Brother 885-X23 Instruction manual

Operation Manual
Sewing Machine
Product Code: 885-X03/X13/X23
Please visit us at http://solutions.brother.com where you can get product
support and answers to frequently asked questions (FAQs).
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IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Please read these safety instructions
before attempting to use the machine.
DANGER - To reduce the
risk of electric shock:
1
Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet immediately after
using, when cleaning, when making
any user servicing adjustments
mentioned in this manual, or if you are
leaving the machine unattended.
and immediately unplug the power
cord.
• When transporting the machine, be
sure to carry it by its handle. Lifting
the machine by any other part may
damage the machine or result in the
machine falling, which could cause
injuries.
• When lifting the machine, be careful
not to make any sudden or careless
movements, otherwise you may
injure your back or knees.
4 Always keep your work area clear:
WARNING
- To reduce the
•
Never operate the machine with any
risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or
injury to persons.
2
Always unplug the machine from
the electrical outlet when making any
adjustments mentioned in the
instruction manual:
• To unplug the machine, switch the
machine to the symbol “O” position
to turn it off, then grasp the plug and
pull it out of the electrical outlet. Do
not pull on the cord.
• Plug the machine directly into the
electrical outlet. Do not use an
extension cord.
• Always unplug your machine if the
power is cut.
3
Never operate this machine if it has
a damaged cord or plug, if it is not
working properly, if it has been
dropped or damaged, or water is spilled
on the unit. Return the machine to the
nearest authorized dealer or service
center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
• While the machine is stored or in use
if you notice anything unusual, such
as an odor, heat, discoloration or
deformation, stop using the machine
1
air openings blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the machine
and foot control free from the build
up of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
• Do not store objects on the foot
controller.
• Do not use extension cords. Plug the
machine directly into the electrical
outlet.
• Never drop or insert any object into
any opening.
• Do not operate where aerosol (spray)
products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
• Do not use the machine near a heat
source, such as a stove or iron;
otherwise, the machine, power cord
or garment being sewn may ignite,
resulting in fire or an electric shock.
• Do not place this machine on an
unstable surface, such as an unsteady
or slanted table, otherwise the
machine may fall, resulting in
injuries.
5
Special care is required when
sewing:
• Always pay close attention to the
needle. Do not use bent or damaged
needles.
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• Keep fingers away from all moving
parts. Special care is required around
the machine needle.
• Switch the machine to the symbol
“O” position to turn it off when
making any adjustments in the needle
area.
• Do not use a damaged or incorrect
needle plate, as it could cause the
needle to break.
• Do not push or pull the fabric when
sewing, and follow careful instruction
when freehand stitching so that you
do not deflect the needle and cause it
to break.
6 This machine is not a toy:
• Your close attention is necessary
when the machine is used by or near
children.
• The plastic bag that this machine was
supplied in should be kept out of the
reach of children or disposed of.
Never allow children to play with the
bag due to the danger of suffocation.
• Do not use outdoors.
7
For a longer service life:
• When storing this machine, avoid
direct sunlight and high humidity
locations. Do not use or store the
machine near a space heater, iron,
halogen lamp, or other hot objects.
• Use only neutral soaps or detergents
to clean the case. Benzene, thinner,
and scouring powders can damage
the case and machine, and should
never be used.
• Always consult the operation manual
when replacing or installing any
assemblies, the presser feet, needle,
or other parts to assure correct
installation.
8 For repair or adjustment:
• If the Light unit (light-emitting diode)
is damaged, it must be replaced by
authorized dealer.
• In the event a malfunction occurs or
adjustment is required, first follow the
troubleshooting table in the back of
the operation manual to inspect and
adjust the machine yourself. If the
problem persists, please consult your
local authorized Brother dealer.
Use this machine only for its intended
use as described in this manual.
Use accessories recommended by the
manufacturer as contained in this
manual.
The contents of this manual and
specifications of this product are
subject to change without notice.
For additional product information,
visit our web site at www.brother.com
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS
This machine is intended
for household use.
This appliance is not intended for use by
persons (including children) with
reduced physical, sensory or mental
capabilities, or lack of experience and
knowledge, unless they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use
of the appliance by a person responsible
for their safety.
Children should be supervised to ensure
that they do not play with the appliance.
FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE,
MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLY
IMPORTANT
• In the event of replacing the plug fuse, use a fuse
approved by ASTA to BS 1362, i.e. carrying the
mark, rating as marked on plug.
• Always replace the fuse cover. Never use plugs with
the fuse cover omitted.
• If the available electrical outlet is not suitable for the
plug supplied with this equipment, you should
contact your authorized dealer to obtain the correct
lead.
2
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CONTENTS
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS ........... 1
3. BUILT-IN STITCHES ................. 27
1. KNOWING YOUR SEWING
MACHINE .................................. 4
Straight stitching ...............................................27
Zigzag stitching ................................................. 27
Blind hem stitching ........................................... 27
Shell tuck stitching ............................................ 29
Elastic stitching ................................................. 29
Double action stitching ..................................... 30
Fagoting ............................................................ 30
Overedge stitching ............................................ 31
Feather stitching ................................................ 31
Triple zigzag stretch stitching ............................ 32
Decorative stitching .......................................... 32
ACCESSORIES ................................................. 4
Optional accessories .......................................... 4
THE MAIN PARTS ........................................... 5
Flat bed attachment ............................................ 5
USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE ................ 6
Connecting plugs ............................................... 6
Main power and sewing light switch .................. 7
Foot controller .................................................... 7
Checking the needle ........................................... 7
Replacing the needle .......................................... 7
Changing the presser foot ................................... 8
THE CONTROLS ............................................. 9
Pattern selection dial .......................................... 9
Stretch stitching .................................................. 9
Patterns and stitch names ................................. 10
Stitch length dial .............................................. 11
Reverse sewing lever ........................................ 11
THREADING THE MACHINE ....................... 12
Winding the bobbin ......................................... 12
Lower threading ............................................... 14
Lower threading (for models equipped with a
quick-set bobbin) ............................................. 15
Upper threading ............................................... 16
Using the needle threader (for models equipped
with a needle threader) ..................................... 18
Drawing up the lower thread ............................ 19
FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE
COMBINATIONS ......................................... 21
2. SEWING BASICS ...................... 22
Please read before sewing ................................ 22
Starting sewing ................................................. 22
Trial sewing ...................................................... 23
Changing the sewing direction ......................... 23
Sewing thick fabrics ......................................... 23
Sewing thin fabrics ........................................... 24
Sewing stretch fabrics ....................................... 24
Stitching cylindrical pieces ............................... 24
Sewing with a twin needle (Option) ................. 24
Thread tension ................................................. 26
3
4. SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND
BUTTONS ............................... 33
Making a buttonhole ......................................... 33
Adjusting buttonholes ....................................... 34
Sewing buttons ................................................. 35
5. USING ATTACHMENTS AND
APPLICATIONS ....................... 36
Zipper insertion ................................................ 36
Gathering .......................................................... 37
Darning ............................................................ 37
Appliqués .........................................................37
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES ........................... 38
Using the blind stitch foot ................................. 38
6. APPENDIX ................................ 40
MAINTENANCE ........................................... 40
Restrictions on oiling ........................................ 40
Precautions on storing the machine .................. 40
Cleaning ........................................................... 40
TROUBLESHOOTING .................................. 42
INDEX .......................................................... 45
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1
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
1
ACCESSORIES
We have designed these accessories to help you easily perform most sewing tasks.
1.
2.
3.
4.
6.
7.
8.
9.
No.
1
2
3
4
5
Part Name
Part Code
Americas
Others
Zigzag foot “J”
(on machine)
Buttonhole foot “A”
Zipper foot “I”
Darning Plate
Button sewing foot “M”
No.
XC4901-021
6
X59369-321
XE9369-001
XC6063-021
XE2137-001
7
8
9
5.
Part Name
Bobbin
(One is on machine)
Needle set
(90/14 needle)
Oval screwdriver
Foot controller
Part Code
Americas
Others
SFB:
SA156
XA5539-151
3-piece set: XE5328-001
2-piece set: XE7064-001
XE5241-001
See page 5
Note
● The included accessories vary depending on the machine model.
Optional accessories
The following are available as optional accessories to be purchased separately. Depending on the model you
purchased, the following accessory may be included with your machine.
1.
No.
1
2
2.
3.
4.
6.
7.
8.
Part Name
Extra spool pin
Twin needle
(2.0/75 needle)
Part Code
Americas
Others
XE2241-001
X57521-021
3
Walking Foot
SA107
4
Quilting Foot
SA129
F034N:
XC2165-002
F005N:
XC1948-002
No.
5.
Part Name
5
1/4-inch Quilting Foot
6
Narrow Hemmer Foot
7
Blind Stitch Foot
8
Quilting guide
Part Code
Americas
Others
F001N:
SA125
XC1944-052
F003N:
SA127
XC1945-002
F018N:
SA134
XC1976-052
F016N:
SA132
XC2215-002
4
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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THE MAIN PARTS
3 2
54
1
6
D
7
C
8
9
0
A
B
1 Bobbin winder (Page 12)
This winds the thread onto the bobbin for use as the
lower thread.
2 Stitch length dial (Page 11)
Rotate the dial to control the stitch length.
3 Spool pin (Page 12, 16)
This holds the spool of thread.
4 Upper tension-control dial (Page 26)
This controls the tension of the upper thread.
5 Thread guide (Page 12, 16)
This is used when winding the thread onto the
bobbin and then threading the machine.
6 Thread take-up lever (Page 17)
7 Thread cutter (Page 23)
Pass the threads through the thread cutter to cut
them.
8 Needle threader (Page 18)
(This is only available on certain models.)
9 Quick-set bobbin (Page 15, 20)
(This is only available on certain models.)
0 Flat bed attachment with accessory compartment
(Page 5)
A Presser foot (Page 8)
B Reverse sewing lever (Page 11)
Push this lever to stitch in the reverse direction.
C Pattern selection dial (Page 9)
Rotate the dial in either direction to choose the
stitch you want.
D Handwheel
Used to manually raise and lower the needle.
E Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw (Page 34)
F Main power and sewing light switch (Page 7)
You can turn the main power and sewing light
switch on and off.
G Foot controller jack / socket (Page 6)
Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the
machine to the power supply.
5
E
I
F
G
H
H Presser foot lever (Page 16)
Used to raise and lower the presser foot.
I Foot controller (Page 7)
You can use this to control the sewing speed, and to
start and stop sewing.
Foot Controller: Model KD-1902 for 110/120V area
Model KD-2902 for 220/240V area
The foot controller part code differs depending on the
country or region. Contact your dealer or the nearest
authorized service center.
Flat bed attachment
The accessories can be stored in a compartment inside
the flat bed attachment.
1
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
open it.
1
2
1 Flat bed attachment
2 Storage compartment
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USING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
1
WARNING
● Use only regular household electricity for the power source. Using other power sources may
result in fire, electric shock, or damage to the machine.
● Make sure that the plugs on the power cord are firmly inserted into the electrical outlet and
the power supply jack on the machine.
● Do not insert the plug on the power cord into an electrical outlet that is in poor condition.
● Turn off the main power and remove the plug in the following circumstances:
•
•
•
•
•
When you are away from the machine
After using the machine
When the power fails during use
When the machine does not operate correctly due to a bad connection or a disconnection
During electrical storms
CAUTION
● Use only the power cord included with this machine.
● Do not use extension cords or multi-plug adapters with many other appliances plugged in to
them. Fire or electric shock may result.
● Do not touch the plug with wet hands. Electric shock may result.
● When unplugging the machine, always turn off the main power first. Always grasp the plug to
remove it from the outlet. Pulling on the cord may damage the cord, or lead to fire or electric
shock.
● Do not allow the power cord to be cut, damaged, modified, forcefully bent, pulled, twisted,
or bundled. Do not place heavy objects on the cord. Do not subject the cord to heat. These
things may damage the cord and cause fire or electric shock. If the cord or plug is damaged,
take the machine to your authorized dealer for repairs before continuing use.
● Unplug the power cord if the machine is not to be used for a long period of time. Otherwise
a fire may result.
Connecting plugs
Note
1
Connect the foot controller plug to the
machine.
2
Connect the power supply plug to a wall
outlet.
2
1
● If a power outage occurs while the sewing
machine is being operated, turn off the main
power and unplug the power supply cord.
When restarting the sewing machine, follow
the necessary procedure to correctly operate
the machine.
(For U.S.A. only)
● This appliance has a polarized plug (one
blade wider than the other). To reduce the
risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to
fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the
plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse
the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a qualified
electrician to install the proper outlet. Do
not modify the plug in any way.
6
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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Main power and sewing
light switch
Checking the needle
This switch turns the main power and sewing light on or
off.
The sewing needle must always be straight and sharp
for smooth sewing.
1
2
■ Checking the needle correctly
Put the flat side of the needle on a flat surface.
Check the needle from the top and the sides.
Dispose of any bent needles safely.
1 Turn on (toward the ‘I’ mark)
2 Turn off (toward the ‘O’ mark)
1
Foot controller
2
When you press the foot controller down lightly, the
machine will run at a low speed. When you press
harder, the machine’s speed will increase. When you
take your foot off the foot controller, the machine will
stop.
1 Parallel space
2 Level surface (bobbin cover, glass, etc.)
Replacing the needle
CAUTION
1
2
1 Slower
2 Faster
You should make sure that nothing is placed on the foot
controller when the machine is not in use.
CAUTION
● Always turn off the machine before you
change the needle. Otherwise, injuries
may occur if the foot controller is
accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.
● Only use sewing machine needles for
home use. Other needles may bend or
break and cause injury.
● Never sew with a bent needle. A bent
needle will easily break and cause injury.
● Do not allow pieces of cloth and dust to
1
Turn off the machine.
build up on the foot controller. Doing so
could cause a fire or an electric shock.
2
Raise the needle by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
3
Lower the presser foot lever.
Note
(For U.S.A. only)
● Foot Controller: Model KD-1902
This foot controller can be used on the
machine with product code 885-X13.
The product code is mentioned on the
machine rating plate.
1
1 Presser foot lever
7
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CAUTION
CAUTION
● Before replacing the needle, place fabric
4
Hold the needle with your left hand, and
then use an oval screwdriver to turn the
needle clamp screw counterclockwise to
remove the needle.
1
● Make sure you insert the needle until it
or paper under the presser foot to
prevent the needle from falling into the
hole in the needle plate.
touches the stopper, and securely tighten
the needle clamp screw with an oval
screwdriver, otherwise the needle may
break or the machine may be damaged.
Changing the presser foot
CAUTION
● Always turn off the machine before you
2 1
1 Use an oval screwdriver
2 Needle clamp screw
• Do not use excessive force when loosening
or tightening the needle clamp screw,
otherwise certain parts of the sewing
machine may be damaged.
With the flat side of the needle toward the
5 back of the machine, insert the needle
until it touches the needle stopper. Next,
tighten the needle clamp using an oval
screwdriver.
change the presser foot. If you leave the
power on and step on the controller, the
machine will start and you may be
injured.
● Always use the correct presser foot for
the stitch pattern you have chosen. If
you use the wrong presser foot, the
needle may strike the presser foot and
bend or break, and may cause injury.
● Only use presser feet that have been
designed to be used with this machine.
Using any other presser foot may cause
accident or injury.
You will have to change the presser foot depending on
what you want to sew and how.
1
Turn off the machine.
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
Raise the needle by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
3
Press the black button at the back of the
presser foot holder to release the presser
foot.
2
3
1
1 Use an oval
screwdriver
2 Needle stopper
3 Needle
Install the twin needle in the same way.
1
2
3
4
1 Black button
2 Presser foot holder
3 Presser foot
Put a different presser foot on the needle
plate so that the bar on the presser foot is
in line with the slot on the shank.
8
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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5
Lower the presser foot lever and fix the
presser foot onto the shank. If the presser
foot is in the correct place, the bar should
snap in.
1
■ Presser foot installation orientation
2
CAUTION
1 Shank
2 Bar
● If the presser foot is not installed with
the correct orientation, the needle may
strike the presser foot, which may bend
or break the needle and cause injury.
THE CONTROLS
Pattern selection dial
CAUTION
● When you use the pattern selection dial
to choose a pattern, raise the needle by
turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up. If the needle is in
the down position when you turn the
pattern selection dial, the needle, presser
foot or fabric may be damaged.
To choose a stitch, simply turn the pattern selection dial
in either direction. The next section shows
recommended stitch lengths.
2
1
1 Pattern selection dial
2 Chosen pattern number
9
Stretch stitching
Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on the wheel points
up.
Setting the stitch length dial to “
selected pattern to a stretch stitch.
” changes the
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Patterns and stitch names
1
■ 25 Stitches
1
Pattern
Stitch Name
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
Recommended
Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
Reference
Page
Pattern
Stitch Name
Recommended
Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
8
1
F-2.5 (1/64-3/32)
F-1.5 (1/64-1/16)
33
4-STEP AUTOMATIC
BUTTONHOLE
2
ELASTIC STITCH
5 (3/16)
9
—
STRETCH BLIND
HEM STITCH
F-1.5 (1/64-1/16)
5 (3/16)
10
F-1.5 (1/64-1/16)
3
1-4 (1/16-3/16)
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
4
ZIGZAG STITCH
5
ZIGZAG STITCH
6
ZIGZAG STITCH
27, 36, 37,
38
27, 35, 37,
38
1.5 (1/16)
BEAD STITCH
32
5 (3/16)
F-1.5 (1/64-1/16)
32
5 (3/16)
12
F-3 (1/64-1/8)
30
F-4 (1/64-3/16)
27, 35, 37,
38
3.5 (1/8)
F-4 (1/64-3/16)
27, 35, 37,
38
5 (3/16)
7
F-3 (1/64-1/8)
SHELL TUCK STITCH
SCALLOP STITCH
11
—
F-4 (1/64-3/16)
29
5 (3/16)
27, 38
1-4 (1/16-3/16)
27, 37
STRAIGHT STITCH
(Left Needle Position)
Reference
Page
5 (3/16)
29
DOUBLE ACTION
STITCH
13
BRIDGING STITCH
14
TRIPLE STRETCH
STITCH
(Left Needle Position)
5 (3/16)
F-3 (1/64-1/8)
30
5 (3/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
27
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10
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Pattern
Stitch Name
15
TRIPLE STRETCH
STITCH
(Center Needle
Position)
16
TRIPLE ZIGZAG
STRETCH STITCH
17
TRIPLE ZIGZAG
STRETCH STITCH
18
TRIPLE ZIGZAG
STRETCH STITCH
19
ELASTIC OVERLOCK
STITCH
20
FEATHER STITCH
21
COMB STITCH
22
DECORATIVE
STITCH
23
DECORATIVE
STITCH
24
FAGOTING STITCH
25
DECORATIVE
STITCH
11
Recommended
Length
(mm (inch))
Preset Width
(mm (inch))
Reference
Page
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
27
—
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
32
1.5 (1/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
Stitch length dial
Depending on the selected stitch, you may need to
adjust the stitch length for best results.
The numbers marked on the stitch length dial represent
the stitch length in millimeters (mm) (1/25 inch).
THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE LONGER THE
STITCH. With the “0” setting, material is not fed. This is
used when sewing a button.
The “F”-“1” range is for making a satin stitch (closed
zigzag stitch), which is used for making buttonholes
and decorative stitches. The position needed for making
the satin stitch varies according to the material and
thread being used. To determine the exact dial position,
first test the stitch and length settings on a scrap piece of
fabric to observe the feeding of the material.
1
32
2
3.5 (1/8)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
3
1
32
5 (3/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
31
1 Stitch length dial
2 Shorter
3 Longer
5 (3/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
CAUTION
31
5 (3/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
31
● If the stitches are bunched together,
lengthen the stitch length and continue
sewing. Do not continue sewing without
lengthening the stitch length, otherwise
the needle may break and cause injury.
5 (3/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
Reverse sewing lever
32
5 (3/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
32
5 (3/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
30
1
5 (3/16)
Fixed 2.5
(3/32)
You can use reverse sewing for back tacking and
reinforcing seams.
To sew in reverse, push the reverse sewing lever in as
far as possible and hold it in that position while you
lightly push the foot controller. To sew forward, release
the reverse sewing lever. The machine will then sew
forward.
30
5 (3/16)
1 Reverse sewing lever
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THREADING THE MACHINE
1
Winding the bobbin
CAUTION
● We designed the bobbin that comes with this machine. If you use bobbins from other models,
the machine will not work properly. Only use the bobbin that comes with this machine or
bobbins of the same type (part code: SA156, SFB: XA5539-151). Using other bobbins may
cause damage to the machine.
Actual size
11.5 mm
(7/16 inch)
This model
Other models
1
2
1 Pull the thread
in completely.
1 Pre-tension disk
3
2 Bobbin winder shaft
3 Bobbin
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of
1 thread on this pin.
1
2
While holding the thread from the spool
with your right hand, pass the thread
toward you, in the groove on the thread
guide. Then, pass the thread around the
pre-tension disk and pull the thread in
completely.
1 Pre-tension disk
CAUTION
● If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread
may tangle on the spool pin.
12
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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3
Pass the end of the thread through the
hole on the bobbin from the inside of the
bobbin.
7
Trim the excess thread above the bobbin.
• Leave 1 cm (1/2 inch) of thread from the hole
on the bobbin.
1
4
Put the bobbin onto the bobbin winder
shaft and slide the bobbin winder shaft to
the right. Turn the bobbin clockwise, by
hand, until the spring on the shaft slides
into the notch of the bobbin.
• Make sure to pull out 7 to 10 cm (3-4 inches)
of thread from the hole on the bobbin.
3
1
2
1 1 cm (1/2 inch)
CAUTION
● Make sure you follow the instructions
carefully. If you do not cut the excess
thread completely before winding the
bobbin, when the thread runs low it may
tangle around the bobbin and cause the
needle to break.
8
Press the foot controller to start.
9
When the bobbin seems full and begins
spinning slowly, take your foot off the foot
controller.
0
Cut the thread, slide the bobbin winder
shaft to the left and remove the bobbin.
1 Spring on the shaft
2 Notch
3 7-10 cm (3 – 4 inches)
CAUTION
● Pull the thread taut and hold the end of
the thread straight up. If the thread is too
short, not pulled taut or held at an angle,
injuries may occur when the thread is
wound around the bobbin.
5
Turn on the machine.
6
While holding the end of the thread,
gently press the foot controller to wind
the thread around the bobbin a few times.
Then stop the machine.
13
Note
● When the sewing machine is started or the
handwheel is turned after winding the
thread around the bobbin, the machine will
make a clicking sound; this is not a
malfunction.
● The needle bar does not move when you
slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.
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4
CAUTION
Put the bobbin in so the thread comes out
in the direction shown by the arrow.
1
● Not winding the bobbin properly may
cause the thread tension to loosen, and
may break the needle.
1
CAUTION
2
1 Wound evenly
2 Wound poorly
● Make sure you set the bobbin so the
thread unrolls in the right direction. If
the thread unrolls in the wrong
direction, it may cause the thread
tension to be incorrect or break the
needle.
Lower threading
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
• For more details on using the quick-set
bobbin, see page 15.
CAUTION
● Make sure you turn off the machine
while threading. If you accidentally step
on the foot controller and the machine
starts to sew, you could be injured.
1
5
Hold the end of the thread, push the
bobbin down with your finger, and then
pass the thread through the slit, as shown.
• If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
Prepare the bobbin wound properly
before threading the lower thread.
• See page 12 for the details about bobbin
winding.
2
Raise the needle by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and raise the presser
foot lever.
3
Remove the bobbin cover by sliding it and
lift toward you.
1
1
1 Tension-adjusting spring
1 Bobbin cover
14
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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6
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the
projection into the race retainer groove
and push closed.
Note
● If the thread is not correctly inserted through
the tension-adjusting spring of the bobbin
case, it may cause incorrect thread tension.
1
2
1 Groove
2 Projection
• Make sure that the end of the thread comes
out from the cover toward the rear of the
machine (as shown in the illustration).
• Draw up the lower thread before starting
sewing. Refer to “Drawing up the lower
thread” on page 19 after threading the upper
thread.
1
1 Tension-adjusting spring
Lower threading (for
models equipped with a
quick-set bobbin)
3
Replace the bobbin cover. Put the
projection into the race retainer groove
and push closed.
Install the bobbin wound with thread.
This feature is only available on certain models.
1
Follow steps to
from “Lower
threading” on page 14.
2
While lightly holding down the bobbin
with your right hand as shown, guide the
thread through the slit (1 and 2). Then,
pull the thread toward you to cut it with
the cutter (3).
1
4
1
2
• At this time, check that the bobbin easily
rotates counterclockwise.
1 Groove
2 Projection
2
1
2
3
1
1 Slit
2 Cutter (Cut the thread with the cutter.)
15
• Start sewing after threading the lower and
upper thread. When sewing gathers or darts,
you can draw up the lower thread by hand so
that some thread will be left over. Refer to the
steps in “Drawing up the lower thread”
(page 19).
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Upper threading
1
1
2
2
5
3
4
1 Spool pin
2 Thread guide (back)
3 Thread guide (front)
4 Thread take-up lever
5 Mark on the handwheel
CAUTION
● When threading the upper thread, carefully follow the instructions. If the upper threading is
not correct, the thread may become tangled or the needle may bend or break.
● Never use a thread weight of 20 or lower.
● Use the needle and the thread in the correct combination. For details on the correct
combination of needles and threads, refer to “FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE
COMBINATIONS” on page 21.
1
Turn off the machine.
2
Raise the presser foot lever.
4
Pull up the spool pin and put a spool of
thread on this pin.
1
CAUTION
1 Presser foot lever
Raise the needle by turning the
3 handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
● If the spool of thread is in the wrong
place, or is set incorrectly, the thread
may tangle on the spool pin and cause
the needle to break.
• If the needle is not correctly raised, the
sewing machine can not be threaded.
1
1 Mark on the wheel
16
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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5
While holding the thread from the spool
with your right hand, pass the thread
toward you, in the groove on the thread
guide.
8
Put the thread behind the guide above the
needle.
• The thread can easily be passed behind the
needle bar thread guide by holding the
thread in your left hand, then feeding the
thread with your right hand.
• Make sure that the spring in the groove
catches the thread.
1
1
1 Spring
Feed the upper thread as shown in the
6 following illustration.
1 Needle bar thread guide
Make sure you guide the thread through
7 the thread take-up lever from right to left
as shown in the following illustration.
1
1
1 Thread take-up lever
Memo
● If the thread take-up lever is lowered, the
upper thread can not be wrapped around
the thread take-up lever. Make sure you
raise the needle by turning the handwheel
toward you (counterclockwise) so that the
mark on the wheel points up.
17
9
Thread the needle from front to back
leaving a thread tail of about 5 cm
(2 inches).
• If your sewing machine is equipped with a
needle threader, use the needle threader to
thread the needle (see next section).
1
1 5 cm (2 inches)
Note
● Make sure you raise the presser foot lever
and the thread take-up lever before you feed
the upper thread.
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
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Using the needle threader
(for models equipped with
a needle threader)
1
This feature is only available on certain models.
CAUTION
1
2
● The needle threader can be used with a
75/11 through 100/16 home sewing
machine needle. However, the needle
threader cannot be used with a 65/9
home sewing machine needle. When
using special thread such as transparent
nylon thread or metallic thread, the
needle threader cannot be used.
● Thread with a thickness of 130/120 or
thicker cannot be used with the needle
threader.
● The needle threader cannot be used with
the wing needle or the twin needle.
● If the needle threader cannot be used,
refer to “Upper threading” on page 16.
1
Follow steps
to
from “Upper
threading” on page 16 before using the
needle threader.
2
Lower the presser foot lever.
3
Make sure that the mark on the wheel
points up as shown in the following
illustration.
1
3
1 Needle holder
2 Needle threader lever
3 Guide
5
Pull down the needle threader lever as
much as possible, and then turn the lever
toward the back of the machine (away
from you). Make sure that the hook passes
through the eye of the needle and grabs
the thread.
8
1
1
1 Mark on the wheel
4
While lowering the needle threader lever,
hook the thread onto the guide.
2
12
1 Hook
2 Thread
• Hold the thread in front of the needle to
make sure that the hook grabs it.
1
1 Needle holder
2 Needle threader lever
18
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6
While lightly holding the thread, turn the
needle threader lever toward the front of
the machine (toward you). The hook will
pull the thread through the needle.
0
Pass the end of the thread through the
presser foot, and then pull out about 5 cm
(2 inches) of thread toward the rear of the
machine.
1
1 5 cm (2 inches)
Note
7
Raise the needle threader lever.
● If you incorrectly feed the thread you may
cause sewing problems.
Drawing up the lower
thread
8
Pull the loop of the thread passed through
the eye of the needle toward the rear of
the machine.
1
While lightly holding the end of the upper
thread, slowly turn the handwheel toward
you (counterclockwise) by hand to lower
and then raise the needle.
2
Pull on the upper thread to draw up the
lower thread.
1
1 Loop of thread
CAUTION
● Be careful not to pull on the thread with
force or it may bend the needle.
● If the thread does not pass through the
eye of the needle, start from step
again.
9
3
1
Raise the presser foot lever.
2
1
2
1 Upper thread
2 Lower thread
19
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3
Pull out about 10 cm (4 inches) of both
threads and put them toward the back of
the machine under the presser foot.
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2
1 Upper thread
2 Lower thread
■ For models equipped with a quick-set
bobbin
You can begin sewing immediately without drawing
up the bobbin thread.
When sewing gathers or darts, you can draw up the
lower thread by hand so that some thread will be
left over. Before you draw up the lower thread, put
the bobbin back in.
1
Remove the bobbin cover, and then
reinstall the bobbin.
2
Pass the thread along the slit in the
direction of the arrow, and leave it there
without cutting it.
• The bobbin cover should still be removed.
Draw up the lower thread as described in
3 the previous steps
to .
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3
Replace the bobbin cover.
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KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE —
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FABRIC, THREAD, AND NEEDLE COMBINATIONS
Fabric Type/Application
Medium weight
fabrics
Thin fabrics
Thread
Broadcloth
Taffeta
Flannel, Gabardine
Lawn
Georgette
Challis, Satin
Type
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
Denim
Cotton thread
Corduroy
Tweed
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
50–60
Thread for knits
50–60
Thick fabrics
Stretch fabrics
Jersey
Tricot
Cotton thread
Easily frayed fabrics
For top-stitching
Synthetic thread
Size
60–90
Size of Needle
75/11–90/14
50
60–90
50
30
50
50–90
65/9–75/11
100/16
90/14–100/16
Ball point needle
75/11–90/14
(gold colored)
65/9–90/14
Silk thread
50
Synthetic thread
Silk thread
30
100/16
50–60
75/11–90/14
Note
● Never use a thread weighted #20 or lower. It may cause machine malfunction.
Memo
● The lower the thread number, the thicker the thread; and the higher the needle number, the thicker the
needle.
■ Ball point needle
Use the ball point needle when sewing on stretch fabrics or fabrics where skipped stitches easily occur.
The factory recommended needle is “HG-4BR” (Organ). Schmetz needles “JERSEY BALL POINT” 130/705H SUK
90/14 may be used as a substitute.
■ Transparent nylon thread
Use a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.
CAUTION
● Make sure you follow the needle, thread, and fabric combinations listed in the table.
Using the wrong combination, such as heavyweight fabric like denim with a small needle
(65/9-75/11), may bend or break the needle. The wrong combination may also cause the seam
to be uneven, the fabric to pucker, or the machine to skip stitches.
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2
SEWING BASICS
Please read before sewing
CAUTION
2
● To avoid being injured, watch the needle carefully while you are using the machine. Keep
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your hands away from moving parts.
Do not stretch or pull the fabric during sewing, otherwise the needle may be damaged and
you may be injured.
Do not use bent or broken needles, otherwise you may be injured.
Take care that the needle does not hit basting pins or other objects during sewing. The needle
may break and you may be injured.
Always use the correct presser foot. If you use the wrong presser foot, the needle may hit the
presser foot and bend or break and you may be injured.
When you turn the handwheel by hand, always turn it toward you (counterclockwise).
Turning it the other way may cause the thread to tangle and damage the needle or fabric, and
you may be injured.
Do not start sewing without placing the fabric under the presser foot, otherwise the presser
foot may be damaged.
Starting sewing
1
5
Raise the presser foot lever.
Turn on the machine.
1
1 Presser foot lever
2
Raise the needle by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
3
Turn the pattern selection dial to select a
stitch (see page 9 - 10).
4
Change the presser foot (see page 8).
Place the fabric under the presser foot,
6 pass the thread under the presser foot,
and then pull out about 5 cm (2 inches) of
thread toward the rear of the machine.
1
1 5 cm (2 inches)
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SEWING BASICS —
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7
While holding the end of the thread and
the fabric with your left hand, turn the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) with your right hand
to lower the needle to the starting point of
the stitching.
Trial sewing
A trial piece of fabric should be sewn. Use a piece of
fabric and thread that are the same as those used for
your project, and check the thread tension and stitch
length and width.
Changing the sewing
direction
8
Lower the presser foot lever.
1 Presser foot lever
9
Stop the machine with the needle in the fabric at the
point where you want to change the sewing direction,
and then raise the presser foot lever. Using the needle
as a pivot, turn the fabric, lower the presser foot lever,
and then continue sewing.
1
1
2
Slowly press down on the foot controller.
Sewing thick fabrics
■ If the fabric does not fit under the presser
foot
X The machine starts sewing.
Take your foot off the foot controller.
0 X The machine stops sewing.
If the fabric does not fit easily under the presser foot,
raise the presser foot lever even higher to bring the
presser foot to its highest position.
• You can use reverse sewing for back tacking
and reinforcing seams by pressing the reverse
sewing lever. Refer to “Reverse sewing lever”
on page 11 for the details.
a
Raise the needle by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise).
b
Raise the presser foot lever.
c
Pull the fabric to the left side of the
machine, and then pass the threads
through the thread cutter to cut them.
.
1
1 Thread cutter
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CAUTION
● If fabric more than 6 mm (15/64 inch)
thick is sewn or if the fabric is pushed
with too much force, the needle may
bend or break.
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Sewing thin fabrics
Note
When sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become
misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If this
occurs, place thin paper or stabilizer material under the
fabric and sew it together with the fabric. When you
have finished sewing, tear off any excess paper.
● When you are finished with free-arm
sewing, install the flat bed attachment back
in its original position.
2
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto
the arm, and then sew from the top.
1
1 Stabilizer material or paper
Sewing stretch fabrics
First, baste the pieces of fabric together, and then sew
without stretching the fabric.
Sewing with a twin needle
(Option)
We have designed your machine so you can sew with
this needle and two top threads. You can use the same
color or two different colors of thread for making
decorative stitches.
1
1 Basting
1 Twin needle
Stitching cylindrical
pieces
Removing the flat bed attachment makes it easier to sew
cylindrical pieces such as cuffs and pant legs, or hardto-reach areas.
1
Slide the flat bed attachment to the left to
release it.
2 Extra spool pin
CAUTION
● Use only twin needles that have been
made for this machine (part code:
X57521-021:2.0/75 with a 2 mm width).
Other needles could break and damage
the machine.
● Make sure that the needle does not strike
the presser foot.
● Do not sew with bent needles. The
needle could break and injure you.
■ Attaching the twin needle
1
1 Flat bed attachment
Attach the twin needle in the same way as a single
needle (see page 7–8). The flat side of the needle
should face toward the back and the rounded side
should face toward you.
X With the flat bed attachment removed,
free-arm sewing is possible.
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2
SEWING BASICS —
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■ Attaching the extra spool pin
Insert the extra spool pin onto the end of the bobbin
winder shaft. Install the second thread spool onto
the extra spool pin.
3
2
1
1 Bobbin winder shaft
2 Extra spool pin
3 Thread spool
You should thread each needle separately.
Note
Models equipped with a needle threader
● You cannot use the needle threader to
thread the twin needle. Instead, thread the
twin needle by hand, from front to back.
Using the needle threader may damage the
machine.
Thread the left needle.
2
Thread the right needle.
Follow the same instructions for threading a
single needle (see page 16).
Thread the right needle in the same way that
you threaded the left needle using the thread
from the spool on the extra spool pin, but do not
pass the thread through the guide above the
needle before you pass it through the eye of the
right needle.
3
1
2
1 Left needle thread passes through the needle
bar thread guide
2 Right needle thread passes in front of the needle
bar thread guide
3 Needle bar thread guide
25
to “Changing the presser foot” on page 8.
CAUTION
● When using the twin needle, be sure to
attach zigzag foot “J”, otherwise the
needle may break or the machine may be
damaged.
■ Twin needle threading
1
Attach zigzag foot “J”.
3 For details on changing the presser foot, refer
4
Turn on the machine.
5
Select a stitch.
CAUTION
● After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the presser foot. If
the needle hits the presser foot, the
needle may bend or break.
● The twin needle should only be used
with the Straight Stitch (Center Needle
Position), the Zigzag Stitch (1.5 mm
(1/16 inch)), the Triple Stretch Stitch
(Center Needle Position), and the Triple
Zigzag Stretch Stitch (1.5 mm
(1/16 inch)). Do not use the twin needle
with any other stitches.
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Start sewing.
6 For details on starting to sew, refer to “Starting
■ Upper tension is too tight
Loops will appear on the surface of the fabric.
sewing” on page 22.
X Two lines of stitching are sewn parallel to
each other.
Note
● If the bobbin thread was incorrectly
threaded, the upper thread may be too tight.
In this case, refer to “Lower threading” on
page 14 and rethread the bobbin thread.
Note
● When using the twin needle, the stitches
may become bunched together, depending
on the types of thread and fabric that are
used. If this occurs, increase the stitch
length. For details on adjusting the stitch
length, refer to “Stitch length dial” on
page 11.
2
2
1
3
4
5
1
2
3
4
5
Surface of fabric
Back of fabric
Upper thread
Lower thread
Loops appear on
surface of fabric
Solution
Reduce the tension by turning the upper tension
control dial to a lower number.
CAUTION
● When changing the sewing direction, be
sure to raise the needle from the fabric,
and then raise the presser foot lever and
turn the fabric. Otherwise the needle
may break or the machine may be
damaged.
■ Upper tension is too loose
Loops appear on the back of the fabric.
Note
● If the upper thread was incorrectly threaded,
the upper thread may be too loose. In this
case, refer to “Upper threading” on page 16
and rethread the upper thread.
Thread tension
The tension of the thread will affect the quality of your
stitches. You may need to adjust it when you change
fabric or thread.
2
5
Memo
● We recommend that you do a test sample
on scrap of a fabric before you start to sew.
1
3
■ Correct tension
Correct tension is important as too much or too little
tension will weaken your seams or cause puckers
on your fabric.
4
1
2
3
4
5
Surface of fabric
Back of fabric
Upper thread
Lower thread
Loops appear on back
of fabric
Solution
Increase the tension by turning the upper tension
control dial to a higher number.
2
1
3
4
1
2
3
4
Surface of fabric
Back of fabric
Upper thread
Lower thread
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3
BUILT-IN STITCHES
■ Zigzag stitch
Straight stitching
Turn the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag Stitch,
and then start sewing.
Straight stitches are used for sewing plain seams.
Stitch Name
Pattern
Straight Stitch
(Left Needle Position)
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
2
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
3
Triple Stretch Stitch
(Left Needle Position)
14
Triple Stretch Stitch
(Center Needle Position)
15
1-4
(1/16-3/16)
1-4
(1/16-3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
We recommend that you sew using the Straight
Stitch at the beginning and end of zigzag stitches.
(This acts as a reinforcement stitch.)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
■ Satin stitch
■ Top stitching and stretch materials
You can use a straight stitch for top stitching and
sewing lightweight fabrics.
You can use a triple stretch stitch for sewing stretch
fabrics.
Setting the Zigzag Stitch length in the “F”-“1” range
produces a satin stitch (close zigzag stitch). The
Satin Stitch can be used for making buttonholes and
decorative stitches. Set the pattern selection dial to
the Zigzag Stitch, set the stitch length in the “F”-“1”
range.
Zigzag stitching
Blind hem stitching
Stitch Name
Stitch
Stitch Width
Pattern
Length
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
4
Zigzag Stitch
5
Zigzag Stitch
6
Zigzag Stitch
F-4
(1/64-3/16)
1.5 (1/16)
F-4
(1/64-3/16)
3.5 (1/8)
F-4
(1/64-3/16)
5 (3/16)
Stitch Name
Pattern
Stretch Blind
Hem Stitch
9
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
F-1.5
(1/64-1/16)
3 (1/8)
You can use the Blind Hem Stitch to finish the edge of a
project, like the hem of a pair of trousers, without the
stitch showing.
Memo
● When the size of cylindrical pieces is too
small to slide onto the arm or the length is
too short, the fabric will not feed and
desired results may not be achieved.
27
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1
Reverse the skirt or pants.
2
3
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4
2
4
4
1
6
4
1
1
3
2
<Seen
1
4
5
2
1
2
1
2
6
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
5
1
4
1
1
Use a chalk to mark on the fabric about 5
mm (3/16 inch) from the edge of the
fabric, and then baste it.
3
<Thick fabric>
<Seen from the side>
from the side>
1 Wrong side of
fabric
2 Right side of
fabric
3 Edge of fabric
4 Basting stitching
5 5 mm (3/16 inch)
6 Desired edge of
hem
1 Wrong side of
fabric
2 Edge of fabric
3 Basting
4 5 mm (3/16 inch)
5 Desired edge of
hem
6 Right side of
fabric
7 Basting point
Unfold the edge of fabric, and position the
5 fabric with the wrong side facing up.
<Normal fabric>
3
7
1
<Thick fabric>
2
1
3
1
Fold the fabric along the desired edge of
the hem, and press.
1 Wrong side of
fabric
2 Right side of
fabric
3 Edge of fabric
4 Desired edge of
hem
Fold back the fabric inside along the
basting.
2
5
Wrong side of fabric
Right side of fabric
Bottom side
Edge of fabric
2
3
4
3
1
6
2
1
1 Wrong side of
fabric
2 Right side of
fabric
3 Basting
4 Edge of fabric
5 Desired edge of
hem
6 Basting point
<Thick fabric>
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
6
Remove the flat bed attachment and make
free-arm sewing possible.
• For details on free-arm sewing, refer to
“Stitching cylindrical pieces” (Page 24).
7
Slide the part that you wish to sew onto
the arm, make sure that the fabric feeds
correctly, and then start sewing.
1
<Normal fabric>
<Seen from the side>
1 Arm
After selecting a stitch, slowly turn the
8 handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) until the needle has
moved from the right side to the left.
28
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9
Position the fabric under the presser foot,
and then adjust the fabric position until
the needle slightly catches the fold of the
hem when the needle comes to the left
end of the stitch.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Fold of hem
3 Needle drop point
2
Place the fabric under the presser foot so
that it will be sewn along the bias, with
the straight stitches sewn on the seamline
and the zigzag stitches sewn slightly over
the folded edge.
3
Sew at a slow speed.
1
1
2
2 3
1 Needle
2 Needle drop point
3 Fold of hem
1
2
1 Straight stitches
2 Zigzag stitches
Elastic stitching
3
0
Lower the presser foot lever.
a
Sew at a slow speed holding the fabric
with your hands, so that the needle
slightly catches the fold of the hem.
Stitch Name
Remove the basting stitching and turn the
b fabric right side up.
Pattern
8
Elastic Stitch
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)]
[mm (inch)]
F-2.5
(1/64-3/32)
5 (3/16)
You can use the Elastic Stitch for mending, sewing
elastic or joining fabric. Each is explained below.
■ Mending
2
1
1
Place the reinforcement fabric under the
area you want to mend.
• Use the basting pins to hold the
reinforcement fabric.
1 Wrong side of fabric
2 Right side of fabric
Shell tuck stitching
Stitch Name
Shell Tuck
Stitch
Pattern
7
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
F-3
(1/64-1/8)
5 (3/16)
The Shell Tuck Stitch can be used to sew a picot (lacelike) edge on lightweight fabric.
1
29
Adjust the thread tension so that it is
tighter than normal.
2
Following the line of the tear, sew using
the Elastic Stitch as shown.
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■ Sewing elastic
1
Pin the elastic tape to the wrong side of
the fabric.
2
As you sew, stretch the elastic in front of
and behind the presser foot.
Double action stitching
Stitch Name
Pattern
12
Double Action
Stitch
13
Bridging Stitch
■ Joining fabric
You can use the Elastic Stitch to join two pieces of
fabric together and it is very effective when sewing
knitted fabrics. If you are using nylon thread, the
stitch will not be visible.
1
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)]
[mm (inch)]
F-3
(1/64-1/8)
5 (3/16)
F-3
(1/64-1/8)
5 (3/16)
These stitches are used for joining two pieces of fabric,
such as when making patchwork.
Example: Patchwork with Double Action Stitch
1
Put the edge of the two pieces of fabric
together and center them under the
presser foot.
2
Sew them together using the Elastic Stitch.
2 Make sure you keep the two fabric edges
close together.
3
• Use the basting pins to hold the two fabric
edges close together.
1 Desired seamline
2 Straight Stitch
3 Double Action Stitch
Fagoting
Stitch Name
Pattern
Fagoting
Stitch
24
Decorative
Stitch
25
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)]
[mm (inch)]
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
5 (3/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
5 (3/16)
These stitches are used to join two pieces of fabric
while leaving a space between their edges. This stitch is
more decorative when thicker thread is used.
1
Use an iron to fold the two pieces of
fabric along their seams.
30
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2
Baste the two pieces of fabric, separated
by about 2 mm (1/16 inch), onto thin
paper or a sheet of water-soluble
stabilizer.
1
This stitch works best with a seam allowance
of approximately 5 mm (3/16 inch) as this
allows the right (zigzag) side of the stitch to
overlock the cut edge of the fabric.
4
1
2
1
2
3
4
3
Put the fabric under the presser foot so
that the seamline (or arrowhead point) is
approximately 3 mm (1/8 inch) to the left
of the center of the presser foot.
1
2
3
Thin paper or water soluble stabilizer
Draw a line down the middle
Basting stitching
2 mm (1/16 inch)
Sew with the center of the presser foot
aligned along the center of the two pieces
of fabric.
1 5 mm (3/16 inch)
2 3 mm (1/8 inch)
• If the seam allowance is wider than the stitch
pattern, trim away any excess fabric after
stitching.
Feather stitching
4
After sewing is finished, remove the paper
and the basting stitches.
Pattern
Elastic Overlock
Stitch
19
21
Comb Stitch
Pattern
20
Overedge stitching
Stitch Name
Stitch Name
Feather Stitch
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
5 (3/16)
Use the Feather Stitch as a decorative top stitch when
embroidering or when hemming blankets, tablecloths,
or draperies.
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
5 (3/16)
1
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
5 (3/16)
2 The stitch will prevent the fabric from
Place the fabric right side up and sew
1 cm (1/2 inch) from the edge of the
fabric.
Trim close to the stitching.
unravelling.
These stitches are used to join together seams and finish
them in one operation. Elastic Overlock Stitch: for
sewing stretch materials.
31
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)] [mm (inch)]
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Triple zigzag stretch
stitching
Decorative stitching
Stitch Name
Stitch Name
Stitch
Stitch Width
Pattern
Length
[mm (inch)]
[mm (inch)]
Triple Zigzag
Stretch Stitch
16
Triple Zigzag
Stretch Stitch
17
Triple Zigzag
Stretch Stitch
18
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
1.5 (1/16)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
3.5 (1/8)
Fixed
2.5 (3/32)
5 (3/16)
Pattern
10
Scallop Stitch
11
Bead Stitch
Stitch Name
Pattern
Decorative
Stitch
22
Decorative
Stitch
23
These stitches can be used for decorative top stitching
and for smocking. Refer to page 10 for the stitch width
(fixed) and recommended stitch length of each stitches.
3
This stitch can be used wherever a zigzag stitch would
be used to sew heavyweight stretch fabrics. The Triple
Zigzag Stretch Stitch can also be used as a decorative
top stitch.
32
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4
SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS
CAUTION
CAUTION
● Always turn off the machine before
● If the presser foot is not installed with
replacing the presser foot. Otherwise,
injuries may occur if the foot controller
is accidentally pressed and the machine
starts sewing.
Making a buttonhole
Pattern
the correct orientation, the needle may
strike the presser foot, which may bend
or break the needle and cause injury.
(See page 8 for the correct presser foot
orientation.)
3
Stitch
Length
[mm
(inch)]
Stitch
Width
[mm
(inch)]
Foot
F-1.5
(1/64-1/16)
5 (3/16)
Buttonhole
Foot “A”
1
You need to sew the front bar tack first.
Line the bar tack mark under the center of
the presser foot and match it up to the
two lines on the presser foot.
1
2
Memo
● We recommend that you practice making a
buttonhole on a scrap piece of fabric before
you try it on an actual garment.
● When making buttonholes on soft fabrics,
place a stabilizer material on the underside
of the fabric.
1
Using tailor’s chalk, mark the position and
length of the buttonhole on the fabric.
2
1
1 Front of chalk mark
2 Red lines
■ Making a Buttonhole
Step
Sewn section
Pattern
Step 1
(Front bar tack)
1. Set the pattern selection dial to “a”.
2. Lower the presser foot and sew 5 to 6 stitches.
3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left
side of the stitches and then raise the needle from
the material.
Step 2
(Left side)
1 Marks on fabric
2 Buttonhole sewing
2
33
Attach the buttonhole foot and push the
frame back until it stops with the plastic
insert at the front of the frame.
1. Turn the pattern selection dial to “b”.
2. Sew the length of the tailor’s chalk line.
3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the left
side of the stitch and then raise the needle.
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Step
Sewn section
Pattern
Step 3
(Back bar tack)
1. Turn the pattern selection dial to “c” (same
position as in step 1).
2. Sew 5 to 6 stitches.
3. Stop the machine when the needle is at the right
side of the stitch and then raise the needle from the
material.
Step 4
(Right side)
Adjusting buttonholes
If the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole is not
the same, you can make the following adjustments.
1
Set the stitch length dial between “F” and
“1.5” and sew the buttonhole on a scrap
piece of fabric to observe how the
material is fed.
2
If the right side of the buttonhole is too
open or tight, adjust the feeding of the
material with the stitch length dial.
1
1. Set the pattern selection dial to “d”.
2. Sew the right side until the needle reaches the
stitches sewn in step 1.
■ Securing the Stitching and Cutting the
Buttonhole
1
2
3
To secure the stitching, turn the material
90 degrees counterclockwise and sew
straight stitches to the end of the front bar
tack of the buttonhole.
2
Remove the material from the machine.
We recommend that you put pins across
both ends of the buttonhole to prevent the
stitches from being cut.
Cut an opening in the middle of the
buttonhole with the seam ripper tool. Be
careful not to cut through any stitches.
CAUTION
● When using the seam ripper to open the
buttonhole, do not put your hand or
finger in the path of the ripper. The seam
ripper may slip and you may be injured.
3
4
1 Right side
2 Shorter
3 Longer
3
After obtaining a satisfactory feed on the
right side, stitch the buttonhole and
observe the feeding.
4
If the left side is too open or tight
compared with the right side, adjust the
buttonhole fine-adjustment screw as
described in the following paragraphs.
2
1
3
3
1 Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw
2 Left side
3 Buttonhole appearance
34
SEWING BUTTONHOLES AND BUTTONS —
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If the left side is too open, turn the buttonhole
fine-adjustment screw with a large
screwdriver in the “–” direction.
If the left side is too tight, turn the buttonhole
fine-adjustment screw with a large
screwdriver in the “+” direction.
6
Put a button between the foot and the
fabric and make sure that the needle enters
the holes without hitting the button. If it
hits, see step .
1
• This adjustment ensures both sides of the
buttonhole are the same.
Sewing buttons
Stitch
Name
Zigzag
Stitch
Zigzag
Stitch
Zigzag
Stitch
1
Pattern
4
5
6
7
Stitch
Length
[mm
(inch)]
Stitch
Width
[mm
(inch)]
F
(1/64)
1.5
(1/16)
Button
Sewing Darning
Foot
Plate
“M”
F
(1/64)
3.5
(1/8)
Button
Sewing Darning
Foot
Plate
“M”
5
(3/16)
Button
Sewing Darning
Foot
Plate
“M”
F
(1/64)
Foot
Other
Measure the distance between the
buttonholes and set the pattern selection
dial to the Zigzag Stitch (1.5 mm, 3.5 mm
or 5 mm) with the desired width.
2
Turn off the machine.
3
Change the foot to the button sewing foot
“M”.
4
Place the darning plate on the needle
plate.
5
Turn on the machine.
35
At a slow speed, sew about 10 stitches.
CAUTION
● Make sure the needle does not hit the
button during sewing. The needle may
break and you may be injured.
8
Pull the upper thread at the end of the
stitching to the wrong side of the fabric,
and then tie it with the bobbin thread.
X Use scissors to cut the upper thread and
the bobbin thread at the beginning of the
stitching.
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5
USING ATTACHMENTS AND
APPLICATIONS
CAUTION
● Always turn off the machine before replacing the presser foot. Otherwise, injuries may occur
if the foot controller is accidentally pressed and the machine starts sewing.
2
Zipper insertion
Stitch Name
Pattern
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle
Position)
3
CAUTION
Stitch
Length
[mm (inch)]
Foot
2-3
(1/16-1/8)
Zipper
Foot “I”
You can use the zipper foot “I” to sew different types of
zippers, and can easily position it to the right or left side
of the needle.
When sewing with the zipper on the right side, attach
the shank to the left pin of the zipper foot. When sewing
with the zipper on the left side, attach the shank to the
right pin of the zipper foot.
(counterclockwise) and check that the
needle does not touch the zipper foot
before you start sewing. Choosing a
different stitch will cause the needle to
hit the presser foot and break, and you
may be injured.
3
Turn on the machine.
4
With the right side of the fabric facing up,
continue sewing with the zipper on the
right side of the presser foot.
I
2
● Turn the handwheel toward you
3
1
4
2
1 Right pin for sewing with the zipper on the left
side
2 Left pin for sewing with the zipper on the right
side
3 Needle drop point for sewing with the zipper
on the left side
4 Needle drop point for sewing with the zipper
on the right side
1
13
2
Prepare the fabric with the zipper basted
on the wrong side.
1
3
4
1
2
3
4
5
Turn off the machine.
Attach the zipper foot “I”.
2
Basting stitching
Reverse stitches
Wrong side of fabric
End of zipper opening
Zipper
5
3
1 End of zipper opening
2 Basting stitching
3 Zipper
• Sew the stitching in order, from 1 to 3.
1
3
1
CAUTION
● Make sure the needle does not hit the
zipper during sewing. If the needle hits
the zipper, the needle may break and
you may be injured.
4
5
When you have finished sewing, remove
the basting stitching.
36
5
USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS —
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Gathering
Stitch Name
Stitch Length
[mm (inch)]
Pattern
Straight Stitch
(Left Needle Position)
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle
Position)
2
4 (3/16)
3
2
Either remove both the presser foot and
presser foot holder assembly and then
lower the presser foot lever.
3
Put the section you want to darn under
the presser foot together with fabric for
reinforcement.
4
Turn on the machine.
5
Begin sewing by alternating between
gently drawing the work away from you
and pulling it toward you.
4 (3/16)
1
Loosen the tension of the upper thread so
that the lower thread lies on the underside
of the material.
2
Sew a single row (or many rows) of
straight stitches.
3
Pull the lower threads to gather the
material.
Note
● Sew while holding the fabric stretched in
order to keep the fabric held down.
6
Repeat this motion until the section being
darned is filled with parallel lines of
stitching.
Darning
Stitch Name
Pattern
Straight Stitch
(Left Needle
Position)
2
Stitch
Length
[mm (inch)]
Appliqués
Other
Stitch Name
Any
Pattern
Darning
Plate
4
Zigzag Stitch
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle
Position)
3
Any
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)]
[mm (inch)]
F-2
(1/64-1/16)
1.5 (1/16)
F-2
(1/64-1/16)
3.5 (1/8)
F-2
(1/64-1/16)
5 (3/16)
Darning
Plate
Turn off the machine.
1 Place the darning plate on the needle
plate, then turn on the machine.
5
Zigzag Stitch
6
Zigzag Stitch
You can create an appliqué by cutting a different piece
of fabric into a shape and applying it as a decoration.
37
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1
Baste the cut design to the fabric.
2
Carefully sew around the edge of the
design with a zigzag stitch.
OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
■ When edge stitching
Using the blind stitch foot
Stitch Name
Pattern
Straight Stitch
(Center Needle
Position)
3
4
Zigzag Stitch
5
Zigzag Stitch
6
Zigzag Stitch
Stretch Blind
Hem Stitch
9
Stitch
Stitch Width
Length
[mm (inch)]
[mm (inch)]
Any
—
1-4
(1/16-3/16)
1.5 (1/16)
1-4
(1/16-3/16)
3.5 (1/8)
1-4
(1/16-3/16)
5 (3/16)
F-1.5
(1/64-1/16)
1
Turn off the machine.
2
Attach the blind stitch foot.
Turn on the machine.
3
Position the needle the distance you want
the stitch to be from the edge of the
fabric, and then lower the needle in that
position.
4
Turn the foot guide screw and carefully
adjust to guide the fabric.
5
1
2
2
1
3 (1/8)
This foot comes in handy not only for stretch blind hem
stitching, but also for sewing fabric edges and seams.
1 Screw
2 Guide
■ When sewing seams
1
Turn off the machine.
2
Attach the blind stitch foot.
Turn on the machine.
3
Set the pattern selection dial to the
Straight Stitch (Center Needle Position).
Align the foot guide with the needle
position.
4
Set the pattern selection dial to the Zigzag
Stitch (1.5 mm, 3.5 mm or 5 mm) with the
desired width.
38
USING ATTACHMENTS AND APPLICATIONS —
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5
Place the fabric under the foot so the foot
guide is aligned between both edges of the
fabric.
6
Lower the presser foot and start sewing.
■ When stretch blind hem stitching
When stretch blind hem stitching using the blind
stitch foot, turn the screw to adjust the guide to the
folded hem.
• For more details on blind hem stitching, see
page 27.
1
2
3
1 Screw
2 Guide
3 Folded hem
39
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6
APPENDIX
MAINTENANCE
Restrictions on oiling
In order to prevent damaging this machine, it must not
be oiled by the user.
This machine was manufactured with the necessary
amount of oil applied to ensure correct operation,
making periodic oiling unnecessary.
1
Turn off the machine and unplug it.
2
Raise the needle and the presser foot.
3
Loosen the presser foot screw and the
needle clamp screw to remove the presser
foot holder and the needle.
4
Using the oval screwdriver, remove the
two screws. Lift up the needle plate as
shown in the illustration, and then slide
the needle plate to the left to remove it.
If problems occur, such as difficulty turning the
handwheel or an unusual noise, immediately stop using
the machine, and contact your authorized dealer or the
nearest authorized service center.
Precautions on storing the
machine
Do not store the machine in any of the locations
described below, otherwise damage to the machine
may result, for example, rust caused by condensation.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Exposed to extremely high temperatures
Exposed to extremely low temperatures
Exposed to extreme temperature changes
Exposed to high humidity or steam
Near a flame, heater or air conditioner
Outdoors or exposed to direct sunlight
Exposed to extremely dusty or oily environments
1
6
Note
● In order to extend the life of this machine,
periodically turn it on and use it.
Storing this machine for an extended period
of time without using it may reduce its
efficiency.
1 Use the oval screwdriver
5
Grasp the bobbin case, and then lift it out
to the left.
Cleaning
CAUTION
● Make sure you unplug the machine
before you clean it, otherwise you risk
getting an electric shock or being
injured.
40
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6
Use the cleaning brush or a vacuum
cleaner to remove any dust from the race
and its surrounding area.
8
Install the needle plate, and then tighten
the screws.
1
1
2
1 Cleaning brush
2 Race
1 Screws
• Do not apply oil to the bobbin case.
• Make sure that you install the needle plate
securely.
Insert the bobbin case so that the ▲ mark
7 on the bobbin case aligns with the ● mark
on machine as shown below.
CAUTION
● Never use a bobbin case that is
1
1
2
2
• Align the ▲ and ● marks.
3
1 ▲ mark
2 ● mark
3 Bobbin case
• Make sure that the indicated points are
aligned before installing the bobbin case.
41
scratched; otherwise the upper thread
may become tangled, the needle may
break, or sewing performance may
suffer. For a new bobbin case (part code:
XE9326-001), contact your nearest
authorized service center.
● Make sure that you fit the bobbin case
properly, otherwise the needle may
break.
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TROUBLESHOOTING
If the machine stops operating correctly, check the following possible problems before requesting service. You can
solve most problems by yourself. If you need additional help, the Brother Solutions Center offers the latest FAQs and
troubleshooting tips. Visit us at “ http://solutions.brother.com ”. If the problem persists, contact your dealer or the
nearest authorized service center.
Symptom
Possible cause
The sewing
machine does
not work.
Fabric being
sewn with the
machine
cannot be
removed.
The needle
breaks.
The upper
thread
breaks.
▼
How to put it right
Page
The main power switch is turned off.
Turn on the main power switch.
7
The bobbin-winder shaft is pushed to the
right.
Move the bobbin-winder shaft to the
left.
13
You have not used the foot controller
properly.
Use the foot controller properly.
7
Thread is tangled below the needle plate.
Lift up the fabric and cut the threads
below it, and clean the race.
40
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
7
The needle clamp screw is loose.
Use the oval screwdriver to firmly
tighten the screw.
8
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
7
The upper thread was not threaded
correctly.
Correct the upper threading.
16
You have not used the right combination of
fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
21
The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that you
want to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
–
The upper thread tension is too tight.
Loosen the upper thread tension.
26
You are pulling the fabric too much.
Lightly guide the fabric.
You have not fitted the spool properly.
Fit the spool properly.
The area around the hole in the needle
plate or the presser foot is scratched.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The bobbin case is scratched.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
You have not used a bobbin that has been
designed for this machine.
Use a bobbin that has been designed
for this machine.
12
You have not threaded the upper thread
properly. (For example, you have not fitted
the spool properly, or the thread has come
out of the guide above the needle.)
Correct the upper threading.
16
There are knots or tangles in the thread.
Remove any knots or tangles.
–
The needle is not appropriate for the thread
you are using.
Choose a needle that is appropriate for
the type of stitch.
21
The upper thread tension is too tight.
Loosen the upper thread tension.
26
–
16, 24
42
6
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Symptom
Possible cause
▲
The upper
thread
breaks.
The lower
thread is
tangled or
breaks.
The thread
tension is
incorrect.
The fabric is
wrinkled.
▼
43
How to put it right
Page
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
7
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
7
The area around the hole in the needle
plate or the presser foot is scratched.
Replace the needle plate.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
The bobbin case is scratched, or has a burr
on it.
Replace the bobbin case.
Contact your retailer or the nearest
authorized service center.
–
You have not used a bobbin that has been
designed for this machine.
Use a bobbin that has been designed for
this machine.
12
You have not wound the bobbin thread
properly.
Wind the bobbin thread properly.
12
The bobbin is scratched or does not turn
smoothly.
Replace the bobbin.
The thread is tangled.
Remove the tangled thread and clean
the race.
40
You have not used a bobbin that has been
designed for this machine.
Use a bobbin that has been designed for
this machine.
12
Bobbin is set incorrectly.
Reset the bobbin thread correctly.
You have not threaded the upper thread
properly.
Correct the upper threading.
16
You have not wound the bobbin thread
properly.
Wind the bobbin thread properly.
12
You have not threaded the right
combination of thread and needle for the
fabric you are using.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
21
You have not attached the presser foot
holder properly.
Attach the presser foot holder properly.
–
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper thread.
26
You have not used a bobbin that has been
designed for this machine.
Use a bobbin that has been designed
for this machine.
12
Bobbin is set incorrectly.
Reset the bobbin thread correctly.
14-15
You have not threaded the upper thread
properly or fitted the bobbin properly.
Thread the upper thread and wind the
bobbin thread properly.
12-19
You have not fitted the spool properly.
Fit the spool properly.
16, 24
You have not used the right
combination of fabric, thread and
needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
21
–
14-15
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
7
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the fabric is
not being fed correctly.
Sew with stabilizer material under the
fabric.
24
If thin fabrics are being sewn, the stitch is
too coarse.
Shorten the stitch length.
11
The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that you
want to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
36
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Symptom
▲
The fabric is
wrinkled.
Stitches are
skipped.
The needle
threader can
not be used.
The stitch is
not sewn
correctly.
The fabric
does not feed.
Possible cause
How to put it right
Page
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper thread.
26
You have not threaded the upper thread
properly.
Correct the upper threading.
16
You have not used the right combination of
fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
21
The needle is bent or blunt.
Replace the needle.
7
The needle is incorrectly installed.
Correctly install the needle.
7
Dust has accumulated under the needle
plate or in the bobbin case.
Remove the needle plate and clean the
plate and the bobbin case.
40
The needle has not been raised to the
correct position.
Raise the needle by turning the
handwheel toward you
(counterclockwise) so that the mark on
the wheel points up.
18
You have not inserted the needle properly.
Insert the needle properly.
7
The presser foot that you are using is not
correct for the type of stitch.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
–
The thread tension is incorrect.
Adjust the tension of the upper thread.
26
The thread is tangled.
Remove the tangled thread. If the
thread is tangled in the bobbin case,
clean the bobbin case.
40
The stitch is too fine.
Lengthen the stitch length.
–
The darning plate is fitted on the needle
plate.
Remove the darning plate.
–
You have not used the right combination of
fabric, thread and needle.
Choose a thread and needle that are
appropriate for the type of fabric.
21
The thread is tangled, for example, in the
race.
Remove the tangle thread. If the thread
is tangled in the race, clean the race.
40
The presser foot you are using is not
appropriate for the type of stitch that you
want to sew.
Attach the presser foot that is correct
for the type of stitch that you want to
sew.
36
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44
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INDEX
Numerics
4-Step Automatic Buttonhole ....................... 33
A
Accessories .................................................. 4
optional ............................................ 4 38
Appliqués .................................................. 37
B
Blind hem stitching ..................................... 27
Blind stitch foot .......................................... 38
Bobbin winding .......................................... 12
Button sewing ............................................ 35
Buttonhole
adjusting ................................................ 34
making ................................................... 33
Buttonhole fine-adjustment screw ................ 34
C
Cleaning .................................................... 40
Connecting plugs .......................................... 6
D
Darning ..................................................... 37
Darning plate ...................................... 35 37
Decorative stitching .................................... 32
Double action stitching ............................... 30
Drawing up the lower thread ....................... 19
E
Elastic stitching ........................................... 29
F
Fabric, thread, and needle combinations ...... 21
Fagoting ..................................................... 30
Feather stitching ......................................... 31
Flat bed attachment ...................................... 5
Foot controller .............................................. 7
Free-arm style ............................................. 24
G
Gathering ................................................... 37
H
Handwheel ................................................ 16
L
Light switch .................................................. 7
Lower threading ......................................... 14
quick-set bobbin .............................. 15 20
M
Main parts .................................................... 5
Main power ................................................. 7
Maintenance .............................................. 40
N
Needle
checking .................................................. 7
combinations with fabric and thread ......... 21
replacing .................................................. 7
Needle threader .......................................... 18
O
Overedge stitching ...................................... 31
P
Pattern selection dial ..................................... 9
,
,
,
45
Patterns ......................................................10
Presser foot changing ....................................8
Q
Quick-set bobbin ................................. 15 20
R
Race cleaning .............................................40
Reverse sewing lever ...................................11
S
Satin stitch ..................................................27
Shell tuck stitching ......................................29
Spool pin ............................................. 12 16
extra ......................................................25
Stitch length dial .........................................11
Stitches
built-in ...................................................27
names ....................................................10
Straight stitching .........................................27
Stretch stitching ............................................9
T
Thread cutter ..............................................23
Thread tension ............................................26
Threading
lower .............................................. 14 15
needle threader .......................................18
twin needle .............................................25
upper .....................................................16
Triple zigzag stretch stitching .......................32
Troubleshooting ..........................................42
Twin needle
attaching ........................................... 8 24
sewing ...................................................24
U
Upper tension control dial ...........................26
Upper threading ..........................................16
Z
Zigzag stitching ...........................................27
Zipper insertion ..........................................36
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XF0501-001
English
885-X03/X13/X23
Printed in China