THE PIPER J-3 CUB STORY Page 1 of 37 Sig J

Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
Page 1 of 37
The yellow Piper J-3 Cub is one of
aviation's genuine classics. In the
decades right before and after World
War II, the cub was the most commonly
seen fightplane at airports all over the
country. It's been said that back then
most people thought that every airplane
flying was either a DC-3 or a Piper Cub.
Today if you mention the word Cub to a
person who has flown in one, he'll
undoubtably become lighthearted, his
eyes will start to sparkle and the
whimsical hanger flying tales will begin.
The J-3's charm and legendary flying
abilities have made it one of the most
Ken Breiting, left, explains the radio control system in his Sig prototype Cub to
famous, best loved airplanes of all
Larry Frost, the owner of the mint full-size J-3 in the background. Larry actually
rebuilt NC5793N from the mangled remains of a wrecked Army L-4
To understand the Cub's appeal, look back at aviation as it was in 1930. Lindbergh had crossed the altlantic just three
years earlier and made the world "air conscious". Airplanes were getting faster and more powerful every day. Air racing and
distance records were front page news. But while the major aircraft manufacturers were busy pushing ahead the state of
the flying art, thousands of prospective pilots with limited pocketbooks were being left behind. The cheap barnstorming
Curtiss Jenny's were gone, replaced by impressive, but expensive airplanes of the Stearman and Stinson class. With the
Depression on, many people wanted to fly but couldn't afford to. What general aviation needed was a simple economical
two-seat trainer!
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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The basic Cub design emerged in 1930 as the open cockpit Taylor E-2 Cub. It was the product of a fledging company in
Pennsylvania headed by designer C.G. Taylor and buinessman William T. Piper. Taylor left the partnership in 1935 to start
his own Taylorcraft company, but his self-taught design genius had made the E-2 a perfect foundation for Piper's business
talents to expand on. In 1936 the J-2 Cub was introduced with an enclosed cabin and 40 h.p. engine. Sales picked up
impressively over the E-2.
In 1937 a further improved version of the Cub was introduced, the legendary J-3. It became the first really successful
commercial lightplane - 14,125 were produced between 1937 and 1947. At last fixed base operators had a simple
economical trainer that could take all of the abuse students gave it. America's weekend pilots found an affordable basic
stick and rudder machine that set a new standard for fun and docility. Being equally at home on wheels, floats or skis, the
J-3 could be flown in and out of places other airplanes couldn't get close to. The Cub also found work towing gliders and
banners, and even doing small-time crop dusting. J-3s have always been at home at airshows too. Crazy "drunken" Cub
acts, landing and taking off from moving automobiles, and aerobatics in clipped wing versions are just a few of the things
the J-3 could do to entertain.
Piper seemed to follow Henry Ford's lead when it came to factory paint jobs for the J-3. "You can have any color you like
as long as its yellow!" Standard factory markings were black lightning bolts down the fuselage sides, black registration
numbers, and the Cub bear emblem. Today, it's hard to imagine a Cub painted any other way.
The Army used a version of the Cub, the L-4, for utility work during World War II. The L-4 was little more than an olive drab
J-3 with a greenhouse style cabin. 5,673 L-4s were produced between 1942-1945. Nicknamed the "Grasshopper", they
were used for observation, aerial photography, artillery spotting, as transports, and as ambulances.
Even though the J-3 has been out of production since 1947, they are still in great demand by pilots who want a superior,
no frills, fun flying machine. As long as there are pilots around who still fly purely for the adventure of flight, and who don't
care about all the latest gadgets, dials, horns, and whistles, there will always be yellow Piper Cubs!
Die-Cut Balsa Sheets
4 Sheet No.1 W4 ribs
3 Sheet No.2 W3, T-1, W3A
1 Sheet No.3 W1, T-4
2 Sheet No.5 W5, T-2, T-3, WS-2
2 Sheet No.6 R1, WS-1, T-5,
T-6, Tail Fairing
2 Sheet No.7 F8, F9, F10, F11, W6, WG-1 1 Sheet No.8 F2, F3, F4,
F12, F13, W4B
1 Sheet No.4 W2, W4A
1 Sheet No.10 MF-1, MF-2,
F5G, CF-1, CF-2
2 Sheet No.11 MF-3, MF-4, MF-5, Stab
Mount Blocks
1 Sheet No.12 F7A, CF-3,
FSM-2, RSM-2, Windows
4 3/32"x1-1/2"x43-1/2" T.E.
4 3/32"x1-1/2"x30" Aileron Top and
Bottom Sheeting
4 3/32"x3"x43-1/2" L.E.
1 3/16"x4-7/16"x1-1/2" Left Wing Spar
1 3/16"x6"x7-1/8"
Landing Gear Farings
7 1/8"x1/4"x36" Fuse Side Stringers,
Former Stiffners
2 1/8"x7/8"x43-1/2"
Leading Edges
Printed Balsa Sheets
1 Sheet No.9 Tail Surface Parts
Sheet Balsa
1 1/16"x4-1/8"x36" Spar Webs
4 3/32"x4"x36" Sheeting for
1 1/8"x4"x18" Nose Top
Center-Section, W1-W2 Rib Bay,
Wing Tip Leading Edge
Stick Balsa
8 1/16"x3/4"x24" Wingtip
14 3/32"x1/4"x36" Capstrips
2 3/16"x3/8"x36" Cabin Tops, Top 3 1/4"x1/4"x43-1/2" Rear
4 1/4"x1/4"x36" Center Section Spas,
Stringer, F7 Fill-In
Bottom Spas, Spar Doubler
Nose Stringer, Corner Stringer, FSM
Cross Supports, T.E. Cross piece
6 1/4"x3/8"x36" Center
Section Fill-In, Tail
Surface Ribs
3 1/4"x1/2"x36" Window Braces,
F5 & F6 Fill-In, Parts of F5, F6,
4 1/4"x1-1/2"x30" Aileron
16 5/16"x5/16"x36" Main Frame Sides and 1 5/16"x1-1/8"x18"
Leading Edge, Wing Aileron,
Cross Pieces, Windshield Braces
Shaped Trailing Edge
Cutout Liner
3 3/8"x1/2"x36" Stab. L.E.,
Elev.L.E., Rudder L.E., Fin T.E.
1 3/8"x5/8"x36" Fin L.E.,
2 3/8"x1"x44-7/8" Leading Edge Cap
Rudder T.E., Rudder Bottom
1 1"x1"x5-3/4" Triangular
Stock Wing Bolt Support
Block Balsa
2 1-34"x2-1/4"x3-1/2" Cabin
1 5/8"x6-1/4"x7" Nose
Bottom Block
Sawn Plywood
3 1/8"x1"x6" L.G. Block Doublers, 1 1/4"x1/2"x24" Former F5
Strut Mount Insert
1 1/4"x2-1/4"x6-1/4" F5 Top
1 1/4"x3/4"x8" Ply Rear
1 1/4"x7/8"x15-3/4" Front
Dihedral Brace
Music Wire
1 set 5/32" Dia. Formed Cabin
1 3/16" Dia. Formed Mail L.G. 1 3/16" Dia. Formed L.G. Brace
1 1/8" Dia. Formed L.G. Bottom
Shock Strut Wire
2 1/16" Dia. Straight Elev. &
Rudder Pushrod Ends
1 1/8" Dia.Formed L.G.
Top Shock Strut Wire
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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1 3/8"x1-1/2"x5-3/8"
Basswood Wing Bolt Block
2 1/2"x1"x6" Basswood L.G.
BlocksWing Bolt Blocks
1 1/2"x1/2"x6" Basswood
Cowl Mount Blocks
1 3/8"x1-7/16"x1" Basswood Elevator
Horn Insert
1 3/8"x3/8"x4" Spruce
Elevator Joiner
8 1/4"x1/4"x43-1/2" Spruce
Wing Spars
1 1/4"x1/4"x9" Spruce for
Dihedral Brace Box
1 1/4"x3/8"x36" Spruce Cabin Tops,
Hatch Supports
1 1/4"x3/8"x18" Spruce Hatch 2 1/4"x1/2"x31" Spruce Rear 2 1/4"x5/8"x30-11/16"
Wing Struts
Spruce Front Wing Struts
1 1/4" Dia.x2" Dowel Wing Front Hold
4 3/16" Dia.x2-1/2" Dowel
Fiberglass Pushrod Ends
Brass and Aluminum
2 Brass Tubing Jury Strut
Cross Pieces
4 Brass Tubing Jury Strut
2 Aluminum Fuse Strut
4 Aluminum Upper Strut Fittings
1 030 ABS Formed Air Cleaner, 1 set 090 ABS Formed Cowl
Bungee Covers
1 030x5/16"x17" ABS Cowl
Joiner Strip
1 set 060 ABS Formed Dummy Engine
1 set 060 ABS Formed Dummy 1 030 Clear Windshield Top
Engine Top Shrouds
2 030 Clear Side Windows
2 Aluminum Lower Strut
4 4-40 Heavy Duty RC linksAilerons(2), Elevator(1),
4 4-40x8" Threaded Rods for 3 Long Nylon Control HornsAilerons, Elevator and
Ailerons(2), Elevator(1)
2 #2x3/4" Sheet Metal Screws- 14 #4x1/2" Sheet Metal
Elevator Horn
Screws- L.G. Attachment
(8), Cowel Mounting(6)
4 2-56x10" Threaded RodsTail Brace Wires
8 #2x3/8" Sheet Metal Screws - Aileron
Horns(2), Tail Brace Wires(2),
4 2-56 RC Links - Tail Brace Wire Ends
6 Solder Links- Tail Brace Wire 3 2-56x1/2" Bolts- Tail Brace 7 2-56 Hex Nuts- Tail Brace
10 4-40x3/8" Bolts- Top of Jury Struts
Wire Attach(3), Jam Nuts on
Ends(4), Rudder/Elevator,
Wire Attach
(4), Fuse Strut Fitting Attach(4),
Brace Wires(4)
Wing Strut Linkage to Fuse Strut
4 4-40x3/4" Bolts- Wing Strut
Attach to Wing
4 4-40x1/2" Flat Head Bolts - 12 4-40 Blind Nuts- Fuse Strut 6 4-40 Hex Nuts- Bottom of Jury Struts
Bottom of Jury Struts
Fit(4), Jury & Wing Struts(8)
(4), Wing Strut Linkage to Fuse(2)
4 Molded Nylon Landing Gear
2 1/4-20x1" Nylon Wing Bolts 1 6-32x3/4" Socket Head
Bolt- Right Wing Panel
1 #6 Flat Metal Washer- Right 1 Roll of Soft Copper Wire
Wing Panel Attachment
1 6-32 Blind Nuts- Right Wing Panel
1 Bag 20 Complete Hinges
1 Bag Complete Tailwheel Assembly
1 Decal Sheet
1 Instruction Book
1 Plan Plate 1
1 Plan Plate 2
1 Plan Plate 3
1 Plan Plate 4
2 5/16" od.x32" Fiberglass
Pushrod Tubes
1 3/16"od.x36 Nylon Tubing Internal
Antenna Mount
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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The 1/4 scale Piper J-3 Cub can be flown with a wide variey of engines. In fact, there is such a vast number of good quality
motors available on the market today for a model of this size and type that it is impossible for us to recommend one
particular motor over all others. The engines shown here are just a few that we have tried in the Cub. Generally speaking,
we've found that any glow model engine, either a .60-.90 size 2-stroke or a .90-1.60 size 4-stroke, can be recommended for
the 1/4 scale Cub. Any brand glow engine that you choose, within these limits, should provide your Cub with good flight
2-Stroke or 4-Stroke?
The first choice you must make in selecting an engine for your Cub is to decide whether you want to use a 2-stroke or 4stroke motor. From the reports that we have received from our customers, 4-stroke engines have proven to be much more
popular for the Cub than 2-strokes. In fact, a 4-stroke engine seems to bring out the best in a slow flying airplane like the
Cub. That's because a 4-stroke model engine produces its maximum power at a relatively low r.p.m., just like the full-scale
Cub's engine. In other words, it more closely duplicates the power curve of the full-scale motor. While a typical 2-stroke R/C
sport engine will normally run at between 10,000 to 13,000 r.p.m. in high throttle, a 4-stroke model engine runs about 7,000
to 9,000 r.p.m. in high. That enables the 4-stroke to turn a larger, more scale size propellor than the 2-stroke model engine
could. The large, slow turning prop provides more pulling power for a slow flying airplane like the Cub, giving it an excellent
rate of climb without having excessive airspeed in level flight. A 4-stroke engine is the best choice if you want your Cub to
have super realistic flight performance.
In testing 2-stroke engines in the Cub, we found that a .78-.90 size 2-stroke provided the best all round performance. Fly it
throttled back for realistic speed in level flight and go to full power for aerobatics. We also tried a schneurle-ported .60 2stroke in one of our Cubs. While it provided very realistic airspeed, most modelers would feel it was underpowered. Even
though it would loop out of level flight with no preliminary dive needed, and would cruise in level flight at near scale speed
with 3/4 throttle, the climbouts and turns had to be kept very gentle to avoid a stall. A .78-.90 size 2-stroke provides an extra
margin of safety. In conclusion, while a 2-stroke engine can fly the 1/4-scale Cub very well, they do tend to fly the model
faster in level flight than a 4-stroke would. You have to run them fast in level flight in order to have good climb performance.
We do not recommend converted "chain saw type" gas engines for this model. They tend to vibrate more than a precision
made glow engine and are usually too bulky to fit inside the cowling.
Regardless of what size and type of engine you decide to use, strive to keep your Cub as light as possible for best flight
ENYA .90 4-stroke represents typical
installation of a single-cylinder 4-stroke
engine in the Cub. Motor is sidemounted
for easy starting and dependable Idle.
Uses a J'Tee #JT-64 Aluminum Engine
Mount, J'Tee #JT-ENS Muffler, and 15-6
prop. No dummy engine needed on this
side of the cowling.
O.S. GEMINI 1.20 twin-cylinder 4stroke engine mounted in the Cub. Note
3/8" thick spacer between back of
engine mount and firewall, to provide
correct firewall-to-prop distance. Cowl is
modified to come apart In two pieces,
ala the full-scale Cub (upper section is
removed in pboto).
Webra .91 2-stroke engine mounted
inverted in the Cub. C.B. Associates
15310 Aluminum Engine Mount, Slimline
#3401 Sport Scale Muffler with
homemade copper tubing exhaust
extensions (plumbing variety copper
tubing from hardware store). Inverted
engines can be difficult to start.
No motor mounts are supplied in this kit because of the wide range of engines that can be used. A suitable radial firewalltype mount (such as Tatone, Fox, CB, Hayes,etc.) should be available for just about any mass produced engine. The
distance from the front of the cowl to the firewall is adequate for most all .60 to .90 glow engines. Less common engines
may require some preplanning and modification in this area.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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There is no one type of muffler that is best suited for the Cub. It all depends on the particular engine that you've elected to
use. You will have to figure out your own muffler installation. We have had good luck adapting the "exhaust manifold" type
mufflers (such as made by Tatone and Slimline) to most .60 to .90 glow engines. Usually they can be made to fit with just
slight alterations. Use copper or heat-proof rubber tubing to extend the exhaust pipes to the outside of the cowling.
Recommended Glues
Sig-Bond (alphatic resin type) glue works best for the majority of the general framework construction. Areas subjected to
unusual strain, or including metal pieces, should be epoxied with Sig Epoxy Glue (slow drying) or Sig Kwik-Set (5-minute)
Epoxy Glue. You will also find that the cyanoacrylate type adhesives (Hot Stuff, Jet, etc.) can be extremely quick and
handy for some applications. Some of the steps in this instruction sequence call out the specific type of glue to use for that
particular assembly. In other areas you can use your own judgement as to which type is best suited to the purpose and
your building schedule.
About The Building Sequence
The quickest and most efficient way to complete a model is to work on several pieces at the same time. While the glue is
drying on one section you can start on or proceed with another part. The numbering sequence used in this book was
chosen as the best way of explaining the building of each major assembly and is not intended to be followed in exact onetwo-three fashion. It may be desirable, for example, to start building the wing or tail while the preliminary parts of the
fuselage are drying. It is suggested that you read the instruction book and study the plan carefully before beginning to
build. That will help make it clear where construction out of the descriptive sequence can be done.
Notes Before Beginning Construction
Any reference to right or left refers to right or left as if you were seated in the cockpit.
Building large airplanes requires a large building board! For this Cub, you will need a board that is at least 18" wide x 72"
long. It must be perfectly flat and untwisted. If you don't have one that big, go to the local lumber yard and purchase a
"door core" of at least these dimensions. Door cores are normally very straight and true (be sure to inspect it before
buying), and they are not too expensive.
A piece of thin foam board or celotex-type wallboard makes a handy top surface for your building board, into which pins
can be easily pushed. Don't be afraid to use plenty of pins while building, particularily when gluing planking on the top
curve of the wing or the round top of the nose.
Due to their large size, the full-size fuselage and wing plans had to be drawn in two pieces. Cut out the adjoining pieces
and carefully tape them together along the break lines. Wax paper should be used to protect the plans during building.
Be careful where you use a ball point pen for making marks on the model during construction. If not sanded off, these
marks may bleed through many coats of dope and show on the finished model.
Cut all long pieces of balsa first, followed by medium lengths, before cutting up any full length strips into short pieces.
Leave the die-cut parts in the sheets until needed in construction. Remove pieces from the sheets carefully. If difficulty is
encountered, do not force the part from the sheet. Use a modeling knife to cut it free.
A jig saw is best for cutting out the printed balsa parts. Cut just outside the lines, leaving all of the line on the part. When
fitting the piece into the structure, use a sanding block to bring the edges to an exact fit.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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1. Building The Fuselage Formers
Due to their large size, some of the fuselage formers could not be furnished in one-piece, but need to be built up from
several pieces. Take great care in the next few steps to insure that these formers are built accurately. How well you make
them match the plan will determine how well other fuselage parts will fit together later
Refer to Cross-Section F5 of the full size plans. Former F5 consists of one 1/4" ply Top, two 1/4"x1/2" ply Sides, and one
1/4"x1/2" balsa Bottom. Cut the 1/4"x1/2" ply pieces from the 24" long stock provided. Cut the 1/4"x1/2" balsa Bottom from
36" long stock. A piece of 1/4"x2-1/4"x6-1/4" plywood is provided for the former Top. Cut two 1/2"x15/16" notches in the
bottom corners of the top as shown here.
Cover the Cross-Section F5 drawing with waxed paper and epoxy the pieces of F5 together directly over the drawing.
Build former F6 directly over plan Cross-Section F6. This former consists simply of four pieces of 1/4"x1/2" balsa, cut from
36" stock.
Former F7 consists of two 1/4"x1/2" balsa Sides, one 1/4"x1/2" balsa Bottom, one printed balsa part F7A, and one die-cut
lite-ply Cabin Bulkhead. Cut out these parts and glue together over the F7 CrossSection drawing.
The die-cut balsa rear fuselage formers
F8, F9, F10, and F11 each come in two
pieces. Glue the halves together at the
center. F8, F9, and F10 should each be
reinforced with a piece of 1/8"x1/4"
balsa, as shown.
2. Fuselage Frame Assembly
Cut the MF-1, MF-2, MF-3, MF-4 and MF-5 pieces from the 5/16" printed balsa sheets. Cover the Fuselage Main Frame
drawing with wax paper or plastic wrap for protection. Using the printed parts and 5/16" square balsa stick, construct two
identical main frame sides directly over the drawing. When dry, pin both main frame sides together and lightly even up the
edges with a sanding block.
Epoxy the die-cut lite-ply Fuse Side Sheeting onto the main frame sides. Be sure to make a right and leftl And try not to get
excess epoxy in the cutouts in the main frame for the landing gear blocks.
With a sanding block, bevel the inside rear ends of the fuselage sides where they will join together later.
The top structure of the cabin/window area, where the wing will sit, is a lamination of 1/4"x3/8" spruce to 3/16"x3/8" balsa.
From 36" long stock, cut two spruce and two balsa pieces to proper length. Glue the balsa pieces to the spruce pieces in a
manner which will give you a Right and Left Cabin Top piece.
Pin the Right Cabin Top piece in place on the Side View plan (balsa side up). Pin the Right Fuselage Side in place on the
plan (plywood side down). Carefully draw lines on these parts to mark the exact locations of formers F5, F6 and F7.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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Epoxy formers F5, F6 and F7 to the Right Fuselage Side and Cabin Top piece. Glue them on one at a time with 5-minute
epoxy. Use a triangle to get them on square.
Epoxy the Left Cabin Top piece in place along the top of the formers. When dry, measure at each former from the bottom of
the Right Cabin Top to the top edge of the Right Fuse Side. Then transfer this measurement onto the left side of the
formers, this time measuring down from the bottom of the just-installed Left Cabin Top. These marks will come in handy as
a guide when aligning the Left Fuse Side in the next step.
Epoxy the Left Fuselage Side onto the formers. Accurate positioning during this assembly is very critical in building a
straight fuselage! It's best to mark the former locations on the inside of the Fuse Side before gluing them on. We prefer to
use slow drying epoxy and lots of pins for this assembly so that there is plenty of time for getting an accurate alignment of
the fuse sides to each other before the glue dries. And don't forget to check that the sides will properly line up with each
other at the tail end. Let dry before proceeding.
Epoxy 1/8"x1"x6" plywood Landing Gear Block Doublers to the top side of the Grooved Landing Gear Blocks. When dry,
epoxy the blocks in place in the fuselage. Make sure that the grooves in the blocks are 5-7/8" apart as shown in the side
view fuselage plan.
Epoxy the 1/8"x1"x6" plywood Strut Mount Insert in front of the rear Landing Gear Block
Set the fuselage on the Top View plan, pinning down the area between formers F6 and F7. Pull in the rear ends of the fuse
sides and glue together parts MF-5 where they meet on the center line of the plan. Let dry.
NOTE: With the rear half of the fuselage down against the plan, the length and curve of the sides
won't match that drawn on the plan. This isn't a mistake but is simply because the Top View plan
shows the fuselage as it would look from above when the fuselage is sitting level not like it is now
with the upswept rear half sitting flat on the plan.
Consequently, to join the remainder of the rear fuselage, first unpin the fuselage from the plan after the MF-5 joint is dry.
Then cut the 5/16" square balsa cross-pieces to length according to the patterns for each that are drawn alongside the Top
View. Glue and pin these in place starting with the F13 cross-pieces, and then working forward.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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3. Nose Assembly
Epoxy the die-cut plywood firewall parts F1A, F1B and F1C together. Make certain that F1C is centered on the back.
Carefully mark the vertical centerline and the thrust line on the front of the firewall assembly. Position your engine mount on
the front of the firewall, drill holes for mounting, and install blind nuts.
Join the nose main frame sides at the top with the die-cut lite-ply Nose Joiner. Note that the Joiner should not be flush with
the front of the sides, but leaves clearance room for F1C.
Epoxy the nose assembly to the fuselage main frame. Make sure that the nose main frame sides are lined up with the fuse
main frame not flush with the lite-ply fuse side sheeting. The nose will have its own lite-ply side sheeting added later.
Epoxy the firewall assembly in place. Double check with the Side View plan that you get it correctly located vertically. The
easiest way is to draw the thrust line on the main frame sides and match up the line on the firewall with it.
Refer to the F5 cross-section drawing. Make a 5/32"x5/16" hole in the top of plywood former F5 where the 5/32" Cabin
Wires will pass through.
Cut a groove through the top 5/16" square main frame pieces so the Cabin Wires can enter the slot that is between MF-1
and MF-2.
Trial fit the Cabin Wires in place and rebend them slightly if necessary to get a good fit in your model. Take coarse grit
sandpaper and sand the wires in the areas where they will be glued into the model structure. This will improve glue
adhesion. When satisfied with the fit, epoxy the Cabin Wires into the side slots in the nose main frame. Use the glue
liberally, to completely cover the wire where it imbeds into the structure. Be careful that the wire doesn't stick out past the
surface of the main frame since lite-ply sheeting must still be applied later.
Wrap with copper wire and solder the Cabin Wires together where they meet at the front of former F5. When cool, clean any
excess solder flux off the wires and surrounding plywood with dope thinner and a stiff nylon brush. Let the thinner evaporate
out. Smear a fillet of epoxy around the wire binding and onto the front of F5 where they meet.
SPECIAL NOTE: It is best to make provisions now for the fuel tank mounting, while you still have
easy access through the bottom of the nose. Refer ahead to "Tips On Tanks" (section 20), for
some recommendation on the type of setup to use. At this time you should drill any necessary
fuel line holes in the firewall, and make any provisions you prefer for securing the tank in
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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Glue in place balsa formers F2, F3 and F4, and the 1/4" square balsa stringer that goes between them. Check the exact
locations of the formers carefully. When dry, lightly touch up the edges of the formers by running a sanding block over all
three and the ply firewall at the same time.
Sand the sides of the firewall flush with the main frame. Glue on the die-cut lite-ply Nose Side Sheeting.
A 1/8"x4"x18" balsa sheet is provided for planking over the top of the nose formers. It may be necessary to wet the outside
of the sheeting slightly with water to get it to bend easily around the formers.
4. Cabin Area
Add 3/16"x3/8" balsa fill-in pieces to each side of former F7.
Cut out and glue in place the 1/4" printed balsa Window Outlines. They should be glued in flush with the outer surface of the
lite-ply Fuse Sides and the spruce Cabin Tops.
Fill in along both sides of formers F5 and F6 with 1/4"x1/2" balsa. These will stick out past the surface of the lite-ply and
spruce slightly, but will be sanded flush later.
Add 1/4"x1/2" balsa Window Braces to both sides of the cabin, where shown on the plan just ahead of former F6. Glue
these in flush with the Fuse Sides and Cabin Tops.
Install F5G gussets on the back of former F5, to brace it to the Cabin Top pieces.
Cut and glue in place the 5/16" sq. balsa front Windshield Braces. They should
also be glued in flush with the lite-ply Sides and spruce Cabin Tops. You'll have to
hollow out the bottom inside corner of the Windshield Braces slightly so that they
will clear the Cabin Wires.
Block sand all the window area flush with the surface of the fuse sides and cabin
Wood for cabin floor pieces CF-1 and CF-2, that go around the landing gear
blocks, is available on printed sheet #10. The lines drawn there are not exact size
- cut the wood oversize and sand the edges down until the pieces slip into place
between the main frame sides. Then glue in flush with the bottom of the fuselage.
Cut out and glue in the CF-3 Nose Fill-In piece
Add the 5/8" balsa Nose Bottom Block. Note proper grain direction.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
Page 10 of 37
Completing The Fuselage
Glue rear formers F8 through F13 in
place on the main frame. They must be
centered side-to-side. Note in the side
view plan how these formers should be
sitting straight up and down when the
fuselage is propped up level - not
installed 90° to the main frame itself.
Glue in place the 1/4" sq. balsa Top
Corner Stringers and the 1/4" sq. T.E.
Cross-piece that goes on top of former
F7. It may be necessary to soak the
Corner Stringers in water to bend into
shape between formers F7 and F9.
Steerable Tailwheel Unit Assembly
1. Temporarily bolt the two formed
metal Leaf Springs together using
the 6-32x1/2" Mounting Bolts and
the 6-32 Square Anchor Nuts
provided. Note in the drawing that
the shorter leaf spring goes on top.
2. Push the bottom end of the long
Leaf Spring in place inside the
Nylon Tailwheel Bearing. Bolt
securely with the 4-40x3/8"
Mounting Bolts & 4-40 Lock Nuts.
3. Prepare the Formed Tailwheel Wire for installation by first grinding or filing
any burrs from both ends of the wire. Next clamp the entire bottom fork of the
Add the 3/16"x3/8" balsa Top Stringer.
tailwheel wire in a vice and bend the top shaft backward slightly, so that
when installed the tailwheel will be swept back slightly as shown in the fullsize side-view drawing on Plan Plate 1.
Put scrap balsa gussets on each stringer
where they connect to the back of former
4. Solder a Flat Metal Washer just
above the top bend of the Formed
Tailwheel Wire. The purpose of this
washer is to keep the wire from
riding up too high into the Nylon
Tailwheel Bearing and causing a
bind. A second Flat Metal Washer
is provided to solder onto the axle
portion of the tailwheel wire to keep
the tailwheel itself from binding
against the bend of the wire.
5. Install a 1-1/2" diameter Tailwheel
(not furnished) on the axle. Use the
3/32" Wheel Collar and Headless
Set Screw provided to hold the
tailwheel in place.
Glue on the 1/8"x1/4" balsa Side
Stringers. When dry, use a sanding
block to taper them near the front and
the back as shown in the Fuselage Top
6. Push the other 3/32" Wheel Collar
Glue on the 1/8"x1/4" balsa Bottom
provided into the round cavity in
Corner Stringers. Notice in the crossthe molded nylon Steering Arm.
section drawings that these are glued on
Make sure that the set screw hole
flat against the main frame - not on edge
in the wheel collar is lined up with
as were the Side Stringers. Taper these
the hole molded into the steering
stringers also, aft of F13, to blend into
arm. Thread the 4-40 x 3/16" Set
the end of the fuselage.
Screw (round head) into the wheel
Add 1/8" sheet balsa fill-in on the sides
of former F13.
7. Insert the top of the Formed Tailwheel Wire thru the Nylon
Tailwheel Bearing and secure in place with the Steering
Cut the Stab Mount Blocks out of the
Arm. Be sure to file or grind a small flat spot on the wire
printed balsa sheet. Make sure that
where the 4-40 x 3/16" Set Screw will make contact.
these are cut out very accurately and
that they match each other. Glue them in
place on the fuselage, allowing them to 8. During final assembly of the model, after all covering and
painting is done, link the Steering Arm to the Rudder
stick out slightly past the already-tapered
Control Horn with the two Steering Springs provided. Use
Side Stringers. When dry, shape the
a needle nose pliers to bend a hook in each end of the
sides of the Blocks down to blend into
springs to attach in the outermost holes of the steering
the stringers. Remember to maintain a
arm and the back edge of the control horn (see photo in
constant 3/8" width at the end of fuse
section 23)
where the rudder will be hinged.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
Page 11 of 37
Next you must prepare the die-cut plywood Tailwheel Mount (TWM) for
installationon the bottom of the fuselage. Refer to the instructions on assembly of
the Steerable Tailwheel Unit. Once you have the tailwheel assembled, hold it in
position on plywood TWM and mark the hole locations for the 6-32 Mounting
Bolts. Then epoxy the 6-32 Square Anchor Nuts to the top side of TWM. When
dry, carefully inlet the bottom of the fuselage to accept TWM, and then glue it in
place. Be careful not to get any glue in the threads of the anchor nuts.
Shape the entire fuselage with a knife and sanding block to match the crosssections. You will need to have the cowl at hand in order to get the shape of the
nose area just right for a good cowl fit. Thus, refer below to the "Cowling"
instructions and complete the cowl through step (6h.) at this time. Then come
back and finish shaping the fuselage.
Lay the left cowl half on the Fuselage Side View plan and scribe a small mark on the outside of it with a knife to indicate
the exact location of the thrust line. This mark won't be needed until after the cowl halves are joined, but it is much easier
to mark it now while the cowl will sit flat on the plan.
Butyrate dope thinner, MEK, or cyanoacrylate adhesive can be used to assemble
the cowl. Hold the plastic joiner in place on the inside of one cowl half. Leave half
of the joiner strip extending over the edge so as to lap onto the other cowl half
when it is attached. Flow a few drops of adhesive under the edge of the strip. It
will spread along the seam by capillary action. Squeeze and hold together any
area of the strip that is not down tight against the cowl. Be careful not to let the
adhesive get under you finger, it will leave a finger print that may be hard to
After the joiner strip has dried in the first cowl half, hold the second half in place
and carefully flow adhesive into the seam. Squeeze and hold together any areas
of the seam that are open. Allow to dry thoroughly.
Even up the back edge of the cowl with a sanding block.
Due to its large size, the cowl needs to be strengthened by lining the inside with
fiberglass cloth, stuck down with slow-drying epoxy glue or polyester glass resin.
The first step is to sand the inside of the cowl with 80 grit garnet or similar
grained sandpaper. Remove as much of the gloss from the plastic as possible.
Don't worry about scratches in the plastic, a rough surface on the inside will help
the cloth and glue stick better.
CAUTION: Never use.sandpaper coarser than 220 grit on the outside of the
cowl! It will cut deep scratches in the plastic that may open up wider when paint
is applied. Refer to section "Sanding and Painting Plastic Parts", in section 22.
Cut a piece of Sig Regular Weight Glass Cloth (SIGGF001, not supplied) that will cover approximately half of the inside of
the cowl. The cloth is stretchy and will flow most of the contours of the cowl easily. Trial fit the piece of cloth inside the cowl
without any glue to see if you can get it to lay down without any bad wrinkles. If you have had no experience in applying
cloth before, you might consider doing the cowl in 3, or even 4, separate pieces of cloth and batches of glue. It will take a
little longer that way, but you'll probably do a better job.
Mix up a batch of glue large enough for the area you've decided to cover in one step. Brush the glue onto the inside of the
cowl, putting on as smooth a coat as you can. Lay the cloth in place and pat down until it's well saturated with the glue.
Smooth out the cloth, pulling out any wrinkles. When satisfied with the job, mix up another small batch of glue and apply
the next piece of cloth. (Note: An alcohol soaked rag is handy for wiping excess epoxy off your hands or off the outside of
the cowL) After the entire inside of the cowl is covered, let dry thoroughly.
When dry, trim off any excess cloth along the back edge of the cowl with a single edge razor blade or sharp X-Acto knife. If
there are any big uneven spots or ridges inside the cowl, sand them down smooth so that they will not interfere with the fit
of the cowl to the fuselage.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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i. Scrape the seam on the outside of the cowl to take out any rough spots or flaws.
Low spots in the seam can be filled with Sig Epoxolite putty. Don't put on too much
Epoxolite and expect to sand away the excess later. Epoxolite dries very hard and
must be worked into its final desired shape before it hardens. Use your finger or a
single-edge razor blade, dipped in water, to smooth the Epoxolite into the low spots
along the seam. Let dry overnight, then sand the entire cowl smooth and scratch
free with fine sandpaper.
j. With a Dremel tool or X-Acto knife, cut an opening in the front of the cowl large
enough for the engine's prop shaft and drive washer to fit through. Locate this hole
according to the thrust line mark that you made on the cowl at the start of this
k. Cut out the two small air intake openings in the front of the cowl. Refer to the
Fuselage Front View plan for the exact size and location.
l. A piece of 1/2"x1/2"x6" basswood is provided for making six equal 1" long Cowl
Mount Blocks. After cutting them to length, epoxy the blocks in place on the front of
the firewall, letting them stick out past the edge of the nose planking slightly. Mount
the engine on the firewall. Slip the cowl over the engine and up to the Cowl Mount
Blocks. Now you should be able to see where the blocks need to be taken down in
order to fit properly inside the cowl. Use a sanding block to bevel and reshape the
blocks as necessary until the cowl will slide back over the blocks and onto the
m. Tape the cowl in correct alignment on the fuselage. Drill pilot holes for the Cowl Mount Screws (#4 sheet metal type,
furnished) through the cowl and into the Cowl Mount Blocks at the same time. Take the cowl off and open up the holes in it
large enough to pass the mounting screws. Then put the cowl back on and thread the mounting screws into the blocks.
n. Trim out the molded plastic Air Cleaner Cover to fit on the chin of the cowl. Leave a small flange around the edges for gluing.
Hold the Cover in position on the cowl and draw around the outside of it with a pencil. Cut out the cowl plastic about 1/8"
inside of the lines, so that cooling air will be able to flow through the Air Cleaner Cover and into the engine compartment.
After this is done, glue the Cover in place and then cut open the front of it (within the framed area) with an X-Acto knife. This
opening can be left wide open, or if you want a more scale appearance you can glue in a piece of plastic window screen
(wait until after all painting is done).
o. Trim out the Right and Left Dummy Engine Cylinder moldings along the lines
shown in the photo. Leave a small flange, about 1/16" to 1/8" wide, along the back
of the part where it will match the curvature of the cowl. The best procedure for
trimming is to rough out the part with a heavy-duty scissors or shears, and' then
finish the edges with a sanding block or Dremel tool. Next, carefully position the
Right and Left Cylinders on the cowl using the plans and photos as a guide. Mark
their location on the cowl with a pencil. Then carefully bond the cylinder moldings in
place with dope thinner, MEK, or cyanoacrylate adhesive. Again, avoid getting
adhesive on your fingers and making finger prints on the plastic.
p. Trim out the Right and Left Top Shrouds
according to the trim lines molded into
them. The trim lines are not very
prominent. Holding the parts up to a light
will make the lines more visible. You can
trial fit the Top Shrouds onto the Cylinders
at this time in order to fine-tune the fit of
the trimmed edges, but it is best if they
are not glued on permanently until after
the Cylinders and Cowl are completely
painted. The Top Shrouds can be painted
after they are in place.
q. Make any small openings or other provisions where necessary to allow access to the needle valve and for hooking up the
glow plug.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
Page 13 of 37
Engine Cooling Notes
The most important factor in cooling a fully cowled model engine is to keep a
constant stream of fresh, cool air moving through the cowling. Large volumes
of air aren't necessary, just a steady flow of new air.
This is accomplished by having more exit area for the air than incoming area.
Inadequate exit space can cause heated air to be trapped in the cowl, and this
is what causes overheating and engine failure.
Consequently, on our prototype models, we provided for additional exit space
1. opening up the bottom of the cowl at the rear, and
2. cutting away the cowl plastic that is inside the dummy engine cylinders
and then opening up the back of the cylinders themselves.
As an extra precaution, we also installed a baffle (made of sheet balsa) in the
bottom of the cowl. It directs all of the air that comes in through the Air
Cleaner Cover upward towards the engine cylinder before it can exit out the
bottom opening in the cowl.
Soldering Hint
When soldering a flat metal washer
onto a wire part, it is very helpful to
first slip a short piece of Sig HeatProof Silicone Fuel Line Tubing onto
the wire and push it up tight against
the washer to hold it in correct position
for soldering (the following photo is
not actually of the Cub's tailwheel
assembly but does show a typical
example of the method we're
describing). The heat-proof tubing will
not melt from the heat of soldering,
and it will also keep excess solder
from getting on the wrong side of the
washer. After the solder cools, cut the
fuel tubing off of the wire.
With the setup described here, we have never experienced any overheating
problems with glow engines from .60 to .90 cu. in. You may need to use a little
ingenuity with some similar tricks to insure that your engine installation runs
Main Landing Gear
Assembly of the main gear requires the completed fuselage.
Place the 3/16" Main Gear wire and the 3/16" Rear Brace wire into the grooved L.G. Blocks in the bottom of the fuselage.
Note on the plan that the Main Gear wire should be perpendicular to the bottom of the fuselage while the Rear Brace wire
should be angled forward to meet it near the axle. You will have to trim the groove in the rear L.G. Block slightly to allow
the Rear Brace wire to swing forward.
Using the soft copper wire supplied, bind the ends of the two 3/16" wires together near the axle, along with the 1/8" dia.
Bottom Shock Strut wire that goes between them. Use tape, clamps, or whatever you can come up with to help hold the
three wires in alignment while you wrap them. If the wires don't line up exactly right with each other, rebend as necessary
to get them to fit properly. Make the copper wire wrappings as tight as you can, with each strand of copper wire right next
to the previous one. There should be no gaps between the strands of copper wire. Don't worry about running out of copper
wire, as we have included extra to help insure that you can make these bindings very strong.
When you have the wires bound together in proper alignment, solder them
securely with normal rosin core solder. It is not necessary to have them brased
or welded - just be sure to use a soldering iron or torch with enough heat output
to get the wires and bindings hot enough for the solder to flow smoothly. Also,
use plenty of soldering paste to help the solder flow completely around and thru
the bindings. Protect the fuselage during the soldering operation with a cloth so
that dripping solder or paste will not fall on the wood. After both axles are
soldered and cooled off, carefully remove the wires from the grooved blocks.
Next bind and solder the 1/8" dia. Top Shock Strut wire in place at the top of the 3/16" Main Gear wire. Position this wire
carefully before soldering - note in the front view on plan plate 4 that the middle bend of this Top Shock Strut wire should
contact the middle bend of the Bottom Shock Strut wire so that they can later be bound together by rubber bands for flying.
The rubber bands will serve as an effective shock absorber.
After all the solder joints are cool, file and sand them to smooth out any prominent bulges in the bindings. Clean all joints
with dope thinner or other suitable solvent.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
Page 14 of 37
Cut a 1" long piece of wire, about 1/16"
dia. or so, from left-over scrap pieces
you undoubtedly have in your workshop.
Form it into a shallow "V". Bind and
solder it into the bottom of the Top
Shock Strut. This serves as a hook for
wrapping the rubber bands around both
shock strut wires to as a shock
absorber. (You can see this scrap wire
hook in the pictures under "Bungee
Cover Simulations".
Bungee Cover Simulations
Factory fresh J-3 Cubs had "leather boots" covering the bungee shock chords
of the landing gear. Some recently restored J-3's have gone to airfoil shaped
fiberglass or metal covers. You can easily simulate either type on your model.
Leather Boots: Cut two pieces of scrap balsa to
approximately 3/4"x1"x2·1/2". Cut a groove halfway
into each and epoxy them in place on the Bottom
Shock Strut wire. Fill the groove with putty or epoxy
glue. Carve and sand the balsa blocks to resemble
the leather boots. Smear a thin coat of epoxy glue
on the blocks. Sand smooth when dry. Finish as you do the rest of the landing
A single sheet of 3/16" x 6" x 7" balsa is
provided for fairing in the sides of the
Main Gear. Cut out a right and a left
fairing to fit between the 3/16" wires.
Note proper grain direction on the plan.
Epoxy the fairings in place and allow to
For maximum strength, we recommend that you completely cover the balsa
fairings with regular weight fiberglass cloth and slow-drying epoxy glue (applying
it like you did on the inside of the cowl). Lap the cloth past the edges of the wood,
completely around the 3/16" wires, and onto the back side of the fairings. Sand
smooth when dry.
Set the completed landing gear in place on the fuselage. The wires are to be held
in the grooved blocks with the four Nylon Landing Gear Straps provided. Notice
in the next photo that the straps should be installed all the way to the ends of the
grooved blocks, right up against the wire where it exits the block. This is done to
insure that the landing gear cannot shift sideways in a rough landing.
Airfoil Covers: (See drawing on plan plate 4) Four
molded plastic Bungee Cover halves are provided.
Trim each out leaving a small flange around the
outside. Notch the ends to fit over the L.G. wire.
Groove 1/4"x 1/2"x2·1/2" balsa sticks and epoxy
onto the wire. Shape the balsa pieces as needed to
slip the Cover halves over them. When right. epoxy the Covers together and to
the balsa and wire at the same time.
To install the straps, first mark the hole locations.on the grooved blocks. Then use a 1/16" drill bit to drill a pilot hole in the
blocks. Next screw the straps in place using the #4 x 1/2" Sheet Metal Screws provided.
Stabilizer And Elevators
Carefully cut all of the stabilizer "S" parts and the elevator "E" parts from the 3/8" printed balsa sheet #9. A jig saw
works best for cutting these out. Cut just outside the lines, leaving all of the line on the parts. When fitting into place in
the structure, use a sanding block to bring the edges of the parts to an exact fit.
Cover the plan with waxed paper or plastic wrap. Pin all of the parts to the plan, gluing them to each other in the
following order:
Pin down the 3/8" x 1/2" balsa stabilizer trailing edge.
Add the 3/8" x 1/2" balsa elevator leading edges and the 3/8" sq. spruce elevator joiner. Be careful not to glue these parts
to the stab trailing edge while gluing them to each other.
Fit in Sl-A and Sl-B.
Add printed parts S2, S3, S4, S5, S6, S7 and S8.
Fit in E1, E6, and the 3/8" basswood elevator horn insert.
Add printed parts E2, E3, E4, E5, E7, E8, E9 and E10.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
Page 15 of 37
Cut to length and glue in all 1/4" x 3/8" balsa ribs.
Add 1/8" x 1/4" balsa braces where called for on the plan.
When dry, unpin from the plan. Carve and sand all the outside edges round - remember the tail surfaces on the full-size
Cub are constructed out of steel tubing, thus the leading and trailing edges are all perfectly round.
Install the hinges where shown on the plan.
NOTE: Many modelers feel that the tail surfaces are easiest to cover before they are hinged. If you elect to do this, first
test assemble the tail surfaces on their hinges without glue, to insure that a good edge and end match has been obtained
in the sanding operation. Then refer to "Covering and Painting the Framework", section 19, and prepare all the tail
surfaces (except the fin) through the point of covering and applying at least 2 coats of clear dope. After that, epoxy in the
hinges permanently.
Fin And Rudder
The fin and rudder are assembled over the plan in the same manner as the stab and elevators were.
Pin the 3/8"x 1/2" balsa Fin Trailing Edge and Rudder Leading Edge to the plan. Do not glue to each other.
Add R1 and R2 printed pieces.
Shape and install the 3/8"x5/8" balsa Fin Leading Edge and Rudder Trailing Edge.
Add R3 and R4 printed pieces.
Shape and install the 3/8"x5/8" balsa Rudder Bottom.
Cut to length and glue in all 1/4"x3/8" balsa ribs.
Add RG-1, RG-2, and the 1/8"x1/4" balsa brace.
When dry, unpin from the plan and sand the outside edges round.
Inlet the bottom of the Rudder to accept the rudder horn. Epoxy the horn in place. Reinforce the installation with glass cloth
and epoxy glue.
Install the hinges where shown on the plan.
Dana Anderson warms up the Continential in his beautifully restored Piper J-3 Cub before departing Sig Airfield after a tour
of our plant. Dana is a crop duster from Nebraska who likes to fly the J-3 just for fun. He's also an avid model builder.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
Page 16 of 37
NOTE: The basic structure of the Cub wing consists of three separately built components - a flat Center-Section, a Right
Wing Panel, and a Left Wing Panel. The Left Wing Panel will be permanently joined to the Center-Section, but the Right
Wing Panel will remain removable for ease of transport. Follow the instruction sequence carefully and you'll find that this 2piece wing design is simple and easy to construct.
10. Center-Section
Cut the full-size Center-Section drawing out of plan plate 4. Pin it to the building board and cover with wax paper.
Carefully remove the four R1 ribs from the die-cut balsa sheets. Pin them into a stack and true up the edges with a sanding
block. Also run the sanding block along the trailing edges of the ribs to make them all the same length. Check the original
rib length against the plan. CAUTION: Do not try to sand the entire stack perfectly flush - just sand enough to take off any
prominent high spots or burrs. Excessive sanding may make the spar notches in the ribs too small.
While the R1 ribs are still stacked together, use a small sanding "file" to clean up the hole in the ribs where the 1/4"x3/4"x8"
Ply Rear Tongue must slide through. Strive for a nice tight fit - not sloppy! When done unpin the stack.
Remove the 1/16" ply ribs R2 and W1A from their die-cut sheet. Hold them together and lightly run the sanding block
around the edges to remove any splinters. Set W1A aside until needed in the Right Wing Panel construction.
Glue one of the R1 balsa ribs onto the left side of ply rib R2. Position it carefully to allow for the 3/32" balsa top and bottom
sheeting which will be added later. When dry, alter the Rear Tongue cutout in R2 if necessary to match that in R1.
Cut 3/32"x4" sheet balsa to cover the bottom of the Center-Section. Pin in place on the plan being careful not to let the
edges of the sheeting extend past the side lines of the drawing. Don't forget to cut the window opening.
Cut to length a 1/4"x3/8" balsa stick and glue it onto the front edge of the bottom sheeting.
All of the spars in the Center-Section are 1/4" square balsa. Cut them to length and glue onto the sheeting using the R1 ribs
for spacing them out.
Glue and pin all four R1 ribs and the WS-1 balsa pieces in place. Use a small 90 deg. triangle to assure that the ribs are
glued on straight. When dry, sand the tops of the WS-1 pieces down flush with the tops of the ribs.
Add the 1/4" square balsa top spars.
Slide the 1/4"x3/4"x8" Rear Tongue through the R1 ribs and epoxy in place.
Epoxy the 1/4"x7/8"x15-3/4" ply Front Dihedral Brace in place at the front of the ribs. Make sure the brace is centered
spanwise so that it will extend an equal distance into both wing panels.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
Page 17 of 37
When dry, unpin the center-section
assembly from the plan so that you can
see the locations for the ply P3 and the
balsa WS-2 pieces. Glue these pieces in
place. When dry, sand them down flush
with the tops of the ribs.
m. Cut to length another 1/4"x3/8" balsa
stick and glue it onto the top of the Front
Dihedral Brace. Carve the excess down
flush with the tops of the ribs.
Fill in between the R1 ribs, where the wing bolts will go through, with 5/15"x1-1/8" Tapered T.E. Stock. Carve or sand down
flush with the tops of the ribs.
Trial fit the 3/32" die-cut ply CenterSection T.E. Top sheet in place. If you
find that there is a gap between it and
the bottom T.E. Sheeting, sand down the
ends of the ribs and the fill-in stock
further until it does fit properly. When
satisfied, glue it in place.
Cover the top of the Center-Section with
3/32"x4" sheet balsa.
Locate under the 3/32" balsa bottom sheeting the chamber between the WS-2 pieces. Cut out the bottom sheeting over the
chamber. Also cut out a portion of the adjoining R1 balsa rib in the window area. This opening is to allow access to the 6-32
bolt that will be used to hold the Right Wing Panel and Center-Section together.
Do not block sand the Center-Section yet!
11. Right Wing Panel
Cut the Right Wing Panel drawing out of plan plate 3. Pin it to the building board and cover with wax paper.
Carefully remove all of the wing ribs that are required for this wing panel from the die-cut balsa sheets. Pin them together
into one stack and block sand, just as you did for the Center-Section ribs. Put scrap 1/4" square sticks in the spar notches
to help hold the stack in alignment while sanding. Don't forget to run the sanding block along the trailing edges, as shown
here, to make them all the same length.
Laminate one of the W1 balsa ribs to the right side of ply rib W1A. Position W1 carefully to allow for the 3/32" balsa top and
bottom sheeting. Add the ply pieces P-1 and P-2 at the location shown on the plans. When dry, trial fit the W1 rib assembly
over the Rear Tongue and Dihedral Brace that are sticking out of the right side of the Center-Section - trim the openings in
the rib carefully as necessary for a perfect fit.
While holding the W1 rib assembly up tight against the Center-Section, drill a 5/32" diameter hole through the center of P2
and on into the Center-Section, going completely through P3 also. Epoxy a 6-32 blind nut into P2. Set the Center-Section
and W1 ribs aside temporarily.
Sig J-3 Cub SIGRC48 Build Manual
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Cut two 1/4" Spruce Bottom Spars to length and set in place on the plan.
Cut the 1/4" square Balsa Bottom Spar and Spar Doubler to length. Glue the spar doubler to the spar and pin the assembly
to the plan.
Cut to length and pin to the plan the 1/4" square balsa Cross-Support that goes between the two W5 ribs.
Pin and glue all the W2, W3, W4, and W5 ribs in place on the spars. Use a triangle to insure that the ribs are perpendicular
to the board.
Note: Do not glue on the W1 rib yet!
Let all joints dry thoroughly, then unpin the assembly from the board and set it aside while you do the next step.
Trim to length and pin in place on the
plan the following pieces:
3/32"x1-1/2" Balsa Bottom T.E. Sheeting
3/32"x1-1/2" Balsa Bottom Aileron
3/32"x3" Balsa Bottom L.E. Sheeting
3/32"x3" Balsa Bottom Sheeting
between ribs W1 and W2.
Glue and pin the rib/spar assembly back in place on top of the bottom sheeting pieces. Be certain of getting the positioning
correct. You'll need to shim under the front edge of the 3/32"x3" Balsa L.E. Sheeting to make it follow the contours of the
Slide the W1/W1A rib back onto the Center-Section. Now place the Center-Section against the end of the wing panel by
inserting the tip of the Front Dihedral Brace into the opening in the rib W2 and setting the W1/W1A rib onto the bottom spars
and sheeting. Note that the center-section should not set flat against the building board - the difference between the
openings in the W1 and W2 ribs automatically sets the proper dihedral angle. Once satisfied with the fit, glue the bottom of
the W1/W1A rib onto the bottom spars and sheeting. Leave the Center-Section in position while the glue dries so that it
holds the W1 rib at the proper angle.
With the Center-Section still in place, add the 1/4" square Spruce Top Spars. Glue all joints securely.
Glue in the 1/16" Spar Webbing where indicated on the plan. A single piece of 1/16"x4-1/8"x36" balsa is provided for
making all the spar webs for both wing panels. Note that the webs should be installed with the grain running vertically.
Note: Once steps j, k, and l are dry, unpin the Center-Section and try sliding it out and then back into the wing panel a
couple of times to insure that there is no binding up to this point. Leave the wing panel pinned to the board.
m. One piece of 1/4" square x 9" spruce and two P4 die-cut ply pieces are provided for building a box between ribs W1 and W2
for the Front Dihedral Brace to slide into. First cut the stick into two lengths that fit snugly between the ribs, one on top and
one on the bottom of the Dihedral Brace. Then with the Brace in position, tack glue the sticks to the ribs. Be careful not to
get any excess glue on the dihedral brace or it may become permanently stuck.
Sand the ends of the ply P4 pieces down until they fit perfectly between the wing ribs and up tight against the front and rear
of the Dihedral Brace. When satisfied with the fit, glue them to the spruce sticks and to the ribs. Hold tightly until dry.
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Take apart and then reassemble the wing panel and center-section a few times to
check the fit. A tight, but not binding fit is needed.
If it seems too tight, take some very
fine sandpaper and sand the entire
Dihedral Brace slightly to smooth out
any rough spots. Rounding all of the
corners of the Brace will also make it
easier to slide it into the box.
If the fit of your wing panel and centersection is sloppy and loose, find out
where the problem is and fix it before
Once satisfied with the fit, double glue the box structure securely to the W1 and W2 ribs.
Glue in place the small die-cut balsa riblets W3A, W4A and W4B, and the ply riblet W5A. Be careful about their exact
locations. Extend a line off of the die-cut slits in ribs W4 and W5 to use for alignment.
Cut to length and glue in place the 5/16"x1-1/8" balsa Tapered T.E. Stock Fill-In between the last two full length W4 ribs at
the wing tip. Take down the top surface with a small sanding block until it's flush with the tops of the ribs.
Glue on the 3/32"x1-1/2" balsa Top Trailing Edge Sheeting. Epoxy glue is recommended here for two reasons: First, it will
have less tendancy to bow or warp the trailing edge than would a water based glue. Second, it gives you plenty of time to
get the top sheeting pinned down sequrely, absolutely flat on the board, before the glue dries.
Add the 3/32"x1-1/2" balsa Top Aileron Sheeting. Check the location carefully with the aileron cross section drawing.
Glue gusset WG-1 in place against rib W3 and inside the trailing edge sheets.
Cut to length and glue the 1/8"x7/8" Balsa Leading Edge in place along the front of the wing ribs and against the Bottom
L.E. Sheeting. When dry, trim and sand flush with the tops of the ribs.
Glue on the 3/32"x3" Balsa Top Leading Edge Sheeting. Also add the sheeting that goes over rib W1 and W2 (cut from
3/32"x4"x36" stock).
w. When dry, unpin the wing from the plan. Cut to length and glue on all of the 3/32"x1/4" balsa Capstrips for the top and
bottom of the wing. Note on the plan that the capstrips over the W3 and W4 ribs that are located near the ends of the
ailerons are not centered directly over the ribs - they are flush with one side of the rib.
Install the die-cut ply Jury Strut Mounts, JSM-1 and JSM-2, on the bottom of the wing. JSM-1 must be inset flush into the
bottom L.E. Sheeting.
See the wing cross-section on plan plate 3 for a good view of the FSM and RSM pieces in place.
Install the Front Strut Mount pieces in the following sequence:
1. Insert FSM-1 flush with the bottom Leading Edge Sheeting.
2. Add FSM-2, a balsa filler block going between the bottom front Spruce Spar & the 1/4" square balsa Cross-Support.
3. Then glue FSM-3 across the top of FSM-2, the Spruce Spar, and the balsa Cross-Support.
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Install the Rear Strut Mount pieces in the same fashion as you just did the FSM pieces - only this time they got between the
bottom rear Spruce Spar and the Balsa Bottom Spar.
Do not block sand the right wing panel yet!
12. Left Wing Panel
Important Note
Many of the construction steps for building this Left Wing Panel are the same as those used for the Right Wing Panel.
However, since the Left Wing Panel will be permanently attached to the Center-Section, there are a few differences.
The following is an exact listing of the best procedure for building the Left Wing Panel. Whenever the construction required
is the same as for the Right Wing Panel, it has been noted as such. Follow this sequence to the later to avoid problems.
Cut the Left Wing Panel drawing out of
plan plate 3. Pin it to the building board
and cover with wax paper.
Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (a)
Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (d)
Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (e)
Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (f)
Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (g)
Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (h)
Same as Right Wing Panel instruction (i)
Trial fit the balsa W1 rib over the Rear Tongue and Front Dihedral Brace that are sticking out of the left side of the CenterSection. The edges of the W1 rib must line up exactly with the edges of the R1 rib of the Center-Section. Trim the openings
in the W1 rib carefully as required for a perfect fit. Then glue the W1 rib to the R1 rib.
Slide the Center-Section in position against the end of the wing panel by inserting the tip of the Front Dihedral Brace into
the opening in rib W2 and setting the W1 rib onto the panel's bottom spas and sheeting. Check the fit carefully! When
satisfied that the Center-Section will mate up smoothly to the wing panel, glue the bottom of the W1 rib onto the bottom
spars and sheeting. Also glue the end of the Dihedral Brace into rib W2.
Cut to length and glue in the 1/4" square Spruce Top Spars. Glue all the joints securely.
Glue in the 1/16" Spar Webbing where indicated on the plan. The webs should be installed with the grain running vertically.
A single piece of 3/16"x4-7/16"x1-1/2" balsa is provided for the Spar Web that goes between the Front Dihedral Brace and
the Spruce Spars in rib bay W1-W2
Finish the construction of the Left Wing Panel by completing Right Wing Panel instructions (p) through (z).
Do not block sand the Left Wing Panel yet!
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13. Wing Tips
Glue die-cut balsa parts T-4, T-5, T-6
and W6 in place on the die-cut ply
wingtip plate WTP.
Study the Wingtip Alignment Drawing carefully in preparation for gluing the Tip Plate onto the end of the wing panel.
Proper positioning of it against the W4 end rib is important for correct assembly of the rest of the wingtip parts in
subsequent steps. First trial fit the Tip Plate assembly in place, noting that the tops of T-4 and T-5 should line up with the
top of W4, not with the top of the capstrip. Also note that the front edge of WTP should be flush with the front of the 1/8"
balsa Leading Edge. Use a straight edge to draw guidelines on the end rib to help line up the Tip Plate. Then glue it on.
Glue die-cut balsa parts T-l and T-2 in place. Note that they should line up with
the top and bottom edges of W4, leaving room for the 3/32" balsa top and bottom
sheeting to be added later. Since W4 was stack sanded with the rest of the fulllength wing ribs, and T-1 and T-2 were not, it may be necessary to alter the
curved sides of T-1 and T-2 to exactly the same curvature as W4, before gluing
them on.
Glue on part T-3.
1/16"x3/4"x24" balsa strips are provided for laminating around the edges of the tip. Thanks to the large radius of the curve,
it should not be necessary to soak the strips in water before laminating - thus Jet, Hot Stuff, or other cyanacrylate
adhesives can be used. Carefully bend and glue the first strip to WTP. Add the other strips, one at a time, firmly gluing
them to each other without gaps.
You'll notice that the strips are way oversize to allow for final shaping later.
When the laminated edge is dry, sand
flush with the front of the wing panel
and glue on the 3/8" x 1" balsa Leading
Edge Cap.
Cut a small gusset, from scrap balsa, to
go in the corner of the wingtip near the
trailing edge. Glue on the top side of
WTP only.
Sheet the top and bottom of the Tip
Leading Edge with 3/32" balsa.
Capstrip the top and bottom of rib W6.
Carve and sand the wing Leading Edge Cap and the tip laminated edge to shape.
Study the photos and drawings carefully for guidance. Do not sand the rest of the
wing, especially the top and bottom sheeting or capstrips, at this time - it's best to
wait until the center section is done!
14. Block Sanding The Wing
Carefully block sand the entire wing until all joints are smooth and even. Use as
large a sanding block as possible to avoid sanding down any one area too much.
Carve and sand the trailing edges round.
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15. Cutting Out The Ailerons
Locate the 1/4" sq. balsa Bottom Spar under the Top and Bottom Aileron Sheeting. Draw guidelines on both sheets about
1/32" behind the spar. Use a straight edge and a sharp knife to cut through the Aileron Sheeting along the guidelines. Make
sure you are not cutting into the spar.
Take an X-Acto razor saw and pry the crimped metal backing off of the blade with a screwdriver. Insert the saw blade into
the slits just cut in the Aileron Sheeting and saw through each of the ribs of the aileron.
Saw through the trailing edge and carefully remove the aileron.
Trim and sand the back of the wing cutout until all ribs and planking are flush with the back of the balsa spar.
Trim the front of the aileron in line with the angled die-cut slits in the ribs. Use a sanding block to straighten the front and
ends of the aileron.
Glue 1/4"x1-1/2" balsa into the wing cutout and to the front of the aileron. Trim and sand these pieces to wing contour.
With a razor saw, cut the base off one of the long nylon control horns that are supplied. Drill some random glue anchor
holes in the top area of the horn.
Inlet the bottom leading edge of the aileron to allow the nylon horn to be slid in place alongside the plywood riblet W5A.
Refer to the aileron cross-section drawing to see how far in the horn should be installed. Hold the horn in position and drill a
small pilot hole (for a #2x3/8" sheet metal screw) through one of the glue anchor holes and into the ply rib. Screw and epoxy
the horn securely in place.
Fill in behind the horn, on the bottom of the aileron, with 3/32" sheet balsa. Sand flush. This will give you somewhere to
attach the covering material. If you wish to cover the ailerons before hinging, do it now.
Cut slots in the aileron leading edge and the wing cutout to accept the nylon hinges. Use 4 hinges per aileronl Check the fit
and movement of the aileron by dry fitting it into the wing first without any glue on the hinges. If there is any mismatch or
binding, alter the slots as necessary to correct. Then epoxy the hinges in. Repeat these steps to complete the other aileron.
16. Mating The Wing To The Fuselage
Epoxy the 3/8"x1-1/2"x5-3/8" basswood Wing Bolt Block in place. Brace it to the lite-ply Cabin Bulkhead with 1" triangular
balsa. Let dry.
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Set the wing on the fuselage, sliding it forward as far as possible. Mark and drill a 5/32"x5/16" hole in the wing's Front
Dihedral Brace for the Cabin Wires to go through. The wing should then slide all the way forward with the trailing edge
dropping down in front of the T.E Crosspiece. If necessary, adjust the hole slightly with a rat-tail file to eliminate any binding
that keeps the wing from setting flat on the cabin.
Tape or pin the wing in correct alignment
with the fuselage measure from the
wingtip to the back end of the fuselage.
Determine the correct spots on the top of
the wing to drill through and hit the Wing
Bolt Block in the desired locations for the
nylon bolts. Drill through the wing and
Wing Bolt Block at the same time with a
No.7 drill. Take the wing off and tap the
Block with a 1/4-20 tap. Enlarge the
holes in the wing to 1/4" diameter to
pass the nylon bolts.
Mark the locations for the 1/4" Dowels
that go in former F5 (see cross-section
F5). With the wing in place on the
fuselage, drill 1/4" diameter holes
completely through both F5 and the
wing's Front Dihedral Brace at the same
time. Remove the wing and epoxy the
dowels in place in F5. Wipe any excess
glue from the wing side of F5.
1-3/4"x2-1/4"x2-1/2" balsa blocks are supplied for making the Cabin Blocks. Study the Front, Top, and Side views of the
Cabin Blocks on the fuselage plans. Trim the blocks supplied roughly to match these three viewpoints. Leave them slightly
oversize. Then glue them in place on the front of former F5. Sand and trim to match the contour of the wing.
17. Wing Struts
Assembly of the wing struts requires the completed wing and fuselage.
Locate the two 1/16"x1/2"x2" aluminum strips supplied for the Fuse Strut Fittings. Round all four corners of the strips with a
file or grinder, and drill three holes through each with a #33 drill bit (see plan for exact locations). Draw a line across the
middle of each strip. clamp it in a vise up to the line, and bend it to the angle shown.
Mount the finished Fuse Strut Fittings in place on the bottom of the fuselage with 4-40x3/8" mounting bolts and blind nuts.
Epoxy the blind nuts on the inside of the fuselage.
Two pieces of 1/16"x1" (tapered) x2" aluminum are supplied for making the Lower Strut Fittings. On each piece, round the
corners of the narrow end and drill a #33 hole in the location shown on the plan. Also drill several random glue anchor holes
along the sides where the spruce struts will be glued on.
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Taper the fuselage end of each 1/4"x5/8" Spruce Front Strut so it will fit onto the
aluminum Lower Fitting along with the 1/4"x1/2" Spruce Rear Strut.
Then epoxy one Front and one Rear Strut onto each of the Lower Strut Fittings.
Make two identical assemblies. Work directly over the Wing Strut plan to insure
that the angle between the spruce struts will be correct.
(NOTE: At this point, there is no "right" or "left" difference between the two wing
strut assemblies, as is called for on the plan.)
Four pieces of 1/16"x1/2"x2-1/4" aluminum are provided for making the Upper Strut Fittings. Drill, shape, and bend these
pieces as shown on the plan to make two #1 and two #2 Upper Strut Fittings. (The difference between the finished right
and left wing strut assemblies will be in these Upper Strut Fittings. That's why they are called #1 and #2 on the plan notice that the slant of their bend lines go in opposite directions.)
Bolt the wing in place on the fuselage. Fasten the wing strut assemblies in position, one on each side of the fuse, by
bolting the Lower Strut Fittings to the Fuse Strut Fittings. Make sure you have the shorter front strut of each assembly
facing the front of the airplane. Trial fit, without glue, the finished Upper Strut Fittings into the notches in the spruce Struts
as follows:
RIGHT WING STRUT ASSEMBLY - A #2 Upper Strut Fitting goes in the Front Spruce Strut
A #1 Upper Strut Fitting goes in the Rear Spruce Strut
LEFT WING STRUT ASSEMBLY - A #1 Upper Strut Fitting goes in the Front Spruce Strut
A #2 Upper Strut Fitting goes in the Rear Spruce Strut
Check that the Upper Fittings mate smoothly to their ply mounting inserts that are built into the wing. If they don't, double
check to see that you've got the correct Upper Fitting in the correct strut. You may also have to readjust the bend angles of
the Upper Fittings and/or Fuse Fittings slightly to get a good fit. When satisfied, take the struts off the model and epoxy the
Upper Fittings into their proper notches.
When dry, bolt the strut assemblies back on the model. Hold the Upper Fittings
up against the bottom of the wing and mark the locations for the 4-40 mounting
bolts onto the ply mounting insert FSM and RSM. Take the struts back off. Drill
holes through the ply inserts and epoxy 4-40 blind nuts in from the inside.
Carve and sand the edges of the struts round. See cross-section on strut plan.
Reinforce the ends of the spruce struts with a layer of fiberglass cloth and epoxy glue. Also cover the areas in the center of
each strut where the jury struts will go. When dry, sand smooth.
Mark on the spruce struts the locations for the 4-40 flat-head bolts that hold the bottoms of the brass jury struts. Drill a #33
hole through the spruce struts at these locations, countersink the holes so that the heads of the bolts will be flush with the
spruce, and then thread the bolts in place.
With a pencil, mark a center-line down the middle of each JSM-1 and JSM-2 plywood insert that are built into the bottoms
of the wing. Reassemble the wing, fuselage, and spruce strut assemblies in preparation for the next step.
Four pieces of 3/16" o.d.x6-1/2" long brass tubing are provided for making the Front and Rear Jury Struts. There are
patterns and instructions on the plan to use as a guide for bending them to shape. A regular hand pliers works best for
flattening and bending the ends of the tubing. Try to bend them exactly along the lines drawn.
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Use the 4-40 hex nuts provided to fasten the bottom ends of the finished Front
and Rear Jury Struts to the bolts in the spruce struts. Swing the top ends of the
Jury Struts into position to line up with the center-lines drawn on the JSM pieces.
Be careful not to bow the spruce struts out of shape - just move the top ends of
the jury struts fore and aft along the pencil lines until you find the spots where
they fit perfectly. Then mark and drill holes through the JSM pieces at these
spots and install 4-40 bolts and blind nuts. Epoxy the blind nuts in place.
Remove the hex nuts that are holding the bottom of the brass jury struts in place.
Two 4-1/2" long pieces of brass tubing are provided for making the bottom
crosspieces of the jury struts. Due to small differences between models, it's
impossible to give you a useable pattern for these pieces. You'll have to tailor
them to fit on your own model. Simply cut the tubing to length, flatten the ends as
far as needed to clear the spruce, and drill a #33 hole in each end to slip over the
mounting bolts.
Make a final assembly of all the strut pieces to the model. Epoxy the flat head bolts into the spruce struts; epoxy together
the lower ends of the brass pieces where they overlap each other; and epoxy on the 4-40 hex nuts that hold them all
together. Let dry before taking off the model.
18. Attaching The Tail Surfaces
If you've precovered the stabilizer, remove the covering material from the bottom center area where it will contact the
With the wings mounted to the fuselage, pin the hinged stab/elevator assembly in
place. Note that the fuse will need to be trimmed slightly under the elevator joiner
to permit adequate movement of the elevators. Carefully align the stab with the
wings from the top and front views. Mark the location of the fuse on the top and
bottom of the stab center section. Remove the stab and apply epoxy glue. Slow
drying epoxy (not 5-minute) is recommended to allow adequate time to get the
stab in exact alignment before the glue hardens. Pin the stab back in place using
the markings to get it in approximate alignment. Before the glue hardens,
recheck the alignment carefully by measurement and shift the stab position
slightly if necessary.
Epoxy the hinged fin/rudder assembly in place, installing the bottom hinge into the rear of the fuselage at the same time.
Align carefully.
Glue the die-cut 1/8" balsa Tail Fairings in place. They should be flush with the fuselage sides at the stab leading edge
and touching the fin at the back.
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19. Radio Installation
It's best to mount all your radio equipment and pushrods before covering and
painting, while you still have easy access inside the model. Once the initial
installation has been made and all the bugs are worked out, you can take the
radio system back out while the painting is being done.
In spite of some of the things you may have heard or read, putting a radio in your
1/4-scale Cub need not be much different than for a smaller model. This section
describes the control system installations that have worked best in our prototype
Cubs and that we recommend. Except for the use of some "heavy-duty" parts,
you'll find that the installation is pretty straight forward. As with any size model,
the QUALITY of the installation more than anything else will determine how well it
flys the model.
Always double check all control hookups! Locate the source of any
binding, rubbing, or sticking and eliminate it.
No radio gear or servo mounting materials are supplied in this kit. Any other parts
called for in the following instructions that we do not furnish are marked with an
Elevator And Rudder Hookup
The elevator and rudder are each actuated by one "heavy-duty" servo. Almost every radio manufacturer produces heavyduty servos specifically designed to handle the increased control surface weights and air loads of 1/4-scale models.
Standard size servos (35 oz./in. torque or less) are not recommended for the elevator or rudder of the Cub. If in doubt
about the ability of the servos you have to handle the job, consult the manufacturer of the radio gear.
The most convenient method of installing servos in the fuselage is on the plastic mounts (*) that are offered by most radio
manufacturer for their equipment. These are screwed to hardwood mounting rails (*) that are epoxied across the inside of
the cabin area. Mount your servos anywhere between formers F5 and F6. Further instructions on the use of servo trays
are usually included with them.
A long nylon control horn is supplied for the elevator. Install it on the bottom of the left elevator with #2 x 3/4" sheet metal
screws. Once installed, cut off the excess ends of the screws flush with the top of the nylon retainer plate.
Pushrod Assembly
Materials are supplied for building fiberglass pushrods to link the elevator and rudder servos to their control horns. Make
the control surface ends of the pushrods first. Put a 90° bend in the unthreaded end of the 4-40 x 8" threaded rod. Drill a
3/32" diameter hole 2" from the end of the fiberglass pushrod tube. Slide the 4-40 rod into the tube, sticking the 90° bend
through the hole.
Sand a flat spot on one side of the 3/16"x2-1/2" dowel until it can be squeezed into the tube alongside the 4-40 rod. When
you get the fit right, final assemble the parts into the tubes with epoxy glue. It should not be necessary to put any bends in
the 4-40 wires of either the elevator or rudder pushrod to get them to feed through the fuselage and hook up to the control
horns. It's a pretty straight shot if your servos are positioned side by side as shown in a previous photo. However you may
have to trim out a portion of the diagonal 5/16" sq. main frame balsa under the stab to clear the elevator pushrod wire.
Assemble the servo ends of both pushrods in the same fashion, only use 1/16" dia. x 8" music wire and solder links
instead of the 4-40 size hardware. After you've got the 1/16" wires and dowels epoxied into the tubes, feed the pushrods
back into the fuselage and hook up to the control surfaces. Center the 4-40 links on the threads at the tail end. Then
measure and cut off the 1/16" wires at the front, to the length which will allow the solder links to reach the servo arms.
Protect the servos with a rag while soldering the links onto the ends of the wires.
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Your elevator and rudder pushrods should now be complete and operating freely. Fill in around the 4-40 pushrod wires
where they exit the fuselage with scrap sheet balsa, glued in flush with the stringers.
Brace the pushrods in the middle (near former F9) with 1/4" sq. scrap balsa to eliminate any possibility of in-flight vibration
or bowing problems. Criss-cross pieces of 1/4" sq. stick on all four sides of each push rod. Glue them to the 5/16" sq. main
frame balsa. Have the braces touching the pushrods, but not creating a bind.
Throttle Hookup
Either a standard or heavy-duty servo can be used for the throttle control on a .60
to .90 glow engine. A flexible steel cable pushrod with nylon outer tubing (*, such
as SIGSH559) is best for hookup of the throttle servo to the carburetor. Follow the
assembly instructions on the pushrod package.
Battery Pack
Due to the larger than normal battery drain from using heavy-duty servos, a 1000
mah receiver battery pack (*) is recommended. Wrap the battery pack in foam
rubber (*, such as SIGRF240) held on with rubber bands or masking tape, to
protect it from engine vibration. Secure it as far forward as possible in the nose
under the fuel tank.
The receiver should also be wrapped in foam rubber and stowed as far forward as possible. Make certain that it is
somehow fastened in place so it will not move around during flight. A 36" long piece of large (3/16" o.d. approx.) nylon
tubing is provided for making an internal antenna mount. Glue the tube in a bottom corner of the fuselage, from the cabin
area back to the tail, and slide the antenna wire into it.
The receiver on/off switch may be mounted wherever it is convenient. Some servo trays have a slot along the front for
holding the switch. Then run a short length of music wire (*) from the switch to the outside of the model.
Aileron Hookup
You can choose between two completely different methods for hooking up the
aileron in the cub.
Method 1: Use two separate servos, one for each aileron, mounted out in
the wing panels between the W5 ribs and linked to the receiver via long
extension cords and a "Y" harness.
Method 2: Use one heavy-duty servo mounted in the center-section of the
wing operating both ailerons at the same time via 90 deg. bellcranks and
long pushrods.
While we have used both methods in our prototype models with good results, we
recommend the two-servo method first because it is simpler and easier to install
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If you elect to try this method in your Cub write to Sig for more detailed instructions on making the installation.
Method 1- 2 Servos
The full-size wing plan shows this type of installation and all the necessary structural parts for it are included in this kit. In
addition to a fifth servo(*), you'll need to purchase two long extension chords(*) and a "Y" harness(*) to link the aileron
servos to the radio receiver in the fuselage. All radio manufacturers have these items available as stock equipment or will
make them on order. It is best to keep the extension chords as short as possible - 18" should be long enough when the "Y"
harness length is added to it. Excessively long chords have been known to cause radio interference under certain
conditions. Consult the manufacturer of your particular radio about the need and availability of "chokes" in the extension
chords to eliminate possible interference.
Double check to see if the holes that are in the wing ribs are large enough to allow the plugs on your extension cords to
pass freely through. If not, enlarge the holes until they will. By the way, it's not necessary to permanently install the
extension cords in the wing panels as you may have thought. It is quite easy to feed the cords through even after the wing
has been covered and painted. Simply feed a long piece of music wire(*) or dowel(*) through the holes first, then tape the
end of the aileron cord to the wire and pull the wire back through.
Dry fit the two die-cut 3/32" ply Servo Mounts and your aileron servos into position between the W5 ribs in each wing panel.
Bend the 4-40x8" threaded rods to the shape shown in the wing cross-section drawing on the plan. Screw the 4-40 links
halfway into the threaded ends of the rods and snap the links into the nylon aileron control horns. Pin the ailerons in neutral
position and get the pushrods and servos into alignment with the horns. Determine the exact angle of installation needed
for the ply Mounts and whether the top of the servos will clear the 3/32" ply Hatches when they are installed later. Then
epoxy the ply Servo Mounts to the W5 ribs.
When dry, realign the servos and pushrods to the aileron horns. Mount the servos onto the ply mounts using a side-mount
type servo tray(*). Because of the large diameter of the 4-40 rods, it's pretty impractical to link them directly into the servo
output arms. So cut off the rods near the arms and bend two small "Z" shaped spur wires out of scrap 1/16"dia. music wire
(*). Bind the spur wires onto the cutoff ends of the 4-40 rods with soft copper wire(*) and solder the bindings securely.
Cut to length and epoxy in place the 1/4"x3/8" spruce Hatch supports. Use the 3/32" ply Hatch to guage the proper depth
for gluing in the two Supports that go along the sides of the WS ribs. The Hatch should be flush with the capstrips when it's
screwed down onto those side Supports. #2x3/8" sheet metal screws are provided for holding the Hatch in place.
Cut to shape and glue in place 3/32" sheet balsa fairings for around the aileron pushrod exits.
Method 2- 1 Servo with Bellcranks
(*no materials are supplied for this option)
One heavy-duty servo, such as recommended for the elevator and rudder, can safely operate both ailerons at the same
time from the center of the wing through the use of 90° aileron bellcranks and long pushrods. The difficulty with this method
is in making it operate smooth without any bending. However, it can be done if you are very careful with installation.
Mount the 90 deg. bellcranks between
the W5 ribs on the same 3/32" plywood
that is supplied in this kit for the Servo
Mounts in Method 1. Use the 4-40
threaded rods and links in the kit to
connect the bellcranks to the aileron
horns. Mount the servo in the window
opening of the Center_Section and use
a 1/16" diameter wire plastic-sleeved
pushrod(*) to connect it to the
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20. Tips On Tanks
A 16 oz. rectangular plastic clunk tank is recommended for use with most all .60 to .90 cu. in. glow engines. Refer to the
engine manufacturer's instructions for any special notes they may have on fuel tank or pump/pressure requirements for
your particular engine.
The simplest, most trouble free, tank set-up to use with a fully cowled in engine is normal suction feed, without any pump or
crankcase pressure. If you can run your engine on suction, assemble the fuel tank hardware as shown in the photo. There
are 3 tubes installed through the rubber stopper - 1 for fuel feed, and 2 for vents. Both vent tubes should curve upwards
inside the tank. The clunk line on the fuel feed tube must swing freely without hitting the back of the tank. (If your tank, as
supplied, does not come with silicone tubing for the internal fuel feed line, substitute a piece of Sig Heat-Proof Silicone
Tubing, SIGSH290 Large. With it installed, the tank can be left in the fuselage indefinitely since this line will not harden or
deteriorate when immersed in raw fuel.)
With an inverted engine installation, the tank will be correctly located for proper fuel draw and idle characteristics if it is
mounted onto the bottom of the ply Nose Joiner. Simply glue four J-Bolts (SIGSH123, not supplied) into the bottom of the
NoseJoiner, and use rubber bands hooked between them to hold the tank in place, as shown.
Drill holes through the firewall large enough to pass the fuel lines through. Once the tank is installed permanently, after
painting the model, seal the holes in the firewall against leakage of the exhaust oil into the fuselage with silicone rubber
sealer. Run fuel tubing from both vents downward and out the bottom of the cowl at the back. Connect the fuel feed line to
the carburetor. To refuel, simply pump fuel into either of the vent lines until it runs out the other. Then plug one of the vents
with a short 4-40 bolt to keep the fuel from siphoning out. It's not necessary to remove the feed line from the carb to refuel.
21. Covering And Painting The Framework
The completed Cub framework can be covered with Sig Koverall, Sig Silk or an iron-on type of covering material (either
plastic or fabric). Whatever type of covering you desire to use, it will not conceal a rough framework. Be sure all surfaces
are smooth before proceeding!
The manufacturer's directions for applying iron-on coverings are packed with the material. Follow these closely, for different
types of material have different iron temperatures and techniques of application.
The rest of these instructions describe the use of Sig Koverall, which is a polyester based synthetic fabric ideally suited to
quarter-scale models due to its low cost, workability, and toughness. Silk is applied in the same way, but it costs much
more per yard. Koverall is highly recommended for the Cub - all of our prototype models were covered with it.
Brush an unthinned coat of clear Sig Supercoat or Sig Lite-Coat Dope over all parts of the framework that will contact the
covering. When dry, resand with fine sandpaper to remove any fuzz or raised grain. Brush on a second coat and sand
The bottom of the wing is a good place to start covering. Cut a piece of Koverall about 1/2" larger all around than half of the
wing, with the grain running lengthwise. (The grain of woven materials run parallel to the finished bias edge.) Dip the piece
of covering in water, let the excess water run off, and then lay it on the wing. Go around the edges, pulling out the wrinkles
and stretching the material smooth. Brush clear dope around the edges. This will soak through the fabric and adhere it to
the dope already dried into the framework. Let dry before trimming off the excess material with a sharp razor blade. Check
for any rough areas or places that are not stuck down properly and apply more dope.
Use the same process to cover the top of the wing, the fuselage, and the tail surfaces. Be sure to read "Hints on Covering
the Fin Fillet".
After all covering is done, allow the water to dry out of the fabric and wood. If the Koverall is slack or baggy in any places,
use a hot air gun or hair dryer to shrink it tight (read Koverall package instructions).
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Next give the entire model a coat of LiteCoat clear dope. Thin the dope until it
brushes on easily and flows out
smoothly. Brush the dope on sparingly
over the open framework areas. If too
much is applied, the excess dope may
rub off the brush, run completely through
the covering and puddle against the
covering surface on the other side.
When these puddles dry, the large
amounts of dope solids in them cause
more shrinkage than in the rest of the
covering and a scarred area results. So
apply dope very lightly the first time
over. The second coat will seal most of
the pores of the Koverall, and from that
point running through will not be a
serious problem.
You can put anywhere from 3 to 5 total
coats of clear dope on the Koverall
before going to color. It depends
somewhat upon how heavy a coat you
are putting on. Keep the dope thinned
out enough to flow on smoothly. Sand
well between the later coats of dope with
220 grit Tri-MIte paper. Don't bear down
on the edges of the balsa structure or
the fabric may be cut. Use your own
judgement about when you've put on
enough coats. The goal is a completely
smooth and even base for the color
paint. Keep in mind that weight can build
up fast in finishing and restraint must be
used in application. Don't try to
completely fill the grain of the fabric like
you would on a smaller model. The
weave will not be very noticeable as
long as the edges are smooth - it may
even look more realistic. Sanding sealer
or primer is not necessary or advisable.
Best results can usually be obtained by
spraying on the color finish coats. It is
also much faster than brushing would be
on this large a model. Reduce the dope
for spraying fifty-fifty with Sig Supercoat
Thinner. Two coats of your base color
should give good coverage if the surface
preparation was sufficient. If any light
sanding between base color coats is
needed, use 360 Tri-M-Ite or 400 or finer
wet paper.
Hints On Covering The Fin Fillet
On the full-size Piper Cubs, the
fuselage and fin are covered with
one continuous piece of fabric. It
bridges from the top stringers of the
fuselage sides up to the fin bottom
rib, producing a beautiful fillet.
The construction of this model Cub
duplicates this feature. Your
covering material should bridge from
the sheet balsa Tail Fairings up to
the fin bottom rib. This may at first appear to be a difficult job to do, but it's
much easier than you'd think.
If you're using a dope-on type covering, proceed as follows:
1. Cut a piece of material that will cover the entire left side of the fin and
left side of the fuselage top (all the way forward to the wing T. E.
2. Dope the edges of the covering down along the fuse 3/16" x 3/8" Top
Stringer, the 1/4" sq. Corner Stringer, and the T.E. Crosspiece. Pull out
any large wrinkles or sags in the fabric.
3. Straighten out the rear end of the covering and adhere the bottom of it
to the Tail Fairing. Work the material smooth and dope it down to R4
and the fin bottom rib. Use plenty of pins to hold securely until dry.
4. Apply three extra coats of clear dope along the fabric stuck to the fin
bottom rib. Let dry between coats.
5. Finish sticking down the remainder of the covering piece ot the top of
the fin.
6. Now repeat the steps to cover the right side of the fin and the fuselage
top in the same manner.
When dry, resume following the rest
of the written instructions for dopedon coverings. Be careful when
applying the pre-color clear dope
coats over the entire model that you
don't soften the bond of the fabric to
the bottom rib and let it pop loose.
It's best not to put any dope of the
fin bottom rib while painting the
surrounding fin and fillet areas.
If you're using an iron-on type of covering, apply it basically the same as
described above with one exception. Lap and adhere the fillet covering piece
over onto the top side of the fin bottom rib and cut it off there. Then, after
shrinking the fillet area tight, cover the top part of the fin with a separate piece.
Overlap it slightly onto the fillet covering. If you try to do the job in one piece,
the heat of shrinking the entire area will always pop the covering loose from
the fin rib.
When the base color has dried, mask off the edges of the color trim areas with "drafting tape" (3M Scotch brand is
available at most office and art supply stores). Completely cover with paper and tape all areas that should remain base
color. Brush or spray the edges of the tape with clear dope. This seals the tape, preventing leakage of the trim color
underneath the tape. Spray on two coats of trim paint. When dry, carefully remove the tape.
Complete the job by spraying a coat of Lite-Coat clear dope over the entire color scheme to protect the colors from
scuffing and to give the entire model a uniform gloss.
For best results, it is not a good idea to try to mix different brands of paint. Use SIG products from the start.
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22. Sanding And Painting The Plastic Parts
CAUTION: Do not try to cover any of the plastic parts with Monokote, Coverite, or other iron-on types of covering material.
The heat can damage the plastic parts.
The cowling, dummy engine, and bungee covers are molded out of ABS plastic. We recommend that they be painted with
Sig Supercoat Dope for best results. Hobbypoxy, K & B Superpoxy, and Dulux Enamel have also been proven compatible
with the ABS plastic and can be used if desired. Do not use other paints, dopes, or finishes without first testing on scrap
plastic to make certain that they are compatible.
In preparation for painting, the plastic parts should be sanded to remove as much
of the surface gloss on them as possible. Do not use coarse sandpaper which will
cut deeply into the plastic. Deep scratches will often open up wider during
painting. Use 220 grit or finer 3M Tri-M-Ite Fre-Cut Finishing Paper or its
Color paint can be put directly on the sanded plastic. Primer type coats are not
necessary if a thorough sanding job was done with fine paper. Brush or spray the
color paint onto the plastic parts. Do not apply heavy, wet coats which can cause
an "orange peel" effect. Put on light coats and allow them to dry before applying a
second coat.
The "stand way off scale" detailing of the dummy engines on our
prototype models was done by painting with 3 basic colors:
Silver for the cylinder heads.
Black for the top shrouds, the cylinder fins, and for any recessed or
shadowy areas.
for the exhaust pipes and the cylinders. This isn't a standard
color, you'll have to mix your own by slowly adding black paint
to silver until you get the shade you want. It shouldn't be too
light colored, but must provide adaquate contrast with the black
painted area.
The silver painted areas should be glossy when dry. The black and
steel areas should be flat, non-glossy.
23. Painting The Landing Gear And Wing Struts
We recommend that the completed landing gear and wing struts should be
painted with epoxy type paint (such as Hobbypoxy or K & B Superpoxy) because
of the large areas of metal to be covered. Dopes do not stick well to metal, but
epoxy paint does and it's use here is not recommended.
Start by brushing or spraying a coat of epoxy primer on the entire part. When dry
sand smooth. Make repeat applications of primer, sanding thoroughly when dry,
until the surface of the wood and fiberglassed areas are smooth.
Then spray on two coats of color epoxy paint, letting it dry between coats. For
best results, follow the paint manufacturer's instructions closely.
24. Self-Adhesive Decals
Cut out the decal you wish to apply with a sharp scissors, modeling knife, or single-edge razor blade. Trim close to the
image, leaving about 1/32" to 1/16" of clear edge around the decal. Smaller designs (2 - 3 sq. in. or less) can be put on the
model by "dry application", whereas larger decals go on easier using the "wet application" instructions.
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Instructions for Dry Application
Peel the paper backing sheet completely off the decal, being careful not to let the
sticky side double over and adhere to itself. Hold the decal in position just above
the surface of the model while you double check to make certain it is exactly
where you want it. Don't let the decal contact the surface of the model until you
are sure of its location! Once it is stuck down, it can't be moved! Start the actual
application by pressing just one edge of the decal into contact with the surface of
the model, and then carefully work towards the opposite edge, slowly rubbing the
remainder of the decal in place. Be careful not to trap air under the decal. If air is
trapped under the surface, puncture the air bubble with a pin and press down.
Instructions for Wet Application
Here's a little trick that allows application of self-adhesive decals to a model without the danger of trapping air bubbles.
Start by wetting the surface of the model where the decal will be placed with a generous quantity of soapy water solution (a
little dish soap in water, or a commercial cleaner like Sig Blue Magic Model Airplane Cleaner, "409", or "Fantastic" brand
cleaners will all work equally well). Peel the paper backing sheet completely off the decal, being careful not to let the sticky
side double over and adhere to itself. Place the decal onto the wet surface of the model. The soapy water will keep the
decal from actually sticking to the model until you have had time to shift it around into exact alignment. Once you have it in
exact position, use a small paddle of scrap sheet balsa to squeegee the excess soapy water out from under the decal.
Squeegee repeatedly to get as much of the soapy water out from under the decal as possible. Allow to dry overnight. When
completely dry, wash off the soap smears with a clean wet rag.
NOTE: These decals are completely fuel proof and cannot be harmed by any common model -airplane glow fuel containing
less than 20% nitromethane. Higher quantities of nitromethane may cause slight deterioration of the decal over extended
periods of time.
WARNING: Do not try to paint over these decals. Model cement, butyrate dope, lacquer, epoxy, and enamel paints may
dissolve the decals. If you wish to top coat your decals, be sure to test for compatibility on a scrap decal before applying
the paint. Frankly, Sig Mfg. Co. does not recommend top coating and will assume no liability for problems you may
25. Attaching The Tail Brace Wires
Four 2-56x10" threaded rods are provided for the Brace Wires. Cut two of them off at 8-3/4" long for the bottom brace
wires. Leave the other two at 10" long for the top brace wires.
Four standard RC links (2-56 thread inside) and four solder links (unthreaded) are provided for the ends of the Tail Brace
Wires. Take each link and cut off the side that has the pin in it. (A Dremel tool with an abrasive cut-off wheel works best.)
Enlarge the hole in the remaining half with a #44 drill bit.
Screw one threaded link and jam nut onto the threaded end of each rod. Solder one of the unthreaded links to the other
end of each.
Drill #44 holes through the stab and fin trailing edges at the brace wire attachment points drawn on the plans.
Fit the wires to the model. Bend the ends of the links as needed to make them fit flat against the model surface. Use 256x1/2" bolts and hex nuts to fasten the links through the stab and fin. Use #2x3/8" sheet metal screws to hold the bottom
of the lower brace wires to the plywood tailwheel mount.
Adjust the threaded links and jam nuts until the wires are snug, but not pulling the tail surfaces out of shape.
Paint the tail brace wires after installation with epoxy paint.
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26. Installing The Windshield And Side Windows
Cut the windshield from the 1-1/12"x17" clear plastic sheet, using the pattern on
the plan. Cyanoacrylate adhesives (Hot Stuff, Jet, etc.) work best for gluing the
windshield in place on the fuselage. This is a tedious and sometimes frustrating
job - but a little patience and thought will usually be rewarded with a good fitting
First pin the windshield in place as well as possible for a trial fit. Readjust where
necessary. Then go around the edges and tack glue in several places. It's best to
start gluing near the middle of the nose top and at the top of F5. Then work out
towards the sides and the Windshield Braces. Don't try to bend the plastic around
the Braces, just glue it to the front edge. When satisfied with the fit, glue all the
edges permanently. When dry, trim off the excess plastic along the Windshield
Two 5-1/2"x17" pieces of clear plastic are provided for the side windows. One piece is to cover all the window area on one
side of the airplane with no seams. Lay the plastic sheets on the fuselage and mark them about 1/8" larger than the outline
of the windows. Cut out and glue on the outside surface of the model.
27. Preflight
Balance your model at the point indicated on the plan. If it balances further back, add weight to the nose as necessary.
Trying to fly with the C.G. too far back is much more dangerous than the slight increase in wing loading caused by adding
lead to the nose. Balance with an empty fuel tank.
Why Models Must Be Individually Balanced
It is impossible to produce a kit that will automatically have the correct balance point. Balsa wood varies in weight and it is
easily possible for the wood in the tail of a model this large to be 2 or more ounces lighter or heavier than average. One
ounce of extra weight in the tail has to be countered by about 3 ounces in the nose. Don't use a lot of finish or excess glue
on the tail surfaces. The motor you choose, what form of muffler is fitted, the size and placement of your radio equipment,
etc. all affect the balance. Don't feel that whatever C.G. the model builds out to as "good enough". Check carefully and
make whatever adjustments that are required.
With the C.G. properly located, the Cub
should fly with only minor trim changes
Be certain to carefully range check your
radio equipment and see how it
operates with the engine running before
attempting test flights. A lot of problems
can be avoided if the engine has been
well broken in and the idle adjustment
perfected on a test block or in another
airplane before installation in the new
A properly balanced and aligned model
with a reliable engine and radio is
assured of successful flights.
28. Flying
The Cub is not difficult to manage on the ground or in the air. However, being 1/4-scale and a taildragger, there are some
differences you should be aware of between flying the Cub and flying most trainer or pattern type models. It handles more
like a full size airplane than most smaller models.
When taxiing the Cub on the ground be prepared to use the elevators and ailerons in addition to the obvious rudder
steering and throttle inputs. When the winds are calm, hold full up elevator while taxiing in any direction, to keep the
tailwheel in firm contact with the ground for effective steering. Leave the ailerons in neutral, steer with the rudder, and
control ground speed with the throttle.
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Under windy conditions, also hold up elevator when taxiing either upwind or crosswind. When going downwind, put the
elevators in neutral or partly down to keep the wind from getting under the tail and flipping the Cub on its nose. Aileron
deflection may also be needed while taxiing crosswind to keep the upwind wing from lifting off the ground.
Line the Cub up in the middle of the runway for takeoff. If you haven't had much
taildragger time, it's best to stand directly behind the model so you can easily see
any changes in heading that will need to be corrected during the takeoff run. Leave
the elevator in neutral. Advance the throttle smoothly to full open. As the tail lifts up
on its own, the Cub will try to drift to the left from torque. Feed in right rudder as
needed to keep the model going straight. When you have flying speed, pull back
slightly on elevator stick for a gentle liftoff.
During the takeoff run, try not to overcontrol the rudder (the most common rookie tailwheel pilot's mistake) which will start the
Cub swerving from one side of the runway to the other. If you find yourself in that situation, pull the throttle back to full low and
get the model stopped. Taxi it back for a fresh start. Never try to hurry the model off the ground by pulling full up elevator just
because the model isn't going straight! The damage from a premature snap roll on takeoff would be much more severe than
anything that could happen on the ground. Actually the Cub is one of the easiest taildraggers to takeoff that you'll find.
Just keep practicing your takeoff run without lifting off until you learn to use the throttle, elevators, and rudder together.
In the air you'll find the Cub smooth, stable, and responsive. With practice it is capable
of doing most basic aerobatic manuevers such as inside loops, rolls, spins, and
snaps. After you've had a chance to get the model all trimmed out, practice making
your turns by coordinating rudder commands in with the ailerons, as is done in a full
size airplane. Proper coordination of the rudder with the ailerons will make for a more
graceful turn.
Landing the Cub directly into the wind or under calm conditions is pretty much like landing any other scale model. Be careful
not to let the nose get too high during banks with the power off. Either wheel landings or three-point landings can be made with
the Cub. Just remember to fly the model even after it touches down (or you'll ground loop so fast it will make your head spin).
Once the tailwheel gets back on the ground you'll have good steering and the model will slow down fast.
If there is any amount of crosswind, even quartering, landing the Cub (or any other taildragger) becomes a little trickier. Proper
coordination of the ailerons and rudder is again needed to maintain your heading. After the model is turned onto final approach,
use the rudder to hold the model on a straight heading with the runway and feed in aileron to correct any drifting to the side.
For example, with a crosswind from the left, you'll need to hold a little right rudder to correct any "crab" angle (the model will be
trying to weathervane into the crosswind) and put in left aileron to keep the model from drifting to the right.
If all these hints make it sound as if the Cub is difficult to fly, it really isn't! In many ways flying quarter-scale is easier than flying
a faster, smaller model. The Cub can be safely flown by anyone who is capable of handling a multi-channel model. Once you
get a few flights under your belt, you'll find rudder/aileron coordinated flying becoming second nature - and you'll be a better
pilot with all types of models.
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If you have any technical questions or comments about this kit, or any other SIG product, please call us.
Weekdays, 7:00am - 4.30pm Central
© Copyright SIG Manufacturing Co .,Inc. 1982
SIG MANUFACTURING CO., INC............Montezuma, Iowa 50171-0520
In use of our products, Sig Manufacturing Co.'s only obligation shall be to replace such quantity of the product proven to be
defective. User shall determine the suitability of the product for his or her intended use and shall assume all risk and liability
in connection therewith.