Currier Tech Scoot-E DD Series Owner`s manual

HYBRID ELECTRIC BICYCLE OWNER’S MANUAL
Enlightened Series
Rack Mount (RMB) Series
Additional information covering
Seat Tube Batteries (STB) Series
included in this manual
FULLY CHARGE BATTERIES BEFORE FIRST USE -
!
Batteries should be fully
charged immediately when they are received and immediately after each use for the recommended charge
times (see below).
• Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) batteries 4-6 hours
• NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) 4-6 hours
• SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries 6-8 hours
With proper care and maintenance your Currie Technologies® Hybrid Electric Bicycle will provide ease of use and be fun to ride.
Below are points that will help you to maximize the enjoyment you get from your new hybrid electric bicycle.
FACTORS TO MAXIMIZE THE RANGE OF YOUR HYBRID ELECTRIC BICYCLE
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
2
RIDER INPUT - the more the rider pedals the further the distance traveled. Continuous riding, as opposed to
frequent stopping and starting, will yield the greatest range possible
ELEVATION GAIN - the flatter the road the further the distance traveled
WEATHER - cold weather can adversely affect the battery capacity
WIND - traveling with a tailwind will increase distance traveled, traveling into a headwind will decrease distance
traveled
TERRAIN - the smoother the terrain (roadways vs. fireroads, etc.) the further the distance traveled
RIDER WEIGHT - the lighter the rider, resulting in less drain on the batteries, the further distance traveled
BICYCLE MAINTENANCE - a properly maintained bicycle will yield the greatest range possible
TIRE PRESSURE - properly inflated tires have less rolling resistance and will be easier to pedal
BATTERIES - properly charged and maintained batteries will yield the greatest range possible. Batteries stored in
cold areas (below 50 degrees Fahrenheit / 10 degrees Celsius) will show reduced range. Never allow batteries to
freeze (below 32º Fahrenheit) as this will result in permanent damage to them. Batteries that have not been kept in
optimum condition will show reduced range and run time.
HELMETS
SAVE
LIVES !!!
• ALWAYS WEAR A PROPERLY FITTED HELMET WHEN YOU RIDE
YOUR BICYCLE.
• DO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT.
• CPSC RECORDS SHOW THAT ABOUT 35% OF BICYCLE
RELATED DEATHS OCCUR AFTER DARK.
• AVOID RIDING IN WET CONDITIONS.
• CPSC RECORDS SHOW THAT ABOUT 65% OF INJURIES
HAPPEN TO CHILDREN UNDER 15 YEARS OF AGE.
• RIDE ONLY WITH ADULT SUPERVISION
CORRECT FITTING - MAKE
SURE YOUR HELMET COVERS
YOUR FOREHEAD.
INCORRECT FITTING. FOREHEAD
IS EXPOSED AND VULNERABLE
TO SERIOUS INJURY.
3
Personal Care from Currie Technologies®
Congratulations on your new purchase!
Our Service Department is dedicated to your
satisfaction with Currie Technologies® and its
products. For questions regarding performance,
assembly, operation, parts or returns, contact
the experts at Currie Technologies® directly by
calling toll free
1-800-377-4532
Monday - Friday
8:00 am - 4:00 pm (PST)
IMPORTANT – Please activate your warranty by
registering your new Currie product within 10
For questions or assistance on assembly contact days of purchase by visiting our web site www.
Currie Technologies® Customer Service
currietech.com and clicking the “Register Your
Product” link.
PLEASE DO NOT RETURN
THIS ITEM TO THE STORE.
4
The following manual is only a guide to assist you and is not a complete or comprehensive manual of all aspects of
maintaining and repairing your bicycle. The bicycle you have purchased is a complex object. We recommend that you
consult a bicycle repair specialist if you have doubts or concerns as to your experience or ability to properly assemble,
repair, or maintain your bicycle. You will save time and the inconvenience of having to go back to the store if you choose to
write or call us concerning missing parts, service questions, operating advice, and/or assembly questions.
SERVICE
CALL TOLL FREE 1 800 377 4532
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. (PST)
Serial Number Location
Bike Shown Upside Down
####
Serial Number
CURRIE TECHNOLOGIES®
9453 Owensmouth Avenue | Chatsworth, CA 91311
Phone (818) 734-8123 | Fax (818) 734-8199
www.CurrieTech.com | www.iZipUSA.com
Customer Service (800) 377-4532
5
Please Retain your Sales Receipt as Proof of Purchase.
Attach receipt here.
Notes:
_______________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
_______________________________________________________________________
6
PART 2 Before You Ride . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14-30
PART 3 Electrical Components . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31-48
PART 4 Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49-84
DIRECTORY
PART 1 Parts Identification and Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9-13
PART 5 Servicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .85-87
PART 6 Detailed Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88-123
?
PART 7 How Things Work. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124-136
PART 8 Purchase Record and Warranty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137-139
!
Warning / Important - Take notice of this symbol throughout this manual and pay
particular attention to the instructions blocked off and preceded by this symbol.
7
1. PARTS IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . 9-13
Electric Bikes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11-12
Tools Required
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
2. BEFORE YOU RIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-30
Correct Frame Size . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Riding Position . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Seat Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Reach. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Handlebar Height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
16
16
16
17
Safety Checklist . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18-22
Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Wheels & Tires. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Bearings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Cranks & Pedals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Derailleurs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Frame & Fork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Motor Assembly & Throttle. . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Battery Pack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19
Helmets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20
Reflectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21-22
Riding Safely. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23-25
General Rules . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Wet Weather Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Night Riding . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Pedaling Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Hill Technique. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Cornering Technique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Rules for Children . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Gears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26-28
Derailleur Gears . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Operating Principles. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26
Hand Grip Shifters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Below the Bar Shifters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28
Bicycle Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29-30
Basic Maintenance. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29
Storage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
Security . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
8
3. ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS . . . . . . 31-48
Battery Gauge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31-32
Battery Terminal Covers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Throttles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Pedal Activated System (PAS). . . . . . . . . 33
Twist and Go (TAG) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33
Pedal Torque Sensor (PTS) . . . . . . . . . . . 34
TTM4 Sensor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Taking Care of Batteries. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Battery FAQ's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36-37
Charging Batteries . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Charger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38-40
Power Switches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Fuses . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 42
Wiring Diagrams. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43-48
4. ASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49-84
Derailleur Geared Bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Handlebars, Stems and Shifters . . . . . 50-52
Aheadset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50
Standard Stem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51
Shifters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52
Forks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Seat and Seat Post . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54
Pedals & Crank Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
Front Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56
Quick Release Axle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56-57
Rear Wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
Front Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
V-Style Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59-60
Check your Brakes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61
Disc Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62-63
Derailleur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64-65
Rear Derailleur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64
Front Derailleur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65
Dual Suspension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66-67
Rear Pivots. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Fenders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69-71
Front Fender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
Rear Fender . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
Final Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Single Speed & BMX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72-84
Handlebars. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Pedals & Crank Set . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73
Front wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Front Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Side Pull Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
V-Style Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76-77
Rotors. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78-79
Axle Peg Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Non-Threaded Axle Peg. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Threaded Axle Peg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Training Wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 81-83
Wheels to Brace. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Brace to Bicycle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
C-Shape Brace. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Flat Brace. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Stabilizer Bracket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Final Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84
5. SERVICING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85-87
Schedule 1 - Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist . . . . . . . . 86
Tools Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
Crank Set. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105-108
Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Lubrication & Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 106
(one piece crankset)
Lubrication & Adjustment . . . . . . . . 107-108
(standard crankset)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109-113
Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Adjustment & Replacement . . . . . . . . . . 110
Electric Motor Chain Adjustment . . . 111-112
Freewheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Coaster Brake Hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
6. DETAILED MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . 88-123
Wheel Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Tire Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Tire Pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Hub Bearing Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Flat Tire Repair . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90-91
Handlebar Stem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92-93
Handlebars. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Grip Shift Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
Cables & Cable Housing . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
Derailleur Systems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114-116
Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Adjustment (Rear) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Adjustment (Front) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Headset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119-123
Mechanical . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119-121
Electrical. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122-123
Seat & Seat Post. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97-98
Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97
Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98
7. HOW THINGS WORK . . . . . . . . . . . 124-136
A) Wheel Quick Release . . . . . . . . . 124-127
B) Seatpost Quick Release . . . . . . . . . . 128
C) Brakes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128-130
D) Shifting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 130-133
E) Toeclips & Straps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
F) Clipless (“step-in”) pedals . . . . . . . . . 133
G) Tires and Tubes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
H) Bicycle Suspension. . . . . . . . . . . 135-136
Brakes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99-102
Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100
Adjustment Sidepull Calipers . . . . . . 100-101
Adjustment V-Style Brakes . . . . . . . . . . 101
Brake Pad Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102
Drivetrain. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103-104
Pedals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Inspection. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Lubrication & Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Attachment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104
Reflectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117-118
Reflectors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Miscellaneous Accessories . . . . . . . . . . 118
Basket Assembly . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
8. PURCHASE RECORD. . . . . . . . . . . 137-139
& LIMITED WARRANTY
Purchase Record . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Limited Warrant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138-139
Handlebar
Top Tube
Brake Lever
Seat
Brake Control Cables
Seat Post
Handlebar Stem
Quick Release
Front Reflector
Head Set
Seat Stay
Front Brake
Head Tube
Front Fork
Rear Reflector
Wheel Reflector
Rear Brake
Wheel Reflector
Freewheel
Battery Pack
Seat Tube
Front Hub
Down Tube
Spokes
Gear Control Cable
Front Derailleur
Bottom
Bracket Axle
PART 1 - PARTS IDENTIFICATION
MOUNTAIN BICYCLES . Mountain bicycles are designed to give maximum comfort over a wide variety of road
surfaces. The wider handlebars and convenient shift lever position make them very easy to control. Wider rims
and tires give them a softer ride with more traction on rough surfaces. The frame and fork on mountain style
bicycles are generally much sturdier than those on racing style bicycles.
Shift Lever
Rim
Tire
Chain Wheel
Crank Arm
Pedal
Gear Control
Cable
Rear Derailleur
Chain Stay
Tire Valve
Chain
9
BMX BICYCLES - BMX style bicycles are a popular general purpose type most suited for young riders. They
are valued because of their sturdy and simple construction, and low maintenance.
Front Brake Lever
Handlebar
Seat
Handlebar Grip
Seat Post
Handlebar Stem
Seat Post Binder Bolt or
Quick-Release Skewer
Brake Control Cable
Head Set
Front Reflector
Head Tube
Front Brake
Top Tube
Brake Pad
Seat Stay
Rear Reflector
Front Fork
Wheel Reflector
Wheel Reflector
Seat Tube
Front Hub
Spokes
Battery
Pack
Down Tube
Chain Wheel
Crank Arm
Pedal
Chain
Rim
Chain Stay
Tire
Rear Sprocket
Tire Valve
Training Wheel
10
FOLDING BICYCLES - Super portable, and easy folding design. Perfect for camping, and fits perfectly in RV's,
boats and car trunks.
Seat
Handlebar
Seat Post
Throttle
(ANDLEBAR1UICK
2ELEASE
Quick Release
Brake Lever
(ANDLEBAR3TEM
Battery Pack
Rear Reflector
Throttle Cable
(ANDLEBAR(INGE
Brake cable
&RAMEFOLD1UICK
2ELEASE
Rear Brake
Front Brake
Front Fender
Front Fork
0EDAL
Wheel Reflector
#RANK!RM
Controller
Front Hub
#HAIN'UARD
Freewheel
(UB-OTOR
#HAIN
Spokes
11
ENLIGHTENED SERIES - Lightweight, hidden, NiMH (nickel metal hydride) or Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) battery pack
in a modern designed frame. Perfect for Commuting and City Riding
(ANDLEBAR
3EAT
3TEM
4HROTTLE
(EAD3ET
"RAKE,EVER
(EAD4UBE
"RAKE#ONTROL#ABLE
4OP4UBE
&RONT"RAKE
3USPENSION3EATPOST
1UICKRELEASE
&RONT&ORK
2EAR"RAKE
3EAT4UBE
"ATTERY0ACK
INSIDE
3POKES
$OWN4UBE
0EDAL
#RANK!RM
2EAR2IM
#HAINRING
2EAR$ERAILLEUR
12
Controller
#HAIN
&RONT2IM
4IRE6ALVE
Your new bicycle was partially assembled in the factory and then partially disassembled for shipping. You may
have purchased the bicycle already fully assembled and ready to ride OR in the shipping carton in the partially
disassembled form. The following instructions will enable you to prepare your bicycle for years of enjoyable
cycling. For more details on inspection, lubrication, maintenance and adjustment of any area please refer to the
relevant sections in this manual. If you have questions about your ability to properly assemble this unit, please
consult a qualified bicycle service specialist before riding. If you need replacement parts or have questions
pertaining to assembly of your bicycle, call the service line direct at:
SERVICE AND TECHNICAL SUPPORT:
1 800 377 4532
Monday - Friday 8:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. (PST)
Tools Required:
• Phillips head screw driver
• 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm, 5mm 6mm & 8mm Allen keys
• Adjustable wrench or a 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm
& 15mm open and box end wrenches
• A pair of pliers with cable cutting ability
!
To avoid injury, this product must be properly assembled before use. If your bicycle was
obtained assembled, we strongly recommend that you review the complete assembly
instructions and perform checks specified in this manual before riding.
13
BEFORE YOU RIDE
ABOUT THIS MANUAL
It is important for you to understand your new bicycle. By reading this manual before you go out on your first ride, you’ll know
how to get better performance, comfort, and enjoyment from your new bicycle.
It is also important that your first ride on your new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles, and
other cyclists.
GENERAL WARNING
Bicycling can be a hazardous activity even under the best of circumstances. Proper maintenance of your bicycle is your
responsibility as it helps reduce the risk of injury. This manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the
consequences of failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle. Many of the warnings and cautions say “you may lose control
and fall.” Because any fall can result in serious injury or even death, we do not repeat the warning of possible injury or death
whenever the risk of falling is mentioned.
A SPECIAL NOTE FOR PARENTS
It is a tragic fact that most bicycle accidents involve children. As a parent or guardian, you bear the responsibility for the
activities and safety of your minor child. Among these responsibilities are to make sure that the bicycle which your child is
riding is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned,
understand and obey not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle, and traffic laws, but also the common sense rules of
safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual before letting your child ride the bicycle. Please make
sure that your child always wears an ANSI, ASTM, SNELL approved bicycle helmet when riding.
14
CORRECT FRAME SIZE
!
For safe and comfortable riding there should be clearance of no less than 1 - 2 inches between
the groin area of the intended rider and the top tube of the bicycle frame, while the rider straddles the
bicycle with both feet flat on the ground.
The ideal clearance will vary between types of bicycles and rider preference. This makes straddling the frame when off
the seat easier and safer in situations such as sudden traffic stops. Women can use a men’s style bicycle to determine the
correct size women’s model.
The following chart and diagram will help you make the correct choice. Rider leg length refers to approximate pant inseam.
Frame Sizing Guide
1-2in.
Approximate Rider Leg
Length
Suggested Frame Size for
Racing/Touring Bicycle
Suggested frame Size for
Mountain, Hybrid, Comfort,
or Cruiser Bicycle
61-69cm / 24-27 inches
-
37cm / 14.5 inches
66-76cm / 26-30 inches
-
43cm / 17 inches
71-79cm / 28-31 inches
50cm / 19.5 inches
45cm / 18 inches
76-84cm / 30-33 inches
55cm / 21.5 inches
50cm / 19.5 inches
79-86cm / 31-34 inches
57cm / 22.5 inches
52cm / 20.5 inches
81-89cm / 32-35 Inches
60cm / 23.5 Inches
53-56cm / 21-22 Inches
86-94cm / 34-37 inches
63cm / 25 inches
58-60cm / 23-23.5 inches
PART 2 - BEFORE YOU RIDE
When selecting a new bicycle, the correct choice of frame size is a very important safety consideration. Most full sized
bicycles come in a range of frame sizes. These sizes usually refer to the distance between the center of the bottom bracket
and the top of the frame seat tube.
15
RIDING POSITION
Seat Height
In order to obtain the most comfortable riding position and offer the
best possible pedaling efficiency, the seat height should be set
correctly in relation to the rider’s leg length. The correct saddle height
should not allow leg strain from over-extension, and the hips should
not rock from side to side when pedaling. While sitting on the bicycle
with one pedal at its lowest point, place the ball of your foot on that
pedal. The correct saddle height will allow the knee to be slightly bent
in this position. If the rider then places the heel of that foot on the
pedal, the leg should be almost straight.
Maximum Height /
Minimum Insertion Mark
(Should not be visible)
!
Arms not overextended
Handlebar stem
height about the
same as
seat height
Under no circumstances should the seat post project
from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or
“Maximum Extension” mark. If your seat post projects
from the frame beyond these markings, the seat post
or frame may break, which could cause you to lose
control and fall. Prior to your first ride, be sure to
tighten the seat clamp properly. A loose seat clamp
or seat post binder can cause damage to the bicycle
or can cause you to lose control and fall. Periodically
check to make sure that the seat clamp is properly
tightened.
Reach
To obtain maximum comfort, the rider should not overextend his or her
reach when riding.
Pedal at
bottom position
16
To adjust this distance, the position of the seat can be altered in
relation to the seat post. (Refer to page 98 on how to adjust the seat
clamp.)
Handlebar Height
Stem Wedge Bolt
Handlebar Binder Bolt
Exceeds 2 1/2”
(64mm)
!
Maximum comfort is usually obtained when the handlebar height is
equal to the height of the seat. You may wish to try different heights to
find the most comfortable position.
Maximum Height/
Minimum Insertion
Mark
Threadless headsets and clamp-on stems are not adjustable. Please refer to page 34
for instructions on installation.
The stem’s “Minimum Insertion” mark must not be visible above the top of the
headset. If the stem is extended beyond this mark, the stem may break or damage
the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Failure to properly tighten the stem binder bolt, the handlebar binder bolt, or the bar
end extension clamping bolts may compromise steering action, which could cause
you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs
and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly using a reasonable amount of
force. If you can twist the stem in relation to the front wheel, turn the handlebars in
relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions in relation to the handlebar. Prior
to riding, you must fully tighten the appropriate bolts accordingly.
17
SAFETY CHECKLIST
Before every ride, it is important to carry out the following safety checks:
1. Brakes
•
•
•
•
Ensure
Ensure
Ensure
Ensure
front and rear brakes work properly.
brake shoe pads are not over worn and are correctly positioned in relation to the rims.
brake control cables are lubricated, correctly adjusted and display no obvious wear.
brake control levers are lubricated and tightly secured to the handlebar.
2. Wheels and Tires
•
•
•
•
•
Ensure tires are inflated to within the recommended limit as displayed on the tire sidewall.
Ensure tires have tread and have no bulges or excessive wear.
Ensure rims run true and have no obvious wobbles or kinks.
Ensure all wheel spokes are tight and not broken.
Check that axle nuts are tight. If your bicycle is fitted with quick release axles, make sure locking levers are
correctly tensioned and in the closed position.
3. Steering
•
•
•
•
Ensure handlebar and stem are correctly adjusted and tightened, and allow proper steering.
Ensure that the handlebars are set correctly in relation to the forks and the direction of travel.
Check that the headset locking mechanism is properly adjusted and tightened.
If the bicycle is fitted with handlebar end extensions, ensure they are properly positioned and tightened.
4. Chain
•
•
18
Ensure chain is oiled, clean and runs smoothly.
Extra care is required in wet or dusty conditions.
5. Bearings
•
•
Ensure all bearings are lubricated, run freely and display no excess movement, grinding or rattling.
Check headset, wheel bearings, pedal bearings and bottom bracket bearings.
6. Cranks and Pedals
•
•
Ensure pedals are securely tightened to the cranks.
Ensure cranks are securely tightened to the axle and are not bent.
7. Derailleurs
•
•
•
Check that front and rear mechanisms are adjusted and function properly.
Ensure shift and brake levers are attached to the handlebar, shift and brake.
Ensure derailleurs, shift levers and shift and brake cables are properly lubricated.
8. Frame and Fork
•
•
Check that the frame and fork are not bent or broken.
If either are bent or broken, they should be replaced.
9. Accessories
•
•
•
Ensure that all reflectors are properly fitted and not obscured.
Ensure all other fittings on the bike are properly and securely fastened, and functioning.
Ensure the rider is wearing a helmet.
10. Motor Drive Assembly and Throttle
•
Ensure all motor drive components are correctly mounted and functioning properly.
11. Battery Pack
•
Ensure the batteries are in good operation condition and kept fully charged.
19
Helmets
It is strongly advised that a properly fitting, ANSI or SNELL approved,
bicycle safety helmet be worn at all times when riding your bicycle. In
addition, if you are carrying a passenger in a child safety seat, they
must also be wearing a helmet.
The correct helmet should:
- be comfortable
- be lightweight
- have good ventilation
- fit correctly
- cover forehead
!
20
Always wear a properly fitted helmet which covers the forehead when riding a bicycle. Many states
require specific safety devices. It is your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the state
where you ride and to comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your
bike as the law requires. Reflectors are important safety devices which are designed as an integral part
of your bicycle. Federal regulations require every bicycle to be equipped with front, rear, wheel, and
pedal reflectors. These reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect street lights and car lights in a
way that helps you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist. Check reflectors and their
mounting brackets regularly to make sure they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted.
Have your dealer replace damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
Reflectors
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and four pedal (orange) reflectors. (Please
Note: Sidewalk bikes, 12” and under, may not have reflectors.) These are an important safety and legal requirements, and
should remain securely fitted and in good, clean condition at all times. Periodically inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting
hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if damage is found. Some bicycles will require you to install your
reflectors onto your bicycle. Please refer to the following section for instructions on all the types of bicycle reflectors.
Fork Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly
First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector
bracket and then through the fork. Next, insert a second washer onto the bolt and
thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the fork. Tighten bolts until snug, making sure
the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the right.
Front Reflector Mount with Caliper Brake Assembly
First remove the hex nut from the back of the fork and pull the brake from the fork.
Insert a spacer, washer and the reflector bracket on to the caliper bolt. Insert the
caliper bolt back into the fork and secure firmly with a concave spacer, washer and
the hex nut. Finally, adjust the reflector such that it is in an upright position. See
diagram at the right.
21
Seat and Handlebar Mounting Reflectors
First attach the reflector to the reflector bracket with the reflector screw, see the top
diagram. Next, remove the clamp screw and open the clamping reflector bracket.
Place clamping reflector bracket around the handlebar or seatpost. If the clamp is
too loose, insert a rubber spear inside of the clamp. Tighten the clamp screw to hold
reflector assembly in place, see the second diagram. Finally, adjust the reflector
assembly in place and ensure that it is upright and facing away from the bike.
Seatstay Mount Reflector Bracket Assembly
First insert one washer onto the hex bolt and insert hex bolt through the reflector
bracket and then through the seatstay bridge. Next, insert a second washer onto the
bolt and thread a hex nut onto the bolt behind the seatstay bridge. Tighten bolts until
snug, making sure the reflector is in an upright position. See diagram at the bottom
right.
22
RIDING SAFELY
General Rules
When riding obey the same road laws as all other road vehicles, including giving way to pedestrians, and stopping
at red lights and stop signs.
For further information, contact the Road Traffic Authority, police department or Department of Motor Vehicles in
your State.
Ride predictably and in a straight line. Never ride against traffic.
Use correct hand signals to indicate turning or stopping.
Ride defensively. To other road users, you may be hard to see.
Concentrate on the path ahead. Avoid pot holes, gravel, wet road markings, oil, curbs, speed bumps, drain grates
and other obstacles.
Cross train tracks at a 90 degree angle or walk your bicycle across.
Expect the unexpected such as opening car doors or cars backing out of concealed driveways.
Be extra careful at intersections and when preparing to pass other vehicles.
Familiarize yourself with all the bicycle's features. Practice gear shifts, braking, and the use of toe clips and straps,
if fitted.
If you are wearing loose pants, use leg clips or elastic bands to prevent them from being caught in the chain or
gears. Wear proper riding attire and avoid wearing open toe shoes.
Don't carry packages or passengers that will interfere with your visibility or control of the bicycle. Don't use items
that may restrict your hearing.
Do not lock up the brakes. When braking, always apply the rear brake first, then the front. The front brake is more
powerful and if it is not correctly applied, you may lose control and fall.
Maintain a comfortable stopping distance from all other riders, vehicles and objects. Safe braking distances and
forces are subject to the prevailing weather conditions.
Use designated bicycle paths if possible.
23
Wet Weather
!
•
•
•
•
•
•
IT IS RECOMMENDED TO NOT RIDE IN WET WEATHER This hybrid electric bicycle is not
meant for use in the water (damp roads, puddles, rain, streams, etc.). Never immerse this
product in water as the electrical system may be damaged.
In wet weather you need to take extra care.
Brake earlier, you will take up to 6 times longer distance to stop.
Decrease your riding speed, avoid sudden braking and take corners with additional caution.
Be more visible on the road.
Wear reflective clothing and use safety lights.
Potholes and slippery surfaces such as line markings and train tracks all become more
hazardous and more difficult to see when wet.
Night Riding
!
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
IT IS RECOMMENDED TO NOT RIDE AT NIGHT
Ensure bicycle is equipped with a full set of correctly positioned and clean reflectors.
Refer to page 1 and 101 of this manual.
Use a properly functioning lighting set comprising of a white front lamp and a red rear lamp.
If using battery powered lights, make sure batteries are well charged.
Some rear lights available have a flashing mechanism which enhances visibility.
Wear reflective and light colored clothing.
Ride at night only if necessary. Slow down and use familiar roads with street lighting, if possible.
Pedaling Technique
•
•
•
•
24
Position the ball of your foot on the center of the pedal.
When pedaling, ensure your knees are parallel to the bicycle frame.
To absorb shock, keep your elbows slightly bent.
Learn to operate the gears properly. (Refer to pages 26-28)
Hill Technique
•
•
•
•
Gear down before a climb and continue gearing down as required to maintain pedaling speed.
If you reach the lowest gear and are struggling, stand up on your pedals. You will then obtain more power from
each pedal revolution.
On the descent, use the high gears to avoid rapid pedaling.
Do not exceed a comfortable speed; maintain control and take additional care.
Cornering Technique
Brake slightly before cornering and prepare to lean your body into the corner. Maintain the inside pedal at the 12 o'clock
position and slightly point the inside knee in the direction you are turning. Keep the other leg straight, don't pedal through
fast or tight corners. While going through the turn, keep your eyes parallel to the horizon and look as far ahead of you
as possible.
Please refer to pages 128-130 for braking techniques and pages 130-133 for gear shifting techniques.
Rules for Children
To avoid accidents, teach children good riding skills with an emphasis on safety from an early age. Children should always be
supervised by an adult.
1. Always wear a properly fitted helmet.
2. Do not play in driveways or the road.
3. Do not ride on busy streets.
4. Do not ride at night.
5. Obey all the traffic laws, especially stop signs and red lights.
6. Be aware of other road vehicles behind and nearby.
7. Before entering a street: Stop, look right, left, and right again for traffic. If there's no traffic, proceed into the roadway.
8. If riding downhill, be extra careful. Slow down using the brakes and maintain control of the steering.
9. Never take your hands off the handlebars, or your feet off the pedals when riding downhill.
!
The Consumer Protection Safety Commission advises that the riding of small wheel diameter bicycles at
excessive speeds can lead to instability and is not recommended. Children should be made aware of all
possible riding hazards and correct riding behavior before they take to the streets. Do not leave it up to
trial and error.
25
Drivetrain
Freewheel
Cogs
Derailleur Control
Cable
Front Derailleur
Front Chainwheels
Guide Pulley
Crank Arm
Rear Derailleur
Pedal
GEARS - HOW TO OPERATE
Derailleur Gears
Most multi-speed bicycles today are equipped with what are
known as derailleur gears. They operate using a system of levers
and mechanisms to move the drive chain between different sized
driving gears or cogs. The purpose of gears is to let you maintain
a constant, steady pedaling pace under varying conditions. This
means your riding will be less tiring without unnecessary straining up
hills or fast pedaling down hill. Bicycles come with a variety of gear
configurations from 5 to 30 speeds. A 5-6 speed bicycle will have a
single front chainwheel, a rear derailleur, and 5 or 6 cogs on the rear
hub. Bicycles with more gears will also have a front derailleur, a front
chainwheel with 2-3 cogs, and up to 10 cogs on the rear hub.
Operating Principles
No matter how many gears, the operating principles are the same.
The front derailleur is operated by the left shift lever and the rear
derailleur by the right. To operate you must be pedaling forward. You
can not shift derailleur gears when you are stopped or when pedaling
backwards. Before shifting ease up on your pedaling pressure. For
a smooth gear change when approaching a hill, shift to a lower gear
BEFORE your pedaling speed slows down too much. When coming
to a stop, shift to a lower gear first so it will be easier when you start
riding again. If, after selecting a new gear position, you hear a slight
rubbing noise from the front or rear gears, some adjustments may be
necessary. Gently adjust the appropriate shifter using the barrel
adjusters until the noise goes away. For optimal performance and
extended chain life, it is recommended that you avoid using the
extreme combinations of gear positions (Refer to diagram on page
25) for extended periods. It is recommended that a trained bicycle
technician perform all adjustments to the shifters and derailleurs.
26
4
6 5
1
3 2
3
High
4
6 5
2
1
Middle
Low
These combinations are
NOT RECOMMENDED for
optimal performance.
1
3 2
2
High
1
Low
These combinations are
NOT RECOMMENDED for
optimal performance.
Recommended Chainwheel/Rear Sprocket Gear Combinations
Front Low Gear
Rear Low Gear
Front High Gear
Rear High Gear
Hand Grip Shifters
Some bicycles are now being equipped with a shifting mechanism
called Grip Shift™, which is built into the handlebar grips and does
not make use of separate levers. The actuating mechanism is built
into the inside part of the grip that the web of the thumb and index
finger closes around. To select a lower gear, twist the right shifter
toward you to engage a larger rear cog. You can shift one gear at a
time by moving the Grip Shift™ one click, or through multiple gears
by continued twisting. By twisting the left shifter forward or away from
you, a smaller chainwheel can be selected. To select a higher gear,
twist the right shifter forward or away from you to engage a smaller
rear cog. To engage a larger front chainwheel, twist the left shifter
towards you. Single shifts can be achieved by twisting one click at a
time and multiple shifts by larger twists.
27
Below the Bar Shifters
Many mountain style bicycles now use a shift lever arrangement
mounted on the underside of the handlebars, which use two levers
operated by the thumb and index finger. To select a lower gear push the
larger (lower) right shifter with your thumb to engage a larger rear cog.
One firm push shifts the chain one cog, continuing to push will move
the chain over multiple cogs. Pulling the smaller (upper) left shifter with
your index finger moves the chain from a larger to a smaller chainwheel.
To select a higher gear pull the smaller (upper) right lever with your
index finger to engage a smaller rear cog. Pushing the larger (lower)
left lever with your thumb will move the chain from a smaller to a larger
chainwheel. Please refer to pages 130-133 for additional instructions in
“How Things Work”.
28
Left hand lever
Right hand lever
BICYCLE CARE
Basic Maintenance
The following procedures will help you maintain your hybrid electric bicycle for years of enjoyable riding.
Properly maintain the batteries by keeping them fully charged when not in use.
Do not ride your hybrid electrical bicycle in the water (damp roads, puddles, rain, streams, etc.) and never immerse it in water
as the electrical system may be damaged.
Periodically check the wiring and connectors to ensure there is no damage and the connectors had good continuity.
For painted frames, dust the surface and remove any loose dirt with a dry cloth. To clean, wipe with a damp cloth soaked in
a mild detergent mixture. Dry with a cloth and polish with car or furniture wax. Use soap and water to clean plastic parts and
rubber tires. Chrome plated bikes should be wiped over with a rust preventative fluid.
Store your bicycle under shelter. Avoid leaving it in the rain or exposed to corrosive materials.
Riding on the beach or in coastal areas exposes your bicycle to salt which is very corrosive. Wash your bicycle frequently
and wipe or spray all unpainted parts with an anti-rust treatment. Make sure wheel rims are dry so braking performance is not
affected. After rain, dry your bicycle and apply anti-rust treatment.
If the hub and bottom bracket bearings of your bicycle have been submerged in water, they should be taken out and
re-greased. This will prevent accelerated bearing deterioration.
If paint has become scratched or chipped to the metal, use touch up paint to prevent rust. Clear nail polish can also be used as
a preventative measure.
Regularly clean and lubricate all moving parts, tighten components and make adjustments as required. (Refer to Parts
5 and 6 of this manual for further details).
The use of alloy components and BED, SATIN and TITANIUM surface treatments minimizes the number of places
where rust can surface.
29
Storage
Keep your bicycle in a dry location away from the weather and the sun.
Direct sunlight may cause paint to fade or rubber and plastic parts to
crack. Before storing your bicycle for a long period of time, clean and
lubricate all components and wax the frame. Deflate the tires to half
pressure and hang the bicycle off the ground. Don't cover with plastic as
"sweating” will result which may cause rusting. Please notice that your
bicycle warranty does not cover paint damage, rust, corrosion, dry rot or
theft.
Security
It is advisable that the following steps be taken to prepare for and help
prevent possible theft.
1. Maintain a record of the bicycle’s serial number, generally
located on the frame underneath the bottom bracket or on the
head tube.
2. Register the bicycle with the local police.
3. Invest in a high quality bicycle lock that will resist hack saws
and bolt cutters. Always lock your bicycle to an immovable
object if it is left unattended.
30
ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS
When the throttle or sensor is engaged (powering the motor) and the
bicycle is in motion, the LED’s on the battery gauge (on the throttle or
separate unit) indicate instantaneous line voltage as measured at the
battery terminals -- and not the available energy in the battery pack.
The line voltage will fluctuate depending on the instantaneous load that
the motor is under. For example, when starting out from a dead stop, or
going up a steep hill, the motor will be under a high load and may show
a reduced number of LED's or show the “Yellow” or even “Red” LED.
When the throttle is disengaged (i.e. no power to the motor due to
the bicycle being stationary or coasting) the LED’s on the throttle will
indicate the voltage of the battery pack. The voltage of the battery pack
will rise when no load is on the motor. The best indication of how much
battery life is remaining is to check the throttle LED’s, after reaching
cruising speed, on a flat straight road as this will allow the battery
voltage to stabilize and give a much more accurate reading.
TAG Throttle with
Battery Gauge
PAS / TAG
with Battery Gauge
PART 3 - ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS
Battery Gauge
Battery Gauge
31
Battery Gauge with Power Adjuster
This unit is featured on the Enlightened series of bicycles. Not only does
it act like a battery gauge but it also enables the rider to vary the level of
power assistance (1 LED = least amount of power assistance, 5 LED's =
maximum amount of power assistance).
Press the "+" button to increase the amount of power assistance (Note
that this will also decrease the range of the bicycle because more
battery power is being used).
Press the "-" to decrease the amount of the power assistance (Note
that this will also increase the range of the bicycle because less battery
power is being used).
Battery Terminal Covers
Bicycles with Rack Mount Batteries are equipped with battery terminal
cover(s) (see photo). These protect the battery terminals from debris
and water when the terminal is not in use (i.e. when the battery(s) is
removed from the bike).
These battery terminal covers need to be removed in order for the battery to make contact with terminals.
32
Throttles
Throttles are equipped on some models of electric bicycles. Throttles
operate by rotating the throttle towards the rider much like a motorcycle.
They generally are the inner half of the right side handlebar grip and
may also contain a battery gauge. The more you twist the throttle, the
faster the motor system will propel the bicycle.
TAG Throttle
TAG (Twist and Go)
Before you begin riding, turn the main power switch on, then start
riding as you would ride any regular, non motor assisted bicycle. After
you have begun to ride, slowly twist the throttle (on equipped models)
towards you. The more you twist the throttle, the more motor power
will be applied to the wheels. You may feel the pedals get a “lighter”
feel than riding without the motor assisting you. Once you have twisted
the throttle all the way, the motor will accelerate you to its full speed of
about 15mph (24 km/h).
PAS (Pedal Activated System)
Electric bicycles with this system have a throttle that is only active when
the pedals are in a forward motion. A sensor ring on the bottom bracket
spindle rotates and a sensor reads this rotation.
PAS Sensor
Begin by first riding as if you are on a normal non-electric bicycle, then
while the pedals are in motion slowly twist the throttle towards you to
activate the motor power.
PAS / TAG throttle switch (if equipped)
PAS / TAG
Selector Switch
The type of system enables the rider to select between the PAS and
TAG modes via the red thumb button. Refer to the TAG and PAS
sections to find out how these modes work. Note: When using the TAG
mode you will use more battery power and thus shorten range of the
bicycle.
33
Torque Sensors
Electric bicycles with this system have no throttle. They must be
pedaled like a normal bicycle in order to engage the motor drive system.
PTS (Pedal Torque Sensor)
Electric bicycles with this system have no throttle. They must be
pedaled like a normal bicycle in order to engage the motor drive system.
Crankset with
PTS Torque Sensor
Begin by first riding the bicycle normally as if it were not an electric
bicycle. Naturally as you accelerate and push harder on the pedals, the
motor system will increase its force to help you.
If you are ascending a hill and pushing the pedals hard, the motor will
assist you by pushing proportionately with your pedaling force. If you are
descending a hill and putting very little force on the pedals, the motor
will also not be pushing very much.
TMM4 (Frame Torque Sensor)
Electric bicycles with this system have no throttle. They must be
pedaled like a normal bicycle in order to engage the motor drive system.
Begin by first riding the bicycle normally as if it were not an electric
bicycle. Naturally as you accelerate and push harder on the pedals, the
motor system will increase its force to help you.
If you are ascending a hill and pushing the pedals hard, the motor will
assist you by pushing proportionately with your pedaling force. If you are
descending a hill and putting very little force on the pedals, the motor
will also not be pushing very much.
34
TMM4 Sensor
Taking Care of Your Batteries
Proper maintenance of the batteries will maximize their lifespan and available ride time. Currie
Technologies® warrants your new batteries from the date of purchase but only if properly cared
for. Refer to the limited warranty for details.
• Currie uses SLA (Sealed Lead Acid), NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) or Li-Ion (Lithium Ion)
batteries in all of our electric bicycles. These are all very user friendly types of batteries
when cared for properly
• Batteries should be fully charged immediately when they are received for the
recommended charge times. FULLY CHARGE BATTERIES BEFORE FIRST USE.
Below are the recommended charge times for each type of batteries.
• Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) batteries 4-6 hours
• NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) 4-6 hours
• SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries 6-8 hours
• Charge batteries at least every 90 days for NiMH & Li-Ion and every 30 days for SLA
until normal use is resumed.
• Always store bicycle with fully charged batteries.
• Never charge the batteries for more than 24 hours.
• Always disconnect the charger from the wall outlet and bicycle when charging is
complete (as indicated by the status on the charger) before storing the bicycle.
• Do not store batteries below 50º Fahrenheit and never allow batteries to freeze
(below 32º Fahrenheit).
• Bikes are equipped with a 5 minute sleep mode. If no activity is detected after 5 minutes
the bike will go into stasis mode to conserve the batteries. To restart, cycle the power
switch Off then On. Bikes are not to be stored in the 5 minute sleep mode. Be sure
to turn the power switch "OFF" when the bike in not in use.
• Always be sure to turn the bike “OFF” after each use via the On/Off power switch. If you
have left the power switch on or your product has not been charged for a long period of
time, the batteries may reach a stage at which it will no longer hold a charge.
• Be friendly to the environment! Be sure to recycle your old batteries at a local battery
recycling center. Do not throw them in the garbage!
• Frequent “stops and starts” will drain a battery more quickly than sustained, long-term
use
• Even with proper care, rechargeable batteries does not last forever. Average battery life
depends on use and conditions.
Electric Bikes with Seat Tube
Mounted Battery (STB) Packs
- Remove the power cable from the
charger port and attach charger.
Electric Bikes with Rack Mounted
Battery (RMB) Packs - Lift the
battery pack handle to expose the
charger port and attach charger.
Electric Bikes with internal battery
packs - Rotate the charger port
cover and attach charger.
35
Battery FAQ's
Q: Do I need to charge the batteries before using them?
A: Yes, you should charge the batteries fully before first using them.
Q: What is conditioning (NiMH only)?
A: The conditioning process is performed by first draining the batteries and then charging them fully. Conditioning is recommended for every ten to twenty charges.
Q: Do I need to "break-in" my batteries?
A: Yes, the batteries used in the Currie Hybrid Electric Bicycles will need to have a “break-in” cycle consisting of ~ three discharge/charge cycles before they will reach optimum performance. This involves three complete discharges and three complete
recharges. After this initial “break-in” cycle the batteries will have maximum possible performance and less line voltage fluctuations under load.
Q: How long will the batteries hold their charge?
A: All batteries will self-discharge when not in use. The self-discharging rate depends on the temperature at which they are
stored. Excessively cold or hot storage temperatures will drain the batteries faster than normal. Ideally the batteries should be
stored at room temperature.
Q: Why should I recharge my batteries at least every 90 days (NiMH & Li-Ion) and every 30 days (SLA) when I am not
using them?
A: Batteries naturally loose their charge over time. To keep the batteries in optimal condition and extend their life, it is recommended that a top-off recharge be performed at least every 90 days for NiMH & Li-Ion batteries and at least every 30 days for
SLA batteries.
Q: What happens if I leave the power switch on longer than 5 minutes?
A: Currie bikes are equipped with a 5 minute shut-off mode. If no activity is detected after 5 minutes the bike will turn itself off to
protect the batteries. To restart, cycle the power switch (OFF then ON). If you have left the power switch on or your product has
not been charged for a long period of time, the batteries may reach a stage at which it will no longer hold a charge.
36
Q: Will I get more performance from my bike if I leave the batteries to charge longer?
A: No, once the batteries are fully charged (as indicated by the light on the charger) it is best to unplug them from the charger.
Leaving the batteries charging longer than necessary is called “overcharging” and will not increase performance. Currie-supplied
chargers are designed to avoid over-charging a battery. Still we recommend that you always unplug a charger after the unit is
fully charged to avoid the possibility of unanticipated circumstances such as an unexpected power surge from a lightning strike
(or other power line anomaly) potentially causing damage. Only use Currie-supplied chargers.
Q: Is it normal that the batteries get warm when recharging?
A: Yes, it is normal that the batteries will become warm to the touch during the recharging process. This is because the increase
of internal resistance and less energy conversion efficiency from electric energy to chemical energy.
Q: How long will my batteries last before needing replacement?
A: Average battery life depends on use and conditions. Even with proper care, rechargeable batteries does not last forever.
37
Charger
The hybrid electric bicycle comes with its own "Smart Charger” that connects with an easy-access charger port for recharging the
batteries. This charger unit has lights that show the battery charge status. Refer to the instructions that appear on the charger
unit and its instructions.
Batteries work best when they have a full charge, so always be sure to recharge them fully after each ride. If you leave them in a
run-down condition, without recharging them, it will shorten their life expectancy.
•
•
•
Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) batteries - charge for 4-6 hours for full charge
NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries - charge for 4-6 hours for full charge
SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries - charge for 6-8 hours for full charge
The charger may get warm to the touch, so make sure you charge them in an open area and do not lay anything on the charger
unit while charging. Although you cannot over-charge the batteries using the Currie “Smart Charger”, we recommend that you do
not leave the charger plugged in for more than 24 hours.
If your charger shows a solid green light after charging for a short period of time, your battery may have been only partially discharged (short ride), or this may be the sign of a partially worn out battery with reduced storage capacity. Continue charging for
the full time, to cover all the bases. If the battery still has not charged, you may need to replace it.
Even with proper care, a rechargeable battery does not last forever. Average battery life depends on use and conditions.
!
38
The charger and charger port should be regularly inspected for damage (cord, plug, enclosure, etc.).
If damage is found stop using until the damaged part can be repaired or replaced.
How to use the NiMH and Li-Ion Chargers
Orange/Green light
Before using the charger locate the voltage selector switch (NiMH
and Li-Ion chargers only) on the back of the charger. Select either 115
Volts or 230 Volts depending on the country you reside in. Using the
wrong voltage setting will permanently damage the charger and/or electrical
components on the hybrid electric bicycle.
!
1. Plug the charger into the outlet and turn the charger “ON” via the switch on
the back side. The red power light on the front of the charger will illuminate
when the charger is working properly.
2. Insert the XLR plug (round plug with 3 pins) into the charger port on the
bike being sure the charger plug is fully seated in the charger port. The
second light will start to flash orange for several seconds while the charger is
“seeking” the battery.
3. Once the charger has "found" the battery the blinking orange light will stop
flashing and turn solid orange and the cooling fan will start. At this point the
charge process has begun.
4. Once the battery reaches full charge, the orange light will turn solid green.
5. When charging is complete, unplug the charger from the wall before removing
it from the charger port.
FUSE
Front Side of Charger
Back Side of Charger
115
Charge for the full time. If the battery still has not charged, you may need to replace it.
!
!
Voltage selector switch
Use only Currie Authorized Li-Ion chargers with bicycles equipped with Li-Ion batteries.
Using any other charger will damage the batteries and void your warranty.
Use only Currie Authorized NiMH chargers with bicycles equipped with NiMH batteries.
Using any other charger will damage the batteries and void your warranty.
39
How to use the SLA Chargers (standard)
1. Plug the charger into the outlet. The indicator light on the top of the charger
will illuminate when the charger is working properly. Refer to the sticker on the
charger for actual status light indication.
2. Insert the plug (XLR, 2v1h or 3v) into the charger port on the bike being sure
the charger plug is fully seated in the charger port. The light should be solid
red or blinking green to indicate charging however you will need to refer to the
sticker on the charger for actual status light indication.
3. Once the battery reaches full charge, the light will return to solid green
however you will need to refer to the sticker on the charger for actual status
light indication.
4. When charging is complete, unplug the charger from the wall before removing
it from the charger port.
Charge for the full time. If the battery still has not charged, you may need to replace it.
Example of SLA Charger
w/ XLR Plug
XLR Plug
2v1h Plug
!
40
Use only Currie Authorized SLA chargers with bicycles equipped with SLA batteries.
Using any other charger will damage the batteries and void your warranty.
3v Plug
Main Power Switches
STANDARD POWER SWITCHES
The power switch may be located, depending on the model of
bike, in the following locations
•
•
•
•
On the battery pack itself (CX and STB Series)
On the side of the downtube (Enlightened Series)
On the side of the controller box (RMB Series 2007)
On the backside of the rack behind the rear reflector
(RMB Series 2008-)
CX Bicycles
STB Bicycles
Enlightened Bicycles
RMB Bicycles (2007)
Key Lock Power Switch
RMB Bicycles (2008-)
Be sure to turn the switch off whenever you are not using the
bicycle or when charging the bicycle.
DUAL POWER SWITCHES
Bikes with dual rack mounted battery
packs (RMB 2007 and RMB 2008)
are also equipped with a dual power
switch. This switch has two "ON"
positions that corresponds to the two
battery packs. The switch is "OFF"
when placed at the center position.
ON 1
OFF
ON 2
KEY LOCK POWER SWITCHES
Certain bicycles (ex. HG1000) are equipped with a key lock
power switch. This feature provides added security allowing
only the person with the key to turn the power on or off. This
key lock switch has the same function as a standard power
switch.
41
Fuses
All Currie Technologies® Hybrid Electric Bicycles are equipped
with fuses. The fuse may be located, depending on the model of
bike, in the following locations
•
•
•
•
•
•
CX Series (40a glass type fuse) - On the battery pack,
externally accessible
RMB Series (40a glass type fuse) - On the backside of the
battery pack, externally accessible
STB Series (24v, 40a glass type fuse) - Inside the battery,
must open the battery pack to access
STB Series (36v, 40a glass type fuse) - On the battery
pack, externally accessible
Enlightened Series (NiMH, 30a blade type fuse) - inside
the bottom end of the downtube, remove downtube cap to
access
Enlightened Series (Li-Ion, 30a blade type fuse & 5a blade
type fuse) - inside the bottom end of the downtube, remove
downtube cap to access
In the event of an overload the fuse will pop and need to be
replaced. In this instance replace only with approved part from
Currie Technologies®
!
42
CX Bicycles
RMB Bicycles (2007, 2008)
STB Bicycles (36v)
STB Bicycles (24v)
Enlightened Series (NiMH)
Enlightened Series (Li-Ion)
Risk of fire. Do not bypass fuse.
Wiring Diagram - Via Mezza (TAG system) w/ STB Bicycles
(Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ)
BRAKE LEVER, RIGHT
BRAKE LEVER, LEFT
THROTTLE
FULL
HALF
LOW
BATTERY CASE (Complete)
CONNECTOR IN USE
ON
OFF
E
N
WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY PORT
CONTROLLER
WIRE HARNESS,ADAPTER (DM-E-250C)
SWITCH
L
FUSE
BATTERY
BATTERY
WHEEL, REAR W/ HUB MOTOR
Via Mezza (STB w/ SLA Batteries) Bikes (2008 USA) WIRING DIAGRAM
43
Wiring Diagram - TAG/PAS w/ RMB Bicycles (2007)
(Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ)
CONTROLLER
24v / 35a
S/N 070104525
Make Date 2007-01-17
THROTTLE
ENCLOSED BATTERY BOX
(Box 1 is standard with bike)
(The fuse is accessible externally)
BRAKE INHIBITOR
(Front Brake Lever)
2
FUSE
40a
Glass Type
BATTERY
12V / 10Ah
MOTOR
S/N 245061215135
BATTERY
12V / 10Ah
44
1
3
Wiring Diagram - TAG/PAS w/ RMB Bicycles (2008-)
(Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ)
THROTTLE
ASSIST CONVERTER
(a.k.a. “WHITE BOX”)
BATTERY CASE (Complete)
1:1 ASSIST SENSOR
(a.k.a. “BLACK BOX”)
WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY CASE
2
3
1
CHARGER PORT
BRAKE LEVER, LEFT
Secondardy Battery Box
(optional)
CONTROLLER
BATTERY PORT
FUSE
BATTERY
BATTERY
WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY PORT
MOTOR
BATTERY PORT
WIRE HARNESS, SWITCH
SWITCH
WIRE HARNESS, BATTERY PORT
45
Wiring Diagram - PTS w/ NiMH Battery Bicycles
(Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ)
Rear View of Crankset
(PTS Sensor is removeable from crankset)
Controller
4th pin
not used
ON
Connector
not used
OFF
2
1
3
BATTERY
NiMH
24v / 9a
FUSE
30a
Blade Type
HUB MOTOR
46
Wiring Diagram - PTS w/ Li-Ion Battery Bicycles
(Diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ)
BATTERY
SWITCH
WHEEL, REAR w/ HUB MOTOR
ON
OFF
CHARGER PORT
CONTROLLER
2
1
3
CRANKSET w/ PTS SENSOR
5
BATTERY GAUGE w/ TORQUE ADJUSTER
30
BATTERY GAUGE
POWER ADJUST
Rear View of Crankset
(PTS Sensor is removeable and
available seperate from crankset)
iZip Trekking Li (2007) WIRING DIAGRAM
47
Wiring Diagram - TMM4 w/ Li-Ion Battery Bicycles
(Tentative diagram is for representational purpose only. Your bicycle's wiring system may differ)
BATTERY
SWITCH
WHEEL, REAR w/ HUB MOTOR
ON
OFF
CHARGER PORT
CONTROLLER
2
1
3
TBD
?
TMM4 SENSOR
? TBD
5
BATTERY GAUGE w/ TORQUE ADJUSTER
30
BATTERY GAUGE
POWER ADJUST
TMM4 (Tentative 2008) WIRING DIAGRAM
48
!
Includes 20", 24” and 26" Wheel Mountain Bikes
assembly is the same for men’s and women’s bikes.
We recommend that you consult a bicycle
specialist if you have doubts or concerns
as to your experience or ability to properly
assembly, repair, or maintain your bicycle.
Getting Started
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle
and all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended
that the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated
prior to installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is
complete to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded.
Assemble your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.
Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components
than the ones illustrated.
PART 4 - ASSEMBLY
DERAILLEUR GEARED BICYCLES
Handlebars
Binder Bolt
Stem Bolt
Top Nut
Remove the protective cap from the handlebar stem wedge and loosen
the Allen key bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a
13mm hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar
stem into the top of the head tube, ensuring that all cables are free of
tangles. Tighten the stem bolt observing the minimum insertion mark and
checking that the forks and the handlebars are facing forward. Check
the headset for smooth rotation and that the top nut is secured tightly.
Loosen the 6mm Binder Bolt and rotate the handlebar forward so the
levers are at a 45 degree angle below the handlebar. Retighten the
Binder Bolt to ensure the handlebar does not rotate in the stem.
Minimum Insertion
Mark
Wedge
Head Tube
!
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or
injury to the rider.
49
NOTE: Some models of bicycles may be equipped with a stem that has an adjustable angle. In addition to the normal assembly,
these stems will require angling the stem to the desired position, and securely tightening the 6mm Allen bolt located underneath
the stem. Failure to do this may cause loss of steering control.
Tightening/Preloading Aheadset
Compression Bolt
Handlebar
Top Cap
Stem Cap
Bolts
Stem Clamp Bolts
Spacer
Headset Wedge
Bearing Race
Bearing Dust Cover
Bearing Retainer
Installed
by
factory
Upper Headset Cup
Steerer Tube
Star Nut
(Inside Steerer Tube)
Headtube
Lower Headset Cup
Bearing Retainer
Bearing Dust Cover
Headset Crown Race
fork
50
Stem Cap
Stem Installation (Should be assembled on
the bike already)
1. Insert the compression bolt through the
top cap and the stem. Begin threading
into the star nut.
2. Tighten compression bolt so it removes
all play from the fork, but allows the fork
to rotate smoothly.
3. Align the stem with the front wheel.
Tighten the stem clamp bolts to secure
the stem to the steerer tube.
Handlebar Installation
1. Remove the stem cap bolts and stem
cap.
2. Insert handlebar into the stem cap.
3. Tighten the stem cap bolts equally. Note
the distance between the stem and stem
cap: It should be equal on the top and
bottom of the stem cap. "A" must be
equal distance.
Standard Stem Bolt System
1. Remove the protective shipping cap from the stem wedge.
2. Remove the Stem Plug from the stem. Loosen the Stem Bolt with a
6mm allen wrench or 13mm box wrench.
3. Insert the stem into the headtube of the bicycle. Ensure that the
Minimum Insertion Line is below the top nut of the headset.
4. Align the stem and handlebar so it is in line with the front wheel.
5. Tighten the Stem Bolt with the 6mm allen wrench. Reinsert the Stem
Plug into the stem.
WARNING: MINIMUM INSERTION LINE MUST BE HIDDEN WITHIN THE
HEADTUBE OF THE BICYCLE.
!
If the stem is not inserted into the top nut to at least the
“Minimum Insertion” mark, it is possible to over-tighten
the stem bolt and damage the fork steerer tube. If these
instructions are not followed, it could cause an unsafe
condition and risk injury to the rider. Check steering tightness
prior to riding by straddling the front wheel. Try turning the
handlebar. If you can turn it without turning the front wheel,
the stem is too loose. Re-align the handlebar with the front
wheel and re-tighten the stem bolt.
51
Shifter binder bolt
(2.5 Allen key)
Bar end (5mm Allen key)
Brake lever binder bolt
(5mm Allen key)
1.
Shifters
Tighten all bolts that clamp the shifters, brake levers and bar ends to
the handlebar using a 5mm Allen key or Phillips head screwdriver.
(Figure 1) Handlebar with Grip Shifter.
(Figure 2) Top mounted thumb shifter.
!
52
Failure to properly tighten clamping bolts may cause sudden
movement of the component resulting in loss of steering control.
Forks
Steering Tube
Brake Boss
Drop-out
Crown
There are two different types of forks that vary in styles and
dimensions. One type is a rigid fork (Figure 1) consisting of stationary tubing with curved blades. The other type is a
suspension fork (Figure 2) consisting of inner stanchion tubes
riding on elastomers or springs inside of a straight outer fork
leg. This mechanism acts as a shock absorber with a specified
amount of travel that varies between models. Some suspension
forks are not adjustable and are very difficult to disassemble. If
service is needed on a suspension fork, consult a professional
bicycle repair technician.
Blade
1.
!
Brake Bridge
Crown
Brake Boss
Drop-out
Steering Tube
Fork Blade
Do not attempt to disassemble a suspension fork
yourself. Consult a professional bicycle repair technician.
Check the tightness of the headset and the fork. Rotate the fork
checking for smoothness. If it feels like the fork is
binding, then an adjustment will need to be made to the headset.
Move the fork in a push/pull manner checking for tightness. If
any play is detected, loosen the top nut, adjust the bearing cup,
and retighten the top nut. Recheck the rotation and tightness. If
necessary, readjust until a smooth rotation is achieved without
backward or forward movement. If your bike is equipped with a
suspension fork, check that the fork compresses and rebounds
smoothly. To do this, place the fork dropouts against the ground,
push and release the handlebar. The fork will generally compress
1-2” and rebound quickly. Most elastomer type forks will gradually
soften with use.
2.
53
Seat and Seat Post
Seat
Clamp
Seat
Post
Adjusting
Nut
Quick
Release
Attach
Seat Here
Boot
Minimum
Insertion
Mark
Preload adjusting
screw on underside
54
Insert this
end into
frame
Attach the seat to the seat post by loosening the nuts on the seat clamp.
Insert the tapered end of the seat post into the seat clamp until it is at the
top of the clamp. Partially tighten the nuts on the seat clamp until the seat
is snug, but can still be turned. Insert the seat assembly into the frame of
the bicycle and adjust the seat to the proper height. The seat post must be
inserted to at least the “Minimum Insertion” line marked on the seat post.
If equipped with a quick release skewer; tighten the adjusting nut by hand
and move the quick release lever to the closed position. You should feel
considerable resistance while moving the lever. If not, re-open and re-tighten
the lever, then move it to the closed position so it is in line with the frame
as pictured. If equipped with a binder clamp; Insure the lip on the binder
clamp is fitted completely against the top of the seat tube of the frame. With
the seat post inserted, tighten the binder bolt securely. Position the top of
the seat parallel with the ground. Push the front of the seat up and down to
firmly mesh the serrations together. The serrations must mesh completely
together to insure a stabilized riding position. Securely tighten the nut on the
seat clamp. If there is a nut on both sides of the clamp, tighten each one by
alternating from one to the other. Check for tightness by twisting the seat from
side to side, and from front to back. If the seat moves at the seat clamp or
quick release, reposition and re-tighten the appropriate clamping mechanism.
NOTE: Some models of bicycles may be equipped with a suspension seat
post (See Diagram-bottom left). Some suspension posts can be adjusted
for stiffness using the preload adjusting screw. Turning the 6mm Allen screw
Clockwise will decrease travel and make the suspension stiffer, while turning
the 6mm Allen screw Counter-clockwise will increase travel and make the
suspension softer.
!
The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum insertion
mark cannot be seen. The quick release mechanism must be
tightened securely to prevent a sudden shift of the seat when
riding. Failure to do this may cause loss of bicycle control.
Note: In addition to normal assembly, please be aware that the preload
adjusting screw must be flush with the bottom of the post. Some bicycles
may come equipped with a shim that should be positioned over the lower
half of the seat post and inserted into the seat tube of the frame. Failure to
do this may cause irreparable damage.
Pedals & Crank Set
Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal
spindle. Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads.
Tighten with a 15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right
hand pedal attaches to the chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand
(clockwise) thread. The left pedal attaches to the other crank arm and has
a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It is very important that you check
the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness before riding your
bicycle. New cranks may become loose with initial use, refer to pages 105108 for proper crank set adjustment and maintenance. Once the pedals
have been installed, remove the dust caps from the center of each crank
arm. Using a 14mm socket wrench, tighten the spindle nuts securely
(approx. 350 in. lbs.) and replace the dust caps.
Dust
Cap
!
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm can
strip pedal threads and cause irreparable damage. Before
your first ride, please check to insure your pedals are
attached correctly.
55
Front Wheel
Quick Release
Adjusting Axle
Nut
Hub
Axle
Quick
Release
Lever
Hub
Closed Position
Spring
Check the wheel hub before attaching it to the fork by rotating the
threaded axle. It should be smooth with no lateral movement. Insert
the front wheel into the fork dropouts. Tighten the wheel nuts using
the appropriate 14mm or 15mm wrench. Spin the wheel checking for
trueness. Some bicycles have wheel axles that incorporate a Quick
Release (QR) mechanism. This allows easy wheel removal without the
need for tools. The mechanism uses a long bolt with an adjusting nut
on one end, and a lever operating a cam-action tensioner on the other.
If the wheel is fitted with a Quick Release type axle, turn the adjusting
nut so that the locking lever is moved to the closed position with a firm
action. At the halfway closed position of the quick release lever, you
should start to feel some resistance to this motion. Do not tighten the
quick release by using the quick release lever like a wing nut. If the
quick release lever is moved to the closed position with no resistance,
clamping strength is insufficient. Move the quick release lever to the
open position, tighten the quick release adjusting nut, and return the
quick release lever to the closed position.
Correct Quick Release Axle Setting (if equipped)
1. To set, turn the lever to the open position so that the curved
part faces away from the bicycle.
2. While holding the lever in one hand, tighten the adjusting nut until
it stops.
3. Pivot the lever towards the closed position. When the lever is
halfway closed, there must be firm resistance to turn it beyond
that point. If resistance is not firm, open the lever and tighten the
adjusting nut in a clockwise direction.
4. Continue to pivot the lever all the way to the closed position
so that the curved part of the lever faces the bicycle.
Open Position
!
56
The quick release must be very tight in its closed position and
unable to vibrate loose while riding.
5. The wheel is tightly secured when the serrated surfaces of the
quick release clamping parts actually begin to cut into the bicycle
frame/fork surfaces.
6. Note that the same procedure applies when operating a quick
release seat post binder mechanism.
!
If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping
your fingers around the fork blade for leverage, and the
lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of you
hand, the tension is insufficient. Open the lever, tighten the
adjusting nut, and try again. Continue until the QR lever
closes properly. Secondary retention devices are not a
substitute for a correct quick release adjustment. Failure to
properly adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the
wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause you to
lose control and fall, resulting in serous injury or death.
Rear Wheel
!
Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts or the quick release
mechanism securely. Failure to do this may cause the rear
wheel to dislodge from the frame dropouts resulting in
serious damage or injury.
QUICK RELEASE LEVERS
It is important to check the quick release levers before every ride to ensure
all connections are made properly and securely.
!
Periodically, disassemble the mechanism from the
bicycle and inspect for any wear or damage and replace if
necessary. When reinstalling, it is very important to ensure
the connections are made properly.
57
Front Brake
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to
the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake
adjustment and maintenance, refer to pages 74-77.
Outer
Cable
Lead
V-Style Brakes
Brake
Cable
Boot
Brake
Noodle
Anchor
Bolt
Brake
Arm
Pivot
Bolt
58
Brake
Shoe
Tension
Screw
If not already assembled, take the brake noodle from the parts box and
slide the cable through the larger opening. The cable housing will then
seat into the end of the noodle. Slide the cable through the cable lead
on the end of the left brake arm, this will cause the noodle to fit into the
lead. Slip the brake cable boot over the cable and position it between
both brake arms. Next, loosen the 5mm anchor bolt at the end of the
right brake arm and slide the cable under the retaining washer. Pull the
slack out of the cable making sure a distance of 39mm or more remains
between the end of the lead and the start of the anchor bolt. Once the
cable is secured to the brake arms, engage the brake lever several times,
checking the position of the brake shoes at the rim. The brake shoes
should be 1mm away from the rim when in a relaxed position. When the
brake lever is engaged, the brake shoe should hit the rim flush (never the
tire) with the front of the brake pad touching the rim slightly before the rear.
This is called “toeing-in” your brake shoe. If this position is not achieved,
adjustments to the brake shoe are required. Loosen the brake shoe
hardware and reposition the brake shoe. It may take several shoe and
cable adjustments before the required position is accomplished.
V - Brake
1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake body into
the center spring hole in the frame mounting
boss, and then secure the brake body to the
frame with the link fixing bolt.
2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the
position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm and 3 mm) so that
dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
39 mm or more
A
5 mm Allen key
3 mm washer B 6 mm washer B
Shoe fixing nut
Washer
Link
fixing
bolt
Spring
hole
Spring pin
Washer
Washer A
Shoe fixing link
Washer A
59
3. While holding the shoe against the
rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.
5. Adjust the balance with the spring
tension adjustment screws.
shoe fixing nut
1mm
5 mm Allen key
1 mm 1 mm
Spring tension
adjustment screw
4. Pass the inner cable through the inner
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance
of 1mm between each brake pad and the
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.
Spring tension
adjustment screw
6. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as
far as the grip to check that everything is
operating correctly and that the shoe
clearance is correct before riding the bike.
Depress about
10 times
5 mm Allen key
1mm 1mm
60
Check your Brakes
Press each brake lever to make sure that there is no binding and that the brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop
the bike. The brake pads should be adjusted so they are 1 mm to 2 mm away from the rim when the brakes are not applied.
Brake pads should be centered on the rim and “toed-in” so the rear portion of each brake pad is about 0.5 - 1.0 mm farther
from the rim than the front portion of the brake pad.
Brake pad aligned with the rim surface
Pad and rim should be parallel.
Direction of rim
rotation
1- 2 mm
0.5 - 1.0 mm
!
Do not ride the bicycle until the brakes are functioning
properly. To test, apply the brakes while trying to push
the bike forward to make sure they will stop the bicycle.
Never ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.
!
Do not lock up brakes. Sudden or excessive application
of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars,
causing serious injury or death. When braking, always
apply the rear brake first, then the front.
61
Disc Brakes (if equipped)
Brake Cable
Housing
Barrel Adjuster
Lock Nut
Brake Lever
Cable
Insertion
Slot
Brake Cable
“C” Clip
Cable End
Holder
Brake Type
Selector
Rotating Rod
Caliper
Mounting
Bolt with
spacers
If fitted with a front disc brake, the components should already be
attached. However, please check all connections before attempting
to ride the bicycle. Secure tightly the 6 bolts that hold the disc to the
front wheel hub and the 2 bolts that hold the brake mechanism to
the fork. Insert the front wheel into the fork dropouts ensuring that the
disc fits into the brake mechanism between the enclosed brake pads.
Secure the front wheel to the bicycle by tightening the quick release
mechanism and clamping the lever to the closed position. Please refer
to section 6 for further instruction on quick release mechanisms.
Next, attach the cable to the brake lever by inserting the cable end
into the cable end holder after the barrel adjuster and lock nut slots
have been aligned with the cable end holder. After the cable is
secured to the lever, rotate the barrel adjuster and lock nut so the
slots no longer line up. Ensure the cable housing seats appropriately
into the end of the barrel adjuster and check for any kinks or damage.
Slide the exposed brake cable through the rotating rod/housing stop
located on the caliper body and seat the housing all the way into the
same stop. Insert the cable into the spring and spring boot.
Actuating Arm
Next, slide the cable through the cable anchor and pull all the slack
out. Secure the cable in place by tightening the bolts that comprise
the anchor assembly. Some disc brakes will have a centering devise
while others are a free-floating mechanism. If your caliper body is
equipped with centering bolts, apply the brake lever after the cable has
been connected. While engaging the lever, tighten the centering bolts
securely. This will center the caliper body on the disc.
Brake Pads
Caliper
Mounting
Bolt with
spacers
62
Cable Anchor
Bolt
!
DISC GETS HOT! Severe injury could result from
contact with the hot disc! Mind your legs, as well
as your hands.
Hub
Fork Leg
Centering Bolt
Disc Mounting
Bolts
Brake Cable
Housing
Rotating
Rod
Caliper
Body
Disc
Cable Boot
with Spring
inside
Centering Bolt (inside)
Actuating
Arm
Cable Anchor
Bolt
Fork Drop Out
Quick Release
lever
!
Caliper Mounting
Bolts with spacers
These brakes require breaking in! Ride and use the brakes gently for 13 miles before using the brakes
in downhill conditions, for sudden stops, or any other serious braking. Please be aware that your brake
system will change in performance throughout the wear-in process. The disc brake should be cleaned
before the first ride using rubbing alcohol. NEVER use oil or similar products to clean your disc brake
system.
Avoid touching the rotor (disc) with your fingers at any time. Naturally oily fingers can contaminate the
rotor and/or the brake pads and diminish the brake’s effectiveness.
63
Derailleur
Freewheel
Pulley Adjustment
Screw
Rear Derailleur
Begin by shifting the rear shifter to largest number indicated,
disconnect the cable from the rear derailleur cable anchor bolt,
and place the chain on the smallest sprocket.
Guide Pulley
Adjustment
Screws
Tension Pulley
Cable Barrel
Adjuster
High Gear
Adjustment Screw
Low Gear
Adjustment
Screw
Although the front and rear derailleurs are initially adjusted at the
factory, you will need to inspect and readjust both before riding
the bicycle.
Adjust the High limit screw so the guide pulley and the
smallest sprocket are lined up vertically. Reconnect the cable,
pull out any slack, and retighten the anchor bolt securely. Shift
through the gears, making sure each gear achieved is done
quietly and without hesitation. If necessary, use the barrel
adjuster to fine tune the cable tension by turning it the direction
you want the chain to go. For example, turning clockwise will
loosen the cable tension and move the chain away from the
wheel, while turning counter-clockwise will tighten cable
tension and direct the chain towards the wheel. Shift the rear
shifter to the gear one and place the chain on the largest cog.
H
Adjust the Low limit screw in quarter turn increments until the
guide pulley and the largest cog are aligned vertically. Again,
shift through each gear several times, checking that each gear is
achieved smoothly. It may take several attempts before the rear
derailleur and cable is adjusted properly.
L
Barrel
Adjuster
Rear Derailleur Side View
64
!
Ensure all bolts are secured tightly and the chain
does not fall off in either direction.
Low Adjusting Screw
Cable Anchor Bolt
Derailleur Cage
High Adjusting
Screw
Chainguide
clearance of
1-3mm
Front Derailleur
Shift both shifters to the smallest number indicated and place the
chain on the corresponding cog and chainwheel. Disconnect the front
derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt. Check the position of the front
derailleur; it should be parallel with the outer chainwheel and clear the
largest chainwheel by 1-3mm when fully engaged.
With the chain on the smallest chainwheel in front and the largest cog
in back, adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is centered in the front
derailleur cage. Reconnect the cable, pull any slack out, and tighten the
anchor bolt securely. Shift the front shifter to the largest chainwheel.
If the chain does not go onto the largest chainwheel, turn the high limit
screw in 1/4 turn increments counter-clockwise until the chain engages
the largest chainwheel. If the chain falls off the largest chainwheel, and
into the pedals, you will need to turn the High limit screw in 1/4 turn
increments clockwise until the chain no longer falls off.
Shift through every gear, using the barrel adjusters to fine tune the
cable tension. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is located on
the front shifter where the cable comes out of the shifter. Clockwise will
loosen the cable tension and direct the chain closer to the frame while
counter-clockwise will tighten the cable tension and direct the chain
away from the frame.
!
Do not ride a bicycle that is not shifting properly. Overlooking proper adjustments may cause
irreparable damage to the bicycle and/or bodily
injury. Never move the shifter while pedaling
backward, nor pedal backwards after having
moved the shifter. This could jam the chain and
cause serious damage to the bicycle and/or
rider.
65
Dual Suspension
Dual Suspension bikes (DS) are equipped with a front fork as
well as a rear suspension generally located below the seat. The
piston works in conjunction with a spring to allow the bike to
rotate on a pivot point. Ensure all attaching hardware is secured
and there is no lateral movement of the rear swingarm. The
stiffness of the Rear Suspension can be adjusted by turning the
adjusting plate. Clockwise will increase spring tension, while
turning counter-clockwise will decrease spring tension. There
are many different types of suspension systems-too many to
deal with individually in this manual.
!
Spring
Spring plate
Anchor bolt
Adjusting plate
Piston
66
There must be enough tension on the spring
to hold the spring plate in place. Failure to do
this may cause the mechanism to fail. Failure
to maintain, check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction, which can cause you to lose control
and fall. Changing suspension adjustment can
change the handling and braking characteristics of you bicycle. Never change suspension
adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar
with the suspension system, manufacturer’s
instructions and recommendations, and always
check for changes in the performance of your
bicycle by taking a careful test ride in a hazard
free area. If your bike has suspension equipment, the increased speed you may develop also
increases your risk. When braking, the front of a
suspended bike dips. You could lose control and
fall if your skill is not up to handling this system.
Get to know how to handle your suspension system safely before trying any downhill or very fast
biking.
3
Rear Pivots
2
1
1. Attaching Bolt
2. Bushing
3. Shaft
2
3
1
1
The pivot assembly is a simple mechanism that allows the
rear swingarm to move up and down in combination with
a rear suspension. Size, shape, and compounds will vary
between models; however, operating principles are the
same. A shaft will pivot inside of two bushings secured in
place with bolts. Pivots should be kept clean and free from
dirt and should be disassembled and re-greased at least
once every riding season. Please note the drive side crank
arm must be removed from the spindle before attempting to
work on the pivot. Some models have two, small (2.5mm)
Allen bolts on the underside of the bottom bracket shell.
These must be removed before attempting to disassemble the
pivot. After disassembling and cleaning, the shaft of the pivot
assembly should be lightly coated with lithium-based grease,
as well as the bushings and the threads of the attaching
hardware. Please remember: Never use WD-40™ to grease
components. It is a degreaser that will not provide required
lubrication and has a tendency to attract dust.
3
1. Pivot Assembly
2. Bottom Bracket Cup & Lockring
3. Swingarm
2
67
Accessories
Saddle Bag
Frame Bag
Reflector
Reflector
If your bike is supplied with a water bottle and cage, attach the
cage to the bicycle using the Allen bolts provided.
Some bikes come equipped with a saddle bag or frame bag.
The saddle bag installs under the seat with the zipper facing
the rear wheel. Undo the straps that wrap around the bag,
thread them through the rails underneath the seat and secure
around the bag. The smaller strap wraps around the seat
post. Frame bags install at the apex of the top and seat tubes.
Secure the straps around each tube.
NOTE: The frame bag straps must not bind the cables. The
straps must go around the frame only.
Reflector
Water bottle and cage
Other: Some 20” and 24” model bicycles come with a rear
derailleur guard to protect the rear derailleur from damage. To
install, remove the rear wheel axle nut on the drive side, install
the rear derailleur guard over the axle with the U-shaped guard
pointing down, and retighten the axle nut. The guard will sit
between the frame and the axle nut.
68
figure 1
Fenders
Front Fender
The front fender is mounted at the fork crown. There are two
ways in which to mount your front fender. The first is the caliper
brake mounting system (see figure 1), and the second is the
10mm nut and bolt system (see figure 2). Identify the mounting
system used on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for
that particular type of mounting system.
1. Caliper Brake Mounting System
First remove the front wheel from your bicycle. Remove
the
hex nut from the caliper brake bolt on the rear of the
fork, and slide the brake assembly from the fork. Place the
fender assembly onto the fork making sure the attachment
holes and fender bracket holes line up. Reattach the caliper
brake making sure that the brake arms are on each side of the
fender. Tighten the bolt until secure.
figure 2
2. 10mm Nut and Bolt Mounting System
First remove the front wheel from your bicycle. Place the
fender assembly onto the fork making sure the attachment
holes and fender bracket holes line up. Attach the fender with
the 10mm hex bolt and nut. Tighten the bolt until secure.
69
Rear Fender
The rear fender is mounted at the seatstay brace. There are two
ways in which to mount your rear fender. The first is the screw
mounting system (see figure 3), and the second is the 10mm bolt
and screw system (see figure 4). Identify the mounting system used
on your bicycle and follow the given instructions for that particular
type of mounting system.
figure 3
1. Screw Mounting System
First remove the rear wheel. Place the fender assembly between
the stays, making sure the fender bracket holes line up with those
in the frame. Attach the fender by using two screws to directly
mount the fender onto the frame. The mounts are located below
the seat post and near the rear of the crank. Tighten all screws
until snug.
2. 10mm Bolt and Screw System
First remove the rear wheel. Place the fender assembly between
the stays, making sure the fender bracket holes line up with those
in the frame. Attach the fender by using one screw to directly
mount the fender onto the frame near the crank. Next, use the
10mm hex bolt and nut to attach the fender to the brace between
the seat stays, near the seat post. Tighten all bolts and screws
until snug.
figure 4
70
Final Check
•
After all adjustments have been made, shift through
every gear several times at varying speeds. This will
ensure all your adjustments are correct and will allow
you to pinpoint any trouble areas. If you encounter any
problems, refer to the appropriate section and make any
necessary adjustments.
•
Check the tire pressure and inflate each tube to the
recommended psi as stated on the sidewall of the tire.
•
Check that the kickstand operates smoothly and the
kickstand bolt is secured tightly.
•
Finally, examine the bicycle. Make sure all accessories
are attached and all quick releases, nuts and bolts have
been tightened securely.
•
Correct maintenance of your bicycle will ensure many
years of happy riding. Service your bicycle regularly by
referring to the relevant sections of this manual, OR
take it to a professional bicycle shop.
•
Remember: Always wear a helmet and obey all traffic
laws.
!
!
Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum
pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall.
Exceeding the recommended pressure
may blow the tire off the rim, which
could cause damage to the bicycle and
injury to the rider and bystanders.
Tighten both rear wheel axle nuts or the
quick release mechanism securely. Failure to do this may cause the rear wheel
to dislodge from the frame dropouts
resulting in serious damage or injury.
71
SINGLE SPEED & BMX
Includes 16" and 20" BMX Bikes
Assembly is the same for boy’s and girl’s bikes.
Foreword: Assembling a bicycle is an important responsibility.
Proper assembly not only gives the rider more enjoyment of the
bicycle; it also offers an important measure of safety.
Getting Started
Stem Cap Binder Bolts
Open the carton from the top and remove the bicycle. Remove the
straps and protective wrapping from the bicycle. Inspect the bicycle and
all accessories and parts for possible shortages. It is recommended that
the threads and all moving parts in the parts package be lubricated prior to
installation. Do not discard packing materials until assembly is complete
to insure that no required parts are accidentally discarded. Assemble
your bicycle following the steps that pertain to your model.
Note: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style components than
the ones illustrated.
Stem
Bolt
Handlebars
Minimum
Insertion Mark
Stem Wedge
Head
Tube
Four Bolt
Face
Plate
72
Six Bolt
Face
Plate
four bolt
six bolt face plate
Remove the protective cap from the stem wedge and loosen the stem
bolt using the 6mm Allen key. Some models may use a 13mm
hexagonal bolt instead of an Allen key bolt. Place the handlebar stem
into the head tube, observing the minimum insertion mark on the
handlebar stem and ensuring that all cables are free of tangles. Check
that the fork and the handlebar are facing forward, and that they are
properly aligned with the front wheel. Tighten the stem bolt. Rotate the
handlebar to the desired position. Tighten stem cap bolt 1 (see picture)
two turns, tighten stem cap bolt 2 two turns and so on. Repeat until
handle bar is secure to the stem. See picture for a 4 or 6-bolt system.
Also check that the stem binder bolts are tightened equally and securely.
!
The handlebar must be inserted so that the minimum
insertion mark cannot be seen. WARNING: Over
tightening the stem bolt or headset assembly may cause
damage to the bicycle and/or injury to the rider.
Seat
Loosen nut on the seat clamp and add 3 or 4 drops of oil onto the threads
of the bolt. Place the smaller end of the seat post into the seat clamp until
it stops with the bolt to the rear of the seat post. Thread the nut on the seat
clamp loosely. Insert the larger end of the seat post into the seat tube of
the bicycle frame observing the minimum insertion mark on the seat post.
Position the top surface of the seat parallel with the ground. The serrations on
the seat clamp must mesh completely with the seat frame serrations, push the
front of the seat up and down to align the serrations. Securely tighten the seat
clamp. Securely tighten the bolts on the seat post clamp.
!
The seat post must be inserted so that the minimum
insertion mark cannot be seen.
Pedals & Crank Set
Look for the letters “R” for right, and “L” for left, stamped on each pedal spindle.
Start each pedal spindle by hand to avoid stripping the threads. Tighten with a
15mm narrow open ended wrench. Note that the right hand pedal attaches to the
chainwheel side crank arm with a right-hand (clockwise) thread. The left pedal
attaches to the other crank arm and has a left-hand (counter-clockwise) thread. It
is very important that you check the crank set for correct adjustment and tightness
before riding your bicycle. New cranks may become loose with initial use, refer
to pages 103-106 for proper crank set adjustment and maintenance. Once the
pedals have been attached, check that the crank arm rotates smoothly and that
there is no lateral movement.
!
Attachment of an incorrect pedal into a crank arm will
cause irreparable damage to the crank, the pedal or both.
73
Axle Nut
Front Wheel
Retaining
Washer
Axle
Hub
Cone Nuts
Fork Drop Out
Step
Retaining
Washer
1. Make sure the brakes are loose enough to allow the wheel to
pass through the brake pads easily.
2. Place wheel into fork drop outs.
3. Install retaining washers with raised lip pointed towards the
fork, and insert into the small hole of the fork blade. NOTE:
Some bikes may have step retaining washers in place of the
retaining washer (shown in dotted box). If so, install the step
retaining washer, raised portion sliding in to the fork dropouts.
4. Install axle nut and tighten. Make sure the wheel is centered
between the fork blades.
5. Spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered and clears the
brake shoes. Tighten the brakes if necessary.
6. Turn the bicycle upright using the kickstand to support it.
!
Brake Lever
Nipple
Ferrule
It is very important to check the front wheel
connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly
tighten may cause the front wheel to dislodge.
Front Brake
Determine which type of brake your bike is equipped with and refer to
the appropriate assembly instructions. For more information on brake
adjustment and maintenance, refer to pages 99-102. A greater force
is required to activate the rear brake due to longer cable length. It is
advisable to mount the rear brake on the side of the stronger hand.
It is important to become familiar with the use of hand brakes. When
properly adjusted, hand brakes are an efficient braking system. Keep
the rim and brake shoes clean and free from wax, lubricants and dirt
at all times. Keep brakes properly adjusted and in good working
condition at all times.
Cable
Adjusting
Barrel
Grip
74
Handlebar
Open the brake lever and place the nipple end of the short brake
cable into the lever, then close the lever. Secure the ferrule against
the lever using the cable adjusting barrel.
Side Pull
Brakes
Cable
Adjusting
Barrel
Center Bolt
Brake
Arm
Fixing Nut
in Back
Cable
Anchor
Nut
Brake Shoe
Side Pull Brake
Loosen the cable anchor nut and thread the brake cable through it.
Tighten the nut by hand until it holds the cable in place. Squeeze the
brake arms together against the rim of the wheel. Loosen the nuts on the
brake shoes and turn until they match the angle of the rim. Tighten the
nuts securely. Pull down on the end of the brake cable with pliers, hold
taut and securely tighten the cable anchor nut.
Spin the wheel, the brake shoes should not contact the rim at any point
and should be an equal distance from the rim on both sides. Make sure
all nuts and bolts are securely tightened. Test the brake levers 20-25
times to take care of any initial cable stretch. Be sure to
tightly secure the brake fixing nut behind the fork.
!
When assembling or adjusting the brakes, make
sure the cable anchor is tight. Failure to securely
tighten the nut could result in brake failure and
personal injury.
75
V-Style Brake
1. If fitted with V-Brakes, insert the brake spring
into the center spring hole in the frame mounting
boss, and then secure the brake body to the
frame with the pin fixing bolt.
2. While holding the shoe against the rim, adjust the
amount of shoe protrusion by interchanging the
position of the B washers (i.e. 6 mm or 3 mm) so that
dimension A is kept at 39 mm or more.
39 mm or more
A
5 mm Allen key
3 mm washer B 6 mm washer B
Shoe fixing nut
Washer
Link
fixing
bolt
Spring
hole
Spring pin
76
Washer
Washer A
Shoe fixing link
Washer A
3. While holding the shoe against
the rim, tighten the shoe fixing nut.
5. Adjust the balance with the spring
tension adjustment screws.
5 mm Allen key
1 mm
1 mm 1 mm
Spring tension
adjustment screw
4. Pass the inner cable through the inner
cable lead. Set the cable with a clearance
of 1mm between each brake pad and the
rim, tighten the cable fixing bolt.
Spring tension
adjustment screw
6. Depress the brake lever about 10 times as
far as the grip and check that everything is
operating correctly and that the shoe clearance
is correct before riding the bike.
Depress about
10 times
5 mm Allen key
B C
B + C = 2 mm
77
Rotors
Some freestyle BMX bicycles come equipped with a cable detangler
system that will allow the handlebar to spin 360-degrees without
binding the cables. It is very important that this system is adjusted
correctly. Installation should only be done by a qualified bicycle
mechanic with the correct tools.
Upper Cable
1. First connect the barrel end of the upper cable to the rear
brake lever. Make sure the long cable casing is on top of the
short cable casing; otherwise, the upper cable will have a twist
in it.
2. Route the upper cable through the handlebars (below the
crossbar) with the short cable casing on the same side as the
rear brake lever.
3. Connect the upper cable to the upper plate by passing the
football ends of the upper cable through the threaded holes in
the upper plate and connecting them to the bearing.
4. Screw the adjusting barrels into the upper plate. Don’t
tighten the locknuts at this time.
Lower Cable
1. Slide the cable casing through the cable guide on the frame.
2. Connect the lower cable to the lower plate by passing the
football ends of the lower cable through the threaded holes in
the lower plate and connecting them to the bearing.
3. Screw the adjusting barrels into the lower plate. Don’t tighten
the locknuts at this time.
4. Connect the lower cable to the rear brake. Don’t adjust the
rear brake at this time.
NOTE: Check to make sure all 11 cable casing ends on the
upper and lower cables are seated correctly, and that the spring
tension of the rear brake is pulling the bearing down.
Adjustment
1. Screw the cable adjusters on the rear brake lever and the
upper cable splitter all the way in.
78
2. Screw the adjusting barrels in the upper plate in (or out) to set the
bearing for maximum travel. The bearing should be as far down
as it can go without resting on the lower plate or the adjusting
barrels screwed into the lower plate.
3. Use the adjusting barrels that are screwed into the upper plate
to make the bearing parallel to the upper plate. Use a 10mm
wrench to tighten the locknut on the left adjusting barrel of the
upper cable. Leave the right adjusting barrel loose.
4. Screw the lower cable adjusting barrel into (or out of) the
lower plate until they are as close to the bearing as they can
get without touching it.
5. Screw the cable adjuster on the upper cable splitter out
until all slack is removed from the upper cable. Then screw
the cable adjuster out one more turn to raise the bearing an
additional 1mm away from the lower cable adjusting barrels.
CAUTION: Don’t screw the cable adjuster on the upper cable
splitter out more than 8mm. Use the cable adjuster on the rear
brake lever if more adjustment is needed.
6. Check for bearing flop by placing the handlebars in the normal
riding position, then quickly rotate the handlebars back and
forth. Perform the following steps to eliminate bearing flop.
NOTE: The bearing should never be allowed to rest on the
lower plate or lower cable adjusting barrels.
a) Screw the lower cable adjusting barrels out of (or into)
the lower plate until all bearing flop is eliminated.
b) Tighten the locknut of the right adjusting barrel on the
lower cable.
c) Rotate the handlebars 180 degrees and recheck for
bearing flop. If there is any bearing flop, use the “loose”
adjusting barrels on the upper and lower cable to remove it.
d) Repeat steps (6a) and (6c) until the handlebars can be
rotated 360 degrees without any bearing flop.
7. Finish adjusting the rear brakes.
Failure to adjust correctly may result in
loss of braking power and personal injury.
!
Single Cable Casing
Cable Adjuster
Cable Splitter
Upper Cable
(long casing)
Barrel End
Upper Cable
(short casing)
Adjusting Barrel
Upper Plate
37mm + or - 1mm
Bearing
Football Ends
Lower Plate
Lower Cable
Locknut
Set for Max. Travel
Keyed Washer
Minimum 1mm (1/32”)
Locknut
Adjusting Barrel
79
Non-Threaded
Axle Peg Assembly Instructions
Non-Threaded
First remove the axle nut from the wheel. There will be either a
retaining washer or a step retaining washer included. Place this
washer between the peg and the frame of the bicycle. Slide the
peg onto the axle, followed by a flat washer and lastly the axle nut.
Tighten the axle nut clockwise until the peg fits snugly against the
frame or fork. Repeat for all the remaining pegs.
Threaded
Threaded
This style of peg is threaded to fit the axle. Make sure the axle
nut is tight with a 15mm wrench. Place a screw driver through
the mounting holes of the peg and attach the peg to the axle by
turning clockwise. Tighten against the frame or fork for a snug fit.
Repeat for all the remaining pegs.
PLEASE NOTE: Not all axles are able to accept axle pegs.
Please consult the Currie Technologies® Service Department
if you have any questions. Some BMX bicycles come with
two or four pegs. If your bicycle is a Dirt Jumping style
bicycle, you will receive only two pegs. These are designed
for the front wheel. Freestyle bicycles come with four pegs,
two for each wheel.
80
Training Wheels
There are two options when attaching the training wheels
to the wheel brace. Determine which option is used on your
bicycle and follow the given instructions for that option.
Option 1
First attach the training wheels to the wheel brace. Position
a washer on the shoulder bolt. Next, insert the shoulder
bolt through the wheel. Follow with another flat washer then
completely thread a hex nut onto the shoulder bolt. Insert the
shoulder bolt through the wheel brace and set the washer
on the shoulder bolt. Lock the training wheel into place by
screwing another hex nut onto the shoulder bolt. Repeat for
both training wheels.
Option 1
Option 2
First attach the training wheels to the wheel brace. Insert the
shoulder bolt through the wheel. Follow with a flat washer.
Insert the shoulder bolt through the wheel brace and set the
washer on the shoulder bolt. Lock the training wheel into place
by screwing another hex nut onto the shoulder bolt. Repeat for
both training wheels.
Option 2
!
It is very important to check the training wheel
connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly
tighten may cause the training wheel to dislodge. Please contact Currie Technologies®
Service with any questions.
81
Attaching Training Wheel Brace to Bicycle
There are two different braces used to attach the training
wheels to the bicycle: the C-Shape Brace and the Flat Brace.
Determine which brace was included with your bicycle and
follow the given instructions for that particular brace.
C-Shape
C-Shape Brace
Remove the axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.
Place the brace stabilizer washer onto the axle and align the
washer so that the notch on the washer fits into the rear frame
drop out. Next, place the C-shaped wheel brace onto the axle
and replace the washer and axle nut. Tighten the axle nut
securely, making sure that the wheel brace stays in the proper
vertical position. The elongated hole on the wheel brace allows
the training wheel height to be adjusted for proper fit.
Flat Brace
Remove the axle nut and washer from the rear wheel axle.
Place the flat wheel brace onto the axle. Next place the brace
stabilizer washer onto the axle and align it so that the notch
fits into the rear frame drop out. Replace the washer and axle
nut. Tighten the axle nut securely, making sure that the wheel
brace stays in the proper vertical position. The elongated hole
on the wheel brace allows the training wheel height to be
adjusted for proper fit.
Flat
82
Training Wheel Stabilizer Bracket
Your bicycle may include a stabilizer bracket to attach the training
wheel to the bicycle.
First remove the nut and washer from the rear wheel axle. Align
the stabilizer bracket onto the brace. Align the brace and stabilizer
bracket on the wheel axle. Replace the axle nut and washer, secure
tightly. The elongated hole on the brace allows for raising and
lowering the training wheel to the proper height.
NOTICE: Not all bicycles will accept training wheels. If your bike
did not come stock with training wheels, please call Currie Technologies® to help determine if after-market training wheels can be
attached.
!
It is very important to check the training wheel
connection to the bicycle. Failure to properly
tighten may cause the training wheel to dislodge.
Please contact Currie Technologies® Customer
Service Department with any questions.
83
Final Check
Install any additional parts that are supplied with your bike.
Pads
NOTE: Your bicycle may be equipped with different style
components than the ones illustrated.
Reflectors: Attach the white reflector to the front bracket and the
red reflector to the rear bracket using an 8mm wrench or a Phillips
head screwdriver. Attach the brackets to the bicycle using the hardware
provided. For some models, the front reflector bracket will be mounted on
the front brake assembly bolt that fits through the fork. It is important
to make sure all connections are tightened securely and that the
reflectors are properly angled.
Pads: If your bike is supplied with pads, wrap the foam inner cushion
around the appropriate bar. Place the outer cover over the inner
cushion and press the Velcro together securely. Turn the pad so the
Velcro faces the ground.
Front
Reflector
(White)
Rear
Reflector
(Red)
Chainguards: If not already attached, attach the chainguard to the
bicycle frame using the clamps provided. Secure in place making sure
the guard does not bind or get caught on the chain.
Tire Pressure: Check tire pressure, inflate to the range
recommended on the tire sidewalls.
Pegs: There are many different types of pegs-too many to deal
with individually in this manual. Please see your dealer for specific
information regarding peg installation.
Chainguard
84
!
Before riding, ensure all nuts, bolts and fittings
on the bicycle have been correctly tightened.
Every time you ride your bicycle, its condition changes. The more you ride, the more frequently maintenance will be required.
We recommend you spend a little time on regular maintenance tasks. The following schedules are a useful guide and by
referring to Part 6 of this manual, you should be able to accomplish most tasks. If you require assistance, we recommend you
see a bicycle specialist.
Schedule 1 - Lubrication
Frequency
Component
Lubricant
How to Lubricate
Weekly
Chain
Chain Lube or Light Oil
Brush On or Squirt
Derailleur Pulleys
Chain Lube or Light Oil
Brush On or Squirt
Derailleurs
Oil
Oil Can
Brake Calipers
Oil
3 drops from oil can
Brake Levers
Oil
2 drops from oil can
Monthly
Shift Levers
Lithium Based Grease
Disassemble
Every Six Months
Freewheel
Oil
2 squirts from oil can
Brake Cables
Lithium Based Grease
Disassemble
Bottom Bracket
Lithium Based Grease
Disassemble
Pedals
Lithium Based Grease
Disassemble
Derailleur Cables
Lithium Based Grease
Disassemble
Wheel Bearings
Lithium Based Grease
Disassemble
Headset
Lithium Based Grease
Disassemble
Seat Post
Lithium Based Grease
Disassemble
Yearly
PART 5 - SERVICING
Correct routine maintenance of your new bike will ensure smooth running - Longer
lasting components - Safer riding - Lower running costs
Note: The frequency of maintenance should increase with use in wet or dusty conditions. Do not over
lubricate - remove excess lubricant to prevent dirt build up. Never use a degreaser to lubricate your chain (WD-40™)
85
Schedule 2 - Service Checklist
Frequency
Task
Before every ride
Be sure batteries are fully charged
Check tire pressure
Check brake operation
Check wheels for loose spokes
After every ride
35-40
89
99-102
88
Perform safety check
18-19
Be sure to fully charge batteries
35-40
Quick wipe down with damp cloth
29
Weekly
Lubrication as per schedule 1
85
Monthly
Inspect wires
n/a
Inspect connectors
n/a
Lubrication as per schedule 1
Check derailleur adjustment
99-102
Check brake and gear cable adjustment
99, 114
Check wheels are true and spokes tight
Check hub, head set and crank bearings for looseness
Check pedals are tight
Every Six Months
85
115-116
Check brake adjustment
Check tire wear and pressure
86
Page Reference
89
88
90, 96, 105-108
103
Check handlebars and stem are tight
92-93
Check seat and seat post are tight and comfortably adjusted
97-98
Check frame and fork for trueness
18-19
Perform safety check
18-19
Lubrication as per schedule 1
85
Frequency
Yearly
Task
Page Reference
Check all points as per monthly service
86
Check and replace brake pads, if required
102
Check chain for excess play or wear
109
Lubrication as per schedule 1
85
Tools Required
1. Open ended wrench or ring wrenches: 8mm,
9mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm
2. Open end or pedal wrench 15mm
3. Allen key wrenches: 2.5mm, 3mm, 4mm,
5mm, 6mm, 8mm
4. Adjustable wrench
5. Standard flat head screwdriver
6. Standard Phillips head screwdriver
7. Standard slip joint pliers
8. Tire pump
9. Tube repair kit
10. Tire levers
Travel Tools
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Spare Tube
Patch kit
Pump
Tire levers
Multi-tool
Change (phone call)
87
DETAILED MAINTENANCE
WHEELS AND TIRES
PART 6 - DETAILED MAINTENANCE
Wheel Inspection
It is most important that wheels are kept in top condition. Properly maintaining your bicycle's wheels will help braking
performance and stability when riding. Be aware of the following potential problems:
•Dirty or greasy rims:
Caution: These can render your brakes ineffective. Do not clean them with oily or greasy materials. When
cleaning, use a clean rag or wash with soapy water, rinse and air dry. Don't ride while they're wet.
When lubricating your bicycle, don't get oil on the rim braking surfaces.
•Wheels not straight:
Lift each wheel off the ground and spin them to see if they are crooked or out of true. If wheels are not straight, they
will need to be adjusted. This is quite difficult and is best left to a bicycle repair specialist.
•Broken or loose spokes:
Check that all spokes are tight and that none are missing or damaged.
Caution: Such damage can result in severe instability and possibly an accident if not corrected.
Again, spoke repairs are best handled by a bicycle repair specialist.
•Loose hub bearings:
Lift each wheel off the ground and try to move the wheel from side to side.
Caution: If there is movement between the axle and the hub, do not ride the bicycle. Adjustment is required.
•Axle nuts:
Check that these are tight before each ride.
•Quick release:
Check that these are set to the closed position and are properly tensioned before each ride.
Caution: Maintain the closed position and the correct adjustment. Failure to do so may result in serious injury.
88
Tire Inspection
Tires must be maintained properly to ensure road holding and stability. Check the following areas:
Inflation:
Bead
Seating:
Ensure tires are inflated to the pressure indicated on the tire sidewalls. It is better to use a tire gauge
and a hand pump than a service station pump.
Caution: If inflating tires with a service station pump, take care that sudden over inflation does not cause
tire to blow out.
When inflating or refitting tire, make sure that the bead is properly seated in the rim before you fully inflate
the tire.
Tread:
Check that the tread shows no signs of excessive wear or flat spots, and that there are no cuts or other damage.
Caution: Excessively worn or damaged tires should be replaced.
Valves:
Make sure valve caps are fitted and that valves are free from dirt. A slow leak caused by the entry of the dirt can
lead to a flat tire, and possibly a dangerous situation.
Recommended Tire pressures:
The recommended pressure molded on the sidewall of your bicycle tires should match the following chart.
Use this as a general guide.
BMX (16"-20")
35-50 psi
Mountain Bike "MTB" (26")
40-65 psi
Road Touring (700c X 35)
70-90 psi
Road Racing (700c X 25)
110-125 psi
Hybrid/Crossbike (700c X 38)
60-100 psi
89
Ball Bearings
Lock
Washer
Hub Body
Bearing
Cone
Axle
Lock Nut
Washer
Axle Nut
Hub Bearing Adjustment
When checked, the hub bearings of either wheel will require
adjustment if there is any more than slight side play.
1. Check to make sure neither locknut is loose.
2. To adjust, remove wheel from bicycle and loosen the locknut on
one side of the hub while holding the bearing cone on the same
side with a flat open end wrench.
3. Rotate the adjusting cone as needed to eliminate free play.
4. Re-tighten the locknut while holding the adjusting cone in
position.
5. Re-check that the wheel can turn freely without excessive side
play.
How To Fix a Flat Tire
Push tire bead
into the center
of the rim.
90
If you need to repair a tire, follow these steps:
1. Remove the wheel from the bicycle.
2. Deflate the tire completely via the valve. Loosen the tire bead
by pushing it inward all the way around.
3. Press one side of the tire bead up over the edge of the rim.
Note: Use plastic tire levers, not a screwdriver, otherwise you
may damage the rim and tire.
4. Remove the tube, leaving the tire on the rim.
5. Locate the leaks and patch using a tube repair kit, carefully
following the instructions, or replace the tube. Note: Ensure that
the replacement tube size matches the size stated on the tire
sidewall and that the valve is the correct type for your bicycle.
6. Match the position of the leak in the tube with the tire to locate
the possible cause and mark the location on the tire.
Remove tire bead from the rim.
7. Remove the tire completely and inspect for a nail, glass, etc. and remove if
located. Also inspect the inside of the rim to ensure there are no protruding
spokes, rust or other potential causes. Replace the rim tape which covers the
spoke ends, if damaged.
8. Remount one side of the tire onto the rim.
9. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube just enough to give it some shape.
10. Place the valve stem through the hole in the rim and work the tube into the tire.
Note: Do not let it twist.
11. Using your hands only, remount the other side of the tire by pushing the edge
oward the center of the rim. Start from the opposite side of the valve and work
around the rim.
12. Before the tire is completely mounted, push the valve up into the rim to make sure
the tire can sit squarely in position.
13. Fit the rest of the tire, rolling the last, most difficult part on using your thumbs.
Note: Avoid using tire levers as these can easily puncture the tube or damage the
tire.
14. Check that the tube is not caught between the rim and the tire bead at any point.
15. Using a hand pump, inflate the tube until the tire begins to take shape. Spin the wheel
and watch the tire mold lines. They should be evenly spaced from the edge of the
rim all the way around the wheel. When properly seated, fully inflate the tire to the
pressure marked on the sidewall. Use a tire air pressure gauge to check
16. Replace the wheel into the frame checking that all gears, brakes and quick release
levers are properly adjusted.
Pull tire back onto the rim.
91
HANDLEBARS AND STEM
Handlebar Stem
Max. Height/
Minimum Insertion
Mark
Handlebar Binder Bolt
Handlebar Clamp Bolts
Stem Bolt
Max. Height/
Min. Insertion Mark
Stem Bolt Wedge
92
The handlebar stem fits into the steering column and is held firmly by
the action of a binder bolt and expander wedge which, when tightened,
binds with the inside of the fork steerer tube. When removing the stem,
loosen the stem bolt two or three turns, then give it a tap to loosen the
wedge inside.
Lubricate by first wiping off any old grease and grime, then applying a
thin film of grease to the part, including the wedge, that will be inserted
into the frame. The height of the handlebar can be adjusted to suit your
comfort preference. If the stem is removed from the steering column,
you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the bottom with the words
“max. height” or “minimum insertion".
!
!
Never ride a bicycle if the stem has
been raised so that the max. height/
minimum insertion line can be seen.
Warning: Over tightening the stem
bolt or headset assembly may cause
damage to the bicycle and/or injury
to the rider.
When re-fitting the stem, make sure the handlebars are correctly aligned
and tightened using the appropriate hex wrench or allen key.
Grip
Do not over tighten.
Stem Bolt
Handlebar
Handlebar Stem
Stem Bolt Wedge
Test the security of the handlebar within the stem, and the stem within
the fork steerer tube, by clamping the front wheel between your knees
and trying to move the handlebar up and down, and from side to side. The
handlebar should not move when applying turning pressure.
Handlebars
MTB Handlebar Assembly
Make sure handlebars
and fork are facing
forward
Note, curved rake of
fork faces forward
The exact positioning of the handlebar is a matter of personal comfort.
For MTB bicycles, the bar should be approximately horizontal, with the
ends pointing back and slightly up. On BMX bicycles, the handlebar
should remain in an approximately upright position but can be angled
back or forward slightly for comfort. On MTB and racing style bicycles,
the handlebar is usually tightened in the stem by a single allen key bolt or
hexagonal bolt. On BMX style bicycles there may be four clamping bolts.
Please note that if you need to replace the fork on your bicycle at any
time, please consult a qualified bicycle technician.
!
Never ride unless the handlebar clamping
mechanism has been securely tightened.
93
Grip
7/8” Plastic Washers
Barrel Adjuster
Cable
GRIP SHIFTERS
Grip Shift™ - Installation
1. Slide front Grip Shift™ assembly over left side of handlebar leaving proper clearance for handlebar grip. If necessary,
move the brake lever to accommodate Grip Shift™ and handlebar grip.
2. Rotate assembly until cable exits beneath brake lever with adequate clearance for brake lever movement.
3. Firmly tighten recessed clamp screw. Installation torque should be 20 in.-lbs.
4. Slide the two 7/8” plastic washers over handlebar. The washers prevent the grip from interfering with Grip Shift™
rotation.
5. Slide handlebar grip over handlebar. Thread the cable inner wire through cable housings and frame, and attach to
derailleur. Make sure that the cable is in the V groove at the derailleur attachment bolt. If trimming the cable housing is
necessary, be sure to replace the housing end cap.
6. Adjust indexing.
7. Slide rear Grip Shift™ over right side of handlebar and repeat steps 2 - 6.
8. Actuate front and rear brake levers to be certain of proper operation. If Grip Shift™ interferes with brake lever
movement, rotate brake lever or Grip Shift™. Check for proper brake lever operation again.
94
Cables and Cable Housing
Cables and housing are one of the most overlooked parts on
the bicycle. The first indication that your cables and housing
need to be replaced is an increased amount of pressure needed
to operate the brakes or shifters. Before every ride, check
that there are no kinks or frays in the cables and housing. Also
check that the housing is seated properly into each cable stop
of the bicycle. It is recommended that the cables and housing are
replaced at least every riding season to prolong the life of your
bike.
!
good cable
kink
Do not ride a bicycle that is not operating properly.
fray
95
HEADSET
Standard Headset
Inspection
The headset bearing adjustment should be checked every month. This is
important as it is the headset which locks the fork into the frame, and if
loose, can cause damage or result in an accident. While standing over the
frame top tube with both feet on the ground, apply the front brake firmly
and rock the bicycle back and forth; if you detect any looseness in the
headset, it will need adjustment. Check that the headset is not over tight
by slowly rotating the fork to the right and left. If the fork tends to stick or
bind at any point, the bearings are too tight.
Note: If your bike is equipped with a threadless headset, please see a
qualified specialist for repairs and adjustments.
Lock Nut
Lock Washer
Adjusting Cup/Cone
Ball Retainer
Adjustment
Loosen the headset top locknut or remove it completely along with the
reflector bracket, if fitted. Turn the adjusting cup clockwise until finger tight.
Replace the lock washer or reflector bracket and re-tighten the lock nut
using a suitable wrench.
Note: Do not over tighten or bearing damage will occur.
!
Always make sure that the headset is properly
adjusted and that the headset locknut is fully
tightened before riding.
Top Head Cup
Bottom Head Cup
Ball Retainer
Crown Race
!
96
Warning: Over tightening the stem bolt or headset
assembly may cause damage to the bicycle and/or
injury to the rider.
SADDLE AND SEAT POST
Inspection
The seat fixing bolt and the seat post binder bolt should be checked for
tightness and adjustment every month. On removing the seat post from
the frame, you will notice a mark about 65mm up from the bottom with
the words “max. height” or “minimum insertion”.
Seat Fixing Bolt
Micro Adjustable
Seat Post
Seat Post
Binder Bolt
!
To avoid damage to either the seat post, the frame
or possibly the rider, the minimum insertion mark
must be inside the frame.
Lubrication
Remove the seat post from the frame and wipe off any grease, rust or
dirt. Then apply a thin film of new grease to the part that will be inserted
into the frame. Re-insert, adjust and tighten the seat post in the frame.
Seat Clamp Nut
Standard
Seat Post
97
Adjustment
As mentioned in Part 2, the seat can be adjusted in height, angle and distance from the handlebars to suit the
individual rider.
Seat angle is a matter of personal preference but the most comfortable position will usually be found when the top of the seat
is almost parallel to the ground, or slightly raised at the front.
The seat can also be adjusted by sliding it forward or back along the mounting rails to obtain the most comfortable reach to the
handlebars.
When fitting, position the seat post into the clamp under the seat and place it in the frame without tightening. Adjust it to the
desired angle and position and tighten the clamping mechanism.
There are two types of seat clamps commonly in use. The most common employs a steel clamp with hexagonal nuts on either
side to tighten. The other type, known as a micro-adjustable clamp, uses a single vertically mounted Allen head fixing bolt to
tighten. After fixing the seat to the desired position on the post, adjust the height to the required level and tighten the binder
bolt.
Note that the type of binder bolt may be either a hexagonal bolt, an Allen head bolt or a quick release mechanism. The
operation of a seat post quick release mechanism is the same as for quick release hubs. (Refer to pages 56-57)
Test the security by grasping the seat and trying to turn it sideways. If it moves, you will need to further tighten the binder bolt.
Note: Remember that the minimum insertion mark must remain inside the frame assembly.
98
BRAKES
The correct adjustment and operation of your bicycle's brakes is extremely important for safe operation. Brakes should be
checked for effective operation before every ride. Frequent checking of adjustment is necessary as the control cables will
stretch and the brake pads will become worn with use.
!
Never ride a bicycle unless the brakes are functioning properly.
There are two types of hand operated bicycle V-brakes in common use: sidepull calipers and V-brake calipers. Both utilize a
handlebar mounted lever which controls a cable to operate the brake. Sidepull brakes are mounted to the frame or fork via a
single pivot point. Cantilever brakes use two brake pivot arms, each mounted on separate pivots on either side of the frame/
fork.
Inspection
Brake levers should be checked for tightness at least every three months.
They should be set in a comfortable position within easy reach of the
rider's hands, and must not be able to move on the handlebar. Some
brake levers make use of a reach adjustment screw, which can be altered
to the distance between the handlebar grip and the lever, as required. The
brake pads should be checked for correct positioning and tightness before
every ride, and the various bolts and nuts at least every three months.
Squeeze each brake lever to make sure they operate freely and that the
brake pads press hard enough on the rims to stop the bike. There should
be about 1mm - 2mm clearance between each pad and the rim when the
brakes are not applied. The brake pads must be properly centered for
maximum contact with the rim. Replace the brake pads if they are over
worn so that the grooves or pattern cannot be seen. The brake cable
wires should be checked for kinks, rust, broken strands or frayed ends.
The outer casing should also be checked for kinks, stretched coils and
other damage. If the cables are damaged, they should be replaced.
99
Some brakes have a quick release mechanism to allow easier wheel removal. Whenever you adjust the brakes,
make sure the quick release mechanism is in the closed position.
!
Never ride unless the quick release is firmly locked in the closed position.
Lubrication
Cable Adjusting Barrel
The brake lever and brake caliper pivot points should be oiled with 2-3 drops
of light oil at least every three months to ensure smooth operation and to
reduce wear. Cables should be lubricated along their entire length, after
removing them from their casings, at least every six months. Always lubricate
new cables before fitting.
Lock nut
Brake Lever
Brake Lever Housing
Adjustment - Sidepull Calipers
Cable Adjusting Barrel
Center Bolt
Brake Shoe
Cable
Anchor
Bolt
Fixing Nut
in Back
Side-Pull Brakes
100
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the cable adjusting barrel, usually
located at the upper cable arm. To adjust, squeeze the brake pads against
the rim, loosen the lock nut and turn the adjuster Brake pad clearance should
be a maximum 2mm from the rim. When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If
the pads cannot be set close enough to the rim in this manner, you may
have to adjust the cable length. Screw the barrel adjuster 3/4 of the way in,
squeeze the pads against the rim, undo the cable anchor bolt and pull the
cable through with pliers. Re-tighten the cable anchor bolt and apply full
force to the brake lever to test, then fine tune using the barrel adjuster. If one
pad is closer to the rim than the other, loosen the fixing nut at the back of the
brake, apply the brake to hold it centered, and re-tighten the fixing nut.
!
Ensure the Brake fixing nut is secured tightly.
Failure to do this may cause the Brake assembly to dislodge from the fork.
Some brakes have a special mechanism which enables you to set
the clearance on either side of the rim using a screwdriver. Brake
pads should finally be adjusted so that the leading edge of the
pad makes first contact with the rim. Some brakes have special
curved washers to allow this, but on less complex models it will be
necessary to apply a little force to the pad and its mounting.
Adjustment - V-Style Brakes
Minor brake adjustment can be made via the barrel cable adjusters
which are located on each brake lever. To adjust, squeeze the
brake pads against the rim, loosen the lock nut, and turn the
adjuster to pull the brake pads closer to, or spread them away from
the rim as required.
Brake pad clearance should be a maximum 2mm from the rim.
When correct, re-tighten the lock nut. If the pads cannot be set
close enough to the rim in this manner, you may have to adjust the
length of the brake cable by loosening the fixing bolt, then pulling or
pushing the cable through the fixing bolt to adjust the length, and
finally re-tightening the fixing bolt.
101
Tread
Tread Worn Off
Usable Brake Shoe Worn Out Brake Shoe (Replace)
On some brakes, the main brake cable continues through the central cable
carrier to an anchor bolt on one of the brake arms. Adjustment of the cable
length is made after loosening the anchor bolt on the brake arm.
Adjust the brake pad position so that it is parallel to the wheel rim and so
that the leading edge makes first contact. To do this, fit an Allen key into
the brake pad holding bolt, loosen the fixing nut and adjust. Move the
brake pad along its mounting post to alter the distance from the rim, and
move the curved adjustment washer to alter the angle of the pad.
On some models there is a spring-force adjustment screw on the brake arm
which allows further fine tuning of the brake shoe position.
Align brake shoe with rim surface
Direction of rim
rotation
Brake Shoe Holding Nut
0.5 - 1.0 mm
102
DRIVETRAIN
The drivetrain of a bicycle refers to all parts that transmit power to
the rear wheel including the pedals, chain, chainwheel, crank set and
freewheel.
PEDALS
Pedals are available in a variety of shapes, sizes and materials, and
each are designed with a particular purpose in mind. Some pedals
can be fitted with toe clips and straps. These help to keep the feet
correctly positioned and allow the rider to exert pulling force, as well as
downward pressure, on the pedals. Use of toe clips with straps requires
practice to acquire the necessary skill to operate them safely.
Inspection
Pedals should be inspected every month, taking note of the following
areas:
• Check correct tightness into the crank arms. If pedals are
allowed to become loose, they will not only be dangerous but will
also cause irreparable damage to the cranks.
• Check that pedal bearings are properly adjusted. Move the
pedals up and down, and right to left, and also rotate them by
hand. If you detect any looseness or roughness in the pedal
bearings then adjustment, lubrication or replacement is required.
• Ensure that the front and rear pedal reflectors are clean and
securely fitted.
• Also ensure that the toe clips, if fitted, are securely tightened to
the pedals.
L = Left
Turn counter-clockwise
to tighten.
R = Right
Turn clockwise
to tighten.
!
Never ride with loose pedals.
103
Lubrication and Adjustment
Many pedals cannot be disassembled to allow access to the
internal bearings and axle. However, it is usually possible to inject a little oil onto the inside bearings, and this should be
done every six months. If the pedal is the type that can be fully disassembled, then the bearings should be removed, cleaned
and greased every six to twelve months. Because of the wide variety of pedal types and their internal complexity, disassembly
procedures are beyond the scope of this manual and further assistance should be sought from a specialist.
!
Never ride in traffic with fully tightened toe straps.
Attachment
Note: The right and left pedals of a bicycle each have a different thread and are not interchangeable.
Never force a pedal into the incorrect crank arm. The right pedal, which attaches to the chainwheel side, is marked 'R' on the
end of the axle, and screws in with a clockwise thread. The left pedal, which attaches to the other crank arm, is marked 'L' on
the axle, and screws in with a counter-clockwise thread.
Insert the correct pedal into the crank arm and begin to turn the thread with your fingers only. When the axle is screwed all the
way in, securely tighten using a 15mm wrench.
If removing a pedal, remember that the right pedal axle must be turned counter clockwise, i.e. the reverse of when fitting.
If replacing the original pedals with a new set, make sure the size and the axle thread is compatible with the cranks on
your bicycle. Bicycles use one of two types of cranks and these use different axle threads. Your bike may be equipped with
cranks that are a one piece design with no separate axle. These operate with pedals that have a 1/2" (12.7mm) thread. Bikes
equipped with three piece crank sets with a separate axle, left crank and right crank, use a slightly larger 9/16" (14mm) thread.
Note: Never try and force a pedal with the wrong thread size into a bicycle crank.
104
CRANK SET
The crank set refers to the bottom bracket axle and bearings, the crank
arms, and chainrings.
Crank Bolt
Dust Cap
Standard Crank Set
Your bike may be fitted with either a one piece crank, where the crank
arms and bottom bracket are a single component, or a standard crank
set, where each crank arm bolts onto the bottom bracket axle using
nuts or bolts. The one piece system is simpler and requires less
maintenance, while the standard crank system requires a little extra
care.
!
Never ride your bike if the cranks are loose. This may
be dangerous and will damage the crank arms beyond
repair.
Inspection
Fixed Cup
Ball Bearing
Lockring
Axle
Adjusting
Cup
The crank set should be checked for correct adjustment and tightness
every month. Crank nuts must be kept tight, and the bottom bracket
bearings must be properly adjusted. Remove the chain and try to move
the cranks from side to side with your hands. The cranks should not
move on the axle, and there should be only very slight movement in the
bottom bracket. Next, spin the cranks. If they don't spin freely without
grinding noise, then adjustment or lubrication will be needed. Also
check that there are no broken teeth on the chainrings, and wipe off
excess dirt and grease that may have built up on them.
Standard Bottom Bracket Assembly (Cotterless)
105
Lubrication and Adjustment - One Piece Cranks
To adjust the free play in a one piece type bottom bracket, loosen the locknut on the left side by turning it clockwise and tighten
the adjusting cone counter-clockwise using a screwdriver in the slot. When correctly adjusted, re-tighten the locknut counterclockwise.
To disassemble:
1. Remove the chain from the chainwheel.
2. Remove the left pedal by turning the spindle clockwise.
3. Remove the left side locknut by turning it clockwise and remove the keyed lockwasher.
4. Remove the adjusting cone by turning it clockwise with a screwdriver.
5. Remove the left ball retainer, slide the crank assembly out of the frame to the right, and remove the right ball retainer.
Clean and inspect all bearing surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts. Pack the ball bearing
retainers with grease, then re-assemble in the reverse of the above procedure.
Bearing Cup
Locknut
Fixed Cone
Lockwasher
Adjusting Cone
Bearing Cup
Ball Retainer
Ball Retainer
Crank
Chainwheel
106
One Piece Crank Assembly
Bottom Bracket
Lubrication and Adjustment
- Standard Cranks
To adjust the free play in a three piece type bottom bracket, loosen the
lockring on the left side by turning it counter-clockwise, then turn the
adjusting cup as required. Re-tighten the lockring taking care not to alter
the cup adjustment.
Fixed Cup
Standard Crank removing tool
Ball Retainer
Adjusting Cup
Bottom Bracket
Shell
Lockring
Axle
Remove the dust cap.
Loosen and remove
the flange nut.
To disassemble:
1. Remove the cranks from the axle.
2. Remove the left side lockring by turning it counter-clockwise.
3. Remove the adjusting cup by turning it counter-clockwise.
4. Remove the left ball retainer and slide the axle out of the frame
to the left.
5. Remove the right side fixed cup by turning it counter-clockwise
and remove the right ball retainer. Clean and inspect all bearing
surfaces and ball retainers, and replace any damaged parts.
Pack the ball bearing retainers with grease, then re-assemble in
reverse of the above procedure.
Standard Crank Removal
To remove cotterless cranks use the following procedure.
Note that a special tool will be required.
1. Remove the dust cap with a coin or screwdriver.
2. Loosen the flange nut or bolt and washer, and remove.
3. Screw the removing tool into the crank and tighten.
4. Turn the screw bolt down until the crank comes away from the
axle.
107
Screw in the removal tool.
Turn the screw bolt
clockwise.
Standard Crank Replacement:
1. Replace the crank arm onto the axle.
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.
3. Refit the washer and tighten flange nut or bolt securely to a
torque of 27Nm.
4. Replace the dust cover
Adjustment After Use:
1. Remove dust cap.
2. Tap the crank arm lightly with a mallet.
3. Re-tighten the flange nuts, and refit the dust caps.
Position the crank on the axle.
Lightly tap the crank
onto the axle.
Tighten the flange nut.
Replace the dust cap.
108
!
New cranks may become loose with initial use.
Perform the following task after several hours of
riding, and repeat it two or three times after further
use. Cranks should then remain tight.
Rear Sprocket
Front Chainwheel
CHAINS
Inspection
The chain must be kept clean, rust free and frequently lubricated in
order to extend its life as long as possible. It will require replacement if
it stretches, breaks, or causes inefficient gear shifting. Make sure that
there are no stiff links, they must all move freely.
Pull up
Lubrication
10 mm
Straightedge
The chain (bicycle and motor drive) should be lubricated with light oil at
least every month, or after use in wet, muddy, or dusty conditions. Take
care to wipe off excess oil, and not to get oil on the tires or rim braking
surfaces.
109
Adjustment and Replacement
On derailleur geared bicycles the rear derailleur automatically tensions
the chain. To adjust the chain on single speed freewheel, coaster hub
braked or 3-speed hub geared bicycles:
1. Loosen the rear axle nuts (and coaster brake arm clip if fitted)
and move the wheel forward to loosen, or backward to tighten, in
the frame.
2. When correctly adjusted, the chain should have approximately
10mm (3/8") of vertical movement when checked in the center
between the chainwheel and rear sprocket. Center the wheel
in the frame and re-tighten the axle nuts after any adjustment.
Bicycles which have a single speed freewheel, coaster hub
brake or 3-speed hub, generally use a wider type chain than
derailleur geared bicycles. These chains can be disconnected by
way of a special U-shape joining link, that can be pried off of the
master link with a screwdriver. To replace, feed the chain around
the chainwheel and rear sprocket, fit the master link into the
rollers into each end of the chain, position the master link side
plate, and slip on the U-shaped snap-on plate. Make sure the
open end of the U-shaped plate is trailing as the link approaches
the chainwheel when pedaling forward.
Chain Rivet Tool
110
Derailleur geared bicycles use narrower chains and require a
special tool to fit and remove chain links, or to change the length. To
remove, fit the rivet tool so that the punch pin is centered over any one
of the chain rivets. Push the rivet almost all the way out, then back out
the punch and remove the tool. Holding the chain on both sides of the
punched rivet, bend it slightly to release link from the rivet. To install,
feed chain around chainwheel, rear sprocket and derailleur cage with
rivet facing away from the bicycle. Bring the two ends together within
the special tool and punch the rivet into place. Be sure not to push rivet
too far through side plate.
Motor Drive Chain Adjustment
•
•
•
Tools Required:
5mm Allen wrench
10mm Box wrench
CX Bikes
1. 1. Loosen the 4 Allen bolts that mount the motor bracket
from underneath the frame.
2. Adjust the motor chain tensioner bolt until there is only
about 10mm (3/8”) slack in the motor drive chain.
3. Retighten the 4 motor bracket Allen bolts.
Electric Bikes with Frame Mounted Cartridge
Battery Packs and Vertical Mounted Motors
Chain Tensioner Bolt
(Motor is mounted on the vertical plane of the wheel axle)
1. Loosen (do not remove) the 5mm motor bracket
Motor Bracket Mounting Bolt
mounting bolt.
2. Loosen the 15mm outer axle nut.
3. Loosen the 17mm inner axle nut.
4. Loosen the 14mm top adjuster nut.
5. Tighten or loosen the 13mm lower adjuster nut to adjust
15mm outer axle nut
the motor chain. (Note: Lowering the 2 nuts will loosen
the chain, raising them will tighten the chain)
6. Adjust the motor chain tension to allow only about
5mm slack (3/16”).
7. Tighten the 14mm top adjuster nut against the lower
bracket tab and 13mm nut.
8. Tighten the 5mm motor bracket mounting bolt.
9. Tighten the 17mm inner axle nut.
10. Tighten the 15mm outer axle nut.
4 Motor Bracket Mounting Bolts
17mm motor bracket / inner
axle nut
13mm, 14mm adjuster nuts
111
Electric Bikes with Rack Mounted Battery
Packs and Horizontal Mounted Motors
(Motor is mounted on the horizontal plane of the wheel axle)
1. Loosen (do not remove) the two 5mm motor bracket
mounting bolts.
2. Loosen the 15mm outer axle nut.
3. Loosen the 17mm thin inner axle nut.
4. Slide the motor with the motor plate forward or
backward to adjust the chain (not shown) tension to
allow only about 5mm slack (3/16”).
5. Tighten the 17mm inner axle nut.
6. Tighten the 15mm outer axle nut.
7. Tighten the 5mm motor plate mounting bolts.
17mm motor plate / inner
axle nut
5mm Motor Plate Mounting Bolts
15mm outer axle nut
112
FREEWHEEL
Inspection
Like the chain, the freewheel must be kept clean and well lubricated. If
the chain has become worn and needs replacing, then it is likely that
the freewheel will also have become worn and should also be replaced.
Take the chain off the freewheel and rotate it with your hand. If you
hear a grinding noise or the freewheel stops suddenly after spinning it, it
may need adjustment or replacement. Such action is beyond the scope
of this manual and you should consult a specialist.
Lubrication
Remove any accumulated dirt from the freewheel with a brush and
a degreaser. Disassembly of the freewheel is a complicated procedure
requiring special tools, and should be left to a specialist. Apply oil to
the freewheel whenever you lubricate the chain, taking care to wipe off
any excess.
Brake Arm Clip
Brake Arm
Sprocket
COASTER BRAKE HUB
Many BMX style and other children's bicycles are fitted with a coaster
hub brake in the rear wheel. This type of brake offers the advantages
of reliability and easy operation. The brake is operated by applying
back pedal pressure and allows the rider to 'coast' without pedaling,
if desired. There are several models of coaster hubs available, and
the internal mechanisms are very complex. They require infrequent
attention as far as lubrication, adjustment or replacement of internal
parts; if needed, this should be left to a specialist. Keep the coaster hub
sprocket clean and oil it along with the chain.
!
Make sure the brake arm is correctly attached to the
chainstay with the brake arm clip. The brake will not
operate otherwise.
113
DERAILLEUR SYSTEMS
The derailleur system includes the font and rear derailleurs, the shift levers, and the derailleur control cables, all of which
must function correctly for smooth gear shifting to occur. There are several different types of derailleur systems, but all
operate using similar principles. Your new bicycle may be fitted with an “indexing” or “click” shifting system (SIS), which
links each gear position to a positive click mechanism in the shifter, and makes shifting very simple and precise. A further
development of SIS is the fully integrated system (STI) where the shift lever and brake lever mechanisms form an
integrated unit on the handlebars.
Inspection
Pre-stretch the derailleur
cables to remove slack
Stretch
114
The operation of the derailleur system should be checked at
least every month. Check the operation of the rear derailleur
first, then the front. The rear derailleur should shift the chain
cleanly from one cog to the next without hesitation. On SIS
equipped bicycles, each notched position in the shifter must
equate to a new gear position. After shifting, the rear derailleur
should not rub on the chain. The derailleur should never cause
the chain to fall off the inner or outer freewheel cogs.
The front derailleur should also shift the chain cleanly and
without hesitation between each chainring. If your bicycle is
equipped with front SIS, then each click or stop in the shifter
should equate exactly to a new gear position. When the chain
has been positioned onto a new chainring, it should not rub
on the front derailleur. The chain should not fall off a chainring
at any time. Derailleur control cables are a critical component
that must be well maintained for accurate shifting performance.
Check them for any sign of rust, fraying, kinks, broken strands
and any damage to the cable housing. If you find any
problems, the cables may need replacing before you ride.
Lubrication
Top Gear
Freewheel
Pulley Adjustment
Screw
All the pivoting points of the front and rear derailleurs should be
lubricated with light oil at least every month. Be sure to wipe off any
excess oil to prevent attraction of dirt into the mechanisms. The shifting
cables should be cleaned and re-coated with a thin layer of grease every
six months, or whenever new cables are being installed.
Adjustment - Rear Derailleur
Adjustment
Screws
SIS Cable Adjuster
Guide Pulley
Tension Pulley
Rear Derailleur Rear View
High Gear
Adjustment Screw
Low Gear
Adjustment Screw
SIS Cable
Adjuster
The Low limit screw determines how far the rear derailleur will travel toward the
wheel of the bicycle, while the High limit screw determines how far the cage will
travel toward the frame.
1. Shift the rear shifter to the largest number indicated, disconnect the rear
derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain on the
smallest sprocket.
2. Adjust the High limit screw so the chain and the smallest sprocket are
lined up vertically. Remove any slack in the cable by pulling it taut, then reconnect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
3. Shift up through the gears making sure that each gear is achieved quietly and
without hesitation. If noise occurs, use the barrel adjuster to fine-tune the cable
tension. Turning the barrel adjuster clockwise will decrease cable tension
and allow the derailleur cage to move farther away from the bicycle in small
increments. Turning counter-clockwise will increase cable tension and bring
the cage closer to the bicycle. This will micro-adjust the positioning of the
derailleur cage in relation to the freewheel. Simply put; turn the barrel adjuster
the direction you want the chain to go.
4. Shift the chain onto the largest sprocket; adjust the low limit screw so the chain
and the largest cog are lined up vertically. If you are unable to get the chain to
the largest cog, turning the Low limit screw counter-clockwise will enable the
chain to move towards the wheel.
5. Shift through the gears ensuring each gear is achieved quietly and without
hesitation.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.
Please refer to the troubleshooting section for more assistance.
Rear Derailleur Side View
115
Low Adjusting Screw
Cable Fixing Bolt
Derailleur Cage
116
High Adjusting
Screw
Chainguide
clearance of
1-3 mm
Adjustment - Front Derailleur
1. Shift the rear shifter to the smallest number indicated, then shift the
front shifter to the smallest number indicated. Disconnect the front
derailleur cable from the cable anchor bolt and place the chain on the
smallest chainwheel.
2. Make sure the front derailleur cage is parallel with the outer chainwheel
on the crankset. There must be a 1-3mm gap between the bottom of the
derailleur cage and the top of the outer chainwheel teeth to ensure the
derailleur will clear the chainwheel when shifting.
3. Adjust the Low limit screw so the chain is centered in the middle of
derailleur cage. Pull all slack out of the cable by pulling it taut, then
reconnect the cable and tighten the cable anchor bolt securely.
4. Shift the front shifter into the largest gear and pedal the bike so the chain
jumps to the largest chainwheel. If the chain does not shift onto the
largest chainwheel, you will need to turn the High limit screw counterclockwise until the chain moves to the largest chainwheel. If the chain
falls into the pedals, the High limit screw has been turned too far. You will
need to readjust the High screw clockwise in 1/4 turn increments until the
chain no longer falls off.
5. Shift through each gear ensuring all are achieved quietly and without
hesitation.
6. The barrel adjuster for the front derailleur is located on the shift
mechanism. Turning clockwise will decrease cable tension and allow the
front derailleur cage to move away from the bike, while turning counterclockwise will increase tension and bring the cage closer to the bike. If
you are experiencing problems shifting between gears, use the barrel
adjuster to fine-tune the cable tension.
NOTE: It may take several adjustments to achieve the desired positioning.
REFLECTORS
Your bicycle is supplied with one front (white), one rear (red), two wheel (white), and two pedal (orange) reflectors. These are
an important safety and legal requirement, and should remain securely fitted and in good, clean conditions at all times.
Periodically, inspect all reflectors, brackets and mounting hardware for signs of wear or damage. Replace immediately if
damage is found. Please see pages 21-22 for more information.
Wear reflective clothing
when riding.
Reflectors
Reflectors
Attach a light to your
bike if you ride at night.
117
MISCELLANEOUS ACCESSORIES
Your bicycle might be shipped with accessories that can be added onto you new bicycle. The following will detail how and
where to attach your miscellaneous accessories.
Basket Assembly
Your bicycle may be supplied with an attachable front
basket. You must make sure that the basket is attached
properly.
First insert the washer onto the 10mm hex head bolt.
Then insert hex head bolt through the basket, and
through the basket bracket assembly (on bike). Next,
insert a second washer onto the bolt and thread a
10mm nyloc nut onto the bolt behind the basket bracket
assembly. Tighten bolts until snug. Repeat for second
bolt. See diagram at the right.
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Problem
Possible Cause
Remedy
Gear shifts not working properly
-
Derailleur cables
sticking/stretched/damaged
Front or rear derailleur not adjusted
properly
Indexed shifting not adjusted properly
-
Lubricate/tighten/replace cables
-
Adjust derailleurs
-
Adjust indexing
Excessively worn/chipped chainring
or freewheel sprocket teeth
Chain worn/stretched
Stiff link in chain
Non compatible chain/chainring/
freewheel
-
Replace chainring, sprockets and
chain
Replace chain
Lubricate or replace link
Seek advice at a bicycle shop
Slipping chain
-
Chain jumping off freewheel
sprocket or chainring
-
Chainring out of true
Chainring loose
Chainring teeth bent or broken
Rear or front derailleur side-to-side
travel out of adjustment
-
Re-true if possible, or replace
Tighten mounting bolts
Repair or replace chainring/set
Adjust derailleur travel
Constant clicking noises when
pedaling
-
Stiff chain link
Loose pedal axle/bearings
Loose bottom bracket axle/bearings
Bent bottom bracket or pedal axle
-
-
Loose crankset
-
Lubricate chain / Adjust chain link
Adjust bearings/axle nut
Adjust bottom bracket
Replace bottom bracket axle or
pedals
Tighten crank bolts
-
Pedal bearings too tight
Bottom bracket bearings too tight
Chain fouling derailleurs
Derailleur jockey wheels
dirty/binding
-
Adjust bearings
Adjust bearings
Adjust chain line
Clean and lubricate jockey wheels
Grinding noise when pedaling
119
Problem
Possible Cause
Remedy
Freewheel does not rotate
-
Freewheel internal pawl pins are
jammed
- Lubricate. If problem persists,
replace freewheel
Brakes not working effectively
-
- Replace brake blocks
- Clean blocks and rim
-
Brake blocks worn down
Brake blocks/rim greasy, wet or dirty
Brake cables are
binding/stretched/damaged
Brake levers are binding
Brakes out of adjustment
When applying the brakes
they squeal/squeak
-
Brake
Brake
Brake
Brake
-
Knocking or shuddering when
applying brakes
-
Bulge in the rim or rim out of true
-
Brake mounting bolts loose
Brakes out of adjustment
-
Fork loose in head tube
Wobbling wheel
120
blocks worn down
block toe-in incorrect
blocks/rim dirty or wet
arms loose
- Axle broken
- Wheel out of true
- Hub comes loose
- Headset binding
- Hub bearings collapsed
- QR mechanism loose
- Clean/adjust/replace cables
- Adjust brake levers
- Center brakes
Replace blocks
Correct block toe-in
Clean blocks and rim
Tighten mounting bolts
- True wheel or take to a bike shop
for repair
- Tighten bolts
- Center brakes and/or adjust brake
block toe-in
- Tighten headset
-
Replace axle
True wheel
Adjust hub bearings
Adjust headset
Replace bearings
Adjust QR mechanism
Problem
Possible Cause
Remedy
Steering not accurate
-
Wheels not aligned in frame
Headset loose or binding
Front forks or frame bent
-
Align wheels correctly
Adjust/tighten headset
Take bike to a bike shop for possible
frame realignment
Frequent punctures
-
Inner tube old or faulty
Tire tread/casing worn
Tire unsuited to rim
Tire not checked after previous
puncture
Tire pressure too low
Spoke protruding into rim
-
Replace Inner tube
Replace tire
Replace with correct tire
Remove sharp object embedded
in tire
Correct tire pressure
File down spoke
-
-
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PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
Bicycle has reduced range and/or
speed
Low batteries
Charge batteries for recommended time
Faulty batteries
Replace batteries
Low tire pressure
Inflate tires to recommended pressure
Brakes dragging against rim
Adjust brakes and/or rim
Riding in hilly terrain, headwind, etc.
Reduced range to be expected in these
types of terrain and/or weather conditions
Hub motor (Enlightened Series)
makes a "clicking" noise and has
reduce power and/or shuts off
Low batteries
Charge batteries for recommended time
Damaged planetary gears
Replace hub motor/wheel
No power when the switch is
turned "ON"
Blown fuse
Replace fuse
Loose connectors
Check all connectors
Broke wire
Inspect all wires for damage
Faulty switch
Replace switch and retest
Bicycle operates OK but battery
gauge does not light up
Faulty controller
Replace controller and retest
Loose connectors
Check throttle and/or battery gauge connectors
Damaged wires
Inspect all wires
Faulty battery gauge
Replace battery gauge
Battery gauge lights up but bicycle Faulty brake inhibitor
does not operate
Loose motor wire connector
122
Replace brake inhibitor(s) and retest
Check motor wire connector
Faulty PTS sensor (Enlightened Series)
Replace PTS sensor and retest
Faulty TTM sensor (Enlightened Series)
Replace TTM sensor and retest
PROBLEM
POSSIBLE CAUSE
REMEDY
Bicycle runs at full speed without
pedaling
Faulty PTS sensor (Enlightened Series)
Replace PTS sensor and retest
Faulty TTM sensor (Enlightened Series)
Replace TTM sensor and retest
Faulty throttle
Replace throttle and retest
Faulty controller
Replace controller and retest
Bicycle (RMB or STB Series)
Sensor and sensor ring not aligned
works in TAG mode but not in PAS
mode
Faulty "White Box"
Realigned so gap between sensor and
sensor ring is 1-2mm
Replace "White Box" and retest
Battery indicates full charge when
tested at the charger port but
bicycle does not operate
Blown fuse
Replace fuse
Loose connectors
Check all connectors
Poor contact between battery terminals
Inspect and clean battery terminals
Throttle (on bicycles so equipped)
does not spring back to neutral
position
Grip jammed against throttle
Reposition grip so gap between it and the
throttle is 1-2mm
Faulty throttle
Replace throttle
Bicycle has intermittent power
Loose connectors
Check all connectors
Loose fuse
Check fuse connector
Damaged wires
Inspect all wires
Charger shows a full charge in an
unusually short amount of time
Faulty charger
Replace charger
Faulty batteries
Replace batteries
Indicator light on charger not illuminated when charger is plugged
into outlet
Outlet has no power
Check outlet for power
Blown fuse (NiMH and Li-Ion chargers)
Replace fuse
Faulty charger
Replace charger
Charger (NiMH and Li-Ion) indicator light only flashes orange and
never changes to red
Damage wire from charger port to battery
Inspect wire
Faulty batteries
Replace batteries
123
?
6. How Things Work
It’s important to your performance, enjoyment and safety to understand how things work on your bicycle. Even if you’re an
experienced bicyclist, don’t assume that the way things work on your new bike is the same as how they work on older bikes. Be
sure to read and to understand this section of the Manual. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand
something, talk to a qualified specialist.
PART 7 - HOW THINGS WORK
A. Wheel Quick Release
WARNING: Riding with an improperly adjusted wheel quick release can allow the wheel to wobble or disengage from the
bicycle, causing damage to the bicycle, and serious injury or death to the rider. Therefore, it is essential that you:
1. Make sure you know how to install and remove your wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place with a quick release.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
Invented in the 1930s to allow quick, easy wheel removal without the need for tools, the bicycle wheel quick release has
become standard equipment on most recreational, sports and competition bicycles. While it looks like a long bolt with a lever on
one end and a nut on the other, the wheel quick release uses a cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Because of its
adjustable nature, it is critical that you understand how it works and how to use it properly.
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning
the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the wheel safely in the
dropouts.
1. Adjusting the quick release mechanism
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the quick release cam pushing against one dropout and pulling the tension
adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension
adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force;
turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the
tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
NOTE: Once the quick release is installed in the hub axle by the manufacturer or the dealer, it never needs to be removed
unless the hub itself requires servicing. If the hub requires servicing, consult a qualified specialist.
124
2. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Many bicycles have front forks which utilizes a secondary wheel retention device to keep the wheel from disengaging if the
quick release is incorrectly adjusted. Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
a) The clip-on type is an accessory part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front fork.
b) The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the outer faces of the front fork dropouts.
c) Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike.
!
?
WARNING: Removing or disabling the secondary retention device is extremely dangerous and may lead to serious injury
or death. It also may void the warranty.
3. Removing or Installing Quick Release Wheels
a) Removing a Quick Release Front Wheel
(1) Open up the brake shoes.
(2) Rotate the wheel’s quick-release lever from the locked or CLOSED position to the OPEN position.
(3) If your front fork does not have a secondary retention device go to step 5.
(4) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (5). If your
front fork has an integral secondary retention device, loosen the tension adjusting enough to allow removing
the wheel; then go to step (5).
(5) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand
to knock the wheel out of the front fork.
b) Installing a Quick Release Front Wheel
(1) Rotate the quick-release lever so that it curves away from the wheel. This is the OPEN position.
(2) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly
at the top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades — the fork drop-outs. The quick-release lever
should be on the left side of the bicycle. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(3) Holding the quick-release lever in the OPEN position with your right hand, tighten the tension adjusting nut
with your left hand until it is finger tight against the fork dropout.
(4) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering
the wheel rim in the fork, rotate the quick-release lever upwards and push it into the CLOSED position (refer
to pages 56-57). The lever should be parallel to the fork blade and curved toward the wheel.
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for
leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient.
!
125
?
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
(5) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the fork blade, return the lever to the
OPEN position. Then turn the tension adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening the
lever again.
(6) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the
brake shoes.
WARNING: Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correct quick release adjustment. Failure to
properly adjust the quick release mechanism can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which could cause
you to lose control and fall, resulting in serious injury or death.
c. Removing a Quick Release Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest, outermost rear sprocket).
(2) Open up the brake shoes.
(3) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(4) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position.
(5) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel
forward and down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Quick Release Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position
(2) Pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(3) Rotate the quick-release lever to the OPEN position. The lever should be on the side of the wheel
opposite the derailleur and freewheel sprockets.
(4) Put the chain on top of the smallest free wheel sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts
and pull it all the way in to the dropouts.
(5) Tighten the adjusting nut until it is finger tight against the frame dropout; then rotate the lever toward the
front of the bike until it is parallel to the frame’s chainstay or seatstay and is curved toward the wheel.
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release without wrapping your fingers around the fork blade for
leverage, and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the tension is insufficient.
Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
(6) If the lever cannot be pushed all the way to a position parallel to the chainstay or seatstay tube, return the
lever to the OPEN position. Then turn the adjusting nut counterclockwise one-quarter turn and try tightening
again.
(7) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(8) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the
brake shoes.
!
126
4. Removing and Installing Bolt-On Wheels
a. Removing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(1) Open up the brake shoes.
(2) With a 15mm box wrench or a six inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
(3) If your front fork has a clip-on type secondary retention device, disengage it and go to step (4). If your
front fork has an integral secondary retention device, loosen the axle nuts about six full turns; then go to step
(4).
(4) Raise the front wheel a few inches off the ground and tap the top of the wheel with the palm of your hand
to knock the wheel out of the fork ends.
b. Installing a Bolt-On Front Wheel
(1) With the steering fork facing forward, insert the wheel between the fork blades so that the axle seats firmly
at the top of the slots which are at the tips of the fork blades. The axle nut washers should be on the outside,
between the fork blade and the axle nut. If your bike has a clip-on type secondary retention device, engage it.
(2) While pushing the wheel firmly to the top of the slots in the fork dropouts, and at the same time centering
the wheel rim in the fork, use a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench to tighten the axle nuts as
tight as you can.
(3) Close the brake shoes; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the
brake shoes.
c. Removing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Open the rear brake shoes.
(2) Shift the rear derailleur to high gear (the smallest rear sprocket) and pull the derailleur body back with
your right hand
(3) With a 15mm box wrench or a six-inch adjustable wrench, loosen the two axle nuts.
(4) Lift the rear wheel off the ground a few inches and, with the derailleur still pulled back, push the wheel
forward and down until it comes out of the rear dropouts.
d. Installing a Bolt-On Rear Wheel
(1) Shift the rear derailleur to its outermost position and pull the derailleur body back with your right hand.
(2) Put the chain on to the smallest sprocket. Then, insert the wheel into the frame dropouts and pull it all the
way in to the dropouts. The axle nut washers should be on the outside, between the frame and the axle nut.
(3) Tighten the axle nuts as tightly as you can, using a six-inch adjustable wrench or a 15mm box wrench.
(4) Push the rear derailleur back into position.
(5) Close the brake; then spin the wheel to make sure that it is centered in the frame and clears the brake
shoes.
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B. Seatpost Quick Release
Many mountain bikes are equipped with quick-release seat post skewers. The seatpost quick-release skewer works exactly like
the wheel quick-release. While a quick release looks like a long bolt with a lever on one end and a nut on the other, the quick
release uses a cam action to firmly clamp the seat post.
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WARNING: Riding with an improperly tightened seat post can allow the saddle to turn or move and cause you to lose
control and fall. Therefore:
1. Make sure you know how to correctly clamp your seat post.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your seat post quick release.
3. Before you ride the bike, first check that the seatpost is securely clamped.
Adjusting the quick release mechanism
The action of the quick release cam squeezes the seat collar around the seat post to hold the seat post securely in place. The
amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping
the cam lever from rotating increases clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the difference between safe clamping force
and unsafe clamping force.
CAUTION: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the seatpost securely. Holding the nut with one hand and turning
the lever like a wing nut with the other hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp the seatpost safely.
CAUTION: If you can fully close the quick release and the lever does not leave a clear imprint in the palm of your hand, the
tension is insufficient. Open the lever; turn the tension adjusting nut clockwise a quarter turn; then try again.
C. Brakes
NOTE: For most effective braking, use both brakes and apply them simultaneously.
WARNING: Sudden or excessive application of the front brake may pitch the rider over the handlebars, causing serious injury
or death.
1. How brakes work
It’s important to your safety that you instinctively know which brake lever controls which brake on your bike. In the U.S., bikes
are required to be set up with the right brake lever controlling the rear brake, and the left lever controlling the front brake.
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The braking action of a bicycle is a function of the friction between the brake surfaces -- usually the brake shoes and the
wheel rim. To make sure that you have maximum friction available, keep your wheel rims and brake shoes clean and free of
lubricants, waxes or polishes.
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Make sure that your hands can reach and squeeze the brake levers comfortably. If your hands are too small to operate the
levers comfortably, consult your dealer before riding the bike. The lever reach may be adjustable; or you may need a different
brake lever design.
Most brakes have some form of quick release mechanism to allow the brake shoes to clear the tire when a wheel is removed or
reinstalled. When the brake quick release is in the open position, the brakes are inoperative. Make sure that you understand the
way the brake quick release works on your bike and check each time to make sure both brakes work correctly before you get
on the bike.
Brakes are designed to control your speed, not just to stop the bike. Maximum braking force for each wheel occurs at the
point just before the wheel “locks up” (stops rotating) and starts to skid. Once the tire skids, you actually lose most of your
stopping force and all directional control. You need to practice slowing and stopping smoothly without locking up a wheel.
The technique is called progressive brake modulation. Instead of jerking the brake lever to the position where you think you’ll
generate appropriate braking force, squeeze the lever, progressively increasing the braking force. If you feel the wheel begin
to lock up, release pressure just a little to keep the wheel rotating just short of lockup. It’s important to develop a feel for the
amount of brake lever pressure required for each wheel at different speeds and on different surfaces. To better understand this,
experiment a little by walking your bike and applying different amounts of pressure to each brake lever, until the wheel locks.
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WARNING: Some bicycle brakes, such as linear-pull and disc brakes, are extremely powerful. You should take extra care
in becoming familiar with these brakes and exercise particular care when using them. Applying these brakes too hard or
too suddenly can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
When you apply one or both brakes, the bike begins to slow, but your body wants to continue at the speed at which it was
going. This causes a transfer of weight to the front wheel (or, under heavy braking, around the front wheel hub, which could
send you flying over the handlebars). A wheel with more weight on it will accept greater brake pressure before lockup; a wheel
with less weight will lock up with less brake pressure. So, as you apply brakes and your weight shifts forward, you need to shift
your body toward the rear of the bike, to transfer weight back on to the rear wheel; and at the same time, you need to both
decrease rear braking and increase front braking force. This is even more important on steep descents, because descents shift
weight forward. The keys to effective speed control and safe stopping are controlling wheel lockup and weight transfer. Practice
braking and weight transfer techniques where there is no traffic or other hazards and distractions.
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Everything changes when you ride on loose surfaces or in wet weather. Tire adhesion is reduced, so the wheels have less
cornering and braking traction and can lock up with less brake force. Moisture or dirt on the brake shoes reduces their ability to
grip. The way to maintain control on loose or wet surfaces is to go more slowly to begin with.
2. Adjusting your brakes
If either brake lever on your bike fails the Mechanical Safety Check you can restore brake lever travel by turning the brake
cable adjusting barrel counterclockwise, then lock the adjustment in by turning the barrel’s lock nut clockwise as far as it will go.
If the lever still fails the Mechanical Safety Check, or you have any question about whether your brakes are working properly
have your dealer check the brakes.
D. Shifting
Your multi-speed bicycle will have a derailleur drivetrain, an internal gear hub drivetrain or, in some special cases, a
combination of the two.
1. Why all those gears?
You will get the greatest fitness benefit, produce the greatest sustained power and have the greatest endurance if you learn to
spin the pedals at high revolutions per minute (called cadence) against low resistance. You will get the least fitness benefit and
have the least endurance by pushing hard on the pedals against heavy resistance.
The purpose of having multiple gears on a bicycle is to let you chose the gear that allows you to maintain your optimum
cadence under the widest range of riding conditions. Depending on your fitness level and experience (the more fit, the higher
the cadence), optimum cadence is between 60 and 90 pedal revolutions per minute.
2. Shifting a derailleur drivetrain
If your bicycle has a derailleur drivetrain, the gear-changing mechanism will consist of:
• a rear sprocket cluster, called a freewheel or freewheel cassette
• a rear derailleur
• Usually a front derailleur
• One or two shifters
• One or two control cables
• One, two or three front sprockets called chainrings
• A drive chain
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The number of possible gear combinations (“speeds”) is the product of multiplying the number of sprockets at the rear of the
drivetrain by the number of sprockets at the front (6 x 2 = 12, 6 x 3 = 18, 7 x 3 = 21 and so on).
a. Shifting Gears
There are many different types of shifter mechanisms, each preferred for specific types of application because
of its ergonomic, performance and price characteristics. The designers of your bike have selected the shifter
design which they believe will give the best results on your bike.
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The vocabulary of shifting can be pretty confusing. A downshift is a shift to a “slower” gear, one which
is easier to pedal. An upshift is a shift to a “faster”, harder to pedal gear. What’s confusing is that what’s
happening at the front derailleur is the opposite of what’s happening at the rear derailleur (for details, read
the instructions on Shifting the Rear Derailleur and Shifting the Front Derailleur below). For example, you can
select a gear which will make pedaling easier on a hill (make a downshift) in one of two ways: shift the chain
down the gear “steps” to a smaller gear at the front, or up the gear “steps” to a larger gear at the rear. So,
at the rear gear cluster, what is called a downshift looks like an upshift. The way to keep things straight is to
remember that shifting the chain in towards the centerline of the bike is for accelerating and climbing and is
called a downshift. Moving the chain out or away from the centerline of the bike is for speed and is called an
upshift. Whether upshifting or downshifting, the bicycle derailleur system design requires that the drive chain
be moving forward and be under at least some tension. A derailleur will shift only if you are pedaling forward.
1) Shifting the Rear Derailleur
The rear derailleur is controlled by the right shifter. The function of the rear derailleur is to move the drive chain from one gear
to another on the rear gear cluster, thereby changing gear drive ratios. The smaller sprockets on the gear cluster produce
higher gear ratios. Pedaling in the higher gears requires greater pedaling effort, but takes you a greater distance with each
revolution of the pedal cranks. The larger sprockets produce lower gear ratios. Using them requires less pedaling effort, but
takes you a shorter distance with each pedal crank revolution. Moving the chain from a smaller sprocket of the gear cluster to
a larger sprocket results in a downshift. Moving the chain from a larger sprocket to a smaller sprocket results in an upshift. In
order for the derailleur to disengage the chain from one sprocket and move it on to another, the chain must be moving forward
(i.e. the rider must be pedaling forward).
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2) Shifting the Front Derailleur:
The front derailleur, which is controlled by the left shifter, shifts the chain between the larger and smaller chainrings. Shifting the
chain onto a smaller chainring makes pedaling easier (a downshift). Shifting to a larger chainring makes pedaling harder (an
upshift).
b) Which gear should I be in?
The combination of largest rear, smallest front gears is for the steepest hills. The smallest rear, largest front
combination is for the greatest speed. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting
gear” which is right for your level of ability -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy
enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get
a feel for the different gear combinations. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or
other traffic, until you’ve built up your confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, experience will teach you
which gear is appropriate for which condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the
optimum moment.
3. Shifting an internal gear hub drivetrain
If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will consist of:
• A 3, 5, 7 or possibly 12 speed internal gear hub
• One, or sometimes two, shifters
• One or two control cables
• One front sprockets called chainrings
•
A drive chain
a) Shifting internal gear hub gears
Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to the indicated position
for the desired gear. After you have moved the shifter to the gear position of your choice, ease the pressure
on the pedals for an instant to allow the hub to complete the shift.
b) Which gear should I be in?
The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the steepest hills. The numerically largest gear (3, 5, 7 or 12, depending
on the number of speeds of your hub) is for the greatest speed. Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like
1) to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an easier,
“slower” gear is called a downshift. It is not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead, find the “starting
gear” for the conditions -- a gear which is hard enough for quick acceleration but easy enough to let you start
from a stop without wobbling -- and experiment with upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different
gears. At first, practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other traffic, until you’ve built up your
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confidence. Once you’ve learned the basics, experience will teach you which gear is appropriate for which
condition, and practice will help you shift smoothly and at precisely the optimum moment.
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E. Toeclips & Straps
Toeclips and straps are the traditional means which experienced cyclists use to keep their feet correctly positioned and engaged
with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which gives maximum pedaling power. The toe
strap, when tightened, keeps the foot engaged throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some
benefit with any kind of shoe, they work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with toeclips. Your dealer can
explain how toeclips and straps work.
!
WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill which can only be acquired with practice.
Until it becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention, causing you
to lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no obstacles, hazards or traffic. Keep the
straps loose, and don’t tighten them until your technique and confidence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it.
Never ride in traffic with your toe straps tight.
F. Clipless (“step-in”) pedals
Clipless pedals (sometimes called “step-in pedals”) are the means most racers use to keep their feet securely in the correct
position for maximum pedaling efficiency. They work like ski bindings ... a plate on the sole of the shoe clicks into a springloaded fixture on the pedal. Clipless pedals require shoes specifically designed for the make and model pedal being used.
Many clipless pedals are designed to allow the rider to adjust the amount of force needed to engage or dis-engage the foot.
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WARNING: Clipless pedals are intended for use with shoes specifically made to fit them and are designed to firmly keep
the foot engaged with the pedal. Practice is required to learn to engage and disengage the foot safely. Until engaging and
disengaging the foot becomes a reflex action, the technique requires concentration which can distract the rider’s attention,
causing the rider to lose control and fall. Practice engaging and disengaging clipless pedals in a place where there are no
obstacles, hazards or traffic; and be sure that you follow the setup and service instructions and warnings which came with
your pedals.
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G. Tires and Tubes
1. Tires
Bicycle tires are available in many designs and specifications, ranging from general-purpose designs to tires designed to
perform best under very specific weather or terrain conditions. Your bicycle has been equipped with tires which the bike’s
manufacturer felt were the best balance of performance and value for the use for which the bike was intended. If, once you’ve
gained experience with your new bike, you feel that a different tire might better suit your riding needs, your dealer can help you
select the most appropriate design.
The size, pressure rating, and on some high-performance tires the specific recommended use, are marked on the sidewall of
the tire. The part of this information which is most important to you is Tire Pressure.
WARNING: Never inflate a tire beyond the maximum pressure marked on the tire’s sidewall. Exceeding the recommended
maximum pressure may blow the tire off the rim, which could cause damage to the bike and injury to the rider and
bystanders. The best way to inflate a bicycle tire to the correct pressure is with a bicycle pump.
!
CAUTION: Gas station air hoses move a large volume of air very rapidly, and will raise the pressure in your tire very rapidly. To
avoid over-inflation when using a gas station air hose, put air into your tire in short, spaced bursts.
!
Tire pressure is given either as maximum pressure or as a pressure range. How a tire performs under different terrain or
weather conditions depends largely on tire pressure. Inflating the tire to near its maximum recommended pressure gives the
lowest rolling resistance; but also produces the harshest ride. High pressures work best on smooth, dry pavement. Very low
pressures, at the bottom of the recommended pressure range, give the best performance on smooth, slick terrain such as hardpacked clay, and on deep, loose surfaces such as deep, dry sand. Tire pressure that is too low for your weight and the riding
conditions can cause a puncture of the tube by allowing the tire to deform sufficiently to pinch the inner tube between the rim
and the riding surface.
CAUTION: Pencil type automotive tire gauges and gas station air hose pressure settings can be inaccurate and should not be
relied upon for consistent, accurate pressure readings. Instead, use a high quality dial gauge.
!
Check inflation as described in you’ll know how correctly inflated tires should look and feel. Some tires may need to be
brought up to pressure every week or two.
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Some special high-performance tires have unidirectional treads: their tread pattern is designed to work better in one direction
than in the other. The sidewall marking of a unidirectional tire will have an arrow showing the correct rotation direction. If your
bike has unidirectional tires, be sure that they are mounted to rotate in the correct direction.
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2. Tire Valves
The tire valve allows air to enter the tire’s inner tube under pressure, but doesn’t let it back out unless you want it to. There are
primarily two kinds of bicycle tube valves (actually, there are other designs, but they are seldom seen in the US any more): The
Schraeder Valve and the Presta Valve. The bicycle pump you use must have the fitting appropriate to the valve stems on your
bicycle.
The Schraeder is like the valve on a car tire. To inflate a Schraeder valve tube, remove the valve cap and push the air hose or
pump fitting onto the end of the valve stem. To let air out of a Schraeder valve, depress the pin in the end of the valve stem with
the end of a key or other appropriate object.
The Presta valve has a narrower diameter and is only found on bicycle tires. To inflate a Presta valve tube using a Presta
headed bicycle pump, remove the valve cap; unscrew (counterclockwise) the valve stem lock nut; and push down on the valve
stem to free it up. Then push the pump head on to the valve head, and inflate. To inflate a Presta valve with a gas station air
hose, you’ll need a Presta adapter (available at your bike shop) which screws on to the valve stem once you’ve freed up the
valve. The adapter fits the end of the air hose fitting. Close the valve after inflation. To let air out of a Presta valve, open up the
valve stem lock nut and depress the valve stem.
H. Bicycle Suspension
Some Mountain Bikes come equipped with suspension systems which are designed to smooth out some of the shocks
encountered in off-road riding. There are many different types of suspension systems — too many to deal with individually
in this Manual. If your bicycle has a suspension system of any kind, consult a qualified specialist to provide you with the
appropriate adjustment and maintenance instructions.
!
WARNING: Failure to maintain, check and properly adjust the suspension system may result in suspension malfunction,
which may cause you to lose control and fall.
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!
CAUTION: Changing suspension adjustment can change the handling and braking characteristics of your bicycle. Never
change suspension adjustment unless you are thoroughly familiar with the suspension system manufacturer’s instructions
and recommendations, and always check for changes in the handling and braking characteristics of the bicycle after a
suspension adjustment by taking a careful test ride in a hazard-free area.
!
CAUTION: Not all bicycles can be safely retrofitted with some types of suspension systems. Before retrofitting a bicycle
with any suspension, check with the bicycle’s manufacturer to make sure that what you want to do is compatible with the
bicycle’s design.
!
WARNING: If your bike has suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk. When braking,
the front of a suspended bike dips. You could lose control and fall if your skill is not up to handling this system. Get to
know how to handle your suspension system safely before trying any downhill or very fast mountain biking.
Suspension can increase the handling capabilities and comfort of your bicycle. This enhanced capability may allow you to ride
faster; but you must not confuse the enhanced capabilities of the bicycle with your own capabilities as a rider. Increasing your
skill will take time and practice. Proceed carefully until you are sure you are competent to handle the full capabilities of your
bike. Never ride at a speed or on terrain which is not suitable for your personal riding skill and experience. Always proceed
cautiously in areas where you are not familiar with the terrain. If you exceed your limitations, serious injury or death could occur.
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Purchase Record Card
*Please retain your sales receipt for any possible warranty claims.
Your Name:___________________________________________________
Address: _____________________________________________________
Date Purchased: _______________ Place of Purchase: _____________
Model & Brand Information: _____________________________________
Wheel Size: ____________________
Serial Number Location
PART 8 - PURCHASE RECORD
Fill in Immediately and retain as a record of your purchase.
Color: _________________________
Serial Number: __________________
####
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Limited Warranty
Currie Technologies® manufactured or distributed “Electro-Drive™” powered eZip branded products are warranted to the
original retail purchaser to be free from defects in materials and workmanship in the frame and components, except for tires,
inner tubes and batteries, for a period of 180 days from the date of purchase.
Tires and inner tubes (tubes) are warranted to be free from manufacturing and material defects for 30 days. The tire and inner
tube warranty does not include damage from normal road hazards, flat tires, tire cuts and the like, skid wear or blowouts from
over inflation or other such misuse, or normal wear. Warranties are limited to repair and/or replacement of scooters and/or parts
judged by Currie Technologies® at its sole discretion to be defective.
Batteries are warranted to the original purchaser to be free from defects in materials and workmanship for a period of ninety
(90) days from the date of purchase. The battery warranty does not include damage from power surges, use of improper
charger, improper maintenance, improper storage or other such misuse, or normal wear. Warranties are limited to repair and/or
replacement of scooters and/or parts judged by Currie Technologies® at its sole discretion to be defective.
Currie Technologies® Limited Warranties do not cover or apply to the following: Normal wear and tear; any damage, failure and/
or loss caused by accident, shipping, misuse, neglect, abuse and/or failure to follow instructions or warnings as stated in the
applicable owner’s manual or other printed materials provided with the product; damage, failure and/or loss caused by the use
of the product for stunt riding, ramp jumping, competition, off-road use, acrobatics, trick riding or other similar activities, or use
in any other manner for which such products were not specifically designed.
This warranty does not apply to any products or components, mechanical and/or electrical, which have in any way been altered
from their original configuration by any person. Currie Technologies® will not be liable and/or responsible for any damage,
failure or loss caused by any unauthorized service or use of unauthorized parts.
The Currie Technologies® Limited Warranty does not cover or apply to any Currie product used for rental or commercial
purposes unless the specific product is designated, labeled or marketed by Currie Technologies® as acceptable for rental or
commercial use.
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All warranty claims must be made directly to the selling retailer. The selling retailer is the primary provider of warranty
support and customer service. Currie Technologies® may choose to perform warranty service at the sole choice of Currie
Technologies®. The original owner of the product must provide proof of purchase prior to approval of any warranty claim. Under
no circumstances does this limited warranty include any costs associated with shipment and/or transportation to or from the
retailer or Currie Technologies®. Currie Technologies®, at its sole discretion, has the option of replacing with a new part, or
factory re-certified part, or repairing any defective product and/or component thereof, or to pay the owner of such a product an
amount equal to the original purchase price of such product. The original owner shall pay for all costs of labor associated with
any warranty claims.
This warranty supersedes all previous warranties. The warranties stated herein are in lieu of and expressly exclude all other
warranties not expressly set forth herein, whether expressed or implied by law or otherwise, including, but not limited to, any
warranties for merchantability and/or fitness for any particular purpose. Currie Technologies® shall in no event be liable or
responsible for incidental or consequential losses, damages or expenses in connection with their scooter products.
The liability of Currie Technologies® hereunder is expressly limited to the replacement of goods complying with this warranty or
at the sole discretion of Currie Technologies® to the repayment of an amount equivalent to the purchase price of the product in
question.
CAUTION: Some states may not permit the exclusion or limitation of consequential damages and, therefore, such limitations
may not apply to the consumer in which some impermissible exclusions are involved.
IMPORTANT – Please activate your warranty by registering your new Currie product within 10 days of
purchase by visiting our web site www.CurrieTech.com and clicking the “Register Your Product” link.
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!
FULLY CHARGE BATTERIES BEFORE FIRST USE - Batteries should be fully
charged immediately when they are received and immediately after each use for the recommended charge
times (see below).
• Li-Ion (Lithium Ion) batteries 4-6 hours
• NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) 4-6 hours
• SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries 6-8 hours
With proper care and maintenance your Currie Technologies® Hybrid Electric Bicycle will provide ease of use and be fun to ride.
Refer to the inside front cover for points that will help you to maximize the enjoyment you get from your new hybrid electric bicycle.
CURRIE TECHNOLOGIES®
9453 Owensmouth Avenue | Chatsworth, CA 91311
Phone (818) 734-8123 | Fax (818) 734-8199
www.CurrieTech.com | www.iZipUSA.com
Customer Service (800) 377-4532
eZip Bike OM 2008-10-02