Slicko 32” 3D EPP Plane Instruction Manual Specifications: Equipment Required: Wingspan: 32 ½” Length: 33 ½ “ Weight: AUW 6.5oz-7.5oz Construction: Durable EPP, Wood & Carbon Fiber COG: 5/8”-1” Behind the Wing Spar Build Time: 1-4hrs Servos: 1x8-9g servo & 2x5-6g servos Radio: 4+ channel w/light weight receiver. Motor: 18g–25g 1500–1900kv 50+ Watt. ESC: 8A – 12A Battery: <35g 330–500mAh 20C+ 2S or 3S. Propeller: 8”-9” Direct Drive or Slow Fly. Supplies/Tools: Glue (Welder or Foam-Tac & CA recommended) Steel Ruler 24”-36” Small Weights or food/drink cans Triangle Hobby Knife Soldering Iron and Solder Wax or Parchment Paper or Plastic sheet Paint or permanent markers (optional) Flat Level work surface Heat Gun or Lighter (optional) Airframe Construction: Note: It is critical that you build on a perfectly flat work surface to insure a straight build. Use wax, parchment paper or plastic under the glued surfaces to keep them from sticking to your work surface. Step 1 – Apply glue liberally to both sides of the 29” wood Wing Spar. Step 3 – Glue in the 10” wood elevator and 2- 2” nose stiffeners. Insure that the nose stiffeners sit flush with the front of the fuselage. Step 2 – Place spar in the wing squeeze the foam against the spar to spread the glue on to the foam. If you are using a contact adhesive such as Welder you can spread the joint back apart and hold for 30-60 seconds before re-applying. This will allow the glue to setup more quickly. Step 4 – If you ARE NOT installing the optional carbon fiber lead edge pieces. Glue the cut slices on either side of the nose where it meets the wing. Step 5 – Lay all pieces on your flat/level work surface. Use food cans or other weights to hold them flat so that they don't dry warped. Let the glue dry. Step 6 – Layout the horizontal plane pieces and glue together making sure they are aligned correctly. Allow the glue to dry. NOTE: Make sure all hinge bevels are on the same side. Step 7– Locate the bottom vertical fuselage and trim the 3 most rearward tabs about 1/8” as shown. Trial fit the bottom fuse into the horizontal fuse to insure a good fit. Make sure the front of the vertical fuse lines up well with the front of the horizontal fuse where the motor will mount. NOTE: Make sure when you glue that you are gluing the bottom fuselage to the bottom of the plane. The cut hinge bevels should be facing up. Step 8 – Apply a liberal bead of glue to the Step 9 – Use an angle to insure that the fuselage bottom vertical fuselage, press down to the is square. Make sure that the vertical fuselage horizontal fuselage weight with food cans. is glued well to the horizontal along the length NOTE: Use weights along the fuse, wing and tail sections on your flat/level surface while the glue sets up to insure a straight build. Step 10 – Place weights on the wing tips and tail on your flat works surface. Place your first EPP brace bevel side up and run continues beads on both bevels (above right). Place the first brace (below left), you can use push pins to help hold it down. Continuously press the glue joints down every couple of minutes to insure that you have a good bond down the whole length of the brace to the fuselage. Use a 45 degree angle to insure that you do not warp the vertical fuselage. Repeat for the second side (below right). NOTE: it is important to make sure the braces are glued down along the whole length of the fuselage for best performance. When installing make sure your vertical fuselage remains straight. NEXT: If you are installing the optional carbon fiber reinforcement kit and/or landing gear jump forward to section 13/15 and complete the installation steps then return here. Step 11 – Fit your aileron servo into the cut servo hole and check for fit. It should fit snugly. Trim as necessary as shown above. Once you have a good fit you can thread the wire through the hole so that the connector is on the side with the carbon fiber truss bracing. Now put a small dab of glue on the servo tabs to hold it in. Step 12– Trim 1/8” off of the front of the 3 rearward tabs on the top fuselage. When installed the front of the top fuselage should be flush with the horizontal fuselage where the motor mounts. Step 13 – Temporally place the top fuselage and check for fit. If it does not sit flush trim any tabs as necessary (above right). Glue on the top fuselage and adjust to make sure it is square (below left). Glue the back tail piece (below right). Step 14 – Mark the foam directly on either side of the fuse and right behind the wing spar and cut for your tail servos. Cut the holes smaller than the servos so that they are a tight fit (above right). Step 15 – Locate 3 ½” 1.5mm carbon tail skid Step 16 – Locate the final 4 ½” vertical /tail stiffener. Press the stiffener ½” into the stabilizer brace and glue in and check for EPP and glue down the rod to the tail. Square (picture below). Step 17 – Locate the 4 control horns as pictured (above right). Pin or tape the ailerons, rudder and elevator so they are level as shown below. Step 18 – Apply glue to the control horn base and posts (above left). Glue the control horns into the cut slots in the ailerons, elevator and rudder. Slide the horns so that the push-rod holes line up over the center of the hinge (above right). Save the 4 horn back plates as they will be used for push-rod stand off guides later. NOTE: All horns should be glued on the flat hinge side opposite of the cut bevels. Step 19 – Locate and install the extended aileron servo arm. If the servo arm doesn't fit on your servo you can flip it over and CA glue it to your existing servo arm and heat shrink it. Step 20 – Straighten the servo arm so that the push rods will be even lengths. Assemble one of your aileron push rod which includes a 5 ¾” 1.5mm rod, 1 z-bend, 1 adjustable z-bends and 2 pieces of shrink tube. Lightly sand each end of the carbon fiber push rod and the z-bends where they will connect. NOTE: Place a piece of cardboard or card-stock around the control horn so that you do not apply heat directly to the EPP when shrinking as pictured. Step 19 – Move the shrink tube over and place a couple drops of CA on the z-bend/control rod. Quickly slide the shrink tube back over and shrink with a heat gun, lighter or soldering iron. Once cooled you can hit the ends of the shrink tub with another drop of CA. NOTE: Make sure you always have a barrier between the heat gun/soldering iron and the EPP. Never apply heat from the heat gun or soldering iron directly to the EPP or it will get damaged. Step 20 – Locate the longer of the 2 tail push rods for your rudder. Install 2 of the plastic stand-offs pictured (above right) over the rod and install z-bends and shrink tube as you did with the aileron push rods. Make sure your servo control horn is 45 degrees with the vertical fuselage. Install the elevator push rod in the same way. Make sure to slide the 2 remaining plastic stand-offs on the elevator push rod. NOTE: Again, make sure you use card-stock or cardboard between the heat source and the EPP so that it does not damage the EPP foam. Step 21 – Cut small slices ¾ through the foam to install the stand-offs as shown above. Make sure that they line up with the push rod so that the rod does not bow excessively. The back stand-offs for the rudder is on the vertical fuse and the front one is on the horizontal fuse . On the elevator push rod both stand-offs will be on the horizontal fuse. Step 22 – Hook up your radio and ESC per the manufactures instructions. Temporally place at either side of the fuselage as shown. Note how I routed the battery connector through a small slit in the EPP to the top of the fuselage where I will mount my battery. Don't attach your RX or ESC to the fuselage yet, we may need to move them to get the COG correct. Step 23 – The motor can be installed using spare servo screws and the supplied plywood firewall and 4-EPP pie pieces glued to the nose (above right) or you can glue and/or tape it to the the front of the fuselage to save some weight if your mount is big enough (above left). Once the pie pieces glue is dry you can trim them to the size of the mount. NOTE: Make sure that the motor/firewall is mounted straight so that it is not pointing to either side or up/down. Step 24 – Place your battery just behind the aileron servo temporarily (above left) so that we can balance the COG. To test your COG lightly hold the canopy (above right) and test if it balances somewhere between 3/4” and 1 1/4” behind the wing spar. If not, you can move your ESC/RX and/or battery back or forward until you get it to balance. NOTE: COG is a personal preference. You may find that you would like it further forward or aft. For the first flights we recommend that you temporarily mount your battery with Velcro or two sided tape in case you would like to move it to adjust the COG. Step 25 – There are a couple of options for installing your battery. You can use the supplied Velcro, or mark and cut a slot in the EPP. If you cut the slot cut it slightly smaller than the battery so that it is a snug fit. If you intend on using different sized batteries Velcro might be the preferred method. To get the COG right if I'm using landing gear and/or running a heavier motor ( >22g) I run the battery behind the aileron servo (above left). For lighter <22g motors and/or without landing gear I prefer the battery somewhere in front of the aileron servo (below). The battery can also be mounted below the fuselage for more adjust-ability. Thanks for purchasing the Wicked Fun Hobbys Slicko 32” EPP 3D plane. We hope you enjoy it as much as we do. Please contact us with any questions or concerns at email@example.com. Happy Flying! Kevin & Andria Wicked Fun Hobbys www.rcplanebuilder.com 2- Optional Carbon Fiber Re-Inforcement Kit Installation Step 1 – If you are installing the optional Step 2 – Measure 6” out from the fuselage carbon fiber re-enforcement kit. Glue down the and 1/2” back from the lead edge and 14 1/2” carbon strips on either side of the wing. glue down your wing fences on both Make sure to use a liberal amount of glue in the sides of the wings. Make sure they slice in the nose to help stop potential tearing. are parallel to the fuselage. Step 3 – Locate 4 -13” 1.5mm carbon rods for your wing struts. Lay out the rods on top of the fuselage and wing as pictured above and mark where they sit on the wing fence. Measure 3/8” down on the fuse right above the wing spar (above right). Carefully poke the rods close together into the fuselage while twisting at this measured location. You can optionally sharpen one side of the wing strut rods with a Dremel or sandpaper (above left). Make sure you where a suitable dust mask and proper safety gear. You want the rods so they just slightly protrude through the other side of the fuselage. Cut slices in the wing fences where we marked previously (above right) so that the carbon fiber can slide in and rest on the wing. Pull the rods out of the fuselage slightly and add some glue to hold them in. Note the weights on the wings holding them flat while we install the struts. Slightly move the carbon fiber struts over with your knife blade make slices and press the carbon fiber rods into them. I use CA to glue the rods in and later glue a small mound over the rod/wing with Welder or hot glue to give it a stronger bond. Hold the slices in the wing fences open and let the rods settle in the slice on there own as pictured. Glue the rods in and the slices back together. Repeat the wing strut installation on the other side of the wing. 3- Optional Landing Gear Installation Step 1 – Locate your 2-7 ½” 2mm landing gear rods. Mark a spot for the landing gear ¾ “ back from the servo slot and 1 ½” up the vertical fuse as shown in the picture above. You can either make a ½” vertical slice through the fuselage here or sharpen the landing gear rods and push them through the EPP. Push the landing gear legs into the wing 1” from the fuselage as shown and about ¾ of the way into the EPP and glue. While the glue is still wet you can flip the plane over and check for level. Slightly push in or pull out the individual legs until you are level. Once satisfied, glue the legs in at the wing and fuselage. Step 2 – Locate your landing gear set as seen above. Carefully press the axles into the axle hubs as shown. Notice how the assemble goes together below. Locate your EPP wheel skirts and place glue the hubs where you would like them as shown below. Step 3 – Cut wheel pants to 4 ½” at a bevel. Slice down the middle of the pants and embed the gear legs and glue and/or tape as shown. Glue wheel assemble together as shown above. NOTE: Be careful to use just a dab of glue on the axle or the glue can get up on the hub and stick the wheel to the hub.