Singer Genie 354 Owner Manual

 With NEW ”
Elastic Stretch |
Stitch
the GENRE
Portable Zig-Zag Sewing Machine by SINGER
Congratulations...
You are about to discover a wonderful world of sewing pleasure with your Cone
sewing machine. You will enjoy its lightweight portability and its many features —
New elastic stretch stitch... for knits, stretch fabrics and elastic.
Plain zig-zag stitching for buttonholes, buttons, and decorative needle work.
Multi-stitch zig-zag stitching for mending, joining, and reinforcing without bulk.
Blindstitching for overedged seams and almost invisible hems,
Exclusive drop-in, front bobbin for quick, convenient bobbin removal and
replacement,
Plus the most-wanted accessories, including a zipper foot for corded seams and
zippers, and ball-point needles for synthetic and stretch fabrics... all neatly stored
in a handy pouch packed with the machine.
As you go through this book, you will discover how these and many other
features enable you to sew beautifully and easily.
Form B254 *A Trademark of THE SINGER COMPANY Printed in U.S.A.
Rev. 1-79 Copyright © 1974 by THE SINGER COMPANY
Satin Stitching 8 0 4 1 000 1 0 1 1 0 0 0 3 604 4040000 8 81 886 23 Fashion Aids
All Rights Reserved Throughout the World
CONTENTS
. Getting to Know Your Sewing Machine 2 6. Sewing the Professional Way .......... 30
Principal Parts ........................... 2 Hints on Sewing Special Fabrics .......... 31
Buttons and Buttonholes ................. 35
Darning .....coiii 0 era 38
. Getting Ready to Sew................... 4 Zippers ......... es0e0irecera rea arena. 39
Preliminary Steps ........................ 4 Using the Plain Zig-Zag Stitch............. 41
Choosing Needle and Thread.............. 6 Using the Elastic Stretch Stitch ........... 42
Threading the Bobbin Case and Needle.. 10, 11 Using the Multi-Stitch Zig-Zag ............ 43
Using the Blindstitch ..................... 44
dusting Selectors 111111111111 14 7. Caring for Your Sewing Machine........ 45
Sewing a Seam... 16 Cleaning the Machine ..................... 45
Removing Face Plate and Bobbin Case.... 46
Changing Light Bulb ...................... 48
. Zig-Zag Stitching ....................... 20 Replacing Slide Plate and End Cover....... 49
Basic Zig-Zag Patterns ................... 20 Performance Checklist .................... 50
Adjusting Selectors ............. aaa 21
Ce AS 51
. Accessories and When to Use Them... 24 Index LL LL LL AL a a aa aan 52
. Bobbin-Winder
Tension Disc
. Take-up Lever.
Needle-Thread
Tension Discs
. Needle-Thread
Tension Dial
5. Slide Plate
6. Stitch Width
10.
Selector
. Needle Position
Selector
. Stitch Pattern
Selector
. Power & Light
Switch
Stitch Length
Control
2 GETTING READY TO SEW
11.
12.
13.
14.
Reverse-Stitch
Push Button
Bobbin Winder
Spool Pin
Presser-Foot
Lifter
. Thread Cutter
. Presser Foot
. Feed
18. Bobbin
. Needle Plate
. Needle Clamp
. Hand Wheel
. Hand Wheel Disc
. Pouch
. End Cover
. Threading
Chart
preliminary steps
1, CONNECTING THE MACHINE
Before plugging in your machine, be sure
that the electrical information indicated on
the bottom of your machine conforms to your
electrical power supply.
Push the machine plug into the receptacle
at the right end of the machine. Then connect
the power-line plug to your electrical outlet.
2. OPERATING MACHINE
AND CONTROLLER
To turn on both machine and sewing light,
press right side of power and light switch
to ON position (red bar on switch will be
visible). To turn off machine and light, press
lett side of switch to OFF position.
CAUTION : Turn off the power and light switch
before changing needles, presser feet and needle
plates and when leaving the machine unattended. (1 -
This eliminates the possibility of starting the ~~. Power and
machine by accidentally pressing the speed ~~ [Light Switch
controller. e
To run the machine, press the speed con-
troller. The harder you press, the faster the
machine will sew.
To stop the machine from sewing, remove | | CN
pressure from speed controller. 5
choosing needle and thread
The needle and thread you choose will depend selection. Refer to it before starting a sewing
upon the fabric being stitched. The table be- project. Be sure to use the same size and type
low is a practical guide to needle and thread of thread in both needle and bobbin.
FABRIC, THREAD AND NEEDLE TABLE
DELICATE — tulle, chiffon, fine lace, Fine polyester, mon. Style
organza, chiffon velvet SE, - Е 5 | se “or “cotton thread”. 2000
LIGHTWEIGHT _ batiste, отдала, jer- 50 mercerized cotfon E
«Sey, voile, taffeta, crepe, chiffon vel- Cotte n wrapped polyester uo
vet, ‘plastic film, satin, surah, peau. de 100% polyester
“soie, shantung, brocade == я E nylon, “A” silk
MEDIUM WEIGHT on sana per- — 50 rcerized. ‘cotton Ci o
le piqué, linen; chintz, faille, fine Cotte rapped pooner с 3 020
~ corduroy, velvet; suitings, vinyl, 100% polyester. E =
; seersucker, terry cloth, challis, twill р SAIT Ta Tai A
U
| — gabardine, | y
sailcloth, denim, coatings, drapery - ‘mercerized cot
fabrics, vinyl, deep- pile fabrics, cor-- Cotton wrapped poser 4 15 x 1 I
duroy, bonded fabric ~~ 40 to 60 cotton: AE TES
HEAVY — overcoatings, dungaree, _ Heavy-duty
upholstery fabrics, canvas
mercerized cotton
WOVEN FABRICS. (All Weights) a
decorative. straight stitch topstitching À „(But EC
KNITS, WOVEN STRETCH AND Cotton wr
| ELASTIC — double knits, bonded 5
knits, spandex, | nylon ‘tricot, se
“tricot, jersey, panné velvet pith
LEATHER — suede, kidskin, capeskin, Cot
lambskin, lined leathers, calf, + patent, —
simulated. leathers Sed AE AS
ped polyester 5
zed cotton
T Use with 50 mercerized cotton or ‘*A'’ silk in bobbin. 7
WINDING THE BOBBIN
e Press hand wheel disc
at (9) symbol.
e Open slide plate just
enough to make bobbin
accessible, and lift out
bobbin.
e Close slide plate.
inding Steps
e Raise spool pin and place felt washer (in-
cluded with your attachments) on spool
pin. Break paper at end of spool if
necessary, and place thread spool on
pin. Lead thread around tension disc
and through small hole in bobbin (from
the inside).
e Place bobbin on holder and push bob-
bin to right (to engage bobbin winder).
e Hold thread as shown and start machine.
Cut off thread end when winding is well
under way.
e When required amount of thread has
been wound (winding will stop by itself
when bobbin is full), stop machine and
cut connecting thread.
e Push bobbin toward left to disengage
bobbin winder.
e Press hand wheel disc for sewing (see
page 8).
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE
e Hold bobbin so that e Pull thread into the e Draw about three e Close slide plate, al-
thread unwinds as = notch, draw it under inches of thread lowingthreadto enter
shown. Place bobbin tension spring and diagonally across slot between slide
in bobbin case. back into slot. the bobbin. and needle plate.
10
THREADING THE NEEDLE
————————————————o—)]
rares ar
Turn hand wheel toward you to raise needle
to its highest point and raise presser foot,
Place thread spool on spool pin, over felt,
| and lead thread through all threading points.
| Thread needle from front to back.
e Draw about three inches of thread through
eye of needle.
Threading the Needle
11
RAISING THE BOBBIN THREAD
Now that you have threaded the machine, you will need to raise the bobbin thread through
the needle hole in the needle plate. To do this:
e Hold needle thread e Continue turning e Open the loop with
lightly with left hand hand wheeland hold- your fingers.
and bobbin threads
under presser foot
and turn hand wheel
slowly toward you so
that needle enters
hole in needle plate.
ing needlethread until
needlerises. Tighten
your hold on the
needle thread and
bring up bobbin
e Place both needle
and draw to back
of machine.
thread in a loop. ... You are-now ready to sew
12
3 STRAIGHT STITCHING
Pattern Selector: Any setting
Needle Position: Js Center
Stitch Width: ; Straight Stitch
Stitch Length: To suit fabric
General Purpose Needle Plate and Foot
To sew perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics,
adjust stitch length, and thread tension
as instructed on the following pages.
Before you move the selectors to set your
sewing machine for straight stitching, turn
hand wheel toward you until needle is above
the needle plate.
STARTING TO SEW
eo Raise presser foot.
e Position needle in fabric where stitching
is to start.
e Lower presser foot and start machine.
adjusting selectors best for lightweight fabric; longer ones for
heavy fabric. The FINE A area is used for
the adjustment of zig-zag satin stitching
(see page 23).
SETTING STITCH LENGTH
e Position control so that indicator is aligned
with stitch length number.
e To shorten the stitch, move control upward
to a higher number.
e To /engthen the stitch, move control down-
ward to a lower number.
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
For reverse stitching, press the reverse-
The stitch control lets you select the length stitch push button downward as far as it
of stitches. Numbers to left of the control will go and hold in place (the button can
represent the number of straight stitches be pushed in while the machine is sewing).
per inch; the higher the number, the shorter Release pressure on the push button to return
the stitch. Generally, shorter stitches are to forward stitching.
14
REGULATING NEEDLE-THREAD TENSION
Correct thread tension is important because
too much or too little will weaken your seams
or cause your fabric to pucker. Make a test
sample with the fabric and thread you plan
to use and examine it. A perfect stitch will
have the needle and bobbin threads locked
between the layers of fabric with no loops on
top or bottom and no puckers.
The tension dial regulates the degree of ten-
sion on your needle thread. Set it according
to type of thread and fabric you use. Num-
bers on dial eliminate guesswork in duplicating
settings.
If stitches in your test sample look too loose,
increase needle-thread tension. If the fabric
puckers, decrease tension.
e To increase tension, turn dial to higher
number.
e Todecrease tension,turn dial to lower number.
PRESSER - FOOT PRESSURE
Presser - foot pressure has been preset for
all your sewing.
15
sewing a seam
e Ontopofthe fabric (never
on underside in contact
with feed).
e At right angles to the
stitching line.
e Just nipping into the
fabric at stitching line.
STARTING A SEAM
e Set stitch length selector
for desired number of
stitches per inch.
PIN BASTING e Align fabric with appro-
Pin basting is a time- priate foam guideline (see
saver and can be used pay - e Backstitch to edge for reinforcement
when you sew easy- e Position needle in fabric by pushing in reverse-stitch push button.
to-handle fabric. Use about 1/2 inch from back Hold button until stitches reach edge of
fine pins and place them: edge. fabric, then release for forward stitching.
16
KEEPING THE SEAM STRAIGHT
| Cornering fs = |
Crossiine =
seams straight. Num-
bers indicate distance,
in 8ths of an inch, from
the needle. If you want
a 5/8-inch seam, for exam-
ple, keep right-hand edge
of fabric on number 5
guideline.
TURNING SQUARE
CORNERS - 1
To turn a square corner — Fabric at Crosslines Fabric after Turning
5/8-inch from fabric edge,
use the crosslines on
the slide plate. e Stop stitching, with needle down, when
e Line up fabric with bottom edge of fabric reaches cornering
right or left guideline crosslines on slide plate.
5 on needie plate. e Raise presser foot and turn fabric on
The numbered lines e Stitch seam, slowing needle, bringing bottom edge of fabric
on the needle plate speedas you approach in line with guideline 5.
are guides for keeping corner. e Lower foot and stitch in new direction.
17
GUIDING AND SUPPORTING
FABRIC
Most fabrics need only to be guided in front
of the presser foot. Some fabrics, however,
require support while being stitched (see
page 31).
CURVED SEAMS
Use a short stitch length for elasticity and
strength. For example, if you use 12 stitches
per inch for straight seams, select 15 to 20 per
inch to stitch curved seams in the same fabric.
18
REINFORCING END OF SEAM
eo Stitchtothe fabric edge. Backstitch 1/2 inch
to reinforce the end of the seam by pushing
in the reverse-stitch push button and then
releasing it.
e Turn hand wheel toward you to bring needle
to its highest point.
e Raise presser foot and remove fabric by
drawing it to the back and left.
e Cut threads on thread cutter at rear of
presser bar.
4 71G-ZAG STITCHING
The basic zig-zag stitches built into your sewing machine, and the selector settings for obtaining
these patterns are shown below.
SETTING PATTERN SELECTOR
e Set stitch width at i each time before
moving pattern selector.
e Adjust stitch length, stitch place-
ment, stitch width and needle-
thread tension as instructed on
the following pages.
20
adjusting selectors
ADJUSTING WIDTH ADJUSTING STITCH ADJUSTING NEEDLE-
OF DESIGN PLACEMENT THREAD TENSION
Before adjusting stitch pattern, stitch width or needle position Zig-zag stitching requires less
selectors, make sure needle is above fabric. needle-thread tension than
Move selector to width setting Most zig-zag stitching will be straight stitching. If stitches
desired. Use blue line to adjust done in center (Jd) needle do not lie flat and fabric is
width of elastic stretch stitch for position. Left (LL) and right puckered, lower tension by
plain seams (see page 42). (A) settings are for special turning dial to a lower number.
stitch placements, as shown
above.
21
ZIG-ZAG STITCHING (Continued)
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
Any stitch length setting from 6 to just below the FINE"
A area will give you an open zig-zag stitch of the zig-zag
pattern you select. The lower the number, the more
open your stitches will be. The ‘‘FINE’' stitch area is
used for adjusting zig-zag satin stitching (see page 23).
General Purpose
Foot
CHOOSING ACCESSORIES
Special Purpose Zipper Foot
Foot Refer to pages 26 and 27, and to detailed instructions
CS included in the section called ‘‘Sewing the Professional
XH Way"', beginning on page 30.
22
satin stitching
Satin stitching, a series of closely spaced zig-zag stitches,
is useful for both utility and decorative work; for example, 20 Мей |
buttonholes, applique and bar tacks. 15 5
Make a test sample first so you can adjust stitch length 12 12
and thread tension properly. Soft fabrics require a backing 197 "o
to ensure a firm stitch. Crisp organdy or lawn is suitable 6 её
for this purpose.
SELECTOR SETTINGS AND ACCESSORIES
Pattern Selector: 3 Plain Zig-Zag
Needle Position: J. Center
Stitch Width: % to
Stitch Length: A (Fine Area)
General Purpose Needle Plate and Special Purpose Foot
Adjusting Stitch Length
Gradually move stitch control upward until stitches are
closely spaced and form a smooth surface.
Adjusting Thread Tension
If fabric is puckered, lower needle-thread tension by turning
tension dial to a lower number.
decreased as the stitch width is increased.
5 ACCESSORIES
... and when to use them
The following accesssories come with your
Genie sewing machine. Additional accessories,
listed on page 51, are available at your local
Singer Sewing Center.
BOBBINS
Transparent, drop-in bobbin, No 172336, shows
thread supply at a glance.
NEEDLES
IMPORTANT: Your SINGER sewing machine
has been designed to obtain best results with
SINGER" needles. You should follow the recom-
mendations in this instruction book and on
the needle package for correct style and size
of needle for different types and weights of
abrics.
The tension should be
Adjusting Stitch Length
for Satin Stitching
Needle Bar > Needle-Clamp Screw
Needle Clamp — | !!
Flat Side
of Needle
to Back
Changing the Needle
Your machine is fitted with a style No 2020,
size 14 needle for all-purpose sewing.
The needle pack supplied with your accessories
contains additional style 2020 needles for all-pur-
pose sewing, as well as style 2045 ball-point
(yellow band) needles for sewing synthetic knits
and stretch fabrics.
CHANGING THE NEEDLE
The needle clamp is designed so that the nee-
dle cannot be inserted backward. To change
the needle:
1. Raise needle bar to its highest position,
loosen needle-clamp screw, and remove nee-
dle.
2. Insert new needle in clamp. with the flat side
of the needle to the back; push it up as
far as it will go.
3. Tighten needle-clamp screw.
25
ACCESSORIES (Continued)
26
CHANGING PRESSER FEET
The presser feet that are supplied with your
machine snap on and off a common shank.
To change the foot:
1. Raise needle to its highest position and
raise the presser-foot lifter.
2. Press toe of presser foot upward (as far
as it will go) and then snap down to remove
the foot.
3. Center the new presser foot under the
shank and lower the presser-foot lifter so
that shank fits over the presser-foot pin.
4. Press down on presser-foot screw until
foot snaps into place.
ACCESSORIES (Continued)
GENERAL PURPOSE FOOT AND NEEDLE
PLATE are in place on the machine. Use
them for all utility sewing, with either straight
or zig-zag stitching.
SPECIAL PURPOSE FOOT is used for all
kinds of decorative zig-zag stitching.
Use this foot for:
eo Zig-zag satin stitching
e Applique
e Buttonholes
ZIPPER FOOT is used to place stitching
close to a raised edge. It can be fitted to the
presser-foot shank for use on either right or
left side of the needle. Use it for: |
e Corded seams
e Tubular cording
e Zipper insertion
BLINDSTITCH HEM GUIDE is used with
the general purpose foot to position the hem
fold for blindstitch hemming (page 44). To
attach, simply loosen presser-foot screw and
slip guide between screw and presser-foot
shank. Position guide so that it clears both
slide plate and presser-foot toe. Tighten
screw.
RAISING PLATE is in-
serted under the needle
plate when fabric feeding
is not required, as for
button sewing (page 35)
and free-motion darning
(page 38). Place raising
plate in slideway, and
close slide plate so that
it pushes raising plate
under needle plate, as
shown at left.
REMOVING AND REPLACING
NEEDLE PLATE
1. Raise presser foot (you do not need to
remove it).
№
Turn hand wheel toward you until needle
is in its highest position.
3. Open slide plate.
Place thumb under right side of needle
plate ; lift it up and withdraw it to right.
Replace needle plate under clamping pin,
push it gently to the left, and press down
until it snaps into place.
O
29
6 SEWING THE PROFESSIONAL WAY
sewing knit and stretch fabrics
When you sew stretch fabrics, doubleknit, Remember to use a ball-point needle (Style
tricot and jersey, choose a stitch pattern that 7 2045) in the machine when you attach elastic
sews stretch into the seam. The table below or sew a synthetic knit or stretch fabric.
will help you make the right selection.
hints on sewing special fabrics
GUIDING AND LEATHER-LOOK VINYL
SUPPORTING FABRIC ,
e Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape
instead of pins or basting to hold seams,
Most fabrics of stretch and knit construction zippers, and hems in place for stitching.
need only to be guided in front of the presser
foot. Some fabrics, however, require support + Stitch with a long stitch (8 to 10 stitches per
while being stitched. inch). A short stitch may cut the fabric.
e For nylon tricot, ciré, panné velvet, and >* Sew with a steady, even pace and stitch
similar synthetic knits, apply gentle tension accurately. Seams cannot be ripped out
by holding fabric taut in front and back of without leaving needle marks in the fabric.
the presser foot as you sew. o The shiny side of some vinyls tends to stick
| ВЕ to metal surfaces. Use a strip of tissue
e For elasticized fabric, stretch lace, and paper between the fabric and metal machine
knits with an unusual amount of elas- surfaces to prevent this.
ticity, apply firm tension in front and back |
of the foot to stretch the seam as the stitches e Reinforce button and buttonhole areas with
are being placed. interfacing.
T The Even Feed foot, listed on page 51, is designed to aid in sewing hard-to-feed fabrics.
31
LEATHER-LOOK VINYL (Continued)
eo Topstitching holds seams and garment edges
smooth and flat and adds a decorative note.
e For sharp points on collars and lapels, take
one or two stitches diagonally across the
point to allow enough space to smoothly
enclose the seam edge.
32
Machine-worked buttonholes (as well as
bound buttonholes) can be made in ciré
fabric. Always use an interfacing and
make sure the closed plain zig-zag stitches
do not cut the fabric.
VELVET AND VELVETEEN
Mark and baste with silk thread.
Use a Style # 2020, size 11 needle, and a
fine thread for seaming. ‘‘A’’ silk or nylon
thread is recommended for velvet.
Always stitch in the direction of the nap.
Pin or hand-baste seams and sew under
gentle tension by holding fabric slightly
taut in front and back of needle. Extra-long
DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur) (Continued)
34
As seam 1$ stitched, smooth pile away
from seam allowance with a darning needle
or embroidery pin.
After stitching seams with a 5/8-inch seam
allowance, use small hand scissors to
shear pile from entire seam allowance to
reduce bulk.
Stitch 1/4-inch pre-shrunk tape into neckline
and shoulder seams for stability and rein-
forcement.
Leather and leather-look fabrics comple-
ment fur fabrics. Use them for bound
buttonholes and easy button loops.
Coat hems are less bulky if narrow and
finished with a three-inch fabric facing or
grosgrain ribbon.
Slash through the center fold of darts and
CIRE (Wet-Look Taffeta and Tricot)
Do not use pins in any area of the garment
that will be visible when completed.
Use masking tape or zipper adhesive tape
instead of pins or basting to hold seams,
zippers, and hems in place for stitching.
Stitch accurately; seams cannot be ripped
out because needle marks remain in fabric.
Sew seams under gentle tension by holding
fabric slightly taut at front and back of
needle.
Stitch ciré taffeta with a fairly long stitch
(8 to 10 straight stitches per inch) and use
an enclosed edge finish for seams and
ems.
Stitch ciré knits with a medium-length
stitch (12 straight stitches per inch) and use
a fine ball-point needle.
straight seams may be machine-basted with
a long, wide, plain zig-zag stitch.
To sew panné velvet, use a ball-point needle
and a shorter-than-normal stitch length
(12 to 15 straight stitches per inch).
DEEP-PILE FABRICS (Fake Fur)
Pin, rather than baste, seams. Place pins
at short intervals at right angles to the
seam-line. Pins with colored heads are
easier to see and remove.
Sew in direction of nap.
Stitch with a fairly long machine stitch
(8 to 10 straight stitches per inch) and use
cotton wrapped synthetic thread in a size 14
or 16, Style 7 2020 needle.
33
finger-press open, or stitch with a narrow,
plain zig-zag stitch and trim away excess
fabric after stitching.
buttons and buttonholes
BUTTONS
Pattern Selector: = Plain Zig-Zag
Needle Position: de Left
Stitch Width: See below
Raising Plate (See page 28)
Special Purpose or General Purpose Foot
Flat buttons can be sewn on by machine using
the plain zig-zag stitch. Insert raising plate
under needle plate and attach special purpose
or general purpose foot. Set stitch width
selector at | for straight stitching and needle
position at JL. (left).
Place button under presser foot and lower
needle into left hole. Lower foot. Turn hand
wheel toward you until needle is above foot.
Move stitch width selector to a medium-wide
BUTTONHOLES
e Pattern Selector: E Plain Zig-Zag
e Needle Position: da Left
eo Stitch Width: See illustrations
e Stitch Length: Above A (Fine Area)
e General Purpose Needle Plate
e Special Purpose Foot
Make a test buttonhole on a sample of your
fabric. Be sure to duplicate the thickness of
the garment and include interfacing if appro-
priate. |
Stitch Width Settings
Use two stitch width settings: one for side
stitching and one for bar tacks.
36
Bar Tack: Adjust stitch width selector
for bar tacks and take at least six stitches.
~ Stop at point D.
Side Stitching: Readjust stitch width
selector for side stitching, making
certain that stitching does not overlap
other row of side stitching (to ensure
correct cutting space). Complete work
to point E. Leave needle in fabric.
Final Bar Tack: Adjust stitch width
selector for bar tacks, and take at least
six stitches ending at point F.
Fastening Stitch: To secure stitching,
move stitch width selector to : and
take three stitches. Remove work, draw
threads to underside, fasten and trim.
Cut opening for button with sharp
scissors.
zig-zag setting and continue to turn hand wheel
until needle is above right hole in button.
Increase or decrease stitch width setting to suit
hole-spacing of button. Take six or more zig-
zag stitches to attach button and end with
needle on left side. Move stitch width selector
to | and take a few stitches in left hole of
button to fasten threads.
Button Sewing
For best results, Button Sewing Foot No. 161613
is recommended (see page 51).
35
Buttonhole Length
The length of the opening depends on the
diameter and thickness of the button. To
find the right length, cut a small slit in a scrap
of your fabric and gradually enlarge it until the
button slips through easily. Add at least
1/8 inch (1/16 inch for each bar tack), and
mark the fabric.
Procedure:
Place work under needle, aligning center
marking of buttonhole with slot in the presser
foot.
Side Stitching: Position needle in fabric
at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end of
marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B.
Raise foot and pivot work on needle. Lower
foot. Take one stitch without changing width
setting, bringing work to point C.
darning
Worn or torn spots on children's clothes, knits,
and household linens can be darned quickly
and easily with little practice.
e Stitch Width: | Straight Stitch
e Needle Position: a» Center
e Stitch Length: A (Fine Area)
e Raising Plate (See page 28)
e No Presser Foot, Presser Bar Lowered
e Moderate Machine Speed
38
zippers
At the notions counter in your Singer Sewing
Center, you will find many different kinds of
zippers, one of which will be just right for whatever
you want to sew. The zipper package will contain
easy-to-follow instructions for inserting the zipper.
And, with the zipper foot, you will find it easy to
form an even line of stitching close to the Zipper.
See instructions for attaching the zipper foot on
the following page.
CORDED SEAMS
The corded seam is a professional treatment
for
slipcovers, children's clothes, blouses
and lingerie. To make a corded seam, make
the welting first (or buy it ready-made at a
notions counter), then stitch it into the seam.
For both steps, use the zipper foot to place
the stitching close to the cord.
40
1. Trim ragged edges from area to be darned,
and center worn section in embroidery hoop.
2. Position work under needle; lower presser
bar to engage tension.
3. Hold needle thread loosely with left hand,
turn hand wheel over, and draw bobbin
thread up through fabric. Hold both thread
ends and lower needle into fabric.
4, Outline area to be darned with running
stitches for reinforcement. |
5. Stitch across opening, moving hoop under
needle at slight angle from lower left to
upper right. When opening is filled, cover
area with crosswise lines of stitching.
This method of controlling fabric movement
with an embroidery hoop may be used to do
embroidery or monogramming with the zig-
zag stitch.
NOTE: For extra control or darning without
an embroidery hoop, the use of the Darning
and Embroidery Foot is recommended. (See
page 51).
Zipper Insertion
Attaching the Zipper Foot:
eo Adjust stitch width selector to straight stitch
position.
When the zipper is to the right of the needie:
e Move spacer on zipper foot to /eft, to allow
shank to enter right side of foot, so that
needle will enter right notch in foot.
When the zipper is to the /eft ot the needle:
e Move spacer on zipper foot to right, to allow
shank to enter /eft side of foot, so that
needle will enter /eft notch in foot.
(The zipper foot is snapped on to shank as
instructed on page 27).
using the plain zig-zag stitch
e Blanket e Bar Tacks
Binding | ee . Stitch
Stitch = Width
Width = Needle
еее 1 Position ==
osition i
Stitch
Stitch Length = FINE
Length 6-12
General Purpose
General Purpose Foot
Foot
e Applique e Lingerie Seam
Stitch . Stitch |
Width | and? Wien | and 3
Needle Needle
Position «= Position oe
Stitch Stitch
A FIN Ie
Length = Е Length 0
Special Purpose General Purpose
Foot Foot
41
using the elastic stretch stitch
e Plain Stretch
Seam e Overedged
Stretch Seam
Stitch | Stitch
Width (Blue Line itc —
idth (Blue Line) Width =
Needle
Position == Needle 1
Stitch Position
Length 15-20 Stitch 15-90
Length
General Purpose
Foot General Purpose
oot
e Attaching Ribbing но
Stitch = e Seam Edge Finish
Width = Stitch = =
Needle Width =
Position "= Needle м
Stitch osition
Length 15-20 Stitch 49-20
General Purpose Length
Foot General Purpose
42 Foot
. . . . NA A A AÀ A À /
using the multi-stitch zig-zag VAVAVAVAVAVAY
e Attaching e Mendinga
Elastic Tear
Stitch — Stitch —
width É Width = £
Need!
Position + Be a
Sth Position
itc i
20 Stitch
Length Length 20
General Purpose General Purpose
Foot
o Applying Facing e Darts in
Finish Interfacing
Stitch == Stitch =
Width = Width =
Needle Needle 1!
Position == Position
Stitch
Length 8-20 Length 20
General Purpose Generai Purpose
Foot Foot
43
using the blindstitch
VVVVVV
e Blindstitch Seam Ed
Hem - 9
nem _ | Finish
Width 3 = = Stitch = =
Wi =
Needle on Of de N po
Position Positio a
Stitch te ue
Length 10-15 stitch 8-15
General Purpose oho
Foot
General Purpose
Foot
e Ladder shell
Seam e
Stitch = Edging
Width = Stitch $ = =
Needle м Me =
Position peed
Stitch osition “*
Length 10-15 Stitch
General Purpose
Foot
Length 12-20
General Purpose
44 Foot
{ CARING FOR YOUR SEWING MACHINE
cleaning the machine
Your machine will serve you perfectly for many
years if you take a few moments of your time
to keep it clean. How often you will need to
clean the machine will depend on how often
you use it.
CAUTION: Before cleaning the machine, dis-
connect power-line plug from your electrical
outlet.
Remove lint or fluff from exposed parts.
With a soft cloth, clean areas indicated in
illustration at right.
e If there is excessive lint in the bobbin case
area, remove bobbin case for cleaning. See
page 47.
e To clean the machine surface, use a mild
liquid dishwashing detergent in the same
strength as used for dishes. Dry with damp
cloth so that a thin film is left on the surfaces.
Do not use abrasive or solvent cleaners.
CLEANING THE MACHINE (Continued)
Remove face plate as instructed below and 2. Replace face plate by sliding top edge
use a small brush to clean area behind face up under edge of top cover; replace and
plate. tighten screw A.
Remove needle plate (see page 29) and, using
a small brush, clean area under needle plate
and slide plate.
After cleaning, apply SINGER* oil at points
indicated. SINGER oil is specially prepared
and does not contain harmful deposits that can
interfere with the smooth action of precision
parts.
removing and replacing
face plate
CAUTION: Before removing face plate, discon-
nect power-line plug from electrical outlet.
1. Loosen and remove screw A; remove face
plate by sliding it downward.
46
removing and replacing bobbin case
Removing
~~ Bobbin Case
CAUTION: Before removing bobbin case disconnect
power-line plug from electrical outlet.
1.
Raise needle to its highest position.
| Bobbin Case
Bobbin Case 7
— Holder. |
will go. Lift out bobbin case.
. To replace bobbin case:
Insert bobbin case with a back-and-forth motion
2. Open slide plate all the way and remove needle so that the front of the case is under the position
plate as instructed on page 29. plate as illustrated. Turn holder all the way for-
3. Remove bobbin. ward to lock bobbin case in position.
To remove bobbin case: . Replace needle plate and close slide plate.
4.
Turn bobbin case holder to back as far as it
47
changing light bulb
This machine is
designed to use
a 15 watt light
bulb.
Unlock
and at the same time turn bulb over in direc-
tion shown to unlock the bulb pins.
Replacing Bulb. Press new bulb into socket,
with bulb pins entering slots of socket, and
turn it over in direction shown to lock bulb in
position. Push entire assembly up until it
snaps in position.
Make sure you have disconnected power-line
plug from electrical outlet.
Removing Bulb. With thumb of right hand
push in and down on tab of light lens and
lower the light bracket. Do not attempt to
unscrew the bulb. Press it up into the socket
48
replacing slide plate
Should the slide plate accidentally become
disengaged, replace it as follows:
eo Raise presser foot and make sure needle
is in its highest position.
e With a small screwdriver, lift each end of
spring into each of side grooves on under-
side of the plate. Draw plate gently toward
you and fully engage the spring. Close plate.
у
replacing end cover
eo Make sure presser-foot lifter is lowered.
e Slide end cover on machine with bottom
edge of cover located on grooves of machine
bed.
e Gently push cover toward right until both
cover tabs enter slots provided in machine.
Close hinged flap.
49
performance checklist
REMEMBER TO...
e Turn on power and light switch.
IF THREAD BREAKS...
e Is the machine properly threaded?
e Turn hand wheel toward you to position needle e Is the bobbin case properly inserted and
and take-up lever.
threaded ?
e Start and finish sewing with the take-up in its ® |s the bobbin-case area free of lint and loose
highest position.
e Test stitch on a fabric sample before starting,
a sewing job.
e Replace bent or burred needie.
thread ends?
Is the bobbin or bobbin case damaged?
Is the needle straight and securely tightened in
clamp ?
Is the thread suitable for size of needle?
e
o Use a Style # 2045 Ball-Point (yellow band) e ls the thread free of uneven places and knots?
needle when sewing synthetic knits, spandex, =e Is the thread unwinding freely from spool?
or elastics. :
e Is the needie-thread tension light enough?
e Make sure needle is out of fabric or above needle eo Is the needle plate, needle hole, or presser foot
plate .before adjusting selectors.
damaged?
Enjoy Sewing!
If you have any questions, please write to:
Department of Sewing Education
The Singer Company
30 Rockefeller Plaza, New York, N.Y. 10020
50
FASHION AIDS
special accessories for special jobs
The Fashion Aids listed below are designed selection of accessories that is available at
to increase the versatility of your sewing your local Singer Sewing Center.
machine.
They are part of the complete
Professional* Buttonholer ...... No. 102878 e Ruffler ....................... No. 86742
Deluxe Monogrammer ......... No. 171278 e Binder Foot ................... No. 81245
Even Feed Foot ................ No. 507806 e Hemmer Foot ................. No. 161671
Button Sewing Foot ........... No. 161613 e Darning & Embroidery Foot... ... No. 161876
Seam Guide ........... aaa No. 161172 ee Gathering Foot ............... No. 161659
Straight Stitch Foot ........... ‚ №. 153267 e Edge Stitcher ................. No. 36865
Straight Stitch Needle Plate.... No. 171391
51
INDEX
Page Page
Accessories .........eeeereorore reee vedorerer. 24 Needle Plates ........... cco. 26, 28
Applique 110201000004 44e eee ae ere ee 41 Changing..................emeeme.. aaa 29
Blindstitch Hems ............ i iin, 44 Needle Position Selector ........................ 21
24 Oiling .................. ee 000 0 45
Bobbin ........ RR ee Pin Basting ............. 200000000 a 16
Raising Bobbin Thread ....................... 12 Power and Light Switch. ....... ................. 5
Ma к кекеееекнокаоеаеоон неона еонеооооо 8, 9 Presser Foot Changing. ................00000 0... 27
Bobbin Case : Principal Parts .......... iii A 2
Removing and Replacing ...................... 47 Reverse-Stitch Push Button ..................... 14
Threading ............ 2.0000. 0800rer ie eee 10 Satin Stitching ...............000000,00reei ae. 23
36 Seams, Sewing .... ci Ds 16
Buttonholes .........0000000rr 46H 35 Special Fabrics, Sewing ........................ 31
Buttons coo rre Special Purpose Foot ...00e 26
Checklist .......0.00000000 HE Зо Stitch Length ... 11111111 LL aa nana ana ee 14
Cleaning ...... Lecccee ca eee ee tte 30 Stitch Pattern Selector ............... 2.0.0.0... 20
Darning ...... Deere Stitch Width Selector ....... e. 21
Elastic, Attaching .................... oon, 43 Straight Stitching .. ...... 13
Electrical Speed Controller ...................... 4 Thread Tension, Adjusting 15, 23
Fabric, Thread and Needle Table ............... 6 Threading the Bobbin Case and Needle..... 10, 11
Fashion Aids ........0000004 04444 51 Zig-Zag Stitching ............. i, 20
Guiding and Supporting Fabric ............... 18, 31 Needle Position 1 91
Knit Fabrics Sewing...........00000000 HEHE 30 Satin Stitching rre reee 23
Light Bulb, Changing...............ee=eee=.... у Stitch Pattern Selector ................. 20
Mending ...........eeeereeeerreeereeerer na 3 Stitch Length............ erre 22
à (1-10 | (A 24 Stitch Width ........ 4 a aa a 4 a eee a 00 21
Changing....... aaa aaoo io oo rec. 24 Zipper Foot ........... 000000000 As 26, 40
Threading ...........e0.2.. cli ee 11 Zippers PP 39
52