L
*
r
You are now the owner of a new White zigzag sewing machine which
is
acclaimed for its advanced design and sewing performance.
Its exclusive built-in features include such things as declutching bobbin
winder, buttonholes produced by just turning a dial, three needle positions,
twin needle sewing, stretch stitch, blind stitch and other stitch designs
to
inspire you to do creative work.
To aid you in obtaining the greatest performance from your new
White this
book on its care and use has been written for you. Readthe instructions
carefully as a thorough understanding of your machine will reward
you with
many hours of trouble-free creative sewing.
Time saving attachments such as rufflers, binders, edgestitchers
, cording
feet and others to complement the accessories furnished with
your White
are available from the store where you purchased your machine.
White Sewing Machine Company
11750 Berea Road
Cleveland, Ohio 44111
White Consolidated Industries, Ltd.
1470 Birchmount Road
Scarborough 733, Ontario, Canada
—
—.-—————
1
.
INDEX
.
-4
[Page]
4
4
4
:
Features and Parts
Needle Thread Chart
Winding the Bobbin
Upper Threading
Setting the Needle
Threading the Bobbin Case
Placing the Bobbin Case In Shuttle
Setting the Stitch Length
Stitch Length Chart
Sewing in Reverse
Adjusting the Tensions
Adjusting Pressure and Feed
General Sewing
Light Weight Fabrics
Darning and Mending
Preparing to Sew
Removing the Work
Straight Stitching
Setting Needle Position
Twin Needles
Creative Embroidery
Decorative Stitch Designs
Feather Stitch
Multiple Zigzag Stitches
Blind Stitch Hem
Basting Stitch
Buttonholes
Sewing on Buttons
Embroidery with a Hoop
2-3-4
5
6-7
8-9
10
11
12
13
13
14
14
15
15
15
16
16
17
18-19
20
21
22-23
24.25
26
26
27
28
29-30
31-32
32
[Page]
Circular and Scallop Designs
Manual Operation
Overcasting Worn Edges
Patching
Applique
How to Use Accessories
Narrow Hemmer
Lace Trimmed Hem
Lace Edge with Invisible Stitch
French Seam
Hemming across a Seam
Quilting Guide
Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide
Cording and Zipper Foot
Sewing in a Zipper
Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle
Care and Maintenance of Your Machine
How to Oil Your Machine
How to Replace Light Bulb
Accessories
Trouble Chart
Extra Attachments
Attachment Foot
Edgestitcher
Binder
Hemmers
Ruffler
Additional Cam Stacks
Installing Machine Head
33
34
34
34
34
35-39
35
35
36
36
36
37
37
38
38
40-41
41-42
41-42
42
43
44-46
48-56
49
49-50
51
52-53
54-55
56
57-58
t
aD
D
cj;
I
U
:1
—)
VT
D
3
FEATURES AND PARTS
F
(Front View)
® Take Up
©
Pattern Selector Lever
© Pressure Release (Darning)
®
Decorative Pattern Plate
® Arm Thread Guides
Zigzag Stitch Width Control
® Zigzag Stitch Width Lock
®
Needle Clamp Screw
© Needle Position Control
©
Needle Plate
© Buttonhole Control
®
Cover Plate
Hand Wheel
Circle Stitching Holes
® Stitch Length Control
Presser Foot
® Bobbin Winder
Attachment and Foot Thumb Screw
1)
Bobbrn Winder Tension
Thread Guide
©
Push Button Reverse
Tension
©
Drop Feed Control
Sew Lite Switch
4
b.
Fig. 2
®
Head Hinge mounting Holes
Presser Bar Lifter
®
Thread Cutter
j Spool Pins
j Cam Cover Door
•r
5
H:
TITCHING GUIDE
NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC -S
Fabric
Extremely heavy
tarpaulin, sacking,
canvas, duck, etc.
Heavy upholstery fabric,
ticking, denim, leatherette
H:
:
Medium heavy drapery
fabric, velveteen, suiting,
felt, terry, etc.
Medium broadcloth,
percale, gingham, linen,
chintz, taffeta, sheer wool,
sharitung, etc.
Sheer voile, lawri,dimity,
crepe, handkerchief linen,
plastic film, etc.
Very sheer chiffon,
batiste, lace, organdy,
ninon, net, marquisette,
etc.
Needle
No
Machine
Stitches
Per Inch
Cotton
Thread
Mercerized
Thread
4
6 to 8
10 to
30
Heavy Duty
3
BtolO
30 to
40
Heavy Duty
2
10 to 12
40 to
60
Heavy Duty
1
12 to 14
6Oto
80
50
A
0
14 to 16
(Plastic film)
8 to 10
80 to
100
50
A
16 to 20
100 to
150
50
A
Silk or
Nylon
I
00
I
6
b
b.
Fig. 3
b
b.---
4
WINDING THE BOBBIN
Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins
Lead thread through arm thread guides, (A, Fig 3)
and down between tension disc, 10, at the base of
the machine.
Put end of thread through a hole in bobbih flange
(Fig. 5) from inside to outside and place bobbin,
(8, Fig 3) on spindle of bobbin winder ( 9 Fig 4)
fitting the notch in bobbin over small pin on spindle
Push bobbin winder pulley against hand wheel
which will declutch the sewing mechanism. Hold
thread end loosely and start machine slowly.
Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. By
moving the bobbin winder from the hand wheel, it
-
-
-
j
Fig. 5
will engage the sewing mechanism. Approximately
one turn of the hand wheel may be required to
completely engage the sewing mechanism
Break off loose thread end used to start the
winding.
4
4
4
44
1
8
Fig.6
G
A
9
UPPER THREADING (Fig. 6)
1. Place spool of thread on left hand spooi pin.
2. Lead thread through upper thread guides(A),
3. down and around tension discs (B) from right
to left,
4. into check spring(C),
5. continue to
pull
on thread until it hooks over
hook(D),
6. up into take up from right to left,
7. down into thread guide(F),
8. through the needle bar thread guide(G); and,
9. into needle from FRONT to BACK. Pull three or
four inches of thread through needle.
Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn wheel
toward you until the needle goes all the way down
and comes back up. A loop (Fig. 7) will be formed
3
3
3
over the upper thread which then can be pulled out
straight. Place both thread ends under the presser
draw toward the back of the machine,
leaving both threads three or four inches long.
foot
and
Fig. 7
10
:
SETTING THE NEEDLE
See Fig. 8.
Raise the needle bar (A) to its highest point, turning hand wheel toward
you by hand. Then loosen the needle clamp screw (B) and the needle can be inserted
into clamp.
Place needle (Flat Side to BACK) in the needle clamp and push it upward as far as it
will go into the needle clamp hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely with a
screw driver.
After changing the needle, make one complete revolution of the hand wheel by hand to be sure
-
the needle is in the correct position.
j
L
:
fr
F
Fig. 8-A
Fig. 8
C
:.
I
11
3
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 9). Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of left
hand, so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top, take the bobbin between
thumb and forefinger of right hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right.
Step 2 Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin case as
shown in Fig. 10, and draw it under the tension spring and into the fork-shaped opening
of the spring as shown in Fig. 11.
—SLOT
3
3
3
Fig. 9
3
4
Fig. 11
12
PLACING BOBBIN CASE
I
Raise needle bar to highest position, and lift hinged
cover plate. (See 18 Fig. 1) Hold the bobbin case
-
latch (D, Fig. 12), between the thumb and forefinger
of the left hand, with at least three inches of thread
-
running from the top of the bobbin case to the
right. Insert and center the bobbin case on the stud
of the shuttle body, (C). Be sure the bobbin case
finger is opposite the shuttle race notch, (A).
0
Fig. 12
Press the bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as
possible until latch catches on the center post of
the shuttle. Then release the bobbin case latch,
(D). Press bobbin case again after latch has been
released to make sure the bobbin case is locked
j
‘
securely.
Close the cover plate.
:
13
SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH
The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial
shown in Fig. 13-A. Near 0 is the shortest stitch
and 8 is the longest, but the dial may be set at any
spot between marking for a variety of lengths.
Turn the dial to the right to lengthen and to the
left to shorten the stitch. The number stitch length
you choose appears under the indicator.
The A and B settings are for the reverse stitch designs.
(Sewing stretch fabrics, etc.)
Fig. 13-A
3
STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate)
3
Figures on indicator
Number of stitches per inch
0
1
2
No Feeding
50
30
3
4
20f 12
5
6
7
8
10
8
7
6
El
*4
SEWING IN REVERSE
When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam,
press in the button R,11, Fig. 1, as far down as it will go.
The machine will sew
backward as long as the button is held down.
ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS
Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is released
when it is raised. To increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) to
the right. To decrease, turn to the left..
Before adjusting lower tension be sure that the machine is
threaded properly. When necessary to change the bobbin ten
sion, turn small screw (Fig. 14) on side of the bobbin case
clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.
When the upper tensions are properly balanced, a perfect
b
—
stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric
(Fig. 15).
When the upper tension is too tight, the lower thread is pulled
up over the upper thread which is lying flat on the fabric (Fig.
16). When the upper tension is too loose, the upper thread
forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on the fabric
(Fig. 17).
Fg. 13
c
‘5
Fig. 15
n
1
Fig. 16
j
Fig. 17
Fig. 14
Fig. 18
ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC
4
General Sewing.
Usually for normal sewing the pressure bar cap
or darner release, 2, Fig. 18, is at its lowest position and the
drop feed knob is turned to “HI” position, Fig. 19.
Sewing Thin or Light Weight Fabrics. When lighter pressure is
required to sew satisfactorily on thin silk or flimsy material, the
pressure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way
by pressing the snap lock, (A, Fig. 20), and then press cap (B)
down again to halfway spot.
Lower the feed slightly by turning
the black dot on the knob to “LO” position.
1:
Fig 19
16
Darning and Mending.
In order to move the fabric freely in
any direction for darning, and mending, release the pressure
cap B completely by pressing down on the snap lock, (A, Fig.
20).
Turn the knob to “DN” position, which drops the feed well
below the needle plate. To return feed to normal, return knob
to “HI”.
PREPARING TO SEW
Have take-up
lever at highest point before starting to sew.
Fig. 20
Do not try to help the feeding by pulling the material as this
may deflect the needle and cause it to break.
NEVER run machine without material under the presser foot.
Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser
foot.,
Turn
the
hand wheel
toward
you
until the
needle
is
at
its
highest
point. You
are
now ready to begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary
to touch the hand wheel to start the machine.
You
merely
press the control.
The
speed of the machine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressi.re
exerted on the control.
17
REMOVING THE WORK
Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle bar are at the
highest position. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left,
Figs.21-A and B, and pass the threads over the thread cutter. Pull down slightly,
holding thread in both hands, so as not to bend the needle. Leave the ends of thread
under the presser foot.
V
r.
JfrN
Ii
Fig. 21-B
Fig. 21-A
-
<a-—rfl
,.$c, rr
-4
-3-
*Y(
----
-
-
18
STRAIGHT STITCHING
For straight sewing on fine fabric
or very soft material, it is advisable
to use the straight stitch presser
foot and the straight stitch needle
plate which are included in your
accessory box. Both have narrow
needle slots.
Fig. 23
CHANGE AS FOLLOWS
To change presser foot (20 Fig. 1) loosen thumb screw and remove zigzag foot. Replace
with hinged straight foot and tighten screw securely (Fig. 23).
To change needle plate (17 Fig. 1) remove screw and lift off with cover plate attached.
Hold needle plate with right hand and cover plate with the left (Fig. 22).
Press upper corner of cover plate (right side up) down slightly and slip pin from groove
in needle plate. Avoid using too much pressure. When the pin is released the two
plates will separate.
Attach cover plate to straight stitch plate by reversing the above procedure.
Slip pin on lower side of cover plate into groove on needle plate. Insert tongue into
square opening and slide upper pin into positon. Put plates on machine and fasten
securely with needle plate screw.
‘
19
When using the straight stitch needle plate and foot, be sure to make the following
setting before starting to sew or the needle will break in striking the foot or needle
plate. (See Fig. 24)
1. Set needle position control (5) at “C” position.
2. Set buttonhole control (6) at “M” position.
3. Turn zigzag width lock (4) to the left as far as
possible.
This will put the zigzag control (15) in the OFF
position.
4. Set
decorative
stitch
selector
lever
(13)
in
straight stitch position.
This is done by pulling the lever out as far as it
I!
will go and placing it in its lowest position.
5. Set
stitch
length
control (8) to
any
desired
stitch sizes.
See Page 13 for stitches per inch.
Fig. 24
•
•
20
SETTING NEEDLE POSITION
The needle bar should be at its highest point when adjusting needle position to avoid
tearing the fabric or bending the needle.
Select needle position by turning control A, Fig. 25.
“R” indicates the right hand position
-
4.
“C” center
and “L” left.
The “C” position is where most of your work will
4.’
4
be done.
“I
Straight stitching.
Stretch stitching.
Buttonholes.
Designs.
Twin needle sewing.
Hundreds of other uses.
The left and right hand position can be used for:
Straight stitch (cording and so forth)
Decorative designs.
Hundreds of other uses.
Fig. 25
The left hand position is best for sewing on buttons.
4.-
a
4?
21
TWIN NEEDLES-UPPER THREADING AND SEWING
1. Be sure zigzag needle plate and presser foot are in place.
2. Use center needle position only.
3. Follow threading instructions for single needle with these exceptions:
a. Place two spools of thread, matching or contrasting in color, one on each spool
pin.
b. Lead both threads through arm thread guides.
c. Bring threads down and around tension discs with one thread passing between
the back discs and the other between the front discs.
Now treat both threads as one until you reach the needle eye.
d. Pass one thread through each needle eye (Fig. 26).
4. The maximum zigzag stitch width that can be sewn with twin needles
is indicated by the black lines on the zigzag width control (15,Fig. 24)
The twin needles will break if the zigzag width control is set beyond
the last black line.
5. Straight stitching and decorative stitch designs can be produced in
the same manner as for single needle sewing except for the maximum
zigzag width.
Fig. 26
22
CREATIVE EMBROIDERY (MANUAL)
Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are in place.
1. Set buttonhole control (6, Fig. 24) at “M” position.
(Bar Tack position)
2. Set
pattern
Zigzag (
selector lever (13,
A/P) position.
Fig.
24) at
I
I
Manual
I
I
3. Set needle position control (5, Fig. 24) at “L” position.
I
Fig. 27
4. With the zigzag width control
(15, Fig. 24) set at the Number 5 and stitch
length
control (8, Fig. 24) as near 0 as
possible without stopping the feeding
action, a
satin stitch is produced (Fig. 27).
5. With the machine set for a short stitch
length, different designs can be
made by
turning the zigzag width control back
and forth between 0 and 5 or any
other
combinations of widths. Try setting the
zigzag width Control (15, Fig. 24) at
the first
line and the various other lines.
A
Set a rhythm for yourself and then
proceed.
After a while you will become quite
B MMW
skillful, varyin g your designs by the speed of
the machine,
stitch length and manipulation of
the zigzag
width control.
D
2,.4
Fig. 27.A
I
c I
1
j1
CI
I
•
I
I
23
OIDERY (MANUAL)
SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBR
(See Fig. 27-A)
aa
for a short
then allow knob to spring back to 0
Sew a few stitches at 5 width
establish a rhythm.
period. Count, if necessary, to
ly back and
second line then move the control slow
Set zigzag width control at the
ber 5.
forth between the Stop and Num
rol from the Stop to 5
first line. Gradually move the cont
“C” Set zigzag width at the
allowing it to snap back quickly.
“B”
stitches. Drop feed
th at 2. Sew a few zigzag
Setzigzag width at 5, stitch leng
drop feed knob
raise it again. By operating the
(12,Fig.24) for 3 or 4 stitches then
to count stitches.
rhythmically it is not necessary
t of the controls,
tion and varying the movemen
By changing the needle posi
uced.
hundreds of designs can be prod
at the number
tion and lock zigzag width control
Set drop feed knob at Down posi
c on needle
, leave needle in fabric and pivot fabri
5 position. Take 3 or 4 stitches
Lock threads
until flower design is completed.
to make next daisy petal. Continue
of design.
sewing 3 or 4 stitches in center
by setting stitch width at 0 and
—
1
24
DECORATIVE STITCH DESIGNS
(See Fig. 28)
To
sew the
decorative stitch
designs,
‘1
set the
machine as follows:
1. Needle position control (5) at “C”.
-I
-)
2. Buttonhole control (6) at “M”.
3. Zigzag
width control (15) at number
designs with the greatest width.
At the
0
position,
5
for
the
machine will sew a
straight stitch regardless of the position of
selector lever (13).
J
4. Pull out pattern selector Lever (13) and raise
or lower it to desired stitch design setting.
5. When
selecting
designs (marked
forward-and-reverse
stitch
i
“A”
or “B” on decorative
pattern plate (14, or Fig. 29) it will be neces
sary to position the stitch length control (8)
at its “A” or “B” position.
This is done by pressing down the reverse
stitch button (11) and turning control knob (8)
to desired position.
Fig. 28
25
Various combinations of stitch designs can be made by leaving the
stitch length control (8) at the “A” or “B” position and placing lever
PR5
A
(13) in a position other than the “A” or “B” setting.
6. Set control (8) at the “A” position and place lever (13) for multiple
stitch zigzag design for square stitch design.
Fig. 30
7. With control (8) at the “B” position, move lever (13) to zigzag position
for rick-rack design.
Fig. 31
Fig. 29
8. 20 other designs are available by just placing the controls in different positions.
9. The density of the stitch patterns illustrated on decorative pattern plate (Fig. 29)
except designs “A” and “B” are controlled by the stitch length control (8, Fig. 28).
Set stitch length control as close to 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action
for a very compact design. By increasing the feed, the design will increase in length
but the stitches will not be so compact.
10. The versatility of your machine will become apparent as you practice with the
different design patterns and the adjustment available with the zigzag width control
and stitch length.
PLEASE NOTE:
1. When changing the position of the pattern selector lover, be sure to stop the machine, with the
needle at its highest point.
2. Before sewing, make sure that the selector lever is fixed firmly in the position you desire.
I
I
26
FEATHER STITCH
This stitch design can be used for decorative work and when sewing stretch fabrics. With
the zigzag stitch width control (15, Fig.28) set at number 5 the greatest width is obtained.
Do not set stitch width above number 3 when using twin needles. When sewing stretch
I
fabrics set the zigzag width control at 0. (See pages 24 and 25).
—
___;—
___>-
—
__..%_
‘%._,.
,>
,;-_—
Fig. 32
MULTIPLE ZIGZAG STITCHES
Use when replacing worn blanket bindings for both a decorative and durable finish, when
overcasting an edge to prevent fraying, also when applying elastic waist bands to skirts and
dresses.
Be sure to stretch the elastic as it is applied to insure fullness required in the
garment.
There are hundreds of other uses for these stitch designs which will become apparent as
you use the machine.
‘E1
p.
4%
4%
Fig. 33
.4/
/
/
4%
4%
-
_
‘
4%
/
‘4
.4,
.4,
44
‘b’
Fig. 34
.4
--
1
27
BLIND STITCH HEM
Use standard zigzag foot. (Fig. 35)
Set stitch length control at number 3 or 4.
Needle position control at “Center” position.
Zigzag stitch width to suit material being sewn.
The lower the number, the smaller the sidewise stitch.
Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost
invisible and comparable to hand sewing.
Fig. 35
Prepare the garment in the same manner as for hand hemming.
STEP
1
COMPLETED
S/
Fig. 36
I-
Step 1. (Fig. 36) If hem with folded edge is used make first fold 3/8” deep.
Step 2. Turn hem to the depth desired and bast 1/4” from upper edge. Press in place.
Step 3. Fold hem back toward right side of garment leaving 1/4” extended.
Step 4. Place material under presser foot, sew with stitch length set to suit material being
sewn and make a side wise stitch about every 3/4” of an inch of sewing.
___
__________
__________
28
BASTING STITCH
1. Use the zigzag foot and needle plate.
2. Set machine for blind stitch.
(
yy-
)
3. Set stitch length control at the number 3 position.
The higher the number, the longer the stitch.
4. Set zigzag width control at the number 5 position.
5. Set needle positioncontrol(5, Fig.28)at “L”.
6. Set the knob on the race cover to the basting position
(Red mark), Fig. 37.
Fig. 37
7. Thread the needle as illustrated. (Fig. 38).
8. Cotton thread is the best for basting and a tension adjust
ment may be required for light weight fabrics.
9. Pick up lower thread.
It may be necessary to turn the hand
wheel three or four times before you pick up the thread.
10. For best results sew at a slow speed approximately 600
to 700 stitches per minute.
II
1 1. Don’t forget to push back the basting knob to the normal
sewing position (Black mark) when you finish basting.
a
a
29
BUTTONHOLES
.‘
I!
‘“I
1••
Various widths and lengths can be made automatically by
turning the dial (15,Fig. 28).
To establish the correct length buttonhole required add ) inch
to the cutting space for bar tacks.
To obtain the length of the cutting space, the opening through
which the button passes, is measured by adding the width (A)
and thickness (B) of the button (Fig. 41).
The width of the buttonhole sides are governed by the material
used. Set zigzag stitch width control on number 5 for thick
material and a lower number for thin material.
Mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on fabric with
a basting line or tailor’s chalk.
Make one on scrap fabric
following directions below to be sure machine adjustments are
Corrrect.
1. Replace presser foot with special purpose buttonhole foot.
This providesmaximumvisibilityand allows closely spaced
stitches to feed evenly (Fig. 40).
2. Set needle in center position (5, Fig. 28).
Fig. 39
FIg. 40
3. Set zigzag stitch width control (15, Fig. 28) to suit material
being sewn or width of buttonhole desired (number 5 for
the widest buttonhole).
Set stitch length control (8 Fig. 28) as close
possible without stopping the feeding action.
to
0
r
as
Fig. 41
30
to sew the
5. Set buttonhole control dial (Fig. 43)
left side (Step 1). Lower needle carefully into mark
on fabric indicating the end of the buttonhole. Lower
presser food and sew entire length of buttonhole
(Forward feeding).
6. With needle out of the cloth, set buttonhole control
dial for bar tack (Step 2). Sew 4 or 5 stitches.
7. With needle out of cloth, set buttonhole control dial
to sew right side of the buttonhole (Step 3). This
will reverse the feeding motion.
tIN
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
FIg. 42
8. With needle out of the cloth, set buttonhole control
dial for bar tack (Step 4). Sew 4 or 5 stitches.
PLEASE NOTE;
1. If you plan to make buttonhole on sheer or soft material, place
tarlatan or paper under cloth. This can be torn away after stitching.
2. Before turning buttonhole control knob, always make sure that the
decorative stitch control lever is set in the manual zigzag position.
3. Should you prefer to sew the right hand side reverse stitch) of the
buttonhole first start with step 7 and continue as follows with steps
6,5and8.
CAUTION:
DO NOT TURN BUTTONHOLE CONTROL KNOB TO THE RIGHT UNLESS
THE MACHINE IS SET FOR ZIGZAG STITCHING AS IT WILL PUSH THE
DECORATIVE CAM STACK OUT OF POSITION.
TO CORRECT, TURN BUTTONHOLE CONTROL KNOB BACK TO BAR
TACK AND PUSH CAM STACK BACK INTO POSITION.
ANY TIME PATTERNS ARE NOT PRODUCED AS ILLUSTRATED ON
DECORATIVE STITCH PANEL, CHECK CAM STACK TO SEE IF IT IS IN
AS FAR IT WILL GO.
Fig. 43
Step 4
31
SEWING ON BUTTONS
1. Remove presser foot and replace with special purpose button
sewing foot (Fig. 45).
2. Turn drop feed knob to “DN” position (Fig. 44).
3. Set zigzag width control at “0”.
4. Set needle position control at “L” and pattern selector lever at
Manual (MvWvWJ).
Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the
presser foot. (Fig. 46)
5. Set the zigzag width control to produce a zigzag stitch until the
needle enters the right hand hole of the button. Turn the balance
wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle clears both holes in the
button. Correct width if necessary.
6. When needle goes into the center of each hole, run the machine at
a medium speed, making five or six stitches, stopping with the
needle in the left hole.
7. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent ravelling,
set the zigzag stitch width control to 0 (remem
bering its original setting),and take a few stitches
in the same hole. If you wish, you may place a
rounded toothpick over the button between the
two holes, and sew button to fabric in the regular
Remove the toothpick and wind thread
way.
under button forming a shank to fasten.
Fig. 44
Fig. 45
L
32
Apply the above method to sew on buttons with four holes, hooks, snaps and so on. If a
four-hole buttor is to be sewn, follow the same procedure above for the two hole button.
Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit stitching the remaining two holes.
Fig. 48
EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP
It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work free hand when embroidering or monogram
ming. (See Fig. 49). Release the pressure from the foot by pressing down the snap lock on
the darner. Turn the drop feed knob to “DN” position See Fig. 44).
Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and place under the needle aft€r removing the
presser foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer and lower the presser bar lifter.
Then operate the machine at a. rather high speed while moving the hoop slowly with both
hands. Work carefully and be sure, to keep fingers out of the path of the needle.
Shoulci yoq eflcounter skip stitches the fabric is not stretched tight enough or a darning
spring is needed (see attachments available from your dealer illustrated in the back of this
book).
I
00 e
Fig. 48
1
I
Fig. 49
I
33
CIRCULAR AND SCALLOP DESIGNS
With the use of a straight pin and the holes in the machine at
the left of the needle (Fig. 50) you can sew an unlimited
number of circular and scallop designs.
The first hole will produce a two inch circle with the following
holes increasing the diameter by one inch.
make a five inch circle.
The last hole will
Perfect scallops are produced by sewing only a portion of a
circle. The depth of the scallop is governed by how much of
the circle is used.
Circular and scallop designs can be used for almost anything,
scallop designs for trimming the hem of a dress, drapes, edge
of table cloths and hundreds of other items.
FIg. 50
Make scallops as follows:
1. Line fabric on wrong side of depth of scallop and center line of
circle.
2. Sew scallop on wrong side of material.
3. Cut around scallop about 1/8 inch from stitching.
for a smooth even turned edge.
Some fabrics may require notching
4. Turn gently, roll out scallop between fingers and press.
34
MANUAL OPERATION
are in place and machine is
Be sure standard zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate
set for manual operation. Use for:
OVERCASTING WORN EDGES
c as the needle swings to the left,
Zigzag stitch along the worn edges, catching the fabri
the
fabric on the right (Fig. 52).
of
edge
the
over
pass
just
to
le
and allowing the need
PATCHING
worn area which has been
Machine bastes patch into place by placing fabric under hole or
ng
around edge of hole.
casti
over
by
place
into
patch
h
the
cut away. Then zigzag stitc
APPLIQUE
e of the design outlining
Fig. 51-Baste design to fabric and zigzag stitch following the shap
ming
it away after stitching
trim
r
by
edge
oute
the
rial
on
ss
mate
it entirely and remove exce
nd
the
design outlining it
h
arou
stitc
z
gzag
a
cast
c
and
over
fabri
n
to
Fig. 53-Baste desig
use the machine
to
inue
cont
as
you
rent
me
appa
beco
will
r
uses
othe
s
of
dred
entirely. Hun
ts set speed control
Try the multiple zigzag stitch for these operations. Also, for best resul
.
slower when sewing around contours and faster for straight lines
C
b..
.X
‘
frFig. 51
Fig. 52
Fig. 53
35
HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES
NARROW HEMMER
With needle at its highest position replace regular presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig.
54) being sure to tighten it securely in place. Set pattern selector lever at manual position,
needle positioning control center, zigzag stitch width control at off for straight stitched
hem or at number 3 for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to suit.
For a plain narrow hem make a 1.8 inch double fold for about two inches along edge of
fabric. Hold each end of the two inch fold and slip underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into
the scroll of HEMMER draw fabric forward to end and fasten with needle point. Lower
presser bar lifter. Gently pull end of thread as you start stitching (Fig. 55 for straight
stitched hem Fig. 56 for zigzag stitched hem).
Guide material slightly to left and it will take a double turn through scroll. The narrow hem
provides an excellent finish for edges of ruffles or any other dainty work.
LACE TRIMMED HEM
To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in the slot next to needle
(Fig. 58).
Sew hem as above, guiding lace under needle and hem into scroll. Rick-rack
may be used in the same way
36
LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING
Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge on right hand side of fabric,
insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 59); let hem
roll over and sew in lace. When the stitching is completed,
the hem is pressed to the wrong side.
FRENCH SEAM
Place material with right sides facing each other and the top
piece of material 1/8 inch from right hand edge of lower piece.
Insert in hemmer scroll allowing hem to roll over and sew in
Fig 57
top fabric making French seam. For cording effect, use zigzag
stitch wide enough to catch both edges of the narrow rolled
hem and sew with satin stitch. This can be used for covering chairs and so forth. (Fig. 60).
HEMMING ACROSS A SEAM
To hem across a seam, cut the seam folds at an angle so they will lead into the hemmer
gradually. Press seam open. Stitch across the seam at the extreme edge to hold it together
and for added firmness, It may be necessary to pull the material slightly when hemming
over the seam. (Fig. 57).
:1
‘t
Fig. 58
37
QUILTING GUIDE(Fig. 61)
Use this guide for making parallel rows of straight or decorative stitching. Attach standard
presser foot. Slip U-shaped holder on guide under presser foot thumb screw from the back
and tighten screw (Fig. 65). Adjust the curved bar for the distance desired between rows
of stitches and set so it presses slightly on the fabric. By letting the guide ride on the
previous stitching line, successive rows will be an equal distance apart (Fig. 65).
SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE (Fig. 62)
Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams and even rows of top stitching along
edge of fabric. (Fig. 64). Fasten Gauge (Fig. 62) with accompanying screw (Fig. 63) in
threaded hole in bed of machine. Adjust to desired width.
Fig. 61
FIg. 62
FIg. 64
Fig. 63
Fig. 65
_—
38
THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
This attachment is used to make and insert covered cording, and to sew in zippers. Loosen
thumb screw to slide foot o either right or left of needle.(Fig. 66).
CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric over cord. Loosen thumb screw and set foot so needle
is centered in needle hole. Machine bastes cord in place Fig. 67.
To sew covered cord to material, reset adjustable foot so needle stitches closer to cord,
and on edge of base fabric.
SEWING IN A ZIPPER
Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters center of needle hole. Guide metal of
zipper along edge of foot (Fig. 68>. Stitching should be close to zipper to allow easy opening
and closing. Adjust to sew from either right or left side, whichever is more convenient.
L
k
39
ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT
Fig. 69
Fig 70
Fig. 71
40
CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE (See Figs. 72-Aand-8)
The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint.
This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of the
lint will safeguard the performance. To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows:
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position.
its hinges.
Tilt head back on
2. Remove bobbin case (A’).
3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward and remove the shuttle race cover
(C) and shuttle body (D).
4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle and shuttle race cover by removing all threads, lint,
etc.
5 Apply
a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle.
zzc
C
1
FIg. 72 .A
Fig.
72—s
—
41
When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follow
s to replace the shuttle assembly:
1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highes
t position.
2. Place shuttle body, (D), against shuttle driver and adjust
into position.
3. Replace shuttle race cover, (C), fitting pin at lower
edge into notch, and lock into
position with shuttle race cover clamps, (8), making certain
the clamps have been snapped
securely into position.
4. Put bobbin into bobbin case.
4
5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle fitting tongue into
notch E of race cover.
CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR MACHINE
HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE
Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep
it operating smoothly.
How often depends on the
amount of sewing you do.
Before oiling the upper part of the sewing unit at
points indicated by arrows (Fig. 73) turn hand
wheel toward you until the take-up lever is at its
lowest point.
£
Fig. 73
42
To oil mechanism under bed of machine, tip the head back on its hinges and oil all moving
parts indicated by arrows. (Fig. 75).
Fig. 75
HOW TO REPLACE THE LIGHT BULB
b.
Open Face (Fig. 74) unscrew bulb and insert new
one.
For long life and correct size, be sure it is a
genuine White part.
a
4
43
ACCESSORIES
726’%31
-
©
..
000
©
cyi
©
©
8I
Fig. 76
Plastic Oiler (sealed and filled).
Package of Needles (5 Straight, 1 Twin).
© Large Screw Driver.
Small Screw Driver.
Quilter Guide.
© Cloth Guide.
Button Sewing Foot.
© Buttonhole Foot.
®
®
©
©
3
©
Presser Foot for Straight Sewing.
Narrow Hemmer.
Cording & Zipper Foot.
Thumb Screw.
Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins).
Bobbins (3).
Needle Plate for Straight Sewing.
44
TROUBLE CHART
Trouble
Probable Cause
Correction
1. With take-up lever in highest position, tilt
head back on hinges and remove bobbin
case.
BOBBIN BOBBIN NOTCH
RACE
iflI
If Machine
Binds
Thread or lint in
race way
LATCH
RACE COVER
HOOK
CLAMPS
2. Turn clamps outward and remove race
cover.
3. Remove hook.
4. Clean thread and lint from all parts, in
cluding race.
5. Run a drop of oil along rim of shuttle.
6. Replace shuttle, then race cover. Snap
clamps into place.
7. Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and
replace, fitting tongue into notch of race
cover.
—
•
I
45
Trouble
Skipping
stitches
Irregular
stitches
Uneven
stitches
1
Correction
Probable Cause
Bent needle
Discard and replace.
Needle placed
incorrectly in clamp
See instruction page No; 10.
Too fine a needle for
thread being used
See needle and thread chart, page No. 5.
Upper thread tension
too loose
Tighten upper tension.
Improper threading
See threading instruction, page Nos. 8 and 9.
Bobbin not wound
evenly
Rewind bobbin.
Pulling or holding
material
Avoid pulling or holding material, just
guide it.
Not enough tension on
upper thread
Increase tension.
Poor quality thread
Try different thread.
Needle too fine for
thread being used
See needle and thread chart, page No. 5.
J
I
I
46
Trouble
Upper
thread
breaking
Material
puckering
Correction
Probable Cause
Improperly threaded
Refer to threading instructions see page No.
S and rethread machine.
Too much tension
Loosen tension on upper thread by turning
thread tension knob to lower number.
Starting with take up
in incorrect positon
Always start sewing with take up lever in
highest position.
Improper setting of
needle
Refer to needle setting instructions see
page No. 10.
Eye of needle too
sharp
Try a new needle.
Bent or blunt needle
Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace
with new.
Tension too tight
See tensions adjustment page No. 14.
Dull needle
Change needle.
Stitch length too long
Reduce stitch length.
I
I
41
Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of accessories
described earlier in this book.
The following pages illustrate additional timesaving attachments that
have been designed specifically for your machine. They are available
at modest cost from your dealer.
If your dealer cannot supply you with
these items, ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you
will be assured of receiving the genuine part designed for best per
formance with your machine.
If a sewing machine dealer is not available mail your inquiry directly
to:
WHITE SEWING MACHINE COMPANY
11750 BEREA ROAD
CLEVELAND, OHIO 44111
In Canada:
WHITE CONSOLIDATED INDUSTRIES, LTD.
1470 BIRCHMOUNT ROAD
SCAR BOROUGH 733, ONTARIO
48
SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR
YOUR MACHINE
Fig. 71.
+-PART
1403
PART X 4990
Ruffler
PART
82528
Darning Spring
PART
74159
Attachment Foot
PART p76553
PART
76554
Edgestitcher
PART% 76552
3’PART% 76551
PART7655Q
Hemmers
Needle position control must be in the left
position when using these attachments.
a
4
49
ATTACHMENT FOOT
H
V
In order to attach the binder, edgestitcher and the hem
mers, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and
replace it with the attachment foot (Fig. 78). Mount
binder, edgestitcher or hemmers, sliding the attachment
to the left as far as possible and tighten screw.
The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to or as
far away from the edge as desired. Just move the attachment to the correct position before tightening the
mounting screw.
EDGESTITCHER
The edgestitcher is used in mak
ing dainty lace insertions, edgings
and pipings. The slots in the edge
sticher serve as guides in sewing
together various pieces of material.
If you want to sew lace,
lace and embroidery, or lace and
tucked strips together, place the
Fig. 79
Fig. 80
piece of material that will be on
top in slot 1 (Fig. 80) and the lower fabric in slot 4. For instance, if you are sewing lace
edging to a finished edge of fabric place the fabric in slot 1 and the lace in slot 4 (Fig. 79).
Be sure to draw the lace and material under the needle and back of the edgestitcher so
that the feed will carry it backward as you stitch. Hold the fabric in the left hand and the
lace in the right, being sure fabric overlaps the lace slightly.
50
Rick Rack can be sewn to the edge of the material in the same manner.
To trim with wide piping, place the fabric in slot 4, and the fold of the piping
to the left
in slot 3, for a narrow piping place fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge
of the piping to
the right in slot 3. Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a French seam.
See Fig. 81, 82, 83 and 84 for suggestions on how to use the edgestitcher.
There are
hundreds of other uses.
Fig. 81
a
Fig.
82
Fig. 83
Fig. 84
S
51
BINDER
This attachment folds bias binding and applies it
to the edge of material in one operation. Slots on
scroll of the binder are for corresponding widths of
commercial folded bias binding. The open mouth of
binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut
15/16 inch wide.
FOLDED BINDING (Fig 87)
Cut a point on folded binding, insert in appropriate
slot Draw through slot and under binder with strong
pin
Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge
Adjust sliding binder to right or left
f
Fig. 85
Fig. 86
TWO-TONE BINDING (Fig 87)
Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in
one operation
When two are used always skip one
size between widths inserting each in correct size
slot.
Fig. 87
HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 88)
Cut 15,’16 inch bias binding fold in half for a couple
of inches. Cut binding diagonally toward end, al
most to fold
Slip fold into center of binder
Draw
back until cut opens and binding encircles open end
of scroll. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge.
Adjust if necessary. See Figs. 85 and 86 for sug
gestions on how to use the binder. There are hun
dreds of other uses.
Fig. 88
52
THE SET OF HEMMERS
Before attaching any of the hemmers,
be sure bobbin
thread is pulled up. Then, with hemme
r in place, hold
top thread loosely and turn hand wheel
one full turn
toward you, making a ‘oop under hemmer.
Grasp bob
bin thread with both hands and slip horizo
ntally under
hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread
will catch loop
and carry upper thread to back of hemme
r.
Fold material to suit for two inches along
edge, hold at
each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and
up over spoon
(Fig. 89). Fold hem in material back of hemme
r. Draw
forward to end of hem and fasten with point
of needle.
Pull on threads gently as you start stitchin
g.
háI i___i
Fig. 89
HEMMER SET
You can make a hem 1,4”, 3/8”, 5/8”,
or 7/8”, in width, depending upon which
hemmer
you use. For a few of the many uses see
Figs. 90, 91, 92, 93, 94 and 95.
a
4%
I
53
Fig. 91
Fig. 90
I
Fig 92
Fig. 93
‘4’
Fig. 95
54
RUFFLER
The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating. Ruffling can also
be
done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time. This highly versatile attachment,
despite its wide range of use, is simple to use. Use the ruffler for making aprons, curtains,
pleating a skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of a dress, etc.
b.
.
b.
—
Fig. 96-A
Fig. 97-A
Fig. 90-A
55
Fig. 99
Fig. 100
Fig. 103
Fig. 101
Fig. 102
ci
I
56
1
I
MORE ATTRACTIVE DESIGNS JUST BY CHANGING CAM
These two extra cams are available from your dealer.
Cam change is very simple.
Set stitch length control (9. Fig. 1) at “0” position.
Set pattern selector lever (15, Fig. 1) at straight stitch positon.
Open cam cover door (30, Fig. 2).
Push cam release button (1, Fig. 105), and cam (2 Fig. 105) will come out for about 14”.
Pull out cam, and put new cam into cam chamber, being sure notch in cam is engaged
with drive pin.
6. Cam cover door should close easily. If not, the cam is in the incorrect position. Turn
cam until it engages drive pin.
7. Change decorative pattern plate (16, Fig. 1,.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
C
C
C
I
XDOO(
I
I
1
I
—
1),
,
—1
NV
I
-y.
Fig. 104
Fig. 105
aaaa
‘
‘ “
1
‘•
‘
(
en
‘
AESIbtEiEShi n naan
-
58
INSTALLING SEWING HEAD IN CABINET
1. Back off both head hinge set screws until head
hinge hole is clear
2. Tilt head hinge tongues up and back as far as
they will go.
3. Carefully slip head onto head hinges
making
sure tongues are inserted as far as they can go into
head hinge holes.
-
4. Allow the head to rest in its tiltedback position.
5. Tighten both
driver.
set screws securely with screw
6. Plug electrical leads into sockets located inside
cabinet. Cord identified with “motor” tag must
be plugged into socket marked “motor”. Untagged
card goes to “light” socket.
C
C
PART 88814
S.J.H. 471
SINCE 1876
machb,es
TO OBTAIN THE BEST PERFORMANCE FROM
YOUR MACHINE BE SURE THE CABINET,
CARRYING CASE OR OTHER ITEMS USED
WITH YOUR MACHINE ARE GENUINE WHITE
PRODUCTS.
Printed in Japan
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