assembly and operation manual - You have reached ftp.hobbico.com

®
™
™
ASSEMBLY AND OPERATION MANUAL
www.duratrax.com
www.duratrax.com
www.warheadmt.com
www.warheadmt.com
YOU WILL
NEED
SPARE GLOW PLUGS
DTXG3005
AFTER RUN OIL
HCAP3000
FUEL FILLER BOTTLE
DTXP0150
20% O’DONNELL FUEL
DTXP0720
WRENCH
DTXR1170
GLOW STARTER
DTXP3000
PHILLIPS HEAD SCREWDRIVER
DTXR0124
ENGINE TUNING SCREWDRIVER
DTXR0185
ADDITIONAL
AIR FILTER OIL
DTXC2465
ALKALINE
BATTERIES
PLIERS
DTXR0300
2
THINGS TO
KNOW
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
When the safety precautions are followed, the
Warhead will provide years of enjoyment. Use
care and good sense at all times when
operating this radio controlled monster truck.
Failure to use this vehicle in a safe, sensible
manner can result in injury or damage to
property. You and you alone must insure that
the instructions are carefully followed and all
safety precautions are obeyed.
•
SPECIFICATION AND
DESCRIPTION CHANGES
STRESS-TECH™™ PARTS
GUARANTEE
All pictures, descriptions and specifications
found in this instruction manual are subject
to change without notice. DuraTrax maintains
no responsibility for inadvertent errors in this
manual. Visit www.duratrax.com for the latest
updates and information for your model.
We have engineered the Warhead MT to take
the rough and tumble abuse that makes R/C
trucks fun. We are so confident of the quality
and durability of the Stress-Tech plastic parts
that we will replace any Stress-Tech plastic
part you break during the first 12 months you
own the truck. Just send in the part to us and
we will send you a FREE replacement. Please
see the Warhead parts list for the items
covered under the Stress-Tech guarantee.
WARRANTY
•
Do not operate the Warhead near people.
Spectators should be behind the driver or
at a safe distance away from the vehicle.
•
Water can cause the electronics to short
out and can cause permanent damage.
•
Always turn on the transmitter before
turning on the receiver.
•
Fully extend the transmitter antenna
before operating your vehicle.
•
Before turning on your radio system,
check to make sure that no one else is
running on the same frequency.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
The engine and exhaust produce quite a
bit of noise. Do not run this vehicle when
or where it can disturb others.
The engine and exhaust can become
very hot. Avoid touching any of these
parts during use and until they have
cooled down.
Model engine fuel is poisonous. Make
sure you read and follow all of the
precautions on the fuel container. Keep
fuel out of the reach of children.
Model engine fuel is flammable and when
ignited has a flame that is difficult to see.
Avoid sparks, flames, smoking, or any
other ignition source when fuel is near.
The engine emits harmful fumes just
like real vehicles. Do not operate this
model indoors.
Avoid running the truck in cold weather.
The plastic and metal parts can become
brittle at low temperatures. In addition,
grease and oil become thick, causing
premature wear and poor performance.
•
DuraTrax® guarantees this kit to be free
from defects in both material and
workmanship at the date of purchase.
DuraTrax will warranty this kit for 90 days
after the purchase date. DuraTrax will
repair or replace, at no charge, the
incorrectly made part.
Make sure you save the receipt or invoice
you were given when you bought your
model! It is your proof of purchase and
we must see it before we can honor the
warranty. Further, DuraTrax reserves the
right to change or modify this warranty
without notice.
In that DuraTrax has no control over the
final user assembly or material used for
final user assembly, no liability shall be
assumed nor accepted for any damage
resulting from the use by the user of the
final user-assembled product. By the act of
using the user-assembled product, the
user accepts all resulting liability.
To return your Warhead for repairs covered
under warranty you should send your truck to:
To receive your free replacement part
please send the following to the Hobby
Services address listed under the warranty
on the left.
❏ 1. The broken part must be included.
❏ 2. The part number and description of
the broken part.
❏ 3. Copy of your dated invoice or
purchase receipt.
❏ 4. Your name, phone number and
shipping address.
REPAIR SERVICE
Repair service is available anytime.
•
After the 90 day warranty, you can still
have your Warhead repaired for a small
charge by the experts at DuraTrax’s
authorized repair facility, Hobby Services.
•
To speed up the repair process, please
follow the instructions listed below.
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Drive Suite 1
Champaign, Illinois 61822
Attn: Service Department
Phone: (217) 398-0007 9:00 am-5:00 pm
Central Time M-F
E-mail: hobbyservices@hobbico.com
www.hobbyservices.com
❏ 1. Under most circumstances return the
ENTIRE vehicle. The exception would
be sending in a Stress-Tech part. See
the instruction under the StressTech Guarantee.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the
liability associated with the use of this
product, the buyer is advised to return
this kit immediately in new and unused
condition to the place of purchase.
❏ 3. Send written instructions which include: a
list of all items returned, a THOROUGH
explanation of the problem, the service
needed and your phone number during
the day. If you expect the repair to be
covered under warranty, be sure to
include a proof of date of purchase (your
store receipt or purchase invoice).
3
❏ 2. Make sure the transmitter is turned off,
all of the batteries are removed and
the fuel tank is completely empty.
FINISHING
THE WARHEAD
TRANSMITTER PREPARATION
• Install eight “AA” batteries into transmitter.
• Insert the antenna into the top of the transmitter and tighten.
• Turn the transmitter on and check the battery light. If the red light glows
steady, turn off the transmitter. If the red light blinks, the batteries are low
and should be replaced.
RECEIVER BATTERY INSTALLATION
• Remove the receiver battery holder.
• Install (4) “AA” batteries.
• Reinstall the receiver battery holder and lid.
4
RECEIVER ANTENNA INSTALLATION
• Uncoil and straighten the antenna wire.
• Route the receiver antenna wire through
the antenna tube.
• Install the tube into the antenna mount.
X
DO NOT CUT
ANTENNA WIRE!
OIL THE AIR FILTER
• Remove the air filter top and foam element.
• Apply both tubes of air filter oil onto the foam element, squeezing the element until it is completely
coated with the oil. TIP! Placing the element in a plastic bag will help keep your hands clean.
• Remove any excess oil with a paper towel.
• Reinstall, making sure the filter is properly seated on the base.
5
RADIO SYSTEM CHECK
!
CHECK THE RADIO SYSTEM
FOR PROPER FUNCTION
BEFORE EACH RUN
• Turn the transmitter on, then turn the receiver on.
• Turn the transmitter wheel to the right—the front wheels should turn to the right. If not, move the steering servo reverse switch.
• When running, adjust the steering trim so the truck track straight.
• Pull the throttle trigger to make sure the carburetor opens fully and the throttle linkage functions properly without binding.
• Adjust the throttle trim so the carb closes completely at idle.
• Push the trigger and roll the truck to make sure the brakes are applied.
• To shift the Warhead from forward to reverse, flip the toggle switch to the opposite position.
• IMPORTANT! Before shifting from forward to reverse or reverse to forward, bring the truck to a complete stop.
BODY INSTALLATION
• Decal the body to your liking.
Use the photos on the box as
a reference.
• Install the body onto the
chassis using four body clips.
• TIP! Cut out the rear window for easy access to the rollbar/handle.
• TIP! Adjust your body mounts high to achieve that “monster” look.
6
R UNNING THE
ENGINE
ENGINE
TUNING GUIDE
HIGH-SPEED NEEDLE
The “high-speed” needle is
sticking up from the carburetor.
This controls the fuel to air
mixture of the carburetor. The
needle is pre-set for break-in
from the factory at 4 turns out
from fully closed. Once the
engine is broken-in, the highspeed needle would typically
run from 3-1/2 to 3-3/4 turns out
from closed, depending on the
weather, humidity and altitude
above sea level. To richen the mixture turn the needle
counterclockwise. To lean it, turn the needle clockwise.
Before running the engine, read the manual and watch the
assembly and engine tuning video that came with this kit.
FUELING THE WARHEAD
IMPORTANT! The Warhead features a fuel tank that holds
over 200cc of fuel! This will provide long runs between fill
ups. The drawback to this large size is that the engine may
flood due to the increased fuel pressure through the fuel
lines (siphon effect). This makes starting very difficult when
the tank is completely full. When getting ready to start the
engine, ONLY fill the Warhead tank to the “starting fuel level”
line (1/2-way). Once the engine is warmed up and running,
fill the tank to the top.
STARTING THE ENGINE
IMPORTANT! Your radio system must ALWAYS be turned
on and the transmitter antenna fully extended when running
the engine!
1. Fill the tank to the “starting fuel level” line (half-full).
2. Prime the engine - while the engine is cool you can place
your finger over the tuned pipe’s exhaust hole and pull the
recoil gently two times.
3. Attach the glow starter to the glow plug.
4. With the throttle at idle, start the engine by pulling the
recoil using short, quick pulls. DO NOT pull the recoil
starter’s string to the end. You only need 10 to 12 inches
of pull to start the engine with the throttle at idle.
LOW-SPEED NEEDLE
The “low-speed” needle is
located on the side of the
carburetor. It controls the
fuel mixture at low throttle
settings/idle and is preset
from the factory at 14-1/2
turns from fully closed while
holding the carburetor
open. There is a simple way
of adjusting the low-speed
needle correctly called the
“pinch test.” With the engine at idle, pinch the fuel line and
listen to how the engine speeds up or slows down. If the
engine increases its speed for about 2 or 3 seconds and then
loses speed, the needle is set correctly. If the engine loses
RPM quickly, it is set too lean and the low-speed needle
needs to be opened (counterclockwise) to richen the
mixture. Pinch again to check the mixture. If the engine takes
longer than 4 seconds to slow down, lean (clockwise) the
low-speed needle and then pinch again to check the mixture.
IDLE STOP SCREW
The “idle stop” screw is
located on the backside of
the carburetor.This increases
or decreases the idle speed
without changing the fuel
mixture. The barrel should be
approximately 1mm from
fully closed.
Sometimes it is helpful to start the engine at around half
throttle. When the engine starts, immediately return the
throttle to idle. If this is not done the engine can over-rev and
cause engine damage.
FIXING A FLOODED ENGINE
If the engine is difficult to turn over with the recoil starter,
especially if it is brand new, loosen the glow plug a half turn
before starting the engine. This allows some compression to
escape, but the engine will still start. Make sure you tighten
the glow plug after the engine starts. If the recoil starter is still
difficult to pull, the engine is flooded - there is too much fuel
inside the engine. Remove the glow plug, then turn the truck
upside down and pull the recoil 5 or 6 times. This will clear the
engine of fuel, and you will notice the recoil pulls easier.
Replace the glow plug and repeat the starting procedure.
BARREL 1mm
FROM FULLY
CLOSED
STOPPING THE ENGINE
Pinch the fuel line that runs to the carburetor. Pinching this line
will restrict the fuel flow and the engine will quit within a few
seconds. Never place your finger over the exhaust to stop
the engine. This could result in serious burns on your
finger. It also causes fuel to back up in the engine, making
it harder to start the next time you run your Warhead.
IDLE STOP SCREW
IMPORTANT! To insure long life and good performance from
your engine, you MUST break-in the engine. The break-in
period is critical for long life of the internal parts of the
engine. This should be done over the first 5 tanks of fuel.
7
TANK 5
Lean the high-speed needle another 1/12 turn from “tank 4”
setting. Run the truck for the complete tank and then let cool.
After the fifth tank, the engine is now ready to be tuned
for best performance.
BREAK
IN
PR OCEDURE
SOME THINGS TO REMEMBER DURING BREAK-IN
1. Run with the body off. This will keep the engine cooler.
2. Keep the air cleaner on at ALL times
3. Run on a smooth, hard surface. An empty parking lot
is perfect.
4. Use the same fuel that you will use for normal running.
5. Resist the urge to accelerate and decelerate quickly.
6. Break-in puts stress on the glow plug and can burn it out.
Make sure you have an extra plug or two on hand.
7. Do NOT overheat the engine (see page 9).You can check the
head temperature by using one of the temperature gauges
that are readily available (DuraTrax™ Flashpoint, DTXP3100).
TUNING TIPS
After break-in, run the truck where you plan to do most of your
driving (grass, street, track, etc). Tune the high speed needle
so the engine makes good power without overheating. Using
a temperature gauge, tune the engine so that it will
consistently stay under 270° F (132° C). Keep in mind, RC
engines usually take a minute or two to warm up. It is common
not to reach full power right away. Never tune a cold engine!
If needed, tune the low speed needle so that the truck idles
and accelerates smoothly and consistently. Note: If you lean
the low speed needle, you may need to richen the high
speed needle. The idle stop screw should be adjusted so
that the wheels do not turn when you lift the truck.
TANK 1
Your first tank of fuel should be running the Warhead at a
very rich needle valve setting. This allows the fuel to carry
as much oil as possible into the engine to properly lubricate
the internal parts during the break-in.
1. Open the high speed needle valve 4 turns from fully
closed (counterclockwise). This is factory set already, but
check it to make sure. When closing the high-speed
needle, close until you feel some resistance. DO NOT
overtighten or you will damage the engine.
2. Fill the tank to the “starting fuel level” line (half-full).
3. Start the engine. Once warm (about 1 minute, fill the tank
to full.
4. Run the truck on a smooth surface with the body off.
5. Run back and forth at medium speeds, slowly accelerating
and decelerating the truck. NOTE: It is normal for the two
speed not to shift (see page 10).
6. Run the truck until the tank is almost out of fuel. Do not allow
the tank to run out of fuel. This leans out the engine and can
cause overheating.
7. Stop the engine and allow it to cool. This normally takes
around 10-15 minutes.
ENGINE CARE
Never store your Warhead with fuel in the tank. We
recommend that after the final run of the day, you empty the
fuel tank and then run the engine at idle until all the fuel is out
of the fuel lines and engine. Remove the air filter and glow
plug. Then place two drops of Hobbico® After Run Engine Oil
(HCAP3000) in the carburetor and two into the cylinder to help
prevent corrosion. Pull the recoil a few times to circulate the oil.
10 WAYS TO ENSURE LONG LIFE FROM YOUR ENGINE
1. Keep your engine and air filter clean. Dirt will act as
insulation on an engine. It will not be able to shed heat as
easily. Clean and re-oil the element often.
2. Do not over-lean your engine.
3. Do not run your engine with little or no load. Don’t throttle
up the engine to full throttle when the wheels are not in
contact with the ground.
4. Do not overheat the engine (see page 9).
5. Do not use a fuel with a low oil content. Make sure you
use a model car fuel from a reputable manufacturer, such
as O’Donnell Fuels.
6. Avoid using old fuels in the engine.
TIP! Think of a clock face: 1/12 turn = one hour increment.
7. Do not use a fuel with a nitromethane (often called nitro)
content over 20%.
8. Do not scratch the piston or cylinder sleeve. Avoid
jamming something into the exhaust port when removing
or re-installing the clutch or flywheel. Use a special tool
called the Ultimate Flywheel Wrench (DTXR1105) to
keep the crankshaft from moving.
9. Do not use silicone sealer on the engine joints. Silicone
sealer contains acetic acid, which is corrosive if it gets
inside your engine.
10. Do not allow any water to get inside the engine.This sounds
easy, but temperature changes can cause condensation
inside the engine. This is a good reason to use an after-run
oil. Store your engine inside the house, not in a garage or
shed where there will be temperature extremes.
TANK 2
Lean the high-speed needle 1/12
turn (one hour) from “tank 1”
setting. Run the truck for the
complete tank and then let cool.
TANK 3
Lean the high-speed needle another 1/12 turn from “tank 2”
setting. Run the truck for the complete tank and then let cool.
TANK 4
Lean the high-speed needle another 1/12 turn from “tank 3”
setting. Run the truck for the complete tank and then let cool.
You should notice the engine running much better at this point.
8
To keep dirt out of the
engine, we recommend
that you use an inline fuel
filter (Clean Flow Fuel
Filter, DTXC2552) on the
fuel line running from the fuel tank to the carburetor. Dirt can
get caught in the needle seat and cause an inconsistent
running engine. If you suspect that some dirt has lodged
itself in the carburetor, remove the needles and clean the
carburetor with denatured alcohol or fuel. It can help to use
compressed air to blow out the fuel passages as well.
GENERAL
INFORMATION
GLOW PLUG
The glow plug is an item that will wear
out and need replacement from time
to time. It is a good idea to remove the
glow plug before your first run,
connect the plug to the glow starter and see how well it glows.
You should see a bright orange glow from the filament. If a coil
or two will not glow or the plug will not glow at all, replace the
plug. If the engine quits when you remove the glow starter, the
plug might need to be changed, although this may be
because you are running too rich and need to lean your highspeed needle. Look at the glow plug when you are running
the engine. If you see some bubbles coming from around the
plug, replace the glow plug. The only real way to test a glow
plug is to replace it. Make sure you have a spare plug or two
on hand every time that you run the Warhead. We
recommend the DuraTrax Gold Plug (DTXG3005).
AIR FILTER
Dirt can get into your carburetor and engine through the air
filter. Ensure that your air filter has a good seal to the top
of the carburetor. Periodically wash the air filter foam
element (using dish soap and water) and re-oil the filter with
filter oil (DTXC2465). Any air filter that has a torn element or
a bad seal should be replaced immediately.
OVERHEATING
One of the worst things you can do to your engine is
overheat it. The oils that lubricate the engine are carried in
the fuel. If your engine is set too lean, there will not be
enough oil in the engine to lubricate the internal parts. This
will cause premature wear in the engine and cause damage.
The easiest way of checking the temperature of the cylinder
head is by using one of the available temperature gauges
(we recommend the DuraTrax Flashpoint Temperature
Gauge, DTXP3100). This will give you a direct reading of the
cylinder head temperature. Hold the temperature gauge
directly on the cylinder head so the gauge is pointed directly
at the glow plug. Do not let the head temperature exceed
270° Fahrenheit (132° Celsius).
FUEL
Use fuels that are specially formulated for car and truck
engines like O’Donnell 20% RTR Fuel (DTXP0720).
Fuel can go bad. The main ingredient in
model fuel is methanol, which is basically
alcohol. Alcohol will absorb water out of the
air, so keep your fuel jug capped at all times.
Store your fuel out of the sunlight and in a
cool place, off the ground away from
temperature extremes. Bad fuel is one of the
most difficult problems to diagnose in
engines. If you have tried everything you can
think of to remedy an engine that is not
running correctly, try using some fresh fuel.
FUEL SYSTEM
The fuel line is susceptible to pinhole leaks. You usually
cannot see the hole in the fuel line, but if you see air bubbles
in the line going to the carburetor, replace the fuel line.
Another symptom of a leak in the fuel line is a surging engine.
A properly tuned engine will surge when the air bubbles hit
the carburetor. It is basically leaning out the mixture.
STARTER BOX
The Warhead is designed to fit onto standard 1/8-scale
starter boxes. The DuraTrax Universal II (DTXP5600) starter
box is recommended.
9
MAINTENANCE
TUNING
TIPS
GUIDE
BEFORE EACH RUN
1. IMPORTANT: Check to make sure
that all screws are tight. Pay
particular attention to the screw pins
in the drive cups. Always use
threadlock (DTXR2010) on screws
going into metal.
When tuning the Warhead make sure that you have equal
lengths from one side to the other on the shocks, camber
rods and steering rods. Also, make sure to have the shock
pre-load adjusters at the same setting from left to right. They
do not have to be the same front to rear.
2-SPEED ADJUSTMENT
• Once the engine is fully broken-in, the truck should shift
within 30-40 feet.
2. Before running always check the condition of your radio
system batteries and replace/recharge if necessary.
• There are a few things to remember when adjusting the
two speed: During break-in the truck may not shift into
second gear. This is normal. DO NOT adjust the two speed
until after the engine is fully broken-in. Also, do not adjust
the engine needles on the engine so the two speed shifts.
Adjust the engine to its best tune first, and then adjust the
two speed. Always make small adjustments.
3. Check to make sure that all of the moving parts of the
Warhead move freely and do not bind.
4. Check the fuel tank and fuel lines for leaks.
5. Before starting the engine, turn on the radio and make
sure the servos move easily and in the proper direction.
6. Inspect the air filter for a torn or damaged element. Also look
for dirt in the air cleaner element and wash it if necessary.
7. Check for broken or damaged parts. Replace any broken
or damaged parts before running the Warhead. Running
of the Warhead with broken or damaged parts could
result in damage to other parts.
8. Check to make sure that all wires are properly connected.
AFTER EACH RUN
1. Clean any large globs of dirt or debris from the chassis
and moving parts.
2. Drain the fuel tank of any leftover fuel. DO NOT return the
fuel to your fuel jug.
3. Check for any broken or damaged parts. This way parts
may be replaced before the next run.
4. Put some after-run oil in the carburetor and cylinder and
turn the flywheel several times to work the oil into the
engine. This will protect the engine from rusting, especially
when stored for a long period of time.
• There are two set screws, the adjustment set screw is the
one that is at an angle. The other set screw is the one that
holds the shift hub to the reverser input shaft and is a
different size.
• To locate the adjustment screw, remove the rubber plug
and look into the access hole. Rotate the spur gear until
you see the aluminum shift hub. Hold the spur and roll the
truck until the correct (smaller) set screw comes into view.
AFTER EVERY 10 RUNS
1. Check to make sure that the bearings are free of dirt and
debris, and roll smoothly.
2. Check the shocks for oil leakage. If the shocks have
leaked any shock fluid out, you should properly refill the
shocks for best performance.
• Use a 1.5mm hex wrench to adjust the two speed set screw:
3. Make sure the servo saver is free moving and does not bind.
This will help prevent stripping of the servo during running.
To make the Warhead shift later, adjust the set screw
1/8th of a turn clockwise (tighter).
To make the Warhead shift sooner, adjust the set screw
1/8th of a turn counter clockwise (looser).
• Replace the rubber plug to keep dirt out of the transmission.
4. Check for proper gear mesh between the spur and clutch bell.
10
TOE-IN AND TOE-OUT
CAMBER
Toe-in is when the fronts of the tires point towards each
other. Toe-in increases stability during acceleration and high
speed. However, toe-in also decreases steering when
entering a corner. Toe-out will increase steering into corners,
but will decrease the overall stability during acceleration. The
front typically is set-up with 0 to -2 degrees of toe-in. Toe-out
is when the fronts of the tires point away from each other.
Camber refers to the angle at which the tire and wheel ride
in relation to the ground when viewed from the front or rear.
Negative camber is when the wheels lean inward and
positive camber is when the wheels lean outward. Usually
adding a small amount of negative camber (0° to -2°) will
increase traction. However, adding too much camber will
decrease traction. The objective is to keep as much of the
tire as possible in contact with the running surface. Never
put in positive camber. Make sure that both sides are equal.
Use the DuraTrax
Pit Tech™ Camber
Gauge (DTXR1145)
to accurately set up
your Warhead.
Rear toe-in affects the traction of both the front and rear of the
truck. Rear toe-in increases the amount of traction in the rear,
but decreases steering. Decreasing rear toe-in will increase
steering, but will give less rear traction. the Warhead can be
set at 2° or 3° toe-in by repositioning the screws.
ROLL CENTER ADJUSTMENT
SLIPPER ADJUSTMENT
The slipper clutch is designed to help prevent gear damage
during jumping and to control traction when accelerating. To
properly set, turn the nut until tight and then back off by 1/8
turn. Never loosen the adjuster nut more than 1/2 turn from
fully tight. This can cause excessive heating of the slipper
clutch and will melt the spur gear.
Install the inner upper arm in the lower position for high-traction
surfaces and in the upper position for low-traction surfaces.
11
SHOCK OILS AND SHOCK SPRINGS
Many different combinations can be used between the
shock oils and shock springs. Some basic guidelines when
setting up the Warhead are that if the rear end is stiff it will
give the truck more steering and have less rear traction.
Stiffening the front will result in less steering and more rear
traction. Changing the position of the threaded shock preload adjusters results in ride-height change only. It does not
change the spring tension. Optional springs are available to
tune your Warhead.
Thinner shock oil makes the shocks react faster which works
well on rough tracks, but makes the truck less stable and
may cause the truck to bottom out over large jumps. Thicker
shock oil makes the truck smoother over large jumps and in
straights, but less reactive over rough sections. The stock
truck comes with 30 wt. oil.
DIFFERENTIAL OIL/GREASE
The Warhead comes with sealed differentials filled with
medium grease. You can tune the truck by changing the
oil/grease either heavier or lighter.
For loose track conditions, use a lighter oil/grease. For high
traction conditions, use a thicker oil/grease.
ACKERMAN
SHOCK PRELOAD/RIDE HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT
The Warhead shocks have threaded preload adjusters on
them. This means by threading the collars down, you will
change the ride height. By threading the collars up, you
decrease the ride height. Make sure the preload is the same
from one side to the other.
SHOCK POSITION (UP AND DOWN)
Position the shocks up or down to set the general ride
height. For racing, it’s best to have a low ride height. Use the
upper holes holes in the tower and lower holes in the arms
to lower the ride height for racing.
There are two ways to adjust ackerman on the Warhead.
One way is by moving the steering tie rod on the knuckle. If
you use the front hole, you will have more ackerman
resulting in more initial turn in. By positioning the steering tie
rod in the rear hole, you will have less ackerman and a more
consistent feel.
FRONT SHOCK ADJUSTMENT (IN AND OUT)
Moving the tops of the shocks out will increase steering
resulting in quicker reaction. Moving the tops of the shocks
in will result in slower steering reaction, but will be smoother
over bumps. Mounting the bottoms of the shocks in the
inside holes will give more slow speed steering but will take
away some high speed steering.
The other way of adjusting ackerman is on the steering drag
link. By positioning the steering tie rod forward on the drag link,
you get less ackerman resulting in a smooth, consistent feel in
the corners. By positioning the tie rod back, you get more
ackerman resulting in more initial steering in the corners.
REAR SHOCK ADJUSTMENT (IN AND OUT)
Moving the tops of the shocks in will result in more traction
in the corners and will be smoother over the bumps. Moving
the tops of the shocks out will give the truck more steering
and handle large jumps better.
12
MAINTENANCE
GUIDE
DIFFERENTIAL
The following section is provided to help you with maintenance
and repairs to your Warhead. Pay extra attention to the notes and
tips for proper assembly.
Make sure the bearings
are fully seated on the
differential case.
Make sure the bearings
are fully seated on the
differential case.
!
Be sure to use
threadlock on all
screw pins (PP).
Fill the diff case with quality oil.
NOTE: Fill the case until the
bevel gear shafts are covered.
Filling the case higher will cause
oil to spill out when the other
side of the diff is installed.
There are several different viscosities
of oil available, which allow you to tune
your truck’s handling to particular track
conditions. Grease may be substituted
if you don’t have access to diff oil.
For proper gear mesh,
make sure washer 171
is installed.
13
FRONT SUSPENSION
Thread the turnbuckle
into the upper suspension
arms equally. Adjust to
desired camber after
assembly is complete.
Use threadlock
on set screw.
!
Make sure the knuckles
turn without resistance.
14
The knuckle extension (159)
mounts to the bottom of the
knuckle arm (29).
REAR SUSPENSION
Thread the turnbuckle
into the upper suspension
arms equally. Adjust to
desired camber after
assembly is complete.
Use threadlock
on set screw.
The turnbuckle has left- and right-hand
threads. Be sure to note this during
assembly and assemble so the
turnbuckles are oriented the same on
both sides of the truck.
15
CHASSIS ASSEMBLY
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
Position as shown.
The trailing edge is
shaped differently.
16
ENGINE MOUNT
!
USE THREADLOCK
ON ALL SCREWS.
GEAR MESH
Adjust the gear mesh so you
can just feel a little bit of play.
Too tight, and the gears will
wear prematurely. Too loose,
and the gears will strip.
17
SHOCK TOWER & MOUNT
18
SHOCKS
Apply a generous amount of
shock oil to the shock shaft
assembly before installing into
the O-ring assembly.
If the shock shaft is scratched,
it will prematurely wear the shock
shaft O-rings, causing leaks.
Make sure not to thread the shock
shaft ball end (110) too far onto
the shock shaft.
Completely fill the shock body (101)
with shock oil. Slowly work the piston
up and down to remove air bubbles.
Do not push the piston out of the
shock oil. Slowly tighten the shock
cap (97) onto the shock body (101)
to allow the remaining air to escape
through the bleed hole in the cap.
Apply a small amount of shock oil
to the O-rings before installing them
into the shock body, being careful
not to damage the O-ring. Make sure
the O-rings are completely seated in
the shock body.
19
RADIO GEAR
SHIFT SERVO
When adjusting the shift linkage,
make sure the shift lever will move
completely in and out. Roll the wheels
to be sure you have full engagement.
The truck should roll smoothly without
any “clicking” noise.
!
USE THREADLOCK
ON ALL SET SCREWS.
RECEIVER AND BATTERY BOX
The Warhead battery box was designed
to accept the optional 5-cell rechargeable
battery pack (DTXM2030).
20
THROTTLE/BRAKE SERVO
BELLCRANKS/SERVO SAVER
Make sure the bellcrank
tubes (78) key into the radio
box (79) and skid plate (5).
To prevent servo damage,
do not overtighten. If in
doubt, set it loose.
The ends of the steering
drag link (71) should
sweep rearward.
STEERING SERVO
21
22
Grease the
thrust bearing.
Use a generous amount
of thread lock.
Note the direction of the
reverser center section (145).
!
USE THREADLOCK
ON ALL SET SCREWS.
The recessed side of the shift
hub (119) goes on last. Tighten
the set screw (J) through the hole
in the 2nd spur gear housing (120).
Be sure not to overtighten or
tighten the shift point adjustment
set screw (G).
TRANSMISSION
ENGINE TROUBLESHOOTING
The Engine Starts
YES
It should be
ready to go.
Clear the
engine
of fuel.
YES
Is the high
speed needle
setting 3-1/2 to
3-3/4 turns out
from closed
(if the engine
is broken-in)?
Does it run
continuously?
NO
YES Is fuel getting YES
to the engine?
Does the engine
quit when the
glow plug clip
is removed?
YES
Replace the
glow plug.
NO
NO
NO
Make sure the
fuel line is
connected and
check for leaks.
Reset the high
speed needle.
Check that the
pressure line
is connected to
the muffler. The
fuel may be bad.
Try starting the
engine again.
The Engine Does Not Start
IMPORTANT!
The fuel tank should
only be half-full or
less when starting.
Does the engine
NO turn over easily NO
Does the engine
turn over easily?
with the glow
plug removed?
YES
Replace the fuel
line and flush out
the fuel tank.
NO Is foreign matter
clogging the fuel
tank or fuel line?
NO
Check that nothing
is caught in the
engine. Check that
the pull starter
operates smoothly.
YES
The engine may
be flooded. Clear
the engine of fuel.
Is fuel in the
fuel line?
YES
YES
Is the glow
plug red hot?
Remove the
obstruction
from the fuel
tank or fuel line.
NO
YES
Is the battery for
the glow starter
charged?
YES
Check the high speed
needle setting and
prime the engine.
Try starting the
engine again.
23
Replace the
glow plug.
NO
Charge or
replace the
batteries.
OTHER ITEMS AVAILABLE FROM DURATRAX
5-CELL RECEIVER HUMP PACK
DTXM2030
FLASHPOINT
DTXP3100
ULTIMATE TOOL SET
DTXR0400
FREQUENCY CHECKER
DTXP3110
CLEAN FLOW XL FUEL FILTER
DTXC2552
ULTIMATE FLYWHEEL WRENCH
DTXR1105
FAILSAFE UNIT
DTXM4000
CAMBER GAUGE
DTXR1145
PIT TECH THREADLOCKER
DTXR2010
STREET TRAC TIRES
DTXC5260
UNIVERSAL II STARTER BOX
DTXP5600
Visit our website at www.duratrax.com for more exciting products from DuraTrax!
Copyright © 2005 V1.0
DTXZ1061 for DTXD68**
Download PDF
Similar pages