Slicko 32” 3D EPP Plane
Instruction Manual
Equipment Required:
Wingspan: 32 ½”
Length: 33 ½ “
Weight: AUW 6.5oz-7.5oz
Construction: Durable EPP, Wood & Carbon Fiber
COG: 5/8”-1” Behind the Wing Spar
Build Time: 1-4hrs
Servos: 1x8-9g servo & 2x5-6g servos
Radio: 4+ channel w/light weight receiver.
Motor: 18g–25g 1500–1900kv 50+ Watt.
ESC: 8A – 12A
Battery: <35g 330–500mAh 20C+ 2S or 3S.
Propeller: 8”-9” Direct Drive or Slow Fly.
Glue (Welder or Foam-Tac & CA recommended)
Steel Ruler 24”-36”
Small Weights or food/drink cans
Hobby Knife
Soldering Iron and Solder
Wax or Parchment Paper or Plastic sheet
Paint or permanent markers (optional)
Flat Level work surface
Heat Gun or Lighter (optional)
Airframe Construction:
Note: It is critical that you build on a perfectly flat work surface to insure a straight build. Use
wax, parchment paper or plastic under the glued surfaces to keep them from sticking to your
work surface.
Step 1 – Apply glue liberally to both sides of
the 29” wood Wing Spar.
Step 3 – Glue in the 10” wood elevator and
2- 2” nose stiffeners. Insure that the nose
stiffeners sit flush with the front of the
Step 2 – Place spar in the wing squeeze the
foam against the spar to spread the glue on
to the foam. If you are using a contact
adhesive such as Welder you can spread the
joint back apart and hold for 30-60 seconds
before re-applying. This will allow the glue to
setup more quickly.
Step 4 – If you ARE NOT installing the
optional carbon fiber lead edge pieces.
Glue the cut slices on either side
of the nose where it meets the wing.
Step 5 – Lay all pieces on your flat/level
work surface. Use food cans or other
weights to hold them flat so that they don't
dry warped. Let the glue dry.
Step 6 – Layout the horizontal plane pieces and
glue together making sure they are aligned
correctly. Allow the glue to dry. NOTE: Make
sure all hinge bevels are on the same
Step 7– Locate the bottom vertical
fuselage and trim the 3 most rearward
tabs about 1/8” as shown. Trial fit the
bottom fuse into the horizontal fuse to
insure a good fit. Make sure the front of
the vertical fuse lines up well with the
front of the horizontal fuse where the
motor will mount. NOTE: Make sure
when you glue that you are gluing the
bottom fuselage to the bottom of the
plane. The cut hinge bevels should be
facing up.
Step 8 – Apply a liberal bead of glue to the Step 9 – Use an angle to insure that the fuselage
bottom vertical fuselage, press down to the
is square. Make sure that the vertical fuselage
horizontal fuselage weight with food cans.
is glued well to the horizontal along the length
NOTE: Use weights along the fuse, wing and tail sections on your flat/level surface while the
glue sets up to insure a straight build.
Step 10 – Place weights on the wing tips and tail on your flat works surface. Place your first
EPP brace bevel side up and run continues beads on both bevels (above right). Place the first
brace (below left), you can use push pins to help hold it down. Continuously press the glue
joints down every couple of minutes to insure that you have a good bond down the whole
length of the brace to the fuselage. Use a 45 degree angle to insure that you do not warp the
vertical fuselage. Repeat for the second side (below right). NOTE: it is important to make sure
the braces are glued down along the whole length of the fuselage for best performance.
When installing make sure your vertical fuselage remains straight.
NEXT: If you are installing the optional carbon fiber reinforcement kit and/or landing
gear jump forward to section 13/15 and complete the installation steps then return
Step 11 – Fit your aileron servo into the cut servo hole and check for fit. It should fit snugly.
Trim as necessary as shown above. Once you have a good fit you can thread the wire
through the hole so that the connector is on the side with the carbon fiber truss bracing. Now
put a small dab of glue on the servo tabs to hold it in.
Step 12– Trim 1/8” off of the front of the
3 rearward tabs on the top fuselage.
When installed the front of the top
fuselage should be flush with the
horizontal fuselage where the motor
Step 13 – Temporally place the top fuselage and check for fit. If it does not sit flush trim any
tabs as necessary (above right). Glue on the top fuselage and adjust to make sure it is square
(below left). Glue the back tail piece (below right).
Step 14 – Mark the foam directly on either side of the fuse and right behind the wing spar and
cut for your tail servos. Cut the holes smaller than the servos so that they are a tight fit (above
Step 15 – Locate 3 ½” 1.5mm carbon tail skid Step 16 – Locate the final 4 ½” vertical
/tail stiffener. Press the stiffener ½” into the stabilizer brace and glue in and check for
EPP and glue down the rod to the tail.
Square (picture below).
Step 17 – Locate the 4 control horns as pictured (above right). Pin or tape the ailerons,
rudder and elevator so they are level as shown below.
Step 18 – Apply glue to the control horn base and posts (above left). Glue the control horns
into the cut slots in the ailerons, elevator and rudder. Slide the horns so that the push-rod
holes line up over the center of the hinge (above right). Save the 4 horn back plates as they
will be used for push-rod stand off guides later. NOTE: All horns should be glued on the flat
hinge side opposite of the cut bevels.
Step 19 – Locate and install the extended
aileron servo arm. If the servo arm doesn't
fit on your servo you can flip it over and
CA glue it to your existing servo arm and
heat shrink it.
Step 20 – Straighten the servo arm so that
the push rods will be even lengths. Assemble
one of your aileron push rod which includes
a 5 ¾” 1.5mm rod, 1 z-bend, 1 adjustable
z-bends and 2 pieces of shrink tube. Lightly
sand each end of the carbon fiber push rod and
the z-bends where they will connect. NOTE:
Place a piece of cardboard or card-stock around
the control horn so that you do not apply heat
directly to the EPP when shrinking as pictured.
Step 19 – Move the shrink tube over and place a couple drops of CA on the z-bend/control
rod. Quickly slide the shrink tube back over and shrink with a heat gun, lighter or soldering
iron. Once cooled you can hit the ends of the shrink tub with another drop of CA. NOTE:
Make sure you always have a barrier between the heat gun/soldering iron and the EPP. Never
apply heat from the heat gun or soldering iron directly to the EPP or it will get damaged.
Step 20 – Locate the longer of the 2 tail push rods for your rudder. Install 2 of the plastic
stand-offs pictured (above right) over the rod and install z-bends and shrink tube as you did
with the aileron push rods. Make sure your servo control horn is 45 degrees with the vertical
fuselage. Install the elevator push rod in the same way. Make sure to slide the 2 remaining
plastic stand-offs on the elevator push rod. NOTE: Again, make sure you use card-stock or
cardboard between the heat source and the EPP so that it does not damage the EPP foam.
Step 21 – Cut small slices ¾ through the foam to install the stand-offs as shown above. Make
sure that they line up with the push rod so that the rod does not bow excessively. The back
stand-offs for the rudder is on the vertical fuse and the front one is on the horizontal fuse . On
the elevator push rod both stand-offs will be on the horizontal fuse.
Step 22 – Hook up your radio and ESC per the manufactures instructions. Temporally place
at either side of the fuselage as shown. Note how I routed the battery connector through a
small slit in the EPP to the top of the fuselage where I will mount my battery. Don't attach your
RX or ESC to the fuselage yet, we may need to move them to get the COG correct.
Step 23 – The motor can be installed using spare servo screws and the supplied plywood
firewall and 4-EPP pie pieces glued to the nose (above right) or you can glue and/or tape it to
the the front of the fuselage to save some weight if your mount is big enough (above left).
Once the pie pieces glue is dry you can trim them to the size of the mount. NOTE: Make sure
that the motor/firewall is mounted straight so that it is not pointing to either side or up/down.
Step 24 – Place your battery just behind the aileron servo temporarily (above left) so that we
can balance the COG. To test your COG lightly hold the canopy (above right) and test if it
balances somewhere between 3/4” and 1 1/4” behind the wing spar. If not, you can move your
ESC/RX and/or battery back or forward until you get it to balance. NOTE: COG is a personal
preference. You may find that you would like it further forward or aft. For the first flights we
recommend that you temporarily mount your battery with Velcro or two sided tape in case you
would like to move it to adjust the COG.
Step 25 – There are a couple of options for installing your battery. You can use the supplied
Velcro, or mark and cut a slot in the EPP. If you cut the slot cut it slightly smaller than the
battery so that it is a snug fit. If you intend on using different sized batteries Velcro might be
the preferred method. To get the COG right if I'm using landing gear and/or running a heavier
motor ( >22g) I run the battery behind the aileron servo (above left). For lighter <22g motors
and/or without landing gear I prefer the battery somewhere in front of the aileron servo
(below). The battery can also be mounted below the fuselage for more adjust-ability.
Thanks for purchasing the Wicked Fun Hobbys Slicko 32” EPP 3D plane. We hope you
enjoy it as much as we do. Please contact us with any questions or concerns at
Happy Flying!
Kevin & Andria
Wicked Fun Hobbys
2- Optional Carbon Fiber Re-Inforcement Kit Installation
Step 1 – If you are installing the optional
Step 2 – Measure 6” out from the fuselage
carbon fiber re-enforcement kit. Glue down the and 1/2” back from the lead edge and
14 1/2” carbon strips on either side of the wing. glue down your wing fences on both
Make sure to use a liberal amount of glue in the sides of the wings. Make sure they
slice in the nose to help stop potential tearing.
are parallel to the fuselage.
Step 3 – Locate 4 -13” 1.5mm carbon rods for your wing struts. Lay out the rods on top of the
fuselage and wing as pictured above and mark where they sit on the wing fence.
Measure 3/8” down on the fuse right above the wing spar (above right). Carefully poke the
rods close together into the fuselage while twisting at this measured location. You can
optionally sharpen one side of the wing strut rods with a Dremel or sandpaper (above left).
Make sure you where a suitable dust mask and proper safety gear. You want the rods so they
just slightly protrude through the other side of the fuselage. Cut slices in the wing fences
where we marked previously (above right) so that the carbon fiber can slide in and rest on the
wing. Pull the rods out of the fuselage slightly and add some glue to hold them in. Note the
weights on the wings holding them flat while we install the struts.
Slightly move the carbon fiber struts over with your knife blade make slices and press the
carbon fiber rods into them. I use CA to glue the rods in and later glue a small mound over the
rod/wing with Welder or hot glue to give it a stronger bond. Hold the slices in the wing fences
open and let the rods settle in the slice on there own as pictured. Glue the rods in and the
slices back together. Repeat the wing strut installation on the other side of the wing.
3- Optional Landing Gear Installation
Step 1 – Locate your 2-7 ½” 2mm landing gear rods. Mark a spot for the landing gear ¾ “
back from the servo slot and 1 ½” up the vertical fuse as shown in the picture above. You can
either make a ½” vertical slice through the fuselage here or sharpen the landing gear rods
and push them through the EPP. Push the landing gear legs into the wing 1” from the
fuselage as shown and about ¾ of the way into the EPP and glue. While the glue is still wet
you can flip the plane over and check for level. Slightly push in or pull out the individual legs
until you are level. Once satisfied, glue the legs in at the wing and fuselage.
Step 2 – Locate your landing gear set as seen above. Carefully press the axles into the axle
hubs as shown. Notice how the assemble goes together below. Locate your EPP wheel skirts
and place glue the hubs where you would like them as shown below.
Step 3 – Cut wheel pants to 4 ½” at a bevel. Slice down the middle of the pants and embed
the gear legs and glue and/or tape as shown. Glue wheel assemble together as shown
above. NOTE: Be careful to use just a dab of glue on the axle or the glue can get up on the
hub and stick the wheel to the hub.
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