Assembling and Care for your new Soul Beach Cruiser Part 1: Assembly 1. Unbox and unpack your new bike. There are two to three items to look for in your bike box: 1. The bike Figure 1 The bike with standard packing 2. The main parts box - there may be a secondary parts box dependent on model ordered Figure 2 Contents of parts box 3. The front brake rotor - this should either be in the main parts box, or taped to the parts box itself. (For bikes equipped with a front brake) Figure 3 Disk brake rotor (l) and parts box (r) Upon removal of the bike and assorted parts boxes, please remove the protective packing materials, zip ties and plastics. Take care not to cut any cables or brake hoses. Inspect for any damage during shipment. 2. Organizing the assembly - You will have the following parts/components: a. b. c. d. e. f. g. h. i. j. k. l. m. The main bike frame assembly Fork Front wheel Handlebars Stem Seat/seat post Seat clamp (could be pre-installed onto frame, or in the parts box for an XTR) Headset parts Front rotor and 6 x T25 Torx head rotor bolts 2 x M5 caliper mount bolts Pedals Reflectors Optional Bike spikes (If equipped) 3. Assemble the bike from front to rear: Fork and Headset Find the fork and headset parts Figure 4 Headset parts on right, rotor and caliper bolts left, front wheel spikes (optional) lower left, fender/reflector mount bolt upper left Take the black plastic lower seal and place the rounded side down onto the headset bottom race already located on the fork (XTR - this step is not necessary, headset bottom seal is pre-installed) Figure 5 Lower fork seal, shown facing up, flip over, should face down towards fork crown Take the ball bearing race and place it onto the fork with the ball bearings facing up, and the race down toward the bottom race of the fork. (XTR - this step not necessary, bearings are pre installed into the headset) Figure 6 Seal and bearing installed onto fork, add more grease if desired The frame has some grease already in both races, we recommend adding a small amount of grease, if possible, to each bearing. It does not need to be packed full, just a light coating. (XTR - step not necessary) Figure 7 Pre-installed grease Take the 2nd ball bearing race and install it into the top bearing race on the frame. (XTR - step not necessary) Figure 8 Bearing installed in proper orientation, add more grease if desired Insert the fork into the frame Thread on the top adjustable race. This does not have to be adjusted at this moment, adjustment will come later. (On XTR models place the split plastic washer on, with protrusion facing down toward the frame, then the aluminum seal with rubber edge) Figure 9 Headset adjuster installed onto fork, hand tighten Take the keyed washer and put it onto the fork steerer tube. (On XTR place all black aluminum spacers onto the fork, large near bottom, thin at top) Figure 10 Keyed washer Install the lock nut on the top of the fork steerer tube. Adjustment is not necessary yet. (On XTR, use the stem, and Threadless cap to complete the assembly of the fork) Figure 11 Locking nut is last to be installed, hand tighten 4. Assemble the stem Take the stem and apply some grease to the threads of the quill expander center bolt near the wedge. (XTR - step not necessary) Figure 12 The expansion wedge and threads need grease to prevent corrosion Apply grease into the inside of the fork, where the stem will go to prevent rust and corrosion fusing the stem into the bike over time. (XTR - step not necessary) Figure 13 Add grease inside the fork steerer tube to allow the stem to be removed in the future Insert stem into fork, to the minimum insertion mark or further dependent on handlebar height desired. (XTR - step not necessary) Figure 14 Stem at minimum insertion height Tighten the stem quill expander bolt until the stem will stay in place. (XTR - step not necessary) Remove the bolts for the handlebar plate Figure 15 Stem with top plate removed, and bar placed Take the handlebar, and ensure the cables are not twisted, place into the stem, using the knurling as a guide to center the bar in the stem. Figure 16 Center the bar in the stem using the knurling as a guide Start each of the stem bolts by hand to prevent cross threading. Start with the bolts nearest the quill, and get at least one full turn on each prior to using tools. Figure 17 Start all 4 bolts with your fingers, and get one full rotation to ensure cross-threading does not occur Tighten each of the four bolts until handlebar will stay in place. Further adjustment will happen in the adjustment phase. 5. Assemble the front wheel Take the plastic caps off the axle, they are not needed any further. Find the brake rotor and observe the two sides. One side has stamped letters and arrows, the other side has no stamping at all. The stamped side will face outwards away from the wheel hub. (XTR rotors have small arrows on the “spokes” that lead up to the braking area) (For bikes equipped with front brakes) Figure 18 Rotor with stamping Position the brake rotor onto the hub, aligning the holes. Figure 19 Align the rotor to ensure proper mating to hub Take the 6 T25 Torx bolts and start each using your fingers to ensure they do not cross thread. Start all 6 of the bolts at this time. Figure 20 Start all 6 bolts with your fingers ensuring they do not cross-thread Thread all 6 bolts until they start to touch the rotor, do not torque any of the bolts until they are all in contact with the rotor. In either a circle or star pattern, torque each of the bolts. (2-4 NM or 18 in pounds) Figure 21 Using a T25 Torx wrench, tighten bolts until they touch, then torque each If installing the optional bike spikes, remove the axle nuts and begin to thread the spikes onto the axle for 2-3 turns. Please use the existing axle washers with the hook to prevent the wheel from coming out of the fork in the event an axle nut is not fully tight. Figure 22 Wheel installed, using spikes and axle retainer Insert the wheel into the fork, placing the hook of the axle washers into the hole above the axle area. Tighten the axle nuts/spikes using a 15mm wrench. (20 nm or 180 in pounds) 6. Assemble the seat Figure 23 Tighten nuts using a 15mm wrench Loosen the seat clamp using a 14mm wrench, to allow rotation of the seat post on the seat. Figure 24 Seat clamp on bottom of seat Placing the saddle on a flat surface, rotate the post until it is at a 45 degree angle pointed towards the nose/front of the saddle. Figure 25 Adjust angle of post for basic fit up Tighten the seat clamp. (Final angle and height adjustments will occur in the adjustment phase) Take grease, and apply a light coating on the first inch of the seat tube of the bike frame to prevent corrosion. Figure 26 Apply grease into seat tube of the frame If the seat post clamp is not installed on the frame, install it at this time. Take the seat and seat post and insert it into the frame past the minimum insertion point which is stamped into the post approximately 3 inches from the end. Tighten the quick release to allow the cam actuation to lock the post into the frame so that it cant twist easily. (On XTR - it might be necessary to use the cam first on a lighter setting, and use a 4mm allen to add tension after moving the cam to a lock position) Figure 27 Seat post clamp quick release shown in locked position 7. Install pedals Each pedal is marked with a sticker as well as a stamping on the pedal body, and end of axle denoting left and right. The right side of the bike is the side with the chain. Figure 28 Pedal denoted with an R - right side Take the right side pedal, add a small amount of grease to the threads, and thread it into the crank Do the same with the left pedal Figure 29 Left hand pedal denoted with an L on pedal body Use a 15mm wrench to tighten each pedal 8. Install reflectors (US DOT safety standards recommend all bikes have reflectors) a. The white reflector is installed onto the fork. A bolt, nut and washers are included in the parts box for its installation. b. The red reflector clamps onto the upper section of the seat post approximately 1 inch below the saddle if possible. Part 2: Final Adjustment 1. Handlebars We normally position the handlebar leaning slightly forward, where the crossbar is just above the from bolts of the stem, or a 5 degree forward lean. Adjust to desired angle, and tighten the handlebar bolts to 13 nm or 120 in pounds. Figure 30 Handlebars shown with slight lean forward 2. Sight through the stem to the front wheel and adjust the stem for straightness. Use a 6mm allen to tighten the quill expander bolt to 11 nm or 100 inch pounds. Figure 31 Using either the fork dropout or the centerline of the tire, center the stem and then tighten to full torque Brake levers- using a 5mm allen, loosen and rotate the levers to a desired angle and then tighten. 6 nm or 50 in pounds torque. Figure 32 Rotate the brake levers clockwise until they easily accessible If necessary, the grip shift for the 3 spd can be loosened and rotated, and retightened. Do not over-torque as it can break the plastic housing. Figure 33 Adjust the shifter until the window is easy to view Brake Calipers On the front brake begin by threading in the brake adapter arm fixing bolts into the fork and tightening to 11 nm or 100 in pounds Figure 34 The front brake mount bolts run through the fork into the aluminum arm that the brake rests on Thread the caliper bolts in, until the caliper movement is restricted, but still able to move slightly. Figure 35 Shown top and bottom, the caliper mount bolts are not fully threaded in from the factory, begin tightening to remove some movement, but allow small adjustment Sight through the brake, observing the space between the pads and the rotor. Your goal is to rotate the caliper so that there is equal space between the pads and rotor on both sides. We find using a brightly colored piece of paper on the floor helps us see the light between the pad and rotor. Figure 36 From the front, look through the brake comparing the brake pads to the rotor, and adjusting until the gap from the rotor is the same for both pads Tighten the caliper fixing bolts slightly, ensuring that adjustment remains constant. Repeat tightening once you are sure the caliper is at the correct angle. It may be necessary to bend the caliper mount arm slightly to true up the angle the caliper is at so the pads hit the rotor evenly. Repeat this process on the rear brake. Once the brake calipers are adjusted, the lever throw can be adjusted at the brake lever. Turning the adjuster clockwise increases throw, and moves the lever away from the handlebar. Moving counterclockwise with bring the lever closer. Turning the adjuster too far in either direction (4-5 turns or more) can affect braking performance, or cause the lever piston to become disconnected. 3. Headset Figure 37 Adjust the lever throw with the adjuster screw as shown below. Using a 36mm headset wrench, or a large crescent wrench, thread the adjustable upper cone down until there is no play in the headset, but rotation of the handlebars is not under resistance. Figure 38 Thread the adjustable cup until play is reduced or not existent Tighten the upper lock nut until it makes contact with the lock washer and the upper adjustment cone. Figure 39 Tighten the lock nut against the adjustable cup. Using a headset wrench, loosen the upper adjustable cup a quarter turn to lock it against the lock nut. Test adjustment by locking the front brake and rocking the bike backwards and forwards feeling for play. Repeat the adjustment if necessary. 4. Seat With the bike flat on the ground, crouch down and sight across the saddle from the side of the bike. Figure 310 Saddle after initial adjustment, nose up. At the most, the saddle tip and rear should be level. We normally adjust the tip down 12 notches. Figure 40 Our normal adjustment. Due to the springs, the riders weight will settle the saddle to a level adjustment Tighten the saddle clamp bolt to 20 nm or 180 in pounds Seat height is by personal preference. For longer distance riding, aim for the seat to be slightly higher, allowing for more complete extension of the leg. Your leg should not lock out, but have a 5-10 degree bend at the knee with the ball of the foot on the pedal. 5. Figure 41 Adjust height to riders preference using the quick release seat clamp. Gear Adjustment (for bikes with 3 spd internal hubs) By hand, pop the black protective cover off the adjuster area on bikes equipped with a Sturmey Archer hub. Figure 42 There are two adjusters under the plastic cover Loosen the fine tune adjuster 5- 7 turns. This adjuster is threaded in quite far from the factory. Figure 43 The fine tune adjuster is to the left as shown by the arrow In first gear on the shifter, take the front macro adjuster, and thread it out to remove the excess slack in the cable. 3-4 threads should be showing on the back side of the black arm. Figure 44 The macro adjuster is on the right, thread this out until 3-4 threads are showing like in the picture With the fine tune adjuster, tighten until you see the shifter pin chain start to move slightly. Figure 45 Use the fine tune adjuster to take up further slack until the chain moves slightly Tighten the lock nuts to finger tight and snap the protective cover back in place. 6. Crank Adjustment Start on the drive side (with chain) crank Using a 6mm allen, tighten both bolts to 100 in pounds. On the left side crank, loosen the pinch bolt first. Now, loosen the left side adjuster bolt 1 thread. With your fingers, attempt to twist the small shiny black ring between the crank arm and the bottom bracket bearing. If the ring can be moved slightly, but doesn’t spin freely, tighten the pinch bolt. Otherwise, tighten/loosen the adjuster bolt until the ring can move with mild resistance. Tighten both pinch bolts once again, then check the adjuster bolts to ensure they will not back out of the spindle. 7. Tires 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. We prefer the tire pressure to be set at 30 psi. Out of the box, the pressure is usually at 10 psi. Adding 5 pounds at a time, slowly inflate the tires. Ensure that the tire seats evenly on the rim. If necessary, using the palm of your hand, push in on the tire where the bead is too far outside the rim. The rib at the tire bead should be exposed 1-2 mm all around, in an even fashion. Add another 5 pounds, and again ensure even seating of the tire. Repeat this process until the tires reach 30 psi. If the tire looks uneven, remove air and try to reseat. Painted rims can be slick, and the tire bead can slide during inflation. 8. Finishing Touches To tidy up the cables and hoses, we like to use either spiral loop tubing or zip ties. Additionally, we add small zip ties to the frame cable guides to prevent them from opening up over time. Lastly, hose clips retain the brake hose onto the fork. To clean the whitewall tires, use a terry cloth towel and WD-40 to scrub dirty spots. Any automotive tire dressing will work on blackwall tires. On matte finishes, WD-40 works well to clean fingerprints, grease and other marks from the finish. We recommend using window cleaner and a microfiber cloth to clean the frame on gloss finishes. The chain is pre-lubricated from the factory using a wax compound. It should need little maintenance, however, over time try using a wax based lubricant which keep the chain working like new and reduce the mess oils leave behind. The brakes use an organic compound pad. Oils will contaminate these pads, so please keep lubricants away from the brake calipers. After your first ride, please check all nuts and bolts to ensure proper adjustment and tightness. After a month or 20-30 rides, tune the bike up, checking brake and shifter adjustment. Also check all nuts and bolts to ensure proper adjustment. It is always a good idea to check the bike over from time to time for safety purposes. Your new Soul Beach Cruiser is now ready to ride. We recommend checking torque and adjustment after the first ride, and then again after 20 rides. Assembly and adjustment videos are available on our website. If you need further support, please feel free to contact us via email or phone.