enforcer boat instruction operations owners manual 2008

ENFORCER BOAT
INSTRUCTION
OPERATIONS
OWNERS MANUAL
2008
ALL DESIGNS AND DRAWINGS IN THIS BOOKLET BELONG TO WAREHOUSE HOBBIES INC.
PLEASE DO NOT REPRODUCE AND DISTRIBUTE IN ANY WAY WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION
BY WAREHOUSE HOBBIES INC.
DESIGN AND DRAWINGS BY: TONY CASTRONOVO
MODEL-_______________________
SERIAL #_______________________
PRODUCTION DATE-____________
OWNER-_______________________
1983—2008 COPYWRITED
GLOSSARY OF MODEL BOATING RELATED TERMS
Many of the terms commonly used in gasoline model boating were actually thought up by Tony Castronovo of Warehouse Hobbies
Inc. in the early 80’s when Enforcer Manufacturing Company was first started. These terms were used to identify specific products
towards a new customer base. Today many of these terms have become household names to model boaters and so generic that some
of our competitors use them to market their products. These specific terms coined by Warehouse Hobbies Inc. will be identified bellow with an asterisk.
PARTS AND OR PRODUCTS
BIG BORE CARBURETOR* - The term given to a carburetor with a larger intake diameter, usually identified as a performance
enhancement.
ISO—PAD* - A device originated in concept and design by Warehouse Hobbies to firmly secure the drive shaft tube by adhesion
with common silicone to the hulls bottom. This concept offers the ability to easily replace the shaft tube as well as offer a vibration
dampener when used as a mounting point connected to the engine.
SPD*- The term to describe the unit that holds the prop shaft assembly to the rear of the transom for surface drive applications, (a
concept used in full size off shore boats introduced to model boating by Warehouse Hobbies in 1981). Referred to as “Surface Plaining Drive”, or SPD.
PRO-WET-TUNED EXHAUST*- The performance “water injection tuned” system conceived and designed by Warehouse Hobbies, enables the tuning of a shorter exhaust system that operates at relatively low temperatures and can be concealed inside a closed
hull.
PULSE TAP FITTING*- The term to describe the fitting to operate the water pump by means of a vacuum port from the engines
crank case pressure / pulse.
PULL-N-SEAL*– A device used to seal the antenna wire through the radio box without the need for sealer.
ON BOARD GREASING*– The ability to grease the drive shaft components by means of a port located inside the hull.
GEL COAT– The polyester based glossy finish on the hulls exterior.
COMMON REFERENCES OF ENGINE TERMS
CARBURETOR
RICH- A term to indicate that there is too much gas to air ratio in the carburetor.
LEAN- A term to indicate that there is too little gas to air ratio in the carburetor.
INTAKE MANIFOLD– The device located between the carburetor and engine (intake side) used to mount the carburetor
EXHAUST MANIFOLD– The device located between the exhaust header and engine (exhaust side) used to mount the header to
the engine.
EXHAUST HEADER– The tube or pipe between the tuned pipe and the exhaust manifold.
CLUTCH DRUM– The “drum” shaped device where the clutch assembly expands to couple the engine to the drive train.
RESISTOR SPARK PLUG– A specific spark plug that contains an internal resistor device to limit potential radio disruption
caused by the high voltage ignition system.
HARDWARE
SHCS- SOCKET HEAD CAP SCREW
HHMS– HEX HEAD MACHINE SCREW
SMS– SHEET METAL SCREW
SS– STAINLESS STEEL EXAMPLE: SSSMS– STAINLESS STEEL SHEET METAL SCREW
PH– PAN HEAD EXAMPLE: PHSMS– PAN HEAD SHEET METAL SCREW
CLEVIS– The device that connects the steering rod to the control arms on both the steering servo and the rudder.
EZ CONNECTOR– The device that connects the throttle cable to the throttle servo.
LT BEARINGS– Replaceable bearings in the SPD cartridge that support the prop shaft made out of a lead /Teflon materials.
DRIVE HUB– The device that locks the propeller to the prop shaft.
PREPARING YOUR ENFORCER FOR MAIDEN VOYAGE
For shipping purpose the following parts must be re-installed and adjusted prior to operation. Please follow the
directions on this page and in this booklet before operation your Enforcer Boat.
Step 1– Locate the Dual Rudder assembly and re-install it to the transom bracket with the supplied hardware.
When adjusting the rudders be sure that they are parallel to the transom. Also, make sure that both rudders
are even at the top and the bottom as shown. Use the adjustable ball/joints to make any necessary adjust
ments. To shorten tie rod turn ball/joints clockwise and opposite to lengthen.
6-32 X 1/2” SHCS X 4
Rudder ball joint (2)
Thread lock (medium)
6,1/4”
Use thread lock on the bolt, but
allow the ball to move freely.
Pre-cut to length
3/8”
Step 2– Apply a coat of shaft grease to the drive cable and insert the assembly with the square end first into the
SPD body. Push the assembly in until the bearing cartridge fully inserts into the SPD body and the groove on the
cartridge lines up with the hole on the SPD body. Insert the 8-32 screw and tighten snug.
8-32 x 3/4” SHCS
Must remove to
disconnect SPD
The depth of the bearing cartridge is
correct when the 8-32 bolt lines up with
the slot on the cartridge, as shown.
Be sure to protect
your hand with a rag
or glove.
NOTE: It may be necessary to give the cable a good shove when passing the midpoint (bend) in the shaft tube. Use the palm of your hand as shown, be sure to put a
glove on your hand or protect it by covering the sharp propeller with a rag.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO INSTALL THE PROP SHAFT
ASSEMBLY WITH ENGINE RUNNING
DRIVE LINE MAINTENANCE AND WEAR ITEMS FOR ENFORCER SPD III CARTRIDGE
SEE THRU VIEW OF ENFORCER SPD III CARTRIDGE
LT BEARINGS (2)
FERRULE
PROP NUT
DRIVE HUB
THRUST WASHERS (3-4)
PROP SHAFT
The Thrust Washers (4) are located between the Drive Hub and the SPD Cartridge. These take the thrust load
from the prop and are designed to wear, and eventually they will simply disintegrate. As they wear they need to be
replaced. You can safely operate your boat with as little as (2) Thrust washers, but we recommend that 3-4 are
present at all times. If operated without the Thrust Washers in place damage to the SPD Cartridge and the Drive
Hub will occur, as well as a loss of performance.
When replacing Thrust Washer (s) it is important to leave 0.40-0.60 clearance (endplay) between the Drive Hub
and the SPD Cartridge.
The Lead Teflon Bearings (2) are pressed in place, one on each end of the SPD Cartridge. Refereed to as; LT
Bearings, they are manufactured with a thin Teflon coating that the prop shaft spins in. These bearings are designed to wear over time and require to be replaced. The proper time to replace them is when there is a noticeable
amount of side to side play or “slop”. This is very important as worn out bearings can cause damage to the drive
system, and can be dangerous when in operation.
To change the LT Bearings, simply press the old ones out using a metal dowel pin the diameter of the bearing.
You can use a vise as a press to push one bearing against the other, then locate the end of the cartridge over a surface where the bearings can be passed through, yet support the cartridge.
LT bearings are sold in pairs.
The Drive Hub can be removed by loosing the (2) set screws. Theses set screws are factory installed with (blue)
thread lock. If they do not loosen easily, install the Allen key and carefully heat it with a small torch close to the
Drive Hub. You will now be able to loosen the set screw easily. Do not force the set screw loose or you can strip
the set screw.
When re-installing the drive hub be sure that one of the set screws seats into the groove on the prop shaft.
When replacing Thrust Washer (s) it is important to leave 0.40-0.60 clearance (endplay) between the Drive Hub
and the SPD Cartridge, the Drive Hub
The Prop Nut is a nylon locking type nut that securely holds the propeller firmly against the drive hub as well as
keeps it from coming off of the prop shaft. It is important that when re-installing the prop nut that you do not overtighten it. If you apply too much force to the prop nut, it can push the drive hub tightly against the thrust washers
and cause the entire assembly to bind, resulting in loss of performance and possible damage to the thrust washers
and drive cable. Once the nut is up against the prop and the prop is seated into the drive hub, apply only 1/4 turn to
the prop nut, this will provide the required pressure to hold the prop in place.
The SPD III Cartridge is the cone shaped aluminum tail piece that houses the two (2) Lead Teflon Bearings. This
unit is designed to slip fit into the SPD body and secure in place with the 8-32 socket head cap screw. You will
notice that there is a “C” groove located on the area that penetrates the SPD body. This groove must face up and
align with the hole on the SPD body in order for the 8-32 screw to be installed. Once in place re-install the 8-32
screw and tighten snug. Do not over tighten you can strip or possibly break the 8-32 screw.
The Prop Shaft and Ferrule are of no real maintenance . After a days use it is best to simply remove the entire
cartridge and clean the cable with a rag and apply some spray oil to the assembly. It is best to store it left out of the
drive assembly. The drive shaft can be removed from the ferrule by simply heating the assembly with a torch and
un-screwing the pieces in a normal counter clockwise rotation. When using pliers to hold round parts, be sure to
use a rag or rubber directly against the metal parts. The prop shaft is a bearing surface and can not be scared.
WELCOME TO THE ENFORCER FAMILY
Dear Customer,
Congratulations, and welcome to the Enforcer family, the worlds finest gasoline powered radio controlled model boats. There is no doubt that you now own the most reliable, highest in quality and easiest to operate gasoline powered boat available. With all this said there are a few things that we must go over before our
maiden voyage to insure that you understand and enjoy the exciting hobby of fast paced gas model boating.
Though these boats are often refereed to as “toy’s”, they need to be treated with care and respect, they can
cause bodily harm and or property damage if improperly used. In these directions we provide you with the necessary information to safely operate your Enforcer boat. We require that these instructions are carefully followed and the contents of this booklet is completely understood prior to operating your model.
The use of common sense is also necessary when operating a model of this caliber. Enforcer boats are capable
of very high speeds, and must be used in unrestricted bodies of water where there is no human activities,
(swimming, personal watercraft, water skiing, etc.) in the relative area.
Noise is also an important consideration. Always get permission to operate your model before doing so.
Always operate your model at the time of day where noise will not be inconsiderate to others. We also recommend that no one operates an Enforcer boat under the age of 18 without experienced adult supervision present.
Important things to know
Your Enforcer boat is made in the USA using the most advanced in materials, however care must be taken to
assure a long life. The engine is manufactured by Zenoah the leading manufacture of gas powered engines.
We have included specific instructions provided by Zenoah for operating directions and maintenance. Please
be sure to read and understand them prior to starting your engine.
AVOID– Operating your model in water that is less than 50 degrees F. Cold water can cause the Gel coat finish to fracture under operating conditions. Though this will not normally breach the structural integrity, it can
produce visible hairline cracks.
AVOID– Jumping large waves (6” +) at high speeds. In reality a wave is 10 times the size to the model, therefore a 6 inch wave would be 60 inches in real life. The same damages that can occur to a real boat can occur to
your model. The Gel coat finish on your model is the same finish as a full size fiberglass boat, It is the most
durable finish available, however if you subject your boat hull to severe pounding it will become compromised
resulting in Gel Coat fractures and possible fiberglass damage.
Your Enforcer is equipped with “floatation” foam factory installed in the bow of the boat. This will keep the
boat from sinking. In the event of a overturned boat follow all of the relevant directions located in the back
pages of this manual. Failure to properly follow these procedures can cause serious damage to your boats engine and or radio equipment. NEVER swim for a stalled or overturned boat. Always have a safe and approved
retrieval device, such as a small boat/raft. Always wear an approved life saving vest when ever in a retrieval
vessel. Enforcer boats can be replaced.
Carefully follow all the instructions provided in this manual. If at any time you do not understand a particular
step or area of information, please call us at: (863) 699-1231 and we will be happy to assist you. Our company
hours are: Monday - Friday 9:30 am - 5:30 pm Est.
Thank you for purchasing one of our fabulous Enforcer model boats. I am quite sure that you will be amazed at
the quality and performance of your new model. Who knows, this time next year you may even own an entire
fleet of Enforcer boats, don’t laugh we have hundreds of customers who are multiple Enforcer owners…
On behalf of Warehouse Hobbies I would like to personally thank you once again for choosing Enforcer.
Welcome aboard,
Tony Castronovo
President, Warehouse Hobbies Inc.
Concept and Design by: Tony Castronovo 1997
Drawing by: Tony Castronovo 2008
Step 3– Press the Iso-Pad in place against the bottom and firmly
against the inside back of the transom. Be sure that the 3/8” hole
through the transom aligns with the 3/8” hole in the Iso-Pad.
Use (2) 1” X 2” X 4” wood blocks, one on each side with small
weights as shown in figure 3 to apply pressure to the Iso-Pad until
the silicone cures.
The weights should stay in place for a couple of hours, however
you should wait 24 hours minimum before using your boat. After a
few hours you can make the engine/shaft installation being careful
not to move the pad out of place.
Step 2– Use acetone to completely clean the Enforcer Iso-Pad.
Once clean scuff the bottom of the pad with some 80-100 grit sand
paper.
Using acetone on a rag carefully clean the bottom inside of the hull
between the stringers (rails) forward about 4 inches.
Make sure the inside bottom is flat and there are no lumps of fiberglass or resin. If there is use sand paper on a block to sand the area
flat. The contact portion of the Iso-Pad Must be adhered to a flat
surface.
Using NAPA Auto brand “Even Bead” Pt. #- 765-1483, apply a
liberal amount of silicone sealer as shown in fig. # 2.
Step 1– From the bottom center of the keel, measure up 1/2” and
make a mark. Use a 1/16” drill bit and make a pilot hole on the
mark. See figure 1.
Use a 3/8” drill bit and with the drill in reverse mode, start to drill
a hole on the pilot hold until the bit has evenly cut through the Gel
coat. Once this has been done put the drill in normal right hand
rotation and complete the hold through the transom.
Clean any debris from the area.
DIRECTIONS TO INSTALL ISO-PAD
Inside View
Step 3
TRANSOM
5
POUND
TRANSOM
TRANSOM
Apply NAPA Even Bead as shown,
Pt.#- 765-1483
Be sure to apply on both sides of
the bottom of the pad as well as the
back of the pad that makes contact
with the transom, this is important
to form a water-tight seal.
Inside View
Fig. 2
Fig. 1
INSTALLING THE ISO-PAD SHAFT TUBE MOUNT
POUND
5
Bottom of Iso-Pad
1/2” on center, drill 3/8” hole
PREPARING YOUR ENFORCER FOR MAIDEN VOYAGE
RADIO SYSTEM INSTALLATION
Choose a quality 2-channel radio system to command your Enforcer. Standard servos are adequate for the throttle
servo only. All Enforcer models must use a 1/4 scale servo for rudder control. We recommend the Hitec HS700BB
servo. If you are using an older radio system you have previously used, make sure it range checks (see Radio
Range Check) properly and is on the proper ground frequency required by the FCC; 27 MHz or 75 MHz only. The
servo trays are pre-cut to accept most standard radio systems on the market. Follow the diagram supplied with your
boat to safely install your radio system. If you are not certain on the installation procedure find a hobby shop that is
capable of this type of installation.
ADJUSTING YOUR RUDDER & RADIO SYSTEM (BOATS SOLD WITH RADIO SYSTEMS)
Install (8) AA (Penlite type, Alkaline Only) into the transmitter. Next, install (4) AA (Penlite type, Alkaline
Only) into the battery pack located in the radio box in the boat. Use either electrical tape or a rubber band and/or
balloon around the batteries, this will ensure that they will stay in place in the event of rough water conditions.If
you choose to use NiCad rechargeable batteries, we have designed the radio box to hold as large as 4 sub c cells to
fit under the radio tray, between the two servos. Even though your radio system was factory set, it will be
necessary to re-set the rudder adjustment because of the removed control arm. Turn both the transmitter and the
receiver on. The servos will find their position according to the transmitter sticks (wheel). Next locate the trim
button under the steering stick or on the control panel if you have a wheel type radio. This should be in the center
position; if not re-position so that it is centered. Now you can hook the clevis to the rudder arm. We recommend
using the closest hole from the rudder. Simply screw on the clevis and set the rudders so they favor the left 2 or 3
degrees. This will help offset the torque caused by the propeller. More steering can be acquired by moving closer
to the pivot pin, and lesser as you move further from the pivot pin. Next set the rudders so they are 90 degrees to
the transom, be sure that they are secured tightly.
STEERING
SERVO
TOP VIEW OF RUDDER ASSEMBLY
Use outside Hole.
Use closest hole to the rudder
LESS
MORE
When re-installing the
steering arm on the
servo, make sure your
radio system is on, both
receiver and transmitter.
Allow the servo to center
making sure the trim
switch located under
steering arm is in the
center. Use the extreme
outside hole.
1/4
ADJUSTING YOUR THROTTLE & RADIO SYSTEM
If your Enforcer was purchased with the radio system factory installed, the throttle has been adjusted. However, it
never hurts to double check and familiarize yourself with this function. It is quite simple, as you increase throttle
stick or trigger (if you have wheel type radio), the carburetor should open to its maximum; as you decrease throttle
the carburetor should close. If this function is not properly operating you can adjust the throttle cable from the
throttle servo in the radio box. With a tiny Allen key, loosen the set screw located on the cable stay. You can now
adjust the cable to perform both functions properly. DO NOT operate your boat if the throttle does not close
entirely allowing your boat to idle with no prop movement when placed in the water. If you are still uncertain, we
will be glad to assist you. Phone: Warehouse Hobbies Technical Service Line - Monday thru Friday - 10 a.m. to
5:30 p.m. EST at (863) 699-1231.
RADIO RANGE CHECK
This next procedure is very important both in safety and property. It is necessary to perform a range check each
day before you begin operation of your radio controlled boat, this will ensure your radio is working properly. Turn
both the transmitter and receiver on. Keep the antenna on your transmitter in the down position. While walking
away from your boat, move the rudder stick or wheel back and forth watching for rudder movement. Your radio
should operate at a distance of 50 feet from the boat with the antenna down. If it does not operate, check your
batteries. If, after replacing the batteries, you still cannot properly perform this range check, your radio may need
service from the manufacturer. DO NOT OPERATE IF YOU ARE NOT CERTAIN OF YOUR RADIOS
RANGE!
ADJUSTING YOUR CARBURETOR
Your engines carburetor has been pre-set at the factory for proper “break in”. After the first full tank of
gasoline has been burned you can fine tune the carburetor to reach top speed and optimum performance.
There are three (3) adjustments on your carburetor, Low Speed Needle, High Speed Needle, Main Idle.
The Low and High speed needle valves adjust the internal fuel metering. Each is marked on the carburetor
block next to the respective needle, (H) (L). The low speed needle valve controls the fuel metering from idle
to mid range. The high speed needle valve controls the fuel metering from mid to full range. The main idle
screw adjusts the butterfly plate for a consistent low idle rpm. We recommend that your engines idle rpm’s
be set to allow the clutch to disengage at idle speed. NOTICE: Read and understand the engine manual
supplied with your model before starting your engine.
DEFAULT SETTINGS
If your adjustments have caused the engine to not run properly you can always reset the needles to these default settings. H– 1 5/8 +/- 1/4 turn
L– 1 +/- 1/4 turn
Main– User discretion
Refer to the engine manufactures service manual for specific details.
PRIMER BULB
The clear plastic bulb located on the top of the carburetor is the “primer bulb”.
Prior to starting your engine you must push this bulb several times until the bulb becomes full of fuel.
CHOKE
The (yellow) 1” tube on the carburetor is the choke lever. The lever turned clockwise (Right) is the start or
“choke” position. Counter clockwise (Left) is the “run” open position. It may be necessary to choke a cold
engine at the beginning of the days use. If you flood the engine the best way to start it is to hold the throttle
wide open with the lever in the run position, pull the starter rope until the engine fires and runs, decrease the
throttle at that point to avoid over revving. It may be necessary to have someone help by controlling the
transmitter (throttle). NOTE: READY TO RUN BOATS ARE SHIPPED WITH CHOKE CLOSED
FINE TUNING
The low speed needle is generally set very close and may not require any additional adjustment. The high
speed needle can be turned clockwise to lean (faster), or counter clockwise to richen (more fuel). It is best to
make very minor adjustments 1/16-1/8 turn testing between each. Too far one way or another will have a
negative effect on your boats performance.
ZENOAH CARBURETOR (25cc G260 MARINE)
THROTTLE CABLE ADJUST
RETURN TO FUEL
TANK
HIGH SPEED NEEDLE (H)
CHOKE LEVER
FUEL INLET
LOW SPEED NEEDLE (L)
IDLE ADJUST
RADIO BOX PREPERATION
ENFORCER RADIO BOX
Receiver
1/4 scale servo
Hitec HS700HB
recommended
Throttle servo
Servo tray
Use (4) AA Alkaline batteries
or (5) sub-C NiMh rechargeable pack
ENFORCER BOOT SEAL KIT
Boot
Mount
Side View Throttle cable connector
O-Ring
Nut
Connector
O-ring
Radio box (side view)
Tubing
Use (2) 4” Tie-straps
To secure both cable housing to
connector.
Nut
O-Ring
INSTALLING YOUR RADIO SYSTEM
Allow the throttle cable tube to enter the box
leaving just enough cable to allow the throttle to
close, this will keep the cable from bending.
Use small 4” Tie-Straps to secure
cable housing to fitting. (2)
Optional:
5– sub C Nicad pack.
Use 1300—2000 Mah
Suggested
switch location.
It is mandatory that a 1/4 scale
servo is used for the steering.
Choose a high quality model.
Hitec HS755HB recommended
We recommend that the receiver be
placed into a balloon to re-assure that
it remains water-proof.
RECEIVER
1/4”
1/4
SCALE
O-ring to secure in place
Use Alkaline AA batteries only.
Insert battery pack in the Enforcer #A1000
Battery protector, or insert in a balloon ,
this will provide added protection against
water and vibration.
After setting the steering
trim, it may be necessary to
slightly cut the push rod.
Allow 1/4” of the push rod to
enter the clevis as shown.
Use a high wattage soldering
iron and quickly solder the
clevis and the push rod. Use
a good flux and 60/40 solder.
This connection must be
(shinny) and solid.
Insert non–petroleum base
grease into the boot, this
will help keep the box dry if
the boat is capsized. It is
best to remove the boot to
insert Vaseline. Do not use
grease, grease can damage
the rubber boot. Replace
damaged boots as required.
Push rod seal must be in
place. When installing
push rod pointed end be
careful not to damage the
boot. Use a little dish soap
on the rod end before
inserting it. It is best to cut
the push-rod end to size
once inserted into the box.
Above are the factory recommendations for radio components installation. We strongly recommend that all of our
suggestions on this page are followed. Over the past twenty years Enforcer has put an enormous amount of effort in
making gasoline model boating as safe and “fool-proof” as possible. Installing your radio equipment properly and
keeping it dry are the most importants part of a safe and enjoyable model boating experience.
Note: A small dry sponge can be placed at the bottom of the radio box between the steering and throttle
servos. In the event that the box is submerged for an extended period of time, any water that may leak into
the box will be able to be absorbed by the sponge.
PREPARING YOUR RADIO BOX FOR VOYAGE
Plexiglas Radio Box Lid
Drill a 1/2” - 5/8” hole directly
above the receiver switch
through the Plexiglas lid. This
will give you switch access as
well as an easier way to vent
the box after use.
We recommend that the box be
un-taped at the end of each
daily use and inspected for
dryness. Alcohol can be used
to clean any tape residue both
on the lid and the box flange.
SEALING THE RADIO BOX
The radio box must be sealed correctly before operating your Enforcer. Use Warehouse Hobbies Radio Box Seal
Tape (Part #RB5030) or 1” electrical tape which works comparably well. Simply tape the lid on the box with (4)
pieces making sure not to leave any gaps. Rub the tape with your fingers to assure a good seal. Next, cut a piece of
tape approx. 2” in length and cover the switch access hole, making sure you have completely covered the hole.
This access hole (piece of tape) must be vented after each daily use to avoid condensation in the radio box, which
will damage your radio’s electrical equipment. We recommend not leaving the box taped for a period more than a
week. Alcohol can be used to clean the tape residue on the box and cover. Do not use acetone based products or the
box will be damaged. All cleaners must read, (safe for use on plastics).
Be sure to make flush
intersections with the radio
box tape. This is a place
that water can enter if not
properly sealed.
1” x 2” radio box tape, cover switch access
hole. Remove immediately after use.
ANTENNA MAST & BASE
Never cut receive wire length.
Antenna lead
From receiver.
Place an equal amount of tape
surface on both the flange of the
box and the Plexiglas cover.
Transom
mount
4” tie strap
GREASING YOUR DRIVE CABLE AND CLUTCH BEARING
GREASE PORT
It is important that the correct grade of grease is
used to assure proper lubrication. Purchase “00”
weight grease and inject one (1) ounce of grease
using the provided measured injector before each
daily usage.
NOSE MOUNT
3/8” SHAFT TUBE
The grease port and nose mount serve two purposes. The flexible drive cable also receives lubrication by this
grease once the engine reaches operating temperature. When your boat is placed in the water and during operation
water can enter the shaft tube and contaminate the grease in the system. It is important that this grease is replenished before each daily run. We supply the correct grease injector with your engine/kit. Add one (1) ounce of
“00” weight grease and inject into the tube connected to the nose fitting.
It is best to remove the drive/cable after a days use and wipe it clean. Keep it un-installed until the next days use.
Always grease the flexible cable by hand prior to re-installing it in the boat.
DRIVE LINE / CABLE AND SHAFT TUBE
There is very little maintenance involved with the drive cable and shaft tube. Your shaft tube is equipped with a
Teflon liner tube that is designed to wear over time, preventing premature wearing of the steel shaft tube.
As long as you grease the drive shaft cable as directed, you should get many hours of use out of the Teflon liner.
The liner can easily be inspected by simply pulling it out of the shaft tube from the rear of the boat once the SPD
body has been removed. When replacing the Teflon liner you must remove the old liner first. Push the new liner
all the way up the tube until it makes contact with the clutch, (you can feel this). Allow about 1” inch to protrude
past the transom and cut of the excess.
Your drive cable has been designed to provide many hours of use, however it is a wear item and care must be
taken to assure a good lifespan. Lack of lubrication (grease) is the most common reason that will cause premature
drive line failure. The drive cable system is under a tremendous load when the boat is in operation, excessive
added loads caused by wave jumping or high speed spin outs can cause the cable to break. It is a good idea to pull
the throttle back if the prop leaves the water, this limits the excessive load or bite when re-entering. The drive
cable assembly has been designed to be repaired by our factory or can be done in your work shop with the proper
tools and direction. Models after August 2008 feature the solder-less drive cable system. This type of drive cable
can simply be replaced in your shop or at the water side without any special skills or tools. Factory soldered drive
cables can be purchased complete as well. Solder-less drive cables can be installed on most older Enforcer boat,
contact us for details. Regardless of the cable type, we recommend that a spare is kept in your tool box. The forward thrust pressure is transmitted into the (4) thrust washers located between the prop drive hub and the strut
blade. These thrust washers are designed to wear and must be replaced as necessary. When replacing thrust washers be sure to leave endplay in the shaft assembly between 1/32—1/6”.
STARTING AND MAIDEN VOYAGE
If you are at this stage we are to assume that you have completely read and understand this entire manual, and your boat has been
prepared as shown and stated according to this manual.
WARNING! BEFORE STARTING YOUR ENGINE
Before you start your engine make sure that you performed the radio range check and all systems are in correct working order.
Your engine requires a pre-mix (32-1) oil/gas mixture. You MUST use a good quality pre-mix oil that is designed to be mixed with
pump gasoline. We recommend Amsoil SABER 100-1, 2 cycle premix. There are many more choices in pre-mix lubricants available,
however we have over 25 years of experience using Amsoil, and highly recommend the product. Amsoil is available at most quality
motorcycle and marine shops. Poor grades of pre-mix oils can cause damage to the internal workings of your engine.
Failure to add or reduce the required amount of pre-mix lubricant to gasoline will severely damage your boats engine voiding any
and all warranties.
Stock engine mixture: 32—1 = 32 parts gasoline to 1 part oil
Formula
Gasoline by volume in 1 US gallon = 128 ounces
128 ounces divided by 32 = 4
4 ounces of pre-mix lubricant added to each gallon of gasoline = 32—1
In a 1-5 gallon approved container add the correct amount of pre-mix lubricant to the gasoline.
We recommend that a smaller container such as a (1) gallon be used and mixed. Once oil is added to gasoline it will degrade the octane level over time faster than if un mixed. Using a smaller container will give your boat better performance.
NOTE: M5 ENGINES MUST BE PRE-MIXED AT 6 OUNCES PER GALLON A 20—1 MIX RATIO.
Amount of gasoline
Amount of pre-mix oil (stock engines)
Amount of pre-mix oil (modified engines)
1 gallon
4 ounces
6 ounces
2 gallon
8 ounces
12 ounces
3 gallon
12 ounces
19 ounces
4 gallon
16 ounces
25.5 ounces
5 gallon
20 ounces
32 ounces
STARTING YOUR ENGINE & RUNNING YOUR BOAT
Read and follow all Zenoah tuning and starting instructions in the Zenoah manual included.
Carefully fill the gas tank in your boat until the gas reaches the bottom of the filler neck. (MUST REMOVE AFTER DAILY USE)
Turn the transmitter on first followed by the receiver, be sure to re-tape the switch hole on the radio box cover.
Push the primer bulb several times until you can see the fuel return back to the gas tank through the return line.
Push the choke lever down
Grasp the starter handle and slowly pull it until it grabs, without jerking pull the rope quickly as many times necessary until your engine fires or pops. It may be necessary to open the choke lever one notch or to the open position so the engine will continue to run.
Allow the engine to warm up for at least 30 seconds, make sure you open the choke to the full up position before placing the boat in
the water.
Make sure your transmitter antenna is in the full up position. Give the throttle a squeeze as well as the rudder left and right movement,
making sure that each command is an exact duplicate in response.
Stay clear of the propeller and carefully place the boat in the water. Slowly increase the throttle to move the boat forward. Once the
boat is under way and clear of any obstacles test the steering making sure the boat responds to your commands. If so, stay at least 100
feet off shore and familiarize yourself with the steering characteristics of your boat. Avoid fast speeds until you are confident that you
can control your boat. Your effective radios range is about 300 feet with a brand new set of batteries. As the batteries lessen in power
so does your effective range. We strongly recommend that your run your first and even second full tank of gas through the engine
before attempting high speeds. This is not only better for proper engine “break-in”, but the added time is sure to be a benefit of additional practice. Your Enforcer can hit speeds of 40 miles per hour, and that is fast! Be sure that you have ample room and the water
conditions warrant these high speeds. It is very possible to capsize your model at high speeds, especially in rough water conditions. In
the event of a capsize certain procedures MUST be carried out immediately to avoid possible engine / radio system damage, see these
procedures below.
OVERTURNED BOAT RE-START
If you overturn your boat while running the following procedures MUST be performed prior to attempting to re-start the engine.
1)- Remove the radio box cover and inspect for any water. If wet and the radio is “glitching” or not working, dry the components with
a hair dryer. It may be necessary to open the receiver and or servos up to expose the circuitry. Do not attempt to operate your boat
with a radio system that is less than 100 % operational.
2)- Remove the spark plug and drain the fuel out of the tank, (properly dispose the contaminated fuel).
3)- Turn the boat up-side-down and pull the starter several times to expel the water out of the engine.
4)- Re-fill the tank and re-prime the engine. Install the spark plug finger tight, do not tighten.
5)- Start the engine with the plug loose and allow to run for 30-45 seconds before stalling and tightening the plug. It may be necessary
SAFETY AND MAINTENANCE
This is probably the most important page in this manual and we urge that all these directions are followed.
SAFETY RULES
Never allow anyone under the age of 18 or with minimal or no experience operate your model.
Never operate your model in a body of water where there are swimmers present.
Never operate your model in bodies of water that are restricted, make sure you have permission before use.
Never chase or follow full size boats or personnel watercraft with your model.
Never smoke when fueling your boat, or allow anyone within 15 feet while filling.
Never swim for a stalled or over turned boat, use a small retrieve boat /raft with approved life saving vest.
Keep all spectators a minimum of 15 feet from your boat when started on shore.
Keep your boat a safe distance off shore at all times. When returning back to shore always skirt the shoreline, never return straight in.
Keep your clothes, hands, and any objects away from your propeller when running.
Keep your gasoline in an approved container and out of the way of spectators and hazardous areas.
Although your model may be considered a toy, in reality it can cause property damage and bodily harm if misused or used in areas
where humans or animals are present. Use good common sense when operating your model and you will enjoy the benefits of this
great hobby.
DAILY MAINTENANCE
Replace receiver batteries (4) Alkaline AA after each 4 hours of use.
Replace transmitter batteries as required by the battery meter on the transmitter. (Meter is for transmitter only).
Grease the drive cable before each daily use, (Inject (1) Ounce “00” weight grease)
Remove the drive cartridge assembly after each daily use, wipe the drive cable clean.
Remove radio box tape after each daily use and clean radio box and cover with denatured alcohol.
Apply grease to the cable before re-installing. (optional, you may wait until following run).
Use a light spray oil to inject lubricant into throttle cable on a regular basis.
There is no need to lubricate the shaft bushings (LT bearings), some lubricants can damage the bushings.
Check daily for loose nuts and bolts, retighten as necessary.
Drain the fuel tank after each days use, do not store with fuel in the tank. THIS IS NOT OPTIONAL
Replace worn bushings when necessary.
Replace worn Teflon shaft liner when necessary.
Clean your boats hull with mild detergents that are recommended for safe use on fiberglass, use a soft cloth.
Clean the bilge or inside of your hull with a water soluble degreaser (mild mixture).
Remove all batteries if the boat will be stored for more than a couple of weeks.
Run the engine to clear the fuel lines if the boat will be unused or stored for more than a couple of weeks.
Replace steering boot seal if cracks become evident. (use a non-petroleum based grease such as).
WINTER STORAGE
Drain the gas tank and all gas lines.
Remove all batteries
Remove drive cartridge assembly and wipe clean.
Lubricate throttle cable.
Wash inside and outside of boat, wax the outside with Gel coat approved wax.
Dry entire boat and cover with a breathable material, cloth is recommended.
Do not store the boat on a boat stand, place it on a pillow or soft blanket. Boat stands can cause warp age to the bottom of the boat if
left for an extended period of time.
Store the boat in a cool dry place.
NOTE: If you spill gasoline into the hull it must be neutralized and removed immediately for safety and damage reasons.
Quickly flush the hull out with fresh water. Gasoline will attack the Iso-Pad shaft mounting system as well as the fiberglass resin, if
left for a period of time.
NOTE: Do not use gasoline with alcohol at more than 10% alcohol, commonly sold in the Northern climates during winter months.
The alcohol will damage the rubber diaphragms in the carburetor and water pump.
NOTE: Do not operate your boat in water that is less than 50 degrees Fahrenheit, these temperatures can cause hairline cracks in
the Gel coat finish by sheer water impact.
NOTE: Always make sure that you are the ONLY person operating on your radios frequency. If two or more radios are occupying the
same frequency you will no longer have control of your boat.
STANDARD ENFORCER DRIVE CABLE REPLACEMENT AND REPAIR ORDERING INSTRUCTIONS
The Enforcer Flexible Drive Cable is produced from the best possible materials for its design. A 1/4” spring steel
cable is soldered into a brass ferrule on end (drive connector), and a 1/4” O.D. stainless steel precision ground prop
shaft is threaded into the other (prop end). When combined it produces the strongest drive assembly available, however the drive cable is a wearable item. Drive cables will eventually break and for the most part the overall life can
different it each case. The drive cable is under extreme stress in normal operations and over time it will simply give
in and break. We have designed this assembly to be repaired at home by means of standard 50/50 plumbing solder
and a propane torch. We provide all the instructions necessary to do so when a spare drive cable is purchased.
Complete drive cables are available factory made from Warehouse Hobbies or your local hobby shop.
SPD III DRIVE CABLE ASSEMBLY
Flex cable to Ferrule
Stub Shaft to Ferrule
Stub Shaft overall length
Stub Shaft overall length
Complete Shaft Assembly Overall Length
Sep. 2003 to current
STUB SHAFT 4,3/4”
FERRULE
1.5”
CABLE (OA)
10 5/8”
OVERALL
15 1/4”
Threaded stub end, screws into threaded
end on ferrule at a 5/8” depth.
NOTE: Current production for the SPD drive cable is for the
following Enforcer production models:
TEAM PRO, SUPER SPORT SC, MAN-O-WAR,
MANTA RAY, MAGNUM 57
For use with SPD III drive systems only.
Please call for older model applications or use the diagrams
provided to have a custom cable produced, or to order repair
parts.
Flexible cable “slip fits” into ferrule end and is
soldered in place with standard 50/50 solder.
Cable inserts at a 3/4” depth.
Here are a few tips that will extend drive cable life:
1)- GREASE YOUR DRIVE CABLE DAILY.
The most important operation you can do to extend drive cable life is to grease the cable at the beginning of each days operation. It is best to grease it by hand before installing the cable assembly into the SPD body. Once installed apply 1 ounce
of grease into the nose (grease fitting) on your engine.
2)- Avoid jumping large waves, (6” +) When the boat re-enters the water from a wave roll back the throttle.
When your boat becomes airborne the engine load is released allowing the prop rpm's to rapidly climb. Once the prop reenters the water the extreme re-loading is transmitted directly to the drive cable. These actions can cause pre-mature drive
cable failure.
3)- Avoid high speed “spin-outs”.
High speed spin-outs are also very hard on your drive line. The same results are present when the prop airs out and then bits
hard when re-entering the water.
4)- Replace Teflon Shaft Liner.
The 3/8” steel drive shaft tube is protected by a removable 3/8” o.d. X 7” Teflon liner material. This material helps protect
both the shaft tube as well as the flexible cable. It can be pulled out from the back of the boat and inspected for holes or
tears and should be replaced if evident. We recommend that you replace the Teflon line every other drive cable replacement.
When installing the new Teflon liner, insert it into the shaft tube until it makes contact with the drive connector on the engine. Allow 1” to be exposed past the transom and cut off any excess.
ENFORCER SOLDER-LESS DRIVE CABLE REPLACEMENT AND REPAIR ORDERING INSTRUCTIONS
1
Stub Shaft to Ferrule
3
Flex cable overall length
Stub Shaft overall length
2
Complete Shaft Assembly Overall Length
4
Note: The number system above 1 through 4 can help us in determining what type of cable you have and what type
or length you may need. Please have this page handy when calling us for service.
1
2
3
4
COMPLETE SOLDER-LESS CABLE KIT FOR REPLACEMENT AS OF 8/08
(Includes; cable, ferrule, prop shaft)
SUPER G: 13, 3/16”
TEAM ENFORCER: 15, 1/4”
MAN-O-WAR: 15, 1/4”
MANTA RAY: 15, 1/4”
MAGNUM 57: 15, 1/4”
SOLDER-LESS FERRULE
PROP SHAFT 1/4” DIA.
1/4” X 28 THREADED ENDS
SQUARE RECEIVER
THREADED FOR PROP SHAFT
There are (2) Enforcer prop shaft lengths available.
1– Overall, 4, 3/4” SPD III Drive System
2– Overall, 3, 1/2” XP-2 and XP-2P Drive System
ENFORCER DOUBLE SQUARE END 1/4” STEEL WOUND FLEXIBLE CABLE
STOCK LENGTHS FOR ENFORCER PRODUCTION BOATS AND KITS
SUPER G— 9, 3/8” (+ - ) 1/8”
ALL BOATS WITH SPD III DRIVE— 10, 1/2” (+ -) 1/8”
WATER PUMP AND COOLING SYSTEM
SYSTEM PLUMBING DIAGRAM
Water-Cooled Head
Arrows on water
pump indicate
flow directions.
Water Pump
Note:
Water pump configuration differs on factory
Enforcer boats.
From Pulse Tap fitting
(Engine)
Water-Cooled Manifold
Leave 1/16” - 1/8” gap between
header and pipe.
Water Pick-up
Silicone
Water Inlet from Manifold
Pro-Wet Tuned Exhaust
The Water Pump and cooling system requires very little maintenance. The water pump is operated by the negative and positive vacuum created in the engines crank case when the engine is running, therefore no outside replaceable power source (batteries) are required. The pump can be operated in both fresh and salt water, however when used in salt water the system must be flushed with
fresh water for a minimum of 3 minutes after use. Failure to do so can cause serious damage to the entire cooling system.
The Pump Pulse Port is located on the underside of the intake manifold on your engine. This is the point that the pressure and vacuum is taken from the engine and directed to the diaphragm section of the water pump. This hose should be checked for leaks or
cracks over time and replaced when necessary. Any breach in this tube will result in a very high idle speed and poor performance.
The Water-Cooled Head, Exhaust Manifold and Header are vital to the performance of your Enforcer. The Water-Cooled head,
Exhaust Manifold, and Exhaust Header all work together keeping the engine and exhaust system at the proper operating temperatures.
They must receive cooling water at all times when the boat is in operation. It is good to periodically check all hoses for leaks and
obstructions. This hose MUST NOT be longer than 5”.
The Pro-Wet Tuned Exhaust requires no maintenance however it is vital that water flows unobstructed through the pipe and out of
the boat when in operation. The pipe is tuned with the water induced, in the event that the water-cooling system becomes clogged, the
boats performance will reduce greatly. This is very obvious, at full throttle without water your boat can loose as much as 15 miles per
hour. If this becomes obvious during operation bring the boat back to the shore immediately and rectify the problem. Failure to do so
can cause damage to the engine and exhaust system.
SPD III DRIVE SYSTEM ADJUSTMENTS
Loosen these two nuts/bolts to
adjust the SPD drive angle.
NEUTRAL ADJUSTMENT
Adjustment for slight water conditions.
Bottom of hull
Parallel distance with the
bottom of the keel and
straight edge.
STRAIGHT EDGE (RULER)
BOW UP ADJUSTMENT
Adjustment for calm water conditions.
Bottom of hull
STRAIGHT EDGE (RULER)
Slight upward angle will
lift the bow of the boat.
This angle shown is exaggerated for viewing purposes. Very little angle is
required.
BOW DOWN ADJUSTMENT
Adjustment for rough water conditions.
Bottom of hull
STRAIGHT EDGE (RULER)
Slight downward angle
will lower the bow of the
boat.
This angle shown is exaggerated for viewing purposes. Very little angle is
required.
The above three diagrams show how the SPD Drive can effect the performance, or “running attitude” of your boat. We recommend that the drive is adjusted as shown in the first drawing, (Neutral) position. This is a good starting place especially for the
first time model boater. The best way to determine how and when your drive should be adjusted will come with time and experience. When the water conditions are calm the hull will tend to stick to the water and run what is refereed to as “wet”. The best
way to get the boat to run bow high or, “dry” is to adjust the drive angle slightly positive or “up”. The same goes for rough water
conditions only opposite , you adjust the drive negative, “downward”. Remember it takes very little adjustment to make a difference, so it is best to make small adjustments and test between each. If too much adjustment is made either way, performance will
be greatly reduced. The easiest way to tell if your boat and propeller is running efficient is to observe the “rooster tail”. A low
and long rooster tail is optimum. Example; 1-2 feet in height and 6-8 feet in length. Once you become familiar with water conditions and the way your boat performs in them, you will easily be able to observe the water and make the correct adjustments.
ADJUSTING YOUR TRIM TABS
(If applicable)
Adjustment barrel (turn)
Jam nut
Tighten once set
NEUTRAL
This is the best starting point when
setting up your new boat.
Use this setting when the water has a
minimal to moderate chop, smooth
to 1 - 2 inches of chop.
Use a straight edge to determine a
neutral trim tab setting.
BOW DOWN
By angling the trim tabs downward
as shown the bow of the boat will be
forced downward. Use this setting in
rough water conditions.
Settings to extreme can cause bow
steering. In some instances where the
water is too rough and aggressive
“bow down” setting may be required
as well as negative strut angle and
slower running speeds.
BOW UP
Use this setting when the water is
calm. This will allow the bow to
climb as the speed is increased.
A “bow up” setting virtually eliminates the usefulness of the trim tabs
which can make it very easy to overturn commonly referred to as a
“blow over” your boat.
To make adjustments first loosen the “jam” nut, then turn the “adjusting barrel” clockwise to lower and
counter clockwise to raise. Practice is required when adjusting your boats trim tabs.
The trim tabs can work in conjunction with the drive systems strut angle. We recommend that all new
boaters set the strut angle neutral and adjust the trim tabs to control the boats running attitude. As you become more failure with your boats environment and adjustments, both the strut angle and trim tabs can be
fine tuned for optimum running in different water conditions. In extreme water conditions where the water chop exceeds 4 inches a model running at speeds of 40 miles per hour can easily loose control and
even “blow over” or “barrel roll”. There is a point that extreme adjustments will actually cause erratic
handling and these rough water conditions can only be mastered by slower operating speeds.
We recommend that you make very miner adjustments and test between each until you are satisfied with
your boats performance. Once satisfied keep a journal handy and record your successful settings for future use, these can be used in comparison with similar water conditions.
Note: Be sure to tighten jam nut after making adjustments.
TYPICAL TRANSOM HARDWARE LAYOUT
TRANSOM (REAR) VIEW
C
ANTENNA
PIPE EXIT HOLE
STEERING BOOT
RIGHT TRIM TAB
LEFT TRIM TAB
NOTE
Apply Silicone to all screws
entering transom.
SPD MOUNT
UNI-STRUT MOUNT
DRIVE SHAFT EXIT
TRANSOM (INSIDE) VIEW
Secure in place with
silicone adhesive.
Secure in place with
silicone adhesive.
UNI-STRUT MOUNT PLATE
Contoured taper by design. Install
O-ring 3” up on pipe. Apply Silicone bead aft of the O-ring and install pipe as a complete system, push
O-ring towards inner transom to
form a water-tight seal.
SPD MOUNT PLATE
G260PUM ENGINE SHOWN
C
1,
Min 1/2”
imu
m
3/4
”
Angle adjust
This new design with the 1/2 size IsoPad allows you to begin the bend
closer to the transom for less angle.
Shaft tube extends 1/16”
Concept and Design by: Tony Castronovo 1983, 1997, 2001, 2008
Drawing by: Tony Castronovo 2008
1/4” X 1” PLASTIC SPACER (2)
Install between rubber mount and stringer, each side.
Allow 3/4” to penetrate nose
mount, and 1, 1/2” overall straight
section before starting bend.
Determine where the engine will mount. Taking consideration
the required shaft angle, mount the engine by drilling (2) 1/4”
holes in each stringer (rail) as shown.
Note: Mount the engine as low as possible to
keep the CG low, however leave at least
1/8” clearance between any portion of the
engine and the fiberglass hull.
Note: When bending the shaft tube it is best to
make the least degree of bend as possible. We recommend not to exceed 25 degrees.
It is best to make the bend over a longer distance
and gradual as shown below.
You can use a 2” X 4” mounted in a vice with a
3/8” hole drilled in the center. Insert the steel tube
and gradually bend the tubing as you work it out of
the 2” X 4” block. Make gradual bends testing
after each.
PREPARING THE DRIVE SHAFT TUBE
TYPICAL ENGINE AND DRIVE SHAFT TUBE INSTALLATION USING ENFORCER “EASY-MOUNTS” AND ISO-PAD
Concept and Design by: Tony Castronovo 1983, 1997, 2001, 2008
Drawing by: Tony Castronovo 2008
5” - 5, 1/8” SPACING
Note: Tighten firm but do not
over– tighten.
T-25 10 X 1/2” PH SCREW (4)
ALUMINUM MOUNT
INSERT– 5/8”—3/4”
3/8 OD. SHAFT TUBE
ADJUST UP / DOWN
COMPRESSION FITTING
NOSE FLANGE
CLUTCH HOUSING
FRONT MOUNT INSTALLATION DIAGRAM FOR ZENOAH G260PUM MARINE ENGINE
1” RUBBER MOUNT PAD (4)
1/4 X 20 LOCK NUT(2)
FACES CLUTCH END
DRILL 4 HOLES: 7/32”
USE MEDIUM THREAD-LOCK
8-32 X 1/2” SHCS (4)
ALUMINUM PLATE SUPPLIED WITH G260 ZENOAH ENGINE
Concept and Design by: Tony Castronovo 1983, 1997, 2001, 2008
Drawing by: Tony Castronovo 2008
1/4” FLAT WASHER(4)
1/4” X 20 HHB (4)
OPTIONAL USE
COIL RE-LOCATOR
USE MEDIUM THREAD-LOCK
6-32 X 1/2” SHCS (2)
ASSEMBLED FORWARD MOUNT
MOUNT INSTALLATION DIAGRAM FOR ZENOAH G260PUM MARINE ENGINE
CLUTCH SHOE (2)
SPRING WASHER (2)
CLUTCH BOLT (2)
CLUTCH BELL
BEARING (2)
CLUTCH HOUSING
1/2” X 1” SPACER (4)
SHAFT ADAPTER
6MM BOLT
CLUTCH SPRING
ENFORCER CABLE GREASING
INSERT 1oz. “00” GREASE BEFORE EACH DAILY RUN
# 10 X 1/2” TORX SMS (4)
NOSE MOUNT
COMPRESSION FITTING
NOSE MOUNT BRACKET
1/4” X 2” BOLT (4)
Concept and Design by: Tony Castronovo 1983, 1997, 2001, 2008
Drawing by: Tony Castronovo 2008
EXPLODED VIEW OF COMPLETE ENFORCER CLUTCH ASSEMBLY AND FORWARD ENGINE MOUNT
For your convienence we have pre-assembled the clutch and mount system, however some disassembly will be required to attach to your engine. When mounting the; clutch mount plate, clutch adapter, and clutch bolts, we recommend that you use a medium strength thread lock compound.
FLAT WASHER (2)
CLUTCH ADAPTER
10-32 PHMS (4)
SPLIT WASHER
HARD WASHER
CLUTCH MOUNT PLATE
1” SPRING CLIP
1/4” SPLIT WASHER (4)
CLUTCH AND FORWARD MOUNT ASSEMBLY