Janome Combi DX 502 Owner Manual

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|
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Knowing Your Sewing Machine Individual Straight/Zigzag Sewing
Fundamentals of Operation ......................... 3 Triple Strength Stitching... ..... ooo. 20
NamesofParts . ........ i... 4~5 Buttonhole Stitching . .......... LL 21
Standard Accessories . . 20441444 2 414 4 1 Sa 14 ea Le 6 Blind Stitch Hemming ......... ee .eesa0raoorera cn». 22
Connecting the Machine to the Power Supply ............. 7 Zipper Application . . ..... RR 4 4 4 à 23~25
ControllingSewingSpeed. . . .. ..... 1 1 4 0 4 14 a 4e 7 Rolled Hemming ............. ii... 26
Pin Tucking . . .. i ee 27
To Prepare for Straight/Zigzag Sewing Applique . . Le eee à 28
How to Select Straight/Zigzag or Overlock .............. 8 Patch Work 1.222200 2 Last eee aa e ae aa eee 28
How to Turn the Machine . . . . . «oo. 0 8 Blanket Stitch .. 0.014010 44 V4 4 4 4 4 1 4 0 4 4 1 4 4 a 140 29
Removing or Attaching the Presser Foot . . ............... 9 FFiNgiNg +. eK 29
Dropping the Feed DOG + + «vo ooo ee 00000... 9 Fringing with Threads . .............. 0... ... 30
Thread and Needle Chart ............... ere. 10 Gathering ...........eeeeereeererrr es 31
Changing Needles .. 1... 1220200 0 4444 4 4 4 4 4 44 1 1 1 12 40 10 Drawn E 32
Lifting Out the Bobbin ..............—.. a. 11 Fagoting 0000000000040 EEE annees 32
Windingthe Bobbin .............................. 11
Inserting the BOBBIN « . «ov oe eee eee e... 12 To Prepare for Overlock Sewing
Threading the Machine .............. . .... . ........ 13 How to Select Straight/Zigzag or Overlock .............. 33
DrawingUp Bobbin Thread ......................... 14 How to Open or Closethe Chip Guard .................. 33
Balancing Needle Thread Tension ..................... 15 How to Turn the Balance Wheel ...................... 33
Selecting the Stitches . . . .. . . edervereso, 16 Threadand Needle Chart . .......................... 34
Adjusting the Stitch Length . . . .. .................... 16 ChangingNeedles . ............ i... 35
Selecting the Stretch Stitch... ...................... 17 Raising or Lowering the Presser Foot . .................. 35
Using the Reverse Lever .. rea 17 Attaching the Thread Stripping Discand Net .............. 36
Using the Line Gauge .............. 0... 17 Threading the Looper ............ ie... 37~38
Threading the Needle .. еееио., 39-40
Basic Sewing Selecting the Stitch Length ............ . . .ereovr 41
Straight Stitching + 000 e... 4 4 4 4 AL LVL LL LS 18 Adjusting Thread Tension .......................... 42
Zigzag Stitching ............... ao 19 How to Correct the Tension . ............... ......... 43
Overiock Sewing
Application of Overlock Stitching . .................... 44
Test Stitching . «0 vv vie et eee 45
Rolled Hemming, Picot Edging & Narrow Hemming ....... 46~47
Decorative OQveredging . . . . . . . «coo ti ii iii 0 16 48
Decorative Flatiock. .. ..... 2024044 4344484 0 44 a 0 8 0 000 49
Patchwork... 1.222410 1044 6 4444 4 8 4 484 54 0 2 4 14 0 50-51
Pin Tucking.... 220202004444 44406 0 4 4 40 2 4 4 4 4 0000 52-53
SF 1111 09 A A A 54
Sewing Technique for Better Result . . . ................. 55
Care of Your Machine
Cleaning the Bobbin Holder . . . ..................... 56
Taking Out the Bobbin and Bobbin Holder . .............. 56
Cleaning the Hook Raceand Feed Dog . . . ............... 57
Resetting the Bobbin Holder and Needle Plate . .. .......... 57
Cleaning {пе Реей Вод (ОмейосК) ........... 5.5 вок.) 58
Cleaning Waste Chips. .........-eesmemecevrarrerercerxe 58
Replacingthe Bulb .. ........ ci 59
Cleaning Outside of Your Machine . . . . ................. 60
Replacingthe Upper Knife . . ........ ooo к, 60
Oiling the Machine . ...... «iii RK ннон 61
Trouble Shooting
Trouble Shooting for Straight/Zigzag Sewing ........... 62-63
Trouble Shooting for Overlock Sewing ........... eme. 64
Knowing Your Sewing Machine
For Your Safety
1. While in operation, always keep your eye on the needle, and do not touch any moving parts
such as the take-up lever, balance wheel, needle, looper or knife.
2. Always turn off the machine, and unplug from the power supply:
* After using the machine.
When leaving the machine for any period of time.
When attaching or removing parts.
When cleaning or oiling the machine.
*
*
*
3. Do not place any objects on the speed controller.
Before Using the Machine
e Wipe the machine with a clean cloth to remove any dust or oil.
e To replace presser feet or needles follow the guides in the instruction book.
e After setting the machine for sewing, test the stitches on a remnant of the garment.
For Longer Life of the Machine
® Do not expose the machine to the sun for long periods of time.
® Do not store the machine in an area of high humidity nor near a radiator.
® Carry the machine with care to avoid dropping or bumping.
Bobbin winder thread guide
Take-up lever
Top cover
Face plate
Thread tension dial
Thread cutter
Spool pin
Bobbin winder spindle
Extension table
Bobbin winder stopper
Pattern selector dial
Stitch length dial
Reverse lever
Base
Lift lever
Foot holder
Thumb screw
Needle plate
Slide plate
Carrying handie
Presser bar lifter
Drop feed lever
Thread guide
(upper)
Thread guide
(lower)
Needle bar
‘thread guide
Presser foot
Needle thread tension dial
Side cover
Balance wheel
Thread guide
Presser foot lifter
Thread cutter
Stitch length selector knob
Spool pin
Workplate
Spool holder
Power switch
Machine socket Looper thread tension dial
Chip guard (Dust cover plate)
Needle bar | Arm thread guide
SB
(= Needle thread guide
Needle clamp screw
Needle clam
Presser foot screw clamp
Presser bar
Presser foot Looper
Upper knife
Looper thread
Needie plate guide
set screw
Sewing accessories are
conveniently located
under the extension table.
J
< For Free Arm Sewing >
Lift out the extension
table as illustrated.
< For Attaching the Table >
Position the two pins of
the extension table on the
base slit and push down
gently.
Oil
< For Straight/Zigzag >
(G)
Lint brush Set of needies
Blind stitch foot Hemming foot
(D)
Seam ripper
< For Overlock >
Rolled hemming foot
Thread stripping disc
Flatlock guide
plate
Rolled hemming
needie plate
Tweezers
Power supply
Power
supply
controller
Machine
Ne _/
Sewing speed can be varied by the speed
controller. The harder you press on the
controller, the faster the machine runs.
#
By releasing the controller, the machine
stops running.
Power switch Machine * Before using the machine, practice
SOCKE controlling the speed without threading.
0 ~ |
(3) (1) Turn off the power switch, and connect the
machine plug to the machine socket.
(2) Connect the power supply plug to your power
supply.
(3) Turn on the power switch.
Power switch
To Prepare for Straight/Zigzag Sewing
Pattern selector dial
Machine
socket
Push the
balance
wheel in.
Py, = Machine plug
Fa
N J N J
Ne .
/ (1) Turn off the power switch, and (2) Turn the lift lever toward the
To select straight/zigzag stitch or overlock, turn the pattern pull the machine plug out of arrow mark and keep it in the
selector dial while pushing the balance wheel in. the machine socket. position
The sewing light is switched over automatically.
6) в (a) в
E
Ze |
>< 5) Lift lever
/ N 3 =
| D Y zy
< Overlock > < Straight/Zigzag > 1 © Й — Vv _
Set here. > ‘
QQ
lo
J N J
(3) Turn the machine by hand to (4) Return the lift lever to the
face another side for overlock original position as shown
\_ y, sewing. above, and connect the
machine plug to the machine
8 socket.
x
© Lr
Red = Foot holder
bu tton WAR e
CL
_ ÆE 2
| 7 NIE и
(2) Press the red button on the back
of the foot holder,
The presser foot will drop off.
NG
(3) Place the presser foot so that the
pin on the foot lies just under the
groove of the foot holder.
Lower the foot holder to lock the
foot in place.
< Additional Clearance >
y
The presser foot
can be raised
higher for
additional
clearance.
Presser
foot
lifter
N
Drop feed lever
To raise the feed dog, push the lever to the right.
To drop the feed dog, push the lever to the left.
a
Feed dog
is raised.
i
Drop feed lever
Feed dog
is dropped.
« J
Feed dog must always be up for
normal sewing.
4 N
Fabrics Threads Needie Size
Light Crepe de Chine, Voile, Fine Silk 9
weight Lawn, Organdy, Georgette, Fine Cotton or
Tricot Fine Synthetic 41
Fine Cotton Covered
Polyester
Medium Linens, Cotton, Pique, 50 Silk 11
weight Serge, Double Knits, 50 to 80 Cotton or
Percale 50 to 60 14
Synthetic
Cotton Covered
Polyester
Heavy Denim, Tweed, Gabardine, 50 Silk 14
weight Coating, Drapery and 40 to 50 Cotton or
Upholstery Fabric 40 to 50 Synthetic 16
Cotton Covered
Polyester
J
e In general, fine thread and needles are used for sewing thin fabrics, and thicker
threads and needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics. Always test thread and needle
size on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.
e Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
e When sewing very fine fabrics, sew over a piece of paper to prevent yarn distortion.
e When sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics, use a BLUE TIPPED needie.
The BLUE TIPPED needle effectively prevents skipped stitches.
< To Select a Suitable Needle >
10
A number indicating the size of
needle is marked on the stem.
The higher the number, the thicker
the needle.
<=000
N J N J
(1) Turn the balance wheel towards you until the needle is at its highest
position.
(2) Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning its top edge toward you.
Remove the needle from the clamp.
(3) Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with its flat side to the
back.
(4) When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it up as far as it will go and
tighten the clamp screw firmiy.
AH > * Do not use any needle which is
bentor blunted.
NZ
« — Slide plate
(1) Gently pull the slide plate while
pushing it down.
(2) Lift out the bobbin.
7
If the thread would slip down from the spool.
thread through the hole of spool pin as shown.
==
== E
==]
N
* Place the felt and the
| spool on spool pín.
-—
Bobbin winder |
thread guide
(1) Draw thread from spool, and
guide the thread around the
bobbin winder thread guide.
``
Bobbin
winder
spindle =
(7 Bobbin ON
© winder
stopper
No J
Insert the thread through the hole
in the bobbin, threading from the
inside to the outside. Then put
the bobbin on the bobbin winder
spindle.
« A )
(3) Push the bobbin to the right,
and press the speed controller
with the free end of the thread
held in your hand. Stop the
machine when it has made a
few turns, and cut the thread
close to the hole in the bobbin.
O N
Ne 7
(4) When the bobbin is fully
wound, it will stop automati-
cally. Return the bobbin
winder to its original position
by moving the spindle to the
left, and cut the thread as
shown.
Stop the machine before
moving the bobbin winder
spindle. 1
©)
Le 7
(1) Place the bobbin in the (2) Guide the thread into the (3) Draw the thread to the left (4) Continue to draw lightly — (5) Pull out about 15 cm (6”)
bobbin holder with the notch A on the front side sliding it between the the thread until the thread of thread and attach the
thread running counter- of the bobbin holder. tension spring blades. slips into notch B. slide plate.
clockwise as illustrated.
12
( If the thread would slip down from )
the spool, thread through the hole
of spool pin as shown.
Raise the presser foot and turn the baiance wheel toward you until the
thread take-up lever comes to its highest position. Hold the spool of
thread with your right hand and thread the machine as follows.
+
II
(1) Place the felt and the spool on spool pin, then draw the thread
Æ around the thread guide and down into the tension.
N
(2) Then down around the check spring holder.
(3) Firmly draw the thread from left to right over the thread take-up
lever and down into the thread take-up lever eye.
(4) (5) Then down through the thread guides.
(6) Slide the thread behind the needle bar thread guide on the left.
(7) Thread the needle from the front to the back.
7
a
ty
©)
q
J
<
Thread
take-up
lever
<="
13
в fo
© в
Ha)
Nee 7 x ”
(1) Hold the needle thread lightly with your (2) Turn the balance wheel slowly towards you (3) Pull 15 cm (6) of both threads to the
left hand. with your right hand until the needle goes back and under the presser foot.
down and continue turning the balance
wheel until the thread take-up lever comes
to its highest position. Lightly draw up the
needle thread forming a loop of the bobbin
thread.
14
( в
N 7
The needie thread and the bobbin thread should
interlock in the center of two layers of fabric in
straight seams.
To obtain better zigzag stitches, the upper
tension should be slightly weaker than in the case
of straight sewing.
The upper thread should appear slightly on the
reverse side of the fabric.
/ ™
Loosen
> В
= [A
gd =
Tighten Setting
mark
Nu 7
There are many reasons for
having to reset the tension.
The best tension for one
fabric may not be correct
for another. The required
tension depends upon the
stiffness, thickness and
number of layers of fabric
being sewn, as well as the
type of stitch you are
making.
< The Needle Thread is too Tight > < The Needle Thread is too Loose >
4
f The bobbin thread
loops on the right
side of fabric.
N и
Loosen the needle thread
tension by moving the dial to
a lower number.
/ N
The needie thread
loops on the wrong
side of fabric.
Ne 7
Tighten the needle thread
tension by moving the dial to
a higher number.
15
Set here.
Г \ Turn the balance wheel with your
Set here. hand until the tip of needle comes
out of fabric. Select the stitch by
turning the pattern selector dial.
Refer to page 33 for overlock.
Straight/
Zigzag
N J
Pattern @ с Ware si = 3 с ПР o = Va Æ
Stitch
length 15-4 10.3 — 4 0.5 1~3 0.5 0.3 — 1 5.5.
dial ~ 1.5 ~15
Edo 3 = - 3 | |
Stitch 110 > 5 : |
| >» | == 3 $ |
| | z =
16
Set the stitch length by turning
the stitch length dial.
Refer to the chart below left for
the stitch lenath.
< Variation of Stitch Length >
4
35
О
| | > Range for buttonhole
4 > ( Y Fabric is fed in reverse when the
reverse lever is pressed. When it is
Set here. released, fabric is fed forward.
Reverse lever
Stitch length dial
\ J | \ J
— Dense stitch length
—— Standard stitch length 4 \ The number indicates the distance
between the center needle
istance > .
D position and the line.
—— Coarse stitch iength
When sewing stretch stitch, set the stitch
length dial at S.S. normally. However, the
stitch becomes unbalanced depending upon
fabrics. When it occurs, correct the balance
as shown.
17
Basic Sewing
< Starting Sewing >
( N
Machine Setting
2 10 6
25 =
= o
SE= )
| | (1) While holding the threads with your
| left hand, turn the balance wheel
toward you to bring the needle into
®
(2) Lower the presser foot, and press
the speed controller gently, then
start sewing slowly.
the fabric where you wish to start
sewing.
< Fastening Seams >
©
Thread
cutter
(1) Bring the needle down into the fabric, and
raise the presser foot. Then pivot the
fabric to the direction desired. Lower the
foot to start sewing.
(3) Use the thread cutter.
The threads are cut the proper length
for starting the next seam.
(1) For fastening the end of seams, press
the reverse lever and sew several
reverse stitches.
(2) Bring the thread take-up lever at its
highest position, and raise the presser
foot. Then draw the fabric out to the
rear.
18
Machine Setting
2to5
Thread Tension
Stitch Lenath
0.3 to 4
NP
- 2
Zigzag Foot (A)
Ш
No J
Zigzag width can be regulated in the
range of the symbol as illustrated
above.
19
20
Machine Setting
2t06
5.5.
Thread Tension
Stitch Length
t (A) ds
Ш
Individual Straight/Zigzag Sewing
7
This strong, durable stitch is recom-
mended where both elasticity and
strength are needed to ensure comfort
and durability.
Machine Setting
Y EE
S Е
mw) Buttonhole Foot 0 о -
: Hi at (4) Sew down the left side of
No J no. the buttonhole to the
Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap © Lead both threads to the left. bottom end. Raise the
needle.
of fabric you plan to use. Try the buttonhole
with the button you will use. (3) Lower the needle into the
fabric where the buttonhole is
to start, and lower the foot.
(5) Set the pattern selector dial
at * || " and sew b
stitches of bartack, then
raise the needle from the
fabric.
@ Set the pattern selector dial at ||!
ZB
Sew five stitches of bartack, and raise the needie from
(6) Set the pattern selector dial at “
Remove
the
Sew up the right side of
buttonhole. Stop the machine the fabric.
when you are directly opposite Then set the pattern selector dial at “ ‘and
the first stitch on the left hand
side, and raise the needle.
sew a few stitches to secure the seam.
the fabric from the machine, and
the sewing threads.
insert a pin inside the bartack.
opening with a seam ripper.
to cut the stitches.
cut
Then cut the
Be careful not
21
( . N N N
Machine Setting
1to4
3 or i 5 == у
> Thread Tension
Stitch Length
1 to 3 25
Blind Stitch Foot \_|, ==
(G) —
e 1.55—
Sliding guide
7 и J
(1) Position the fabric on the machine so (2) Turn the guide screw and move the
that the needle just pierces the sliding guide next to the folded
folded edge of the fabric when the edge. Sew the folded edge guiding
needle comes over to the extreme along the sliding guide.
left side. Lower the presser foot.
< How to Fold the Fabric > < How to Set the Guide >
a 0.4 to 0.7 cm 04w007em ) ( >
(5/32 to 35/128") (5/32 to 35/128") Needle
/ /
f
Guide screw
Sliding guide
Light weight fabric Heavy weight fabric a
\ J К | J
On heavy weight fabrics that ravel, the raw edge should be overcast
first.
On light weight fabrics the raw edge can be turned under and pressed.
Fold up the hem the desired amount and pin in place.
Fold the hem under the fabric as illustrated.
22
Machine Setting
3to6
Thread Tension
Stitch Length
1.5 to 4
Ш
< Attaching Zipper Foot >
< Fabric Preparation >
( N
2 ст (6/8'')
>
TD End of
Opening
(basted)
N
of fabric
Nu / NX 7
(1) Put the rear pin of the (2) Lower the presser bar
foot on the groove of the lifter while holding the
foot holder. foot with your left hand.
N /
Place right sides of fabric together
and sew to the end of the zipper
opening.
Reverse stitch to knot the stitches.
Sew the zipper opening with a
basting stitches.
23
< To Sew >
(1) Fold back the left seam allowance. (4) Lower the needle into the fabric
at the point where sewing is to
(2) Turn under the right seam allowance
begin, then lower the foot.
to form a 0.2 to 0.3em (1/87) fold.
(3) Place the zipper teeth next to the
fold and pin in place.
24
/
(5) Sew through fold and zipper tape.
Stop just before the zipper foot
reaches the slider on the zipper
tape.
(6) Turn the balance wheel by hand
and lower the needle into the
fabric. Raise the zipper foot and
open the zipper. Lower the foot
and stitch the remainder of the
seam.
N J
(7) Close the zipper and spread the
fabric flat with the right side
facing up.
Move the zipper foot to the left
pin, guide the edge of the foot
along the zipper teeth and stitch
through fabric and zipper tape.
(9) Stop about 5 cm (2”) from the
top of the zipper.
With the needle down in the
fabric, raise the foot and remove
the basting stitches.
(1) With the needle down in the
fabric, open the zipper. Then
lower the foot and stitch the
remainder of the seam making
sure the fold is even.
25
7 /; ~
Machine Setting ©)
З 10 6
Thread Tension
Stitch Length
1.5 to 4 TES 0.25 cm |
— (1/8)
== 25—
г =
« © Make a double 0.25 cm (1/87) fold (2) Lower the needle into the fabric at
approximately 8 cm (37) in length. the point where sewing is to begin,
then lower the rolled hemming foot.
(3) Sew 1 to 2 cm while holding the
needle and bobbin threads.
< Trimming Corners >
© 4 1 ; i
0.7 cm (1/4")
0.7 em (1/4)
(4) Lower the needle into the fabric and (5) Lower the rolled hemming foot, then Trim about 0.7 em (1/4) from corners as
lift the rolled hemming foot. Insertthe sew by lifting up the edge of the fabric illustrated, to reduce bulk.
folded portion of the fabric into the to keep it feeding smoothly and
curl of the foot. evenly.
26
Machine Setting
2 10 6
Thread Tension
Stitch Length
1.5 to 3
a NE
Blind Stitch NE —
Foot (G) o
15 ——
©
0.1 to 0.2 cm (1/16)
J
(1) Fold the fabric with wrong sides
together on the foldline.
Position the fabric so that the
needle pierces 0.1 to 0.2 cm (1/16)
inside of folded part and lower the
presser foot.
Turn the guide screw and move the
sliding guide next to the folded
edge.
Sew the folded edge guiding along
the sliding guide.
(2) Press the pin tucks to one side.
27
Machine Setting
1 to À
0.5 to
Zigzag Foot (A)
Thread Tension
Stitch Length
UN
\. J
Baste {or fuse with iron-on fabric
joiner) applique pieces on the fabric.
Stitch around the applique making
sure the needle falls along the outer
edge of the applique.
When sewing corners, lower the
needle down into the fabric. Raise
the presser foot and pivot the fabric
to the right or left.
28
en
Machine Setting
1to4
A = Thread Tension
A
Stitch Length
HE
И в
«у
LE
N J
Sew seam and press seam allowance
open. Sew pattern stitch on right
side of fabric centering stitches over
the seam line.
Machine Setting
5.5.
TR
Zigzag Foot (A)
Stitch Length
[I
Machine Setting
3to 6
5.5.
На
Stitch Length
СОС
N J
(1) Place the fabric right side up, and
sew 1 cm (3/8) from the edge.
© N
N
(2) Trim close to stitching.
The stitch will prevent raveling.
N — | J
(1) Draw out 2 or 3 yarns where
fringing is to begin.
N ES
(2) Sew along the upper edge
where the yarns are drawn
out.
(3) Draw out remaining yarns.
29
Machine Setting (A)
0 to 1
pes
Thread Tension
Stitch Length
0.5 to 1
Ш
Ш
30
/
(1) Loosen the needle thread tension and
set the machine as illustrated (A).
Then sew a row of zigzag stitches.
(2) Set the machine as illustrated (B), and
sew over the right edge of the zigzag
stitching.
(3) Pull out the bobbin thread on the
zigzag stitching.
(4) Lift up the needle threads.
Machine Setting
Zigzag Foot (A)
1 10 4
Thread Tension
Stitch Length
3to4 à
135
Ш
3
VE J J
© Sew two rows 0.5 to 0.7 cm (2) Draw up the bobbin thread
(3/16 to 1/4”) apart. working from each end of the
fabric until the desired amount is
gathered.
Knot the threads at each end and
distribute the gathers evenly.
31
Machine Setting Machine Setting
3106 _ : 110 4
E L Thread Tension A Thread Tension
Stitch Length
Stitch Length
100 mE)
orn
MI
Hn
JN J N
(1) Mark the width for the
drawn work. Pull out one
or two fabric yarns at each
edge of the drawn work.
© ) (00 )
0.3 cm (1/87)
N J
Fold under 1.5 ст (1/27) on each
fabric edge and press.
Place a sheet of paper under the
fabrics.
с > N / Pin the two edges to paper 0.3 cm
@) Sew along the right edges. (3) Turn the fabric and sew along (1/87) apart.
the right edges. Sew slowly guiding the fabric so that
(4) Pull out all the yarns where the the needle catches the folded edge on
drawn work is required. each side.
39 Remove the paper.
(
Pattern selector dial
Push the
balance
wheel in.
Ne
To Prepare for Overlock Sewing
7
Chip guard
To select straight/zigzag stitch or overlock, turn the
pattern selector dial while pushing the balance wheel in.
The sewing light is switched over automatically.
< Straight/Zigzag > < Overlock >
Set here.
N J
< To Open >
Move the chip guard (dust cover
plate) lightly to the right and then
toward you.
Chip guard
< To Close >
Close the chip guard (dust cover
plate} by returning to its original
position.
The chip guard should be closed while sewing.
* As the machine sews, the edges of fabrics are cut by the knife and the
waste chips are fed toward you.
Ralance
wheel
Always turn the balance wheel
away from you when the overlock
stitch is selected, otherwise the
threads will be tangled.
33
Type of Fabrics Application Type of Thread Needle
Cotton No. 80 ~ 100
Overlocking Silk No. 80 — 100 No. 11
Synthetic No. 80 ~ 100
. Organdy, Georgette, Lawn,
Light weight Crepe de chine, Lining
Synthetic No. 80 - 100
Rolled hemming Silk Мо. 50 — 80 Мо. 11
Wooly nylon {for looper only}
Cotton Мо. 60 — 100
. . Cotton, Tricot, Linen
M d 7 r + * - —~ —~
edium weight Satin, Ordinally fabrics Overlocking Silk No. 50 ~ 100 No. 11 — 14
Synthetic No. 60 ~ 90
Cotton No. 40 ~ 60
Tweed, Coating, Denim,
Heavy weight Til rik enim Overlocking Silk No. 40 ~ 60 Мо. 14 — 16
Synthetic No. 40 ~ 60
Cotton No. 60 - 80
Knits Knitted fabrics Overlocking No. 11 ~ 14
Synthetic No. 60 - 90
34
= J
(1) Raise the needle above the presser foot,
and loosen the needle clamp screw, then
remove the needle.
*
Presser
foot
Presser
foot lifter
© )
Needie
stopper
E pin
Needie ——
clamp Needle
screw clamp
Flat
side to
the back A
N J
(2) Insert the new needle into the
needle clamp with its flat side to
the back until the top of needle
touches the needle stopper pin,
then tighten the needle clamp
screw.
Do not use any needle which is
bent or blunted.
Ne ”
By raising or lowering the presser foot
lifter, the presser foot goes up and down
respectively.
* While in operation, keep the presser
foot lowered except for testing stitches,
threading the machine or sewing heavy
weight fabrics.
Thread stripping
disc
Spool holder
wags >
wo 0
LAN
(1) When you use a small thread spool, place it with its slit side up and put the thread
stripping disc on top.
(2) if the thread would slip down from the spool during threading and/or sewing, put
a net on the spool as illustrated for preventing jamming. The net is supplied
with the machine.
36
Chip guard
* Threading chart is located on the back of
chip guard.
O
Thread guide plate
>
e
17
N J
(1) Lead the thread from the spool
and pass it through the two
holes in the right side of thread
guide plate as illustrated.
RE-THREADING
N 7
(2) Pass the thread through the
thread guide.
When you change the threads, re-thread as follows:
. Cut the threads near the spools.
Or JB 0 ND wa
. Replace the spools with new threads.
. Tie the new threads to old threads individually using a square knot.
. Raise the needle and foot, and loosen the both tensions.
. Pull the looper thread through the machine.
Then pull the needle thread until the knot gets to the eye of the
needle.
6. Cut the knot away and re-thread the needle.
37
Looper
tension
dial
y
3 spring
(3) Pass the thread between the tension (4) Pass the thread through the thread
discs from the right, then pull the both
sides of the thread. When you do so,
the thread passes the guide and check
spring in the tension dial.
guide as illustrated.
Thread
* Make sure that the thread is
between the tension discs.
Tension discs
38
Tweezers
q J
(5) Open the chip guard, then pass the
thread through the thread guide.
(6) By using a pair of tweezers, lead the
thread through the looper eye from
the front to the back.
7) Close the chip guard, then lead the
thread under the presser foot about
10 ст (47) to the back of machine.
O N ©
Thread guide plate Thread guide
JN
© Lead the thread from spool (2) Pass the thread through the
and pass it through the two thread guide as illustrated.
holes in the left side of thread
guide plate as illustrated.
39
O a
Needie
thread
tension
dial!
Check spring
N 7
(3) Pass the thread between tension
discs from the right. Then pull
the both sides of the thread.
When you do so, the thread
passes the guide and check
spring in the tension dial.
(4) Pass the thread through the
thread guide as illustrated.
„и Thread
* Make sure that the thread is
between the tension discs.
Tension discs
40
Needle
thread
guide
Tweezers
a
N. Xx J
(5) Pass the thread through the (6) Pass the thread through the needle
arm thread guide. thread guide.
(7) By using a pair of tweezers, thread
the needle, then lead the thread
under the presser foot about 10 cm
(47) to the back of machine.
Stitch length
selector knob
Stitch length
selector knob
= J
To select the stitch length, move the knob up or down while pushing it in.
“3" for normal sewing
“1” for small stitch
Normally the stitch length selector knob is set at “1” or “3”. However, the stitch length
between “1” and "3" may require for certain project. It can be obtained by setting the
knob at the middle hole.
< Thread Tension Dial > < Range of Tension >
7 | N 1 |
Tension Qverlocking
indicating
line Tighten
19 Te ,
For needle For needle thread Rolled
thread Loosen hemming
tension For needle
For thread
er
thread Overlocking &
tension Rolled li
— 7 © 4
6 2 7
For looper ©
For looper thread
thread
\ J
* Adjust the thread tension by using the both tension dials. The range of tension is shown on the dial.
* The thread tension varies depending on the types of fabric and thread.
AN aaa For overlocking
Affi Cee eee For rolled hemming
42
< The needle thread is too loose or the looper < The needle thread is too tight or the looper
thread is too tight. > thread is too loose. >
( N / N И N
< Correct Tension >
Needie Needle
Needle
thread thread
thread
Looper
thread Looper
thread Looper
thread
Turn the dial (1) to clockwise Turn the dial (1) to counter-
or the dial (2) to counter-clock- clockwise or the dial (2) to
wise. clockwise.
43
Overlock Sewing
N < Range of the Tension Dial >
7 в
For needle
thread
For looper
thread
N J
CHD
< Stitch Length Selector Knob >
( N
= Stitch
length
selector
knob
* Set the stitch length
selector knob at 3.
44
< Starting Sewing >
(7 x
DE) Ad
= я т E
SU |
SEN
С) >
> Threads “> |
\ sé © ny
(1) Draw the both needle and looper threads away from you
under the foot. (Raising the foot is not necessary.)
Turn the balance wheel slowly away from you about two
turns to check the interlocking of threads. While holding
slightly the end of threads to the back, press the speed
controller gently to make a thread chain about 5 cm (2).
(2) Insert the fabric under the toe of the foot.
Press the speed controller gentiy, then start sewing slowly.
The fabirc will be automatically fed, so guide the fabric in
the direction desired.
< Finishing Sewing >
=
(3) When stitching is completed,
continue to run the machine to
produce a thread chain for about
5 em (27) or more.
< Sewing Continuously >
( ~
*
Insert the fabric under the foot
without raising the foot, then start to
sew slowly.
(@
Thread
cutter
J
(4) Cut the threads with the thread
cutter as illustrated.
* If you find it difficult to produce
thread chain neatly, hold the threads
and pull to the back slightly while
running the machine.
45
< Preparation >
Stitch
(5) 'ength ;
selector ~
knob Needle!
Plate !
Needie
plate
set screw
Presser A
foot
screw
Presser
foot
7
< Application >
TTT
Drees
AM LE AH ARA LT ag
7
Edging on hem of skirt & frill
46
< Changing the Foot >
© )
Regular Rolled
foot hemming
foot
N J
(1) Change it to the rolled
hemming foot.
< Changing the Needle Plate > < Stitch Length Selector Knob >
7 N /, NN
(2) Regular ©)
needle Rolled hemming Stitch
needle plate
plate length
selector
4 O0 knob
O
9/0
u — N —
(2) Change it to the rolled (3) Move the knob down while
hemming needle plate. pushing it in.
No. 1 is for rolled hemming
& narrow hemming.
No. 3 is for picot edging.
< Type of Thread and Range of the Tension Dial >
~
Fabric Rolled Hemming Picot Edging Narrow Hemming
Thread Tension Dial Thread Tension Dial Thread Tension Dial
Synthetic Synthetic Synthetic —
Needie No. 80 ~ 100 No. 80 ~ 100 No. 80 ~ 100 >
. . , Po \
thread Silk Silk Silk i
No. 50 - 100 No. 50 - 100 No. 50 ~ 100 Ns
Thin fabric Ng LS
Organdy,
Crepe de Chine. Wooly nylon Wooly nyion Wooly nylon
Lawn Synthetic
Georgette Looper No. 80 ~ 100
thread Silk
Мо. 50 — 100
Stitch
engt
selector 3
knob
Needle
Looper thread Looper Needle thread Needle thread
thread thread Looper thread :
Correct
tension
N J
< Overedging >
7
48
< Application >
Overedging
< Type of thread and range of the tension dial >
——
Fabric Thread Tension Dial
Needle Cotton No. 60 ~ 80
Silk No. 50 ~ 80
thread Svntheti N
Medium ynthetic No. 60~ 80
to
heavy
fabric
Looper Buttonhole twist
thread
Stitch
length
selector
L knob
* Use the regular foot and regular needle plate.
Decorative
flatiock
= J
< Sewing >
( - N
UN y
Flatiock
guide plate
N J
Fold the fabric with wrong si
together.
de
Raise the presser foot, and insert the
fabric under the foot, then lower the
foot. Sew along the edge without
cutting it.
< Preparation >
/
\
Attach the flatlock guide plate with
the needle plate set screw.
< Type of thread and range of the tension dial >
Open the seam, and iron the wrong side of fabric.
и
Fabric Thread Tension Dial
Needle Cotton No. 60 ~ 80
thread Silk No. 50 ~ 80
Synthetic No. 60~ 80
Medium
to
heavy
fabric Looper Buttonhole twist
thread
Stitch
length 3
selector |
« knob J
* Use the regular foot and regular needle plate.
49
50
< Type of Thread and Range of the Tension Dial >
—
Fabric Thread Tension Dial
Cotton No. 60 ~ 80
Needle | ci No. 50 ~ 80
thread | Svnthetic No. 60 ~ 80
Medium
thickness
Looper Buttonhole twist
thread
Stitch
length 3
selector
knob
< Preparation >
* Use the regular foot and regular needle plate.
N
Attach the flatlock guide plate with
the needle plate set screw.
< Sewing >
7
(1) -A
Self stick
sewing tape
Flatiock guide plate
(1) -A Fold the both fabrics near
(1) -в
the edge, and tape them
together as illustrated.
Put both fabrics with right
sides together.
Sew a straight seam along
the edge as shown above
© -B. (Use straight/zigzag
side of the machine.)
(2) Fold the fabric along the edge
with wrong sides together.
Raise the presser foot, and
insert the fabric, then lower
the foot.
Sew along the edge without
cutting the fabric.
3) (4) (5) Open the seam, and iron the wrongside of fabric.
51
< Changing the Foot > < Changing the Needle Plate > < Setting the Flatlock Guide Plate >
/ N 4 NÓ NÓ
< Application > ;
Regular
needle
Regular plate
Pin tucking foot
Rolled hemming
Rolled needle plate
hemming
foot
« J « J J
Change it to the rolled hem- Change it to the rolled hem- Attach the flatlock guide plate with the
ming foot. ming needle plate. needle plate set screw.
< Sewing >
bo N
© |
- Fiatlock
guide plate
1
(1)Fold the fabric with wrong sides (2) Press the pin tucks to one side.
together on the foldline.
Sew guiding the folded edge along the
flatlock guide plate.
52
< Type of Thread and Range of the Tension Dial >
/
Fabric Thread Tension Dial
Thin fabric Needie Synthetic No. 80~ 100
thread Silk No. 50 — 100
Organdy,
Crepe de Chine,
Lawn,
Georgette
L Wooly nylon
— aed Synthetic №. 80 — 100
rea Silk No. 50 ~ 100
Stitch
length
selector 1 3
knob
Needle Needle
thread thread
Looper Looper
thread thread
Correct
tension
\,
* Refer to Page 42 for adjusting the thread tension.
53
< Type of Thread and Range of the Tension Dial >
и
Fabric Thread Tension Dial )
Needle Synthetic
thread thread No. 40 — 80
Stretch
fabric Wooly nyion
Looper Synthetic
thread thread No. 40 80
Stitch
length
selector 3
knob 5
< Correct Tension >
( N
. Needie
thread
Looper
thread
*
54
Use the regular foot and regular needle plate.
< The needle thread is too loose or the
looper thread is too tight. >
ño N
Looper
thread Needle
thread
Turn the dial (1) to clock-
wise or the dial (2) to
counter-clockwise.
< Rolled Hemming > < Picot Edging >
/ > ( > / в
Ordinary
thread (2) (
Woolly
nylon
thread
u > J
Threading is easier by doing the way shown as At the beginning of rolled hemming it is recom- It is recommended to pull the fabric to the back
above. mended to pull the end of threads to the back lightly to help the machine to feed.
lightly.
55
Care of Your Machine
* The bobbin area and hook race should be cleaned after completion of every garment.
* Do not store the machine in an area of high humidity, near a radiator or in direct sunlight.
* Clean the outside of the machine with a soft cloth and neutral soap.
о
(1) Turn off the power or unplug the (2) Take out the bobbin. (3) Put the bobbin back to the holder.
machine. Remove the slide plate Brush out dust and lint or you @ Insert the slide plate by pushing
from the machine. may use a vacuum cleaner.
it into the grooves on both sides.
(1) Unplug the machine and remove (2) Remove the needle plate set screw, (3) Take out the bobbin. (à) Lift up the bobbin holder and
the presser foot and needle. and take out the needle plate. remove it.
56
(1) Turn off the power or unplug the
machine, and clean the feed dog
and hook race with a lint brush.
Triangle
marks
> PC stopper
A NNotch
| | J
(1) Line up the triangle marks and
position the bobbin holder so
that the notch fits next to the
stopper in the hook race.
(2) Wipe the hook race with a soft
dry cloth.
2 Put the bobbin in.
« N° |)
(3) Clean the bobbin holder with a
lint brush and a soft dry cloth.
(3) Line up the two needie plate
guide pins with the needle plate,
and tighten the needle plate set
screw,
57
\ J
(1) Turn off the power or unplug the
machine.
Remove the needle and presser
foot.
“Ses
\ J
(3) Push the lint around the feed dog
to the front by using a lint brush.
58
N
(2) Remove the two needle plate set
screws, then take out the needle
plate.
J
© )
tint
brush
Nu J
(2) Remove the waste chips to the front
with a lint brush.
< Straight/Zigzag >
X
(O
Screw driv
(large)
Face plate
J
(1) Turn off the power or unplug the
machine, then remove the face plate.
< Overlock >
© |
Side cover
Screw driver
(large)
N J
(1) Turn off the power or unplug the
machine, then remove the side cover.
©
N
(2) Screw-on type
Toremove..... Turn to the left.
Toputon..... Turn to the right.
Bayonet type
Toremove..... Push and twist to the
left.
To put on . . Push and twist to the
right.
© В
No 7
(2) Screw-on type
To remove
Toputon
a4 - + a =
в ви à
Bayonet type
To remove
Toputon
зн кк
++ « = * =
Turn to the left.
Turn to the right.
Push and twist to the
left.
Push and twist to the
right.
(3) Attach the face plate.
(3) Attach the side cover.
59
( >
\ J
Wipe off dust or oil gently with a soft cloth.
Do not use thinner, petrol, benzine or cleaning
compound.
60
knife Upper
knife
Screw
driver
N
< To Remove >
(1) Disconnect the machine from the power
supply.
(2) Open the chip guard.
(3) Remove hexagon bolt and upper knife.
0.5 to 1 mm
(9) e / Upper
knife
Lower Guide
knife pin
Hexagaon
bolt
N >
< To Attach >
(1) Line up the holes on the knife with the
guide pin and threaded hole.
Put the bolt on and tighten slightly.
(2) Turn the balance wheel away from you
until the upper knife comes to its lowest
position. Position the upper knife so that
the edge of the upper knife overlaps the
edge of the lower knife between 0.5 mm
and 1 mm (1/32) as shown, then tighten
the bolt firmly.
(3) Close the chip guard.
Disconnect the machie from the power supply before oiling.
The oiling points are marked with arrows in the illustration below.
Apply a few drops of fine quality sewing machine oil in a certain period depending on how often you use the machine.
It is recommended to apply oil once a week in normal use.
/
Screw
| 6“
Тор
cover
< Overlock >
< Straight/Zigzag >
It is easier to oil if the
top cover is removed.
61
Trouble Shooting
Condition Cause Reference В
The needle thread 1. The needle thread is not threaded properly. See Page 13
breaks. 2. The needle thread tension is too tight. See Page 15
3. The needle is bent or blunted. See Page 10
4. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See Page 10
5. The fabric is not being drawn to the rear when sewing is finished. See Page 18
6. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needie. See Page 10
7. The both threads are not pulled back and under the presser foot. See Page 14
The bobbin thread 1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin holder. See Page 12
breaks. 2. Lint has been collected in the bobbin holder and/or tension spring. See Pages 56 & 57
3. The bobbin does not rotate smoothly. Replace the bobbin.
The needle breaks. 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See Page 10
2. The needle is bent or blunted. See Page 10
3. The needle clamp screw is loose. See Page 10
4. The tension of needle thread is too tight. See Page 15
5. The fabric is not drawn to the rear when sewing is finished. See Page 18
6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn. See Page 10
7. The pattern selector dial had been turned while the needie was in the fabrics. Raise needle and
then turn the dial.
Skipped stitches 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See Page 10
2. The needle is bent or blunted. See Page 10
3. The needle and/or the thread are not suitable for the fabric being sewn. See Page 10
4. The needle thread is not threaded properly. See Page 13
q 5. ABLUE TIPPED needle is not being used for sewing stretch, very fine fabrics and synthetics. See Page 10
62
—
Condition Cause Reference
Seam puckering 1. The needle thread tension is too tight. See Page 15
2. The needle thread and/or bobbin thread are not threaded properly. See Pages 12 & 13
3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn. See Page 10
4. The stitches are too coarse for the fabric being sewn. See Page 16
Stitches loop 1. The needle thread tension is to loose. See Page 15
behind the fabric. 2. The needle is either too heavy or too fine for the thread. See Page 10
The fabric is not 1. The feed dog is packed with lint. See Page 57
being fed smoothly. 2. The stitches are too fine. See Page 16
3. The fabric is not fed at the beginning of sewing. See Page 18
4, The feed dog is dropped. See Page 9
The machine does 1. The machine has not been plugged in firmly. See Page 7
not operate. 2. Thread is jammed in hook mechanism. See Pages 56 & 57
3. The pattern selector dial has been set at ““overlock sewing”. See Page 8
4. The bobbin winder spindle has been pushed to the winding position. See Page 11
The machine is 1. The machine is in need of oil. See Page 61
noisy. 2. Dust and lint have collected in the hook mechanism. See Pages 56 & 57
3. The feed dog is packed with lint. See Page 57
63
Condition Cause Reference
The cloth is not 1. The feed dog is packed with lint. See Page 58
being fed smoothly. 2. The presser foot has been raised. See Page 35
The needle breaks. 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See Page 35
2. The needie is bent or blunted. See Page 35
3. The fabric is forcediy pulled. See Page 45
4. The thread is jumming with spool pin. See Page 36
The needle and/or 1. The machine is not correctly threaded. See Pages 37 ~ 40
looper thread break. 2. The needle or the looper thread tension is too tight. See Page 42
3. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See Page 3b
4. The needle is bent or blunted. See Page 35
5. The thread is jamming with spool pin. See Page 36
Skipped Stitches 1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. See Page 35
2. The needie is bent or blunted. See Page 35
3. The machine is not correctly threaded. See Pages 37 ~ 40
The seam is not 1. The needle and/or looper thread tensions are not correctly adjusted. See Page 42
sewn neatly. 2. The machine is not correctly threaded. See Pages 37 ~ 40
3. The needle and/or the thread are not suitable for the fabric being sewn. See Page 34
Seam Puckering 1. The needle and/or the looper thread tensions are not correctly adjusted. See Page 42
2. The machine is not correctly threaded. See Pages 37 ~ 40
The machine does not 1. The machine has not been plugged in firmly. See Page 7
operate. 2. The stitch selector dial has been set at “Straight/Zigzag Stitch”. See Page 33
3. The bobbin winder spindle has been pressed to the winding position. See Page 11
724-800-106(E-N}
Printed in Japan