Polaris 2008 RANGER RZR, 2008 RZR, rzr 800 2008 Service Manual

GENERAL INFORMATION

CHAPTER 1

1


MODEL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2

MODEL IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2

ENGINE DESIGNATION NUMBER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2

VIN IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2

ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER LOCATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.2

UNIT SERIAL NUMBER (VIN) LOCATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.3

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.4

MODEL: 2008 RANGER RAZR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.5

VEHICLE INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6

PUBLICATION NUMBERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6

PAINT CODES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6

REPLACEMENT KEYS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6

SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.6

MISC. SPECIFICATIONS AND CHARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7

CONVERSION TABLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.7

STANDARD TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.8

SAE TAP / DRILL SIZES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9

METRIC TAP / DRILL SIZES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9

DECIMAL EQUIVALENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9

GLOSSARY OF TERMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.10

1.1


MODEL INFORMATION

Model Identification

The machine model number must be used with any correspondence regarding warranty or service.

Machine Model Number Identification

R 0 8 V H 7 6 A D

Model Year

Designation

Basic Chassis

Designation

Emissions &

Model Option

Engine Designation

Engine Designation Number

EH076OLE021 ..................................................... Twin Cylinder, Liquid Cooled, OHV 4 Stroke, Electric Start

VIN Identification

World

Mfg. ID Vehicle Description

Vehicle Identifier

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

4 X A V H 7 6 A * 8 P 0 0 0 0 0 0

Engine

Model

Year

Body Style

Emissions

Powertrain

Plant No.

Check Digit

Individual Serial No.

* This could be either

a number or a letter

Engine Serial Number Location

Whenever corresponding about an engine, be sure to refer to the engine model number and serial number. This information can be found on the sticker applied to the cylinder head on the side of engine.

1.2


Unit Serial Number (VIN) Location

The machine model number and serial number (VIN) are important for vehicle identification. The VIN number (A) is stamped on a portion of the LH frame rail close to the front wheel. The model and VIN numbers are also located on a sticker under the hood (B).

1

A

B

B

A

1.3


GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL: 2008 RANGER RZR

MODEL NUMBER: R08VH76AD, AG

ENGINE MODEL: EH076OLE021

Category

Length

Width

Height

Wheel Base

Ground Clearance

Dry Weight

Gross Vehicle Weight

Front Storage Capacity

Cargo Box Dimension

Cargo Box Capacity

Maximum Weight

Capacity (Payload)

Hitch Towing Capacity

Hitch Tongue Capacity

Dimension / Capacity

102 in. / 259 cm

50 in. / 127 cm

68.5 in. / 174 cm

77 in. / 196 cm

10 in. / 25.4 cm

945 lbs. / 429 kg

1727 lbs. / 783 kg

25 lbs. / 11.3 kg

42 in. x 22 in. / 107 cm x 56 cm

300 lbs. / 136 kg

740 lbs. / 336.4 kg

(Includes rider(s), cargo, and accessories)

1500 lbs. / 680 kg

150 lbs. / 68 kg

TOP

FRONT

REAR

SIDE

1.4


MODEL: 2008 RANGER RZR

MODEL NUMBER: R08VH76AD, AG

ENGINE MODEL: EH076OLE021

Platform

Engine

Polaris Domestic Twin Cylinder,

Liquid Cooled, 4-Stroke

Engine Model Number

Engine Displacement

Number of Cylinders

Bore & Stroke (mm)

Compression Ratio

Compression Pressure

Engine Idle Speed

Engine Max Operating RPM

Lubrication

Oil Requirements

Oil Capacity

Coolant Capacity

EH076OLE021

760cc

2

80 x 76.5 mm

10:1

150-200 psi

1150 ± 100 RPM

6500 ± 200 RPM

Pressurized Wet Sump

0W-40

2 qts. / 1.9 liters

4.8 qts. / 4.5 liters

Overheat Warning

Exhaust System

Instrument Cluster Indicator

Single Pipe / Silencer

Fuel System

Fuel System Type

Fuel Delivery

Fuel Pressure

Bosch Electronic Fuel Injection

Electronic Fuel Pump (in tank)

39 psi

Fuel Filters

Fuel Capacity / Requirement

See Chapter 4

7 gal. (26.5 liters)

87 Octane (minimum)

Alternator Max Output

Lights: Main Headlights

Electrical

500 watts @ 3000 RPM

2 - Dual Beam 55 watts / Halogen

Tail / Brake

Worklights

Starting System

Ignition System

Ignition Timing

Spark plug / Gap

Battery

2 - 27 watts

2 - 13 watts

Electric Start

Bosch EFI (ECU Controlled)

13° BTDC @ 1200 RPM

Champion RC7YC3 /

.035 in. (0.9 mm)

Yuasa YTX20HL /

18 Amp Hr. / 310 CCA / 12 Volt

Instrument Type

DC Outlet

Relays

Circuit Breaker

Fuses

Analog Speedometer with Multifunction LCD

Standard 12 V

EFI / Fan

Fan Motor: 20 Amp

Chassis: 20 Amp

EFI: 15 Amp

Lights: 15 Amp

Accessory: 15 Amp

Speedo/ECU: 5 Amp

Transmission Type

Gear Ratio: Front / Rear

High

Low

Rev

Drive Ratio - Front

Drivetrain

Polaris Automatic PVT

3.14:1

8.71:1

5.94:1

3.82:1

Drive Ratio - Final

Shift Type

Front Gearcase Oil Requirements

Transmission Oil Requirements

Main Gearcase

Transmission Oil Requirements

Transfer Case

3.70:1

In Line Shift - H / L / N / R / P

Polaris Demand Drive LT

Premium Fluid

6.75 oz. (200 ml)

Polaris High Performance AGL

24 oz. (710 ml)

Polaris High Performance AGL

14 oz. (414 ml)

Rear Gearcase Oil Requirements

Polaris Premium ADF

18 oz. (532 ml)

3211113 Belt

Steering / Suspension

Front Suspension Independent Double A-arm

Front Travel

Rear Suspension

Rear Travel

9 in. / 23 cm

Independent Double A-arm

9.5 in. / 24 cm

Shock Preload Adjustment

Front / Rear

Toe Out

Cam Adjustment

1/8-1/4 in. / 3-6.35 mm

Wheels / Brakes

Front Wheel Size

Front Tire Size

Rear Wheel Size

Rear Tire Size

Tire Air Pressure - Front / Rear

Brake - Front / Rear

Brake Fluid

12 x 6 / 10 gauge

Maxxis / 25 x 8 R12

12 x 8 / 10 gauge

Maxxis / 25 x 10 R12

8 psi (55 kPa)

Foot Actuated - 4 Wheel

Hydraulic Disc

DOT 4

CLUTCH CHART

Altitude

Meters

(Feet)

0-1500

(0-5000)

1500-3700

(5000 - 12000)

Shift Weight Drive Spring

20-62

(5631700)

20-58

(5631216)

Blue/Red

(7043199)

Blue/Red

(7043199)

Driven

Spring

Yellow

(3234452)

Yellow

(3234452)

1

1.5


VEHICLE INFORMATION

Publication Numbers

Model

2008 RANGER RZR, Red

2008 RANGER RZR, Green

Model No.

R08VH76AD

R08VH76AG

Owner’s Manual PN

9921181

9921181

Parts Manual PN

9921207

9921207

NOTE: When ordering service parts be sure to use the correct parts manual.

NOTE: Polaris factory publications can be found at www.polarisindustries.com or purchased from www.purepolaris.com.

Paint Codes

Painted Part

Frame / Bumpers / Racks

Frame / Bumpers / Racks

Plastic - Hood / Dash / Fenders

Plastic - Hood / Dash / Fenders

Color Description

Gloss Black

Matte Black

Indy Red

Sage Brush Green Metallic

Polaris Number

P-067

P-458

P-293

P-498

Replacement Keys

Replacement keys can be made from the original key. To identify which series the key is, take the first two digits on the original key and refer to the chart to the right for the proper part number.

KEY COVER

P/N 5533534

Key Series

Number

Series#

20

21

22

23

27

28

31

32

67

68

Part Number

4010278

4010278

4010321

4010321

4010321

4010321

4110141

4110148

4010278

4010278

SPECIAL TOOLS

Special tools may be required while servicing this vehicle. Some of the tools listed or depicted are mandatory, while other tools maybe substituted with a similar tool, if available. Polaris recommends the use of Polaris Special Tools when servicing any Polaris product. Dealers may order special tools through Polaris’ official tool supplier, SPX Corporation, 1-800-328-6657.

1.6

MISC. SPECIFICATIONS AND CHARTS

Conversion Table


1

°C to °F:

9/5

(°C + 32) = °F °F to °C:

5/9

(°F - 32) = °C

1.7


Standard Torque Specifications

The following torque specifications are to be used only as a general guideline. There are exceptions in the steering, suspension, and engine areas. Always consult the exploded views or each manual section for torque values of fasteners before using standard torque.

1.8

SAE Tap / Drill Sizes


Decimal Equivalents

1

Metric Tap / Drill Sizes

1.9


Glossary of Terms

ABDC: After bottom dead center.

ACV: Alternating current voltage.

Alternator: Electrical generator producing voltage alternating current.

ATDC: After top dead center.

BBDC: Before bottom dead center.

BDC: Bottom dead center.

BTDC: Before top dead center.

CC: Cubic centimeters.

Center Distance: Distance between center of crankshaft and center of driven clutch shaft.

Chain Pitch: Distance between chain link pins (No. 35 = 3/8" or 1 cm). Polaris measures chain length in number of pitches.

CI: Cubic inches.

Clutch Buttons: Plastic bushings which aid rotation of the movable sheave in the drive and driven clutch.

Clutch Offset: Drive and driven clutches are offset so that drive belt will stay nearly straight as it moves along the clutch face.

Clutch Weights: Three levers in the drive clutch which relative to their weight, profile and engine RPM cause the drive clutch to close and grip the drive belt.

Crankshaft Run-Out: Run-out or "bend" of crankshaft measured with a dial indicator while crankshaft is supported between centers on V blocks or resting in crankcase. Measure at various points especially at PTO.

DCV: Direct current voltage

CVT: Centrifugal Variable Transmission (Drive Clutch System)

DCV: Direct current voltage.

Dial Bore Gauge: A cylinder measuring instrument which uses a dial indicator. Good for showing taper and out-of-round in the cylinder bore.

Electrical Open: Open circuit. An electrical circuit which isn't complete.

Electrical Short: Short circuit. An electrical circuit which is completed before the current reaches the intended load. (i.e. a bare wire touching the chassis).

End Seals: Rubber seals at each end of the crankshaft.

Engagement RPM: Engine RPM at which the drive clutch engages to make contact with the drive belt.

ft.: Foot/feet.

Foot Pound: Ft. lb. A force of one pound at the end of a lever one foot in length, applied in a rotational direction.

g: Gram. Unit of weight in the metric system.

gal.: Gallon.

ID: Inside diameter.

in.: Inch/inches.

Inch Pound: In. lb. 12 in. lbs. = 1 ft. lb.

kg/cm²: Kilograms per square centimeter.

kg-m: Kilogram meters.

Kilogram/meter: A force of one kilogram at the end of a lever one meter in length, applied in a rotational direction.

l or ltr: Liter.

lbs/in²: Pounds per square inch.

Left or Right Side: Always referred to based on normal operating position of the driver.

m: Meter/meters.

Mag: Magneto.

Magnetic Induction: As a conductor (coil) is moved through a magnetic field, a voltage will be generated in the windings.

Mechanical energy is converted to electrical energy in the stator.

mi.: Mile/miles.

mm: Millimeter. Unit of length in the metric system. 1 mm = approximately .040".

Nm: Newton meters.

OD: Outside diameter.

Ohm: The unit of electrical resistance opposing current flow.

oz.: Ounce/ounces.

Piston Clearance: Total distance between piston and cylinder wall.

psi.: Pounds per square inch.

PTO: Power take off.

PVT: Polaris Variable Transmission (Drive Clutch system) qt.: Quart/quarts.

Regulator: Voltage regulator. Regulates battery charging system output at approx. 14.5 DCV as engine RPM increases.

Reservoir Tank: The fill tank in the liquid cooling system.

Resistance: In the mechanical sense, friction or load. In the electrical sense, ohms, resulting in energy conversion to heat.

RPM: Revolutions per minute.

Seized Piston: Galling of the sides of a piston. Usually there is a transfer of aluminum from the piston onto the cylinder wall.

Possible causes: 1) improper lubrication; 2) excessive temperatures; 3) insufficient piston clearance; 4) stuck piston rings.

Stator Plate: The plate mounted under the flywheel supporting the battery charging coils.

TDC: Top dead center. Piston's most outward travel from crankshaft.

Volt: The unit of measure for electrical pressure of electromotive force. Measured by a voltmeter in parallel with the circuit.

Watt: Unit of electrical power. Watts = amperes x volts.

WOT: Wide open throttle.

1.10

MAINTENANCE

CHAPTER 2

MAINTENANCE

2 PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3

BREAK-IN PERIOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3

MAINTENANCE CHART KEY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.3

PRE-RIDE - 25 HOUR MAINTENANCE INTERVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4

50 - 300 HOUR MAINTENANCE INTERVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.5

COMPONENT INSPECTION / SERVICE LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.6

FRONT AND REAR VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.6

RH AND LH SIDE VIEWS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.7

LUBRICANTS / SERVICE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8

POLARIS LUBRICANTS, MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE PRODUCTS . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.8

MAINTENANCE REFERENCES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.9

GENERAL VEHICLE INSPECTION AND MAINTENANCE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.10

PRE-RIDE / DAILY INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.10

FRAME, NUTS, BOLTS, AND FASTENERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.10

SHIFT CABLE INSPECTION / ADJUSTMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.10

FUEL SYSTEM AND AIR INTAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.11

FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.11

FUEL LINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.11

FUEL PUMP / FUEL FILTERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.11

VENT LINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.11

THROTTLE PEDAL INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.12

THROTTLE FREEPLAY ADJUSTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.12

AIR FILTER SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.12

ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.14

ENGINE OIL LEVEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.14

ENGINE OIL AND FILTER SERVICE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.15

ENGINE BREATHER HOSE INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.16

ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION MOUNT LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.16

COMPRESSION AND LEAKDOWN TEST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.16

EXHAUST - SPARK ARRESTOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.16

TRANSMISSION AND GEARCASES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.17

TRANSMISSION / GEARCASE SPECIFICATION CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.17

TRANSMISSION LUBRICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.17

FRONT GEARCASE LUBRICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.19

REAR GEARCASE LUBRICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.20

COOLING SYSTEM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.21

COOLING SYSTEM OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.21

COOLANT LEVEL INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.21

COOLANT STRENGTH / TYPE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.21

COOLING SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.22

COOLING SYSTEM HOSES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.22

RADIATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.22

COOLANT DRAIN / RADIATOR REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.22

FINAL DRIVE / WHEEL AND TIRE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.23

WHEEL, HUB, AND SPINDLE TORQUE TABLE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.23

WHEEL REMOVAL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.23

WHEEL INSTALLATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.23

TIRE INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.24

TIRE PRESSURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.24

DRIVE SHAFT BOOT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.24

2.1

MAINTENANCE

ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.25

BATTERY MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.25

BATTERY REMOVAL. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.25

BATTERY INSTALLATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.25

BATTERY OFF SEASON STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.26

BATTERY CHARGING (SEALED BATTERY) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.26

SPARK PLUG SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.26

ENGINE TO FRAME GROUND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.27

STEERING AND SUSPENSION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.27

STEERING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.27

STEERING WHEEL INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.27

STEERING INSPECTION / TIE ROD ENDS AND HUBS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.28

TOE ALIGNMENT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.28

TOE ADJUSTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.29

SUSPENSION SPRING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.29

BRAKE SYSTEM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30

BRAKE FLUID INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30

BRAKE PAD / DISC INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30

BRAKE HOSE AND FITTING INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.30

2.2

MAINTENANCE

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART

Periodic Maintenance Overview

Inspection, adjustment and lubrication of important components are explained in the periodic maintenance chart.

Inspect, clean, lubricate, adjust and replace parts as necessary. When inspection reveals the need for replacement parts, use genuine Pure Polaris parts available from your Polaris dealer.

NOTE: Service and adjustments are critical. If you’re not familiar with safe service and adjustment procedures, have a qualified dealer perform these operations.

Maintenance intervals in the following chart are based upon average riding conditions and an average vehicle speed of approximately

10 miles per hour. Vehicles subjected to severe use must be inspected and serviced more frequently.

Severe Use Definition

• Frequent immersion in mud, water or sand

• Racing or race-style high RPM use

• Prolonged low speed, heavy load operation

• Extended idle

• Short trip cold weather operation

Pay special attention to the oil level. A rise in oil level during cold weather can indicate contaminants collecting in the oil sump or crankcase. Change oil immediately if the oil level begins to rise. Monitor the oil level, and if it continues to rise, discontinue use and determine the cause or see your dealer.

2

Break-In Period

The break-in period consists of the first 25 hours of operation, or the time it takes to use 14 gallons (53 liters) of fuel. Careful treatment of a new engine and drive components will result in more efficient performance and longer life for these components.

• Drive vehicle slowly at first while varying the throttle position. Do not operate at sustained idle.

• Pull only light loads.

• Perform regular checks on fluid levels and other areas outlined on the daily pre-ride inspection checklist.

• Change both the engine oil and filter after 25 hours or one month.

• See “Owner’s Manual” for additional break-in information.

Maintenance Chart Key

The following symbols denote potential items to be aware of during maintenance:

= CAUTION: Due to the nature of these adjustments, it is recommended this service be performed by an authorized Polaris dealer.

= SEVERE USE ITEM: See information provided above.

E = Emission Control System Service (California).

NOTE: Inspection may reveal the need for replacement parts. Always use genuine Polaris parts.

WARNING

Improperly performing the procedures marked could result in component failure and lead to serious injury or death.

Have an authorized Polaris dealer perform these services.

2.3

MAINTENANCE

Pre-Ride - 25 Hour Maintenance Interval

Item

Steering

Front Suspension

Rear Suspension

Tires

Brake Fluid Level

Brake Pedal Travel

Brake Systems

Wheels / Fasteners

Frame Fasteners

E

Engine Oil Level

E

Air Filter / Pre-Filter

Coolant Level

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

Hours

-

-

Maintenance Interval

(whichever comes first)

Calendar

Pre-Ride

Miles

(KM)

-

Pre-Ride -

-

Pre-Ride

Pre-Ride

Pre-Ride

Pre-Ride

Pre-Ride

Pre-Ride

Pre-Ride

Pre-Ride

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

-

Remarks

Make adjustments as needed.

See Pre-Ride Checklist on Page 2.9.

Head Lamp / Tail Lamp

E

Air Filter,

Main Element

Brake Pad Wear

E

E

Battery

Front Gearcase Oil

(Demand Drive Fluid LT)

Rear Gearcase Oil

(ATV Angle Drive Fluid)

Transmission - Main

(AGL Gearcase Lubricant)

Transmission - Transfer

(AGL Gearcase Lubricant)

Engine Breather

Filter (if equipped)

Engine Oil Change

(Break-In Period)

-

-

-

-

10 H

25 H

25 H

25 H

25 H

25 H

25 H

25 H

Pre-Ride

Daily

Daily

Weekly

Monthly

Monthly

Monthly

Monthly

Monthly

Monthly

Monthly

1 M

-

-

-

-

100 (160) Inspect periodically

250 (400) Check terminals; clean; test

250 (400) Inspect level; change yearly

250 (400)

250 (400)

250 (400)

250 (400)

250 (400)

Inspect; clean often; replace as needed

Check level daily, change coolant every 2 years

Check operation; apply dielectric grease if replacing

Inspect; replace as needed

Inspect level; change yearly



Inspect; replace if necessary

Perform a break-in oil change at one month

Perform these procedures more often for vehicles subjected to severe use.

E Emission Control System Service (California)


2.4

MAINTENANCE

50 - 300 Hour Maintenance Interval

E

E

E

E

E

Item

Throttle Cable / Throttle

Pedal

Throttle Body Air Intake

Ducts / Flange

General Lubrication

Shift Linkage

Steering

Front Suspension

Rear Suspension

Cooling System

Fuel System

Spark Plug

Engine Oil & Filter Change

Drive Belt

Radiator

Cooling Hoses

Engine Assembly Mounts

Exhaust Muffler / Pipe

Wiring

Clutches (Drive and Driven) 100 H

Front Wheel Bearings 100 H

Brake Fluid

Spark Arrestor

200 H

300 H

Toe Adjustment

Headlight Aim

Hours

Maintenance Interval

(whichever comes first)

Calendar

Miles

(KM)

50 H

50 H

50 H

50 H

50 H

50 H

50 H

50 H

100 H

100 H

100 H

100 H

100 H

100 H

100 H

100 H

100 H

6 M

6 M

3 M

6 M

6 M

6 M

6 M

6 M

12 M

12 M

6 M

12 M

12 M

12 M

12 M

12 M

12 M

12 M

12 M

24 M

36 M

-

-

Remarks

300 (500)

Inspect; adjust; lubricate; replace if necessary

300 (500) Inspect ducts for proper sealing / air leaks

500 (800) Lubricate all fittings, pivots, cables, etc.

500 (800) Inspect, lubricate, adjust

500 (800) Lubricate

500 (800) Lubricate

500 (800) Lubricate

500 (800)

600 (1000)

Inspect coolant strength seasonally; pressure test system yearly

Check for leaks at tank cap, fuel line, fuel pump, and fuel rail.

Replace lines every two years.

600 (1000) Inspect; replace as needed

1000 (1600)

Perform a break-in oil change at 25 hours or one month / always replace oil filter when changing engine oil


1000 (1600) Inspect; clean external surfaces

1000 (1600) Inspect for leaks

1000 (1600) Inspect, torque to specification

1000 (1600) Inspect

1000 (1600)

1000 (1600) Inspect; clean; replace worn parts


2000 (3200)

Inspect for wear, routing, security; apply dielectric grease to connectors subjected to water, mud, etc.

Change every two years (DOT 4)

3000 (4800) Clean out

Inspect periodically; adjust when parts are replaced

Adjust as needed

Perform these procedures more often for vehicles subjected to severe use.

E Emission Control System Service (California)


2

2.5

MAINTENANCE

COMPONENT INSPECTION / SERVICE LOCATIONS

Front and Rear View

2.6

RH and LH Side Views

MAINTENANCE

2

2.7

MAINTENANCE

LUBRICANTS / SERVICE PRODUCTS

Polaris Lubricants, Maintenance and Service

Products

Part No.

Description

Engine Lubricant

2870791 Fogging Oil (12 oz. Aerosol)

2871281

Premium 4-Cycle Synthetic 0W-40

Engine Oil (Quart) (12 Count)

2871844

2871567


Engine Oil (Gallon) (4 Count)


Engine Oil (16 Gallon) (4-Cycle)

Gearcase / Transmission Lubricants

2873602

2873603

AGL - Synthetic ATV Gearcase Lubricant

(1 Qt.) (12 Count)


(1 Gal.) (4 Count)

2873604

2871653

2872276

2871654


(2.5 Gal.) (2 Count)

ATV Angle Drive Fluid

(8 oz.) (12 Count)


(2.5 Gal) (2 Count)

Premium Demand Drive Fluid LT

(1 Qt.) (12 Count)

2870465 Oil Pump for 1 Gallon Jug

Grease / Specialized Lubricants

2871312 Grease Gun Kit

2871322

Premium All Season Grease

(3 oz. cartridge) (24 Count)

2871423

Premium All Season Grease


2871460 Starter Drive Grease (12 Count)

2871515 Premium U-Joint Lube (3 oz.) (24 Count)

2871551 Premium U-Joint Lube (14 oz.) (10 Count)

2871329 Dielectric Grease (Nyogel™)

Coolant

2871323 60/40 Coolant (Gallon) (6 Count)

2871534 60/40 Coolant (Quart) (12 Count)

NOTE: Each item can be purchased separately at your local Polaris dealer.

Part No.

Description

Additives / Sealants / Thread Locking Agents / Misc.

2870585 Loctite™ Primer N, Aerosol, 25 g

2871956

2871949

2871950

Loctite™ Thread Sealant 565

(50 ml.) (6 Count)

Loctite™ Threadlock 242

(50 ml.) (10 Count)


(6 ml.) (12 Count)

2871951

2871952

2871953

2871954

2870584

2870587


(50 ml.) (10 Count)


(6 ml.) (12 Count)


(6 ml.) (12 Count)


(36 ml.) (6 Count)

Loctite™ 680-Retaining Compound

(10 ml.)

Loctite™ 518 Gasket Eliminator / Flange

Sealant (50 ml.) (10 Count)

2871326

Premium Carbon Clean

(12 oz.) (12 Count)

2870652 Fuel Stabilizer (16 oz.) (12 Count)

2871957

Black RTV Silicone Sealer

(3 oz. tube) (12 Count)

2871958

Black RTV Silicone Sealer


2872189 DOT 4 Brake Fluid (12 Count)

2871557 Crankcase Sealant, 3-Bond 1215 (5oz.)

2872893 Engine Degreaser (12oz.) (12 Count)

NOTE: The number count indicated by each part number in the table above indicates the number of units that are shipped with each order.

2.8

MAINTENANCE

MAINTENANCE REFERENCES

Item

Engine Oil

Engine Coolant

Brake Fluid

Transmission

(Main Gearcase)

Transmission

(Transfer Case)

Front Gearcase

Rear Gearcase

Prop Shaft

Control Arm Pivot

Bushings, FT / RR

Stabilizer Bar

Bushings, FT / RR

Ref.

Page 2.7

Page 2.6

Page 2.7

Page 2.7

Page 2.7

Page 2.7

Page 2.7

Page 2.7

Page 2.6

Page 2.7

Rec. Lube / Fluid

Premium 4-Cycle Synthetic

0W-40 (PN 2871281)

Polaris Antifreeze 60/40

(PN 2871534)

DOT 4 (PN 2872189)

Add oil to proper level on dipstick.

Method Frequency*

Change after 25 hrs, and then

6 months or 100 hours thereafter; Change more often in extremely dirty conditions, or short trip cold weather operation.

Fill recovery bottle between

MAX and MIN lines.

Fill as required. Change coolant every 2 years.

Fill reservoir between MAX and MIN lines.

Fill as required. Change brake fluid every 2 years.

Add lube to bottom of fill plug threads. 24 oz. (710 ml)

Change annually***

AGL Synthetic Gearcase

Lubricant (PN 2873602)

AGL Synthetic Gearcase

Lubricant (PN 2873602)

Premium Demand Drive

Fluid LT (PN 2876251)


(PN 2871653)

Polaris Premium U-Joint

Lube (PN 2871551)

Add lube to bottom of level check plug threads.

14 oz. (414 ml)

Drain completely and add specified quantity of lube.

6.75 oz. (200 ml)

Add lube to bottom of fill plug threads. 18 oz. (532 ml)

Locate fitting and grease with grease gun.

Change annually***

Change annually***

Change annually***

Semi-annually**

Polaris Premium All Season

Grease (PN 2871423)

Locate grease fittings on the upper and lower A-arms of the front and rear suspension and grease with grease gun.

(4) Front A-arms

(6) Rear A-arms

Semi-annually**

Polaris Premium All Season

Grease (PN 2871423)

Locate grease fittings on the front and rear stabilizer bars and grease with grease gun.

(2) Front Stabilizer Bar

(2) Rear Stabilizer Bar

Semi-annually**

* More often under severe use, such as operated in water or under severe loads.

**Semi-annually or 50 hours of operation (refer to Maintenance Schedule for additional information)

***Annually or 100 hours of operation (refer to Maintenance Schedule for additional information)

2

2.9

MAINTENANCE

GENERAL VEHICLE INSPECTION

AND MAINTENANCE

Pre-Ride / Daily Inspection

Perform the following pre-ride inspection daily, and when servicing the vehicle at each scheduled maintenance.

• Tires - check condition and pressures

• Fuel tank - fill to proper level

• All brakes - check operation and adjustment

• Throttle - check for free operation and closing

• Headlights/Taillights/Brakelights/Worklights - also check operation of all indicator lights and switches

• Engine stop switch - check for proper function

• Wheels - check for tightness of wheel nuts and axle nuts; check to be sure axle nuts are secured by cotter pins

• Air cleaner element - check for dirt; clean or replace

• Steering - check for free operation noting any unusual looseness in any area

• Loose parts - visually inspect vehicle for any damaged or loose nuts, bolts or fasteners

• Engine coolant - check for proper level at the recovery bottle

• Check all front and rear suspension components for wear or damage.

Shift Cable Inspection / Adjustment

Shift cable adjustment may be necessary if symptoms include:

• No AWD or gear position display on instrument cluster

• Ratcheting noise on deceleration

• Inability to engage into a gear

• Excessive gear clash (noise)

• Gear selector moving out of desired range

1.

Locate the shift cable in the rear LH wheel well area.

Clevis Pin

Shift Cable

Mount

Shift Cable Dust Boot

2.

Inspect shift cable, clevis pin, pivot bushings, and dust boot. Replace if worn or damaged.

3.

If adjustment is required, loosen the lower jam nut and pull the cable out of the mount to move the upper jam nut.

Upper

Jam Nut

Frame, Nuts, Bolts, and Fasteners

Periodically inspect the torque of all fasteners in accordance with the maintenance schedule. Check that all cotter pins are in place. Refer to specific fastener torques listed in each chapter.

Lower

Jam Nut

4.

Adjust the shift cable so there is the same amount of cable travel when shifting slightly past the detents of HIGH (H) gear and PARK (P).

5.

Thread the upper or lower jam nut as required to obtain proper cable adjustment.

NOTE: This procedure may require a few attempts to obtain the proper adjustment.

2.10

6.

Once the proper adjustment is obtained, place the shift cable and upper jam nut into the mount. Tighten the lower jam nut against the mount.

7.

Start engine and shift through all gears to ensure the shift cable is properly adjusted. If transmission still ratchets after cable adjustment, the transmission will require service.

FUEL SYSTEM AND AIR INTAKE

Fuel System

MAINTENANCE

2.

Be sure fuel line is routed properly.

IMPORTANT: Make sure line is not kinked or pinched.

3.

Replace fuel line every two years.

Fuel Pump / Fuel Filters

The 800 EFI RZR engine uses a non-serviceable, high-volume, high-pressure, fuel pump that includes a preliminary filter and an internal fine filter located before the pump regulator.

2

Fuel Pump Asm

WARNING

Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions.

Always stop the engine and refuel outdoors or in a well ventilated area.

Do not smoke or allow open flames or sparks in or near the area where refueling is performed or where gasoline is stored.

Do not overfill the tank. Do not fill the tank neck.

If you get gasoline in your eyes or if you swallow gasoline, seek medical attention immediately.

If you spill gasoline on your skin or clothing, immediately wash it off with soap and water and change clothing.

Never start the engine or let it run in an enclosed area. Engine exhaust fumes are poisonous and can result loss of consciousness or death in a short time.

Never drain the fuel when the engine is hot.

Severe burns may result.

Fuel Line

1.

Check the quick-connect fuel line for signs of wear, deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace if necessary.

NOTE: Neither filter is servicable.

Fuel Pump Asm

Located in Fuel Tank

Fine Filter

Preliminary Filter

Fuel Line

Injector Rail

Connector

Fuel Pump

Connector

NOTE: For all other information related to the EFI

System, refer to Chapter 4.

Vent Lines

1.

Check fuel tank, front gear case, rear gear case and transmission vent lines for signs of wear, deterioration, damage or leakage. Replace every two years.

2.

Be sure vent lines are routed properly and secured with cable ties.

IMPORTANT: Ensure lines are not kinked or pinched.

2.11

MAINTENANCE

Throttle Pedal Inspection

If the throttle pedal has excessive play due to cable stretch or cable misadjustment, it will cause a delay in throttle speed.

Also, the throttle may not open fully. If the throttle pedal has no play, the throttle may be hard to control, and the idle speed may be erratic.

3.

Squeeze the end of the rubber boot and slide it far enough to expose the end of the inline cable adjuster.

Boot

Throttle Cable

Adjuster

Throttle Pedal

Check the throttle pedal play periodically in accordance with the

Periodic Maintenance Chart and adjust the play if necessary.

Throttle Freeplay Adjustment

Inspection

1.

Place the transmission in the P (Park) position.

2.

Start the engine, and warm it up thoroughly.

3.

Measure the distance the throttle pedal moves before the engine begins to pick up speed. Free play should be 1/16”

- 1/8” (1.5 - 3 mm).

Adjustment

1.

Remove the seat and rear service panel.

2.

Locate the throttle cable adjuster just above the PVT cover.

Lock Nut

Adjuster

4.

Loosen the adjuster lock nut.

5.

Rotate the boot to turn the adjuster until 1/16" to 1/8"

(1.5 - 3 mm) of freeplay is achieved at the throttle pedal.

NOTE: While adjusting, lightly flip the throttle pedal up and down.

6.

Tighten the lock nut.

7.

Squeeze the end of the rubber boot and slide it over the cable adjuster to its original position.

Air Filter Service

It is recommended that the air filter be inspected as part of pre-ride inspection. When riding in extremely dusty conditions, apply grease to the seal under the air box cap. In extremely dusty conditions, air filter replacement will be required more often.

The filter should be inspected using the following procedure.

Removal

1.

The air box is located just above the rear LH wheel in the wheel well area.

2.

Unlatch the (2) clips and remove the air box cap. Inspect the seal. It should adhere tightly to the cover and seal all the way around.

Air Box Location

2.12

3.

Remove air filter assembly and remove the pre-filter sleeve.

4.

Inspect the main air filter element and replace if necessary.

Do not clean the main filter, the filter should be replaced.

NOTE: If the filter has been soaked with fuel or oil it must be replaced.

5.

Wash pre-filter in warm soapy water and allow it to air dry.

NOTE: If unable to clean the pre-filter, replace it.

Seal

MAINTENANCE

Installation

1.

Clean the air box thoroughly.

2.

Install a new or clean pre-filter over the main air filter element.

3.

Reinstall the filter into the air box. Be sure the filter fits tightly in the air box.

NOTE: Apply a small amount of general purpose grease to the sealing edges of the filter and the air box cap seal before installing.

4.

Install air box cap and secure with clips.

2

Cap

Pre-Filter

Sleeve

Air Filter

NOTE: Service more frequently if vehicle is operated in wet conditions or at high throttle openings for extended periods.

Intake Box

Air Box

Foam Seal

Intake Duct

Foam Seal

Secure Clips

T-MAP

Sensor

Boot

Breather

Hose

Fitting

Air Intake Duct

Breather

Filter

Seal

Seal

Clamps

Clip (2)

Air Filter

Air Box Can

Pre-Filter

Sleeve

Cap

2.13

MAINTENANCE

ENGINE

Engine Oil Level

The twin cylinder engine is a wet-sump engine, meaning the oil is contained in the bottom of the crankcase. To check the oil level follow the procedure listed below.

Lever Lock

Dipstick

SAFE ADD 8 OZ

Dipstick

1.

Position vehicle on a level surface.

2.

Place the transmission in PARK (P).

3.

Be sure the machine has sat for awhile before removing the dipstick.

IMPORTANT: Do not run the machine and then check the dipstick.

4.

Remove both seats and the rear service panel.

5.

Stop engine and lift the lever lock. Remove dipstick and wipe dry with a clean cloth.

6.

Reinstall the dipstick completely, but do not lock it.

NOTE: Make certain the dipstick is inserted all the way into the filler tube to keep the angle and depth of dipstick consistent.

7.

Remove the dipstick and check the oil level. Maintain the oil level in the “SAFE” range. Add oil as indicated by the level on the dipstick. Do not overfill (see NOTE below).

NOTE: Due to the dipstick entry angle into the crankcase, the oil level will read higher on the bottom side of the dipstick. Proper level indication is determined on the upper surface of the dipstick as it is being removed, regardless of the level marks being on top or on bottom (see the next illustration).

Dipstick

Always read top side of dipstick to properly check oil level in crankcase

Dipstick

Lever Lock

NOTE: A rising oil level between checks in cool weather driving can indicate contaminants such as gas or moisture collecting in the crankcase. If the oil level is over the full mark, change the oil immediately.

8.

Reinstall the dipstick and seat the lever lock.

2.14

Engine Oil and Filter Service

Always change engine oil and filter at the intervals outlined in the Periodic Maintenance Chart. Always change the oil filter whenever changing the engine oil.

WARNING

Personal injury can occur when handling used oil. Hot oil can cause burns or skin damage.

MAINTENANCE

NOTE: The sealing surface on the drain plug should be clean and free of burrs, nicks or scratches.

8.

Reinstall drain plug and torque to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) .

9.

Remove both seats and rear service panel.

10. Place shop towels beneath oil filter. Using Oil Filter

Wrench (PV-43527) and a 3/8” extension, turn the oil filter counter-clockwise to remove it.

2

Oil Filter

Recommended Engine Oil:

Premium 4-Cycle Synthetic OW-40

(PN 2871281) (Quart)

Ambient Temperature Range

-40° F to 120° F

1.


2.


3.

Start the engine. Allow it to idle for two to three minutes until warm. Stop the engine.

4.

Clean area around oil drain plug at bottom of engine.

Drain Plug

NOTE: Drain plug is accessed

through the skid plate.

11. Using a clean dry cloth, clean filter sealing surface on the crankcase.

12. Lubricate O-ring on new filter with a film of fresh engine oil. Check to make sure the O-ring is in good condition.

13. Install new filter and turn by hand until filter gasket contacts the sealing surface, then turn an additional 1/2 turn.

14. Remove dipstick and fill sump with 2 quarts (1.9 l) of

Polaris Premium 4-Cycle Synthetic Oil (PN 2871281).

Crankcase Drain Plug Torque:

16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)

Oil Filter Torque:

Turn by hand until filter gasket contacts sealing surface, then turn an additional 1/2 turn

Oil Filter Wrench:

(PV-43527)

CAUTION

Oil may be hot. Do not allow hot oil to come into contact with skin, as serious burns may result.

5.

Place a drain pan beneath engine crankcase and remove the drain plug.

6.

Allow oil to drain completely.

7.

Replace the sealing washer on drain plug.

15. Verify the transmission is still positioned in PARK (P).

16. Start the engine and let it idle for one to two minutes.

17. Stop the engine and inspect for leaks.

18. Re-check the oil level on the dipstick and add oil as necessary to bring the level to the upper mark on the dipstick.

19. Dispose of used oil and oil filter properly.

2.15

MAINTENANCE

Engine Breather Hose Inspection

The engine is equipped with a breather hose. Inspect the breather hose for possible kinks or wear. The hose is form fitted for a proper fit. Follow the breather hose from the side of the airbox to the engine valve cover.

Breather

Hose

A smooth idle generally indicates good compression. Low engine compression is rarely a factor in running condition problems above idle speed.

A cylinder leakdown test is the best indication of engine condition. Follow manufacturer's instructions to perform a cylinder leakage test (never use high pressure leakage testers, as crankshaft seals may dislodge and leak).

Cylinder Compression

Standard: 150-200 PSI

Cylinder Leakdown

Service Limit 15%

(Inspect for cause if test exceeds 15%)

Exhaust - Spark Arrestor

NOTE: Make sure line is not kinked or pinched.

Engine and Transmission Mount Locations

Periodically inspect engine and transmission mounts for cracks or damage.

Rear Mount

LH Mount

WARNING

Do not clean spark arrestor immediately after the engine has been run, as the exhaust system becomes very hot. Serious burns could result from contact with the exhaust components. Allow components to cool sufficiently before proceeding.

Wear eye protection and gloves.

Never run the engine in an enclosed area. Exhaust contains poisonous carbon monoxide gas that can cause loss of consciousness or death in a very short time.

Periodically clean the spark arrestor to remove accumulated carbon.

1.

Remove the retaining screw and remove the arrestor from the end of the muffler.

2.

Use a non-synthetic brush to clean the arrestor screen. A synthetic brush may melt if components are warm.

3.

Inspect the screen for wear and damage. Replace if needed.

4.

Reinstall the arrestor and torque the screw to 5-7 ft. lbs.

(7-9 Nm) .

Arrestor

Screen

RH Mount

Compression and Leakdown Test

NOTE: This engine does NOT have decompression components. Compression readings will vary in proportion to cranking speed during the test.

2.16

Muffler

Retaining

Screw

MAINTENANCE

TRANSMISSION AND GEARCASES

Transmission / Gearcase Specification Chart

G EARCASE L UBRICANT C APACITY F ILL P LUG T ORQUE

D RAIN / L EVEL C HECK

P LUG T ORQUE

Transmission

(Main Gearcase)

Transmission

(Transfer Case)

Front Gearcase

Rear Gearcase

AGL - Synthetic ATV

Gearcase Lubricant

AGL - Synthetic ATV

Gearcase Lubricant

Premium Demand Drive

Fluid LT


Transmission Specifications

24 oz. (710 ml)

14 oz. (414 ml)

6.75 oz. (200 ml)

18 oz. (532 ml)

Transmission Lubrication

NOTE: It is important to follow the transmission and gearcase maintenance intervals described in the

Periodic Maintenance Chart. Regular fluid level inspections on these components should be performed as well.

40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm) 30-45 in. lbs. (3-5 Nm)

40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm) 30-45 in. lbs. (3-5 Nm)

8-10 ft. lbs. (11-14 Nm) 8-10 ft. lbs. (11-14 Nm)

40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm) 30-45 in. lbs. (3-5 Nm)

Transfer Case - Lubricant Level Check:

1.


2.

Remove the fill plug.

3.

Remove the level check plug.

4.

Add the recommended fluid through the fill plug hole until it begins to flow out the level check plug hole.

2

Specified Lubricant:

AGL Synthetic Gearcase Lubricant

(PN 2873602)

Fill Plug

Approximate Capacity at Change:

Main Gearcase - 24 oz. (710 ml)

Transfer Case - 14 oz. (414 ml)

Drain / Level Plug Torque:

30-45 in. lbs. (3-5 Nm)

Fill Plug Torque:

40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm)

Level Check Plug

Drain Plug

The transmission lubricant levels should be checked and changed in accordance with the maintenance schedule.

• Be sure vehicle is positioned on a level surface when checking or changing fluid.

• Check vent hose to be sure it is routed properly and unobstructed.

5.

Reinstall the level check plug and torque to 30-45 in. lbs.

(3-5 Nm) .

6.

Reinstall the fill plug and torque to 40-50 ft. lbs.

(54-68 Nm) .

2.17

MAINTENANCE

Main Gearcase - Lubricant Level Check:

The fill plug is located on the side of the gearcase just below the shift lever bell crank. Maintain the fluid level even with the bottom of the fill plug hole.

1.


2.


3.

Check the fluid level.

Transfer Case

Drain Plug

Main Gearcase

Drain Plug

Fill Plug /

Level Check Plug

4.

If fluid level is not at fill plug hole, add the recommended fluid as needed.

5.


(54-68 Nm) .

Transmission Lubricant Change:

The lubricant change procedure is relatively the same for the main gearcase and the transfer case. To minimize confusion, perform the lubricant change on only one gearcase at a time.

Access the drain plugs through the drain holes in the skid plate.

Transfer Case Lubricant Change:

1.

Remove the fill plug and the level check plug (refer to

“Transfer Case - Lubricant Level Check”).

2.

Place a drain pan under the transfer case drain plug.

3.

Remove the drain plug and allow to drain completely.

4.

Clean the drain plug.

5.

Reinstall the drain plug with a new o-ring and torque to

30-45 in. lbs. (3-5 Nm ).

6.

Add the recommended fluid through the fill plug hole until it begins to flow out the check plug hole. Do not overfill.

7.

Reinstall the level check plug and torque to 30-45 in. lbs.

(3-5 Nm) .

8.


(54-68 Nm) .

Main Gearcase Lubricant Change:

9.

Remove the fill plug (refer to “Main Gearcase - Lubricant

Level Check”).

10. Place a drain pan under the main gearcase drain plug.

11. Remove the drain plug and allow to drain completely.

12. Clean the drain plug.

13. Reinstall the drain plug with a new o-ring and torque to

30-45 in. lbs. (3-5 Nm) .

14. Add the recommended fluid through the fill plug hole.

Maintain the fluid level at the bottom of the fill plug hole when filling the Main Gearcase. Do not overfill.

15. Reinstall the fill plug and torque to 40-50 ft. lbs.

(54-68 Nm) .

16. Check for leaks. Discard the used lubricant properly.

2.18

Front Gearcase Lubrication

The front gearcase lubricant level should be checked and changed in accordance with the maintenance schedule.

• Be sure vehicle is positioned on a level surface when checking or changing fluid.

• Check vent hose to be sure it is routed properly and unobstructed.

MAINTENANCE

1.


2.

Remove the fill plug and check the fluid level.

3.

Add the recommended fluid as needed.

4.

Reinstall the fill plug and torque to 8-10 ft. lbs. (11-14 Nm) .

2

Lubricant Change:

The drain plug is located on the bottom of the gearcase.

Fill Plug

8-10 ft. lbs.

(11-14 Nm)

Front Gearcase Specifications


Premium Demand Drive Fluid LT

(PN 2876251)

Capacity: 6.75 oz. (200 ml)

Fill Plug: 8-10 ft. lbs. (11-14 Nm)

Drain Plug: 8-10 ft. lbs. (11-14 Nm)

Lubricant Level Check:

The fill plug is located on the bottom right side of the front gearcase. Maintain the lubricant level even with the bottom threads of the fill plug hole.

Drain Plug

8-10 ft. lbs.

(11-14 Nm)

1.


2.

Place a drain pan under the drain plug.

3.

Remove the drain plug and allow fluid to drain completely.

4.

Clean the drain plug. Inspect the O-ring and replace if damaged.

5.

Reinstall the drain plug; torque to 8-10 ft. lbs. (11-14 Nm) .

6.

Add the recommended fluid. Maintain the lubricant level even with the bottom threads of the fill plug hole.

7.

Reinstall the fill plug; torque to 8-10 ft. lbs. (11-14 Nm) .

8.

Check for leaks. Discard the used lubricant properly.

Fill Plug

8-10 ft. lbs.

(11-14 Nm)

2.19

MAINTENANCE

Rear Gearcase Lubrication

Rear Gearcase Specifications


ATV Angle Drive Fluid (PN 2871653)

Capacity: 18 oz. (532 ml)

Fill Plug Torque: 40-50 ft. lbs. (54-68 Nm)

Drain Plug Torque: 30-45 in. lbs. (3-5 Nm)

Lubricant Level Check:

The fill plug is located on the right side of the rear gearcase.

Maintain the fluid level even with the bottom of the threads of the fill plug hole.

Lubricant Change:

The drain plug is located on the bottom right side of the rear gearcase.

Fill Plug

Fill Plug

40-50 ft. lbs.

(54-68 Nm)

Maintain Level at

Bottom of Threads

Drain Plug

1.


2.

Place a drain pan under the drain plug.

3.

Remove the drain plug and allow the lubricant to drain completely.

4.

Clean the drain plug.

5.

Reinstall the drain plug with new O-ring and torque to

30-45 in. lbs. (3-5 Nm) .

1.

Position the vehicle on a level surface.

2.

Remove the fill plug and check the fluid level. The lubricant level should be even with the bottom of the threads of the fill plug hole.

3.

Add the recommended lubricant as needed.

4.


(54-68 Nm)

Fill Plug

40-50 ft. lbs.

(54-68 Nm)

Maintain Level at

Bottom of Threads

Drain Plug

30-45 in. lbs.

(3-5 Nm)

6.

Add the recommended lubricant. Maintain the fluid level even with the bottom threads of the fill plug hole.

7.


(54-68 Nm) .

8.

Check for leaks. Discard used lubricant properly.

2.20

COOLING SYSTEM

Cooling System Overview

The engine coolant level is controlled, or maintained, by the recovery system. The recovery system components are the recovery bottle, radiator filler neck, radiator pressure cap and connecting hose.

As coolant operating temperature increases, the expanding

(heated) excess coolant is forced out of the radiator past the pressure cap and into the recovery bottle. As engine coolant temperature decreases the contracting (cooled) coolant is drawn back up from the tank past the pressure cap and into the radiator.

NOTE: Some coolant level drop on new machines is normal as the system is purging itself of trapped air.

Observe coolant levels often during the break-in period.

NOTE: Overheating of engine could occur if air is not fully purged from system.

Polaris Premium 60/40 is already premixed and ready to use. Do not dilute with water.

Coolant Level Inspection

The pressure cap and recovery bottle are located under the front hood of the vehicle. The coolant level must be maintained between the minimum and maximum levels indicated on the recovery bottle.

Recovery Bottle

MAINTENANCE

4.

If the coolant level is below the MIN line, inspect the coolant level in the radiator.

NOTE: If overheating is evident, allow system to cool completely and check coolant level in the radiator and inspect for signs of trapped air in system.

2

WARNING

Never remove the pressure cap when the engine is warm or hot. Escaping steam can cause severe burns. The engine must be cool before removing the pressure cap.

5.

Remove the pressure cap. Using a funnel, add coolant to the top of the filler neck.

6.

Reinstall the pressure cap.

NOTE: Use of a non-standard pressure cap will not allow the recovery system to function properly.

7.

Remove recovery bottle cap and add coolant using a funnel.

8.

Fill recovery bottle to MAX level with Polaris 60/40 premix Anti Freeze/Coolant or 50/50 or 60/40 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water as required for freeze protection in your area.

9.

Reinstall the recovery bottle cap.

10. If coolant was required, start engine and check for leaks.

Make sure radiator fins are clean to prevent overheating.

Coolant Strength / Type

Test the strength of the coolant using an antifreeze hydrometer.

Pressure Cap

With the engine at operating temperature, the coolant level should be between the upper and lower marks on the coolant recovery bottle. If not, perform the following procedure.

1.


2.

Remove the hood by lifting it straight up from the front cab to allow the inserts to disengage from the grommets.

3.

View the coolant level in the recovery bottle.

Antifreeze Hydrometer

• A 50/50 or 60/40 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water will provide the optimum cooling, corrosion protection, and antifreeze protection.

• Do not use tap water, straight antifreeze, or straight water in the system. Tap water contains minerals and impurities which build up in the system.

• Straight water or antifreeze may cause the system to freeze, corrode, or overheat.

Polaris 60/40 Anti-Freeze / Coolant

(PN 2871323)

2.21

MAINTENANCE

Cooling System Pressure Test

Refer to Chapter 3 for cooling system pressure test procedure.

Cooling System Hoses

1.

Inspect all hoses for cracks, deterioration, abrasion or leaks. Replace if necessary.

2.

Carefully straighten any bent radiator fins.

3.

Remove any obstructions with compressed air or low pressure water.

CAUTION

Washing the vehicle with a high-pressure washer could damage the radiator fins and impair the radiators effectiveness. Use of a high-pressure washer is not recommended.

Recovery

Bottle

Filler Neck

Coolant Drain / Radiator Removal

Coolant Drain

1.

Remove the front hood.

2.

Check tightness of all hose clamps.

T-Connector

CAUTION

Do not over-tighten hose clamps at radiator, or radiator fitting may distort, causing a restriction to coolant flow. Radiator hose clamp torque is

36 in. lbs. (4 Nm).

WARNING

Never drain the coolant when the engine and radiator are warm or hot. Hot coolant can cause severe burns. Allow engine and radiator to cool.

2.

Slowly remove the pressure cap to relieve any cooling system pressure.

3.

Place a suitable drain pan underneath the T-fitting on the front RH side of the vehicle.

4.

Drain the coolant from the radiator by removing the lower engine inlet hose from the T-fitting. Properly dispose of the coolant.

Radiator

1.

Check radiator (A) air passages for restrictions or damage.

T-Fitting

A

Drain Here

5.

Allow coolant to completely drain.

Flush radiator fins in this direction

2.22

MAINTENANCE

Radiator Removal

1.

Remove the front bumper (see Chapter 5).

2.

Remove the upper engine outlet hose and recovery hose from the top of the radiator.

3.

Remove the (2) upper radiator retaining bolts and the (4) bolts retaining the lower radiator mount bracket. Remove the bracket from the frame.

FINAL DRIVE / WHEEL AND TIRE

Wheel, Hub, and Spindle Torque Table

Item

Aluminum Wheels

(Cast)

Steel Wheels

(Black / Camo)

Hub Retaining Nuts

(Front & Rear)

Nut Type

Lug Nut

#1

Flange Nut

#2

-

Specification

90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm)

27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

2

#2

#1

4.

Disconnect the fan motor and remove the radiator from the vehicle. Take care not to damage the cooling fins.

5.

Reverse procedure for installation.

Recovery

Hose

Fan Motor Asm.

T-Fitting

Engine

Inlet Hose

Engine

Outlet Hose

Grommets

Inserts

Radiator

Screws

Aluminum Wheel

90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm)

Steel Wheel

27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

NOTE: Do not lubricate the stud or the lug nut.

Wheel Removal

1.


2.

Place the transmission in PARK (P) and stop the engine.

3.

Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. If wheel hub removal is required, remove the cotter pin and loosen the hub nut slightly.

4.

Elevate the appropriate side of the vehicle by placing a suitable stand under the frame.

5.

Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel.

6.

If hub removal is required, remove the hub nut and washers.

Wheel Installation

1.

Verify the transmission is still in PARK (P).

2.

Install the wheel hub, washers, and hub nut, if previously removed.

3.

Place the wheel in the correct position on the wheel hub.

Be sure the valve stem is toward the outside and rotation arrows on the tire point toward forward rotation.

4.

Attach the wheel nuts and finger tighten them.

2.23

MAINTENANCE

5.

Carefully lower the vehicle to the ground.

6.

Torque the wheel nuts and/or hub nut to the proper torque specification listed in the torque table at the beginning of this section.

7.

If hub nut was removed, install a new cotter pin after the hub nut has been tightened.

Use a new cotter pin

Note

Tire Rotation

WARNING

Operating a RANGER with worn tires will increase the possibility of the vehicle skidding easily with possible loss of control.

Worn tires can cause an accident.

Always replace tires when the tread depth measures 1/8", (.3 cm) or less.

Tire Pressure

Hub Nut

CAUTION

Maintain proper tire pressure.

Refer to the warning tire pressure decal applied to the vehicle.

Wheel Nuts (4)

Valve stem facing outward

CAUTION

If wheels are improperly installed it could affect vehicle handling and tire wear. On vehicles with tapered rear wheel nuts, make sure tapered end of nut goes into taper on wheel.

Tire Inspection

• Improper tire inflation may affect vehicle maneuverability.

• When replacing a tire always use original equipment size and type.

• The use of non-standard size or type tires may affect vehicle handling.

Tire Tread Depth

Always replace tires when tread depth is worn to 1/8" (3 mm) or less.

Tread

Depth 1/8" (3 mm)

Tire Pressure Inspection (Cold)

Front Rear

8 psi (55 kPa) 8 (55 kPa)

Drive Shaft Boot Inspection

Inspect the front and rear drive shaft boots for damage, tears, wear, or leaking grease. If the rubber boots exhibit any of these symptoms, replace the boot(s). Refer to Chapter 7 for drive shaft boot replacement.

Front Boots

Rear Boots

2.24

MAINTENANCE

ELECTRICAL AND IGNITION SYSTEM

Battery Maintenance

Keep battery terminals and connections free of corrosion. If cleaning is necessary, remove the corrosion with a stiff wire brush. Wash with a solution of one tablespoon baking soda and one cup water. Rinse well with tap water and dry off with clean shop towels. Coat the terminals with dielectric grease or petroleum jelly.

Be careful not to allow cleaning solution or tap water into the battery

Battery Removal

1.

Remove the driver’s seat to access the battery.

Battery

2

WARNING

Battery electrolyte is poisonous. It contains sulfuric acid. Serious burns can result from contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote:

External: Flush with water.

Internal: Drink large quantities of water or milk.

Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.

Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention.

Batteries produce explosive gases.

Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away.

Ventilate when charging or using in an enclosed space. Always shield eyes when working near batteries.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

NOTE: Batteries must be fully charged before use or battery life will be reduced by 10-30% of full potential. Charge battery for 3-5 hours at a current equivalent of 1/10 of the battery’s rated amp/hour capacity. Do not use the alternator to charge a new battery.

2.

Disconnect the black (negative) battery cable.

3.

Disconnect the red (positive) battery cable.

4.

Remove the rubber strap and lift the battery out of the vehicle.

CAUTION

To reduce the chance of sparks: Whenever removing the battery, disconnect the black

(negative) cable first. When reinstalling the battery, install the black (negative) cable last.

Battery Installation

IMPORTANT: Using a new battery that has not been fully charged can damage the battery and result in a shorter life. It can also hinder vehicle performance.

Follow the battery charging procedure before installing the battery.

1.

Ensure the battery is fully charged.

2.

Place the battery in the battery holder and secure with rubber strap.

3.

Coat the terminals with dielectric grease or petroleum jelly.

4.

Connect and tighten the red (positive) cable first.

5.

Connect and tighten the black (negative) cable last.

6.

Verify that cables are properly routed and reinstall the driver’s seat.

2.25

MAINTENANCE

Battery Off Season Storage

Whenever the vehicle is not used for a period of three months or more, remove the battery from the vehicle, ensure that it's fully charged, and store it out of the sun in a cool, dry place. Check battery voltage each month during storage and recharge as needed to maintain a full charge.

NOTE: Battery charge can be maintained by using a

Polaris battery tender charger or by charging about once a month to make up for normal self-discharge.

Battery tenders can be left connected during the storage period, and will automatically charge the battery if the voltage drops below a pre-determined point.

Battery Charging (Sealed Battery)

The sealed battery is already filled with electrolyte and has been sealed at the factory. Never pry the sealing strip off or add any type of fluid to this battery.

The single most important thing about maintaining a sealed battery is to keep it fully charged. Since the battery is sealed and the sealing strip cannot be removed, you must use a voltmeter or multimeter to measure the DC voltage at the battery terminals.

1.

Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter or multimeter.

The battery voltage should read 12.8 VDC or higher.

2.

If the voltage is less than 12.8 volts, charge the battery at

1.2 amps or less until battery voltage is 12.8 VDC or greater.

NOTE: When using an automatic charger, refer to the charger manufacturer’s instructions for battery charging directions. When using a constant current charger, follow the guidelines in the following table:

Spark Plug Service

1.

Remove both driver and passenger seats.

2.

Remove the rear service panel.

WARNING

A hot exhaust system and engine can cause serious burns. Allow engine to cool or wear protective gloves when removing the spark plugs

3.

The PTO side spark plug can be accessed with the service panel removed. The MAG side spark plug can be accessed through the rear RH wheel well area.

4.

Remove both spark plug caps.

5.

Clean plug area so no dirt and debris can fall into engine when plugs are removed.

6.

Remove spark plugs.

7.

Inspect electrodes for wear and carbon buildup. Look for a sharp outer edge with no rounding or erosion of the electrodes.

Inspect electrode for wear and buildup

S TATE OF

C HARGE

V OLTAGE A CTION

C HARGE

T IME

100% 12.8 - 13 VDC

75% - 100% 12.5 - 12.8 VDC

None, check again in 3 months

May need slight charge, check again in 3 months

0% - 25% 11.5 VDC or less

Needs Charge with desulfating charger

None

Required

3 - 6 hrs

50% - 75% 12.0 - 12.5 VDC Needs Charge 5 - 11 hrs

25% - 50% 11.5 - 12.0 VDC Needs Charge

At least 13 hrs, verify state of charge

At least 20 hrs

2.26

8.

Clean with electrical contact cleaner or a glass bead spark plug cleaner only. CAUTION: A wire brush or coated abrasive should not be used.

MAINTENANCE

9.

Measure gap with a wire gauge. Refer to specifications in the following illustration for proper spark plug type and gap. Adjust gap if necessary by carefully bending the side electrode.

Spark Plug Gap

STEERING AND SUSPENSION

Steering Inspection

The steering components should be checked periodically for loose fasteners, worn tie rod ends, ball joints, and damage. Also check to make sure all cotter pins are in place. If cotter pins are removed, they must not be re–used. Always use new cotter pins.

Replace any worn or damaged steering components. Steering should move freely through the entire range of travel without binding. Check routing of all cables, hoses, and wiring to be sure the steering mechanism is not restricted or limited.

2

Gap - .035" (0.90 mm)

10. If necessary, replace spark plug with proper type.

CAUTION: Severe engine damage may occur if the incorrect spark plug is used.

11. Apply anti-seize compound to the spark plug threads.

12. Install spark plug and torque to specification.

Recommended Spark Plug:

Champion RC7YC3

Spark Plug Torque:

18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)

replaced, check front end alignment.

WARNING

Due to the critical nature of the procedures outlined in this chapter, Polaris recommends steering component repair and adjustment be performed by an authorized

Polaris MSD certified technician when replacing worn or damaged steering parts.

Use only genuine Polaris replacement parts.

Engine To Frame Ground

Inspect engine ground cable connection. Be sure it is clean and tight. The ground cable runs from the engine starter motor to the ground terminal location under the driver’s seat near the battery.

Ground

Terminal Location

Steering Wheel Freeplay

Check the steering wheel for specified freeplay and operation.

1.

Position the vehicle on level ground.

2.

Lightly turn the steering wheel left and right.

3.

There should be 0.8”-1.0” (20-25 mm) of freeplay.

4.

If there is excessive freeplay or the steering feels rough, inspect the following components.

• Tie Rod Ends

• Steering Shaft U-Joints

• Steering Gearbox

Tie Rod

Engine

Ground Strap

U-Joints

Tie Rod

Gearbox

2.27

MAINTENANCE

Steering Inspection / Tie Rod Ends and Hubs

• To check for play in the tie rod end, grasp the steering tie rod and pull in all directions feeling for movement.

Toe Alignment Inspection

1.

Place machine on a smooth level surface.

2.

Set steering wheel in a straight ahead position and secure the steering wheel in this position.

3.

Place a chalk mark on the center line of the front tires approximately 10” (25.4 cm) from the floor or as close to the hub/axle center line as possible.

• Elevate front end of machine so front wheels are off the ground. Check for any looseness in front hub and wheel assembly by grasping the tire firmly at top and bottom first, and then at front and rear. Try to move the wheel and hub by pushing inward and pulling outward.

Check for Loose Wheel or Hub

Measurement “B” Chalk Mark

Measurement “A”

NOTE: It is important that the height of both marks be equally positioned in order to get an accurate measurement.

4.

Measure the distance between the marks and record the measurement. Call this measurement “A”.

5.

Rotate the tires 180

°

by moving vehicle forward or backward. Position chalk marks facing rearward, even with the hub/axle center line.

6.

Again measure the distance between the marks and record.

Call this measurement “B”. Subtract measurement “B” from measurement “A”. The difference between measurements “A” and “B” is the vehicle toe alignment.

The recommended vehicle toe tolerance is 1/8” to 1/4”

(.3 to .6 cm) toe out. This means the measurement at the front of the tire (A) is 1/8” to 1/4” (.3 to .6 cm) wider than the measurement at the rear (B).

• If abnormal movement is detected, inspect the hub and wheel assembly to determine the cause (possible loose wheel nuts or loose front hub components).

• Refer to Chapter 7 “Final Drive” for front hub service procedures.

= In. / mm.

Wheel Toe-Out:

(A) - (B) = 1/8 - 1/4" (.3 to .6 cm)

2.28

Toe Adjustment

If toe alignment is incorrect, measure the distance between vehicle center and each wheel. This will tell you which tie rod needs adjusting.

NOTE: Be sure steering wheel is straight ahead before determining which tie rod(s) need adjustment.

MAINTENANCE

Suspension Spring Adjustment

1.


2.

Stop the engine.

3.

Raise and safely support the front or rear of the vehicle off the ground to allow the suspension to fully extend.

NOTE: The tires should not be touching the ground.

4.

To adjust the suspension, use the adjustment cam located near the bottom of the shock.

2

CAUTION

During tie rod adjustment, it is very important that the following precautions be taken when tightening tie rod end jam nuts.

If the rod end is positioned incorrectly it will not pivot, and may break.

Shock Spanner Wrench

(PN 2870872)

5.

Rotate the adjustment cam clockwise to increase spring tension or counter-clockwise to decrease spring tension.

To adjust toe alignment:

• Hold tie rod end to keep it from rotating.

• Loosen jam nuts at both ends of the tie rod.

• Shorten or lengthen the tie rod until alignment is as required to achieve the proper toe setting as specified in

Toe Alignment Inspection .

• IMPORTANT: When tightening the tie rod end jam nuts, the rod ends must be held parallel to prevent rod end damage and premature wear. Damage may not be immediately apparent if done incorrectly.

• After alignment is complete, torque jam nuts to specification.

Cam

Increase

Preload

= T

Tie Rod Jam Nut Torque:

12-14 ft. lbs. (16-19 Nm)

Decrease

Preload

Suspension Spring Preload Adjustment

The front and rear shock absorber springs are adjustable by rotating the adjustment cam to change spring tension preload.

6.

Each notch of the adjustment will add 6% - 8% more preload to the spring over the primary position.

WARNING

Uneven adjustment may cause poor handling of the vehicle, which could result in an accident and serious injury or death. Always adjust both the left and right spring preloads equally.

2.29

MAINTENANCE

BRAKE SYSTEM

Brake Fluid Inspection

Always check the brake pedal travel and inspect the brake fluid reservoir level before each operation. If the fluid level is low, add DOT 4 brake fluid only.

Brake fluid should be changed every two years. The fluid should also be changed anytime the fluid becomes contaminated, the fluid level is below the minimum level, or if the type and brand of the fluid in the reservoir is unknown.

The brake fluid master cylinder reservoir can be accessed through the left front wheel well.

1.


2.


3.

View the brake fluid level in the reservoir. The level should be between the MAX and MIN level lines.

4.

If the fluid level is lower than the MIN level line, add brake fluid until it reaches the MAX level line.

5.

Install the reservoir cap and apply the brake pedal forcefully for a few seconds and check for fluid leakage around the master cylinder fittings and the brake caliper fittings.

Brake Pad / Disc Inspection

1.

Check the brake pads for wear, damage, or looseness.

2.

Inspect the brake pad wear surface for excessive wear.

3.

Pads should be changed when the friction material is worn to .040” (1 mm).

Measure Pad Material

Thickness

Service Limit:

.040" (1 mm)

4.

Check surface condition of the brake discs.

5.

Measure the thickness of the front and rear brake discs.

6.

The disc(s) should be replaced if thickness is less than .170”

(4.32 mm).

Measure Brake Disc Thickness

Rear

Disc

Front

Disc Maximum

Minimum

Master Cylinder

Service Limit:

.170" (4.32 mm)

Brake Hose and Fitting Inspection

Check brake system hoses and fittings for cracks, deterioration, abrasion, and leaks. Tighten any loose fittings and replace any worn or damaged parts.

2.30

ENGINE

CHAPTER 3

ENGINE

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2

CRANKCASE EXPLODED VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.2

ENGINE FASTENER TORQUE PATTERNS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.7

TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.8

800 EFI ENGINE SERVICE SPECIFICATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.9

SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.11

ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.12

COOLING SYSTEM SPECIFICATIONS / PRESSURE TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.12

COOLING SYSTEM EXPLODED VIEW. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.13

COOLING SYSTEM BLEEDING PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.14

GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.15

ENGINE LUBRICATION SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.15

ACCESSIBLE ENGINE COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.15

OIL PRESSURE TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.15

OIL FLOW CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.16

ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.17

ENGINE / TRANSMISSION SEPARATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.23

ENGINE DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.24

CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.24

ROCKER ARMS / PUSH RODS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25

CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.25

CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION / WARP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.26

VALVE SEAL / SPRING SERVICE (ON ENGINE) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.26

CYLINDER HEAD DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.27

VALVE INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.28

COMBUSTION CHAMBER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.29

VALVE SEAT RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.29

CYLINDER HEAD REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.31

VALVE SEALING TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.32

CYLINDER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.32

VALVE LIFTER REMOVAL / INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.32

PISTON REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.33

CYLINDER INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.34

CYLINDER HONE SELECTION AND HONING PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.35

HONING TO DEGLAZE / CLEANING THE CYLINDER AFTER HONING. . . . . . . . . . . 3.35

PISTON-TO-CYLINDER CLEARANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.36

PISTON / ROD INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.36

PISTON RING INSTALLED GAP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.37

STARTER DRIVE BENDIX REMOVAL / INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.37

FLYWHEEL / STATOR REMOVAL / INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.38

ENGINE CRANKCASE DISASSEMBLY / INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.38

CAMSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.46

ENGINE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.47

CRANKCASE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.47

FLYWHEEL / STATOR INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.56

CYLINDER HEAD REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.56

OIL PUMP PRIMING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.58

ENGINE INSTALLATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.59

ENGINE ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.59

ENGINE BREAK-IN PERIOD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.60

TROUBLESHOOTING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.61

ENGINE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.61

COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.62

3

3.1

ENGINE

ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS

Crankcase Exploded Views

3.2

Oil Pump / Water Pump / Engine Cover Exploded View

ENGINE

3

3.3

ENGINE

Stator Cover / Starter / Water Pump Oil Filter / Pressure Relief / Exploded View

3.4

Cylinder / Cylinder Head / Piston Exploded View

ENGINE

3

3.5

ENGINE

Engine EFI Sensors / Valve Cover

/

General Component Exploded View

3.6

NOTE: See Chapter 4 for more information on the EFI System

Engine Fastener Torque Patterns

Crankcase Bolt Tighten Sequence

ENGINE

3

22

±

2 ft. lbs. (30

±

3 Nm)

Cylinder Head Bolt Tighten Sequence

Lubricate threads and between washer and underside of bolt with engine oil.

Torque in sequence to spec provided, allow the gasket to set for 1 minute, then tighten in sequence 90

°

(1/4 turn).

35

±

4 ft. lbs.

(47.5

±

5.5 Nm) + 90

°

(1/4 turn)

3.7

ENGINE

Torque Specifications

Engine Torque Specifications

Camshaft Gear

Fastener

Camshaft Thrust Plate

Throttle Body Adaptor Bolts

Counterbalance Gear

Crankcase Bolts

Crankcase Breather

Cylinder Head Bolts

Exhaust Manifold

Flywheel

Injector Rail

Magneto Cover

Oil Baffle Weldment

Oil Drain Bolt (Crankcase)

Oil Fill Tube Bolt

Oil Filter Pipe Fitting

Oil Pick Up

Oil Pressure Relief Plug

Oil Pump Housing Screw

Rocker Arm

Rocker Cover

Spark Plug

Starter Motor

Stator Assembly

Stator Housing

Temperature Switch

Thermostat Housing

Timing Plug

Trigger Coil/Stator Wire Holddown

Water Pump Housing Cover

Water Pump Impeller Nut in. lbs. (Nm)

115 ± 12 (13 ± 1.35)

216 ± 24 (24.5-± 2.7)

20 ± 5 (2.5 ± 0.55)

216 ± 24 (24.5 ± 2.70)

216 ± 24 (24.5 ± 2.70)

* 96 ± 3 (10.85 ± 0.35)

60 ± 6 (6.8 ± 0.68)

192 ± 24 (21.7 ± 2.7)

50 ± 5 (5.64 ± 0.56)

60 ± 6 (6.8 ± 0.68)

22 ± 2 (30 ± 3)

* 84 ± 8 (9.50 ± 0.90)

* 84 ± 8 (9.5 ± 0.9)

216 ± 24 (24.5 ± 2.7)

* 84 ± 8 (9.5 ± 0.9)

96 ± 3 (10.85 ± 0.35)

* 96 ± 3 (10.85 ± 0.35)

84 ± 8 (9.5 ± 0.9)

* 96 ± 3 (10.85 ± 0.35)

* 96 ± 3 (10.85 ± 0.35)

108 ± 3 (12 ± 0.35)

NOTE: * See exploded views for notes or torque sequences.

8 mm

6 mm

14 mm

6 mm

6 mm

6 mm

3/8 NPT

6 mm

3/4-16

5 mm

6 mm

8 mm

8 mm

14 mm

8 mm

6 mm

5 mm

12 mm

5 mm

20 mm

Size

8 mm

6 mm

8 mm

8 mm

8 mm

5 mm

11 mm

5 mm

10 mm

6 mm ft. lbs. (Nm)

22 ± 2 (30 ± 3)

9.5 ± 1 (13 ± 1.35)

18 ± 2 (24.5 ± 2.7)

22 ± 2 (30 ± 3)

* 22 ± 2 (30 ± 3)

-

* 35 ± 4 (47.5 ± 5.5)

18 ± 2 (24.5 ± 2.7)

65 ± 7 (88 ± 9.50)

18 ± 2 (24.5 ± 2.7)

-

-

16 ± (21.7)

-

35 ± 4 (47.5 ± 5.4)

-

-

-

* 22 ± 2 (30 ± 3)

-

18 ± 2 (24.5 ± 2.7)

-

-

-

17 ± 2 (23 ± 3)

-

7 - 9 (10 - 12)

-

-

-

3.8

ENGINE

800 EFI Engine Service Specifications

Cylinder Head - Engine Specifications

Main Component: Cylinder Head EH076OLE021

Camshaft

Cam Lobe Height - Intake / Exhaust 1.3334" (33.8674 mm)

Camshaft Journal Outer Diameter - Mag

Camshaft Journal Outer Diameter - Center

Camshaft Journal Outer Diameter - PTO

Camshaft Oil Clearance

Camshaft End Play

1.654"

±

0.00039" (42

±

0.010 mm)

1.634"

±

0.00039" (41.50

±

0.010 mm)

1.614"

±

0.00039" (41

±

0.010 mm)

Camshaft Journal Bore Inner Diameter - Mag 1.656"

±

0.00039" (42.07

±

0.010 mm)

Camshaft Journal Bore Inner Diameter - Center 1.637"

±

0.00039" (41.58

±

0.010 mm)

Camshaft Journal Bore Inner Diameter - PTO 1.617"

±

0.00039" (41.07

±

0.010 mm)

0.00276"

±

0.00079" (0.07

±

0.02 mm)

0.0167"

±

0.0098" (0.425

±

0.25 mm)

Counter Balance Counter Balance End Play 0.005" (0.127 mm)

Cylinder Head

Cylinder Head - Surface warp limit

Cylinder Head - Standard height

Valve Seat

Valve Guide

Valve

Valve Spring

Valve Seat - Contacting Width - Intake

Valve Seat - Contacting Width - Exhaust

Valve Seat Angle

Valve Guide Inner diameter

Valve Guide Protrusion Above Head

Valve Margin Thickness - Intake

Valve Margin Thickness - Exhaust

Valve Stem Diameter - Intake

Valve Stem Diameter - Exhaust

Valve Stem Oil Clearance - Intake

Valve Stem Oil Clearance - Exhaust

Valve Stem Overall Length - Intake

Valve Stem Overall Length - Exhaust

Valve Spring Overall Length - Free Length

Valve Spring Overall Length - Installed Height

0.00394" (0.1 mm)

3.478" (88.35 mm)

0.0472"

±

0.00787" - 0.0039"

(1.20

±

0.20 - 0.10mm)

0.0591"

±

0.00787" - 0.0039"

(1.50

±

0.20 - 0.10 mm)

45.5

° ±

0.255

°

0.2367"

±

0.00029" (6.012

±

0.007 mm)

0.807"

±

0.0039" (20.50

±

0.01 mm)

Standard: 0.79" (20.06 mm)

Max- 0.98" (24.89 mm) Min.- 0.59" (14.98 mm)

Standard: 0.80" (20.32 mm)

Max- 1.0" (25.4 mm) Min.- 0.60" (15.24 mm)

0.2356"

±

0.00039" (5.985

±

0.01 mm)

0.2351"

±

0.00039" (5.972

±

0.01 mm)

0.00228"

±

0.00098" (0.058

±

0.025 mm)

0.00275"

±

0.00098" (0.0870

±

0.025mm)

4.51"

±

0.01476" (114.5550

±

0.375 mm)

4.5453"

±

.01496" (115.45

±

0.38 mm)

1.735" (46.069 mm)

Intake - 1.4638" (37.18 mm)

Exhaust - 1.4736" (37.43 mm)

3

3.9

ENGINE

Cylinder / Piston - Engine Specifications

EH076OLE021 Main Components: Cylinder / Piston / Connecting Rod

Cylinder

Lifter

Piston

Piston Pin

Cylinder - Surface warp limit

(mating with cylinder head)

Cylinder Bore - Standard

Cylinder Taper Limit

Cylinder Out of Round Limit

Cylinder to Piston Clearance

Lifter Outer Diameter Standard

Lifter Block Bore

Piston - Standard

Piston Standard Inner Diameter of

Piston Pin Bore

Piston Pin Outer Diameter

Piston Pin - Standard Clearance - Piston Pin to

Pin Bore

Piston Pin - Degree of Fit

0.004" (0.10 mm)

3.1495" (80 mm)

0.00031" (0.008 mm)

0.00030" (0.0075 mm)

.0015"

±

.00059" (.040

±

.015mm)

0.84245"

±

0.00025" (21.39 8

±

0.00635 mm)

0.8438"

±

0.00062" (21.4322

±

0.0157 mm)

3.14803"

±

.00028" (79.960

±

.007mm)

0.70902"

±

.00012" (18.009

±

0.003 mm)

0.70866" - 0.70846" (18 - 17.995 mm)

0.00047"

±

0.00024" (0.012

±

0.006 mm)

Piston pin must be push fit (by hand) at 68° F (20° C)

Piston / Connecting Rod / Crankshaft - Engine Specifications

Main Components: Piston / Connecting Rod

Piston Ring

Connecting Rod

Crankshaft

Installed

Gap

Top Ring - Standard

Top Ring - Limit

Second Ring - Standard

Second Ring - Limit

Oil Ring - Standard

Oil Ring - Limit

Top Ring - Standard

Ring to

Groove

Clearance

Top Ring - Limit

Second Ring - Standard

Second Ring - Limit

Connecting Rod Small End I.D.

Connecting Rod Small End

Radial Clearance

Connecting Rod Big End

Side Clearance

Connecting Rod Big End

Radial Clearance

Crankshaft Runout Limit

EH076OLE021

0.0059

±

0.138" (0.15

±

0.35mm)

> 15% Leakdown

0.0098

±

0.197" (0.25

±

0.50mm)

> 15% Leakdown

0.0196

±

0.00984" (0.50

±

0.25mm)

> 15% Leakdown

0.0024"

±

0.0008" (0.060

±

0.020 mm)

> 15% Leakdown

0.0028"

±

0.0008" (0.070

±

0.020 mm)

> 15% Leakdown

0.7096"

−

0.70846" (18

−

17.995 mm)

0.0098"

±

0.00039" (0.025

±

0.010mm)

0.01181"

±

0.00591" (0.030

±

0.015mm)

0.0015"

±

0.00006" (0.0038

±

0.0015mm)

0.00236" (0.060mm)

3.10

Special Tools

Part Number

PV-43527

2200634

PU-45257

PU-45652

2871043

2870390

PU-45497-1

PU-45497-2

PU-45498

PU-45838

PA-44995

PU-45543

PA-45483

PU-45658

PA-45401

2870975

PU-45778

ENGINE

Tool Description

OIL FILTER WRENCH

VALVE SEAT RECONDITIONING KIT

VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR

VALVE PRESSURE HOSE

FLYWHEEL PULLER

PISTON SUPPORT BLOCK

CAM GEAR SPRING INSTALLATION KIT

CAM GEAR TOOTH ALIGNMENT TOOL

CAM SPANNER WRENCH

GEAR HOLDER

WATER PUMP MECHANICAL SEAL INSTALLER

UNIVERSAL DRIVER HANDLE

MAIN SEAL INSTALLER

CRANKSHAFT MAIN SEAL SAVER

WATER PUMP SEAL SAVER

MITY VAC ™ PRESSURE TEST TOOL

OIL SYSTEM PRIMING TOOL

3

3.11

ENGINE

ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM

Cooling System Specifications

Condition

Thermostat Open

Thermostat Full Open Lift

Thermostat Closed

System Capacity

Pressure Cap Relief

Specification

180° F (82° C)

6 mm at 203° F (95° C)

171° F (77° C)

4 Quarts (3.8L)

13 PSI

Polaris Premium Antifreeze

2871534 - Quart

2871323 - Gallon

Recommended Coolant

Use only high quality antifreeze/coolant mixed with distilled water in a 50/50 or 60/40 ratio, depending on freeze protection required in your area.

CAUTION: Using tap water in the cooling system will lead to a buildup of deposits which may restrict coolant flow and reduce heat dissipation, resulting in possible engine damage. Polaris

Premium 60/40 Antifreeze/Coolant is recommended for use in all cooling systems and comes pre-mixed, ready to use.

Cooling System Pressure Test

1.

Remove the front hood.

2.

Remove pressure cap and pressure test the cooling system using a commercially available pressure tester.

3.

The system must maintain 10 psi for five minutes or longer.

If pressure loss is evident within five minutes, check the radiator, hoses, clamps and water pump seals for leakage.

Pressure Cap Test

WARNING

Never remove pressure cap when engine is warm or hot. The cooling system is under pressure and serious burns may result.

Allow the engine and cooling system to cool before servicing.

1.

Remove pressure cap and test cap using a commercially available pressure cap tester.

2.

The pressure cap relief pressure is 13 psi. Replace cap if it does not meet this specification.

Pressure Cap

Remove

Cap

Test Here

3.12

ENGINE

Cooling System Exploded View

Engine Outlet Hose

(Thermostat Housing)

Radiator

Inlet Hose

Engine Inlet Hose

(Water Pump Cover)

Pressure Cap

Filler Neck To Bottle

Recovery Bottle

Radiator

Outlet Hose

If Built After 4/16/2007

Fan Motor

Shroud

3

Radiator

To Filler Neck

Coolant Flow Diagram

Filler Neck

Engine

Water Pump

Engine

Thermostat Housing

Recovery Bottle

Radiator

3.13

ENGINE

Cooling System Bleeding Procedure

WARNING

Always wear safety glasses and proper shop clothing when performing the procedures in this manual. Failing to do so may lead to possible injury or death.

CAUTION

Use caution when performing these procedures.

Coolant may be hot and may cause severe injury or burns.

NOTE: If the coolant level is LOW in the radiator, or if there are leaks in the system, the coolant system will not draw coolant from the reservoir tank.

NOTE: Use this procedure when a unit overheats and no apparent leaks in the cooling system are found.

PROCEDURE 1:

1.

Park machine on a level surface. Place the vehicle in neutral and set the parking brake.

CAUTION

Be sure the engine has cooled and no pressure is built up in the cooling system before removing the pressure cap. The coolant may be hot and could cause severe injury or burns.

2.

Remove pressure cap and top off coolant.

3.

Remove recovery bottle cap and fill bottle to the full line.

Pressure Cap

Recovery Bottle

4.

Leave the cap off of the radiator to allow any possible air to escape.

5.

Start the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes or until the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow through the system.

6.

Slightly loosen the bleed screw (C) on the thermostat cover to let air escape. If no air is present, a steady stream of coolant will stream out. If air is present, the screw will bubble and sputter as the air escapes.

Top LH Side of Engine

C

7.

Squeeze the coolant lines by hand to help purge the system of air.

8.

Add Polaris Premium Antifreeze to the radiator if the level goes down.

9.

Tighten the bleed screw to 70 ± 10 in.lbs. (8 ± 1.13 Nm) on the thermostat housing and properly install the pressure cap.

WARNING

Be sure to install the pressure cap before shutting off the engine.

Coolant may spit out of the radiator.

10. Stop the engine and let cool, top off the radiator filler neck with coolant. If you hear or see a “glug” at the filler neck, or there is a dropping of the coolant level, indicating that coolant has been pulled into the system; Fill the recovery bottle only after you have completely filled the cooling system at the radiator filler neck.

11. Repeat this procedure, if overheating still occurs.

If overheating occurs after repeating this procedure, proceed to Procedure 2.

3.14

ENGINE

PROCEDURE 2:

1.

Drive the vehicle onto a slight incline and use properly weight rated ramps.

2.

Place the vehicle in neutral and set the parking brake. Block the rear wheels.

GENERAL ENGINE SERVICE

Engine Lubrication Specifications

Pressure Cap

=

Capacity - Approximately 2 U.S. Quarts (1.9 L)

Oil Type - Polaris Premium 0W-40 Synthetic

Filter Wrench - PV-43527 or equivalent

- Oil Pressure Specification -

27-35 psi @ 6000 RPM, Polaris 0W-40

Synthetic, Engine at operating temperature.

3

CAUTION

Be sure the engine has cooled and there is no pressure built up in the cooling system before removing the pressure cap. The coolant maybe hot and could cause severe injury or burns.

3.

Remove the pressure cap and top off coolant. Fill the recovery bottle to the full line.

4.

Leave the cap off of the radiator to allow any possible air to escape. Start the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes or until the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow through the system.

NOTE: If there is air in the system you will see air bubbles forming through the radiator fill neck.

5.

Add coolant as needed. If no bubbles are seen at the filler neck, the system should be purged of air.

6.

Install the pressure cap and turn off the machine.

WARNING

Be sure to install the pressure cap before shutting off the engine.

Coolant may spit out of the radiator.

Accessible Engine Components

The following components can be serviced or removed with the engine installed:

• Starter Motor / Drive

• Cylinder Head

• Cylinder

• Piston / Rings

• Rocker Arms

• Water Pump

The following components require engine removal for service:

• Flywheel

• Alternator (Stator)

• Counterbalance Shaft or Bearings

• Gear Train Components

• Camshaft

• Oil Pump / Oil Pump Drive Gear

• Connecting Rod

• Crankshaft

• Crankshaft Main Bearings

• Crankcase

Oil Pressure Test

1.

Remove blind plug/sender from left side of crankcase.

2.

Insert a 1/8 NPT oil pressure gauge adaptor into the crankcase and attach the gauge.

3.

Start engine and allow it to reach operating temperature, monitoring gauge indicator.

Oil Pressure at Idle: 6 psi

Oil Pressure at 6000 RPM (Engine Hot):

Minimum: 27 psi

Standard: 31 psi

Maximum: 35 psi

3.15

ENGINE

Oil Flow Chart

This chart describes the flow of oil through the 800 EFI engine. Beginning in the crankcase sump, the oil is drawn through an oil galley to the feed side of the oil pump. The oil is then pumped through the oil filter. If the oil filter is obstructed, a bypass valve contained in the filter allows oil to bypass the filter element. At this point, the oil is supplied to the main oil galley through a crankcase passage. Oil is then diverted three ways from the main oil galley, with the first path entering the camshaft bores, onto the rear balance shaft journal and then draining back into the crankcase sump. The second oil path from the main oil galley feeds the lifter bores and then drains back to the crankcase sump. The third oil path flows through a crankcase galley to the MAG side crankshaft journal and also to the front balance shaft journal and onto the crankcase sump. The oil pressure switch is fed off the main oil galley.

3.16

ENGINE

Engine Removal

Because of its design configuration, Polaris recommends removing the engine, transmission, and rear gearcase as one assembly. Use the following procedure when engine removal is required.

IMPORTANT: Some engine repair procedures can be performed without removing the RZR engine assembly from the vehicle. Refer to “Accessible

Engine Components” on Page 3.15 for further information.

NOTE: The use of an overhead or portable engine hoist is the only recommended method for removing and installing the engine / transmission / rear gearcase assembly.

NOTE: Have an assistant help guide the engine in and out of the vehicle while using an engine hoist to prevent personal injury or damage to vehicle components.

8.

Remove the (2) push rivets from the rear of the center console.

9.

Remove the (2) fasteners from the rear seat base and remove the assembly from the vehicle.

3

WARNING

Always wear safety glasses and proper shop clothing when performing the procedures in this manual. Failing to do so may lead to possible injury or death.

1.

If vehicle was recently operated, allow it to cool down before attempting to perform any work.

2.

Clean work area.

3.

Thoroughly clean the engine and chassis.

4.

Drain appropriate lubricant(s):

• If servicing the engine, drain engine oil.

• If servicing the transmission, drain the lubricant from the main gearcase and transfer case.

• If servicing the rear gearcase, drain the gearcase lubricant.

5.

Remove the driver and passenger seats (see Chapter 5).

6.

Disconnect (-) negative battery cable.

7.

Remove the rear service panel (see Chapter 5).

10. Remove the rear plastic bumper, rear cargo box and box supports from the vehicle (see Chapter 5).

11. Remove the (2) push rivets and remove the intake box from the vehicle.

Remove

Push Rivets

3.17

ENGINE

12. Elevate the rear of the vehicle off the ground using a suitable ATV lift and remove both rear wheels.

13. Remove all exhaust components from vehicle and engine.

14. Loosen the hose clamp attaching the outlet duct to the PVT cover. Leave the duct attached to the upper frame support.

18. Remove the (6) fasteners retaining the upper bolt-in frame brace and remove it from the vehicle with the ignition coil and PVT duct attached.

Frame Brace

Ignition

Coil

PVT Duct

Outlet Duct

PVT Cover

15. Remove the (8) screws that retain the PVT cover and remove cover.

16. Remove the high tension leads from the spark plugs and disconnect the ignition coil harness.

19. Remove the upper nut and grommet from the stabilizer bar linkage on both sides of the vehicle.

Harness

Connection

20. Remove the (4) fasteners retaining the stabilizer bar and bracket and remove the assembly from the vehicle.

17. Remove the vent lines from the upper bolt-in frame brace and plug vent lines to prevent fluid leakage during removal.

21. Remove the engine breather hose from the valve cover.

3.18

ENGINE

22. Loosen the hose clamp between the throttle body and intake adaptor.

Loosen

Clamp

25. Remove the airbox and throttle body from the vehicle as an assembly. Take care in not allowing the throttle cable to bend excessively or kink. Carefully place the assembly on the floor next to the vehicle. Insert a shop towel into the engine intake adaptor to prevent dirt from entering the engine.

23. Disconnect the T-MAP and TPS harnesses (see photo).

excessively bent or kinked while removed from the vehicle.

26. Mark the fuel injector harnesses to identify MAG and PTO harness connections to aid during reassembly. Disconnect the fuel injector harnesses.

NOTE: The Bosch harness connector and locking spring is bonded to the fuel injectors with an epoxy mix. DO NOT attempt to disconnect the Bosch connector from the fuel injectors. Damage will occur to the injector and/or harness if attempting to separate at that location. Separate the fuel injector from the vehicle by disconnecting at the end of the harness as shown.

Fuel

Injector

Disconnect Here

Harness

3

DO NOT

Disconnect Here

24. Remove the remaining bolt attaching the airbox to the frame (see photo).

27. Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel injector rail.

28. Disconnect the shift cable from the transmission bell crank.

Remove

Clip

3.19

ENGINE

29. Mark the upper jam nut and loosen the lower jam nut. Pull the shift cable out of the mount.

Mark Upper

Jam Nut

32. Disconnect the stator / alternator harness.

Stator

Connector

Lower

Jam Nut

NOTE: If the upper jam nut is moved, shift cable adjustment will be required during engine installation (see Chapter 2 “Shift Cable Inspection /

Adjustment”).

30. Disconnect the transmission gear indicator switch harness.

Gear Switch

Connector

33. Disconnect the transmission speed sensor harness.

Speed Sensor

Connector

34. Remove the castle nuts from both rear wheel hubs.

31. Disconnect the CPS harness.

CPS

Connector

Castle Nut

3.20

ENGINE

35. Remove the through-bolt that attaches the upper A-arm to the rear hub on both sides of the vehicle.

38. Disconnect the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor harness.

ECT

Connector

3

36. Pivot the A-arms upward and rear hub carriers downward and remove the drive shafts from the hub carriers.

39. Loosen the hose clamp and remove the lower coolant hose from the water pump cover inlet and drain coolant into a suitable container.

Hub Carrier

37. Grasp the rear drive shafts and pull sharply outward on the shafts to disengage them from the rear gearcase.

40. Remove the filler neck pressure cap to relieve the cooling system vacuum.

NOTE: Use a portable wet-vac or syphon to prevent any coolant from spilling.

41. Remove the upper coolant hose from the thermostat housing outlet to relieve any coolant vacuum created in the engine. Allow engine coolant to completely drain.

Properly dispose of the engine coolant / antifreeze.

42. Remove the (+) positive battery cable from the starter motor terminal and (-) negative battery cable from the starter motor engine mount.

43. Remove the outer PVT cover.

NOTE: Clean area around drive shaft orifices on both sides of rear gearcase and cover orifices using duct tape. This will prevent the lubricant from leaking out during removal.

3.21

ENGINE

44. Remove RH engine mount fastener.

47. Using an engine hoist, hook a chain between the engine / transmission mounting plate and the transmission / rear gearcase mounting plate.

45. Remove LH transmission mount fastener.

Engine/Transmission

Mount Plate

Transmission/Gearcase

Mount Plate

46. Remove the (2) rear gearcase mount bracket fasteners and mount bolt and remove bracket from vehicle.

NOTE: Have an assistant help guide the engine in and out of the vehicle while using an engine hoist to prevent personal injury or damage to vehicle components.

48. Lift the front portion of the assembly out first to allow the engine valve cover to clear the vehicle frame.

Allow valve cover to clear frame

NOTE: The use of an overhead or portable engine hoist is the only recommended method for removing and installing the engine / transmission / rear gearcase assembly.

3.22

ENGINE

49. Remove propshaft from the transmission output shaft.

50. Then move assembly towards the front of the vehicle while lifting it out to allow the rear gearcase to clear the rear portion of the frame.

51. Then lift assembly high enough to clear vehicle frame and completely remove it from the vehicle to a work bench.

3.

Remove only the (4) outer fasteners retaining the engine to the transmission bracket.

3

4.

Tilt the assembly up and remove the remaining (2) nuts that retain the transmission to the engine.

Engine / Transmission Separation

Once the engine / transmission / rear gearcase assembly has been removed from the vehicle, the engine and transmission will need to be separated to allow engine servicing. Use the following procedure to separate the engine from the assembly.

1.

Remove the drive belt, drive clutch and driven clutch (see

Chapter 6).

2.

Remove the (6) fasteners retaining the inner clutch cover to the engine and transmission.

5.

Carefully separate the engine and perform the required service (see “Engine Disassembly and Inspection”).

3.23

ENGINE

ENGINE DISASSEMBLY AND INSPECTION

Cylinder Head Assembly Exploded View

Rocker Arms

Retainer Locks (keepers)

Spring Retainers

Springs

Valve Seals

Valve Spring Seats

Cylinder Head

Push Rods

Hydraulic Lifters

Valves

3.24

ENGINE

Rocker Arms

1.

Remove the valve cover.

2.

Mark or tag rocker arms in order of disassembly to keep them in order for reassembly.

5.

If the push rod (A) is visibly bent, it should be replaced.

A

3.

Inspect the wear pad at the valve end of the rocker arm for indications of scuffing or abnormal wear. If the pad is grooved, replace the rocker arm.

NOTE: Do not attempt to true this surface by grinding.

4.

Check the rocker arm pad and fulcrum seat for excessive wear, cracks, nicks or burrs.

Push Rods

1.

Clean push rods (A) in a suitable solvent. Blow dry push rods with compressed air.

2.

Use compressed air to confirm the oil passage is clear in the center of the push rod.

Cylinder Head Removal

NOTE: The cargo box assembly and the upper frame bolt-in brace must be removed to allow enough clearance to remove all the cylinder head bolts.

Refer to Chapter 5 for removal procedures.

1.

Loosen the six cylinder head bolts evenly 1/8 turn each in a criss-cross pattern until loose.

2.

Remove bolts (A) and tap cylinder head (B) lightly with a soft face hammer until loose. CAUTION: Tap only in reinforced areas or on thick parts of cylinder head casting to avoid damaging the head or cylinder.

3.

Remove cylinder head (B) and head gasket (C) from the cylinder (D).

WARNING

Always wear safety glasses when working with compressed air to prevent personal injury.

3.

Check the ends of the push rods (A) for nicks, grooves, roughness or excessive wear.

4.

The push rods (A) can be visually checked for straightness while they are installed in the engine by rotating them with the valve closed. Push rods can also be checked with a dial indicator or rolled across a flat surface to check for straightness.

A

B

C

D

3.25

3

ENGINE

Cylinder Head Inspection

Thoroughly clean cylinder head surface to remove all traces of gasket material and carbon.

CAUTION

Use care not to damage sealing surface.

Cylinder Head Warp

1.

Lay a straight edge (A) across the surface of the cylinder head (B) at several different points and measure warp by inserting a feeler gauge between the straight edge and the cylinder head surface. If warp exceeds the service limit, replace the cylinder head.

A

Measure at different points on the surface.

B

Valve Seal / Spring Service (On Engine)

NOTE: The following procedure is only for servicing the top end of the valve train when replacing valve springs or replacing valve seals.

In some cases the valve train can be serviced while the cylinder head is still on the engine. Keep all parts in order with respect to their location in the cylinder head.

WARNING

Wear eye protection or a face shield during cylinder head disassembly and reassembly.

1.

Having already removed the valve cover, rocker arms and pushrods, align the cylinder to be worked on at top dead center (TDC). Install the Valve Pressure Hose (PU-

45652) into the spark plug hole. Hook the hose to an air compressor and supply 50 to 100 psi to the hose. This will seat the valves during valve spring removal. Do not remove air from the hose at anytime until reassembly is completed.

2.

Using the Valve Spring Compressor (PU-45257) , compress the valve spring and remove the valve keepers.

NOTE: A small parts magnet (A) can aid in the removal of the retainers (B).

B

= In. / mm.

Cylinder Head Warp Limit:

.004" (.1016 mm) max

A

PU-45257

NOTE: To prevent damage to the valve seals, do not compress the valve spring more than is needed to remove the valve keepers.

3.

Remove spring retainer and spring.

4.

The valve seals are now serviceable.

3.26

Cylinder Head Disassembly

1.

Carefully remove the cylinder components.

ENGINE

4.

Remove valve guide seals.

IMPORTANT: It is recommended to replace seals whenever the cylinder head is disassembled.

Hardened, cracked or worn valve seals will cause excessive oil consumption and carbon buildup.

5.

Mark the valves with a white pen. Remove the valves from the cylinder head. This will ensure that the valves are properly placed during engine reassembly.

3

Mark the Valves

2.

Place the hydraulic lifters (C), pushrods (D), and rocker arms (E) in a safe, clean area.

C D

E

3.

Measure free length of spring with a Vernier caliper.

Compare to specifications. Replace spring if measurement is out of specification.

Valve Spring

Free Length

= In. / mm.

Valve Spring Free Length:

Std: 1.735" (44.069 mm)

3.27

ENGINE

Valve Inspection

1.

Remove all carbon from valves with a soft wire wheel or brush.

2.

Check valve face for runout, pitting, and burnt spots. To check for bent valve stems, mount valve in a drill or use “V” blocks and a dial indicator.

= In. / mm.

Valve Stem Diameter:

Intake: 0.2356" + 0.00039"

(5.985 + 0.01 mm)

Exhaust: 0.2351" + 0.00039"

(5.972 + 0.01 mm)

6.

Measure valve guide (C) inside diameter at the top middle and end of the guide using a small hole gauge and a micrometer. Measure in two directions.

C

3.

Check end of valve stem for flaring, pitting, wear or damage

(A).

A

B

= In. / mm.

4.

Inspect split keeper groove for wear or flaring of the keeper seat area (B).

NOTE: The valves can be re-faced or end ground, if necessary. They must be replaced if extensively worn, burnt, bent, or damaged.

5.

Measure diameter of valve stem with a micrometer in three places, then rotate 90 degrees and measure again (six measurements total). Compare to specifications.

Measure valve stem in several places.

Rotate the valve 90 degrees and measure for wear.

Valve Guide I.D.:

0.23672" + 0.000295"

(6.0617 + 0.0075 mm)

7.

Subtract valve stem measurement from the valve guide measurement to obtain stem to guide clearance. NOTE:

The valve guides cannot be replaced. Be sure to measure each guide and valve combination individually.

3.28

Combustion Chamber

1.

Clean all accumulated carbon deposits from combustion chamber and valve seat area with carbon cleaner and a soft plastic scraper.

IMPORTANT: Do not use a wire brush, metal scraper, or abrasive cleaners to clean the bottom of the cylinder head. Extensive damage to the cylinder head may result. Wear safety glasses during cleaning.

Combustion Area

ENGINE

NOTE: Valve seat width and point of contact on the valve face is very important for proper sealing. The valve must contact the valve seat over the entire circumference of the seat, and the seat must be the proper width all the way around. If the seat is uneven, compression leakage will result. If the seat is too wide, seat pressure is reduced, causing carbon accumulation and possible compression loss. If the seat is too narrow, heat transfer from valve to seat is reduced. The valve may overheat and warp, resulting in burnt valves.

3

Valve Seat Reconditioning

NOTE: Polaris recommends that the work be done by a local machine shop that specializes in this area.

NOTE: The cylinder head valve guides cannot be replaced.

1.

Install pilot into valve guide.

2.

Apply cutting oil to valve seat and cutter.

3.

Place 46

°

cutter on the pilot and make a light cut.

WARNING

Wear eye protection or a face shield during cylinder head disassembly and reassembly.

Valve Seat Inspection

Inspect valve seat in cylinder head for pitting, burnt spots, roughness, and uneven surface. If any of the above conditions exist, the valve seat must be reconditioned. If the valve seat is cracked the cylinder head must be replaced.

Follow the manufacturers instructions provided with the valve seat cutters in the Cylinder Head Reconditioning Kit (PN

2200634) . Abrasive stone seat reconditioning equipment can also be used. Keep all valves in order with their respective seat.

3.29

ENGINE

4.

Inspect the cut area of the seat:

* If the contact area is less than 75% of the circumference of the seat, rotate the pilot 180

°

and make another light cut.

* If the cutter now contacts the uncut portion of the seat, check the pilot. Look for burrs, nicks, or runout. If the pilot is bent it must be replaced.

* If the contact area of the cutter is in the same place, the valve guide is distorted from improper installation

* If the contact area of the initial cut is greater than 75%, continue to cut the seat until all pits are removed and a new seat surface is evident. NOTE: Remove only the amount of material necessary to repair the seat surface.

5.

To check the contact area of the seat on the valve face, apply a thin coating of Prussian Blue

™

paste to the valve seat. If using an interference angle (46

°

) apply black permanent marker to the entire valve face (A).

NOTE: When using an interference angle, the seat contact point on the valve will be very narrow, and is a normal condition. Look for an even and continuous contact point all the way around the valve face (A).

B

Bottom 60

°

Proper Seat Contact on Valve Face

Seat 45

°

A

Top 30

°

A

6.

Insert valve into guide and tap valve lightly into place a few times.

7.

Remove valve and check where the Prussian Blue

™ indicates seat contact on the valve face. The valve seat should contact the middle of the valve face or slightly above, and must be the proper width.

* If the indicated seat contact is at the top edge of the valve face and contacts the margin area (B) it is too high on the valve face.

Use the 30

°

cutter to lower the valve seat.

* If too low, use the 60

°

cutter to raise the seat. When contact area is centered on the valve face, measure seat width.

* If the seat is too wide or uneven, use both top and bottom cutters to narrow the seat.

* If the seat is too narrow, widen using the 45

°

cutter and recheck contact point on the valve face and seat width after each cut.

3.30

= In. / mm.

Valve Seat Width:

Intake Std: .028" (.7 mm)

Limit: .055" (1.4 mm)

Exhaust Std: .039I (1.0 mm)

Limit: .071" (1.8 mm)

Seat

Width

8.

Clean all filings from the area with hot soapy water. Rinse and dry with compressed air.

9.

Lubricate the valve guides with clean engine oil, and apply oil or water based lapping compound to the face of the valve.

NOTE: Lapping is not required with an interference angle valve job.

10. Insert the valve into its respective guide and lap using a lapping tool or a section of fuel line connected to the valve stem.

ENGINE

Cylinder Head Reassembly

NOTE: Assemble the valves one at a time to maintain proper order.

1.

Apply engine oil to valve guides and seats.

2.

Coat valve stem with molybdenum disulfide grease or

0W-40 Synthetic oil.

3.

Install valve carefully with a rotating motion to avoid damaging valve seal.

4.

Valve seals should be installed after the valves are in the head to avoid valve seal damage. Install new valve seals on valve guides.

5.

Dip valve spring and retainer in clean engine oil and install.

6.

Place retainer on spring and install Valve Spring

Compressor (PU-45257) . Install split keepers with the gap even on both sides.

NOTE: A small magnet can be used to aid in the installation of the keepers.

PU-45257

3

11. Rotate the valve rapidly back and forth until the cut sounds smooth. Lift the valve slightly off of the seat, rotate 1/4 turn, and repeat the lapping process. Do this four to five times until the valve is fully seated, and repeat process for the other valve(s).

12. Thoroughly clean cylinder head and valves.

7.

Repeat procedure for remaining valves. When all valves are installed, tap lightly with soft faced hammer on the end of the valves to seat the split keepers.

NOTE: To prevent damage to the valve seals, do not compress the valve spring more than necessary to install the keepers.

3.31

ENGINE

Valve Sealing Test

1.

Clean and dry the combustion chamber area (A).

A

Valve Lifter Removal / Inspection

1.

Remove the valve lifters by reaching into the crankcase and pushing the lifter up through the lifter bore by hand.

2.

Thoroughly clean the lifters in cleaning solvent and wipe them with a clean, lint-free cloth.

3.

Mark the lifters with a white pen if using the lifters for reassembly. This will ensure that the lifters are properly placed during engine reassembly.

Mark Hydraulic Lifter

2.

Pour a small amount of clean solvent onto the intake port and check for leakage around each intake valve. The valve seats should hold fluid with no seepage.

3.

Repeat for exhaust valves by pouring fluid into exhaust port.

Cylinder Removal

1.

Follow engine disassembly procedures to remove rocker cover and cylinder head.

2.

Tap cylinder (A) lightly with a rubber mallet in the reinforced areas only until loose.

3.

Rock cylinder forward and backward while lifting it from the crankcase, supporting pistons and connecting rods.

Support pistons with Piston Support Block (PN 2870390).

4.

Check the lifters for wear or scores.

5.

Check the bottom end of lifter to make sure that it has a slight convex.

6.

If the bottom surface has worn flat, it may be used with the original camshaft only.

A

Inspect Hydraulic Lifter

NOTE: Lifters that are scored, worn, or if the bottom is not smooth should be replaced with new lifters and cam as an assembly. If replacing the lifters, the camshaft should also be replaced.

3.32

Piston Removal

1.

Remove circlip (A). Mark the piston with a white pen to ensure proper orientation (if reused) during assembly.

ENGINE

The oil control ring is a three piece design consisting of a top and bottom steel rail and a center expander section. The top rail has a locating tab on the end which fits into a notch (B) in the upper oil ring land of the piston.

To Remove:

A) Remove the top rail first followed by the bottom rail.

B) Remove the expander.

Compression

Rings

B 3

Oil Ring

NOTE: If the pistons are to be reused, reassemble the pistons in the same cylinder and direction from which they were removed.

NOTE: New pistons are non-directional and can be placed in either cylinder.

2.

Remove piston circlip and push piston pin out of piston. If necessary, heat the crown of the piston slightly with a propane torch. CAUTION: Do not apply heat to the piston rings. The ring may lose radial tension.

3.

Remove top compression ring:

* Using a piston ring pliers: Carefully expand ring and lift it off the piston. CAUTION: Do not expand the ring more than the amount necessary to remove it from the piston, or the ring may break.

*By hand: Placing both thumbs as shown, spread the ring open and push up on the opposite side. Do not scratch the ring lands.

4.

Repeat procedure for second ring.

5.

Remove the oil control ring.

3.33

ENGINE

Cylinder Inspection

1.

Remove all gasket material from the cylinder sealing surfaces.

2.

Inspect the top of the cylinder (B) for warp using a straight edge (A) and feeler gauge (C). Refer to Ill. 1 and Ill. 2.

A

3.

Inspect cylinder for wear, scratches, or damage.

3.34

A

B

B

Measure at different points on surface.

4.

Inspect cylinder for taper and out of round with a telescoping gauge or a dial bore gauge. Measure in two different directions, front to back and side to side, on three different levels (1/2, down from top, in the middle, and 1/

2, up from bottom). Record measurements. If cylinder is tapered or out of round beyond .002", the cylinder must be replaced.

1/2” Down From Top of Cylinder

C

= In. / mm.

Cylinder Warp: .004" (0.1 mm) Max.

1/2” Up From Bottom

= In. / mm.

Cylinder Taper Limit:

.002" (9.05mm) Max.

Cylinder Out of Round:

Limit: .002" (.0 mm) Max.

Standard Bore Size

(Both Cylinders): 3.1496

"

(80 mm)

ENGINE

If cylinder wear or damage is excessive, it will be necessary to replace the cylinder. The cylinders are lined with a nicasil coating and are not repairable. Hone only enough to de-glaze the outer layer of the cylinder bore.

Cylinder Hone Selection and Honing

Procedure

Cylinders may be wet or dry honed depending upon the hone manufacturer’s recommendations. Wet honing removes more material faster and leaves a more distinct pattern in the bore.

CAUTION

A hone which will straighten as well as remove material from the cylinder is very important.

Using a common spring loaded glaze breaker for honing is not advised for nicasil cylinders.

Polaris recommends using a rigid hone or arbor honing machine. Cylinders may be wet or dry honed depending upon the hone manufacturer's recommendations.

Wet honing removes more material faster and leaves a more distinct pattern in the bore.

Example of Cross Hatch Pattern

IMPORTANT: Clean the cylinder after honing

If cylinder wear or damage is excessive, it will be necessary to replace the cylinder. The cylinders are lined with a nicasil coating and are not repairable. Hone only enough to de-glaze the outer layer of the cylinder bore.

Honing To Deglaze

A finished cylinder should have a cross-hatch pattern to ensure piston ring seating and to aid in the retention of the fuel/oil mixture during initial break in. Hone cylinder according to hone manufacturer's instructions, or these guidelines:

• Honing should be done with a diamond hone. Cylinder could be damaged if the hone is not hard enough to scratch the nicasil lining.

• Use a motor speed of approximately 300-500 RPM, run the hone in and out of the cylinder rapidly until cutting tension decreases. Remember to keep the hone drive shaft centered (or cylinder centered on arbor) and to bring the stones approximately 1/2” (1.3 cm) above and below the bore at the end of each stroke.

• Release the hone at regular intervals and inspect the bore to determine if it has been sufficiently de-glazed, and to check for correct cross-hatch.

NOTE: Do not allow cylinder to heat up during honing.

• After honing has been completed, inspect cylinder for thinning or peeling.

Cleaning the Cylinder After Honing

It is very important that the cylinder be thoroughly cleaned after honing to remove all grit material. Wash the cylinder in a solvent, then in hot, soapy water. Pay close attention to areas where the cylinder sleeve meets the aluminum casting (transfer port area). Use electrical contact cleaner if necessary to clean these areas. Rinse thoroughly, dry with compressed air, and oil the bore immediately with Polaris Lubricant.

3

3.35

ENGINE

Piston-to-Cylinder Clearance

Measure piston outside diameter at a point 5 mm up from the bottom of the piston at a right angle to the direction of the piston pin.

Subtract this measurement from the maximum cylinder measurement obtained in Step 5.

5 mm

2.

Measure piston pin O.D. Replace piston and/or piston pin if out of tolerance.

Piston Pin Measurement Locations

Piston

Piston Pin

Piston to Cylinder Clearance:

See “800 EFI Engine Service

Specifications” on page 3.9

Piston O.D.:



Piston / Rod Inspection

1.

Measure piston pin bore.

Piston Pin O.D.:



3.

Measure connecting rod small end ID.

Connecting Rod Small End I.D.:



Piston Pin Bore:



3.36

4.

Measure piston ring to groove clearance by placing the ring in the ring land and measuring with a thickness gauge.

Replace piston and rings if ring-to-groove clearance exceeds service limits.

Piston

Ring

Feeler Gauge



Piston Ring Installed Gap

1.

Place each piston ring (A) inside cylinder (B) using piston to push ring squarely into place as shown.

ENGINE

3.

If the bottom installed gap measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the rings. If ring gap is smaller than the specified limit, file ring ends until gap is within specified range.

NOTE: Always check piston ring installed gap after re-boring a cylinder or when installing new rings. A re-bored cylinder should always be scrubbed thoroughly with hot soapy water, rinsed, and dried completely. Wipe cylinder bore with oil immediately to remove residue and prevent rust.

Starter Drive Bendix Removal / Inspection

1.

Remove stator housing bolts and remove housing.

2.

Remove the flywheel nut and washer. Install Flywheel

Puller (PN 2871043) and remove flywheel.

NOTE: Do not thread the puller bolts into the flywheel more than 1/4, or stator coils may be damaged.

3.

Remove starter bendix assembly (A). Note the thrust washers located on both sides of the bendix.

3

A

C

B

25-50 mm

A

Piston Ring Installed Gap



NOTE: Ring should be installed with the mark facing upward.

2.

Measure installed gap with a feeler gauge (C) at both the top and bottom of the cylinder.

4.

Inspect the thrust washer for wear or damage and replace if necessary.

5.

After the bendix is removed, remove the two bolts retaining the starter. Tap on the starter assembly (B) with a soft faced mallet to loosen the starter from the crankcase.

B cylinder taper. The cylinder should be measured for excessive taper and out of round.

3.37

ENGINE

6.

Inspect gear teeth on starter drive (A). Replace starter drive if gear teeth are cracked, worn, or broken.

7.

Inspect the bendix bushing (C) in the mag cover for wear.

Replace as needed.

C

Flywheel / Stator Removal / Inspection

1.

Remove stator housing bolts and remove housing.

2871043 A

4.

Use caution when removing the wire holddown (B) and the stator assembly (D). Do not tap or bump the gear /stator housing cover or the stator.

This could cause the seal around the gear/stator housing cover and the crankcase to break, causing a leak.

Remove Stator

Cover

2.

Remove flywheel nut and washer.

3.

Install Flywheel Puller (PN 2871043) and remove flywheel

(A).

CAUTION

Do not thread the puller bolts into the flywheel more than 1/4, or stator coils may be damaged.

E D

B

5.

Remove the bendix (E) if necessary.

Engine Crankcase Disassembly / Inspection

1.

Remove the stator cover (A) and water pump cover (B).

B

A

3.38

ENGINE

2.

Remove the nylok nut (C), washer (D), and water pump impeller (E). Remove part of the water pump seal behind the impeller.

5.

Remove the starter bendix (G), wire holddown plate (H), and the woodruff key (I) from the crankshaft. The stator does not have to be removed at this point.

I

E

C

D

3.

Remove flywheel nut and washer.

4.

Install Flywheel Puller (PN 2871043) and remove flywheel

(F).

CAUTION

Do not thread the puller bolts into the flywheel more than 1/4, or stator coils may be damaged.

G

H

6.

Remove the gear/stator housing bolts and remove the gear/ stator housing cover (J) and gasket from the crankcase. Be sure to catch the excess oil from the crankcase.

3

2871043 F

J

7.

Note the positions of the gears in the photo.

Camshaft Gear

Crank Gear

Counterbalance Gear

3.39

ENGINE

8.

Use a white pen to accent the timing marks on the following gears: camshaft gear (K), crankshaft gear (M), or counterbalance gear (N) This will ensure proper gear alignment and timing during reassembly of the gears.

K

Timing Marks

Water Pump Gear

CAUTION

Wear safety glasses at all times. Use caution when working with the top gear.

The springs could cause injury or become lost should they pop out.

12. Remove all three springs using one of the tapered pins from the Tapered Pins (PU-45497-1) .

N

M recommended that all of the gears be replaced. A gear kit is available.

9.

Use the Cam Gear Tooth Alignment Tool (PU-45497-2)

(O) to align the cam split gear assembly. With the split gear aligned, remove the bolt and cam gear assembly.

NOTE: Install the Cam Gear Tooth Alignment Tool

(PU-45497-2) into the assembly hole counter clockwise from the timing mark as shown.

10. Inspect the cam gear teeth and check to make sure there is spring tension offsetting the teeth between the two gears.

If there is no tension, check the springs inside of the cam gear assembly.

3 Loaded Springs

PU-45497-1

13. With a white marking pen, accent the timing mark on the gear that contains the springs.

11. The cam gear assembly contains three loaded springs. To open the cam gear assembly:

• Place the cam gear on a flat surface with the timing mark side facing up.

• While holding both gears together, lightly work a small flathead screwdriver between the two gears.

• Remove the top gear. The springs should stay in place.

3.40

Accent Timing Marks

14. Inspect the gear teeth and the three tabs on the gears for wear.

Inspect Teeth & Tabs

ENGINE

To Assemble:

• Hold the spring with one finger.

• Start the pointed end of the tapered pin into the cam gear hole. Slowly push the dowel through the hole until the end of the dowel is almost flush with the spring.

• Perform this procedure with all three tapered pins.

• Do not push the pins too far through or the springs will pop out.

NOTE: Do not remove the tapered pins at this time.

17. Note in photograph that the Tapered Pins (PU-45497-1) are below flush with end of the springs. This helps to align the three gear tabs during the next step.

3

Replace 3 Springs

15. Install the new springs into the grooves of the cam gear.

Install Springs

PU-45497-1

16. Insert the pointed dowels from the Tapered Pins (PU-

45497-1) into the cam gear.

Cam Gear Spring Installation Tool Kit:

(PU-45497)

Tapered Pins:

(PU-45497-1)

Cam Gear Tooth Align Tool:

(PU-45497-2)

18. Line up the two gears using the timing marks and the three gear tabs that were referenced earlier. Push the gears back together, using both hands and hold securely.

Align Timing Marks

PU-45497-1

3.41

ENGINE

19. Once the gears are pressed together, firmly hold the gears together with one hand. Carefully remove the Tapered Pins

(PU-45497-1) by pulling them out one at a time with the other hand.

21. To remove the balance shaft gear, the flat side of the camshaft (P) must face the balance shaft gear. To rotate the camshaft, use the Cam Spanner Wrench (PU-45498) to rotate the camshaft so the flat side of the camshaft faces the balance shaft gear.

PU-45498

P

20. After the tapered pins are removed, be sure the cam gear assembly is held together tightly. Place the cam gear assembly on a flat surface. Use the Cam Gear Tooth

Alignment Tool (PU-45497-2) to align the teeth of the cam gears, as shown in the picture.

NOTE: Install the Cam Gear Alignment Tool (PU-

45497-2) into one assembly hole counter clockwise from the timing mark.

NOTE: This Cam Spanner Wrench (PU-45498) is only needed to rotate the camshaft when the entire valve train is assembled. If the rocker arms are removed, the cam-shaft can be turned by hand.

22. Remove the bolt and nut from the balance shaft gear. Try to remove the balance shaft gear. If the gear does not come off manually, use the Flywheel Puller (PN 2871043) to remove the balance shaft gear.

2871043

PU-45497-2

Alignment Tool (PU-45497-2), use a twisting motion when pushing down on the tool.

3.42

ENGINE

23. Inspect the crankshaft gear (Q) for broken or worn teeth. If the crankshaft gear does not need to be replaced, it does not need to be removed. If the crankshaft gear is damaged, remove the crankshaft gear with the Flywheel Puller

(PN 2871043).

26. Rotate the water/oil pump gear (S), so that all four bolts are visible though the gear. Remove the four bolts with a hex wrench. Pull out the pump.

S

Q 3

24. Install the two puller bolts (R). Tighten the puller bolts up so that the bolts are at equal length.

27. Inspect the oil pump rotors for wear. Mark the rotors with a white pen to ensure upon reassembly that the correct sides of the rotors are installed and mesh with the same edges as previously installed.

Mark Rotors

R

25. Install the Flywheel Puller ( PN 2871043 ) and remove the crankshaft gear, if needed.

2871043

NOTE: If replacing the old rotors, new replacement rotors will fit into the original oil/water pump housing.

28. Use a feeler gauge to measure the clearance between the two rotors. Measure the gap between the two rotor tips as shown below. The clearance should not exceed 0.006"

(0.15 mm) .

Max Tip Clearance

0.006” (0.15 mm)

3.43

ENGINE

29. Remove the oil pressure relief. The oil pressure relief consists of a bolt, washer, spring, and valve (dowel).

Inspect the valve (dowel) for signs of possible obstructions.

Use compressed air to blow out any debris.

31. Carefully press the gear off the assembly while supporting the housing assembly.

Press Off Gear

30. Reinstall the valve (dowel chamfered end first). Install the spring, washer, and bolt. Torque to specification .

22 ± 2 ft. lbs.

(30 ± 3 Nm).

Chamfer

End First

CAUTION

Wear appropriate safety gear during this procedure. Protective gloves, clothing and eye wear are required.

32. Remove the snap ring from the assembly. Place the housing in a support and press out the bearing/shaft assembly.

Press out shaft and bearing assembly.

Bearing

= T

22

±

2 ft. lbs. (30

±

3 Nm)

NOTE: Be sure to place the tapered end of the valve

(dowel) in first. If the valve is installed incorrectly, oil pressure and oil priming problems will occur.

Retaining Ring

33. Place the shaft in a press to remove the bearing.

Press Off Bearing

3.44

34. Press shaft into the new bearing..

Press On Bearing

37. Remove thrust plate (U).

U

ENGINE

35. Press the bearing/shaft assembly using the bearing's outer race. Do not use the shaft to press the assembly into the housing, as bearing damage may result. Install retaining ring.

Press Bearing / Shaft

Assembly using outer race only

38. Remove PTO end engine mount. Remove crankcase bolts.

Tap on the reinforced areas on the cases using soft hammer.

Carefully separate the two crankcase halves.

Separate

Crankcase Halves

3

36. Press gear onto shaft while supporting the housing.

NOTE: Only remove the oil baffle if the baffle is damaged. When removing the oil baffle bolts, use a heat gun to heat the bolts and loosen the Loctite ™ .

This will prevent any possible damage to the bolts or to the crankcase casting.

3.45

ENGINE

39. Remove and clean oil pick up (V) and oil baffle weldment

(W).

W

Camshaft Inspection

1.

Thoroughly clean the cam shaft.

2.

Visually inspect each cam lobe for wear, chafing or damage.

3.

Measure height of each cam lobe using a micrometer.

Compare to specification.

V

40. Remove balance shaft and crankshaft.

Cam Lobe Height

41. Remove and inspect crankshaft main journal bearings for abnormal wear. It is recommended to replace the bearings anytime the engine is disassembled .

= In. / mm.

Cam Lobe Height

(Intake & Exhaust):

Std: 1.3334" (33.8674 mm)

4.

Measure camshaft journal outside diameters (O.D.).

C

B

A

= In. / mm.

Camshaft Journal O.D. :

A. (Mag): 1.654" ± .00039" (42 ± .010 mm)

B. (Ctr.): 1.634" ± .00039" (41.50 ± .010 mm)

C. (PTO): 1.614" ± .00039" (41 ± .010 mm)

3.46

ENGINE

5.

Measure ID of camshaft journal bores.

ENGINE REASSEMBLY

Crankcase Reassembly

= In. / mm.

Camshaft Journal Bore I.D.:

(Mag): 1.656" ± 0.00039" (42.07± 0.010 mm)

(Ctr.) 1.637" ± 0.00039" (41.58 ± 0.010 mm)

(PTO) 1.617" ± 0.00039" (41.07 ± 0.010 mm)

6.

Calculate oil clearance by subtracting journal O.D.s from journal bore I.D.s. Compare to specification.

= In. / mm.

Calculated Camshaft Oil Clearance:

Std: 0.0027" (.070mm)

Limit: .0039" (.10 mm)

NOTE: Replace camshaft if damaged or if any part is worn past the service limit.

NOTE: Replace engine block if camshaft journal bores are damaged or worn excessively.

CAUTION

After any reassembly or rebuild, the engine must be primed using the Oil Priming Adapter

(PU-45778) and a 3/4-full oil filter before initial start-up (see “Oil Pump Priming”).

NOTE: Before assembly, clean the bolts and bolt holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing bolts.

1.

Install oil pick up (A), if removed. Torque to specification.

3

B

A

2.

Install oil baffle weldment (B). Torque bolts to specification.

= T

Oil Baffle Weldment & Oil Pick Up Bolt Torque:

60 ± 6 in. lbs. (6.8 ± 0.68 Nm)

3.

Install the balance shaft. Inspect balance shaft clearance

(C) in both gearcase halves. Rotate balance shaft to ensure there is clearance between it and the oil baffle weldment.

C

3.47

ENGINE

NOTE: Always install new balance shaft bearings.

4.

Apply assembly lube to cam journals and balance shaft bearing surfaces of the MAG case halve. Install camshaft and balance shaft.

7.

Assemble the crankcase halves. Apply LocTite™ 242 (PN

2871949) to the threads and pipe sealant to the bolt flanges.

Torque bolts to specification following torque pattern at beginning of this chapter.

= T

Crankcase Bolt Torque:

22 + 2 ft. lbs. (30 + 3 Nm)

Torque in sequence

8.

Lubricate cam lobes and valve lifters with Moly Lube

Grease.

Apply Moly Lube

Cam Lobes

5.

Install crankshaft assembly and apply engine oil to crank pins and rods (D). Apply assembly lube to the main journals and bearings.

D

6.

Apply Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557) to the top gearcase halve.

NOTE: Do not apply sealant to cam relief hole (E).

Lifters

9.

Lubricate lifters with engine oil and install in the original order as removed in disassembly. Apply Lubricant or Moly

Lube to the ends of the lifters.

NOTE: Always replace the camshaft and lifters as a set.

E

3.48

10. Lubricate connecting rods with 0W-40 engine oil.

ENGINE

13. Install piston assemblies into cylinder aligning the piston pin holes, to ensure proper alignment of the pistons to the connecting rods upon assembly. Partially install the piston pins into the pistons.

11. Install new cylinder gasket on crankcase. Align gasket on the dowel pins for proper gasket alignment.

NOTE: To help align the pistons, slide a rod that is close to the same diameter as the wrist pin holes to properly align them in the cylinder.

14. Position cylinder and piston assemblies onto the connecting rods and push the piston pins through the piston and connecting rods.

3

12. Orientate the piston rings on the piston before installation into the cylinders. Set the gaps of the rings every 120°

(See Illustration Below).

1

Piston Ring

Orientation

2

3

Push in Piston Pins

15. Install the piston pin circlips. The circlip ends should be installed at the 12 O'clock position.

1. Top Ring 2. Second Ring

3. Oil Ring

Piston Pin Cirlcip in

12 O’clock position

3.49

ENGINE

NOTE: While installing in piston circlips, cover all engine passages. The clip could fall into the engine during installation.

17. Assemble rotors as marked when disassembled. Use a cleaner to remove the marks previously made on the rotors.

Line Up Marks

16. Install camshaft thrust plate (G) with new bolts. Torque bolts to specification.

NOTE: New bolts have patch lock on the threads and do not require Loctite™.

18. Apply assembly lube or oil to the rotors on the oil pump shaft.

NOTE: The application of lubrication aids in priming the oil pump during initial engine start up.

Lubricate Rotors

G

= T

Thrust Plate Screw Torque:

115 ± 12 in.lbs. (13 ± 1.35 Nm)

19. Align the bolt holes and install oil pump assembly into crankcase. Rotate the rotors in the housing during installation, as this checks for binding if new rotors are used.

NOTE: For assembly of the gears, the cam gear and the crankshaft gear are stamped with “This Side

Out." This indicates the side of the gear that faces outward or away from the case.

NOTE: Before assembly, clean the bolts and bolt holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing bolts and new Loctite™.

3.50

ENGINE

20. Install oil pump housing bolts (H). The new bolts contain patch lock, so Loctite ™ is not needed on the new bolts.

Torque bolts to specification and follow the torque sequence at beginning of the chapter.

22. Before installing the crankshaft gear (I), heat the crankshaft gear to 250

°

F (121

°

C) on a hot plate (J).

I J

H

3 installing bolts to check for binding of the rotors.

= T

Oil Pump Bolt Torque:

84 ± 8 in.lbs. (9.50 ± 0.90 Nm)

* Torque in Sequence

21. Apply Loctite

™

242 (PN 2871949) to the crankshaft.

CAUTION

The crankshaft gear is extremely hot! Severe burns or injury can occur if the gear is not handled with extreme care and caution. Follow the procedure below to help ensure safety.

23. Use extreme caution when removing the crankshaft gear from the hot plate. Use a pair of pliers and leather gloves when handling the crankshaft gear.

24. Install the crankshaft gear (I) onto the crankshaft.

NOTE: For assembly of the gears, the cam gear and the crankshaft gear are stamped with This Side Out."

This indicates the side of the gear that faces outward or away from the case.

I

3.51

ENGINE

25. Install counter balance shaft gear (J) with new key, aligning timing marks with crankshaft gear (I). Install washer and bolt. Use the Gear Holder (PU-45838).

Torque to specification.

J

I

NOTE: Cam Spanner Wrench (PU-45498) is only needed to rotate the camshaft when the entire valve train is assembled.

PU-45498

PU-45838

= T

Balance Shaft Gear Bolt Torque:

22 ± 2 ft. lbs. (30 ± 3 Nm)

26. Use the Cam Gear Alignment Tool (PU-45497-2) to align the teeth of the cam gear (M). Install the cam gear (M) (with the Cam Gear Alignment Tool still in place) onto the camshaft. The timing marks on the camshaft gear should align with the keyway on the balance shaft gear.

PU-45497-2

27. Reinstall the camshaft gear; so the timing marks are properly aligned. Install the washer and bolt. Torque to specification.

NOTE: Be sure all of the timing marks are properly aligned.

K

Timing Marks

Water Pump Gear

M

M

N

Timing Marks

NOTE: If the timing mark on the camshaft gear does not align properly, remove the camshaft gear and tool. Use the Cam Spanner Wrench (PU-45498) to rotate the cam to the proper position.

= T

Counterbalance Gear and Camshaft

Gear Bolt Torque:

22

±

2 ft. lbs. (30

±

3 Nm)

3.52

ENGINE

28. Before installing the gear / stator housing, replace the seals in the cover. Install a new water pump seal (N) into the gear

/ stator housing. Use the Water Pump Mechanical Seal

Installer (PA-44995) to properly install the seal to the correct depth in the cover.

NOTE: Install the crankshaft seal (P) with the seal lip facing out (towards the crankcase).

P

PA-44995

O

P

A

-4

49

95

N

Seal lip goes towards the crankcase.

IMPORTANT: Due to seal design and construction, seals MUST be installed DRY (no lubricant) during assembly. Use of lubricants (oil, soapy water, etc.) will not allow the seal to wear-in and seal properly. Do not touch seal surface or allow seal surface to come in contact with contaminates during installation.

Thoroughly clean parts, tools and hands before installation.

NOTE: To remove the water pump seal, the gear/ stator housing must be removed. The water pump seal cannot be removed or installed with the gear/ stator housing attached to the engine. Shaft damage will occur.

NOTE: Install the water pump seal (N) with the seal lip facing out (towards the crankcase). Use of a hydraulic press is recommended for this procedure.

29. Install a new crankshaft seal (P) into the gear/stator housing cover. Use the Universal Driver Handle (PU-45543) and the Main Seal Installer (PA-45483) to seat the crankshaft seal into place.

PU-45543

30. Once the crankshaft seal is installed into the gear / stator housing cover, set the direction of the paper lip by sliding the Main Crankshaft Seal Saver (PA-45658) into the crankshaft seal from the rubber lipped side to the paper lip side (Back to Front). Remove the tool.

Important: Set the direction of the paper lip seal

PU-45658

31. Carefully install the tapered end of the Crankshaft Seal

Protection Tool (PA-45658) through the paper side of the crankshaft seal (Back to Front). Leave the seal protector installed in the crankshaft seal. Check the crankshaft seal lips to verify they have not been rolled or damaged.

PU-45658

P

3

PA-45483

3.53

ENGINE

32. Before installing the gear/stator housing cover, install the

Water Pump Seal Saver (PA-45401) onto the water pump shaft.

PA-45401

33. Install a NEW gasket to the gear/stator housing cover and crankcase. With the tools installed, carefully place the gear/stator housing cover over the protection tools.

35. Install the gear/stator housing gasket onto he crankcase.

Gear / Stator

Housing Gasket

34. Apply Crankcase Sealant (PN 2871557) to the outside edges of the crankcase halves (see arrows), where the crankcases mate (see the following photos). This helps to prevent coolant leakage.

36. Secure the gear / stator housing cover to the crankcase with the cover bolts. Torque bolts in proper sequence to specification. Remove seal protectors from the shaft ends once the cover is secure.

PA-45401

PA-45658

= T

Gear/Stator Housing Bolt Torque:

96

±

3 in. lbs. (10.85

±

0.35 Nm)

*Torque in proper sequence

3.54

ENGINE


37. Install shaft seal with ceramic surface facing inward.

39. Install water pump cover (R) with new O-ring seal. Torque bolts to specification in proper sequence (see Page 3.4).

Install the O-ring dry, no lubricants

R

3

96 ± 3 in. lbs.

(10.85 ± 1.35 Nm)

38. Install water pump impeller (P). Secure the impeller with the washer and a new nylok nut (Q) . Torque the nut to specification.

P

= T

Water Pump Housing Bolt Torque:

96 ± 3 in. lbs. (10.85 ± 0.35 Nm)

*Torque in proper sequence

40. Sparingly apply Starter Drive Grease (PN 2871423) to the starter drive. Install the starter bendix.

NOTE: There are thrust washers on both sides of starter drive.

Q

= T

Water Pump Impeller Nut Torque:

108

±

6 in. lbs. (6.8

±

0.68 Nm)

3.55

ENGINE

Flywheel / Stator Installation


1.

Install stator assembly (S) and bolts. Torque bolts to specification.

2.

Install the wire hold down bracket (T). Install two new wire hold down bolts. New bolts contain patch-lock. Torque bolts to specification, following the proper bolt torque sequence. Coat the stator wire grommet (U) with Nyogel

™

Grease (PN 2871329) .

NOTE: Verify stator wires are routed properly under the wire hold down bracket.

Replace 2 bolts with new bolts

= T

Flywheel Nut Torque

65 ± 7 ft.lbs. (88 ± 9.50 Nm)

4.

Install stator housing with new o-rings. Torque the bolts to specification and follow proper bolt torque sequence at the beginning of this chapter.

96 ± 3 in.lbs.

(10.85 ± 0.35 Nm)

T

S

= T

Stator Housing Bolt Torque:

96

±

3 in. lbs. (10.85

±

0.35 Nm)

U

= T

Stator Assembly Bolt Torque:

96 ± 3 in.lbs. (10.85 ± 0.35 Nm)

3.

Install the flywheel, washer, nut, and key. Torque flywheel nut to specification.

Cylinder Head Reassembly

NOTE: Before reassembly, clean the bolts and bolt holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing bolts.

1.

Install the head gasket (A) on the cylinder (B).

65 ± 7 ft. lbs.

(88 ± 9.50 Nm)

A

B

2.

Install cylinder head on cylinder.

3.56

3.

Lubricate threads and top of washers underside of bolt head with engine oil. Install head bolts (C) and torque to specification.

5.

Lubricate rockers (E) with engine oil.

E

C

ENGINE

= T

Cylinder Head Bolt Torque:

Initial setting: 35 ± 4 ft. lbs. (47.5 ± 5.5 Nm)

Allow to set for 1 minute, then turn additional 90 ° (1/4 turn)

*Torque Bolts In Sequence

4.

Lubricate push rods (D) and install into lifters.

D

6.

Verify pushrods are engaged in lifters.

7.

Install rockers. Be sure that tab of fulcrum (F) is seated in head stand-off. Torque bolts to specification.

F

= T

Rocker Arm Bolt Torque

22 + 2 ft. lbs. (30 ± 3 Nm)

3

3.57

ENGINE

8.

Install breather reed (G) into rocker cover (H). Lightly apply black RTV sealant to the outer edges of the breather reed. The reed has a tab and will assemble one-way only.

Torque the breather bolts to specification.

20 ± 5 in.lbs.

(2.5 ± .55 Nm)

H

11. Install thermostat (J), new O-ring, and thermostat housing.

Torque to specification .

K

17 ± 2 ft. lbs.

(23 ± 3 Nm)

J

G

I

84 ± 8 in. lbs.

(9.5 ± 0.9 Nm)

= T

Breather Bolt Toque:

20 ± 5 in. lbs. (2.5

± 0.55 Nm)

NOTE: When applying RTV, do not get any RTV inside the reed assembly.

9.

Place a new seal (I) into the bottom of the cover. Be sure the seal is seated into the cover properly.

IMPORTANT: Before assembly, clean the bolts and bolt holes with Primer N (PN 2870585) to remove any debris. This will ensure proper sealing when installing bolts.

10. Install rocker cover. Torque bolts in sequence to specification.

= T

Thermostat Housing Bolt Torque:

84 ± 8 in. lbs. (9.5

± 0.9 Nm)

12. Install temperature sender (K) and torque to specification.

= T

K

Temperature Sender Torque:

17 ± 2 ft.lbs. (23 ± 3 Nm)

Oil Pump Priming

CAUTION

After any reassembly or rebuild, the engine must be primed using the Oil Priming Adapter

(PU-45778) and a 3/4-full oil filter before initial start-up. Follow the steps in this section to properly prime the engine and aid proper engine break in. Failure to perform this procedure may cause internal engine damage on initial start-up.

= T

Rocker Cover Bolt Torque:

84

±

8 in.lbs. (9.5

±

0.9 Nm)

3.58

1.

After the engine is completely assembled and ready for installation, the engine must be properly primed with

Polaris 0W-40 Synthetic Oil (PN 2871281) . Fill the oil filter three-quarters full with Polaris 0W-40 Synthetic Oil

(PN 2871281) . Let the oil soak into the filter for 8-10 minutes. Install the filter onto the engine.

Fill 3/4 full with 0W-40

ENGINE

ENGINE INSTALLATION

Engine Assembly and Installation

Use the following procedure to reinstall the engine assembly.

Assemble the engine to the transmission on a work bench prior to installation.

1.

Support the transmission / rear gearcase assembly while setting the engine in place.

3 manufactured with shims placed between the rear transmission casting ear and the engine crankcase.

Be sure to use the same amount of shims upon reassembly.

If shims were present upon disassembly but have since been misplaced, look near the rear transmission casting ear for the shim thickness specification that is scribed into the casting.

2.

Remove primer plug from the engine. Install Oil System

Priming Adapter (PU-45778) into the oil plug hole. Push

3-5 oz. (approx.) of Polaris 0W-40 into the adapter or until resistance is felt. Remove the adapter. Apply sealant to the plug threads. Install the plug and torque to specification.

PU-45778

Shim Size

Location manufactured with an added support bracket mounted between the engine and transmission.

Refer to the following image for torque specifications. Snug the rear gearcase fasteners first, followed by the engine fasteners.

Mount Bracket

28 ft. lbs.

(38 Nm)

= T

Primer Plug Torque

18 ± 2 ft.lbs. (24.4 ± 2.71 Nm)

23-27 ft. lbs.

(31-37 Nm)

3.59

ENGINE

2.

Lightly tighten all fasteners evenly to eliminate any gaps that may be present in the mounting areas.

3.

Torque fasteners to specification using a 2 part sequence.

• Torque fasteners to half of the specified torque value

• Then torque fasteners to the full specified torque value

• Install engine / transmission / rear gearcase mounting hardware and torque to specification.

30 ft. lbs.

(41 Nm)

40 ft. lbs.

(54 Nm)

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

28 ft. lbs.

(38 Nm)

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

= T

Engine / Transmission Mounting Fasteners

(2) Lower 3/8” Nuts: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

(4) Outer M8 Bolts: 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm)

Install drive clutch, driven clutch, and belt. Torque to specification (see Chapter 6).

• Clean clutch sheaves thoroughly and inspect inlet and outlet ducts for proper routing and sealing.

To install engine assembly, reverse the “Engine Removal” procedure detailed earlier in this Chapter.

• Properly route all electrical harnesses for engine assembly installation. Check for any possible rubbing points of electrical wires.

• Carefully set the engine assembly into the vehicle while installing the propshaft.

NOTE: If isolator mounts were removed or replaced, use the following illustration to ensure proper orientation during installation.

Mount Protrusion

Front Isolator Mounts

The protrusion of the mount must face inward towards the engine.

Rear Isolator Mounts

The protrusion of the mount must face the RH side of the vehicle.

• Replace exhaust gaskets. Seal connections with high temp silicone sealant. Check to be sure all exhaust springs are in good condition.

• Inspect transmission operation and adjust linkage if necessary (see Chapter 2 “Shift Linkage Adjustment”).

• Checks fluid levels: engine oil, transmission lubricant, and rear gearcase lubricant.

• Bleed cooling system as described in this Chapter under

“Cooling System Bleeding Procedure.”

3.60

Engine Break-In Period

The break-in period for a Polaris 4-Cycle engine is defined as the first ten hours of operation, or the time it takes to use two full tanks of gasoline. No single action on your part is as important as a proper break-in period. Careful treatment of a new engine will result in more efficient performance and longer life for the engine. Perform the following procedures carefully:

CAUTION

Use only Polaris Premium 0-40W All Season synthetic oil or equivalent.

Never substitute or mix oil brands.

Serious engine damage and voiding of warranty can result.

Do not operate at full throttle or high speeds for extended periods during the first three hours of use. Excessive heat can build up and cause damage to close fitted engine parts.

1.

Fill fuel tank with unleaded or leaded fuel which has a minimum pump octane number of 87= (R+ M)/2.

2.

Check oil level indicated on dipstick. Add oil if necessary

(Refer to Chapter 2, “Engine Oil Level” ).

3.

Drive slowly at first to gradually bring engine up to operating temperature.

4.

Vary throttle positions. Do not operate at sustained idle or sustained high speed.

5.

Perform regular checks on fluid levels, controls and all important bolt torques.

6.

Pull only light loads during initial break-in.

7.

Change oil and oil filter after break-in period at 25 hours.

=

Capacity - Approximately 2 U.S. Quarts (1.9 l)

Oil Type - Polaris Premium 0W-40 Synthetic

Filter Wrench - PV-43527 or equivalent

- Oil Pressure Specification -

27-35 psi @ 6000 RPM, Polaris 0W-40

Synthetic, Engine at operating temperature.

ENGINE

3

3.61

ENGINE

TROUBLESHOOTING

Engine

Spark Plug Fouling

• Spark plug cap loose or faulty

• Incorrect spark plug heat range or gap

• PVT system calibrated incorrectly/ components worn or mis-adjusted

• Fuel quality poor (old) or octane too high

• Low compression

• Restricted exhaust

• Weak ignition (loose coil ground, faulty coil, or stator)

• Restricted air filter (main or pre-cleaner) or breather system

• Improperly assembled air intake system

• Restricted engine breather system

• Oil contaminated with fuel

Engine Turns Over But Fails To Start

• No fuel

• Dirt in fuel line or filter

• Fuel will not pass through fuel valve

• Fuel pump inoperative/restricted

• Tank vent plugged or pinched

• Engine flooded

• Low compression (high cylinder leakage)

• No spark (Spark plug fouled) ignition component failure

Engine Does Not Turn Over

• Dead battery

• Starter motor does not turn

• Engine seized, rusted, or mechanical failure

Engine Runs But Will Not Idle

• Restricted fuel supply

• Low compression

• Crankcase breather restricted

Engine Idles But Will Not Accelerate

• Spark plug fouled/weak spark

• Broken throttle cable

• Obstruction in air intake

• Air box removed (reinstall all intake components)

• Incorrect ignition timing

• Restricted exhaust system

• Cam worn excessively

Engine Has Low Power

• Spark plug fouled

• Cylinder, piston, ring, or valve wear or damage (check compression)

• PVT not operating properly

• Restricted exhaust muffler

• Cam worn excessively

Piston Failure - Scoring

• Lack of lubrication

• Dirt entering engine through cracks in air filter or ducts

• Engine oil dirty or contaminated

Excessive Smoke and Carbon Buildup

• Excessive piston-to-cylinder clearance

• Wet sumping

• Worn rings, piston, or cylinder

• Worn valve guides or seals

• Restricted breather

• Air filter dirty or contaminated

Piston Failure - Scoring

• Lack of lubrication

• Dirt entering engine through cracks in air filter or ducts

• Engine oil dirty or contaminated

3.62

Excessive Smoke and Carbon Buildup

• Excessive piston-to-cylinder clearance

• Wet sumping due to over-full crankcase

• Worn rings, piston, or cylinder

• Worn valve guides or seals

• Restricted breather

• Air filter dirty or contaminated

Low Compression

• Cylinder head gasket leak

• No valve clearance ( cam wear )

• Cylinder or piston worn

• Piston rings worn, leaking, broken, or sticking

• Bent valve or stuck valve

• Valve spring broken or weak

• Valve not seating properly (bent or carbon accumulated on sealing surface)

• Rocker arm sticking

Backfiring

• Fouled spark plug or incorrect plug or plug gap

• Exhaust system air leaks

• Exhaust system air leaks

• Valve sticking

• Ignition system faulty:

Spark plug cap cracked / broken

Ignition coil faulty

Ignition or kill switch circuit faulty

Poor connections in ignition system

Ignition timing incorrect

Sheared flywheel key

ENGINE

Cooling System

Overheating

• Low coolant level

• Air in cooling system

• Wrong type/mix of coolant

• Faulty pressure cap or system leaks

• Restricted system (mud or debris in radiator fins causing restriction to air flow, passages blocked in radiator, lines, pump, or water jacket, accident damage)

• Lean mixture (vents, fuel pump or fuel valve)

• Fuel pump output weak

• Electrical malfunction

• Water pump failure/ Loose impeller

• Thermistor failure

• Cooling fan inoperative or turning too slowly (perform current draw test)

• Low oil level

• Spark plug incorrect heat range

• Faulty hot light circuit

• Thermostat stuck closed or not opening completely

Temperature Too Low

• Thermostat stuck open

Leak at Water Pump Weep Hole

• Faulty water pump mechanical seal (coolant leak)

• Faulty pump shaft oil seal (oil leak)

3

3.63

ENGINE

NOTES

3.64

ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION

CHAPTER 4


GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.2

SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.2

SERVICE NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5

EFI SYSTEM EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.6

EFI SYSTEM COMPONENT LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.7

FUEL TANK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.9

EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.9

FUEL LINES - QUICK CONNECT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.10

ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.10

PRINCIPAL COMPONENTS / EFI OPERATION OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.10

INITIAL PRIMING / STARTING PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.11

ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.11

ECU SERVICE / REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.12

TEMPERATURE AND BAROMETRIC AIR PRESSURE SENSOR (T-BAP) . . . . . . . . . 4.12

T-BAP TEST / REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.12

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CPS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.13

CPS TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.13

CPS REPLACEMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.14

FUEL INJECTORS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.18

FUEL INJECTOR SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.18

FUEL INJECTOR TEST / REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.19

FUEL PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.21

FUEL SENDER TEST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.21

FUEL PUMP TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.21

FUEL TANK / FUEL PUMP REPLACEMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.23

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR TEST / REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.25

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.26

TPS TEST PROCEDURE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.26

TPS INITIALIZATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.28

TPS REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.29

ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (ECT) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.30

ECT SENSOR TEST / REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.30

IGNITION COIL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.31

IGNITION COIL TESTS / REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.31

GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.32

DIAGNOSTIC “BLINK CODES” . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.32

EFI TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.33

EFI SYSTEM BREAKOUT DIAGRAMS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.34

DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.34

MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL) CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.34

FUEL INJECTOR (PTO) CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.35

FUEL INJECTOR (MAG) CIRCUIT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.35

ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR (ECT) CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.36

ENGINE OVERHEAT LAMP DRIVER CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.36

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CPS) CIRCUIT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.37

AIR TEMPERATURE / MANIFOLD AIR PRESSURE SENSOR (T-BAP) CIRCUIT. . . . 4.37

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) CIRCUIT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.38

FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.38

4

4.1



WARNING

* Gasoline is extremely flammable and explosive under certain conditions.

* EFI components are under high pressure. Verify system pressure has been relieved before disassembly.

* Never drain the fuel system when the engine is hot.

Severe burns may result .

* Do not overfill the tank. The tank is at full capacity when the fuel reaches the bottom of the filler neck.

Leave room for expansion of fuel.

* Never start the engine or let it run in an enclosed area. Gasoline powered engine exhaust fumes are poisonous and can cause loss of consciousness and death in a short time.

* Do not smoke or allow open flames or sparks in or near the area where refueling is performed or where gasoline is stored.

* If you get gasoline in your eyes or if you should swallow gasoline, seek medical attention immediately.

* If you spill gasoline on your skin or clothing, immediately wash with soap and water and change clothing.

* Always stop the engine and refuel outdoors or in a well ventilated area.

Special Tools

PART

NUMBER

TOOL DESCRIPTION

PU-47082

4010264

Throttle Position Sensor Tester

TPS Tester Regulator

PU-47315

PU-43506-A

PU-47063

PU-47471

Throttle Body Adjustment Screwdriver

(small “D” shape)

Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit

Digital Wrench ™ Diagnostic Software

(Includes most recent version of software and a serial number)

Digital Wrench ™ SmartLink Module Kit

(PU-47470, PU-47469, PU-47468)

PU-47470

Digital Wrench ™

PC Interface Cable

PU-47469

PU-47468

Digital Wrench ™

Vehicle Interface Cable

Digital Wrench ™

SmartLink Module

IMPORTANT: For the most recent information on

Digital Wrench ™ software and fileset downloads please visit the website: www.polaris.diagsys.com

Throttle Position Sensor Tester - PU-47082

This tester allows the use of a digital multi-meter to test TPS function as well perform the TPS Initialization procedure.

NOTE: Voltage Regulator 4010264 is required if using TPS harness PU-47082. If your dealership sells Polaris snowmobiles, you may already have this regulator from TPS tool PN 2201519. If you do not have this regulator, you must order one from

SPX at 1-800-328-6657.

4.2


TPS Tester Regulator - 4010264

This tester regulator regulates the 9 volt battery voltage to a 5 volt input, required when using the TPS harness PU-47082.

Fuel Pressure Gauge Kit - PU-43506-A

IMPORTANT: The EFI fuel system remains under high pressure, even when the engine is not running.

Before attempting to service any part of the fuel system, the pressure must be relieved. The pressure adapter has an integrated relief valve. Connect to the test valve and release the pressure.


PU-43506-A

4

NOTE: If your dealership sells Polaris snowmobiles, you may already have this regulator from TPS tool

PN 2201519. If you do not have this regulator, you must order one from SPX at 1-800-328-6657.

Throttle Body Adjustment Screwdriver - PU-47315

This tool has a special ‘D’ shaped end for adjusting the throttle stop screw during a TPS initialization procedure.

Test Valve

4.3


Digital Wrench ™ Diagnostic Software - PU-47063

This dealer-only software installs on laptop computers equipped with a CD drive and serial port connection, and is designed to replace multiple shop tools often used to test EFI components.

It also includes step-by-step diagnostic procedures to aid technician repair and troubleshooting.

IMPORTANT: If the PC you are using is not equipped with a 9-pin serial port, a USB to serial port adaptor will be necessary. A USB to serial port adaptor can be purchased through DSA at: www.diagsys.com

Digital Wrench ™ - Download Website

Located at: www.polaris.diagsys.com

Digital Wrench™ SmartLink Module Kit - PU-47471

This module kit contains the necessary cables and hardware to communicate between the vehicle ECU and the Digital

Wrench™ diagnostic software. Polaris dealers can also order the following kit components separately: SmartLink Module

PU-47468 , Vehicle Interface Cable PU-47469 and PC

Interface Cable PU-47470 . This module kit is used on all 8 pin connector-based Polaris EFI systems. This kit is available to

Polaris dealers through our tool supplier SPX at (1-800-328-

6657) or http://polaris.spx.com

PU-47469

PU-47468

PU-47470

Digital Wrench ™ - Diagnostic Connector

Located under the dash and accessible from the passenger side.

4.4


Service Notes

• For more convenient and accurate testing of EFI components, it is recommended dealers utilize the

Digital Wrench ™ Diagnostic Software (dealer only), or testing may be done manually using the procedures provided.

•

80% of all EFI problems are caused by wiring harness connections.

• For the purpose of troubleshooting difficult running issues, a known-good ECU from another Polaris

RANGER

RZR EFI of the same model may be used without damaging system or engine components.

• Never attempt to service any fuel system component while engine is running or ignition switch is "on."

• Cleanliness is essential and must be maintained at all times when servicing or working on the EFI system. Dirt, even in small quantities, can cause significant problems.

• Do not use compressed air if the system is open. Cover any parts removed and wrap any open joints with plastic if they will remain open for any length of time. New parts should be removed from their protective packaging just prior to installation.

• Clean any connector before opening to prevent dirt from entering the system.

• Although every precaution has been taken to prevent water intrusion failure, avoid direct water or spray contact with system components.

• Do not disconnect or reconnect the wiring harness connector to the control unit or any individual components with the ignition "on." This can send a damaging voltage spike through the ECU.

• Do not allow the battery cables to touch opposing terminals. When connecting battery cables attach the positive (red) cable to positive (+) battery terminal first, followed by negative (black) cable to negative

(-) battery terminal.

• Never start the engine when the cables are loose or poorly connected to the battery terminals.

• Never disconnect battery while engine is running.

• Never use a battery boost-pack to start the engine.

• Do not charge battery with key switch "on."

• Always disconnect negative (-) battery cable lead before charging battery.

• Always unplug ECU from the wire harness before performing any welding on the unit.

4

4.5


EFI System Exploded View

1. Electronic Control Unit (ECU)

2. Intake Air Temperature / Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (T-BAP)

3. Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS)

4. Fuel Injectors

5. Fuel Filter

6. Fuel Pump / Regulator / Gauge Sender Asm. (Located in tank as an assembly)

7. Fuel Rail

8. Engine Coolant Sensor (ECT)

9. Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

10. Throttle Body

11. Ignition Coil

12. Spark Plugs

1

11

6

8

7

4

10

12

9

2

3

4.6

5


EFI System Component Locations

1.

Electronic Control Unit (ECU)

- Located behind the driver’s seat next to the seat belt assembly and just above the voltage regulator.

ECU

4.

Fuel Injectors / Fuel Rail

- Attached to the fuel rail located in the intake track of the cylinder head.

Fuel Injectors

Fuel Rail

2.

Temperature and Barometric Air Pressure Sensor

(T-BAP)

- Located in the rubber intake boot between the air box and throttle body.

5.

Fuel Pump / Regulator / Fuel Gauge Sender Assembly

- Located under the passenger seat and in the fuel tank as a complete assembly.

Fuel Pump Assembly

4

T-BAP

3.

Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS)

- Located in the magneto cover between the engine and transmission.

CPS

Located in Fuel Tank

Vent Line

Connection

Fuel Line

Connection

Pump / Sending Unit

Connection

Regulator

Fine Filter

Fuel Pump

Preliminary Filter

4.7


6.

Throttle Body

- Located between the rubber air box boot and the rubber cylinder head adaptor.

9.

Ignition Coil

- Located behind the driver’s seat and rear service panel just above the PVT cover.

Ignition Coil

Throttle Body

7.

Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

- Located on the right-hand side of the throttle body.

TPS

8.

Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)

- Located in the cylinder head next to the thermostat housing. The sensor can be accessed with the driver and passenger seats and rear service panel removed.

ECT

4.8


FUEL TANK

Exploded View

Rear

Tank Bracket

Screw Screw

Front

Tank Bracket

Quick Connect

Fuel Line

Pad

Hi-Temp

Flex Conduit

Fuel Pump Asm

Pad

4

Cap

Gasket

Fuel Tank

Fuel Flow

Fuel Tank

Fuel Rail

Fuel Filters

Pressure Regulator

Fuel Pump Assembly Quick Connect Fuel Line

Fuel Injectors

4.9


Fuel Lines - Quick Connect

RANGER EFI models use quick connect fuel lines. Refer to the steps below for fuel line removal.

1.

Place a shop towel around the fuel line to catch any dripping fuel. Squeeze the connector tabs together and push the locking slide back.

Squeeze Connector Tabs

2.

Pull on the fuel line for removal.

3.

To install the line, verify the connector and fuel tank nipple are clean and free of debris.

4.

Snap the fuel line back over the nipple and slide the locking mechanism back into place. Verify the connector tabs snap back into place.


Principal Components

The Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) system is a complete engine fuel and ignition management design. This system includes the following principal components:

• Fuel Pump

• Fuel Rai l

• Fuel Line

• Fuel Filter(s)

• Fuel Injectors

• Pressure Regulator

• Throttle Body / lntake Manifold

• Engine Control Unit (ECU)

• Ignition Coils

• Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT)

• Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)

• Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS)

• Intake Air Temperature and Barometric Air

Pressure Sensor (T-BAP)

• Wire Harness Assembly

• Check Engine Light

EFI Operation Overview

The EFI system is designed to provide peak engine performance with optimum fuel efficiency and lowest possible emissions.

The ignition and injection functions are electronically controlled, monitored and continually corrected during operation to maintain peak performance.

The central component of the system is the Bosch Engine

Control Unit (ECU) which manages system operation, determining the best combination of fuel mixture and ignition timing for the current operating conditions.

An in-tank electric fuel pump is used to move fuel from the tank through the fuel line and in-line fuel filter. The in-tank fuel pressure regulator maintains a system operating pressure of 39 psi and returns any excess fuel to the tank. At the engine, fuel is fed through the fuel rail and into the injectors, which inject into the intake ports. The ECU controls the amount of fuel by varying the length of time that the injectors are "on." This can range from

1.5-8.0 milliseconds depending on fuel requirements. The controlled injection of the fuel occurs each crankshaft revolution, or twice for each 4-stroke cycle. One-half the total amount of fuel needed for one firing of a cylinder is injected during each injection. When the intake valve opens, the fuel/air mixture is drawn into the combustion chamber, ignited and burned.

4.10


The ECU controls the amount of fuel being injected and the ignition timing by monitoring the primary sensor signals for air temperature, barometric air pressure, engine temperature, speed

(RPM), and throttle position (load). These primary signals are compared to the programming in the ECU computer chip, and the ECU adjusts the fuel delivery and ignition timing to match the values.

During operation the ECU has the ability to re-adjust temporarily, providing compensation for changes in overall engine condition and operating environment, so it will be able to maintain the ideal air/fuel ratio.

During certain operating periods such as cold starts, warm up, acceleration, etc., a richer air / fuel ratio is automatically calculated by the ECU.

Initial Priming / Starting Procedure

NOTE: The injection system must be purged of all air prior to the initial start up, and / or any time the system has been disassembled.

If the EFI system is completely empty of fuel or has been disassembled and repaired:

1.

Cycle the key switch from “OFF” to “ON” 6 times, waiting for approximately 3 seconds at each “ON” cycle to allow the fuel pump to cycle and shut down.

2.

Once step 1 is completed, turn the key switch to “START” until the engine starts or 5 seconds has passed.

3.

If the engine failed to start, repeat step 1 for 2 more cycles and attempt to start the engine.

If the engine fails to start, a problem may still exist, and should be diagnosed.

NOTE: Accurate testing of EFI components is recommended utilizing the Digital Wrench™

Diagnostic Software (dealer only).

ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNIT (ECU)

Operation Overview

The ECU is the brain or central processing computer of the entire EFI fuel/ignition management system. During operation, sensors continuously gather data which is relayed through the wiring harness to input circuits within the ECU. Signals to the

ECU include: ignition (on/off), crankshaft position and speed

(RPM), throttle position, engine coolant temperature, air temperature, intake manifold air pressure and battery voltage.

The ECU compares the input signals to the programmed maps in its memory and determines the appropriate fuel and spark requirements for the immediate operating conditions. The ECU then sends output signals to set the injector duration and ignition timing.

ECU

During operation, the ECU continually performs a diagnostic check of itself, each of the sensors, and system performance. If a fault is detected, the ECU turns on the “Check Engine” light in the speedometer and stores the fault code in its fault memory.

Depending on the significance or severity of the fault, normal operation may continue, or "Fail-Safe" operation (slowed speed, richer running) may be initiated. A technician can determine the cause of the “Check Engine” light by initiating the “Blink Code” sequence or by using Digital Wrench™. The ECU requires a minimum of 7.0 volts to operate. The memory in the ECU is operational the moment the battery cables are connected.

To prevent engine over-speed and possible failure, a revlimiting feature is programmed into the ECU. If the maximum

RPM limit (6500) is exceeded, the ECU suppresses the injection signals, cutting off the fuel flow. This process repeats it self in rapid succession, limiting operation to the preset maximum.

4

4.11


RANGER RZR 800 EFI RPM Limit:

Hard Limit - Injector suppression occurs

• High: 6500

• Low: 6500

• Neutral: 6500

• Reverse: 6500

• Park: 6500

Soft Limit - Timing suppression occurs

• High: 6375

• Low: 6375

• Neutral: 6375

• Reverse: 6375

• Park: 6375

ECU Service

Never attempt to disassemble the ECU. It is sealed to prevent damage to internal components. Warranty is void if the case is opened or tampered with in any way.

All operating and control functions within the ECU are pre-set.

No internal servicing or readjustment may be performed. If a problem is encountered, and you determine the ECU to be faulty, contact the Polaris Service Department for specific handling instructions. Do not replace the ECU without factory authorization.

The relationship between the ECU and the throttle position sensor (TPS) is very critical to proper system operation. If the

TPS is faulty, or the mounting position of the TPS to the throttle body is altered, the TPS must be re-initialized (see TPS

Initialization for procedure if required).

For the purpose of troubleshooting, a known-good ECU from another Polaris RANGER RZR EFI of the same model may be used without system or engine component damage.

ECU Replacement

1.

Remove the (2) retaining screws holding the ECU.

2.

With the Ignition turned off, disconnect the wire harness from the ECU.

3.

To install, reverse the procedures and tighten screws to specification.

TEMPERATURE AND BAROMETRIC

AIR PRESSURE SENSOR (T-BAP)


Mounted in the throttle body intake boot, the T-BAP sensor performs two functions in one unit.

T-BAP

Air passing through the intake is measured by the T-BAP and relayed to the ECU. These signals, comprised of separate air temperature and manifold air pressure readings, are processed by the ECU and compared to its programming for determining the fuel and ignition requirements during operation.

T-BAP Test

The T-BAP sensor is a non-serviceable item. If it is faulty, it must be replaced.

IMPORTANT: The T-BAP sensor requires a 5 VDC input to operate, therefore the T-BAP sensor should only be tested using the Digital Wrench™ Diagnostic

Software (dealer only). Refer to the EFI Diagnostic

Software Manual for more information.

T-BAP Replacement

1.

Disconnect sensor from engine harness.

2.

Using a 3/8” wrench, remove the retaining bolt and remove the sensor from the intake boot.

= T

ECU Retaining Screws

10 in. lbs. (1.1 Nm)

4.12

3.

Install new sensor using a light coating of oil on the o-ring to aid installation.

Bolt

T-BAP

Intake Boot

4.

Torque the T-BAP retaining bolt to specification.


The two-tooth gap creates an “interrupt” input signal, corresponding to specific crankshaft position for PTO cylinder.

This signal serves as a reference for the control of ignition timing by the ECU. Synchronization of the CPS and crankshaft position takes place during the first two revolutions each time the engine is started. This sensor must be properly connected at all times. If the sensor fails or becomes disconnected for any reason, the engine will quit running.

CPS Test

The CPS is a sealed, non-serviceable assembly. If fault code diagnosis indicates a problem within this sensor, test as follows:

1.

Disconnect CPS (3-wire) harness connector on the lefthand side of the vehicle located below the transmission.

4

CPS

Connector

= T

T-BAP Retaining Bolt Torque:

29 in. lbs. (3.3 Nm)

CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

(CPS)


The crankshaft position sensor is essential to engine operation, constantly monitoring the rotational speed (RPM) and position of the crankshaft.

2.

Connect an ohmmeter between the pin terminals leading from the Yellow and White wires. A resistance value of

560

Ω ±

10% at room temperature (20

°

C / 68

°

F) should be obtained.

CPS Harness

CPS

A ferromagnetic 60-tooth ring gear with two consecutive teeth missing is mounted on the flywheel. The inductive speed sensor is mounted 1.0

±

0.26 mm (0.059

±

0.010 in.) away from the ring gear. During rotation, an AC pulse is created within the sensor for each passing tooth. The ECU calculates engine speed from the time interval between the consecutive pulses.

Yellow White

Black

CPS Resistance Specification:

560

Ω ±

10% (20

°

C, 68

°

F)

4.13


3.

If the resistance is correct.

- Test the main harness circuit between the sensor connector terminals and the corresponding pin terminals at the ECU (see wiring diagram).

- Check the sensor mounting, air gap, flywheel ring gear for damage or runout, and flywheel key. Follow the “CPS

Replacement” procedure to inspect CPS and flywheel ring gear for damage.

4.

If the resistance is incorrect, follow the “CPS Replacement” procedure.

CPS Replacement

Removal

1.

Safely support the rear of the vehicle off the ground and remove the left-hand rear tire.

WARNING

Serious injury may result if machine tips or falls.

Be sure the vehicle is secure before beginning this service procedure.

2.

If not done already; disconnect the CPS harness connector

(see illustration under “CPS Test”).

IMPORTANT: In order to remove the CPS, the rear portion of the exhaust system and the mounting bracket between the transmission and rear gearcase will need to be removed.

3.

Remove the exhaust pipe between the elbow pipe and the exhaust silencer. Remove the exhaust silencer.

Silencer

4.

Remove the (3) bolts retaining the front portion of the mounting bracket to the transmission. Retain the bolts, washers, and spacers for installation.

5.

Remove the bottom bolt that attaches the bracket to the rear gearcase through the hole in the frame support as shown.

Transmission

Mounting Bolts

Rear Gearcase

Mounting Bolt

6.

Remove the (2) remaining fasteners that attach the bracket to the side of the rear gearcase.

7.

Remove the bolt from the bracket at the front of the rear gearcase.

Remove

Remove

Elbow

Pipe

Header

Pipe

4.14


8.

Lift the mounting bracket straight up and out from the vehicle.

Remove

Bracket

Installation

IMPORTANT: When reinstalling the transmission to rear gearcase mount bracket, it is extremely important to torque all (7) fasteners to specification. Refer to the following procedure.

NOTE: Special tool (PA-48873) will be required to torque the mounting bracket fasteners when the transmission and rear gearcase are installed in the vehicle.

Special Tool

PA-48873

4

9.

Using a 5 mm hex wrench, remove the CPS retaining bolt and remove the sensor from the magneto housing.

10. Install new sensor using a light coating of oil on the o-ring to aid installation.

11. Torque the CPS retaining bolt to specification.

= T

CPS Retaining Bolt Torque:

25 in. lbs. (2.8 Nm)

This tool is specifically designed to access the critical transmission to rear gearcase mounting bracket bolts on the Ranger RZR when the transmission and rear gearcase are installed in the vehicle. This tool allows for proper torque to be applied to ½” SAE hex head cap screws with limited wrench access. When used at a 90° angle with a torque wrench, no torque multiplier is necessary.

1.

Clean bolt threads with solvent and allow them to dry.

Coat the cicumference of the first 4 threads of the bolts with Loctite before installing the bolts.

2.

Reinstall mounting bracket and hand tighten the (7) bolts.

3.

Torque ALL mounting bracket bolts to specification.

= T

Mount Bracket Bolt Torque:

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-37 Nm)

4.15


4.

Using special tool (PA-48873), torque the (3) bolts that retain the front portion of the mounting bracket to the transmission.

Upper Transmission Bolt

5.

Remove the special tool and attach an extension to the torque wrench. Torque the bottom bolt that attaches the bracket to the rear gearcase through the hole in the frame support.

Bottom Rear Gearcase Bolt

NOTE: Special Tool is not required for this torque.

Middle Transmission Bolt

Torque with an extension

6.

Using special tool (PA-48873), torque the upper (2) bolts retaining the mounting bracket to the rear gearcase. Place the torque wrench through the rear exhaust silencer opening to gain access to the bolts.

Middle Rear Gearcase Bolt

Bottom Transmission Bolt

4.16

Upper Rear Gearcase Bolt


7.

Torque the remaining bolt that attaches the bracket to the front side of the rear gearcase.

Front Rear Gearcase Bolt

NOTE: A multi-directional torque wrench is required in this application because of the limited access to this bolt. Check with the manufacturer of your torque wrench to see if it can be used to tighten lefthand threaded bolts.

4

4.17


FUEL INJECTORS


NOTE: All EFI units utilize quick connect fuel lines.

The fuel injectors mount into the cylinder head, and the fuel rail attaches to them at the top end. Replaceable O-rings on both ends of the injector prevent external fuel leaks and also insulate it from heat and vibration.

Fuel Rail

Fuel Injectors

When the key switch is on, the fuel rail is pressurized, and voltage is present at the injector. At the proper instant, the ECU completes the ground circuit, energizing the injector. The valve needle in the injector is opened electromagnetically, and the pressure in the fuel rail forces fuel down through the inside. The

“director plate” at the tip of the injector (see inset) contains a series of calibrated openings which directs the fuel into the intake port in a cone-shaped spray pattern.

The injector is opened and closed once for each crankshaft revolution, however only one-half the total amount of fuel needed for one firing is injected during each opening. The amount of fuel injected is controlled by the ECU and determined by the length of time the valve needle is held open, also referred to as the “injection duration” or “pulse width”. It may vary in length from 1.5-8 milliseconds depending on the speed and load requirements of the engine.

Fuel Injector Service

Injector problems typically fall into three general categorieselectrical, dirty / clogged, or leakage. An electrical problem usually causes one or both of the injectors to stop functioning.

Several methods may be used to check if the injectors are operating.

• With the engine running at idle, feel for operational vibration, indicating that they are opening and closing.

• When temperatures prohibit touching, listen for a buzzing or clicking sound with a screwdriver or mechanic's stethoscope.

• Disconnect the electrical connector from an injector and listen for a change in idle performance (only running on one cylinder) or a change in injector noise or vibration.

NOTE: Do not apply voltage directly to the fuel injector(s). Excessive voltage will burn out the injector(s). Do not ground the injector(s) with the ignition on. lnjector(s) will open/turn on if relay is energized.

If an injector is not operating, it can indicate either a bad injector, or a wiring/electrical connection problem. Check as follows:

Injector leakage is very unlikely, but in rare instances it can be internal (past the tip of the valve needle), or external (weeping around the injector body). The loss of system pressure from the leakage can cause hot restart problems and longer cranking times.

Injector problems due to dirt or clogging are unlikely due to the design of the injectors, the high fuel pressure, the use of filters and the detergent additives in the gasoline. Symptoms that could be caused by dirty/clogged injectors include rough idle, hesitation/stumble during acceleration, or triggering of fault codes related to fuel delivery. Injector clogging is usually caused by a buildup of deposits on the director plate, restricting the flow of fuel, resulting in a poor spray pattern. Some contributing factors to injector clogging include; dirty air filters, higher than normal operating temperatures, short operating intervals and dirty, incorrect, or poor quality fuel. Cleaning of clogged injectors is not recommended; they should be replaced.

Additives and higher grades of fuel can be used as a preventative measure if clogging has been a problem.

4.18


Fuel Injector Test

NOTE: The Bosch harness connector and locking spring is bonded to the fuel injectors with an epoxy mix. DO NOT attempt to disconnect the Bosch connector from the fuel injectors. Damage will occur to the injector and/or harness if attempting to separate at that location. Separate the fuel injector from the vehicle by disconnecting at the end of the harness as shown in this procedure.

Fuel

Injector

Disconnect Here

Harness

Fuel Injector Replacement

1.

Be sure the engine has cooled enough to work on.

2.

Depressurize the fuel system by connecting the Fuel

Pressure Gauge Kit PU-43506-A to the test valve at the end of the fuel rail and properly drain the fuel into a suitable container.

4

Test Valve

DO NOT

Disconnect Here

The fuel injectors are non-serviceable. If fault code diagnosis indicates a problem with either injector, test the resistance of the fuel injector(s) by measuring between the two harness pin terminals:

Disconnect and test here

3.

Remove the exhaust pipe between the exhaust silencer and the elbow pipe to allow better access to the fuel injector rail.

Silencer

Elbow

Pipe

Remove

Header

Pipe

Fuel Injector Resistance Specification:

13.8

Ω

- 15.2

Ω

4.

Remove the engine breather hose from the valve cover.

5.

Remove both driver and passenger seats and remove the rear service panel.

4.19


6.

Disconnect the harness for the fuel injector(s) located next to the ignition coil. Cut the plastic tie strap and push the harness for the fuel injector(s) up over the air box to allow fuel injector removal.

Fuel Injector

Harnesses

8.

Using a 6mm hex wrench, loosen the fuel rail mounting screw from the cylinder head. Carefully pull the rail away from the injectors and remove the injector(s) from the cylinder head along with the harness.

Fuel Rail

Fuel Injectors

Mounting

Screw

NOTE: The Bosch harness connector and locking spring is bonded to the fuel injectors with an epoxy mix. DO NOT attempt to disconnect the Bosch connector from the fuel injectors. Damage will occur to the injector and/or harness if attempting to separate at that location. Separate the fuel injector from the vehicle by disconnecting at the end of the harness as shown previous in this procedure.

Fuel

Injector

Disconnect Here

Harness

9.

Reverse the previous procedures to install the new injector(s) and reassemble.

IMPORTANT: The PTO Fuel Injector Harness wires are Red/Black and White. The MAG Fuel Injector

Harness wires are Red/Black and White/Black.

10. Lubricate O-rings lightly with oil to aid installation. Torque the fuel rail mounting screw to specification.

= T

Fuel Rail Mounting Screw

16-20 ft. lbs. (22.6-27 Nm)

DO NOT

Disconnect Here

7.

Thoroughly clean the area around the fuel injectors including the throttle body manifold.

4.20

FUEL PUMP


NOTE: All EFI units utilize quick connect lines.

An electric fuel pump assembly is used to transfer fuel to the EFI system from inside the fuel tank. This assembly includes the fuel pump, fuel filters, regulator and fuel gauge sender. The pump is rated for a minimum output of 25 liters per hour at 39 psi and has two non-serviceable fuel filters.

Fuel Pump Assembly


• If the engine is stopped with the key switch "on" (as in the case of an accident).

In these situations, the “check engine” light will go on, but will turn off after 4 cranking revolutions if system function is OK.

Once the engine is running, the fuel pump remains on.

Fuel Sender Test

If the fuel gauge reading on the instrument cluster is not working, or if the display reading differs in large comparison to the fuel in the tank, perform a resistance test on the fuel sender.

Disconnect the fuel pump / sending unit connection and measure the resistance between the Purple and Brown wires (see chapter

10 for further details). If out of specification, replace the fuel pump assembly.

NOTE: See the “Electronic Parts Catalog” for fuel pump availability. It may be possible that the fuel tank assembly must be replaced.

4

Fuel Sender Resistance Specifications:

Full: 90

Ω

Empty: 5

Ω

Located in Fuel Tank

Vent Line

Connection

Fuel Line

Connection

Pump / Sending Unit

Connection

Regulator

Fine Filter

Fuel Pump

Preliminary Filter

When the key switch is turned to "ON", the ECU activates the fuel pump, which pressurizes the system for start-up.

The ECU switches off the pump preventing the continued delivery of fuel in these instances:

• If the key switch is not promptly turned to the "start" position.

• If the engine fails to start

Fuel Pump Test

The fuel pump assembly may be a serviceable item on some vehicles.


If a fuel delivery problem is suspected, make certain the fuel pump filters are not plugged, that the pump is being activated through the ECU, all electrical connections are properly secured, the fuses are good, and a minimum of 7.0 volts is being supplied. If during starting the battery voltage drops below 7.0

volts, the ECU will fail to operate the system.

WARNING

Check the fuel test valve for any possible fuel seepage after performing any tests or procedures. Fuel is extremely flammable and may cause severe burns, injury, or death.

Do not use any device that produces a flame or electrical devices that may spark around fuel or fuel vapors.

4.21


1.

Remove the cap from the fuel test valve. 4.

If the pump did not activate (Step 3), disconnect the harness connector from the fuel pump. Connect a DC voltmeter across terminals “A” and “C” in the plug on the vehicle harness side. Turn on the key switch and observe voltage to ensure a minimum of 7 volts is present.

Disconnect and Test Here

Test Valve

Pin “C”

Brown

2.

Connect the pressure hose of the Polaris pressure tester

( PU-43506-A ) to the test valve on the fuel rail. Route the clear hose into a portable gasoline container or the equipment fuel tank.

Pin “A”

Red


PU-43506-A

3.

Turn on the key switch to activate the pump and check the system pressure on the gauge. If system pressure of 39 psi

±

3 is observed, the ignition switch, ECU, fuel pump, and pressure regulator are working properly. Turn the key switch off and depress the valve button on the tester to relieve the system pressure.

Normal Fuel Pressure: 39 psi. ± 3

NOTE: If the fuel pressure is out of specification, replace the fuel pump assembly. See the “Electronic

Parts Catalog” for fuel pump availability. It may be possible that the fuel tank assembly must be replaced.

NOTE: If the voltage was below 7 VDC, test the battery, ignition switch, relay(s), wiring harness and

ECU.

5.

If the reading is between 7 and 14 volts, turn key switch off and connect an ohmmeter between the terminals “A” and

“C”' in the plug on the pump harness side to check for continuity within the fuel pump.

NOTE: If there was no continuity between the pump terminals, replace the fuel pump assembly. See the

“Electronic Parts Catalog” for fuel pump availability.

It may be possible that the fuel tank assembly must be replaced.

6.

If voltage at the plug was within the specified range, and there was continuity across the pump terminals, reconnect the plug to the pump, making sure you have clean connections. Turn on the key switch and listen for the pump to activate.

NOTE: If the pump starts, repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 to verify correct pressure.

7.

If the pump still does not operate, check for correct ECU operation by plugging in a known-good ECU of the same model.

NOTE: If the pump still does not operate, replace the fuel pump assembly. See the “Electronic Parts

Catalog” for fuel pump availability. It may be possible that the fuel tank assembly must be replaced.

4.22


Fuel Tank / Fuel Pump Replacement

IMPORTANT: Syphon as much fuel from the tank as possible before attempting to remove it from the vehicle.

5.

Disconnect the fuel pump electrical harness.

Disconnect Here

WARNING

Always wear safety goggles when working with high pressure or flammable fluids. Failure to do so could result in serious injury or complications.

serviceable item on some vehicles. See the

“Electronic Parts Catalog” for fuel pump availability.

It may be possible that the fuel tank assembly must be replaced.

If replacing only the fuel pump assembly, refer to

“Fuel Pump Removal / Installation” within this section. If replacing the fuel tank, follow the procedure below.

1.

Remove the driver and passenger seats along with the rear service panel.

2.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery located under the driver’s seat.

3.

Bleed off fuel pressure at the test valve using the Fuel

Pressure Gauge Kit (PU-43506-A).

4.

While holding a shop towel over the fuel line connector, disconnect the quick connect fuel line from the fuel pump.

6.

Remove the fuel tank vent hose.

7.

Remove the (2) push rivets from the rear of the center console.

4

NOTE: A small amount of fuel may come out of the fuel line or tank. Properly drain fuel into a suitable container.

4.23


8.

Remove the (2) fasteners from the rear seat base and remove the assembly from the vehicle.

11. Remove the (3) Torx fasteners from the rear RH fender well and remove the fender well from the vehicle.

9.

Remove the (11) push rivets and (4) Torx screws retaining the RH rocker panel and remove panel from the vehicle.

Remove

RH Rocker Panel

NOTE: Lift fender well up over the fuel tank filler neck and out from the vehicle.

IMPORTANT: Take care not to place any excessive force on the filler neck

12. Remove the (2) tank bracket fasteners that retain the fuel tank in the chassis.

10. Remove the lower bolt retaining the seat belt mechanism near the rear RH portion of the fuel tank. Once removed, place the mechanism in the rear cargo box to keep it out of the way.

Tank Bracket

Fasteners

13. Lift the rear of the fuel tank up first and carefully pull it out from the vehicle.

4.24

Fuel Pump Removal / Installation

1.

Remove the (6) mounting screws and carefully remove the fuel pump from the tank. Take care not to damage the fuel sender float or fuel pick-up screen.

Remove (6) mounting Screws


Fuel Tank Installation

1.

Carefully reinstall the fuel tank assembly.

2.

Reinstall the (2) tank brackets and fasteners.

3.

Reinstall the rear RH fender well and secure with fasteners.

4.

Reinstall the seat belt mechanism and secure the lower bolt.

5.

Reinstall the RH rocker panel and all (15) fasteners.

6.

Reinstall the rear seat base and secure with the (2) fasteners.

7.

Reinstall the push rivets into the rear of the center console.

8.

Install the fuel line and vent hose and verify they are secure.

9.

Reconnect the fuel pump electrical harness.

10. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Test the fuel pump by turning on the key and listening for the pump to activate.

11. Finally, install the rear service panel along with the driver and passenger seats.

4

2.

Replace O-ring on fuel pump assembly.

WARNING

Never reuse the O-ring

3.

Clean the tank’s mating surface with Isopropyl Alcohol.

4.

Carefully install the fuel pump into the tank. Take care not to damage the fuel sender float or fuel pick-up screen.

5.

Install and hand tighten the mounting screws.

6.

Torque screws to specification following the sequence show in the illustration below.

7.

Apply the final torque using the same sequence.

FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR


The fuel pressure regulator maintains the required operating system pressure of 39 psi + 3psi. A rubber-fiber diaphragm divides the regulator into two separate sections; the fuel chamber and the pressure regulating chamber. The pressure regulating spring presses against the valve holder (part of the diaphragm), pressing the valve against the valve seat. The combination of atmospheric pressure and regulating spring tension equals the desired operating pressure. Any time the fuel pressure against the bottom of the diaphragm exceeds the desired (top) pressure, the valve opens, relieving the excess pressure, returning the excess fuel back to the tank.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Test

Refer to the “Fuel Pump Test” procedure.

See “Fuel Pump Test” on page 4.21.

Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement

The pressure regulator is a sealed, non-serviceable assembly. If it is faulty, the fuel pump assembly must be replaced. Refer to the “Fuel Pump Removal / Installation” procedure.


= T

Fuel Pump Mounting Screw Torque:

1st Sequence: 10-14 in. lbs. (1.1-1.6 Nm)

Final Sequence: 25-28 in. lbs. (2.8-3.2 Nm)

4.25


THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS)


The throttle position sensor (TPS) is used to indicate throttle plate angle to the ECU.

Mounted on the throttle body and operated directly off the end of the throttle shaft, the TPS works like a rheostat, varying the voltage signal to the ECU in direct correlation to the angle of the throttle plate. This signal is processed by the ECU and compared to the internal pre-programmed maps to determine the required fuel and ignition settings for the amount of engine load.

Set up the TPS Tester ( PU-47082 ), according to the instructions that accompanied the tester. Make sure that the 9 volt battery is new.

PU-47082 TPS Test

TPS Tester

Use NEW

9V battery

Air Flow Screw

(Factory Set)

Throttle Body

As mentioned in the instructions included with the tester, be sure the TPS tester is set up along with the TPS Tester Regulator

( 4010264 ).

4010264

TPS Tester Regulator

Yellow

(Output)

TPS

TPS Connector

Blue

(Input)

Black

(Ground) established and set at the factory. Do not loosen the

TPS or alter the mounting position. If the TPS is repositioned, replaced or loosened it must be recalibrated by performing “TPS Initialization.”

TPS Test Procedure

The throttle position sensor (TPS) is a non-serviceable item. If it is faulty, it must be replaced. It can be tested using the following method:

NOTE: Before proceeding with any of the following measurements or tests, it’s extremely important to verify the throttle body bore is clean of any carbon build-up. Remove the intake boot and inspect the throttle body bore. If required, remove the throttle body and clean the bore using carburetor cleaner.

NOTE: If your dealership sells Polaris snowmobiles, you may already have this regulator from TPS tool

PN 2201519. If you do not have this regulator, you must order one from SPX at 1-800-328-6657.

Typical Tester

Set-up

9 Volt Battery

Regulator

Cable Ties

Test Ports

Install Regulator

Connections Here

R = RED

P = PINK

Bk = BLACK

Y = YELLOW

4.26


Verify TPS Tester Reference Voltage

A 5 volt reference voltage from the harness is required for the

TPS test to be accurate. Refer to the instructions provided with the TPS Test Adapter Harness ( PU-47082 ) or follow the bullet point steps to check reference voltage.

• Harness Test: Insert black voltmeter probe into the

“Bk” test port.

• Connect the red meter probe into the “R” port and verify the voltage is 4.99-5.01 Vdc. If this reading is low, verify the 9 volt battery is good or try a new 9 volt battery.

4.

Move the throttle open and closed slowly while reading the display. The voltage should increase and decrease smoothly with no “jumps” when the throttle is applied.

PU-47082 Tester

Red

Probe

Red Pink

Black

Black

Probe

No “Jumps” in read out

.70 ~ 3.7

4

5.

If voltage varies with throttle movement, continue on to the next step and measure the idle air flow reading. If the sensor did not function correctly, replace it.

6.

With voltmeter still attached to the TPS Test Adapter

Harness (PU-47082) as shown below, the voltmeter should read .735 ± .01 volts at idle position.

PU-47082 Tester

Red

Probe

Black

Probe

Red Pink

Black

IMPORTANT: Always use a fresh 9 volt battery.

Test Procedure

1.

Disconnect the vehicle harness from the TPS.

NOTE: To allow better access to the TPS harness connection, remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust silencer.

2.

Plug the TPS tester harness in the TPS harness.

3.

Connect the red volt meter test probe in yellow test port and black volt meter test probe in the black test port and set the meter to read VDC.

Should Read

.735 Vdc

.735

7.

If the voltage does not read within the specification,

“ TPS Initialization ” will need to be performed.

4.27


TPS Initialization

NOTE: The correct TPS position is established and set at the factory. Use this procedure only if the TPS was repositioned, replaced or loosened.

STEP 1

Establishing zero offset voltage: This step is crucial as it sets the TPS position using a fixed physical stop. This will insure that the correct offset voltage is reached once the correct throttle body flow is set.

NOTE: Before proceeding, it’s extremely important to verify the throttle body bore is clean of any carbon build-up. Remove the intake boot and inspect the throttle body bore. If required, remove the throttle body and clean the bore.

6.

Back out air flow screw until it no longer is in contact with throttle plate cam. The throttle plate should seal off throttle bore completely.

Back Air Flow Screw Out

Until No Contact is Made

Throttle Plate

Must Be Closed

1.

Stop the engine and leave the ignition key in the off position.

2.

Remove the driver and passenger seats along with the rear service panel.

3.

Remove the outlet duct from the PVT cover to access the throttle body.

4.

Loosen the hose clamps that secure the throttle body in the intake boot and intake adaptor. This will allow you to rotate the throttle body to access the TPS or allow you to remove the throttle body to perform this procedure.

5.

Remove the throttle body side cover and disconnect throttle cable from throttle cam.

7.

Open and close throttle plate a couple of times to ensure full throttle closing. Do not snap closed, as this could cause unnecessary throttle plate to throttle body interference and/ or damage.

8.

Assemble the TPS Tester Harness (PU-47082) according to the instructions. Refer to “TPS Test Procedure” for proper tester set-up. Verify that the 9 volt battery is new.

9.

Disconnect the vehicle harness from the TPS.

10. Plug the TPS tester harness in the TPS harness.

11. Using a voltmeter check the voltage output of the TPS. It should read .528 ± .01 volts.

PU-47082 Tester

Should Read

.528 Vdc

.528

Red

Probe

Red Pink

Black

Black

Probe

4.28


12. If it does not read .528 ± .01 volts, loosen the screw holding the TPS to the throttle body. Rotate TPS until voltmeter reads .528 ± .01 volts.

13. Retighten TPS mounting screw, and verify the voltage did not change. If changed, repeat the previous steps.

STEP 2

Establishing correct flow: Now that the zero offset voltage has been set, you can now set the throttle body to the correct air flow value.

1.

With the voltmeter still attached to the TPS Tester Harness

(PU-47082), turn in the air flow adjustment screw until the voltmeter reads .735 ± .01 volts. The throttle body is now adjusted to the correct flow value.

Turn Air Flow Screw In

TPS Replacement

established and set at the factory. Do not loosen the

TPS or alter the mounting position. If the TPS is repositioned, replaced or loosened it must be recalibrated by performing “TPS Initialization.”

1.

If the vehicle is completely assembled, remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust silencer from the vehicle to gain access to the throttle body and TPS.

2.

Disconnect the TPS harness connection (A).

A TPS

4

B

3.

Remove the retaining screw (B) and replace the sensor.

4.

Refer to “ TPS Initialization ” for setting the TPS voltage.

PU-47082 Tester

Should Read

.735 Vdc

Red

Probe

Black

Probe

Red Pink

Black

.735

2.

Reconnect the TPS harness lead

3.

Reinstall throttle cable on throttle cam and install cover.

Adjust cable freeplay.

4.29


ENGINE COOLANT TEMPERATURE

SENSOR (ECT)


Mounted on the cylinder head, the engine temperature sensor measures coolant temperature. The engine temperature sensor is a Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) type sensor, as the temperature increases the resistance decreases.

ECT Sensor Test

Engine Temperature Sensor

ECT

Coolant passes through the cylinder and by the sensor probe, varying a resistance reading which is relayed to the ECU. This signal is processed by the ECU and compared to its programming for determining the fuel and ignition requirements during operation. The ECU also uses this signal to determine when to activate the fan during operation. If for any reason the engine temperature sensor circuit is interrupted, the fan will default to “ON”.

To quickly rule out other components and wiring related to the

ETS, disconnect the harness from the ETS. The fan should turn on and ‘HOT’ should indicate on the instrument cluster. This indicates all other components are working properly.

Refer to Chapter 10 for ECT testing. Polaris dealers can also test the sensor by using the Digital Wrench™ Diagnostic Software

(dealer only). Refer to the Digital Wrench™ User Guide for more information.

ECT Sensor Resistance Readings

Temperature

°

F (

°

C) Resistance

68

°

F (20

°

C)

212

°

F (100

°

C)

2.5 k

Ω

0.186 k

±

6%

Ω ±

2%

ECT Sensor Replacement

1.

Drain coolant to level below sensor.

2.

Disconnect sensor from engine harness.

3.

Using a wrench, remove and replace the sensor, applying a light coating of thread sealant to aid installation.

4.

Torque the sensor to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) .

= T

ECT Retaining Bolt Torque:

17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)

4.30


IGNITION COIL


The ignition coil is used to provide high voltage to fire the spark plugs. When the ignition key is on, DC voltage is present in primary side of the ignition coil windings. During engine rotation, an AC pulse is created within the crankshaft position sensor for each passing tooth on the flywheel. The two-tooth gap creates an “interrupt” input signal, corresponding to specific crankshaft position for PTO cylinder. This signal serves as a reference for the control of ignition timing. The ECU then calculates the time interval between the consecutive pulses, and determines when to trigger the voltage spike that induces the voltage from the primary to the secondary coil windings to fire the spark plugs.

Primary Test

Measure Between

Connector Pins

0.4

Ω

4

Ignition Coil

Secondary Test

Ignition Coil Tests

The ignition coil can be tested by using an ohm meter. Use the following illustration and specification table to test the ignition coil.

Ignition Coil Resistance Readings

Test

Primary

Secondary

Pin

Connection

Between 1 & 2

Between 3 & 2

Between

High Tension

Lead Ends

Resistance

0.4

5 k

Ω

Ω

Measure Between

End Caps

5 k

Ω

Ignition Coil / HT Lead Replacement

1.

Remove the driver and passenger seats.

2.

Remove the rear service panel to access the ignition coil.

3.

Disconnect the ignition coil harness and remove the high tension leads from the coil.

4.

Remove the fastener retaining the ignition coil and remove the coil from the vehicle. If replacing the high tension lead(s), remove the other end of the lead(s) from the spark plug.

5.

Install the new ignition coil and/or high tension lead(s).

= T

Ignition Coil Retaining Bolt Torque:

75 in. lbs. (8.5 Nm)

4.31


GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING

Diagnostic “Blink Codes”

NOTE: The EFI diagnostic mode is intended to quickly view the cause of the “Check Engine” light.

To recall blink codes (fail codes) from the ECU:

1.

Verify the key switch is off and the transmission is in neutral with the parking brake applied.

2.

Turn the key switch ON and OFF 3 times within 5 seconds and leave the key switch in the ON position on the third turn. The word “Wait” will appear as the ECU searches for blink codes.

3.

Any “blink codes” stored in the ECU will display a numerical “blink code”, one at a time, in numerical order, on the instrument cluster display.

4.

The word “End” and/or the number “61” will display after all of the codes have been displayed or if no codes are present.

NOTE: To clear codes manually, disconnect the positive battery lead for 20 seconds.

DIAGNOSTIC “BLINK CODES” CHART

SAE C

ODE

B

LINK

C

ODE

P0107

P0108

P1260

P0261

P0262

P1263

P0264

P0265

P0335

P0122

P0123

P0601

P0914

P0113

P0112

P0117

P0118

P0655

P1657

P1658

P1651

P1652

P1653

P1231

P1232

P1233

51

51

52

52

52

45

46

51

25

41

41

42

42

21

22

22

23

55

56

56

56

54

54

54

55

55

N

AME

Loss of Synchronization

TPS: Open or Short Circuit to Ground

TPS: Short Circuit to Battery

RAM Error: Defective ECU

Transmission Input: Invalid Gear

Intake Air Temp Sensor: Open or Short Circuit to +Sensor Voltage (ECU)

Intake Air Temp Sensor: Short Circuit to Ground

Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Short To Ground

Engine Temperature Sensor Circuit: Open or Short to Battery

Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit Low Input

Barometric Pressure Sensor: Circuit High Input

Injector 1: Open Load

Injector 1: Short Circuit to Ground

Injector 1: Short Circuit to Battery

Injector 2: Open Load

Injector 2: Short Circuit to Ground

Injector 2: Short Circuit to Battery

Engine Temperature Lamp: Open Load

Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground

Engine Temperature Lamp: Short Circuit to Battery

Diagnostic Lamp: Open Load

Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit to Ground

Diagnostic Lamp: Short Circuit To Battery

Pump Relay: Open Load

Pump Relay: Short Circuit to Ground

Pump Relay: Short Circuit to Battery

4.32

C

HECK

E

NGINE

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

Yes

EFI Troubleshooting

Fuel Starvation / Lean Mixture

Symptoms: Hard start or no start, bog, backfire, popping through intake / exhaust, hesitation, detonation, low power, spark plug erosion, engine runs hot, surging, high idle, idle speed erratic.

• No fuel in tank

• Restricted tank vent, or routed improperly

• Fuel lines or fuel injectors restricted

• Fuel filter plugged

• Fuel pump inoperative

• Air leak in system

• Intake air leak (throttle shaft, intake ducts, airbox or air cleaner cover)

• Incorrect throttle stop screw adjustment

Rich Mixture

Symptoms: Fouls spark plugs, black, sooty exhaust smoke, rough idle, poor fuel economy, engine runs rough/ misses, poor performance, bog, engine loads up, backfire.

• Air intake restricted (inspect intake duct)

• Air filter dirty/plugged

• Poor fuel quality (old fuel)

• Fouled spark plug

• TPS setting incorrect

• Injector failure


Poor Idle

Symptom: Idle Too High (If greater than 1300 RPM when engine is warm)

• Throttle stop screw set incorrect

• Throttle cable sticking, improperly adjusted, routed incorrectly

Symptom: Idle Too Low (if less than 900 RPM when engine is warm)

• Plugged air filter

• Leaking injector (rich condition)

• Belt dragging

• Throttle stop screw tampering

Symptom: Erratic Idle

• Throttle cable incorrectly adjusted

• Air Leaks, dirty injector

• TPS damaged or adjusted

• Tight valves

• Ignition timing incorrect

• Belt dragging

• Dirty air cleaner

• Engine worn

• Spark Plug fouled

• Throttle stop screw set incorrectly (out of sync with

ECU)

4

4.33


EFI SYSTEM BREAKOUT DIAGRAMS

Diagnostic Connector Circuit

Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Circuit

4.34

Fuel Injector (PTO) Circuit


4

Fuel Injector (MAG) Circuit

4.35


Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECT) Circuit

Engine Overheat Lamp Driver Circuit

4.36

Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS) Circuit


4

Air Temperature / Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (T-BAP) Circuit

4.37


Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Circuit

Fuel Pump Circuit

4.38

BODY / STEERING / SUSPENSION

CHAPTER 5


TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.2

SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.2

CAB FRAME . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.3

ASSEMBLY / REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.3

BODY EXPLODED VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.4

DASH INSTRUMENTS / CONTROLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.4

FRONT BUMPER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5

REAR BUMPER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.5

HOOD / FRONT BODY WORK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.6

SEAT ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.7

SEAT BELTS / MOUNTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.7

FLOOR / ROCKER PANELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8

REAR CARGO BOX / FENDERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.9

CHASSIS / MAIN FRAME. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.10

BODY COMPONENT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11

SEATS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11

REAR SERVICE PANEL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11

FRONT BUMPER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11

REAR BUMPER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.11

HOOD AND FRONT BODY WORK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.12

ROCKER PANELS, CONSOLE AND FLOOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.13

REAR FENDERS AND CARGO BOX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.13

STEERING ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.14

EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.14

WHEEL HUBS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.15

FRONT HUB EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.15

REAR HUB EXPLODED VIEW. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.15

FRONT A-ARMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.16

REMOVAL / REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.16

EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.17

BALL JOINT SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.17

REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.17

INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.18

FRONT STABILIZER BAR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.19

SWAY BAR LINKAGE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.19

STABILIZER BAR REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.19

EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.20

REAR A-ARMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.21

REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.21

INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.22

REAR STABILIZER BAR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.23

REMOVAL / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.23

SHOCKS / SPRINGS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.24

EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.24

SHOCK REMOVAL / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.24

SHOCK REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.24

DECAL REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.24

5

5.1


TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

ITEM TORQUE VALUE ft.lbs. (Nm)

Front LH / RH Upper

A-Arm Bolt

Front LH / RH Lower

A-Arm Bolt

Rear LH / RH Upper

Control Arm Bolt

Rear LH / RH Lower

Control Arm Bolts

Lower LH / RH

Rear Bearing Carrier

Upper LH / RH

Rear Bearing Carrier

Outer Tie Rod to

Bearing Housing

Front Ball Joint Pinch Bolts

Front Upper / Lower

Shock Bolt

Rear Upper / Lower

Shock Bolt

Front Wheel Hub Castle Nut

Rear Wheel Hub Castle Nut

Wheel Nuts (Cast Rims)

Wheel Nuts (Steel Rims)

Tie Rod End Jam Nut

Seat Belt to Seat Base

Steering Wheel to Shaft

Upper Steering Shaft to

U-Joint Shaft

Lower Steering Shaft to Box

Steering Box

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

42.5 ft. lbs. (58 Nm)

17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)

27-33 ft. lbs. (37-45 Nm)

27-33 ft. lbs. (37-45 Nm)

80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm)

27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

12-14 ft. lbs. (17-19 Nm

40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

25-31 ft. lbs. (34-42 Nm)

15-19 ft. lbs. (20-26 Nm)

30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)

17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)

NOTE: Refer to exploded views throughout this chapter for more torque specifications, component identification, and location of components.

SPECIAL TOOLS


Shock Spanner Wrench

Shock Spring Compressor Tool

Multi-Function Pliers

PART NUMBER

2870872

2870623

2876389

Multi-Function Pliers

Included in the tool kit, the multi-function pliers is designed to remove the plastic push rivets used to fasten body components.

Pliers

Push Rivet

5.2


CAB FRAME

Assembly / Removal

NOTE: Finger tighten all components until cab frame is completely assembled on vehicle, then tighten to specifications listed.

1.

Assemble the rear cab frame and the front cab frame at the coupler joints and secure with four (3/8-16 x 1 1/4) screws and

(3/8-16 Nyloc) nuts. Tighten screws to 25-28 ft. lbs. (34-38 Nm).

2.

Place the assembled cab frame onto the vehicle and align the rear mount holes. Fasten the rear cab frame brackets to vehicle with four (5/16-18) bolts and (5/16-18) nuts. Tighten bolts to 16-18 ft. lbs. (22-24 Nm). Fasten the two tap screws to the rear inner portion of the bracket on each side. Tighten tap screws to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

3.

Fasten the front of the cab frame to the base brackets and secure with four (3/8-16 x 1 1/4) screws and (3/8-16 Nyloc) nuts.

Tighten screws to 25-28 ft. lbs. (34-38 Nm).

4.

Attach the cab frame to the side bars mounted on vehicle. Tighten screws to 8-9 ft. lbs. (11-12 Nm).

5.

To remove the cab frame, reverse the assembly procedure (steps 1-4).

5

5.3


BODY EXPLODED VIEWS

Dash Instruments / Controls

A. Instrument Cluster (Speedo)

B. Headlight Switch

C. 2WD/AWD Switch

D. 12 Volt Accessory Receptacle

E. Speedometer “Mode” Button

F. Key Switch

G. Work Light Switch

F

A

E

G

C

B

D

5.4


Front Bumper

Front Bumper Support

O-Ring

Washer

Torx

Screw

T30

Screws

Radiator Screen

Front Bumper

T25

Screw

Headlight

T27

Screw

T27

Screw

Winch Pocket Cover

T25

Screws

5

Rear Bumper

LH Tail/Work Light

RH Tail/Work Light

Speed

Nuts

T27

Screw

T25

Screws

Rear Bumper

T27

Screws

5.5


Hood / Front Body Work

Center Hood Panel

Push Rivets

Front LH

Fender Flair

Grommet

Pin

Grommet

Push Rivets

Hood / Dash

5.6

T27

Screws

Push Rivets

Front RH

Fender Flair

Push Rivets

Reflector

Front Bumper

Winch Pocket Cover

Seat Assembly

Seat Back

Seat

Hoop Tube


48 in. lbs.

(5.4 Nm)

Seat Bottom

Latch Body Nuts

Lever

Spring

Plate

Cap

41-57 in. lbs.

(4.6-6.4 Nm)

41-57 in. lbs.

(4.6-6.4 Nm)

Seat Belts / Mounting

Driver

Seat

Passenger

Seat

Grommets

35 ft. lbs.

(47 Nm)

Seat Base Asm.

3 Point

Seat Belt

35 ft. lbs.

(47 Nm)

5

3 Point

Seat Belt

35 ft. lbs.

(47 Nm)

Latch

Plunger

3 Point

Seat Belt

35 ft. lbs.

(47 Nm)

35 ft. lbs.

(47 Nm)

Rear

Seat Base

5.7


Floor / Rocker Panels

Rear

Support Bracket

Self-Tapping

Screw

LH Rocker

Plastic Dart

Push Rivets

Console Cover

Self-Tapping

Screws

Self-Tapping

Screw

Rear

Support Bracket

Plastic Dart

Push Rivets

Front

Support Bracket

Plastic Dart

T27

Screw

Cup Holder

Front

Support Bracket

T27

Screw

U-Type

Nuts

Torx

Screws

RH Rocker

Self-Tapping

Screw

Self-Tapping

Screws

Main Floor

5.8


Rear Cargo Box / Fenders

Torx Screw

& Nut

Rear RH

Fender

Rear RH

Fender Flair

Push

Rivets

Tie Down

Bracket

Rear LH

Fender

Rear LH

Fender Flair

Push

Rivets

Tie Down

Bracket

Rear

Cargo Box

Torx Screw

& Nut

T25

Screws

Torx

Screws

T27

Screws

Rear LH

Panel Divider

5

T25

Screws

Grommet

Pin

Rear RH

Panel Divider

Heat Shield

T27

Screws

Bolts

Rear Main

Service Panel

Sound Foam

Cargo Box

Supports

5.9


Chassis / Main Frame

15 ft. lbs.

(20 Nm)

Bolt-In Brace

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

Rear Bumper

Support

Main Frame

15 ft. lbs.

(20 Nm)

Hitch

30 ft. lbs.

(41 Nm)

Skid Plate

6-8 ft. lbs.

(8-11 Nm)

5.10


BODY COMPONENT REMOVAL

Seats

1.

To remove the driver or passenger seat, lift upward on the latch lever located behind the seat bottom.

Front Bumper

1.

Remove the (4) push rivets from the sides of the front bumper.

Latch

Lever

Push

Rivets

Torx

Screws

2.

Lift upward and forward on the seat while lifting up on the latch lever and remove the seat from the vehicle.

Rear Service Panel

1.

Remove driver and passenger seats.

2.

To remove the service panel, pull panel towards the front of the vehicle to disengage the upper latch pins from the grommets.

2.

Remove the (6) Torx screws retaining the upper, middle and lower portion of the bumper.

5

3.

Disconnect the front head lamp connectors and remove the front bumper from the vehicle.

Rear Bumper

1.

Remove the (4) Torx screws retaining the upper portion of the rear bumper to the cargo box.

Service

Panel

2.

Remove the (4) Torx screws retaining the lower portion of the rear bumper to the frame.

3.

Remove the (2) fasteners retaining the middle portion of the rear bumper to the cargo box.

5.11


Hood and Front Body Work

Hood Remova l

1.

To remove the hood, lift up on the rear portion of the hood to disengage the pins from the grommets.

4.

Remove the (8) push rivets that attach the dash assembly to the rocker panels on each side.

Lift Up

HERE

5.

Remove the (2) Torx screws and (2) push rivets that retain the front and rear portions of the dash assembly and remove the dash assembly from the vehicle.

Push

Rivets

2.

Tilt the hood back to disengage the front tabs and remove the hood from the vehicle.

Front Body / Dash Remova l

1.

Remove the hood as previously described.

2.

Remove the front bumper (see “BODY COMPONENT

REMOVAL - Front Bumper”).

3.

Remove the front portion of the cab frame assembly to allow dash removal. Refer to “CAB FRAME - Assembly

/ Removal” for assembly torque specifications.

Torx

Screws

Front Fender Flair Removal

1.

If dash is installed, remove the (2) push rivets that attach the lower portion of the fender flair to the rocker panels.

2.

Remove the (6) push rivets and remove fender flairs from the dash assembly.

Remove

Remove

Remove

5.12


Rocker Panels, Console and Floor

Rocker Panel Removal

1.

Remove the (11) push rivets and (4) Torx screws from the

RH rocker panel and remove panel from the vehicle.

Remove the (12) push rivets and (4) Torx screws from the

LH rocker panel and remove panel from the vehicle.

Rear Fender, Flair and Tie Down Removal

1.

Remove the rear bumper (see “BODY COMPONENT

REMOVAL - Rear Bumper”).

2.

Remove the (8) push rivets that retain the rear portion of the rocker panels to the rear fenders.

3.

Remove the (3) push rivets and remove the fender flair from the rear fender.

4.

Remove the (3) Torx screws from the bottom side of the fender and the upper push rivet from the top side. Remove the fender from the vehicle.

5.

Remove the (4) fasteners that retain the tie-down brackets to the cargo box and remove from vehicle.

Push

Rivets

Tie-Down

Torx

Screws

Console and Floor Panel Removal

1.

Remove both rocker panels as previously described.

2.

Remove the front body / dash (see “BODY COMPONENT

REMOVAL - Front Body / Dash Removal”).

3.

Remove the (2) push rivets from the rear portion of the console and remove the (9) Torx screws retaining the console to the floor panel.

4.

Remove the shift handle knob and remove the console.

Push

Rivets

Floor

Panel

Torx

Screws

Push

Rivet

Fender

Fender

Flair

Push

Rivets

Cargo Box Assembly Removal

1.

Remove the seats and rear service panel (see “Seats” and

“Rear Service Panel”).

2.

Remove the (4) Torx screws retaining the lower portion of the rear bumper to the frame (see “Rear Bumper”).

3.

Remove the (4) screws from the middle of the cargo box.

5

Console

5.

Remove the (6) Torx screws from the upper front portion of the floor panel.

6.

Remove the (4) fasteners retaining the foot pedal bracket.

Disconnect the brake and throttle cables from the pedals and remove pedals from the vehicle.

7.

Remove the (3) push rivets retaining the fuse box.

8.

Remove the (2) push rivets retaining the rear fender wells to the floor panel.

9.

Remove steering shaft and remove floor panel from the vehicle.

4.

Remove the (4) Torx screws that attach the front portion of the cargo box to the frame.

5.

Remove the (8) push rivets that attach the rocker panels to the cargo box on each side.

6.

Cut the panduit strap, disconnect taillight/worklight wire connections and remove the box assembly from the vehicle.

5.13


STEERING ASSEMBLY

Exploded View

Cap

Steering Wheel

25-31 ft. lbs.

(34-42 Nm)

15-19 ft. lbs.

(20-26 Nm)

5.14

Wave Washers

Upper

Steering Shaft

Lower

Steering Shaft

23 ft. lbs.

(31 Nm)

7 ft. lbs.

(10 Nm)

Oil Locking

Shock Asm.

Bushing

Pivot Tube

42.5 ft. lbs.

(58 Nm)

Bushing

Bushing

Bushing

27-33 ft. lbs.

(37-45 Nm)

12 ft. lbs.

(16 Nm)

42.5 ft. lbs.

(58 Nm)

23 ft. lbs.

(31 Nm)

Bushing

Gear Box

Asm.

LH Boot

RH Boot

12-14 ft. lbs.

(16-19 Nm)

Boot

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

12-14 ft. lbs.

(16-19 Nm)

Nut

Tie Rod

Cotter Pin

Rod End


WHEEL HUBS

Front Hub Exploded View

Stud

Cone

Washers

Cotter Pin

Wheel Hub

Castle Nut

80 ft. lbs.

(108 Nm)

Sealed

Ball Bearing

Bolts

Bearing Carrier

Retaining

Ring

Brake Disc

Front Rim

5

Front Tire

Flanged Nuts

27 ft. lbs.

(37 Nm)

Rear Hub Exploded View

Valve

Stud

Cotter Pin

Wheel Hub

Cone

Washers

Castle Nut

80 ft. lbs.

(108 Nm)

Sealed

Ball Bearing

Bolts

Bearing Carrier

Retaining

Ring

Brake Disc

Front Rim

Front Tire

Flanged Nuts

27 ft. lbs.

(37 Nm)

Valve

5.15


FRONT A-ARMS

Removal / Replacement

The following procedure details upper and lower A-arm removal and replacement on one side of the vehicle.

1.

Elevate and safely support the front of the vehicle and remove the front wheel.

2.

Remove the lower shock fastener (A) from the upper Aarm.

3.

Remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt (B) from the front bearing carrier.

4.

Using a soft face hammer, tap on bearing carrier to loosen the upper A-arm ball joint end while lifting upward on the upper A-arm. Completely remove the ball joint end from the bearing carrier.

5.

Remove the front bumper to allow A-arm bolt removal.

6.

Loosen and remove the upper A-arm through-bolt fastener

(C) and remove the upper A-arm from the vehicle.

7.

Examine A-arm bushings and pivot tube (see “Exploded

View”). Replace if worn. Discard hardware.

15. Using a soft face hammer, tap on bearing carrier to loosen the lower A-arm ball joint end while pushing downward on the lower A-arm. Completely remove the ball joint end from the bearing carrier.

16. Loosen and remove the lower A-arm through-bolt fastener

(F) and remove the lower A-arm from the vehicle.

17. Examine A-arm bushings and pivot tube (see “Exploded

View”). Replace if worn. Discard hardware.

18. If not replacing the A-arm, thoroughly clean the A-arm and pivot tube.

19. Install new ball joint into A-arm. Refer to “Ball Joint

Replacement” section.

20. Insert new A-arm bushings and pivot tube into new A-arm.

21. Install new lower A-arm assembly onto vehicle frame.

Torque new bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) .

22. Insert lower A-arm ball joint end into the bearing carrier.

Install the lower ball joint pinch bolt (E) into the bearing carrier and torque bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) .

WARNING

Upon A-arm installation completion, test vehicle at low speeds before putting into service.

WARNING

The locking agent on the existing bolts was destroyed during removal. DO NOT reuse old hardware. Serious injury or death could result if fasteners come loose during operation.

8.

If not replacing the A-arm, thoroughly clean the A-arm and pivot tube.

9.

Install new ball joint into A-arm. Refer to “Ball Joint

Replacement” section.

10. Insert new A-arm bushings and pivot tube into new A-arm.

11. Install new upper A-arm assembly onto vehicle frame.

Torque new bolt to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) .

12. Insert upper A-arm ball joint end into the bearing carrier.

Install the upper ball joint pinch bolt (B) into the bearing carrier and torque bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) .

13. Attach shock to A-arm with spacer (D) and fastener (A)

(see “FRONT STABILIZER BAR - Exploded View”).

Torque lower shock bolt to 27-33 ft. lbs. (37-45 Nm) .

14. Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt (E) from the front bearing carrier.

5.16

Upper / Lower A-arm Bolt Torque:

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

Ball Joint Pinch Bolt Torque:

17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)

D

E

B

A

F

C

Exploded View

Upper

A-arm

Ball Joint

Pivot Tube

37 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm)


BALL JOINT SERVICE

Removal

IMPORTANT: Do not reuse a ball joint if it has been removed for any reason. If removed, it must be replaced. Use this removal procedure only when replacing the ball joint.

1.

The A-arm must be removed to perform this procedure

(see “FRONT A-ARMS - Removal / Replacement”).

Ball Joint

Bearing

Carrier

Pivot Tube

Pinch

Bolts

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

Ball Joint

CV Shield

Grease Zerk

37 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm)

Bushings

Grease

Zerk

Lower

A-arm

Bushing

Screws

Upper A-arm

Retaining Ring

2.

Remove the retaining ring from the ball joint.

3.

A driver must be used for the removal of the ball joint. Use the dimensions below to fabricate or locate the correct size driver to use in the following process.

Driver Dimensions

1.375 in.

(3.49 cm)

3 in.

(7.62 cm)

1.75 in.

(4.45 cm)

- Outside diameter of driver cannot be any larger than 1.75 in. (4.45 cm).

- Inside diameter cannot be any smaller than

1.375 in. (3.49 cm).

- Driver must be at least 3 in. (7.62 cm) tall.

5

5.17


4.

Use a press and correct size driver to remove the ball joint from the A-arm.

Correct

Driver Placement

Installation

1.

Place the A-arm in the correct position for ball joint installation. Face the A-arm end flat on top of the driver.

Carefully drive the ball joint into place until the ball joint is properly seated.

Press into the A-arm in this direction

The driver must fit the inside diameter of the

A-arm end.

Place driver HERE to support A-arm

Upper A-arm Shown

NOTE: The driver must fit the ball joint housing in the A-arm. This will allow the ball joint to be properly pressed out of the A-arm without damaging the Aarm.

Press out of the A-arm in this direction


2.

After the new ball joint is installed into the A-arm, install a NEW retaining ring.

Ball Joint


Place driver HERE to support A-arm

Upper A-arm

NEW

Retaining Ring

3.

Reinstall the A-arm (see “FRONT A-ARMS - Removal /

Replacement”).

4.

Repeat the ball joint service procedure for any additional

A-arm ball joint replacements.

5.18


FRONT STABILIZER BAR

Sway Bar Linkage Removal

1.

Elevate and safely support the front of the vehicle off the ground.

2.

Remove the lower shock mounting fasteners and spacers from both upper A-arms on each side of the vehicle (see

“Exploded View” on page 5.20).

3.

Remove the bolts that attach the upper portion of the linkages to the sway bar clamps and remove the linkages from the vehicle (see “Exploded View” on page 5.20).

4.

Inspect the linkage assemblies for signs of excessive wear or damage. Replace linkage assembly if damaged.

5.

Reverse the procedure for installation. Torque the linkage fasteners to 27-33 ft. lbs. (37-45 Nm) .

Stabilizer Bar Removal

1.

If stabilizer bar linkages are installed, remove the bolts that attach the upper portion of the linkages to the sway bar clamps (see “Exploded View” on page 5.20).

2.

Remove the front bumper (see “BODY COMPONENT

REMOVAL - Front Bumper”).

3.

Remove the (4) T30 Torx fasteners retaining the front bumper support to the frame.

Main

Frame

T30

Screws

Nuts

4.

Remove the (2) upper radiator retaining bolts.

5.

Remove the (4) bolts retaining the lower radiator mount bracket and remove the bracket from the frame.

6.

Allow radiator to sag down to allow access to recovery bottle retaining screws and filler neck retaining screws.

7.

Remove both sets of retaining screws and allow the recovery bottle and filler neck to hang down to access the

(4) bolts retaining the upper radiator mount bracket.

5

Bumper

Support

Recovery

Bottle

Filler

Neck

5.19


8.

Remove the (4) bolts retaining the upper radiator mount bracket and remove the bracket from the frame.

Exploded View

Main

Frame

Grease

Zerk

T30

Screws

Clamp

Stabilizer

Bar

Clamp

Mount

Bracket

9.

Lift up on the stabilizer bar and remove it from the vehicle.

Linkage

Nuts

Bushings

Linkage

Spacer

27-33 ft. lbs.

(37-45 Nm)

10. Inspect the stabilizer bar for straightness. Inspect the bushings and replace if needed.

11. Reverse the procedure for installation. Torque the linkage fasteners to 27-33 ft. lbs. (37-45 Nm).

5.20


REAR A-ARMS

Removal

The following procedure details upper and lower A-arm removal and replacement on one side of the vehicle. Repeat the following steps to remove the A-arm(s) from the opposite side.

NOTE: Use the exploded view in this section as a reference during the procedure (see page 5.22).

1.

Elevate and safely support the rear of the vehicle off the ground.

2.

Remove the wheel nuts, and rear wheel.

WARNING

The locking agent on the existing bolts was destroyed during removal. DO NOT reuse old hardware. Serious injury or death could result if fasteners come loose during operation.

6.

If not replacing the A-arm, thoroughly clean the a-arm and pivot tubes.

7.

Insert new A-arm bushings and pivot tubes into new A-arm.

Lower A-arm Removal

8.

While holding the stabilizer bar linkage, remove the lower nut retaining the linkage to the lower A-arm.

Hold HERE with open-end wrench

5

Upper A-arm Removal

3.

Remove the fastener (A) attaching the upper A-arm to the bearing carrier.

Remove lower linkage nut

9.

Remove the fastener (C) retaining the lower portion of the shock to the lower A-arm.

B

E

C

A

4.

Remove the fastener (B) attaching the upper A-arm to the frame and remove the upper A-arm from the vehicle.

5.

Examine A-arm and bearing carrier bushings and pivot tubes (see “Exploded View” on page 5.22). Replace if worn. Discard hardware.

D

10. Remove the fastener (D) attaching the lower A-arm to the bearing carrier.

5.21


11. Remove the (2) fasteners (E) attaching the lower A-arm to the frame and remove the lower A-arm from the vehicle

(see previous illustration).

12. Examine A-arm and bearing carrier bushings and pivot tubes (see “Exploded View”). Replace if worn. Discard hardware.

13. If not replacing the A-arm, thoroughly clean the a-arm and pivot tubes.

14. Insert new A-arm bushings and pivot tubes into the new

A-arm.

Exploded View

Pivot Tube

Upper

A-arm

Bushings

Installation

1.

Install lower A-arm assembly onto vehicle frame. Torque new fasteners to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) .

2.

Attach lower A-arm to bearing carrier. Torque new fastener to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) .

3.

Route brake line on top of the lower A-arm and between lower shock mounting tabs.

4.

Reinstall the lower portion of the shock to the lower A-arm.

Torque shock fastener to 27-33 ft. lbs. (37-45 Nm) .

5.

Install upper A-arm assembly onto vehicle frame. Torque new fastener to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) .

6.

Attach upper A-arm to bearing carrier. Torque new fastener to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) .

7.

Install wheel and torque wheel nuts to specification.

37 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm)

Bearing

Carrier

Grease

Zerk

Pivot

Tube

Lower

A-arm

Bushings

37 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm)

37 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm)

Bushings

37 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm)

Pivot

Tube

Pivot

Tube

CV

Shield

Screws

WARNING

Upon A-arm installation completion, test vehicle at low speeds before putting into service.

5.22


REAR STABILIZER BAR

Removal / Installation

1.

Remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust silencer from the vehicle.

4.

Remove the stabilizer bar and bracket from the frame as an assembly.

Bushings

Remove

Fasteners through the side of the vehicle after the exhaust pipe is detached from the header pipe.

2.

Remove the retaining nut from the upper portion of the stabilizer bar linkage bushing on each side of the vehicle.

5.

Inspect the stabilizer bar for straightness. Inspect the bushings and replace if needed.

6.

Inspect the rubber bushings on the linkage rod and replace if needed.

5

7.

Reverse the procedure for installation. Torque the stabilizer bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) .

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

Bushing

Grease

Zerk

Bushing Stabilizer Bar

Linkage

Remove Nut

3.

Remove the (4) fasteners retaining the stabilizer bar bracket to the frame.

Linkage

18 ft. lbs.

(24 Nm)

Bracket

Bushing

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

5.23


SHOCKS / SPRINGS

Exploded View

DECAL REPLACEMENT

Spring

Shock

27-33 ft. lbs.

(37-45 Nm)

Spring

Retainer

Adjusting Cam

27-33 ft. lbs.

(37-45 Nm)

Shock Removal / Installation

1.

Elevate the vehicle off the ground to relieve the suspension load.

2.

Remove the upper and lower fasteners retaining the shock and remove the shock from the vehicle.

3.

Reverse the procedure to reinstall the shock. Torque new fasteners to 27-33 ft. lbs. (37-45 Nm) .

Shock Replacement

1.

Using a spring compressor, compress the shock spring far enough to remove the spring retainer.

Shock Spring

Compressor Tool

2870623

WARNING

The following procedure involves the use of an open flame. Perform this procedure in a well ventilated area, away from gasoline or other flammable materials. Be sure the area to be flame treated is clean and free of gasoline or flammable residue.

WARNING

Do not flame treat components that are installed on the vehicle. Remove the component from the vehicle before flame treating.

The side panels, front and rear fender cabs are plastic polyethylene material. Therefore, they must be “flame treated” prior to installing a decal to ensure good adhesion. A bonus of the flame treating procedure is it can be used to reduce or eliminate the whitish stress marks that are sometimes left after a fender or cab is bent, flexed, or damaged.

To flame treat the decal area:

1.

Pass the flame of a propane torch back and forth quickly over the area where the decal is to be applied until the surface appears slightly glossy. This should occur after just a few seconds of flame treating. Do not hold the torch too close to the surface (2-3 inches from the flame tip is recommended). Keep the torch moving to prevent damage.

2.

Apply the decal on one edge first. Slowly lay down remainder of the decal while rubbing lightly over the decal surface to eliminate any air bubbles during the application.

2.

Remove the spring and adjusting cam from the existing shock and install components onto the new shock.

3.

Compress the shock spring and install the spring retainer.

4.

Reinstall the shock onto the vehicle and torque new fasteners to 27-33 ft. lbs. (37-45 Nm) .

5.24

CLUTCHING

CHAPTER 6

CLUTCHING

SPECIAL TOOLS AND SUPPLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2


PVT SYSTEM FASTENER TORQUES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2

PVT SYSTEM OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2

GENERAL OPERATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2

DRIVE CLUTCH OPERATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2

DRIVEN CLUTCH OPERATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3

PVT BREAK-IN (DRIVE BELT / CLUTCHES) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3

MAINTENANCE / INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.3

OVERHEATING / DIAGNOSIS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.4

PVT SYSTEM SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5

PVT SEALING AND DUCTING COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5

DISASSEMBLY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.5

ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.6

DRIVE BELT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.7

BELT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.7

BELT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8

BELT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8

PVT BREAK-IN (DRIVE BELT / CLUTCHES) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.8

DRIVE CLUTCH SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.9

SPRING SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.9

SHIFT WEIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.10

EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.11

CLUTCH DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.11

SPIDER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.12

ROLLER, PIN, AND THRUST WASHER INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.13

BUTTON TO TOWER CLEARANCE INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.13

SHIFT WEIGHT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.13

BEARING INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.14

CLUTCH INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.14

MOVEABLE SHEAVE BUSHING INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.15

BUSHING SERVICE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.16

CLUTCH ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.18

DRIVEN CLUTCH SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.19

CLUTCH DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.19

BUSHING SERVICE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.21

CLUTCH ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.23

EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.26


6

6.1

CLUTCHING

SPECIAL TOOLS AND SUPPLIES


Drive Clutch Puller (Short)

Clutch Holding Wrench

Clutch Holding Fixture

Spider Nut Socket

Drive Clutch Spider Removal and

Installation Tool

Roller Pin Tool

Clutch Bushing Replacement

Tool Kit

Piston Pin Puller

Clutch Compression Tool

Clutch Bushing Replacement

Tool Kit

PART NUMBER

PA-48595

9314177

2871358

2870338

2870341

2870910

2871226

2870386

8700220

2871025

SPECIAL SUPPLIES

Loctite™ 680

RTV Silicone Sealer

PART NUMBER

2870584

8560054


PVT System Fastener Torques

ITEM

Drive Clutch Retaining Bolt

Driven Clutch Retaining Bolt

PVT Inner Cover Bolts

TORQUE VALUE ft. lbs. (Nm)

40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)

17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)

12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm)

PVT Outer Cover Bolts

Drive Clutch Spider

Drive Clutch Spider Lock Nut

(Plastic)

45-50 in. lbs (5-5.6 Nm)

200 ft. lbs. (271 Nm)

15 ft. lbs. (20.3 Nm)

Drive Clutch Cover Plate 90 in. lbs. (10 Nm)

PVT SYSTEM OVERVIEW

General Operation

WARNING

All PVT maintenance or repairs should be performed only by a certified Polaris Master

Service Dealer (MSD) technician who has received the proper training and understands the procedures outlined in this manual.

Because of the critical nature and precision balance incorporated into the PVT components, it is absolutely essential that no disassembly or repair be made without factory authorized special tools and service procedures.

The Polaris Variable Transmission (PVT) consists of three major assemblies:

1) The Drive Clutch

2) The Driven Clutch

3) The Drive Belt

The internal components of the drive clutch and driven clutch control engagement (initial vehicle movement), clutch upshift and backshift. During the development of the Polaris vehicle, the PVT system is matched first to the engine power curve; then to average riding conditions and the vehicle’s intended usage.

Therefore, modifications or variations of components at random are never recommended. Proper clutch setup and careful inspection of existing components must be the primary objective when troubleshooting and tuning.

Drive Clutch Operation

Drive clutches primarily sense engine RPM. The two major components which control its shifting function are the shift weights and the coil spring. Whenever engine RPM is increased, centrifugal force is created, causing the shift weights to push against rollers on the moveable sheave, which is held open by coil spring preload. When this force becomes higher than the preload in the spring, the outer sheave moves inward and contacts the drive belt. This motion pinches the drive belt between the spinning sheaves and causes it to rotate, which in turn rotates the driven clutch.

At lower RPM, the drive belt rotates low in the drive clutch sheaves. As engine RPM increases, centrifugal force causes the drive belt to be forced upward on drive clutch sheaves.

6.2

Driven Clutch Operation

Driven clutches primarily sense torque, opening and closing according to the forces applied to it from the drive belt and the transmission input shaft. If the torque resistance at the transmission input shaft is greater than the load from the drive belt, the drive belt is kept at the outer diameter of the driven clutch sheaves.

As engine RPM and horsepower increase, the load from the drive belt increases, resulting in the belt rotating up toward the outer diameter of the drive clutch sheaves and downward into the sheaves of the driven clutch. This action, which increases the driven clutch speed, is called upshifting.

Should the throttle setting remain the same and the vehicle is subjected to a heavier load, the drive belt rotates back up toward the outer diameter of the driven clutch and downward into the sheaves of the drive clutch. This action, which decreases the driven clutch speed, is called backshifting.

In situations where loads vary (such as uphill and downhill) and throttle settings are constant, the drive and driven clutches are continually shifting to maintain optimum engine RPM. At full throttle a perfectly matched PVT system should hold engine

RPM at the peak of the power curve. This RPM should be maintained during clutch upshift and backshift. In this respect, the PVT system is similar to a power governor. Rather than vary throttle position, as a conventional governor does, the PVT system changes engine load requirements by either upshifting or backshifting.

PVT Break-In (Drive Belt / Clutches)

A proper break-in of the clutches and drive belt will ensure a longer life and better performance. Break in the clutches and drive belt by operating at slower speeds during the 10 hours as recommended (see Chapter 3 “Engine Break-In Period” for break-in example). Pull only light loads. Avoid aggressive acceleration and high speed operation during the break-in period.

CLUTCHING

Maintenance / Inspection

Under normal use the PVT system will provide years of trouble free operation. Periodic inspection and maintenance is required to keep the system operating at peak performance. The following list of items should be inspected and maintained to ensure maximum performance and service life of PVT components. Refer to the troubleshooting checklist at the end of this chapter for more information.

1.

Belt Inspection.

2.

Drive and Driven Clutch Buttons and Bushings, Drive

Clutch Shift Weights and Pins, Drive Clutch Spider

Rollers and Roller Pins, Drive and Driven Clutch

Springs.

3.

Sheave Faces.

Clean and inspect for wear.

4.

PVT System Sealing.

Refer to the appropriate illustration(s) on the following pages. The PVT system is air cooled by fins on the drive clutch stationary sheave. The fins create a low pressure area in the crankcase casting, drawing air into the system through an intake duct. The opening for this intake duct is located at a high point on the vehicle (location varies by model). The intake duct draws fresh air through a vented cover. All connecting air ducts

(as well as the inner and outer covers) must be properly sealed to ensure clean air is being used for cooling the PVT system and also to prevent water and other contaminants from entering the PVT area. This is especially critical on units subjected to frequent water forging.

6

6.3

CLUTCHING

Overheating / Diagnosis

During routine maintenance, or whenever PVT system overheating is evident, it’s important to check the inlet and outlet ducting for obstructions. Obstructions to air flow through the ducts will significantly increase PVT system operating temperatures. The vehicle should be operated in Low when plowing or pulling heavy loads, or if extended low speed operation is anticipated.

CLUTCH DRIVE BELT & COVER RELATED ISSUES: DIAGNOSIS

Possible Causes

Loading the vehicle into a truck or tall trailer when in high range.

Solutions / What to do

Shift transmission to Low during loading of the vehicle to prevent belt burning.

Starting out going up a steep incline from a stopped position.

When starting out on an incline, use Low gear. Shift transmission to Low during loading of the vehicle to prevent belt burning.

Driving at low RPM or low ground speed

(at approximately 3-7 MPH).

Drive at higher speed or use Low. The use of Low is highly recommended for cooler PVT operating temperatures and longer component life.

Insufficient warm-up of vehicles exposed to low ambient temperatures.

Warm engine at least 5 min., then with transmission in neutral, advance throttle to approx. 1/8 throttle in short bursts, 5 to 7 times. The belt will become more flexible and prevent belt burning.

Slow and easy clutch engagement.

Fast, effective use of the throttle for efficient engagement.

Towing/Pushing at low RPM or low ground speed.

Plowing snow, dirt, etc./utility use.

Use Low only.

Stuck in mud or snow.

Use Low only.

Shift the transmission to Low, carefully use fast, aggressive throttle application to engage clutch. WARNING: Excessive throttle may cause loss of control and vehicle overturn.

Climbing over large objects from a stopped position.

Belt slippage from water or snow ingestion into the PVT system.

Clutch malfunction.

Poor engine performance.

GENERAL RANGE OPERATION

GUIDELINES:

Shift the transmission to Low, carefully use fast, aggressive, brief throttle application to engage clutch. WARNING: Excessive throttle may cause loss of control and vehicle overturn.

Shift the transmission to neutral. Using the throttle, vary the engine rpm from idle to full throttle. Repeat several times as required. During this procedure, the throttle should not be held at the full position for more than 10 seconds.

Clutch seals should be inspected for damage if repeated leaking occurs.

Clutch component inspection should be performed by a Polaris MSD certified technician.

Fouled spark plugs, foreign material in fuel tank, restricted fuel lines, or faulty fuel pump may cause symptoms similar to clutching malfunction.

Low: Heavy pulling, basic operational speeds less than 7 MPH, riding through rough terrain (swamps, mountains, ect.), or low ground speeds.

High: High ground speeds, or speeds above 7 MPH.

Operating in Low Gear

“Low” gear should be used when pulling heavy loads, riding through rough terrain, or when basic operational ground speeds are less than 7 MPH. Use “High” gear when basic operational ground speeds are more than 7 MPH.

IMPORTANT: Using “High” for heavy loads, hilly terrain, or in wet, muddy conditions will increase the chance of drive belt burning.

6.4

CLUTCHING

PVT SYSTEM SERVICE

PVT Sealing and Ducting Components

Inner

Clutch Cover

Clutch

Inlet Duct

Clamps

Clutch

Outlet Duct

Boot

Push

Rivets

Boot

Bolt/Washer

Retainer

Screws

Outer

Cover Seal

Outer

Clutch Cover

Clamps

Cover

Screws

6

Disassembly

Some fasteners and procedures will vary. Refer to the appropriate parts manual for proper fasteners and fastener placement.

1.

Remove driver and passenger seats (see Chapter 5).

2.

Remove the rear service panel to gain access to the outer clutch cover (see Chapter 5).

3.

Remove the (2) push rivets and (2) fasteners retaining the rear seat base, and remove the seat base from vehicle to allow clutch cover removal.

4.

Loosen the hose clamp on the clutch outlet duct.

5.

Remove outer clutch cover screws and remove the clutch cover.

6.

Mark the drive belt direction of rotation and remove drive belt (see “DRIVE BELT - Belt Removal”).

Mark Rotation

7.

Remove the driven clutch retaining bolt and driven clutch.

6.5

CLUTCHING

8.

Remove driven clutch offset spacers from the transmission input shaft.

Keep Spacers In Order (Note Thickness)

Retaining

Bolt

Assembly

1.

Inspect inner clutch cover-to-engine seal. Replace if cracked or damaged.

2.

Place a new foam seal on transmission input shaft.

3.

Apply RTV silicone sealant to outside edge of inner clutch cover-to-engine seal, to ensure a water tight fit between the seal and the cover. Surfaces must be clean to ensure adhesion of silicone sealant.

Apply RTV Silicone Here

9.

Install the Drive Clutch Holder (PN 9314177) (A).

10. Remove drive clutch retaining bolt and remove drive clutch using the Drive Clutch Puller (PA-48595) (B).

A

4.

Reinstall cover and tighten rear cover bolts just enough to hold it in place.

5.

Fit lip of inner cover seal (A) to engine. Install seal retainer plate and tighten screws securely.

B

C

B

A

Drive Clutch Puller ( PA-48595)

Drive Clutch Holder (9314177)

11. Remove the screws that attach the inner clutch cover to the engine and transmission.

Seal outer edge to cover with RTV silicone sealant

6.

Torque rear inner clutch cover bolts (B) to specification.

7.

Install clutch offset spacers on transmission input shaft.

Offset Spacers

12. Remove the cover along with foam seal on back of cover or shaft.

6.6

CLUTCHING

8.

Clean splines inside driven clutch and on the transmission input shaft.

9.

Apply a light film of grease to the splines on the shaft.

10. Install the driven clutch, washer, lock washer, and retaining bolt. Torque to specification.

11. Clean end of taper on crankshaft and the taper bore inside drive clutch.

12. Install drive clutch and torque retaining bolt to specification.

13. Reinstall drive belt noting direction of belt rotation (see

“DRIVE BELT - Belt Installation”). If a new belt is installed, install so numbers can be easily read.

14. Replace outer clutch cover rubber gasket with the narrow side out.

15. Reinstall outer clutch cover and secure with screws.

Torque to 45-50 in. lbs. (5-5.6 Nm) .

16. Install the clutch cover outlet duct and tighten the clamps.

DRIVE BELT

Belt Removal

1.

Remove outer clutch cover as described in PVT

Disassembly.

2.

Mark the drive belt direction of rotation so that it can be installed in the same direction.

NOTE: Belt is normally positioned so that the part number can be easily read.

3.

To remove drive belt, place the transmission in “Park” and push down on the belt firmly to open the clutch sheaves.

6

4.

Then lift upward on the belt while pulling it out and down over the driven clutch outer sheave.

Inner Cover Bolt Torque (Rear):

12 ft. lbs. (16.6 Nm)

Outer Cover Bolt Torque:

45-50 in. lbs. (5-5.6 Nm)

Driven Clutch Retaining Bolt Torque:

17 ft. lbs. (23.5 Nm)

Drive Clutch Retaining Bolt Torque:

40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm)

6.7

CLUTCHING

Belt Inspection

Projected Belt Width

Belt Installation

NOTE: Be sure to position belt in the same position as when removed or so part number is easily read.

1.

Loop belt over the drive clutch and over top of the driven sheave.

Belt Width

New: 1.188” (3.02 cm)

Wear Limit: 1.157 (2.94 cm)

1.

Measure belt width and replace if worn severely.

• The top edges have been trimmed on some drive belts.

It will be necessary to project the side profiles and measure from corner to corner.

• Place a straight edge on each side of the drive belt.

• Place another straight edge on top of belt.

• Measure the distance where the side straight edges intersect the top.

2.

Inspect belt for loose cords, missing cogs, cracks, abrasions, thin spots, or excessive wear. Replace if necessary.

3.

Inspect belt for hour glassing (extreme circular wear in at least one spot and on both sides of the belt). Hour glassing occurs when the drive train does not move and the drive clutch engages the belt.

2.

While pushing down on top of belt, turn the back, or moveable driven sheave, clockwise.

3.

The belt then should be able to be pushed down into and between the sheaves.

Belt Outer Circumference

New: 40.89” (103.85 cm)

Wear Limit: 41.08” (104.34 cm)

4.

Measure belt length with a tape measure around the outer circumference of the belt.

5.

Replace belt if worn past the wear limit. Belts with thin spots, burn marks, etc., should be replaced to eliminate noise, vibration, or erratic PVT operation. See the

Troubleshooting Chart at the end of this chapter for possible causes.

6.8

PVT Break-In (Drive Belt / Clutches)

A proper break-in of the clutches and drive belt will ensure a longer life and better performance. Break in the clutches and drive belt by operating at slower speeds during the 10 hour break-in period as recommended (see Chapter 3 “Engine

Break-In Period” for break-in example). Pull only light loads.

Avoid aggressive acceleration and high speed operation during the break-in period.

CLUTCHING

DRIVE CLUTCH SERVICE

Spring Specifications

The drive clutch spring has two primary functions:

1.

To control clutch engagement RPM. The springs which have a higher rate when the clutch is in neutral will increase clutch engagement RPM.

2.

To control the rate at which the drive belt moves upward in the drive clutch sheaves. This is referred to as drive clutch upshift.

There are other components which control upshift, but the spring is one of the primary components in insuring optimum performance. It is very important that the spring is of the correct design and is in good condition.

CAUTION

Never shim a drive clutch spring to increase its compression rate. This may result in complete stacking of the coils and subsequent clutch cover failure.

The drive clutch spring is one of the most critical components of the PVT system. It is also one of the easiest to service. Due to the severe relaxation the spring is subject to during operation, it should always be inspected for tolerance limits during any clutch operation diagnosis or repair.

With the spring resting on a flat surface, measure its free length from the outer coil surfaces as shown. Refer to the spring specification chart for specific free length measurements and tolerances. Also check to see that spring coils are parallel to one another. Distortion of the spring indicates stress fatigue, requiring replacement.

Primary Clutch Springs Secondary Clutch Springs

PART

NUMBER

7041021

7041022

7041063

7041132

7041168

7041157

7042202

COLOR CODE

Plain

Black

Purple

White

Green

Blue/Green

Blue/Gray

WIRE

DIAMETER

.157"

.140"

.168"

.177"

.177"

.177"

.187"

FREE LENGTH

± .125”

4.38"

4.25"

4.37"

2.92"

3.05"

2.53"

2.55"

PART

NUMBER

3234199

DESCRIPTION

White/Yellow

6.9

6

CLUTCHING

Shift Weights

Shown below are the shift weights which have been designed for the PVT system. These shift weights have many factors designed into them for controlling engagement RPM and shifting patterns. Shift weights should not be changed or altered without first having a thorough understanding of their positioning and the effects they may have on belt to sheave clearance, clutch balance and shifting pattern.

6.10

CLUTCHING

Exploded View

Non-Braking

Bearing

Bearing

Spacer

Limiter

Spring

Spider

Cover

Bearing

Bushing Lock

Washer

Roller

Bolt

Button

Cover

Screws

Flat

Washer

Pin

Washers

Button

Nut

Bolt

Shift

Weight

Washers

Clutch Disassembly

1.

Using a permanent marker, mark the cover, spider, and moveable and stationary sheaves for reference, as the cast in X's may not have been in alignment before disassembly.

3.

Inspect cover bushing (A). The outer cover bushing is manufactured with a Teflon

™

coating. Wear is determined by the amount of Teflon

™

remaining on the bushing.

A

6

2.

Remove cover bolts evenly in a cross pattern and remove cover plate.

Cover Bushing Inspection:

Replace the cover bushing if more

brass than Teflon

™

is visible on the bushing. Refer to bushing replacement in this chapter.

6.11

CLUTCHING

4.

Inspect area on shaft where bushing rides for wear, galling, nicks, or scratches. Replace clutch assembly if worn or damaged.

Inspect Shaft

NOTE: It is important that the same number and thickness of washers are reinstalled beneath the spider during assembly. Be sure to note the number and thickness of these washers.

To maintain proper clutch balance and belt-to-sheave clearance, be sure to reinstall original quantity and thickness washers

5.

Remove and inspect the clutch spring. See “Drive Clutch

Spring Specifications” for spring inspection.

Moveable Sheave Bushing Inspection

3.

Inspect the Teflon™ coating on the moveable sheave bushing.

Spider Removal

1.

Remove the limiter nut using the Clutch Spider Nut Socket

(PN 2870338).

2.

Install clutch in holding fixture (PN 2871358) and loosen the spider (counterclockwise) using Clutch Spider

Removal Tool (PN 2870341).

Teflon

TM

Moveable Sheave Bushing Inspection:

Replace the cover bushing if more brass than Teflon is visible on the bushing.

Refer to bushing replacement in this chapter.

Clutch Holding Fixture:

(PN 2871358)

Spider Removal Tool:

(PN 2870341)

6.12

CLUTCHING

Roller, Pin, and Thrust Washer Inspection

1.

Inspect all rollers, bushings and roller pins by pulling a flat metal rod across the roller. Turn roller with your finger. If you notice resistance, galling, or flat spots, replace rollers, pins and thrust washers in sets of three. Also inspect to see if roller and bushing are separating. Bushing must fit tightly in roller. Use the Roller Pin Tool (PN 2870910) to replace rollers and pins. Take care not to damage roller bushing or bearing surface of the new pin during installation.

Button To Tower Clearance Inspection

1.

Inspect for any clearance between spider button to tower.

If clearance exists, replace all buttons and inspect surface of towers.

See “Spider Removal” procedure.

Button to Tower Clearance:

000-.001”

2.

Rubber backed buttons can be used in all RANGER clutches if the hollow roller pin is changed to the solid roller pin.

NOTE: The rubber side of the button is positioned toward the solid roller pin.

2.

Inspect sheave surfaces. Replace the entire clutch if worn, damaged or cracked.

Shift Weight Inspection

WARNING

The clutch assembly is a precisely balanced unit. Never replace parts with used parts from another clutch assembly!

1.

If clutch is not disassembled, inspect as shown, using a clutch holding tool to compress the moveable sheave. The contact surface of the weight should be smooth and free of dents or gall marks.

6

6.13

CLUTCHING

2.

Remove shift weight bolts and weights. Inspect as shown.

The contact surface of the weight should be smooth and free of dents or gall marks. Inspect the weight pivot bore and pivot bolts for wear or galling. If weights or bolts are worn or broken, replace in sets of three with new bolts.

Clutch Inspection

NOTE: Remove cover, spring, and spider following instructions for drive clutch removal, then proceed as follows:

1.

Remove the moveable sheave spacer sleeve (1) and the thrust washer (2). Visually inspect the washer for damage.

2.

Measure the thickness and compare to specification.

Replace if worn or damaged.

1

Broken Worn Good

NOTE: A damaged shift weight is usually caused by a damaged or stuck roller in the spider assembly.

See “Roller, Pin and Thrust Washer Inspection”.

Bearing Inspection

1.

Rotate non-braking clutch bearing in both clockwise and counter-clockwise directions. The non-braking bearing should rotate both directions on the shaft with only a slight amount of drag.

2.

Verify there is no binding or rough spots. If problems are noted in either direction, continue with disassembly.

=

2

In. / mm.

Thrust Washer Thickness

Standard: .030” (.76mm)

Service Limit: .025” (.64mm)

3.

Remove the moveable clutch sheave.

4.

Lift bearing (3) and thrust washer (4) off shaft. Replace as an assembly if worn, damaged, or if problems were noted.

3

4

6.14

CLUTCHING

5.

Inspect surface of shaft for pitting, grooves, or damage.

Measure the outside diameter and compare to specifications. Replace the drive clutch assembly if shaft is worn or damaged.

Moveable Sheave Bushing Inspection

Inspect the Teflon

™

coating (arrow) on the moveable sheave bushing. Inspect both sheaves for signs of wear, grooving or cracking. De-glaze sheave surfaces with a 3M

™

Scotch-Brite

Pad if needed.

= In. / mm.

Shaft Diameter:

Standard: 1.3745 - 1.375 (

Service Limit: 1.3730”

6.

Visually inspect PTFE thrust washer for damage. Measure the thickness and compare to specification. Replace if worn or damaged.

= In. / mm.

PTFE Washer Thickness

Standard: .030” (.76mm)

Service Limit: .025” (.64mm)

Moveable Sheave Bushing Inspection:

Replace the cover bushing if more brass than Teflon

™

is visible on the bushing.

Refer to bushing replacement in this chapter.

6

6.15

CLUTCHING

Bushing Service

IMPORTANT: Special Tools Required

EBS Clutch Bushing Tool Kit - 2201379

Item

A, B

C

D

E

--

Qty.

1

1

1

1

1

Part Description

EBS Puller Tool

EBS Puller Nut

EBS Main Adapter

EBS Bushing Removal Tool

Instructions

Part #

5132027

5132501

5132029

5132028

9915111

Additional Special Tools

Qty.

Part Description Part #

1 Clutch Bushing Replacement Tool Kit 2871226

1 Piston Pin Puller 2870386

* Clutch Bushing Replacement Tool Kit (PN 2871226 )

#2

#3

#5

CAUTION

Clutch components will be hot! In order to avoid serious burns, wear insulated gloves during the removal process.

Moveable Sheave - Bushing Removal

1.

Remove clutch as outlined previously in this chapter.

2.

Install handle end of the Piston Pin Puller (PN 2870386) securely into bench vise and lightly grease puller threads.

Piston Pin Puller (PN 2870386)

3.

Remove nut from puller rod and set aside.

Piston Pin Puller

(PN 2870386)

Main Puller Adaptor (#8)

(PN 5020632)

Item

#2

#3

#5

#8

#9

#10

#10

#8

Qty.

1

1

1


P-90 Drive/Driven Clutch

Bushing Install Tool

Drive Clutch Cover

Bushing Removal/

Installation Tool (all clutches)

P-90 Driven Clutch Cover

Bushing Removal Tool

1 Main Puller Adapter

1 Adapter Reducer

1

Number Two Puller

Adapter

#9

Part #

5020628

5020629

5020631

5020632

5010279

5020633

NOTE: Bushings are installed at the factory using

Loctite

™

609. In order to remove bushings it will be necessary to apply heat evenly to the area around each bushing. Clean all residual Loctite

™

from bushing bore prior to installing new bushing.

4.

Install puller adapter (Item 10 from kit PN 2871226 ).

5.

Install main adapter (Item D) onto puller.

Puller Tool (A,B)

Side “A” toward sheave

Nut (C)

Main

Adapter (D)

Puller

Adapter (10)

Piston Pin

Puller

6.

With towers pointing toward the vise, slide sheave onto puller rod.

7.

Install removal tool (Item A, B) into center of sheave with

“A side" toward sheave.

6.16

CLUTCHING

NOTE: Use Bushing Tool PA-47336.

8.

Install nut (C) onto end of puller rod and hand tighten. Turn puller barrel to increase tension on sheave if needed. Using a hand held propane torch, apply heat around outside of bushing until tiny smoke tailings appear.

9.

Turn sheave counterclockwise on puller rod until it comes free. Lift sheave off puller.

10. Remove nut from puller rod and set aside.

11. Pull bushing removal tool and adapter from puller rod.

Remove bushing from tool and discard.

Drive Clutch Bushing Installation

1.

Place main adapter (Item 8) on puller.

Puller Tool (A,B)

Side “A” toward sheave

Nut (C)

Cover Bushing Removal

1.

Install main adapter (Item 8) on puller.

Removal Tool

(3)

Nut (C)

Main

Adapter (8)

Adapter Reducer

(9)

Piston Pin

Puller

Bushing

Main Adapter

(8)

Piston Pin

Puller

2.

Apply Loctite

™

609 evenly to bushing bore inside moveable sheave.

3.

Set bushing in place on sheave.

4.

Insert installation puller tool (Item A/B) with “A” side down, into center of bushing.

NOTE: 800 EFI Clutch - Use Bushing Tool PA-47336 .

5.

With towers pointing upward, slide sheave, bushing and tool onto puller rod.

6.

Install nut on puller rod and hand tighten. Turn barrel to apply additional tension if needed.

7.

Turn sheave counterclockwise, making sure bushing is drawn straight into bore. Continue until bushing is seated.

8.


9.

Remove sheave from puller.

10. Remove installation tool.

2.

Install adapter reducer (Item 9).

3.

From outside of clutch cover, insert removal tool (Item 3) into cover bushing.

4.

With inside of cover toward vise, slide cover onto puller.

5.

Install nut onto puller rod and hand tighten. Turn puller barrel to increase tension as needed.

6

6.

Turn clutch cover counterclockwise on puller rod until bushing is removed and cover comes free.

7.


8.

Remove bushing and bushing removal tool from puller.

Discard bushing.

Cover Bushing Installation

1.

Apply Loctite

™

609 evenly to bushing bore in cover.

2.

Working from inside of cover, insert new bushing and bushing installation tool into center of clutch cover.

3.

With main adapter on puller, insert cover onto puller rod, placing outside of cover toward vise.

4.

Install nut on rod and hand tighten. Turn puller barrel to apply more tension if needed.

5.

Turn clutch cover counterclockwise on puller rod until bushing is seated.

6.

Remove nut from puller rod. Take installation tool and clutch cover off rod.

6.17

CLUTCHING

Clutch Assembly

NOTE: It is important that the same number and thickness of washers are reinstalled beneath the spider during assembly. The Teflon bushings are self-lubricating.

4.

Torque spider to specification using the holding fixture and spider tool. Torque with smooth motion to avoid damage to the stationary sheave.

= T

Spider Torque:

200 ft. lbs. (271 Nm)

CAUTION

Do not apply oil or grease to the bushings.

Reassemble the drive clutch in the following sequence. Be sure the “X”, or the marks that were made earlier are aligned during each phase of assembly.

CAUTION

Be sure the spider spacer washers are fully seated in the recessed area in the spider.

Any misalignment will alter clutch balance.

Inverting the clutch while initially tightening the spider will help position the washers.

5.

Install limiter nut on top of spider using the Clutch Spider

Nut Socket ( PN 2870338 ). Torque to specification.

= T

Spider Nut Torque:

15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)

6.

Install shift weights using new lock nuts on the bolts.

1.

Install moveable sheave onto fixed sheave.

2.

Install spider spacers. Use same quantity and thickness as were removed.

Spacer washers

3.

Compress spider buttons for each tower and install spider, making sure that “X”, or the marks that were made earlier, on spider aligns with “X”, or the marks that were made earlier, in moveable sheave.

Nut on trailing side

Rotation

7.

Reinstall clutch spring.

8.

Reinstall cover, aligning “X” mark with other marks.

9.

Torque cover bolts evenly to specification.

= T

Cover Screw Torque:

90 in. lbs. (10.4 Nm)

6.18

CLUTCHING

DRIVEN CLUTCH SERVICE

Clutch Disassembly

1.

Remove driven clutch from the transmission input shaft.

Do not attempt disassembly of the driven clutch from the outside snap ring. The driven clutch must be disassembled from the helix side.

4.

Place the clutch into the Clutch Compression Tool PN

8700220 . Using Compression Extensions PN PS-45909 , press down on top of the spider assembly, compressing the spider onto the shaft. Remove snap ring (A) and slowly release the assembly.

Press down on spider

A

Do not disassemble from this side

2.

It is important to mark the position of the shaft, cam cover, and sheave before disassembly or use the X’s on the components for reference. This will aid in reassembly and helps to maintain clutch balance after reassembly.

5.

Remove the spider assembly, spring (B), and spacer washer

(C).

NOTE: Spring is compression only and has no torsional wind.

6

B

3.

Remove the four torx screws that secure the cam (helix) assembly using a T25 torx driver.

C

6.19

CLUTCHING

6.

Remove the inside spider plate (D) and spider dampener

(E). Inspect the spider dampener (E) for wear and replace if needed.

D

9.

Press out the spring pins (K) in the inner sheave.

K

E

7.

Remove the E-clips (F), washers (G), and the clutch rollers

(H). Inspect the rollers for wear; replace if worn.

10. Pull out the clutch roller pins (L) and rollers (M).

M

L

F G

H

K

11. Press the shaft and bearing out of the outer sheave using a press.

8.

Remove the clutch assembly from the holding tool.

Remove the large outer retaining ring (I) and the inner retaining ring (J).

J

Press Shaft and

Bearing Out

I

Inspect Bearing

6.20

CLUTCHING

12. Inspect the bearing for wear. Spin the bearing, if the bearing does not spin smoothly, replace it. To remove the bearing, press the bearing off the shaft.

Inspect Sheave Surface

13. Inspect the cam (helix) assembly bushing for wear. If the bushing is worn or the shaft does not fit snug into the bushing, replace the cam (helix) assembly.

Inspect Bushing

Bushing Service

IMPORTANT: Special Tools Required

EBS Clutch Bushing Tool Kit - 2201379

Item

A, B

C

D

E

--

Qty.

1

1

1

1

1


EBS Puller Tool

EBS Puller Nut

EBS Main Adapter

EBS Bushing Removal Tool

Instructions

Part #

5132027

5132501

5132029

5132028

9915111

Qty.

1

1

Additional Special Tools

Part Description Part #

Clutch Bushing Replacement Tool Kit 2871226

Piston Pin Puller 2870386

* Clutch Bushing Replacement Tool Kit (PN 2871226 )

#2

#3

#5

6

Item

#2

#3

#5

#8

#9

#10

#10

#8

Qty.

1

1

1


P-90 Drive/Driven Clutch

Bushing Install Tool

Drive Clutch Cover

Bushing Removal/

Installation Tool (all clutches)

P-90 Driven Clutch Cover

Bushing Removal Tool

1 Main Puller Adapter

1 Adapter Reducer

1

Number Two Puller

Adapter

#9

Part #

5020628

5020629

5020631

5020632

5010279

5020633

NOTE: Bushings are installed at the factory using

Loctite

™

609. In order to remove bushings it will be necessary to apply heat evenly to the area around each bushing. Clean all residual Loctite

™

from bushing bore prior to installing new bushing.

6.21

CLUTCHING

Clutch Bushing Removal

1.

Install main puller adapter (Item 8) onto puller.

2.

Install adapter reducer (Item 9).

3.

Using a hand held propane torch, apply heat around outside of bushing until tiny smoke tailings appear.

4.

Flip sheave over so bushing faces downward and install onto puller.

5.

Install bushing tool (Item 2).

Clutch Bushing Installation

1.

Install puller adapter (Item 10) onto puller.

2.

Install adapter (Item 9) onto puller.

6.

Install left hand nut (C) and spacer onto puller rod and tighten by hand. Turn puller barrel for further tension if needed.

7.

Turn clutch sheave counterclockwise until bushing is removed and sheave comes free.

8.

Remove nut (C) (left hand thread) from puller rod and set aside.

9.

Remove adapters from puller.

10. Remove bushing and removal tool from adapters. Discard bushing.

3.

Apply Loctite

™

609 evenly to bushing bore inside moveable sheave.

4.

Install sheave face down on puller.

5.

Install new bushing on installation tool (Item 2) and install assembly into sheave.

6.

Install left hand thread nut (C) onto puller rod and hand tighten against installation tool.

7.

Turn clutch sheave counterclockwise, making sure bushing is drawn straight into bore. Continue until bushing is seated.

8.

Remove nut (C) from puller rod and set aside.

9.

Remove installation tool and clutch sheave from puller.

6.22

Clutch Assembly

1.

Install a new bearing onto the output shaft using a press.

CLUTCHING

4.

Line up the “X” on the moveable sheave with the “X” on the stationary sheave or use the marks previously used. Put the sheaves together.

Align X’s

2.

Install the shaft/bearing into the outer sheave.

3.

Install the small and large retaining rings into the outer sheave above the bearing.

5.

Install the roller (A) onto the roller pin (B) on both sides.

A

B

6.23

6

CLUTCHING

6.

Install the roller pin into the sheave assembly on both sides.

The flat side of the roller pin faces downward when the shaft side is laying flat on the bench.

9.

Install the spring over the shaft.

Flat Side Down

7.

Install the spring pins (C) to secure the roller pins. Install until flush with sheave surface.

C

10. Install the clutch rollers (D) onto each side of the outside spider. Install the washers (E) and E-clips (F) to secure the rollers. The rollers should spin freely.

11. Install the spider dampener (G) inside the outer spider and install the inside spider plate (H).

Outer Spider

D

E

F

8.

Install the spacer washer.

Install

Spacer Washer

G

H

12. Install the spider assembly onto the shaft with the retaining ring on top of the spider. NOTE: Use the marks previously made to align the skip tooth spider, or use the “X” on top of the spider and align it with the skip tooth on the shaft.

Align Marks

6.24

CLUTCHING

13. Place the clutch into Clutch Compression Tool PN

8700220 . Using Compression Extensions PN PS-45909 , press down on the top of the spider assembly, pushing the spider onto the shaft.

Press down on spider

A

15. Install the cam (helix) assembly over the shaft. Line up the

“X” on the cam, “X” on spider, and “X” on the stationary sheave or use the marks previously made before disassembly. NOTE: If the cam assembly (helix) is difficult to install, be sure the sheaves are aligned. To align the sheaves place the clutch assembly on a flat surface with the cam assembly (helix) side down. Press down on the moveable sheave belt face with both hands and the helix will release.

Press Down to Loosen Helix

14. Slowly compress the spider into place. If the spider appears to bind while compressing, stop and make sure the skip tooth on the shaft and the spider are aligned. Once the spider passes the retaining ring notch on the shaft, install the retaining ring (A).

16. Use a T25 torx driver to install the four torx screws and torque to specification.

6

A

= T

T25 Torx:

42-52 in. lbs. (4.75 - 5.88 Nm)

6.25

CLUTCHING

Exploded View

T25

Screws

Cam

(Helix)

Retaining

Ring

Thrust

Washer

E-Ring

Roller

Spider

Dampener

Compression

Spring

Outer

Spider

Thrust

Washer

Moveable

Sheave

Roller

Pin

Spider

Insert

Clutch

Shaft

Slotted

Spring Pin

Stationary

Sheave

Ball

Bearing

Retaining

Ring

6.26

CLUTCHING

TROUBLESHOOTING

Situation Probable Cause Remedy

-Wrong or broken drive clutch spring.

-Replace with recommended spring.

Engine RPM below specified operating range, although engine is properly tuned.

-Drive clutch shift weight too heavy.

-Install correct shift weight kit to match engine application.

-Driven clutch spring broken or installed in wrong helix location.

-Replace spring; refer to proper installation location.

-Drive clutch binding.

A. Disassemble drive clutch; inspect shift weights for wear and free operation.

B. Clean and polish stationary shaft hub; reassemble clutch without spring to determine problem area.

Erratic engine operating RPM during acceleration or load variations.

-Belt worn unevenly - thin / burnt spots.

-Driven clutch malfunction.

Replace belt.

A. Replace ramp buttons.

B. Inspect movable sheave for excessive bushing clearance.

-Sheave face grooved.

-Replace the clutch.

-Incorrect drive clutch spring (too high spring rate).

-Install correct recommended spring.

Engine RPM above specified operating range.

-Drive clutch shift weights incorrect for application

(too light).

-Install correct recommended shift weights.

-Drive clutch binding.

-Disassemble and clean clutch, inspecting shift weights and rollers. Reassemble without the spring and move sheaves through entire range to further determine probable cause.

-Driven clutch binding.

-Disassemble, clean, and inspect driven clutch, noting worn sheave bushing and ramp buttons and helix spring location.

6

-Converter sheaves greasy; belt slipage.

-Drive belt worn too narrow.

-Clean sheaves with denatured alcohol or brake cleaner, install new belt.

-Replace belt.

Harsh drive clutch engagement.

-Excessive belt / sheave clearance with new belt.

-Perform belt / sheave clearance adjustment with shim washers beneath spider.

-Replace with correct belt.

Drive belt turns over -Wrong belt for application.

-Abuse (continued throttle application when vehicle is stationary, excess load)

-Caution operator to operate machine within guidelines.

Belt burnt, thin spots -Dragging brake

-Inspect brake system.

-Fast, effective use of throttle for efficient engagement.

-Slow, easy clutch engagement

6.27

CLUTCHING

Troubleshooting, Continued.....

Situation Probable Cause

-Plugged air intake or outlet.

Remedy

-Belt slippage due to water, oil, grease, etc., rubbing on cover.

-Inspect system. Clean , repair or replace as necessary.

Seal PVT system ducts.

PVT cover overheating (melting)

-Clutches or weight being applied to cover while in operation.

-Remove weight. Inform operator.

-High vs. low range.

-Clear obstruction

-Instruct operator on guidelines for operation in proper driving range for different terrain as outlined in Owner’s

Safety and Maintenance Manual.

-Find leak and repair as necessary.

Water ingestion

-Cover seals or ducts leaking

-Operator error

Belt slippage

-Belt worn out

-Water ingestion

-Instruct operator on guidelines for operation in wet terrain as outlined in Owner’s Safety and Maintenance

Manual.

-Replace belt.

-Inspect and seal PVT system.

PVT noise

Engagement erratic or stabby

-Belt contaminated with oil or grease

-Belt worn or separated, thin spots, loose belt

-Inspect and clean.

-Replace belt.

-Broken or worn clutch components, cover hitting clutches

-Inspect and repair as necessary.

-Thin spots on belt, worn belt -Replace belt. Refer to belt burnt troubleshooting and instruct operator.

-Drive clutch bushings stick -Inspect and repair clutches.

6.28

FINAL DRIVE

CHAPTER 7

FINAL DRIVE

SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2


WHEEL, HUB, AND SPINDLE TORQUE TABLE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2

FRONT BEARING CARRIER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2

BEARING CARRIER INSPECTION / REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.2

BEARING REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.3

BEARING CARRIER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.4

FRONT DRIVE SHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.6

DRIVE SHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.6

DRIVE SHAFT / CV JOINT HANDLING TIPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.7

CV JOINT / BOOT REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.7

DRIVE SHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.8

PROPSHAFT SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.10

REMOVAL / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.10

PROPSHAFT U-JOINT SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.10

DISASSEMBLY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.10

ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.11

FRONT GEARCASE / CENTRALIZED HILLIARD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.12

CENTRALIZED HILLIARD EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.12

ALL WHEEL DRIVE OPERATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.13

AWD DIAGNOSIS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.14

GEARCASE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.15

GEARCASE DISASSEMBLY / INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.15

GEARCASE ASSEMBLY / INSPECTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.17

BACKLASH THRUST PLATE ADJUSTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.19

GEARCASE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.20

REAR BEARING CARRIER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.21

BEARING CARRIER INSPECTION / REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.21

BEARING REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.22

BEARING CARRIER BUSHING REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.22

BEARING CARRIER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.23

REAR DRIVE SHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.24

REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.24

CV JOINT / BOOT REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.25

INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.27

REAR GEARCASE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.29

GEARCASE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.29

GEARCASE DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.30

GEARCASE ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.32

GEARCASE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.33

GEARCASE EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.34

WHEEL HUBS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.35

FRONT HUB EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.35

REAR HUB EXPLODED VIEW. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.35

7

7.1

FINAL DRIVE

SPECIAL TOOLS

PART NUMBER

2872608

8700226


Roller Pin Removal Tool

CV Boot Clamp Pliers

2.

Check bearings for side play by grasping the top and bottom of the tire firmly and checking for movement. The tire should rotate smoothly without binding or rough spots.


Wheel, Hub, and Spindle Torque Table

ITEM NUT TYPE SPECIFICATION

Aluminum Wheels

(Cast)

Steel Wheels

(Black / Camo)

Lug Nut (1) 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm)

Flange Nut (2) 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

Front Hub

Castle Nut

Rear Hub

Castle Nut

-

-

80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

3.

Remove the (4) wheel nuts and remove the front wheel.

4.

Remove the cotter pin and loosen the front wheel hub castle nut. Remove the nut, and (2) cone washers from the front wheel hub assembly.

Castle Nut

Cone

Washers

#2

#1

Aluminum Wheel

(LE Models)

90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm)

Steel Wheel

(Standard Models)

27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

Cotter Pin

FRONT BEARING CARRIER

Bearing Carrier Inspection / Removal

1.

Elevate front of vehicle and safely support machine under the frame area.

CAUTION


Be sure machine is secure before beginning this service procedure. Wear eye protection when removing bearings and seals.

5.

Remove the steering tie rod end fastener from the front bearing carrier.

Steering

Tie Rod End

7.2

FINAL DRIVE

6.

Remove the two brake caliper mounting bolts.

CAUTION: Do not hang the caliper by the brake line. Use wire to hang caliper to prevent damage to the brake line.

Remove

NOTE: Due to extremely close tolerances and minimal wear, the bearings must be inspected visually, and by feel. While rotating bearings by hand, inspect for rough spots, discoloration, or corrosion. The bearings should turn smoothly and quietly, with no detectable up and down movement and minimal movement sideways between inner and outer race.

12. Replace bearing if moisture, dirt, corrosion, or roughness is evident.

7.

Remove the front wheel hub assembly.

8.

Remove the upper and lower ball joint pinch bolts.

Bearing Replacement

Bearing Removal

1.

Remove outer snap ring.

Snap Ring

Pinch

Bolts

9.

Using a soft faced hammer, lightly tap on the bearing carrier while removing the upper and lower ball joint ends.

10. Remove the bearing carrier from the front drive shaft.

2.

From the back side of the bearing carrier, tap on the outer bearing race with a drift punch in the reliefs as shown.

7

11. Rotate bearing by hand and check for smooth rotation.

Visually inspect bearing for moisture, dirt, or corrosion.

3.

Drive bearing out evenly by tapping on outer race only.

Once bearing is at bottom of casting, support casting on outer edges so bearing can be removed.

4.

Inspect the bearing carrier housing for scratches, wear or damage. Replace front bearing carrier if damaged.

7.3

FINAL DRIVE

Bearing Installation

5.

Thoroughly clean the front bearing carrier housing and the outer race on the new bearing. Be sure that all oil residue has been removed from each surface.

6.

Support the bottom of the bearing carrier housing.

CAUTION

Use an arbor and press only on the outer race, otherwise bearing damage may occur.

7.

Apply Loctite ® RC ™ 680 to the outer circumference of the new bearing race and carefully press the new bearing into the bearing carrier housing.

3.

Install pinch bolts and torque to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) .

17 ft. lbs.

23 (Nm)

Apply

Loctite® RC™ 680

Snap Ring

= T

Pinch Bolt Torque:

17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)

4.

Apply grease to drive shaft axle splines.

5.

Install front wheel hub assembly, cone washers, and hand tighten the castle nut. Install washers with domed side out.

Cone Washers

Bearing

NOTE: Use care to not allow any of the Loctite® compound to get in the bearing.

8.

Wipe the housing clean of any excess compound and install the snap ring.

Bearing Carrier Installation

1.

Install drive shaft axle through the backside of the bearing carrier.

2.

Install the upper and lower ball joint ends into the front bearing carrier.

Wheel

Hub

Out

6.

Install brake caliper mounting bolts and torque to 30 ft. lbs.

(40 Nm) .

30 ft. lbs.

(40 Nm)

7.4

FINAL DRIVE

= T

Front Caliper Mounting Bolt Torque:

30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)

Torque wheel hub nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and install a NEW cotter pin. Tighten nut slightly if necessary to align cotter pin holes.

80 ft. lbs.

(108 Nm)

CAUTION

New bolts have a pre-applied locking agent which is destroyed upon removal. Always use new brake caliper mounting bolts upon assembly.

7.

Install the steering tie rod end onto the front bearing carrier and torque fastener to 42.5 ft. lbs. (58 Nm) .

42.5 ft. lbs.

58 (Nm)

NEW Cotter Pin

= T

Wheel Hub Castle Nut Torque:

80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

8.

Install wheel and (4) wheel nuts. Torque wheel nuts to specification.

= T

Tie Rod End Fastener Torque:

42.5 ft. lbs. (58 Nm)

= T

Wheel Nut Torque:

Steel Wheels: 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

Aluminum Wheels: 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm)

9.

Rotate wheel and check for smooth operation. Bend both ends of cotter pin around end of spindle in different directions.

7

7.5

FINAL DRIVE

FRONT DRIVE SHAFT

Drive Shaft Removal

1.

Elevate front of vehicle and safely support machine under the frame area.

6.

Remove the upper ball joint pinch bolt.

Pinch

Bolt

CAUTION



2.

Remove the (4) wheel nuts and remove the front wheel.

3.

Remove the cotter pin and loosen the front wheel hub castle nut. Remove the nut, and (2) cone washers from the front wheel hub assembly.

Castle Nut

7.

Using a soft faced hammer, lightly tap on the bearing carrier while removing the upper ball joint end.

8.

Remove the drive shaft from the front bearing carrier.

Cone

Washers

Cotter Pin

4.

Remove the two brake caliper mounting bolts.


Remove

9.

With a short, sharp jerk, remove drive shaft from the front gearcase.

5.

Remove the front wheel hub assembly.

7.6

FINAL DRIVE

Drive Shaft / CV Joint Handling Tips

Care should be exercised during drive shaft removal or when servicing CV joints. Drive shaft components are precision parts.

Cleanliness and following these instructions is very important to ensure proper shaft function and a normal service life.

• The complete drive shaft and joint should be handled by getting hold of the interconnecting shaft to avoid disassembly or potential damage to the drive shaft joints.

• Over-angling of joints beyond their capacity could result in boot or joint damage.

• Make sure surface-ground areas and splines of shaft are protected during handling to avoid damage.

• Do not allow boots to come into contact with sharp edges or hot engine and exhaust components.

• The drive shaft is not to be used as a lever arm to position other suspension components.

• Never use a hammer or sharp tools to remove or to install boot clamps.

• Be sure joints are thoroughly clean and that the proper amount and type of grease is used to refill when joint boots are replaced and when joints are cleaned. Refer to text for grease capacity of CV joints and CV joint boots.

4.

It may be necessary to tap the CV joint assembly outward with a soft faced hammer.

Retaining Ring

Pull shaft to remove from CV joint

5.

Remove the small clamp and boot from the drive shaft.

NOTE: If the vehicle has been operated with a damaged boot, the CV joint grease may be contaminated. Inspect the grease carefully for contamination and clean the joint thoroughly if necessary.

6.

Refer to information below or Figure 7-8 for grease capacity requirements.

CV Joint / Boot Replacement

1.

Remove clamps from rubber boot using the proper boot clamp pliers.

CV Boot Clamp Pliers:

Earless Type - 8700226

Boot Replacement Grease Requirement:

Grease Service Kits

PN 1350059 - 20g

PN 1350046 - 30g

PN 1350047 - 50g

Inner Plunging Joint:

Boot replacement only - 45g

Boot replacement w/joint cleaning - 90g

Outer CV Joint:



2.

Remove the large end of the boot from the CV joint and slide the boot back.

3.

Separate the outer wheel end of the CV joint assembly from the axle shaft by pulling the shaft sharply outward, away from the CV joint.

7.

Before installing the new boot, remove all grease from the boot area and shaft.

NOTE: It is very important to use the correct type and quantity of grease by using the grease contained in the boot kit. DO NOT use a substitute grease and DO NOT overfill or under fill the CV joint.

8.

Slide the new clamp and boot (small end first) over the splined shaft, then slide (tap) the CV joint into the splines of the axle. Install small boot clamp.

7.7

7

FINAL DRIVE

9.

Add grease through large end of boot.

10. Position large end of boot on CV joint, purge excess air by partially compressing axle into CV bell. Lift one edge of boot to let out excess air. Secure the CV boot with clamp.

Drive Shaft Installation

1.

Install new spring ring on drive shaft. Apply an anti-seize compound to splines.

NEW

Spring Ring

FRONT DRIVE SHAFT

Joint Capacity**

45 Grams

Plunging

Joint

Apply

Anti-Seize

2.

Align splines of drive shaft with front gearcase and reinstall the drive shaft. Use a rubber mallet to tap on the outboard end of the drive shaft if necessary

Boot Capacity

45 Grams

Boot Capacity

45 Grams

3.

Install drive shaft into the front bearing carrier.

Joint Capacity*

45 Grams

CV Joint

*CV joint capacity: 45g if boot is replaced only.

Another 45g (90g total) if joint is cleaned.

**Plunging joint capacity: 45g if boot is replaced only. Another 45g (90g total) if joint is cleaned.

Figure 7-8

11. Repeat this procedure to service the inner CV plunging joint.

7.8

4.

Install the upper ball joint end into the front bearing carrier.

FINAL DRIVE

5.

Install the upper pinch bolt and torque to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) .

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

= T


80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)


(40 Nm) .

30 ft. lbs.

(40 Nm)

= T

Pinch Bolt Torque:

17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm)

6.


7.

Install front wheel hub assembly, cone washers, and hand tighten the castle nut. Install washers with domed side out.

Cone Washers

Wheel

Hub

Out

Torque wheel hub nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and install a NEW cotter pin. Tighten nut slightly if necessary to align cotter pin holes.

= T

Front Caliper Mounting Bolt Torque:

30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)

CAUTION


8.


7

80 ft. lbs.

(108 Nm)

= T




9.


NEW Cotter Pin

7.9

FINAL DRIVE

PROPSHAFT SERVICE

Removal / Installation

1.

Locate the propshaft roll pin and use the Roll Pin Removal

Tool (PN 2872608), to remove the roll pin.

NOTE: Front wheel can be removed to gain better access to the propshaft roll pin.

6.

Remove the fasteners retaining the plastic skid plate and remove the skid plate from the vehicle.

Cupped

Washers

Screws

7.

Remove the propshaft from the vehicle.

8.

Reverse removal steps to reinstall propshaft. Use a NEW

Roll Pin (Spring Pin) upon reassembly.

Roll Pin Removal Tool (PN 2872608)

2.

Remove the gear selector cap and remove the retaining screw.

3.

Remove the push rivets and Torx screws retaining center console to access the propshaft.

Cap

Push Rivets

Screw

PROPSHAFT U-JOINT SERVICE

Disassembly

1.

Remove internal or external snap ring from bearing caps.

CAUTION

Always wear eye protection.

Torx Screws

4.

Slide prop shaft back far enough to remove it from the front gearcase input shaft.

5.

Pull sharply forward to remove it from transmission shaft.

NOTE: You may have to loosen the front gearcase mounting bolts to allow for propshaft removal.

NOTE: If yoke or bearing is removed, cross bearing must be replaced. Note orientation of grease fitting and mark inner and outer yoke for correct repositioning during installation.

7.10

FINAL DRIVE

2.

Support inner yoke as shown and drive outer yoke down

(bearing cap out) with a soft face hammer.

2.

Tighten vise to force bearing caps in.

3.

Support U-joint in vise as shown and drive inner yoke down to remove remaining bearing caps.

3.

Using a suitable arbor, fully seat the bearing cap in one side.

Continually check for free movement of bearing cross as bearing caps are assembled.

4.

Force U-joint cross to one side and lift out of inner yoke.

4.

Install snap ring to contain bearing cap just installed.

Repeat procedure for other side.

5.

Install outer yoke, aligning marks made at disassembly and repeat Steps 1-3 to install bearing caps on outer yoke.

6.

Seat all bearing caps against snap rings by supporting cross shaft and tapping on each corner as shown.

7

Assembly

1.

Install new bearing caps in yoke by hand. Carefully install

U-joint cross with grease fitting properly positioned inward toward center of shaft. Take care not to dislodge needle bearings upon installation of cross joint.

7.

When installation is complete, yokes must pivot freely in all directions without binding. If the joint is stiff or binding, tap the yoke lightly to center the joint until it pivots freely.

7.11

FINAL DRIVE

FRONT GEARCASE / CENTRALIZED HILLIARD

Centralized Hilliard Exploded View

9

5

7

5

2

8

6

4

3

1

7-11 ft. lbs.

(10-15 Nm)

10

R EF # D ESCRIPTION

3

4

1

2

5

7.12

Cover Screws

Cover Plate Assembly

Thrust Plate

Armature Plate

Output Hub Assembly

1

1

6

1

2

Q TY R EF # D ESCRIPTION

8

9

6 Roll Cage Assembly with H-Springs

7 Rollers

Clutch Housing / Ring Gear

Gearcase Housing

10 Wire Harness Retainer

1

1

1

20

1

Q TY

FINAL DRIVE

All Wheel Drive Operation

Front Gearcase Engagement: The AWD switch may be turned on or off while the vehicle is moving. Initially, the vehicle’s electronic system will not enable the AWD until the engine RPM is below 3100. Once enabled, AWD will remain engaged until the rear wheels regain traction and the propshaft speed matches the front axle speed .

Engage the AWD switch before getting into conditions where the front wheel drive may be needed. If the rear wheels are spinning, release the throttle before switching to AWD.

4x4 Engagement: When the AWD switch is turned on, a 12

Vdc current charges the hub coil and creates a magnetic field.

This magnetic field attracts an armature plate keyed to a roller cage that contains 20 rollers. The difference in rpm between the input shaft (propshaft) and the front axles, forces the rollers into the external cam of the Hilliard clutch assembly. The rollers are forced inward to engage themselves to the output hubs that link directly to both front axles, resulting in True All Wheel Drive.

CAUTION

Switching to AWD while the rear wheels are spinning may cause severe drive shaft and gearcase damage. Always switch to AWD while the rear wheels have traction or are at rest.

Normal Operation: With the AWD switch off the vehicle drives only the rear wheels (2 wheel drive). When the AWD switch is activated it electronically activates the Hilliard Clutch, and enables the front wheels to provide driving torque when needed.

CAUTION

If the rear wheels are spinning, release the throttle before turning the AWD switch on.

If AWD is engaged while the wheels are spinning, severe drive shaft and clutch damage could result.

Roller cage and roller’s rotate inward and grip the output hubs for AWD engagement.

Output Hubs

Rollers

Roller Cage

& H-springs

Mechanical Disengagement: As the front and rear wheels gain traction, rotating very close to the same speed, the front wheels

“overdrive” the output hubs and the rollers are forced outward, disengaging the AWD. The vehicle is now back to rear wheel drive until the rear wheels lose traction again.

7

7.13

FINAL DRIVE

AWD Diagnosis

Symptom: AWD Will Not Engage

1.

Check the gearcase coil resistance. To test the coil resistance, measure between the Grey and Brown/White wires. The measurement should be within specification.

5.

Check to make sure the coil is seated in the U-shaped insert that is pressed into the gearcase cover. The top of the coil should be seated below the U-shaped insert. The U-shaped insert controls the pole gap. If the top of the coil is above the surface of the U-shaped insert it raises the armature plate, thereby increasing pole gap. If the pole gap increases the coil will not be strong enough to engage the AWD system. If this is found, replace the cover plate assembly.

Gearcase Cover Plate Asm.

Coil

Front Gearcase Coil Resistance:

21.6 - 26.4 Ohms

U-shaped insert

Side cutaway view of

Centralized Hilliard cover

2.

Turn the ignition and AWD switches on and place gear selector in High or Low gear. Check for minimum battery voltage at the Gray and Brown/White chassis wires that power the coil. A minimum of 11 Vdc should be present.

3.

If electrical tests are within specification, remove gearcase

(see “Gearcase Removal”) and inspect components.

4.

Inspect the armature plate for a consistent wear pattern.

There should be two distinct wear bands (one band inside the other). If only one band of wear is present (or if there is wear between the two bands), inspect the coil area as indicated in Step 5. A wear band with an interrupted wear mark may indicate a warped plate, which may cause intermittent operation. See the following illustrations:

Check for wear bands

6.

Inspect the rollers for nicks and scratches. The rollers must slide up, down, in and out freely within the roll cage sliding surfaces and H-springs.

Roll Cage Assembly

Rollers

7.

Inspect the roll cage assembly for cracks or excessive wear.

If damaged, replace the roll cage assembly.

Armature Plate

7.14

FINAL DRIVE

Gearcase Removal

1.

Stop engine and place gear selector in Park.

2.

Refer to “FRONT DRIVE SHAFT - Drive Shaft Removal” and remove both front drive shafts from the front gearcase.

3.

Remove the propshaft (see “PROPSHAFT SERVICE”).

4.

Disconnect the wire harness above the front gearcase and remove the harness from the retaining dart.

7.

Remove the gearcase from the front LH wheel well area and slide it between the upper and lower A-arm.

AWD Harness

Gearcase Disassembly / Inspection

1.

Drain and properly dispose of gearcase fluid. Remove any metal particles from the drain plug magnet.

2.

Remove the (6) cover screws and remove the cover plate.

5.

Remove the vent line from the front gearcase.

6.

Remove the (4) bolts securing the front gearcase to frame.

Remove

Vent Line

Disconnect

Harness

7

Remove 4 Bolts

3.

Check the gearcase coil resistance (see “AWD Diagnosis”).

The resistance value should meet the specification.

4.

Remove and inspect the armature plate and thrust plate.

Refer to “AWD Diagnosis” for detailed inspection process.

Armature

Plate

Thrust

Plate

7.15

FINAL DRIVE

NOTE: The backlash for the centralized hilliard is set at the factory. No adjustment is required unless the cover plate assembly is replaced, or the backlash adjustment screw is removed. See the "Backlash

Adjustment” procedure later in this chapter for details on backlash setting.

5.

Remove the LH output hub assembly from the clutch housing.

8.

Remove the (4) screws retaining the pinion shaft assembly and remove the assembly from the gearcase housing.

Inspect and clean the gearcase housing and replace the seal.

Replace

Seal

6.

Remove the clutch housing from the gearcase housing.

9.

Clean and inspect all parts. Check for excessive wear or damage.

10. Inspect the coil located in the cover plate assembly. Refer to “AWD Diagnosis” for detailed inspection process.

Replace the cover plate seal and O-ring.

Inspect

Coil

7.

Remove the RH output hub assembly from the gearcase housing.

Replace

O-Ring & Seal

11. Disassemble the pinion shaft assembly. Inspect the bearings and replace if needed. Replace the pinion cover seal and O-ring.

Inspect

Bearings

Replace

O-Ring & Seal

7.16

FINAL DRIVE

12. Remove the roll cage assembly and rollers from the clutch housing. Use a shop towel to cover the housing in order to retain all the rollers.

NOTE: Rollers are spring loaded. Take care not to allow them to fall out or lose them upon removal of the roll cage.

13. Thoroughly clean all parts and inspect the rollers (A) for nicks and scratches. The rollers must slide up and down and in and out freely within the roll cage sliding surfaces and

H-springs.

C

16. Inspect both output hub assemblies. Inspect the bearings and replace if needed.

Thrust

Bearing

Bearing

Spacer

Roller

Surface

B

A

14. Inspect the roll cage assembly (B) sliding surfaces and Hsprings. The sliding surfaces must be clean and free of nicks, burrs or scratches. If damaged, replace the roll cage assembly.

H-Spring B

Gearcase Assembly / Inspection

1.

As mentioned during gearcase disassembly section, replace all O-rings, seals, and worn components.

2.

Press the pinion shaft seal into the pinion cover, until the seal is flush with the sealing surface.

3.

If bearing replacement was required, press new bearings on to the pinion shaft assembly.

4.

Install pinion shaft, bearings, and pinion cover with new

O-ring and torque screws to 7-11 ft. lbs. (10-15 Nm) .

7

Torque

Screws

15. Inspect clutch housing ring gear (C) for a consistent wear pattern. Inspect the ring gear for chipped, broken, or missing teeth.

Pinion Cover Screw Torque:

7-11 ft. lbs. (10-15 Nm)

7.17

FINAL DRIVE

5.

Carefully install the rollers into the roll cage assembly while installing the assembly into the clutch housing.

9.

Install the RH output hub into the clutch housing assembly.

RH Hub

Clutch

Housing properly, assemble the gearcase components starting with the cover plate and build upward.

6.

Install a new O-ring on the cover plate assembly.

NOTE: Be sure the square O-ring is placed flat on the cover surface. If the O-ring is twisted fluid leakage may occur.

7.

Carefully install the LH output hub assembly with the thrust bearing into the cover plate. Take care not to damage the new cover plate seal while installing the output hub.

10. While holding the hub in the clutch housing, flip the clutch housing over and install the armature plate. Engage the tabs into the slots in the roll cage assembly .

NOTE: Be sure armature plate tabs are placed into the slots on roll cage (see reference photo).

Thrust

Plate LH Hub

11. While holding the hub in the clutch housing and the armature plate in the roll cage, flip the clutch housing assembly over and set it on the cover plate.

NOTE: Be sure to hold armature plate in place until the housing is completely resting on the cover plate.

8.

Place the thrust plate onto the adjuster button located in the cover plate assembly using a light film of grease to hold it in place.

Armature

Plate

7.18

FINAL DRIVE

12. Line up the gearcase housing with the cover plate assembly.

Set the gearcase housing on top of the assembled cover plate. Take care not to damage the new seal when installing the gearcase housing.

NOTE: Rotate the input shaft while setting the gearcase housing in place.

Backlash Thrust Plate Adjustment

NOTE: Ring gear backlash is set from the factory.

No adjustment is required unless the cover plate, ring gear/clutch housing, or pinion gear assembly is replaced. Adjustment is also required if the thrust plate adjustment screw is removed.

1.

Lay the gearcase on its side with the cover plate facing up.

NOTE: The backlash adjustment screw is held in place with Loctite. Use a heat gun to loosen the

Loctite on the screw.

13. While holding the gearcase together, flip it over and install the cover plate screws. Torque screws to 7-11 ft. lbs.

(10-15 Nm) .

Torque

Screws

Adjustment

Screw

2.

Using a hex wrench, turn the backlash screw out 3-4 turns.

Re-apply red Loctite onto the bottom of the screw threads.

7

Cover Plate Screw Torque:

7-11 ft. lbs. (10-15 Nm)

Apply

Loctite

3.

Tighten the adjustment screw until it is lightly seated or until it bottoms out.

7.19

FINAL DRIVE

4.

Set the gearcase upright.

5.

Back the adjustment screw out while rotating the pinion shaft. The pinion shaft should rotate freely during four complete rotations. The four pinion shaft rotations ensures that the ring gear completes one full rotation.

4.

Install the vent line.

Connect

Harness

Install

Vent Line

30 ft. lbs.

(41 Nm)

6.

If a tight spot is felt during rotation, loosen the backlash adjustment screw further and repeat pinion shaft rotation.

Repeat this procedure until the pinion shaft rotates smoothly four complete times (1 revolution of ring gear).

= T

Front Gearcase Mounting Bolt Torque:

30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)

5.

Connect the AWD wire harness.

AWD Harness

Gearcase Installation

1.

Install the gearcase back into the vehicle through the LH wheel well area, between the upper and lower A-arms.

2.

Install the propshaft assembly onto the front gearcase input shaft. Use a NEW spring pin in the front propshaft.

3.

Install the (4) bolts that secure the front gearcase to the frame and torque to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm) .

6.

Refer to “FRONT DRIVE SHAFT - Drive Shaft

Installation” and install both front drive shafts into the front gearcase.

7.

Add the proper lubricant to the front gearcase. Refer to

Chapter 2 for fluid fill and change information.

Premium Demand Drive Fluid LT

(PN 2876251)

Front Housing Capacity

6.75 fl. oz. (200 ml)

7.20

FINAL DRIVE

REAR BEARING CARRIER

Bearing Carrier Inspection / Removal

1.

Elevate rear of vehicle and safely support machine under the frame area.

6.

Remove the rear wheel hub assembly.

CAUTION



2.

Check bearings for side play by grasping the top and bottom of the tire firmly and checking for movement. The tire should rotate smoothly without binding or rough spots.

3.

Remove the (4) wheel nuts and remove the rear wheel.

4.

Remove the cotter pin and loosen the rear wheel hub castle nut. Remove the nut, and (2) cone washers from the rear wheel hub assembly.

7.

Remove the bolts that attach the rear bearing carrier to the upper and lower A-arms.

Castle Nut

Cone

Washers

Cotter Pin

5.

Remove the two brake caliper attaching bolts.


8.

Remove the bearing carrier from the rear drive shaft.

7

Remove

9.

Rotate bearing by hand and check for smooth rotation.

Visually inspect bearing for moisture, dirt, or corrosion.

7.21

FINAL DRIVE

NOTE: Due to extremely close tolerances and minimal wear, the bearings must be inspected visually, and by feel. While rotating bearings by hand, inspect for rough spots, discoloration, or corrosion. The bearings should turn smoothly and quietly, with no detectable up and down movement and minimal movement sideways between inner and outer race.

10. Replace bearing if moisture, dirt, corrosion, or roughness is evident.

Bearing Installation

5.

Thoroughly clean the rear bearing carrier housing and the outer race on the new bearing. Be sure that all oil residue has been removed from each surface.

6.

Support the bottom of the bearing carrier housing.

Bearing Replacement

Bearing Removal

1.

Remove outer snap ring.

CAUTION

Use an arbor and press only on the outer race, otherwise bearing damage may occur.

7.

Apply Loctite ® RC ™ 680 to the outer circumference of the new bearing race and carefully press the new bearing into the bearing carrier housing.

Apply

Loctite® RC™ 680

Snap Ring

Snap Ring

Bearing

2.

From the back side of the bearing carrier, tap on the outer bearing race with a drift punch in the reliefs as shown.

NOTE: Use care to not allow any of the Loctite ® compound to get in the bearing.

8.

Wipe the housing clean of any excess compound and install the snap ring.

Bearing Carrier Bushing Replacement

Check bearing carrier bushings and pivot tubes for excessive wear or damage. If replacement is required, slide pivot tubes out and remove bushings with a drift punch. Install new bushings by pressing them into the bearing carrier.

Pivot Tube

Control Arm

Bushing

Pivot

Bushing

3.

Drive bearing out evenly by tapping on outer race only.

Once bearing is at bottom of casting, support casting on outer edges so bearing can be removed.

4.

Inspect the bearing carrier housing for scratches, wear or damage. Replace rear bearing carrier if damaged.

7.22

Pivot Tube Control Arm

Bushing

FINAL DRIVE

Bearing Carrier Installation

1.

Install drive shaft axle through the backside of the bearing carrier. Be sure bushings and pivot tubes are installed.

5.


(24 Nm) .

18 ft. lbs.

24 (Nm)

2.

Install the fasteners that attach the rear bearing carrier to the upper and lower A-arms. Torque bolts to 37 ft. lbs.

(50 Nm) .

37 ft. lbs.

50 (Nm)

= T

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolt Torque:

18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)

CAUTION


6.

Torque wheel hub nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and install a

NEW cotter pin. Tighten nut slightly if necessary to align cotter pin holes.

7

= T

Rear Bearing Carrier Bolt Torque:

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

3.


4.

Install rear wheel hub assembly, cone washers, and hand tighten the castle nut. Install washers with domed side out.

Cone Washers

Wheel

Hub

Out

80 ft. lbs.

(108 Nm)

NEW Cotter Pin

= T


80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

7.23

FINAL DRIVE

7.


4.

Remove the two brake caliper attaching bolts.


= T




8.


Remove

REAR DRIVE SHAFT

Removal

1.

Elevate rear of vehicle and safely support machine under the frame area.

5.

Remove the rear wheel hub assembly.

CAUTION



2.

Remove the (4) wheel nuts and remove the rear wheel.

3.

Remove the cotter pin and loosen the rear wheel hub castle nut. Remove the nut, and (2) cone washers from the rear wheel hub assembly.

6.

Remove the bolt that attaches the rear bearing carrier to the upper A-arm.

Castle Nut

Cone

Washers

Cotter Pin

7.24

FINAL DRIVE

7.

Slide the rear drive shaft out of the bearing carrier by pulling the bearing carrier assembly outward and tipping it down to remove the shaft.

CV Joint / Boot Replacement

1.

Remove clamps from rubber boot(s) using the CV Boot

Clamp Pliers (PN 8700226) (A).

A

8.

Grasp the rear drive shaft and pull sharply outward on the shaft to disengage it from the rear gearcase.

damaging the seal.

CV Boot Clamp Pliers:

Earless Type - 8700226

2.

Remove the large end of the boot from the CV joint and slide the boot back.

Snap ring located in recessed area

Snap ring

7

9.

Inspect the axle splines and CV boots for any damage.

NOTE: Photo above is shown without shaft for clarity. Wipe grease away from recess in CV joint inner hub to locate snap ring

3.

Open the snap ring using a snap ring pliers or small needle nose pliers. Tap CV housing off shaft with a soft faced hammer while holding snap ring open.

Spread ends of snap ring to remove joint from shaft

7.25

FINAL DRIVE

NOTE: When replacing a damaged boot, check the grease for contamination by rubbing it between two fingers. A gritty feeling indicates contamination. If the grease is not contaminated, the boot can be replaced without cleaning the CV joint. Use the recommended amount of grease for boot replacement only.

4.

Remove boot from the shaft.

5.

Thoroughly clean and dry the CV joint and inspect ball tracks and cages for wear, cracks or other damage.

NOTE: Shiny areas in ball tracks and on the cage spheres are normal. Do not replace CV joints because parts have polished surfaces. Replace CV joint only if components are cracked, broken, worn or otherwise unserviceable.

6.

Place a new snap ring in the groove of the CV joint inner hub with tabs facing the shaft as shown.

Tabs face the shaft

8.

Refit CV joint on the shaft by tapping with a plastic hammer on the joint housing. Take care not to damage threads on the outboard CV joint. The joint is fully assembled when the snap ring is located in the groove on the shaft.

Tap joint onto shaft

NOTE: It is very important to use the correct type and quantity of grease by using the grease contained in the boot kit. DO NOT use a substitute grease and DO NOT overfill or under fill the CV joint.

9.

Refer to information below or Figure 7-28 for grease capacity requirements.

Boot Replacement Grease Requirement:

Grease Service Kits

PN 1350059 - 20g

PN 1350046 - 30g

PN 1350047 - 50g

Inner Plunging Joint:



Outer CV Joint:



7.

Before you assemble the CV joint, slide the new boot (small end first) and clamp over the splined shaft.

10. Remove excess grease from the CV joint's external surfaces and position the boot over the housing, making sure the boot is seated in the groove. Position clamp over the large boot end and make sure clamp tabs are located in slots.

NOTE: Before tightening boot clamp on inboard joint make sure any air pressure which may have built up in joint boot has been released. The air should be released after the plunging joint has been centered properly. Tighten boot clamp using boot clamp pliers.

7.26

FINAL DRIVE

11. While pulling out on the CV shaft, fully extend the CV joint and slide a straight O-ring pick or a small slotted screw driver between the small end of the boot and the shaft. This will allow the air pressure to equalize in the CV boot in the position that the joint will spend most of its life. Before you remove your instrument, be sure the small end of the boot is in its correct location on the axle.

Installation

1.

Install new spring ring on drive shaft. Apply anti-seize compound to splines.

NEW

Spring Ring

12. Install the small clamp on the boot.

REAR SHAFT

Spring Ring

Joint Capacity

40 Grams

Plunging

Joint

Boot Capacity

40 Grams

Gear Side

Boot Kit

Boot Capacity

30 Grams

Wheel Side

Boot Kit

Joint Capacity

30 Grams

CV Joint

Figure 7-28

Apply

Anti-Seize

2.

Align splines of drive shaft with rear gearcase and reinstall the drive shaft. Use a rubber mallet to tap on the outboard end of the drive shaft if necessary.

NOTE: Take care when installing the drive shaft to prevent damaging the seal.

3.

Slide the rear drive shaft into the rear bearing carrier.

7

7.27

FINAL DRIVE

4.

Lift bearing carrier into place and install the bolt attaching the bearing carrier to the upper A-arm. Torque fastener to

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm) .

= T

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolt Torque:

18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)

37 ft. lbs.

50 (Nm)

CAUTION


8.

Torque wheel hub nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and install a

NEW cotter pin. Tighten nut slightly if necessary to align cotter pin holes.

= T

Rear Bearing Carrier Bolt Torque:

37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm)

5.


6.

Install rear wheel hub assembly, cone washers, and hand tighten the castle nut. Install washers with domed side out.

Cone Washers

80 ft. lbs.

(108 Nm)

NEW Cotter Pin

Wheel

Hub

Out

7.


(24 Nm) .

= T


80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm)

9.


18 ft. lbs.

24 (Nm)

= T




7.28

FINAL DRIVE

REAR GEARCASE

Gearcase Removal

1.

Drain the fluid from the rear gearcase.

2.

Remove the rear drive shafts from each side of the rear gearcase.

See “REAR DRIVE SHAFT” on page 7.24

3.

Remove the exhaust pipe and exhaust silencer to allow for gearcase removal.

Silencer

5.

Remove the fasteners and bracket that secure the rear gearcase to the transmission.

Remove

Elbow

Pipe

Remove

Header

Pipe

6.

Remove the (4) fasteners and remove the rear mount from the rear gearcase.

Remove

4.

Remove the (2) rear gearcase mount bracket fasteners and mount bolt and remove bracket from vehicle.

7.

Pull the rear gearcase towards the rear of the vehicle to disengage it from the transmission.

NOTE: If the splined coupler doesn’t slide off the input shaft on the rear gearcase, use a screwdriver to hold back the coupler while pulling the rear gearcase back further to disengage it.

8.

Remove the vent line and lift the rear gearcase upward and on its side to remove it from the vehicle.

7

NOTE: Some vehicles will require the bolt to be removed from the receiver hitch to gain enough clearance to remove the rear gearcase.

7.29

FINAL DRIVE

Gearcase Disassembly

IMPORTANT: Due to the manufacturing process, the pinion and ring gear assembly are NOT intended to be disassembled and replaced.

Pinion and ring gear shimming information is NOT provided. The components are matched at the factory which requires special OEM tooling in order to properly assemble and shim the gears.

In the event damage to the gears or housing requires replacement, the entire assembly must be replaced.

1.

Drain and properly dispose of used gearcase fluid.

2.

Remove the remaining cover screws from the rear gearcase.

NOTE: Record the thickness of the shim pack located under each bearing. Keep the shims together for reassembly.

4.

Inspect each axle spool bearing and race for signs of wear or damage. Replace races if required using standard bearing puller tools.

3.

Remove the ring gear/axle spool assembly. The bearings are a slip-fit and will slide off the axel spool.

7.30

FINAL DRIVE

5.

Inspect the ring gear teeth for chipped, worn, or broken teeth. If damaged, replace the ring gear and pinion gear as a set.

Inspect

7.

Remove the input shaft seal using a seal puller or other suitable method.

NOTE: In the event damage to the gears or housing requires replacement, the entire assembly must be replaced.

6.

Remove the seals from each side of the gearcase housing.

Replace the o-ring in the gearcase cover.

8.

Inspect the input shaft by rotating the assembly in the gearcase housing while checking for any looseness or roughness. Inspect the pinion gear teeth for chipped, worn, or broken teeth. If damaged, replace the ring gear and pinion gear as a set.

7

NOTE: In the event damage to the gears, pinion bearings or housing requires replacement, the entire assembly must be replaced.

7.31

FINAL DRIVE

Gearcase Assembly

1.

Install a new input shaft seal using a standard seal installer or other suitable method.

3.

If removed, install each axle spool bearing race using standard bearing installation tools and a shop press.

2.

Install new seals on each side of the gearcase housing using a standard seal installer or other suitable method. Install a new o-ring in the gearcase cover.

WARNING

Wear the appropriate safety equipment while installing bearing races to reduce the risk of injury.

7.32

FINAL DRIVE

4.

Install the shim(s) previously removed onto the appropriate sides of the axle spool. Install the bearings. The bearings are a slip-fit and will slide onto the axle spool.

Gearcase Installation

1.

Install the rear gearcase by reversing the procedure listed under “REAR GEARCASE - Gearcase Removal” at the beginning of this section.

IMPORTANT: When reinstalling the transmission to rear gearcase mount bracket, it is extremely important to torque all (7) fasteners to specification. Refer to the

“Installation” procedure listed on page 4.15.

NOTE: Special tool (PA-48873) will be required to torque the mounting bracket fasteners when the transmission and rear gearcase are installed in the vehicle. Refer to the “Installation” procedure listed on page 4.15.

5.

Install the ring gear/axle spool assembly into the housing.

Special Tool

PA-48873

6.

Install the gearcase cover. Verify the o-ring is in position.

Install the cover screws onto the rear gearcase. Torque to specification.

2.

Add Polaris ATV Angle Drive Fluid to rear gearcase. Refer to maintenance information in Chapter 2 for more details.

Torque drain and fill plugs to specification.

= T

Cover Screw Torque:

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-37 Nm)

=

Rear Gearcase Capacity :

18 fl. oz. (532 ml) or to bottom of fill plug hole threads

See Chapter 2

= T

Drain / Fill Plug Torque:

Drain Plug - 30-45 in.lbs. (3-5 Nm)

Fill Plug - 40 ft.lbs. (54 Nm)

7.33

7

FINAL DRIVE

Gearcase Exploded View

4

6

5

3

1

7

15

2

23-27 ft. lbs.

(31-37 Nm)

23-27 ft. lbs.

(31-37 Nm)

21

16

40 ft. lbs.

(54 Nm)

20

30-45 in. lbs.

(3-5 Nm)

19

8

9

10

7

12

10

9

13

14

6

16

17

23-27 ft. lbs.

(31-37 Nm)

18

70-80 ft. lbs.

(95-108 Nm)

7

7

R EF # D ESCRIPTION

7

8

5

6

3

4

1

2

Screw

Screw

Bracket, Rear Mount, RH

Bracket, Rear Mount, LH

Mount, Rear

Nut, Flanged

Assembly, Rear Housing, RH

Bearing Retainer Ring

9 Assembly, Tapered Roller Bearing

10 Shim

11 Assembly, Gear and Pinion

7.34

1

1

1

4

1

1

2

2

2

2

1

Q TY R EF # D ESCRIPTION

12 Axle, Spool

13 O-Ring

14 Housing, Rear, LH

15 Screw, Flange Head

16 Seal, Oil

17 Screw, Flange Head

18 Screw

19 Dowel

20 Plug, Drain w/O-Ring

21 Plug, Fill w/O-Ring

8

2

2

4

1

1

1

2

1

1

Q TY

FINAL DRIVE

WHEEL HUBS

Front Hub Exploded View

Stud

Cone

Washers

Cotter Pin

Wheel Hub

Castle Nut

80 ft. lbs.

(108 Nm)

Sealed

Ball Bearing

Bolts

Bearing Carrier

Retaining

Ring

Brake Disc

Front Rim

Front Tire

Flanged Nuts

See Page 7.2

for Torque Value

Rear Hub Exploded View

Valve

Stud

Cotter Pin

Wheel Hub

Cone

Washers

Castle Nut

80 ft. lbs.

(108 Nm)

Sealed

Ball Bearing

Bolts

Bearing Carrier

Retaining

Ring

Brake Disc

Front Rim

7

Front Tire

Flanged Nuts

See Page 7.2

for Torque Value

Valve

7.35

FINAL DRIVE

NOTES

7.36

TRANSMISSION

CHAPTER 8

TRANSMISSION

TORQUES / SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2

SHIFT LEVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2

REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2

INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.2

SHIFT CABLE INSPECTION / ADJUSTMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.3

TRANSMISSION SERVICE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.4

TRANSMISSION REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.4

TRANSFER CASE DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.4

TRANSFER CASE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.7

TRANSMISSION SHIFT HOUSING DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.8

TRANSMISSION SHIFT HOUSING REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.13


TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKLIST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.18

TRANSMISSION EXPLODED VIEWS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.19

SHIFT HOUSING / TRANSFER CASE EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.19

8

8.1

TRANSMISSION

TORQUES / SPECIFICATIONS

Maintain and check/change these items in accordance with the maintenance schedule in Chapter 2 or during service repairs.

ITEM

Transmission Fill Plugs

Transmission Drain /

Level Plugs

Transmission Case

Screws

TORQUE VALUE

40-50 ft. lbs.(54-67 Nm)

30-45 in. lbs.(0.2-0.3 Nm)

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-36 Nm)

Shift Lever Screw

Detent Sleeve Screw

15-20 ft. lbs. (20-27 Nm)

40-45 ft. lbs.(54-61 Nm)

Detent Adjustment Screw 23-27 ft. lbs. (31-36 Nm)

Drain Plugs / Check Plug 30-45 in. lbs.(0.2-0.3 Nm)

Speed Sensor Screw 130-155 in. lbs.(0.9-1.09 Nm)

Position Sensor Screw 25-40 in. lbs.(0.17-0.28 Nm)

Park Flange Screws 130-155 in. lbs.(0.9-1.09 Nm)

Transmission Isolator

Mounting Screws

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-36 Nm)

Transmission Lubricant

Capacity

AGL PN 2873602

24 oz. (710 ml)

Transfer Case Lubricant

Capacity

Rear Carrier Lubricant

Capacity

AGL PN 2873602

14 oz. (414 ml)

ADF PN 2871653

18 oz. (532 ml)

SHIFT LEVER

Removal

1.

Pry the shift lever cover using a suitable tool and remove the screw. Pull knob off the shifter.

2.

Refer to Chapter 5 for console cover removal.

3.

Disconnect cable from shifter.

4.

Remove the clip attaching the gear selector to the machine frame.

5.

Lift the gear shift selector out of mounting bracket and away from frame.

Installation

1.

Perform the steps in reverse order to install the gear shift selector. (shifter, cable, console, shift knob)

2.

Tighten the shift cable nut to specification.

= T

Shift Cable Nut Torque:

130-155 in. lbs. (14.7-17.5 Nm)

8.2

Shift Cable Inspection / Adjustment

Shift cable adjustment may be necessary if symptoms include:

• No AWD or gear position display on instrument cluster

• Ratcheting noise on deceleration

• Inability to engage a gear

• Excessive gear clash (noise)

• Gear selector moving out of desired range

1.

Locate the shift cable in the rear LH wheel well area.

Clevis Pin

Shift Cable

Mount

TRANSMISSION

4.

Adjust the shift cable so there is the same amount of cable travel when shifting slightly past the detents of HIGH (H) gear and PARK (P).

5.

Thread the upper or lower jam nut as required to obtain proper cable adjustment.

NOTE: This procedure may require a few attempts to obtain the proper adjustment.

6.

Once the proper adjustment is obtained, place the shift cable and upper jam nut into the mount. Tighten the lower jam nut against the mount.

7.

Start engine and shift through all gears to ensure the shift cable is properly adjusted. If transmission still ratchets after cable adjustment, check the CVT system for belt movement at idle. If difficulty shifting persists, the transmission may require service.

Shift Cable Dust Boot

2.

Inspect shift cable, clevis pin, pivot bushings, and dust boot. Replace if worn or damaged.

3.

If adjustment is required, loosen the lower jam nut and pull the cable out of the mount to move the upper jam nut.

Upper

Jam Nut 8

Lower

Jam Nut

8.3

TRANSMISSION

TRANSMISSION SERVICE

Transmission Removal / Service Notes

The engine, transmission and rear differential are bolted together as a unit. Removal of the transmission is not possible without removing the engine and differential.

The shift housing cannot be removed without first disassembling the transfer case.

NOTE: Refer to the “Engine Removal” section in

Chapter 3 to remove the engine and drivetrain.

Transfer Case Disassembly

IMPORTANT: Shift housing repairs are not possible without performing transfer case disassembly. Read and understand all instructions before beginning disassembly.

NOTE: Exploded views are located at the end of this chapter for additional information.

1.

Place the transmission in neutral position.

2.

Drain both the transfer case and transmission case halves.

3.

Remove the (7) bolts retaining the transmission support bracket.

x 7

4.

Remove the connector tube bolts securing the rear gear case and transmission transfer case.

x 4 x 3

8.4

Transfer Case

Drain Plug

Transmission Gearcase

Drain Plug

5.

Inspect the driveshaft splines for wear and the O-rings for damage. Replace if found to be worn or damaged.

6.

Remove the LH front isolator mount bracket. Refer to

Chapter 3.

7.

Remove the screws from the transfer case cover and remove the cover (note position of the longest screw #4).

1

4

6

8

3

2

5 7

TRANSMISSION

8.

After removing the cover, remove the intermediate shaft bearing cup and shims from the cover. Bearing cup is a slip-fit. Note and record the number and thickness of shims and set aside. Also note the two alignment dowels (circle) in the cover for installation.

NOTE: Record the number and thickness of shims for reassembly.

10. Remove the intermediate pinion shaft assembly from the housing. Check bearings and gear teeth for wear or damage and replace as needed. The shaft can be disassembled as shown using a press and standard bearing removal tools.

9.

Disassemble the cover as required, replacing components that are failed or worn. Check bearings for wear or damage and replace as needed using a press and standard bearing removal tools. Discard removed bearings as they become damaged by the removal process.

11. Disassemble the output pinion shaft assembly by removing the retaining screws on the bearing cup/bracket assembly.

Replace the output shaft seal. The output pinion shaft can be disassembled as shown using a press and standard bearing removal tools.

x 3

12. Output shaft bearing cup is a slip-fit. Remove, note and record the number and thickness of shims and set aside.

Note the alignment dowels (circled) in the cover for installation.

8

8.5

TRANSMISSION

13. Remove the front output pinion shaft assembly. The shaft can be disassembled as shown using a press and standard bearing removal tools.

15. Remove the lower snap ring from under the gear.

14. Remove the upper snap ring from the top side of the 21T main pinion gear and remove the gear.

16. Remove the intermediate shaft seal using a seal puller or other suitable method.

8.6

TRANSMISSION

Transfer Case Reassembly

1.

Install the intermediate shaft seal (circled) flush or slightly below the case. Install circlips and gear onto the input intermediate shaft as shown.

3.

Install the shims, bearing cup and alignment dowels into the retaining bracket.

2.

Install the front output pinion shaft assembly.

NOTE: Bearing is pressed onto the shaft

4.

Install a new output shaft seal flush with the case. Install the output pinion shaft assembly and bearing cup/bracket assembly as shown. Verify the alignment dowels are seated. Torque the bracket screws evenly to specification.

x 3 x 2

= T

Output Pinion Shaft Bracket Screws:

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-37 Nm)

8

8.7

TRANSMISSION

5.

Reinstall the intermediate pinion shaft assembly and bearing cup.

7.

Install the transfer case cover. Align the dowels (#1 & #7) and insert the cover screws (note position of the longest screw #4). Torque the screws evenly to specification in sequence as shown.

1

6

4

8

6.

Assemble the transfer case cover using new components as required. Press in new bearings and a seal using standard installation tools. (needle bearing is installed round edge inward) Install a new shaft seal flush with the surface, the shims and bearing cup. Apply a thin coat of sealant to the mating surfaces. Apply lubricant to the seal lip.

3

2

5 7

= T

Transfer Case Cover Screws:

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-37 Nm)

2871557

Apply Sealant PN 2871557

To Case Mating Surfaces

8.8

TRANSMISSION

Transmission Shift Housing Disassembly

IMPORTANT: Shift housing repairs are not possible without performing transfer case disassembly. Read and understand all instructions before beginning disassembly.

1.

Verify transmission is in neutral. Remove the (7) shift housing case screws from the front of the transmission and

(2) from the backside as shown.

2.

Place the transmission shift housing onto a flat surface as shown. Lift the transmission case half straight up and remove.

NOTE: Shift cable bracket removal is required.

transmission case half disassembly. Work slowly and deliberately to avoid component loss or damage.

3.

Using a suitable tool, pry the reverse retaining plate up from the (2) roll pins and remove the reverse clutch/gear assembly from the housing. Note the orientation of the (2) thrust washers (top / bottom of gear assembly) and needle bearing. Inspect these components and replace as required.

8

Reverse Gear

8.9

TRANSMISSION

4.

Remove the (5) screws retaining the park flange. Inspect the park flange dogs for wear or damage. Replace as required.

7.

Remove the input shaft seal and clutch intermediate shaft seal using a seal puller or punch.

5.

Inspect the shaft bearing. Use a standard bearing puller to remove the shaft bearing if required.

8.

Remove the (2) screws that attach the shift switch to the shift housing. Inspect the O-ring, switch poles and spring pins for wear or damage. Replace parts as required.

inspection, as the removal process damages the bearing.

6.

Remove the reverse idler snap ring, upper washer, gear, needle bearing, and lower washer from the idler shaft.

Neutral

NOTE: The reverse idler shaft is a non-serviceable item and should not be pressed out of the housing.

8.10

TRANSMISSION

9.

Remove the plate, pins, springs, drum gear and thrust washer from the shift housing. Replace any worn or damaged components.

11. Remove the park flange sleeve from the clutch shaft.

10. Remove the inner shift detent screws, springs, and balls from each side of the shift housing.

NOTE: The clutch yoke side uses the short, "black" detent screw and the gear selector side detent uses the longer, "silver" detent screw.

12. Pull back fully on gear selector arm to bring shift collar up and disengage the shift collar from the clutch yoke. Lifting on the clutch shaft may aid in shift collar removal.

13. Inspect the inner and outer gear teeth and splines on both ends of the shift collar for excessive wear or damage.

INSPECT

8

NOTE: Never remove the outer shift detent screw first. Removal of the outer screw will allow the detent ball and spring to fall into the shift housing.

8.11

TRANSMISSION

14. Remove the sliding shoes from the clutch yoke.

17. From the back side of the high gear assembly, separate the high and low gear assemblies by tapping the gear retaining plate from the roll pins using a brass punch. Note the order of disassembly on the entire gear assembly (plate, thrust washer, bearing, thrust washer). Inspect all parts for wear or damage and replace as required.

High Gear

Low Gear

15. Remove the clutch shaft from the housing. Note that the forward gear assembly will remain in the housing.

Retaining Plate

18. Remove the clutch yoke pivot pin set screw.

16. Remove the forward clutch gear assembly from the housing. Note the two needle bearings and washer on the bottom of the gear assembly.

19. Remove the clutch yoke pivot pin using a 10/24 x 2" bolt.

10/24 x 2”

8.12

TRANSMISSION

20. Remove the clutch yoke from the gear selector shaft and spring.

22. Remove the screw from the end of the gear selector shaft assembly and remove the assembly from the housing.

Note the clips, spring and plate orientation.

21. Remove the transmission input shaft from the housing.

Inspect the shaft bearing and replace if required using a shop press. Inspect the gears for damage and/or wear.

Replace the shaft if required.

23. Inspect the gear selector shaft and housing for excessive wear or damage. Replace components as required.

24. Inspect and replace the case bearings if required.

inspection, as the removal process damages the bearing.

8

8.13

TRANSMISSION

Transmission Shift Housing Reassembly

1.

Install a new shift lever seal flush with the case. Apply lubricant to the seal lip. Press new bearings (if required) into the housing.

3.

Install the input shaft assembly.

4.

Install clutch yoke into the gear selector shaft and spring.

Align the pivot pin holes and install clutch yoke pivot pin.

NOTE: Drive bearings and seals using the outer edge only.

2.

Assemble the spring and clips onto the shaft as shown.

Lubricate the shaft and install the assembly into the housing. Install the shift lever (“X” facing out) and screw onto the gear selector shaft. Torque to specification.

“X” out

5.

Apply sealant to the clutch yoke set screw threads and install flush with the case. Do not torque.

8.14

= T

Shift Lever Screw Torque:

15-20 ft. lbs. (20 - 27 Nm)

TRANSMISSION

6.

Assemble the high and low gear assemblies as shown.

Complete the assembly by aligning the roll pin holes and tapping the roll pins through the retaining plate and into the high gear using a brass punch.

8.

Install the clutch shaft into the housing. Note that the forward gear assembly is loose in the housing and that alignment of the shaft, gear assembly, thrust washer and bearing is necessary for shaft installation.

7.

Install the forward clutch gear assembly into the housing.

Note the two needle bearings and washer on the bottom of the gear assembly.

9.

Install the sliding shoes onto the clutch yoke.

10. Install the shift collar onto the shaft. Pull back fully on gear selector arm to bring the shift yoke arms up and engage the shift shoes onto the center groove of the shift collar.

Shifting the clutch shaft position may aid in shift collar installation. Install the park flange sleeve on top of the shift collar with the lip down as shown.

8

8.15

TRANSMISSION

11. Install the outer sleeve screws and inner shift detent screws, springs, and balls from each side of the shift housing. Use new o-rings anytime these screws are removed. Torque the outer sleeve screws to specification. TURN INNER

DETENT SCREWS ONLY UNTIL LIGHT SHIFTING

RESISTANCE IS FELT AT THIS TIME. PLACE THE

TRANSMISSION IN NEUTRAL.

NOTE: The clutch yoke side uses the short, "black" detent screw and the gear selector side detent uses the longer, "silver" detent screw.

With the transmission in neutral, lubricate and install the thrust washer, drum gear, plate, springs, pins and the shift position sensor/o-ring assembly into the shift housing. Verify the shift drum pins are aligned as shown with the transmission in neutral.

Torque the retaining screws to specification.

T

T

T

=

Apply Lubricant to shift drum components

Neutral

P

R

H

L

N

8.16

= T

Detent (outer) Sleeve Screws:

40-45 ft. lbs. (54-61 Nm)

= T

Shift Position Sensor Screws:

25-40 in. lbs. (2.8-4.5 Nm)

12. Complete shift detent screw installation. Torque the inner screws to specification.

= T

Shift Detent (inner) Screws:

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-36.6 Nm)

TRANSMISSION

13. Install the reverse idler lower washer, needle bearing, gear, upper washer and snap ring onto the idler shaft of the transmission case half.

16. Install the reverse clutch/gear assembly onto the park flange. Note the orientation of the (2) thrust washers (top / bottom of gear assembly), and needle bearing. Complete the assembly by aligning the roll pin holes and tapping the roll pins through the retaining plate and into the reverse gear using a brass punch.

14. Install a new shaft bearing (if required).

15. Install the park flange and torque the (5) screws to specification.

17. Install the input shaft seal and verify it is fully seated. Install the intermediate shaft seal (circled) flush or slightly below the case. Apply lubricant to both seal lips.

8

= T

Park Flange Screws:

130-155 in. lbs. (14.6-17.5 Nm)

8.17

TRANSMISSION

18. Place the transmission shift housing onto a flat surface as shown. Apply a bead of crankcase sealant onto the mating surfaces. Align the dowels and install the transmission case half onto the shift housing while rotating the input shaft, using care not to damage the seal surfaces.

20. Install the (2) shift housing case screws to the backside as shown. Torque to specification.

NOTE: Shift cable bracket installation is required.

2871557

Apply Sealant PN 2871557

To Case Mating Surfaces

19. Install the shift cable bracket (7) shift housing case screws to the front of the transmission. Torque to specification.

= T

Shift Housing Screws:

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-36.6 Nm)

21. Proceed with transfer case reassembly.

See “Transfer Case Reassembly” on page 8.7

8.18

= T

Shift Housing Screws:

23-27 ft. lbs. (31-36.6 Nm)

TRANSMISSION

TROUBLESHOOTING

Troubleshooting Checklist

Check the following items when shifting difficulty is encountered:

• Idle speed adjustment

• PVT alignment

• Transmission oil type/quality

• Transmission torque stop adjustment (where applicable)

• Engine torque stop adjustment (where applicable)

• Drive belt deflection

• Loose fasteners on rod ends

• Loose fasteners on selector box

• Worn rod ends, clevis pins, or pivot arm bushings

• Linkage rod adjustment and rod end positioning

• Shift selector rail travel

• Worn, broken or damaged internal transmission components

NOTE: To determine if shifting difficulty is caused by an internal transmission problem, isolate the transmission by disconnecting the shifter from transmission bellcrank. Verify the engine RPM is set to specification. Manually select each gear range at the transmission bellcrank, and test ride vehicle. If it functions properly, the problem is outside the transmission.

If transmission problem remains, disassemble transmission and inspect all gear dogs for wear (rounding), damage. Inspect all bearings, circlips, thrust washers and shafts for wear.

8

8.19

TRANSMISSION

TRANSMISSION EXPLODED VIEWS

Shift Housing / Transfer Case Exploded View

Shift Housing

Transfer Case

8.20

BRAKES

CHAPTER 9

BRAKES

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2


SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.2

BRAKE SYSTEM SERVICE NOTES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.3

BRAKE NOISE TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.3

HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM OPERATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4

BRAKE SYSTEM EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.4

MASTER CYLINDER. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5

REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5

INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5

BRAKE PEDAL LEVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5

PEDAL REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5

PEDAL INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.5

BRAKE BLEEDING / FLUID CHANGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.6

FRONT BRAKE PADS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.7

PAD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.7

PAD INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.7

PAD ASSEMBLY / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.8

BRAKE BURNISHING PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.8

FRONT CALIPER SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.9

CALIPER EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.9

CALIPER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.9

CALIPER DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.10

CALIPER INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.11

CALIPER ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.11

CALIPER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.12

FRONT BRAKE DISC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.13

DISC INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.13

DISC REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.13

REAR BRAKE PAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.14

PAD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.14

PAD INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.15

PAD ASSEMBLY / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.15

BRAKE BURNISHING PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.15

REAR CALIPER SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.16

CALIPER EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.16

CALIPER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.16

CALIPER DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.17

CALIPER INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.17

CALIPER ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.18

CALIPER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.18

REAR BRAKE DISC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.19

DISC INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.19

DISC REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.19


BRAKES SQUEAL / POOR BRAKE PERFORMANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.20

PEDAL VIBRATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.20

CALIPER OVERHEATS (BRAKES DRAG) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.20

BRAKES LOCK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9.20

9

9.1

BRAKES

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

Item

Front Brake Pad Thickness

Front Brake Disc Thickness

Front Brake Disc Runout

Item

Rear Brake Pad Thickness

Rear Brake Disc Thickness

Rear Brake Disc Runout

FRONT BRAKE SYSTEM

Standard

.300 ± .007" (7.62 ± .178 mm)

.188" (4.76 mm)

-

REAR BRAKE SYSTEM

Standard

.298 ± .007" (7.57 ± .178 mm)

.188" (4.76 mm)

-

Service Limit

.180" (4.6 mm)

.170" (4.32 mm)

.010" (.254mm)

Service Limit

.180" (4.6 mm)

.170" (4.32 mm)

.010" (.254 mm)


Item

Front Caliper Mounting Bolts

Rear Caliper Mounting Bolts

Brake Line Flare

Brake Line Banjo Bolts

(Caliper Attachment)

Brake Line Banjo Bolt

(Master Cylinder Attachment)

Front Brake Disc to Hub Bolts

Rear Brake Disc to Hub Bolts

Brake Switch

Master Cylinder to Frame

Brake Pedal Mounting

Bracket to Frame

Torque ft. lbs.

30

18

12-15

15

15

28

28

12-15

17

15

Torque

Nm

40

24

16-20

20

20

38

38

16-20

23

23

SPECIAL TOOLS

Part Number

2870975


Mity Vac™ Pressure Test Tool

9.2

BRAKES

BRAKE SYSTEM SERVICE NOTES

Disc brake systems are light weight, low maintenance, and perform well in the conditions this vehicle will routinely encounter. There are a few things to remember when replacing disc brake pads or performing brake system service to ensure proper system function and maximum pad service life.

• Optional pads are available to suit conditions in your area. Select a pad to fit riding style and environment.

• Do not over-fill the master cylinder fluid reservoir.

• Make sure the brake pedal returns freely and completely.

• Adjust stop pin on front caliper after pad service.

• Check and adjust master cylinder reservoir fluid level after pad service.

• Make sure atmospheric vent on reservoir is unobstructed.

• Test for brake drag after any brake system service and investigate cause if brake drag is evident.

• Make sure caliper moves freely on guide pins (where applicable).

• Inspect caliper piston seals for foreign material that could prevent caliper pistons from returning freely.

• Perform a brake burnishing procedure after installing new pads to maximize service life.

• DO NOT lubricate or clean the brake components with aerosol or petroleum products. Use only approved brake cleaning products.

BRAKE NOISE TROUBLESHOOTING

Dirt or dust buildup on the brake pads and disc is the most common cause of brake noise (squeal caused by vibration). If cleaning does not reduce the occurrence of brake noise, Permatex™ Disc Brake Quiet (PN 2872113) can be applied to the back of the pads.

Follow directions on the package. This will keep pads in contact with caliper piston(s) to reduce the chance of squeaks caused by dirt or dust.

Possible Cause

Brake Noise Troubleshooting

Dirt, dust, or imbedded material on pads or disc

Remedy

Spray disc and pads with CRC Brakeleen™ or an equivalent non-flammable aerosol brake cleaner. Remove pads and/or disc hub to clean imbedded material from disc or pads.

Pad(s) dragging on disc (noise or premature pad wear) because of improper adjustment

Master cylinder reservoir overfilled

Master cylinder compensating port restricted

Master cylinder piston not returning completely

Caliper piston(s) not returning

Operator error (riding the brake)

Adjust pad stop (front calipers)

Set to proper level

Clean compensating port

Inspect. Repair as necessary

Clean piston(s) seal

Educate operator

Loose wheel hub or bearings

Brake disc warped or excessively worn

Brake disc misaligned or loose

Check wheel and hub for abnormal movement.

Replace disc

Noise is from other source (axle, hub, disc or wheel)

Wrong pad for conditions

Inspect and repair as necessary

If noise does not change when brake is applied check other sources. Inspect and repair as necessary

Change to a softer or harder pad

9

9.3

BRAKES

HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM OPERATION

The Polaris brake system consists of the following components or assemblies: brake pedal, master cylinder, hydraulic brake lines, brake calipers, brake pads, and brake discs, which are secured to the drive line.

Brake fluid level is critical to proper system operation. Too little fluid will allow air to enter the system and cause the brakes to feel spongy. Too much fluid could cause brakes to drag due to fluid expansion.

When the foot activated brake lever is applied it applies pressure on the piston within the master cylinder. As the master cylinder piston moves inward it closes a small opening (compensating port) within the cylinder and starts to build pressure within the brake system. As the pressure within the system is increased, the pistons located in the brake calipers move outward and apply pressure to the moveable brake pads. These pads contact the brake discs and move the calipers in their floating bracket, pulling the stationary side pads into the brake discs. The resulting friction reduces brake disc and vehicle speed.

The friction applied to the brake pads will cause the pads to wear. As these pads wear, the piston within the caliper moves further outward and becomes self adjusting. Fluid from the reservoir fills the additional area created when the caliper piston moves outward.

Located within the master cylinder is the compensating port which is opened and closed by the master cylinder piston assembly. As the temperature within the hydraulic system changes, this port compensates for fluid expansion or contraction. Due to the high temperatures created within the system during heavy braking, it is very important that the master cylinder reservoir have adequate space to allow for fluid expansion. Never overfill the reservoir!

Do not fill the reservoir beyond the MAX LEVEL line!

When servicing Polaris brake systems use only Polaris DOT 4

Brake Fluid (PN 2872189) . WARNING: Once a bottle is opened, use what is necessary and discard the rest in accordance with local laws. Do not store or use a partial bottle of brake fluid.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning it rapidly absorbs moisture.

This causes the boiling temperature of the brake fluid to drop, which can lead to early brake fade and the possibility of serious injury.

BRAKE SYSTEM EXPLODED VIEW

1

LH Front Caliper

2

Cross

Fitting

LH Rear Line

3

Brake

Switch

Master Cylinder

LH Front

Brake Line

1

2

RH Front Caliper

3

2

LH Rear Caliper

2

1 MC Rear

Brake Line

1

1

RH Rear Line

RH Rear Caliper

RH Front

Brake Line

Master Cylinder Side View

9.4

1

2

3

Caliper Banjo Style Fittings:

15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).

All Caliper Bleed Screws:

47 in. lbs. (5.3 Nm)

All Flare Style Fittings:

12-15 ft. lbs. (16-20 Nm)

15 ft. lbs.

(20 Nm)

BRAKES

MASTER CYLINDER

Removal

1.

Locate the master cylinder above the LH front tire in the wheel well area.

Master Cylinder

2.

Remove the clip (A) from the clevis pin (B) that attaches the master cylinder to the brake pedal lever.

17 ft. lbs.

(23 Nm)

B

D

CAUTION

Brake fluid will damage finished surfaces.

Do not allow brake fluid to come in contact with finished surfaces.

NOTE: Make note of front and rear brake line locations to master cylinder.

4.

Loosen the brake line banjo bolts (C) and allow fluid to drain.

NOTE: Dispose of fluid properly. Do not re-use.

5.

Remove the two mounting fasteners (D) that secure the master cylinder to the frame.

Installation

1.

Reverse Steps 1-5 for master cylinder installation.

Refer to the torque specifications in the illustration.

2.

After installing the foot brake check pedal freeplay. Pedal freeplay should not exceed .090” (2.286 mm).

BRAKE PEDAL LEVER

Pedal Removal

1.

Locate the brake pedal lever (L) and remove the master cylinder clevis pin (B) and clip (A).

2.

Remove the E-ring (E) from the pedal mount and remove the brake pedal lever (L) from the vehicle.

L

E

B

A

D

A 9

C

15 ft. lbs.

(20 Nm)

3.

Place a container to catch brake fluid under the master cylinder brake line banjo bolts (C).

Pedal Installation

1.

Reverse “Removal” steps to install brake pedal lever.

Brake pedal freeplay should not exceed .090” (2.28 mm).

Brake Pedal Freeplay:

.090” (2.28 mm)

9.5

BRAKES

BRAKE BLEEDING / FLUID CHANGE

NOTE: When bleeding the brakes or replacing the fluid always start with the furthest caliper from the master cylinder.

CAUTION

Always wear safety glasses.

CAUTION

Brake fluid will damage finished surfaces. Do not allow brake fluid to come in contact with finished surfaces. This procedure should be used to change fluid or bleed brakes during regular maintenance.

1.

Clean master cylinder reservoir cover thoroughly and remove the cover.

Master Cylinder

Remove

Cover

4.

Begin bleeding procedure with the caliper that is farthest from the master cylinder. Install a box end wrench on caliper bleeder screw. Attach a clean, clear hose to fitting and place the other end in a clean container. Be sure the hose fits tightly on fitting.

5.

Have an assistant slowly pump foot pedal until pressure builds and holds.

6.

Hold brake pedal on to maintain pedal pressure, and open bleeder screw. Close bleeder screw and release foot pedal.

NOTE: Do not release foot pedal before bleeder screw is tight or air may be drawn into master cylinder.

7.

Repeat procedure until clean fluid appears in bleeder hose and all air has been purged. Add fluid as necessary to maintain level in reservoir.

CAUTION

Maintain at least 1/2"(1.27 cm) of brake fluid in the reservoir to prevent air from entering the master cylinder.

8.

Tighten bleeder screw securely and remove bleeder hose.

Torque bleeder screw to 47 in. lbs. (5.3 Nm) .

9.

Repeat procedure Steps 5 - 8 for the remaining calipers.

10. Add brake fluid to MAX level inside reservoir.

Master Cylinder Fluid Level

Between the MIN and MAX line shown on the reservoir.

2.

If changing fluid, remove old fluid from reservoir with a

Mity Vac™ pump or similar tool.

Mity Vac™ (PN 2870975)

11. Install master cylinder reservoir cover.

12. Field test machine at low speed before putting into service.

Check for proper braking action and pedal reserve. With pedal firmly applied, pedal reserve should be no less than

1/2"(1.3 cm).

13. Check brake system for fluid leaks.

3.

Add brake fluid to the indicated MAX level of reservoir.

Polaris DOT 4 Brake Fluid

(P/N 2872189)

9.6

BRAKES

FRONT BRAKE PADS

Pad Removal

1.

Elevate and support front of vehicle.

CAUTION

Use care when supporting vehicle so that it does not tip or fall.

Severe injury may occur if machine tips or falls.

2.

Remove the front wheel. Loosen pad adjuster screw 2-3 turns.

5.

Push mounting bracket inward and slip outer brake pad past edge. Then remove inner pad.

Pad Inspection

1.

Measure the thickness of the pad material. Replace pads if worn beyond the service limit.

3.

Remove the upper and lower caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the front hub.

NOTE: When removing caliper, use care not to damage brake line. Support caliper so to avoid kinking or bending brake line.

4.

Push caliper piston into caliper bore slowly using a

C-clamp or locking pliers with pads installed.

9 compensating port into master cylinder fluid reservoir when piston is pushed back into caliper.

Remove excess fluid from reservoir as required.

Measure

Thickness

Front Brake Pad Thickness

New: .300” ± .007” (7.6 mm ± .178 mm)

Service Limit: .180” (4.6 mm)

9.7

BRAKES

Pad Assembly / Installation

1.

Lubricate mounting bracket pins with a light film of

Polaris Premium All Season Grease ( PN 2871423 ), and install rubber dust boots.

5.

Install the adjustment set screw and turn clockwise until stationary pad contacts disc, then back off 1/2 turn

(counterclockwise).

1/2 Turn

2.

Compress mounting bracket and make sure dust boots are fully seated. Install pads with friction material facing each other.

6.

Verify fluid level in reservoir is up to MAX line inside reservoir and install reservoir cap.

Master Cylinder Fluid

Up to MAX line inside reservoir

WARNING

If brake pads are contaminated with grease, oil, or liquid soaked do not use the pads.

Use only new, clean pads.

3.

Install caliper onto front hub and torque mounting bolts.

30 ft. lbs.

(40 Nm)

7.

Install wheel and torque wheel nuts.

= T

Front Wheel Nut Torque:

27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

Brake Burnishing Procedure

It is required that a burnishing procedure be performed after installation of new brake pads to extend service life and reduce noise.

Start machine and slowly increase speed to 30 mph. Gradually apply brakes to stop machine. Allow pads and disc to cool sufficiently during the procedure. Do not allow pads or disc to become hot or warping may result. Repeat this procedure 10 times.

= T

Front Caliper Mount Bolt Torque:

30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)

4.

Slowly pump the brake pedal until pressure has been built up. Maintain at least 1/2, (12.7 mm) of brake fluid in the reservoir to prevent air from entering the brake system.

9.8

BRAKES

FRONT CALIPER SERVICE

Caliper Exploded View

Apply Polaris DOT 4 Brake Fluid to Component

Apply Polaris All Purpose

Grease

D

G

F

E

C

A

47 in. lbs.

(5.3 Nm)

B

H

I D

A. Socket Set Screw

B. Bleeder Screw

C. Caliper Assy.

D. Boot

E. Square O-ring (thick)

F. Square O-ring (thin)

G. Piston

H. Caliper Mount

I. Brake Pads

Caliper Removal

1.

Elevate and safely support the front of the vehicle.

2.

Remove the (4) wheel nuts and the front wheel.

CAUTION

Use care when supporting vehicle so that it does not tip or fall. Severe injury may occur.

3.

Clean caliper area before removal.

4.

Place a container below the caliper to catch brake fluid when removing the line. Remove brake line from caliper.

5.

Loosen brake pad adjustment set screw 2-3 turns to allow brake pad removal after the caliper is removed.

9

Remove

Brake Line

9.9

BRAKES

6.

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper assembly from the front hub.

3.

Remove mounting bracket, pin assembly and dust boot.

Remove

Caliper Disassembly

1.

Push brake pad retainer pin inward and slip brake pads past the edge.

4.

Thoroughly clean the brake caliper before disassembly and prepare a clean work area to disassembly the caliper.

5.

Use low pressure compressed air to remove the pistons from the caliper.

2.

Remove both brake pads from the caliper.

CAUTION

Use caution and always wear safety glasses when working with compressed air.

6.

While holding the caliper and covering the pistons with a shop towel, carefully apply compressed air to the brake line inlet to force the pistons out from the caliper.

IMPORTANT: Do not remove the caliper pistons with a pliers. The piston sealing surfaces will become damaged if a pliers is used.

7.

Once the pistons are removed, use a pick to carefully remove the square O-rings from the caliper. O-rings should be replaced during caliper service.

9.10

BRAKES

8.

Clean the caliper body, piston, and retaining bracket with brake cleaner or alcohol.

Clean

Components

2.

Inspect piston for nicks, scratches, pitting or wear. Measure piston diameter and replace if damaged or worn beyond service limit.

NOTE: Be sure to clean seal grooves in caliper body.

= In. / mm.

Caliper Inspection

1.

Inspect caliper body for nicks, scratches, pitting or wear.

Measure bore size and compare to specifications. Replace if damaged or worn beyond service limit.

Caliper Piston O.D.:

Std: 1.002” (25.45 mm)

Service Limit: 1.000” (25.4 mm)

3.

Inspect the brake disc and pads as outlined in this chapter.

Caliper Assembly

1.

Install new O-rings in the caliper body. Be sure the grooves are clean and free of residue or brakes may drag upon assembly.

= In. / mm.

Caliper Piston Bore I.D.:

Std: 1.004” (25.5 mm)


Seal

Grooves

9

New

O-Rings

2.

Coat pistons with clean Polaris DOT 4 Brake Fluid. Install pistons with a twisting motion while pushing inward.

Piston should slide in and out of bore smoothly, with light resistance.

9.11

BRAKES

3.

Lubricate the mounting bracket pins with Polaris Premium

All Season Grease ( PN 2871423 ), and install the rubber dust seal boots.

6.

Install brake line and tighten securely with a line wrench.

Torque the banjo bolt brake line(s) to the proper torque specification.

15 ft.lbs.

(20 Nm)

4.

Compress the mounting bracket and make sure the dust seal boots are fully seated. Install the brake pads. Clean the disc and pads with brake parts cleaner or denatured alcohol to remove any dirt, oil or grease.

7.

Install the pad adjustment screw and turn until stationary pad contacts disc, then back off 1/2 turn.

8.

Perform brake bleeding procedure as outlined earlier in this chapter.

9.


Caliper Installation

5.

Install caliper and torque mounting bolts to specification.

30 ft. lbs.

(40 Nm)

= T

Front Wheel Nut Torque:

27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

NOTE: If new brake pads are installed, brake burnishing is recommended (see “FRONT BRAKE

PADS - Brake Burnishing Procedure”).

= T

Front Caliper Mount Bolt Torque:

30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm)

9.12

BRAKES

FRONT BRAKE DISC

Disc Inspection

1.

Visually inspect disc for scoring, scratches, or gouges.

Replace the disc if any deep scratches are evident.

2.

Use a 0-1” micrometer and measure the disc thickness at eight different points around the pad contact surface.

Replace disc if worn beyond service limit.

Measure

Thickness

3.

Remove the hub assembly from the vehicle and remove the

(4) bolts retaining the disc to the hub.

(4) Bolts

Cotter

Pin

Washers

Front

View

Side

View

Nut

4.

Clean the wheel hub mating surface and install new disc on wheel hub.

5.

Install new bolts and torque to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) .

28 ft. lbs.

(38 Nm)

Brake Disc Thickness

New .188” (4.76 mm)

Service Limit .170” (4.32 mm)

Brake Disc Thickness Variance

Service Limit .002” (.051 mm) difference between measurements

3.

Mount a dial indicator and measure disc runout. Slowly rotate the disc and read total runout on the dial indicator.

Replace the disc if runout exceeds specifications.

Brake Disc Runout

Service Limit .010” (.254 mm)

Disc Replacement

1.

Remove front brake caliper (see “FRONT CALIPER

SERVICE”).

2.

Remove wheel hub cotter pin, castle nut and washers.

CAUTION

Always use new brake disc mounting bolts. The bolts have a pre-applied locking agent which is destroyed upon removal.

6.

Install wheel hub assembly, washers, and castle nut.

Torque castle nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.

7.

Install front brake caliper (see “FRONT CALIPER

SERVICE”). Follow the bleeding procedure outlined earlier in this chapter.

8.

Field test unit for proper braking action before putting into service. Inspect for fluid leaks and firm brakes. Make sure the brake is not dragging when pedal is released. If the brake drags, re-check assembly and installation.

9.13

9

BRAKES

REAR BRAKE PAD

Pad Removal

1.

Elevate and support rear of vehicle.

CAUTION

Use care when supporting vehicle so that it does not tip or fall.

Severe injury may occur if machine tips or falls.

2.

Remove the rear wheel.

3.

Loosen pad adjuster screw 2-3 turns.

5.

Push caliper piston into the caliper bore slowly using a Cclamp or locking pliers with pads installed. compensating port into master cylinder fluid reservoir when piston is pushed back into caliper.

Remove excess fluid from reservoir as required.

6.

Push caliper mounting bracket inward and slip outer brake pad past the edge to remove.

4.

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and lift caliper off the brake disc.

7.

Remove the inner brake pad.

NOTE: When removing caliper, be careful not to damage brake line. Support caliper so as not to kink or bend brake line.

9.14

BRAKES

Pad Inspection

1.

Clean the caliper with brake cleaner or alcohol.

2.

Measure the thickness of the pad material. Replace pads if worn beyond the service limit.

3.

Install caliper and torque mounting bolts to specification.

18 ft. lbs.

(24 Nm)

Measure

Thickness

Rear Brake Pad Thickness

New .298” ± .007” (7.57 mm ± .178 mm)

Service Limit .180” (4.6 mm)

Pad Assembly / Installation

1.

Lubricate mounting bracket pins with a light film of

Polaris Premium All Season Grease ( PN 2871423 ), and install rubber dust boots.

= T

Rear Caliper Mount Bolt Torque:

18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)

4.

Slowly pump the brake pedal until pressure has been built up. Maintain at least 1/2, (12.7 mm) of brake fluid in the reservoir to prevent air from entering the brake system.

5.

Install the adjustment set screw and turn clockwise until the stationary pad contacts the disc, then back off 1/2 turn

(counterclockwise).

6.

Verify fluid level in reservoir is up to the MAX line inside reservoir and install reservoir cap.

Master Cylinder Fluid

Up to MAX line inside reservoir

2.

Compress mounting bracket and make sure dust boots are fully seated. Install pads with friction material facing each other.

WARNING

If brake pads are contaminated with grease, oil, or liquid soaked do not use the pads.

Use only new clean pads.

7.

Install wheel and torque wheel nuts.

= T

Rear Wheel Nut Torque:

27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

Brake Burnishing Procedure

It is required that a burnishing procedure be performed after installation of new brake pads to extend service life and reduce noise.

Start machine and slowly increase speed to 30 mph. Gradually apply brakes to stop machine. Allow pads and disc to cool sufficiently during the procedure. Do not allow pads or disc to become hot or warping may result. Repeat this procedure 10 times.

9.15

9

BRAKES

REAR CALIPER SERVICE

Caliper Exploded View

47 in. lbs.

(5.3 Nm)

I

D

G

Apply Polaris DOT 4 Brake Fluid to Component

Apply Polaris All Purpose

Grease

K

H

A. Brake Pad

B. Mount Bracket

C. Piston

D. Caliper Assy.

E. Square Ring (thick)

F. Square Ring (thin)

G. Boot, Pin Bushing

H. Boot, Pin Seal

I. Bleeder Screw

K. Set Screw

E

Caliper Removal

1.

Elevate and safely support the rear of the vehicle.

CAUTION

F

Use care when supporting vehicle so that it does not tip or fall. Severe injury may occur.

2.

Remove the (4) wheel nuts and rear wheel.

3.

Clean caliper area before removal.

4.

Place a container below the caliper to catch the brake fluid when removing the line. Remove brake line from caliper.

Remove

Brake Line

C

B

A

5.

Loosen the brake pad adjustment set screw to allow brake pad removal after the caliper is removed.

6.

Remove the two caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper.

Remove

9.16

BRAKES

Caliper Disassembly

1.

Remove brake pad adjustment set screw (K).

2.

Push upper pad retainer pin inward and slip brake pads past the edge and remove from the caliper.

3.

Remove mounting bracket (B) and dust boots (G) and (H).

D

G

Caliper Inspection

1.

Inspect caliper body for nicks, scratches or wear. Measure bore size and compare to specifications. Replace if damage is evident or if worn beyond service limit.

K

Pads

H

E

F

C

B

4.

Using a hammer and a small punch, remove the piston (C) from the caliper body (D). Then remove the square O-rings

(E) and (F) from the caliper body (D).

= In. / mm.

Rear Caliper Piston Bore I.D.

Standard: 1.191” (30.25 mm)

Service Limit: 1.192” (30.28 mm )

2.

Inspect piston for nicks, scratches, wear or damage.

Measure diameter and replace if damaged or worn beyond service limit.

5.

Clean the caliper body, piston, and retaining bracket with brake cleaner or alcohol.

NOTE: Be sure to clean seal grooves in caliper body.

Clean Components

= In. / mm.

Rear Caliper Piston O.D.

Standard: 1.1875” (30.16 mm )


3.

Inspect the brake disc and pads as outlined in this chapter.

9

9.17

BRAKES

Caliper Assembly

1.

Install new caliper seals (A) in the caliper body (B). Be sure groove is clean and free of residue or brakes may drag upon assembly.

B

Caliper Installation

5.

Install the rear caliper with the mounting bolts. Torque mounting bolts to 18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm) .

18 ft. lbs.

(24 Nm)

D

A

2.

Coat piston with clean Polaris DOT 4 Brake Fluid (PN

2872189) . Install piston (D) with a twisting motion while pushing inward. Piston should slide in and out of bore smoothly with light resistance.

3.

Lubricate the mounting bracket pins with Polaris Premium

All Season Grease ( PN 2871423 ), and install the rubber dust seal boots.

= T

Rear Caliper Mount Bolt Torque:

18 ft. lbs. (24 Nm)

6.

Install brake line banjo bolt and torque to specification.

15 ft. lbs.

(21 Nm)

Polaris Premium All Season Grease

(PN 2871423)

7.

Install the pad adjustment screw and turn until stationary pad contacts disc, then back off 1/2 turn.

8.

Perform brake bleeding procedure as outlined earlier in this chapter.

9.


4.

Compress the mounting bracket and make sure the dust seals are fully seated. Install the brake pads. Clean the disc and pads with brake parts cleaner or denatured alcohol to remove any dirt, oil or grease.

= T

Rear Wheel Nut Torque:

27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm)

NOTE: If new brake pads are installed, brake burnishing is recommended (see “REAR BRAKE

PADS - Brake Burnishing Procedure”).

9.18

BRAKES

REAR BRAKE DISC

Disc Inspection

1.

Visually inspect disc for scoring, scratches, or gouges.

Replace the disc if any deep scratches are evident.

2.

Use a 0-1” micrometer and measure the disc thickness at eight different points around the pad contact surface.

Replace disc if worn beyond service limit.

3.

Remove the hub assembly from the vehicle and remove the

(4) bolts retaining the disc to the hub.

(4) Bolts

Cotter

Pin

Washers

Front

View

Side

View

Measure

Thickness

Brake Disc Thickness

New: .188” (4.76 mm)

Service Limit: .170” (4.32 mm)

Nut

4.

Clean the wheel hub mating surface and install new disc on wheel hub.

5.

Install new bolts and torque to 28 ft. lbs. (38 Nm) .

28 ft. lbs.

(38 Nm)

Brake Disc Thickness Variance

Service Limit .002” (.051 mm) difference between measurements

3.

Mount a dial indicator and measure disc runout. Slowly rotate the disc and read total runout on the dial indicator.

Replace the disc if runout exceeds specifications.

Brake Disc Runout

Service Limit .010” (.254 mm)

Disc Replacement

1.

Remove rear brake caliper (see “REAR CALIPER

SERVICE”).

2.

Remove wheel hub cotter pin, castle nut and washers.

CAUTION

Always use new brake disc mounting bolts. The bolts have a pre-applied locking agent which is destroyed upon removal.

6.

Install wheel hub assembly, washers, and castle nut.

Torque castle nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.

7.

Install rear brake caliper (see “REAR CALIPER

SERVICE”). Follow the bleeding procedure outlined earlier in this chapter.

8.

Field test unit for proper braking action before putting into service. Inspect for fluid leaks and firm brakes. Make sure the brake is not dragging when pedal is released. If the brake drags, re-check assembly and installation.

9.19

9

BRAKES

TROUBLESHOOTING

Brakes Squeal / Poor Brake Performance

• Air in system

• Water in system (brake fluid contaminated)

• Caliper or disc misaligned

• Caliper dirty or damaged

• Brake line damaged or lining ruptured

• Worn disc and/or friction pads

• Incorrectly adjusted stationary pad

• Worn or damaged master cylinder or components

• Damaged break pad noise insulator

• Brake pads dragging

• Brake caliper dragging

Pedal Vibration

• Disc damaged

• Disc worn (runout or thickness variance exceeds service limit)

Caliper Overheats (Brakes Drag)

• Compensating port plugged

• Pad clearance set incorrectly

• Brake pedal binding or unable to return fully

• Residue build up under caliper seals

• Operator riding brakes

Brakes Lock

• Alignment of caliper to disc

• Caliper pistons sticking

• Improper assembly of brake system components

9.20

ELECTRICAL

CHAPTER 10

ELECTRICAL

GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3

SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3

ELECTRICAL SERVICE NOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3

UNDER-DASH COMPONENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.3

SWITCHES / CONTROLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.4

HEADLAMP SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.4

AWD SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.4

BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.4

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5

OVERVIEW. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5

RIDER INFORMATION DISPLAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.5

STANDARD DISPLAY MODES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.6

DIAGNOSTIC DISPLAY MODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.6

VIEWING DIAGNOSTIC CODES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.8

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.9

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.9

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TROUBLESHOOTING TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.10

TEST 1 - NO ALL WHEEL DRIVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.10

TEST 2 - NO DISPLAY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.11

TEST 3 - VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.11

TEST 4 - NO AWD HUB SAFETY LIMITER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.12

TEST 5 - FUEL GAUGE DISPLAY NOT WORKING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.13

TEST 6 - GEAR INDICATOR NOT WORKING (TRANSMISSION SWITCH) . . . . . . . 10.13

ALL WHEEL DRIVE COIL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.14

OPERATION OVERVIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.14

DIAGNOSING SYSTEM FAILURES. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.14

GEAR POSITION INDICATOR SWITCH. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.14

TEST DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.14

SPEED SENSOR. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.14

LOCATION / TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.14

HEAD LIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.15

HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.15

HEADLAMP BULB REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.15

HEADLAMP HOUSING REMOVAL / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.16

TAIL / BRAKE / WORK LIGHTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.16

BULB REPLACEMENT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.16

COOLING SYSTEM SCHEMATIC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.17

COOLING SYSTEM BREAK-OUT DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.17

FAN CONTROL CIRCUIT OPERATION / TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.18

FAN CONTROL CIRCUIT BYPASS TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.18

COOLANT TEMPERATURE SENSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.18

EFI DIAGNOSTICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.18

EFI COMPONENT TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.18

FUEL SENDER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.18

TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.18

RELAYS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.19

FUSE BOX LAYOUT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.19

FUSES / CIRCUIT BREAKER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.20

10

10.1

ELECTRICAL

CHARGING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.21

CURRENT DRAW - KEY OFF . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.21

CHARGING SYSTEM “BREAK EVEN” TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.21

CHARGING SYSTEM ALTERNATOR TESTS. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.22

CHARGING SYSTEM TESTING FLOW CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.23

BATTERY SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.24

BATTERY IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.24

CONVENTIONAL BATTERY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.24

BATTERY ACTIVATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.24

BATTERY INSPECTION / REMOVAL / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.25

CONVENTIONAL BATTERY TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.25

OCV - OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.26

SPECIFIC GRAVITY TEST / LOAD TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.26

OFF SEASON STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.27

CHARGING PROCEDURE (CONVENTIONAL). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.27

LOW MAINTENANCE BATTERY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.28

GENERAL BATTERY INFORMATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.28

BATTERY REMOVAL / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.28

BATTERY TESTING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.29

OCV - OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE TEST. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.29

LOAD TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.29

OFF-SEASON STORAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.29

CHARGING PROCEDURE (LOW MAINTENANCE) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.30

STARTING SYSTEM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.30

TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.30

VOLTAGE DROP TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.31

STARTER MOTOR REMOVAL / DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.31

BRUSH INSPECTION / REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.31

ARMATURE TESTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.32

STARTER REASSEMBLY / INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.33

STARTER DRIVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.34

STARTER SOLENOID BENCH TEST / OPERATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.34

STARTER EXPLODED VIEW . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.35

STARTING SYSTEM TESTING FLOW CHART . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.36

CONDITION: STARTER FAILS TO TURN OVER THE ENGINE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.36

ELECTRICAL BREAKOUT DIAGRAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.37

12V KEY-ON POWER CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.37

STARTING SYSTEM CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.37

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER CIRCUIT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.38

TRANSMISSION SWITCH CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.38

WHEEL SPEED SENSOR CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.39

AWD CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.39

FUEL GAUGE DISPLAY CIRCUIT. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.40

COOLING FAN CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.40

CHARGING SYSTEM CIRCUIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10.41

10.2

ELECTRICAL


Special Tools

Part Number

PV-43568

2870630

2870836

2460761

2871745

-


Fluke™ 77 Digital Multimeter

Timing Light

Battery Hydrometer

Hall Effect Sensor Probe Harness

Static Timing Light Harness

Digital Wrench™ (see Chapter 4)

Electrical Service Notes

Keep the following notes in mind when diagnosing an electrical problem:

• Refer to wiring diagram for stator and electrical component resistance specifications.

• When measuring resistance of a component that has a resistance value under 10 Ohms, remember to subtract meter lead resistance from the reading. Connect the leads together and record the resistance. The resistance of the component is equal to tested value minus the lead resistance.

• Become familiar with the operation of your meter. Be sure leads are in the proper jack for the test being performed (i.e. 10A jack for current readings). Refer to the Owner’s Manual included with your meter for more information.

• Voltage, amperage, and resistance values included in this manual are obtained with a Fluke™ 77 Digital

Multimeter (PV-43568). This meter is used when diagnosing electrical problems. Readings obtained with other meters may differ.

• Pay attention to the prefix on the multimeter reading (K,

M, etc.) and the position of the decimal point.

• For resistance readings, isolate the component to be tested. Disconnect it from the wiring harness or power supply.

Under-Dash Components

The following switches and components can be accessed underneath the instrument / dash panel:

• Speedometer

• Speedometer Mode Switch

• Digital Wrench Diagnostic Connector

• Digital Wrench / ECU Reflash 9 Vdc Battery Plug

• AWD Switch

• Headlamp Switch

• 12 Vdc Accessory Power Point

• Ignition Switch

• Work Light Switch

• Fuse / Relay Panel

10

10.3

ELECTRICAL

SWITCHES / CONTROLS

Headlamp Switch

1.

Disconnect the headlamp switch harness (Brown, Green, and Red/Yellow), by depressing the connector lock and pulling on the connector. Do not pull on the wiring.

2.

Test the switch connections and check for continuity at the following pins as shown in the illustration.

HEADLAMP SWITCH

AWD SWITCH

ON

OFF

SWITCH

BACK

LIGHT

BACK VIEW OF SWITCH

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

X X X

X X

Brake Light Switch

1.

The brake light switch is located under the driver’s seat along the lower frame. The brake pressure switch is installed into this cross fitting block.

ON

OFF

SWITCH

BACK

LIGHT

BACK VIEW OF SWITCH

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

X X X

X X

AWD Switch

1.

Disconnect the switch harness (Grey, Red/White, and

Brown), by depressing the connector lock and pulling on the connector. Do not pull on the wiring.

2.

Test the switch connections and check for continuity at the pins shown in the illustration.

2.

Disconnect wire harness from switch.

3.

Connect an ohmmeter across switch contacts. Reading should be infinite (•).

4.

Apply foot brake and check for continuity between switch contacts. If there is no continuity or greater than .5 ohms resistance when the brake is applied with slight pressure, first clean the switch contacts and re-test. Replace switch if necessary.

10.4

ELECTRICAL

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

Overview

The instrument cluster senses vehicle speed from the right front wheel. The instrument cluster measures distance in miles as well as time, hours of operation and engine RPM.

Speedometer

Rider Information Display

The rider information display is located in the instrument cluster. All segments will light up for 2.5 seconds at start-up.

NOTE: If the instrument cluster fails to illuminate, a battery over-voltage may have occurred and the instrument cluster may have shut off to protect the electronic speedometer.

3 4 5 6

7

8

Speedometer

Needle

2

Rider

Information

Display

NOTE: In addition to showing vehicle speed, the speedometer needle flashes when a low fuel condition exists.

NOTE: Use the “Mode Button” shown below to toggle between Instrument Cluster display screens.

1

1.

Gear Indicator - This indicator displays gear shifter position.

H = High Gear

L = Low Gear

N = Neutral

R = Reverse Gear

P = Park

2.

AWD Indicator - This indicator illuminates when the

AWD switch is in the AWD position.

3.

Engine Hour Display Indicator

4.

Service Interval / Diagnostic Mode Indicator

5.

Low Battery and Over Voltage - This warning usually indicates that the vehicle is operating at an RPM too low to keep the battery charged. It may also occur when the engine is at idle and high electrical load (lights, cooling fan, accessories) is applied. Drive at a higher RPM or recharge the battery to clear the warning.

6.

Odometer/Tachometer/Tripmeter/ Hour Meter/Clock

7.

Fuel Gauge - The segments of the fuel gauge show the level of fuel in the fuel tank. When the last segment clears, a low fuel warning is activated. All segments will flash, FUEL will display in the LCD, and the speedometer needle will blink. Refuel immediately.

10

8.

Check Engine Warning Indicator - This indicator serves two purposes. The word HOT displays if the engine overheats. It also appears if an EFI-related fault occurs. Do not operate the vehicle if this warning appears. Serious engine damage could result.

10.5

ELECTRICAL

Standard Display Modes

Use the mode button (location shown in the illustration on page

10.5) to toggle through the mode options.

Odometer Mode

The odometer records the miles or kilometers traveled by the vehicle.

Trip Meter Mode

The trip meter records the miles or kilometers traveled by the vehicle on each trip if it's reset before each trip. To reset the trip meter, select the trip meter mode. Press and hold the mode button until the display reads 0.

NOTE: In the Rider Information Display, the trip meter display contains a decimal point, but the odometer displays without a decimal point.

Hour Meter Mode

This mode logs the total hours the engine has been in operation.

Tachometer Mode

The engine RPM is displayed digitally.

NOTE: Small fluctuations in the RPM from day to day may be normal because of changes in humidity, temperature and elevation.

Clock Mode

The clock displays time in a 12-hour format. To reset the clock, see “Clock Screen” in the “Diagnostic Display Mode” section.

Clock Screen

To reset the clock:

1.

Enter the diagnostic mode.

2.

Toggle to the clock screen.

3.

Press and hold the mode button until the hour display flashes. Release the button.

4.

Press and release the mode button once to advance the setting by one hour. Press and hold the mode button to advance the hours quickly.

5.

When the desired hour is displayed, wait approximately four seconds, until the minute display flashes.

6.

When the display stops flashing, the mode has been set.

7.

Use the same procedure to reset the minutes.

Battery Voltage Screen

View this screen to check battery voltage level.

Diagnostic Display Mode

The wrench icon will display when the gauge is in the diagnostic mode. To exit the diagnostic mode, turn the key switch off and on. Any movement of the tires will also cause the gauge to exit the diagnostic mode.

To enter the diagnostics mode:

1.

Turn the key switch off and wait 10 seconds.

2.

Lock the parking brake.

3.

Place the transmission in neutral.

4.

Hold the mode button and turn the key switch to the “ON” position. Release the mode button as soon as the display is activated.

5.

Use the mode button to toggle through the diagnostic screens.

Tachometer Screen

View the tachometer to check engine speed.

10.6

AWD Diagnostic Screen

The gauge indicates whether or not current is flowing through the AWD coil.

ELECTRICAL

Gear Circuit Diagnostic Screen

This screen displays the resistance value (in ohms) being read at the gear switch input of the gauge.

NOTE: A 10 - 20% variance from these readings is within normal parameters.

10

10.7

ELECTRICAL

Programmable Service Interval

When the hours of engine operation equal the programmed service interval setting, the wrench icon will flash for 5 seconds each time the engine is started. When this feature is enabled, it provides a convenient reminder to perform routine maintenance.

NOTE: If you scroll past the intended number, press and hold the button until the hours cycle back to zero.

5.

When the desired setting is displayed, wait until the wrench icon stops flashing. The new service interval is now programmed.

NOTE: The service interval is programmed to 50 hours at the factory.

To enable or disable the service interval:

1.


2.

Toggle to the service interval screen.

3.

Press and hold the mode button for about seven (7) seconds, until either ON or OFF appears in the Rider Information

Display, depending on your preference.

Miles / Kilometers Toggle

The display in the tripmeter and odometer can be changed to display either standard or metric units of measurement.

1.


2.

Toggle to the screen that displays either kilometers (KM) or miles (MP).

3.

Press and hold the mode button until the letters flash, then press and release the button once. When the display stops flashing, the mode has been set.

To reset the service interval:

1.


2.

Toggle to the service interval screen.

3.

Press and hold the mode button for 2-3 seconds, until the wrench icon flashes. Release the button.

4.

Press and release the mode button once to advance the setting by one hour. Press and hold the mode button to advance the hours quickly.

Viewing Diagnostic Codes

Use the following procedure to view diagnostic blink codes

(failure codes) from the EFI module:

See “Diagnostic “Blink Codes” 4.32

1.

Engage the parking brake.

2.

Stop the engine.

10.8

ELECTRICAL

3.

Turn the key switch to the ON position.

4.

Turn the key switch off and on three times in less than five seconds, then leave the switch on. The word “Wait” will appear on the screen along with a flashing “Check Engine” light.

2.

Push the instrument cluster out from the back side of the dash while securely holding the dash and rubber mount.

Push Instrument

Cluster Outward

Dash Panel

Rubber Mount

5.

Any blink code numbers stored in the EFI module will display, one at a time, on the screen.

Example below shows a Blink Code of “42”.

Instrument Cluster

Bezel

NOTE: Do not remove the rubber mount from the dash panel. Only remove the rubber mount if necessary. The bezel is a snap-on assembly and is a serviceable part.

Instrument Cluster Installation

1.

Spray a soap and water mixture onto the outer surface area of the instrument cluster. This will help the instrument cluster slide into the rubber mount more easily.

6.

The number “61” and/or the word “End” displays after all codes have been transmitted.

Instrument Cluster Removal

NOTE: Do not allow alcohol or petroleum products to come in contact with the instrument cluster lens.

1.

Disconnect the wire harness connectors from the back side of the instrument cluster.

2.

Be sure the rubber mount inside the dash is fully installed and that the indexing key on the rubber mount is lined up with the keyway in the dash.

3.

Hold the dash securely and insert the instrument cluster into the dash. Twist the instrument cluster gently in a clockwise motion to properly seat the instrument cluster into the rubber mount. Apply pressure on the bezel while pressing down on the instrument cluster.

10.9

10

ELECTRICAL

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TROUBLESHOOTING TESTS

TEST 1 - No All Wheel Drive

34!24 (%2%

30%%$

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/+

.

#(%#+

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)F !7$ ICON COMES ON INSTRUMENT

CLUSTER IS /+ 0ROCEED TO MECHANICAL TESTS

OUTLINEDIN#HAPTER #HECK THE !7$ ICON

ON INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TO VERIFY ITS OPERATION

4HE !7$ SWITCH IS DIRECTLY POWERED BY

SWITCHED VOLTS ORANGEWHITE 4HE GEAR

SWITCH ONLY INTERFACES WITH THE INSTRUMENT

CLUSTER 4O ENABLE !7$ THE CLUSTER MUST BE

DISPLAYING LOW HIGH OR REVERSE GEAR

9

+%9 37)4#( /.

42!.3-)33)/. ).

'%!2

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9

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9

.OTE

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THE BATTERY OR OTHER $# POWER SOURCE

BACKWARDS WILL FAIL THE !7$ CONTROL AND

THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER IF THE KEY SWITCH

AND THE !7$ SWITCH ARE TURNED ON

,%!6% !7$

37)4#( /.

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10.10

ELECTRICAL

TEST 2 - No Display

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TEST 3 - Vehicle Speed Sensor

6%()#,%30%%$ 3%.3/2

4OOLS 2EQUIRED

' 3TATIC 4IMING ,IGHT (ARNESS 0.

' (ALL 3ENSOR 0ROBE (ARNESS 0.

OREQUIVALENT JUMPER WIRES

7

"RN

4O TEST WHEEL SPEED SENSOR

$ISCONNECT 0IN CONNECTOR FROM SPEEDOMETER

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CONNECTOR AS SHOWN AT RIGHT USING THE (ALL 3ENSOR

0ROBE (ARNESS 0. OR JUMPER LEADS

6

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ARE GOOD AND VOLT BATTERY IS IN GOOD CONDITION

3TATIC 4IMING ,IGHT (ARNESS

0.

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"LACK

10

10.11

ELECTRICAL

TEST 4 - No AWD Hub Safety Limiter

127( ,) 7+( $:' ,&21 '2(6 127 &20( 21 25 ,)

9'& ,6 127 5(*,67(5,1* $1' $:' ,6 (1*$*,1*

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10.12

ELECTRICAL

TEST 5 - Fuel Gauge Display Not Working

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TEST 6 - Gear Indicator Not Working (Transmission Switch)

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10

10.13

ELECTRICAL

ALL WHEEL DRIVE COIL


• When the AWD switch is “ON”, 12 VDC power is present at the hub coil.

• If the criteria is met, the instrument cluster provides a ground path at pin #16. When this occurs the AWD icon should display in the instrument cluster.

• The AWD system must be grounded to operate.

Diagnosing System Failures

• Verify the AWD switch is functional and that a minimum of 11 volts is present at the hub coil.

• Verify the AWD hub coil is functional. Test the AWD hub coil using an ohm meter. See specifications below:

GEAR POSITION INDICATOR SWITCH

Test Diagram

HIGH

LOW

NEU

REV

PARK

A

X

Continuity Table

B D

X X

X

C

X

X

X

X

E

X

F

X

NOTE: See “Instrument Cluster Troubleshooting” for additional switch circuit information.

7HVW5HVLVWDQFH

5HDGLQJVVKRXOGEH

*<WR%1:+a2KPV

*<WR*URXQG1R&RQQHFWLRQ

AWD Hub Coil Resistance:

24

Ω

± 5%

• Verify the wiring harness, wiring, connectors, connector pins and grounds are undamaged, clean and connect properly.

• Verify continuity of wire connections with a known good volt/ohm meter.

IMPORTANT: Verify all wires and wiring connections have been tested properly with a known good volt/ ohm meter before suspecting a component failure.

80% of all electrical issues are caused by bad/failed connections and grounds.

SPEED SENSOR

Location / Testing

The speed sensor is located in the transmission transfer case cover and can be accessed through the rear LH wheel well area.

To test the Speed Sensor, refer to “TEST 3” under

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TROUBLESHOOTING TESTS.

Speed Sensor

10.14

ELECTRICAL

HEAD LIGHTS

Headlight Adjustment

The headlight beam is adjustable.

1.

Place the vehicle on a level surface with the headlight approximately 25 ft. (7.6 m) from a wall.

6.

Adjust the beam to desired position. Repeat the procedure to adjust the other headlight.

WARNING

Due to the nature of light utility vehicles and where they are operated, headlight lenses become dirty. Frequent washing is necessary to maintain lighting quality. Riding with poor lighting can result in severe injury or death.

Headlamp Bulb Replacement

1.

Disconnect the headlamp bulb from the wiring harness. Be sure to pull on the connector, not on the wiring.

2.

Turn the lamp counterclockwise to remove it.

2.

Measure the distance from the floor to the center of the headlight and make a mark on the wall at the same height.

3.

With the machine in Park, start the engine and turn the headlight switch to on.

4.

The most intense part of the headlight beam should be aimed 8 in. (20 cm) below the mark placed on the wall in

Step 2.

NOTE: Rider weight must be included in the seat while performing this procedure.

5.

Adjust the beam to the desired position by loosening the adjustment screw (A) and moving the lamp to the appropriate height.

3.

Insert new bulb. Reinstall the harness assembly into the headlight assembly.

NOTE: Make sure the tab on the lamp locates properly in the housing.

A

10

10.15

ELECTRICAL

Headlamp Housing Removal

1.

Disconnect the headlamp from the wiring harness. Be sure to pull on the connector, not on the wiring.

2.

Remove the O-rings (A) from the headlamp brackets on both sides of the headlamp.

3.

Remove the headlamp from the front bumper.

A

TAIL / BRAKE / WORK LIGHTS

Bulb Replacement

Before replacing the bulb, use a digital multi-meter to test the harness to ensure the lamp is receiving 12 volts and that a ground path is present.

If a tail light, brake light, or work light does not work the bulb may need to be replaced.

1.

Remove bulb by turning the rubber base 1/4 turn and pulling the bulb out. Replace it with recommended bulb.

Apply Dielectric Grease (PN 2871329).

2.

Test the tail light, brake light, and work light to verify it is working properly.

A

Work

Light

Tail / Brake

Light

Headlamp Housing Installation

1.

To install the headlamp housing back into the front bumper.

2.

Secure the headlamp housing with the rubber O-rings (A) on both sides of the headlamp.

3.

Reconnect wire harness or re-insert bulb if previously removed.

4.

Adjust headlights using the “Headlight Adjustment” procedure in this section.

10.16

COOLING SYSTEM SCHEMATIC

Cooling System Break-Out Diagram

ELECTRICAL

10.17

10

ELECTRICAL

Fan Control Circuit Operation / Testing

Power is supplied to the fan via the Orange/Black wire when the relay is ON. The ground path for the fan motor is through the

Brown harness wire. Refer to “RELAYS” later in this chapter for more information on fan functions.

CAUTION

Keep hands away from fan blades during operation. Serious personal injury could result.

NOTE: The fan may not function or operation may be delayed if coolant level is low or if air is trapped in the cooling system. Be sure cooling system is full and purged of air. Refer to Maintenance Chapter 2 for cooling system information.

Fan Control Circuit Bypass Test

1.

Disconnect harness from coolant temperature sensor on engine cylinder head.

2.

With the transmission in Park, turn the ignition key “ON”.

The fan should start running.

3.

If the fan does not run or runs slowly, check the fan motor wiring, ground, motor condition and mechanical relay for proper operation. Repair or replace as necessary. If the fan runs with the sensor harness disconnected, but will not turn on when the engine is hot, check the coolant temperature sensor and connector terminals.

Coolant Temperature Sensor

The coolant temperature sensor can be tested using an ohmmeter or voltmeter.

1.

With the engine and temperature sensor at room temperature (68

°

F = 20

°

C), disconnect the harness connector.

2.

With the meter in the ohms mode, place the meter leads onto the sensor contacts.

3.

Use the table Temperature / Resistance table to determine if the sensor needs to be replaced.

T EMPERATURE

°

F (

°

C)

68

°

F (20

°

C)

212

°

F (100

°

C)

R ESISTANCE

2.5 k

Ω ±

6%

0.186

Ω ±

2%

NOTE: If the coolant temperature sensor or circuit malfunctions the radiator fan will default to 'ON'.

10.18

EFI DIAGNOSTICS

EFI Component Testing

All EFI component information and diagnostic testing procedures are located in Chapter 4 .

Refer to Chapter 4 “Electronic Fuel Injection System (EFI)” when diagnosing an EFI system or component.

FUEL SENDER

Testing

1.

Drain the fuel from the fuel tank.

2.

Carefully remove the fuel pump assembly from the fuel tank (see chapter 4).

3.

Attach an ohm meter to the fuel sender harness Violet/

White wire (B) and Brown wire (C).

Connection

Full

Full: 90 Ω ± 5%

Half: 57

Ω ±

5%

Empty: 5 Ω ± 5%

Empty

4.

Allow the sender float to sit in the empty position and compare to specification.

Fuel Sender - Empty: 5

Ω ± 5%

5.

Slowly lift the sender float to the full position and compare to specification.

Fuel Sender - Full:

90 Ω ± 5%

6.

If the readings are out of specification, or if the reading is erratic or LCD display “sticks”, check the following before replacing the fuel pump assembly:

• Loose float

• Float contact with tank

• Bent float rod

If none of the conditions exist, the fuel sender assembly is faulty.

Replace the fuel pump assembly (see chapter 4).

ELECTRICAL

RELAYS

Operation

Located in the fuse box under the dash, the relays assist with component operation like the fan, fuel pump, and EFI system.

The fan relay, controlled by the ECU and Temp Sensor, operates the fan.

The EFI relay, controlled by the ECU, turns on power for components such as the fuel pump, injectors, and ignition coils.

FAN RELAY

C

OLOR

F

UNCTION

Red / White

Orange / Black

Yellow / Black

Red

Key-On battery power supply, switched on by key switch, enables power to relay.

Fused 20-Amp power, switched by relay, provides power to Fan Motor.

ECU input to connect relay Fused 20-Amp power to Fan Motor output.

Fused 20-Amp, constant battery power IN supply for EFI component operation.

C OLOR

Orange

Red / White

Red / Black

Gray / White

EFI RELAY

F UNCTION

Fused 15-amp, constant battery power IN supply for EFI component operation.

Key-On battery power supply, switched on by key switch, enables power to relay.

EFI power output. Switched by relay when

ECU sends a signal on the GRY/W wire, closing the relay. Supplies 15-amp power for ECU-controlled operation of EFI components.

ECU input to enable relay. The ECU supplies a ground which closes the relay, supplying power to run the fuel pump, injectors, etc.

FUSE BOX LAYOUT

Located under the dash

10

10.19

ELECTRICAL

FUSES / CIRCUIT BREAKER

Operation

Located in the fuse box under the dash, the fuse panel provides current protection for components such as the Instrument Cluster,

ECU, EFI system, Chassis Power and Accessories.

A separate 20-amp circuit breaker protects the fan motor circuit (see wire diagram for details).

10.20

ELECTRICAL

CHARGING SYSTEM

RPM

2500

Alternator Output

AMPS

20

VOLTS

13.2 Vdc

Current Draw - Key Off

CAUTION

Do not connect or disconnect the battery cable or ammeter with the engine running. Damage will occur to electrical components.

Connect an ammeter in series with the negative battery cable.

Check for current draw with the key off. If the draw is excessive, loads should be disconnected from the system one by one until the draw is eliminated. Check component wiring as well as the component for partial shorts to ground to eliminate the draw.

Charging System “Break Even” Test

CAUTION

Do not allow the battery cables to become disconnected with the engine running. Follow the steps below as outlined to reduce the chance of damage to electrical components.

The “break even” point of the charging system is the point at which the alternator overcomes all system loads (lights, etc.) and begins to charge the battery. Depending on battery condition and system load, the break even point may vary slightly. The battery should be fully charged before performing this test.

Current Draw Inspection

Key Off

30 Amp

Current Draw - Key Off:

Maximum of .01 DCA (10 mA)

WARNING

Never start the engine with an ammeter connected in series. Damage to the meter or meter fuse will result.

Do not run test for extended period of time.

Do not run test with high amperage accessories.

1.

Connect a tachometer to the engine.

2.

Using an inductive amperage metering device, (set to DC amps) connect to the negative battery cable.

3.

With engine off and the key, kill switch, and lights in the

ON position, the ammeter should read negative amps

(battery discharge). Reverse meter lead if a positive reading is indicated.

4.

Shift transmission into neutral with the park brake on and start the engine. With the engine running at idle, observe meter readings.

5.

Increase engine RPM while observing ammeter and tachometer.

6.

Note RPM at which the battery starts to charge (ammeter indication is positive).

10

7.

With lights and other electrical loads off, the “break even” point should occur at approximately 1500 RPM or lower.

8.

With the engine running, turn the lights on and engage parking brake lock to keep brake light on.

9.

Repeat test, observing ammeter and tachometer. With lights on, charging should occur at or below 2000 RPM.

10.21

ELECTRICAL

Charging System Alternator Tests

Three tests can be performed using a multi-meter to determine the condition of the stator (alternator).

Y1

Y2

Y3

TEST 1: Resistance Value of Each Stator Leg

1.

Measure the resistance value of each of the three stator legs: Y1 to Y2, Y1 to Y3, and Y2 to Y3.

Each test should measure: 0.19

Ω

± 15%

Test

Battery Charge Coil

Battery Charge Coil

Battery Charge Coil

Connect Meter

Leads To:

Ohms Reading

Y1 to Y2

Y1 to Y3

Y2 to Y3

0.19

Ω

± 15%

0.19

Ω

± 15%

0.19

Ω

± 15%

NOTE: If there are any significant variations in ohm readings between the three legs it is an indication that one of the three stator legs maybe weak or failed.

TEST 2: Resistance Value of Each Stator Leg to Ground

1.

Measure the resistance value of each of the stator legs to ground: Y1 to Ground, Y2 to Ground, Y3 to Ground.

Each test should measure: Open Line (OL)

TEST 3: Measure AC Voltage Output of Each Stator Leg at

Charging RPM

1.

Set the selector dial to measure AC Voltage.

2.

Start the engine and let it idle.

3.

While holding the engine at a specified RPM, separately measure the voltage across each ‘leg’ of the stator by connecting the meter leads to the wires leading from the alternator (Y1 to Y2, Y1 to Y3, Y2 to Y3).

4.

Refer to the following table for approximate AC Voltage readings according to RPM. Test each leg at the specified

RPM in the table.

Example: The alternator current output reading should be approximately 18 VAC at 1300 RPM between each ‘leg’ .

NOTE: If one or more of the stator leg output AC voltage varies significantly from the specified value, the stator may need to be replaced.

RPM Reading

1300

3000

5000

AC Voltage (VAC) Reading

18 VAC ± 25 %

42 VAC ± 25 %

64 VAC ± 25 %

Test

Battery Charge Coil

Connect Meter

Leads To:

Ohms Reading

Y1, Y2, or Y3 to Ground

Open Line

(Infinity)

NOTE: Any measurement other than Infinity (open) will indicate a failed or shorted stator leg.

10.22

ELECTRICAL

Charging System Testing Flow Chart

Whenever charging system problems are suspected, proceed with the following system check after verifying that all wires are in good condition, connected and not exposed or pinched.:

Using a multitester set on D.C. volts, measure the battery open circuit voltage (See earlier test). It should be 12.4 volts or more.

Is it?

Yes

No

Remove the battery and properly service. Reinstall the fully charged battery or a fully charged shop battery.

Meter Setting: DC Volts

With the transmission in Park, start the engine and increase RPM to between 3000 and 4000. Read battery voltage with the multitester. Readings should increase to between 13.0 and 14.6 V D.C.Are they?

No

Meter Setting: DC Amps

Perform system “Break Even Amperage” test outlined in this chapter.

Does charging occur as specified?

No

Yes

Yes

Check Key off Current Draw.

Check for owner modification, and discuss operating habits. The battery will continually discharge if operated below the “Break Even” RPM. Continued problems would call for battery inspection.

Ohm stator wires, if bad replace stator, if good, continue with alternator output test.

Meter Setting: AC Volts

Disconnect the Yellow wires from the regulator / rectifier. Using a multitester, perform an Alternator

Output test. See test procedure on Page 10.22.

Does output meet specification?

Yes

Meter Setting: DC Volts

Reconnect the alternator wires. Note: Red wire must be connected to harness. Battery voltage must be present on red wire terminal on harness side of voltage regulator connector.

Is voltage present?

Yes

No

No

Inspect the wiring harness between the panel and the stator for damage. If no damage is found, remove the recoil and flywheel.

Inspect the flywheel magnets, stator coils and stator wires for damage.

Repair or replace any damaged components.

Check stator, regulator, ground, battery and battery connections. Also check wire connections and wire condition.

Repair or replace faulty wiring or components.

10

If all of the previous tests indicate a good condition, but the charging voltage does not rise above battery voltage at the connector or wire harness, replace the voltage regulator.

10.23

ELECTRICAL

BATTERY SERVICE

Battery Identification

IMPORTANT: Identify what type of battery you have installed in your vehicle. Different types of batteries require different service procedures. Proper servicing and upkeep of your battery is very important for maintaining long battery life.

Your vehicle may have a Conventional Battery or a Sealed Low

Maintenance Battery. To identify which type of battery your vehicle has, refer to the illustration below and follow the correct service and charging procedures that follow in the manual.

CONVENTIONAL BATTERY

Removable

Caps

Top View

Electrolyte Level

Indicator

CONVENTIONAL BATTERY

Battery Activation

WARNING

Battery electrolyte is poisonous. It contains sulfuric acid. Serious burns can result from contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote:

External: Flush with water.

Internal: Drink large quantities of water or milk.

Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.

Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get prompt medical attention.

Batteries produce explosive gases. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes etc. away. Ventilate when charging or using in an enclosed space.

Always shield eyes when working near batteries.

KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Side View

SEALED

LOW MAINTENANCE BATTERY

No Caps

(Non-removable sealed Top)

Top View

Polaris Sticker

Side View

WARNING

The gases given off by a battery are explosive.

Any spark or open flame near a battery can cause an explosion which will spray battery acid on anyone close to it. Should there be contact with battery acid, wash the affected area with large quantities of cool water and seek immediate medical attention.

To ensure maximum service life and performance from a new battery, perform the following steps. NOTE: Do not service the battery unless it will be put into regular service within 30 days.

After initial service, add only distilled water to the battery.

Never add electrolyte after a battery has been in service.

NOTE: New Battery: Battery must be fully charged before use or battery life will be significantly reduced 10-30% of the battery’s full potential.

To activate a new battery:

1.

Remove vent plug from vent fitting. Remove cell caps.

2.

Fill battery with electrolyte to upper level marks on case.

3.

Set battery aside to allow for acid absorption and stabilization for 30 minutes.

10.24

ELECTRICAL

4.

Add electrolyte to bring level back to upper level mark on case.

NOTE: This is the last time that electrolyte should be added. If the level becomes low after this point, add only distilled water.

5.

Charge battery at 1/10 of its amp/hour rating. Examples: 1/

10 of 9 amp battery = .9 amp; 1/10 of 14 amp battery = 1.4

amp; 1/10 of 18 amp battery = 1.8 amp (recommended charging rates).

6.

Check specific gravity of each cell with a hydrometer to assure each has a reading of 1.270 or higher.

Battery Inspection

Remove the driver’s seat to access the battery.

Battery Removal

1.

Remove the battery holder strap.

2.

Disconnect battery negative (-) (black) cable first, followed by the positive (+) (red) cable.

CAUTION

Whenever removing or reinstalling the battery, disconnect the negative (black) cable first and reinstall the negative cable last!

3.

Remove the battery.

4.

Remove the filler caps and add distilled water as needed to bring each cell to the proper level. Do not overfill.

Refill using only distilled water. Tap water contains minerals which are harmful to a battery.

Inspect the battery fluid level. When the battery fluid nears the lower level, remove the battery and fill with distilled water only to the upper level line.

Maintain between upper and lower level marks

Do not allow cleaning solution or tap water inside the battery. Battery life may be reduced.

5.

Reinstall the battery caps.


1.

Clean battery cables and terminals with a stiff wire brush.

Corrosion can be removed using a solution of one cup water and one tablespoon baking soda. Rinse well with clean water and dry thoroughly.

2.

Route the cables correctly and reinstall battery, attaching positive (+) (red) cable first and then the negative (-) (black) cable. Coat terminals and bolt threads with Nyogel™

Grease (PN 2871329).

3.

Install clear battery vent tube from vehicle to battery vent.

WARNING: Vent tube must be free from obstructions and kinks and securely installed. If not, battery gases could accumulate and cause an explosion. The vent tube should be routed away from frame and body to prevent contact with electrolyte. Avoid skin contact with electrolyte, as severe burns could result. If electrolyte contacts the vehicle frame, corrosion will occur.

4.

Reinstall the holder strap.

10

Conventional Battery Testing

Whenever a service complaint is related to either the starting or charging systems, the battery should be checked first.

Following are three tests which can easily be made on a battery to determine its condition: OCV Test, Specific Gravity Test and

Load Test.

10.25

ELECTRICAL

OCV - Open Circuit Voltage Test

Battery voltage should be checked with a digital multitester.

Readings of 12.6 volts or less require further battery testing and charging. See the following charts and Load Test.

NOTE: Lead-acid batteries should be kept at or near a full charge as possible. Electrolyte level should be kept between the low and full marks. If the battery is stored or used in a partially charged condition, or with low electrolyte levels, hard crystal sulfation will form on the plates, reducing the efficiency and service life of the battery.

OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE

State of Charge

100% Charged

Conventional

Lead-Acid

12.60 V

YuMicron™

Type

12.70 V

75% Charged

50% Charged

25% Charged

12.40 V

12.10 V

12.50 V

12.20 V

0% Charged

11.90 V less than

11.80 V

12.0 V less than

11.9 V

Specific Gravity Test

A tool such as a Battery Hydrometer (PN 2870836) can be used to measure electrolyte strength or specific gravity. As the battery goes through the charge/discharge cycle, the electrolyte goes from a heavy (more acidic) state at full charge to a light

(more water) state when discharged. The hydrometer can measure state of charge and differences between cells in a multicell battery. Readings of 1.270 or greater should be observed in a fully charged battery. Differences of more than .025 between the lowest and highest cell readings indicate a need to replace the battery.

State of Charge*

100% Charged

SPECIFIC GRAVITY

Conventional

Lead-Acid

1.265

YuMicron™

1.275

Type

75% Charged

50% Charged

1.210

1.160

1.225

1.175

25% Charged

0% Charged

1.120

less than 1.100

1.135

less than 1.115

* At 80° F

NOTE : Subtract .01 from the specific gravity reading at 40° F.

Load Test

CAUTION

To prevent shock or component damage, remove spark plug high tension leads and connect securely to engine ground before proceeding.

NOTE: This test can only be performed on machines with electric starters. This test cannot be performed with an engine or starting system that is not working properly.

A battery may indicate a full charge condition in the OCV test and the specific gravity test, but still may not have the storage capacity necessary to properly function in the electrical system.

For this reason, a battery capacity or load test should be conducted whenever poor battery performance is encountered.

To perform this test, hook a multitester to the battery in the same manner as was done in the OCV test. The reading should be 12.6

volts or greater. Engage the starter and observe the battery voltage while cranking the engine. Continue the test for 15 seconds. During cranking the observed voltage should not drop below 9.5 volts. If the beginning voltage is 12.6 volts or higher and the cranking voltage drops below 9.5 volts during the test, replace the battery.

Battery Hydrometer (PN 2870836)

Detail A

1.10

1.15

1.20

1.25

1.30

10.26

ELECTRICAL

Off Season Storage

To prevent battery damage during extended periods of non-use, the following basic battery maintenance items must be performed:

• Remove the battery from the vehicle and wash the case and battery tray with a mild solution of baking soda and water. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after cleaning.

NOTE: Do not get any of the baking soda into the battery or the acid will be neutralized.

• Using a wire brush, remove any corrosion from the cables and terminals.

• Make sure that the electrolyte is at the proper level. Add distilled water if necessary.

• Charge at a rate no greater than 1/10 of the battery’s amp/hr capacity until the electrolyte’s specific gravity reaches 1.270 or greater.

• Store the battery either in the machine with the cables disconnected, or store in a cool place.

NOTE: Recharge to full capacity every 30 to 60 days during a non-use period. If the battery is stored during the winter months, electrolyte will freeze at higher temperatures as the battery discharges. The chart below indicates freezing points by specific gravity.

1.050

Electrolyte Freezing Points

Specific Gravity of Electrolyte

1.265

1.225

1.200

1.150

1.100

-75° F

-35° F

-17° F

+5° F

Freezing Point

+18° F

+27° F

Charging Procedure (Conventional)

1.

Remove the battery to prevent damage from leaking or spilled acid during charging.

2.

Charge the battery with a charging output no larger than

1/10 of the battery’s amp/hr rating. Charge as needed to raise the specific gravity to 1.270 or greater.

3.

Install battery in vehicle with positive terminal toward the front. Coat threads of battery bolt with a corrosion resistant dielectric grease.

Dielectric Grease

(PN 2871329)

4.

Connect battery cables.

WARNING

To avoid the possibility of explosion, connect positive (+) cable first and negative (-) cable last.

5.

After connecting the battery cables, install the cover on the battery and attach the hold down strap.

6.

Install clear battery vent tube from vehicle to battery vent.

WARNING: Vent tube must be free from obstructions and kinks and securely installed. If not, battery gases could accumulate and cause an explosion. Vent should be routed away from frame and body to prevent contact with electrolyte. Avoid skin contact with electrolyte, as severe burns could result. If electrolyte contacts the vehicle frame, corrosion will occur.

7.

Route cables so they are tucked away in front and behind battery.

10

10.27

ELECTRICAL

LOW MAINTENANCE BATTERY

General Battery Information

NOTE: All Low Maintenance batteries are fully charged and tested at the factory before installation.

Expected shelf life varies upon storage conditions.

As a general rule before placing the battery into service, check the battery condition and charge accordingly.

1.

Check the date label on the side of the battery to calculate when to check voltage. The battery should be checked every 3 months.

2.

Check the voltage with a voltmeter or multimeter. A fully charged battery should be 12.8 V or higher.

3.

If the voltage is below 12.8 V, the battery will need to be recharged.

To service a Low Maintenance battery:

1.

Remove battery from the vehicle.

2.

Test battery with a voltage meter or load tester to determine battery condition. This will determine the length of time required to charge the battery to full capacity. Refer to capacity table.

3.

Charge battery using a variable rate charger.

Battery Removal

1.

Remove the driver’s seat to access the battery and remove battery holder strap.

2.

Disconnect battery negative (-) (black) cable first, followed by the positive (+) (red) cable.

Low Maintenance batteries are permanently sealed at the time of manufacture. The use of lead-calcium and AGM technology instead of lead-antimony allows the battery acid to be fully absorbed. For this reason, a Low Maintenance battery case is dark and the cell caps are not removable, since there is no need to check electrolyte level.

NOTE: New Batteries: Batteries must be fully charged before use or battery life will be reduced by

10-30% of full potential. Charge battery for 3-5 hours at a current equivalent of 1/10 of the battery's rated amp/hour capacity. Do not use the alternator to charge a new battery.

NEVER attempt to add electrolyte or water to a Low

Maintenance battery. Doing so will damage the case and shorten the life of the battery.

CAUTION

Whenever removing or reinstalling the battery, disconnect the negative (black) cable first and reinstall the negative cable last!

3.

Remove the battery.


1.

Clean battery cables and terminals with a stiff wire brush.

Corrosion can be removed using a solution of one cup water and one tablespoon baking soda. Rinse well with clean water and dry thoroughly.

2.

Route the cables correctly and reinstall battery, attaching positive (+) (red) cable first and then the negative (-) (black) cable. Coat terminals and bolt threads with Nyogel™

Grease (PN 2871329).

3.

Reinstall the holder strap.

10.28

ELECTRICAL

Battery Testing

Whenever a service complaint is related to either the starting or charging systems, the battery should be checked first.

Following are two tests which can easily be made on a Sealed

Low Maintenance battery to determine its condition: OCV Test and a Load Test.

Load Test

OCV - Open Circuit Voltage Test

Battery voltage should be checked with a digital multitester.

Readings of 12.8 volts or less require further battery testing and charging. See charts and Load Test.

NOTE: Lead-acid batteries should be kept at or near a full charge as possible. If the battery is stored or used in a partially charged condition, or with low electrolyte levels, hard crystal sulfation will form on the plates, reducing the efficiency and service life of the battery.

NOTE: Use a voltmeter or multimeter to test batter voltage.

OPEN CIRCUIT VOLTAGE

State of Charge

Maintenance

Free

YuMicron ™

Type

100%

75% Charged

13.0 V

12.80 V

12.70 V

12.50 V

50% Charged

25% Charged

12.50 V

12.20 V

12.20 V

12.0 V

0% Charged less than 12.0 V less than 11.9 V

* At 80° F

NOTE: Subtract .01 from the specific gravity reading at 40° F.

CAUTION

To prevent shock or component damage, remove spark plug high tension leads and connect securely to engine ground before proceeding.

NOTE: This test can only be performed on machines with electric starters. This test cannot be performed with an engine or starting system that is not working properly.

A battery may indicate a full charge condition in the OCV test and the specific gravity test, but still may not have the storage capacity necessary to properly function in the electrical system.

For this reason, a battery capacity or load test should be conducted whenever poor battery performance is encountered.

To perform this test, hook a multitester to the battery in the same manner as was done in the OCV test. The reading should be 12.6

volts or greater. Engage the starter and observe the battery voltage while cranking the engine. Continue the test for 15 seconds. During cranking the observed voltage should not drop below 9.5 volts. If the beginning voltage is 12.6 volts or higher and the cranking voltage drops below 9.5 volts during the test, replace the battery.

Off-Season Storage

To prevent battery damage during extended periods of non-use, the following basic battery maintenance items must be performed:

• Remove the battery from the machine and wash the case and battery tray with a mild solution of baking soda and water. Rinse thoroughly with fresh water after cleaning.

• Using a wire brush, remove any corrosion from the cables and terminals.

• Charge at a rate no greater than 1/10 of the battery’s amp/hr capacity.

10

• Store the battery either in the machine with the cables disconnected, or store in a cool place.

NOTE: Stored batteries lose their charge at the rate of 1% per day. Recharge to full capacity every 30 to

60 days during a non-use period. If the battery is stored during the winter months, electrolyte will freeze at higher temperatures as the battery discharges.

10.29

ELECTRICAL

Charging Procedure (Low Maintenance)

If battery voltage is 12.8 V or less, the battery may need recharging. When using an automatic charger, refer to the charger manufacturer’s instructions for recharging. When using a constant current charger, use the following guidelines for recharging.

NOTE: Always verify battery condition before and

1-2 hours after the end of charging.

WARNING

An overheated battery could explode, causing severe injury or death. Always watch charging times carefully. Stop charging if the battery becomes very warm to the touch.

Allow it to cool before resuming charging.

Battery Charging Reference Table

State of

Charge

Voltage Action Charge Time

100% 12.8-13 V

None, check voltage at 3 mos. after manufacture date

None Required

75-100% 12.5-12.8 V

May need slight charge

50-75% 12.0-12.5 V Needs Charge

3-6 hours

25-50%

0-25%

11.5-12.0 V Needs Charge

11.5 V or less Needs Charge

5-11 hours

At least 13 hours, verify state of charge

At least 20 hours

WARNING

To avoid the possibility of sparks and explosion, connect positive (red) cable first and negative

(black) cable last.

STARTING SYSTEM

Troubleshooting

Starter Motor Does Not Run

• Battery discharged - Low specific gravity

• Loose or faulty battery cables or corroded connections

(see Voltage Drop Tests)

• Related wiring loose, disconnected, or corroded

• Poor ground connections at battery cable, starter motor or starter solenoid (see Voltage Drop Tests)

• Faulty key switch

• Faulty kill switch

• Faulty Start Diode. Use a digital multi-meter to test diode operation. Unplug the diode from the harness under the dash and measure between the Orange and

Orange/Green diode connections. Continuity should flow one direction only.

• Faulty starter solenoid or starter motor

• Engine problem - seized or binding (can engine be rotated easily)

Starter Motor Turns Over Slowly

• Battery discharged - low specific gravity

• Excessive circuit resistance - poor connections (see

Voltage Drop Test)

• Engine problem - seized or binding (can engine be rotated easily)

• Faulty or worn brushes in starter motor

Starter Motor Turns - Engine Does Not Rotate

• Faulty starter drive

• Faulty starter drive gears or starter motor gear

• Faulty flywheel gear or loose flywheel

10.30

ELECTRICAL

Voltage Drop Test

The Voltage Drop Test is used to test for bad connections. When performing the test, you are testing the amount of voltage drop through the connection. A poor or corroded connection will appear as a high voltage reading. Voltage shown on the meter when testing connections should not exceed .1 VDC per connection or component.

To perform the test, place the meter on DC volts and place the meter leads across the connection to be tested. Refer to the voltage drop tests on the starter system in this chapter.

NOTE: Note the alignment marks on both ends of the starter motor casing. These marks must align during reassembly.

3.

Remove the front bracket assembly and the rear bracket assembly. Remove the shims from the armature shaft and inspect the O-rings located on the armature housing.

O-Rings

Voltage should not exceed

.1 DC volts per connection

Starter Motor Removal / Disassembly

NOTE: Use electrical contact cleaner to clean starter motor parts. Some solvents may leave a residue or damage internal parts and insulation.

reassembly.

Shims

Brush Inspection / Replacement

1.

Measure resistance between starter input terminal and insulated brushes. The reading should be .3 ohms or less.

Remember to subtract meter lead resistance.

1.

Remove the starter from the engine.

2.

Remove the two bolts, washers, and sealing O-Rings.

Inspect O-Rings and replace if damaged.

10

10.31

ELECTRICAL

2.

Measure resistance between insulated brush and starter housing. Reading should be infinite (OL). Inspect insulation on brush wires for damage and repair or replace as necessary.

Brush Replacement

1.

Remove terminal nut with lock washer, flat washer, large phenolic washer, the small phenolic spacers, and sealing

O-ring. Inspect O-ring and replace if damaged.

3.

Slide positive brush springs to the side, pull brushes out of their guides and remove brush plate. Slide brush end frame off end of starter.

NOTE: The electrical input post must stay with the field coil housing.

4.

Measure resistance between ground brush and brush plate.

Resistance should be .3 ohms or less.

2.

Slide positive brush springs to the side, pull brushes out of their guides and remove brush plate.

CAUTION

Some cleaning solvents may damage the insulation in the starter. Care should be exercised when selecting an appropriate solvent. If the commutator needs cleaning use only electrical contact cleaner.

Armature Testing

1.

Remove armature from starter casing. Note order of shims on drive end for reassembly.

Brush Inspection

1.

Measure length of each carbon brush. Replace brush assembly when worn to 5/16” (8 mm) or less. The brushes must slide freely in their holders.

Brush Length

2.

Inspect surface of commutator. Replace if excessively worn or damaged.

3.

Using a digital multitester, measure the resistance between each of the commutator segments. The reading should be

.3 ohms or less.

Limit 5/16” (8 mm)

10.32

ELECTRICAL

4.

Measure the resistance between each commutator segment and the armature shaft. The reading should be infinite (no continuity).

2.

Install O-ring, two small phenolic spacers, large phenolic washer, flat washer, lock washer, and terminal nut.

3.

While holding brush springs away from brushes, push brushes back and hold in place.

4.

Slide armature into field magnet housing. Release brushes.

5.

Lightly grease the drive roller bearing and reinstall drive end frame on armature. Inspect seal for wear or damage.

Replace drive end cap if necessary.

Roller Bearing

Seal

5.

Check commutator bars for discoloration. Bars discolored in pairs indicate shorted coils, requiring replacement of the starter motor.

6.

Place armature in a growler. Turn growler on and position a hacksaw blade or feeler gauge lengthwise 1/8” (.3 cm) above armature coil laminates. Rotate armature 360

°

. If hacksaw blade is drawn to armature on any pole, the armature is shorted and must be replaced.

CAUTION

Use care when handling starter housing. Do not drop or strike the housing as magnet damage is possible. If magnets are damaged, starter must be replaced.

6.

Be sure wire insulation is in place around positive brush wire and pushed completely into slot on phenolic plate.

7.

Using Dielectric Grease ( PN 2871329 ), lubricate brush end bushing and install shims.

8.

Align brush plate and install cover and screws.

9.

Lightly grease pinion shaft and install pinion, spring stopper, and snap ring.

Starter Reassembly / Installation

1.

Install brush plate to field magnet housing aligning index tab.

Set Bolt Torque: 35-52 in. lbs. (3.9-5.9 Nm)

10. Completely assemble starter motor and torque set bolts to

35 - 52 in. lbs. (3.9 - 5.9 Nm).

11. Install the starter onto the engine case. Hand tighten each of the starter bolts. Torque the bottom bolt first to 9 ft.lbs.

(12 Nm).

Then torque the top bolt to the same specification.

10.33

10

ELECTRICAL

NOTE: It is important to tighten the bottom starter bolt first (circle), as the bottom hole acts as a pilot hole to properly align the starter drive (bendix) with the flywheel. This helps to prevent binding and starter damage.

2.

Remove the retaining ring, thrust washer, spring retainers and clutch return spring. Screw the overrun clutch off the end of the pinion shaft. Remove the old spring and install a new one. Lightly grease the pinion shaft and reinstall the clutch, spring, retainers, end washer and lock ring in the reverse order. Make sure the end washer is positioned properly so that it will hold the lock ring in its groove.

Starter Solenoid Bench Test

Test the start solenoid by powering the solenoid via the 2-wire connection. With the solenoid energized, resistance should read about 0.5

Ω

± 10% between terminal (A) and (B). If resistance measurement is out of specification, replace the starter solenoid.

Starter Drive

If the garter spring is damaged, the overrun clutch may fail to return properly. Use either of the following methods to remove and install a new garter spring:

A

Energize

Here

B

A

H

G

F

D

B

A. Gear Assembly

B. Thrust Washer

C. Busing

D. Retaining Ring

E. Thrust Washer

F. Stopper

G. Cover

H. Spring

C

E

1.

Screw the overrun clutch out to the engaged position on the pinion shaft assembly. Use a small piece of wire with the end bent in a hook and pick the old spring out of its channel. Slide it off the end of the shaft. Slide the new spring over the overrun clutch and into the spring groove.

Make sure the spring is positioned between the shoe alignment pins and the back flange of the anti kick-out shoes.

10.34

Starter Solenoid Operation

To energize the Starter Solenoid the following must occur:

• The brake must be applied to provide a ground path via the Orange / Green wire.

• The key switch must be turned to the “start” position to provide 12V power via the White / Red wire.

• Once the pull-in coil is energized, the solenoid provides a current path for 12V power to reach the starter motor.

Starter Exploded View

ELECTRICAL

*

Indicates

-

Do not reuse.

Replace with new parts.

1. Rubber Ring*

2. Brush Spring

3. Thrust Washer

4. Gear Assembly

5. O-Ring*

6. Brush Complete

7. O-Ring*

8. Thrust Washer

9. Shaft Complete

10. Gear Assembly

11. Through Bolt

12. Cover

13. Stopper

14. Snap Ring

15. Washer

16. Flange Bolt

17. Thrust Washer

18. Flange Bushing

10.35

10

ELECTRICAL

STARTING SYSTEM TESTING FLOW CHART

Condition: Starter fails to turn over the engine.

With the tester on the VDC position, place the tester's black lead on the battery negative and the red lead on the battery positive. Reading should be 12.4 V D. C. or greater.

No

Remove battery and properly service. Install fully charged shop battery to continue test.

Yes

Disconnect 2-wire connector at the solenoid.

Using a multi-meter, connect the black meter lead to the Orange/Green harness wire and the red meter lead to the White/Red harness wire. Apply the brake and turn ignition switch to the “start” position. Meter should read battery voltage.

No

Check for voltage at the chassis 20 Amp fuse and then check for voltage entering the ignition switch. Battery voltage should be present. If battery voltage is present at the ignition switch, but not the solenoid, replace the switch. NOTE: The brake MUST be applied when performing these tests.

Yes

Test the start solenoid by powering the solenoid via the 2-wire connection.

With the solenoid energized, resistance should read about 0.5

Ω

± 10% between the two terminals. If resistance measurement is out of specification, replace the starter solenoid (see “Starter Solenoid Bench Test”) Voltage Drop

Testing

Reconnect the solenoid. Connect the tester black lead to the battery positive and the red lead to the solenoid end of the battery-to-solenoid wire. Turn the ignition key to the “start” position. Reading should be less than .1 V D.C.

No Clean the battery-to-solenoid cable ends or replace the cable.

Yes

Connect the black tester lead to solenoid end of battery-to-solenoid cable. Connect red tester lead to solenoid end of solenoid-to-starter cable. Turn the ignition key to the “start” position. Reading should be less than .1 V D.C.

No

Replace the starter solenoid.

Yes

Connect the black tester lead to the solenoid end of the solenoid-to-starter cable. Connect the red tester lead to the starter end of the same cable.

Turn the ignition key to the “start” position. The reading should be less than .1 V D.C.

Yes

No

If all of these indicate a good condition, yet the starter still fails to turn, the starter must be removed for static testing and inspection.

Clean the solenoid-to-starter cable ends or replace the cable.

10.36

ELECTRICAL BREAKOUT DIAGRAMS

12V Key-On Power Circuit

ELECTRICAL

Starting System Circuit

10.37

10

ELECTRICAL

Instrument Cluster Circuit

Transmission Switch Circuit

10.38

Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit

ELECTRICAL

AWD Circuit

10.39

10

ELECTRICAL

Fuel Gauge Display Circuit

Cooling Fan Circuit

10.40

Charging System Circuit

ELECTRICAL

10.41

10

ELECTRICAL

NOTES

10.42

Polaris 2008 RANGER RZR, 2008 RZR, rzr 800 2008 Service Manual

CHAPTER 1

GENERAL INFORMATION

MODEL INFORMATION

Model Identification

Engine Designation Number

VIN Identification

Engine Serial Number Location

Unit Serial Number (VIN) Location

A

B

B

A

GENERAL SPECIFICATIONS

MODEL: 2008 RANGER RZR

MODEL: 2008 RANGER RZR

VEHICLE INFORMATION

Publication Numbers

Paint Codes

Replacement Keys

SPECIAL TOOLS

MISC. SPECIFICATIONS AND CHARTS

Conversion Table

Standard Torque Specifications

SAE Tap / Drill Sizes

Decimal Equivalents

Metric Tap / Drill Sizes

Glossary of Terms

CHAPTER 2

MAINTENANCE

PERIODIC MAINTENANCE CHART

Periodic Maintenance Overview

Break-In Period

Maintenance Chart Key

Pre-Ride - 25 Hour Maintenance Interval

50 - 300 Hour Maintenance Interval

COMPONENT INSPECTION / SERVICE LOCATIONS

Front and Rear View

RH and LH Side Views

LUBRICANTS / SERVICE PRODUCTS

Polaris Lubricants, Maintenance and Service

Products

MAINTENANCE REFERENCES

GENERAL VEHICLE INSPECTION

AND MAINTENANCE

Pre-Ride / Daily Inspection

Shift Cable Inspection / Adjustment

Frame, Nuts, Bolts, and Fasteners

FUEL SYSTEM AND AIR INTAKE

Fuel System

Fuel Pump / Fuel Filters

Fuel Line

Vent Lines

Throttle Pedal Inspection

Throttle Freeplay Adjustment

Air Filter Service

ENGINE

Engine Oil Level

Engine Oil and Filter Service

Recommended Engine Oil:

Premium 4-Cycle Synthetic OW-40

(PN 2871281) (Quart)

Ambient Temperature Range

-40° F to 120° F

Crankcase Drain Plug Torque:

16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm)

Oil Filter Torque:

Turn by hand until filter gasket contacts sealing surface, then turn an additional 1/2 turn

Oil Filter Wrench:

(PV-43527)

Engine Breather Hose Inspection

Exhaust - Spark Arrestor

Engine and Transmission Mount Locations

Compression and Leakdown Test

TRANSMISSION AND GEARCASES

Transmission / Gearcase Specification Chart

Transmission Specifications

Transmission Lubrication

Specified Lubricant:

AGL Synthetic Gearcase Lubricant

**MODEL: 2008 RANGER RZR**

**MODEL: 2008 RANGER RZR**