Assembling and Care for your new Soul Beach Cruiser

Assembling and Care for your new
Soul Beach Cruiser
Part 1: Assembly
1. Unbox and unpack your new bike.
There are two to three items to look for in your bike box:
1. The bike
Figure 1 The bike with standard packing
2. The main parts box - there may be a
secondary parts box dependent on
model ordered
Figure 2 Contents of parts box
3. The front brake rotor - this should
either be in the main parts box, or
taped to the parts box itself. (For bikes
equipped with a front brake)
Figure 3 Disk brake rotor (l) and parts box (r)
Upon removal of the bike and assorted parts boxes, please remove the protective packing materials, zip
ties and plastics. Take care not to cut any cables or brake hoses.
Inspect for any damage during shipment.
2. Organizing the assembly - You will have the following parts/components:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
j.
k.
l.
m.
The main bike frame assembly
Fork
Front wheel
Handlebars
Stem
Seat/seat post
Seat clamp (could be pre-installed onto frame, or in the parts box for an XTR)
Headset parts
Front rotor and 6 x T25 Torx head rotor bolts
2 x M5 caliper mount bolts
Pedals
Reflectors
Optional Bike spikes (If equipped)
3. Assemble the bike from front to rear: Fork and Headset
Find the fork and headset parts
Figure 4 Headset parts on right, rotor and caliper bolts left, front wheel spikes
(optional) lower left, fender/reflector mount bolt upper left
Take the black plastic lower seal and place
the rounded side down onto the headset
bottom race already located on the fork
(XTR - this step is not necessary, headset
bottom seal is pre-installed)
Figure 5 Lower fork seal, shown facing up, flip over, should face down
towards fork crown
Take the ball bearing race and place it onto
the fork with the ball bearings facing up, and
the race down toward the bottom race of the
fork. (XTR - this step not necessary,
bearings are pre installed into the headset)
Figure 6 Seal and bearing installed onto fork, add more grease if desired
The frame has some grease already in both
races, we recommend adding a small
amount of grease, if possible, to each
bearing. It does not need to be packed full,
just a light coating. (XTR - step not
necessary)
Figure 7 Pre-installed grease
Take the 2nd ball bearing race and install it
into the top bearing race on the frame. (XTR
- step not necessary)
Figure 8 Bearing installed in proper orientation, add more grease if desired
Insert the fork into the frame
Thread on the top adjustable race. This does
not have to be adjusted at this moment,
adjustment will come later. (On XTR models
place the split plastic washer on, with
protrusion facing down toward the frame,
then the aluminum seal with rubber edge)
Figure 9 Headset adjuster installed onto fork, hand tighten
Take the keyed washer and put it onto the
fork steerer tube. (On XTR place all black
aluminum spacers onto the fork, large near
bottom, thin at top)
Figure 10 Keyed washer
Install the lock nut on the top of the fork
steerer tube. Adjustment is not necessary
yet. (On XTR, use the stem, and Threadless
cap to complete the assembly of the fork)
Figure 11 Locking nut is last to be installed, hand tighten
4. Assemble the stem
Take the stem and apply some grease to the
threads of the quill expander center bolt near
the wedge. (XTR - step not necessary)
Figure 12 The expansion wedge and threads need grease to prevent corrosion
Apply grease into the inside of the fork,
where the stem will go to prevent rust and
corrosion fusing the stem into the bike over
time. (XTR - step not necessary)
Figure 13 Add grease inside the fork steerer tube to allow the stem to be
removed in the future
Insert stem into fork, to the minimum
insertion mark or further dependent on
handlebar height desired. (XTR - step not
necessary)
Figure 14 Stem at minimum insertion height
Tighten the stem quill expander bolt until the stem will stay in place. (XTR - step not necessary)
Remove the bolts for the handlebar plate
Figure 15 Stem with top plate removed, and bar placed
Take the handlebar, and ensure the cables
are not twisted, place into the stem, using
the knurling as a guide to center the bar in
the stem.
Figure 16 Center the bar in the stem using the knurling as a guide
Start each of the stem bolts by hand to
prevent cross threading. Start with the bolts
nearest the quill, and get at least one full
turn on each prior to using tools.
Figure 17 Start all 4 bolts with your fingers, and get one full rotation to ensure
cross-threading does not occur
Tighten each of the four bolts until handlebar will stay in place. Further adjustment will happen in the
adjustment phase.
5. Assemble the front wheel
Take the plastic caps off the axle, they are
not needed any further.
Find the brake rotor and observe the two
sides. One side has stamped letters and
arrows, the other side has no stamping at all.
The stamped side will face outwards away
from the wheel hub. (XTR rotors have small
arrows on the “spokes” that lead up to the
braking area) (For bikes equipped with front
brakes)
Figure 18 Rotor with stamping
Position the brake rotor onto the hub,
aligning the holes.
Figure 19 Align the rotor to ensure proper mating to hub
Take the 6 T25 Torx bolts and start each
using your fingers to ensure they do not
cross thread. Start all 6 of the bolts at this
time.
Figure 20 Start all 6 bolts with your fingers ensuring they do not cross-thread
Thread all 6 bolts until they start to touch the rotor, do not torque any of the bolts until they are all in
contact with the rotor.
In either a circle or star pattern, torque each
of the bolts. (2-4 NM or 18 in pounds)
Figure 21 Using a T25 Torx wrench, tighten bolts until they touch, then torque
each
If installing the optional bike spikes, remove
the axle nuts and begin to thread the spikes
onto the axle for 2-3 turns. Please use the
existing axle washers with the hook to
prevent the wheel from coming out of the
fork in the event an axle nut is not fully tight.
Figure 22 Wheel installed, using spikes and axle retainer
Insert the wheel into the fork, placing the hook of the axle washers into the hole above the axle area.
Tighten the axle nuts/spikes using a 15mm
wrench. (20 nm or 180 in pounds)
6. Assemble the seat
Figure 23 Tighten nuts using a 15mm wrench
Loosen the seat clamp using a 14mm
wrench, to allow rotation of the seat post on
the seat.
Figure 24 Seat clamp on bottom of seat
Placing the saddle on a flat surface, rotate
the post until it is at a 45 degree angle
pointed towards the nose/front of the saddle.
Figure 25 Adjust angle of post for basic fit up
Tighten the seat clamp. (Final angle and height adjustments will occur in the adjustment phase)
Take grease, and apply a light coating on
the first inch of the seat tube of the bike
frame to prevent corrosion.
Figure 26 Apply grease into seat tube of the frame
If the seat post clamp is not installed on the frame, install it at this time.
Take the seat and seat post and insert it into the frame past the minimum insertion point which is stamped
into the post approximately 3 inches from the end.
Tighten the quick release to allow the cam
actuation to lock the post into the frame so
that it cant twist easily. (On XTR - it might be
necessary to use the cam first on a lighter
setting, and use a 4mm allen to add tension
after moving the cam to a lock position)
Figure 27 Seat post clamp quick release shown in locked position
7. Install pedals
Each pedal is marked with a sticker as well
as a stamping on the pedal body, and end
of axle denoting left and right. The right
side of the bike is the side with the chain.
Figure 28 Pedal denoted with an R - right side
Take the right side pedal, add a small amount of grease to the threads, and thread it into the crank
Do the same with the left pedal
Figure 29 Left hand pedal denoted with an L on pedal body
Use a 15mm wrench to tighten each pedal
8. Install reflectors (US DOT safety standards recommend all bikes have reflectors)
a. The white reflector is installed onto the fork. A bolt, nut and washers are included in the parts
box for its installation.
b. The red reflector clamps onto the upper section of the seat post approximately 1 inch below the
saddle if possible.
Part 2: Final Adjustment
1.
Handlebars
We normally position the handlebar leaning
slightly forward, where the crossbar is just
above the from bolts of the stem, or a 5
degree forward lean. Adjust to desired
angle, and tighten the handlebar bolts to 13
nm or 120 in pounds.
Figure 30 Handlebars shown with slight lean forward
2.
Sight through the stem to the front wheel
and adjust the stem for straightness. Use a
6mm allen to tighten the quill expander bolt
to 11 nm or 100 inch pounds.
Figure 31 Using either the fork dropout or the centerline of the tire, center the
stem and then tighten to full torque
Brake levers- using a 5mm allen, loosen
and rotate the levers to a desired angle and
then tighten. 6 nm or 50 in pounds torque.
Figure 32 Rotate the brake levers clockwise until they easily accessible
If necessary, the grip shift for the 3 spd can
be loosened and rotated, and retightened.
Do not over-torque as it can break the
plastic housing.
Figure 33 Adjust the shifter until the window is easy to view
Brake Calipers
On the front brake begin by threading in the
brake adapter arm fixing bolts into the fork
and tightening to 11 nm or 100 in pounds
Figure 34 The front brake mount bolts run through the fork into the aluminum
arm that the brake rests on
Thread the caliper bolts in, until the caliper
movement is restricted, but still able to
move slightly.
Figure 35 Shown top and bottom, the caliper mount bolts are not fully
threaded in from the factory, begin tightening to remove some movement, but
allow small adjustment
Sight through the brake, observing the
space between the pads and the rotor. Your
goal is to rotate the caliper so that there is
equal space between the pads and rotor on
both sides. We find using a brightly colored
piece of paper on the floor helps us see the
light between the pad and rotor.
Figure 36 From the front, look through the brake comparing the brake pads to
the rotor, and adjusting until the gap from the rotor is the same for both pads
Tighten the caliper fixing bolts slightly, ensuring that adjustment remains constant.
Repeat tightening once you are sure the caliper is at the correct angle.
It may be necessary to bend the caliper mount arm slightly to true up the angle the caliper is at so the
pads hit the rotor evenly.
Repeat this process on the rear brake.
Once the brake calipers are adjusted, the
lever throw can be adjusted at the brake
lever. Turning the adjuster clockwise
increases throw, and moves the lever away
from the handlebar. Moving counterclockwise with bring the lever closer. Turning
the adjuster too far in either direction (4-5
turns or more) can affect braking
performance, or cause the lever piston to
become disconnected.
3.
Headset
Figure 37 Adjust the lever throw with the adjuster screw as shown below.
Using a 36mm headset wrench, or a large
crescent wrench, thread the adjustable
upper cone down until there is no play in
the headset, but rotation of the handlebars
is not under resistance.
Figure 38 Thread the adjustable cup until play is reduced or not existent
Tighten the upper lock nut until it makes
contact with the lock washer and the upper
adjustment cone.
Figure 39 Tighten the lock nut against the adjustable cup.
Using a headset wrench, loosen the upper adjustable cup a quarter turn to lock it against the lock nut.
Test adjustment by locking the front brake and rocking the bike backwards and forwards feeling for play.
Repeat the adjustment if necessary.
4.
Seat
With the bike flat on the ground, crouch
down and sight across the saddle from the
side of the bike.
Figure 310 Saddle after initial adjustment, nose up.
At the most, the saddle tip and rear should
be level. We normally adjust the tip down 12 notches.
Figure 40 Our normal adjustment. Due to the springs, the riders weight will
settle the saddle to a level adjustment
Tighten the saddle clamp bolt to 20 nm or 180 in pounds
Seat height is by personal preference. For
longer distance riding, aim for the seat to be
slightly higher, allowing for more complete
extension of the leg. Your leg should not
lock out, but have a 5-10 degree bend at
the knee with the ball of the foot on the
pedal.
5.
Figure 41 Adjust height to riders preference using the quick release seat
clamp.
Gear Adjustment (for bikes with 3 spd internal hubs)
By hand, pop the black protective cover off
the adjuster area on bikes equipped with a
Sturmey Archer hub.
Figure 42 There are two adjusters under the plastic cover
Loosen the fine tune adjuster 5- 7 turns.
This adjuster is threaded in quite far from
the factory.
Figure 43 The fine tune adjuster is to the left as shown by the arrow
In first gear on the shifter, take the front
macro adjuster, and thread it out to remove
the excess slack in the cable. 3-4 threads
should be showing on the back side of the
black arm.
Figure 44 The macro adjuster is on the right, thread this out until 3-4 threads
are showing like in the picture
With the fine tune adjuster, tighten until you
see the shifter pin chain start to move
slightly.
Figure 45 Use the fine tune adjuster to take up further slack until the chain
moves slightly
Tighten the lock nuts to finger tight and snap the protective cover back in place.
6.
Crank Adjustment
Start on the drive side (with chain) crank
Using a 6mm allen, tighten both bolts to
100 in pounds.
On the left side crank, loosen the pinch bolt
first.
Now, loosen the left side adjuster bolt 1
thread.
With your fingers, attempt to twist the small
shiny black ring between the crank arm and
the bottom bracket bearing.
If the ring can be moved slightly, but doesn’t spin freely, tighten the pinch bolt. Otherwise, tighten/loosen
the adjuster bolt until the ring can move with mild resistance.
Tighten both pinch bolts once again, then check the adjuster bolts to ensure they will not back out of the
spindle.
7.
Tires
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
We prefer the tire pressure to be set at 30 psi. Out of the box, the pressure is usually at 10 psi.
Adding 5 pounds at a time, slowly inflate the tires. Ensure that the tire seats evenly on the rim.
If necessary, using the palm of your hand, push in on the tire where the bead is too far outside the
rim. The rib at the tire bead should be exposed 1-2 mm all around, in an even fashion.
Add another 5 pounds, and again ensure even seating of the tire.
Repeat this process until the tires reach 30 psi. If the tire looks uneven, remove air and try to reseat.
Painted rims can be slick, and the tire bead can slide during inflation.
8.
Finishing Touches
To tidy up the cables and hoses, we like to
use either spiral loop tubing or zip ties.
Additionally, we add small zip ties to the
frame cable guides to prevent them from
opening up over time.
Lastly, hose clips retain the brake hose
onto the fork.
To clean the whitewall tires, use a terry cloth towel and WD-40 to scrub dirty spots. Any automotive tire
dressing will work on blackwall tires.
On matte finishes, WD-40 works well to clean fingerprints, grease and other marks from the finish.
We recommend using window cleaner and a microfiber cloth to clean the frame on gloss finishes.
The chain is pre-lubricated from the factory using a wax compound. It should need little maintenance,
however, over time try using a wax based lubricant which keep the chain working like new and reduce
the mess oils leave behind.
The brakes use an organic compound pad. Oils will contaminate these pads, so please keep lubricants
away from the brake calipers.
After your first ride, please check all nuts and bolts to ensure proper adjustment and tightness.
After a month or 20-30 rides, tune the bike up, checking brake and shifter adjustment. Also check all nuts
and bolts to ensure proper adjustment. It is always a good idea to check the bike over from time to time
for safety purposes.
Your new Soul Beach Cruiser is now ready to ride. We recommend checking torque and adjustment after the
first ride, and then again after 20 rides.
Assembly and adjustment videos are available on our website. If you need further support, please feel free to
contact us via email or phone.
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