1196 -- 1990 to 1993
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
¥ VIEWING DOOR MUST BE CLOSED AND
LATCHED DURING OPERATION.
¥ NEVER BLOCK FREE AIRFLOW THROUGH
OPEN VENTS.
¥ THE APPLIANCE IS DESIGNED AND
APPROVED FOR BURNING OF WOOD ONLY.
THE BURNING OF ANY TYPE FUEL OTHER
THAN WOOD WILL VOID ALL WARRANTIES
AND SAFETY LISTING OF THE APPLIANCE.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BURN ANY OTHER
FUEL THAN SPECIFIED IN THIS MANUAL.
¥ ASHES MUST BE DISPOSED OF IN A METAL
CONTAINER WITH A TIGHT FITTING LID, AND
PLACED ON A NON-COMBUSTIBLE
SURFACE BEFORE FINAL DISPOSAL.
¥ NEVER TRY TO REPAIR OR REPLACE ANY
PART OF THE APPLIANCE UNLESS
INSTRUCTIONS ARE GIVEN IN THIS
MANUAL. ALL OTHER WORK SHOULD BE
DONE BY A TRAINED TECHNICIAN.
¥ THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE PROPERLY
INSTALLED IN ORDER TO PREVENT THE
POSSIBILITY OF A HOUSE FIRE. FOR YOUR
SAFETY THE INSTALLATION
INSTRUCTIONS MUST BE STRICTLY
ADHERED TO. DO NOT USE MAKESHIFT
METHODS OR COMPROMISE IN
INSTALLATION.
¥ DO NOT MAKE ANY CHANGES OR
MODIFICATIONS TO THE APPLIANCE OR AN
EXISTING MASONRY FIREPLACE OR
CHIMNEY TO INSTALL THIS APPLIANCE.
¥ WAIT UNTIL THE APPLIANCE HAS COOLED
BEFORE CARRYING OUT MAINTENANCE
PROCEDURES.
¥ THE FLUE SYSTEM SHOULD BE CHECKED
TWICE A YEAR MINIMUM FOR ANY BUILDUP OF SOOT OR CREOSOTE.
¥ CONTACT YOUR LOCAL BUILDING
OFFICIALS TO OBTAIN A PERMIT AND
INFORMATION ON ANY INSTALLATION
RESTRICTIONS OR INSPECTION
REQUIREMENTS IN YOUR AREA. ALSO,
NOTIFY YOUR INSURANCE COMPANY THAT
YOU ARE INSTALLING YOUR WARNOCK
HERSEY LISTED STOVE OR INSERT.
¥ GASOLINE OR OTHER FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS
MUST NEVER BE USED TO START THE FIRE
OR "FRESHEN-UP" THE FIRE. DO NOT
STORE OR USE GASOLINE OR OTHER
FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS IN THE VICINITY OF
THIS APPLIANCE.
¥ THIS APPLIANCE MUST BE CONNECTED TO
A LISTED HIGH TEMPERATURE
RESIDENTIAL TYPE CHIMNEY OR AN
APPROVED MASONRY CHIMNEY WITH A
STANDARD CLAY, TILE, OR STAINLESS
STEEL LINER.
¥ TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. GRANTS NO
WARRANTY, IMPLIED OR STATED, FOR THE
INSTALLATION OR MAINTENANCE OF YOUR
APPLIANCE, AND ASSUMES NO
RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY
CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGE(S).
¥ ALWAYS FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS IN
THE OWNER'S MANUAL.
¥ KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR LATER USE.
¥ DO NOT INSTALL IN A SLEEPING ROOM
WHEN INSTALLING IN A MOBILE HOME.
¥ DO NOT CONNECT THIS APPLIANCE TO
ANY CHIMNEY SERVING ANOTHER
APPLIANCE.
¥ KEEP FURNITURE, DRAPES, CURTAINS,
WOOD, PAPER AND OTHER
COMBUSTIBLES A MINIMUM OF 36" AWAY
FROM THE APPLIANCE.
Page 2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Page
IMPORTANT INFORMATION
INTRODUCTION................................................................................................................... ...................1
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS...........................................................................................................................2
FEATURES AND SPECIFICATIONS ............................................................................................................4
CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS .................................................................................................5
The 3-Foot, 2-Foot, 10-Foot Rule ..........................................................................................................5
Factory-Built Chimneys ......................................................................................................................6
Determining the Distance Between the Chimney and Combustibles..............................................................6
Masonry Chimneys ............................................................................................................................7
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION
FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT ...................................................................................................8
PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING .................................................................................13
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS ....................................................................................14
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION ...............................................................................................................16
Standard Ceiling Installation ................................................................................................................16
Cathedral Ceiling Installation ...............................................................................................................17
Horizontal Installation Into Factory-Built Chimney ....................................................................................18
Hearth Stove Installation Using a Positive Connection ..............................................................................19
Hearth Stove Installation Using a Direct Connection .................................................................................21
Hearth Stove Installation Using a Horizontal Connection ...........................................................................23
Mobile Home Installation .....................................................................................................................25
Alcove Installation.............................................................................................................................26
INSERT INSTALLATION
INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT ...............................................................................................................27
PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT ............................................................31
FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS .....................................................................................................32
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION ...........................................................................................34
Installation Using a Direct Connection ...................................................................................................34
Installation Using a Positive Connection ................................................................................................36
Installation Using a Face Seal Connection ..............................................................................................38
INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE ...................................................................................39
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE ................................................................................................................41
Location and Use of Controls ...............................................................................................................41
Burning Procedure.............................................................................................................................42
Burning Your Appliance Efficiently........................................................................................................43
Daily Use of Your Appliance.................................................................................................................44
Wood ..............................................................................................................................................45
Seasoning Wood ...............................................................................................................................46
Storing Wood....................................................................................................................................47
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
CARE AND MAINTENANCE .......................................................................................................................50
Maintenance Schedule .......................................................................................................................50
Maintenance Instructions ...................................................................................................................50
BEFORE CALLING FOR SERVICE
BEFORE CALLING FOR SERVICE ..............................................................................................................55
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
Replacement Parts ............................................................................................................................54
Removal Instructions .........................................................................................................................54
5-YEAR WARRANTY ................................................................................................................................61
SAFETY LABEL ......................................................................................................................................62
Page 3
FEATURES AND SPECIFICATIONS
* EPA Phase II Approved
CONVENIENT
* Large Firebox Capacity - 2.5 cu. ft.
HIGH HEAT OUTPUT
* 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16" Steel Plate
Construction
VERSATILE
* Long Burn time - Up to 12 Hours
* Heavy Duty Firebrick Lining
* Conveniently Located Single Push-Pull
Combustion Air Control
CLOSE CLEARANCES
DURABLE
* 22" Log Length Capacity
Heating Capacity ............................................................................1,500 to 2,250 sq. ft.
Maximum B.T.U.'s/hr ......................................................................72,300 (Cord Wood)
Overall Efficiency ............................................................................70.3 % (Oregon Method)
Emissions grams/hr........................................................................7.4 (EPA Method)
Maximum Burning Time (Hours)..................................................10 to 12
Flue Opening Diameter ................................................................6 in.
Height from floor to top of stove on:
Steel Legs..................................................................................27 3/4 in.
Brass Legs .................................................................................29 1/8 in.
Cast Legs ...................................................................................29 1/8 in.
Pedestal......................................................................................32 3/4 in.
Overall Width ...................................................................................29 1/4 in.
Overall Depth...................................................................................25 in. (Including Ashlip)
Weight...............................................................................................520 lbs. (On Pedestal)
Fuel....................................................................................................Solid Wood Only
Emissions, Efficiency, Heating Capacity and Burn Times may vary depending on actual
home floor plan, type of fuel used, and moisture content of wood. Emissions and
efficiency numbers are those that have been certified by the U.S. E.P.A. and the Oregon
Department of Environmental Quality.
Page 4
CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS
Whether you install your wood heating appliance with a factory-built chimney or masonry chimney, there
are certain rules that must be followed. The following guidelines for chimney installation are included in
this manual to augment the information supplied with either the manufacturer's information for factory-built
chimneys or to insure that your present masonry chimney is suitable for this wood heating appliance. Do
not use makeshift methods or compromise in installation of any chimney equipment.
The 3-Foot, 2-Foot, 10-Foot Rule
The 3-foot, 2-foot, 10-foot rule states that all chimneys (factory-built or masonry) must be:
1.
At least 3 feet higher than the highest part of the roof opening through which it passes;
2.
And at least 2 feet higher than any part of the roof within 10 feet, measured horizontally. A chimney
must meet requirement #1 and requirement #2. This rule, required by all building codes, applies to
both factory-built and masonry chimneys.
Minimum Chimney Height on a Sloped Roof
Ridge
2' Minimum
3' Minimum
10'
Minimum Chimney Height on a Flat Roof
Less
Than 10'
10' or Greater
24"
Wall or
Parapet
42"
36"
6"
18"
"A"
"B"
These minimum chimney heights are required by building codes for safety purposes, to allow time for
sparks exiting a chimney to cool before they land on the roof. In some problematic situations, additional
chimney height above the specified minimums may be necessary to reduce wind-induced down drafting
and back puffing, or to increase draft, thereby improving appliance operating characteristics.
Page 5
CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS (Cont.)
Factory-Built Chimneys
Depending on the manufacturer and where the chimney is to be installed, special supports, roof
assemblies, radiation shields, or locking bands may be supplied as a part of the chimney system. The
manufacturer's installation instructions, which are reviewed by the listing agency, specifies when and
where each of these components must be used.
There are three standard installations with factory-built chimneys. Each type of installation should use
flashing and an adjustable storm collar at the roof line to prevent water from entering the house.
Manufacturers require that chimneys extending beyond a certain height above the roof (frequently above
5 feet) must also be braced.
A chimney cap keeps out rain, birds and other animals, and may reduce down drafts. Spark arresters,
wire mesh devices designed to catch sparks and burning particles emitted with the smoke, may be
included with factory-built chimney caps. These spark arresters may become encrusted with creosote,
blocking the proper flow of flue gases out of the chimney. When burning wood, it is recommended that the
spark arrester be cleaned regularly, or removed entirely unless individual conditions or local codes
require their use.
Determining the Distance Between the Chimney and Combustibles
The chimney must be kept a minimum distance of 2" away from combustibles (e.g., drywall, wood framing,
etc.). The distance between the outside surface of a chimney and combustibles is measured horizontally,
at right angles to the chimney. The pitch of the platform (e.g., the roof) must be considered in calculating
the size of the hole that is cut.
Calculating the Cut-Out on a Slanted Roof
Length of Cut-Out in Roof
c
a
90û
b
2" Min.
Combustible Roof
Length of Cut-Out in Roof
= "c" times 2 + chimney width
Factory-Built Chimney with
Required 2" Clearance
Width of
Cut-Out in Roof
Page 6
Width of Cut-Out in roof
= 4" + chimney width
CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS (Cont.)
Determining the Distance Between the Chimney and Combustibles (Continued)
Installers may find it convenient to create hole cut-out templates for pitches common to their area rather
than performing the calculations or using a trial "cut and measure" system for each installation.
Carefully read the specifications, as minimum clearances other than 2 inches are sometimes required by
the manufacturer. Maintain a minimum clearance of 2" or what the manufacturer requires, whichever is
greater.
Masonry Chimneys
If you are going to use an existing masonry chimney for your wood heating appliance make sure the
chimney is inspected and found in good and safe condition. If the existing chimney is not in good
condition repairs should be made before installation.
WARNING:
Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Do not use makeshift compromises in the installation.
Page 7
FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
Your Avalon 1196 appliance comes completely assembled. The options available for the freestanding
method of installation are listed below and require assembly.
1. Pedestal (With Solid Oak Trim)
2. Leg Kit, Steel
3. Leg Kit, Brass
4. Leg Kit, Cast
5. Blower, Rear
6. Blower, Front
7. Outside Air Kit (For Use With Pedestal Only)
8. Outside Air Boot (For Use With Legs Only)
1. Pedestal Assembly:
Optional Air Intake Port
Open the box marked Pedestal and
remove the pedestal and the two
attachment bolts and washers (3/8"
diameter - 16 x 3/4" hex. head
bolts).
Lift the stove onto the pedestal. Line up the threaded bolt holes in the bottom of the stove with the two
holes in the mounting angle of the pedestal. Using an open-end or socket wrench, fasten the pedestal to
the stove with the supplied bolts and washers. The Solid Oak Trim attaches to the front and rear edge of
the baseplate of the pedestal in the groove cut into the trim and is held in place by the weight of the stove.
To attach the trim, lift up the front side of the pedestal 2" (with stove attached) and slide the trim onto the
front edge, making sure it is aligned. Carefully lower the pedestal, making sure to keep the trim in place.
Repeat the process for the rear trim.
2. Steel Leg Kit Assembly:
Open the box marked Steel Leg Kit and remove the four 6 1/2" high black steel legs, complete with
rubber-tipped leveling bolts, the four attachment bolts (3/8" diameter - 16 x 3/4" hex. head bolts) and the
washers.
Raise the stove on some pieces of lumber to a height of about 7".
Line up the hole in the top of the leg with the threaded bolt hole
in each corner of the stove bottom. Using a 9/16" open end or
socket wrench, fasten the leg to the stove with the supplied
attachment bolts and washers, making sure the legs are flush
with the corners of the stove.
Attach Bolt (with
washer) to Stove
From Below
To level the stove, first make sure the leveling bolts with the rubber ends (some models come with steel
bolts -- the same directions apply) are screwed into position and backed off just enough to penetrate
below the steel portion of the leg. Unscrew each leveling bolt just enough so each leveling bolt is an
equal distance from the floor. You may wish to use a piece of wood or other spacer to measure this
distance. Next, lower the stove onto the ground and check for a level position. If slight adjustments need
to be made, make sure to first raise the stove before turning the leveling bolts. The rubber tips of the
leveling bolts will tear if they are adjusted while weight is applied to them.
Page 8
FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)
3. & 4. Brass and Cast Legs Assembly:
Open the box marked Brass (or Cast) Leg Kit and remove the four 7 7/8" high legs, complete with rubbertipped leveling bolts, the four attachment bolts (3/8" diameter - 16 x 3/4" hex. head bolts) and the washers.
Use the same directions listed above for the steel legs assembly. The one difference is that the brass (or
cast) legs are taller, and the stove should be lifted approximately 8 1/2" above the floor before attachment.
Attach Bolt (with
washer) to Stove
From Below
5. Blower, Rear
The rear blower is designed to improve the natural convection of the stove by pushing air through the
convection chamber of the stove and causing the heated air to exit through the vents along the top of the
stove. The blower mounts to the back of the stove centered on the lower edge with three screws. It also
has a thermodisk assembly which turns the blower on and off automatically. Follow the directions below
to attach the blower.
1.
Before installing the blower, first remove the two knock-outs on the bottom rear edge of the stove by
prying them out with a screwdriver. They are approximately 1" by 6" and are located near the rear
edge of the stove.
Remove these knock-outs for the
rear blower.
Do not remove. The front
knock-out is for the outside air
connection.
2. Feed the two wires coming from the thermodisk assembly through the stove and out the left side
knock-out that was removed in step 1. Take the thermodisk assembly and insert it directly below the
ashlip into the left side of the air intake. The thermodisk assembly should be positioned just behind
the support tab that sits at an angle to the left front corner.
Feed wires through stove and
out the left knock-out
removed in step 1.
Support Tab
Page 9
FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)
5. Blower, Rear (Continued)
Thermodisk
Assembly
The thermodisk must come in contact
with the bottom of the firebox when it is
installed. To insure this, bend the metal
portion of the thermodisk assembly up or
down to create a snug fit.
Thermodisk
Wires that
attach to
blower box
Bend metal up or down here to create a snug fit
Slide the wire clip
over the edge of the
strip of metal
between the two
knock-outs removed
in step 1. Insert the
two thermodisk wires
into the eye of the
wire clip and pull the
slack wire out of the
stove.
NOTE:
Feed the two thermodisk
wires into the eye of the
wire clip.
Slide the wire clip over the
edge of the strip of metal
between the two knock-outs.
The wires coming from the thermodisk assembly must not have too much slack
Ð these wires pass near the firebox and can cause a short if the slack is not
taken in and held in place with the wire clip. Do not pull so hard on the wires
that you dislodge the thermodisk housing from its location.
There are two yellow wires coming out of the blower box. These two wires must exit the blower box
from the top, not through the small access hole in the back. Re-route these wires so they exit out of
the top of the blower box. Attach these two wires to the two wires coming from the thermodisk by
connecting the mating quick-connects. It does not matter which wire from the blower box connects to
which wire from the thermodisk assembly. Push all of the excess wire into the cavity inside the blower
box.
The two yellow wires
attach to the thermodisk.
3. Place the blower box near the
bottom rear of the stove and push
any slack wire into the blower box
so that when the blower box is
attached the excess wire will not
contact the stove.
4. Attach the blower box to the bottom
rear of the stove with the three
screws provided. Push the blower
box up against the stove while
tightening the screws.
Three holes for attaching the blower
box to the back of the stove
Power Cord
(exits from back
of blower box)
FRONT
Page 10
FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)
5. Blower, Rear (Continued)
REAR BLOWER OPERATION
The blower controls are located on the switch box
that is connected by a cord to the blower. There
are two rocker switches that determine the speed
and mode (automatic or manual) of the blower.
The two speeds are RUN (slower) and STARTUP
(faster). The two modes are AUTO (the
thermodisk controls the switch and the
temperature of the firebox will determine when the
blower starts or stops) and MAN (manual Ð the
blower will run on the speed setting selected).
The blower should be switched "OFF" for
approximately 30 minutes after each reload of the
stove. This is to allow the stove to reach
operating temperature.
RUN
OFF
STARTUP
Speed Control Rocker Switch
(If OFF is selected, the blower
will always be off, even if on
automatic)
AUTO
OFF
MAN
Mode Rocker Switch (If OFF
is selected, the blower will
always be off, no matter what
the speed setting is at)
6. Blower, Front
The front blower is designed to improve your appliance's natural convection by pushing heated air
through the convection chamber and out of the vents along the top.
Blower Control Knob
Front
Blower
Power
Cord
Knock-out for
air control rod
1. Remove the small knock-out located just below the blower control knob on the blower assembly (see
the illustration above). Then remove the air control knob (located below the ashlip) by unscrewing it.
2. Carefully slide the blower assembly underneath the ashlip so that the two clips on the lower back
edge of the blower assembly slide over the front edge of the sheet metal under the appliance. You
should be able to feel the blower assembly snap into place as you slide it in. Attach the extended air
control rod by inserting it into the knock-out on the blower assembly and screwing it onto the threaded
rod. Then attach the air control knob that was removed in step 1 to the extended air control rod. This
is all the assembly needed to attach the blower assembly.
Clip (One on
each side)
Rear of Blower
Assembly (Side View)
FRONT OF STOVE
Sheet Metal
Below Ashlip
Avalon Stove
or Insert
3. Plug in the blower and test its operation. It should blow air out of the vents on top of the appliance.
The blower is turned off by turning it all the way counter-clockwise. Each click clockwise will increase
the speed of the blower.
Page 11
FREESTANDING OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)
7. & 8. Outside Air Kit (Pedestal Only) & Outside Air Boot (Legs Only)
The outside air kit and boot are options that allow the stove to use outside air for combustion instead of
room air. This is a requirement for mobile home installations. Both the outside air kit and boot work in the
same fashion. Instead of having the air enter through the air intake under the ashlip, the outside air kit
and boot re-route the air intake so the air is drawn from outside. This section will address the special
installation factors that must be considered when installing this model of stove with an outside air kit or
boot.
THE SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING THE OUTSIDE AIR KIT AND OUTSIDE
AIR BOOT ARE INCLUDED WITH THOSE KITS AND MUST BE READ PRIOR TO
INSTALLING THE STOVE.
The most important factor that must be
considered when installing an outside air kit
or boot with your stove is placement. Make
detailed plans to determine the precise
location for your stove. When installing the
outside air kit or boot there are two
placement considerations that must be
addressed simultaneously. They are:
Stove placement
should be made
so the chimney
avoids interference
with structural
members in roof.
1. Does the stove line up with the flue in the
right location, avoiding structural
members of the roof?
2. Does the hole that is cut in the floor and
hearth for the outside air kit or boot avoid
all structural members of the floor?
These two questions must be considered in
determining the final location for the stove.
To determine the size, shape, and location of
the hole in the hearth and floor, refer to the
directions included with the outside air kit
and boot. To determine the size and location
of the hole in the roof, refer to the directions
included with the chimney being used and
the location of the flue collar in the section
"FREESTANDING INSTALLATION SPECIFICATIONS"
Stove placement
should be made
so the hole cut in
the floor and
hearth avoids
interference with
structural
members in floor.
Outside
Air Kit
See the illustration to the right.
Do not remove the
rear fan knock-outs
Pedestal
Location
Knock-Out For Outside Air
Kit or Outside Air Boot
After the precise location of the stove is
determined, the outside air kit or boot should
be installed prior to installing the stove.
Follow the directions included with the
outside air kit or boot. Make sure to remove
the correct knock-out for the outside air kit or
boot. See the illustration to the left.
Page 12
PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING
READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE YOU INSTALL AND USE YOUR NEW APPLIANCE. FAILURE TO
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY, OR EVEN DEATH.
PREPARATION:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Remove all tape and packaging.
Remove the wood shipping frame from around and under the appliance.
Check that no parts have become loose and the appliance has not been damaged during shipping.
Remove the hardware pack from the appliance.
READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL BEFORE PROCEEDING.
* Appliance should be located such that no doors, drapes, furniture or other combustibles can be placed
closer or swing closer than the minimum stated clearances.
* The appliance must be installed in a level, secure position.
REQUIRED FLOOR PROTECTION:
Minimum size 41 1/4"W x 42 1/2"L of noncombustible material with a minimum thickness of 26
gauge floor protection must extend under the
appliance.
Chimney Lengths
Vertical
Front Sides Back -
Maximum
33 Feet
16"
6"
6"
Minimum
15 Feet
If you are going to use a factory built chimney it should be 6"
in diameter and a type suitable for use with solid fuels.
Follow the manufacturer's installation instructions packaged
within the chimney appliance.
Wall, ceiling, or roof penetrations can be made only with U.L.
listed chimney components. NOTE: Your interior single wall
chimney connector or double wall chimney connector must
not pass through an attic, roof space, closet or similar
unsealed space, floor, ceiling, wall or partition of
combustible construction.
All sections of interior chimney connector should be securely
fastened together by at least three sheet metal screws. The
crimped end must be installed downwards (see drawing to
right).
When lifting the appliance, you may choose to remove the
interior components to make it lighter. Refer to the section
"REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS"
for the proper sequence of removal and replacement of
internal components.
Page 13
Top
6"
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS
REQUIRED FLOOR PROTECTION:
}
6"
Front = 16" NOTE: Front floor
protection is
measured from the
door opening.
}
6"
Sides = 6"
Back = 6"
16"
From Door
Opening
CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES:
Backwall
E
B
Sidewall
D
Inches
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
16
15
9 1/2
27 1/2
17 1/2
20 1/2
Sidewall to unit ............................
Backwall to unit............................
Cornerwall to unit ........................
Connector to sidewall.................
Connector to backwall................
Connector to cornerwall.............
Reduced Clearance *
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
A
*
Cornerwall
C
F
Cornerwall
Single Wall Connector
F
C
Sidewall to unit ............................
Backwall to unit............................
Cornerwall to unit ........................
Connector to sidewall.................
Connector to backwall................
Connector to cornerwall.............
Components required for alcove,
mobile home, and reduced clearance
installations are one of the following
listed double wall connectors and
chimney systems.
¥ DURAVENT model DVL with DURA-PLUS chimney
¥ AMERI-TEC model DCC with model HS chimney
¥ SECURITY model DP with SECURITY model
ASHT or S2100 chimney
¥ METAL-FAB model DW with model TG chimney
¥ Standard Masonry Chimney with any one of the
above listed connectors
Page 14
16
10
7 1/2
27
12
18
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS (Cont.)
TOP VIEW
29 1/4"
14 5/8"
5 9/16"
20 1/2"
25"
SIDE VIEW
See
Chart
Below
Overall Height With:
Steel Legs..................................................................................27
Brass Legs .................................................................................29
Cast Legs ...................................................................................29
Pedestal......................................................................................32
Page 15
3/4"
1/8"
1/8"
3/4"
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION
Standard Ceiling Installation
When installing a freestanding stove into a residence with a standard ceiling, certain precautions should
be taken to insure a safe installation. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding
stove into a standard ceiling with a factory-built chimney. There are several other alternative methods.
Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.
IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT NO CEILING
SUPPORT MEMBER BE CUT FOR CHIMNEY
AND SUPPORT BOX INSTALLATION. IF IT IS
NECESSARY TO CUT THEM, THE MEMBERS
MUST BE MADE STRUCTURALLY SOUND.
1.
Chimney Cap
Chimney Sections
Storm Collar
Make sure the factory built chimney satisfies
all of the rules in the section titled
"CHIMNEY INFORMATION &
REGULATIONS".
Roof Flashing
Roof Radiation Shield
(Required by some
manufacturers)
2. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines
specified in the sections titled
"FREESTANDING INSTALLATION SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION
FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING".
Attic Radiation Shield
3. Carefully place the stove on top of the floor
protection and join the chimney connector to
the stove. When determining the placement
of the stove, make sure to take into
consideration the necessary clearances to
combustibles and the placement of the
chimney.
NOTE: When the chimney connector extends to a
standard ceiling, as shown to the right, a support
package and sometimes a chimney connector
adapter are installed at the ceiling.
Working from the attic or roof, sufficient sections of
factory-built chimney (available in different
lengths) are installed to go through the space
above the ceiling, then through and above the
roof to the correct height above the roof line. The
chimney sections should be stacked and locked
securely as specified by the manufacturer. A
minimum clearance of 2 inches is typically
required between the outside surface of the
factory-built chimney and any combustibles or
insulation; the air space around the chimney
never must be filled with insulation or any other
material.
Insulation
Minimum Air Space
in Accordance with
Chimney Listing
Min. 17 1/2" for
Single Wall, 12"
for Reduced
Clearance
Connector
Chimney Connector
Min. 15" for
Single Wall, 10"
for Reduced
Clearance
Connector
Min.
16"
IMPORTANT: Make sure to follow all guidelines provided by the manufacturer of the chimney for safety
in installation.
Page 16
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Cathedral Ceiling Installation
When installing a freestanding stove into a residence with a cathedral ceiling, certain precautions should
be taken to insure a safe installation. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding
stove into a cathedral ceiling with a factory-built chimney. There are several other alternative methods.
Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.
IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT NO CEILING
SUPPORT MEMBER BE CUT FOR CHIMNEY
AND SUPPORT BOX INSTALLATION. IF IT IS
NECESSARY TO CUT THEM, THE MEMBERS
MUST BE MADE STRUCTURALLY SOUND.
1.
Chimney Cap
Roof Radiation Shield
(Required by some
manufacturers)
Make sure the factory-built chimney
satisfies all of the rules in the section titled
"CHIMNEY INFORMATION &
REGULATIONS".
2. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines
specified in the sections titled
"FREESTANDING INSTALLATION SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION
FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING".
3. Carefully place the stove on top of the floor
protection and join the chimney connector
to the stove. When determining the
placement of the stove, make sure to take
into consideration the necessary
clearances to combustibles and the
placement of the chimney.
NOTE: In rooms with cathedral
ceilings, the roof and ceiling are
combined . For this type of installation,
manufacturers of factory-built chimneys
provide a special cathedral ceiling roof
support kit with instructions that should
be followed.
Factory-Built
Chimney
Storm Collar
Roof Flashing
Cathedral-Style
Chimney Support
Finishing Collar
Minimum Air Space
in Accordance with
Chimney Listing
Min. 17 1/2" for
Single Wall, 12"
for Reduced
Clearance
Connector
Chimney Connector
Min. 15" for
Single Wall, 10"
for Reduced
Clearance
Connector
Min.
16"
IMPORTANT: Because of the slope of the cathedral ceiling, care should be taken to extend the chimney
sufficiently far into the room so that the chimney connector will meet the minimum clearances requirement
from the sloped combustible ceiling. The greater the pitch of the ceiling, the further into the room the
chimney section must extend. Use the concepts from "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS" to
accurately measure the appropriate distance from a sloping ceiling.
Page 17
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Horizontal Installation Into Factory-Built Chimney
When installing a freestanding stove into a residence with horizontal connection to a factory-built
chimney, certain precautions should be taken to insure a safe installation. The directions below illustrate
one way to install your freestanding stove with a horizontal installation into a factory-built chimney. This
requires the use of an insulated tee, a wall support, wall closure plate, wall bands, roof flashing, storm
collar and chimney cap. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer
for information on other options available to you.
1.
Make sure the factory-built
chimney satisfies all of the rules in
the section titled "CHIMNEY
INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".
Chimney Cap
Chimney Sections
Storm Collar
2. Follow all of the regulations and
guidelines specified in the sections
titled "FREESTANDING
INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS"
and "PREPARATION FOR
INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING".
3. Carefully place the stove on top of
the floor protection and join the
chimney connector to the stove.
When determining the placement
of the stove, make sure to take into
consideration the necessary
clearances to combustibles and
the placement of the chimney.
NOTE: An exterior chimney is subject to
cold outdoor temperatures, leading to
greater heat loss, creosote
accumulation, and moisture
condensation in the chimney. To reduce
this possibility, the chimney may be
enclosed in a chase. Specified
minimum clearances from combustibles
must be maintained. If the chase is
insulated, the insulated walls should be
sheathed with dry-wall or covered with
wire mesh to keep the insulation in
place. If the chase is to go through an
eaves area, a firestop must be used to
prevent air flow between the chase and
the attic. This is to isolate the chase/attic
area from fire and to prevent attic
insulation from falling into the chase
enclosure.
Roof Flashing
Roof Radiation Shield
(Required by some
manufacturers)
Minimum Air Space
in Accordance with
Chimney Listing
18" Min.
Factory-Built
Metal Chimney
Wall Band
Insulated Tee
Chase (Optional)
Chimney Connector
Wall
Support
17 1/2" Min. For Single
Wall Connector
12" Min. For Reduced
Clearance Connector
Min.
16"
Page 18
15" Min. For
Single Wall
Connector
10" Min. For
Reduced
Clearance
Connector
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Hearth Stove Installation Using a Positive Connection
When installing a freestanding stove into a masonry fireplace that is using a positive connection, certain
precautions should be taken to insure a safe installation. The advantages of this type of connection are
excellent chimney draft and ease of cleaning. A block-off plate is not needed for this type of installation
because the positive connection provides sufficient draft. If one is used, it need not be airtight. The
directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding stove into a positive connection factory-built
chimney. There are several other alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information
on other options available to you.
1.
Install the positive connection (reline) through the masonry chimney according to the manufacturer's
instructions for installation and support. Make sure to follow all of the manufacturer's safety
precautions during assembly. Inspect the masonry chimney and make sure the chimney is in good
and safe condition. If the existing chimney is not in good condition, repairs should be made before
installation. Make sure the masonry fireplace and positive connection conform to all of the rules
outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".
2. If a block-off plate is desired (optional), follow the directions for making a block-off plate in the section
titled "INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE".
3. Follow all of the clearance regulations for placement of your stove specified in the sections titled
"FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION FREESTANDING ". Furthermore, make sure the stove also meets the specifications listed in the
sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT" for clearance to the masonry fireplace.
4. If you are using a block-off plate, slide the pipe into the plate up through the damper. If you are not
using a block-off plate, make sure the last segment of the positive connection will reach the stove
once it is in place.
5. You may now place your stove into position so that it lines up with the chimney connector.
6. With the connector in place, you now have completed the positive connection for your insert. It is a
good idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels
snug, a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back in forth,
make sure that the stove is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight into the flue collar on the
top of the stove.
7. Check the diagram on the following page. Make sure all of the items listed are complete.
Follow these directions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.
WARNING:
Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Do not use makeshift compromises in the installation.
Page 19
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Hearth Stove with Positive Connection (Continued)
Stainless Steel
Chimney Liner System
Follow Liner
Manufacturer's
Instructions on
Installation and
Support
Combustible Mantle
Airtight Insulated
Clean-Out
Remove Damper or
Wire it Open
Block-off Plate or
Damper Adapter
(Optional)
Min.
16"
18" Min.
Floor Protection
Follow the directions on the previous page for installation.
Page 20
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Hearth Stove Installation Using a Direct Connection
Using the direct connection between your hearth stove and masonry chimney allows you to use your
existing chimney with a minimum of installation work. An airtight seal must be made with a block-off plate
to insure that your chimney will draw the smoke out of the appliance. The directions below illustrate one
way to install your freestanding stove into a direct connection. There are several other alternative
methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.
1.
Inspect the masonry chimney and follow all the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY
INFORMATION & REGULATIONS". Make sure the chimney is inspected and found in good and safe
condition. If the existing chimney is not in good condition, repairs should be made before installation.
2.
Follow the directions for making a block-off plate in the section titled "INSTALLATION OF A
FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE".
3. Follow all of the clearance regulations for placement of your stove specified in the sections titled
"FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION FREESTANDING ". Furthermore, make sure the stove also meets the specifications listed in the
sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT" for clearance to the masonry fireplace.
4. Once the plate is in position, slide the pipe into the plate up through the damper. It must extend up to
the flue liner or at least one foot past the block-off plate.
5. You may now position the hearth stove and connector pipe so that it can be easily joined with the pipe
coming from the flue opening.
6. With the connector in place, you have now completed the direct connection for your insert. It is a good
idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels snug,
a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back in forth, make sure
that the stove is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight into the flue collar on the top of the
stove.
7. Take a look at the figure on the following page. Make sure all of the items listed are complete.
Follow these directions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.
WARNING: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Do not use makeshift compromises in the installation.
Page 21
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
(Continued)
Hearth Stove with Direct Connection
Stainless Steel Chimney
Connector Must Extend 1'
past the Block-off Plate or
to the Flue Liner
Airtight Insulated
Clean-Out
Combustible
Mantle
Remove Damper or
Wire it Open
Block-off Plate or
Damper Adapter
Min. 18"
Min.
16"
Floor Protection
Follow the directions on the previous page for installation.
Page 22
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Hearth Stove Installation Using a Horizontal Connection
When installing a freestanding stove into a masonry fireplace that is using a horizontal connection, certain
precautions should be taken to insure a safe installation. A block-off plate is not needed for this type of
installation because the seal can be maintained simply by closing the damper and sealing with a noncombustible material. The directions below illustrate one way to install your freestanding stove using a
horizontal connection to a masonry chimney. There are several other alternative methods. Check with
your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.
1.
Install the horizontal pipe section along with the necessary thimble assembly through the masonry
chimney according to the manufacturer's instructions for installation and support. Make sure to follow
all of the manufacturer's safety precautions during assembly. Inspect the masonry chimney and make
sure the chimney is in good and safe condition. If the existing chimney is not in good condition,
repairs should be made before installation. Make sure the masonry fireplace and positive connection
conform to all of the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".
2. Close the damper and seal the edges with non-combustible material. It is a good idea to also remove
the damper control rod to avoid anyone trying to re-open the damper.
3. Follow all of the clearance regulations for placement of your stove specified in the sections titled
"FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION FREESTANDING " . Furthermore, make sure the stove also meets the specifications listed in the
sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT" for clearance to the masonry fireplace.
4. Place your stove into its final position so that the chimney connector will line up with the horizontal
pipe section.
5. Attach the chimney connector to both the horizontal pipe section and the hearth stove. It is a good
idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels snug,
a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back and forth, make
sure that the insert is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight into the flue collar on the top of
the insert.
7. Check the diagram on the following page. Make sure all of the items listed are complete.
Follow these directions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.
WARNING: Do not connect this unit to a chimney flue serving another appliance.
Do not use makeshift compromises in the installation.
Page 23
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Hearth Stove Installation Using a Horizontal Connection (Continued)
Minimum Clearance
from Chimney
Connector to
Unprotected Ceiling
Flue Liner
with
Required
Airspace
18"
Listed or Approved
Thimble Assembly
Combustible
Wall
1" Clearance for
Completely
Exterior Chimney
or 2" Clearance for
Interior Chimney
and 2" Clearance
for N.F.P.A.
211-Type
Approved
Thimbles
Airtight
Insulated
Clean-Out
Combustible
Mantle
Damper Closed
and Sealed with
Non-Combustible
Material O R
Block-off Plate if
damper can not
be sealed
Min. 17 1/2" for
Single Wall, 12"
for Reduced
Clearance
Connector
Chimney
Connector
32" Min.
19" Min. With Shield
Floor Protection
Min.
16"
Follow the directions on the previous page for installation.
Page 24
FREESTANDING INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Mobile Home Installation
When installing a wood burning stove in your mobile home you must follow the same procedures and
regulations outlined in the sections "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - FREESTANDING " and
"FREESTANDING INSTALLATION - SPECIFICATIONS".
NOTE: You may not install a wood burning stove in the bedroom of a mobile home.
Follow the directions for installation according to the type of chimney installed (factory-built chimney with
either a standard ceiling, cathedral ceiling, or horizontal outside chimney). In addition to the normal
residential requirements, the following requirements are mandatory for installation into a mobile home:
1. The stove must be permanently bolted to
the floor of the mobile home. (Some
states do not require this; check with
your local building department.)
2. The stove must have a permanent
outside air (combustion air) intake. The
Pedestal Option is equipped with
provisions for outside air. Please see
the instructions for the Outside Air Kit
and Outside Air Boot in the section
"FREESTANDING OPTIONAL
EQUIPMENT".
Unit
Grounded
to
Chassis
3. The stove must be grounded to the steel
chassis of the mobile home (Some
states do not require this; check with
your local building department).
CAUTION: The structural integrity of the
mobile home floor, wall, ceiling and roof
must be maintained.
Pedestal
Bolted to
Floor
Permanent Outside
Air Inlet (Direction is
Optional)
Page 25
FREESTANDING RESIDENTIAL INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Alcove Installation
If you are installing your appliance into an alcove, you must follow all of the directions for the type of
installation (e.g. standard ceiling installation, cathedral ceiling installation, etc.) you are using and follow
the additional specifications listed below.
Minimum Alcove Dimensions
Backwall
J
Sidewall
D
B
D
A
A
Sidewall
E
G
H
Combustible Alcove
*
**
Non-Combustible Alcove *
A. Sidewall to unit.......................... 16"
A. Sidewall to unit ....................... 6"
B. Backwall to unit ......................... 10"
B. Backwall to unit....................... 2"
D. Connector to sidewall .............. 27"
D. Connector to sidewall............ 17"
E. Connector to backwall ............. 12"
E. Connector to backwall........... 4 1/2"
G. Max. Depth of Alcove ............... 48"
G. Max. Depth of Alcove............. 48"
H. Min. Width of Alcove................. 61 1/4"
H. Min. Width of Alcove............... 41 1/4"
J. Min. Height of Alcove ............... 84"
J. Min. Height of Alcove............. **
Non-Combustible Alcoves include alcoves made of brick, stone, or concrete with at least 3 1/2" of
thickness along the walls and ceiling that is also spaced and ventilated at least 1" off of the
combustible wall to allow air to move around the non-combustible walls and ceiling.
6" Above Stove Top
Page 26
INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
Your Avalon 1196 appliance comes completely assembled. The options available for the insert method of
installation are listed below and require assembly.
1. Surround Panels - 8", 10", and 12" Sizes
2. Surround Panel Brass Trim (Included with Surround Panels)
3. Blower, Front
1. Surround Panels
The surround panels for your insert are sold separately and come in the three sizes listed below. It is very
important that you choose the surround panels that will adequately suit your installation. For direct or
positive connections the surround panels do not require insulation for an airtight seal. For face seal
connections the surround panels must overlap the fireplace at least 2" on the top and sides and require
insulation to insure an airtight seal.
SURROUND PANEL SIZES
SIZE ON INSERT (INCLUDING TRIM)
8"
10"
12"
45 3/8" width by 29" height
49 3/8" width by 31" height
53 3/8" width by 33" height
NOTE: For a Face Seal Connection it is recommended that you have at least 2" of
overlap. On brick or stone facing an overlap of 2 1/2" may be necessary for an airtight
seal due to the rough surface.
It is very important that your surround panels overlap the fireplace opening by 1/4" or more. This will
insure a good seal and provide a more attractive facade. When determining your surround panel size,
remember that the panels must overlap the fireplace opening in both width and height. The surround
panels may overlap the fireplace opening by more than the 1/4" recommendation if it is to allow for a
complete seal. Any questions on selection of the surround panels should be directed towards your
dealer.
To install the surround
panels, first refer to the type
of installation you are using
(e.g. Face Seal Connection,
Direct Connection, etc...).
Follow the directions listed
for the type of installation you
are doing, and follow the
directions below when they
are referred in that section.
The insert will need to be
drawn out of the fireplace at
least 6" to allow for
installation of the surround
panels. If the insert is to be
connected to a flue, the
brass trim and top panel can
be removed with the insert in
its final position to access the
flue and then later reinstalled. If insulation is to
be used and the top panel is
to be removed, make sure to
allow for this by not gluing
the insulation along the top
until the flue is connected.
Refer to the illustration to the
right while installing the
surround panels.
To
panp Pa
els nel
and (Att
top aches
of i to
nse sid
rt) e
Mounting Angle
Sid
eP
ane
l
Joggle Clips
Offset on the top
of side panel
Remove
the Button
Plugs
Sid
eP
ane
l
Holes for
Mounting
Side Panel
Page 27
INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)
1. Surround Panels (Continued)
1. Remove the two button plugs from each side of the insert with a screwdriver.
2. Using a 5/16" nutdriver or large screwdriver, screw the thread-cutting screws into the four holes
exposed by removing the button plugs. The holes are now pre-threaded, remove the screws.
3. Place one of the side panels against the side of the insert, lining up the slots in the panel with the
threaded holes in the side of the insert. Attach the panel with the thread-cutting screws, leaving the
screws loose enough to adjust the side panel. Repeat for the other side.
4. The top mounting angle is designed to stabilize the top panel. Center the mounting angle on the
insert with the side that has only three holes in it facing down. The mounting angle should be flush
with the top edge of the top panel on the insert (see the illustration below). Mark the locations on the
insert where the center of the holes in the mounting angle rest. Remove the mounting angle and drill
11/64" holes where the marks were placed. Drill only enough to penetrate one layer of metal. Using
a 5/16" nutdriver or large screwdriver, screw the thread-cutting screws into these two holes. The
holes are now pre-threaded, remove the screws. Place the mounting angle back over these holes
and attach it to the insert with the two thread-cutting screws.
Mounting Angle
should be flush
with the edge of
the top panel
Mounting Angle
5. Slide the top panel onto the offset on top of the side panels. The top panel must also slide over the
mounting flange (or mounting angle on top flue models) that is on the insert. The top panel has four
joggle clips that hold the top panel in place against the insert and the side panels. The best way to
insert the top panel is to hold it at an angle and insert one side first and gradually lower it until the
opposite side is inserted. Adjust the top panel so its edges are flush with the side edges of the side
panels.
6. Adjust the position of the side panels so they are: 1) flush with the bottom of the insert; 2) both the
same distance back from the front of the insert; 3) perpendicular to the floor.
INSULATION INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
The installation of the insulation is required only for face seal connections. Direct and positive
connections do not require the insulation to be installed. Refer to the owner's manual for more details on
the type of installations available and the items that are required for each type of installation.
1.
With the insert drawn at least 6" away from the fireplace, glue the insulation strip included with the
surround panel kit to the back of the panels using RTV silicon or stove gasket cement. The insulation
should be installed so it overlaps the fireplace opening to form a seal between the panels and the
fireplace face.
2. Push the insert into the fireplace, ensuring a seal is made with the insulation between the panels and
the fireplace face.
Page 28
INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)
2. Surround Panel Brass Trim (Included with Surround Panels)
The brass trim kit is included with the surround panel kit and includes all of the items needed for
installation.
1. Lay the three pieces of brass trim on the floor in front of the insert. Arrange the brass trim so that it
resembles the illustration below. The rounded edge of the trim that will be facing outwards when
installed should be facing down.
CROSS SECTION OF BRASS TRIM
Insert
Screw holds "L"
Bracket to Trim
Lay the trim on the floor in
front of the insert with the
rounded portion facing down.
"L" Bracket slides into
this groove
Side Trim
Surround Panels
slide into this
groove
"L" Brackets
Top Trim
Rounded portion
faces outward
when installed
2. Insert an "L" bracket leg into the groove in the 45o cut end of each side piece. Slide the other leg of
each "L" bracket into the groove in each end of the top piece.
o
3. With a small screwdriver tighten the screws into the "L" brackets, ensuring that the 45 cuts are butted
together to form a neat joint.
4. Lift the complete brass trim assembly and slide the side pieces down over the edge of the side panels
until the bottom edge of the brass trim is flush with the bottom of the side panels and the top panel is
in the groove of the top brass trim piece.
Page 29
INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT (Continued)
3. Blower, Front
The front blower is designed to improve your appliance's natural convection by pushing heated air
through the convection chamber and out of the vents along the top.
Blower Control Knob
Front
Blower
Power
Cord
Knock-out for
air control rod
1. Remove the small knock-out located just below the blower control knob on the blower assembly (see
the illustration above). Then remove the air control knob (located below the ashlip) by unscrewing it.
2. Carefully slide the blower assembly underneath the ashlip so that the two clips on the lower back
edge of the blower assembly slide over the front edge of the sheet metal under the appliance. You
should be able to feel the blower assembly snap into place as you slide it in. Attach the extended air
control rod by inserting it into the knock-out on the blower assembly and screwing it onto the threaded
rod. Then attach the air control knob that was removed in step 1 to the extended air control rod. This
is all the assembly needed to attach the blower assembly.
Clip (One on
each side)
Rear of Blower
Assembly (Side View)
FRONT OF STOVE
Sheet Metal
Below Ashlip
Avalon Stove
or Insert
3. Plug in the blower and test its operation. It should blow air out of the vents on top of the appliance.
The blower is turned off by turning it all the way counter-clockwise. Each click clockwise will increase
the speed of the blower.
Page 30
PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT
READ THIS ENTIRE MANUAL BEFORE YOU INSTALL AND USE YOUR NEW APPLIANCE. FAILURE TO
FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS MAY RESULT IN PROPERTY DAMAGE, BODILY INJURY, OR EVEN DEATH.
PREPARATION:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Remove all tape and packaging.
Remove the wood shipping frame from around and under the appliance.
Check that no parts have become loose and the appliance has not been damaged during shipping.
Remove the hardware pack from the appliance.
READ THE OWNER'S MANUAL BEFORE PROCEEDING.
*
Appliance should be located such that no doors, drapes, furniture or other combustibles can be
placed close or swing closer than the minimum 36" clearance.
*
The appliance must be installed in a level, secure position.
REQUIRED FLOOR PROTECTION:
NOTE: Minimum hearth extension of 45 1/4" width by 18" depth from fireplace opening is required.
CHIMNEY LENGTH
Vertical
Maximum
33 Feet
Minimum
15 Feet
OPTIONS
Your fireplace insert comes completely assembled. Options available for your fireplace insert are:
1. Surround Panels - 8", 10", and 12" Sizes
2. Surround Panel Brass Trim (Included with Surround Panels)
3. Blower, Front
SAFETY
For your safety, examine the fireplace and chimney prior to installation of the insert to determine that they
are free from cracks, loose mortar, creosote deposits, blockages, or other signs of deterioration. If
evidence of deterioration is noted, the insert should not be installed until after repairs have been made.
Any opening between the masonry of the fireplace and the facing masonry must be permanently
sealed.Your fireplace insert is listed for installation into masonry fireplaces, and is approved to be
installed with one of the following connections:
1. Positive
2. Direct
3. Face Seal
NOTE: It is recommended your chimney have a minimum 28 and a
maximum of 144 square inch cross-sectional area to use a face seal
connection, otherwise your chimney may not have sufficient draw for the
fireplace insert to operate correctly. If your chimney does not fit within these
parameters it is recommended you install a direct or positive connection.
When lifting the appliance, you may choose to remove the interior components to make it lighter. Refer to
the section "REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS" for the proper sequence of
removal and replacement of internal components.
Page 31
FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS
LOCATION OF FLUE COLLAR DIMENSIONS REQUIRED FOR INSTALLATION INTO FIREPLACE AND
PANEL SIZING.
TOP VIEW
14 5/8"
5 5/8"
FIREPLACE SIZING
Measure and center the appliance into the fireplace based on the provided measurements.
A. Minimum Height (Front)
22 1/4"
B. Minimum Height (Back)
22 1/4"
C. Minimum Width (Front)
29 1/4"
D. Minimum Width (Back)
29 1/4"
E. Depth into Fireplace
14 1/8"
F. Extension onto Hearth
6 5/8"
D
A
B
E
F
C
Page 32
FIREPLACE INSERT - SPECIFICATIONS (Continued)
FLOOR PROTECTION:
Hearth of 45 1/4" width and 18" depth when the insert is in place (see "E" and "F" below).
CLEARANCE TO COMBUSTIBLES:
COMBUSTIBLE MANTLE
C. Top Facing
(Facing with Shield)
30"
17"
D. Mantle to Insert
(Mantle with Shield)
32"
19"
E. Minimum Floor
Protection-Front
18"
F. Minimum Floor
Protection-Side
A
D
C
Surround Panel
13.5"
Fireplace Facing
B. Side Facing
Combustible Surface
Combustible Surface
15"
COMBUSTIBLE SIDEWALL
A. Adjacent Sidewall to
Insert
B
E
F
8"
NOTE: For clearances, use this clearance diagram or the clearance diagram on the safety label attached
to the back of the appliance.
LEVELING BOLTS
If your fireplace is stepped down from the hearth, you will be required to use the leveling bolts located
within the hardware package.
Prior to placing the insert BOTTOM VIEW
in the fireplace opening,
measure the step-down.
Screw the 1/2" bolts
provided into the threaded
holes in the back corners
of the insert body and
adjust them to match the
step-down measurement.
As you install the insert the
leveling bolts may need
further adjustment. This
may be done by tilting the
insert slightly and turning
the bolts.
Page 33
Leveling
Bolts
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION
Installation Using a Direct Connection
Using the direct connection between your insert and masonry chimney allows you to use your existing
chimney with a minimum of installation work. An airtight seal must be made with a block-off plate to insure
that your chimney will draw the smoke out of the appliance. The directions below illustrate one way to
install your insert into a direct connection masonry chimney. There are other alternative methods. Check
with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you. The directions below should
be followed in the order listed.
1.
Inspect the masonry chimney and follow all the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY
INFORMATION & REGULATIONS".
2. Follow the directions for making a block-off plate in the section titled "INSTALLATION OF A
FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE".
3. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT".
4. Once the plate is in position, slide the
pipe into the plate up through the
damper. It must extend up to the flue
liner or at least one foot past the block-off
plate.
Block-off Plate
5. You may now place your new appliance
into the fireplace opening and position
the connector pipe so that it can be
easily pushed into the flue opening on
top of the insert. You may want to use a
towel or blanket to protect the floor while
positioning the insert.
6. Once this has been accomplished, reach in and pull the connector pipe down into the flue of the
insert. If ample room between the top of the insert and the fireplace opening does not exist, you will
need to remove the top firebricks by following the directions in the section "REPLACEMENT PARTS
AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS". Then reach inside the appliance and pull the connector down by
placing your hand up through the flue opening of the appliance. The chimney connector should fit
tight and secure into the flue opening.
7.
With the connector in place, you have now completed the direct connection for your insert. It is a good
idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels snug,
a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back in forth, make sure
that the insert is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight into the flue collar on top of the insert.
8. Take a look at the figure on the following page. Make sure all of the items listed are complete.
Page 34
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Installation Using a Direct Connection (Continued)
9. To install the surround panels, follow the directions listed in the section "INSTALLING SURROUND
PANELS" . NOTE: Surround panels are not required for a direct connection if a block-off plate is
used.
Follow the installation instructions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.
SIDE VIEW OF FIREPLACE INSERT DIRECT CONNECTION
Clay Flue Liner with
Required Air Space
Stainless Steel
Chimney Connector
Must Extend to Clay
Flue Liner or at least
one foot beyond
Block-off Plate
Airtight Insulated
Clean-Out
Remove Damper or
Wire it Open
Block-off Plate
Insulation
(Optional)
Block-off Plate
Insulation
Optional Surround
Panel
Non-Combustible
Material
Follow the directions on the previous page for installation.
Page 35
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Installation Using a Positive Connection
Using a positive connection between your insert and masonry chimney allows you to use your existing
masonry chimney to support a new factory-built chimney liner. The advantages of a positive connection
are excellent chimney draft and ease of cleaning. A block-off plate is not needed for this type of
installation because the positive connection provides sufficient draft. If one is used, it need not be airtight.
The directions below illustrate one way to install your positive connection. There are several other
alternative methods. Check with your dealer or installer for information on other options available to you.
1.
Install the positive connection (full reline) through the masonry chimney according to the
manufacturer's instructions for installation and support. Make sure to follow all of the manufacturer's
safety precautions during assembly. Inspect the masonry chimney and positive connection so that all
of the rules outlined in the section titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS" are met.
2. If a block-off plate is desired (optional), follow the directions for making a block-off plate in the section
titled "INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE".
3. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT".
4. If you are using a block-off plate, slide
the pipe into the plate up through the
damper. If you are not using a block-off
plate, make sure the last segment of the
positive connection will reach the insert
once it is inserted into the fireplace.
Block-off Plate
5. You may now place your insert into the
fireplace opening and position the
connector pipe so that it can be easily
pushed into the flue opening on top of
the insert. You may want to use a towel
or blanket to protect the floor or panel
finish while positioning the insert.
6. Once this has been accomplished, reach in and pull the connector pipe down into the flue of the
insert. If ample room between the top of the insert and the fireplace opening does not exist, you will
need to remove the top firebricks by following the directions in the section "REPLACEMENT PARTS
AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS". Then reach inside the appliance and pull the connector down by
placing your hand up through the flue opening of the appliance. The chimney connector should fit
tight and secure into the flue opening.
7.
With the connector in place, you have now completed the positive connection for your insert. It is a
good idea to check your connection by trying to rock the chimney connector back and forth. If it feels
snug, a good connection is established. If you can feel some play when you rock it back in forth,
make sure that the insert is properly aligned and that the connector fits tight into the flue collar on top
of the insert.
Page 36
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Installation Using a Positive Connection (Continued)
8. Take a look at the figure below. Make sure all of the items listed below are completed.
Must be sealed at the
top (preferable) or
with a block-off plate
Stainless Steel Chimney
Liner System
Follow Liner
Manufacturer's
Instructions on
Installation and
Support
Airtight Insulated
Clean-Out
Remove Damper or
Wire it Open
Insulation
(Optional)
Optional Face Seal
Non-Combustible
Material
9. To install the surround panels, follow the directions listed in the section "INSTALLING SURROUND
PANELS" .
Follow the installation instructions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.
Page 37
MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT INSTALLATION (Cont.)
Installation Using a Face Seal Connection
NOTE: It is recommended your chimney have a minimum 28 and a maximum of 144
square inch cross-sectional area to use a face seal connection, otherwise your chimney
may not have sufficient draw for the fireplace insert to operate correctly. If your chimney
does not fit within these parameters it is recommended you install a direct or positive connection.
Using a face seal connection allows you to use your existing masonry chimney with your new insert. The
advantages of a face seal connection are ease of installation and low cost. The directions below illustrate
the way to install a face seal connection with your insert.
1.
Inspect the masonry chimney to make sure the fireplace meets all of the rules outlined in the section
titled "CHIMNEY INFORMATION & REGULATIONS". Make sure the fireplace and chimney are
thoroughly cleaned and in good condition.
2. Follow all of the regulations and guidelines specified in the sections titled "FIREPLACE INSERT SPECIFICATIONS" and "PREPARATION FOR INSTALLATION - MASONRY FIREPLACE INSERT".
3. Wire open or remove the fireplace damper
4. Follow the directions specified in the section titled "SURROUND PANEL INSTALLATION" for
installation of the panels and the insulation. Insulation between the surround panels and the facing
of the fireplace is required.
5.
Take a look at the figure below. Make sure all of the items listed are completed.
Airtight Insulated
Clean-Out
Remove Damper or
Wire it Open
Insulation
(Required)
Face Seal (2" to
2 1/2" Overlap)
Non-Combustible
Material
Follow the installation instructions in reverse order for periodic inspection and cleaning.
Page 38
INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE
A block-off plate is used to prevent the exhaust going into a masonry fireplace from entering the inside of
the house. It ensures a tight seal between the masonry fireplace and the stove pipe leading through it. A
properly made block-off plate, coupled with either a positive or direct connection, provides the wood
heating appliance with a vacuum draw that pulls the flue gases out of the appliance and out the top of the
chimney. The directions below show how a block-off plate is made.
1.
Measure below damper area the width from side to side at rear of smoke chamber. Label this
Measurement "A".
2. Measure the width below damper area from side to side at front of smoke chamber. Label this
Measurement "B".
3. Measure the depth below damper front to back of smoke chamber. Label this Measurement "C".
4. Make a template of your measurements, but add 2" to each of the sides.
CROSS SECTION OF FIREPLACE
A
B
C
Your template should resemble the drawing on the next page with the dotted lines indicating your initial
measurements and the solid line indicating the additional 2". You will use this template to cut a piece of
sheet metal (minimum 24 gauge) to install in your smoke chamber.
The solid line will represent the shape of the piece of sheet metal cut while the dotted line will represent
where you will bend the sheet metal for installation. Mark the position of several holes on each side to
suit your specific installation, and drill 1/4" diameter holes.
Page 39
INSTALLATION OF A FIREPLACE BLOCK-OFF PLATE
(Continued)
Measurement "A"
Measurement "C"
}2 "
Measurement "B"
5. Bend the sheet metal as indicated on the template at a 45 degree angle on each side after cutting the
sheet metal (This 2" lip will allow you to screw this plate into the smoke chamber inside your
fireplace). The 2" lip with the 1/4" diameter holes will allow you to screw the plate to the firebox walls.
6. Determine the position of where to cut the 6-1/4" hole in the sheet metal plate so that it lines up with
the chimney flue opening and the final position of the wood burning appliance, then cut the hole. If
you are installing surround panels with your insert, refer to the section "SURROUND PANEL
INSTALLATION" for how to position your insert correctly.
7. Put the plate in position and drill the mounting holes. Then bolt into position using the mounting bolts.
The seal can be completed by using fiberglass insulation and/or furnace cement between the
masonry and the block-off plate.
NOTE: Allow the furnace cement to cure for 12 to 24 hours before starting a fire.
Page 40
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE
Location and Use of Controls
Combustion Air Control
The Combustion Air Control is located in the center under the ashlip and is operated by pushing or pulling
the control. When the control is completely pushed in, it is in the fully open position. When it is completely
pulled out, it is in the fully closed position.
Bypass Damper Control
The bypass Damper Control is located on the center top of the appliance, and is operated also by pushing
or pulling the control. When pulled out all the way, it is in the fully open position. When pushed in all the
way, it is in the fully closed position.
NOTE: The Bypass Damper Control becomes very hot during operation and should only
be controlled with the operating tool provided.
Bypass Damper Control
Combustion Air Control
Page 41
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)
To build a fire in disregard of the information provided in this section can cause
permanent damage to your appliance and void your warranty.
This appliance is not designed for use with the door open. Burning with the loading door open could
create a safety hazard.
Burning Procedure
1. Open the door and place some paper and kindling or a solid, wax impregnated firestarter inside the
appliance.
2.
Make sure that the combustion air intake control is fully open by pushing the control knob all the way
in. Open the bypass damper control, located on the top center of the appliance, by pulling it all the
way out.
3.
Now light the fire. Once the kindling is burning, add some small dry pieces of wood and close the
loading door and the bypass damper. NOTE: The first two or three fires in your new appliance will
cause the high temperature paint to give off a slight odor and a small amount of smoke. This is the
paint curing. For best results during the curing of the paint, burn small intense fires so the appliance
does not overheat. The high temperature paint cures best at medium temperatures. Also, the viewing
glass may become somewhat obscure the first few times, as your appliance is drying all moisture from
bricks and even the steel itself.
4.
Next add two or three medium size dry logs (use of green or wet wood in your appliance will develop
creosote, cloud glass, and greatly decrease its efficiency). At this time establish a hot fire with a bed
of red hot coals.
5.
To slow the rate of burn, you can close (pull out) the combustion air intake control (lower center of the
appliance) as needed.
6.
The bypass damper should be opened only when starting a fire, and when reloading the appliance.
NOTE:
Over-restricting the amount of combustion air into the appliance will cause creosote build-up on
glass and in the appliance and flue. This will also greatly decrease the efficiency of the
appliance.
Do not open the door of your appliance when the air control inlet is fully closed. There is
a possibility with a solid fuel burning appliance that doing so could result in a sudden
flash of flames as the fire ignites with oxygen. However, your Avalon 1196 has been
thoroughly safety tested to reduce this possibility.
If your home is a new, airtight energy efficient home, you may have to supply an outside
air inlet to prevent possible air starvation to appliance.
Page 42
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)
Burning Your Appliance Efficiently
Your Avalon 1196 is designed to heat your home efficiently with the lowest amount of creosote build-up
and pollutants emitted. The following steps provide a guideline to efficient burning:
On cold days, when you wish for high heat output from your appliance, load the appliance fully after the
fire has been established and burn at a medium-high to high burn mode. When a comfortable heat level
in your home has been reached, subsequent loadings would be of lesser amounts of wood. On warmer
days, burn smaller fires, using less wood. This method will give you the most efficient burn possible.
Although the fire will burn longer at a lower setting, your appliance will not produce as much heat and it
will increase soot accumulation on the appliance, chimney and glass.
For an overnight burn, establish a hot fire. Before you are ready to retire, completely fill the appliance with
wood. With the controls in the fully open position, let the fire burn intensely for 20-30 minutes. Next adjust
the draft control so that a low, lazy flame is visible. In the overnight burn, you should be able to maintain a
fire for about 10-12 hours, depending on the type of wood used, and still have a coal bed, with no visible
flame, left to start the morning fire. To re-establish a fire after an overnight burn, open the controls fully
and stir the ashes to bring hot coals to the surface. Then follow the instructions under "first fire". If you
dampen the fire down too low, you will not only lower the heat output, but you will be promoting creosote
build-up. It will take a few days of practice to achieve the desired settings.
APPROXIMATE COMBUSTION AIR CONTROL SETTINGS
TYPE OF BURN RATE
AIR CONTROL SETTING
Overnight Burn ................................................................................Fully Closed
Medium Burn ...................................................................................Open 1/16"
Medium High Burn..........................................................................Open 1/8" to 3/8"
High Burn .........................................................................................Fully Open
Daily Use of Your Appliance
During daily use of your appliance you will learn what rates of burn best accomodate your heating needs.
A stove thermometer is highly recommended. Approximate low burn is 300 degrees F., approximate
medium burn is 500 to 600 degrees F. and approximate high burn is 800 degrees F. with the thermometer
located on the top of the appliance.
Some helpful hints: After loading your appliance, open the air control and allow your appliance to burn
vigorously for 20 to 30 minutes. This will assist in the burn-off of any creosote which accumulates over
periods of extended use at low settings.
Page 43
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)
Wood
This appliance is designed to burn natural wood only. Higher efficiencies and lower emissions generally
result when you burn air dried, seasoned hardwoods as compared to softwoods or to green or freshly cut
hardwoods. DO NOT BURN treated wood, garbage, solvents, trash, coal, cardboard, colored paper, or
wax impregnated logs (i.e. Duraflame, etc.). Burning treated wood, garbage, solvents, colored paper or
driftwood from salt water may result in release of toxic fumes and may render the appliance ineffective
and void the limited warranty. Burning coal, cardboard or loose paper can produce soot, large flakes,
char or fly ash that can coat the inside of your appliance, causing smoke spillage into the room.
Choosing the kind of firewood to burn in your appliance depends on what is available to you. If all you
can obtain is softwoods, obviously, that will be your choice.
Softwoods such as pine and fir are easily ignited and burn rapidly with hot flames. Since they burn so
easily and quickly you will have to spend more time loading your firebox, especially in the high burn
mode. With softwoods it will be much more difficult to achieve an overnight burn. Furthermore, softwoods
make it necessary to reload the appliance more often. The chart below outlines the advantages of using
hardwood.
SPECIES*
LBS./CORD**
2540
ALDER
4400
APPLE
3440
ASH
3040
BIRCH
2060
CEDAR
2160
COTTONWOOD
4320
DOGWOOD
2260
ELM
2970
FIR, DOUGLAS
2700
HEMLOCK
3200
MAPLE
3680
OAK, RED
4200
OAK, WHITE
2250
PINE
2400
REDWOOD
2240
SPRUCE
* At 20% moisture content
** All values are approximate
BTU's/CORD**
19,050,000
33,000,000
25,800,000
22,800,000
15,450,000
16,200,000
31,725,000
16,950,000
22,275,000
20,250,000
24,000,000
27,600,000
31,500,000
16,875,000
18,000,000
16,800,000
Hours per Cord at 40,000 BTU's
per Hour**
476
825
645
705
386
405
793
423
556
506
600
690
787
421
450
420
If you have a choice it is best to use the more dense hardwoods for a longer lasting fire. The best
arrangement is to have a mix of softwoods and hardwoods for ease of start-up and a longer lasting fire.
Also, it is a good idea once the fire is established to use larger diameter logs stacked tightly together. This
will promote a longer burn time.
Wood is typically sold by the "cord". A cord is a nicely stacked pile of logs measuring 4 feet wide by 4 feet
high by 8 feet long. Always look for the driest wood especially if you purchase your wood by weight.
Unseasoned, wet wood is much heavier.
Moisture content of the wood greatly affects the way any appliance operates. Well seasoned wood (split,
stacked and kept dry for at least 12 months) is your best fuel choice.
Page 44
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)
Wood (Continued)
Wet wood not only causes more work for you due to the increase in weight making it more burdensome to
carry, but most importantly it will not burn as efficiently. You will receive less heat output from a wet piece
of wood because it wastes energy evaporating the water, energy that should be used for heating your
home. When a wet piece of wood is placed in your appliance it will also cause more creosote
accumulation on the glass, in the appliance, flue and chimney. The primary reason for this is, as the water
evaporates from the wood it will "spit" creosote-like material. If you can hear your wood sizzle or you can
see moisture bubbling from the ends of the logs placed in a HOT appliance, your wood is too wet!
Another big advantage to burning seasoned wood, aside from higher efficiency and less creosote, is
LESS POLLUTION!
Seasoning Wood
Green wood will burn, but seasoned or dry wood is lighter, has more heat value, and is less apt to form
creosote deposits. Any moisture in the wood reduces the recoverable heat because water absorbs heat
in the process of being changed to steam. The net heat from a pound of completely dry (no moisture)
hardwood is about 7,950 BTU's. All wood has some moisture in it which reduces the net usable heat at a
rate of 1,200 BTU's per pound of water.
The moisture in the wood of living trees varies among species, within a species, and even within
individual trees. Frequently, there is a significant difference between the quantity of moisture contained in
the central column of heartwood of a tree and the outer layers of sapwood which is surrounded with bark.
For example, freshly cut American beech has been found to have a heartwood moisture content of 72%.
In contrast, heartwood moisture contents in American elm, northern red oak, and white ash are 95, 80 and
46%, respectively.
When drying wood, the greater the surface area exposed to the air, the more rapid the drying. Therefore,
stack the wood in loose piles that are raised off the ground. Wood greater than 8 inches in diameter or
longer than 4 feet dries very slowly. Reduce the size of such sticks by splitting and/or sawing.
Page 45
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)
Seasoning Wood (Continued)
Place firewood in an open area to obtain rapid drying and to prevent deterioration. Preferably, put a cover
on the top tier of wood. If you cut trees in summer, let them lie for a week. The leaves will draw moisture
from the wood and dry it more quickly than if you limb the tree immediately.
Seasoning can be accelerated greatly by simply stacking fuelwood in a sunny location and then covering
it with clear plastic sheeting. In sunny weather, temperatures within the plastic covering will rise much
higher than outside, warming the wood and evaporating the contained moisture. The water vapor
produced either escapes or condenses on the plastic covering; therefore some arrangement for
ventilation is necessary. It is also desirable to hold the plastic away from the rough ends of the wood to
prevent abrasion, allow air to flow, and keep any condensation from re-wetting the wood.
SOLAR WOOD DRYER
In sunny weather, the temperature within the dryer rises much higher than outside temperatures, warming
the wood and evaporating the contained moisture.
Cover with 4 mil Polyethylene
Air flow
Prevailing
Winds
Raise stack off
the ground to
increase air flow
Air flow
Air flow
Many arrangements for plastic covering are possible. Thin 2 millimeter, clear polyethylene sheeting sold
for drop cloths or garden mulching is not recommended because it is easily torn. The 4 millimeter
thickness is more satisfactory and less costly than 6 millimeter. Any clear polyethylene deteriorates badly
after a few months of exposure to full sunlight, so the stack may have to be re-roofed to remain dry over
winter.
Page 46
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)
Seasoning Wood (Continued)
The bathroom scales can be used to check if firewood is still seasoning. Weigh a basket or bag of a few
pieces of firewood. Place them back in the wood pile as an identified unit. Then weigh them again in
about a month. If they have lost weight, the wood is still drying. Cracks that appear in the end of logs are
good signs that the wood is well seasoned.
Generally, wood that is 1) cut to length, 2) split, and 3) stacked in the open, preferably with a cover, during
the winter, should be thoroughly seasoned by the next heating season.
Storing Wood
Firewood is best stored outdoors, under cover and near the house so that valuable space in the house is
not used, insects are kept outside, and the dirt problem is reduced. Store the wood under cover to keep it
dry and its fuel value high. It can be stored in a wood shed, utility building, garage or under a sheet of
plastic or sheet metal roofing.
When drying wood, the greater the surface area exposed to the air, the more rapid the drying. Wood
greater than 8" in diameter or longer than 4' dries very slowly. Reduce the size of such sticks by splitting
and/or sawing. Be sure to keep an air space between the wood and any covering. Stack the wood in
loose piles that are raised off the ground. This will promote air circulation that helps dry the wood.
TYPICAL WOOD SHED
Sheet Metal Roofing
2x4 Purlins
2x6x12 Rafter
2x8x8' Girder
4x4x2 Posts Spaced 8' Apart
Siding and Girts
(Optional)
8' Width
3' Depth
Page 47
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)
Storing Wood (Continued)
If sufficient space is available under a roof, seasoning and storage can be accomplished in one handling.
This practice eliminates the extra handling of moving wood that has been dried outside into a covered
storage area.
Outside, wood will dry to between 14 and 25% moisture content depending on humidity, temperature, and
wind. In a garage or woodshed it may dry to between 10 and 15% moisture content; and wood may dry to
between 5 and 12% in the house.
End braces can be used if you have difficulty stacking wood and if the pile collapses at either end.
Constructed with two-by-fours, end braces are like book ends and can be built to accurately measure a
standard cord. The boards beneath the woodpile keep the bottom row off wet ground.
In some homes a wood box can be constructed inside the house, convenient to the wood appliance and
which has loading access outside. The access door to the wood box from the outside of the house should
be tight fitting.
Page 48
OPERATING YOUR APPLIANCE (Continued)
SAFETY IN OPERATION
The Following Safety Rules Should Be Followed Whenever Using Your Appliance:
1.
Do not use this appliance for any purpose other than heating. Burn solid
wood fuels only.
2.
Never use gasoline, gasoline-type lantern fuel, kerosene, engine oil,
charcoal lighter fluid, or similar liquids to start or "freshen up" a fire. Keep
all such liquids well away from the appliance while it is in use.
3.
Do not burn garbage in your appliance, or use chemicals or fluids to start
the fire.
4.
Use caution when loading fuel into the appliance after it is already burning
vigorously.
5.
Do not over-fire the appliance at any time. If the appliance glows red, it is
over-fired.
6.
Keep all household combustibles and appliance fuel at least 3 feet from
the appliance at all times. Store fuel in a dry place well away from the
appliance.
7.
Do not support or elevate the fire off of the firebrick. Burn the fire directly
on the bricks. Do not use a grate.
8.
Educate your children of the dangers associated with fire and the
presence of a hot appliance. Touching a radiating surface can cause
serious burns. Child guards are available through your dealer.
9.
Keep loading door closed at all times except to load fuel.
10.
Avoid placing logs and fire against viewing glass.
11.
Maintain the door and glass seal and keep them in good condition.
12.
Do not modify your combustion air control to allow more air into your
appliance.
13.
Do not burn any kind of coal in this appliance.
14.
Do not slam door or strike glass.
Page 49
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
Maintenance Schedule
The following schedule should be followed to insure your appliance stays in peak condition.
Weekly Maintenance: The following should be done once a week:
ASH DISPOSAL
BRASS CLEANING
GLASS CLEANING
Bi-Monthly Maintenance: The following should be done every two months:
CHECK FOR CREOSOTE
DOOR AND GLASS GASKET INSPECTION
LUBRICATE THE DOOR HINGE AND CONTROLS
Yearly Maintenance: The following should be done after each heating season:
FIREBRICK REMOVAL AND CLEANING
APPLIANCE TOUCH-UP
BLOWER CLEANING (If Applicable)
Maintenance Instructions
ASH DISPOSAL
During constant periods of use ashes must be periodically removed from the appliance to prevent a buildup which will affect the performance and limit the fuel load capacity.
Ashes should be placed in a metal container with a tight fitting lid. The closed container of ashes should
be stored on a non-combustible floor or on the ground, well away from any combustible material, pending
final disposal. If the ashes are to be disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they
should be retained in the closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste must not
be placed in this container.
BRASS CLEANING
Your Avalon 1196 may come with a solid brass door, ashlip trim and panel trim, which will require
periodic attention to retain its luster. Use a non-abrasive polish, such as "FLITZ" on the solid brass door
and clean it only when it is cool. A suitable polish is available at your dealer. The brass ashlip and panel
trim should only be cleaned with soap and water. The use of ANY type of brass polish will damage the
finish.
GLASS CLEANING
Clean the glass only when the appliance is cool, using a non-abrasive cleaner. If glass cracks or breaks,
let the appliance cool before replacing it. DO NOT OPERATE THE APPLIANCE WITH BROKEN OR
MISSING GLASS. IF THE GLASS DOES BREAK, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS IN THE SECTION TITLED
"REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS" FOR REPLACING THE GLASS.
Page 50
CARE AND MAINTENANCE (Continued)
DOOR AND GLASS GASKET INSPECTION
A damaged or deteriorated glass or door gasket will allow air to enter the appliance through the space
between the door and firebox. This will allow smoke to enter the room and hamper efficient burning.
Inspect the door gasket to make sure it is flexible and completely intact. Any torn, broken, or flattened
gaskets should be replaced by following the directions in the section titled "REPLACEMENT PARTS AND
REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS".
DOOR
Door Gasket
Glass Gasket
(Between Glass
and Door)
Ceramic Glass
Door Cam &
Assembly
Glass Clip with
Gasket
Glass Clip Screw
LUBRICATE THE DOOR HINGE AND CONTROLS
It is highly recommended that you periodically lubricate any moving parts such as the door hinges,
combustion air control and bypass damper control rods. This will eliminate any scraping or squeaking
noises as well as allow the parts to move freely. A high temperature lubricant, such as Permatex
Industrial (R) Anti-seize lubricant, is required. Graphite or low-temperature lubricants will only last a few
days.
CHECK FOR CREOSOTE
Creosote is a tarry liquid or solid resulting from the distilling of wood during the combustion process.
Using wet wood or burning at lower temperatures will result in a heavier creosote deposit. Creosote
vapors will condense in a relatively cool chimney flue of a slow burning fire. As a result, creosote residue
accumulates on the interior surface of the chimney and flue pipes, considerably reducing their diameter.
When ignited, this creosote makes an extremely hot and dangerous fire. The chimney should be
inspected at least once every 2 months during the heating season to determine if a creosote build-up of
approximately 1/4" has accumulated. If this is the case, the creosote should be removed to reduce the risk
of a chimney fire.
Most problems with creosote are due to poor chimneys with low draft and/or cold walls, and to a low rate
of burn when little heat is needed during the spring and fall months. Burning green and resinous wood
also creates creosote.
To prevent creosote accumulation
1. Burn your appliance with the combustion air control wide open for 20 to 30 minutes daily during the
burning season. This will burn out creosote deposits in your appliance.
Page 51
CARE AND MAINTENANCE (Continued)
CHECK FOR CREOSOTE (Continued)
2. Burn the appliance with the combustion air control wide open for about 20 minutes every time you
add fresh wood. This allows the wood to achieve the charcoal stage faster and burns the wood
vapors which might otherwise be deposited within the system.
3. Burn only seasoned, dry wood. Seasoned wood is wood that has been dried for at least one year.
4. A small, more intense fire is preferable to a large smoldering one that will deposit creosote within the
system.
5. Establish a routine for using your new appliance. Be aware that the hotter the fire, the less creosote is
deposited on the glass and chimney system. Weekly inspection and cleaning may be necessary
during times of heavy appliance usage. Contact your local fire authority for information on how to
handle a chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle such a fire.
6. We recommend you have your chimney system and appliance checked and cleaned by a competent
chimney sweep twice a year.
FIREBOX INSPECTION AND CLEANING
At the end of each heating season, remove all of the ash inside the firebox and check for any scale that
may have built up during the heating season. Remove any scale from the inside of the firebox with a wire
brush or scraper. With a flashlight check to see that all of the firebrick lining the firebox is in good
condition. If any of the firebrick is cracked or broken, follow the directions in the section titled
"REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS" for removal and replacement of any
damaged firebrick.
APPLIANCE TOUCH-UP
The outside of the appliance can be touched up using high temperature "Forrest Stove-Brite" paint,
available at your dealer. This will improve the looks of your appliance, but is not necessary. To touch up
paint, first sand the area to be painted with 120 grit sandpaper, clean it with water only, and dry with a
clean cloth. Paint using light covering coats. The newly painted area will appear darker until the paint
goes through the curing process.
BLOWER CLEANING (If Applicable)
You should remove your blower from the appliance at least twice a year for cleaning. Dust will
accumulate on the blower cover as well as the blower motor and impellers. These parts should be
cleaned to insure adequate flow of air and minimize strain on the motor.
Refer to the directions for installing your blower in the section titled "FREESTANDING OPTIONAL
EQUIPMENT" for freestanding models and "INSERT OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT" for insert models . Follow
the directions in reverse order to remove the blower assembly. On freestanding models you need not
remove the thermodisk. Brush away or vacuum all flyash that may have accumulated. Follow the
directions for installing your blower to re-assemble.
Page 52
BEFORE CALLING FOR SERVICE
SAVE TIME AND MONEY - CHECK THIS LIST BEFORE YOU CALL FOR SERVICE
To eliminate unnecessary service calls, first read all the instructions in this manual carefully. The
following checklist provides possible solutions to common occurrences that are not the result of defective
workmanship or materials in this appliance.
If you do have a problem that you cannot fix yourself, call the dealer where you purchased your appliance.
When calling, have this manual handy with the model, serial number and purchase date of your
appliance.
Problem
Possible Cause
Don't Call for Service
Until You Check
Start-up fire extinguishes
itself.
¥ Combustion air inlet
blocked.
¥ Combustion air inlet is not
blocked.
¥ Combustion air control
closed.
¥ Combustion air control is
open.
¥ Bad Fuel.
¥ Wood is dry & seasoned.
¥ Restricted Flue.
¥ Chimney is clean &
unrestricted.
¥ Poor Draft.
¥ Sufficient chimney length &
correct size.
¥ Restricted chimney or
reverse flow (down draft).
¥ Chimney is clean &
unrestricted.
Lazy orange smoky flame.
Smoke smell inside house.
¥ Chimney is not receiving a
down draft due to wind or
other obstruction.
Appliance won't shut down.
¥ Air leak from faulty door or
glass gasket.
¥ Door and glass gasket are
in good condition and
sealing properly.
¥ Door is out of adjustment.
¥ Door is aligned with the
opening so the door gasket
makes an airtight fit around
the opening.
¥ Air leak from faulty door or
glass gasket.
¥ Door and glass gasket are
in good condition and
sealing properly.
¥ Door is out of alignment.
¥ Door is aligned with the
opening so the door gasket
makes an airtight fit around
the opening.
Page 53
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
Several components inside your appliance are serviceable by you. These components are usually easy
to remove and replace without special tools. Before you attempt to carry out any of these steps, be sure to
read through the entire section. To order new parts, use the chart below to order the appropriate part
number through your dealer. Use only parts from your dealer made specifically for your appliance.
Replacement Parts
Part Name
Part Number
Part Description
Door Gasket
90-1510
7/8" Dia. Round Fiberglass
Glass Gasket
90-1495
3/8" Flat Fiberglass
Door Glass
90-1420
19 1/8" x 10 1/4"
Firebrick (note size)
90-4000
1 1/4" x 4 1/2" x 9"
Secondary Air Tubes
90-5000
Two Tubes, 21 1/4" Long
Front Baffle Support Angle ("Y" Bar)
90-5030
22" Long
Rear Baffle Support Angle ("T" Bar)
22" Long
By-Pass Damper Adjustment Tool
90-2010
Door Handle
90-2050
Wood
Air Control Handle
90-2055
Wood
By-Pass Damper Handle
90-2012
Owner's Manual
90-3005
Glass Clip with Gasket
92-1480
Air Control/Plate with Springs
90-2060
Door Cam
90-2041
Removal Instructions
The remaining text in this section details the items below. Make sure to follow the directions closely when
performing one of the procedures. If re-assembly directions are not given with the instructions, reassemble by following the directions in reverse order. All of these procedures can be done without
special tools.
¥ Removing and Replacing the Glass
¥ Removing and Replacing the Glass Gasket
¥ Removing and Replacing the Door Gasket
¥ Removing and Replacing the Firebricks
¥ Removing and Replacing the Secondary Air Tubes
Page 54
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
(Continued)
Removing and Replacing the Glass
DO NOT OPERATE THE APPLIANCE WITH BROKEN OR MISSING GLASS. IF THE GLASS DOES
BREAK, FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS BELOW FOR REPLACING THE GLASS.
To replace the glass, simply remove the glass clips on the back of the door by removing the screws.
Replace only with Neoceram 5mm thick, available from your dealer.
The gasket must be placed in the groove provided in the door. Door gaskets to be used are 7/8"
fiberglass weave. Glass gaskets to be used are 3/8" fiberglass weave. Glass clips must have 1/4" selfadhesive fiberglass gasket tape on them before tightening screws (the glass must not touch the door).
DOOR
Door Gasket
Glass Gasket
(Between Glass
and Door)
Ceramic Glass
Door Cam &
Assembly
Glass Clip with
Gasket
Glass Clip Screw
Removing and Replacing the Glass Gasket
A damaged or deteriorated glass gasket will allow air to enter the appliance through the space between
the door and glass. This may cause smoke to enter the room and hamper efficient burning. To replace
the glass gasket, follow the directions for removal of the glass and when re-installing, place the new
gasket in place.
Removing and Replacing the Door Gasket
A damaged or deteriorated door gasket will allow air to enter the appliance through the space between
the door and firebox. This will allow smoke to enter the room and hamper efficient burning. The door
gasket is held in place with special cement made to withstand extreme heat. To remove the gasket,
carefully pull the gasket away from the door and scrape any excess cement off the door. To replace, use
the manufacturer's gasket and cement (provided by your dealer) and re-attach the gasket, making sure it
is aligned properly around the opening.
Page 55
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
(Continued)
Removing and Replacing the Firebricks
The firebricks inside your wood-burning appliance are used to store the radiating heat and create a more
thorough combustion inside the firebox. Occasionally one of them will crack and require replacement.
The directions below are divided into three sections, each section addressing either the baffle (top)
firebricks, side and back firebricks, or floor (bottom) firebricks. Before any bricks are removed, make sure
the appliance is cool and cleaned out. The chart below describes the number and size of bricks by
placement.
# of Firebricks
Floor (bottom)
Side and Back
Baffle (top)
Full Size (9" by 4 1/2" with Half Size (4 1/2" by 4 1/2" Cut Size (4 1/2" by 7" with
a 1 1/4" thickness)
with a 1 1/4" thickness)
7
11
6
1
a 1 1/4" thickness)
1
REMOVING THE FLOOR (BOTTOM) FIREBRICKS
1.
Make sure the appliance is cool and
cleaned out.
2. Remove the door by opening it 90
degrees and pulling it upwards. Make
sure to grasp the door by both ends. It
is heavy and can be damaged easily.
3. Remove the center forward firebrick by
lifting its front top edge (see illustration
below). Do not use any object to pry
the firebrick, for this may cause the
firebrick to chip or crack.
4. Remove the rest of the front bricks, one
by one, following the order listed in the
illustration to the right. Remove the
rear bricks in the order listed.
5. To replace the floor firebricks, follow
these directions in reverse order,
placing the bricks snug against the
firebricks lining the side of the firebox.
4
5
2
6
7
1
8
3
Page 56
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
(Continued)
Removing and Replacing the Firebricks (Continued)
REMOVING THE SIDE AND BACK FIREBRICKS
1.
Follow the directions for removing
the floor firebricks.
2. Once the floor firebricks are
removed, the side firebricks can be
pivoted out from behind the metal
clips that hold the firebricks in
place. Grasp the bricks, one at a
time, from the floor and pivot them
out from the bottom. See the
diagram to the right to see the
order of removal.
Metal clips that hold firebricks in place
10
5
2
9
6
1
8
7
3. To replace the side and back
firebricks, follow these directions in
reverse order, placing the bricks
snug against each other and
against the walls of the firebox.
11
3
4
REMOVING THE BAFFLE (TOP) FIREBRICKS & COMPONENTS
1.
Make sure the appliance is
cool and cleaned out.
2. Remove the door by opening
it and pulling it upwards.
Make sure to grasp the door
by both ends. It is heavy and
can be damaged.
5
6
2
7
1
3. Take a close look at the
exploded view for this section
(two pages down). Note the
position of the Front Baffle
Angle (referred to as the "Y"
Bar). It must be lifted and
rotated to expose the first line
of firebricks. Note the
drawing titled "Rotating the YBar" to see the before and
after affect of rotating the YBar. When rotating the Y-Bar
you will force the first row of
bricks to form a slight angle.
4
3
Page 57
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
(Continued)
Removing and Replacing the Firebricks (Continued)
REMOVING THE BAFFLE (TOP) FIREBRICKS & COMPONENTS (Continued)
4. With the "Y" Bar rotated, pull the front
three bricks over the "Y" Bar and out of
the appliance (bricks #1 through #3 in
the illustration on the preceding page).
ROTATING THE "Y" BAR
(Front Baffle Angle)
"Y Bar Before Rotation
(Cut-Away View from the Side)
5. Remove the "Y" Bar.
6. Remove the Rear Baffle Angle (referred
to as the "T" Bar) by sliding it out in a
forward direction. This will cause some
of the back bricks to tilt slightly.
"Y" Bar
First Row of Firebricks
7. Pull out the two bricks that are touching
the side walls of the firebox (bricks #4
and #5). These are tight, so some force
may be needed to pull them out.
AIr Induction System
8. Slide the remaining bricks to the side,
being careful to catch the damper plate
and damper when they no longer rest on
top of these two bricks (bricks #6 through
#8).
"Y" Bar After Rotation
9. Remove the remaining bricks along with
the damper plate and damper.
REPLACING THE BAFFLE (TOP) FIREBRICKS & COMPONENTS
1. Place two bricks in the far rear of the appliance so they rest on top of the air induction system and are
approximately 9" apart.
2. Place the damper on top of the damper plate, with the two slots of the damper plate close to you.
Insert the damper plate with the damper resting on top of it so the two pieces rest on one of the bricks
placed in the far rear. It will rest at a slight angle to the left or the right, depending on which firebrick
you placed it on.
3. Line up the damper rod so the two pegs are directly above the two slots on the damper. They must be
inserted into the two slots for your damper control to work.
4. Lift the damper plate onto the other firebrick, making sure the damper rod is inserted into the damper.
The damper plate should be level and centered in your appliance. Test the damper control by gently
pushing it back in forth, checking to see if the damper moves. If it does move correctly, proceed. If the
damper does not move, remove one of the firebircks, re-align the damper, and proceed with this step
again.
Page 58
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
(Continued)
Removing and Replacing the Firebricks (Continued)
REPLACING THE BAFFLE (TOP) FIREBRICKS & COMPONENTS (Continued)
5. Slide two more firebricks into the rear of the appliance. They will fit very snug, so some effort may be
required. The firebricks will not lie flat until the "T" Bar is placed into position.
6. Slide the "T"
Bar into
position,
making sure it
goes under the
back firebricks.
EXPLODED VIEW OF BAFFLE (TOP) FIREBRICK
REMOVAL
Damper Rod
Damper
7. Place the "Y"
Bar into
position, but
rotate it so that
it looks like the
drawing on the
previous page:
"Y Bar after
Rotation".
Damper
Plate
Firebricks
8. Slide the
forward
firebricks into
position. The
smaller
firebrick
should be in
the middle.
Rear Baffle Angle
("T" Bar)
Front Bafle Angle
("Y" Bar)
9. Rotate the "Y"
Bar so that it
looks like the
drawing on the
previous page:
"Y Bar before
Rotation".
Air Induction System
(Welded to the sidewalls
of the appliance)
Clips where
"T" Bar rests
Clips where
"Y" Bar rests
Secondary Air Tubes
Page 59
REPLACEMENT PARTS AND REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS
(Continued)
Removing and Replacing the Secondary Air Tubes
The secondary air tubes are two tubes with holes that run along the top of the firebox. Over time they may
wear and become ineffective. The secondary air tubes should be replaced if they crack or show severe
deterioration, because they supply air into the firebox that allows for a more efficient fire. There are two
secondary air tubes, one is in the front of the firebox and the other is in back. These parts are available
from your dealer.
To remove either
secondary air tube, first
remove the two pins
located on the right side
of the firebox that hold
the tube in place.
These pins are
removed by using a
screwdriver or needlenose pliers to pry them
out of their holes. The
pins are held in place
by flanges on the pins
that expand once they
are pushed into the
hole. Therefore, you
may have to pry with
some amount of force
when trying to remove
them.
Secondary Air Tube
Air Induction
System (Welded
to side of Firebox)
Collar
Pins that hold Secondary
Air Tube and Collar in Place
Slide collar to the
left after removing
both of the pins.
Short Tube that is
welded to the Air
Induction System
One pin holds the secondary air tube to a collar while the other pin holds the collar to a short tube welded
to the air induction system. Once both pins are removed, the collar can be slid to the left and the
secondary air tube and collar can be pulled down and away from the left side. To replace the secondary
air tube, place the collar on the secondary air tube, insert the secondary air tube into the hole on the left
side of the firebox, and slide the collar over to the right so it slides over the short tube that is welded to the
air induction system on the right side. Then line up the secondary air tube and collar so the holes for the
pins line up and insert both new pins that are included with the replacement air tube kit.
Page 60
5-YEAR WARRANTY
TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. warrants the AVALON 1196 appliance to be defect-free in material and workmanship for five (5) years from the date of purchase, with the
exception of the glass, paint, refractory, removable baffle parts and blowers. The blowers and removable baffle parts are warranted for one (1) year from the date of
purchase to be defect - free in material and workmanship. The glass, paint and refractory are not warranted.
Exclusions to this limited warranty include: Injury, malfunction to the product, loss, damage, defect, failure to function due to accident, negligence, misuse, improper
installation, alteration or adjustment of the manufacturer's settings of components, lack of proper and regular maintenance, damage incurred while the appliance is in
transit, alteration, or act of God.
This limited warranty excludes damage caused by normal wear and tear, such as paint discoloration or chipping, worn or torn gasketing, eroded or cracked refractory, etc.
Also excluded is damage to the appliance caused by abuse, improper installation, the use of fuel or fuel loads other than specified by the manufacturer or use not set forth in
the OwnerÕs Manual. An over-fired condition will cause warped metal parts and discolored or burned-off paint.
TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. is free of liability for any damages caused by the appliance, as well as inconvenience expenses, material and labor charges incurred by the
removal or reinstallation of any AVALON appliance. Incidental or consequential damages are not covered by this warranty. In some states, the exclusion of incidental or
consequential damage may not apply.
This warranty does not cover any loss or damage incurred by the use or removal of any component or apparatus to or from the AVALON appliance appliance without the
express written permission of TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. and bearing a TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. label of approval.
Any statement or representation of AVALON products and their performance contained in AVALON advertising, packaging literature, or printed material is not part of this
limited warranty.
This warranty is automatically voided if the applianceÕs serial number has been removed or altered in any way.
Only the original purchaser of an AVALON appliance is covered by this warranty. If the appliance is used for commercial purposes, it is excluded from this warranty.
No dealer, distributor, or similar person has the authority to represent or warrant AVALON products beyond the terms contained within this warranty. TRAVIS
INDUSTRIES, INC. assumes no liability for such warranties or representations.
THIS LIMITED WARRANTY IS THE ONLY WARRANTY SUPPLIED BY TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., THE MANUFACTURER OF THE APPLIANCES. ALL OTHER
WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, ARE HEREBY EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMED AND PURCHASERÕS RECOURSE IS EXPRESSLY LIMITED TO
THE WARRANTIES SET FORTH HEREIN.
This warranty is limited to the time frame set forth above. In some states, time limitations on warranties do not apply.
HOW TO USE YOUR TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. FIVE-YEAR WARRANTY: If you find your appliance to be defective in workmanship or material within a 5-year
period from the date of purchase contact your local authorized AVALON dealer. If your dealer is unable to repair your appliance's defect, you may process a warranty
claim through TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., including the name of the dealership where you purchased the appliance, a copy of your receipt showing the date of the
appliance's purchase, and the serial number on your appliance. At that time, you will be asked to ship your appliance, freight charges prepaid, to TRAVIS INDUSTRIES,
INC. TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., at its option, will repair or replace, free of charge, your AVALON appliance if it is found to be defective in material or workmanship
within the time frame stated within this limited warranty. In addition, TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. will refurbish your appliance at no charge to you, restoring its
appearance and condition. TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. will ship your appliance, freight charges prepaid by TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., to your regional distributor, or
dealership.
To register your TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC. Five-Year Warranty, complete the enclosed warranty card and mail it within ten (10) days of the appliance purchase date to:
TRAVIS INDUSTRIES, INC., 10850 117th Place N.E., Kirkland, WA 98033.
OTHER RIGHTS:
This warranty provides you with certain legal rights. You may have additional rights, which vary from state to state, in regards to this warranty.
APPLIANCE SERIAL NUMBER
Complete
and save
for your
records
DATE OF PURCHASE
DEALER NAME AND ADDRESS
Travis Industries, Inc. reserves the right to change, without notice, product features or specifications described.
Page 61
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