Bernina Artista 640 User manual

Safety Instructions 1
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS !
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always
be followed, including the following:
Read all instructions before using this sewing computer. When the sewing
computer is not in use, it should be disconnected from the electricity supply
by removing the plug from the outlet.
DANGER
To reduce the risk of electrical shock:
1. An appliance should never be left
unattended when plugged in.
2. Always unplug this sewing computer from
the electrical outlet immediately after
using and before cleaning.
WARNING
To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock
or injury to persons:
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close
attention is necessary when this sewing
computer is used by or near children and
infirm persons.
2. Use this sewing computer only for its
intended use as described in this manual.
Use only attachments recommended by
the manufacturer as contained in this
manual.
3. Never operate this sewing computer if:
• it has a damaged cord or plug,
• it is not working properly
• it has been dropped or damaged,
• it has fallen into water
Return the sewing computer to the
nearest authorized BERNINA dealer or
service center for examination, repair,
electrical or mechanical adjustment.
4. Never operate the sewing computer with
any air vents blocked. Keep ventilation
openings of the sewing computer and
foot controller free from accumulation of
lint, dust and fabric remnants and the like.
5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts.
Special care is required around the sewing
needle.
6. Always use the BERNINA original stitch
plate. The wrong plate can cause needle
breakage.
7. Do not use bent needles.
8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching,
which may deflect the needle, causing it
to break.
9. Turn power switch to «0» (off) when
making any adjustments in the needle
area, such as threading or changing the
needle, threading the bobbin or changing
the presser foot etc.
10. Always unplug the sewing computer from
the electrical outlet when removing
covers, lubricating or when making any
other user servicing adjustments
mentioned in this instruction manual.
11. Never drop or insert any object into any
openings on the sewing computer.
12. Do not use the sewing computer
outdoors.
13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray)
products are being used or where oxygen
is being administered.
14. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off
(«0») position then remove the plug from
the outlet.
15. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord,
instead, grasp the plug before pulling.
16. No responsibility will be taken on behalf
of BERNINA for any possible damage as
the result of misuse of the sewing
computer.
17. Under no circumstances should the
sewing computer be left unattended
when using the embroidery module.
18. This sewing computer is provided with
double insulation (except USA / Canada).
Use only identical replacement parts. See
instructions for servicing of doubleinsulated machines.
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SERVICING
DOUBLEINSULATED
PRODUCTS
In a double-insulated product, two systems of
insulation are provided instead of grounding.
No grounding means is provided on a doubleinsulated product nor should a means for
grounding be added to the product. Servicing
a double-insulated product requires extreme
care and knowledge of the system and should
only be done by qualified service personnel.
Replacement parts for a double-insulated
product must be identical to those parts in the
product. A double insulated product is
marked with the words «DOUBLE
INSULATION» or «DOUBLE INSULATED».
The symbol
product.
may also be marked on the
This sewing and embroidery computer is
intended for household use only.
SAVE THESE
INSTRUCTIONS!
2
Dear artista Customer,
BERNINA continues the long-standing tradition of the famous artista
family with the model range artista 630 and 640.
The name "artista" stands for something outstanding, artistic - an
inspiring element.
With the new artista generation we would like to enable you to
become an artist by giving you everything a sewing and embroidery
system offers to allow your creativity to blossom and grow.
The modern design and high functionality of the artista 630 and
640 guarantee you sewing satisfaction, ease of use and frustrationfree sewing enjoyment.
The artista 630 is the best sewing computer on the world market
with outstanding stitch quality, but you also have the option of
embroidery. The artista 640, with the Bernina rotary hook system,
offers endless possibilities in embroidery. Bernina's exclusive
embroidery rescaling gives you the freedom and control you need
and deserve.
Both models have a beautiful color screen which is located in the
center of the machine-right where you need it-and the user interface
is extremely intuitive and easy to use.
For artista customers we recommend the optional BERNINA
Embroidery Software, the Bernina Stitch Regulator (BSR) and the
wonderful variety of accessories available at your local Bernina
dealer.
We wish you lots of fun with our newest additions in the wonderful
line of Bernina machines.
H.P. Ueltschi
President
BERNINA Sewing Machine Manufacturers
BERNINA
CH-8266 Steckborn
www.bernina.com
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN
Contents 3
Safety Instructions
1
Your Sewing Computer
4 - 20
Screen / Function Buttons
Applications of Practical and
Decorative Stiches
Alphabets
Buttonholes
Quilting
21 - 33
Personal Program
Saving and Deleting Stitches and
Stitch Combinations
Setup Program
Sewing and Sewing Computer Support
84 - 86
87 - 91
92 - 101
102 - 108
Preparing for Embroidery /
Important Information
Working on Motifs and Embroidering
Embroidery Support
Peripherals and Accessories
Glossary
Summary Stitches and motivs
Index
109
120
148
154
157
159
175
34
59
62
77
-
-
58
61
76
83
119
147
153
156
158
174
177
Key to Signs
27
Caution!
Very important!
Risk of damage!
28
Additional information on the
corresponding subject you will
find on the relevant page.
!
Please refer to the safety
instructions! Risk of injury!
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Supplementary information!
Helpful tips!
4 Accessories
Accessories*
Carrier Bag
• protects from dust and dirt
• this bag can be used to transport the
sewing computer. The accessories can be
stored in the corresponding compartments
Accessories
The following accessories are arranged in the
styrofoam packing:
• foot control
• instruction manual
• power cable
• warranty card
• FHS presser foot lifter (Free Hand System)
• slide-on table
• seam guide for slide-on table
• Instructional / Presentation CD-ROM
• carrier bag
• Touch Screen Stylo
*can vary from country to country
Accessory Box
D
E
F
G
J
A
H
B
C
Removing the Accessory Box
• press catch A on the top of the box
• remove box to the rear
Free Standing Accessory Box
• on the back side of the box, pull both feet
out until they click into place
• stand box in chosen position
Storing Accessories
Standard accessories are supplied in a plastic
bag. The box is equipped with one small and
one large drawer (B and C) as well as compartments for bobbin holders D and presser
feet E. (Additional compartments and drawers
are available as optional extras.)
• push the bobbins into the compartments
provided
• to remove a bobbin, press the
compartment holder F lightly
• insert the presser feet into the slot
• Buttonhole foot with slide No. 3A can be
stored in the left compartment G
• the needle selection box can be stored in
compartment H
Attaching the Accessory Box to the
Sewing Computer
• close the doors
• push feet back into position
• attach the box to the sewing computer
(catch A must engage); inserting the
presser foot lifter into the opening J
Caution:
First lower the presser foot
lifter!
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Accessories 5
Presser Feet*
1C
Reverse pattern foot
Practical and decorative
stitches
2A
Overlock foot
Overlock seams, hems,
clean finishing edges,
narrow satin stitch
3C
Buttonhole foot
Buttonholes
3A
Automatic
Buttonhole foot with
slide
Buttonholes on smooth
fabrics, darning
4
Zipper foot
Sewing in zippers
5
Blindstitch foot
Blind hems,
edge stitching
9
Darning foot
Used with the feed dog
in a lowered position
for darning,
monograms, and
freehand embroidery
20C
Open embroidery
foot
Embroidery, appliqué,
satin stitch seams,
monograms
BERNINA Specialty Presser Feet
The standard selection of presser feet covers most normal sewing requirements, but we
recommend the use of BERNINA specialty presser feet for specific sewing tasks such as quilting,
heirloom sewing, home decorating, tailoring, etc.
They are available from your BERNINA dealer.
8
Jeans foot
Straight stitching in
thick, firm fabrics
Standard Accessories*
• four bobbins
(+ one in bobbin case)
• selection of 130/705 H needles
• seam ripper
• small screwdriver
• angular Torx key
• lint brush
• seam guide
• foam pad
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50
Walking foot
For fabrics which stick or tend to
slip and for quilting
•
•
•
•
height compensating tool
three spool discs
oiler
compensation plate for sewing
buttonholes
*can vary from country to country
6 Details
Details artista 640
20
11
10
21
19
18
32
22
23
16
24
17
9
25
33
15
31 30 29 28 27
26
14
13
7
12
8
6
5
4
3
2
1
34
Front view
35
36
37
38
39
40
Back view
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Details 7
41
42
43
44
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
Bobbin cover
Stitch plate
Attachment base for special accessories
Darning hoop connection
Presser foot
Needle clamp
Thread guide
Needle threader
Thread take-up cover
Thread path
Thread take-up
Quick reverse button
Automatic thread cutter
Start / Stop - button
15
16
17
18
19
20
Slide speed control
Needle stop up/down button
Pattern end button
Needle position buttons
Screen
Bobbin winder with on/off switch and
thread cutter
Practical stitch button
Decorative stitch button
Alphabet button
Buttonhole button
Quilt stitches button
Sewing mode/Embroidery mode button
Personal program button
45
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
Side view left
36
37
38
39
40
41
Tutorial button (only in embroidery mode)
Setup button
«clr» (clear) button
Pattern begin button
Stitch width knob
Stitch length knob
FHS (Free Hand System) connection
Thread guide (while winding the bobbin
when sewing and embroidering)
Horizontal spool pin
Carrying handle
Rear thread guide
CFL (Cool Fluorescent Light) sewing light
Slide-on table socket
Bobbin pre-tension
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
51
52
53
54
Presser foot pressure dial
Presser foot lifter
Thread cutter on head frame
Magnifying glass holder
Handwheel
Spool pin (vertical, collapsible)
Power switch on/off («0»)
Power plug socket
USB connection
PC connection
Embroidery module connection
Foot control socket
Drop feed dog
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
46
50
51
47
48
49
52
53
54
Side view right
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8 Operating Instructions
Power Cable
The Power Cable
• plug A into sewing computer
• plug B into wall socket
Important!
(USA/Canada only):
The sewing computer has a
polarized plug (one blade
wider than the other). To
reduce the risk of electrical
shock, this plug is intended to
fit in a polarized outlet only
one way. If the plug does not
fit fully in the outlet, reverse
the plug. If it still does not fit,
contact a qualified electrician
to install the proper outlet. do
not modify the plug in any
way!
Foot Control Cable
• plug C into sewing computer
A
C
B
Foot Control
Sewing Speed
• control the sewing speed by depressing the
foot control
• raise or lower the needle by tapping on the
foot control with your heel
B
Cable Tidy
• wind the cable around the spool
• insert the plug into A
When Sewing
• unwind the cable to the desired length and
slip into B or C
Important!
(USA/Canada only):
Use only foot controller type
LV1 with sewing computer
model artista 640.
Power Switch
The switch is on the handwheel side of
the sewing computer
I the sewing computer is switched on («I»)
0 the sewing computer is switched off («0»)
The sewing light is switched on and off with
the power switch.
!
Refer to the
safety instructions!
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A
C
Operating Instructions 9
Slide-on Table
Slide-on Table
• the slide-on table increases the sewing
surface
• free arm for large tubular items such as
pant legs and waistbands
To Attach
• raise the needle and presser foot
• place the table to the right over the free
arm and press firmly so that it engages on
the fixing cam
To Remove
• raise needle and presser foot
• pull the table out of the fixing cam
• remove to the left
Seam Guide
• insert into the groove (underside of table)
from left or right
• it can be adjusted over the whole width of
the table
Scale
• «0» corresponds to the center needle
position
Free Hand System (FHS) Presser Foot Lifter
Presser Foot Lifter
• the FHS raises and lowers the presser foot
• push to the right
• the presser foot is raised
• the feed dog is lowered simultaneously
• the feed dog is raised as soon as the first
stitch is sewn
Attaching the Presser Foot Lifter
• insert into the opening; you should be able
to operate the FHS with your knee in your
normal sitting position
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Your dealer can adjust the FHS if
necessary.
10 Operating Instructions
Winding the Bobbin
Winding the Bobbin
• turn power switch to «I» (on)
• place empty bobbin on spindle
Threading the Bobbin
• place thread on spool pin
• attach appropriate spool disc - diameter of
thread spool determines disc size
• following the direction of the arrow, take
thread through the rear guide and around
the pre-tension stud
• wind the thread two to three times around
the empty bobbin and cut off any excess
thread on the thread cutter
• press the engaging lever against the bobbin
• the bobbin winder works automatically
• the winding speed can be adjusted with
the «+» or «-» in the opened screen or by
turning the stitch width knob
• the motor will stop automatically when the
bobbin is full
• remove the bobbin
Thread Cutter
• cut the thread with the thread cutter
Winding the Bobbin While Sewing or
Embroidering
• place thread spool on vertical spool then,
following the direction of the arrow, take
thread through the thread guide and
around the pre-tension stud
• follow the instructions as described above
for the next steps of winding the bobbin
Bobbin Case
A
To Remove the Bobbin Case
• raise the needle
• turn power switch to «0» (off)
• open the bobbin cover
• grasp the latch of the bobbin case
• remove case
To Insert the Bobbin Case
• hold the bobbin case latch
• the opening on the bobbin case should be
at the top
• insert bobbin case so that it engages
• close the bobbin cover
!
Refer to the
safety instructions!
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Bobbin Thread Cutter
• insert the bobbin case
• take the thread over cutter A and cut the
thread
The bobbin thread does not
have to be brought up as the
loose end is just the right length
to start sewing.
Operating Instructions 11
Inserting the Bobbin
Inserting the Bobbin
Insert the bobbin so that the thread winds
clockwise.
Pulling the Thread Under the Spring
Pull the thread to the left under the spring
until it lies in the T-shaped slit at the end of
the spring.
Clockwise Turning of the Bobbin
The bobbin must turn clockwise.
Threading the Upper Thread
C
A
B
D
Attaching the Thread Spool
• raise the needle and presser foot
• turn the power switch to «0» (off)
• attach the foam pad
• place spool on pin (thread winds clockwise)
• attach the appropriate spool disc diameter of spool determines disc size.
There must be no clearance between the
disc and the spool
• take thread through rear guide A
• then into slit of upper thread tension
E
Down
• pull thread down to the right of the takeup cover to B
Up
• take thread up to the left of the cover to C
in the direction of the arrow, placing it in
the take-up lever
!
Refer to the
safety instructions!
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Down
• take thread down and through guides D
and E
12 Operating Instructions
Needle Threader
A
B
Lever Down and Thread in Hook
• raise the needle
• lower the presser foot
• press lever A down and simultaneously
guide the thread around hook B to the
right of the needle
Thread in Front of Needle
• put the thread from the front into the
guide until it catches in the hook
Release the Lever and Thread
• let go of lever A and thread
• pull the thread loop through the needle
eye
Special needles such as double
and triple needles must be
threaded by hand
The bobbin thread must be
brought up through the stitch
plate for certain types of work.
The length of thread is sufficient
for most normal work if the lower
thread cutter has been used.
Bringing up the Lower Thread
• hold the upper thread
• sew one stitch by tapping on the foot
control twice
• pull the upper thread to bring the lower
thread up through the stitch plate hole
• take both threads through the slit on the
presser foot to the back
• pull threads over the head frame cutter
Thread Cutter
Thread Cutter on Head Frame
• pull both threads from front to back over
the cutter
• the threads release automatically as soon
as the first stitch is sewn
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Operating Instructions 13
Changing the Needle
Removing the Needle
• raise the needle
• turn power switch to «0» (off)
• lower the presser foot
• loosen the needle clamp screw
• pull the needle down to remove
Inserting the Needle
• flat side of needle to the back
• insert the needle as far as it will go
• tighten the needle clamp screw
!
Refer to the
safety instructions!
Supplementary Spool Pin
A
Collapsible Vertical Spool Pin
• found on the back of the sewing computer
behind the handwheel
• essential aid for sewing with more than one
thread, i.e. double needle work
• raise the pin until it clicks into its vertical
position
• add the foam pad A for stability, this
prevents the thread from getting caught on
the spool pin
CFL Sewing Light (CFL = Cool Fluorescent Light)
Contrary to an ordinary bulb, the CFL sewing
light has a better illumination and a longer
life.
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Caution:
Please note that a defective
CFL sewing light must ONLY
be replaced by an authorized
technician. The sewing
computer must be brought to
an authorized BERNINA
dealer!
14 Operating instructions
Threading the Double Needle
Threading the First Thread
• place thread spool on horizontal spool pin
and thread
• guide the thread to the front in the slit and
past the tension disc A on the right side
• thread sewing computer as usual and
thread the right needle
A
Threading the Second Thread
• place thread spool on the additional spool
pin and thread
• guide the thread to the front in the slit and
past the tension disc A on the left side
• thread the left needle
• threads must not be twisted together
A
Threading the Triple Needle
• two thread spools and one full bobbin are
needed
• place one thread spool on horizontal spool
pin
• place second thread spool and the bobbin,
separated by a spool disc, on additional
spool pin (both spools have to turn in the
same direction)
• thread as usual by guiding two threads on
the left side of the tension disc A and one
thread on the right side of the disc
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When using the supplementary
spool pin (vertical) always attach
the foam pad (prevents the
thread from getting caught on
the spool pin)
By using the Supplementary
thread guide (special
accessories), thread winds off
the spool much easier.
Operating instructions 15
Important Facts About Thread and Needles
With the right combination of thread and needle optimum sewing results are
achieved.
Thread
Needle, Thread and Fabric
The thread is chosen according to use. For a
perfect sewing result, thread and fabric quality
play an important role. It is recommended to
use quality brands.
Care must be taken when choosing needle
and thread.
Cotton Thread
• cotton thread has the advantage of a
natural fiber and therefore is especially
suitable for sewing cotton fabrics
• if cotton thread is mercerized it will have a
slight sheen
The correct needle size does not only depend
on the chosen thread, but also has to be wellsuited to the fabric used. The fabric weight
determines the thread weight and needle size
and point form.
Polyester Thread
• polyester thread is suitable for practically all
sewing needs
• it has a high tensile strength and is
particularly colorfast
• polyester thread is more flexible and is
recommended where a strong and elastic
seam is required
The following are the guidelines:
Needle No.
fine fabrics:
fine thread (darning thread,
embroidery thread)
70–75
mediumweight fabrics:
normal thread
80–90
heavyweight fabrics:
heavier thread
100, 110, 120
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16 Operating Instructions
Needle/Thread Combination
In order to check the needle/thread compatibility, the correct size thread must correspond with the correct size needle.
Correct Needle/Thread
Combination
When sewing, the thread should travel
smoothly down the long groove on the front
of the needle.
Too Thin Thread or too Thick Needle
The thread has too much clearance in the
groove. Skipped stitches and damage to the
thread can occur.
Needle Summary
BERNINA requires needle system
130/705 H. This system number refers to
shank shape as well as to length and form of
the needle point.
Checking the Needle Condition
The needle condition should be checked and
the needle replaced regularly. A defective
needle not only damages the fabric but also
the sewing computer.
The following are the guidelines: replace
needle when starting a new sewing project or
as required.
130/705 H S
70
Shank diameter
= 0.7 mm
(needle size)
Needle point
e.g. medium
ball point
Needle scarf
Flat shank
Shank length
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Too Thick Thread or too Fine Needle
The thread rubs on the edges of the groove
and can get jammed. This can break the
thread.
Operating Instructions 17
Needle Summary
Many materials are easier to sew if the appropriate needle is used.
Type of needle
Model
Suitable for
Needle size
60–100
Normal point, slightly rounded
For nearly all natural and
synthetic fabrics (woven and
knitted)
Jersey, stretch fabrics
70–90
Natural and synthetic leather and
plastic
90–100
Heavyweight fabrics such as denim,
canvas, overalls
80–110
Micro fiber fabrics and silk
60–90
Straight and topstitching
75–90
Embroidery on all natural and
synthetic fabrics
75–90
Sewing with metallic threads
75-90
Topstitching with thick thread
80–100
Hemstitching
100–120
Double wing
needle
130/705 H-ZWI-HO
Special effects with hemstitch
embroidery
100
Double needle
130/705 H-ZWI
Visible hems in stretch fabrics,
pintucks, decorative sewing
70–100
Decorative sewing
80
Universal
130/705 H
Jersey/Stretch
130/705 H-S
130/705 H-SES
130/705 H-SUK
Leather
130/705 H-LL
130/705 H-LR
Ball point
Cutting point
Jeans
130/705 H-J
Very fine point
Microtex
130/705 H-M
Especially fine point
Quilting
130/705 H-Q
Fine point
Embroidery
130/705 H-E
Large eye, slight ball point
Metafil
130/705 H-MET
Large eye
Cordonnet
130/705 H-N
Small ball point, long eye
Wing needle
130/705 HO
Wide needle (wing)
Needle distance: 1.0 / 1.6 / 2.0 / 2.5 /
3.0 / 4.0 / 6.0 / 8.0
Triple needle
130/705 H-DRI
Needle distance 3.0
Special needles are available at your BERNINA dealer.
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18 Operating Instructions
Presser Foot Pressure
Dial on Head Frame
• the pressure is adjusted at the left side of
the head frame
• the original setting (47) will be indicated
on the screen in blue
• an adjusted presser foot pressure will be
indicated by a red blinking number and a
red bar
• the original setting (47) will be indicated in
black alternately with the adjusted setting
• the original setting is displayed by a
blinking black line on the right side of the
red bar
Standard Pressure
• for normal sewing work
Increased Pressure
• for firm fabrics
• improves fabric feed
Reduced Pressure
• for jerseys and loose knits
• to prevent fabric from stretching
• adjust pressure so that the fabric still feeds
correctly
Changing the Presser Foot
Changing the Presser Foot
• raise the needle and presser foot
• turn power switch to «0» (off)
!
Raising the Lever
• raise the clamping lever
• remove the presser foot
Refer to the
safety instructions!
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Attaching the Presser Foot
• guide the foot upwards over the cone
• press the clamping lever down
Operating instructions 19
Stitch Plate
A
A
9mm (mm measurements)
Stitch Plate Markings
• the stitch plates are marked with vertical
lines in millimeters or inches
• mm measurements are at the front
• inch measurements are at the back
• the measurements correspond to the
distance from the needle to the line
9mm (inch measurements)
• needle insertion point is position 0 (center
needle position)
• the measurements are marked to the right
and left
• the lines help to guide the fabric e.g. for
sewing seams and for topstitching
• the horizontal markings are helpful for
sewing corners and buttonholes, etc.
A
5,5 mm (inch or mm, optional)
Removing the Stitch Plate
• turn power switch off («0»)
• raise the presser foot and needle
• lower feed dog
• press the stitch plate down at the back
right corner until it flips up
• remove the stitch plate
Replacing the Stitch Plate
• place the stitch plate over the opening A
and press down until it clicks into place
Feed Dog
Button flush with housing = feed dog is raised (sewing position)
Button depressed = feed dog is lowered (darning position)
• for freehand sewing (darning, freehand embroidery, freehand quilting)
• for embroidery with the embroidery module
Button on handwheel side
Feed Dog and Fabric Feed
Feed Dog and Stitch Length
With each stitch the feed dog moves forward
by one step. The length of this step is
determined by the stitch length selected.
With an extremely short stitch length, the
steps are also very short. The fabric moves
under the foot quite slowly, even at full
Let the fabric feed evenly!
Pulling, pushing or holding back the fabric will result in uneven stitches
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sewing speed. Buttonholes, satin stitch and
decorative stitches are all sewn with a very
short stitch length.
20 Operating instructions
Feed Dog and Fabric Feed with Height Compensating Tool
The feed dog works accurately when the foot
is level.
If the foot is at an angle, e.g. when sewing
over thick to thin or vice-versa, the feed dog
cannot grip and feed the fabric and the fabric
might jam.
Uneven layers
To solve this problem, place one, two or three
compensating plates as required behind the
needle under the presser foot to level it.
To correct the height in front of the foot,
place one or more plates to the right of the
foot close to the needle. Sew until the foot is
level again and remove the plates.
Feed Dog and Sewing Corners
The space between the two rows of feed
dogs is relatively large due to the width of
the stitch plate hole.
When sewing corners only a small section of
the fabric is actually on the feed dog, so that
it cannot grip the fabric well.
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN
Correct this by placing one or more compensating plates as close as possible to the edge
of the fabric.
Displays on Screen 21
Screen
The artista 640 is operated with a combination of external buttons and knobs and a touch
screen.
Welcome Screen
• switch sewing computer on: power switch to «I» (on)
• Welcome screen appears for a few seconds, as long as text was entered in the Setup
Program. Without text the Practical Stitch screen appears directly
• the start of the Welcome screen can be canceled by touching the screen and the Practical
Stitch Screen appears
• can be personalized in the Setup Program
A
B
C
D
Practical Stitch Screen
After the Welcome, the Practical Stitch
(Menu) appears automatically on the screen,
which shows:
E
F
G
Q
H
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
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A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
K
L
M
N
O
P
Q
Stitch width (basic setting always visible)
Needle Position (11 possibilities)
Selected, active stitch and number
Single Mode / Combi Mode
Up/down scroll arrows
Stitch length (basic setting always visible)
Presser Foot Indicator
Presser Foot Pressure Indicator
Picture of selected, active stitch and
number (Stitch Altering Area)
External functions
Setup Program
Tutorial (only for embroidery)
Personal Program
Functions
Stitch Selection by Number
Main category buttons
22 Displays on Screen
Stitch Selection – Stitch Display – Functions
Stitch Selection
• touch the stitch of your choice
• the stitch is highlighted in blue
• every stitch in the Stitch Altering Area (SAA) is displayed with its
number
Display of Selected Stitch
• a graphic of the selected stitch
is visible in the left portion of
the screen
• changes to stitches can be
seen on screen
Altering the Stitch Width
• turn the upper knob
The altered stitch width is shown in
two different ways:
• stitch width bar 0-9 is displayed
as blue area
• altered width is visible on stitch
width bar (dark blue bar), in
addition the actual setting is
shown (blue number left)
Altering the Stitch Length
• turn the lower knob
The altered stitch length is shown in
two different ways:
• stitch length bar 0-5 is displayed
as blue area
• altered length is visible on stitch
length bar (dark blue bar), in
addition the actual setting is
shown (blue number on top)
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• the basic setting is always visible when a
change has been made, e.g. 3.0mm (black
bar)
• the stitch width can be altered from 0mm
to 9mm
• the basic setting is always visible when a
change has been made, e.g. 1.5mm (black
bar)
• stitch length can be altered from 0mm to
5mm on most stitches
Displays on Screen 23
Presser Foot Indicator
• the recommended presser foot
for the selected stitch is
displayed by number
• an arrow pointing down
indicates that the presser foot
is still raised
Selecting Functions
• touch the function of your
choice
• the selected function is
highlighted in blue (a number
of different functions can be
selected simultaneously)
28
33
Lowered Feed Dog
• if the feed dog is lowered this
blinking symbol appears
underneath the Presser Foot
Indicator
Temporary Altered Stitch Memory
Stitch length, stitch width, needle position,
etc. are automatically saved. When the sewing
computer is turned off («0») or the «clr»
(clear) button is pressed, the changes are
deleted.
37
37
Saving Altered Settings Permanently
The basic settings programmed by BERNINA
can be changed and stored in the SAA. They
will stay saved even after the sewing
computer is turned off («0»). The basic
settings are always visible.
Changing Settings
• select stitch (e.g. zig-zag)
• alter the stitch width and stitch length with
the external knobs
• alter the needle position with the external
buttons
• touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)
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24 Displays on Screen
Saving Changes
• a special screen opens
• touch «Save Settings» = all changes are
saved
• touch «Reset Settings» to return to basic
settings
• touch «ESC» and the screen closes without
anything being saved or altered
Stitch Selection
Stitches can be selected using one of the two
methods listed below.
Direct Selection by Scrolling up/down
Within a Stitch Category
• touch the arrow (down)
• the top row disappears
• the next two rows move up
• a new row appears at the bottom
Stitch Selection by Number
• touch the function «0–9»
• the screen changes to a numeric pad
• touch numbers to select the stitch of your
choice
• the number of the selected stitch appears
in the upper screen
• touch the arrow (up)
• the first row of stitches appears again
• the Scroll function (up/down) is used to
find and view all the sewing computer’s
stitches
Correcting Mistakes
• to correct mistakes or deselect, touch
function top right (arrow)
• the number is deleted from right to left
• touch the broad field above the numeric
pad
• the entire number is deleted
• enter new number
Confirm Number and Go to Next Screen
• touch «OK» to confirm
• the selected stitch is displayed in the Stitch
Altering Area
• touch «ESC»
• the screen displays the selected stitch
• the selected stitch is active (highlighted in
blue)
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If an unavailable number is
entered, it will be indicated with
three question marks in the field
above the numeric pad.
Back to Previous Screen
• do not confirm the entered stitch number
with «OK»
• touch «ESC» or «0-9»
• the previous screen appears
• the stitch selected by number will be
ignored
Displays on Screen 25
Simple Menu Selection
Main Category Buttons
• press a button to select the desired menu
• the corresponding stitch category is
selected immediately
• the stitches or the stitch summary appear
on the screen
Practical Stitches
Practical Stitch Button
• the Practical Stitch menu appears
• 9 practical stitches appear on the screen
• use arrows to scroll for viewing additional
stitches
Decorative Stitch Button
•
•
•
•
Alphabet Button
• the Alphabet menu appears on the screen
• touch to select the alphabet of your choice
Decorative Stitches
the Decorative Stitch menu appears
the 6 categories appear on screen
touch to select the desired stitch group
the selected stitch group appears
Alphabets
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26 Displays on Screen
Buttonholes
Buttonhole Button
• the Buttonhole screen appears
• touch to select
• by scrolling the straight stitch eyelet and
hand-look buttonhole will be visible
Quilt Stitch Button
• the Quilt Stitch screen appears
• 9 quilt stitches are visible on screen
• use arrows to scroll for additional stitches
Quilting
Embroidery Mode / Sewing Mode
Embroidery Mode / Sewing
Mode Button
• change between Embroidery and Sewing
Mode and vice versa
Personal Program Button
• Personal screen appears (customized
settings)
Personal Program
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Displays on Screen 27
Tutorial for Embroidery
Tutorial Button
• the Selection menu (menu summary)
appears
• 9 menus for advice on embroidery are
available on the screen
Can only be selected
when embroidering
Setup Program
Setup Program
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• options appear
• use Setup to customize your sewing
computer’s settings
• customized settings can be reprogrammed
at any time or reset to BERNINA factory
settings
28 Displays on Screen
External Function Buttons
Altering Needle Position
• left button = needle to the left
• right button = needle to the right
• keep button pressed to quickly change
needle positions
• total of 11 needle positions: 5 left, 5 right
and 1 center
Pattern End
• press the Pattern End button
• a stop symbol in the right part of the
screen indicates that the function was
activated
• sewing computer stops at the end of the
active single pattern or the active pattern of
a combination
Slide Speed Control
• the motor speed can be freely adjusted
with the slide
Needle Up/Down
• basic setting needle stop up
• touch the symbol briefly:
• the needle is raised or lowered (as
when tapping on the foot control
with your heel)
• touch the symbol longer:
• the needle is lowered
• the arrow on the screen points down
• the sewing computer stops with the
needle down
• touch the symbol again (also longer):
• the needle is raised
• the arrow on the screen points up
• the sewing computer stops with the
needle up
Quick Reverse Button on Head Frame
• press the Quick Reverse button on head
frame
• secure the seam beginning and end: sews
in reverse as long as button is depressed
• used to program buttonhole length
• used to program darning length
• used to designate end of stitching in
straight stitch Securing stitch No. 5
• securing with Quilters Securing Program
No. 324
Automatic Thread Cutter
• press external button
• upper and bobbin thread are cut
automatically
Start-Stop Button
• starts and stops the sewing computer when
operating it without foot control
• starts and stops the sewing/ embroidery
computer in the embroidery mode with
attached embroidery module
• starts and stops the BSR function (optional)
when BSR foot is attached and plugged in
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External Functions 29
General Functions
The following functions are found on various
screens and programs of the artista 640
sewing computer.
Single Mode
• the Single Mode is always
active (green) when turning on
the sewing computer and only
the selected stitch can be sewn
Scroll Up
• touch symbol one or more
times
• stitches within a stitch category
scroll up to show more options
• touch the symbol continuously
to scroll quickly
Closing Special Applications
• touch «ESC»
• the special application closes
• returns to previous screen
Combi Mode
• touch symbol
• the Combi Mode is active
(green) and stitch combinations
can be programmed
Scroll Down
• touch symbol one or more
times
• stitches within a stitch category
scroll down to show more
options
• touch the symbol continuously
to scroll quickly
OK
• touch symbol
• adjustment/selection is
activated or confirmed, e.g.
stitch selection by number
• programmed adjustment/
selection is ready to sew
Pattern Begin
• touch symbol
• the needle moves to the
beginning of a stitch or stitch
program
«clr» (Clear) Button
• press the «clr» button
• stitch length, width and needle
position are returned to basic
settings
• all active functions will be
deleted
Applications:
• decorative stitches,
buttonholes, working in Combi
Mode
Exception:
Safety functions (e.g. double
needle limitation, alphabet size)
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30 Functions
Special Functions
The following functions are found on the artista 640 sewing computer. Each function which
can be used in the selected program is either shown in the yellow part of the screen or on the
two bottom rows of the gray part of the screen.
Indication of the Altered Stitch
Width or Stitch Length
• return to basic setting by
touching the stitch width/stitch
length bar
Langstich
• touch symbol
• sewing computer sews every
second stitch (max. stitch
length 10mm)
• can be activated for all
practical, decorative, and
directional stitches except
buttonholes
• functions and stitches can be
combined
• can be programmed in
Combi Mode and saved in
File Drawers
Applications:
• combine with straight stitch
to baste
• combine with triple straight
stitch for Topstitching
Pattern Extend 2–5 x
• touch one or more times
• the numbers 2–5 appear
depending on the type of
stitch selected
• the length of selected stitch
will be increased by 2–5 times
• stitch integrity is maintained
• lengthened stitches can be
programmed and saved in
Combi Mode
• touch the symbol longer and
the function is turned off. The
symbol is inactive (yellow)
Horizontal Mirror Image
(left/right)
• touch symbol
• sewing computer sews selected
stitch in Horizontal Mirror
Image (left/right – determined
by the sewing direction)
• can be programmed and saved
in Combi Mode
Applications:
• blindstitch for shell edging
• decorative stitching
• stitch combinations
Applications:
• lengthen existing stitches
without affecting the stitch
density
• combine stitches
Vertical Mirror Image
(up/down)
• touch symbol
• sewing computer sews selected
stitch in Vertical Mirror Image
(up/down – determined by the
sewing direction)
• can be programmed and saved
in Combi Mode
Applications:
• decorative stitching
• stitch combinations
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Stitch Counter for Darning
Program
• touch symbol
• when the desired length is
reached (e.g. straight stitch),
press the external Quick
Reverse button
• the display (or indicator)
changes to «auto»
• the Darning Program is
programmed
Functions 31
Direct Entry Length (in mm) or
On-screen Button
Measurement
• touch symbol
• buttonhole length (number in
mm) can be entered directly by
the stitch width or stitch length
knob
• for measuring the button, hold
button to the left side of
screen and enter button length
= place the vertical black line
precisely on the right side of
the button
• 2mm for the button thickness
will be added automatically
(with button measurement
only)
Programming Buttonhole
Length
• symbol is automatically
highlighted in blue (= active)
when a buttonhole is selected
• using the Quick Reverse button
on head frame a buttonhole
length can be determined
directly, or the displayed length
can be programmed directly by
touching the symbol
• when the buttonhole is
programmed the symbol is
turned off (inactive, yellow)
• if a new length is to be
programmed the symbol has to
be re-selected
Securing Function (with 4
stitches)
• touch symbol before starting to
sew = individual stitches will be
secured at the beginning
• touch symbol during sewing
individual stitches = individual
stitches will be secured at the
end, the sewing computer
stops
• programming the function
within a stitch combination =
each individual stitch of the
stitch combination can be
secured at the beginning or at
the end
Multifunction Button
(only available in Combi Mode)
• touch symbol
• a special screen with further
functions opens:
• Delete Combination
• Mirror Combination
• Preview
• Combination Sub-divider
Manual 4 or 6 Step
Buttonholes
• touch symbol
• a special screen appears
• sew manual buttonhole in 4 or
6 steps (according to
buttonhole type)
Pattern Repeat 1–9 x
• by touching the symbol several
times the numbers 1-9 appear
• 1 = sewing computer stops at
the end of an individual stitch
or stitch combination
• 2–9 = sewing computer stops
at the end of a stitch or stitch
combination after the number
of repeats selected
• touch the symbol longer and
the function is turned off. The
symbol is inactive (gray)
Save
• touch symbol
• saves stitch combinations and
letters
Delete
• touch symbol
• deletes individual stitches or
letters above the cursor
• deletes stitch combinations
• deletes “Drawers” content
Applications:
• sewing individual motifs
• combine with practical and
decorative stitches
Alphabet Size
• when an alphabet is selected
the size is 9mm (field with 1 is
blue)
• touch symbol
• size will be reduced to approx.
6mm (field with 2 is blue)
Combination Sub-divider
• touch symbol
• stitch combinations can be split
up as desired by placing a subdivider between stitches
• each part is totally independent
from the other parts of the
combination
Applications:
• sewing individual decorative
stitches
• sewing individual letters
• sewing stitch combinations and
words
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32 Functions
Balance
• touch symbol
• Balance screen appears
• balance forwards and reverse
stitches
Applications:
• adapting practical and
decorative stitches to various
types of fabrics (e.g.
Honeycomb stitch)
• altering decorative stitches for
a new look
• balancing buttonholes to
different fabrics
Upper Case / Lower Case
• Upper Case is activated when
Block or Script is selected
• touch symbol
• Lower Case is activated
Continuous Reverse Sewing
• touch symbol
• sews the selected stitch in
reverse
Applications:
• darning with straight or
running stitch
• decorative stitching on sleeves
or trouser legs
• quilting
Stitch Selection by Number
• touch symbol
• special screen appears
• select individual stitch by
touching the appropriate
number combination
Applications:
• easy selection of individual
stitch
• easy selection for stitch combination in Combi Mode
File Drawers
• touch symbol
• the Drawers screen appears
Security Program
• touch symbol
• a special screen appears
• by selecting the respective
needle symbol the stitch width
will be limited automatically
• this prevents the inserted
special needle (double needle,
etc.) from hitting the presser
foot or the stitch plate =
avoiding needle breakage
• the numbers represent the
distance in mm between the
needles of the double and
triple needle
• touch the needle symbol
framed in green. The standard
needle is active again and the
stitch width limitation is
turned off
• by selecting the respective
stitch plate icon the stitch
width is limited automatically
so that the inserted standard
needle cannot hit the stitch
plate
Thread tension
• touch symbol
• the Thread Tension screen
appears
• the Thread Tension can be
altered
• the selected setting is visible
in the field
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• once a feature is active the
symbol turns red
• selected functions remain
active even after sewing
computer is turned off
(«0»)/on
• touch «OK» to activate
selected Security Program
function
• Security Program functions
must be removed within
Security Program by selecting
desired needle and stitch plate
Applications:
• to stitch pintucks and for
hemstitching
• hemming knits
• decorative stitches
• sewing special fabrics
• piecing
• quilting
Functions 33
Thread Tension
Basic tension settings apply automatically when a stitch or program is selected.
The tension is factory set for the best possible sewing results using a 100 weight,
2 ply polyester thread (100/2). “Metrosene” 100/2 (Arova-Mettler, Switzerland)
thread is used for the bobbin as well as the upper thread.
The tension may vary when using other types of thread such as embroidery thread,
and it may be necessary to adjust the tension to suit the fabric and stitch type.
Altering the Tension
• touch symbol
Altering the Tension
• the perfect stitch formation is
shown in the middle of the
touch- screen (stitch formation
in the fabric) the basic value is
indicated by the blue bar on
the scale
• turn stitch length or stitch
width knob to the left or right
= the thread tension is
loosened or tightened
• the tension alteration is
indicated on the left side of
the tension scale
• tighten upper thread tension
(= the upper thread is
tightened which pulls the
lower thread to the right side
of the fabric
Save and close
• touch «OK»
• the alteration is saved, the
screen display changes
Back to Basic Settings
• touch «Reset» to return
tensions to the basic settings
• touch «OK» symbol to confirm
No adjustments
• touch «ESC»
• the existing thread tension is
not changed
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• loosen upper thread tension (=
the upper thread is loosened
which pulls the upper thread
more to the wrong side of the
fabric
• the tension alteration affects
only the selected stitch and
will be deleted with «CLR»
and does not remain saved
when turning the sewing
computer off «0»
• the alteration is indicated on
the scale and on the multifunction button on the screen
• the basic value stays visible (in
black) when a change is made
34 Practical Stitches - Summary
Practical Stitches
Straight stitch
All non-stretch fabrics. All straight
stitch work
Zig-zag
Most fabric types. All simple zigzag applications such as
oversewing fine fabrics, attaching
elastic, lace and appliqué
Vari-overlock
Primarily for fine jerseys, stretch
overlock seams, hems and stretch
seams
Running stitch
Most types of fabric. Mending,
patching, reinforcing seams
Securing stitch
(straight stitch)
All types of fabric. Secures the
beginning and end of seams
sewn with straight stitch
Triple straight stitch
Reinforced seams in firm, heavy
fabrics, topstitching and visible
seams
Triple zig-zag
Reinforced seams in firm fabrics,
visible hems and seams,
decorative stitching, couching
Honeycomb stitch
Most types of interlock and
smooth fabrics, visible seams,
hems, linens and some types of
mending
Blindstitch
Most types of fabric. Blind hems,
shell edging on soft jerseys and
fine fabrics, decorative seams
Double overlock
All types of knit. Sews and
finishes the edges in one
operation
Super stretch
Open seam in all super-stretch
fabrics, such as Lycra
Gathering stitch
Most types of fabric. Gathering
with shirring elastic. Butted seams
(edge to edge) and decorative
stitching
Stretch overlock
Mediumweight knits, toweling
and firm wovens. Overlock seams,
flat joining seams
Jersey stitch
Natural, blended or synthetic
fabrics and delicate knits. Visible
seams and hems. Mending
jersey/interlock
Universal stitch
Firm fabrics such as felt and
leather. Flat joining seams, visible
seams, attaching elastic,
decorative seams
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Practical Stitches - Summary 35
Sewn-out zig-zag
Oversewing woven fabrics,
reinforcing edges, attaching
elastic, decorative seaming
Lycra stitch
All two-way stretch fabrics, flat
joining seams and hems,
reinforced seaming on underwear
Stretch stitch
All stretch fabrics, open seam in
sportswear
Reinforced overlock
Medium-to heavyweight knits and
toweling, overlock seams, flat
joining seams
Knit overlock
All knits, machine or handmade,
overlock seam. Sews and finishes
edges in one operation
Basting stitch
Basting seams, hems, etc.
Simple darning program
Automatic darning in fine and
mediumweight fabrics
Reinforced darning program
Automatic darning in
heavyweight fabrics
Bartack program
Reinforcing pocket edges, belt
loops, etc.
Bartack program
Reinforcing pocket edges, belt
loops, securing zippers
Large Fly stitch
Medium to heavyweight fabrics,
reinforcing pocket edges, zippers
and openings
Blindstitch narrow
Blind hems on fine fabrics
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36 Practical Stitches - Summary
Adjusting Individual Practical Stitches
Depending on the fabric and application an alteration of the basic settings may be necessary.
Altering Stitch Width and Stitch Length
• depending on the fabric it may be
necessary that the stitch width or the stitch
length is altered
• can be altered while sewing
• use stitch width or stitch length knob to
make alteration
Changing the Needle Position
• press external Needle Position buttons to
change the needle position, so stitching can
be placed exactly where it is required
• there are a total of 11 needle positions
(5 left, 5 right, and 1 center)
• keep button pressed to change needle
positions quickly
Securing With Quick Reverse Button (on
Head Frame)
• secures the seam beginning and end
• press the Quick Reverse button and the
sewing computer sews in reverse
• release the Quick Reverse button and the
sewing computer sews forwards
Overlock Seams
Seams which cannot be pressed open
• sewn and finished in one operation
• narrow seam allowances
Flat Joining Seams
Seams where the edges are overlapped and
then sewn
• stitching is on the seam allowances
Suggested stitches:
• vari-overlock, double overlock and jersey
Suggested stitch:
• stretch-overlock
Application:
• for knits and jerseys
• excellent for knit clothing, lingerie, bed
linens and Jersey
Application:
• particularly good for toweling and Lycra
• also good for beachwear, leisure wear, and
lingerie
Practical Stitch Seams
Open Seams
Seams where the seam allowance is pressed
open
• seam allowance up to 5/8” (1.5cm)
• seam lies flat
• seam does not stretch
Suggested stitches:
• straight, narrow zig-zag, super stretch, and
triple zig-zag
Application:
• for woven fabrics
• works for most types of sewing projects,
including clothing, home accessories, and
crafts
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Practical Stitches - Summary 37
Temporary Altered Stitch Memory
Stitch:
any selected stitch
The altered memory can hold as many stitch alterations as needed
(these are stitch length, stitch width, Needle Position, Pattern Extend,
Mirror Images, Balance and Pattern Repeat function 1-9x).
Temporary Altered Stitch Memory
• stitch length, stitch width, needle position,
etc. are automatically saved
• by altering the stitch width and stitch
length, all stitches can suit both the fabric
and sewing
• the Temporary Altered Stitch Memory is
particularly useful when alternating
between two applications, such as
overcasting edges, zig-zag, vari-overlock to
suit the fabric
• the stitches can be changed as needed
• when changing back to the altered stitch,
the previous individually altered setting will
stay saved
Return to Basic Settings –
Delete Altered Stitch Memory
• Method 1: press the «clr» button (active
stitch in basic setting)
• Method 2: revert to the stitch width and
length by touching the stitch width/stitch
length bar (or manually by turning the
external knob) revert to other functions
manually
• Method 3: turn sewing computer off («0»)
– altered settings will not be saved
Save the stitch with altered basic
settings in the Personal Program.
23
24
Save the settings permanently.
84
84
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Example:
• select Zig-zag stitch No. 2 and alter stitch
width to 9mm (e.g. overcasting an edge)
• select straight stitch and sew seam
• overcasting another edge: select the
Zig-zag stitch No. 2 again
• the altered setting of the stitch width to
9mm stays saved
38 Practical Stitches - Applications
Straight Stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Straight Stitch
• after turning the sewing computer on,
the Practical Stitch screen with the
activated straight stitch appears
Application
• suitable presser foot to be selected
according to the technique, e.g. manual
darning
• suitable for all fabrics
Adjust the stitch length to suit
the fabric
For example use a longer stitch
length (approximately 3 - 4mm)
with denim, a shorter length (2 2.5mm) with batiste.
Adjust the stitch length to suit
the thread
For example use a longer stitch
length (approximately 3 - 5mm)
when sewing with cordonnet
thread for topstitching.
Activate needle stop down
Prevents the fabric from slipping
when you stop to adjust stitch or
pivot.
Triple Straight Stitch Seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Triple straight stitch No. 6
Jeans or 80-90 universal
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or
Jeans foot No. 8 (optional accessory)
Open Seam
• durable seam for firm and densely woven
fabrics such as denim and corduroy
• reinforced seam subject to hard wear
For heavy layers or very
densely woven fabrics:
A Jeans needle or Jeans foot No. 8
will help when sewing very heavy
fabrics, such as denim or canvas.
Decorative top stitch
Lengthen out stitch and use as a
decorative top stitch with denim.
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Practical Stitches - Applications 39
Securing Stitch (Straight Stitch With Securing)
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Securing stitch No. 5
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Securing Stitch
• for all fabrics
• secures beginning and the end of seam
• reverse stitching is exactly on top of the
seam, preventing puckers
Beginning the Seam
• the sewing computer secures the seam
automatically (5 stitches forward, 5 stitches
reverse)
• the sewing computer continues straight
stitching forwards
Ending the Seam
• when coming to the end of the seam,
press and release the Quick Reverse button
on head frame. The sewing computer will
then secure the seam automatically
(5 stitches reverse, 5 stitches forward)
• sewing computer stops automatically when
securing is completed
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Seaming or sewing long seams
• quicker securing at beginning
and end of seam
• even securing by defined stitch
count
40 Practical Stitches - Applications
Edgestitching
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester or cordonnet (topstitching)
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C, Blindstitch foot No. 5 or
Edge stitch foot No. 10 (optional accessory)
Narrow Edgestitching
Outer Edges
• place edge of fold against the guide on
the Blindstitch foot
• select needle position at desired distance
from the folded edge
5
Hem Edges
• place edge of fold against the guide on
the Blindstitch foot (inside upper edge of
hem)
• select needle position right to sew along
the upper edge
Needle Position
• left for outer edge
• right for inner edge (hem edges)
Presser Foot
• Blindstitch foot No. 5
Foot No. 5:
use any left or far right needle
position
Foot No. 10:
use any left or right needle
position
Wide Edgestitching
Guiding the Fabric
Presser foot as a Guide:
• guide the folded edge along the edge of
the presser foot
Stitch Plate as a Guide:
• guide the folded edge along the marks
on the stitch plate (for stitching 3/8”
to 1 1/8” (1 to 2,5 cm) from the edge)
Seam Guide:
• insert the seam guide into the hole on
the back of the presser foot shaft
• adjust as desired
• tighten the screw
• guide the folded edge along the seam
guide
• to sew parallel wider lines, guide the
seam guide along a previously sewn line
of stitches
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Needle Position
• any needle position can be used
according to the width of the stitching
Presser Foot
• Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Practical Stitches - Applications 41
Zig-zag Stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Zig-zag stitch No. 2
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Zig-zag Stitch
• suitable for all fabrics
• overcasting
• elastic seams
• decorative sewing
Oversewing Edges
• guide edge of fabric into the center of
the presser foot
• do not select too wide a width or too
long a stitch – the edge should lie flat
and not roll
• needle goes into fabric on one side and
over the edge into the air on the other
side
• use a fine darning thread for lightweight
fabric
Satin Stitch
• dense stitch used for appliqué,
embroidery, etc.
• shorten stitch length, satin stitch setting
will be indicated by parallel lines on stitch
length bar
The sewing computer has a
programmed satin stitch: No. 354
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Oversewing edges
If edges roll, use the Vari-overlock
stitch and foot No. 2A.
Embroidery with satin stitch
Experiment with adjusting the
stitch width for new decorative
effects.
42 Practical Stitches - Applications
Darning Program
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Simple darning program No. 22,
Reinforced darning program No. 23
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
lightweight darning thread
up (sewing position)
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A, Reverse pattern foot
No. 1C (only for Darning program No. 22)
Simple Darning Program No. 22
replaces threads along the lengthwise grain in
all fabrics
Preparation
• place a piece of lightweight stabilizer
under the worn area before darning if
necessary
Sewing
• sew the first row and stop
• press and release the Quick Reverse
button at the desired length; this
programs the first length
• continue sewing; the sewing computer
stops automatically
The Simple darning program No.
22 can also be done with the
Automatic buttonhole foot No.
3A (see following description).
Reinforced Darning Program No. 23
replaces threads along the lengthwise and
crosswise grains in all fabrics
Preparation
• use Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
• place a piece of lightweight stabilizer
under the worn area before darning if
necessary
Sewing
• insert the needle in the top left of the
worn area
• sew the first vertical row
• press and release the Quick Reverse
button at the desired length; this
programs the length needed
• continue sewing; the sewing computer
stops automatically when finished
If the darning does not cover
the whole worn or damaged
area
reposition the work under the foot
to continue covering the worn or
damaged area. Begin sewing; the
program will repeat as often as
desired (the length is saved)
If the darning becomes
distorted
correct with the Balance function
see page 102
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Practical Stitches - Applications 43
Manual Darning
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
darning thread
down (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9
Darning Holes or Worn Areas
Replaces both lengthways and crossways
threads in all fabrics.
Preparation
• stretch fabric into darning hoop (optional
accessory) to prevent distortion
• use the slide-on table
Sewing
• move the darning hoop smoothly by
hand
• work from left to right without using
pressure
• when changing direction on top and on
bottom, move in curves (avoid points as
this prevents holes and thread breakage)
• work in different lengths so that the
thread is better spread over the fabric
1. Stitch Over the Hole
• sew the first rows to cover the hole (not
too close, sewing beyond the worn area)
• work the rows in irregular lengths
• turn work by a quarter turn - 90°
2. Cover the First Rows
• sew over the first rows - not too close for
a soft finish
• turn work by a half turn - 180°
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Poor stitch formation
• if the thread is lying on the
right side of the fabric, the
hoop is being moved too
quickly
• if there are knots on the wrong
side of the fabric, the hoop is
being moved too slowly
Thread breaks
• if thread breakage is a
problem, it could be that the
hoop is not being moved
smoothly
3. Complete Darning
• sew loosely and in same direction as 2nd
rows
44 Practical Stitches - Applications
Sewing Knit Fabrics
Start With a New Needle
• blunt needles can damage knits
Use a Stretch Needle (130/705 H-S) if
Necessary
• the needle point slides easily between the
fibers
Use a Fine Sewing Thread
• coarse threads can damage knits and
cause holes when the garment is washed
When Basting, Use a Darning Thread
• very lightweight (80 weight) darning
thread is easier to remove once the seam
is complete
Sew a Test if Necessary
• the elasticity of today’s knit fabrics varies
greatly
• adjust basic settings to suit the fabric, the
seam should be as elastic as the fabric
• for greater elasticity use a shorter stitch
length and/or stitch width (only one of
these adjustments may be necessary)
Presser Foot Pressure
• soft, loose knits can wave when sewn:
• reduce the pressure until the seam lies
flat
• the sewing computer must still feed the
fabric properly
Possible Problems With Sewing Knits
Seam Becomes Wavy
• oversew a thread along the edge
• after sewing adjust edges by pulling the
thread to regain the original length of the
fabric and press seam flat
Edges Roll
• do not sew right on the edge but about
5mm in from the edge
• cut off allowance after finished sewing
Seams Which Pull or Stretch
• reinforce seams with a ribbon (e.g.
shoulder ribbon) before sewing
• different stretch ribbons are available.
These can be sewn to give more security
to the seam
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Practical Stitches - Applications 45
Vari-overlock Seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2A or
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Overlock foot No. 2A is specially designed for
overlock stitches. The pin on the foot allows
for more thread in each stitch so that the
elasticity of the seam is maintained.
Closed Seam
Stretchy seam in fine, soft knits such as silk
jersey and interlock.
Sewing
• guide the raw edge along the pin on the
overlock foot
• the stitch will form over the pin and over
the edge of the fabric
Knits and jersey
• use a new ball point needle to
prevent damaging the loops
Sewing stretch fabrics
• if necessary use a stretch
needle (130/705H-S) =
needle point slides between
the fibers
Double Overlock Seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
feed dog:
Presser foot:
Double overlock No. 10
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Closed Seam
Overlock seam in loose knits and cross seams
in knits and jerseys.
Sewing
• sew the overlock seam along the raw
edge
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1C
46 Practical Stitches - Applications
Stretch Overlock Seam/Reinforced Overlock Seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Stretch overlock No. 13
or Reinforced overlock No. 19
universal, ballpoint or stretch
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or
Overlock foot No. 2A
Closed Seam
• overlock seam in coarse or loose knits
Sewing
•
•
sew stretch overlock along the fabric
edge
the stitch should sew over the edge of
the fabric on the right swing of the
needle
Super Stretch/Stretch Seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Super stretch No. 11 or Stretch No. 18
universal, ballpoint or stretch
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Open Seam
•
•
•
very elastic seam for knit fabrics
ideal for sports and leisure wear
seam lies flat and is not bulky
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When using heavyweight fabrics
(rolling edges) sew 3/8” (1cm) in
from the edge and cut off seam
allowance.
Practical Stitches - Applications 47
Flat Joining Seam
Stitch:
Needle:
Thraed:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Stretch overlock No. 13
universal, ballpoint or stretch
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Flat Joining Seam
• fabric edges are overlapped and the stitch
is placed on the seam allowance which
produces a very flat, durable seam
• ideal for fluffy, thick materials such as
terry cloth, felt and leather
Sewing
• sew stretch overlock along the fabric
edge
• the stitch should sew over the edge of
the top layer of fabric on the right swing
of the needle
Hems With Practical Stitches
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Jersey stitch No. 14
universal, ballpoint or stretch
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Visible Stretch Hem
• for all types of cotton, wool, synthetic
and mixed fiber jerseys
Preparation
• Fold hem, pin if necessary
Sewing
• sew hem at desired depth (right side)
• trim excess fabric (wrong side)
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Fabric and thread
When using a matching thread
color, this seam is hardly visible in
fluffy fabrics.
Thick seam
Particularly suitable for fabrics in
which a normal straight stitch seam
would stretch open.
48 Practical Stitches - Applications
Ribbing With Overlock Seams
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Vari-overlock No. 3
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Overlock foot No. 2A
Ribbing With Overlock Seam
• for all fine cotton, synthetic and mixed
fiber knits
Preparation
• cut ribbing twice the finished width plus
double the seam allowance
• fold ribbing in half
• pin and baste to opening, front edge to
outside
Sewing
• sew vari-overlock over the raw edge
• guide the raw edge along the pin of the
foot
• the stitch will form over the pin and over
the edge of the fabric
Back
Front
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Preventing the ribbing from
becoming wavy
Cut ribbing slightly shorter than the
opening and pull slightly when
pinning.
Needle stop down
Needle stays in fabric when
pivoting around curves (neck edges
and armholes).
Practical Stitches - Applications 49
Zipper
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Needle position:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Zipper foot No. 4 or
Zipper foot with guide No. 14 (optional accessory)
far right or far left
Preparation
• baste seam closed and clean finish the
seam allowance
• baste or pin zipper in place so that fabric
folded edges meet over the center of the
zipper
Sewing
• open zipper a little
• start sewing from top left
• position the foot so the needle stitches
along the edge of the zipper coils
• stop in front of the pull (needle position
down), raise the presser foot and close
zipper again
• continue to sew to the base of the zipper
(needle position down)
• turn fabric and sew across the seam
(needle position down)
• turn fabric again and sew second side of
the zipper from bottom to top
Variation: Sew both sides of zipper from
bottom to top
• suitable for all fabrics with nap or grain
(e.g. velvet)
• prepare zipper as described above
• start sewing in the seam of the zipper
end and sew first side from bottom to
top
• sew the second side the same way from
bottom to top
Zipper as a decorative element
• sew a visible zipper into the
fabric as a decorative element
To sew around the zipper pull
• close the zipper and sew up to
about 2” (5cm) away from the
pull
• stop with the needle down in
the fabric, raise the presser
foot. Open zipper, pulling the
tab below the needle; lower
presser foot and continue to
sew
Starting to sew
• hold threads firmly when
starting to sew and pull the
fabric gently behind the needle
for a few stitches
Zipper tape or firm fabric
• for even stitch formation use a
90 - 100 needle
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50 Practical Stitches - Applications
Blind Hem
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Blindstitch wide No. 9,
Blindstitch narrow No. 29
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, polyester, silk or monofilament
up (sewing position)
Blindstitch foot No. 5
Blind Hem Wide No. 9
• for invisible hems in medium to heavy
fabrics
Blind Hem Narrow No. 29
• for invisible hems in batiste
Preparation
• finish the raw edges as desired
• fold the hem and baste or pin in place
• fold the garment back over the right side
of the fabric to expose the finished lower
edge (see drawing)
• place the work under the presser foot with
the guide positioned against the folded
back fabric
Fine stitch width adjustment
• sew a test on the fabric. Adjust
the stitch width to suit the
fabric so that the needle just
pierces the edge of the fold
• guide the raw edge along the
guide on the foot to keep the
stitch depth even
Blind hem wide
Sewing
• the needle should just pierce the edge of
the fold
• after sewing about 4” (10cm), check both
sides of fabric and adjust the stitch width if
necessary
Wrong side
of fabric
Blind hem narrow
Right side of
fabric
Wrong side of fabric
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Practical Stitches - Applications 51
Honeycomb Stitch Edges
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Honeycomb stitch No. 8
universal, ballpoint, or stretch
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Honeycomb Stitch Edges
• for all cotton, wool, synthetic and mixed
fiber knits
Needle stop down
Needle stays in fabric when
pivoting around curves (neck edges
and armholes).
Preparation
• turn the raw edge under by 3/8” (1cm);
press and baste if required
Sewing
• sew from the right side a presser foot
away from the edge
• trim excess fabric from the wrong side
Balance/Corrections
The Honeycomb stitch opens up and it does
not look correct:
• turn the stitch length knob until the stitch
in the right portion of the screen is
identical with the stitch on the fabric
102
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102
52 Practical Stitches - Applications
Sewing on Elastic, Shirring Elastic/Cord
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Universal stitch No. 15
depends on width of elastic
type and size to suit the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or
Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional accessory)
Sewing on Elastic
• for gathering long lengths of fabric
• for ruffles and flounces in fine fabrics,
outer garments, sportswear, children’s
and doll clothing, crafts, etc.
• works well for gathered sleeve edges and
neck openings
Preparation
• cut elastic to length required
Sewing
• oversew the elastic, adjusting the stitch
width to be slightly wider than the elastic
• needle must not pierce the elastic
• after sewing, adjust the gathers evenly
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Secure the beginning and end
of elastic
Sew a few straight stitches
backwards and forwards to secure
the elastic.
Quick hem finish
• for children’s or doll clothing
• sew sleeve edges with elastic
before sewing seams
Practical Stitches - Applications 53
Basting Stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Stitch length:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Basting stitch No. 21
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton/polyester/leightweight darning thread
3,5 mm-5 mm
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Basting Stitch
• straight stitch, sewing every fourth stitch
(i.e. longest stitch possible is 20mm when
the stitch length is set at 5mm)
• for all work where a very long stitch is
required
• quick and easy basting of seams, hems,
quilts, etc.
• easy to remove
Preparation:
• pin work horizontally to basting direction
to prevent the layers slipping
Securing/fixing the thread
• sew a few basting stitches at
the beginning and end of a
seam
Basting
• use a fine darning thread for
basting as it is easier to remove
Piecing Stitch / Straight Stitch
Stitch:
Stitch length:
Needle:
Thread:
feed dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch No. 1
1.5mm – max. 2mm
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Patchwork foot No. 37 (optional accessory)
Patchwork foot No. 57 (optional accessory)
Patchwork Foot
Accuracy is essential when sewing patches
together. The side edges of the Patchwork
foot are exactly 1/4“ (6mm) from the center
needle position. The center indents on either
side of the foot indicate the needle insertion
point and the two additional indents are 1/4”
(6mm) in front of and behind the needle.
When you sew at a foot’s width, the seam
allowances will always be of the exact width
and it is easy to turn the work while
maintaining the same width.
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Piecing patchwork is sewn with a straight
stitch. A stitch length of 1.5-2 mm is ideal.
It is not necessary to secure the stitches for
these relatively short seam lengths. Attach
the slide-on table for precise and easier work.
54 Decorative Stitches - Summary
Decorative Stitches
Decorative Stitches
• press Decorative Stitch button
Selecting Decorative Stitches
• press Decorative Stitch button
• a complete overview appears on the screen:
• 101,…, 301,…, 401, …, 601, …, 701, …,
901, …
• touch the appropriate button to select and
activate the desired category
• select the desired stitch 9mm
Application of Various Decorative Stitches
Depending on the type of fabric, select simple
or more complicated decorative stitches to
enhance the fabric.
• lightweight fabrics
• use simple decorative stitches for a
particularly nice effect on lightweight fabric
(e.g. Decorative stitch No. 101)
• mediumweight fabrics
• simple and more complicated decorative
stitches - programmed with triple straight
stitch or with a few satin stitches - are
particularly suitable for mediumweight
fabrics (e.g. Decorative stitch No. 615)
• heavyweight fabrics
• use more intricate decorative stitches programmed with satin stitches - on
heavyweight fabrics for outstanding
decorative stitching (e.g. Decorative stitch
No. 401)
Perfect Stitch Formation
• use the same needle and bobbin thread
color
• use a stabilizer on the wrong side of the
fabric for perfect stitch formation
• use an additional, water soluble stabilizer
on the right side of pile or longfiber fabrics
(e.g. wool, velvet, etc.)
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Decorative Stitches - Applications 55
Applications
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Decorative stitches
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, decorative
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C,
Open embroidery foot No. 20C,
Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional accessory),
Clear foot No. 34C (optional accessory)
Altering the Stitch Width
• for decorative effects and stitch
adjustments (e.g. in bulky places)
• wider = turn the external stitch width knob
clockwise
• narrower = turn the external stitch width
knob counter clockwise
• basic settings and the alterations made will
be displayed on screen
• reset basic settings = touch the stitch width
bar or press the «clr» button, or turn the
external knob
Altering the Stitch Length
• for decorative effects and stitch
adjustments (e.g. in bulky places)
• longer = turn the external stitch length
knob clockwise
• shorter = turn the external stitch length
knob counter clockwise
• basic settings and the alterations made will
be displayed on screen
• reset basic settings = touch the stitch
length bar or press the «clr» button, or
turn the external knob
Saving altered basic settings
• save the stitch with its altered
settings in your Personal Program
84
84
Change the factory settings of the
stitch permanently
23
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24
56 Decorative Stitches - Applications
Combining Decorative Stitches and Functions
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Decorative stitches
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, decorative
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or
Open embroidery foot No. 20C,
Embroidery foot No. 6 (optional accessory),
Clear foot No. 34C (optional accessory)
Create amazing effects by combining
decorative stitches and functions.
Instructions
• select desired stitch
• select desired function
• the altered stitch is displayed on screen
• a single stitch can be combined with
several functions
Mirroring Decorative Stitches
1
Deleting Functions
• press the «clr» button or
deletespecial functions
individually bytouching the
appropriatefunction
• touch the Horizontal Mirror Image
(left/right) function
• the stitch is mirrored left/right
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2
• touch the Vertical Mirror Image (up/down)
function
• the stitch is mirrored in the sewing
direction, up/down
• touch both Mirror functions simultaneously
• the stitch is mirrored vertically and
horizontally
Decorative Stitches - Applications 57
Altering Decorative Stitches With
Long Stitch Function (1)
• press the Long Stitch function
• the sewing computer will sew every
alternate stitch
• the completely changed stitch will be
displayed on the screen
Stretching Decorative Stitches With
Pattern Extend Function (2)
• touch the Pattern Extend function once or
more
• the selected stitch is extended (i.e.
stretched) two- to fivefold
• some stitches have limited extension
capability, and thus cannot be stretched to
3 to 5 times their previous size
Sewing With a Double, Triple or Wing
Needle (3)
• on inserting the specialty needle activate
the Security Program
• when selecting the stitch, the stitch width
is automatically limited according to the
needle chosen
• the best effects are achieved with simple
stitches
1
32
32
3
Balance (4)
• use the Balance function for various effects
(stitch variations)
102
2
102
Add «Pattern End»/«Pattern Repeat»
• touch the external Pattern End button: the sewing computer will stop at the
end of an individual stitch or the active stitch in a combination
• touch the Pattern Repeat 1-9x function on the screen: the sewing computer
will stop on completion of the number of single repeats entered
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4
58 Decorative Stitches - Applications
Practical and Decorative Stitches in the Combi Mode
• select «Combi Mode»
• the Combi Mode opens, and is ready to
create stitch combinations
Combining Practical and Decorative
Stitches
• select desired stitch
• stitch appears in the stitch display
• select another stitch
• continue in this way until the desired stitch
combination is completed
Most of the practical and decorative stitches can be combined, except for the
following special programs:
Securing program No. 324, Securing stitch No. 5
Basting No. 21
Darning No. 22 and No. 23
Bartacks No. 24 and No. 25
Fly stitches No. 26
Stitches in the buttonhole category Nos. 51 - 63
Mirroring complete
combination left/right
• touch Multifunction button
• touch «Mirror Image»
• the complete combination is mirrored
left/right
Add Securing function
(4 small securing stitches)
There are various options for
automatically securing stitches:
1. touch «Securing» before beginning to
sew: securing stitches are stitched at
beginning of stitch combination
2. programming a function within a stitch
combination: the desired stitches are
secured accordingly
Example of a Stitch Combination
• Machine Embellishment stitches: touch
stitch No. 655 once
• open Practical Stitches window and touch
Straight stitch No. 1 once
• open Decorative Stitches window and
touch stitch No. 606 in Machine
Embellishment stitches once
• open Practical Stitches window and touch
Straight stitch No. 1 once
• the stitches alternate continuously as you
sew
Example of a Stitch and Function
Combination
• touch stitch No. 656 once
• touch stitch No. 656 again and activate
Vertical Mirror Image function to mirror the
stitch in the sewing direction
• the stitch is mirrored in the sewing
direction
• the stitches alternate in their original and
mirrored form as you sew
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN
• correcting in a combination see page
90 - 91
• saving a combination see page 87 - 88
Lettering - Summary 59
Alphabet Summary
• 3 different alphabets are available
• each of the alphabets can be sewn in two different sizes
• Block and Script lettering can also be sewn in lower case
Application
• for names and addresses
• for words and texts
• for labeling quilts (quilt labels)
• for labeling (labels)
Alphabets
• press Alphabet button
Alphabet Summary
• Alphabet summary appears
• Block
• Double Block
• Script (Italics)
• touch one of the buttons to select
• the desired alphabet is activated
161
162
On-screen Letter Selection
• scroll up and down to view all capital
letters, numbers, punctuation marks and
special characters
• touching the «A/a» on-screen button
changes to lower case (Block and Script)
Perfect Stitch Formation
• use the same color for upper and bobbin
threads
• use stabilizer on the wrong side to reinforce
sewing project
• use additional water soluble stabilizer on
the right side on pile and long fiber fabric
(e. g. wool, velvet, etc.)
• use simpler letters, programmed with
straight stitches (like Double Block lettering)
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60 Lettering - Applications
Combining Lettering
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Letters
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton, decorative
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Alphabets
• individual letters and rows of the same
letter of the same alphabet are sewn in
Single Mode
• letters for names, addresses, words, etc. are
combined and sewn in Combi Mode
Combining Letters
• open Combi Mode
• select desired letter
• letter appears in Stitch Altering Area and
on bar above Alphabet menu
• cursor is below the letter
Adding Securing function
(4 small securing stitches)
There are different ways to automatically
secure stitching:
1. touch function button before starting to
sew to secure stitching at the beginning
2. program function within a combination
to secure accordingly
• select next letter and touch required button
• second letter appears in Stitch Altering
Area, etc.
Correcting Combinations
Inserting Letters
• a letter is always inserted above the cursor
• cursor must be scrolled up (arrow) to insert
an additional letter at the beginning of
lettering
• activate desired place by selecting required
letter in Stitch Altering Area or scroll to it
• select new letter
• letter is inserted above cursor
Deleting Letters
• a letter is always deleted above the cursor
• activate desired place by selecting required
letter in Stitch Altering Area, or scroll to it
• touch «Delete»
• letter is deleted
• saving and deleting
combinations
87
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91
Lettering - Applications 61
Combining Lettering and Functions
Select Lower Case (only Block and Script)
• touch Lower Case/Upper Case button
• the lower case «a» is highlighted in black
• touch Lower Case/Upper Case button again
and the capital «A» is black
• Upper Case is reactivated
Mirroring Lettering
• touch «Horizontal Mirror Image (left/right)»
• the letter is mirrored horizontally
• for special effects «Vertical Mirror Image»
can be selected
30
Using Pattern Extend to Stretch Lettering
• touch «Pattern Extend» one time
• selected letter is stretched by 2 times its
original size
Pattern Combination as Single or
Multiple Repeat
• create pattern combination
• touch «Pattern Repeat 1-9x» button one or
more times (numbers 1-9 appear)
• sewing computer stops automatically after
completing selected number of patterns
Change Size
• touch Alphabet Size button; the field with
number 2 is blue
• the letter is reduced to approx. 6mm
• touch «Alphabet Size» again to reactivate
the larger size (field with number 1 is blue)
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30
62 Buttonholes - Summary
Buttonholes
In General
Buttonholes are practical closures which can also be used for a decorative effect. The artista
640 provides a very versatile selection.
All buttonholes can be sewn and programmed in a variety of ways.
Buttonholes/Button Sew-on Program/Eyelets
• press Buttonhole button
• a summary of the different buttonholes and eyelets
appears on the screen display
• touch desired stitch
Standard Buttonhole
Light- to mediumweight fabrics.
Blouses, dresses, bedding, etc.
Narrow buttonhole (heirloom
sewing)
Light- to mediumweight fabrics.
Blouses, dresses, children’s and
baby clothes, dolls’ clothes, crafts
Stretch buttonhole
All stretch fabrics made from
cotton, wool, silk and synthetic
fibers
Round buttonhole with
normal bartack
For medium- to heavyweight
fabrics of all types. Clothing,
jackets, coats, rainwear
Round buttonhole with
horizontal bartack
For medium- to heavyweight
fabrics of all types. Clothing,
jackets, coats, rainwear
Keyhole buttonhole with
normal bartack
Heavyweight non-stretch fabrics.
Jackets, coats, leisure wear
Straight stitch buttonhole
For reinforcing buttonholes,
pocket edges, especially for
stitching buttonholes in leather or
imitation leather
Button sew-on program
For buttons with 2 and 4 holes
Narrow zig-zag eyelet
Opening for cords and narrow
ribbons/bands, decorative work
Straight stitch eyelet
Opening for cords and narrow
ribbons/bands, decorative work
Hand-look buttonhole
Light- to mediumweight woven
fabrics. Blouses, dresses, leisure
wear, bedding
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Buttonholes - Summary 63
Buttonhole Program Functions
The functions below appear on the function
toolbar at the lower edge of the screen
display when any buttonhole (Nos. 51–56,
59 and 63) is selected.
Manual Buttonhole
• touch symbol to open special
screen display
• sew manual buttonhole in 4 or
6 steps (according to
buttonhole type)
Application:
• for individual manually sewn
buttonholes
• to repair existing buttonholes
Programming Buttonhole
Length
• the symbol is automatically
highlighted in blue (active)
when a buttonhole is selected
• using the Quick Reverse button
on head frame a buttonhole
length can be determined
directly, or the displayed length
can be programmed directly by
touching the symbol
• when the buttonhole is
programmed the symbol is
turned off (inactive, yellow)
• if a new length is to be
programmed the symbol has to
be reselected
Buttonhole Length – Direct
Entry Length (in mm) or Onscreen Button Measurement
• touch symbol to open special
screen display
• enter the buttonhole length
(stitch length in mm) directly
with the stitch length or stitch
width knob
• to measure hold button to the
left side of screen
• determine the buttonhole
length by placing the vertical
black line precisely on the right
side of the button
• 2mm for the button thickness
will be added automatically
(with on-screen button
measurement only)
Application:
• simple method to determine
buttonhole size by direct entry
of the length in mm or by
measuring button on the
screen
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64 Buttonholes - Important Information
Buttonholes - Important Information
Thread Tension
• the tension is set automatically when a buttonhole is selected
• the upper tension is slightly looser than normal
• this gives a slightly rounded appearance to the beads, making the buttonhole
more attractive
• cord reinforces buttonholes and enhances their appearance
• sew both beads at the same speed
Marking Buttonholes
Manual Buttonholes
• mark the buttonhole length in the desired
position
• use Buttonhole foot No. 3C
Automatic Buttonholes
• mark the length of just one buttonhole
• after sewing the first buttonhole, the
length for all subsequent buttonholes is
automatically programmed
• mark only the beginning of all subsequent
buttonholes
• use Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Test Sewing
• always sew a test sample on the fabric
with stabilizer you intend to use
• select the buttonhole type you intend to
use
• sew the buttonhole in the same direction
on the fabric (with or against the grain)
• cut the buttonhole open
• push the button through
• adjust the buttonhole length if necessary
Keyhole Buttonholes
• mark the bead length only
• the correct length eye will be added when
the buttonhole is sewn
Corrections
To Adjust the Bead Width:
• alter the stitch width
Altering the Stitch Length:
• any alterations to the stitch length affect
both beads (more dense or less dense)
• always reprogram the buttonhole after
any changes to the stitch length
If a buttonhole is to be sewn at right angles
to a seam, we recommend the use of the
height compensating plates for buttonholes
(available as optional accessory). Place the
plates from the back between fabric and
bottom of slide foot up to the thick part of
the fabric and push to front.
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Using the compensation plate (in some
countries only available as optional
accessory) is recommended when sewing
buttonholes in difficult fabrics. It can only
be used with the Automatic buttonhole foot
No. 3A.
Buttonholes - Important Information 65
Correct Interfacings or Stabilizers for Buttonholes
Automatic Buttonholes
• for best results always sew buttonholes
on area that is lined with interfacing (1)
• the interfacing should suit the fabric type
1
•
for thick and fluffy fabrics an embroidery
stabilizer can be used (2). The fabric feeds
better
2
Buttonholes with Cord
Cord
• use cording to reinforce buttonholes and
enhance their appearance
• the loop of the cord should be at the end
of the buttonhole most subject to wear
cord loop = where button is sewn on
• position the work accordingly
Ideal Cords
• Perle cotton No. 8
• strong hand-sewing thread
• fine crochet yarn
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66 Buttonholes - Important Information
Hooking the Cord onto Presser Foot
No. 3C
• insert the needle at the beginning of the
buttonhole
• raise the presser foot
• hook the cord over the center pin on the
front of the foot
•
•
place both ends of the cord in the
grooves on the sole of the foot and pull
them to the back
lower the presser foot
Sewing
• sew the buttonhole in the usual manner,
do not hold the cord tightly
• the buttonhole will form over the cord,
covering it
Hooking the Cord in the Automatic
Buttonhole Foot with Slide No. 3A
• insert the needle at the beginning of the
buttonhole
• raise the presser foot
• guide the cord under the foot to the right
• hook the cord over the pin at the back of
the foot
•
•
bring the cords to the front of the foot
pull them into the slit
Sewing
• sew the buttonhole in the usual manner,
do not hold the cord tightly
• the buttonhole will form over the cord,
covering it
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Buttonholes - Important Information 67
Securing the Cord
• pull the cord through the buttonhole until
the loop disappears into the end of it
• pull the ends of the cord through to
wrong side of the fabric
• knot or secure with stitches
Cutting Buttonholes Open
• using the seam ripper, cut from the ends
towards the middle
• in order not to cut the ends of short
buttonholes by mistake, place a pin at the
end of the buttonhole for additional
security
Buttonhole Cutter and Block (special
accessory)
• place the fabric on the wood
• place the cutter in the center of the
buttonhole
• press down on the cutter with your hand
or a hammer
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68 Buttonholes - Important Information
Balance for Buttonholes
Balance for Direct Entry Length Standard
Buttonhole
• any Balance alterations affect both beads
A
A
B
B
Balance for Direct Entry Length Keyhole
or Round Buttonholes
• any Balance alterations affect both beads
• the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:
• 1. sew straight stitches until the sewing
computer changes to the keyhole or eye,
then stop the sewing computer
• 2. touch «Balance» and now adjust the
picture in the right portion of the Balance
screen with the stitch length knob to suit
the sewn buttonhole
Balance for Manual Round or Keyhole
Buttonhole
• any Balance alterations affect both beads
differently:
if left bead is too dense (picture A)
• turn stitch length knob counter clockwise left bead will be longer, right bead will be
shorter
if left bead not dense enough (picture B)
• turn stitch length knob clockwise - left
bead will be shorter, right bead will be
longer
• the keyhole or eye is balanced as follows:
Recommendation
• sew a test on the fabric (s) you will use
Clear Balance
• touch «Reset» in the special Balance screen
or press the «clr» button («clr» deletes the
programmed buttonhole as well!)
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With Direct Entry Length and
Manual buttonholes each
individual buttonhole sequence
can be balanced separately
if
•
if
•
•
keyhole is distorted to the right (picture A):
turn stitch length knob counter clockwise
keyhole is distorted to the left (picture B):
turn stitch length knob clockwise
3. touch «OK» and complete buttonhole
if
•
if
•
keyhole is distorted to the left (picture B)
turn stitch length knob counter clockwise
keyhole is distorted to the right (picture A)
turn stitch length knob clockwise
Balance for Manual Standard Buttonhole
• any Balance alterations affect both beads
Buttonholes - Applications 69
Automatic Buttonhole
Direct Entry Length or Button Measuring on Screen
• enter the buttonhole length (buttonhole opening in mm) directly
with the stitch length or stitch width knob
• suitable for all buttonhole lengths of 4mm up to the maximum
length
Entering Buttonhole Length or Button
Measuring
• buttonholes can be sewn to a specific
length with the Automatic buttonhole foot
No. 3A
• select type of buttonhole
• touch the Direct Entry Length function
Determining Buttonhole Length
• a special screen display appears
• enter buttonhole length with the stitch
width or stitch length knob
• the programmed length (cutting space of
buttonhole) is shown underneath the
button, between the two arrows
• the number above the button indicates the
button size for the selected buttonhole
length
• confirm the desired length with «OK», the
screen changes automatically
• «auto» and the programmed length in mm
appear on the screen
• the buttonhole length indicates the
buttonhole opening in mm
Determining Button Size
• a special screen appears
• hold the button against the left side of the
screen
• use the external stitch width or stitch
length knob place the vertical black line
precisely on the right side of the button
• the button size is shown in mm above the
button, between the two arrows (e.g.
14mm)
• remove the button from the screen
• confirm the correct size with «OK», the
screen changes automatically
Buttonhole Size
• the sewing computer calculates the
buttonhole size from the button diameter
• 2mm are added automatically to take the
thickness of the button into account
Corrections for Direct Entry Length
• enter new length as described above
Corrections for Thick Buttons
• for buttons which are particularly thick,
e.g. raised buttons, etc. place the vertical
line 1 – 4mm outside the button
Deleting Saved Buttonholes
• press the «clr» button or touch
«recording»
• «auto» disappears and «recording»
appears
• a new buttonhole length can be
programmed
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Back to Buttonhole Menu
• touch «ESC» to confirm and return to
Buttonhole screen, the original settings
remain
70 Buttonholes - Applications
Programming Automatic Buttonholes With
Quick Reverse Button on Head Frame
Automatic Buttonhole
• the lens on the Automatic buttonhole foot
No. 3A automatically registers the length of
the buttonhole (for exact duplication) and
automatically completes the buttonhole,
when reaching the maximum length
• suitable for all buttonhole lengths of 4mm
up to the maximum length, which can be
set with stitch width or stitch length knob
Both beads are sewn in the same
direction.
The buttonhole length indicates
the buttonhole opening in mm.
Sewing Standard and Stretch Buttonholes
No. 51, 52, 53
Sewing First Bead
• the stitching sequence is displayed in the
Stitch Altering Area
• sew the first bead forwards, stopping at
the required length
Programming Buttonhole
• press the Quick Reverse button on head
frame, continue sewing
• «auto» and the programmed length
(in mm) appears on the screen to indicate
that the buttonhole length is programmed
Auto Buttonhole
the sewing computer sews the following
automatically:
• straight stitches in reverse
• the first bartack
• the second bead forwards
• the second bartack
• the securing stitches. The sewing computer
stops and automatically changes to the
beginning of the buttonhole
All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn
automatically to the same length (without
pressing the Quick Reverse button)
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Buttonholes - Applications 71
Sewing Round and Keyhole Buttonholes
No. 54, 55, 56
Sewing Straight Stitches
• the stitching sequence is displayed in the
Stitch Altering Area
• sew straight stitches forwards, stopping at
the desired length
Programming Buttonhole
• press the Quick Reverse button on head
frame, continue sewing
• «auto» and the programmed length (in
mm) appear on the screen to indicate that
the buttonhole length is programmed
Auto Buttonhole
the sewing computer sews the following
automatically:
• the eye or the keyhole
• the first bead in reverse
• straight stitches forwards
• the second bead in reverse
• the bartack
• the securing stitches. The sewing computer
stops and changes automatically to the
beginning of the buttonhole
All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn
automatically to the same length (without
pressing the Quick Reverse button)
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Double sewn keyhole
buttonholes
• keyhole buttonholes can be
sewn twice on thick fabrics
and the stitches are made
longer when sewing the first
time
• after sewing the first
buttonhole, do not move the
work, simply tap the foot
control once to begin sewing
again
72 Buttonholes - Applications
Sewing Hand-look Buttonhole No. 63
Length of the First Bead
• sew bead to desired length
• stop sewing computer
Programming the Buttonhole
• press Quick Reverse button on head frame,
continue sewing
• «auto» and the programmed length (in
mm) appears on the screen to indicate that
the buttonhole length is programmed
Auto Buttonhole
the sewing computer sews the following
automatically:
• the eye
• the second bead in reverse
• the bartack, the securing stitches and stops
automatically
All subsequent buttonholes will be sewn
automatically to the same length (without
pressing the Quick Reverse button)
Important: How to Correct Mistakes
• touch the Pattern Begin function
• the sewing computer reverts to the
beginning of the buttonhole
Deleting Saved Buttonholes
• press the «clr» button or touch «recording»
• «auto» disappears and «recording» appears
• a new buttonhole length can be
programmed
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Beautiful buttonholes
• for successful sewing of
buttonholes always use a
suitable stabilizer or
interfacing
• using a cord enhances the
appearance of the buttonholes
• keep the speed consistent for
each buttonhole (reduce
motor speed if necessary). This
results in equal density of the
buttonhole bead
Buttonholes - Applications 73
Buttonhole in Long Term Memory
Long term saving of buttonhole programs is
only possible for buttonholes originally
stitched as «auto» length buttonholes.
Saving Buttonhole (Save)
• touch the displayed buttonhole in the
Stitch Altering Area (left portion of screen)
• a special screen appears
• touch the Save function and the
buttonhole is saved in the long term
Memory
Recalling Saved Buttonhole
• select the desired buttonhole type
• the buttonhole length appears on the
Direct Entry Length on-screen button
• «auto» and the length in mm appear on
the screen
Changing Saved Buttonhole
• select the desired buttonhole type
• touch the Direct Entry Length function
• change the length of the saved buttonhole
on the screen that appears and confirm
with «OK»
• save buttonhole as described above
• programming a new length overrides the
existing saved one
Deleting Saved Buttonhole
• select the desired buttonhole type
• touch the Direct Entry Length function and
program a new length or touch the
displayed buttonhole in the Stitch Altering
Area
• a special screen appears
• touch «Reset» and the saved buttonhole is
deleted
• a new buttonhole length can be
programmed
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74 Buttonholes - Applications
Manual 4 or 6 Step Buttonholes
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
any buttonhole
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhole foot No. 3C
Opening Manual Buttonhole
• select the type of buttonhole desired
• touch «man» for the Manual buttonhole
function
Sewing a 4 Step Buttonhole
• «1» is activated
• sew the first bead
• stop the sewing computer at the desired
length
• touch «2» on the screen
• the sewing computer sews the eye or the
keyhole
• touch «3»
• the sewing computer sews the second
bead in reverse
• stop the sewing computer at the first stitch
Sewing a 6 Step Buttonhole
• «1» is activated
• sew first bead
• stop sewing computer at the desired bead
length
• touch «2»
• the sewing computer sews straight stitches
in reverse
• stop sewing computer at the first stitch of
the first bead
• touch «3»
• the sewing computer sews the top bartack
and stops automatically
Sewing buttonholes manually is
ideal if you only need to sew
one; also for repairing existing
buttonholes.
The number of steps depends on
the type of buttonhole.
The standard buttonhole has 6
steps, round, keyhole and handlook buttonholes have 4 steps.
A manually sewn buttonhole
cannot be saved.
• touch «4»
• the sewing computer sews the top bartack
and secures stitches automatically
• the length of the beads is determined
manually when sewing
• bartack, eye and securing stitches are
preprogrammed
• the individual steps can also be selected by
pressing the Quick Reverse button
• touch «4»
• the sewing computer sews the second
bead
• stop sewing computer
• touch «5»
• the sewing computer sews the bottom
bead and stops automatically
• touch «6»
• the sewing computer secures the stitches
and stops automatically
• the bead length is determined by the user
• the bartack and the securing stitches are
preprogrammed
• the individual steps can also be selected by
pressing the Quick Reverse button
Leave Program
• touch «ESC» or «man»
• screen reverts to the original Buttonhole
screen
Repairing buttonholes
• omit or bypass the unneeded steps
• use only the steps which are necessary to repair the worn sections
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Buttonholes - Applications 75
Straight Stitch Buttonhole
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch buttonhole No. 59
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Buttonhol foot No. 3C or
Automatic buttonhole foot No. 3A
Straight Stitch
• select stitch No. 59 on the screen
• it is programmed the same way as the
Automatic Buttonhole Program (see page
69, 70)
Straight stitched buttonholes
are particularly useful for
reinforcing buttonholes on all
soft and loosely woven fabrics
such as wool, or for
buttonholes which are subject
to extreme wear. They are also
useful for reinforcing
buttonhole openings in leather,
vinyl or felt.
Altering the Distance Between the Rows
of Stitching
• alter the stitch width if the distance
between the two rows of stitching is too
wide or too narrow
Button Sew-on Program
Stitch:
Stitch width:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Button sew-on program No. 60
depends on the distance between the holes
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
down (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9 or
Button sew-on foot No. 18 (optional accessory)
Button Sew-on Program
• select stitch No. 60 on the screen
Sewing 2 Hole Button
• check distance between holes with the
handwheel and adjust stitch width if
necessary
• hold the threads when starting to sew
• sew on button
• the sewing computer stops automatically
when program is completed and is
immediately ready for the next button
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Buttons with 2 and 4 holes can
be attached. The shank (thread
length between button and
fabric) can be made shorter or
longer (foot No. 18) as desired.
Buttons sewn on for decorative
purposes only are stitched
without a thread shank.
76 Buttonholes - Applications
Sewing 4 Hole Button
• sew the front holes first
• carefully move the button forward
• sew the back holes with the same program
Sewing on buttons
A real time saver, especially
when several of the same type
buttons must be sewn on, e.g.
blouses, bedding, etc.
Beginning and Ending Threads
• the threads are secured and can be
trimmed
For work which is subject to
heavy wear or washing, sew
Button sew-on program twice.
For Secure Results
• pull both bobbin threads until the ends of
the upper thread are visible on the wrong
side (knot if required)
• trim threads
Zig-zag or Straight Stitch Eyelets
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Narrow zig-zag eyelet No. 61 or
Straight stitch eyelet No. 62
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
cotton or polyester
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C
Eyelet Programs
• select desired eyelet
No. 61 = zig-zag eyelet
No. 62 = straight stitch eyelet
Sewing Eyelets
• position fabric under the presser foot and
sew
• the sewing computer stops automatically
when finished and is immediately ready for
the next eyelet
Punching Eyelets
• use an awl or punch to cut open the eyelet
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Eyelets are ideal openings for
cords and narrow ribbons,
attractive decorative elements,
ideal for children’s clothing, and
crafts. They cannot be
programmed in stitch
combinations.
Quilt Stitches - Summary 77
Quilt Stitches
Quilt Stitches
Different stitches can be selected which can be used especially for
quilting, patchwork or for appliqué:
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
No.
•
•
•
•
324
325
326
327
328
329
330
331
332
333 - 338
339 - 345, 351
347, 348, 350
352
353
354
Quilters securing program
Quilting straight stitch
Piecing stitch/Straight stitch
Stippling stitch
Hand-look quilt stitch
Blanket stitch
Double blanket stitch
Blindstitch
Feather stitch
Feather stitch variations
Decorative quilt stitches
Quilt stitch / Hand-look quilt stitch variations
Blanket stitch (dual)
Double blanket stitch (dual)
Satin stitch
touch the stitch of your choice
the stitch is activated
all information on-screen is visible
stitch widths/stitch lengths can be altered and customized
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78 Quilt Stitches - Summary
Important Information on Different Techniques
Patchwork, Appliqué and Quilting
Patchwork
• with this technique fabric of different
colors, forms and patterns are sewn
together to make blankets, wall hangings
and garments
• for the design of patchwork basic
geometric forms are most suitable, e.g.
different rectangular and triangular forms
as well as squares
Stitch for patchwork:
• No. 326 Piecing stitch / Straight stitch
Appliqué
• to appliqué is to apply patches of fabric by
sewing or embroidering on the base fabric
• apart from creative and artistic designing
the appliqué technique also makes it
possible to cover damaged areas in a clever
way
Following stitches can be used:
• No. 354 Satin stitch
• No. 329, 330, 352, 353 Blanket stitches
• No. 331 Blindstitch
Quilting
Quilts consist of three layers:
• decorative top layer of fabric (usually
patchwork)
• middle layer - batting
• bottom layer in plain fabric used as lining
After these three layers, which result in a
«quilt sandwich», have been pinned and
basted they are sewn together with different
stitches. This is called quilting.
Following stitches are suitable for quilting:
• Nr. 324 Quilters securing program
• Nr. 325 Quilting straight stitch
• Nr. 328, 347, 348, 350 Hand-look quilt
stitches
• Nr. 327, 331 - 345, 351 Decorative quilt
stitches
• freehand quilting with or without BSR
(optional accessory)
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Quilt Stitches - Applications 79
Hand-look Quilt Stitch
Stitch:
Needle:
Upper thread:
Bobbin thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Quilt stitches Nos. 328, 347, 348, 350
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
monofilament
30/2 cotton thread
up (sewing position)
Reverse pattern foot No. 1C or
Walking foot No. 50 (optional accessory)
Hand-look Quilt Stitch
• Suitable for all fabrics and work which
should look «hand sewn».
Sewing Test
• the bobbin thread is pulled to the right
side 1 stitch is visible (bobbin thread) 1
stitch is invisible (monofilament) = handlook effect
Upper Thread Tension
• the upper thread tension is
automatically set
• Increase upper thread tension to
suit fabric if necessary
Balance
• adjust stitch with the Balance if necessary
Perfect corners
• activate Pattern end and
Needle stop down and pivot
the work
• when pivoting make sure that
the fabric does not become
distorted
Monofilament breaks
• sew more slowly
• reduce upper thread tension
slightly
Sewing
• the hand-look quilt stitch can be sewn in
any needle position
Freehand Quilting
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
feed dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch No. 1
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
monofilament or cotton
down (darning position)
Darning foot No. 9 or
Quilting foot No. 29 (optional accessory)
Freehand Quilting
• for all freehand quilt work
Preparation
• pin and baste top layer, batting, and
lining together
• attach the slide-on table
Holding the Work
• hold the fabric with both hands like an
embroidery frame
• start in the center and work out toward
the edges
Quilting a Design
• turn the work using smooth, round
movements to form the design of your
choice
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Stipple Quilting
• technique covers the entire surface of the
fabric
• the lines of stitching are rounded without
any sharp corners; they never cross nor
touch one another
80 Quilt Stitches - Applications
Freehand Quilting With BSR
(BERNINA Stitch Regulator) optional
Stitch:
Needle:
Thread:
Feed dog:
Presser foot:
Straight stitch No. 1 or Zig-zag stitch No. 2
size and type suitable for the fabric selected
monofilament or cotton, embroidery thread, polyester
down (darning position)
BSR foot No. 42 incl. interchangeable soles (closed, open,
transparent)
BSR (BERNINA Stitch Regulator) Function
The BSR presser foot reacts to the movement
of the fabric under the foot and controls the
speed of the sewing computer up to the
maximum speed possible. The following
applies: the faster the fabric is moved the
higher the speed of the sewing computer.
If the fabric is moved too fast an acoustic
signal (beep) is heard. The beeper can be
turned on or off in the Setup Program or
directly on the «BSR» screen.
BSR Function With Straight Stitch No. 1
This function using a special presser foot
allows for free-motion quilting (sewing) using
the straight stitch and a pre-selected stitch
length (up to 5mm).
A regulated set stitch length is maintained
within a certain speed, independent of the
movement of the fabric.
BSR Function With Zig-zag Stitch No. 2
The zig-zag stitch can be used for thread
painting or fabric embellishment.
The set stitch length will NOT be
maintained when sewing with the zigzag stitch, but the BSR function simplifies
the application.
Warning!
By activating the BSR function the sewing computer sews either continuously at a reduced motor speed (mode 1,
standard), or as soon as the fabric is moved (mode 2).
As long as the BSR presser foot is illuminated red, adjustments like threading and changing the needle, for example must
not be carried out, as the needle will engage while fabric is moved unintentionally!
Without fabric feed the BSR mode is turned off after approx. 7 seconds and the red light goes off.
Please refer to the Safety Instructions!
BSR function can be sewn in 2 separate modes of operation:
• BSR mode 1 is the active standard
• the sewing computer runs continuously at
a reduced motor speed, as soon as the
foot control or the Start-Stop-button is
pressed
• moving the fabric under the foot will
engage the sewing computer to accelerate
• through the continuous needle movement
securing in the same position is possible
without pressing an additional button
• touch the button «BSR2» to engage BSR
mode 2
• the sewing computer will only engage if
the foot control or the Start-Stop-button is
pressed and the fabric is moved
simultaneously
• the movement of the fabric determines the
sewing speed
• for securing, the «Securing Function»
button must be pressed
• touch the button «BSR1» to engage BSR
mode 1
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For an even sewing start (one single
stitch) the foot control must be
pressed and the fabric moved
simultaneously.
This also applies for sewing points
and straight stitching within a round
form.
If the BSR function is deactivated and
later re-activated without the sewing
computer being switched off in
between, the last selected BSR mode
is active.
Quilt Stitches - Applications 81
Preparation
• lower the feed dog
• the presser foot pressure must be reduced
to minimum
• use slide-on table
• attach the desired presser foot sole
to the BSR presser foot
• removing sole: press both buttons (see
arrows) on each side of the foot
• slide the sole down the groove at an
angle
• attaching the sole: slide the sole up in
the groove until it clicks into place
•
attach the BSR presser foot to the sewing
computer and plug the cable into the
green socket until it clicks into place
•
•
the «BSR» screen opens automatically
the BSR mode 1 is activated (BSR1 is
standard)
the basic stitch length setting is 2mm
set the desired stitch length
when sewing small forms and stippling,
stitch length of 1mm - 1.5mm is
suggested
•
•
•
Using the following functions in the BSR mode:
Needle Stop Down (Default)
• the arrow points down on the display =
the sewing computer stops with needle
down, when taking foot off foot control
or the Start-Stop-button
Needle Stop Up
• press the needle stop button until the
arrow points up = the sewing computer
stops with needle up, when taking foot
off foot control or the Start-Stop-button
Raise or Lower the Needle
• press the needle stop button - or by
pressing the heel on the foot control, the
needle can be lowered or raised
Securing With the Start-Stop-Button
(only Mode 1)
• unplug the foot control
• place the fabric under the presser foot,
lower presser foot
• press the Needle Stop button twice to
bring up the lower thread
• hold upper and lower thread and start
the BSR mode by pressing the Start-Stopbutton
• sew 5 to 6 securing stitches
• stop the BSR mode by pressing the StartStop-button
• cut threads
• re-start the BSR mode by pressing the
Start-Stop-button to continue the
stitching process
When exceeding a certain speed, adhering to regular stitch length cannot be
guaranteed.
Make sure that the lens on the bottom of the BSR foot is not dirty
(fingerprints, etc.). Clean lens periodically with soft, slightly damp cloth.
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Securing Function (only Mode 2)
• press the «Securing Function» button
• press the foot control /
Start-Stop-button
• short securing stitch sequence will be
sewn as soon as the fabric is moved
under the presser foot. After the
sequence is sewn the set stitch length will
be activated and the securing function
will be automatically deactivated
Free Hand Quilting
• the BSR mode is activated
• free hand quilting can be sewn
• when the securing function button is
pressed during free hand quilting, a short
securing stitch sequence will be sewn and
the sewing computer will stop sewing
automatically
• the BSR mode is deactivated
Free Hand Quilting Without BSR
Activation
• touch the BSR button (on the left side on
the display)
• the BSR mode is deactivated, the buttons
«BSR1» and «BSR2» on the left side on
the display go off
• normal free hand quilting can now
be sewn with the BSR foot, without
automatic regular stitch length
82 Quilt Stitches - Applications
Beeper (Acoustic Signal) Deactivation/Activation
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• touch «5»
• the screen «Audio Settings» appears
5
Selecting Sound for BSR in the Setup
Program
• one sound is set as default
• touch the bar with the speaker symbol
for BSR one time
• if the bar is gray and the speaker is red,
the sound for the beeper is inactive
• if the sounds in the Setup Program are
generally turned off (big bar on left side
of screen is gray, speaker is red), the
symbol with the speaker of the «BSR» bar
is not visible
Selecting Sound for BSR on the «BSR»
Screen
• one sound is set as default
• touch the bar with the speaker symbol
for BSR one time
• if the bar is gray and the speaker is red,
the sound for the beeper is inactive
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generally, the sound selection
symbol is only visible if the
sounds are turned on in the
Setup Program
Quilt Stitches - Applications 83
Activating/Deactivating the BSR Sewing Function:
1.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
With the Foot Control
plug in the foot control
lower the presser foot
start the BSR mode by pressing the foot
control
a red light appears on the presser foot
the foot control must be pressed
continuously during sewing
the speed of the sewing computer will be
regulated by the movement of the fabric
by releasing the foot control the BSR
mode will be stopped
2.
•
•
•
With the Start - Stop - Button
remove the foot control
lower the presser foot
start the BSR mode by pressing the StartStop-button
• a red light appears on the presser foot
• the speed of the sewing computer will be
regulated by the movement of the fabric
• by re-pressing the Start-Stop-button the
BSR mode will be stopped
Holding the Work
• hold and guide the taut fabric with both
hands
• abrupt movements of the fabric (slowing
down, speeding up respectively) can
result in slightly too short or too long
stiches
• continuous movement of the fabric
(no abrupt movements) under the
foot will provide best results
• move the fabric in one direction for best
results
Application Example:
BSR With Zig-zag Stitch No. 2
• the zig-zag stitch can be used for thread
painting or fabric embellishment for
example
• areas can be filled and forms or pictures
created
BSR Function Deactivation
• pull out the plug of the BSR presser foot
connection cable on the sewing
computer. The previously selected stitch is
active again
• remove the BSR foot
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Deactivating the BSR Sewing Function by
using the Start - Stop - Button:
Mode 1:
• if the fabric is not moved for approx. 7
seconds, the BSR mode will be deactived
and the red light on the presser foot goes
off
Mode 2:
• if the stitching process is ended by no
longer moving the fabric, one additional
stitch is made depending on the needle
position. The sewing computer always
stops with the needle up, even if the
arrow on the display points down
84 Personal Program
Programming Screen With Personal Stitches
Use the Personal Program to design a screen with the stitches you use most.
Whether it is made up of stitches for a certain type of sewing, such as heirloom or garment, or
just your favorite practical and decorative stitches or alphabets, this screen will make it easy and
quick to sew any project.
When inserting stitches into the Personal Program, variations of all stitches may be entered into
the Personal Screen.
Programming First Stitch
• select the zig-zag from the Practical Stitch
Menu (referred to on other pages as a
menu), make any desired alterations to the
stitch settings
• touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)
• a special screen appears
• touch the bar «Add to Personal Program»
• the zig-zag stitch is saved in the Personal
Program (including any alterations), the
screen closes
• changes can be deleted again by touching
the «clr»
Programming Second Stitch
• press the Buttonhole button
• select Standard buttonhole (No. 51)
• touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)
• save the stitch as described above
• insert further stitches in the same manner
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Following alterations may be
entered:
• stitch width
• stitch length
• Needle Position
• Thread tension
• Mirror Image
• Pattern Extend
• Balance
• Long Stitch
• Pattern Repeat 1–9x
If the Memory is filled with
embroidery designs or stitch
combinations, stitches cannot be
saved in the Personal Program. A
message will appear to this
effect. Embroidery designs and/or
stitch combinations must first be
deleted.
Personal Program 85
Selecting Stitches in Personal Program
Activating Personal Program
• press the Personal Program button
Personal Screen
• in the personal screen the programmed
stitches are visible (progressive stitch
numbers)
• when more than 9 stitches are
programmed, use arrow to scroll for
viewing additional stitches
Deleting Personal Stitches
Activating Personal Program
• press the Personal Program button
Personal Program Screen
• select the stitch to be deleted
• touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)
• a special screen appears
• touch the bar «Remove from Personal
Program»
Stitch Deleted
• the special screen closes
• the selected stitch is deleted, all remaining
stitches will move along to fill the space
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86 Personal Program
Altering Stitches
Activating Personal Program
• press the Personal Program button
Personal Program Screen
• select the stitch to be altered (e.g. zig-zag)
• alter stitch width and length with the
external stitch width and stitch length
knobs
• the alterations as well as the basic settings
are indicated
• touch the Stitch Altering Area (light blue)
• a special screen appears
• touch the bar «Save Settings» and all
alterations are saved, the special screen
closes
Special Screen
• «Save Settings»: all alterations (stitch
length and width, etc.) of the selected
stitch are saved
• «Reset Settings»: all alterations of the
selected stitch are reset to basic settings
• «Add to Personal Program»: a selected
stitch (with possible alterations) is saved in
the Personal Program
• «Remove from Personal Program»: a
selected stitch is deleted from the Personal
Program
• touch «ESC» – the screen closes without
anything being saved
The possible alterations of the
original stitch setting can also
be altered permanently in each
category.
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Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations - Programming and Saving 87
Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations
In General
Stitches, letters, and numbers can be
combined and stored in the memory system.
The sewing computer has a memory system,
in which the two memories – sewing and
embroidery – can be stored. In the sewing
memory stitch combinations with maximum
50 stitches can be stored in the Drawers as
long as there is free storage space (capacity)
available. It may well be, however, that not all
Drawers can be filled, due to the saving of
many stitches or stitch combinations.
Programming and Saving Stitch Combinations
• select Combi Mode
• the Stitch Altering Area appears with its
functions
• select desired stitch
• alter stitch length, stitch width, needle
position or functions such as mirroring, etc.
if necessary
• select further stitches
• touch the blinking File Drawers button
• the function «Save» is activated (light blue)
• the System Memory Capacity (Free
Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in a
bar top right
• select the Drawer where you wish to save
the stitch combination
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The memory is a long term memory, i.e. the
contents remain in it until deliberately
deleted. A power cut, or switching off («0»)
the sewing computer do not affect the saved
program.
88 Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations - Programming and Saving
Programming and Saving Stitches by Number
•
•
•
•
•
select Combi Mode
touch «0–9» button
enter number of desired stitch
touch arrow to delete individual numbers
touch field above the numeric pad to
delete all numbers
• to confirm and to select further stitches by
number touch «OK»
• touch «ESC» if selection is complete
• touch the blinking File Drawers button
• select the Drawer where you wish to save
the stitch combination
Empty Stitch Altering Area
• if the Combi Mode has already been in use
and the sewing computer has not been
switched off («0») since, the last
programmed or selected stitch combination
appears in the Stitch Altering Area
• empty the Stitch Altering Area by deleting
the combination or open an empty Drawer
to program a new combination
Emptying the Stitch Altering Area in
Steps
• the stitch above the cursor is deleted
• touch the Delete function until the Stitch
Altering Area is empty
Emptying the Stitch Altering Area in a
Single Step
• touch the Multifunction button
• touch «Delete»
• touch «OK» to confirm the message
• the Stitch Altering Area is now empty, and
a new stitch combination can be
programmed
Opening Empty Drawer
• touch the «File Drawers»
• Drawers screen appears
• touch «Open» in the top row
• select an empty Drawer
• the System Memory Capacity (Free
Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in a
bar top right
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This procedure does not affect
stitch combinations already
saved, which remain intact.
Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations - Programming and Saving 89
• the Stitch Altering Area is now empty, and
a new stitch combination can be
progrmmed
• if desired, save the stitch combination
Drawer Content at a Glance
• program a stitch combination
• the corresponding stitch combination is
visible in the Stitch Altering Area
• touch the Multifunction button
• the following is displayed on the screen:
• the complete stitch combination on the left
• next to it is the stitch combination in a
given size; use the stitch width or the
stitch length knob to scroll through the
stitch combination
• on the right the four buttons «Delete
Combination», «Mirror Combination“,
«Preview Combination» and «Combination
Sub-divider»
• touch «ESC» to close the screen
• select «Preview»
• the stitch combination is displayed on
screen
• each stitch can be selected directly, e.g. to
alter it:
• select stitch, SAA appears automatically to
alter selected stitch
• use the arrows to scroll through the stitch
combinations
• touch «ESC» to close the Preview screen
Opening Saved Combination
Opening a Saved Combination
• touch «File Drawers»
• a summary of the saved combinations
appears
• scroll to the desired Drawer if necessary
• touch the desired Drawer
• the saved combination appears in the Stitch
Altering Area
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90 Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations - Corrections
Correcting a Stitch Combination
Deleting the Stitch Last Programmed
• touch «Delete»
• the stitch last entered
is deleted
All alterations always affect the
area above the cursor.
Deleting a Stitch Within the Combination
• use the scroll arrows to move the cursor
below the stitch to be deleted, or select the
stitch directly
• touch «Delete»
• the stitch above the cursor is deleted
• the stitches are automatically recombined
Inserting Stitches
• to activate the desired place, scroll the
cursor or select appropriate stitch directly
• select new stitch
• the new stitch is inserted after the selected
stitch
• to insert a stitch at the very beginning of a
combination, move the cursor right to the
top using the scroll arrow
• select new stitch
• the new stitch is inserted above the cursor
Altering Stitch Combinations
• to activate the desired place, scroll the
cursor or select the appropriate stitch
directly
• select desired function (e.g. mirroring)
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Already saved stitch
combinations can be altered or
corrected in the same way. To
save corrections and alterations
permanently, the combination
must be resaved afterwards.
Saving and Deleting Stitches and Stitch Combinations - Corrections 91
Mirroring Entire Combinations
• touch Multifunction button
• touch «Mirror Image»
• the entire combination is mirrored
horizontally (left/right)
Combination subdivider
• touch Multifunction button
• combinations can be divided into separate
sections with the function «Sub-divider»
• the machine sews the contents of the
section where the cursor is placed
• to sew the next section, place the cursor in
the section to be sewn next
Deleting Drawer
Option 1: Overwriting
• program new stitch combination
• touch the button «File Drawers»
• select the Drawer you wish to overwrite
• confirm the query with «OK»
• the new stitch combination is now saved in
this Drawer
Option 2: Deleting
• touch the button «File Drawers»
• saved combinations appear
• touch «Delete»
• select the Drawers which should be deleted
• confirm the appearing query with «OK»;
deleting will be stopped by touching «ESC»
• the selected Drawers are empty
• touch «ESC» to close Drawers screen
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92 Setup-Program
Setup
The Setup Program allows you to personalize
the touch screen to suit your own
requirements and preferences. For example,
you can adjust the maximum sewing and
embroidery speed.
The sewing computer can be reset and
returned to the factory settings at any time.
After setting the sewing computer to your
personal requirements all changes made in
the Setup Program will be saved, even when
the sewing computer is turned off («0»).
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• menu with Setup options
appears
Leaving Setup Program
• touch «ESC»
• the Setup Program closes
• returns to previous screen
Menu
• the menu lists all features in the sewing
computer which can be altered to suit your
requirements:
1 Display (screen) Settings
2 Sewing Settings
3 Embroidery Settings
4 Display (screen) Calibration
5 Display Messages and Sounds
6 Information
7 Update the sewing computer
8 Reset to Factory
• the customized alterations remain saved
even when the sewing computer is turned
off («0»)
• the alterations can be reprogrammed at
any time
To Next Page
• touch «To Next Page»
• the next screen appears
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To Previous Page
• touch «To Previous Page»
• the previous screen appears
Saving and Closing
• touch «OK»
• changes are saved, the screen
closes and the selection menu
appears
Closing Screen
• touch «ESC»
• the screen display closes, the
original settings remain saved
and the selection menu
appears
Setup-Program 93
Display
1
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• touch «1»
• in the now opened screen the Display
Settings can be changed
Display Settings
Contrast
• turn stitch width knob or touch «+» or «–»
• the contrast of the screen changes
• the changes are indicated by the number in
the bar and the blue background of the
«+» and «-»
• the basic settings are indicated by a dark
bar
Saving and Closing
• touch «OK»
• changes are saved, the screen
closes and the selection menu
appears
Brightness
• turn stitch length knob or touch «+»
or «–»
• the brightness of the screen changes
• the changes are indicated by the number in
the bar and the blue background of the
«+» and «-»
• the basic settings are indicated by a dark
bar
• the «Reset» on-screen button returns you
to the basic settings
Closing Screen
• touch «ESC»
• the screen display closes, the
original settings remain saved
and the selection menu
appears
Welcome Screen
• touch Text bar
• a screen with a keyboard appears
Text in Welcome Screen
• text for the Welcome screen can be written
• the «ABC» on-screen button (upper case) is
automatically active (blue)
• the «abc» on-screen button changes to
lower case
• the «Ä À Á», «ä à á» and «@ #» on-screen
buttons activate special characters in the
upper and lower case
• «1,2,3» activates numbers and
mathematical characters
• the bar below the keyboard is a space bar
and produces spaces between the words or
letters
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• the programmed text appears in the Text
bar above the keyboard
• by touching this Text bar the programmed
text will be completely deleted
• by touching the arrow on the right of the
Text bar, entered text is deleted from right
to left
• touch «ok» to accept changes
94 Setup-Program
Sewing Settings
2
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• touch «2»
• the screen «Sewing Settings» appears
Motor Speed
• turning stitch width knob or touching
«+» or «–» changes the maximum speed. It
increases or reduces the speed by 8-10
stitches
• the number in the bar reflects the stitches
per minute, the basic settings are indicated
by a dark bar
Thread Tension Correction
• turning stitch length knob or touching «+»
or «–» changes the basic setting (0) of the
upper Thread Tension by plus or minus
20%
•
•
•
•
0 = basic settings (factory settings)
1 = + 10%
2 = + 20%
-1 = - 10%
-2 = - 20%
this correction fine tunes the basic tension
setting on your sewing computer, which
may be affected by variables such as
thread weight, etc.
the number in the bar and the blue
background of the «+» or «–» reflect the
changes
the «Reset» on-screen button returns
you to the basic settings
the tension alteration affects all stitches
and remains saved when the sewing
computer is turned off («0»)
Embroidery Settings
3
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• touch «3»
• the screen for adjusting the embroidery
hoop appears
To Next Page
• touch «To Next Page»
• the next screen appears
To Previous Page
• touch «To Previous Page»
• the previous screen appears
Saving and Closing
• touch «OK»
• changes are saved, the screen
closes and the selection menu
appears
Closing Screen
• touch «ESC»
• the screen display closes, the
original settings remain saved
and the selection menu
appears
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Setup-Program 95
Embroidery Settings 1
«Adjust Reference Position» calibrates the
needle to the center of the embroidery hoop.
Adjustments can only be activated if the
embroidery module and the oval embroidery
hoop are attached. It is only necessary to
adjust the Reference Position once as the
same setting changes will apply to all the
hoops.
• insert the embroidery template into the
hoop
• touch «Check»
• the display changes
• the hoop position is read and the needle
positioned in the middle
• if the needle is now not positioned exactly
over the center point of the template, it has
to be adjusted with the arrows
• touch «OK»
• the adjustment will be saved, the display
closes and the selection menu appears
Embroidery Settings 2
• touch «To Next Page»
• in theis screen the embroidery speed can be
adjusted
Thread Tension Correction
• turning stitch length knob or touching «+»
or «–» changes the basic setting (0) of the
upper Thread Tension by plus or minus
20%
0 = basic settings (factory settings)
1 = + 10%
2 = + 20%
-1 = - 10%
-2 = - 20%
• this correction fine tunes the basic tension
setting on your sewing computer, which
may be affected by variables such as thread
weight, etc.
• the number in the bar and the blue
background of the «+» or «–» reflect the
changes
• the «Reset» on-screen button returns you
to the basic settings
• tension adjustments affect all stitches and
remain saved, also when the sewing
computer is turned off.
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Motor Speed
• turning stitch width knob or touching «+»
or «–» changes the basic settings of the
speed by 6-10 stitches
• the number in the bar reflects the stitches
per minute, the basic settings are indicated
by a dark bar
Auto Thread Cutter
• when the bar is active (blue) the upper
thread and bobbin thread are automatically
cut
• when the bar is inactive (x) the Automatic
Thread Cutter is off
• touching the bar «Auto Thread Cutter»
activates or deactivates the function
96 Setup-Program
Touch (Screen Sensibility)
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• touch «4»
• the screen for calibrating the touch
sensitivity of the screen appears
4
Touch Setup
• touch the Calibration symbol
• a further screen display appears
Touch 2
Press and hold stylus on the center of the
target. The target will move. Repeat this
process until all three positions are calibrated
and the screen change back to the original
screen. Save the settings with «OK».
Saving and Closing
• touch «OK»
• changes are saved, the screen
closes and the selection menu
appears
Closing Screen
• touch «ESC»
• the screen display closes, the
original settings remain saved
and the selection menu
appears
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Setup-Program 97
Display Messages and Audio Settings
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• touch «5»
• the screen «Audio Settings» appears
5
Audio Settings
Audio System
• with large left bar the sounds can be
activated or deactivated
• blue background and blue speaker means
that the bar is active
• gray background and red speaker means
that the bar is inactive
Selecting Stitch / Selecting Function / BSR
• the selection of stitches and functions can
be indicated acoustically
• for Stiches (top) touch the bar with the
speaker symbol one or more times
• one to six sound choices will be activated.
The bar is blue and the choice of the
selected sound is indicated by a number
(1-6). The six sounds can be heard
• if the bar is gray and the speaker red, the
sounds for the stiches are inactive
• the sounds for Functions (middle) and one
sound for Quilting with BSR (bottom) can
be turned on and off the same way
• touch «To Next Page»
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To Next Page
• touch «To Next Page»
• the next screen appears
To Previous Page
• touch «To Previous Page»
• the previous page appears
Saving and Closing
• touch «OK»
• changes are saved, the screen
closes and the selection menu
appears
Closing Screen
• touch «ESC»
• the screen display closes, the
original settings remain saved
and the selection menu
appears
98 Setup-Program
Display Messages / Monitoring Functions
• the screen «Display Messages and
Monitoring Functions» appears
• following display messages and monitoring
functions can be turned on or off:
• Upper Thread Control
• Presser Foot Position
• Lower Thread Control
• if the bar is blue and the eye open, the
message and function are turned on
• if the bar is gray and the eye closed, the
message and function are turned off
• the choice of sound is the same as for the
other functions and can be turned on or off
on the screen «Audio Settings»
• the messages/monitoring functions and
choice of sound can be turned on or off
independently (i.e. a message/function can
be turned on without any acoustic sound)
Information
6
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• touch «6»
• the screen «Language Information»
appears with the option to change the
language
Language
• there is a choice of several languages
• scroll through the languages by touching
the arrows
• the active language is displayed in blue
• touch «To Next Page»
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Setup-Program 99
• the screen «Dealer Details» opens
• by touching the designated gray bar, the
following personal information of your
BERNINA dealer can be entered:
• Store name
• Last name, First name
• Phone number
• Website or email address
• touch «To Next Page»
• the screen «Version» opens
• the current version of the sewing computer
and the embroidery module (must be
attached) are visible
• by touching the arrows the version details
can be scrolled
Closing Screen
• touch «ESC»
• the screen closes and the
selection menu appears
Updating the Sewing and Embroidery Computer
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• insert the USB stick (min. 10 MB free
space) with the new software version into
the right side of the sewing computer
• touch «7»
7
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There are two possible ways to
receive new data:
1. as download from the Internet
2. from all authorized BERNINA
dealers
100 Setup-Program
the «update» screen appears
touch «update»
the updating process is started
checks are made whether:
• a BERNINA USB stick is inserted
• there is enough free memory available
• the correct software version is on the
stick
• customer specific data and settings will be
saved and memorized once again during
the process
• if the update was successfully carried out it
will be displayed by a message, and the
sewing and embroidery computer is ready
again for normal use with the new version
• if the update cannot be carried out or
problems should occur during the update
process, this error messages will appear
Caution:
Do not remove the
BERNINA USB stick until
the end of the update is
displayed by a message.
•
•
•
•
Reset to Factory
Opening Setup Program
• press the Setup button
• selection menu appears
• touch «8»
• a summary of the screen appears
8
• two choices are possible:
• Reset to Factory settings
• Deleting Personal Data
• touch «Reset Settings»
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106
107
Setup-Program 101
Reset to Factory
• three choices are possible:
• Sewing
• Embroidery
• All
• touch the on-screen button which you
want to «Reset to Factory»
• confirm the appearing Display Message
with «OK»
• in the selected area the settings are the
default settings and the previous screen
appears
• touch «ESC» until the selection menu
appears
• touch «Delete User Data»
Deleting Personal Data
• three choices are possible:
• Sewing «Personal Program»
• Embroidery «My Designs»
• Embroidery «Memory Stick» (the Memory
Stick must be pluged into the sewing
computer)
• touch the button of which the data should
be deleted
• confirm the appearing display message
with «OK»
• the data is deleted and the screen reverts
to the previous screen
• touch «ESC» until the selection menu
appears
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102 Balance
Balance
All stitches are checked and fully adjusted
before the sewing computer leaves the
factory.
These effects can be corrected with the
electronic Balance so that the stitch formation
can be adjusted where necessary to suit the
fabric.
Different fabrics, threads, stabilizers and
interfacings can affect programmed stitches
so that they are not sewn out properly.
Balance for Practical and Decorative Stitches
When sewing soft fabrics such as jersey or
tricot, the fabric tends to stretch under the
presser foot which also stretches the stitch
being sewn. For example, the Honeycomb
stitch opens up and is too long. Thicker
fabrics might cause the stitch to overlap,
making it too short. Correcting with the
Balance is very easy.
Opening Balance
• touch the function «Balance»
Balance Screen
• the special Balance screen opens
• in the left portion of the screen the stitch is
displayed in its original form
• in the right portion of the screen the
alterations made are directly visible
• the corrections can be made while sewing
(with opened screen)
Saving and Closing Screen
• touch «OK»
• the corrections will be saved
and the Balance screen will
close
Closing Screen
• touch «ESC»
• the Balance screen closes;
returns to previous screen
Corrections
• the stitch sewn on the fabric (e.g. the
Honeycomb stitch) opens up and it does
not look correct:
• turn the stitch length knob (displayed by a
blue symbol on the screen) until the stitch
in the right portion of the screen is identical
with the stitch on the fabric
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Deleting Corrections
• touch «Reset»
• the corrections of the selected
stitches will be deleted
Cleaning and Maintenance 103
Cleaning
If the sewing computer is stored in a cold room, it should be brought to a warm room about
one hour before use.
Cleaning the Stitch Plate
Cleaning the Hook
Lubricating
Periodically remove thread lint and remnants
which collect under the stitch plate and the
hook.
• turn power switch to «0» (off) and pull out
plug from electrical outlet
• remove presser foot and needle
• open the free arm cover
• press the stitch plate down at the back
right corner, lift and remove
• clean the area with the lint brush
• replace the stitch plate
• turn power switch to «0» (off) and pull out
plug from electric outlet
• remove the bobbin case
• clean the hook rase using the brush
provided or a cotton swab. The use of any
sharp instrument could damage the hook
• insert the bobbin case
• turn power switch to «0» (off) and pull
out plug from electric outlet
• squeeze one drop of oil into the hook race
• run the sewing computer for a short time
without thread to prevent oil soiling your
work
Caution:
Disconnect plug from the
socket before cleaning or
lubricating!
Cleaning the Screen and
the Sewing Computer
• wipe with a damp cloth
Enviromental Protection
BERNINA is committed to the protection
of the environment. We strive to
minimize the environmental impact of
our products by continuously improving
product design and our technology of
manufacturing.
At end of life please dispose this product in
an environmentally responsible way according
to the national directive. Do not throw away
this product with your household waste. In
case of doubt, please contact your dealer.
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Never use alcohol, petrol, white
spirit or any type of solvent to
clean the sewing computer!
104 Trouble Shooting
Trouble Shooting
In most cases you will be able to identify and remedy faults by checking the following.
Check whether:
• the upper and lower threads are threaded correctly
• the needle is inserted correctly with the flat side to the back
• the needle size is correct – check the needle/thread table page 17
• the sewing computer is clean – brush out any thread lint
• the hook race is clean
• any threads are trapped between the tension discs or under the bobbin case spring
Upper Thread Breaks
Possible Faults:
• The upper thread tension is too tight.
• The needles are of a poor quality. Ideally
needles should be purchased from your
BERNINA dealer.
• The needle has been inserted incorrectly.
The flat side of the shank must be to the
back.
• The needle is bent or blunt.
• Poor quality, knotted or dried out thread
has been used.
Possible Solutions:
• Use the correct spool disc.
• Stitch plate or hook tip damaged. Take
your sewing computer to your BERNINA
dealer.
• turn on the sewing and embroidery
computer
• as soon as the calibration screen is opened,
release the two buttons
• Calibration of the Display see page 96
Lower Thread Breaks
• The lower thread tension is too tight.
• The bobbin is jamming in the bobbin case:
• Remove and replace the bobbin.
• The hole in the stitch plate has been
damaged by the needle:
• This must be repolished by an authorized
BERNINA technician.
• The needle is blunt or bent.
Calibration of the Display
To open the calibration screen directly,
proceed as follows:
• press both needle position buttons on the
body simultaneously and keep them
pressed
• Needle/thread combination is not correct
(the thread is too thick for the inserted
needle).
• Use hight compensating tool, when sewing
over a thick seam.
Skipped Stitches
• Wrong needles used:
• Use only 130/705H system.
• The needle is blunt, bent or incorrectly
inserted:
• Push right to the top when inserting.
• Needle is of inferior quality or badly
polished.
• The needle point does not suit the fabric
being sewn. If necessary use a ball point
for knitted fabrics and cutting point for
hard leather.
Removing Trapped Thread
If the lower thread breaks and the thread is
trapped in the area of the take-up lever,
proceed as follows:
• power switch to «0» (off)
• remove the screw on the head frame with
the angular Torx key
• pull head frame to the left
• remove remnants of thread
• attach head frame and tighten screw
Cannot Sew Thick Fabric
Sewing Computer Fails to
Run or Runs Slowly
• Plug not properly inserted.
• Power switch in off position («0»).
• Sewing computer has been standing in a
cold room.
• restart sewing computer
Defective Sewing Light
• Please note that the CFL-sewing light must
be replaced by an authorized BERNINA
technician.
Needle Breaks
• Needle clamp screw loose.
• Fabric taken out in front of instead of
behind the presser foot.
• When sewing over a thick area, the fabric
was pushed with the needle still in the
fabric; use Jeans foot No. 8 (optional
accessory).
• Poor quality thread, unevenly wound or
knotted.
• Information on needles see page 17
Faulty Stitching
• Remnants of thread between the tension
discs:
• pull folded, thin fabric (do not use
fabric edge) between the tension
discs and clean them by moving the
fabric forwards and backwards on
the left and right side of the thread
tension
• Remnants of thread under the bobbin case
spring.
• Incorrect threading. Check upper and
lower threads.
• Use the correct spool disc.
• clean and oil the hook race area
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Upper Thread Indicator
Sensor
• not activated in the Setup Program
Lower Thread Indicator
Sensor
• bobbin cover is not closed
• not activated in the Setup Program
• remove any thread lint and remnants from
the bobbin case
Update error
If the update process is at a still stand (hour
glass remains) proceed as follows:
1. Remove the USB stick and turn off the
Sewing/Embroidery computer
2. Turn on the Sewing/Embroidery computer
and proceed with the update as indicated
by a message on the display
Messages 105
Messages on the Screen
In special cases messages may appear on the
screen. They serve as a reminder, warning, or
confirmation of selected applications and
functions.
Message
Notes
Warning
The user must do something, before the
function can be carried out, or the user's
attention will be drawn to a specific fact.
Query
Does the user really want to carry out the
function? For example delete data, etc.
Security Program active
Deactivate if required
This stitch number is not available in the
sewing computer.
Put in another stitch number.
Combi Mode does not support this
pattern.
Stitch No. 5 cannot be selected in Combi
Mode. The sewing computer does not react
when selecting such a stitch.
Switch feed dog to sewing position.
Press the button «Drop feed dog». The
message disappears automatically if the feed
dog position was changed.
Thread breakage, empty spool or lint in
thread control slit area
Check upper and/or lower thread and if
necessary clean bobbin area of lint or stray
thread.
The winder is on.
The winder speed can be changed with the
stitch width knob or the «+» und «-» onscreen buttons. If the winder is turned off or
«ESC» is pressed, the message disappears
automatically.
Lower presser foot
The message disappears automatically if the
presser foot was lowered.
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106 Messages
Raise presser foot
The message disappears automatically if the
presser foot was raised.
Needle will penetrate presser foot or
stitch plate.
Check the settings in the Security screen.
The sewing computer must be cleaned /
lubricated.
Corresponding instructions are on page 103
of the manual.
This notification will appear after approx.
180,000 stitches. After cleaning/oiling clear
the display by touching «OK». The display
can be cleared temporarily by touching
«ESC», but will appear again when restarting
the sewing computer. After clearing with
«ESC» for the third time, the cleaning
notification will only appear again after a
further approx. 180,000 stitches.
Service Notification
The sewing computer must be taken for a
service to a BERNINA dealer.
The notification will appear after approx.
2,000,000 stitches. If the service was done by
the BERNINA dealer, the stitch counter will be
on «0» again and the display does not
appear anymore. The display can be cleared
temporarily by touching «ESC», but will
appear again when restarting the sewing
computer. After clearing with «ESC» for the
third time, the notification will appear again
at approx. 4,000,000 stitches.
Deleting or overwriting data , e.g.
Drawers.
Confirm with «OK» or cancel with «ESC».
Main motor failed. Check hook system.
Remove any thread lint from the hook area /
bobbin case.
Not enough memory on the USB stick.
Deleta data on the USB stick
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Messages 107
Update files not complete.
There is no Personal Data for restoring on the
BERNINA Memory Stick. Please check
whether you have inserted the correct
BERNINA Memory Stick and restart the
sewing computer.
Stored settings/personal data missing.
Repeatedly (3 times) no Personal Data for
restoring was found on the BERNINA Memory
Stick. The automatic update was cancelled.
The software was updated correctly, but your
personal data could not be restored.
BERNINA Memory Stick not inserted.
Insert the BERNINA Memory Stick with the
update data into the sewing computer, and
only remove it when the automatic update is
completed.
The update was not carried out.
The original software version is still on the
sewing computer. Insert the BERNINA
Memory Stick with the update data into the
sewing computer and restart the update.
Check the update data on the BERNINA
Memory Stick. Your sewing computer might
already be provided with the latest software
version.
The update was successful.
The sewing computer is provided with the
latest software version and ready for further
use.
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108 Sewing ideas
Sewing ideas
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Setting up the Embroidery Computer 109
Setting up the Embroidery Computer
Details
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
1
2
3
4
Embroidery surface
Embroidery arm
Embroidery hoop connection
Accessory box
Connecting lug right
Connecting lug center
Sewing computer connecting cable
Cable holder
5
6
Front view
1
8
8
Back view
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7
The side view (handwheel) of
the sewing and embroidery
computer with the cable
connections are shown on page
7 of the sewing computer
instruction manual.
110 Standard Accessories
Standard Accessories*
Large oval embroidery hoop
(145x255mm)
Template for large oval embroidery hoop
VAR. 01 for a640
Medium embroidery hoop (100x130mm)
Template for medium embroidery hoop
Embroidery presser foot No. 26
Net for upper thread spools – pull over
upper thread spool for even spooling
Embroidery bobbin case
Embroidery needle range
Embroidery module bag
USB connecting cable for PC embroidery
software
Embroidery software Editor Lite
* can vary from market to market
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Optional Accessories 111
Optional Accessories*
Small embroidery hoop (72x50mm)
(for normal use and free arm embroidery)
Blue template for normal use
Red template for free arm embroidery
Embroidery Mega-Hoop (150x400mm)
Template for Mega-Hoop, VAR. 01 for
a640
Adapter for free arm embroidery
Straight stitch plate 9mm
BERNINA USB Stick
BERNINA artista software
BERNINA embroidery cards/Magic Box
BERNINA Multiple spool holder
Suitcase system for sewing computer and
embroidery module
* can vary from market to market
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112 Attaching the Embroidery Module
Attaching the Module to the Sewing Computer
Caution!
When connecting the
embroidery module, attention
must be paid that all items are
on a flat and even surface!
Attaching the Module to the Sewing
Computer
• place the module on the sewing computer
behind the free arm
• push the module from the left towards the
sewing computer so that the connecting
lugs engage in the base plate
Releasing the Cable
• the cable connects the module to the
sewing computer
• pull the cable out of the holder on the
back of the module
Connecting the Cable
• plug with flat side to the front
• insert the plug into the socket on the right
hand side of the sewing computer
Removing the Module
• grip the back right corner to lift the
module and remove to the left
Releasing the Cable
• pull out the plug
Storing the Cable on the Module
• insert the cable into both cable holders
• press cable gently to secure
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Caution!
Always separate the module
and sewing computer for
transportation. Never
transport them attached.
Connecting the Adapter 113
Connecting the Adapter for Free Arm Embroidery (Optional Accessory)
The adapter is used for embroidering tubular items (sleeves, trousers, infant items, socks, etc.)
on the free arm of the sewing computer.
Attaching the Adapter to the Sewing
Computer
• push the adapter behind the free arm
towards the sewing computer so that the
connecting lugs engage in the base plate
of the sewing computer
Attaching the Module to the Adapter
• place the module on the adapter with the
front edge of the module as close as
possible to the L-shaped guide on the
adapter
• push the module towards the guide from
the left until the connecting lugs engage in
the base plate of the adapter
Free Arm Embroidery Hoop
• the small, oval embroidery hoop is specially
designed for free arm embroidery
Removing the Adapter
• remove the module from the adapter
• the rear right corner of the adapter is
designed to be used as a grip
• hold the adapter with this grip and remove
from the base plate of the sewing
computer
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Caution!
Only the small hoop can be
used for free arm embroidery.
114 Preparing for Embroidery
Preparing the Embroidery Computer for Embroidery
16
Embroidery Presser Foot No. 26
• attach the Embroidery presser foot
No. 26
• raise the presser foot so that the
embroidery hoop can be attached
17
Needles for Embroidery
• depending on the embroidery thread use
needle size 75 to 90
• use special embroidery or Metafil needle
for embroidery or metallic thread
• use an undamaged needle
• raise the needle so that the embroidery
hoop can be attached
Lower the Feed Dog
• press the button on the right side of the
sewing computer to lower the feed dog
Straight Stitch Plate (optional accessory)
• the straight stitch plate has a small needle
hole. The needle insertion points (upper
and lower thread stitching) are limited,
which produces a better embroidery result
• remove the standard stitch plate and
replace it with the straight stitch plate
19
Threading Upper and Bobbin Thread
Threading the Upper Thread
• attach foam pad and place the upper
thread spool
• when using Rayon or slippery embroidery
threads, slip the net over the upper thread
spool
• this prevents the upper thread from
slipping and gives an even thread feed
Bobbin thread tension
• insert the thread into the pigtail tension
guide for embroidery.
Spool pin
When using metallic or
specialty threads, using the
vertical spool pin and the
supplementary thread guide
(optional accessory) may also
help avoid problems.
13
10
While embroidering the bobbin
can also be wound, just like in
sewing.
Lower thread indicator sensor
will only work when the bobbin
cover is closed, after inserting
the embroidery bobbin case.
(Sensor has to be activated in
the Setup Program.)
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Preparing for Embroidery 115
Hooping the Fabric
Centering
• determine the center of the fabric to be
embroidered
• mark with a fabric marker or chalk
A
B
C
Using the Embroidery Hoop
• loosen the screw(s)
• remove the inner hoop
• the arrows on both hoops should match
• the arrows on the medium and large
hoops are at the center front and on the
right hand side of the small hoop
Embroidery Template
• there is a template for each embroidery
hoop
• the embroidery surface is marked in 3/8”
(1 cm) squares
• the center and corners are marked with
holes for transferring marks to fabric
• place the template in the inner hoop so
that the word BERNINA is at the front (by
the arrows) and can be read
Hooping the Fabric
• place fabric on top of the outer hoop
• place the marked center point in the
center of the template on inner hoop
• match the arrows of inner and outer hoops
• place inner hoop on top of fabric and
outer hoop and press into place, loosening
screws to accommodate fabric. Tighten
screws
• remove template
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• the template will engage automatically in
the inner hoop
• there are finger holes for removing the
template from the small and medium
hoops, and special attachment clips for the
large hoop template
116 Preparing for Embroidery
Embroidery Stabilizers
Tear-away Stabilizers
• similar to interfacing; tears like paper
• one or more layers can be used
• available in different weights
• for more stability, apply to the wrong side
of the fabric with temporary spray adhesive
before hooping
• carefully tear away excess stabilizer from
the back of the embroidery after stitching
• stabilizer will remain under larger
embroidered areas
Application:
• for all woven fabrics and fabrics which are
not elastic
Iron-on Interfacing
• must be preshrunk by soaking in warm
water
• this is pressed (fused) to the wrong side of
the fabric
• iron-on interfacings are available in a
variety of weights and should be selected
to suit the fabric being used
• removable iron-on interfacing is also
available
When using paper backed
adhesive stabilizer make sure
that the adhesive residue on
needle, stitch plate and hook
area is removed.
Application:
• to provide body and shape for fabrics onto
which motifs will be placed
• use in conjunction with appropriate
stabilizer
Adhesive Spray
• Please avoid using adhesive spray next to
your embroidery system
• for more stability, spray the stabilizer and
adhere to the wrong side of the fabric
carefully smoothing fabric so there are no
puckers
• Use adhesive carefully and spray from a
distance of 25cm - 30cm (9.8 inches to
11.8 inches)
Usage:
• Stretch and knitted material: to retain
shape
• Appliqué: position appliqués perfectly
• Two or more pieces of fabric: avoid
slipping of fabric layers
• Fabric pieces: position fabric pieces on
stabilizer, i.e. pocket flaps
• Napped fabrics (i.e. velvet) that should not
be clamped in the hoop because of the
possibility of getting hoop marks
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Cut-away Stabilizers
• one or more layers can be used
• available in light- and heavyweight
• for more stability, apply to the wrong side
of the fabric with temporary spray adhesive
before hooping
• carefully cut away from the back of the
embroidery after stitching
• stabilizer will remain under larger
embroidered areas
Application:
• for all elastic fabrics, especially suited for
knits
Paper Backed Adhesive Stabilizer
• place stabilizer in hoop, paper side up
• use a pointed object (e.g. scissors) to score
the paper and remove it to reveal the selfadhesive surface
• position the piece of fabric to be
embroidered on the stabilizer
Application:
• intended for delicate fabrics such as jersey
or silk
• for hard to hoop sections and fabrics such
as velvets
Spray Starch for Additional Stiffening
• spray starch is ideal for stiffening fine, soft
or loosely woven fabrics
• spray the area to be embroidered, let dry
or press gently with a warm iron
• always use an additional stabilizer such as
water soluble stabilizer on the wrong side
of the fabric
Application:
• ideal for fine, loosely woven fabrics, e.g.
batiste, fine linen, etc.
Important Embroidery Information 117
Water Soluble Stabilizer for Fabric With a
Pile and Lace Embroidery
• water soluble stabilizer looks like plastic
wrap
• dissolve stabilizer in warm water when
embroidery is complete
• water soluble stabilizers are ideal protection
for fabrics with a thick or looped pile such
as toweling
• place on top of toweling and high nap
fabrics backed by appropriate stabilizer for
fabric and motif. This also prevents the
threads from sinking into the fabric and
prevents fabric from showing between
embroidery stitches
• use spray adhesive to fix stabilizer if
necessary
• for fabric with a pile, reinforce with
additional, suitable stabilizer on the wrong
side if necessary
• for lace embroidery place one or two layers
of water soluble stabilizer in hoop (as the
motif is not embroidered on any fabric,
only the thread embroidered motif is left)
• after dissolving lay the motif down flat and
let dry
• water soluble stabilizer can also be
removed by gently tearing it away when
used as a topping on non-washable fabrics
like velvet
Application:
• ideal for toweling, velvet, bouclé knits, etc.
• ideal for fine, sheer fabrics such as
organdy, batiste, etc.
• recommended for use as a stabilizer with
low stitch count motifs
• use heavier water soluble stabilizer to stitch
lace motifs
Important Embroidery Information
Choosing an Embroidery Motif
• simple motifs with a low stitch count are
suitable for embroidery on fine fabric
• large-scale, densely embroidered motifs
(e.g. with multiple color and embroidery
direction changes) are suitable for mediumand heavyweight fabrics
Embroidery Test
• always stitch an embroidery test on a
sample fabric. Adjust color, thread quality,
needle, stitch density, tension, etc. to suit
the motif if necessary
• for the test use the same fabric and
stabilizer that you will use on the project
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Scaling/Sizing Motifs
• motifs can be scaled/sized on the
embroidery computer or with the artista
software on the PC
• to get good results, the motifs should be
scaled within the limits of 75% to 150%
118 Important Embroidery Information
Different Stitch Types
Underlay Stitches
• underlay stitches are the foundation of a
motif and are used to stabilize the base
fabric and hold it in shape. They also
prevent the covering stitches of the motif
from sinking into the knit or the nap of the
fabric
Satin Stitch
• a satin stitch is a dense zig-zag
• satin stitches are suitable for filling small
and narrow areas. They are not suitable for
filling large areas, as long stitches are too
loose and do not cover the fabric properly.
In addition there is the danger that with
too long stitches the threads could catch
on something which would damage the
embroidery
Step Stitch
• a fill stitch with stitches of specified length
sewn in rows used primarily to fill large
areas quickly
Fancy-Fill Stitches
• to give areas a special effect
• stitches that create a motif with an area to
be filled
Outline Stitches
• usually straight or satin stitches
• used to define a specific area or areas
• examples are: straight stitch, double run,
triple run, satin
Jump Stitches
• long stitches that skip over fabric after one
part of the motif finishes and the next
begins
• before and after the jump stitch securing
stitches are sewn
• jump stitches are trimmed before the next
color starts to embroider
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Important Embroidery Information 119
Embroidery Threads
When sewing with metallic
threads, we recommend the use
of the vertical spool pin and the
supplementary thread guide
(optional accessory).
One of the most important elements in
successful embroidery is the quality of the
thread. We strongly recommend that you
purchase thread from a reputable BERNINA
dealer in order to avoid irregularities, thread
breakage, etc. which so often occur with poor
quality threads.
Polyester Threads
Polyester with a brilliant sheen is a hard
wearing colorfast thread and has a high
tensile strength. It is suitable for all types of
embroidery, especially children’s clothing and
items which will be washed often or subject
to much wear and tear.
Embroidery is particularly effective if you use
glossy rayon or polyester embroidery threads
as upper threads. They are available in a wide
range of colors for beautiful embroidery.
Rayon Threads
Rayon is a soft viscose fiber with a brilliant
sheen and suitable for fine, delicate
embroidery, or items that will not receive
excessive wear and tear.
Metallic Wrapped Polyester Thread
Metallic thread is a light- to mediumweight
thread suitable for special effects in
embroidery.
Preferably use with a Metafil 130/705 H-MET
needle or Organ needle of varying sizes.
15
17
Bobbin Threads
Bobbin-Fil (special bobbin thread)
Bobbin-Fil is an especially soft and light
polyester thread suitable for bobbin thread.
This special bobbin thread ensures a steady
thread tension and an optimal intertwining of
the upper and bobbin thread.
Darning and Embroidery Thread
Fine mercerized cotton thread suitable for
embroidery (Mettler 60 weight suggested),
which is embroidered on cotton fabric.
Use white bobbin thread or
match color with fabric.
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Embroidery Needle
• correct size thread must correspond with
correct size needle
• replace needle regularly
120 Requirements / Software
Selecting Embroidery Motifs
Welcome Screen
• after turning the embroidery computer on,
the Welcome screen appears for a few
seconds, provided that a text was entered
in the Setup Program
93
93
«Embroidery Computer» Onscreen Button
• touch «Embroidery Computer» in the
Selection menu
Embroidery Requirements
• a special screen with reference to the
embroidery requirements appears:
• remove embroidery hoop
• attach Embroidery presser foot
No. 26
• raise presser foot
• lower feed dog
• thread the bobbin thread through the
pigtail tension guide of the embroidery
bobbin case
• if all embroidery requirements are fulfilled,
close the screen with «OK»
• the embroidery hoop will MOVE
«USB Stick» Button
• touch «USB Stick»
• the motifs of the stick (optional accessory)
appear in color on the display (provided
that a stick is inserted)
• select a motif by touching the appropriate
on-screen button
• built-in embroidery motifs can be selected
with the on-screen buttons «Alphabets»,
«Motifs» and «My Designs»
Selecting Alphabets
• touch «Alphabets» in the Selection menu
• the different alphabets are visible on the
display
• select one of the alphabets
• a screen with a keyboard appears
Selecting Motifs
• touch «Motifs» in the Selection menu
• the motifs appear in color on the display
• select a motif by touching the appropriate
on-screen button
Selecting My Designs
• touch «My Designs» in the Selection menu
• the saved personal motifs appear in color
on the display
• select a motif by touching the appropriate
on-screen button
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137
Starting to Embroider 121
Starting to Embroider
Selecting the Embroidery Hoop
Edit 1 Screen
• select an embroidery motif from the
various choices of motifs
• the screen «Edit 1» appears
• the selected embroidery motif is
shown in the most appropriate
(smallest possible) hoop
• the «Hoop» on-screen button
shows which hoop should be
attached
• attach the recommended hoop
Attaching the Embroidery Hoop
Raising Needle and Embroidery Presser
Foot
• raise needle and embroidery presser foot
• hold the hoop with the right side of the
fabric up and the attaching mechanism to
the left
Attaching the Hoop
• pass the hoop under the embroidery
presser foot
• squeeze the ends of the attaching
mechanism on the side of the hoop
• position the center points of the hoop
(small attachment clamps) over the bracket
of the embroidery arm
Embroidering Motifs
• touch «OK» or press the Start-Stop-button
on head frame
• embroidery computer moves to check if
hoop is attached
Embroidery Menu
• the Embroidery menu opens with the
embroidery motif
• the embroidery motif is ready to be
embroidered
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• push the hoop down until it engages
• release the attaching mechanism of the
hoop
Removing the Hoop
• press both ends on the hoop attaching
mechanism towards each other
• pull up to remove the hoop
122 Starting to Embroider
Starting to Embroider With the StartStop-Button on Head Frame
• lower the presser foot
• keep the Start-Stop-button on the head
frame depressed until the embriodery
computer starts
• the embroidery computer will sew
approximately 7 stitches and stop
automatically
• a screen indicates that the thread tail has
to be cut at the beginning of the motif
• raise the presser foot
• cut the thread tail at the beginning of the
motif
• lower the presser foot
• press the Start-Stop-button on head frame
to resume embroidering
Starting to Embroider With Foot Control
• lower the presser foot
• press the foot control
• the embroidery computer will stop
automatically after approx.
7 stitches
• a screen indicates that the thread tail has
to be cut at the beginning of the motif
• release the foot control
• raise the presser foot
• cut the thread tail at the beginning of
motif
• lower the presser foot
• when embroidering with the foot control
always keep it depressed
Embroidery Screen
• after starting to embroider the Embroidery
screen appears
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Interrupting With the Foot Control
• when the embroidery computer is
embroidering, press the Start-Stop-button
on head frame or tap the foot control
lightly
• the embroidery computer will stop
immediately
Completing the Color
• lower the presser foot again
• press the Start-Stop-button on head frame
or the foot control again
• the embroidery computer embroiders all
the sections in the color activated
• the embroidery computer stops
automatically when complete
• both threads will automatically be cut
Changing Color
• the embroidery computer is automatically
ready to embroider the next color
• change color of the upper thread
accordingly
• embroider with the new color
Cutting Thread Ends After Embroidery
• raise the presser foot
• remove the embroidery hoop from the
embroidery arm
• cut threads close to the motif
• carefully remove any connecting threads
from the embroidered area
• take care that the bobbin thread is not cut
too closely to the stitch plate when
removing the embroidery hoop
Functions and Displays 123
On-screen Functions and Displays
After turning on the embroidery computer or
changing from Sewing to Embroidery Mode,
the Selection menu appears. This happens
when a motif is selected or combined with an
existing motif.
Return to Selection Menu
• this function appears after
selecting one of the following
functions: «Alphabets»,
«Motifs» or «My Design»
• touch symbol
• Selection menu appears
Closing Special Applications
• this function appears if
changing from the Edit 1
screen back to the Selection
menu
• touch symbol
• the special application closes
• returns to previous screen
Scroll Up
• touch symbol one or more
times
• the screen content scrolls up to
show more options
• touch the symbol continuously
to scroll quickly
Scroll Down
• touch symbol one or more
times
• the screen content scrolls down
to show more options
• touch the symbol continuously
to scroll quickly
Common Functions and Displays
of Screens Edit 1 and Edit 2
Edit 1 Screen
After selecting a motif the Edit 1 screen
appears. In this menu for example new motifs
can be selected or combinations made by
combining designs.
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124 Functions and Displays
Edit 2 Screen
The Edit 2 screen is used to alter motifs (e.g. Rescale Motif
Proportionally, Mirror Image, Rotate Motif, etc.).
Select Hoop
• display of the most appropriate
hoop for the selected motif
• touch on-screen button
• the display «Select Hoop»
appears
• each hoop size is displayed
with maximum stitch field
in mm
Check
• touch symbol
• the hoop moves vertically so
that the size of the attached
hoop may be read in the
embroidery computer
• if only the hoop should be
read, touch «ESC»
• motif stitching area is read with
the 4 arrows
• lower left
• upper right
• lower right
• upper left
• in a stitch combination the
stitching area of the complete
motif but also the stitching
area of the indivudual motif
can be read
• select the desired motif within
the combination with the
symbol «Retrieve»
• return to the Edit menu with
«ESC»
• attached hoop is displayed
• if no hoop or a too small hoop
is attached, an error message
will appear
Motif Center
• touch symbol
• the center of the motif is
indicated by the cursor on the
display
• the hoop will be moved until
the needle is in the center of
the motif
• touch symbol again
• on the display the first stitch of
the motif will be marked again
by the cursor
Motif Size
• display of motif width and
height in mm
Embroidery Time
• display in minutes of the total
embroidery time of the motif
selected
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Possible Hoop Selections (display «Select
Hoop»)
• select hoop (Small, Medium, Large Oval or
Mega)
• the display closes and the selected hoop is
visible on the «Hoop» on-screen button
• by touching «Check Module» the
embroidery module is calibrated (reads the
reference points). No embroidery hoop
must be attached!
• the display can be closed by touching the
«ESC» on-screen button, without selecting
a hoop
Color Numbers
• display of the motif color
numbers
• touch symbol
• the Color Motif display appears
(the display closes by touching
the symbol again)
Color Motif Display
• the color sequence can be
scrolled with the arrows
• the display of the selected
color is indicated in the Color
Information bar as well as on
the screen
• touch the Color Information
bar
• the screen «Change
Color/Brand to» appears
• the current thread color or
brand can be changed
Functions and Displays 125
Zoom
• touch symbol
• the size of the embroidery
motif is altered so that the
complete design is visible
without restrictions
• touch symbol again
• reverts motif back to original
size
Show Grid
• touch symbol
• a large cross hair indicates the
hoop center
• touch symbol again
• because the grid is now visible
the motif can be positioned
more accurately
• touch symbol again and the
grid is switched off
Retrieve
• this function appears only
when combining designs
• touch symbol
• switches between motifs when
combining designs
• active motif is shown in color
• depending on how many times
the function was touched, a
motif or motif combination is
shown active
Add Motif
• touch «Add Motif»
• the overview of the last
opened function (Alphabets,
Motifs, My Design) appears
• select new motif or lettering of
your choice or close display
with «ESC»
• motif is added to motif on
screen
New Motif
• touch «New Motif»
• the overview of the last
opened function (Alphabets,
Motifs, My Design) appears
• select new motif or close
display with «ESC»
Delete
• this function only appears
when combining designs
• touch symbol
• deletes the activated motif, the
next one appears in color
Save
• touch symbol
• the «Save» screen appears
Change Stitch Type
• touch symbol
• a special screen appears
• satin stitches can be changed
to step stitches
• The stitch density can be
altered
To Next Page - Edit 2
• touch symbol
• the Edit 1 screen changes to
the Edit 2 screen
Embroidery Menu
• touch «OK»
• the display changes from the
Edit 1 or Edit 2 screen to the
screen «Embroidery Menu»
• the motif is ready for
embroidery
Edit 1 Screen
133
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135
143
144
126 Functions and Displays
Edit 2 Screen
Rescale Motif Proportionally
• touch symbol
• the blue knob icon for
operating the stitch width
knob appears
• to enlarge the motif turn stitch
width knob clockwise
• to reduce the motif turn stitch
width knob counter clockwise
• display of the alteration in
percent (%)
• to reactivate the basic setting
(100%) of the motif touch the
blue knob icon
Rotate Motif
• touch symbol
• the blue knob icon for
operating the stitch width
knob appears
• to rotate the motif clockwise,
turn stitch width knob
clockwise
• to rotate the motif counter
clockwise, turn the stitch width
knob counter clockwise
• display of the position in
degrees (°)
• to reactivate the basic setting
(0°/360°) touch the blue knob
icon
• touch «rotate motif» several
times and rotate motif
clockwise in 90° steps
(0°/90°/180°/270°/360°)
Move Motif
• touch symbol
• the blue knob icons for
operating the stitch width and
length knob appear
• to move the motif horizontally,
turn the stitch width knob - to
move right turn knob clockwise
- to move left turn knob
counter clockwise
• to move the motif vertically,
turn the stitch length knob - to
move up, turn knob clockwise to move down, turn knob
counter clockwise
• in the blue knob icon the
alteration is displayed in 1/10
millimeter (mm)
• to move the motif diagonally
turn the stitch width and
length knob (the number in
both blue knob icons is the
same)
• to re-center the motif touch
the blue knob icon or touch
«Move Motif» again
Horizontal Mirror Image
(left/right)
• touch symbol
• the motif will be mirrored
horizontally (left/right)
To Next Page - Edit 1
• touch symbol
• the screen Edit 1 appears
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Functions and Displays 127
Embroidery Menu
In the Embroidery menu the motif can be
embroidered and embroidery related
alterations made (e.g. single color / multi
color).
Hoop Display
• display of the attached
embroidery hoop with stitch
field dimensions in mm
Hoop Relocator
• this function makes threading
easier if the thread has to be
changed when the needle is
very close to the left edge of
the hoop
• touch symbol
• the hoop moves horizontally to
the center
• rethread
• touch «ESC»
• the hoop moves back to the
previous position
• touch the Start / Stop - button
and the embroidery computer
continues to embroider
Motif Size
• display of the motif width and
height in millimeters (mm)
Edit 1 Screen
• touch symbol
• the screen changes from the
Embroidery menu to the
Edit 1 screen
Embroidery Time
• display of the total (and
remaining) embroidery time of
the motifs on the upper bar
• display of the embroidery time
of the active color in the lower
bar
• stitch time on both bars counts
down as embroidery progresses
• Number in upper bar:
• the left number indicates
how many stitches there
are in the active
motif/motif combination
• the right number indicates
the total stitch count of
the active motif/motif
combination
• Number in lower bar:
• the left number indicates
how many stitches there
are in the active color
• the right number indicates
the total stitch count of the
active color
Color Information Bar
• information on the current
thread color:
• display of the current
thread color
• position of the current thread
color (1st number)
• number of colors in the
design (2nd number)
• color number of the selected
thread brand
• right and left arrow change the
current thread color
• the hoop moves to first stitch
of current thread color
• the current (active) color can
also be individually
embroidered by touching the
Color Information bar
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Single/Multi Color Motif
• touch symbol
• if the symbol is active, the
complete motif will be
embroidered in one color
(without stopping)
• if the symbol is inactive, the
colors will be embroidered
individually
Embroidery Sequence Control
(i.e. thread breakage)
• touch symbol
• a special screen appears
• in the left portion of the screen
the motif appears in its original
size
• in the right portion of the
screen the motif appears in its
enlarged size
• the embroidery sequence can
be better controlled
• an Information Area for
operating the stitch width and
stitch length knob is displayed
• to check the embroidery
sequence of the motif in stages
turn stitch width knob
• the needle follows the
embroidery sequence in
individual steps
• by turning the stitch length
knob the needle follows the
embroidery sequence in big
steps (approx. 50 steps)
• to follow the embroidery
sequence forwards, turn the
stitch width / stitch length
knob clockwise
• to follow the embroidery
sequence backwards, turn the
stitch width / stitch length
knob counter clockwise
• the number in the Information
Area shows the stitch count of
the embroidery sequence
• to reactivate the basic setting
touch the blue knob icon
• touch «ESC» and the special
screen will close
Thread tension
• touch symbol
• the Thread Tension screen
appears
• the Thread Tension can be
altered
• visible in the on-sreen button
128 External Functions
External Functions
Starting Embroidery With the Start-StopButton on Head Frame
• press the Start-Stop-button on head frame
to start embroidery
Automatic Thread Cutter
• when a color finished embroidering, upper
and lower threads are automatically cut
Slide Speed Control
• the motor speed can be freely adjusted
with the slide
Stitch Width / Stitch Length Knobs
• with different functions such as Alter Size,
Rotate Motif, etc. the external knobs are
used to work on the motifs
• an Information Area appears when the
knobs can be utilized
Embroidery Mode/ Sewing Mode
Button
• changing from Embroidery Mode to Sewing
Mode and vice versa
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Embroidery 129
Motifs
All motifs can be either embroidered directly
or can be combined with the different
functions offered by the embroidery
computer.
Apart from combining designs, it is also
possible to rotate the motifs, to allocate
another thread color, etc.
Basic Information on Embroidering Motifs With no Alterations
Motif Overview
• select desired motif in the Motif Overview
Select Hoop
The most appropriate (smallest possible) hoop
is automatically chosen for the selected
embroidery motif:
• the motif is shown on the display in the
center of the most appropriate hoop
• «Select Hoop» also shows the most
appropriate hoop
View Motif in Detail (Zoom)
A detailed viewing of the motif is possible
with the Zoom function:
• touch symbol
• the size of the embroidery motif is altered
so that the complete design is visible
without restrictions
• touch symbol again
• the motif is reverted to its original size
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130 Embroidery
Embroidering Motif
To change to the Embroidery menu touch
«OK» in the Edit 1 or Edit 2 screen or the
Start-Stop button on the head frame
• the motif can be embroidered by pressing
the Start-Stop-button
Positioning Motif
Positioning Motif in Desired Location
By moving or rotating the motif can be moved
to another position within the hoop.
Preparation
• select desired motif from the Selection
menu
• the motif appears in the Edit 1 screen
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change
to the Edit 2 screen
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Hoop Relocater
• this function makes threading
easier when the needle is very
close to the left edge of the
hoop
• touch symbol and the hoop
will move horizontally to the
center, which makes
threading easier
Embroidery 131
Move Motif
If the knobs are turned slowly
the motif can be moved step by
step (step length = 1/10mm).
• touch symbol
• the Information Areas for operating the
stitch width and length knob appear
• to move the motif horizontally turn the
stitch width knob
• in the Information Area the alteration is
displayed in 1/10 mm
• to move the motif vertically turn the stitch
length knob
• in the Information Area the alteration is
displayed in 1/10 mm
to move the motif diagonally turn the stitch
width and length knob
• the motif is moved diagonally when the
same number appears in both Information
Areas
• to move the motif back to the middle
touch the Information Areas or touch
«Move Motif» again
• if a stitch of a motif is positioned outside
the stitch area, the outline of the hoop is
displayed in red
Rotate Motif
If the knobs are turned slowly
the motif can be moved in 1°
steps.
• touch symbol
• the Information Area for operating the
stitch width knob appears
• to rotate the motif clockwise turn stitch
width knob clockwise
• in the Information Area the position is
shown in degrees (°)
• to rotate the motif counter clockwise turn
the stitch width knob counter clockwise
• in the Information Area the position is
shown in degrees (°)
• to reactivate the basic setting (0°/360°)
touch the blue knob icon
• touch «Rotate Motif» several times and the
motif is rotated clockwise in 90° steps
(0°/90°/180°/270°/360°)
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Checking the Motif Position
With the functions «Check» and
«Motif Center» the motif position
can be checked before
embroidering.
Check
The function «Check» reads the
attached hoop size and stitching
area:
• touch symbol
• the hoop size is read causing
the hoop to move
• «Check» moves hoop with the
4 arrows so that stitching area
of selected motif can be
confirmed
• if no hoop or a too small hoop
was attached, an error
message will appear
Checking Motif Center
• touch symbol
• the exact center of the motif is
indicated on the display
• the hoop will be moved until
the needle is in the center of
the motif
• touch symbol again and on the
display the first stitch of the
motif will be marked once
more
132 Embroidery
Altering Motifs
Mirroring Motifs
Each motif can be mirrored left/right.
Preparation
• select desired motif from the Selection
menu
• motif appears in the Edit 1 screen
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change
to the Edit 2 screen
Mirroring Motifs Horizontally (left/right)
Rotating mirrored
motifs
A wonderful variety of
combinations are possible
together with the function
«Rotate Motif».
Combining designs
If mirrored and unmirrored
designs are combined,
particularly attractive effects and
borders can be designed.
• touch symbol «Horizontal Mirror Image
(left/right)»
• the motif will be mirrored horizontally
Altering Motif Size
Each motif can be proportionally enlarged or
reduced.
Preparation
• select desired motif from the Selection
menu
• the motif appears in the Edit 1 screen
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change
to the Edit 2 screen
For best results, the motifs
should be scaled within the
limits of 75% to 150%.
If the knob is turned slowly the
motif size can be altered
in 1% steps.
Enlarging or Reducing Motif
Proportionally
• touch symbol
• the Information Area for operating the
stitch width knob appears
• to enlarge the motif turn stitch width knob
clockwise
• to reduce the motif turn stitch width knob
counter clockwise
• in the Information Area the alteration is
displayed in percent (%)
• to reactivate the basic setting (100%) of
the motif touch the Information Area
Bernina’s scalable embroidery designs are the most flexible in the embroidery
market. Bernina’s stitch process engines add correct density in the majority of
sizes and positions. However, since there might be an occasion when a certain
percentage of scaling or rotation does not produce a 100% perfect recreation of
the design, it is a good idea to test-sew your edited size and/or position of the
design before you embroider your final product.
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Embroidery 133
Display of the Motif Size
The motif width and height is displayed in
millimeters (mm).
Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop for Adjusted Motif Size
The most appropriate hoop should be chosen
for the motif size:
• touch «Select Hoop»
• a special screen appears with possible
choices of hoops
• by selecting a hoop (Small, Middle, Large
Oval or Mega) the motif is shown in the
appropriate hoop after the special screen
closes
Change Stitch Properties
Change Stitch Properties
• change the following properties:
• stitch type
• stitch density
• touch function
• a special screen appears
• touch the «Convert Stitches» symbol =
the basic setting for the straight stitch (fill
stitch) will be activated
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134
134
134 Embroidery
Convert Stitches (Split Stitch)
The embroidery motifs are filled with long or
straight stitches.
Long stitch:
• alternates from one side to the other
Straight stitch (fill stitch):
• consecutive stitches at regular intervals
• Touch the «Convert Stitches» symbol
• Long Stitch is converted into straight
stitch, max. length 8mm
• Touch the «-» or «+» symbol
• Touch the «+» symbol or turn the Stitch
Width knob clockwise = the maximum
straight stitch length will be increased
• Touch the «-» symbol or turn the Stitch
Width knob counter clockwise = the
maximum straight stitch length will be
decreased
• Touch the «OK» symbol = the selected
straight stitch length will be saved and the
Edit 1 screen will appear
• Touch the «Reset» symbol = the basic
state (8mm) will be activated
• to change the stitches back to long
stitches, touch the «Convert Stitches»
symbol again (field is inactive, grey)
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Note:
In order to make a change,
the original design must be
selected.
Embroidery 135
Altering the stitch density
• Touch the «-» symbol or turn the Stitch
Width knob counter clockwise = the stitch
density will be reduced (fewer stitches)
• Touch the «+» symbol or turn the Stitch
Width knob clockwise = the stitch density
will be increased (more stitches)
• Touch the «OK» symbol = The selected
stitch density will be saved and the Edit 1
screen will appear
• Touch the «Reset» symbol = the motif
will automatically return to its basic state
(100%)
Combining Motifs
Motifs can be combined as desired with the
embroidery computer to create completely
new designs. A combination can consist of
several identical motifs or of different ones. It
is also possible to combine motifs with
lettering.
Application
• combining motif variations
• creating new designs
• embroidering borders
• creating logos, crests, badges, labels, etc.
Preparation
• select desired motif from the Selection
menu
• the motif appears in the Edit 1 screen
• when rescaling, in order to obtain an optimal embroidery result, all motifs in
a combination should be the same size in percentage
• when rescaling within a 90% to 120% range, the size will be adjusted
accordingly (without recalculation of stitches)
• when rescaling under 90% or over 120%, the stitches will be recalculated
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136 Embroidery
Creating Combinations
Adding Another Motif
With the function «Add Motif» another motif
or letter from the selection menu is added to
the existing one:
• touch «Add Motif»
• the summary of the last opened on-screen
button («Alphabets», «Motifs» and «My
Designs») appears
• select desired embroidery motif or change
to the Selection menu with the arrow
«Return to Selection menu»
• select desired field, e.g. lettering, in the
Selection menu
Creating Motif Combination
With functions such as «Move Motif»,
«Rotate Motif» «Mirror Image», etc. the motif
combination can be created as desired.
Selecting Motif Within the Motif
Combination
• touch the symbol «Retrieve» once or more
• switches between different motifs when
combining designs
• active motif is shown in color
• touch «Retrieve» until the desired motif is
activated
Creating / Altering Motif Combination
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change
to the Edit 2 screen and create combination
by altering the active motif (= in color):
• with «Move Motif» move the motif to the
desired position
• in addition other alterations are possible:
scaling, rotating, mirroring, etc.
• the screen displays all changes directly
• to alter another motif of the motif
combination, activate the desired motif
with «Retrieve»
• alter selected motif as desired
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Depending on how many times
the symbol was touched, one
motif or the complete motif
combination is active.
If the indicated hoop
offers too little space,
select a larger one with
the function «Select
Hoop».
Deleting Motifs
• touch the symbol «Retrieve» in
the Edit 1 or Edit 2 screen
once or more until the desired
motif is activated (in color)
• touch «Delete» and the
activated motif will be
automatically deleted
Alphabets - Lettering 137
Alphabets - Lettering
Letters can be combined with other letters or
motifs and embroidered with the embroidery
computer.
Combining Letters
• select desired alphabet from the Selection
menu
• a special screen with a keyboard appears
• the «ABC» on-screen button (upper case) is
automatically active
• in the special screen there are different
functions which take you to the
appropriate lettering:
• the «ABC» on-screen button changes
to upper case
• the «abc» on-screen button changes
to lower case
• function «Special Capital Letters»
• function «Special Small Letters»
• function «Numbers»
• function «Special Characters»
• select desired letters
• spaces can be added by touching the
bar below the keyboard
• the letters appear in the Text bar
Application
• names, monograms and addresses
• words and text
• creating logos, crests, badges, labels, etc.
• labeling quilts (quilt labels)
If your edited lettering does not
fit in the hoop, rotate lettering
by 90º (a large number of letters
can fit into the lengthwise stitch
area of the hoop).
Should this not be of any help,
then change size of lettering or
reduce number.
Correcting Letters
• to delete individual letters touch the arrow
on the right of the Text bar
• letters are deleted from right to left
• to delete letters touch the Text bar
Confirming Letters
• confirm combined letters with «OK» and
the letters appear in the Edit 1 screen
Embroidering Letters With or Without
Alterations
The combined letters are ready to be
embroidered or can be altered with the
different functions as desired.
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129
135
138 Alphabets - Lettering
Altering Lettering
The letters are altered in the Edit 2
screen:
Mirroring Lettering
• touch symbol «Horizontal Mirror Image
(left/right)» and the motif will be mirrored
horizontally
Enlarging or Reducing Lettering
Proportionally
• touch symbol and the Information Area for
operating the stitch width knob appears
• to enlarge the motif turn stitch width knob
clockwise
• to reduce the motif turn stitch width knob
counter clockwise
• in the Information Area the alteration is
displayed in percent
• to reactivate the basic setting (100%) of
the motif touch the Information Area
Selecting the Most Appropriate Hoop for Adjusted Motif Size
The best embroidery results are
achieved by selecting the most
appropriate hoop for the motif
size.
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Alphabets - Lettering 139
Combining Lettering
Letters (for example words) can be combined
with other letters or motifs.
Combining Different Words
The words (for example Nothing Sews Like A Bernina. Nothing.) are put together by the line
and positioned individually:
Putting Together the First Text Line
• select desired alphabet type from the
Selection menu
• a special screen with a keyboard appears
• enter for example «Nothing Sews»
• select letters by using the Upper
Case/Lower Case button and touch the bar
below the keyboard to insert spaces where
needed
• confirm combined letters with «OK» and
the letters appear in the Edit 1 screen
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change
to Edit 2 screen
Positioning First Text Line
• select large hoop (Large Oval) with the
function «Hoop Select»
• rotate text by 90° (more space for text in
hoop) with the Rotate Motif function
• position text with the function «Move
Motif»
• if a stitch of a motif is positioned outside
the stitch area, the outline of the hoop is
displayed in red
Combining and Positioning Further Text
Lines
• select «Add Motif» in the Edit 1 screen
• further text lines will also be combined and
positioned individually as described above
• to determine equal spacing between lines,
pay attention to the numbers in the blue
knob icon function «Move Motif» when
positioning text lines
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140 Alphabets - Lettering
Combining Motifs and Lettering
After selecting a motif the lettering is added
according to the work at hand, or the
lettering is created first and the motif added
afterwards (e.g. embellished text).
Combining Example
• select desired motif in the embroidery
computer
• the motif appears in the the Edit 1 screen
• select «Add Motif» in the Edit 1 screen
• select desired alphabet type from the
Selection menu
• a special screen with keyboard appears
• enter text (e.g. «Flowers»)
• select lettering using Upper Case/Lower
Case button
Altering Text to Suit Motif
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change
to Edit 2 screen
• position the text as desired with the
function «Move Motif»
• alter text size to suit motif with the
function «Rescale Motif Proportionally»
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• confirm combined lettering with «OK» and
the lettering is displayed in the Edit 1
screen above the motif
Adjustments 141
Motif Colors
The motif colors can be changed as well as
embroidered in different ways.
Preparation
• select desired motif from the Selection
menu
• the motif is displayed in the Edit 1 screen
Reallocating Motif Colors
• touch the function «Color Number» in the
Edit 1 or Edit 2 screen
• the Color Motif display opens
• following information is available: display of
current color, current color position (first
number), number of all colors (second
number) and color number of chosen
thread brand
• scroll with the arrows until the color to be
changed appears
• touch Color Information bar
• a special screen for changing the current
thread color appears
• to change the thread brand scroll with the
arrows next to the color brand, until the
desired brand appears
• touch «Thread Brand» = the screen
changes and the altered thread brand with
the corresponding color information is
displayed in the Color Information bar
• to change the thread color scroll with the
arrows next to the thread color, until the
desired color appears, then touch Color bar
• the screen changes and the altered thread
color is display in the Color Information bar
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For a quick selection of a certain
color number, use the function
«Color Selection by Number».
142 Adjustments
Embroidering Motifs in One Color
• touch the Single/Multi Color Motif symbol
in the Embroidery menu
• Single/Multi Color Motif symbol is activated
(highlighted in blue)
• embroidery computer stops only when
motif is complete
Embroidering Lettering in Multi Colors
• lettering is embroidered in one color and
the brush symbol is not visible
• to embroider each letter of a word or each
word of a word combination in a different
color, each letter or word must be
programmed and placed separately
• the embroidery computer stops after each
letter or word, the thread color can be
changed
• the Embroidery Time is displayed for each
color
• to embroider the complete lettering
combination in one color, touch the
Single/Multi Color Motif symbol now visible
Embroidering Individual Color Sections and Manual Adjustment of
Color Sequence
• special effects can be acquired according to
the motif, only when individual color
sections are embroidered (e.g. embroider
only the outlines of the motif)
• scroll Embroidery menu for color sequence
until desired color area is displayed
• the needle is positioned to the start of the
color sequence selected
• embroider color (embroidery computer
stops automatically at the end of color)
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Saving Motifs 143
Saving Motifs
Motifs from the embroidery computer, sticks, embroidery cards as well as motifs created in the
BERNINA artista software, can be combined, rearranged, and altered in different ways, then
saved.
Motifs can either be saved to the embroidery computer or on a stick (Personal Design Stick).
The embroidery computer has a memory system, i.e. both the sewing stitch combinations and
embroidery motifs are saved in this system. Since the memory space is not sub-divided into
fixed spaces, any desired number of motifs can be stored as long as enough free memory is
still available. If there is not enough memory space, other motifs and/or stitch information
must first be deleted.
In a saved stitch combination, individual stitches can be altered after being
selected.
Motifs which have been altered in terms of size and saved, will be regarded as a
new motif when subsequently selected. (That is why all percentages say 100%,
and the original alteration(s) is/are no longer visible.)
Saving to the Embroidery Computer
• open desired motif from embroidery
computer, personal design stick or
peripheral source
• alter or combine motif if desired
• touch «Save» in the Edit 1 screen
• motif to be saved is displayed as «New»
on left of screen
• the Embroidery Computer button from the
Selection menu is activated
• the folder My Designs will open
automatically
• the System Memory Capacity (Free
Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in
the top right bar
• select motif to be saved
• the motif is now saved in the folder
My Designs in numerical order
• the Edit 1 screen appears again
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144 Saving Motifs
Saving to a BERNINA USB Stick
• personal design sticks are available as
optional accessories from your BERNINA
dealer
• open desired motif from embroidery
computer, personal design stick or
peripheral source
• alter or combine motif if desired
• touch «Save» in the Edit 1 screen
• motif to be saved is displayed as «New»
on left side of screen
• insert personal design stick
• select the Stick button from the Selection
menu
• the System Memory Capacity (Free
Capacity) is shown in percentage (%) in
the top right bar
• select the motif to be saved
• the motif is now saved on the personal
design stick
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Saving Motifs 145
Overwriting Motifs
• motifs saved in «My Designs» or on a
personal design stick can be directly
overwritten with a new motif
• open desired motif from embroidery
computer, personal design stick or
peripheral source
• alter or combine motif if desired
• touch «Save» in the Edit 1 screen
• motif to be saved is displayed as «New»
on left of screen
• select the Stick button (personal design
stick inserted) or Embroidery Computer
button from the Selection menu
• touch the motif you wish to overwrite
• confirm the appearing animation with
«OK»
• the motif is now saved in the place
selected before
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146 Deleting
Deleting a Saved Motif
• select from the selection menu either
«Memory Stick» (Memory Stick is inserted)
or «Embroidery Computer» and select the
folder «My Designs»
• touch «Delete»
• select the motif to be deleted in the screen
visible now
• confirm the appearing animation with
«OK»
• the motif is deleted
• cancel deleting with «ESC», the previous
screen appears
Deleting All Saved Motifs
8
• it is possible to delete the content of a
personal design stick or the folder «My
Designs» all at once
• to delete the content of a personal design
stick or the folder «My Designs», the Setup
program must be opened
• touch «Setup»
• the Selection menu appears
• touch «8»
• a summary of the screen appears
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Deleting 147
• touch «Delete User Data»
• in embroidery two choices are possible:
• «My Designs»
• «Memory Stick» (the stick must be
plugged into the embroidery computer)
• touch the button of which the data should
be deleted
• confirm the appearing display message
with «OK»
• the data is deleted and the screen reverts
to the previous screen
• touch «ESC» until the last activated
Embroidery screen appears
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148 Tutorial
Tutorial
Opening Tutorial
• touch «Tutorial»
• a screen with subjects appears
Subjects
• select the desired subject, e.g. Embroidery
Hoops
• Information on the desired subject appears
Text Scrolling
• this symbol indicates that text scrolling on
screen can be activated with the stitch
width or stitch length knob
Back to Subjects
• touch the «Home» symbol
• the first screen (Subjects) of Tutorial
appears
Back to Previous Screen
• touch «ESC»
• Tutorial is closed
• the previous screen appears
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Embroidery Support 149
Thread Breakage While Embroidering
It is possible that the upper thread may run
out or break while embroidering. In this case
the embroidery computer stops automatically
provided that the upper thread sensors is
activated.
98
98
Upper or Lower Thread Breaks
• the embroidery computer stops
automatically when the upper or lower
thread runs out or has broken
• a display message appears on the screen
• check upper thread and rethread
• if necessary remove all lint and fabric
remnants from the bobbin case
• check lower thread and refill if necessary
• touch «ESC»
• to continue embroidering press the
Start-Stop button
Embroidery Sequence Control for Thread
Breakage
• touch «Embroidery Sequence Control»
• a special screen appears
• in the left portion of the screen the motif
appears in its original size
• in the right portion of the screen the motif
appears in its enlarged size
• the embroidery sequence can be better
controlled
• the Information Area for operating the
stitch width and stitch length knob is
displayed
• turn the knobs counter clockwise (or
clockwise) to move the embroidery hoop
backwards (or forwards) in the embroidery
sequence
• turn the stitch width knob slowly to move
the hoop stitch by stitch
Resuming Embroidery
• press foot control or Start / Stop - button
on head frame to resume stitching
• Embroidery screen reappears again
• complete motif
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• turn the stitch length knob to move the
embroidery hoop in big steps (approx. 50
steps)
• the number in the Information Area shows
the stitch count of the embroidery
sequence
• go back stitch by stitch to a position
several stitches before thread breakage
occurred to resume stitching
• to reactivate the basic setting touch the
blue knob icon
• touch «ESC» and the special screen will
close
150 Embroidery Support
Prevention and Remedy of Failures
Note the following advice to recognize the causes of most of the
operation failures in the embroidery computer that might occur.
Check First Whether:
• upper and lower threads are threaded
correctly
• the needle is inserted correctly - flat part of
the shank to the back
• the needle is the correct size (see
Needle/Thread Chart on pages 15-17)
• the embroidery computer is clean - remove
any thread lint
• the hook race is clean
• bits of thread are trapped between the
tension disks and under the bobbin case
spring
Removing Trapped Thread
If the lower thread breaks and the thread is
trapped in the area of the take-up lever,
proceed as follows:
• power switch to «0» (off)
• remove the screw on the head frame with
the angular Torx key
• pull head frame to the left
• remove remnants of thread
• attach head frame and tighten screw
Upper Thread Breaks
Possible Faults:
• upper thread tension is too tight
• use of low quality needle. It is best to buy
needles in a BERNINA store
• needle has been inserted incorrectly. The
flat part of the shank must be to the back
• needle is blunt or bent
• use of poor quality thread, thread with
knots, thread too old or dried out
Possible Solutions:
• attach foam pad
• use appropriate spool disc
• use net for even unwinding of thread (pull
over upper thread spool)
• stitch plate hole or hook tip is damaged:
take the embroidery computer to an
authorized BERNINA dealer
• reduce embroidery speed
Lower Thread Breaks
• lower thread tension is too tight
• lower thread is trapped in the bobbin case:
• Replace bobbin
• needle is blunt or bent
• the stitch plate hole has been damaged by
the needle:
• It must be polished by a BERNINA
Technician
Skipped Stitches
• incorrect needle used:
• Use only 130/705H needle system
• needle is bent or blunt or not correctly
inserted:
• Push all the way to the top when
inserting
• low quality, badly polished needle used
Needle Breaks
• needle clamp screw is too loose
• defective stitch plate
Unsatisfactory Stitch Formation
• remnants of thread between tension discs:
• pull folded thin fabric (use the fold, not
an outer edge) back and forth between
the tension disks to clean the left and
right side of the thread tension
• remove any remnants of thread from under
the bobbin case spring
• adjust thread tension
• used wrong or no stabilizer at all
• incorrectly threaded:
• check upper and lower thread
• when embroidering, thread the pigtail
tension with the lower thread
• use appropriate spool disc
• clean and oil hook (use original oiler only.
See Cleaning and Lubricating on page 103)
Embroidery Computer Fails to Run or
Runs Slowly
• plug not fully inserted
• power switch in «0» (off) position
• embroidery computer has been standing in
a cold room
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Defective Sewing Light
• take the embroidery computer to an
authorized BERNINA dealer
Upper Thread Indicator Sensor
• not activated in the Setup Program
Lower Thread Control
• bobbin cover is not closed
• not activated in set-up program
• remove any thread lint and remnants from
Calibration of the Display
To open the calibration screen directly,
proceed as follows::
• press both needle position buttons on the
body simultaneously and keep them
pressed
• turn on the sewing and embroidery
computer
• as soon as the calibration screen is opened,
release the two buttons
• Calibration of the Display see page 96
Service Data
Service data of the actual condition of your
sewing and embroidery computer can be
saved on a USB stick and sent to your
authorized BERNINA dealer:
• insert the USB stick into your sewing and
embroidery computer
• press the «Setup» button and select the
symbol «i» (information)
• use the «To Next Page» symbol to change
to the previous screen
• touch «LOG»
• data is saved on the USB stick
• remove the USB stick
the bobbin case
Update error
If the update process is at a still stand (hour
glass remains) proceed as follows:
1. Remove the USB stick and turn off the
Sewing/Embroidery computer
2. Turn on the Sewing/Embroidery
computer and proceed with the update
as indicated by a message on the display
Messages 151
Messages on the Screen
In special cases messages may appear on the screen. They serve as a reminder,
warning, or confirmation of selected applications and functions.
Message
Notes
Warning
The user must do something, before the
function can be carried out, or the user's
attention will be drawn to a specific fact.
Query
Does the user really want to carry out the
function? For example delete data, etc.
Lower feed dog
Press the button «Drop feed dog». The
message disappears automatically if the feed
dog position was changed.
Thread breakage, empty spool or lint
in thread control slit area
Check the upper and / or lower thread.
Remove any lint and fabric remnants from
the bobbin case.
The winder is on.
The winder speed can be changed with the
stitch width knob or the «+» und «-» onscreen buttons. If the winder is turned off or
«ESC» is pressed, the message disappears
automatically.
Lower presser foot.
The message disappears automatically if the
presser foot was lowered.
Raise presser foot.
The message disappears automatically if the
presser foot was raised.
The embroidery computer must be
cleaned / lubricated.
Corresponding instructions are on page 103
of the manual.
This notification will appear after approx.
180,000 stitches. After cleaning/oiling clear
the display by touching «OK». The display
can be cleared temporarily by touching
«ESC», but will appear again when restarting
the sewing computer. After clearing with
«ESC» for the third time, the cleaning
notification will only appear again after a
further approx. 180,000 stitches.
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152 Messages
Service Notification
The sewing computer must be taken for a
service to a BERNINA dealer.
The notification will appear after approx.
2,000,000 stitches. If the service was done by
the BERNINA dealer, the stitch counter will be
on «0» again and the display does not
appear anymore. The display can be cleared
temporarily by touching «ESC», but will
appear again when restarting the sewing
computer. After clearing with «ESC» for the
third time, the notification will appear again
at approx. 4,000,000 stitches.
Set feed dog on «Sewing»
Press the button «Drop feed dog». The
message disappears automatically if the feed
dog position was changed.
Deleting or overwriting data , e.g.
Drawers.
Confirm with «OK» or cancel with «ESC».
Change the needle to the highest
position.
Turn the hand wheel and put the needle in
the highest position.
Remove embroidery hoop.
Remove embroidery hoop from embroidery
module.
Attach embroidery hoop.
Attach embroidery hoop to embroidery
module.
Attach Embroidery foot No. 26.
Thread bobbin case
Attach Embroidery foot No. 26 to the
embroidery computer.
For embroidery thread the lower thread in the
finger of the bobbin case
Design ist not completely inside the
hoop.
Position the design inside the hoop.
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Messages 153
Motif does not fit into the attached hoop
Attach a larger embroidery hoop or reduce
the size of the motif
No embroidery module is attached.
Attach embroidery module to the embroidery
computer.
Data transfer
As soon as the data transfer is compledted,
the messeage will disappear and the selected
function will be carried out.
Mega-Hoop up
Move the Mega-Hoop to Upper (1) position.
Mega-Hoop center
Move the Mega-Hoop to Middle (2) position.
Mega-Hoop down
Move the Mega-Hoop to Lower (3) position.
Main Motor failed. Check hook system.
Remove any remnants of thread from the
hook area/bobbin case.
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154 Accessories
Accessories
BERNINA offers a variety of extras (optional accessories) to go with the sewing and embroidery
system artista 640, for new and unlimited opportunities.
Ask your BERNINA dealer for more information.
Suitcase System
Thanks to the suitcase system with integrated
wheels especially developed for the sewing
and embroidery computer, you will be able to
carry the latter with particular ease and
elegance.
The case houses both standard and optional
accessories in conveniently arranged
compartments and bags.
When travelling by plane,
coach or train, the suitcase
system must be transported
as carry-on luggage only! The
suitcase system must not be
transported as normal
luggage!
Suitcase for Sewing Computer
• simply remove bags and compartments to
place the sewing computer in the suitcase
for storage (screen faces front)
• load compartments and bags with standard
accessories and replace
• the bags provide space for additional
optional accessories
Suitcase for Embroidery Computer
• simply remove bags and compartments to
place the embroidery module in the
suitcase for storage (embroidery arm faces
front)
• load compartments and bags with standard
accessories and replace
• the bags provide space for additional
optional accessories
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The suitcase system protects the
computers from dust and dirt, as
well as humidity, for short
distances.
Accessories 155
Embroidery Mega-Hoop
Use the embroidery Mega-Hoop to stitch extra
large motifs, large design combinations, or
long borders with ease.
With the Mega-Hoop three embroidery
positions are possible. If the Mega-Hoop has
been repositioned, the embroidery computer
stops and a message indicates, to which
embroidery position (top, center or bottom)
the Mega-Hoop has to be moved. For artista
640 use the template named VAR. 01
The embroidery Mega-Hoop
includes user instructions!
Embroidery Sticks
In addition to the preprogrammed OESD-embroidery sticks available as a supplement to the
designs already in the embroidery computer, there are «empty» BERNINA USB sticks available
to save embroidery designs or embroidery design combinations.
1
1
Embroidery stick
The preprogrammed OESD-embroidery sticks contain a number of embroidery designs on a
specific theme. The subject areas are continually supplemented and extended.
You will find a large selection under www.embroideryonline.com or at your authorized
BERNINA dealer.
Inserting Embroidery Stick
• plug design stick into the connection
provided on the right hand side of the
embroidery computer (look for symbol)
• designs (only from the folder 640) can now
be opened and displayed on screen
• if a folder with an other name is opened,
an empty screen will appear
• touch the «Arrow» symbol = return to
Selection Menu
Removing Embroidery Sticks
• pull embroidery stick out
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156 Accessories
BERNINA artista Embroidery Software
2
2
PC Connection
Use the BERNINA artista PC software to
combine, extend, and change existing motifs
on a personal computer (PC). The software
even allows you to create motifs all on your
own. The whole design process lies in your
hands: from first draft, to final transformation
into embroidery stitching, the choices are all
yours!
The finished designs you have created are
transferred via a USB connecting cable directly
to the embroidery computer, where you can
embroider them. The USB connecting cable
comes with the embroidery module.
Plugging USB Connecting Cable from the
PC into the Embroidery Computer
• plug USB connecting cable into socket
provided on the right hand side of
embroidery computer (look for symbol)
Embroidery Design (PC) Saving Options
• on PC
• on artista 640 embroidery computer
• on a personal design stick
The BERNINA artista embroidery
software includes user
instructions!
Ask your BERNINA dealer for other accessories
for your embroidery computer!
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN
Warning:
After data transfer from the
PC to the Embroidery
computer or vice versa has
been completed, the USB
connection cable MUST BE
removed from the
Embroidery computer.
Glossary 157
Glossary
Add
• to add means to combine by addition, to
join, to increase
• adding a new motif
auto
• for example in connection with sewing
buttonholes:
• if the length is preprogrammed «auto»
appears, i.e. the buttonhole is stitched in
the programmed length automatically (by
itself)
auto/repeat
• to repeat means to redo, hence auto repeat
redoing something by itself
• keeping the external needle position button
pressed leads to rapid automatic moving of
the needle position (by itself)
Balance
• to balance a stitch or motif means to alter
a stitch to correct distortions
Calibrate
• to calibrate, to gauge, to measure
• calibrating means determining measures,
setting the screen
Check
• to check, to examine, to inspect
• when embroidering, the computer checks
which embroidery hoop is mounted, and
«travels» the fabric to check on the
position of the motif
clr (clear)
• to clear, to delete
• functions or commands can be deleted and
reset to the original position
• the active, altered stitch will be reset to the
basic settings
Edit
• to edit, to write, to publish, to process a
text, to prepare for printing
• motifs are edited on the screen (Edit 1 or
Edit 2), for example mirrored, scaled, etc.)
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN
ESC
• closing a function, going back to original
position (e.g. to original screen settings)
manual
• a manual buttonhole is sewn in four or six
steps (depending on the type of
buttonhole). The sewer manually changes
the positions on screen.
Mega-Hoop
• mega means very large, hoop means frame
• extra large embroidery hoop for stitching
very large motifs or long borders
Memory
• memory, store
• programs and data are saved and prepared
for processing
• the memory of the sewing and embroidery
computer can be used to save e.g. stitch
combinations or motifs
Menu
• summary, overview, selection of functions
New
• to save a new motif in the memory of the
embroidery computer
OK
• confirming the command entered or
change that has been made
PC
• Personal Computer
158 Glossary
recording /counting
• to record, to preserve, to tape
• the stitch counter records or programs the
number of stitches used
• the stitch counter records the stitched
length in the darning program
Reset
• to set again, to put back, to restore
• a change made is undone, i.e. reset to the
original settings
scroll
• to browse
• if a comprehensive file (e.g. Tutorial)
cannot be displayed in full, the «scroll»
tool can be used to display further sections
on screen
Setup
• to determine, to begin
• structure
• in the Setup Program you can for example
determine and adjust the factory settings
to your personal requirements
Software
• generic term for programs (i.e. computer
programs)
• as opposed to hardware, which is the term
used to describe any physical or tangible
components of a computer (e.g. the
casing, motor, etc.)
Touch Screen
• sensor screen
• touch a button (with your finger or a
touch pen) on screen rather than press a
key on the keyboard
Tutorial
• self-help program for learning about
various embroidery computer features
Update
• latest version
• updating the sewing and embroidery
computer software: installing a newer or
the latest version, or updating parts of a
program
Upgrade
• to take to a higher level, to improve, to
promote
• upgrading the sewing and embroidery
computer means improving or extending
its functions
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN
USB
• Universal Serial Bus
• the sewing and embroidery computer
provides for USB connections
Zoom
• to focus on, to enlarge, to rescale
• in the screen Edit 1 or Edit 2 a motif can
be zoomed (zoomed in or zoomed out)
Stitch Summary 159
Stitch Summary
Practical Stitches
Buttonholes
Decorative Stitches
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160 Stitch Summary
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Stitch Summary 161
Quilt Stitches
Alphabets
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162 Stitch Summary
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Index 175
Index
A
Accessories
154-156
• artista Embroidery Software
156
• Embroidery Mega-Hoop
155
• Embroidery Sticks
155
• Suitcase System
154
Accessory Box
4
Accessories Embroidery
110-111
Accessories Sewing
4-5
Alphabets, Lettering
for Embroidery
137-140
• Altering Lettering
138
• Combining Lettering
139
• Combining Letters
137
• Combining Motifs and Lettering
140
• Correcting Letters
137
Alphabets, Letters for Sewing
59-61
• Change Size
61
• Combining Lettering
60
• Combining Lettering and
Functions
61
• Correcting Combinations
60
• Selecting
59
• Selecting Lower Case
61
• Summary
59
Altering Motifs
132-133
Altering Stitch Length
22
Altering Stitch Width
22
Attaching the Embroidery Module
112
B
Balance
Basting Stitch
Blind Hem
Bobbin Case: removing/inserting
Bobbin Thread Cutter
Bringing up the Lower Thread
BSR Freehand Quilting
Buttonholes
• Automatic Buttonhole with
Direct Entry Length or Button
Measuring on Screen
• Balance for Buttonholes
• Buttonhole in
Long Term Memory
• Buttonhole Program Functions
• Buttonholes Summary
• Buttonholes with Cord
• Cutting Buttonholes open
• Important Information
• In General
• Manual 4 or 6 Step Buttonholes
• Sewing Hand-look Buttonhole
• Sewing Round and
Keyhole Buttonholes
102
53
50
10
10
12
80-83
62-75
69
68
73
63
62
65-67
67
64-65
62
74
72
71
• Sewing Standard and Stretch
Buttonholes
• Straight Stitch Buttonhole
Button Sew-on Program
F
70
75
75-76
C
Carrier Bag
4
CFL Sewing Light
13
Changing the Needle
13
Changing the Presser Foot
18
Cleaning
103
Combining Motifs
135-136
Connecting the Adapter for Free Arm
Embroidery
113
Contents
3
D
Darning Program
42
Decorative Stitches
54-58
• Applications
54-55
• Combining Decorative Stitches and
Functions
56-57
• Decorative Stitches in
the Combi Mode
58
• Selecting
54
Details of the Embroidery Module
109
Details of the Sewing Computer
6-7
Different Stitch Types
118
• Fancy-Fill Stitches
118
• Jump Stitches
118
• Outline Stitches
118
• Satin Stitch
118
• Step Stitch
118
• Underlay Stitches
118
Double Overlock Seam
45
E
Edgestitching
Embroidery Design Collection
Embroidery Motifs
Embroidery Stabilizers
Embroidery Test
Embroidery Threads
Enviromental Protection
External Function Buttons
• Altering Needle Position
• Needle Up/Down
• Pattern End
• Quick Reverse Button on
Head Frame
• Automatic Thread Cutter
• Securing Function
• Slide Speed Control
• Start-Stop
Button
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN
40
163-173
129-130
116-117
117
119
103
28
28
28
28
28
28
28, 128
28, 128
Fabric, Needle, Thread
15
Feed Dog
• Feed Dog and Fabric Feed
19-20
• Feed Dog Up/Down
19
• Lowered Feed Dog
23
• Sewing Corners
20
Flat Joining Seam
47
Foot Control
8
Free Hand System FHS
9
Functions General
• clr (Clear)
29
• Combi Mode
29
• ESC (Close)
29, 123
• OK
29
• Pattern Begin
29
• Scroll Down
29, 123
• Scroll Up
29, 123
• Single Mode
29
Functions Special for Sewing
• Alphabet Size
31
• Balance
32
• Continuous Reverse Sewing
32
• Delete
31
• Direct Entry Length or On-screen
Button Measurement
31, 63
• Manual Buttonhole
31, 63
• Memory (File Drawers)
32
• Mirror Image (left/right)
30
• Mirror Image (up/down)
30
• Multifunction Button
31
• Pattern Extend
30
• Pattern Repeat
31
• Programming Buttonhole
Length
31, 63
• Reset Stitch Width and Stitch
Length to the Basic Setting
30
• Save
31
• Securing Function
31
• Security Program
32
• Stitch Counter for
Darning Program
30
• Stitch Selection by Number
32
• Thread tension
32, 127
• Upper Case/Lower Case
32
Functions and Displays
for Embroidery
123-128
• Add Motif
125
• Change Stitch Type
125
• Check
124
• Color Motif Display
124, 127
• Color Numbers
124
• Delete
125
• Edit 1 Screen
127
• Embroidery Menu (OK)
125
• Embroidery Sequence
Control
127
• Embroidery Time
124, 127
• Hoop Display
127
176 Index
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Mirror Image (left/right)
Motif Center
Motif Size
Move Motif
New Motif
Rescale Motif
Proportionally
Retrieve
Return to Selection Menu
Rotate Motif
Save
Select Hoop
Show Grid
Single/Multi Color Motif
To Next Page – Edit 1
To Next Page – Edit 2
Zoom
126
124
124, 127
126
125
126
125
123
126
125
124
125
127
126
125
125
G
Glossary
157-158
Memory Sewing
87-91
• Correcting a Stitch
Combination
90
• Deleting Drawer
91
• Drawer Content at a Glance
89
• Empty Stitch Altering Area
88
• In General
87
• Mirroring Entire Combination
91
• Opening Empty Drawer
88-89
• Opening Saved Combination
89
• Programming and Saving Stitch
Combinations
87-88
Menu Selection
25-27
Messages for Embroidery
151-153
Messages for Sewing
105-107
Motif Colors
141-142
• Embroidering Individual
Color Sections
142
• Embroidering Lettering in
Multi Colors
142
• Embroidering Motifs in
One Color
142
• Reallocating Motif Colors or Thread
Brands
141
H
Height Compensating Tool
Hems with Practical Stitches
Honeycomb Stitch Edges
Hooping the Fabric
20
47
51
115
N
Needle Summary
Needle/Thread Combination
Needle, Thread, Fabric
Needle Threader
17
16
15
12
I
Presser Foot Lifter
Presser Foot Pressure
Presser Foot Pressure Indicator
9
18
18
Q
Quilt Stitches
77-83
• Different Techniques
78
• Freehand Quilting
79
• Hand-look Quilt Stitch
79
• Quilt Stitches Summary
77
Quilting with BSR
80-83
• Activating the BSR
Sewing Function
83
• Application with Zig-zag or
Straight Stitch
83
• Beeper Deactivation/Activation
82
• BSR Function Deactivation
83
• BSR Mode 1
80
• BSR Mode 2
80
• Deactivating the BSR
Sewing Function
83
• In General
80
• Preparation
81
• Selecting Sound in the Setup
Program
82
• Selecting Sound on the
«BSR» Screen
82
• Using Functions in the BSR Mode
81
R
Important Embroidery
Information
117-118
Important Facts about Thread and
Needles
16
Inserting the Bobbin
11
O
Optional Accessories
111
Ribbing with Overlock Seams
Safety Instructions
Saving Altered Settings
Permanently
48
1
23-24
P
S
K
Key to Signs
3
M
Main Category Buttons
• Alphabets
• Buttonholes
• Decorative Stitches
• Embroidery Mode/
Sewing Mode
• Personal Program
• Practical Stitches
• Quilt Stitches
• Setup Program
• Tutorial for Embroidery
Manual Darning
25-27
25
26
25
26, 128
26
25
26
27
27
43
Personal Program
84-86
• Altering Stitches
86
• Deleting Stitches
85
• Programming Screen
84
• Selecting Stitches
85
Piecing Stitch
53
Positioning Motif
130-131
Power Cable
8
Power Switch
8
Practical Stitches
34-53
• Adjusting Individual
Practical Stitches
36
• Practical Stitches in the
Combi Mode
58
• Practical Stitch Seams
36
• Practical Stitches Summary
34-35
• Sewing Knit Fabric
44
Preparing the Embroidery Computer
for Embroidery
114
Presser Feet
5
Presser Foot Indicator
23
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Saving Motifs
• Deleting a Saved Motif
• Deleting All Saved Motifs
• Overwriting Motifs
• Saving to a Personal
Design Stick
• Saving to the Embroidery
Computer
Screen
Seam Guide
Securing Stitch
Selecting Embroidery Motifs
Selecting Functions
Setup-Program
• Display Messages and
Audio Settings
• Display Settings
• Embroidery Settings
• Enter Dealer Details
• Menu
143-147
146
146-147
145
144
143
21
9
39
120
23
92-101
97-98
93
94-95
99
92
Index 177
• Monitoring Functions
98
• Reset to Factory
100-101
• Select Language
98
• Sewing Settings
94
• Text in Welcome Screen
93
• Touch (Screen Sensibility)
96
• Update
99-100
• Version Information
99
Sewing Light-CFL
13
Sewing on Elastic,
Shirring Elastic/Cord
52
Slide-on Table
9
Spool Pin
• horizontal
10, 11, 114
• vertical
13
Starting to Embroider
121-122
• Attaching the Hoop
121
• Embroidery Motifs
121
• Embroidery Screen
122
• Selecting the Embroidery Hoop
121
• Starting to Embroider with Foot
Control
122
• Starting to Embroider with
Start-Stop-Button
122
Stitch Display
22
Stitch Plate
19, 114
Stitch Selection
22, 24
Stitch Summary
159-162
Straight Stitch
38
Stretch- and Reinforced
Overlock Seam
46
Super Stretch/Stretch Seam
46
U
Upper Thread Tension
33
V
Vari Overlock Seam
45
W
Winding the Bobbin
10
Z
Zig-zag Stitch
Zig-zag or Straight Stitch Eyelets
Zipper
41
76
49
T
Temporary Altered Stitch Memory 23, 37
Thread Breakage
149
Thread Cutter
• on Head Frame
12
• on Bobbin Winder
10
Thread Tension
33, 114
Thread, Needle, Fabric
15
Threading the Bobbin Thread
114
Threading the Upper Thread
11, 114
• Double Needle, Triple Needle
14
Triple Straight Stitch
38
Trouble Shooting
104, 150
Tutorial (only for Embroidery)
148
Drawings
Müller-Melzer ID, Kreuzlingen
Design concept, Layout, DTP
Erika Vollenweider
Copyright
2005 Fritz Gegauf AG, Steckborn
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN
06/01 EN 031 508 50 04
Text
Herbert Stolz
031508.50.04_0601_a640_EN