1958 Piper Tri-Pacer - Model Airplane News

1958 Piper Tri-Pacer
A super-scale electric classic
I was looking for a new electric park flyer
project and discovered, to my surprise,
that a Piper Tri-Pacer was not available.
Apparently, Berkeley and Sterling
produced the last Tri-Pacer kits back in the
1950s. Armed with 3-view drawing and my
CAD program, I produced a scale 36-inch
span electric model with a scale one-piece
plastic cowl. It was a cute little model,
but later I got the “bigger is better” bug.
I wanted to do a larger Tri-Pacer. Simply
enlarging my plans was not an option so
I started from scratch. I acquired some
original Piper factory plans, a complete
parts manual and photos and went to work.
I decided on 1/7 scale, which would
produce a 50.125-inch wingspan. A
removable wing made for easy access to
batteries and servos, and assembled, the
model would fit in the average minivan.
Rib positions are scale, and I wanted
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the control surfaces to be moved as
the original with hidden pushrods and
pull-pull cables. The cowl also would be
completely scale, built up using panels
just like the original. The cabin includes a
scale instrument panel, control wheels,
and would incorporate the hump over
the instrument panel added to install
additional IFR equipment in the later
The model uses typical, balsa, lite-ply,
open structure construction covered with
your favorite film or fabric covering (I used
Solartex). There are a couple of “fiddly bits”
that you could dispense with, including the
scale aileron control horns, nose gear, and
the enclosed elevator control arm. These
all can be substituted for conventional
external pushrods and control horns and
a simplified commercial nose gear. This
article is for the scale version.
Start with the tail feathers. Fin, rudder,
stabilizer, and elevators are conventional
outline parts and stick assemblies, with
two exceptions. Part F-10 is not glued on
at this time. Bend the wire elevator joiner,
and make the brass pushrod arm. Solder
both together at the angle shown on the
plan detail. This is a critical joint so make
it good. Epoxy the elevator halves and the
joiner together, aligning with the stabilizer.
Hinge slots can be cut but not joined.
Round off and sand all outside edges
smooth, and then check the parts with
temporary assembly.
Prepare for the fuselage by assembling
the former parts F-1B& F-1BB, F-2B L&R,
F-2T L&R, and F-3T L&R. Now start the
fuselage by building frames over the two
side views, using 1/8-inch balsa sticks,
lite-ply LG-1, and F-8 one over the other
separated by waxed paper. Pay attention
to the aft end of the longerons’ notch
and shape as indicated on the plans. Pin
the two side frames (top down) over the
fuselage top view. Insert formers F-2B,
F-3B, and F-4B, top down and square to
the sides. This section must be aligned and
square. Bring the tail ends together adding
the spacers top and bottom. Formers TT,
TF, and TB should interlock, leaving a
Tail surfaces are built over the plane. Shown here are the laser cut parts from
Here the fuselage side framework has been assembled and the top formers
installed. To see more photos of the build, go to ModelAirplaneNews.com/tripacer.
made in pairs, so clear acetate can be
strong square tail section.
sandwiched between them. Assemble the
Add firewall formers F-1B and BB to the
forward wing hold down section stacking
extensions. Make sure they are centered
formers CS 5, 4, 3, 2, parallel to F2-T, sand
and square. Add the two bottom stringers
to the shape of the wing
and install both landing
center section later.
gear support doublers.
Epoxy the hardwood
Turn the fuselage
Model: 1958 Piper Tri-Pacer
nose gear strut to the
structure upright and
Scale: 1/7 scale
lite-ply NG-2 part. Drill
install the top formers.
Wingspan: 50 1/8 in.
a vertical hole matching
F-1T through F-4T are
Wing area: 437 sq. in.
NG-2 to accept a 1/8-ID
parallel to the lower
Weight: 46 oz.
brass tube. Insert the
section while F-5 and
Motor: Turnigy 3536/6
tube and file the top
F-6 should be vertical.
1250KV (hobbyking.com)
and bottom smooth.
Complete the top
Propeller: MasterAirscrew 10
Epoxy the motor mount
stringers. Bend the main
x 6 E (masterairscrew.com)
parts into their slots in
gear wire legs to shape,
the firewall. The nose
then bind and epoxy
gear can be as simple as a bent wire with
them to the hardwood blocks. Align the
a wheel on it, or as scale as you would like.
ends, bind and solder leaving the axle
Drawings and patterns are provided on the
Add the battery floor, installing each
Fit the vertical fin’s forward tab into
side separately. The window panels are
Here the forward cabin and firewall areas take shape. Notice the battery tray, it is
made in two pieces and is installed one side at a time.
the slot in F-6, align it vertically and glue.
Check the fit the stabilizer assuring it is 90
degrees to the fin, and remove. Now cover
the stabilizer, elevators, and rudder. Hinge
the stabilizer and elevators together and
re-insert into the fuselage and glue. Install
the elevator clevis to the pushrod arm and
check for smooth operation. Rudder will be
added later.
Fuselage Final assembly
Install the servos now and attach the
elevator pushrod, nose gear flex cable, and
the pull-pull cords for the rudder. Hinge
the rudder in place and temporarily attach
the cords to the rudder horns and servo
arm. Mark the exit positions of the cords
where the covering will be. Now cover the
fuselage starting with the back top applied
in two parts. The top right side starts with
former F-4 and continues back down the
top center stringer and up across the entire
Here the fuselage and tail feathers are all covered and ready for paint and finish.
Take your time on the fin-to-fuselage transition.
JULY 2015 91
Here is the wing center section taking shape. When complete it will bolt to the top
of the fuselage and have two alignment dowels in front.
fin, down the rudder post across the top of
former F-7, and returns to F-4. This makes
the Piper’s smooth fabric transition from
the fuselage across the fin to the tail post
all with one piece. Repeat for the left side.
The rest of the fuselage is pretty traditional
and easy. Punch exit holes and thread the
rudder cords through the covering.
Start the wing center section by
1958 Piper Tri-Pacer |
The left wing panel is being assembled with the addition of the ribs added to the
main spar. When the right wing panel is added, this panel will be lifted off the
boards at an angle and should be supported.
assembling the right and left front and rear
spars with the doublers. Laminate together
ribs A and AA. Make sure to make left and
right sets. Position the spars over the plans
and add the rib and the bottom plate. Add
the top formers and check their alignment
with the fuselage. Insert the top keel and
the two circular BC parts. These are for
covering attachment around the wing hold
down bolt openings. I used round Avery
labels to cover the holes. The front hold-
Designed by Bill Bradley, this 1/7-scale electric powered Piper PA-22 Tri-Pacer is a scale
model with lots of detail. It is electric powered using a Turnigy 3536/6 1250KV motor
and a 10 x 6 E-propeller. It uses traditional balsa and plywood construction and is a
great flyer but not a floater. The CAD plans are highly detailed and complete. WS: 50 1/8
in.; Length: 35.6 in., Power: brushless outrunner; Radio: 4-channel; LD: 3; 4 sheets; $35.95
To order the full-size plan, visit AirAgeStore.com
92 ModelAirplaneNews.com
down dowels complete the center section.
Align the left wing spars over the plans.
The right wing spars will be in the air, so
support as needed. Laminate rib GG to rib
G. Join the left trailing edge spar parts and
align with the plans and add the remaining
ribs as indicated. Join the two left inside
leading edge parts and insert into the
front ribs. Glue the 2-piece balsa leading
edge together and while aligning it flat on
the workbench, glue across all rib leading
edges. Insert the forward top stringer
and apply the top leading edge sheeting,
notching it for the landing light inset. Add
the wingtip parts, then remove the wing
from the board. Finish and fit the landing
light parts, add the bottom stringer and
the leading-edge sheeting. Finish with the
wing tip filler blocks and the servo mounts.
The ailerons and flaps are typical
construction, starting with the base
sheeting on the plans. Add the leading
and trailing edge parts then the ribs.
The aileron and flap internal hinges are
assembled from fiddly plywood parts,
P h o t o b y D av i D h a r t
so take your time. Test-fit the flaps and
ailerons, using 1/16-inch wire for hinge
pins. Assure smooth movement then
remove the flap and aileron and finish the
wing’s trailing edge. Install the two-part
ply top trailing edge. Dampen and install
the curved 1/32-inch balsa filler under
the trailing edge and cut slot for the hinge
extensions. Refer to the plan’s crosssection and sand the leading edges and
wing tip blocks to shape. Install the servos,
flap pushrods and again check for smooth
movement. Now repeat the process for the
right wing panel with the exception of the
landing light, then cover both wing panels.
Final Touches
For the wing struts use shaped hardwood
or the K&S small and medium streamlined
tubes. Large modified Du-Bro (removable
pin) hinges are used for the bottom attach
points and small pinned hinges are used
at the top. The wing struts are designed to
stay on the wing and fold flat down, when
the wing is removed for battery change
and during storage. Only the single point
fuselage attach pin and the two hold-down
screws need to be removed. The Tri-Pacer
had metal cuffs that enclosed the wing
attach points and streamlined the joints.
Patterns are shown on the plans.
The scale plastic cowling (from
Parkflyerplastics.com) is trimmed and
assembled from the molded parts.
Assemble the three parts of the 1/8 liteply cowl former C-1, and epoxy inside
the back edge of the cowling. Epoxy the
magnets and the ¼ dowel alignment pins.
I used 0.3mm plastic sheet to fabricate the
front and rear cabin doors, baggage door,
PiPer’s classic 4-Place
The Piper PA-20 Pacer was essentially a four-place version of the two-place PA-17 Vagabond.
It was originally designed as a tailwheel aircraft and, in early 1951, Piper introduced the new
nose-wheel-equipped PA-22 Tri-Pacer. This solved the poor “over the nose” visibility typical of
tail-draggers, and close to 8,000 Tri-Pacers were built before 1960. Powered with engines from 125
to 160 horsepower, all PA-22s featured steel tube and fabric construction.
Budd Davisson, Editor-in-Chief of our sister publication Flight Journal and longtime contributor
to Model Airplane News, made his solo flight at the age of 17 in Tri-Pacer N8518D. Forty-nine years
later, Mr. Davisson wrote one of his famous Flight Reports, titled “Tri-Pacers Rule” and said, “the
Piper Tri-Pacer may be the best-kept four-place secret in vintage aviation.” Having owned two
Tri-Pacers myself, I would have to humbly say that I agree with Mr. Davisson.
and wing tank covers. A complete laser cut
short kit, including plastic cowl is available
from Manzanolaser.com.
in The air
The model is solid in the air and flies like
a Tri-Pacer. It performs well with a single
3S 2200mAh LiPo pack but it is not a
Here you see the scale shape of the flaps. All the parts are shown on the plans,
drawn with CAD for accuracy.
floater. For best ground handling and
flight performance, set the nose wheel to
minimum throw and balance the plane
so the center of gravity is about ¼ inch
behind the main spar. Hope you like it!
For more construction photos and a free
downloadable 3-view drawing, go to
ModelAirplaneNews.com/tripacer. 
The vacuum-formed engine cowl from Parkflyerplastics.com is easy to assemble
from the parts shown here.
JULY 2015 93
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