40-50HP Handbook 1911 Appendix II

40-50HP Handbook 1911 Appendix II
Appendix II. - Monthly
34
APPENDIX II
EVERY 2,000 MILES OR
WEEKLY
The Numbers of the Operations correspond
with those in Chapter II.
1. Accumulators.
Do not wait till the accumulators “give out” ; test
them occasionally with a voltmeter ; each element should
record not less than two volts. A cell will work as low
as 1.8 per element, but they should not be allowed to run
lower than 1.9 volts per element. A test to be fair one
should be made immediately after the engine has been
running for at least a minute.
Before unscrewing the terminals, note how the wires
are connected up. Clean the bottom of the battery box on car.
Batteries should be charged about once a month whether
used or not.
See special instructions in Appendix on“Care of Accumulators.” - p. 80, et seq.
2. Sparking Plugs.
In removing sparking plugs always use the special box
spanner provided.
Examine each plug for faults ;(1) The points should not be coated with oil (clean
them in petrol).
(2) The insulation should not be wet, cracked or
coated with carbon.
(3) There shouuld not be any beads formed by molten
metal on the stem, or any sharp corners or “burrs” on
inside end of the plug ; these becoming incandescent
would cause pre-ignitions (Figs. 33 and 34, p. 35).
(4) The gap at the points should be correct ; these
should be set to .02” for magneto and .03” for battery.
A special gauge is provided to ensure accurate setting.
(6) It should be noted that the battery plugs
should be situated over the inlet valves, and the
magneto plugs either over the exhaust valves, or in
later types in the “intermediate” position provided.
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3.
Fig. 33
“BARNACLED” PLUG
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Oil-Well and Filter.
Unscrew with spanner the drain plug fixed in the centre
of the cover of the oil-well A (Fig. 35) and let oil out of
the engine well or “sump” ; then take down and clean the
cover A, the filter B and suction pipe C.
Then replace filter in the well with gauze facing downward, and refix the well, taking care to make a good joint
(with good stout paper) on to the crank chamber ; see
also that the unions of the oil pipes are screwed up tight,
then refill the well with a fresh charge of engine oil from
the side tank up to the overflow level.
Whenever the oil-well, pipes, or pump are taken down
for any purpose and put back again, special care should
be taken when first starting the engine up (after refilling)
to see that the pressure gauge reads correctly, for an “air
lock” may form in the pump, which will prevent the flow
of oil. Should this occur, the pipes should be “primed”,
by uncscrewing one of the crankshaft, and injecting oil
therein by means of the oil-syringe. The unions can then
be refixed and the engines started up again.
4. Oil-Well and Filter.
The drain tap for the water system is shown at E, in Fig. 35.
After the water has ceased to flow (the car being level)
close this tap i.e. vertical position.
Fig. 34
“CLEAN “ PLUG
Fig. 35.
SHOWING OIL-WELL AND FILTER.
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6 and 7. Side Brakes.
Fig. 35.
“PRIMING” THE OIL PIPES AFTER REFILLING.
Re-fill with clean soft water (such as pure rain water),
always using a strainer.
The radiator should not be filled higher than two inches above
the tops of the tubes, neither should the level be allowed to
get much below this. The white line in Fig 37 shows the
correct level.
Fig. 38
REAR BRAKES WITH COVER REMOVED
8. Fan Belt..
If this feels too slack, it can be tightened by loosening
the clamping bolt “ B ” (Fig. 18), and turning the bracket
which is mounted eccentrically by means of pin “C”, then
relocking. Should the lever reach the end of the slot, the
belt should be shortened about one inch.
The “V” belt does not require to be really tight.
9. Engine Supports. (See Fig. 39)
Fig.37.
WHITE LINE SHOWS CORRECT WATER LEVEL
10. Road Springs.
The best method of lubricating the faces of the springleaves is to take out the bolt in spring clip “A” (Fig. 40),
then jack up the chassis frame (see Fig. 41) and separate
the leaves of the spring with the special tool supplied.
Graphite grease can then be worked in between each leaf
with a knife blade.
It is essential that the surfaces of the spring leaves
in contact be kept well lubricated, as this affects vitally the
easy riding of the chassis.
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40
Fig. 41
FRAME JACKED UP SHOWING SPRING LEAVES SEPARATED
11. Air Valve
Fig. 39.
ENGINE SUPPORTING BRACKETS. (SAME ON “OFF” SIDE)
Fig. 40.
FRONT SPRING CLAMP.
This can be removed by unscrewing the milled ring and
lifting off cap with spring attached (Fig. 42).
Fig. 42.
CARBURETTOR WITH MILLED RING AND CAP REMOVED.
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Appendix II. - Monthly
The air valve should be drawn out slowly and carefully
so as not to distort same or bend central spindle.
It should be carefully wiped out with a clean cloth, free from fluff
; avoid any form of lubrication.
The gap carrying the spring should make an air-tight joint
with dash pot.
Fig. 43.
AIR VALVE AND DASH POT REMOVED COMPLETELY.
12. Low-Tension Contact Breaker on Magneto.
The low-tension contact maker on the magneto should
be cleaned and examined carefully (Fig. 21) to see that the
small lever carrying the platinum point is working freely,
and that the platinum points are in good order and correctly set . (The small round cap must, of course, be
slipped off first.) This setting is correct when the maximum break is such that the special magneto spanner
(shown in Fig. 21) will just go in. It is good practice to
carry a spare contact breaker for the magneto.
N.B.- By pulling off the “advance” portion with the
fingers, any correction of this adjustment can be amde ith
the spanner ; the two little rollers which come off with
this portion should also thus be examined and felt to see
if they revolve freely ; use thin clock oil for these.
A defect with the low-tension contact breaker is generally manifest by miss-fires.
Appendix II. - Monthly
42
13. Low-Tension Contact Breaker (Battery Ignition).
To get at this for periodical cleaning, proceed thus :Remove the high tension distributor parts as described on page
32, and remove side cover “E” (Fig. 31)
Fig. 44
LOW-TENSION CONTACT BREAKER.
The low-tension breaker for the battery (of the battery
ignition) is very rarely found to be outof order, but the
following examinations can be made. Having satisfied
yourself that the platinum points “ A ” and “ B ” (Fig. 44)
are clean, flat and true, and that the blade is tightened so
that the platinum-pointed screw is opposite the platinum
on the blade, and that the blade has sufficient set upon
it to push the platinum pointss into firm contact when the
screw is correctly advanced, proceed to set the contacts in
the following manner :- The high-tension distributor cover
“B ” (Fig. 31) and low-tension side cover “ E ” (Fig. 31)
being removed, turn the engine round until the arrow
marked on the distributing rotor is exactly opposite the arrow
on the distributing ring “C” (Fig. 31). Then with the
platinum points screwed well apart, proceed to advance
the platinum screw slowly until the trembler of the induction
coil, by buzzing, indicates that the platinum screw has just
come into contact withthe platinum on the blade, then
check up the small screw on the side which secures it.
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Appendix II. - Monthly
If the trembler is kept lightly set and in good order, this
low-tension contact ought not to require any attention
for a whole season.
When replacing the wires on to the distributor, see
that the number marked on the ebonite of each terminal
corresponds with the figure marked at each hole.
14. High-Tension Distributor on Magneto.
Fig. 45 shows the cover of the magneto distributor
removed for cleaning purposes. Electrical leakage in the
high-tension distributor of either the battery igntion or
magneto causes pre-ignitions, and can generally be cured
by careful cleaning with a dry rag.
Fig. 45.
MAGNETO DISTRIBUTOR WITH COVER REMOVED.
Any defect with the distributor is generally manifest by preignition , wheras if the defect is in the low-tension contact
breaker, it is manifest in miss-fires. When replacing the wires
on the distributor of the magneto, see that the number of rings
cut in the ebonite of each terminal corresponds with the figure
brside each hole.
15. Trembler of Coil.
The coil and trembler should be cleaned and examined,
but if there is anything wrong with the running of the
engine, they should not be touched until you are sure that
everything else in the ignition system is right, as in doing
so the trouble is often made worse. To get the tremblers
into the best working condition is a delicate operation,
and, therefore, they should not be unnecessarily disturbed.
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N.B.- In any case, do not pull the trembler to pieces
until you have opened it with your finger and have seen
that the points are really in bad contact or out of adjustment.
The coil should give a spark 5/16 in. long with engine
stationary, and the trembler should not be touched unless
the coil fails to do this.
The length of the spark can be determined as follows:Insert a steel split pin in the terminal end of the centre H.T.
wire (the one that connects to the centre of the H.T
distributor cover), turn the engine until contact is made in
the high-tension distributor and bring the centre H.T. wire
with split pin inserted to within the necessary distance from
the cylinder walls to obtain a spark.
If one of the platinum points is deeply pitted, and the
other point has assumed the shape of a cone to fit into the
pit, both points should be filed with a very fine file until
they are flat. In order to adjust a trembler, follow carefully the printed instructions inside thelid of the coil-box.
To adjust the platinum points, switch on the battery
current, turn the screw backward until the points are well
apart, screw downwards again slowly, until the coil will just
“buzz”, thengive the screw a further quarter turn which
will ensure good contact and the correct amount of play
for the iron armature, viz. 1/100 of an inch.
Dirt an dust should be kept out of the coil-box, and
the ebonite and fittings carefully dusted occasionally.
16. Re-installing Acumulator.
An accumulator should be left “on charge” till gas is
emitted freely from both positive and negative plates, and
each element shows 2.5 volts (immediately after the charging
has been stopped, this will fall to 2.1 volts per element).
The liquid should cover the tops of the plates by at least
one-eighth of an inch.
When taking over the accumuator after “charge”,
see that the plates are not buckled or blistered, that the
battery case is clean and dry, and that the acid is clear, of
right density and sufficient to cover the plates. BVattery
terminals may be greased to prevent corrosion.
To prevent undue “pitting” of the platinum points, the
direction of current should be reversed, by changing over
the battery terminals, about every 1,000 miles, or each
time the accunulators are being fitted after re-charging.
N.B. - See Appendix VIII., p. 80, for Special Instructions on the Care of Accumulators.
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17.
Fig. 46 Coil Trembler.
45
46
Propeller Shaft.
Fig. 47
FRONT UNIVERSAL JOINT ON PROPELLER SHAFT
Fig.48
REAR UNIVERSAL JOINT ON PROPELLER SHAFT
Particular care must be taken with the lubrication of these
joints ; if they are neglected they will very rapidly wear.
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19. Extra Oil Filter.
The extra oil filter is on the front face of the dashboard,
and can be cleaned by disconnecting the pipe “ A “ (Fig.
49) and unscrewing bottom nut “ B “ (FIG. 49) ; this nut
carries the gauze which forms the filter, which can then
be conveniently cleaned. When replacing filter, make sure
that the spring “ H “ which holds the oil valve “ F “ to its
seat is in position.
The nipples fitted to the threaded unions which are
screwed into cylinder walls should be removed and
cleaned, and the pipes blown through.
ROD
CONNECTED
TO THROTTLE
LEVER
TO OIL
DISTRIBUTOR
GAUZE
OIL SUPPLY
TO FILTER
Fig. 49.
EXTRA OIL FILTER
If oil leaks past the valve stem “ F “, the nut “ K “
should be screwed down slightly. Take care that it is not
tightened sufficiently to hold the valve stem and prevent
the spring from operating it.
The valve should be set to open, when the accelerator
pedal is depressed 2/3 of its full travel.
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