Tower Hobbies Vista Sailplane EP ARF 78.5 Product manual

™

Wingspan: 78.5 in [2000mm]

Wing Area: 678 sq in [43.7dm

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Weight: 45 – 50 oz [1275 – 1415g]

Wing Loading: 9.6 – 10.6 oz/sq ft [29 – 32g/dm 2 ]

Length: 41 in [1035mm]

Motor: Included 550

Radio: Three-channel, two standard servos

WARRANTY

TOWER HOBBIES ® guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall TOWER HOBBIES' liability exceed the

original cost of the purchased kit. Further, TOWER HOBBIES reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that TOWER HOBBIES has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT

INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.

TOWER HOBBIES

P.O. Box 9078

Champaign, IL 61826

(800) 637-6050 www.towerhobbies.com

Entire Contents © Copyright 2006 V1.0

TOWZ0004 for TOWA4015

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION ........................................................................2

AMA............................................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...........................................................2

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED..............................................3

Radio Components ..............................................................3

Battery & Charger ................................................................3

Adhesives & Building Supplies ............................................3

Optional Supplies & Tools ....................................................3

Hardware & Accessories......................................................3

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS .......................................3

Replacement Parts List........................................................3

KIT INSPECTION .......................................................................4

KIT CONTENTS .........................................................................4

METRIC/INCH RULER ...............................................................4

ASSEMBLY ................................................................................5

Preparations.........................................................................5

Join the Wings .....................................................................5

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE ...................................................6

Join the Stabilizer.................................................................6

Join the Fin ..........................................................................7

Hook Up the Controls ..........................................................9

Mount the Receiver............................................................10

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ..........................................11

Check the ESC ..................................................................11

Check the Control Directions .............................................12

Set the Control Throws ......................................................12

Balance the Model (C.G.) ..................................................13

PREFLIGHT..............................................................................14

Identify Your Model.............................................................14

Charge the Batteries ..........................................................14

Range Check .....................................................................14

MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ..........................................14

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts).............................................14

CHECK LIST ............................................................................15

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY .................................................15

FLYING .....................................................................................15

Mount the Wing ..................................................................15

Takeoff................................................................................15

Flight ..........................................................Back Cover Page

Landing ......................................................Back Cover Page

INTRODUCTION

manual) may endanger insurance coverage. Additionally, training programs and instructors are available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right way. There are over

2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the country. Contact the

AMA at the address or toll-free phone number that follows.

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: (800) 435-9262

Fax (765) 741-0057

Or via the Internet at: http://www.modelaircraft.org

IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over groups of people.

PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF &

OTHERS.....FOLLOW THESE IMPORTANT

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

1. Your Vista EP ARF should not be considered a toy, but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance capabilities, the Vista EP ARF, if not assembled and operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the

instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those instances the written instructions should be considered as correct.

3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

Thank you for purchasing the TOWER HOBBIES Vista ™ EP

ARF motor glider. Identical in construction to the Vista ARF sailpane, this EP version features a standard, 550-size electric motor that eliminates the need to lay out the Hi-Start launch system typically required for thermal soaring. This

EP version therefore requires less space and time to get into the air! Easy-to-fly electric-powered motor gliders such as this are a great way for beginners to get into the hobby–they are relatively inexpensive and they fly and react slowly enough to give novice flyers time to think and react.

And when those rising air currents (thermals) appear, the

Vista EP ARF can still soar with the best of them.

4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in firstclass condition.

5. You must correctly install all R/C and other components so that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air.

6. You must check the operation of the model before every flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they show any signs of wear or fatigue.

AMA

We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model

Aeronautics) and a local R/C club. The AMA is the governing body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at AMA clubs. Though joining the AMA provides many benefits, one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection. Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts printed in the back of the

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7. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this type of model before, we recommend that you get the assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose membership includes experienced pilots.

8. While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use, if the plane will be used for extremely high-stress flying the modeler is responsible for taking steps to reinforce the high-stress points.

We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality, thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the quality and flyability of your finished model depends on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way guarantee the performance of your completed model, and no representations are expressed or implied as to the performance or safety of your completed model.

Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

Optional Supplies & Tools

❍ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)

❍ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)

❍ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)

❍ Builder’s Triangle Set (HCAR0480)

❍ Denatured alcohol for epoxy clean up

❍ CG Machine ™ (GPMR2400)

❍ Medium T-pins (HCAR5150)

Hardware & Accessories

❍ Spare #64 rubber bands (TOWQ1220)

❍ 1" [25mm] Double-sided foam mounting tape (GPMQ4442)

❍ Velcro ® strips (1" x 6" [25 x 150mm], (GPMQ4480)

-or- (see step 3 on page 10)

❍ 1/4" [6mm] R/C foam rubber (HCAQ1000)

❍ Custom Sealing Iron (TOWR3250)

❍ Hot Sock ™ iron cover (TOPR2175)

ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED

Radio Components

A minimum 3-channel radio (elevator, rudder, motor control) and two standard servos are required to fly the Vista EP

ARF. The TOWER HOBBIES System 3000 ™ 4-channel radio system is suitable and includes NiCd batteries and a battery charger for the radio system.

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

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TOWJ41** (System 3000 4-TH 4-channel FM radio system, no servos)

TOWM4525 (TS-53 standard servo)

Replacement parts for the Vista EP ARF are available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts List.

Replacement Parts may be ordered from TOWER HOBBIES at www.towerhobbies.com or by calling (217) 637-6050.

Battery & Charger

The TOWER Vista EP ARF comes with an electric motor and

ESC (electronic speed control), but the battery is not included.

Any 7-cell (8.4 Volt) battery pack made from “sub C” class

NiMH (nickel metal hydride) or NiCd (nickel-cadmium) rechargeable batteries with a Dean’s brand battery connector is suitable–the higher the capacity (mAh, or “mili Amp hour” rating), the longer the motor can run for longer flight times. To make multiple flights without waiting for the battery to charge, more than one battery may be purchased. The recommended battery is the Great Planes ElectriFly ™ 7-cell 8.4 Volt 2,000mAh

NiMH battery with the Dean’s connector (GPMP0351). Any other battery that meets the specification described may be used. A battery without a Dean’s connector may be used, but a

Dean’s-to-Tamiya battery adapter connector (GPMM3130) will also be required.

Powered by the battery recommended, motor run time will be approximately four minutes. Even without the aid of a breeze or rising air currents, this should be enough run time for at least sixto eight-minute flights.Motor run time and flight time can be extended by using batteries with higher capacity, but do not use batteries with higher voltage (more cells) as they will not fit in the model.

Parts may also be ordered from Hobby Services by calling

(217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721, but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will apply.

Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged sales tax.

If ordering via fax, include a Visa and expiration date for payment.

®

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or personal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason, contact Product

Support by e-mail at [email protected], or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.

or MasterCard ®

Hobby Services

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822 number

Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:

Replacement Parts List

A battery charger will also be required to charge the motor battery. There are dozens of suitable chargers available, but the one of the best values is the Great Planes ElectriFly Peak 400 ™

1- to 10-cell D/C Peak Charger.This charger must be connected to a 12 Volt power source (such as a car battery) and will detect when the motor battery is fully charged and automatically shut off (peak charge). It will charge both NiMH and NiCd batteries.

Since the recommended battery comes with a Dean’s connector and the charger comes with a Tamiya connector, a

Dean’s-to-Tamiya battery adapter connector (GPMM3130) will be required.

Order Number

TOWA4016

TOWA4017

TOWA4018

GPMA2343

GPMQ1690

GPMA2345

Description

Missing pieces

How to Purchase

Contact Product Support

Instruction manual Contact Product Support

Full-size plans Not available

Wing Kit

Fuselage Kit Only

Contact Hobby Supplier

Contact Hobby Supplier

Tail Set

550 Electric Motor

Contact Hobby Supplier

Contact Hobby Supplier

8x4 Propeller Assembly Contact Hobby Supplier

*ESC Contact Hobby Supplier

Adhesives & Building Supplies

❍ TOWER HOBBIES Build-It ™ 30-minute epoxy (TOWR3811)

❍ #1 Hobby knife (TOWR1010)

❍ Spare #11 blades (5-pack, TOWR1015)

❍ Drill and 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit

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*Note: This ESC will require that the Dean’s style plug be removed from the ESC that was included with this model and soldered onto the replacement part ESC.

KIT INSPECTION

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly, contact Product Support. When reporting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in the Kit Contents list on this page.

TOWER HOBBIES PRODUCT SUPPORT

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5

Fax: (217) 398-7721

E-mail: [email protected]

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Kit Contents

1.

Fuselage

2 Wing Dowels (2)

3.

Wire Pushrods (2)

4.

Aluminum/Wood Wing Joiner

5.

Servo Rails (2)

6.

Tri-Stock Vertical Stabilizer Braces (2)

7.

Vertical Stabilizer (Fin) w/Rudder

8.

Left Wing Panel

9.

Right Wing Panel

10. Horizontal Stabilizer (Stab) w/Elevator

Kit Contents (not photographed)

Bag 1

(2) 4" [100mm] Velcro Strips

(1) 1/8" x 3/8" x 8" [3 x 9.5 x 200mm] Balsa Stick

(1) Small Rubber Band

Bag 2

(2)

(2)

(2)

Control Horns

Clevises

90° Pushrod Connectors

(1) Tail Skid

(2) Clevis Retainers

(1) 1.5mm Hex Wrench

(4) 2 x 10mm Screws

To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4

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Preparations

ASSEMBLY

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1. Remove the protective foam from the tail.

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4. Cut the covering from the holes in the battery hatch, from the bottom of the fuselage and from the air inlets on both sides of the fuselage.

Join the Wings

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2. Remove the radio hatch and the battery hatch.

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3. Use a model airplane covering iron with a protective covering sock to remove any wrinkles present in the covering.

The best temperature setting, with a covering sock on the iron, is approximately 300° F (about “1-3/4” on a TOWER Custom

Sealing Iron). If this doesn’t seem to be enough heat to shrink the wrinkles, increase iron temperature in small increments until the wrinkles disappear.

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1. Without using any glue, test fit both wing halves together with the wing joiner. Make sure the halves fit together well and there is no gap. If there is a problem with the fit, look for obstructions such as glue bumps or wood slivers inside the wings where the joiners fit. Make any adjustments necessary to get a good fit.

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2. Place a sheet of wax paper on your workbench and gather all the items required for joining the wings: 30-minute epoxy, a mixing cup, an epoxy mixing stick, an epoxy brush, paper towels and denatured alcohol for epoxy clean up.

Hint: To cut down on waste, cut the paper towels into several small squares as shown in the photo.

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Caution: Do not use 5-minute epoxy for joining the wing halves. It will not provide enough working time.

Read steps 3 and 4 all the way through before proceeding. It is important to use the proper technique for joining the wing halves to ensure a strong wing.

tape on both the top and bottom of the wing to tightly hold the two halves together. If epoxy continues to work out of the wing under the tape, remove one strip at a time and wipe off the epoxy. Then replace the tape with another strip. Do not disturb the wing until the epoxy has hardened.

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5. After the epoxy has fully hardened, slowly and carefully pull away the masking tape. If any of the covering loosened, iron it back down with a covering iron on medium heat. Use a covering sock over the iron to protect the Vista EP ARF’s finish.

ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE

Join the Stabilizer

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3. Separate the wings and take out the joiner. Mix up approximately 1/2 oz. [15cc] of 30-minute epoxy. Use an epoxy brush to coat both ends of the wing and one half of the joiner all the way around. Pour a generous amount of epoxy into one of the wings where the joiner goes, and then

slowly insert the epoxy-coated half of the joiner. Wipe away excess epoxy as it is forced out of the wing. Note: There must be no “empty space” inside the wing where the joiner fits–the cavity must be filled with epoxy. If no epoxy “oozes” out when you installed the joiner, remove the joiner and add more epoxy. Then reinstall the joiner. Proceed rapidly to the next step.

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1. Cut the covering from the hole in the top of the fuselage for the forward dowel in the bottom of the vertical stabilizer (fin).

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4. Coat the protruding end of the joiner all the way around with epoxy and pour epoxy into the other wing. Join the wing to the other joiner/wing assembly, slowly pressing the two halves together. Allow excess epoxy to drip out as you go.

When the wings come together, wipe away excess epoxy that is squeezed out. Then use several strips of masking

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2. Cut off any covering that has been wrapped around the side of the fuselage over the top of the stab saddle where the stabilizer goes.

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3. Use a sharp hobby knife to cut the covering from the

bottom only of the horizontal stabilizer (stab) over the halfcircle notch in the trailing edge. Also cut the covering from both sides of the stab over the half-circle notch in the leading edge.

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6. Peel the covering from the bottom of the stabilizer.

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7. Reposition the stabilizer onto the fuselage. Resting the fuselage on your workbench, place a weight on top of the stab to hold it down. View the fuselage from the rear. If the stab is parallel with the workbench, proceed to the next step.

If the stab is not parallel with the workbench, remove the stab and use medium-grit sandpaper to sand down the “high side” of the stab saddle where the stab rests until you can get the stab level.

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4. Place the stab on the fuselage, keying the notches in the stab into the pegs on the fuselage. Use a fine-point, felttip pen to mark the outline of the fuselage onto the stab.

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5. Take the stab off the fuselage and follow the Expert Tip below or use a sharp hobby knife with a straightedge to cut along the lines. If using a hobby knife to cut the covering, take

great care not to cut into the wood. Cutting into the wood will weaken the structure which could cause it to fail in flight.

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8. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the stab into position–be certain to coat both the bottom of the stab and the fuselage with epoxy. Use weight or T-pins to hold the stab in position until the epoxy hardens.

Join the Fin

How to cut covering from balsa.

Rather than using a hobby knife which could inadvertently cut into the balsa, use a heated soldering iron. Move the iron at a pace that will just melt the covering without burning into the wood–the hotter the soldering iron, the faster you will have to move it. A sharp tip isn’t necessary, but a fine-point does work best.

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1. The same as was done on the top of the fuselage, cut the covering from the small hole in the top of the stabilizer for the aft dowel in the fin. Place the fin on the fuselage, “keying” the dowels in the bottom into the holes in the fuselage and the stab. Without using any glue, place the tri-stock fin braces on both sides of the fin. The same as was done with the bottom of the stab, use a fine-point, felt-tip pen to mark the outline of the fin braces onto the fuselage top and the fin so you will know where to cut off the covering.

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2. Working carefully without cutting into the balsa, use your heated soldering iron or a sharp hobby knife to cut the covering from the sides of the fin and the top of the fuselage.

Make sure you cut just inside the lines–approximately 1/32" [.5mm]–so that none of the balsa will be exposed when all the parts are joined.

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6. While you have some epoxy mixed, glue in both wing dowels.

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3. Use one of your paper towel squares moistened with denatured alcohol to wipe away the ink lines.

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7. Fit both hardwood servo rails in the slots in both sides of the fuselage. Position the forward rail as far forward as it will go and glue it into place, but do not glue in the aft rail until instructed to do so.

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4. Use 30-minute epoxy to glue the fin to the fuselage with T-pins to hold the fin in position. Before the epoxy hardens use a builder’s square to check to see if the fin is perpendicular to the stab. If necessary, use tape to pull the fin over to one side or the other to get the fin vertical. Allow the epoxy to harden before proceeding.

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8. Cut all but the bottom barbs off the tail skid so it looks like the one in the photo.

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5. Take out the T-pins. Glue the tri-stock fin braces into position with 30-minute epoxy, using T-pins to hold them in place.

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9. Cut the covering from the holes in the bottom of the back end of the fuselage and securely glue the tail skid into position.

Hook Up the Controls

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1. Cut one of the wire pushrods to a length of 23"

[580mm] by cutting off the non-threaded end. Cut the other pushrod to a length of 25" [630mm].

Note: If the silicone retainer on the clevis rubs against the inside of the fuselage sides, use a hobby knife to trim the inside of the fuselage as necessary for free, smooth movement.

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5. Install the rudder pushrod and mount the control horn the same way.

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2. Bend the end of one of the leftover pieces of pushrod wire.

This will be used later as a tool for looping the rubber bands around the former that secures the battery and radio hatches.

Refer to this photo for the following four steps.

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3. Thread one of the pushrods halfway into one of the clevises–this should take about fifteen full turns. Cut the mounting plate off one of the control horns. Slide a silicone retainer over the clevis. Then, connect the clevis to the third hole out from the bottom of the horn. Prepare the other pushrod the same way.

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6. Position the servos on the rails and slide them forward against the forward rail. Note the position of the splined output shaft on the servos (the elevator servo is facing aft and the rudder servo is facing forward). Space the rail approximately 3/32" [3mm] aft of the servos, and then securely glue the rail into position.

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7. Place the servo arms on the servos–if your servos came with a selection of servo arms, use ones that will not interfere with the other servo or the fuselage sides. For

Futaba ® and TOWER servos, use the six-arm servo arms and cut off the unused arms.

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4. Slide the longer pushrod into the elevator guide tube in the fuselage. Mark, then drill 3/32" [2.4mm] holes through the elevator for the two elevator horn mounting screws.

Mount the elevator horn with two 2 x 10mm screws and the plastic mounting plate.

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8. Position the left servo all the way over to the left side of the fuselage. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the rails for the servo mounting screws. Mount the servo with the screws that came with it.

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9. Move the rudder servo all the way over to the elevator servo. Drill 1/16" [1.6mm] holes through the rails and mount the rudder servo with the screws that came with it.

Mount the Receiver

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10. Center the servo arms as shown, holding the elevator pushrod so the elevator is centered. Mark the pushrod where it crosses the holes in the elevator servo arm.

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1. Connect the Velcro strips by overlapping them by

1-1/2" [40mm].

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11. Use pliers to make a 90° bend in the pushrod at the mark you made.

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12. Take the servo arm off the servo. Enlarge the holes in the servo arms with a servo horn drill (HCAR0698), a 5/64"

[2mm] drill bit or a hobby knife. Connect the pushrod to the outer hole in the elevator servo using a 90° pushrod connector. Cut the pushrod 1/16" [1.6mm] from the connector.

Then replace the servo arm on the servo.

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2. Glue the Velcro strips to the top of the battery holder.

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13. Connect the rudder pushrod to the rudder servo the same way.

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3. Use adhesive-backed Velcro strips (not included) to mount the receiver to the top of the battery tray. Connect the servos and the ESC to the receiver–the rudder goes into the receptacle numbered “1,” the elevators go into “2,” and the

ESC goes into “3.” If for some reason your receiver does not fit where shown, it could be mounted in the compartment with the ESC. To do this, the ESC will have to be mounted to the inside of the fuselage with double-sided foam mounting tape (not included). Wrap the receiver in 1/4"

[6mm] R/C foam rubber, place it into the compartment and

hold it in place by cutting the 1/8" x 3/8" x 8" [3 x 9.5 x 200mm] balsa stick to the correct length and gluing to the fuselage sides across the receiver to hold it in place. Note: For future reference, in most types of models mounting a receiver with

Velcro alone typically is not secure enough and may not provide enough protection from potentially damaging engine vibration. However, for a moderate-performance, 2-meter motor glider such as this, mounting the receiver with Velcro is acceptable.

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Check the ESC

ATTENTION!!!

Great care must always be used when working on electric-powered models. Unlike glow engines, electric motors can turn on unexpectedly if you aren’t paying attention and inadvertently activate the throttle. Follow these instructions to operate the motor correctly and be certain it is properly set up.

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4. After mounting the receiver, use hemostats or small needle-nose pliers to guide the antenna down and out the antenna tube in the fuselage.

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1. Until the radio system has been properly set up and you are familiar with the operation of your motor and ESC, the propeller should be removed from the model to prevent injury if the motor is inadvertently powered up and the propeller turns. Use the small hex wrench included with this model to loosen the set screw inside the propeller spinner and take off the propeller.

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5. Use the leftover pushrod wire hook you made before to loop the small rubber band around the hole and back around the tab in the former at the forward wing dowel.

Connect the rubber bands to the hook on the inside of the battery hatch.

The following steps will require charged batteries. If you haven’t yet done so, charge the motor battery and the batteries in your transmitter.

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2. Set the reversing function for the throttle control in your transmitter to reverse.

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3. Center the trims on the transmitter and lower the throttle stick all the way.

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4. Swing the radio hatch to the side so you can see the ESC.

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6. Tuck the wires and battery connectors into the compartment where the ESC is. Then, use the Velcro strips to mount the battery to the battery tray in the fuselage. Do not connect the motor battery until instructed to do so when setting up the radio system later.

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7. Fit the battery hatch into position.

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5. Take the servo arms off of the servos. With the propeller off the motor, connect the battery to the ESC (the battery does not have to be inside the model–you may just set it to the side).

Turn on the transmitter, then the receiver switch located on the side of the fuselage.

Check the Control Directions

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6. Observe the light on the ESC. It will be steadily glowing red indicating that it is receiving power. If the light is not red, make sure the motor battery is charged, that it is connected to the ESC and that the throttle servo function in your transmitter is reversed.

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7. At this time the ESC is in “safe” mode and will not allow the motor to turn until the system is “armed.” To arm the ESC advance the throttle stick all the way forward and hold it there until the red light on the ESC begins blinking. Lower the throttle stick until the red light goes out. Now the ESC is armed and the motor will turn (and the red light will illuminate) the next time the throttle is advanced.

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1. With the transmitter and receiver on and the trims centered, make sure the elevator and rudder servo arms are centered, or perpendicular to the servos. If necessary, remove the arms from the servos and reinstall them so they will be perpendicular to the servos. Install the screws that hold on the servo arms.

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2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, observe the rudder and elevator to see if they are still centered. If necessary, remove the clevises from the control horns and adjust the length of the pushrods and reconnect the clevises to the horns so the rudder and elevator are centered.

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8. Slowly advance the throttle and the motor will turn counterclockwise. Move the throttle stick to different positions and see that the motor will react accordingly.

When the throttle stick is returned to the “off” position the motor will abruptly stop. This is the “brake” function which allows the propeller to fold backward, thus reducing drag when the Vista EP ARF is gliding.

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9. The system will be turned off when the on/off switch on the model is turned off. When it’s time for the next flight the

“arming” procedure must be repeated. When you get to the flying field do not arm the motor until you are actually ready to launch the model.

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3. Make certain the elevator, rudder and motor respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If necessary, use the servo reversing function in your transmitter to reverse the direction of the elevator and rudder and exchange the wires connecting the ESC to the motor.

ATTENTION!!!

The receiver switch should never be on without the transmitter switch being on. Otherwise, the receiver could pick up errant signals, inadvertently causing the servos to move or the motor to activate. Always turn on the transmitter first and turn off the receiver first.

Set the Control Throws

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Use a ruler to measure and set the control throw of the elevator and rudder as indicated in the chart that follows. If your radio does not have dual rates, we recommend setting the throws at the low rate setting.

Note: The rudder throw is measured at the bottom of the rudder.

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate

ELEVATOR: 5/8" [16mm] up

RUDDER:

Low Rate

3/8" [9.5mm] up

5/8" [16mm] down 3/8" [9.5mm] down

1-1/2" [38mm] right 1" [25mm] right

1-1/2" [38mm] left 1" [25mm] left

This is where your model should balance for the first flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the

C.G. up to 3/8" [9.5mm] forward or 3/8" [9.5mm] back to change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G.

forward may improve wind penetration and stability, but the model will then fly and land a little faster. Moving the

C.G. aft makes the model lighter and more responsive to thermals, but could also cause it to become too difficult to control. In any case, start at the recommended balance

point and do not at any time balance the model outside the specified range.

IMPORTANT: The Vista EP ARF has been extensively flown and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies best. Flying your model at these throws will provide you with the greatest chance for successful first flights. If, after you have become accustomed to the way the Vista

EP ARF flies, you would like to change the throws to suit your taste that is fine. However, too much control throw could make the model difficult to control, so remember,

“more is not always better.”

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2. Hook the rubber band already on the radio hatch to the tab on the former and position the hatch. If you haven’t done so, remount the propeller and spinner back onto the motor shaft. Be certain to provide 1/16" [1.6mm] clearance between the back of the spinner and the front of the fuselage and tighten the set screw securely. Note: The flat spot on the motor shaft is for a different model with a different propeller. Disregard the flat spot on this model.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may determine whether or not your first flight will be successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT

PROCEDURE. A model that is not properly balanced will be unstable and possibly unflyable.

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3. Attach the wing to the fuselage with a couple of rubber bands. The model must be totally ready to fly with all of the components installed. Place the model on the Great Planes

CG Machine or lift it at the balance point you marked. You should be able to feel the tape lines with your fingers.

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition with all of the systems in place including the servos, switch, battery, propeller assembly and receiver.

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4. With the plane on the CG Machine or when lifting it with your fingers at the balance point, if the nose drops the model is nose-heavy and weight must be added to the tail to get it to balance. If the tail drops the model is tail-heavy and weight must be added in the nose to get it to balance.

Without actually sticking it on, rest the correct amount of

Great Planes Self-Adhesive Lead Weight on the nose or tail of the model to find out how much is required.

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5. After determining the amount of weight required, remove the model from the CG Machine and adhere the weight where needed–to the side of the fuselage under the tail or inside the fuselage behind the motor.

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1. If you will be using a Great Planes C.G. Machine to balance your model, set the rulers to 3-1/8" [80mm]. Place the plane on the Machine. If you will not be using the C.G.

Machine, use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to mark a line noting the C.G. on the bottom of the wing 3-1/8"

[80mm] back from the leading edge.

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6. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight, recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.

PREFLIGHT

Identify Your Model

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always have your name, address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events. Fill out the identification tag on the back cover page and place it on or inside your model.

Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt sleeves, ties, scarves, long hair or loose objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.

The motor could get hot! Do not touch it during or right after operation.

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

Charge the Batteries

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your radio control system to charge the batteries. You should always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by the radio manufacturer.

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety

Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or the Code that came with your AMA license.

General

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been proven to be airworthy by having been previously, successfully flight tested.

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your radio system state differently, the initial charge on new transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for 15 hours using the slow-charger that came with the radio

system. This will “condition” the batteries so that the next charge may be done using the fast-charger of your choice.

If the initial charge is done with a fast-charger, the batteries may not reach their full capacity and you may be flying with batteries that are only partially charged.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately

400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

Range Check

Check the operational range of your radio on the ground before the first flight of each day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed and the receiver and transmitter on, you should able to walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have control. Perform this same check with the

motor running at various speeds as well. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are doing. If the control surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This does not apply to models while being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

Radio Control

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an experienced helper.

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result in severe injury to yourself and others.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate motors.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be established in front of which all flying takes place with the other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.

Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

Use safety glasses when running motors.

Do not run the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand; the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.

Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the motor.

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5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance with the frequency sharing agreement

listed [in the complete AMA Safety Code].

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the model, other than the landing gear, intentionally touch

the ground except while landing.

CHECK LIST

Use this Check List to make sure you haven’t forgotten anything during the last few seconds of preparation.

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1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements provided in the manual.

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2.

Be certain the receiver is securely mounted.

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3. Make certain the receiver antenna is installed in the antenna tube in the fuselage and is fully extended.

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4. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction and the throws are set up according to the manual.

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5. Make sure all the servo arms are mounted to the servos with the screws included with your radio.

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6. Place your name, address, AMA number and telephone number on or inside your model. There is an identification tag on the back cover page.

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7. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before your first flight.

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8.

Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.

FIND A SAFE PLACE TO FLY

FLYING

Mount the Wing

Mount the wing to the fuselage with the twelve (12) #64 rubber bands that came with the model. Install them one at a time, crisscrossing the last two. Never use torn, cracked or oily rubber bands.

If the rubber bands you will be using are different from those recommended, consult an experienced modeler to make certain they are strong enough, and that you have used enough of them. If uncertain, force the front of the wing off of the wing saddle. There should be considerable resistance! If the wing can be forced from the fuselage without having to strain your hands, then there are probably not enough rubber bands.

IMPORTANT!!! Flying a model with too few rubber bands can be dangerous. The wing could actually detach from the fuselage resulting in a crash. If the model exhibits any tendencies that indicate there are not enough rubber bands, immediately land and closely inspect the model for damage.

If no damage is found, add more rubber bands.

The best place to fly any model is at an AMA chartered club field. Club fields are set up for R/C flying, making your outing safer and more enjoyable. We recommend that you join the

AMA and a local club so you can have a safe place to fly and have insurance to cover you in case of a flying accident. The

AMA address and telephone number are in the front of this manual.

Takeoff

IMPORTANT: If you are an inexperienced modeler we strongly urge you to seek the assistance of a competent, experienced

R/C pilot to check your model for airworthiness AND to teach you how to fly. No matter how stable or “forgiving” the Vista EP

ARF is, attempting to learn to fly on your own is dangerous and may result in destruction of your model or even injury to yourself and others. Therefore, find an instructor and fly only under his or her guidance and supervision until you have acquired the skills necessary for safe and fully controlled operation of your model.

If there is no club or R/C flying field in your area, find a suitable site that is clear of trees, telephone poles, buildings, towers, busy streets and other obstacles. Since you are not flying at a sanctioned AMA site, be aware that there may be others like yourself who could be flying nearby. If both of your models happen to be on the same frequency, interference will likely cause one or both of the models to crash. An acceptable minimum distance between flying models is five miles, so keep this in mind when searching for a flying site.

In addition to obstacles, it is important to be aware of people who may wander into the area once you begin flying. At AMA club flying sites it is a severe rule infraction to fly over others and this is a good practice if flying elsewhere. R/C models tend to attract onlookers who may pose two main problems;

First is the danger of actually crashing your model into a person, causing injury. Second is the distraction by those who ask you questions while you are trying to concentrate on flying. To minimize or avoid this problem, have an assistant standing by who can spot people who wander into your flying site (so you can avoid flying over them) and who can perform

“crowd control” if people start to gather.

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The Vista EP ARF may be self-launched by the pilot, but if you are a beginner it will be easier to have an assistant launch the Vista EP ARF for you. Hold the fuselage under the wing and turn on the transmitter, then the receiver.

Before flying any model, always check to be certain that all

the controls are operating and in the correct direction by moving the control sticks on the transmitter and observing their response. Once you have confirmed that the controls are operating correctly, point the nose into the

wind and apply full power. Toss the model into the air at a nose-level or slightly nose-up attitude. The model should climb gently, but be ready on the controls to keep the wings level and model on a straight-out, slightly nose-up ascent.

Once at a comfortable altitude, use rudder and elevator trim as necessary to get the Vista EP ARF to fly straight-andlevel when the control sticks are neutral. When the model

has reached enough altitude (50 to 100 feet [15 to 30m]) make the first turn away from yourself and the takeoff area.

Continue to control the model, keeping it on the intended flight path while climbing at a comfortable rate.

usually only one attempt will be possible. To avoid motoroff “dead-stick” landings, monitor motor performance and run time and bring the model in for a landing when you notice motor performance significantly dropping. Align the plane with the landing zone and always land into the wind.

Increase or decrease motor power as necessary to maintain your descent. When the model is a foot or two

[.5m] from the ground, increasingly apply “up” elevator to slow the model without allowing it to climb. “Skim” the ground until flying speed is lost and the model finally touches down as gently as possible. It will probably skid for several feet, so a grassy landing area is preferred.

Congratulations! You’ve just made your first flight. Remove the battery and, if the motor has been running for a while and is still warm, allow it to cool before installing a charged battery and making another flight.

Flight

Continue to fly the model in the “race track” pattern, making the downwind turn toward you and the upwind turn away from you. If you are experienced enough and can control the model in different orientations, execute figure eights turning the model toward you in the middle of the

“racetrack.” Throttle back or cut power altogether when you get to an altitude where the Vista EP ARF will be able to glide for a while. Add power when necessary to regain altitude. Once you become an experienced pilot, you will learn how to search for rising air currents where motor power will no longer be necessary to remain aloft for ten, twenty, thirty minutes or more. Total run time under fullpower should be approximately four to five minutes, so even without the assistance of rising air currents, the Vista EP

ARF should be able to remain aloft for at least six minutes.

It will be time to land when either the motor shuts off and the Vista EP ARF is no longer able to remain aloft, or when motor power has significantly decreased, signaling that the motor is about to shut off.

One final note about flying your Vista EP ARF. Have a goal or a flight plan in mind for each flight. Rather than taking to the air without knowing what you are going to do, take a minute to think about the next flight–whether it’s searching for rising air currents (thermals) or learning how to control the model in different orientations. A little planning ahead should keep you from executing an impulsive maneuver you weren’t actually ready for possibly resulting in a crash.

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Landing

Most ESCs, including the supplied Great Planes ESC, feature BEC (battery elimination circuitry) which distributes power from the motor battery to both the motor and the onboard radio gear, thus eliminating the requirement for an additional battery typically needed to power the radio gear.

When the motor battery gets too low, the BEC will automatically discontinue power to the motor so there will be enough power to operate the radio and maintain control of the model. When the motor cuts off, immediately lower the throttle stick and set up a landing approach that will be into the wind. Then, glide the model in for a landing. Most of the time (but not always) you will be able to advance the throttle and get one last burst of power in case the model is too far away to reach the landing area or if another landing attempt is required altogether.

Intentionally waiting to land until after the motor has quit is not a problem, but should be performed only by experienced modelers who are able to plan well because

Cut out or copy the identification tag and put it on or inside your model.