200°C.​ ​Heating​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​crucial​ ​for​ ​removing​ ​the​ ​old​ ​nozzle​ ​and putting ​ ​in​ ​the​ ​new​ ​one.

1) Move

​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​body​ ​upwards​ ​to​ ​get​ ​to​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​end​ ​(LCD​ ​menu​ ​->​ ​Settings​ ​->

Move ​ ​axis​ ​->​ ​Move​ ​Z​ ​->​ ​Set​ ​the​ ​height​ ​by​ ​rotating​ ​the​ ​LCD​ ​knob​ ​and​ ​then​ ​confirm).

2) Unscrew ​ ​the​ ​screw​ ​on​​ ​fan​ ​​

mouthpiece

​ ​and​ ​the​ ​two​ ​screws​ ​on​ ​the​ ​​print​ ​fan​ ​​and remove

​ ​both​ ​parts​ ​​(Pict.​ ​30,​ ​part​ ​1)​.

3) Remove ​ ​the​ ​two​ ​front​ ​screws​ ​on​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​ ​fan​ ​(Pict.​ ​30,​ ​part​ ​2).

4) Unscrew ​ ​the​ ​two​ ​screw​ ​holding​ ​the​ ​​extruder​ ​cover​​ ​​(Pict.​ ​30,​ ​part​ ​3)​.​ ​Even​ ​though the ​ ​nozzle​ ​itself​ ​is​ ​accessible​ ​directly,​ ​we​ ​recommend​ ​to​ ​take​ ​the​ ​extruder​ ​cover​ ​to get

​ ​access​ ​to​ ​the​ ​heating​ ​element.

5) Now ​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​nozzle​ ​body​ ​is​ ​accessible​ ​​(Pict.​ ​30,​ ​part​ ​4)​.

6) Hold ​ ​the​ ​heating​ ​element​ ​with​ ​a​ ​spanner​ ​(size​ ​17)​ ​and​ ​unscrew​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​​(Pict.​ ​30,

part

​ ​5)​.​ ​​Be​ ​careful,​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​still​ ​hot!

When ​ ​the​ ​new​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​inserted,​ ​tighten​ ​it​ ​while​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​preheated.​ ​While​ ​tightening​ ​do not ​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​hold​ ​the​ ​heating​ ​element​ ​with​ ​the​ ​spanner.​ ​Re-assemble​ ​the​ ​extruder,​ ​insert​ ​the filament ​ ​and​ ​you​ ​are​ ​ready​ ​to​ ​print.

Be

​ ​careful,​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​is​ ​hot​ ​during​ ​this​ ​whole​ ​process​ ​and​ ​can​ ​cause​ ​burns!

Be

​ ​careful​ ​around​ ​the​ ​hotend​ ​thermistor​ ​leads,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​break​ ​them​ ​easily.

Be

​ ​careful​ ​and​ ​don’t​ ​apply​ ​force​ ​to​ ​the​ ​nozzle​ ​or​ ​heater​ ​block,​ ​you​ ​can​ ​bend

the

​ ​heatbreak​ ​easily.

It

​ ​is​ ​a​ ​good​ ​practice​ ​to​ ​run​ ​​

6.3.9

​ ​First​ ​layer​ ​calibration​ ​ ​​after​ ​changing​ ​the​ ​nozzle!

51

 

 

 

Pict.

30 Nozzle change

52

12.5​ ​Printing​ ​problems 

12.5.1​ ​Layers​ ​break​ ​and​ ​split​ ​when​ ​printing​ ​from​ ​ABS​ ​material 

ABS

​ ​​material​​ ​has​ ​a​ ​higher​ ​thermal​ ​expansion​ ​than​ ​other​ ​​materials​.​ ​We​ ​suggest​ ​other materials ​​ ​as​ ​PET,​ ​HIPS​ ​or​ ​PLA​ ​when​ ​you​ ​​print​​ ​larger​ ​​models​.

12.5.2​ ​Models​ ​contain​ ​either​ ​too​ ​much​ ​or​ ​not​ ​enough​ ​of​ ​the​ ​filament 

You ​ ​can​ ​manage​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​​flow​​ ​during​ ​the​ ​​print​.​ ​Use​ ​the​ ​LCD-knob​ ​and​ ​choose​ ​​Tune​ ​-

Flow

​​ ​-​ ​xx%​​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​adjust​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​​flow​.​ ​Pronterface​ ​users​ ​can​ ​enter​ ​the​ ​value

M221 ​ ​Sxx​ ​into​ ​the​ ​command​ ​line.

When ​ ​you​ ​change​ ​the​ ​​filament​​ ​​flow​​ ​next​ ​​print​​ ​will​ ​use​ ​the​ ​same​ ​​settings​​ ​unless​ ​you change ​ ​it​ ​again​ ​in​ ​menu​ ​or​ ​you​ ​reset​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​or​ ​unplug​ ​it​ ​from​ ​the​ ​power​ ​source.

12​

.6​ ​Problems​ ​with​ ​finished​ ​models

 

12.6.1​ ​Model​ ​breaks​ ​and/or​ ​is​ ​easily​ ​damaged 

A ​ ​typical​ ​feature​ ​of​ ​larger​ ​models​ ​printed​ ​from​ ​ABS.​ ​If​ ​you​ ​have​ ​set​ ​the​ ​temperature properly

​,​ ​the​ ​​printer​​ ​is​ ​away​ ​from​ ​​drafts​​ ​and​ ​object​ ​​design​​ ​is​ ​right,​ ​the​ ​printed​ ​object​ ​should not ​ ​break.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​to​ ​avoid​ ​breaking​ ​or​ ​overall​ ​model​ ​fragility​ ​is​ ​to​ ​choose​ ​a​ ​different material ​.​ ​The​ ​strongest​ ​are​ ​PET,​ ​HIPS​ ​and​ ​PLA;​ ​while​ ​PLA​ ​has​ ​low​ ​heat​ ​resistance,PET​ ​is the ​ ​firmest​ ​and​ ​has​ ​the​ ​lowest​ ​thermal​ ​expansion.

12.7​ ​Updating​ ​printer​ ​firmware 

Firmware

​ ​update​ ​is​ ​a​ ​simple​ ​process​ ​which​ ​is​ ​done​ ​via​ ​the​ ​USB​ ​cable​ ​and​ ​a​ ​computer.​ ​With the ​ ​driver​ ​installation​ ​a​ ​program​ ​called​ ​​FirmwareUpdater​ ​V2​​ ​is​ ​installed​ ​on​ ​the​ ​computer.

Latest

​ ​firmwares​ ​can​ ​be​ ​found​ ​on​ ​​ http://www.prusa3d.com/drivers/

​ ​where​ ​you​ ​can​ ​find​ ​the latest ​ ​guide​ ​on​ ​which​ ​firmware​ ​to​ ​choose​ ​and​ ​​detailed​ ​instructions​​ ​for​ ​the​ ​process.​ ​Printer will

​ ​reset​ ​automatically​ ​right​ ​before​ ​the​ ​update​ ​and​ ​after​ ​the​ ​update​ ​is​ ​finished.

V2calibration.gcode

​​ ​is​ ​required​ ​to​ ​finish​ ​after​ ​the​ ​firmware​ ​update,​ ​see​ ​chapter​ ​​ 6.3.9

​ ​First layer ​ ​calibration​ .

53

13​ ​FAQ​ ​-​ ​common​ ​issues​ ​when​ ​assembling​ ​the​ ​printer​ ​kit 

13.1​ ​Nozzle/print​ ​surface​ ​gap​ ​is​ ​greater​ ​in​ ​the​ ​middle​ ​than​ ​at​ ​the 

corners 

The ​ ​reason​ ​of​ ​this​ ​issue​ ​isn’t​ ​the​ ​bent​ ​printer​ ​surface​ ​or​ ​bed​ ​but​ ​a​ ​distorted​ ​Y-axis.​ ​We suggest

​ ​to​ ​remove​ ​the​ ​whole​ ​Y-axis​ ​out​ ​of​ ​the​ ​​printer​.​ ​Follow​ ​these​ ​steps:

● Align ​ ​the​ ​Y-axis​ ​so​ ​that​ ​each​ ​Y-corner​ ​is​ ​sitting​ ​on​ ​the​ ​table​ ​-​ ​none​ ​should​ ​be​ ​off​ ​the table.

● Align

​ ​the​ ​tightening​ ​of​ ​each​ ​Y-axis​ ​threaded​ ​rod​ ​so​ ​that​ ​each​ ​Y-corner​ ​is perpendicular ​ ​(facing​ ​upright)​ ​to​ ​the​ ​table​ ​surface.

● Align ​ ​the​ ​tightening​ ​of​ ​each​ ​Y-axis​ ​threaded​ ​rod​ ​so​ ​that​ ​each​ ​M8​ ​threaded​ ​rod​ ​is​ ​at​ ​a right

​ ​angle​ ​to​ ​the​ ​M10​ ​threaded​ ​rods​ ​-​ ​the​ ​Y-axis​ ​must​ ​form​ ​a​ ​perfect​ ​rectangle​ ​when viewed

​ ​from​ ​above​ ​(​pict​.​ ​31).

Pict.

31 Right angle between Y-axis and M8 / M10

rods

54

13.2​ ​Printer​ ​stops​ ​printing​ ​soon​ ​after​ ​start 

Extruder ​ ​is​ ​likely​ ​overheated.​ ​Make​ ​sure​ ​the​ ​​nozzle​​ ​fan​ ​is​ ​working​ ​​properly​.​ ​If​ ​not,​ ​please inspect

​ ​its​ ​connection​ ​according​ ​to​ ​the​ ​assembly​ ​manual.

Pict.

32 Proper wiring of the connectors

 

 

13.3​ ​Printer​ ​can’t​ ​read​ ​SD​ ​card 

First,

​ ​make​ ​sure​ ​that​ ​the​ ​​file​ ​name​​ ​on​ ​the​ ​SD​ ​​does​ ​not​ ​contain​ ​special​ ​characters​​ ​- otherwise ​ ​the​ ​file​ ​could​ ​not​ ​be​ ​displayed​ ​on​ ​LCD.​ ​If​ ​there​ ​is​ ​no​ ​error​ ​in​ ​the​ ​file​ ​name,​ ​check the ​ ​EXT2​ ​wiring​ ​(from​ ​electronics​ ​to​ ​LCD).​ ​If​ ​the​ ​cable​ ​is​ ​connected​ ​​properly​,​ ​try​ ​to​ ​swap​ ​the cables

​.

 

55

13.4​ ​Loose​ ​X-​ ​and/or​ ​Y-axis​ ​belts 

Check ​ ​if​ ​both​ ​belts​ ​are​ ​​properly​​ ​tightened,​ ​loose​ ​belts​ ​would​ ​cause​ ​a​ ​​printer​​ ​malfunction​ ​and prevent

​ ​​proper​​ ​​printing​.​ ​The​ ​easiest​ ​way​ ​to​ ​check​ ​is​ ​​printing​​ ​a​ ​round​ ​object​ ​-​ ​if​ ​any​ ​of​ ​the belts ​ ​are​ ​not​ ​tightened​ ​​properly​​ ​the​ ​result​ ​is​ ​an​ ​irregular​ ​shape​ ​instead​ ​of​ ​a​ ​perfect​ ​circle.

Y-axis ​ ​belt​ ​is​ ​located​ ​under​ ​the​ ​​heatbed​,​ ​X-axis​ ​belt​ ​moves​ ​the​ ​extruder.​ ​See​ ​the​ ​pictures with

​ ​​properly​​ ​tightened​ ​belts.

Pict.

33 A properly tightened Y-axis belt under the heatbed

Pict.

34 A properly tightened X-axis

belt

56

13.5​ ​Detached​ ​cables​ ​to​ ​the​ ​heatbed 

Do ​ ​not​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​use​ ​a​ ​spiral​ ​wrap​ ​on​ ​​heatbed​​ ​​cables​​ ​and​ ​attach​ ​the​ ​​cables​​ ​​properly​​ ​so​ ​they won’t

​ ​restrict​ ​movement​ ​during​ ​printing.

Pict.

35 Cables to be wrapped in a spiral wrap

57

 

 

Print​ ​and​ ​share! 

 

Do​ ​not​ ​forget​ ​to​ ​tag​ ​your​ ​prints​ ​with​ ​#prusai3mk2  while​ ​sharing​ ​so​ ​we​ ​can​ ​find,​ ​pin​ ​and​ ​showcase​ ​them  with​ ​our  

 

 

 

http://www.prusa3d.com/original-prusa-i3-prints/

  

 

 

Happy Printing

:) 

58