ROVIFLOORS ENGINEERED and SOLID HARDWOOD FLOORING INSTALLATION GUIDELINES

ROVIFLOORS ENGINEERED and SOLID HARDWOOD FLOORING INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
ROVIFLOORS
ENGINEERED and SOLID HARDWOOD FLOORING INSTALLATION
GUIDELINES
Important Information Before You Begin
It is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT that you read and understand this information
completely prior to starting, since improper installation can void the warranties.
Installer/Owner Responsibility
Carefully inspect ALL material prior to installation for defects. Materials installed with
visible defects are not covered under warranty. Remember – Wood is a natural product
that can vary in color, grain, and contains natural characteristics that varies from
plank to plank and is to be expected. We do not warrant against these natural variations
from plank to plank or variations from sample to plank. Remember – If you are not
satisfied with the flooring prior to installation, simply return the cartons to your dealer for
a full replacement. Accepting or rejecting the material must be done on full shipment of
quantities only, not carton by carton or plank by plank.
We urge you, as the final inspector to inspect for proper color, finish, style, and quality
PRIOR to installation. Verify that the flooring is the correct material. Care should be
taken at this time to remove or repair particular characteristics you do not desire.
Manufacturer declines responsibility for any costs incurred when plank(s) with visible
defects have been installed.
TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT NEEDED:
Broom or vacuum
Moisture Meter
Safety Glasses
Tape Measure
Hand Saw
Color Wood Filler
Chalk Line & Chalk
Electric Miter Saw
Loba Hardwood Floor Cleaner
Hammer
3M Scotch® Safe
Release™ 2080 Blue
Mask Tape
Pry Bar
CAUTION: WOOD DUST
The International Agency for Research on Cancer has classified wood dust as a nasal
carcinogen. The sawing, sanding, and/ or machining of wood products can produce wood
dust that can cause respiratory, eye, and skin irritations. Equipment should be equipped
with a dust collector to reduce airborne wood dust. Wear an appropriate dust mask to
reduce exposure to airborne wood dust. Avoid contact with eyes and skin. In case of
irritation, flush eyes or skin with water for at least 15 minutes.
PRE INSTALLATION & JOBSITE CONDITIONS
It is the installer/ owners’ responsibility to ensure that the jobsite conditions and jobsite
subfloor are environmentally and structurally acceptable prior to the installation of any
hardwood flooring. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for failures or
deficiencies of hardwood flooring resulting from or related to sub-floor, sub-surface, or
job-site environmental conditions. All substrates must be clean, flat, dry, and structurally
sound.
• Subfloors must be clean and free of dirt, curing compounds, sealers, drywall mud,
paint, wax, grease, urethane, or other materials that may affect the integrity of the
flooring material or adhesives used to install the flooring.
• All subfloors and subfloor systems must be structurally sound and must be installed
following their manufacturer's recommendations. Local building codes may only
establish minimum requirements of the flooring system and may not provide adequate
rigidity and support for proper installation and performance of a hardwood floor.
Whenever possible install the planks perpendicular to the floor joists for maximum
stability. Our warranties DO NOT cover any problems caused by inadequate
substructures or improper installation of said substructures.
• Test wood sub floors and wood flooring for moisture content using a pin-type moisture
meter. The moisture content of the subfloor should not exceed 13% and the moisture
content of the wood should be within 4% of the subfloor moisture content.
• The moisture content for concrete subfloors registered after a calcium chloride test
should not be greater than 3 pounds per 1000 square feet of area. If it exceeds these
limits, DO NOT install the flooring. Before moisture testing begins, the slab
must be cured for a minimum of 30 days.
• Basements and crawl spaces must be dry. Use of a 6 mil black polyethylene is required
to cover 100% of the crawl space earth. Crawl space clearance from ground to underside
of joist to be no less than 18” and perimeter vent spacing should be equal to 1.5% of the
total square footage of the crawl space area to provide cross ventilation.
• The subfloor must be flat, meeting a minimum of 3/16” within 10’ or 1/8” in 6’.
Concrete subfloors - Grind high spots or use a Portland-cement-based leveling material
(minimum compressive strength 3000 psi) to fill all low spots. Follow the leveling
compound manufacturer’s
INSTALLATION ALERT THE MANUFACTURER WILL NOT ASSUME ANY
RESPONSIBILITY FOR THEABOVE AFTER THIS MATERIAL HAS BEEN
PERMANENTLY INSTALLED.
instruction. Leveling compounds must be allowed to thoroughly cure and dry prior to
installation of wood flooring.
Minimum Subflooring - 5/8” (19/32, 15.1mm) CDX Plywood subfloor/ underlayment
(Exposure 1), 4’x8’ sheets, maximum 16” on center joist construction.
Wood subfloors - For staple down application use layers of 15lb. felt or wooden shims to
fill low spots. Staples must be able to penetrate for holding power.
• All “wet” work – i.e. – paint, drywall, concrete, masonry, plumbing must be complete
and dry well in advance of delivery of hardwood flooring
• Gutters and downspouts should be in place and the exterior grade complete to allow for
proper drainage of water away from the building’s exterior perimeter.
• Flooring should not be exposed to extremes of humidity or moisture.
• Permanent HVAC should be on and operational a minimum of 7 days and maintained
between 65 – 75 degrees and a relative humidity of 35%- 55% prior to delivery, during,
and after installation of the flooring.
• If HVAC is not possible at time of installation the environmental conditions must be at
or near normal living conditions between 60 – 80 degrees and at the average yearly
relative humidity for the area.
It is the Installer/Owner responsibility to ensure that the conditions are acceptable prior to
the installation of the hardwood floors. The manufacturer declines any and all problems
with the hardwood flooring that are related to or attributed to improper jobsite conditions.
Recommended Subfloor Surfaces
Concrete subfloors: Concrete slabs should be of high compressive strength and
constructed to prevent groundwater from permeating the concrete. Engineered hardwood
flooring can be installed on, above, or below-grade. In addition, it can be installed over
above-ground, suspended concrete floors. The suspended concrete must be a minimum of
1 1/2 inches thick and must be structurally sound. The exception to this is lightweight
concrete (which usually contains high amounts of gypsum) having a density of 100
pounds or less per cubic foot. Test for lightweight concrete by using a nail to scratch the
surface of the concrete. If the concrete crumbles or turns to powder, it is not sound and
you should NOT install the hardwood flooring. Use the floating installation method
(products 3” or wider) only for lightweight concrete subfloors.
Wood Subfloors:
Preferred Subflooring ¾” (23/32”, 18.3 mm) CDX grade Plywood subfloor/
underlayment (Exposure 1), 4’x8’ sheets or ¾” (23/32”, 18.3mm) OSB subfloor/
underlayment grade, PS2 rated, sealed side down, with joist spacing of 19.2” (475) on
center or less.
Follow panel manufacturer’s recommendations for spacing and fastening. Typical panel
spacing and fastening for joist systems, 1/8” (3.2mm) around perimeter and fastened
every 6” (150mm) on bearing edges and every 12”(300mm)along intermediate supports.
Installation of flooring should not be made over joists spacing greater than 19.2 on center
or parallel to the joists unless the subfloor has been properly strengthened, applying a
second layer of underlayment may be necessary to bring the overall subfloor thickness to
1-1/8”.
• Test the moisture content of the wood subfloor and wood flooring with a pin type
moisture meter. Wood subfloors must not exceed 13% and the wood flooring should be
within 4% of the wood subfloor.
• For existing wood floors install new flooring at right angles to the existing flooring.
• Do not glue, staple, or nail down hardwood flooring over particle board, floating
application is acceptable (products 3” or wider).
• Do not install over existing glue down hardwood floors. Ceramic tile and terrazzo: All
wax and sealers must be removed with an appropriate cleaner/stripper. Ceramic tile and
terrazzo should be abraded to allow for proper adhesion. Check for loose tiles by tapping
and re-adhere. Fill grout lines with a cementitious latex fortified leveling compound.
Resilient tile, resilient sheet vinyl: Material must be full spread and secured to the
subfloor. Do not install over perimeter glued floors. Do not install over more than one
layer that exceeds 1/8” in thickness.
Nail/ Staple Down Only - If old flooring is unsuitable to install new flooring then overlay
with new underlayment. Test to conclude that the staples/ cleats are able to properly
penetrate and secure the flooring to the subfloor.
Glue Down Only – Do not install over more than one layer that exceeds 1/8” in thickness.
Clean flooring with an appropriate cleaner and allow to thoroughly dry. If necessary
degloss the floor using an abrasive pad to enhance the bonding of the adhesive, if wax or
other coatings are present, completely remove the material with a quality stripper, rinse
the floor and allow to dry. Always check for proper adhesion bond prior to installing.
CAUTION: DO NOT SAND any existing resilient tile, sheet vinyl flooring, or flooring
felt as they may contain asbestos fibers that are not readily identifiable. Inhalation of
asbestos dust can cause serious bodily harm. Check local, state, and federal laws for
handling hazardous material before attempting the removal of these floors.
Acoustic Cork Underlayment: (Glue Down Only) – Install the cork underlayment
according to the manufacturer’s instructions. The cork underlayment must be fully
adhered to the subfloor. The cork underlayment should be of pure granulated cork
combined with a polyurethane binder with a minimum density of 11.4 lbs. per cubic
foot and not to exceed 13 lbs. per cubic foot.
Radiant Heated Subfloors
Prior to installation of flooring over radiant heat system it is important that the guidelines
are followed in strict accordance. Failure to follow the guidelines may produce
unsatisfactory results.
Floating installation methods only, direct glue down is NOT RECOMMENDED.
.. Sub floor must be flat to 3/16” in 10’ or 1/8” in 6’
.. Prior to installation moisture testing must be conducted and documented per ASTM test
method 1869-89 for concrete or using a pin type meter for wood sub floors.
.. The moisture content for concrete sub floors registered after a calcium chloride test
must not be greater than 2 pounds per 1000 square feet of area. If it exceeds these limits,
DO NOT install the flooring.
.. Relative humidity of the jobsite must be maintained between 35-55% relative humidity.
Use of humidification system may be required to maintain the proper humidity level.
Failure to maintain proper humidity level can result in excessive dryness of flooring.
.. It is highly recommended that the radiant heat system be designed specifically to accept
a wood floor
1. Use of an in floor temperature sensor as well as a separate thermostat for the individual
room is required.
2. An outdoor temperature sensor should be used to adjust water temperature according to
anticipated heat loss.
JOBSITE REQUIREMENTS
.. Prior to installation of flooring the radiant system must be installed per manufacturer’s
instructions.
.. Before floating installation of flooring material the follow conditions are required
1. Moisture content of concrete (lightweight concrete) must not exceed 2.0 lbs per CaCl
test method (ASTM1869-89)
Wood sub floors not to exceed 13% and be within 4% of the wood flooring.
2. Concrete must be allowed to properly cure and dry a minimum of 4 weeks prior to
operation of radiant heat system
3. Operation of radiant heat system should be set to run at 2/3 maximum output for a
minimum of 2 weeks prior to installation of flooring to further allow moisture from
concrete to dissipate and reach a final moisture content. This must be done in both
heating and non heating seasons.
4. Prior to installation (4 days) reduce to a temperature of 65°.
5. Install flooring according to floating floor installation guidelines. Use of a 2 in 1
underlayment is required.
6. When gluing planks run a continuous bead of adhesive in the groove on both the end
and length of the board.
7. Remove any excess glue that squeezes out onto surface of the planks with a clean
damp rag. Change rags and water periodically to avoid leaving a haze on surface.
AFTER INSTALLATION & SEASONAL OPERATION
.. 48 hours after completion of installation, slowly raise temperature of the heating system
to its preferred operating level over a period of 5 days. Do not allow the surface
temperature to exceed 82°
.. Humidity level must be maintained between 35%-55% R.H.
.. Seasonal gapping should be expected.
.. Surface checking can be expected if the proper humidity level is not properly
maintained between 35-55% R. H. or if the floor’s surface temperature exceeds 82°.
Pre installation/ Job Preparation
Inspect the Flooring – Inspect material for color, finish, milling, and grade. Hold out
pieces that may not be acceptable once installed. PLEASE NOTE: We do not accept
responsibility for any costs incurred when plank(s) with visible defects have been
permanently installed.
Undercut Door Casings - Undercut all door casings 1/16" higher than the thickness of the
flooring being installed. To do this, use a scrap piece of flooring as a guide. Lay it on the
substrate and cut the casing with a handsaw or use a power jamb saw set at the correct
height.
Blending of Cartons- To achieve a uniform appearance across the entire floor, we highly
recommend that you open and work from several cartons at a time and dry-lay the
flooring, mixing the planks from several cartons. This will allow you to blend the planks
for maximum aesthetic appearance. Make certain the room is well lit to ensure color is
consistent and that any visual defects can be seen and removed.
Match Transition Moldings: For best appearance blend all transitions and moldings to
planks that have similar color and graining. Set them aside for use as needed.
Layout of Flooring: “Racking the Floor” is essential to achieve a random appearance.
Start by either using random-length planks found in the carton or by cutting four or five
planks in random lengths,
differing by at least six inches. As you continue working across the floor try to maintain a
six-inch minimum between end joints. Randomly install different lengths to avoid a
patterned appearance.
Never waste materials; the end cuts from starter rows should be used at the opposite side
of the room to complete rows or used to start the next row.
Expansion space: Expansion space around the perimeter is required and should be equal
to the thickness of the flooring material. For floating installation the minimum is ½”
regardless of the thickness of the material. For commercial installations use a minimum
of ½” expansion.
GLUE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
Additional tools & material needed:
For material 4 1/2” wide or less use a 3/16”x 3/16”x 3/16” square notch trowel
For material wider than 4 1/2” use a ¼”x ¼”x ¼” square notch trowel
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Job
Prep information above.
Getting Started
1. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square
with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the width of two planks including
the tongue plus the space needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion.
2. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
3. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge inside the chalk line to act as a
guide and to prevent the row of planks from shifting during installation. The straightedge
could be a straight piece of lumber or piece of flooring. Alternatively, the first row can be
face-nailed with finishing nails into the wood subfloor or sprig nailed into a concrete
subfloor.
Spreading the Adhesive
Using the proper trowel, hold the trowel at a 45° angle to ensure proper spread rate of
adhesive. Apply pressure to allow the trowel to leave ridges of adhesive on the substrate
with little adhesive left between the ridges. This will help to achieve the proper spread
rate of the adhesive. Temperature and air flow across the adhesive can have an affect on
the open time of the adhesive.
Installing The Floor
4. Spread adhesive from the chalk line/straightedge out to approximately the width of two
planks. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure
into position with the tongue facing the starter wall.
NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps
to appear in proceeding rows of flooring. When you have the starter rows complete, you
can begin the next row. Use 3M blue tape to hold the boards together tight and to
prevent movement or gapping.
5. When you are certain the first two starter rows are straight and secure, spread adhesive
2 to 3 feet wide across the length of the room. As a general rule, never spread more
adhesive than can be covered in 30 to 45 minutes. If the adhesive has skinned over
remove dried adhesive and trowel new adhesive.
6. Continue to install planks and push them into place. Place the tongue of the board into
the grooves of installed boards and press into the adhesive. Use 3M blue mask tape to
hold planks together to reduce gaps and movement. As you continue working across the
floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints. Randomly install
different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
NOTE: Never strike a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the
tongue-and-groove. This practice can damage the flooring and/or the finish.
7. Remove the adhesive from the surface of the installed flooring as you work – this will
help to save time. A damp rag with water or mineral spirits will remove the glue. When
using Urethane clean the floor as you are working using mineral spirits or Urethane
Adhesive Remover – DO NOT USE WATER. Frequently change towels to avoid
leaving a haze on the flooring surface.
8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row – be
sure to allow for the expansion space along the end wall. Once the final cuts are made set
planks into place.
9. After the floor is complete remove the straight edge and glue down the first two
boards.
10. Restrict foot traffic for a minimum of 6-8 hours and wait 24 hours before permitting
moving of furniture onto the floor.
11. Carefully remove the 3M blue tape 24 hours after installation is completed. Do not
wait more than 24 hours to remove tape since it may damage the floor
12. Clean any wet adhesive from the flooring with a lightly dampened clean cloth or
sponge. If the adhesive has dried, use mineral spirits on a clean cloth.
Final Inspection: After the floor has been cleaned, inspect the floor for nicks, scratches,
gaps or planks that may have moved during installation, as well as any other
imperfections that need attention. Touch up nicks and scratches with touch-up products.
In typical climates, the new floor can accept foot traffic within 24 hours. In areas where
additional curing time is required, more time may be needed.
NAIL OR STAPLE DOWN INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
Additional Tools and Material Needed:
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Job
Prep information above.
NOTE: Our products are not warranted against squeaking, popping or crackling when
using staple-down or nail-down installation methods. Some squeaking, popping or
crackling is normal and possible when using staple-down or nail-down installation
methods. These symptoms may be aggravated in arid areas or during dry conditions.
SET UP AND USE OF PNEUMATIC STAPLERS AND NAILERS
Minor occasional noises within the flooring are inherent to all staple/ nail-down
installations and can change as environmental changes occur. This is not a manufacturing
defect and is therefore not covered under our warranties (see warranty brochure for
complete warranty coverage). You can help reduce squeaking, popping, and crackling by
being sure that the subfloor is structurally sound, does not have any loose decking or
joists, and is swept clean prior to installation. You should also be sure that your stapler or
nailer is setting the fastener properly, not damaging the planks, and that you are using the
correct nailing schedule.
When used improperly, staples or cleats can damage wood flooring. If the tool is not
adjusted properly the staples/ cleats may not be positioned at the proper angle and cause
blistering, peaking, squeaking, or crackling of the floor. Some models may require the
use of an adapter to adjust for proper thickness. Test the tool on a piece of scrap material
first - set the stapler/ nailer flush on the tongue side of the plank and install a staple/ cleat.
Should the staple/ cleat penetrate too deeply reduce the air pressure; if the staple/ cleat
is not deep enough then increase the air pressure using an in-line regulator. The crown of
the staple/ cleat should sit flush within the nail pocket to prevent damage to the flooring
and to reduce squeaking. The flooring manufacturer is not responsible for damage
caused by the mechanical fasteners.
IMPORTANT NOTE: Only use manufacturer's recommended staples or cleats.
For 3/8” thick products the minimum length staple/ cleat is 1” For ½” thick products the
minimum length staple/cleat is 1 ¼”
Read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for complete set-up and operation of
equipment.
Getting Started
1. After the subfloor has been properly cleaned and prepped cover the subfloor with 15lb.
asphalt felt paper. This material will help to keep the floor clean and help to retard
moisture from below (there is no complete moisture barrier system for staple or naildown applications).
2. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square
with the room. Measure out from this wall, at each end, the overall width of the plank
(board width + tongue + the space needed (3/8” or ½”) for expansion).
3. Snap a chalk line from these points, parallel to that wall.
4. Install the first row of starter planks along the chalk line/straightedge and secure into
position with the tongue facing away from the starter wall (toward you). Drill pilot holes
through the face of the plank every 6” (in the dark grain); approximately 1” from the back
edge of the board and secure planks with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill
with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface.
5. Blind nail at a 45° angle through the tongue 1”-2” from the end joints and every 6” in
between along the length of the starter boards (Predrill holes to make this easier).
Depending on the width of the flooring it may be necessary to do this for the first few
rows prior to using a pneumatic stapler/ nailer.
NOTE: Proper alignment is critical. Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps
to appear in proceeding rows of flooring.
Installing the Floor
6. Continue to install the flooring making sure to nail/staple 1”-2” from the ends and
every 3” – 4” thereafter. Make certain the tool is adjusted properly to ensure that the
fastener is at the proper angle and is flush within the nail pocket. As you continue
working across the floor try to maintain a six-inch minimum space between end joints.
Randomly install different lengths to avoid a patterned appearance.
7. If needed use a tapping block to help engage the boards together until the tongue-andgroove is flush and tight and no gaps are present between adjacent planks. NOTE: Never
use a rubber mallet or hammer directly on the flooring to engage the tongue-and-groove.
This can damage the flooring and/or finish.
Drill
Tapping Block
Compressor
Air Hose
In-line Air Regulator
Pneumatic Nailer/
Stapler
15 lb. Roofers Felt
8. As you approach the end wall it may be necessary to cut the width of the last row – be
sure to allow for the expansion along the end wall. Once the final cuts are made set
planks into place.
9. The last few rows will need to be fastened by hand. To fasten the final planks into
place, you must either manually blind nail and/or face-nail through the surface on the
final planks. Drill pilot holes at a 45-degree angle to the floor and blind nail using l”
finishing nails. Alternatively, drill pilot holes in the face every 6” (try to drill holes in
darker portion of the wood) and install with 1” finishing nails. Countersink nails and fill
with appropriate colored wood filler – remove excess filler from surface with a clean rag
and proper cleaner.
FLOATING FLOOR INSTALLATION GUIDELINES
(Products 3/8” & ½” thick, 3” or wider only)
Additional tools & material needed:
Before you begin using the following instructions, please refer to the Pre-Installation Job
Prep information above.
6 Mil Polyethylene not required over a vinyl, wood, or a wood product sub floor.
• 6 Mil Polyethylene required over concrete type subfloors – on grade or below grade.
• Do not install over carpet.
• If installing over vinyl, ensure that the vinyl is secure to the sub floor. Do not install
over perimeter glued vinyl.
• If installing over an existing wood floor, install the flooring at right angles to the wood
floor.
• Secure creaking and loose floorboards with screws. • Do not install over wood flooring
glued to a concrete sub floor.
• ½” of expansion space required at all vertical surfaces.
Getting Started
1. Remove all doors and shoe moldings. Undercut all door casings 1/16” higher than the
thickness of the flooring and underlayment to be installed. Place a scrap piece of plank
and a sheet of underlayment against the door casing to act as a guide and cut the door
casing with a hand saw or power jamb saw set to the correct height.
2. After determining the direction to run the planks, measure the width of the room (the
dimension perpendicular to the direction of the flooring). The last row of the flooring
should be no less than 1 ½” wide; if it is less, cut the width of the starter row to avoid a
narrow last row.
3. Select a starter wall. An outside wall is best: it's most likely to be straight and square
with the room. Measure out from the wall, at each end, the overall width of the plank plus
½” for expansion. If the first row requires ripping then measure from the wall the width
of the ripped board plus ½” for expansion.
4. Snap a chalk line using a (brightly colored chalk) from these points.
5. Install Underlayment: Unroll the 6 mil. Poly sheeting overlapping edges 4” and seal
seams with clear plastic tape. Allow the poly to run 2” up the wall and trim back after
installation of flooring. Install 1/8” foam underlayment.
Note: Use of a floating floor 2 in 1 underlayment may be used. Follow manufacturer’s
instructions for application installing the 2 in 1 underlayment.
6. Prior to installing the flooring, secure a straight edge (starter board) inside the chalk
line to act as a guide and to prevent the row of planks from shifting during installation.
The straightedge could be a straight piece of lumber or piece of flooring. This is
temporary and will be replaced as the floor is completed.
Installing the Floor
7. Insert spacers at walls to maintain the expansion space between the flooring and the
wall.
8. Before starting to glue planks, dry lay the first two rows of flooring. Working from left
to right, install planks so that the groove faces the straight edge (starter board). When
reaching the end of the first row, cut the plank as necessary to fit. On the first 4 rows
stagger end joints a minimum of 16” and then 8” thereafter.
9. Use the remainder of the plank from the first row to start the second row. If the piece is
less than 8” long, cut a new plank in half and use that piece to start the second row.
10. Lay the remainder of the planks in the second row. Make sure that the rows are
straight and no gapping exists on the sides or ends. Once you have dry laid the first two
rows, remove all the planks in order. You are ready to begin.
11. Begin gluing the boards; Run a continuous bead of adhesive along the groove of the
short side (width) with Adhesive and glue the plank’s side groove (length) at 6” intervals
using Adhesive. (i.e. glue 6”, skip 6”, and glue) 6”). Proper alignment is critical.
Misaligned starter rows can cause side and end gaps to appear in proceeding rows of
flooring.
12. Install first row of planks with groove facing the straight edge. Work from left to
right. Complete the first row. Make sure there are no gaps between the boards. Use a
tapping block if need to close the boards together. Immediately wipe away any excessive
adhesive with a clean, slightly dampened cloth.
CAUTION: Adhesive that is allowed to dry on the finish surface can be difficult to
remove and may leave a haze.
13. At the end wall use an end pry bar, if needed, to pull the ends of the planks tight.
14. Continue to install the floor working left to right, repeating the process until the
completion of the floor. Continue to use the spacers on all vertical surfaces to maintain
the ½” expansion.
15. If needed after several rows of planks are installed, use 3M 2080 Long Mask Blue
Tape 12” apart to hold the planks securely,
DO NOT USE laminate straps as they may damage the flooring
16. The last row will most likely require cutting to width but it should be no less than 1
½” wide. To do this, lay the plank face up on top of the last full row installed. Trace the
wall contour on the last plank using a scrap piece of plank and a pencil.
17. Install cut planks and pull into place with a pry bar. Install spacing wedges between
planks and wall.
18. Remove the straight edge (starter row) and install the last row using the pry bar.
Allow floor to dry for a minimum of 12 hours before removing all spacing wedges and
allowing foot traffic.
19. Install trim and moldings the following day.
COMPLETING THE JOB – ALL INSTALLATIONS
• Clean the floor Loba Floor Cleaner
• Install transition pieces -i.e. – thresholds, t-moldings, base boards and quarter round.
Nail moldings to wall, not the floor.
• Inspect final floor for nicks and or minor gaps – fill with appropriate color wood putty.
• Leave Warranty and Maintenance brochure with customer.
• Unused material should be left with owner and stored in a dry place in case of future
repairs are needed.
• Use plywood or hardboard when moving heavy appliances or furniture across floor.
Floor Protection During Construction: Always protect the surface of the installed flooring
during construction by laying a quality rosin paper or other paper that will allow the floor
to breathe, taping it to the baseboards. Never use plastic or polyethylene sheeting to cover
the floor since they will trap moisture that will damage the flooring.
Moldings Help You Make Easy Transitions
T-Moldings: Used to create a transition between floor coverings of similar heights or to
cover an expansion gap.
Stair Nosing: Used in conjunction with flooring installed on steps or provide a finished
edge. Secure by gluing and nailing/ screwing down into place. Predrill holes to avoid
splitting.
Reducer Strips: Used to transition floor coverings of differing heights- wood floor to
vinyl, vinyl composition tile, or low-pile carpet. Can also be used to border a fireplace.
Thresholds: Used to transition floor coverings or to create a break between floor
coverings – wood to carpet, can be used as a trim molding around fireplaces or sliding
glass doors.
Shoe Base Moldings: Used to cover the expansion space between the floor and vertical
surfaces. Can be used as a substitute for Quarter Round moldings when space is a
limitation.
Quarter Round Moldings: Used to cover the expansion space between the Wall Base and
your hardwood floor. You can also use them to make smooth transitions between the
floor and cabinetry.
Wall Base Moldings: Can be stained and finished to the color of the flooring to be used
an alternative to painted baseboards.
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