Bernina BERNINA 1001 Instruction manual

"Welcome to
the BERNINA
family"
In choosing BERNINA, you are assured of years of rewarding sewing. For over 100 years
my family has concentrated on providing complete satisfaction to our customers. And it is my
personal wish to continue this tradition of offering you Swiss precision engineering combined with
state of the art technology and an after sales service second to none.
The new BERNINA activa 220, 230 and 240 are characterized by a youthful appeal which is
combined with a range of added value features to give you, dear Customer, more sewing pleasure
than ever before. Enjoy modern, creative sewing with BERNINA: our wide range of accessories as
well as our sewing publications brimming with imaginative ideas and practical tips all add to
the joy of sewing BERNINA style.
Any questions you have will be dealt with courteously and efficiently by our highly trained
BERNINA dealers, who will also be glad to service your sewing computer for you.
H.P. Ueltschi
Owner BERNINA
Sewing Machine Company
www.bernina.com
BERNINA International AG • CH-8266 Steckborn/Switzerland
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
2
Safety instructions
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical machine, basic safety precautions should
always be followed, including the following.
WARNING
Read all instructions before using this sewing computer.
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock or injury
to persons:
When the sewing computer is not in use, it should be
disconnected from the electricity supply by removing the plug
from the outlet.
DANGER
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy.
Close attention is necessary when the sewing computer is
used by or near children and infirm persons.
2. Use this sewing computer only for its intended use as
described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended
by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
To reduce the risk of electric shock:
1. A sewing computer should never be left unattended when
plugged in.
2. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electric outlet
immediately after using and before cleaning.
3. Always unplug before replacing light bulb. Replace the bulb
with the same type rated 12 volts/5 watts.
3. Never operate this sewing computer if
• it has a damaged cord or plug
• it is not working properly
• it has been dropped or damaged
• it has fallen into water
Return the sewing computer to the nearest authorized
BERNINA dealer or service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the computer with any air openings blocked.
Keep ventilation openings of the sewing computer and foot
control free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Safety instructions
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is
required around the sewing needle.
6. Always use the BERNINA original needle plate. The wrong plate
can cause the needle to break.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the
needle causing it to break.
9. Turn power switch to «0» when making any adjustments
in the needle area, such as threading or changing the needle,
threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot.
10. Always unplug the sewing computer from the electrical outlet
when removing covers, lubricating or when making any other
user servicing adjustments mentioned in this instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
12. Do not use outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or
where oxygen is being administered.
14. Before disconnecting, turn all controls to the off («0») position
then remove the plug from the outlet.
3
16. No responsibility will be taken for any possible damage as the
result of misuse of the sewing computer.
17. This sewing computer is provided with double insulation.
Use only identical replacement parts. See instructions for
Servicing of double-insulated machines. (Except USA and
Canada.)
SERVICING DOUBLEINSULATED PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of insulation are provided instead of grounding. No grounding means is provided on a
double-insulated product nor should a means for grounding be
added to the product. Servicing a double-insulated product requires extreme care and knowledge of the system and should only be
done by qualified service personnel. Replacement parts for a
double-insulated product must be identical to those parts in the
product. A double insulated product is marked with the words
«DOUBLE INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».
The symbol
may also be marked on the product.
This sewing computer is intended for household use only.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord but grasp the plug.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS!
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4
Details
Details of the sewing computer
36
11
14
9
22
15
13
8
23
16
27
17
18
19
20
21
24
12
7
25
26
6
35
5
3
2
4
1
28
Front view
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Details
11
36
10
1
2
3
14
4
5
6
34
27
7
8
9
10
11
12
29
30
33
32
Right end
5
13
14
31
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
Bobbin cover
Stitch plate
Attachment base for
special accessories
Sewing table socket
Presser foot
Needle clamp with
fixation screw
Thread guide
Thread take up cover
Thread path
Thread tension
adjustment
Bobbin pre-tension
Reverse button /quick and
continuous
Screen
Bobbin winder with
on/off switch and thread
cutter
Stitch width button
Needle position button
Stitch length button
Needle stop up/down
1/2 speed
Pattern end
Mirror image
mem (memory) button
Alphabet buttons
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24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
Stitch selection buttons
#-button
clr/del-button
Handwheel
FHS connection
Balance adjustment knob
Power switch on/off
Power plug socket
Drop feed-dog
Foot control socket
Spool pin (vertical,
collapsible)
35 Needle Threader
36 Holder for stitchcards
6
Details
45
44
42
38
39
3
41
2
4
Back view
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Details
37 Carrying handle
38 Presser foot lifter
(manual)
39 Thread cutter
40 Thread take up
41 Darning ring connection
42 Accessory box connection
43 Thread tension disc
44 Rear thread guide
45 Horizontal spool pin
46 Accessory box catch
47 Lens holder
37
44
40
38
39
47
46
45
43
Left end
Sewing computer with Accessory box
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7
8
Setting up the sewing computer
Accessories
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
foot control
instruction manual
power cable
sewing table (only 230/240)
warranty card
Accessory box
presser foot lifter* (FHS)
(**220/230)
fabric case for standard
accessories (only 220)
Standard accessories*:
4 bobbins (+ 1 in the capsule
in the sewing computer)
Selection of 130/705H needles
Seam ripper
Screwdriver
Angle key Torx
Lint brush
Seam guide
Compensating plate
3 spool discs
Foam pad
Oiler
Compensation plate for sewing
buttonholes
Start-stop-unit**
B
A
* can vary from country to country;
Fabric cover
protects from dust and dirt
• compartment for accessories
see presser foot selection p. 36
•
** available as a special accessory
Lens Set **
We recommend the use of the
BERNINA Lens Set for more
comfort when sewing.
Caution!
To avoid injury always attach
the protective cover of the
magnifying glass holder
when the magnifying glass is
not in use.
With the Start-stop-unit (SSU)
the start-stop-function can be
controlled by hand.
• press start-stop-button A =
stitching starts
• with the speed regulator B
the sewing speed can be
regulated by hand
• to interrupt or stop sewing =
press start-stop-button A
again
Note:
If the foot control is connected with the sewing computer, the Start-stop-unit is out
functions.
CFL (** 220/230)
Contrary to an ordinary bulb,
the CFL sewing light has a better
illumination and a longer life.
Please refer to the safety
instructions!
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Caution:
Please note that a defective
CFL sewing light must ONLY
be replaced by an authorized
technician. The sewing computer must be brought to an
authorized BERNINA dealer!
Setting up the sewing computer
9
Accessory box (only 230 and 240)
E
A
G
H
F
D
B
C
Free standing accessory box
• pull both feet out until they click into
place
• stand box in chosen position
•
•
•
Storing accessories
Standard accessories are supplied in a
plastic bag.
The box is equipped with one small and
one large drawer (B and C) as well as compartments for bobbin holders D and presser
feet E. (Additional compartments and
drawers are available as optional extras).
•
•
push the bobbins into the compartments
provided
to remove a bobbin, press the compartment holder F lightly
insert the presser feet into the slot E
the snap-on soles can be stored in the big
drawer C (activa 220)
the needle selection box can be stored in
compartment G
Attaching the accessory box to the
sewing computer
• close the doors
• push feet back into position
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•
attach the box to the sewing computer
(catch A must engage); inserting
the presser foot lifter into the opening H
Note: first lower the presser foot lifter!
Removing the accessory box
• press catch A on the top of the box
• remove box to the rear
available as a special accessory for
activa 220
10
Setting up the sewing computer
Power cable
Power switch
The power cable
plug A into sewing computer
• plug B into wall socket
Foot control cable
• plug C into sewing computer
•
C
A
Important! (USA/Canada only)
This sewing computer has a
polarized plug (one blade
B wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock,
this plug is intended to fit in a
polarized outlet only one way.
If the plug does not fit fully in
the outlet, reverse the plug.
If it still does not fit, contact a
qualified electrican to install
the proper outlet. Do not
modify the plug in any way.
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The switch is on the handwheel
side of the computer
1 the computer is switched on
0 the computer is switched off
The sewing light is switched on
and off with the power switch.
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Setting up the sewing computer
11
Foot control
The foot control regulates the
sewing speed
Sewing speed is adjusted by
applying more or less pressure
to the foot control.
Important! (USA/Canada only)
Use only foot controller type
SR-1 with sewing computers
activa 220/ 230/ 240.
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Self storing cord
• wind the cord on the reel
• insert the plug into the groove provided
When sewing
• unwind the cable
12
Setting up the sewing computer
Sewing table*
Increases the sewing surface.
To attach
• raise the needle and presser
foot
• place the table over the free
arm and press firmly so that it
engages on the fixing cam
To remove
• raise the needle and presser
foot
• pull the table out of the
fixing cam
• pull in horizontal position to
the left
Scale
• «0» corresponds to the centre
needle position
Seam guide
• insert into the groove (underside of table) from the right or
left
• it can be freely adjusted over
the whole width of the table
Note: Remove the presser
foot or the presser foot shaft
(activa 220) when attaching
the seam guide!
* Special accessory for 220
Free-Hand-System (FHS) presser foot lifter* (knee-operated)
Attaching the presser foot
lifter
Insert into the opening in the
base plate: you should be able
to operate the lifter with your
knee in your normal sitting
position.
The presser foot lifter raises
and lowers the presser foot
• push to the right
• the presser foot is raised
• the feed-dog is lowered
simultaneously
• the feed-dog is raised as soon
as the first stitch is sewn
Note:
Your dealer can adjust it if
necessary.
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* Special accessory for 220, 230
Setting up the sewing computer
13
Winding the bobbin
Winding the bobbin
• turn power switch on
• place empty bobbin on
spindle
•
•
•
•
•
•
following the direction of the arrow take thread through the rear
guide and round the pre-tension stud
wind the thread two to three times around the empty bobbin and
cut off any excess thread on the thread cutter
press the engaging lever against the bobbin
press the foot control
the motor will stop automatically when the bobbin is full
remove the bobbin
Note:
When winding the bobbin
on the vertical spool holder
(p. 17), it may be necessary to
adjust the speed.
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Thread cutter
• cut the thread on the thread
cutter
14
Setting up the sewing computer
Bobbin case
A
To remove the bobbin case
• raise the needle
• turn power switch to «0»
• open the bobbin cover
• grasp the latch of the bobbin
case
• remove case
To insert the bobbin case
• hold the bobbin case latch
• the finger on the case should
point upwards
• insert so that it clicks into
place
Bobbin thread cutter
insert the bobbin case
• take the thread over cutter A
• thread is cut
• close the bobbin cover
•
Note:
The bobbin thread does not
have to be brought up as
the loose end is just the right
length to start sewing.
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Refer to the safety
instruction!
Setting up the sewing computer
15
Inserting the bobbin
Insert the bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that the
thread runs clockwise.
Pull the thread counter clockwise into the slot.
Pull the thread to the left
under the spring until ...
... it lies in the T-shaped slit at
the end of the spring.
The bobbin must turn clockwise when thread is pulled.
Changing the needle
Removing the needle
raise the needle
• turn power switch to «0»
• lower the presser foot
• loosen the needle clamp screw
• pull the needle down to remove
•
Inserting the needle
• flat side of needle to the back
• insert the needle as far as it will go
• tighten the needle clamp screw
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Refer to the safety
instruction!
16
Setting up the sewing computer
Changing the presser foot (activa 230/240)
Changing the presser foot
• raise the needle and
presser foot
• turn power switch to «0»
Raising the lever
• raise the clamping lever
• remove the presser foot
Attaching the presser foot
• guide the foot upwards
over the cone
• press the clamping lever
down
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Refer to the safety
instruction!
Setting up the sewing computer
Changing the presser foot (activa 220)
3
Changing the presser foot
sole
• raise the needle and the
presser foot shaft
• turn power switch to «0»
• press the button on the shaft
to release the sole
Attaching the presser foot
sole
• place the presser foot sole
under the shaft so that the
peg sits under the opening of
the shaft
Refer to the safety
instruction!
•
lower the presser foot lifter
and the foot sole will click
into position
Supplementary spool pin
Collapsible vertical spool pin
• found on the back of the sewing computer
behind the handwheel
• essential aid for sewing with more than one thread, i.e. double
needle work
• raise the pin until it clicks into its vertical position
• when using large reels, add the foam pad A for stability
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A
17
18
Setting up the sewing computer
Threading the upper thread
C
A
Attaching the thread spool
• raise the needle and presser foot
• turn the power switch to «0» (off)
• attach the foam pad
• place spool on pin (spool turns clockwise)
• attach the appropriate spool disc - diameter of spool disc is
disc size. There must be no clearance between the disc and
the spool
• take thread through rear guide A
• then into slit of upper thread tension
Down
• pull thread down to the right of the take-up
cover to B
D
E
Down
• take thread down and through guides D and E
Up
• take thread up to the left of the cover to C in the direction
of the arrow, placing it in the take-up level
Refer to the safety
instruction!
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B
Needle Threader
Needle Threader
A
B
Thread in hook
· raise the needle
· lower the presser foot
· lay the thread behind
hook B and hold lightly
Lever down
· press lever A down and
simultaneously guide the
thread around hook B to
the right to the needle
Thread in front of needle
· put the thread from the
front into the guide until
it catches in the hook
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Release the lever and
thread
· let go of lever A and
thread
19
20
Setting up the sewing computer
Bringing up the lower thread
•
•
•
•
•
hold the upper thread
sew one stitch
pull the upper thread until the bobbin thread appears
in the stitch plate hole
pull bobbin thread out of the hole and insert both
threads through the slit in the presser foot towards the back
pull threads over the cutter
Thread cutter
Thread cutter on head frame
• pull both threads from front to back over the
cutter
• the threads release as soon as the first stitch is
sewn
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Note:
The bobbin thread must be
brought up through the stitch
plate for certain types of
work. The length of thread
is sufficient for most normal
work if the lower thread
cutter has been used.
Setting up the sewing computer
21
Stitch plate*
Note: To change the stitch plate see page 65
Stitch plate markings
• the stitch plates are marked with seam guide lines in mm or
inches
• the millimetre markings are at the front
• the inch markings are at the back
• the measurements show the distance (with needle position centre) from needle to line
• lines are provided to the right and left of the needle
• they are very useful guide lines for precise seaming
• the horizontal lines are useful for sewing corners, etc.
*can vary from country to country
Feed-dog
Button below the handwheel
Button flush with housing =
sewing position
Button depressed = feed-dog is lowered
• for free-hand sewing (darning, embroidery, etc.)
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22
Setting up the sewing computer
Thread tension
3
A
5
The basic setting
• is indicated when the red line on the tension
adjustment wheel is in line with the marking A
• the tension does not need adjusting for normal
sewing work
• for special sewing work, the tension can be
adjusted to suit the fabric
The tension is factory set for the best results.
Metrosene 100/2 (Arova Mettler, Switzerland)
is used to set both the upper and lower thread
tension.
If other sewing or embroidery threads are used,
the tension may need adjusting to suit the fabric
and chosen stitch.
For example:
Perfect stitch formation
• the stitch formation is in the fabric
Upper thread tension too tight
• the lower thread is pulled more to the right
side of the fabric
• to reduce the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 3–1
Tension
Needle
Metallic thread
approx. 3
90
Monofilament
approx. 2– 4
80
Upper thread tension too loose
• the upper thread is pulled more to the wrong
side of the fabric
• to increase the upper thread tension turn tension adjustment wheel to 5–10
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Operating instructions
General instructions
Main switch to 1
• the sewing computer is ready to sew
0
1
2
3
4
5
5
5.5
1
4
3
3
4
2
1
5
6
0
2
7
The screen shows
1 stitch width, basic setting blinks constantly
2 stitch length, basic setting blinks constantly
3 needle position (9 positions)
4 needle stop up/down (generally up)
5 stitch number 1 (straight stitch)
6 presser foot number 1 indicator (recommended foot
for selected stitch)
7 satin stitch; dense, short zig-zag stitch
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23
24
Operating instructions
Stitch* selection
• stitches 1–10:
touch the number of your choice; stitch number and basic width and
length settings appear
Note: touch «0» to select stitch number 10 (standard buttonhole)
• to select stitches 11–50 (activa 220), 11–70 (activa 230) or 11–99 (activa 240):
touch #-button and the appropriate number
* see p. 32-33 for the complete stitch selection; for activa 230 PE see appendix A1
Stitch width
left button = narrow the stitch width
• right button = widen the stitch width
• the basic settings of the chosen stitch blink constantly
•
Needle position
• left button = needle to the left
• right button = needle to the right
Stitch length
• left button = shorten the stitch length
• right button = increase the stitch length
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Operating instructions
25
Functions
Functions are ...
activated when the symbol appears on the screen.
deactivated when the symbols no longer appear on the screen.
Reverse sewing
quick reverse:
• press button
• Sewing computer sews reverse until button
is released (max. stitch length 3 mm)
Applications:
• programming buttonholes
• programming darning program
• switch to straight stitch securing program
(stitch No. 5)
• manual securing (seam begin and end)
continous reverse:
• press button quickly twice
• the sewing computer sews the chosen stitch
in reverse
• press button once to cancel
1/2 speed
• press the button and the sewing speed will be
halved
• press the button again to revert to full speed
Needle stop
• basic setting needle stop up
• press button
• arrow points down = sewing computer stops
with needle down
• press button again
• arrow points up = sewing computer stops
with needle up
Note:
Press key a bit longer = the needle will go automatically up or down.
Stitch end
• press button
• sewing computer stops at the end of a single
stitch or stitch combination (in Memory)
Mirror image*
• press button
• mirror image of selected stitch will be sewn
*activa 240 only
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26
Operating instructions
#-button
Stitch selection button (see p. 24)
mem (Memory)
• press the centre button to open memory
(capacity of 30)
• use the left and «
»-buttons to scroll and
programme stitches, letters and numbers
clr/del (clear/delete)
• press button = reverts to basic settings
• other selected functions are cleared
Exceptions:
• needle stop down
• 1/2 speed
• altered basic settings for buttonholes =
press «clr/del»-button twice (without
activa 220)
Altered Stitch Memory
• any stitch length or width alterations will be
saved automatically
For example:
•
sew altered stitch, e.g. zig-zag
•
select another stitch, e.g. straight stitch
•
return to zig-zag, your alterations are still
active
Letters, numbers and punctuation marks
(activa 220 only Block alphabet)
• press the alphabet button
• one of the fonts will appear on the screen
• select desired font by touching the alphabet
button
• press the right button to scroll letters and
numbers forwards (A B C ...)
• press the left button to scroll letters and
numbers backwards (@ Ç ? ...)
Return to basic settings
basic settings can be restored manually for
individual stitches
• all altered settings are lost when the
«clr/del»-button is pressed or when the
sewing computer is turned off
•
Application:
• for all stitches and fabrics
• particularly useful for switching between
different applications
Alphabet contents (only Block alphabet)
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ
Ä Ö Ü Å ÆŒØÑÈÉÊÀÂ
01234567890_-.’&? Ç@
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Operating instructions
27
Memory
Any combination of 30 stitches, letters or numbers can be saved
in Memory, which is long term. They remain saved until deleted
by the user. Power failures or disconnection from the electricity
Memory buttons
press left button (<) to scroll
contents backwards
• press centre button (
)
to open and close Memory
• press right button (
)
to scroll contents forwards
and to program the memory
supply do not affect the Memory. Alterations to the stitch length,
width or needle position can be made at any time. Individual
stitches, letters or numbers can be deleted or overwritten.
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
•
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
1
0
Open Memory
• press «
»-button to
open Memory
• if the Memory is empty, the
cursor and number 30 (=
empty memories) blink
• if the Memory is not empty,
the saved stitches, letters or
numbers appear on the
screen; scroll forwards until
the cursor and number of
empty memories blink
4
3
To program stitches see p. 28
mem
2
0
1
2
1
0
3
4
5
5.5
5
Example: saved letter
• saved letter (E) is shown
4
3
2
mem
1
mem
0
Example: saved stitch
• saved stitch (28) is shown
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1
0
To program letters and numbers
see p. 29
28
Operating instructions
Scroll backwards
press left button = the programmed stitch numbers scroll
backwards
Delete complete Memory
• press «clr/del» and «
»button at the same time
• release both buttons
• leave Memory by pressing the
«
»-button
• Memory is now completely
deleted
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
mem
2
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
mem
0
1
0
Programming practical and
decorative stitches
• open Memory (p. 27)
• select stitch (p. 24)
• stitch number appears on the
screen (here 21)
• press «
» to program
(save)
• the number of remaining
empty memories (here 29)
and the cursor blink
1
0
•
select next stitch, press
«
» and continue in
this manner
Scroll forwards
press «
»-button = the
programmed stitch numbers
scroll forwards
Note 220:
The following special programs
cannot be saved in Memory:
No. 5, Securing program
Nos. 10–11, Buttonholes
No. 12, Button sewing-on program
No. 13, Darning program
No. 16, Basting stitch
Note 230:
The following special programs
cannot be saved in Memory:
No. 5, Securing program
Nos. 10–12, Buttonholes
No.13, Button sewing-on
program
No.14, Eyelet
No.15, Darning Program
No.19, Basting stitch
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Begin sewing
• press the foot control = the
sewing computer starts automatically at the beginning of
a stitch sequence
• select Pattern End (
) as
well = the sewing computer
stops automatically at the end
of a stitch sequence
Note 240:
The following special programs
cannot be saved in Memory:
No. 5, Securing program
Nos. 10–14, Buttonholes
No.15, Button sewing-on
program
No.16, Eyelet
No.17, Darning Program
No.21, Basting stitch
Operating instructions
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
4
3
2
mem
0
1
0
Programming letters, numbers
and punctuation marks
• open Memory (p. 27)
• press Alphabet button
• select letter or number (p. 26)
• press «
» to program
(save)
• the number of remaining
empty memories (here 29)
and the cursor blink
• select next letter/number,
press «
» and continue
in this manner
• programme single words or
sentences/numbers
• select (_) to program spacing
Note:
If the stitch length and/or
width of letters or numbers
have been altered, the alterations will affect all of them.
If you only want to alter
single letters or numbers, this
must be done individually.
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
29
Corrections in Memory
Changing individual stitches,
letters and numbers
• scroll with the right or left
button to find the stitch you
want to change or correct
• then correct or change:
stitch
letter
number
stitch length or width
needle position
etc.
• press «
» to save the
change(s)
Delete single stitch, letter or
number
• scroll to find the stitch
• press «clr/del» to delete
• stitch/letter/number is deleted
30
Operating instructions
Leave Memory
• press «
»-button =
contents are saved
• Memory is closed
0
1
2
3
4
5
5.5
5
«
»-symbol disappears from
the screen
4
3
2
1
0
The contents of the memory
remain saved even when the
sewing computer is disconnected from the electricity
supply. They can be recalled
at any time.
The contents of the memory
will be lost if the sewing computer is switched off without
pressing the «
» button
before closing the memory.
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Operating instructions
31
Balance
Your sewing computer has
been tested and factory set
using a double layer of
cretonne fabric and Metrosene
100/2 threads (Arova Mettler,
Switzerland).
Different fabrics, threads and
stabilizers can naturally affect
the stitch balance so that they
are sewn too close together or
not close enough.
Applications:
Practical stitches, e.g.
Honeycomb stitch on jersey,
decorative stitches, fantasy stitches, letters, buttonholes, etc.
This can be remedied with
Balance to suit the fabric and
produce perfect results.
Note:
If the balance has been
adjusted, return it to the
normal setting once sewing
is completed.
Normal position
Denser stitch formation
(shorter stitch length)
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Finer stitch formation
(longer stitch length)
32
Stitches
Stitches*
activa 220 / 230 / 240
Practical and decorative
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
Straight stitch
Zig-zag
Vari-overlock
Running stitch
Securing stitch
Triple straight and zig-zag
Blind stitch
Double overlock
Super stretch stitch
Standard buttonhole
activa 220
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Button sewing-on program
13 Darning program
14 Gathering stitch
15 Stretch overlock
16 Basting stitch
17 Universal stitch
18 Lycra stitch
19 Honeycomb stitch
20–25, 29–50 Decorative stitches
26–28 Quilting stitches
*activa 230 PE see appendix A1
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Stitches
activa 230
activa 240
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Straight stitch buttonhole
13 Button sewing-on program
14 Eyelet
15 Darning program
16 Gathering stitch
17 Stretch overlock
18 Jersey stitch
19 Basting stitch
20 Universal stitch
21 Lycra stitch
22 Honeycomb stitch
23–31, 42–70 Decorative stitches
32–41 Quilting stitches
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Narrow buttonhole
Stretch buttonhole
Keyhole buttonhole
Straight stitch buttonhole
Button sewing-on program
Eyelet
Darning program
Gathering stitch
Stretch overlock
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
33
20 Jersey stitch
21 Basting stitch
22 Honeycomb stitch
23 Universal stitch
24 Sewn-out zig-zag
25 Lycra stitch
26 Stretch stitch
27–38, 49–99 Decorative stitches
39–48 Quilting stitches
34
Stitches
Stitch selection*
1
4
7
2
5
1 Straight stitch
All non-stretch fabrics. All straight stitch work
2 Zig-zag
Most fabric types; all simple zig-zag such as oversewing fine
fabrics. Sewing on elastic and lace
3 Vari-overlock
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch overlock seams and hems
4 Running stitch
Most types of fabric. Mending, patching, reinforcing seams
5 Securing stitch
All types of fabric. Secures the beginning and end of seams sewn
with straight stitch
6 Triple straight and
triple zig-zag
Reinforced seams in tough, heavy fabrics
7 Blind stitch
Most types of fabric; blind hems, shell edging on soft jerseys and
fine fabrics, decorative seams
8 Double overlock
All types of knit; Overlock = sew and neaten in one operation
9 Super stretch
Open seam for all super-stretch fabrics
3
6
8
*activa 230 PE see appendix A
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Stitches
17
10
13
22
11
14
35
17 Darning program
Automatic darning for fine and medium weight fabrics
22 Honeycomb stitch
Most types of interlock and smooth fabrics; visible seams
and hems
40 Quilt/hand stitching
Hand stitched effect: only the one stitch (lower thread) is visible;
the other stitch (upper thread = monofilament) is invisible; increase
upper thread tension to suit the fabric (6–9)
10 Standard buttonhole
Fine to medium weight woven fabrics; blouses, shirts, trousers,
bedlinens, etc.
11 Narrow buttonhole
Light- to mediumweight fabrics. Blouses, dresses, children’s and
baby clothes, dolls’ clothes, crafts
12 Stretch buttonhole
All stretch fabrics made from cotton, wool, silk and synthetic fibers
13 Keyhole buttonhole
Heavy weight, non stretch fabrics. Jackets, coats, trousers,
leisure wear, etc.
14 Straigth stitch buttonhole
Pre-stitch program for bound buttonholes (Foot No. 3A) or pocket
openings (Foot No. 3, special accessory)
40
12
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
36
Presser feet
Standard foot selection
3A
1
2
1
Reverse pattern foot
Practical and decorative stitches
2
Overlock foot
Overlock seam, hems, oversewing
edges, narrow satin stitch
5
3A
Buttonhole foot with slide
Buttonhole on smooth fabrics,
darning
20
4
Zipper foot
Sewing in zips
37
9
5
Blind stitch foot
Blind hems, edge stitching
activa
activa
activa
activa
220
230
230
240
9
Darning foot
Freehand quilting for light to
medium weight quilts; darning
20
Open Embroidery foot
Embroidery, appliqué,
satin stitch seams
= presser foot shaft and 5 soles (1, 2, 3, 4, 5)
= 7 feet (1, 2, 3A, 4, 5, 9, 20)
PE = 7 feet (1, 3A, 4, 5, 9, 20, 57)
= 7 feet (1, 2, 3A, 4, 5, 9, 37)
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
37
Patchwork foot
Patchwork with seam allowance
1/4” or 1/8” (≈ 6 or 3 mm)
Selected practical stitches: Straight stitch with securing program
Securing program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Securing program No. 5*
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton/polyester
raised (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (activa 220)
Securing program
for all fabrics
• secures seam begin and end
• sews exactly over the previous stitches
•
Seam begin
• sewing computer secures automatically (5 stitches forwards,
5 reverse)
• continues sewing straight stitch forwards
Seam end
• press the reverse button = sewing computer secures
automatically (5 stitches reverse, 5 forwards)
• stops automatically when securing is complete
* 230 PE see appendix A2
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37
38
Selected practical stitches: Zig-zag stitch
Zig-zag stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Zig-zag No. 2
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (activa 220)
Zig-zag stitch
for all fabrics
• for neatening edges
• for decorative work
•
Satin stitch
• dense (shorter) zig-zag stitch = filled in zig-zag
• adjust the stitch width as you sew for new effects
Oversewing edges
• guide edge of fabric under the center of the presser foot
• needle goes into fabric on one strike and over the edge of the
fabric on the next stroke
• do not select too wide a width or too long a stitch – the edge
should lie flat and not roll
• use darning thread for fine fabrics
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
A
B
C
A Zig-zag stitch with altered
stitch width
B Zig-zag stitch with altered
stitch length
C Fabric edges finished with
zig-zag stitch
Selected practical stitches: Basting stitch
Basting stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Basting stitch No. 21 (activa 230 No. 19, activa 220 No. 16)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton/polyester
lowered (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9 (optional for activa 220)
Basting stitch
• for all work which requires a very long stitch
• for basting seams, hems, quilts, etc.
• easy to remove
Preparation:
• pin work horizontally to basting direction to prevent the
layers slipping
Basting
• lower the feed-dog
• position work under the presser foot and sew one stitch;
hold threads when starting to sew
• pull work from behind to the required length of the stitch
• sew one stitch and repeat the procedure
TIP
Securing /fixing the thread
• sew a few basting stitches at the beginning and end of a seam
Basting
• use a fine darning thread for basting as it is easier to remove
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39
40
Selected practical stitches: Blind hem
Blind hem
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Blind stitch No. 7
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Blind stitch foot No. 5
Blind stitch sole No. 5 (activa 220)
Blind hem
for «invisible» hems in medium to heavy cotton, wool
and blended fabrics
Preparation
• neaten raw edges
• prepare seam as for sewing by hand
• place work under the presser foot (see drawing)
Sewing
• the needle should just pierce
the edge of the fold (same as
hand sewing)
• adjust the stitch width to suit
the fabric
• after sewing about 10 cm
(4"), check both sides of
fabric and adjust width again
if necessary
Wrong side of
fabric
5
TIP
Wrong side of
fabric
Right side of fabric
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Fine stitch width adjustment
Guide the folded edge evenly
along the metal guide on the
foot = even depth
Selected practical stitches: Darning
41
Darning program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Darning Program No. 17 (activa 230 No. 15, activa 220 No. 13)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
darning thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (activa 220)
Buttonhole foot No. 3A
Quick darning of holes or worn areas
Replacement of damaged fibres/threads
Darning with Reverse pattern foot No. 1 (auto stitch counter)
• insert needle in top left of damaged area
• sew the first length and stop the sewing computer
• press the quick reverse button: length is programmed
• complete the darn; the sewing computer stops automatically
• clear the programme by pressing the «clr/del»-button
Large areas:
• the darning area can be extended by moving the work
under the foot
Darning with Buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A (activa 230, 240)
• use for small tears and damaged areas, not more than
3 cm (11/4”) long
• use same method as with foot No. 1
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
TIP
Reinforcement
use fine fabric or interlining as
a backing
Preparation
stretch fabric into darning
ring* prevents puckering
*The darning ring is available as a
special accessory
42
Selected practical stitches: Zippers
Zippers
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Zipper foot No. 4
Zip sole No. 4 (activa 220)
far right or far left
Preparation:
• baste in zipper
• fabric edges should meet over the center of the zipper
4
Sewing
• sew in the zipper, each side from bottom to top
• once with needle position far right and once with
needle position far left
• the edge of the foot runs along the teeth of the zip
• the needle inserts close to the teeth
TIP
To sew around zipper pull
• close zipper and sew up to
about 5 cm (2") away from
the pull
• insert needle, raise the
presser foot, open the zipper,
lower the foot and continue
to sew
Seam begin
hold thread firmly when
starting to sew = pull fabric
slightly to the back (fewer
stitches)
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Zipper or fabric is thick or
densely woven
use a 90–100 needle for even
stitch formation
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
43
Everything you need to know about buttonholes
Thread tension
thread the bobbin thread through the finger of the bobbin case = the bobbin tension is
a little tighter
• this gives the beads on the right side of the fabric a slightly rounded appearance
• the buttonhole looks more attractive
· gimp reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance (pages 45, 46)
•
Buttonholes are not only
practical closures, they can
also be used to decorative
effect
Select the buttonhole of your
choice; the following appears
on the screen:
0
1
2
3
4
5
5
5.5
4
3
2
1
1
3
0
2
1 Buttonhole number
2 Buttonhole symbol
3 Presser foot number
Mark the length of
automatic buttonholes
• mark the length of just
one buttonhole
• after sewing the first
buttonhole, the length for all
subsequent buttonholes is
automatically programmed
• mark only the beginning of
all subsequent buttonholes
• stitch using Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Mark the length of manual
buttonholes
• mark the buttonhole length
in the appropriate position
• stitch using buttonhole foot
No. 3 (optional accessory)
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Mark the length of keyhole
buttonholes
• mark the bead length only
• the correct length eye will be
added when the buttonhole
is sewn
44
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Test sewing
• always test sew on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use
• select the buttonhole type you intend to use
• sew the buttonhole in the same direction on the fabric (with or
against the grain)
• cut the buttonhole open
• push the button through and adjust the buttonhole length if
necessary
TIP
Corrections
To adjust the bead width:
• alter the stitch width
• altered stitch widths can be deleted by pressing the «clr/del»button
Altering the stitch length:
• any alterations to the stitch length affect both beads (denser or
less dense)
• altered stitch length can be deleted by pressing the «clr/del»button
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
Balance for automatic/manual buttonholes
• any balance alterations to the 6-step manual and auto length
buttonholes affects both beads identically because they are sewn
in the same direction
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
If a buttonhole is to be sewn at
right angles to a seam, we
recommend the use of the buttonhole leveler. Insert the plate
from behind between the
fabric and the foot up to and
over the thicker area.
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
45
Buttonhole with gimp
3A
3A
Gimp
• gimp cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their
appearance
• the loop of the cord should
be at the end of the buttonhole most subject to wear
cord loop = where button is
sewn on
• position the work accordingly
• gimp cord is particularly
recommended for standard
and stretch buttonholes
Ideal cords
• Perle yarn No. 8
• strong hand sewing thread
• fine crochet yarn
Hooking the cord in the buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A
• insert the needle at the
beginning of the buttonhole
• raise the presser foot
• guide the cord under the foot
to the right
• hook the cord over the pin at
the back of the foot
•
•
•
bring the cords to the front of
the foot
pull them into the slit
sew the buttonhole
Sewing
• sew the buttonhole in the
usual manner
• do not hold the cord tightly
• the buttonhole will form over
the cord, covering it
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Hooking the cord onto presser
foot No. 3 or buttonhole sole
No. 3 (activa 220)
• insert the needle at the
beginning of the buttonhole
• raise the presser foot
• hook the cord over the centre
pin on the front of the foot
46
•
•
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
place both ends of the cord
in the grooves on the sole of
the foot and pull them to the
back
lower the presser foot
Securing the cord
• pull the cord through the
buttonhole
• pull cords through to back of
fabric
• knot or secure with stitches
Cutting buttonholes open
with the seam ripper
• use the back of the seam
ripper to nick the stitches
• cut from both ends towards
the middle
Sewing
• sew the buttonhole in the
usual manner
• do not hold the cord tightly
• the buttonhole will form over
the cord, covering it
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Buttonhole cutter and block
(special accessory)
• place the fabric on the wood
• place the cutter in the centre
of the buttonhole
• press down on the cutter
with your hand or a hammer
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Automatic standard buttonhole with auto length (activa 230/240)
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Note:
The automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A must lie perfectly flat on
the fabric. If the foot lies on a seam, the length cannot be measured accurately.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
3A
Standard buttonhole No. 10
size and type suitable for fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic standard buttonhole
• insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case (p. 43)
• when using Buttonhole foot No. 3A, the length of the buttonhole is automatically registered by the lens on the foot = exact
duplication and automatic sequence change when the maximum
length has been sewn
• each step of the sewing sequence blinks on the screen
Note:
When any automatic buttonhole is selected,
presser foot No. 3 is indicated on the screen.
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
47
48
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Programme the standard buttonhole
1 sew the first bead forwards, stop the sewing computer
• press the reverse button
• «auto» and presser foot No. 3A are indicated on the screen =
the buttonhole length is programmed
1
2
3
4
5
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
2
3
4
5
•
the sewing computer sews reverse straight stitch automatically
the first bar tack
the second bead forwards
the second bar tack and securing stitches
sewing computer stops and returns automatically to buttonhole
begin
TIP
Exact duplicates
the auto function ensures that
each buttonhole will be exactly
the same length as the previous one
Marking
mark only the beginning of the
buttonholes – a real time
saver!
Auto buttonhole
• all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn to exactly the same
length (no need to press the reverse button)
• press the «clr/del»-button to delete the programme
• the programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long term
memory (see p. 53)
Sewing speed
• sew at moderate speed for
best results
• sew all buttonholes at the
same speed for a consistent
bead density
Corrections see p. 44
Compensating plates for
buttonholes (special accessory)
If a buttonhole is to be sewn
horizontally to the edge of the
garment, it is worth using the
compensating plates.
This accessory provides an even
surface for the buttonhole foot
with slide which results in a perfect buttonhole (see tips p. 44).
Balance
• any changes to the balance affect both beads of auto length
buttonholes, because both beads are sewn in the same direction
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Automatic keyhole buttonhole with auto length (activa 230/240)
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
3A
Keyhole buttonhole No. 13 (activa 230 No. 11)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Automatic keyhole buttonhole
• insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin case (p. 43)
• when using Buttonhole foot No. 3A, the length of the buttonhole is automatically registered by the lens on the foot = exact
duplication and automatic sequence change when the maximum
length has been sewn
Marking the keyhole buttonhole
• mark the bead length only. The correct eye length will be added
when the buttonhole is sewn.
• each step of the sewing sequence blinks on the screen
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
49
50
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
1
2
3
4
5
6
Programming the buttonhole
1 sew the straight stitch forward, stop the sewing
computer,
• press the reverse button
• auto and presser foot No. 3A are displayed on
the screen = buttonhole length is programmed
2 the sewing computer automatically sews the eye
3 the first bead in reverse
4 sews second straight stitch
5 sews second bead in reverse
6 sews bartack and securing stitches
•
the sewing computer stops and returns automatically
to buttonhole begin
Auto buttonhole
• all subsequent buttonholes will be sewn automatically
to the same length (without pressing the reverse button)
• Press the «clr/del»-button to delete the programme
• the programmed buttonhole can be saved in the long
term memory (see p. 53)
Corrections see p. 44
Note:
When all buttonholes have
been sewn, return balance to
the normal setting!
Balance
• any changes to the balance affect both beads of auto
length buttonholes, because both beads are sewn in the
same direction
• any distortions to keyhole buttonholes can be corrected
with balance
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
TIP
Exact duplicates
the auto function ensures
that each buttonhole will be
exactly the same length as
the previous one
Marking
mark only the beginning of
the buttonholes – a real time
saver!
Double sewn keyhole
buttonholes
• keyhole buttonholes can be
sewn twice on thick fabrics
• after sewing the first buttonhole, do not move the work
• simply tap the foot control
once to begin sewing again
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Manual buttonhole (all types)
Manual buttonholes are particularly suitable for single buttonholes or for repairing
existing buttonholes.
Individual steps can be eliminated or repeated. The number of steps
corresponds to the buttonhole type. Manual buttonholes cannot be saved.
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
any buttonhole
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole sole No. 3 (activa 220)
Buttonhole foot No. 3 (optional accessory
activa 230/240)
Preparation
• select the desired buttonhole
• screen shows:
buttonhole number
presser foot No. 3
the buttonhole symbol (the first step blinks on the
screen)
• insert the lower thread in the finger of the bobbin
case
Always test sew buttonholes
• test on the fabric and stabilizer you intend to use
• sew buttonholes in the same grain direction
(with or against)
Note: Corrections see p. 44
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
51
52
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Sewing a manual standard buttonhole
Both beads are sewn in the same direction.
The individual steps blink on the screen.
1
1 sew the first bead forward, stop the sewing computer
• press the reverse button
2 sew reverse straight stitch, stop the sewing computer at the first
stitch (buttonhole begin)
• press the reverse button
3 sew the bartack and the second bead, stop the sewing computer
• press the reverse button
4 sew the bartack and the securing stitches
2
4
3
Manual keyhole buttonhole
Sew both forward and reverse beads at the same speed.
The individual steps blink on the screen.
1 sew straight stitch forwards, stop the sewing computer, press the reverse button
2 sew the eye and the first bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first
stitch (buttonhole begin), press the reverse button
1
3
2
4
5
3 sew straight stitch forwards and stop at the keyhole, press the quick
reverse button
4 sew the second bead in reverse, stop the sewing computer at the first stitch
(buttonhole begin), press the reverse button
5 sew bartack and securing stitches
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Selected practical stitches: Buttonholes
Programmed buttonholes (only activa 230/240)
Saving programmed buttonholes in long term memory
• after programming press the «
»-button
• the buttonhole is now saved in long term memory
Opening saved buttonholes
Programmed saved buttonholes can be opened for re-use even after the sewing computer
has been disconnected.
• select the buttonhole
• press the «
»-button
• sew the programmed buttonhole
• only one of any style buttonhole can be saved, if a new length is saved
with «
», it overwrites the previously saved buttonhole
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53
54
Selected practical stitches: Handlook quilt stitch
Handlook quilt stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Upper thread:
Bobbin thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Quilt stitch No. 40 (activa 230 No. 33, activa 220 No. 27)
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
monofilament
30/2 cotton thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (activa 220)
Quilt/hand stitch
for all fabrics and all types of work which should have a handsewn look
Sewing test
the bobbin thread must come through to the right side:
1 stitch is visible
1 stitch is invisible (monofilament) = hand stitched effect
Upper thread tension
depending on the fabric = increase the tension (6–9)
Balance
adjust if necessary
Sewing
Quilt stitch can be sewn with any needle position
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
TIP
Perfect corners
activate needle-stop down
and then turn work
•
Monofilament breaks
• sew more slowly
• reduce upper thread tension
slightly
Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program
Button sewing-on program
Stitch:
Stitch width
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Button sewing-on program No. 15 (activa 230 No. 13,
activa 220 No. 12)
depends on distance between the holes
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
down (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9 (optional for activa 220)
Button sew-on foot No. 18 (optional accessory)
Sewing on buttons
sews buttons with 2 or 4 holes
• buttons being sewn on for decorative purposes only
can be stitched without forming a thread shank
• the length of the shank (= thread between button and fabric)
can be made shorter or longer as required with foot No. 18
•
Sewing on buttons with foot No. 9
• select Button Sew-on program
• check distances between holes with the handwheel and adjust
stitch width if necessary
• sew the securing stitches; hold the threads when starting to sew
• sew
• sewing computer stops automatically when program is
completed and is ready for the next button
Beginning and ending threads
• the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For added security
• after sewing on the button, pull the upper thread ends
through to the wrong side and knot
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
55
56
Selected practical stitches: Button sewing-on program
Sewing on buttons with foot No. 18
• set the shank length with the screw on the foot
• select Button sewing-on program and continue as
with foot No. 9 (p. 55)
TIP
4-hole button
sew the front holes
• carefully move the button
forward
• sew the back holes
• cut the diagonal joining
thread
•
Beginning and ending threads
• the threads are secured and can be trimmed
For added security
• after sewing on the button, pull the upper thread ends
through to the wrong side and knot or
• using the upper thread ends to sew a «shank» by hand
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams
57
Vari-overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
2
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2, Overlock sole No. 2 (activa 220) or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1,
Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (activa 220)
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Closed seam
Stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk jersey and interlock.
Sewing
• guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
• the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
TIP
Knits and jersey
use a new needle to prevent
damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) = needle
point slides between the fibers
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
58
Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams
Double overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
2
Double overlock No. 8
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2, Overlock sole No. 2 (activa 220) or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1,
Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (activa 220)
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Closed seam
overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams in knits and jerseys
Sewing
• guide the raw edge along the pin on the overlock foot
• the stitch will form over the pin and over the edge of the fabric
TIP
Knits and jersey
use a new needle to prevent
damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) = needle
point slides between the fibers
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Selected practical stitches: Overlock seams
59
Ribbing with overlock seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
2
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2, Overlock sole No. 2 (activa 220) or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1,
Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (activa 220)
Overlock foot No. 2 is specially designed for overlock stitches.
The pin on the foot produces more thread in each stitch so that
the elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Back view
Ribbing with overlock seam
for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
• fold ribbing in half
• pin and baste to opening, right side outside
Sewing
• sew Vari-overlock over the raw edge
• guide the edge along the pin on the foot
Front view
TIP
Needle stop down
needle stays in fabric when
you stop to adjust the ribbing
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
60
Selected practical stitches: Honeycomb stitch
Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Honeycomb No. 22 (activa 230 No. 22, activa 220 No. 19)
universal, ballpoint or stretch as needed
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No.1
Reverse pattern sole No. 1 (activa 220)
Ribbing with visible seam
for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed fiber jersey
Preparation
press 1 cm (3/8") to wrong side
Sewing
sew from the right at a foot's width from the edge
• trim surplus fabric (wrong side)
•
Balance/corrections
Note:
After sewing return balance
to the normal setting!
TIP
bring stitch together
open out stitch
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Needle stop down
needle stays in fabric when
you stop to adjust the ribbing
Needles, Threads
61
Important facts about sewing computer needles
Sewing computer, needle and thread
Your BERNINA uses needle system 130/705H.
Needle and thread
The most commonly sold needles are nos. 70 –120.
The finer the needle, the lower the number. The table
shows which needle is suitable for which threads.
Needle
70
80
90
Darning thread
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Embroidery thread
Mercerised
cotton thread
Synthetic thread
Needle appropriate
for thread
When sewing, the thread
runs in the long groove on
the needle.
Needle inappropriate
for thread
If the needle is too fine, the
groove will be too narrow for
the thread and faulty stitching
or thread breakage can occur.
Thick threads,
synthetic mercerised
thread
•
Buttonhole thread
for decorative
seams (cordonnet)
100
110 –120
•
•
•
Needle and fabric
Condition of needle
The needle must be in perfect
condition. Problems can occur
with damaged needles.
bent needle
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
blunt needle
hooked needle
62
Needles
Special materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used.
Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.
Needle table
Description
Needle point
Suitable for
Standard
needle
130/705 H
Normal point,
slightly
rounded
Universal needle for woven, needle synthetic and
natural fibers, e.g. linen, chiffon, batiste, organdie,
wool, satin, decorative stitching, embroidery
Special
needles
130/705 H-SES
Fine ball point
Fine knits, especially for synthetic fibers
Heavier knits in synthetic or natural fibers
130/705 H-SUK Medium ball
point
130/705 H-S
Medium ball
point
Special needle for delicate or difficult stretch fabrics
130/705 H-J
Extra fine point
Overalls, heavy linen, denim, canvas.
Pierces dense fabrics easily
130/705
H-LR + H-LL
Cutting point
Natural and synthetic leather, plastic, coated
and waxed fabric
Double needle
130/705 H-ZWI
Widths:
1,6 / 2,0 / 2,5
3,0 / 4,0
Visible hems in stretch fabrics, pintucks,
decorative sewing
Triple needle
130/705 H-DRI
Widths:
2,5 / 3,0
Decorative sewing
Hemstitch
needle
130/705 HO
Width:
2,0
Hemstitch in loose weaves
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Needle, thread, fabric feed
Feed-dog and fabric feed
Feed-dog and stitch length
With each stitch the feed-dog moves forward by one step.
The length of this step is determined by the stitch length selected.
With an extremely short stitch length, the steps are also short.
The fabric moves under the foot quite slowly, even at full sewing
speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and decorative stitches are all
sewn with a very short stitch length.
Important
Let the fabric feed evenly!
Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric will result in uneven
stitches.
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
63
64
Needle, thread, fabric feed
Feed-dog and fabric feed with compensating plates
1
1
The feed-dog can work
normally when the foot is level.
If the foot is at an angle, e.g.
when sewing over thick to thin
or vice-versa, the feed-dog
cannot grip and feed the fabric
and the fabric hangs up.
Uneven layers
To solve this problem, place
one, two or three compensating plates as required behind
the needle under the presser
foot.
To correct the height in front of
the foot, place one or more
plates to the right of the foot
close to the needle. Sew until the
foot is level again and remove
the plates.
Thick fabrics: feed-dog and sewing corners
The gap between the two rows
of teeth is relatively large due
to the width of the stitch plate
hole.
When sewing corners only a
small section of the fabric is
actually on the feed-dog so
that it cannot grip the fabric
well.
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Correct this by placing one
or more compensating
plates as close as possible
to the edge of the fabric.
Cleaning and maintenance
65
Cleaning
If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a
warm room about one hour before use.
Cleaning
Clean the sewing computer after every use
• turn power switch to «0» (off) and pull out
plug from electric outlet
• remove presser foot and needle
• open the free-arm cover
• press the stitch plate down at the back right
corner, lift and remove
• clean the area with the lint brush
• replace the stitch plate
Cleaning the hook
• turn power switch to «0» (off) and pull out
plug from electric outlet
• remove the bobbin case
• push the release lever to the left
• push the locking lever to the left and fold
down the hook race cover
• remove the hook
• clean the hook race with a cloth or brush,
never use a sharp instrument
• replace the hook, turning the handwheel if
necessary so that the hook driver is on the left
• close the hook race cover and secure with the
locking lever, the locking pin must engage
• check by turning the handwheel
• insert the bobbin case
Cleaning the screen and the sewing computer
wipe with a damp cloth
•
CAUTION
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
Lubricating
squeeze 2–3 drops of oil into the hook race
• run the machine for a short time without
thread to prevent oil soiling your work
•
Important!
Never use alcohol, petrol, white spirit or any
type of solvent to clean the sewing computer!
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Refer to the safety instruction!
66
Cleaning and maintenance
Sewing light
CAUTION
Disconnect plug
from the socket
before cleaning
and servicing
Note:
Use bulb type
12 V 5 W.
W 2.1 x 9.5 d.
Replacing the bulb
• turn power switch to «0»
• loosen the screw
•
remove the cover by lifting it
slightliy and detaching from
the top
•
•
•
remove the bulb
insert the new bulb
replace cover and tighten
screw
Refer to the safety
instruction!
Replacing the Sewing Light**
Contrary to an ordinary bulb,
the CFL sewing light has
a better illumination and a
longer life.
Please refer to the safety instructions!
Light bulbs get hot.
Allow to cool down before
removal.
Caution:
Please note that a defective
CFL sewing light must ONLY
be replaced by an authorized
technician. The sewing computer must be brought to an
authorized BERNINA dealer!
** Available as a special accessory
for activa 220, 230
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Faults
67
Trouble shooting
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults
by checking the following.
Check whether:
the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
• the needle is inserted correctly
• the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table p. 61
• the sewing computer is clean – brush out any thread fluff
• the hook race is clean
• any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the
bobbin case spring
• the bobbin runs smoothly in the case or if remnants or lint need
removing
•
Upper thread breaks
• The upper thread tension
is too tight.
• The needles are of a poor
quality. Ideally needles should
be purchased from your
BERNINA dealer.
• The needle is bent or blunt.
• Poor quality, knotted or dried
out thread has been used.
• Use the correct spool disc.
• Stitch plate or hook tip
damaged. Take your sewing
computer to your BERNINA
dealer.
Lower thread breaks
• The lower thread tension is
too tight.
• The bobbin is jamming in
the bobbin case. Remove and
replace the bobbin.
• The hole in the stitch plate
has been damaged by the
needle. This must be
repolished by an expert.
• The needle is blunt or bent.
Skipped stitches
• Wrong needles used.
Use only 130/705H system.
• The needle is blunt, bent or
incorrectly inserted.
• Push right to the top when
inserting.
• Needle inserted all the way
to the top.
• The needle point does not
suit the fabric being sewn.
If necessary use a ball point
for knitted fabrics and
cutting point for hard leather.
Needle breaks
• Needle clamp screw loose.
• Fabric taken out in front
instead of behind presser foot.
• When sewing over thick area,
the fabric was pushed with
the needle still in the fabric.
• Poor quality thread, unevenly
wound or knotted.
• See pages 61 and 62 for
information about needles
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Faulty stitching
• Remnants of thread between
the tension discs.
• Remnants of thread under
the bobbin case spring.
• Lower thread still threaded in
the bobbin case finger.
• Sewing computer threaded
with foot down.
• Incorrect threading. Check
upper and lower threads.
• Use the correct spool disc.
Sewing computer fails to run
or runs slowly
• Plug not properly inserted.
• Power switch in off position.
• Sewing computer has been
standing in a cold room.
• Bobbin winder still switched
on.
68
Index
Index
A
Accessories
Accessory box
8
9
B
Balance 31, 60
Basting stitch 39
Blanket stitch A3
Blind hem 40
Bobbin 13
Bobbin case 14
Bobbin thread cutter 14
Bringing up the lower thread 20
Button sewing-on program 55
Buttonholes 43– 53
• Altering buttonholes
44
• Automatic keyhole buttonhole
49–50
• Automatic standard buttonhole
47–48
• Buttonhole with gimp
45–46
• Manual buttonhole
51–52
• Programmed buttonholes
53
D
H
Darning program 41
Details of the sewing computer 4 –7
Double blanket stitch A3
Double overlock seam 58
Handlook quilt stitch A5
Honeycomb stitch 60
I
Inserting the bobbin 15
F
Fabric cover 8
Fabric feed, Needles, Threads 61–64
Feather stitch A6
Feed-dog 21, 63
Foot control 11
Functions 25–26
• #-button
26
• 1/2 speed
25
• clr/del (clear/delete)
26
• Letters
26
• mem (Memory)
26
• Mirror image
24
• Needle stop
24
• Reverse sewing
24
• Stitch end
24
C
Changing the needle 15
Changing the presser foot 16, 17
CFL 8, 66
Cleaning 65
Compensating plates 64
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
K
Keyhole buttonhole 49
Knits and jersey 57, 58
L
Letters programming 29
Lower thread 20
Lens Set 8
M
Maintenance 65, 66
Memory 27
• Corrections in Memory
• Leave Memory
30
• Memory buttons
27
• Open Memory
27
29
Index
•
•
•
Programming letters, numbers and
punctuation marks 29
Programming practical and decorative
stitches 28
Scroll backwards/forwards 28
N
Needle position 24
Needles, Threads, Fabric feed 61–64
Needle Threader 19
O
Overlock seam 59
P
Power cable 10
Presser feet 36
Presser foot lifter 12
Q
Quilters securing program A2
Quilt stitch (Handlook quilt stitch) A5
R
T
Ribbing with overlock seam 59
Reverse sewing 24
Threads, Fabric feed, Needles 61–64
Thread cutter 13, 20
Thread tension 22
Threading the upper thread 18
Trouble shooting 67
S
Screen shows 23
Seam guide 12
Securing program 37
Self-facing with Honeycomb stitch 60
Sewing light 8, 66
Sewing table 12
Single blanket stitch A3
Spool pin 17
Standard accessories 8
Standard buttonhole 47–48
Stiches 32–35, A1
Stipple stitch A4
Stitch length/width 24
Stitch plate 21
Stitch selection 24
Stretch fabrics 57, 58
Supplementary spool pin 17
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
U
Upper thread 18
V
Vari-overlock seam 57
W
Winding the bobbin 13
Z
Zippers 42
69
70
Contents
2
Important safety Instructions
41
• Darning program
4
Details
42
• Zippers
10
Setting up the sewing computer
43
• Buttonholes
23
Operating instructions
54
• Hanlook quilt stitch
32
Stitches
55
• Button sewing-on program
36
Presser feet
57
• Overlock
Selected practical stitches:
60
• Honeycomb
37
• Securing program
61
Needle, Thread, Fabric Feed
38
• Zig-zag stitch
65
Cleaning, Maintenance, Troubleshooting
39
• Basting stitch
68
Index
40
• Blind hem
A1–A6 Appendix
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
71
BERNINA is committed to the protection of the environment. We strive to minimize the environmental impact of our products by continuously improving product design and our technology of
manufacturing.
At end of life please dispose of this product in an environmentally responsible way according to the
national directive. Do not throw away this product with your household waste. In case of doubt,
please contact your dealer.
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Impressum
Typesetting, Layout, DTP: Silvia Bartholdi
Graphics: Müller-Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen
Copyright
2008 BERNINA International AG, Steckborn
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
06/08 EN 031 611 73 04
72
activa 230 Patchwork Edition: Stitches
Stitches
Practical
1 Straight stitch
2 Zig-zag
3 Vari-overlock
4 Running stitch
5 Quilters securing program
6 Triple straight and zig-zag
7 Blind stitch
8 Double overlock
9 Super stretch stitch
10 Standard buttonhole
11 Keyhole buttonhole
12 Straight stitch buttonhole
13 Button sewing-on program
14 Eylet
15 Darning program
16 Gathering stitch
17 Stretch overlock
18 Jersey stitch
19 Basting stitch
20 Universal stitch
21 Lycra stitch
22 Honeycomb stitch
23–32 Quilting stitches
33–70 Decorative stitches
activa 230 PE
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
#
clr
del
0
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
A1
A2
activa 230 Patchwork Edition: Straight stitch with securing program
Quilters securing program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Quilters securing program No. 5
80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex
cotton/polyester or Monofilament for the upper thread
and cotton or polyester for the lower thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional)
Securing program
for all fabrics
• secures seam begin and end
TIP
•
•
Seam begin
• sewing computer secures automatically (6 short stitches forwards)
• continues sewing straight stitch forwards
•
Seam end
• press the reverse button = sewing computer secures
automatically (6 short stitches forwards)
• stops automatically when securing is complete
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
when quilting, the quilt
securing program can be
combined for example with
the handlook quilt stitch
No. 32
for work which is likely to be
subjected to heavy wear or
laundering, use straight stitch
No. 1 for securing
activa 230 Patchwork Edition: Blanket stitch
A3
Blanket stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Single blanket stitch No. 25 or Double blanket stitch No. 26
80
machine thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Open Embroidery foot No. 20
center
Preparation
• cut desired applique shapes
• fuse or baste as desired to a background fabric
Sewing
• place the fabric under the needle and position it so the wide
portion of the stitch will form on the applique and the straight
portion will fall just outside of it on the background fabric
• stitch around entire applique shape
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
TIP
•
for a hand-stitched look,
increase the stitch length and
width when appliqueing
heavy fabrics such as felt,
flannel, and Ultra Suede®
A4
activa 230 Patchwork Edition: Stipple stitch
Stipple stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Stipple stitch No. 23
80
machine thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1
center
Preparation
prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing a layer of batting
between the quilt top and the backing fabric (fabric will be
right sides out)
• pin or baste layers together
•
Sewing
• place the quilt sandwich under the needle and sew the stipple
stitch as desired across the fabric.
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
Bild PE 140
Nähanleitung S. 24
oben rechts
activa 230 Patchwork Edition: Handlook quilting
Handlook quilt stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Tension:
Balance:
Hand-look quilt stitch No. 24
80 Quilting, Jeans, Sharp, or Microtex
0.044 monofilament for the upper thread and
40 or 30 weight cotton for the lower thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional)
as desired
tighten to 6– 9
adjust if necessary
Preparation
• prepare a «quilt sandwich» by placing a layer of batting
between the quilt top and the backing fabric (fabric will be
right sides out)
• pin or baste layers together
Sewing
• place the quilt sandwich under the needle and sew the handlook quilt stitch as desired across the fabric
• the bobbin thread should pull to the surface of the fabric and
give the appearance of a hand-sewn running stitch
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
TIP
•
moderate speed for best
results
A5
A6
activa 230 Patchwork Edition: Feather stitch
Feather stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed-dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Feather stitch No. 28
80
machine thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1 or
Open Embroidery Foot No. 20
center
Use this delicate embroidery stitch to embellish fabric or
to cover patchwork seams.
Preparation
• piece patchwork shapes as desired
Sewing
• place the fabric under the needle and position it so the center
portion of the stitch will fall «in-the-ditch» of the seam
• stitch, embellishing seams as desired
TIP
•
031611.73.04_0608_a220 a230 a240_EN
for variety, increase or
decrease the length and
width of the pre-programmed
feather stitch