Necchi 270 Instruction Manual

270
INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Warning against injuries
and material damages:
Safety instructions
Like any other electrical device, a sewing machine
can cause serious, even life-threatening injuries.To
avoid this, and in order to work safely:
According to legislation, you as the user of an
electrical appliance are responsible for preventing
possible accidents through safety-conscious
behaviour:
• Before initial use of your sewing machine, read
these operating instructions thoroughly.
• Keep the operating instructions in a suitable place
near the machine. When passing the appliance on
to others, always enclose the operating
instructions.
• Keep your work space tidy. An untidy workplace
can lead to accidents.
• Always disconnect the power supply when leaving
the machine unattended. This will prevent the risk
of accidents if the machine is switched on
accidentally.
• Do not wear loose clothing or jewellery,as these
can be caught in the moving parts. You should also
wear a hair net if you have long hair.
• Provide adequate lighting when working!
• Avoid abnormal posture. Remain steady and in a
well-balanced position at all times.
• First pull the power plug before changing the bulb
or performing maintenance work on the machine.
This will prevent possibly life-threatening electric
shocks.
• Be alert! Pay attention to what you are doing.
Always take a rational approach to your work.
Never work with the sewing machine if you are
unable to concentrate or if you are feeling unwell!
• Do not remove the plug from the socket by pulling
on the cable. Always grip the plug and not the
cable when pulling out the power plug.
If accidents occur as a result of handling the machine
with insufficient care, or failure to follow the safety
instructions in this manual, then the manufacturer
cannot accept liability.
• Only use the sewing machine in dry rooms.
Don’t use the machine in wet condition and
location.
Please use for your sewing machine the ZHEJIANG
FOUNDER presser foot, type KD-2902.
Power rating: 220 - 240V ~ , 50Hz
Current rating: 1.0A
Protection Class : II
• In case of any visible damage on the machine, the
foot switch or the power cable: Have the damage
repaired by Customer Service before using the
sewing machine again.
The sound pressure level under normal operating
conditions is 78dB (A).
• Never let children or elderly persons handle the
machine unsupervised because they may not
properly appreciate the possible dangers. Keep
electrical appliances outside the reach of children.
If the supply cord that fixed with foot controller is
damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer or
its service agent or a similar qualified person in order
to avoid a hazard.
• Never use the machine when the ventilation
apertures are blocked. Keep the ventilation
apertures of the machine and the foot switch free
from fluff, dust and waste material.
Never place anything on the foot controller.
Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted
municipal waste, use separate collection facilities.
Contact your local government for information
regarding the collection systems available.
If electrical appliances are disposed of in landfills or
dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the
groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging
your health and well-being.
When replacing old appliances with new once,
the retailer is legally obligated to take
back your old appliance for disposal
at least for free of charge.
• Don’t let children play with sewing machine.
• Never use the machines if the air went are blocked
keep the air wends free form dust, fusel and
leftovers.
• Never place anything on the foot controller.
• This appliance is not intended for use by persons
(including children) with reduced physical, sensory
or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and
knowledge, unless they have been given
supervision or instruction concerning use of the
appliance by a person responsible for their safety.
• Children should be supervised to ensure that they
do not play with the appliance.
-1-
CONTENTS
Name of parts ........................................................................................... 3-4
Accessories ................................................................................................. 5
Before sewing (Power supply and sewing lamp).......................................... 6
Removing extension table ........................................................................... 7
Free-arm sewing.......................................................................................... 7
Winding the bobbin ...................................................................................... 8
Removing bobbin case and bobbin.............................................................. 9
Inserting bobbin into bobbin case ................................................................ 9
Inserting bobbin case into shuttle race....................................................... 10
Threading upper thread & Twin needle threading ...................................... 11
Drawing up the bobbin thread.................................................................... 12
Changing sewing directions ....................................................................... 12
Levelling machine ................................................................................... 13
Adjusting thread tension ............................................................................ 14
Regulating the presser foot pressure ......................................................... 15
Insert “darning plate“.................................................................................. 15
Changing needle ....................................................................................... 16
Fabric-Thread-Needle-table....................................................................... 17
Sewing (pattern selector) and operation table............................................ 18
To start sewing .......................................................................................... 19
How to finish stitches ................................................................................. 20
Straight stitch............................................................................................. 21
Zigzag sewing............................................................................................ 21
Automatic embroidery................................................................................ 21
Overcasting ............................................................................................... 22
Straight and zigzag stretch stitches ........................................................... 22
Blind stitch ............................................................................................ 23-24
Button sewing ............................................................................................ 25
Binding ...................................................................................................... 25
Zipper sewing ............................................................................................ 26
Buttonhole sewing ..................................................................................... 27
Hemming ................................................................................................... 28
Twin needle ............................................................................................... 29
Embroidery ................................................................................................ 29
Quilter........................................................................................................ 30
Seam guide ............................................................................................... 30
Maintenance (Cleaning and oiling) ............................................................ 31
Checking performance problems-Troubleshooting ................................... 32
-2-
NAME OF PARTS (FRONT VIEW)
2
1
3
4
13
12
5
11
10
9
6
7
8
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Thread tension dial
Pattern selector dial
Spool pins
Bobbin winder stopper
Hand wheel
Stitch length dial
Thread guide and needle clamp
Extension table
Shuttle cover
Presser foot
Reverse button
Face cover
Take up lever
-3-
REAR VIEW
1
2
3
4
5
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Bobbin winder spindle
Upper thread guide
Presser foot lever
Thumb screw
Needle plate
-4-
ACCESSORIES
Bobbin
Narrow hem foot
Felt
Zigzag foot
(on machine)
Button foot
Darning plate
Screw driver
Quilting guide
Seam guide
-5-
Buttonhole foot
Zipper foot
Buttonhole cutter
Needle
#11 #14
BEFORE SEWING
Power supply / Power supply plug
Power supply
1. Fit plug into the machine.
2. Insert plug into the main socket.
3. Sewing speed can be varied by the foot
control.
Plug receptacle
machine plug
Speed Controller
CAUTION: When the machine is not being used, when cleaning it or changing its
lamp, disconnect it from the electric outlet.
Sew lamp
Bulb replacement:
1. Open face cover in direction of arrow.
2. Remove bulb by unscrewing it
counter-clockwise.
3. Install a new bulb by screwing it in
clockwise.
4. Use a 15 watt bulb. (max)
-6-
REMOVING EXTENSION TABLE
Hold the left end of the table and pull it
out in direction of the arrow.
FREE-ARM SEWING
1. This sewing machine can be used as
a flat bed machine but easily converts
to a free arm machine by removing
the extension table.
2. Especially useful for sewing sleeves,
pant legs, tubular fabrics etc. more
easily.
3. To sew tubular items just slip the
sleeve or leg of pants on the free arm
as shown on the illustration.
-7-
WINDING THE BOBBIN
1. Release coupling knob.
2. Thread as shown.
3. When bobbin is filled, re-engage
coupling knob.
5 cm thread
Winder spindle
Push bobbin winder spindle in direction of
the arrow. When bobbin winding is
completed, return spindle to its original
position.
When bobbin winding is incorrect, release
the screw of the upper thread guide and
adjust up or down until bobbin the
winding is balanced.
Correct
Screw
-8-
REMOVING BOBBIN CASE AND BOBBIN
Hinged latch
2. Open the hinged latch of the bobbin
case and pull the bobbin case out of
the machine.
1. Raise the needle to its highest
position and open shuttle race cover.
3. Release the latch and the bobbin will fall out
easily.
INSERTING BOBBIN INTO BOBBIN CASE
Slot
5 cm
1. Pull 5 cm of thread from bobbin and
insert it into bobbin case as shown.
2. Guide the end of thread into the slot.
Tension spring
10 cm
3. Pull the thread through the slot and under the
tension spring and draw out about 10 cm of
thread.
-9-
INSERTING BOBBIN CASE INTO SHUTTLE RACE
Finger
Hinged latch
1. Raise the needle to its highest position. Pull the thread to the front, open the latch of
the bobbin case and hold it.
Insert
2. Holding the latch open, place bobbin case onto the center pin in the shuttle and
release latch.
- 10 -
THREADING UPPER THREAD
Pass the thread from A to H as shown.
B
E
A
1A
B
1B
E
2
C
D
D
F
H
G
Twin needle threading.
C
F
H
G
- 11 -
DRAWING UP THE BOBBIN THREAD
1. Hold the upper thread with left hand, turn the
hand wheel slowly towards you until the needle
goes down and comes up. Then stop the hand
wheel when the take up lever is at its highest
position.
Lightly draw up the upper thread, by which the
lower thread will be brought up in a loop.
2. Pull out both threads and place them together
under presser foot to the rear of the machine.
3. Place fabric under presser foot from the front,
lower presser foot.
4. Start to sew.
CHANGING SEWING DIRECTIONS
1. Lower needle down into fabric and
raise presser foot, pivot the fabric
around the needle to change direction
as desired.
2. Lower the presser foot and start to sew.
- 12 -
LEVELLING MACHINE
Down
Up
- 13 -
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION
Normal upper thread tension: 4 – 6
Correct
Fabric
Upper thread tension may be adjusted
by turning the thread tension dial.
Upper thread
Bobbin thread
Incorrect
Inside of fabric
Upper thread
Lower thread tension can be
increased by turning the screw of the
bobbin case slightly to the right
(clockwise). Turning it to the left
(counter -clockwise) decreases
tension.
- 14 -
REGULATING THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
1. Push down the lever for the desired pressure; for light fabrics set lever at 3, set at 2 for
medium fabrics and at 1 for heavy fabrics.
2. Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding, skipped stitches or difficulty in guiding the fabric.
To adjust the presser foot pressure, use the lever behind the cover of the lamp. Loosen the
stop screw of the lamp cover to open it.
3. When darning or sewing freehand embroidery, release the pressure by setting the lever to O.
After adjusting the presser foot pressure and closing the lamp cover, tighten up the stop screw.
The lever is usually adjusted at 2.
INSERT “DARNING PLATE“
Sometimes you will want to control the feeding of fabric yourself. Turn the needle bar to its
highest position and raise the presser foot over the needle plate, aligning two pins of the
darning plate with holes of needle plate. You may then determine the movement of the fabric
by yourself. See page 25 for button sewing application.
- 15 -
CHANGING NEEDLE
Needle clamp screw
Tighten
Loosen
Face flat side away from you
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position.
2. Loosen needle clamp screw and remove the old needle.
3. With the flat side of the needle facing away from you, insert the needle as far
up as it will go.
4. Tighten the needle clamp screw securely.
- 16 -
FABRIC-THREAD-NEEDLE-TABLE
Please pay attention to the following list as a guide for sewing different types of fabric.
Fabric
Thread
Indication
of Upper
Tension
Pressure of Length of
Presser Foot Stitches
Needle
See page 15 Straight
ZZ
Pressure
stitch
regulation
Stitch Length
Dial
Nylon
80
Cotton
Tricot
60 S
Fiber silk
Light
Silk
50 Silk
Wool silk
50 S
Fiber silk
Gingham
60-80
Cotton
Thin
Jersey
60 S
Fiber
Medium
70 (10)
1-3
1-4
80 (12)
80-90
(12-14)
0.5 - 3 0.5 - 4
80 (12)
Gabardine 50 Silk
Denim
50
Cotton
Jersey
50 S
Fiber
Tweed
50 Silk
Heavy
90-100
(14-16)
80-90
(12-14)
80-90
(12-14)
- 17 -
0.5 - 3 0.5 - 4
SEWING (PATTERN SELECTOR) AND OPERATION TABLE
Stitch patterns
1
2-5
Stitch length
Presser foot
Straight stitch
Zigzag
6
Blind stitch
7
Reverse blind hem
8
Three step zigzag stitch
9
Slant over edge
10
Single overlock stitch
11
Honeycomb stitch
12
Zigzag stitch
13
Straight stretch stitch
14
15
Automatic embroidery
16
17
18-20 Buttonhole
Free-hand embroidery
Without
- 18 -
Darning
plate
TO START SEWING
Important hints:
1. Raise the take-up lever to its highest position before starting and after stopping
sewing.
2. Hold both threads about 10 cms to the rear of the machine for the first two or three
stitches.
3. Sufficient fabric should be placed under needle before lowering the presser foot.
4. Depress foot/speed control and start to sew.
5. Test the machine stitches on a scrap of fabric you plan to use, adjusting the machine
for the length of the stitch and tension suitable to your fabric.
6. Separate the machine from the power system if you leave it unsupervised.
Attention:
1. When turning the balance wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
2. Guide the cloth gently with your hand.
3. To prevent breaking needles, always raise the needle out of the fabric when you stop
sewing.
- 19 -
HOW TO FINISH STITCHES
1. Sew to the edge of seam.
2. Push the reverse button and sew in reverse for about 3-4 cms.
3. Raise needle to its highest position.
4. Lift the presser foot and pull the fabric out of the back of the machine.
Thread cutter
5. Cut threads as shown on the thread cutter.
- 20 -
STRAIGHT STITCH
1. This type of stitching is used most frequently.
2. The zigzag presser foot can be used for both straight and zigzag sewing.
3. For sewing light fabric, use a smaller stitch size. (Refer to page 17 for dial setting).
ZIGZAG SEWING
Pattern selector position
Satin stitching can be used for sewing
initials, patterns, appliqué, etc.
AUTOMATIC EMBROIDERY
14
15
16
17
These stitches have a wide range of
decorative and utility applications and are
particularly suitable for woven fabrics.
The Scallop stitch (14) is ideal for edging
collars, cuffs, tablecloths, serviettes etc. For
all the stitches, the stitch length can be
reduced to achieve a close “satin stitch” if
required.
With satin stitch a paper backing, will
improve the result.
- 21 -
OVERCASTING
Use these stitches for oversewing rough
edges.
STRAIGHT AND ZIGZAG STRETCH STITCHES
Use this stitch with knitted, tricot or other
stretchy fabrics.
The stitch enables your seam to stretch
without breaking the thread.
- 22 -
BLIND STITCH
1. Fold fabric as shown.
2. Finish the seam as shown.
- 23 -
Adjust the width to obtain the correct seam.
Wrong: Needle is not piercing edge
to fold at all.
Needle pierces the edge of fold too
much.
Correct seam.
- 24 -
BUTTON SEWING
Utilize the button presser foot.
Match
1. Place the darning plate properly.
2. Place button presser foot in position and attach it firmly.
3. Place the button between presser foot and fabric and lower the presser foot.
4. Manually turn hand wheel towards you, ensuring that the needle enters into both holes
of button without obstruction. (Increase or decrease width setting).
5. Sew about 7 stitches.
6. Pull both threads to the underside and tie them together.
BINDING
To sew fabrics edge select the multi-zigzag
stitch.
- 25 -
ZIPPER SEWING
Utilize the zipper foot.
Select straight stitch.
1. Zipper foot is designed to sew close to a raised edge,
thus preventing sewing on zipper.
2. Place zipper foot in position and attach firmly.
3. Fold the fabric about 2 cm and place the fabric
under foot.
1. To sew the left side of the zipper, set the zipper on
the right side of the needle.
2. To sew the right side of the zipper, set it on the left
side of the needle.
Sew as illustrated.
- 26 -
BUTTONHOLE SEWING
Set the stitch length dial.
Pattern selector dial
Steps
Setting
1. Set dial to “A“ position
2. Sew left side
3. Raise the needle
4. Set dial to “B“ position
5. Sew 5-6 stitches
6. Raise the needle
7. Set dial to “C“ position
8. Sew right side
9. Raise the needle
10. Set dial to “D“ position
11. Sew 5-6 stitches
12. Raise the needle
Before sewing, fit buttonhole foot as
shown.
Cut buttonhole along centre with cutter
as shown.
- 27 -
HEMMING
3 mm
1 mm
20 mm
1. Raise the foot and the needle to its highest position. Replace the foot with the picot foot.
2. Fold over the fabric edge by about 3 mm and place it under the foot. Secure the folded
edge with a few stitches. Slide the hem of your project into the picot foot by pulling the
threads.
3. Lower the foot and sew the hem.
4. While sewing fold the fabric to the left a little and guide it into the hemmer foot.
5. Make sure that the fabric does not move under the right half of the foot. The fabric must
be fed into the scroll of the hemmer sufficiently so that the project edge runs freely
through the groove under the foot.
Only suitable materials can be used and some practice may be necessary to achieve
the best results.
- 28 -
TWIN NEEDLE (Optional)
Put in the twin needle with the flat side backwards.
Thread the machine for normal sewing, leading both threads to needle and passing
their ends separately through its eye.
Sewing width should not exceed the third widest stitch width, as this will break the
needles.
ATTENTION: When using the twin needle, adjust the stitch width to maximally 3.
Adjusting the stitch width to a higher number causes the needle to break.
EMBROIDERY
Remove the presser foot and attach the darning plate.
Lower feed dog and move the hooped fabric slowly in the desired direction until the
fabric has been embroidered.
- 29 -
QUILTER
1. Slide the arm through the hole on top of the presser foot holder.
2. Move the quilter to the required stitch distance.
SEAM GUIDE
1. Use the seam guide to sew long seams of an equal distance from the edge of the fabric.
2. Screw the guide on the right side of the needle plate and adjust the desired distance.
3. While sewing, the edge of the fabric must touch the guide.
- 30 -
MAINTENANCE
1. Raise needle to its highest position.
2. Take out the bobbin case.
3. Turn the latch knob A as illustrated.
4. Take off shuttle race cover.
5. Take out shuttle hook.
6. Clean and oil shuttle race and hook,
thereafter replace all parts in
reverse order.
A
A
B
C
Cleaning shuttle race
(A) Latch knob
(B) Shuttle race cover
(C) Shuttle hook
Open face cover and oil the parts indicated.
- 31 -
Cleaning feed dog.
CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS – TROUBLESHOOTING
Problem
Probable cause
What to do
Fabric does not
move
- Feed teeth down
- Stitch length dial “0“ position
- Light presser foot pressure
- Raise feed teeth
- Set dial between 1 and 4
- Increase pressure
Breaking needle
- Incorrect insertion of needle
- Bent needle
- Fabric is being pulled
- Needle, thread and fabric do
not match
- Re-insert needle
- Replace needle
- Do not pull fabric
- Use correct needle and thread
Breaking upper
thread
- Faulty adjustment of zigzag
width
- Improper threading
- Tight upper thread tension
- Bent needle
- Scratches or nicks on bobbin
case
Breaking bobbin
thread
- Tight bobbin thread tension
- Incorrect insertion of needle
- Improper threading
- Lint or thread in bobbin case
- Reduce bobbin thread tension
- Re-insert needle
- Rethread machine
- Clean bobbin case
- Excessive tension
- Presser foot pressure too
strong
- Needle, thread and fabric do
not match
- Re-adjust tension
- Change pressure accordingly
Machine
jamming
- No oil
Puckering
- Tension too tight
- Sewing foot pressure too
strong
- Incorrect fabric, needle,
and thread
- 32 -
- Re-adjust zigzag width
- Re-thread machine
- Reduce upper thread tension
- Replace needle
- Polish or replace bobbin case
- Reduce proper needle and
thread according to type of
fabric
- Oil moving parts
- Reset
- Reduce sewing foot pressure
- Use correct fabric, needle
and thread