Westerbeke DS 5, DS 7, W 7 null

Westerbeke DS 5, DS 7, W 7 null
TECHNICAL MANUAL
WESTERBEKE DS5, DS7, W7
Marine Diesel Engines
WESTERBEKE WPD3, WPD4
Marine Diesel Generators
Publication #12310
Edition Three
June 1978
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WESTERBEKECORPORATION
MYLES STANDISH INDUSTRIAL PARK
150 JOHN HANCOCK ROAD, TAUNTON, MA 02780-7319
TECHNICAL MANUAL
WESTERBEKE DS5, DS7, W7
Marine Diesel Engines
WESTERBEKE WPD3, WPD4
Marine Diesel Generators
Publication #12310
Edition Three
June 1978
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WESTERBEKE CORPORATION
MYLES STANDISH INDUSTRIAL PARK
150 JOHN HANCOCK ROAD, TAUNTON, MA 02780-7319
WESTERBEKE 7
r~ARINE
ENGINE
1
WESTERBEKE 7 SPECIFICATIONS
Type: One cylinder four cycle vertical diesel.
Displacement: 18.5 cu. in. (303 cc.); bore 3", stroke 25/8 ".
Power: 7 hp. at 3600 rpm continuous.
Compression Ratio: 17:1.
Weight: 1861b. with 2:1 reduction gear.
Cylinder Block: Aluminum.
Cylinder: Cast Iron.
Cylinder Head: Aluminum.
Crankshaft: Steel, counterbalanced.
Connecting Rod: Forged Steel.
Piston: Aluminum.
Bearings: rri metal.
Lubrication: Full pressure to main and large end bearings.
Full flow integral replaceable lube oil filter.
Cooling System: Fresh water cooling with heat exchanger.
Installation Angle: 15° maximum.
Fuel System: Bryce injection pump, variable speed
governor with automatic overload control. Camshaft
driven fuel lift pump with hand primer.
Fuel Consumption: See fuel consumption curve.
Electrical System: 12-volt starter, 55-amp alternator.
Transmission: Paragon/Westerbeke 2:1 reduction and
reverse gear w.ith positive neutral.
Standard Equipment: 2:1 manual reverse and reduction
gear; electric starter, 55-amp alternator, factory prewiring with push-button start; closed circuit cooling
system with heat exchanger, fresh and raw water
pumps mounted; adjustable flexible engine mounts;
full flow lube oil filter, sump pump and hose; fireshielded flexi ble hose connections for fuel supply and
return, secondary fuel oil filter, fuel lift pump with
hand primer; threaded 1" IPS exhaust flange; mounting brackets for control cables; illustrated parts list
and instruction manual.
Optional Equipment: Pre-wired instrument panel, indicating oil pressure, water temperature, and amps, with
10-foot plug-in cable; Hydro-hush stainless steel
water lift muffler; water-injected exhaust elbow;
primary fuel oi I filter; flexi ble shaft coupling; sea water
strainer; on-board spare parts kit.
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WPO-4 MARINE GENERATOR
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WESTERBEKE WPD-4 SPECIFICATIONS
Engine: Single cylinder, fresh water cooled four cycle
diesel.
Displacement: 18.5 cu. in. (303 cc); bore 3", stroke 25/8 ".
Power: 7 hp. at 3600 rpm.
Cooling: Fresh water cooling with heat exchanger.
Starting: Engine mounted 12-volt starting motor.
Lubrication: Full pressure to main and connecting rod
bearings. Full flow integral replaceable lube oil
filter.
Mounting: Engine-generator assem bly is mounted on
aluminum drip-pan base with heavy duty shielded
rubber mounts to minimize vibration.
Fuel System: Bryce injection pump, governed to 3600 rpm.
Camshaft-drive fuel lift pump with hand primer.
Fuel Consumption: Approx. 0.45 gallons per hour at full
output.
Alternator: Rotating field, single bearing with shaftmounted fan.
Output: 4000 watts for continuous operation; up to 33
amps, 120 volts, AC. 12 volts DC, 0-8 amps for battery
charging.
Frequency: 60 Hertz.
Phase: Single.
Power Factor: Unity.
Controls: Angle-mounted on top of generator for visi bility.
Cover swings up for easy servicing. Electric start and
stop. Solid state battery charging control circuit
reduces heat, increases efficiency and reliability, and
is immune to vi bration and shock. High water temperature/low oil pressure shut down.
Weight: 233 I bs.
Standard Equipment: Integral drip-pan base with vi bration isolators and drain plug; closed circuit cooling
system with heat exchanger, fresh and raw water
pumps mounted; full flow lube oil filter, sump pump
and hose; fire shielded flexible hose connections for
fuel supply and return, secondary fuel oil filter, fuel
lift pump with hand primer; electric start and fuel shut
off; high water temperature/low oil pressure shut
down; battery charge circuit with charge indicator
light; 1" IPS threaded exhaust flange; illustrated
parts list and instruction manual.
Optional Equipment: Remote start; shore transfer switch;
high capacity primary fuel filter; water injected exhaust el bow; Hydro-hush stainless steel water lift
muffler; sea water strainer; on-board spare parts kit.
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MODEL D S MARINE ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS
ENGI NE: Single cylinder, water cooled four cycle diesel.
DISPLACEMENT: 15.9 cu. in; bore 3 in. stroke 2-1/4 in.
POWER: 5 hp. at 3000 rpm.
COOLING: Positive displacement rubber impeller raw water pump.
STARTING: Engine-mounted 12 volt starting motor.
LUBRICATION: Full pressure to main and connecting rod bearings.
integral replaceable lube oil filter.
Full flow
FUEL SYSTEM: Bryce injection pump, governed to 3000 rpm. Camshaft-drive
fuel lift pump with hand primer.
FUEL CONSUMPTION: Approx. 0.45 gallons per hour at full output.
MOUNTlI'G: Engine-rails on propeller shaft center Iine with height adjustment
nuts locked in place, mounted on flexible engine mounts.
INSTALLATION ANGLE: 150 maximum
TRANSMISSION: Paragon/Westerbeke 2:1 reduction and reverse gear with
posi ti ve neutral.
SIZE: See drawing above.
WEIGHT: 187 Ibs. with 2:1 reduction gear.
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MODEL WPD-3 MARINE GENERATOR SPECIFICATIONS
ENGINE: Single cylinder, water cooled four cycle diesel.
DISPLACEMENT: 15. 9 cu. in.; bore 3 in.; stroke 2-1/4 in.
POWER: 5. 5 hp at 3600 rpm.
COOLING: Positive displacement rubber impeller raw water pump.
STARTING: Engine-mounted 12 volt starting motor.
LUBRICATION: Full pressure to main and connecting rod bearings.
integral replaceable lube oil filter.
Full flow
MOUNTING: Engine- generator assembly is mounted on aluminum drip-pan base
with heavy duty shielded rubber mounts to minimize vibration.
FUEL SYSTEM: Bryce injection pump, governed to 3600 rpm.
fuel lift pump with hand primer.
Camshaft-drive
FUEL CONSUMPTION: Approx. 0.45 gallons per hour at full output.
ALTERNATOR: Rotating field, single bearing with shaft-mounted fan.
OUTPUT: 3000 watts for continuous operation; 25 amps, 120 volts AC.
DC, 0-5 amps for battery charging.
12 volts
FREQUENCY: 60 Hertz.
PHASE: Single
POWER FACTOR: Unity.
CONTROLS: Angle-mounted on top of generator for visibility. Cover swings up
for easy servicing. Start- stop toggle switch. Solid state battery charging
control circuit reduces heat, increases efficiency and reliability, and is
immune to vibration and shock. Charge indicator light.
SIZE: See drawing above.
WEIGHT: 233 lbs.
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT: Remote start shore power transfer switch-highcapacity primary fuel oil filter-exhaust silencer-automatic shut-down due
to low oil pressure or high water temperature - safety control electric fuel
shut off.
3
SECTION INDEX
GENERAL
Introduction
Installation
Operation
Maintenance
ENGINE OVERHAUL
OTHER OVERHAUL
Marine Engine Electrical System
Cooling System (External)
Transmissions
GENERATOR SETS
HYDRAULIC CRANKING SYSTEM
SERVICE BULLETINS
4
YOUR NOTES
INTRODUCTION
5
IMPORTANT
THIS MANUAL IS A DETAILED GUIDE TO THE INSTALLATION, START-UP, OPERATION
AND MAINTENANCE OF YOUR WESTERBEKE MARINE DIESEL ENGINE. THE INFORMATION IT CONTAINS IS VITAL TO THE ENGINE'S DEPENDABLE, LONG TERM OPERATION.
READ IT
KEEP IT IN A SAFE PLACE
KEEP IT HANDY FOR REFERENCE AT ALL TIMES
FAILURE TO DO SO WILL INVITE SERIOUS RISK, NOT ONLY TO YOUR INVESTMENT,
BUT YOUR SAFETY AS WELL.
UNDERSTANDING THE DIESEL ....
The diesel engine closely resembles the
gasoline engine inasmuch as the mechanism
is essentially the same. Its cylinders
are arranged above its closed crankcase;
its crankshaft is of the same general type
as that of a gasoline engine; it has the
same sort of valves, camshaft, pistons,
connecting rods, lubricating system and
reverse and reduction gear.
Therefore, it follows to a great extent
that a diesel engine requires the same
preventative maintenance as that which any
intelligent operator would give to a gasoline engine. The most important factors
are proper maintenance of the fuel, lubricating and cooling systems. Replacement
of fuel and lubricating filter elements at
the time periods specified is a must, and
frequent checking for contamination (Le.
water, sediment etc.) in the fuel system
is also essential. Another important
factor is the use of the same brand of
"high detergent" diesel lubricating oil
designed specifically for diesel engines.
The diesel engine does differ from the
gasoline engine, however, in the method of
handling and firing its fuel. The carburetor and ignition systems are done away
with and in their place is a single component - the Fuel Injection Pump - which
performs the function of both.
Unremitting care and attention at the
factory have resulted in a Westerbeke
engine capable of many thousands of hours
of dependable service. What the manufacturer cannot control, however, is the
treatment it receives in service. This
part rests with you!
ORDERING PARTS
Whenever replacement parts are needed,
always include the complete part description and part number (see separate Parts
List furnished, if not part of this publication). Be sure to include the
engine's model and serial number. Also
be sure to insist upon Westerbeke factory
packaged parts, because "will fit" parts
are frequently not made to the same
specifications as original equipment.
GENERATOR SETS
Westerbeke diesels are used for both
the propulsion of boats and for generating
electrical power. For generator set applications, all details of this Manual
apply, except in regard to certain portions of the Installation, Operation and
Maintenance sections. Additional information is provided in the section titled
Generator Sets, Section T.
6
INSTALLATION
7
FOREWORD
Since the boats in which these engines are used are many and varied,
details of engine installation are equally so. It is not the purpose of
this section to advise boatyards and engine installers on the generally
well understood and well developed procedures for installation of engines. However, the following outline of general procedure is included
because it is valuable in explaining the functions of each component,
the reasons why, the precautions to be watched and the relationship of
the installation to the operation of the engine. There are details of
the installation which should have a periodic check and of which the
operator should have a thorough understanding to insure good operating
conditions for the engine and correct procedure for its servicing.
INSPECTION OF EQUIPMENT
The engine is shipped from the factory
mounted securely and properly crated. Accessory equipment is shipped in a separate
small box, usually packed with the engine
crate.
Before accepting shipment from the
transportation company, the crate should
be opened and an inspection made for concealed damage. If either visible or concealed damage is noted, you should require
the delivering agent to sign "Received in
damaged condition". Also check contents
of the shipment against the packing list
and make sure note is made of any discrepancies. This is your protection against
loss or damage. Claims for loss or damage
must be made to the carrier, not to J. H.
Westerbeke Corporation.
RIGGING AND LIFTING
The engine is fitted with lifting rings.
Rope or chain slings should be attached to the rings and the engine lifted
by means of tackle attached to this sling.
The lifting rings have been designed to
carry the full weight of the engine,
therefore auxiliary slings are not required or desired.
CAUTION: Slings must not be so short as
to place the engine lifting eyes in significant sheer stress. Strain on the
engine lifting eyes must not be in excess
of 100 from the vertical. A spacer bar
must be placed between the two lifting
eyes, if supported by valve cover studs.
The general rule in moving engines is
to see that all equipment used is amply
strong and firmly fixed in place. Move the
engine a little at a time and see that it
is firmly supported. Eliminate possibility of accidents by avoiding haste. Do
not lift from the propeller coupling, or
pry against this with crowbar, as you may
distort the coupling.
In some cases it may be necessary to
lift the engine in other than the regular
horizontal position. It may be that the
engine must be lowered endwise through a
small hatchway which cannot be made larger.
If the opening is extremely restricted it
is possible to reduce, to some extent, the
outside clearances such as generator,
cooling piping, water tank, filters,
mounting lugs, etc. This accessory equipment should be removed by a competent
mechanic and special care should be taken
to avoid damage to any exposed parts and
to avoid dirt entering openings. The parts
which have been removed should be returned
to position as soon as the restriction has
been passed.
In case it is necessary to hoist the
engine either front end upwards or reverse
gear end upwards, the attachment of slings
must be done very carefully to avoid the
possibility of damage to the parts on
which the weight may bear. It is best if
special rigging work be done by someone
experienced and competent in the handling
of heavy machinery.
ENGINE BOLTS
It is recommended that bronze hanger
bolts of appropriate size be used through
the engine flexible mounts. Lag screws
are less preferred because their hold on
the wood is weakened every time they are
moved, whereas the lag bolt stays in position and the nut on top is used to tighten the engine down or is removed to permit
the engine to be lifted. The bolt itself
stays in position at all times, as a stud,
and the bond between the bolt and the wood
is not weakened by its removal.
8
FOUNDATION FOR ENGINE
A good engine bed contributes much
toward the satisfactory operation of the
engine. The engine bed must be of rigid
construction and neither deflect nor twist
when subjected to the engine weight or the
position the boat may have to take under
the effects of rough seas. The bed must
keep the engine within one or two thousandths of an inch of this position at all
times. It has to withstand the forward
push of the propeller which is applied to
the propeller shaft, to the thrust washer
bearing in the engine and finally to the
engine bolts and engine bed.
In fiberglas hulls, we recommend that
similar wooden stringers as in wooden
hulls be formed and fitted, then glassed
to the hull securely. This allows hanger
bolts to be installed firmly in wood, thus
reducing noise and transmitted vibration.
The temptation to install the engine on
a pair of fiberglas "angle irons" should
be resisted. Such construction will allow
engine vibrations to pass through to the
hull. Flexible mounts require a firm
foundation against which to react if they
are to do their job. When possible, follow
bed design "A" and avoid bed design "B".
GOOD
A
PROPELLER COUPLING
Each Westerbeke Diesel engine is regularly fitted with a suitable coupling for
connecting the propeller shaft to the
engine.
The coupling must not only transmit the
power of the engine to turn the shaft, but
must also transmit the thrust either ahead
or astern from the shaft to the thrust
bearing which is built into the reduction
gear housing of the engine. This coupling
is very carefully machined for accurate
fit.
For all engine models, a propeller halfcoupling, bored to shaft size for the
specific order, is supplied. The coupling
either has a keyway with set screws or is
of the clamping type.
The forward end of the propeller shaft
has a long straight keyway. Any burrs
should be removed from the shaft end. The
coupling should be a light drive fit on
the shaft and the shaft should not have to
be scraped down or filed in order to get a
fit.
It is important that the key be
properly fitted both to the shaft and the
coupling. The key should fit the side of
the keyway very closely, but should not
touch the top of the keyway in the hub of
the coupling.
If it seems difficult to drive the
coupling over the shaft, the coupling can
be expanded by heating in a pail of boiling water. The face of the propeller
coupling must be exactly perpendicular to
the centerline or axis of the propeller
shaft.
PROPELLER
The type and size of propeller varies
with the gear ratio and must be selected
to fit the application based upon boat
tests. To utilize the full power of the
engine, and to achieve ideal loading conditions, it is desirable to use a propeller which will permit the engine to reach
its full rated speed at full throttle
under normal load.
ALIGNMENT OF ENGINE
The engine must be properly and exactly
aligned with the propeller shaft. No
matter what material is used to build a
boat it will be found to be flexible to
some extent and the boat hull will change
its shape to a greater extent than is
usually realized when it is launched and
operated in the water. It is therefore
very important to check the engine align-
9
ment at frequent intervals and to correct
any errors when they may appear.
Misalignment between the engine and the
propeller shaft is the cause of troubles
which are blamed often on other causes.
It will create excessive bearing wear,
rapid shaft wear and will, in many cases,
reduce the life of the hull by loosening
the hull fastenings. A bent propeller
shaft will have exactly the same effect
and it is therefore necessary that the
propeller shaft itself be perfectly
straight.
One particularly annoying result of misalignment may be leakage of transmission
oil through the rear oil seal. Check to
make sure that alignment is within the
limits prescribed.
The engine should be moved around on
the bed and supported on the screw-jacks
or shims until the two halves of the couplings can be brought together without using
force and so that the flanges meet evenly
all around. It is best not to drill the
foundation for the foundation bolts until
the approximate alignment has been accurately determined.
Never attempt a final alignment with
the boat on land. The boat should be in
the water and have had an opportunity to
assume its final water form. It is best
to do the alignment with the fuel and
water tank about half full and all the
usual equipment on board and after the
main mast has been stepped and final rigging has been accomplished.
Take plenty of time in making this
alignment and do not be satisfied with
anything less than perfect results.
The alignment is correct when the shaft
can be slipped backwards and forward into
the counterbore very easily and when a
feeler gauge indicates that the flanges
come exactly together at all points. The
two halves of the propeller coupling
should be parallel within 0.002 inches (A).
I
\
In making the final check for alignment,
the engine half coupling should be held in
one position and the alignment with the
propeller coupling tested with the propeller
coupling in each of four positions, rotated
90 0 between each position. This test will
also check whether the propeller half coupling is in exact alignment on its shaft.
Then, keeping the propeller coupling in one
position the alignment should be checked
rotating the engine half coupling to full
position each 90 0 from the next one.
The engine alignment should be rechecked
after the boat has been in service for one
to three weeks and, if necessary, the
alignment remade. It will usually be
found that the engine is no longer in
alignment. This in not because the work
was improperly done at first, but because
the boat has taken some time to take its
final shape and the engine bed and engine
stringers have probably absorbed some
moisture. It may even be necessary to realign at a further period.
The coupling should always be opened up
and the bolts removed whenever the boat is
hauled out or moved from the land to the
water, and during storage in a cradle.
The flexibility of the boat often puts a
very severe strain on the shaft or the
coupling or both when it is being moved.
In some cases the shaft has actually been
bent by these strains. This does not apply
to small boats that are hauled out of the
water when not in use, unless they are
dry for a considerable time.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
Exhaust line installations vary considerably and each must be designed for the
particular job. The general requirements
are to provide an outlet line with a minimum of restrictions and arranged so that
sea water, rain water, or condensation
cannot get back into the engine. There
should be a considerable fall in the line
between the exhaust manifold flange and
the discharge end. This slope in the pipe
makes it difficult for water to be driven
in very far by a wave; and a steep drop
followed by a long slope is better than a
straight gradual slope. Avoid any depression or trough to the line which would
fill with water and obstruct the flow of
exhaust gas. Also avoid any sharp bends.
Brass or copper is not acceptable for
wet exhaust systems, as the combination of
salt water and diesel exhaust gas will
10
cause rapid deterioration. Galvanized
iron fittings and galvanized iron pipe is
recommended for the exhaust line. The exhaust line must be at least as large as
the engine exhaust manifold flange and be
increased in size if there is an especially long run and/or many elbows. It should
be increased by 1/2" in LD. for every 10
feet beyond the first 10 feet.
support for the rubber hose to prevent
sagging, bending, and formation of water
pockets.
Always arrange that water discharge
into the rubber hose section is behind a
riser or sufficiently below the exhaust
flange so that water cannot possibly flow
back into the engine. Also make sure that
entering sea water cannot spray directly
against the inside of the exhaust piping.
Otherwise excessive erosion will occur.
MEASURING EXHAUST GAS BACK PRESSURE
Back pressure must be measured on a
straight section of the exhaust line and
as near as possible to the engine exhaust
manifold. The engine should be run at
maximum load during the measurement period.
Set-up should be as shown below.
1. For normally asperated engines:
Pressure Test Mercury Test Water Column
1-1/2" Max PSI 3" Mercury
39"
EXHAUST SYSTEM WITH WATER JACKETED
STANDPIPE
To insure vibration doesn't transmit to
hull, use a flexible section preferably of
stainless steel, no less than 12" overall,
threaded at each end and installed as
close to the engine as possible. This
flexible section should be installed with
no bends and covered with insulating material. The exhaust pipe should be properly
supported by brackets to eliminate any
strain on the manifold flange studs. Many
installations use flexible rubber exhaust
hose for the water cooled section of the
exhaust line because of the ease of installation and flexibility. Provide adequate
WATER LIFT EXHAUST SYSTEM WITH
"HYDRO-HUSH" MUFFLER
2. For turbo-charged engines:
Pressure Test Mercury Test Water Column
19-1/2"
0.75 Max PSI
1-1/2" Mercury
Checking The Back Pressure
1. Exhaust pipe flange
2. Exhaust line
3. Transparent plastic hose, partly filled
with water. Measurement "A" may not
exceed 39" for normally asperated
engines and 19.5" for turbo-charged
engines.
WATER CONNECTIONS
Seacocks and strainers should be of the
full flow type at least one size greater
than the inlet thread of the sea water
pump. The strainer should be of the type
which may be withdrawn for cleaning while
the vessel is at sea.
Water lines can be copper tubing or
wire-wound, reinforced rubber hose. In
11
any case, use a section of flexible hose
that will not collapse under suction, between the hull inlet and engine and between
the outlet and the exhaust system. This
takes up vibration and permits the engine
to be moved slightly when it's being realigned. Do not use street elbows in
suction piping. All pipe and fittings
should be of bronze. Use sealing compound
at all connections to prevent air leaks.
The neoprene impeller in the sea (raw)
water pump should never be run dry.
FUEL TANK AND FILTERS
Fuel tanks may be of fiberglass, monel,
aluminum, plain steel or terne plate. If
made of fiberglass, be certain that the
interior is gel coated to prevent fibers
from contaminating the fuel system.
Copper or galvanized fuel tanks should not
be used. It is not necessary to mount the
tank above the engine level as the fuel lift
pump provided will raise the fuel from the
tank. The amount of lift should be kept
minimum (6 feet being maximum). If a tank
is already installed above engine level it
can be utilized in this position. Great
care should be taken to ensure that the fuel
system is correctly installed so that airlocks are eliminated and precautions taken
against dirt and water entering the fuel.
A primary fuel filter of the water collecting type should be installed between
the fuel tank and the fuel lift pump. A
recommended type is available from the
list of accessories. The secondary fuel
filter is fitted on the engine between the
fuel lift pump and the injection pump and
has a replaceable element.
As the fuel lift pump has a capacity in
excess of that required by the injection
pump, the overflow is piped to the fuel
tank and should be connected to the top of
the tank or as near the top as possible.
To insure satisfactory operation, a
diesel engine must have a dependable supply of clean diesel fuel. For this reason,
cleanliness and care are especially important at the time when the fuel tank is
installed, because dirt left anywhere in
the fuel lines or tank will certainly
cause fouling of the injector nozzles when
the engine is started for the first time.
FUEL PIPING
We recommended copper tubing together
with suitable fittings, both for the supply
line and the return line. Run the tubing
in the longest pieces obtainable to avoid
the use of unnecessary fittings and connectors. The shut off valve in the line
between the fuel tank and engine should be
of the fuel oil type, and it is important
that all joints be free of pressure leaks.
Keep fuel lines as far as possible from
exhaust pipe for minimum temperature, to
eliminate "vapor locks".
The fuel piping leading from the tank
to the engine compartment should always be
securely anchored to prevent chafing.
Usually the copper tubing is secured by
means of copper straps.
The final connection to the engine
should be through flexible rubber hoses.
ELECTRIC PANEL
The Westerbeke all-electric panel utilizes an electronic tachometer with a
built-in hour meter. Tachometer cables
are no longer required, except for the
Skipper mechanical panel. Mounted on the
panel are an ammeter, water temperature
gauge and oil pressure gage. Each instrument is lighted. The all-electric panel
is isolated from ground and may be mounted
where visible. It is normally pre-wired.
WESTERBEKE ALL-ELECTRIC PANEL
SKIPPER MECHANICAL TACH PANEL
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT
Most Westerbeke engines are supplied
pre-wired and with plug-in connectors.
Never make or break connections while the
engine is running. Carefully follow all
instructions on the wiring diagram sup-
12
plied, especially those relating to fuse/
cicuit breaker requirements.
Starter batteries should be located as
close to the engine as possible to avoid
voltage drop through long leads. It is
bad practice to use the starter batteries
for other services unless they require low
amperage or are intermittent'. In cases
where there are substantial loads (from
lights, refrigerators, radios, depth
sounders, etc.) it is essential to have a
complete, separate system and to provide
charging current for this by means of a
second alternator or "alternator output
split ter" .
Starter batteries must be of a type
which permits a high rate of discharge
(Diesel starting).
Carefully follow the recommended wire
sizes shown in the wiring diagrams. Plan
installation so the battery is close to
engine and use the following cable sizes:
#1 #1/0
#2/0
#3/0
for distances up to 8
- for distances up to
- for distances up to
- for distances up to
feet
10 feet
13 feet
16 feet
MECHANICAL CONTROLS
The recommended practice is to have the
stop-run lever loaded to the run position
and controlled by a sheathed cable to a
push-pull knob at the pilot station. The
throttle lever should be connected to a
Morse type lever at the pilot station by
a sheathed cable.
The transmission control lever may be
connected to the pilot station by a flexible, sheathed cable and controlled by a
Morse type lever. The single-lever type
gives clutch and throttle control with
full throttle range in neutral position.
The two-lever type provides clutch control
with one lever and throttle control with
the other.
Any bends in the control cables should
be gradual. End sections at engine and
transmission must be securely mounted.
After linkages are completed, check the
installation for full travel, making sure
that, when the transmission control lever
at the pilot station is in forward,
neutral and reverse, the control lever on
the transmission is on the respective
detent. Check the throttle control lever
and the stop-run lever on the fuel injection pump for full travel.
OPERATION
PREPARATION FOR FIRST START
The engine is shipped "dry" ... with lubricating oil drained from the crankcase
and transmission. Therefore, be sure to
follow these recommended procedures carefully before starting the engine for the
first time.
1. Remove oil filler cap and fill oil sump
with heavy duty, diesel lubricating oil
to the highest mark on the dipstick.
See table under Maintenance for an approved lubricating oil. Do not overfill. Select an approved grade from
the listing and continue to use it.
2. If the Reverse Gear has a manual clutch,
fill to the highest mark on the dipstick with S.A.E. 30 lubricating oil.
You may use the same oil as in the engine.
If Reverse Gear is hydraulic, fill to
the highest mark on the dipstick with
type A Hydraulic fluid. Do not overfill.
3. Fill fresh water cooling system only
after opening all pet-cocks and plugs
until all entrapped air is expelled.
On fresh water cooled engines, fill the
fresh water cooling system with fresh
clean water and/or anti-freeze solution
(see Cold Weather precautions in Maintenance Section).
Use a 50-50 anti-freeze solution if cold
weather is to be experienced.
Fill surge tank to within one inch of
the top. Check this level after engine
has run for a few minutes. If trapped
air is released, the water level may
have dropped. If so, refill tank to
within one inch of top and replace
filler cap.
4. Ensure battery water level is at least
3/8" above the battery plates and battery is fully charged so that it is
capable of the extra effort that may be
required on the first start.
5. Fill fuel tank with clean Diesel fuel
oil; No. 2 diesel fuel oil is recommended. The use of No. 1 is permissible
but No. 2 is preferred because of its
higher lubricant content.
NOTE: If there is no filte~ in the filler
of the fuel tank, the recommended procedure is to pour the fuel through a funnel
of 200 mesh wire screen.
6. Fill grease cup on water pump, if present, with a good grade of water pump
grease.
13
BLEEDING THE SYSTEM
The fuel injection system of a compression ignition engine depends upon very
high fuel pressure during the injection
stroke to function correctly. Relatively
tiny movements .of the pumping plungers produce this pressure and if any air is present inside the high pressure line, then
this air acts as a cushion and prevents the
correct pressure, and therefore fuel injection, from being achieved.
In consequence it is essential that all
air is bled from the system whenever any
part of the system has been opened for
repair or servlclng. Running out of fuel
is a misfortune that also necessitates
complete bleeding of the system before the
engine can be restarted.
The following instructions for fuel
system bleeding apply to typical systems
using in-line DPA pumps (shown in Figs.l
and 2).
Before priming and bleeding, insure
that the outside of the bleed screws and
surrounding area is thoroughly clean to
prevent dirt and foreign matter entering
the system.
DPA DISTRIBUTOR PUMPS The following priming and venting sequence is applicable to
both mechanically and hydraulically governed DPA pumps. The only difference is the
physical location on the pump of the governor bleed screw "D" and this is indicated in the appropriate illustration,
Fig. 1
14
Fig. 1 for mechanically governed and Fig.
2 for hydraulically governed pumps.
bleeding proceeds as follows.
Leave the governor bleed screw "D"
slackened. Next slacken any two injector
pipe line connections at the injector end.
Set the throttle to the fully open position and turn the engine until fuel free
from air flows from the unions. Then retighten the loosened injector pipe unions.
Start the engine and run it at fast
idling speed until air-free fuel exudes
from the governor bleed screw "D". Tighten
this screw and stop the engine.
Governing may be erratic during this
procedure, therefore stand by to stop the
engine should any excessive engine speed
'"''b. _ 0\
develop.
~ ~~.'
RECOMMENDED SPARES Owners are often in
Jf'
"Q.\)
doubt as to the amount of fuel injection
Fig. 2
equipment spares to carry. A great deal
depends upon the use of the craft and its
location. General coastal use in wellIf the fuel system is fitted with a
populated
areas is one thing, but voyaging
fuel feed pump, slacken both the filter
up the Amazon delta, for example, would be
bleed screw "A" and the injection pump
quite different and would require a comfuel inlet union "B", and operate the hand
prehensive spares kit.
priming lever of the feed pump until fuel
Generally speaking, the average boat
free from air issues from both the vents.
owner is within relatively easy reach of
Tighten both the vent connections. In a
service centers and requires spares only as
gravity fed fuel system turn on the fuel
insurance against breakdown and for general
and carry out the same procedure with the
servicing within the scope of the owner or
bleed screw and fuel inlet.
crew.
Slacken the vent valve fitted to one of
A suitable kit for such a purpose would
the two hydraulic head locking screws "c"
consist
of a replacement filter element and
and the bleed screw "D" on the governor
a
set
of
sealing and "0" rings for each
housing. Operate the hand priming lever of
filter. Spare bleed screws for pumps and
the feed pump, until fuel free from air
filters are also required, for screws are
bubbles issues from the vent "c" and then
easily lost or damaged in a boat when bleedtighten this bleed screw.
ing the system. A full set of high pressure
NOTE: The space within the governor housinjection pipes should also be carried, for
ing (vented by screw "D") is normally
a fractured or cracked pipe could occur at
filled, and its contents lubricated,
any time and no patching is possible with
by fuel oil back-leaked from the pump
these pipes. The correct set of pipes can
plungers, the pump rotor and the adbe
obtained from the engine manufacturer's
vance device if fitted. This is the
agent
or service center and will be supplied
normal way in which this space becomes
already
bent to shape and cleaned internfilled with oil and this can naturally
ally
with
both ends plugged against the
take a long time at feed pump pressures.
entry
of
dirt.
They will be supplied packHowever, if the reason that the pump is
ed as a set and it is important to keep
being vented is because a pipe line or inthem this way until required for use. It
jector or filter element has been changed
is vitally important that the internal suror serviced or the system has run out of
face of the pipe is kept scrupulously
fuel, then the governor housing will still
clean until fitted to the engine.
be filled with fuel oil and bleeding by
A spare set of fuel injectors of the
means of the hand priming lever of the
right
type and correctly set for the parfeed pump will suffice. In this event,
ticular
engine together with a set of the
close the governor bleed screw "D" as soon
correct
seating washers will not only enas fuel free from air issues from the vent.
able
defective
injectors to be changed
If, however, a new pump has been fitted
when
required
but
will also permit engine
to the system, then its governor housing
use
while
one
set
is away being serviced.
will most likely be empty of fuel oil and
--------o(t..'
'~J).
.;.,. :----..
15
Do be careful to check with the engine
parts list regarding whether the engine
requires injector seating washers or not.
Additionally, spare banjo bolts and
washers for back leak pipes and low pressure pipes are handy things to have when a
joint starts leaking. Remember no equipment ever breaks down when it is stationary in port.
Breakdowns and trouble occur
when the equipment is working - and that
means at sea!
Do not forget the tools.
Always carry
the correct spanners for the job - hammers
and adjustable wrenches may be all right
in some locations, but please, not around
your fuel injection equipment on your
craft.
HINTS AND TIPS It is essential to stress
the need for absolute cleanliness of the
fuel at all times.
This requirement also
extends to methods of operating and servicing the equipment and to precautions about
refueling.
A useful hint when changing filter elements is to obtain a polythene bag large
enough and strong enough to hold the filter
element and put this around the element and
filter head before unscrewing the center
bolt. Undo the center bolt and allow element, oil and base all to go into the bag.
Then empty the bag into a bowl or container
large enough for the contents to be separated and the base and sealing rings recovered if required.
Granulated pieces of substance familiar
to all cat owners who live in apartments
and sold for use in cat litter boxes is
ideal for soaking up diesel fuel spilled
when venting or removing pipe lines. Put
the material down before working on the
system.
Barrier creams of the oil-defying kind
are useful and make life much easier when
removing the grime from hands. Put on the
cream before the job is tackled and then
dirt, grease and cream are removed together
when the job is completed.
In the majority of fueling installations
fuel will be supplied through a hose always wipe the pump nozzle with a clean
non-fluffy piece of cloth before use.
None
of those grubby old swabs, please - they
will do far more harm than good.
If you
spill any fuel on tank, deck or fittings,
wipe it off right away. Diesel fuel oil
does not evaporate as does gasoline, and
if left, will gather dirt and grit, will
track everywhere and keep on smelling.
Be
careful where you put down the fuel tank
cap when refueling - see that it doesn't
pick up dirt or grit - this is how quite
a lot of dirt gets into the tank.
Avoid dubious sources of fuel.
Job
lots of unknown origin are not always the
bargain they appear to be and fuel injection equipment is expensive to renew when
damaged.
WHEN ENGINE STARTS
1. Check Oil Pressure immediately. Normal
oil pressure is approximately 50 psi at
operating speeds, 15 psi when idling.
(Extremely hot engine.)
2. Check Sea Water Flow.
Look for water
at exhaust outlet. Do this without
delay.
3. Recheck Crankcase Oil. After the engine has run for 3 or 4 minutes, subsequent to an oil change or new installation, stop the engine and check the
crankcase oil level. This is important as it may be necessary to add oil
to compensate for the oil that is required to fill the engine's internal
oil passages and oil filter.
Add oil
as necessary.
Check oil level each day
of operatjon.
4. Recheck Transmission Oil Level.
(This
applies only subsequent to an oil change
or a new installation.) In such a case,
stop the engine after running for several minutes at 800 rpm with one shift
into forward and one into reverse, then
add oil as necessary.
Check oil level
each day of operation.
5. Recheck Expansion Tank Water Level, if
engine is fresh water cooled.
(This
applies after cooling system has been
drained or filled for the first time.)
Stop engine after it has reached operating temperature of l7s o F and add
water to within one inch of top of tank.
WARNING:
The system is pressurized when
overheated and the pressure must be released gradually if the filler cap is to
be removed.
It is advisable to protect
the hands against escaping steam and turn
the cap slowly counter-clockwise until the
resistance of the safety stops is felt.
Leave the cap in this position until all
pressure is released. Press the cap downwards against the spring to clear the
safety stops, and continue turning until
it can be lifted off.
6. Warm-up Instructions. As soon as possible, get the boat underwa.y but at reduced speed, until water temp. gauge
indicates l30-lS0 0 F.
It necessary, en-
16
gine can be warmed up with the clutch
in neutral at 1000 rpm. Warming up
with clutch in neutral takes longer and
tends to overheat the transmission, if
partial engagement occurs, which can be
detected by propeller shaft rotation.
7. Reverse Operation. Always reduce engine to idle speed when shifting gears.
However, when the transmission is engaged, it will carry full engine load.
NOTE: The SAO trans~ission requires that,
when backing down, the shift lever must be
held in the reverse position, since it has
no positive overcenter locking mechanism.
STOPPING ENGINE
1. Position shift lever in neutral.
2. Move throttle lever to idle position.
3. Pull fuel push-pull STOP control out.
(The stop control functions by cutting
off the fuel from the fuel injection
pump.)
NOTE: Idle engine for a few minutes to
dissipate heat gradually before shutdown.
OPERATING PRECAUTIONS
1. Never run engine for extended periods
when excessive overheating occurs as
extensive internal damage can be cau8~d.
2. DO NOT put cold water in an overheated
engine. It can crack cylinder head,
block, or manifold.
3. Keep intake silencer free from lint,
etc.
4. Do not run engine at high RPM without
clutch engaged.
5. Never Race a Cold Engine as internal
damage can occur due to inadequate oil
circulation.
6. Keep the engine and accessories clean.
7. Keep the fuel clean. Handle it with
extreme care because water and dirt in
fuel cause more trouble and service in8. Do not allow fuel to run low, because
fuel intake may be uncovered long
enough to allow air to enter the
system, resulting in lost time required for priming.
9. Do not be alarmed if temperature gauges
show a high reading following a sudden
stop after engine has been operating at
full load. This is caused by the
release of residual heat from the heavy
metal masses near the combustion
chamber. Prevention for this is to run
engine at idle for a short period
before stopping it. High temperature
reading after a stop does not necessarily signal alarm against restarting.
If there is no functional difficulty,
temperatures will quickly return to
normal when engine is operating.
17
TEN MUST RULES
IMPORTANT
IMPORTANT
IMPORTANT
... for your safety and your engine's dependability.
ALWAYS 1. Keep this Manual handy and read it whenever in doubt.
2. Use only filtered fuel oil and check lube oil level daily.
3. Check cooling water temperature frequently to make sure it is 1900
or less.
4. Close all drain cocks a~d refill with water before starting out.
5. Investigate any oil leaks immediately.
NEVER 6.
7.
8.
9.
Race the engine in neutral.
Run the engine unless the gauge shows proper oil pressure.
Break the fuel pump seals.
Use cotton waste or fluffy cloth for cleaning or store fuel in a
galvanized container.
10. Subject the engine to prolonged overloading or continue to run it
if black smoke comes from the exhaust.
18
YOUR NOTES
19
MAINTENANCE
PERIODIC ATTENTION:
After you have taken delivery of your
engine, it is important that you make the
following checks right after the first
fifty hours of its operation:
FIFTY HOUR CHECKOUT (INITIAL)
Do the following:
1. Retorque the cylinder head bolts.
2. Retorque the rocker bracket nuts and
adjust valve rocker clearance.
3. Check and adjust, if necessary, the
forward drum assembly and the reverse
band on manual SAO and SA-l transmissions.
4. Change engine lubricating oil and oil
filter.
5. Check for fuel and lubricating oil
leaks. Correct if necessary.
6. Check cooling system for leaks and inspect water level.
7. Check for loose fittings, clamps,
connections, nuts, bolts, vee belt
tensions etc. Pay particular attention to loose engine mount fittings.
These could cause mis-alignment.
DAILY CHECKOUT
Do the following:
1. Check sea water strainer, if one has
been installed.
2. Check water level in cooling system.
3. Check lubricating oil level in sump.
Fill to highest mark on dipstick.
4. Turn down grease cup on water pump,
if used, one full turn.
5. Check lubricating oil level in transmission. Fill to highest mark on
dipstick.
FIGURE 1
SEASONAL CHECK-OUT (MORE OFTEN IF POSSIBLE)
Do the following:
1. Check generator or alternator "V"
belt for tension.
2. Check water level in battery.
3. Change oil in sump. Oil may be
sucked out of sump by attaching a
suction hose (3/8" ID) over the outside of the oil sump pipe, located
aft of the dipstick. Figure 1.
See Note, next page.
4. Replace lubricating oil filter. Fig. 2.
See Note, next page.
5. Fill sump with approximately 4.5 US
quarts of diesel lubricating oil to
high mark on dipstick. Do not over
fill. See Note next page.
FIGURE 2
20
CAUTION: The use of different brands of
lubricating oils during oil changes has
been known to cause extensive oil sludging and may in many instances cause complete oil starvation.
6. Start engine and run for 3 or 4
minutes. Stop engine and check oil
filter gasket for leaks. Check oil
sump level. This is important as it
may be necessary to add oil to compensate for the oil that is required
to fill the engine's internal oil
passages and oil filter. Add oil as
necessary. Change oil in transmission.
Use SAE 30, High Detergent Lubricating
Oil, Service DG, DM, or DS. Do not
overfill. See note below.
3. Fill fresh water cooling system with
antifreeze of a reputable make.
(Refer
to Cold Weather Precautions.)
4. Start engine. When temperature gauge
indicates l75 0 F, shut engine down and
drain lubricating oil. Remove and replace filter. Fill sump with High Detergent Lubricating Oil.
5. Remove air filter. Carefully seal air
intake opening with waterproofed adhesive tape or some other suitable medium.
6. Seal the exhaust outlet at the most accessible location as close to the engine as possible.
7. Remove injectors and spray oil into
cylinders.
8. Replace injectors with new sealing
washer under each injector. Turn engine
slowly over compression.
IMPORTANT NOTE:
9.
Top
off fuel tank completely so that no
IT IS MANDATORY THAT THE CHECKS 3, 4, 5
air space remains, thereby preventing
AND 6 BE ATTENDED TO WHEN TOTAL OPERATING
water formation by condensation.
TIME REACHES 150 HOURS. IN SOME INSTANCES,
THIS TOTAL IS REACHED BEFORE END OF SEASON. 10. Leave fuel system full of fuel.
11. Change fuel filters before putting the
7. Clean Air Filter. The time period for
engine back in service.
replacing the air filter depends on
12. Wipe engine with a coat of oil or
operating conditions, therefore, under
grease.
extremely dirty conditions, the season- 13. Change oil in transmission.
al frequency should be increased. The 14. Disconnect battery and store in fully
correct time periods for replacing the
charged condition. Before storing the
filter will greatly assist in reducing
battery, the battery terminals and
bore wear, thereby extending the life
cable connectors should be treated to
of the engine.
prevent corrosion. Recharge battery
8. Check engine for loose bolts, nuts,
every 30 days.
15. Check alignment.
etc.
9. Check sea water pump for leaks.
10. Wash primary filter bowl and screen.
If filter bowl contains water or sediment, filter bowl and secondary oil
fuel filter need to be cleaned more
frequently.
11. Replace secondary fuel filter element.
12. Replace air filter.
END OF SEASON SERVICE
1. Drain fresh water cooling system by removing the surge tank pressure cap and
opening all water system petcocks.
2. Remove zinc rod (usually located in
heat exchanger) and see if it needs
replacing. The zinc rod will take
care of any electrolysis that may occur
between dissimilar metals. Insert new
zinc if necessary.
21
LUBRICATING OILS
Lubricating oils are available for Westerbeke Diesel engines which offer an improved
standard of performance to meet the requirements of modern operating conditions such as
sustained high speeds and temperatures.
These oils meet the requirements of the U. S. Ordnance Specification MIL-L-2l04B
(API Service CC). Any other oils which also conform to these specifications, but are
not listed here are, of course, also suitable.
COMPANY
BRAND
S.A.E. DESIGNATION
00/45 0 F
OVER 80 0 F
45 0 /80 0 F
lOW
20W/20
American Oil Co.
American Supermil Motor Oil
BP Canada Limited
BP Vanellus
BP Vanellus
Chevron Oil Co.
RPM DELO Multi-Service Oil
lOW
20W/20
30
Cities Service Oil Co.
CITGO Extra Range
lOW
20W/20
30
Continental Oil Co.
CONOCO TRACON OIL
lOW
20W/20
30
Gulf Oil Corporation
Gulflube Motor Oil X.H.D.
lOW
20W/20
30
Mobile Oil Company
Delvac 1200 Series
1220
1230
Shell Oil Company
Shell Rotella T Oil
lOW
20W/20
30
Sun Oil Company
Subfleet MIL-B
lOW
20W/20
30
Texaco, Inc.
Ursa Oil Extra Duty
lOW
20W/20
30
lOW
10W/30
1210
20W/20
10W/30
30
30
10W/30
22
YOUR NOTES
Al
ENGINE OVERHAUL
The following sections contain detailed
information relating to the proper
operating characteristics of the major
components and systems in the engine.
Included are disassembly, rework and
reassembly instructions for the
guidance of suitably equipped and
staffed marine engine service and
rebuilding facilities. The necessary
procedures should be undertaken ~
by such facilities.
Additional operating characteristics
are included in the Operation Section
of this manual.
Any replacements should be made only
with genuine Westerbeke parts.
II
DS/WPD3
technical data
3in (76.2mm)
Bore (nominal) .....
a
W7/WPD4
technical data
Bore (nominal) ...
2.25in (57.15mm)
3in (76.2mm)
2.625in (66.68mm)
Power and speed (B.S. continuous rating):
Power and speed (B.S. continuous rating):
2.4
3.0
3.5
4.2
5.0
5.5
bhp
bhp
bhp
bhp
bhp
bhp
at
at
at
at
at
at
1500
1800
2100
2500
3000
3600
rev/min
rev/min
rev/min
rev/min
rev/min
rev/min
2.8
3.3
4.0
5.0
6.0
6.5
bhp
bhp
bhp
bhp
bhp
bhp
at
at
at
at
at
at
1500
1800
2100
2500
3000
3600
rev/min
rev/min
rev/min
rev/min
rev/min
rev/min
18.5 in 3 (304 cm 3 )
15.9 in 3 (261 cm 3 )
Cubic capacity .....
Compression ratio ........
16.25 to 1
Compression ratio.
17 to 1
Lubricating oil pressure (min.)........
35 Ibflin' (2.46 kgflcm')
Lubricating oil pressure (min.).
35 Ibf/in' (2.46 kgflcm')
Fuel injection release pressure..
2350/2650 Ibf/in' (165.2/186.3 kgflcm')
Fuel injection release pressure..
235012650 Ibflin' (165.2/186.3 kgf/cm')
Cubic capacity......
. ...................... .
Fuel injection timing (by spill):
Fuel. injection timing (by spill):
Fixed speed
Fixed speed
Up to 2200 rev/min.
23° before TOC
Up to 2200 rev/min
26° before TOC
2201 to 2700 rev min
26° before TOC
2201 to 2700 rev/min
28° before TOC
2701 to 3300 rev min
29° before TOC
2701 to 3300 rev/min
32° before TOC
3301 to 3600 rev min
34° before TOC
3301 to 3600 rev/min
33° before TOC
28° before TOC
Variable speed
29° before TOC
Variable speed
Inlet valve opens.
13° before TOC
Inlet valve opens.
13° before TOC
Inlet valve closes ..
38° after BOC
Inlet valve closes..
38° after BOC
38° before BOC
Exhaust valve opens
38° before BOC
Exhaust valve opens. .....................
Exhaust valve closes
13° after TOC
Exhaust valve closes..
13° after TOC
Oil capacity.
3';' pints (1.9 litres)
Oil capacity
4% pints (2.7 litres)
Lubricating oil- Disregard weights on page 21 of ~eneral Section and use lOW
or multiviscosity 10/30w high detergent oil which meets API service CC, CE or
SE or meets Mil Spec 2104-B. Use non-detergent oil for the first 50 hours
on a generator set then use high detergent.
)::>
N
a
A3
DS/W7/WPD3/WPD4
technical data
Camshaft end float..
Crankshaft end float (new)
Crankshaft end float (not to exceed)
Crankpin ovality (not to exceed).
Cylinder bore wear (not to exceed)..
Piston ring gap (new)
Piston ring gap (not to exceed)..
Exhaust valve lift by decompressor (max.)
Bumping clearance ......... .........
Valve rocker clearance (cold) .....
Valve depth from cylinder head face (new)
Main bearing clearance (new)..
Large erd bearing clearance (new)..
Small end bush diameter (fitted)..
Reduction gear power take-off shaft end
floaL
0.003/0.01 Oin (0.08/0.25mm)
0.005/0.017in (0.13/0.43mm)
0.020in (0.51 mm)
0.0025in (0.063mm)
0.01 Oin (0.25mm)
0.012/0.01 7in (0.3010.43mm)
0.045in (1.14mm)
0.015in (0.38mm)
0.02210.026in (0.56/0.66mm)
0.004in (0.1 Omm)
0.039/0.057in (0.99/1.45mm)
0.0008/0.0029in (0.02010.077mm)
0.001 010.OO35in (0.025/0.090mm)
0.8753/0.8757in (22.233/22.243mm)
0.002/0.005in (0.05/0.13mm)
Cylinder reboring diameters:
Standard .............................. ..
3.000/3.001 in (76.20176.23mm)
Oversize:
0.020in.
0.030in.
0.040in ..
3.020/3.021 in (76.71176. 73mm)
3.03013.031 in (76.96/76.99mm)
3.04013.041 in (77.22177.24mm)
Crankshaft regrinding diameters:
Main journal and crankpin
Standard ...
1.6250/1.6245in (41.275/41.262mm)
Undersize:
0.010in.
0.020in
1.6150/1.6145in (41.021/41.008mm)
1.6050/16045in (40.767/40.754mm)
Lubricating oil pump:
Rotor end clearance (new) ...
Rotor end clearance (not to exceed) .
Rotor form clearance (new).
Rotor form clearance (not to exceed) ....
Shaft/bore clearance (new) ....
Shaft/bore clearance (not to exceed) ...
Rotor shaft diameter (new).
**
0.OO1/0.0025in (0.025/0.064mm)
0.OO5in (0.127mm)
0.002/0.005in (0051/0.1 27mm)
0.008in (0.203mm)
0.OO15/0.003in (0.038/0.076mm)
0.OO5in (0.127mm)
0.5918/0.5923in (15.032/15.044mm)
**
TORQUE SPANNER SETIINGS
Ibf ft
kgf m
Large end bolt..
25
3.46
Cylinder head nut
20
2.77
Injector stud nut ...
Injector stud nut
...AB1W
10
1.38
.................. AC1W
13
1.80
Flywheel nut .................. ..
155
21.43
Flywheel extension or gearwheel bolt..
27
3.73
Lubricating oil pump screw ....
10
1.38
Lubricating oil filter centre bolt
10
1.38
Fuel pump delivery union body ........................ .
15
2.07
Crankshaft and camshaft extension shaft screw
14
1.94
Crankshaft gearwheel retaining screw ...
27
3.73
Camshaft gearwheel retaining screw ..................................... .
27
3.73
Starting handle shaft retaining screw (Raised Hand Starting) ....
27
373
Mounting plate screw (4: 1 Hand Starting) ................................. ..
18
2.49
Sliding plate locating screw (4: 1 Hand Starting).
18
2.49
8
1.10
Sliding plate stop screw (4: 1 Hand Starting) (Flywheel end) .......
Gearwheel retaining clip screw (4:1 Hand Starting) (Flywheel
end)..
....... ........
12
1.66
Gearwheel retaining screw (4: 1 Hand Starting) (Gear end) ...
18
2.49
A4
OPERATION
10. PREPARATION FOR STARTING
DS Marine Engine
A.
Preparation Arter Installation
The engine is shipped "dry," that is, with lubricating oil drained from crankcase
and transmission. The following procedures should be checked methodically before
starting the engine for the first time.
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Remove the engine lubricating oil filler cap (push down and twist) and fill
sump with lubricating oil to high mark on dipstick,
approximately
3. 25 pints. Do not overfill. Select an approved grade (see Technical
Data "Approved Lubricants") and continue to use it.
Remove square head screw plug in top of transmission housing and fill
with lubricating oil to high level mark on dipstick. Use SAE 30 High
Detergent Diesel Lubricating Oil. Replace screw plug.
Fill fuel tank. No. 2 Diesel fuel oil is recommended. No. 1 fuel oil is
permissible but No.2 is preferred because of its higher lubricant quality.
Lift the decompression lever (A, Fig. B1) vertically and rotate the drive
pulley counter- clockwise approximately 12 revolutions to circulate the
lubricating oil. Replace decompression lever to its horizontal position.
(The decompression lever releases the pressure in the cylinder allowing
the engine to crank with no resistance. )
3371
B
c
···I~\.
e
"I"
..
.~
----
Fig.
ABC DE F G-
Bl.
Bleed and Prime Fuel System
Decompression lever
Stop/Run lever
Inlet Vent Screw
Vent Screw on injection pump
Priming Plunger
Overload stop lever (DS Marine Engine only)
Fuel line union nut
AS
(5)
(7)
Check that the starter battery is fully charged and that all electrical connections are properly made and all circuits in order.
Open cooling system inlet and outlet sea-cocks. There is no need to
prime the cooling system as the pump is self-priming.
Bleed and prime fuel system, refer to Par. B, below.
B.
To Bleed and Prime the Fuel System (Fig. B1)
(1)
Position shift lever in neutral.
Set throttle control lever to full speed position.
Move STOP/RUN lever (B) to RUN position.
Loosen inlet vent screw (C) on top of fuel filter, operate the hand priming
lever of the fuel lift pump, and when fuel oil free of air bubbles issues
from vent screw, tighten screw.
(6)
(2)
(3)
(4)
NOTE: If the cam on the camshaft driving the fuel lift pump is on maximum lift,
then it will not be possible to operate the priming lever of the fuel lift pump. If
such a condition arises proceed as follows:
(a)
(b)
(c)
(5)
(6)
(7)
Lift decompression lever (A) to vertical position.
Revolve drive shaft pulley by hand until the fuel lift pump priming
lever can be operated.
Position decompression lever (A) in horizontal position.
Loosen the outlet vent screw also on top of the fuel filter, operate the
priming lever as in step (4) above, and then tighten screw.
Loosen the vent screw (D) on injection pump, operate priming lever as in
step (4) above, and then tighten screw.
Loosen the fuel line union nut at the fuel injector (fuel line between fuel
injection pump and fuel injector). Operate the starter- generator and when
fuel oil free of air bubbles issues from union, tighten union nut.
NOTE: Do not crank engine for more than 20 seconds at a time, and leave at rest
2 minutes before attempting to crank engine again.
C.
To Start (Fig. B1)
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(8)
Position shift lever in neutral position.
Move throttle control lever to full speed position.
Position STOP /RUN control lever (B) to RUN position.
Push down and release the overload lever (F). (The overload lever supplies an excess of fuel oil to the injection pump for instant starting. )
Lift the decompression lever (A).
Operate the starter-generator control. As soon as engine starts to crank,
replace decompression lever in horizontal position. When engine fires,
release starter-generator control.
Immediately after engine has started, move throttle control lever back so
that engine will run at fast idling rpm.
Refer to paragraph 12 tt Procedure After Starting. !t
D.
To Stop
(1)
Move shift lever to neutral position.
(5)
(6)
(7)
NOTE: Let engine run a few minutes at idling speed before shutting off. This
permits the water circulation to dissipate excessive heat from the metal masses
gradually.
(2)
(3)
Move the STOP /R UN lever to the STOP position, and hold in this position
until engine shuts off.
Turn key switch to off position.
A6
WPD-3 Marine Generator
E.
Preparation After Installation
The Generator set is shipped "dry, II that is, with lubricating oil drained from
crankcas e.
The following procedures should be carried out, and checked
methodically before starting the generator set for the first time.
(1)
(2)
(3)
Remove the engine lubricating oil filler cap (push down and twist) and fill
sump with lubricating oil to high mark on dipstick approximately
3. 25 pints. Do not overfill. Select an approved grade listed and continue
to use it. (Refer to Technical Data, "Approved Lubricants. I~
Fill fuel tank. No.2 diesel fuel oil is recommended. No. 1 is permissible
but No. 2 is preferred because of its higher lubricant quality.
Lift the decompression lever (A, Fig. B2), that is, vertically, and rotate
the drive pulley counter-clockwise by hand approximately 12 revolutions
to circulate the lubricating oil. Replace decompression lever to its horizontal position. (The decompression lever releases the pressure in the
cylinder allowing the engine to crank with no resistance. )
3371
'CJ
:",
C
,
,
',I,i','"
,
,
I:'
l
I'
I'
Fig. B2
(4)
(5)
(8)
Ensure power switch is in OFF /REMOTE position.
Connect a fully charged 12 volt battery to (+) and (-) battery studs on side
of control box. IMPORTANT: Ensure correct polarity.
Ensure that all air inlet and outlet vents are unobstructed.
Open cooling system, inlet and outlet sea-cocks.
(The pump is selfpriming. )
Bleed and prime fuel system (refer to Par. F, below).
F.
Bleed Fuel System (Fig. B2)
(1)
Ensure power switch is in OFF/REMOTE position.
Move STOP /RUN lever (B) to RUN position.
Loosen inlet vent screw (C) on top of fuel filter, operate the hand priming
lever of the fuel lift pump, and when fuel oil free of air bubbles issues
from vent screw, tighten screw.
(6)
(7)
(2)
(3)
A7
NOTE: If the cam on the camshaft driving the fuel lift pump is on maximum lift,
then it will not be possible to operate the fuel lift pump hand primer. In this case,
proceed as follows:
(a)
(b)
(c)
(4)
(5)
(6)
G.
Lift decompression lever (A) to vertical position.
Revolve drive shaft pulley by hand until the fuel lift pump priming
lever' can be operated.
Position decompression lever (A) in horizontal position.
Loosen the outlet vent screw also on top of the fuel filter, operate the
priming lever as in step (3) above, and then tighten screw.
Loosen the vent screw (D) on injection pump, operate priming lever as in
step (3) above, and then tighten screw.
Loos en the fuel line union nut at the fuel injector (fuel line between fuel
injector pump and fuel injector). Turn START switch on control panel to
START which causes starter motor to start and may cause the engine to
fire up.
Read Section 10 below regarding time limits on energizing.
When fuel oil free of air bubbles issues from the loosened union, tighten
union nut.
To Start and Stop
NOTES:
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
Do not operate START switch for more than 20 seconds at a time, and
leave at least 10 seconds before attempting another start.
Start the plant and run without electrical load, checking for fuel oil ,
lubricating oil and coolant leaks. If any leakage, take immediate steps to
remedy it. Stop the plant after approximately 5 minutes, allow time for
oil to settle, then check lubricating oil level. Add oil as necessary to
high mark on dipstick.
If practical, allow the plant to warm up a short time before connecting a
heavy load. Keep the load within the nameplate rating. Continuous generator overloading may cause high operating temperatures that can damage
windings.
To stop generator set it is advisable to run on light load for a few minutes
before shutting off. This permits the water to circulate and dissipate
excessive heat from the metal masses gradually.
(a)
To Start Generator Set (with Electric START and Bowdoin STOP /
RUN Control Cable).
(1)
(2)
(3)
(b)
To Start Generator Set (with Electric START/STOP - OPTIONAL)
(1)
(2)
(c)
Push STOP/RUN control knob.
Switch STARTER switch to ON and hold till engine fires, then
release switch.
To Stop Generator Set, pull out STOP/RUN control knob. Turn
switch to OFF position.
Hold control switch on control panel to "START". When engine
fires release switch (it will return to center position).
To STOP GENERATOR SET - turn switch to OFF/REMOTE
To Start Generator Set (with Automatic Failure shutdown OPTIONAL).
(1)
Simultaneously throw control switch to START and OIL DEFEAT
(oil override) switch to right. (This can be done by squeezing
both switches with thumb and index finger of one hand. )
A8
NOTE: The function of the oil defeat switch is to bypass the flow of current around
the Normally Open low oil shutdown switch during starting until sufficient oil pressure is developed during cranking to close- the switch. If the switch is released
before sufficient pressure is developed the fuel start solenoid will automatically
return to the off position.
(2)
(3)
(4)
(d)
Release control switch when engine fires.
Release OIL DEFEAT switch when oil pressure builds up.
To Stop Generator Set - Turn switch to OFF /REMOTE position.
To Start Generator Set (from Remote Control Panel).
(1)
(2)
Place control switch on generator set to OFF /REMOTE.
Start generator set from remote control panel as in Par.
above.
(b)
NOTE: The generator set can be controlled ONLY from the Remote Control Panel
from this time on. If it is desired to control generator set from generator panel,
the control switch on the Remote Panel must first be placed in the OFF/REMOTE
position.
(3)
(e)
To Stop Generator Set - Turn switch to OFF /REMOTE position.
To Start Generator Set (from Remote Control Panel when Automatic
Failure Shutdown OPTION included. )
(1)
(2)
Place Control Switch on generator set to OFF / REMOTE.
From Remote Control Panel, follow same procedure as in Par
(c) above.
11. COLD STARTING
(a)
Below 55 0 F (13 0 C) and if the engine is cold, it is essential to prime the
engine for hand starting, and advisable if battery power is low when electric starting. Proceed as follows:
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(e)
Remove the priming plunger (E, Fig. Bl).
Fill the priming chamber with engine oil - NOT fuel.
Replace the priming plunger and press down.
It is advisable to keep a quantity of lubricating oil in a suitable container for this purpose.
Should the engine fire and then stop, prime again and release the overload
stop lever (F), if fitted, before attempting to start.
Below 32 0 F (OOC) and if the engine is cold, prime the engine twice.
If under cold conditions the engine does not run up to its rated speed after
starting, operate the priming plunger again while the engine is running.
To minimize cold starting difficulties, ensure that an SAE lOW viscosity
engine oil is used (see '~pproved Lubricants," Technical Data). It will
also help starting to use No. 1 Diesel fuel.
12. PROCEDURE AFTER STARTING
(a)
(b)
Check the oil pressure immediately after the engine has started. Under
no conditions must the engine be operated with too low oil pressure.
Minimum oil pressure approximately 70 psi at 3000 rpm.
Check sea-water flow at outlet thru-hull fitting. Do this without delay.
NOTE: On new installations or subsequent to an oil change, run engine briefly
then stop the engine and check the engine sump and transmission (if fitted) oil
levels. It is important that oil required to fill the internal passages and oil filter
is compensated for. Add lubricating oil as necessary. Check oil level every day
of operation.
A9
(c)
On DS Marine Engine, when operating the engine, make gear shifts ahead
and astern quickly and decisively. This is because jaw clutches are used
in the SSR transmission and quick engagement prevents the clashing of
teeth that will occur if you attempt easy engagement as you would with
friction clutches. This is also a reason for using the Morse MI simple
lever control, which automatically places throttle in idle position before
each gear shift.
NOTE: On DS engines, the transmission is in FORWARD when the shift lever is
moved (aft) toward the stern of the boat and in REVERSE when shift lever is moved
(forward) toward bow.
13. SPECIAL PRECAUTIONS
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(e)
DON'T stop the engine by means of the decompressor. This will lead to
damaged valve seats and cylinder head joints.
DON'T stop the engine by allowing the fuel tank to run dry. This will let
air into the fuel lines and make it necessary to bleed and prime the
system.
DON'T remove or alter the setting of the overload stop if fitted, or operate the overload stop lever when the engine is running. This will cause
overheating, excessive wear and possibly piston seizure.
DON'T forget to drain the cooling system before leaving the engine to
stand idle in cold weather.
If the engine is used infrequently, extended shutdown periods can result in
difficult starting. Run the engine a few minutes frequently to keep it well
lubricated.
14. POST DELIVERY CHECKOUT
After a customer has taken delivery of his DS engine or WPD-3 Generator, it is
advisable, in his own interest, that a general checkover of the engine be carried
out after the first 50 hours in service. The checkover should be comprised of the
following points:
(a)
Drain engine oil sump, change filter and fill sump with lubricating oil
(refer to Par. l8(c).
(b) Clean pre-filter (water trap and screen assembly) if installed.
(c) Replace engine mounted fuel filter (refer to Par. l8(b)).
(d) Check tightness o{ cylinder head nuts. The cylinder head must NOT be
tightened when the engine is hot. (Refer to Par. 38 (g), and (h), 1 and 2.)
(e) Check valve rockers clearance (refer to Par. 39).
(f) DS Marine Engine Only - Check slackness in starter-generator belt. The
slackness should not be more than 1/2 in. (13 mm).
(g) WPD- 3 Marine Generator Set - Examine connections in control box.
(h) Check all engine external bolts and nuts for tightness, especially motor
mounting nuts.
(i) Top up battery with distilled water.
(j) Bleed fuel system.
(k) Start engine and run for 5 minutes checking fuel pipes from tank to fuel
injector for leaks, especially around the filter gasket(s). Rectify any
leaks.
(1) Check and rectify any oil leak around lubricating oil filter gasket.
(m) Check and rectify any cooling system leaks.
(n) Wipe off all lube, fuel, and water drippings. Keep your engine clean so
that any leaks which develop are detected at once.
Hereafter the maintenance periods should be in accordance with maintenance
schedule.
Ala
18. FILTER MAINTENANCE
A.
Air Filter
The time period for cleaning the air filter depends on operating conditions, therefore, under dirty conditions, the time period of 250 hours recommended for cleaning should be decreased. The correct maintenance of the air filter will greatly
assist in reducing bore wear thereby extending the life of the engine.
To clean the air filter proceed as follows:
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
(6)
(7)
(8)
B.
Unscrew the thumb screw securing the air filter to its manifold and
remove filter.
Separate the two halves of the air filter and remove the paper element.
The element may be cleaned by blowing compressed air from the inside to
the outside. Do not attempt to clean the element by any other means.
A strong light directed into the inside of the element and viewed from the
outside will reveal any damage to the paper corrugations. If the element
is damaged or shows a large deposit of dirt, replace element.
Thoroughly wash out the two halves of the air filter in clean diesel fuel
oil.
Dip the thumb screw half of the air filter in a bath of clean engine oil and
allow to drain before refitting.
Position the paper element between the two halves of the air filter.
Secure air filter to its manifold with sealing ring between air filter and
its manifold.
Fuel Oil Filters
It is essential to use clean diesel fuel oil free from water or contamination.
Provided clean fuel oil is used, no trouble should be experienced with the fuel system.
(1)
The first filter should be a gauze trap in the filler of the fuel tank; this
must not be removed when fuel is being poured into the tank. It should be
taken out every 500 hours, cleaned, washed in fuel oil, and immediately
replaced. If there is no filter in the filler of the fuel tank the fuel should
be poured through a fine gauze strainer.
(2)
The second filter (optional) should be a pre-filter (water trap and screen
assembly) installed in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel lift
pump. This filter should be cleaned every 250 hours unless the condition
of the fuel warrants more regular attention.
The third final filter (Fig. Cl) is mounted to a bracket secured to the
engine front cover. It is an element type filter and must be replaced
every 250 hours.
To replace this filter element proceed as follows:
(3)
(a)
(b)
Unscrew the bolt on the bottom of the fuel filter bowl from filter head
(3) and withdraw the bowl with its attached bolt. Remove and discard
element. Do not remove bolt from bowl.
Remove the bowl "0 11 ring gasket (4) from its groove in the filter
head. Replace new 110 11 ring gasket.
NOTE: When replacing new 110 11 ring gasket, locate the new gasket in the groove
at four diametrically opposite points and seal it all around the groove. Do not fit
the gasket at one point and then work it around the groove as the rubber may
stretch, thus leaving a surplus which may cause an oil leak.
All
3319
3
4
5
~----~----
6
-----f
7
---f
@-1'2
©---~11
Fig. Cl.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
(c)
(d)
(e)
(f)
(g)
C.
Screw-vent
Washer
Head
"0" ring bowl
"0" ring element
Element
Fuel Filter Assembly
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
Bowl
Bolt - center
Seal bolt (lower)
Spring
Washer
Seal bolt (upper)
Remove the element "0" ring gasket (5) from filter head. Replace
new" 0" ring.
Thoroughly clean out filter bowl using clean diesel fuel oil.
Install filter bowl with new element to filter head and tighten bolt
Bleed and prime fuel system.
Start engine and check for leaks in the fuel line and around filter head
gasket.
Lubricating Oil Filter
all
The importance of clean lubricating oil cannot be stressed too highly and
references to engine oil should be taken to mean High Detergent, Diesel Lubricating Oil.
Refer to Technical Data for an approved lubricating oil.
If the time period specified (250 hours) for replacement of the filter and the use of
the same brand of oil is used during oil changes, a very long life can be obtained
from the engine.
To replace the filter element (Fig. C2) proceed as follows:
(1)
(2)
(3)
(4)
(5)
Run engine until engine oil is warm.
Drain sump by removing plug at bottom of sump or the oil may be sucked
out of the sump by inserting a suction hose in oil filler opening.
Unscrew the bolt (4) at the center of the filter bowl (3) and withdraw filter
bowl, element and 'btl ring. Discard element.
Thoroughly clean out filter bowl using clean diesel fuel oil.
Secure bowl with new element and "0" ring to crankcase. Torque bolt to
figure shown under Technical Data.
A12
(6)
(7 )
(8)
Fill sump with High Detergent lubrication oil. See ''Approved Lubricants"
General Data.
IMPORTANT. Start engine and run for 5 minutes and check for leaks
Shut down engine. Check oil sump level and add oil as necessary.
1
Fig. C2.
1.
2.
2
3
4
Lubricating Oil Filter
Gasket
Filter element
3.
4.
Bowl
"0" ring
31. DECARBONISING
A carbon deposit forms on piston dnd cylmo(>r head and the presence of an excessive carbon deposit is
usually indicated by a dirty exhaust and J falling off of power.
Decarbonising necessitates the removal of the cylinder head, followed by the removal of all carbon and
the grinding in of the valves. These operations are described in subsequent paragraphs.
32. TO REMOVE CYLINDER HEAD
(a)
Drain the cylinder and cylinder head.
(b)
Disconnect the water outlet pipe from the cyl'ndel head, and the water injection elbow.
(c)
If a heat exchange is fitted remove the inlet and outlet pipes.
(d)
Drain and remove fuel tank.
(e)
Remove the air cleaner, air inlet manifold and h",ather adaptor.
(f)
Disconnect the exhaust pipe at the first joint.
(g)
Disconnect the water inlet pipe from the cylind", head.
(h)
Disconnect the rocker box oil pipe.
(j)
Disconnect the fuel pipes and remove the fuel injector.
(k)
Remove the rocker cover.
(I)
Remove the rocker assembly and withdraw the push rods.
(m)
Remove the cylinder head nuts and lift off the cylir;der head.
33. TO REMOVE VALVES
(a)
Hold the valve on the seat and depress the valve spring cap ann remove the split collets. Valve and
spring cal ('OW be removed.
AI3
34. TO REMOVE CARBON
(a)
Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at the top of its stroke.
(b)
Scrape the carbon from the cylinder head and the top of the piston with a broad blunt tool. Emery
cloth must NOT be used. Do not allow carbon dust to fall between the piston and the cylinder
bore.
(c)
Thoroughly clean out the exhaust and inlet ports and manifolds.
(dl
DO NOT remove the air cell from the cylinder head. If a carbon deposit has formed in the air cell
nozzle, it may be cleaned with a soft piece of wire.
(e)
Make sure that the recesses at the end of the valve guide bores are free from carbon.
(f)
Thoroughly clean the valves and examine the valve seats. If these show signs of pitting, they should
be ground in.
(g)
Make sure the valves are seating properly. Leaking valves cause loss of compression and difficult
starting.
35. TO REMOVE VALVE GUIDES
(a)
EXTREME CARE ANO CLEANLINESS is essential at all times when removing or replacing the
valve guides.
(b)
Thoroughly wash the cylinder head with petrol or paraffin to ensure that all carbon, oil and dirt
has been removed.
(c)
To remove the valve guides, place the cylinder head in boiling water for two minutes. Support the
head on blocks at least % in. (12 mm) thick, to prevent the valve guides bottoming. Press out the
guides from the valve seat side with the aid of a hand press and punch.
(d)
If a press is not available, a drift may be used, but SPECIAL CARE MUST BE TAKEN to avoid the
drift slipping, scoring or otherwise damaging the bores.
(e)
DO NOT USE EXCESSIVE FORCE if heavy resistance is encountered, but replace the cylinder
head in boiling water for a further two minutes.
(f)
When pressing out the guides ensure that the punch does not score or damage the bores in any way.
Failure to observe this precaution may result in the new guides being loose in the cylinder head.
36. TO REPLACE VALVE GUIDES
(a)
Before fitting new guides, ensure the bores in the cylinder head and the body of the guides are
clean.
(b)
Place the cylinder head in boiling water for two minutes, enter the guides squarely in the bores
from the rocker box side, and press home to the shoulder.
(c)
If a press is not availabie, a drift may be used, but SPECIAL CARE MUST BE TAKEN to avoid the
drift slipping, scoring or otherwise damaging the bores.
(d)
The valve guides have a bonded coating and MUST NOT BE REAMED.
(e)
Grind in the valves.
37. TO GRIND IN VALVES
(a)
Care must be taken that the valves are returned to their correct seating for this operation.
(b)
Place a very small quantity of grinding paste evenly around the valve seat and insert the valve.
Partially rotate the valve backwards and forwards on its seating, exerting a gentle but firm pressure.
(c)
Periodically lift the valve from its seating and give it half a turn, thus ensuring that the grinding
paste is evenly spread.
(d)
It is unnecessary to continue grinding once the faces of the valve and its seating have a clean, even,
matt·surfaced appearance. A polished surface must not be expected and is unnecessary.
(e)
Wash out the ports thoroughly with petrol or paraffin making sure that all traces of grinding paste
are removed from the valves and guides.
(t)
Replace the valves and rotate them backwards and forwards a few times. If the valves have been
correctly ground a thin polished line will appear all round the seat.
A14
38. TO REPLACE CYLINDER HEAD
(a)
Generally reverse the instructions for removal and dismantling. The rocker bushes and push rod
ends should be smeared with molybdenum-disulphide grease before assembly.
(b)
It is IMPORTANT that the exhaust and inlet valves be returned to their correct positions.
(c)
If the valves are distorted or very badly pitted, new ones must be fitted and ground in.
(d)
If the valve guides show signs of wear or scoring, they should be replaced.
(e)
Whenever the cylinder head is removed after the engine has been run, a new gasket MUST be
fitted.
(f)
Before replacing the cylinder head, smear the top of the gasket with 'Golden Hermatite' to prevent
sticking. If the gasket sticks to the cylinder head, its removal may cause damage and so accelerate
corrosion.
(g)
As the engine is fitted with long through studs from crankcase to cylinder head it is MOST
IMPORTANT that the cylinder head nuts are correctly tightened and in the right sequence.
(h)
It is advisable to use a torque spanner for tightening the cylinder head nuts. It should be set to the
figure shown under Technical Data. Proceed as follows:
(i)
Screw down each cylinder head nut until fihger tight.
(ii)
Tighten each nut a quarter of a turn at a time, livorking diagonally across the cylinder head,
until all the nuts are tight.
(iii) After approximately 20 hours running check again for tightness.
(j)
Do not replace the heat exchanger until after the cylinder head nuts have been tightened.
(k)
When reassembly is complete and before attempting to start the engine, bleeq and prime the fuel
system.
39. TO ADJUST VALVE ROCKERS Fig. 9
(a)
To adjust the clearance, set the engine with valves closed (TOe of firing stroke), loosen the locknut
(AI and turn the rocker adjusting screw (B) with a screwdriver. Measure the gap with a feeler gauge,
and when the correct setting is obtained (see Technical Data) retighten the locknut. Recheck the
gap.
(b)
IMPORTANT. The cylinder head must be firmly bolted in position, with all nuts finally tightened,
before the rocker clearances are adjusted.
FIG.9
A15
40. TO REMOVE CYLINDER AND PISTON
(a)
Remove the cylinder head.
(b)
Lift the cylinder off the crankcase and draw it off the piston.
(c)
To remove the piston, take out one gudgeon pin circlip and push out the gudgeon pin. If the
gudgeon pin is a tight fit in the piston, wrap the piston in a cloth soaked in hot water. After a few
minutes the gudgeon pin will be released and can be pushed out.
41. CYLINDER MAINTENANCE
(a)
When the cyl inner bore wear has reached the maximum (see Technical Data) the cylinder should
be boren out an oversize piston and rings fitted.
(ll)
The cylinder should be rebored and honed to the sizes shown under Technical Data.
42. PISTON MAINTENANCE Fig. 10
Excessive lubricating oil consumption, loss of compression and knocking are signs that a piston may need
attention.
(a)
If the ring gaps are excessive (see Technical Data) the rings should be renewed. To measure the
gaps remove the rings from the piston noting the order of assembly and which ring face is uppermost.
(b)
Remove all the carbon deposit from the rings and ring grooves. The small holes (A) in the scraper
ring grooves should receive attention as their purpose is to return excess oil to the sump.
(c)
Insert the piston into the cylinder bore with the crown towards the bottom end of the bore to
about '/, in. (13 mm) from the bottom edge. Insert the rings one at a time, pushing each ring hard
up against the piston crown to ensure that it is level in the cylinder bore. Withdraw the piston
sufficiently to allow the gap to be checked with a feeler gauge.
(el)
Assemble the rings on the piston in the correct order with the correct face uppermost. Rings
should not be slack or stuck fast in the groove.
(e)
When the engine has been fully run·in, the bore will have a highly polished and very hard surface.
If new rings are fitted without the cylinder being rebored or resleeved, the new rings will not bed
in satisfactorily. Under these conditions the cylinder should be removed and the hard polished
bore lightly roughened using a medium grade emery cloth. The roughening should be carried out
radially, by hand, and should be sufficient only to produce a matt surface in the bore. After this
treatment the cyl inder must be thoroughly washed in petrol or paraffin to remove all traces of
carborundum.
FIG.10
A16
43. TO REPLACE CYLINDER AND PISTON
(a)
Take care that the piston ring gaps are not in line, but well distributed around the piston circum·
ference.
(b)
Replace the shims between the cylinder and cl·ankcase. The thickness of the shims controls the
bumping clearance between the piston and cylinder head at TDC.
(c)
Before comp:eting reassembly check the bumping clearance (see Technical Data) as follows:
(i)
Insert a length of lead wire or soft solder through the injector pOl't in the cylinder head. Pull
through sufficient to allow approximately 1 in. (25 mm) to be positioned flat on the cylinder
head iJetween the inlet and exhaust valves. Wind any surplus wire around the injector studs,
(ii)
Replace the cylinder head, fitting a new gasket, and tighten the nuts in the corl'ect sequence
with a torque.
(iii) Turn the engine ovel' TDC and then carefully remove the wire.
(iv)
Measure the thickness of the now flattened wil'e with a micrometer. If the clearance is out·
side the limit, adjust by changing one or more of the shims at the base of the cylinder, and
recheck the bumping clearance.
(d)
After completing reassembly, check the valve rocker clearance.
44. TO EXAMINE CONNECTING ROD
(a)
Remove cylinder head and cylinder.
(b)
Check for undue play or shake in the large and small end bearings.
45. TO REMOVE CONNECTING ROD
(a)
Remove piant from vessel.
(b)
Remove cylinder head and cylinder.
(c)
Drain oil from enlJine sump.
(d)
Remove the generator.
(e)
Stand the engine on the bellhousing. To protect the studs support the engine on two pieces of
wood of suitable thickness.
(f)
Remove the sump.
(g)
Unscrew the large end bolts and withdraw the connecting rod and piston assembly, being careful
to note in which position the bearing halves are fitted.
46. CONNECTING ROD MAINTENANCE
(a)
When fitting a small end bush take care that the oil hole coincides with that in the connecting rod
and that the bush enters the connecting rod squarely. In the absence of a press, a block of wood
and mallet may be used for driving it home.
(b)
New small end bushes are supplied with a reaming allowance, alld after fitting must be reamed to
the size shown under Technical Data.
(c)
Large end bearings are of the precision thin wall steel back type and consist of two half shells lined
with bearing metal. They should be replaced in their original positions.
(d)
New bearinqs are machined to qive the required fit when in position and should not be scraped or
bedded in, neither should shims of any description be fitted. If the faces of the connecting rod or
its cap are filed the rod becomes useless regarding replacement bearing shells, When fitting, make
sure that the connecting rod bore, the outside of the shells and their split faces are clean.
(e)
Connecting rods and caps are stamped with an assembly serial number and care must be taken that
numbers are correctly assembled and on the same side.
(f)
Undersize bearings are obtainable from
All
47. TO REPLACE CONNECTING ROD
(a)
Generally reverse the instructions for removal, making sure that the connecting rod cap is away
from the depstick side of the engine.
(b)
It is advisable to use a torque spanner for tightening the large end bolts. It should be set to the
figure shown under Technical Data.
(c)
Do not over·tighten the large end bolts or the bearing may distort. If a torque spanner is not
available, the bolts may be tightened using a moderate force on a spanner gripped approximately
8 in. (200 mm) from the bolt.
(d)
When replacing the cylinder and cylinder head, check the bumping clearance and valve rocker
clearance.
48. TO REMOVE FLYWHEEL
(a)
Remove the generator and bellhousing adaptor.
(b)
Secure the flywheel by inserting a hexagon wrench key or steel rod through the timing hole in the
bellhousing, and locating it in the hole in the flywheel periphery. This rod must not be loose, but a
good fit in the flywheel hole.
(c)
Bend back the tabwasher and remove the flywheel retaining nut.
(d)
Remove the securing rod.
(e)
A simple extractor will be required to remove the flywheel, as it is fitted on a tapered shaft and
located by a key.
(f)
Remove the flywheel locating key.
49. TO REPLACE FLYWHEEL
(a)
Generally reverse the instructions for removal.
(b)
Ensure that the flywheel locating key is replaced in the crankshaft before fitting the flywheel.
(c)
A new tabwasher must be fitted before tightening the flywheel retaining nut. It is adivsable to use
a torque spanner for tightening the flywheel nut, and should be set to the figure shown under
Technical Data.
(d)
When the nut is tight, knock up the tabwasher.
50. TO REMOVE CRANKSHAFT
(a)
Remove the cylinder head, cylinder, connecting rod and flywheel.
(Il)
Remove the solenoid and starter motor, if fitted.
(c)
Remove the fuel and oil pipes, and place them in a clean container filled with clean fuel. (See Fuel
System) .
(d)
{Deleted}
(e)
Remove the gear cover. This is dowelled to the crankcase.
(f)
Remove the crankshaft gearwheel retaining bolt. Withdraw the gear wheel with a simple extractor.
(g)
Remove the nuts retaining the flywheel end main bearing housing. Remove the housing taking
care not to damage the oil seat.
(h)
Withdraw the crankshaft by pulling towards the flywheel end.
AlB
51. CRANKSHAFT MAINTENANCE
(a)
Carefully examine the bearing journals and crankpin. They should be free from score marks and
ovality should not exceed the maximum (see Technical Data).
(b)
If these defects are present the crankshaft should be reground to the diameter shown under Tech·
nical Data and undersize bearings fitted.
(c)
Carefully clean out the oil holes and make sure they have radiused edges.
52. MAIN BEARING MAINTENANCE
(a)
Main bearings are of the rrecision thin wall steel backed sleeve type lined with bearing metal.
(b)
When removing a gear end bearing from the crankcase or a flywheel end bearing from the bearing
housing, heat the crankcase or bearing housing to a temperature of 931120 0 C (2001250 0 F) before
pressing out the bearing.
(c)
When fitting a bearing, the crankcase or bearing housing should again be heated as above and the
outer surface of the bearing should be smeared with molybdenum·disulphide grease or tallow
before pressing in. It is an advantage if the bearing can be placed in a domestic type refrigerator for
a time before fitting.
(d)
Do not remove the bearings unnecessarily or their tightness in the crankcase or bearing housing
may be affected. It is not advisable to remove the bearings more than five times.
(e)
When fitting a bearing take care that it enters squarely.
(f)
New bearings are machined to give the required fit when in position and should not be scraped or
bedded in, neither should shims of any description be fitted.
(g)
Undersize bearings are obtainable.
53. TO REPLACE CRANKSHAFT AND TIME ENGINE Fig.11
(a)
Generally reverse the instructions for removal.
(b)
Fit new bearings if the old ones have excessive clearance or show signs of the metal having run.
(c)
If the main bearing housing has been removed make sure it is correctly fitted with the oil drain
hole at the bottom.
(d)
When fitting new thrust washers, be sure that the grooved sides are away from the bearing housing
and that the tongues (A) are located in their respective recesses. Fit new pins (B).
(e)
Before completing the assembly, check the end float (Y) and if excessive fit new thrust washers
(see Technical Data).
(f)
When assembling the gearwheels make sure that the teeth marked with dots are in their relative
positions.
(g)
{Deleted}
(h)
{Deleted}
(j)
Replace the water pump, ensuring that the impeller is correctly fitted to the shaft.
(k)
Check the bumping clearance.
(I)
Bleed and prime the fuel system.
A
~'J
.
,"1
''''''
\
. ." ,\
\ " -,', " j
".
,,A
FIG. 11
A19
54. TO REMOVE CAMSHAFT Fig. 12
(a)
Drain the engine sump.
(b)
Remove the starter motor, if fitted.
(c)
Drain and remove the fuel tank. Remove the fuel pipes placing them in clean fuel (see Fuel
System). Remove fuel injection pump. Cover holes in injector against admission of dirt, etc.
(d)
Remove the water pump, raised hand starting assembly and gear cover.
(e)
Remove the rocker cover, rocker support and rocker assembly and withdraw the push rods.
(f)
Turn the engine onto its side to prevent the tappets from falling into the sump.
(g)
Remove the extension shaft from the camshaft gearwheel.
(h)
Remove the screw (A) retaining the camshaft thrust plate. These are accessible through holes in
the gearwheel. Withdraw the camshaft and gearwheel assembly from the gear end of the engine.
(j)
The gearwheel is a tight fit on the camshaft. To fit a new thrust plate, remove the gearwheel
retaining bolt and press the shaft from the gearwheel. The gearwheel is keyed to the shaft.
55. CAMSHAFT MAINTENANCE
(a)
Carefully examine the faces of the cams. If these are worn or chipped it will be necessary to fit a
new camshaft.
FIG.13
FIG. 12
56. TO REPLACE CAMSHAFT AND TIME ENGINE Fig. 13
(a)
Generally reverse instructions for removal.
(b)
When assembling the gearwheels make sure that the teeth marked with dots are in their relative
positions.
(c)
Bleed and prime the fuel system, retime the fuel injection pump and adjust the valve clearances.
(d)
Refill the engine sump with lubricating oil.
57. TO REMOVE GOVERNOR Fig. 14
(a)
Remove the water pump, raised hand starting assembly and gear cover.
(b)
Remove the screws (A) securing the governor assembly to the crankcase and withdraw it.
A20
58. TO REMOVE GOVERNOR LINKAGE Fig. 14
(a)
Remove the governor.
(b)
Remove the gearwheel from the camshaft.
(c)
Move the stop/run lever (B) to the 'RUN' position, i.e. horizontal.
(d)
Remove the screws (e) securing the governor stop cover (D), or speed control bracket if fitted
and remove it.
(e)
Loosen the governor bracket screw (E). and remove the bracket (F), speeder spring and speeder
spring plunger.
(f)
Remove the operating shaft plug (G) and withdraw the shaft (H) and fuel pump operating lever (J).
(g)
Remove the pin (K) securing the overload stop lever (L) if fitted, and remove the lever. DO NOT
loosen the screw (M) clamping the overload stop cam (N) to the spindle. The cam is set
and should not be disturbed unless a new fuel pump is fitted (see instructions given
under 'To fit new fuel injection pump').
(h)
Remove the overload stop cam and spindle assembly and the return spring (P).
59.
GOVERNOR AND LINKAGE MAINTENANCE Fig. 14
(a)
Thoroughly clean all parts in paraffin or clean fuel, paying particular attention to all bearings and
governor balls.
(b)
Examine the faces of the governor sliding and rotating housings for signs of wear. If worn, the
governor assembly must be replaced.
(c)
If oil leaks at the overload stop spindle or the stop/run lever spindle (R), carefully remove the
spindle and renew the oil seal. When refitting the spindle ensure that it is free from burrs.
G
FIG.14
A21
60. TO REPLACE GOVERNOR AND LINKAGE Fig. 14
(a)
Generally reverse the instructions for removal.
(b)
Ensure that the fuel pump lever fork end is correctly located on the fuel pump rack ball (S).
(c)
Before replacing the overload stop assembly, adjust the governor linkage to the correct position
as follows:-:
(i)
With the governor bracket screw (E) loose, make sure that the governor bracket fork ends
are hard against the governor thrust bearing when the faces of the governor sliding and
rotating housings are together.
(ii)
Push the fuel pump operating lever as far as possible to the fuel pump fully open position.
(iii) Tighten the governor bracket locking screw.
(iv) Check the setting (X) between the operating shaft bush and the operating lever with a
feeler gauge. This should be O.010in (O.25mm).
(v)
Replace the overload stop assembly.
(d)
If the overload stop cam has been moved on its spindle, the overload setting will have to be
checked. For procedure, see 'To fit new fuel injection pump'.
61. LUBRICATING OIL SYSTEM Fig. 15
(a)
The lubricating oil system i~. as follows:(i)
A rotary oil pump (A) is mounted in the crankcase at the gear end. The pump is driven by a
gear from the camshaft.
(ii)
Oil is drawn through a strainer (S) and fed to the filter (C).
(iii) Oil flows from the filter via a hole in the crankcase to the gear end main bearing. It is then
transferred via holes in the crankshaft to the large end bearing and the flywheel end main
bearing.
(iv) The valve rockers are supplied by an external pipe.
(v)
A pressure relief valve is incorporated to control the oil pressure.
(b)
The cylinder, small end bearing and camshaft are splash lubricated.
(c)
The crankcase can be drained by removing the plug at the bottom of the sump.
(d)
Oil must always be CLEAN and containers, funnels, etc., must be kept in a spotless condition.
Use only approved oil. Cheap, unsuitable or dirty oil will cause trouble.
FIG. 15
A22
62. TO CLEAN OIL FILTER
(a)
Unscrew the bolt at the centre of the filter cover and withdraw the cover and element.
(b)
Thoroughly clean out the cover and renew the joint ring.
(c)
If the element shows a large deposit of dirt, it should be replaced
Do not attempt to clean the element.
(d)
When replacing the element, it is advisable to use a torque spanner for tightening the centre bolt.
It should be set to the figure shown under Technical Data.
63. OIL PUMP STRAINER
(a)
To remove
(i)
Drain oil from the sump.
(ii)
Remove sump.
(iii) Remove the centre bolt and spring plate and remove the strainer.
(b)
To clean, wash the strainer in clean paraffin or fuel.
(c)
To replace, generally reverse the instructions for removal, making sure that the strainer is correctly
seated in the sump.
64. TO REMOVE OIL PUMP
(a)
Drain the engine sump.
(b)
(Deleted)
(c)
Remove the water pump, raised hand starting assembly and gear cover.
(d)
Loosen the oil pump gearwheel retaining nut.
(e)
Remove the camshaft and gearwheel assembly.
(f)
Remove the nut retaining the oil pump gearwheel and remove the gearwheel. The gearwheel is
keyed to the shaft.
(g)
Remove the screws securing the pump and withdraw the pump.
(h)
The backplate is dowelled to the body.
65. OIL PUMP MAINTENANCE
(a)
Thoroughly clean all parts.
(b)
Carefully examine the rotor and stator. If they are scored or show signs of wear fit new parts.
66. TO REPLACE OIL PUMP
(a)
Generally reverse the instructions for removal.
(b)
Pour a small quantity of engine oil into the pump through the port before assembling the pump to
the engine.
(c)
It is advisable to use a torque spanner for tightening the oil pump screws. It should be set to the
figure shown under Technical Data.
67. FUEL SYSTEM
(a)
Fuel from the tank flows through a filter to the injection pump which supplies it under high
pressure to the injector.
(b)
A small amount of fuel is always leaking back along the injector nozzle needle and this is returned
to the fuel system by a pipe.
(c)
The quantity of fuel injected during each cycle is very small and the fuel injection equipment is
manufactured to very fine limits. IT REQUIRES EXTREME CARE AND ABSOLUTE CLEANLINESS IN HANDLING.
(d)
Should any part of the fuel system, including pipes, be removed from the engine, it should be
placed in a clean container which is filled with clean fuel. NO FI LING, GRINDING, SCRAPING
OR SAWING SHOULD BE CARRIED OUT WITHIN A FEW YARDS OF DISMANTLED FUEL
INJECTION EQUIPMENT.
A23
(e)
Replace the equipment wet. No rag, cloth or waste should touch it.
(f)
Unless the user has been trained in the care and repair of fuel injection equipment, he should not
dismantle it in any way other than as described in subsequent paragraphs.
(g)
Fuel pumps and injectors should be returned to an authorised agent for repair or replacement. Users
are advised to keep a nozzle in their spares kit so that a faulty one can be renewed immediately.
68. TO CLEAN FUEL FILTER
(Refer to Paragraph 18B l
(Deleted).
69
70 TO REMOVE FUEL INJECTION PUMP
(a)
Drain the fuel tank.
(b)
Remove the solenoid and starter, if fitted.
(c)
Remove the tank·to-pump and pump·to-injector fuel pipes.
(d)
Remove the pump, noting the number and total thickness of shims between the fuel pump and
crankcase.
71. TO DISMANTLE FUEL INJECTION PUMP Fig. 1 6
Fixed
sp~d
(a)
Thoroughly clean the exterior of the pump.
(b)
Unscrew the union body (A) and lift out the delivery valve spring (8) and the delivery valve (C).
(c)
Withdraw the delivery valve seat (D), the joint (E) and the ring (F),
(d)
Rotate the circlip (G) in its groove.until the dowel (H) is between the ends of the circlip.
(e)
Press down the tappet and roller assembly against the spring pressure and shake out the dowel (H).
(f)
Remove the tappet (J) together with the roller and roller pin. Note the number and thickness of
the calibrating shims (K) between the tappet and the lower spring plate (L).
(g)
Remove the lower spring plate (Ll, the plunger (M) and the plunger spring (N). Note the C!ssembly
mark on the plunger arm farthest from the rack (P).
(h)
Remove the upper spring plate (R) and the pinion (S). Note the assembly marks on one tooth of
the pinion (S) and on the rack (P). Note also the relative position of the 'STOP' mark and arrow
on the rack before sliding out the rack from the pump body.
(j)
Remove the element locating screw (T) and push out the element (U) through the top of the
pump.
engines
Variable Speed Engines
NOTE: Fuel injection pumps fitted to all variable speed engines are subject to
special calibration by the manufacturer and only the delivery side may be dismantled. The pump / control side must not be dismantled and should be returned to
the manufacturer.
(a)
(b)
(c)
Thoroughly clean the exterior of the pump.
Unscrew the delivery union body (A). lift out the delivery spring (B) and
the delivery valve (C).
Withdraw the delivery valve seal (D). the gasket (E) and sealing ring (F).
A24
72. FUEL INJECTION PUMP MAINTENANCE
(a)
Each plunger of a pump assembly is mated to one element and must never be used in another.
(b)
Make sure the delivery valve joint and ring are in good condition and that the valve is seating
correctly. Leaking valves cause loss of fuel injection pressure and difficult starting.
(c)
Make sure the rack is free throughout its travel.
73. TO REPLACE FUEL INJECTION PUMP Fig. 16
(a)
Generally reverse the instructions for removal and dismantling.
(b)
Thoroughly clean all parts in clean fuel and assemble wet.
(c)
The ring (F) should be fitted over the lower shoulder of the union body (A) before the union
body is screwed into the pump body. Failure to observe this precaution may result in the ring
being crushed between the union body and the joint (E). A torque spanner is advisable for tighten·
ing the union body. It should be set to the figure shown under Technical Data.
(d)
When assembling the rack (P) and pinion (S) make sure that the marked tooth of the pinion is
opposite the mark on the rack and that the rack is assembled in the pump body so that the 'STOP'
mark and arrow will be towards the gear end of the engine when the pump is fitted.
(e)
Make sure that the element (U) can be moved up and down slightly when the locating screw (T) is
tightened.
(f)
Replace the plunger (M) with the marked locating arm engaged with the marked slot in the pinion
(S), i.e., the marked locating arm is towards the locating screw (T).
(g)
With the element, plunger and pinion correctly assembled, the scroll at the top of the plunger will
be adjacent to the fuel port in the side of the element when the rack is in the centre of its travel.
(h)
Replace the tappet (J) making sure that the correct number and thickness of shims is used.
(j)
Press down the tappet and roller assembly and fit the dowel (H) to engage with the slot in the
tappet. Rotate the dowel to line up its slot with the ends of the circlip (G) and then turn the circlip
in its groove until the ends of the circlip are away from the dowel.
~.~--P
.~--.
._____M
R
~~0'"-"==---L
~--'-~--=-~K
FIG. 16
A25
(k)
Make sure that the fuel pump cam is away from the fuel pump housing - turn the engine until the
exhaust or inlet valve is open.
(I)
Make sure that the fuel pump rack ball engages with the governor fork and that the correct number
and thickness of shims is fitted between the pump and crankcase.
(m)
IMPORTANT. New fuel injection pumps require special fitting instructions and these are given in
the following paragraph.
74. TO FIT NEW FUEL INJECTION PUMP Fig.14
Fixed speed engines
(a)
Make sure that the fuel pump cam is at the bottom of its stroke. Turn the engine until the exhaust
or inlet valve is open.
(b)
Turn the STOP/RUN lever (B) until the governor lever fork end is at the centre of the fuel pump
housing.
(c)
Fit the fuel pump. Make sure that the fuel pump rack ball (5) has engaged with the governor lever
fork.
(d)
Time the fuel iniection pump.
Variable Speed Engines
(a) Repeat procedures (a) thru (c) for "Fixed Speed Engines. "
(b) Loosen the overload stop cam screw (M).
(c) Turn the stop/run lever fully towards the "STOP" position and measure
the distance (Y) between the end of the fuel pump rack and the gear cover
face using a depth gauge.
(d) Add 0-500 in. 02-70 mm) (Z) to the depth gauge reading and reset the fuel
pump rack in this position by turning the stop / run lever towards the
"RUN" position.
(e) Hold the rack in this position and set the overload stop cam (N) to just
touch the overload stop on the fuel pump operating lever. With the overload stop cam in this position, tighten the cam screw (M).
(f) Check that the total movement from the fully forward (stop) position to the
overload stop position is 0-500 in. 02-70 mm).
(g) Time the fuel injection pump.
NOTE: Variable speed engines are fitted with special fuel injection pumps. Quote
the type required when ordering new pumps.
75. TO TIME FUEL INJECTION PUMP Fig. 16 and 17
Before timing the pump be sure the fuel line is bled up to the fuel pump.
(0)
On fixed speed engines running at speeds above 3000 rev / min. and on all
variable speed engines, move the stop/run lever towards the 'STOP"
position until it is 10 0 before the vertic~ position. At this position the
pump rack will be held away from the retarded spill point. Fix the stop /
run lever in this position and carry out the instructions given in subparagraphs (b) to (k). On all fixed speed engines running at 3000 rev/min.
and below, the stop / run lever may be left in the "RUN" position, i. e. ,
horizontal. On variable speed engines, move the speed control to the full
speed position. Do not operate the Overload Stop Lever.
Ib)
Drain the fuel tank. Remove the pump-to·injector pipe and unscrew the union body from the pump.
Make sure that the union body sealing ring is withdrawn with the union body.
Ie)
Lift out the delivery valve and spring and place them in clean fuel. Do not disturb the. delivery
valve seat .or the joint washer. Replace the union body and sealing ring leaving out the delivery
valve and spring.
A26
(d)
Turn the flywheel until it is a quarter of a turn before TOC on the compression stroke.
(e)
Pour a quantity of fuel into the tank. A small stream of fuel should then flow from the pump.
(f)
Turn the flywheel slowly by hand in the normal running direction until the flow from the pump
stops. Find by repeated trial the EXACT flywheel position at which this happens. This position is
known as the spill point.
(g)
When the flywheel is in the exact position where the flow stops, the appropriate timing mark preceding the TOe hole in the flywheel should be in line with the hole in the bellhousing.
(h)
If the timing mark indicates a position before the bellhousing hole, add shims between the pump
and crankcase until the correct timing is obtained. If the timing mark indicates a position after the
bellhousing hole, remove shims to obtain the correct timing.
(j)
Reassemble the fuel injection equipment including the fuel delivery valve and spring. Make sure
that the union body sealing ring is fitted and is not damaged.
(k)
Bleed the fuel system.
76. TO REMOVE AND TEST FUEL INJECTOR
(a)
Disconnect the fuel feed and leak-off pipes from the injector.
(b)
Remove the injector flange nuts and carefully lever out the injector. Examine the joint washer and
renew if necessary.
(c)
Reconnect the injector to the pump-to-injector pipe in such a way that the nozzle points away from
the engine.
(d)
Turn the engine over slowly. The fuel should squirt out suddenly in a fine mist spray which should
stop as suddenly. If the nozzle fails to spray, or gives a solid squirt of fuel, or dribbles after the
spray has stopped. fit a new nozzle.
(e)
When testing. BE CAREFUL to see that the ~pray is not directed at any exposed part of the body.
The force behind the spray will cause it to penetrate the skin.
--A
- .---- B
----c
e .
--D
. -.. - - - E
~F
FIG. 17
cr---
H
~G
FIG_18
J--
M--L-··------="""'-'~
N-----A
A27
77. FUEL INJECTOR MAINTENANCE Fig. 18
(a)
Thoroughly clean the exterior of the injector.
(b)
Remove the nozzle holder cap nut (A) and the locknut (B).
(c)
Remove the spring adjusting screw (C) and remove the spring pad (0), the spring (E) and the spring
pressure rod (F).
(d)
Remove the nozzle nut (G) and the nozzle assembly (HI. Each needle of a nozzle assembly is mated
to one nozzle body and must never be used in another.
(e)
To ensure a thorough cleaning of all parts they should be left in a bath of clean fuel. After this
treatment, any remaining carbon can be scraped off with a soft brass wire brush or a piece of clean
wood or brass.
(f)
The nozzle holder and nozzle joint faces must be clean with mirror·like appearance. The nozzle and
nozzle nut clamping shoulders must be clean.
(g)
The nozzle body fuel holes (J) should be cleaned by pushing a wire or twist drill (K) down to the
fuel chamber (L) being careful not to scratch the joint face.
(h)
Insert a nozzle scraper (M) down into the fuel chamber, press sideways and rotate to remove
carbon, etc.
(j)
Soft carbon can be removed from the spray hole with a spray hole cleaner (N).
(k)
Wash the nozzle body and needle in clean fuel and assemble wet.
(I)
To fit a nozzle assembly to the nozzle holder body, hold it hard against the pressure face and
tighten the nozzle nut.
(m)
To complete the assembly of the injector, grease the spring assembly and replace it, together with
the adjuster, locknut and cap nut.
(n)
Reset the fuel injector release pressure to the figure shown under Technical Data. A test pump for
this purpose can be obtained from Petters Ltd. or their agents. To adjust the release pressure,
loosen the locknut (B) and screw in the adjusting screw (e) to increase the pressure or out to
decrease it. Tighten the locknut.
(p)
Injectors not required for immediate use should have pipe connections sealed against the admission
of dirt, etc.
78. TO REPLACE FUel INJECTOR
(a)
It is MOST I MPORTANT that the pump·to·injector pipe is correctly fitted or the pipe and injector
may be damaged.
Proceed as follows:
(i)
Loosely fit the injector flange nuts.
Fit the pipe and tighten the union nuts finger tight, then give them a third of a turn with a
(ii)
spanner.
(iii) Tighten the injector flange nuts evenly. It is advisable to use a torque spanner for tightening
the nuts. It should be set to the figure shown under Technical Data.
(b)
Reconnect the leak·off pipe.
(c)
Bleed the fuel system.
A28
.
79. TO ADJUST SPEED CONTROL (Figs. 19 and 20)
The centrifugal forces on the governor balls are transmitted to the fuel pump rack.
These forces, which vary with the speed of the engine, are balanced by an adjustable speeder spring (A). This adjustment allows a set range of speed. To adjust
the speed outside this range a different fuel pump and springs may be required and
these are obtainable from the manufacturer.
The speed is set and should not require further adjustment.
ting is disturbed, adjustments are carried out as follows:
(a)
Fixed speed
(1)
Loosen the locknut (C) on the dipstick side of the engine and screw in
the adjuster (B) to increase the speed or out to decrease it. Tighten
the locknut.
Fig. 19
(b)
However, if the set-
Fixed
Fig. 20
Variable
Variable speed
(1)
(2)
(3)
Set the speed control in the idling position.
Loosen the locknut (C) and adjust the idling speed to approximately
1000 rev/min by screwing in the adjuster (B) to increase the speed or
out to decrease it. Tighten the locknut.
Set the speed control in the full speed position.
80. AIR CLEANER MAINTENANCE (Refer to Par. 18A)
81. STARTER MOTOR (WPD-3 GENERATOR)
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(e)
Mounting - Make sure the motor is securely mounted on the engine.
Lubrication - Bearings are lubricated on assembly and require no attention between overhaul periods.
Terminals - Main terminals and all circuit connections must be clean and
tight. Terminal shrouds should be in position.
Brush gear - Remove the cover and inspect the brushes and commutator.
Brushes should be free in their slides. Springs should seat squarely on
the brushes. See that the insulation is in good condition. The brushes
and commutator should be free from dust and grease and contact surfaces
clean, smooth and uniform in colour.
Solenoid - The solenoid should move freely and contact faces be clean and
unburnt. Do not attempt to clean the solenoid without disconnecting the
battery.
A29
25 ENGINE TROUBLE LOCATING CHART
Temperature below
13°C (55°F)
Failure to prime (see Cold Starting)
Prime with lubricating oil
Fuel supply failure
Check by turning
engine and listen for
the characteristic
squeak in the
injector
No fuel in tank
Air in pipe line
Broken fuel pipe or leaking connection
Fuel filter choked
Faulty injector nozzle
Fuel pump plunger sticking
Fuel pump tappet sticking
Fill tank and bleed fuel system
Bleed the system
Repair or renew the pipe or tighten the connection
Fit new fuel filter element
Fit new nozzle
Fit new pump
Free and clean tappet
Valves sticking
Cylinder head loose
Cylinder head gasket blown
Piston rings stuck in groove
Worn cylinder and piston
Free the valves
Tighten all nuts
Fit new gasket
Check rings and clean the piston
Overhaul the engine
Check valve springs
Grind in if necessary
Check the valve clearance
Engine will
not start
Poor compression
Valves not seating properly
Incorrect lubricating oil
I
Engine lacks
power and/or
shows dirty
exhaust
Drain the sump and fill with correct oil
----
Bleed the system
Drain fuel system and fill with clean fuel
Fit new nozzle
Fit new filter element
Faulty compression
Broken valve spring
Sticking valve
Pitted valve
Fit new spring
Free the valve
Grind or renew
Dirty engine
Blocked exhaust pipe or similar
Clean out
Faulty fuel supply
Faulty fuel pump
Faulty injector nozzle
Unsuitable fuel
Fit new pump
Fit ne", nozzle
Drain the fuel system and fill with correct fuel
Valve clearances incorrect
Fuel timing incorrect
Adjust
Adjust
Blocked exhaust pipe or similar
Dirty air cleaner
Faulty piston ring
Excessive carbon on piston and
cylinder head
Worn cylinder or piston
Clean out
Clean out
Fit new ring
Carbon on piston crown
Injector needle sticking
Fuel timing too far advanced
Broken piston ring
Slack piston
Worn large end bearing
Loose flywheel
Worn main bearing
Decarbonise
Fit new nozzle
Adjust timing
Fit new ring
Fit new piston
Renew and check lubrication
Refit
Renew and check lubrication
Cooling system failure:
Suction pipe blocked
Air leak in suction pipe
Broken water pump rotor
Faulty water pump seal
Overloaded
Excessive valve clearance
Lubricating oil failure
Check for leaks or blockages
Remove and clean
Check and tighten fittings
Replace rotor and check pump
Replace seal and check pump
Reduce the load
Adjust
Check the engine and lubricating oil system for
damage. If ,n order. top up sump and check running
Overheati ng
Air in fuel pipes
Governor sticking
See above
Bleed the system
Check the governor for correct operation
Empty fuel tank
Choked injector
Fuel pi pe broken
Seized piston
Fill tank and bleed system
Fit new I\ozzle
Repair or renew
Fit new cylinder and piston
Faulty installation
Check holding down bolts and flexible mountings
and couplings if fitted
Out of adjustment
Dirty engine
Knocking
Faulty
running
Too high a viscosity oil causing
excessive engine drag
{
Air ir, fuel lines
Water in the fuel
Faulty injector nozzle
Fuel filter choked
Faulty fuel supply
Engine starts
but fires
intermittently
or soon stops
Suggested Remedy
Causes
Reason
Trouble
Overheating
5 peed su rges
Sudden stop
Heavy vibration
Decarbon ise
Overhaul the engine
I
OTHER OVERHAUL
CONTENTS
SECTION
MARINE ENGINE ELECTRICAL SYSTEM ..•......•..•.•...•.•.....••.. Q
COOLI NG SYSTEM (EXTERNAL) ..•.......•...•••.•..••.•.....•.•.•. R
TRANsr1ISSIONS .••.•...•••••••••••••.•••••••••••••.•••••...•.•. 5
SECTION Q
Marine Engine Electrical System
BY LUBE OIL PRESSURE
(Keyswitch Start)
ACTIVATIO~
This system is supplied on all 4 and 6
cylinder Westerbeke diesels produced prior
to January 1975. Operation is very simple.
Putting the start switch in the Run position energizes an alarm system (when supplied). Returning the start switch to Off
position de-energizes the alarm.
Turning the start switch to Crank position operates the starting motor and starts
the engine. Upon starting, the start
switch is released to the Run position.
When the engine develops oil pressure,
voltage is supplied to the alternator for
excitation and to all instruments. Whenever the engine stops, loss of oil pressure removes voltage from these devices.
When an engine is furnished with a preheating device, it is energized by a separate push button at the key switch panel.
When an engine is furnished with an
electric stop solenoid, it is energized by
a separate push button at the key switch
panel.
NOTE: It is important that your engine installation includes fuses or circuit
breakers, as described under "Owner's Responsibility" on the wiring diagram supplied
with your engine.
Q7
WESTERBEKE 7
WIRI NG
~1ARINE
ENGINE
DIAGRAM
®,I NSTRUMENT
PANEL ASSEMBLY.
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Fig. P.l2. OS WIRING DIAGRAM FOR ELECTRIC PANEL
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Ammeter
Start Solenoid
Motor/Generator
Regulator
Key Switch
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Oil Pressure Gauge
Water Temperature Gauge
Oil Pressure Sender
Water Temperature Sender
Battery (Not Supplied)
SECTION R
COOLING SYSTEM (EXTERNAL)
DESCRIPTION
The Westerbeke 7 and WPD-4 units are equipped with a fresh water cooling
system. Transfer of heat from the fresh water (closed system) circuit to the
sea (raw) water is accomplished by a heat exchanger, similar to an automobile
radiator. It differs because raw water, not air, cools the engine's fresh
water. An unrestricted fast-flowing stream of sea water flows through the tubes
of the heat exchanger while the fresh water flows rapidly under low pressure
around the tubes of the heat exchanger. The raw water and fresh water never mix
so the water cooling passages in the engine stay clean.
1.
2.
FRESH WATER SYSTEM
Heat rejected in combustion, as well as heat developed by friction is
absorbed by the fesh water. The fresh water flows from the expansion tank
to the heat exchanger; here it is cooled and circulated by means of a centrifugal
fresh water pump into the engine block and cylinder head. Openings in the water
jacked around the cylinder bores connect with corresponding openings in the
cylinder head.where the fresh water circulates around the valves and fuel
injectors. When the engine reaches its operating temperature, the fresh
water then passes out through the thermostat into the expansion tank and the
circuit repeats.
3.
SEA WATER SYSTEM
The engine is directly cooled by the unrestricted fast-flowing stream of
sea water which absorbs the heat from the fresh water via the heat exchanger.
This raw water is picked up from the sea by a powerful neoprene impeller
sea water pump, and passes through the heat exhanger. It then, if the unit
is so equipped, flows into the water injected exhaust elbow and overboard
thru the exhaust pipe. If no elbow is used it should be piped directly
overboard.
•
>
RAW WATER
FRESH WATER
SURGE
HEAT
EXCHANGER
OVER
BOARD
RAW
WATER
PUMP
FROM
TANK
t--...-
SEA
COCK
FRESH
WATER
PUMP
ENGINE
BLOCK
GEAR
R2
4.
SEA WATER PUMP
The water pump on the W-7 is located on the rear of the transmission and
is aft of the high speed shaft. The water pump is a self-priming, positive
displacement rotary pump, with a brass case and a neoprene impeller. The
impeller has flexible vanes which wipe against a curved cam plate in the
impeller housing, producing the pumping action.
NOTE: As the water pump contains a neoprene impeller, on no account should
it be run in a dry condition. Always carry a spare impeller and gasket.
The water pump on the WPD~4 is located on the front of the engine and is
driven off the half speed shaft (camshaft)o
5.
DRAIN FRESH WATER SYSTEM
a. Remove the pressure cap from expansion tank.
b. Remove the hose from the bottom of the water pump. This hose comes
from the block and will drain the block. Water will also drain out
of the pump from the heat exchanger and the expansion tank.
c. The marine engine also has a petcock on the side of the block which
may be opened. (Petcocks turn counter-clockwise to open).
d. There is also a plug in the bottom of the heat exchanger which may
be removed in draining system.
6.
FILLING FRESHWATER SYSTEM
a. Replace the plug in the heat exchanger, if removed.
b. Close the petcock, if opened. (Turn clockwise to close).
c. Replace the hose on the pump.
d. Pour coolant (50-50 mix of water and permanent anti-freeze) into
the expansion tank and completly fill system to within one inch
from top of tank.
e. Start engine and run until normal operating temperature is reached.
Stop engine, carefully remove expansion tank filler cap and add coolant
as required.
7.
IMPELLER REPLACEMENT
a. Remove pump cover plate and gasket.
b. Remove impeller.
c. Coat the neoprene impeller and impeller chamber with a good grade of
water pump grease only.
d. Align impeller keyway with shaft key. Care should be taken that
the impeller blades all lie in the same direction relative to the
rotation of the pump, i.e., blades trailing.
e. Secure end cover and gasket with screws and lockwashers.
8.
THERMOSTAT REMOVAL AND REPLACEMENT
a. Drain cooling system as described in Section 5 above. The complete
system need not be drained as long as the level of the coolant 1S
below that of the thermostat housing.
b. Remove the 2 bolts holding the thermostat housing to the expansion
tank.
c. Loosen the clamp and hose at the elbow entering the cylinder head.
e. Test the thermostat's opening temperature by placing in water. Raise
the temperature of the water to that stamped on the thermostat.
f. If thermostat fails to open, replace with new thermostat.
g. Allow the temperature to cool. If the unit sticks open, replace the
thermostat.
h. Install thermostat with a new gasket, and secure the housing to the
expansion tank with the bolts and the hose and clamps to the cylinder
head.
i. Replace coolant as described in Section 6 above.
R3
9.
REMOVAL OF SEA WATER PUMP
a. Shut off sea water thru-hull valve.
b. Remove the two hoses from the pump.
c. Remove the three mounting screws and the pump cover plate.
d. The pump body and impeller can now be taken off together.
e. Inspect the impeller and if any vanes are found to be broken, check
thru the sea water lines. Broken vanes could block the flow of water
thru the lines.
10.
REMOVAL OF SEA WATER PUMP SHAFT AND SEALS (W-7)
a. With a crescent wrench across the flat on the pump shaft unscrew the shaft.
LEFT HAND THREAD.
b. With a suitable hooked tool, pullout both seals from the transmission.
c. When replacing the seals, the first (transmission oil) seal should be
placed with the spring side toward the transmission.
d. The second (sea water) seal should have the spring side toward the water
pump.
11.
REMOVAL OF FRESH WATER PUMP
a. Drain the cooling system and disconnect both hoses from the pump.
b. Remove the four screws from the pump cover.
c. Lift the De-compression lever and using the nut on the pump shaft,
turn the engine over until the ~ inch hole in the flywheel is visible.
thru the opening in the flywheel housing just above the starter.
d. Drop a suitable pin in the hole to luck the engine and unscrew the
pump shaft nut.
e. Remove the impeller
f. Unscrew the two pump body mounting screws and remove the pump body.
12.
REPLACING FRESH WATER PUMP SEALS
a. After removing the pump body (Section 11), press the seal out from the
housing.
b. Lightly spread a sealer, such as Permatex #2, on the outside of the
new seal and carefully press into the pump housing, taking care not to
damage the sealing surface.
c. With a small screwdriver, lever the ceramic ring from the pump impeller and
remove the neoprene washer.
d. Place a new ceramic ring in a new washer and lightly oil outside of the
washer
e. Press this assembly into the impeller BY HAND, using no tools.
13.
REMOVING BOTH PUMP SHAFTS (WPD-4) & FRESH WATER PUMP SHAFT (W-7)
a. Remove the water pumps.
b. Remove the mounting plate with heat exchanger and expansion tank attached.
c. Remove the timing case cover.
d. Remove the four screws holding the pump shaft and the shafts.
e. Timing cover gaskets and seals can be changed at this time.
f. Care must be taken when replacing the timing cover that the seals
are not damaged going over the shafts.
R4
OS and WPD3
1.
TO DRAIN COOLING SYSTEM
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(e)
Shut off the sea cock and remove the plugs from the cylinder. This
will allow the cooling water to drain out of the cylinder and cylinder
head.
Remove the pump outlet pipe and drain the cooling water from the
hose. Thi s wi 11 also drai n the coolant from the heat exchanger when
fitted.
When replacing the cylinder plugs, it is advisable to wrap 1~ turns
of 'P.T.F.E.I tape around the threads. This will prevent the plugs
sticking and corroding.
IMPORTANT. When reassembled and before starting the engine, ensure
that the sea cock is opened.
As the water pump is self-priming, there is no need to prime the
cooling system.
2. TO FLUSH OUT CYLINDER AND CYLINDFR HEAD
This operation is not necessary when a heat exchanger is fitted.
(a) Drain the cooling water from the cylinder and cylinder head.
(b) Disconnect the cooling water outlet hose, and remove the plug and
pipe fittings from the cylinder head.
(c) By inserting a piece uf wire through the various orifices in the
cylinder head, rake out any silt that has collected in the cooling
system. This should be carried out while flushing with clean
fresh water, preferably under pressure.
(d) It may be found necessary to flush the cooling system frequently when
operating the engine in water with high silt content.
(e) When replacing the plugs and pipe fittings, it is advisable to wrap
1~ turns of 'P.T.F.E.' tape around the threads.
This will
prevent the threads sticking and corroding.
3.
TO REMOVE WATER PUMP Fig. 8
(a)
(b)
(c)
(d)
(WPD-3 Generator)
Close the sea cock and remove the hoses from the pump.
Remove the pump cover (A) and gasket (B) and remove the impeller (C).
Inspect the water sealing washer (D), water slinger (E), seal in
the pump body (F) and the impeller for .damage, and replace if necessary.
It is not necessary to remove the cam plate from the inside of the
pump body.
!
I
I
H
D
B
E
FIG.8
A
R5
4.
TO REPLACE WATER PUMP Fig 8. WPO-3 Generator
a. Replace the water pump adaptor (G) and shim (H), if removed. Replace
the water sealing washer and water slinger, leaving a gap between them.
b. Carefully slide the water pump body onto the shaft, with the cam plate
screw uppermost and tighten up. Ensure that the water slinger is just
clear of the pump body.
c. Ensure that the pump shaft does not touch the pump cover when the w~ter
pump is replaced. If it does, extra shims must be added between the
adaptl'r plate and the pump body.
d. Replace the impeller on the shaft and refit gasket and cover plate. The
gasket must be positioned so that the cam plate is covered.
e. Replace the inlet and outlet hoses.
5.
TO REMOVE AND REPLACE WATER PUMP (OS MARINE ENGINE)
a. Close inlet and outlet cooling system sea-cocks
b. Remove hoses from pump.
c. Remove cover and gasket from water pump.
d. Carefully pull water pump (i()using with drive pin installed.
e. Pull impeller out of housing with drive pin installed.
f. Remove drive pin from impeller and insert pin in new impeller. Coat
with a thin coat of water pump grease.
g. Press impeller in housing, and housing on shaft with pin in slot of
shaft and housing hose connections facing upward.
h. Align mounting holes and secure gasket and cover.
i. Connect hose from inlet petcock to starboard connection on pump and
hose from side of cylinder to connection on port side of pump.
j. Open inlet and outlet seacocks.
k. Start engine and check for leaks.
SECTION S
TRANSMISSIONS
S37
SSR TRANSMISSION
GENERAL
The SSR Transmission is designed and built for marine use. The three position
hand lever
operates the gear to give ahead, neutral or astern action.
With a shift lever mounted in the normal slant position, the transmission is in
FORWARD gear when the shift lever is moved aft or in REVERSE when shift lever
is moved forward.
The reduction gear is 2: 1 and the propeller rotates counter-clockwise which is
the opposite direction to that of the engine. The sea water pump is mounted aft of
the high speed shaft of the reverse and reduction gear. No adjustments are required. The only maintenance is to check the lubricating oil level and change the
lubricating oil at time periods specified.
TO REMOVE TRANSMISSION
(a)
(b)
(c)
The transmission may be removed without removing the transmission oil
or the oil may be removed by inserting a 3/8 in. OD suction hose in the
dipstick filler opening.
Remove the bolts securing the drive shaft half coupling to the propeller
half coupling. Slide propeller shaft coupling back away' from drive shaft
coupling approximately 5 in.
Remove the four bolts securing the transmission housing to flywheel
housing adapter. Slide transmission out from engine and remove.
PREPARATION FOR DISASSEMBLY
As in any servicing operation, cleanliness is a must and all rules for good workmanship apply. Some of these rules are as follows:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
Use only clean fluid in any cleaning or washing of parts.
Use only clean oil for lubrication when pressing parts together.
Never use a hammer to drive ball bearings in place.
Never press a ball bearing so that the force is carried through the balls.
Use only properly sized wrenches in removing or securing nuts and capscrews.
Replace gaskets and "0" rings with new material.
Work on a clean bench and protect gear teeth and oil seal surfaces from
nicks and scratches.
DISASSEMBLY PROCEDURE
1.
2.
3.
4.
Remove 3 screws and pump assembly 54.
Remove woodruff key from input shaft.
Remove 4 screW8 from front face.
Remove front plate 1 containing bearing 16, snap ring 17. seal 18, bearing 23. Protect seal by tape over key slot in shaft.
5.
Lift out input shaft 15 which has pump shaft 22 screwed into rear end.
Bearing 20 and race 19 are now removable.
6.
Remove race 30, bearing 32, gear 26 containing bearing 28, and washer
25.
7.
Dri ve forward pin 48 into box, using flat end punch.
8.
Rotate arm 43 to rear, allowing dog 24 to move forward and off shaft.
Remove shoe 52.
9.
Remove nut 41, washer 40, O-ring 39, coupling 38, and key 37.
10. Support housing on front face. Press shaft 23 forward out of bearing 34.
538
11. Remove snap ring 33 from shaft. Remove washers 31, bearing 32, gear
27 containing bearing 28, and washer 25.
12. Knock out pin 44. Remove handle 43, slide shaft 42 into housing. Remove
detent plate 49, springs 47, and spring washers 46.
13. Drive pin 51 into shaft 9 with flat end punch.
14. Remove shaft 9 with associated gear 12, washers 13, bearing 14, pin 10,
and O-ring 11.
15. Remove bearings, seals, snap rings from respective housing and gears
as necessary. Press seals and bearings with suitable tools. Do not use
hammer.
16. Reassemble in reverse order, replacing seals, gaskets, and O-rings.
Be sure to protect input shaft seal by covering input shaft keyway with
tape or something similar.
S39
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SECTION T
GENERATOR SETS
T63
WPO-4 DC CONTROL CIRCUIT
GENERAl.: The Genset DC Control Circuit is operated from a 12 VDC battery and manual
of nature. The primary control switch selects the start, run and remote modes of
operation.
Engine Protection Circuits consist of a hi-water temperature switch (N.C.) and a
low oil pressure switch (N.O.) in series. A manual by pa5s switch for the oil
pressure switch is provided for circuit continuity during the start cycle. This is
labeled DEFEAT/OFF.
The entire control circuit is protected by a 10 ampere IIs10-blo" fuse. Only this
type of fuse should be used as when the fuel solenoid is first energized 18 amps
will be drawn. Once the fuel solenoid is fully engaged, the current draw is only
1. 2 amps.
The hi-water temperature lamp serves as a warning indicator only. This lamp is
energized by a N.O. switch which will close at a temperature of 205 0 F (96 0C).
It will reset at 160 0 F.
The automatic safety shutdown water temperature switch is set to open the fuel
solenoid·-circuit at a temperature of 215 0 F (102 0 C). The oil pressure switch will
open at 12PSI ± 5PSI. The two safety switches are connected in series with the
fuel solenoid.
BAT
HIGH
0
0
RUN
~HG
10 AMP
START
0
.SLO- BLO
TEMP
0
OFF
0
OFF
RUN
DEFEAT
T64
A regulated 1.5 to 6 amp trickle charge is provided directly to the battery cable
connection. The supply for the charger regulator circuit is an AC charge winding
in the AC generator. An indicator lamp (green) is connected to this winding at
the regulator and indicates that there is AC voltage supplied to the regulator.
An optional remote panel is provided and is connected to a terminal block provided
in the panel. This panel operates in parallel with the local panel switch controls.
TROUBLE SHOOTING
A. Generator Set Won't Crank
1. Supply Checks
(a) Check battery terminal voltage. It should be 12.0 to 12.6
volts DC normally, with a minimum of 11.5 volts at open circuit.
(b) Check for good terminal connections at both the battery and
generator set.
(c) Check for correct battery voltage at the generator set connections.
If inadequate wire size is used between the battery and generator
set, the resultant voltage drop in the cable will cause below minimum
voltage during the crank cycle.
2. Control Checks
(a) Check to see that throwing the control switch (S-l) into the
start position places 12 volts on the start solenoid coil
(K-1). If not, check 10 amp fuse (F-1). If fuse is good,
replace control switch.
(b) Check continuity to and through the start solenoid (K-1)
If start lead is open or shorted to ground, replace.
If solenoid coil is open, replace the solenoid and
starter unit.
B. Generator Set Cranks But Will Not Run
1. Check engine fuel system for fuel. Also check system to determine
if air might be leaking into the system.
2. Check the fuel solenoid circuit ~hich consists of the control switch,
oil pressure defeat switch, high water temperature safety switch,
and fuel solenoid. Set the control switch to run and the oil pressure
defeat switch to defeat. The solenoid should engage. If not,
check for 12 VDC at the component terminals to determine which is at
fault. Replace defective component.
3. If fuel solenoid is receiving voltage and checks good with continuity
test, but is still not pulling in, manually move plunger to determine
if plunger or linkage is bound in any way. If so, free the binding
part.
4. If the start solenoid engages using the procedures in step 2, check
for a short in or around the blocking diode (D-l) located on the
rear of the control switch. Replace diode if found bad.
5. If the 10 amp fuse blows upon en~rgization of the fuel solenoid,
check plunger on solenoid to be sure that it is able to bottom
within the solenoid. If not able to bottom, readjust position of
solenoid housing until satisfactory.
T65
C.
Engine Cranks, Runs, Then Stops
Check oil pressure switch and water temperature safety switches. The oil
pressure and water temperature switches should remain closed with normal engine
temperature. If these switches are defective, replace them. A direct reading
oil pressure gauge is mounted on the engine and the normal reading should
be approximately 60PSI while the engine is running.
D.
Cranking Battery Goes Dead
1.
2.
3.
Insert an ammeter between the battery and cable and the starter terminal from
which the cable was removed. CAUTION-DO NOT PUT CRANKING CURRENT THROUGH
AMMETER AS THIS MAY DAMAGE THE METER. The ammeter should give an indication
of 1-5 amps. If not, the charging regulator is probably defective and should
be replaced.
Check the fuse in the charge regulator. If blown, replace.
Check charge indicator lamp. If not lighted, check continuity through lamp.
Replace if defective. If the lamp is good, check AC voltage at pin 3 of
nylon plug under AC generator. A reading of up to 26 VAC is normal. If
the AC voltage is not present, the charge winding of the AC generator is
open and must be repaired or replaced.
__ __ ._-
T66
.
~----
:,
.
B-
B+
®
SMl
----I
1._. - ~___________
I __~
I
-~
I
~+-~
I
I
I
I
-~
1_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
@
L2
Fl
®
SS
Kl
S3
CD
®
~--
J
Ll
@)
@
CHARGE
TBl
.
J,-
':-1
DEFEAT
r- ---........,
--I
I RUN
I
~----4~----'
L-- - - --='.-"" - - - '
I
-<)
~
! Z
'---------t-(
-t-- - - - ,
I
I
-
I
. .(4 +-R~QlE_i_ J
a.--_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _...,j•
20973
-----
L-*SEE
-----------------
I
I
OFFI
I
--,----0 /
3 'START
""-----+---------~I
I'
I
NOTE
I
~~OTEPANEL
~
T67
WPD4 WIRING DIAGRAM
ITEM
1
2
3
4
5
6
12
13
15
16
17
SYMBOL
K-l
S-5
S-3
S-4
SM-l
TB-l
L-2
L-l
S-2
S-1
0-1
18
18A
20
F-2
F-l
*NOTE:
QTY
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
DESCRIPTION
Solenoid. Fuel
Switch, High water temperature N.O.
Switch, Water temperature N.C.
Switch, Oil pressure N.O.
Motor, Starter
Terminal block, 4 term.
Lamp, Red, Overtemperature
Lamp, G~een, Charging
S\litch, Oil pressure defeat
Switch, Control
Diode
Regulator, Battery charging
Fuse, Charger, 10 amp slo-blo
Fuse, 10 amp, slo-blo
Recommended wire size for remote panel wiring
0-15 ft
12 AWG stranded wire
15-25 ft
10 AWG stranded wire
IL-- -----,
OF REMOTE
REAR V I EW
~
2
3
4
PANEL
--~
WIRES
GEN.
TO
OUTPUT
WI NDINGS.
TO TERMINAL BLOCK
JI
PI
TI
JI PI
6 61---------~.. T I
~--------------·T2
Ei2
~------"
T322~----------.
T4 4 4 1 - - - - - - - - - -......
' - -_ _
B;.;,.jl 313~------------.
~_____X.. . ,I
SiS
~
7 II 7 t : : - - - - - - .
~
)(0
___________
L - -_ _ _ _ _ _ _ _....:.::";....:2~
I I J...----.
CRI
ROTOR
:
I I
.sHUNT
EI
.~~~+~.---J~I----~
-=- - LBRUSH~5~
F:~=12==:
__
CR2
TOLERANCES
(eXCEPT ... ,
NOTED)
J H. WESTERBEKE
SCALE
DECIMAL
±
~
ANGULAR
±
/'lONe
~
FRACTIONAL
/""\...0-
CORP.
MA. 02322
AVON.
±
WI RES
DRAWN&:~
APPROVED BY
WI RI NG
DIAGRAM .. yeS
GENERATOR CONTROL.
TITLE
DATE
l-cS-78
DRAWING NUMBER
23418
A/J.O.•
AC OUTPUT
~O/240 VAC
T69
GENERATOR SETS
GENERATOR OVERHAUL FOR WPD-4 AND WPD-3 SETS WITH YCB ALTERNATOR
ALTERNATOR BRUSHES
To inspect the brushes:
1. Remove cover plate on end bell.
2. Unfasten brush mounting screws. Be sure to note which screw matches
the brush assembly as the positive and negative use different screw
sizes.
3. Slide brushes out of their holders.
4. Replace if worn to 5/16 inch or less.
Use only the replacement brushes specified in the parts catalog as other
brushes may have entirely different electrical characteristics. Be
sure brushes slide freely in their holders, without any binding. If
collector rings are rough, smooth the ring surfaces with #240 sandpaper.
Do not use emery cloth.
LOSS OF RESIDUAL (Flashing the field)
If there is a loss of residual (voltage will not build up) it may be
necessary to flash the field.
1. Remove the bell cover plate.
2. Connect a 6 volt lantern battery with two leads.
3. Connect a voltmeter across the output load terminals.
4. Start unit with no load connected to alternator.
5. Momentarily touch positive brush with positive lead of lantern
while grounding the negative lead to generator frame. The po~itive
brush is on the left side when facing the end bell. Remove the
leads as soon as voltage starts to build up.
If it is necessary to flash the field frequently, the problem is most likely
a defective capacitor.
t
(
)
OUTSIDE VIEW OF
ENDBELL
(PLATE REMOVED)
BRUSHES
I
)
TOUCH .. +" LEAD TO
POSITIVE BRUSH
AND "- " LEAD TO
FRAME HOLD JUST
LONG ENOUGH UNTIL
VOLTAGE STARTS
TO BUILD UP
CAPACITOR
DIODES ----1...._ _- - /
6VOLTDRY
CELL BATTERY
FIGURE 6.
FIGURE 8.
FLASHING THE FIELD
END BELL (INSIDE VIEW)
no
ROTOR
ROLLER
\
NUT
"-
"
GE'.NF-.fU,TOR
-I HROUGH
STATOR
IAH
CONNECTOR -
GE I'He RA 1 uk
ADAPTER
HkLJSH
GUIDE
LOCATION
PIN
~;;/COVEe
CAPACITOR
DIODE:
D'~·
,
-MOUNTING
NUT
CAPACITOR
Two capacitors are located in the end bell. A defective capacitor will not allow
voltage to build up until the field is flashed. If the generator set is running
at a constant speed (no fluctuation) but voltage rises and falls, a capacitor may
also be defective, and should be replaced.
TESTING ROTOR WINDINGS
A. Winding resistances
Using an accurate ohmmeter touch meter leads to each collector ring.
Resistances for a WPD-4 should be between 26.2 and 32.0 ohms. For
a WPD-3 they should be between 21.0 and 25.6 ohms. Readings should be
taken at 680F (20 0C).
B. Testing for grounds
Connect an ohmmeter from each collector ring to rotor shaft (ground). If
rotor is servicable, there should be ~O reading on the meter.
If either of the above tests do not comply, replace the rotor.
TE.~;TING
Fon RESISTANCES
TESTING FOR GROUNDS
T71
DISMANTLING GENERATOR SET
In the event of a fault necessitating dismantling the generator, it is recommended
that it be returned to the manufacturer or to an authorized service agent. If
dismantling becomes unavoidable proceed as follows:
1. Disconnect battery cables.
2. Open control box lid, select cables entering control box from generator,
and disconnect cables at the box, carefully marking each cable and
terminal to ensure correct reconnection.
3. Remove the cover from the end bell.
4. Disconnect the leads between the control box and the battery charging
regulator at the regulator terminal.
5. Loosen and remove the 2 nuts from the rods extending from the rear mounts
which support the control box. At this point you will be able to set the
control box aside without disconnecting any other wiring.
6. Place a block of wood under the flywheel housing to support the engine
when generator is removed.
7. Unfasten and remove 4 long capscrews, lockwashers and nuts that fasten
end bell, stator and generator adapter together. Pull end bell straight
out from stator while unfastening connector plug between stator and end
bell.
NOTE: All parts inside of end bell including diodes, capacitors, bearing, wires and
connections can be tested at this time. Rotor, stator and collector rings can
also be thecked or tested at this time without further disassembly.
8. Pull stator straight out from alternator, being careful not to lay its
weight directly on the rotor.
9. Loosen internal allen screw 3 turns, while supporting the weight of the
rotor in the palm of the hand, strike the allen screw squarely and smartly
with a hammer. When loose, remove the allen screw and remove the rotor.
NOTE: Do not strike the rotor or stator with hammer as serious damage may occur.
1~.
Removing and replacing the engine-generator coupling.
a. Remove the two screws holding the tapered shaft.
b. Pull off the shaft.
c. Remove remaining 2 screws to take off the rubber coupling.
d. To remove the coupling adapter, insert two 3/8-24 screws in the
two threaded holes in the adapter, and screw them in evenly to jack
out the adapter.
e. Replacement of the coupling is the opposite procedure. Care must
be taken not to over torque the mounting screws. Distortion
of the coupling could result.
11. Alternator assembly is reverse of disassembly, following the torque
settings below.
a. Diodes (end bell) •...•.•.•••.••••••.••••.•.•••.•••.• 12-15 IN LB
FT LB
b. End Bell to Stator Thru Bolts (4) ••••••••••••••••••• 5-8
c. Rotor Thru Stud Nut (Allen Screw) ..•••.•••..••••.... 10-15 FT LB
T72
TESTING STATOR WINDINGS
Check stator wi ndi ngs by connecti ng an accut'ate ohmmeter between termi na 1s on
stator plug as shown in the illustration. A Wheatstone or Kelvin bridge is required
as resistances should be less than 1 ohm. the resistance on WPD-4 should be between
0.37 and 0.47 ohms. The resistance on a WPO-3 should be between 0.75 and
0.96 ohms. These values are for 60 Hertz units only.
SINGLE PHASE
lc~~.:
;'"
'v
\
.
.
MEASURE BETWEE:N
TI-T4 WITH T2-T3
JUMPE:RED TOGETHER.
VALUES ARE GIVEN
IN TABLE 2.
TESTING STATOR WINDINGS
TESTING EXCITER WINDINGS
EXCITOR WINDINGS
Check excitor windings by connecting an ohmmeter across Xl and X2 on stator plug.
The resistance on WPD-4 should be between 1.29 and 2.20 ohms. On a WPD-3 the
reading should be between 1.54 and 2.31 ohms. These values are for 60 Hertz units.
TROUBLESHOOTI NG
NATURE OF TROUBLE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Low AC output
Brushes not making
good contact with
slip rings.
Check brush tension
and slip rings for outof-round condition.
Overloaded.
Remove part of load.
T73
TROUBLESHOOTING (Continued)
NATURE OF TROUBLE
CAUSE
REMEDY
Windings and parts covered
with dirt and oi l.
Disassemble alternator
and clean.
Air intake is restricted
or incoming ai r too hot.
Take necessary steps to
allow for proper cooling.
Overloaderl.
Check load.
Alternator loose on base.
Tighten mounting bo lts .
Defective bearing.
Rep 1ace.
Brushes worn or not
seating properly.
Replace brushes when worn
to 5/16"
Alternator leads broken
or loose.
Replace broken 1eads or
tighten connection.
Open circuit, grounded
circuit or short circuit.
Test with Series test
lamp and repair or
replace defective parts.
Defective diodes(s).
Test and replace.
Capacitor defecti ve.
Repl ace.
Slip ring brush shunt
broken.
Check all slip ring brush
shunts with an ohmmeter
and repl ace broken brush
shunts.
Slip ring brushes not
contacting the slip
rings.
Replace slip ring brush
spring which may have come
off or broken; or replace
brushes wilich may have
become worn too much to
contact the slip rings.
Insulating film on
slip rings.
Clean slip rings with
stone or fine sandpaper
and blowout dust.
DO NOT USE EMERY CLOTH.
Revo 1vi ng field windings
shorted
Ins u1at -j 0 n 0 f field
coils broken.
Rewi nd or replace with new
rotor.
Revolving field windings
open
Original short circuit
may have burned a coil
or connection.
Test with an ohmmeter and
if open replace with a new
rotor.
AC stator winding
shorted
Insulation or coils
broken.
Rewi nd or replace stator
assembly
Alternator Overheats
Noisy Alternator
No Voltage Output
Incomplete circuit
between exciter and
slip rings.
Check Ali gnment.
T74
20.
WPO-3 GENERATOR
GENERAL: The generator normally requires little maintenance other than the regular
Maintenance Schedule operations, which whould never be neglected. The only generator
tests are simple to perform and do not require major disassembly, only resistance
tests. Partial disassembly, and removal of the generator is necessary in order to
make certain engine repairs.
The generator is mounted to the engine crankcase through the engine-to-generator
adapter plate. The rotor is directly connected by a stub shaft to the engine
flywheel. A ball bearing is housed in the generator frame, and supports the outboard (slip ring) end of the rotor. Because of its construction, the generator
can't be removed from the engine as a complete unit. It must be disaasembled.
The following "Electrical Trouble-Shooting" should be studied and the remedy carried
out prior to any disassembly to determine what the trouble may be.
21.
ELECTRICAL TROU3LE SHOOTING OF THE WPO-3 GENERATOR
A.
Generator Set Won't Crank
1. Check battery terminal voltage. It should be 12.0 to 12.6 volts
normally, with a minimum of 11.5 volts at open circuit. If the
voltage drops below 9 volts when the start switch is engaged, the battery
is probably run down and should be recharged or replaced.
2. Check battery terminal connections both at the battery and generator.
3. Put B+ directly on plus terminal of cranking motor. If engine
cranks, trouble is then either in starting solenoid contacts or the
starting solenoid coil or the start switch.
(a) Check to see that throwing start switch into the start position
places 12 volts on the start solenoid coil. If not replace control
switch.
(b) Check continuity of starting solenoid coil.
(c) Listen to hear if starting solenoid contacts close when voltage
is applied to coil. If coil checks open or if contacts do not
close upon application of voltage replace entire starter or start
solenoid.
(d) Check fuse, a blown fuse may indicate faulty fuel solenoid
adjustment
B. Generator Set Cranks But Will Not Run
1. Be sure engine is getting fuel and system has been bled of air.
2. Check to see if fuel solenoid is getting voltage. If not,check oil
pressure override switch (if provided) and check continuity in
control switch S-l.
3. Check to see if fuel solenoid is pulling in when energized. If solenoid
pulls in and blows fuse or vi~rates. Loosen clamp and adjust position
until vibration just stops. If solenoid doesn't pull in check for
continuity of coil. If open, replace fuel solenoid.
4. If fuel solenoid is getting voltage and shows continuity, but is not
pulling in, move plunger by hand to determine if solenoid is mechanically
bound in any way. If so check solenoid mounting bracket. A stroke of
more than 3/4 inch will weaken initial pull force of solenoid and it
will be slow and blow fuses. Likewise a spring tension greater than
required to just close the stop lever may cause solenoid to stall.
5. Check diode D-33, on sets with solenoid, but without auto-shutdown.
The diode holds the solenoid on while cranking.
T75
C.
D.
Engine Cranks and Runs, Then Stops
1. Check hold coil of fuel solenoid for continuity. If open, replace.
2. Check oil pressure cut-out switch and water temperature cut-out
switch (if this option is provided). The oil pressure switch should
close with high oil pressure and the water temperature switch should
be closed at normal engine temperature. If these switches are
defective, replace them
3. Check oil pressure gauge to be certain that oil pressure is normal
(approximately 60 psi). If oil pressure is abnormal, determine
cause or add oil if necessary.
Cranking Jattery Goes Dead
1. After generator is running, insert an ammeter between the B+ binding
post on the generator and the wire going to battery +. The + side
of the ammeter should be on the positive binding post terminal and the
minus side of the ammeter should be on the lead going to the battery +.
The ammeter hould indicate a charge of approximately 2 amperes up
scale on a good battery (open circuit potential voltage of 12.4 to
12.6 volts). CAUTION- Do not put cranking current thru ammeter as this
may blow it out.
2. If there is no battery charge, check the following components in
o)'der:
(a) Fuse F-1
(b) Fuse F-2
(c) Relay K-1 Coil and Relay K-1 contacts
(d) Diodes 0-1,0-2, 0-3.
(e) Next check to see if there is an AC output of approximately
115 volts AC at terminal L-1 and L-2. If not, then
trouble is in main generator.
3. If there is approximately 115 volts AC present at terminals L-1
and L-2, then check output of transformer of T-1 from terminals
8-11. This should read approximately 20 volts AC.
(a) If there is no output voltage at the transformer secondary,
check the voltage across the primary. If there is
primary voltage, then the transformer is probably burned
out and should be replaced.
(b) If there is no transformer primary voltage, then put a
short circuit aCt'OSs triac Q-1 being careful not to get
s~lOcks in the process (it is recommended you use a rubber
glove for this operation). If placing a short across Q-1
produces transformer primary voltage and a resultant battery
charge, the Q-1 is bad and should be replaced.
(c) If step b does not produce transformer voltage and a charging
current. then the trouble is either in R-2, C-2 or Oiac 0-4.
The Oiac can be checked by placing a short circuit across
it. If, resultant charging current then the Oiac 0-4
is bad and should be replaced.
(d) Next Check resistor R-2 and capacitor C-2 and, if defective,
replace these units.
T7G
E.
F.
G.
H.
Charge Lamp Will Not Go Out When Set Is Running
1. Charging ra~e may be set too low. Adjust resistor R-2 to produce
a two ampere charge on a good battery as in 4.1 above.
2. Check Capacitor C-4. This can be checked on the 100 or 1000 scale
of an ohmmeter. Take the + terminal of the ohmmeter to the +
terminal of the capacitor similarly with the negative terminals.
The resistance of the capacitor should start at practically a
short circuit and ;,uild up slowly to a very high value over
100,000 ohms as the capacitor charges up. If the capacitor indicates
a short it should be discarded and replaced and if the capacitor
indicates an open circuit (no gradual charging effect), then it
should be replaced. The capacitor may also be tested on a more
complicated capacitance bridge if one is available. Be sure to get
the polarity of this capacitor correct as electrolytic capacitors
will sometimes explode if the polarity is reversed.
3. Diode D-l may be open, which will keep the chargilg lamp and reduce
charge to a mere trickle. Check D-l and replace if necessary.
4. Charge lamp 1-1 is a 28 volt lamp (type 1920). Make sure this
has not been replaced with a 12 volt lamp as a 12 volt lamp will
not gc out completely in this circuit.
Charge Lamp Will Not Go On When Generator Set Is Stopped But Control
Switch Is In The Run Position
1. Check relay K-l to make sure that its coil is getting voltage and
its normally open contact is closing. Clean contacts if necessary
or replace relay if defective.
2. Check to see if resistor R-l is open. This should have a value
of 50 ohms.
3. Check to see if the Diode D-l is shorted.
4. Make sure c"arqing lamp 1-1 is not burned out.
No 115 Volt AC Gc~erator Output Or Intermittant Output
1. CReck field diou2s D-5 and D-6 to make sure that thej are not open
or shorted. Replace if defective.
2. Check continuity of both field and rotor windings. If these are
open, generator will have to be rewound or replaced.
3. Check to see if ~here are any s arts from either rotor or field to
generator case. If shorted, generator will have to be rewound or
replaced.
4. Check to see if brushes are worn.
5. Generator may have lost its magnetization from either a bad
overload or a bad mechanical shock. Tf the rotor and field diodes
all check O.K., then flashing thz field may be necessary to rejtore
magnetization. This can be done while engine is running by applying,
from an external source, 115 volts AC, 60 Hz to terminals L··1 an,!
L-2 of the generator for approximately two seconds (no longer). Be
careful not to get a shock during this operation as some arcing and
sparking will occur when the connection is made and broken. The
best procedure is to wire the connections in permanently and then
throw a switch on for two seconds and then throw it off and disconnect
the wires.
Generator Will Carry A Small Load But Engine Bogs Down At Full Load
1. Be certain that fuel solenoid is fully seated and positioned in mount
to give a full 3/4 inch stroke. If fuel solenoid is binding or limited
to a short stroke, the fuel shut-off lever may not be opened fully.
2. Bleed air from fuel system if necessary.
3. Check fuel pump
4. Check lift pump
5. Check for water in fuel.
6. Check compression.
T77
22.
DIODE CHECK
(a) Place (+) probe of meter on (+) of diode and (-) probe of meter on (-)
end of diode. A good diode will give a low resistance reading.
(b) Place (+) probe of meter on (-) end of diode and (-) probe of meter
(+) end of diode. A good diode will give a high resistance reading.
(c) If diode is open you will obtain an infinite resistance reading on
meter, by testing diode both ways as in (b) above.
(d) If diode is shorted, you will obtain a zero reading or meter by
testing diode both ways as in (b) above.
23. ROTOR AND SHUNT FIELD RESISTANCE TESTS
(a) Remove the two screws and clips securing generator end cover to
generator frame. Remove end cover.
(b) Remove the four brushes from their brush holders.
(c) Test the resistance between slip rings. Resistance should read
approximately 0.1 ohm.
(d) Test each lip ring to armature shaft. Test should read open.
(e) Connect (+) lead of ohmmeter to F+ lead of field and (-) lead of
ohmmeter to F- lead of field. (The F- and F+ leads are labeled and
connected to terminal studs on brush rig assembly). Field winding
should read approximately 4.S ohms.
24. WPD-3 GENERATOR OVERHAUL
A. Dismantling Generator
In the event of a fault necessitating dismantling the generator, it is recommended
that it be returned to the manufacturer or to an authorized service agent. If
dismantling becomes unavoidable, proceed as follows:
(1) Disconnect battery cable. Open control box lid.
(2) Select cables entering control box from generator and disconnect
cables at control box, carefully marking each cable and terminal to
ensure correct reconnection.
(3) Remove the two screws and cover clips securing generator end cover
to generator frame.
(4) Press down spring clip securing brush in its holder. Remove spring
clip and lift brush from holder. Repeat for the other 3 brushes.
(S) Examine brushes for freedom of movement in their holders.
Brushes found to be cracked, chipped, or worn below S/8 inch
must be replaced.
NOTE: When removing generator frame, disconnect the spring clips and brush leads
from their terminals and remove brushps from their holders.
(6) Place a block of wood under flywheel housing to support engine
when generator frame is removed.
(7) Remove the bolts securing the control box brackets and control
box to the generator fram.
(8) Remove nut, lockwasher and flatwasher from armature through stud.
Remove generator blower. If armature through stud unscrews from
armature, taper stub shaft, remove stud.
(9) Remove the bolts securing the adapter plate to bellhousing and
remove generator frame with adapter plate.
B. Rebuilding Generator
(1) Secure armature through stud to armature taper stub shaft.
(2) Slide armature on through stud and stub shaft.
(3) Position and install generator frame with attached adapter plate
over armature, and secure adapter plate to bellhousing.
(4) Press down spring clip securing brush in its holder. Remove
spring clip and lift brush from holder. Repeat for the other
three brushes.
(S) Install brushes in their holders and secure with spring clip.
Press spring of clip on top of brush and press down and in.
T78
NOTE:
Insure brush rides in center of its commutator ring.
(6) Reconnect each brush lead to its terminals and secure with washer
and nut.
(7) Reconnect cables from generator to control box terminals.
(8) Secure control box brackets and control box to generator frame.
(9) Lift decompression lever and rotate armature by turning armature
blower clockwise, checking that during rotation, there is no fouling
between armature and pole shoes.
(10) Replace and secure end cover to generator frame with the two screws and
cover eli ps.
(11) Reconnect battery cable.
WPD-3 WI RING DIAGRAM
SYMBOL
QUAT.
I
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
12
BP-I, 2
S
S-I
TB-I
1-1
DI,2,3
RI
FI, F2
TI
2
I
I
I
I
3
I
2
I
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
QI
D4
R2
C2
G-I
TB-2
C3
21
22
31
32
D5
D6
C4
KI
ITEM
DESCRIPTION
TERMINAL ASS'Y
STARTER MOTOR
SWITCH, CONTROL
TERMINAL BLOCK 7 TERM
LAMP, CHARGE, 24 VOLT
DIODE
RESISTOR, CHARGE BLEED
FUSE, 5A
TRANSFORMER, 120V to
12.6/12.6V
FUSEHOLDER
TRIAC
DIAC
REGISTOR, VARIABLE
CAPACITOR
GENERATOR
TERMINAL BLOCK, 3 TERM 30A
CAPACITOR, ARC .05, 600
WVDC SUPRESSING
DIODE
DIODE
CAPACITOR 250 UF 25WVDC
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OPTIONS
23
24
25
26
27
28
S-2
S-3 t S-4
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SWITCH, REMOTE CONTROL
SWITCH, OP OVERRI DE, NO
SOLENOID, FUEL
SWI TCH, OIL PRESSURE, NO
SWITCH, WATER TEMPERA TURE,
NC
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!>UPPLIED
WPD-3 GENERATOR WIRING DIAGRAM
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4~5
10
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19
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17
WPD- 3 Generator
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Generator End Cover
Receptacle
Blower Generator
Brush Reg. Assembly
(including brushes and springs)
End Bell Cover Clip
Generator Frame
Pale Shoe
Air Outlet Cover
Field Coil Set
(2 coils wired together)
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
1 7.
18.
19.
Armature through Stud Nut
Ball Bearing
Armature Assembly
(including brushes)
Armature thru Stud
Collector Ring Brush
Connector-Rectifiers Strip
Collector Ring Brush Spring
Rectifier
Taper Stub Shaft
Engine Flywheel
SECTION V
SERVICE BULLETINS
The following Bulletins contain supplementary and updated information about various components and service procedures which are important to the proper functioning of
your engine and its support systems.
You should familiarize yourself with the subjects and
make sure that you consult the appropriate Bulletin(s)
whenever your engine requires service or overhaul.
V2
WESTERBEKE
MARINE ENGINE PRODUCTS
SERVICE BULLETIN #20
MODEL:
SUBJECT:
ALL ENGINES
CONNECTING PRESSURE SENSING DEVICES TO OIL GALLERIES
Oil pressure sensing devices, such as senders and switches, must
never be connected directly to any oil gallery of an engine.
The reason
is simply that continued engine vibration causes fatigue of the fittings
used to make such a connection.
If these fittings fail, the engine
loses its oil pressure and very quickly siezes.
Such pressure sensing devices must be bulkhead mounted and connected
to the oil gallery using an appropriate grade of lubricating oil hose.
Any fittings used to connect the hose to the gallery must be of steel or
malleable iron.
Brass must not be used for this purpose.
6/15/69
#11967
J H WESTERBEKE CORP· AVON INDUSTRIAL PARK· AVON. MASS 02322 U.S.A.' TELEPHONE: 617 5B8·7700· TELEX 92·4444· CABLE: WESTCORP.
V3
WESTERBEKE
MARINE ENGINE PRODUCTS
SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER 43
MODEL:
DS and WPD 3 Generator Set
SUBJECT:
Raw Water Pump Lift Capacity
To protect your engine, it is imperative that the water pump be
located no more than 15 inches vertical height from the water
line.
No more than 24 inches total suction line length.
The thru hull fitting for the water intake must be located well
below the water line so pump is not subject to air intake when
boat heels.
Use 3/8 inch suction line with no bends.
If this type of installation is not practical, then use an
auxiliary electric motor driven water pump actuated by an oil
pressure switch to automatically provide water to the water
pump on the generator set.
1/2 amp.
An AC pump is available which draws
Remember that the generator trickle change rate of 2
amps must not be exceeded .
.I H WESTERBEKE CORp· AVON INDUSTRIAL PARK· AVON. MASS 02322 USA· TELEPHONE
PN 17254
617 5B8·7700· TELEX 92·4444· CABLE WESTCORP
3/28/75
V4
WESTERBEKE
MAP l\.;(
_.......
-
I
"~l ;1/\.lf
I
'to'.
l[
1[
'l
.. <;
~J
SERVICE BULLETIN *60
SUBJECT :
Engine R.P.M.
MODEL:
os
The OS engine is very sensitive to correct engine operating R.P.M. It
is very important that the engine be wheeled properly to allow it to run
up to 3000
R.P.M. while under load. Failure to do this will cause
overloading, black smoke, poor performance, early engine failure, and will
void the warranty.
Some typical propellers used on the OS engine are:
11 x 7, two blade, left hand
10 x
a, two blade, left hand
Note the above propeller selection are approximate only and different hulls
may require different sizes.
The important issue is to be sure the engine can run at
load.
8/73
Revision
3000
RPM under
PIN 15109
V5
WESTERBEKE
MARINE ENGINE PROOUCTS
SERVICE BULLETIN #61
SUBJECT:
Removal of Sacrifical Plug(Westerbeke PIN 17355)
MODEL:
WPD-3 and OS
It has been reported that on some occasions the cylinder head zinc plug
#17355 has been removed in install an electrical device. This will cause
corrosion in the head and shorten the life of the cylinder head and engine.
such action will also void the warranty on those parts affected.
If you wish to install and electrical device in the cylinder head, do so
by removing part number 17354 as shown on Page 206 of the WPD-3 and OS
Parts List, (P/N 12137 dated July 1,1973).
8/73
J
H WF:iT,RBEKE CORP· AVON INDUSTRIAL PARK
PIN 16030
AVON. MASS 02322 USA· TELEPHONE
617 ",887700, TELEX 924444' CABU' W,STCORP
V6
WESTERBEKE
MARINE ENGINE
PROOUCTS
SERVICE BULLETIN #h9
Subject:
Exhaust system failures
Models:
All marine generators and marine engines
When engine sea water is fed into an exhaust system so that the full
stream strikes a surface, erosion may cause premature failures.
Proper design of either a water jacketed or a water injected ("wet")
exhaust system to prevent this problem requires that the sea water
inlet be positioned so that the entering stream of sea water does not
strike a surface directly. Also, the velocity of the entering sea
water stream should be as low as possible which is achieved by having
inlet fittings as big in diameter as possible.
In addition to the above design considerations, it is usually advantageous to divide the sea water flow at the point of entry to the
exhaust system so that only a portion of it enters the exhaust system.
The remainder is normally piped directly over the side. The proper
proportion of the sea water flow to pass through the exhaust system
can only be determined by trial and error. The goal is to prevent
excessive exhaust temperatures with the least amount of sea water.
PN 19149
May 6, 1974
V7
WESTERBEKE
)
MARINE ENGINE PRODUCTS
/
SERVICE BULLETIN #72
MODELS:
ALL
SUBJECT:
NON-INTERCHANGEABILITY BETWEEN MANUFACTURERS OF GAUGES AND SENDERS
In recent years we have purchased gauges and senders from four different
manufacturers.
In no case may the gauge of one manufacturer be used with the sender of another
manufacturer. In some cases the wiring of either or both the gauge and the
sender varies by manufacturer.
Thus it becomes important, when ordering a replacement gauge or ordering a
replacement sender, to order a matched set or to know conclusively who the
manufacturer is.
Ammeters are electrically interchangeable.
STEWART -WARNER von
FARIA
2" DIA CASE
2 3/8 11 01 A CASE 211 DIA CASE
NOVOX
211 DIA CASE
Ammeter
11581
11931
16550
19165
Oil pressure gauge
11544
11914
16548
19166
Oil pressure sender
11542
11916
16551
19167
Water temp. gauge
11545
11913
16549
19168
Water temp. sender
11543
11915
16552
19169
16023
and
S8 #44
16023
and
S8 #44
Adapter ring to in- 16023
s ta 11 211 di a gauge ; n and
SB #44
2 3/8 11 dia panel
cut-out
GND
Wiring diagram
~
SND~B+
LAMP
+
"r",-""-,,. .
B+
AMP-
SND
LAMP +
SND~B+
~SND
GND
Also see
LAMP+
GND
B+
SB #36
GND
5/29/74
J H WESTERBEKE CORP, AVON INDUSTRIAL PARK, AVON, MASS 02322 USA, TELEPHONE
PN19190
617 588 7700 ' TELEX 92·4444' CABLE. WESTCORP
V8
WESTERBEKE
MARINE ENGINE PRODUCTS
SERVICE BULLETIN DBl
REISSIJErl:
October 3, 1975
SUBJECT:
Hydro-Hush Muffler Installation
MnOEL:
All
OISTR:
All
The diagram on the reverse side shows a proper installation of the HydroHush stainless steel muffler.
Make sure installation is such that water cannot enter enqine at any
anqle of heel or pitch.
Muffler remains approximately twenty-five percent full of water after
enqine is shut down with maximum thirty-three inch lift used.
Muffler must be installed as close to fore-aft centerline of boat as
possible.
There must be an unblocked vent to atmosphere at the high point of the
sea wat~r circuit (where it passes above the waterline) to break the
vaccuum which would encourage siphoning through the sea water circuit
uoon engine shutdown. Such siphoninq would fill the engine with sea
water throuqh its exhaust. Pipe the air vent with approximately 3/16
copoer tubing to discourage water flow through it when the engine is
running. If water flows throuqh the air vent when the engine is running,
nipe it over the side or into the transon exhaust outlet. But be sure
it will drain upon engine shutdown and function properly as a siphon break
by venting the sea water circuit to atmosphere.
Use as few riqht anqle fittings as possible.
to hack pressure, check your enaine manual.
If there is any Question as
Exhaust line diameters indicated are minimums. Refer to engine manual for
specifics reqardina run lenqths and sizes areater than indicated.
The installation tins aiven are to be used as a guide only. We cannot
be responsible in any way for muffler installation. We presume basic
understanding of good marine practice on the part of the installer.
CAUTION:
As the sea water pump fills the exhaust system with s~u
water during cranking, be sure to close the intake seacock
whenever total cranking between engine starts exceeds
approximately 30 seconds. Open seacock immediately after
engine starts.
I H Wf :iTfRfltKE CO[,P . AVON INDliSTRIAI PARK· AVON. MASS 0;'.122 LJ S II . TElEPHONE
PN 19468
10/3/75
617 5887700
TELEX 92·4444· CABLE WESTCORP
Page 1/2
V9
HYDRO-HUSH BELOW ENGI NE
AIR VENT . •
PN.13174
HyDRO=Hu5H
*
AIR VENT
SEE WATER PUt.lP
r
~~~""-
-r;;
A
EXHAUST
OUTLET.
:=:--=-.-=:~-:- ;
lfil
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r - " '----?--
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Drwg 15294
( \. ,(1\~r(ho#-'rl
'I
0,\\,
\\"~\"~\'o . ~~:
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PN 13174
HYDRO-HUSH
'*
AIR VENT ~U5T SE INS1'ALLED A1' HIGHES1'
POINT AND AIIovE WATER LINE
1N
~EA
WATER CIRCUIT TO BREAK VACUUM
AFTER ENGI NE SHUT DOWN, PREVENTING
SIPHONING OF' SEA WATER INTO ENGINE.
HYDRO-HUSH ABOVE ENGI NE .
VIO
WESTERBEKE
MARINE ENGINE PRODUCTS
SERVICE BULLETIN #82
ISSUED:
May 7, 1975
SUBJECT:
Battery Recommendations
l.10DEL:
All
DISTR:
Owners, Distributors, Dealers,
!,~anufacturers
BATTERY RECOMlvlliNDATIONS
I!ODEL
BATTERY AMPERE HOURS
VOLTAGE
Vire, 7 Horsepower, gasoline
40-60
12 V.D.C.
DS, 5 Horsepower, diesel
60-90
12 V.D.C.
Pi1ot-10, 10 Horsepower, diesel
90-125
12 V.D.C.
Four-60, 15 Horsepower, diesel
90-125
12 V.D.C.
Pilot-20, 20 Horsepower, diesel
90-125
12 V.D.C.
Four-91, 25 Horsepower, diesel
125-150
12 V.D.C.
125, 25 Horsepower, diesel
125-150
12 V.D.C.
Four-107, 37 Horsepower, diesel
125-150
12 V.D.C.
WPDS-15, 15 Kilowatt, diesel
125-150
12 V.D.C.
Four-154, 53 Horsepower, diesel
150-170
12 V.D.C.
\~DS-20,
150-170
12 V. D. C.
Four-230, 75 Horsepower, diesel
170-200
12 V.D.C.
Performer-Six, 115 Horsepower, diesel
200 minimum
12 V.D.C.
20 Kilowatt, diesel
The ampere hour range shown is minimum.
J H WESTER8E"KE CORP· AVON INDUSTRIAL PARK
PN 20442
5/7 /75
There is no real maximum.
AVON. MASS ()2322 USA
TELEPYONE
tl7 S88 77()O· TELEX 924444· CABLE
WESTCORP
VII
WESTERBEKE
MARINE ENGINE PRODUCTS
SERVICE BULLETIN 92
ISSUED:
April 28, 1976
SUBJECT:
Troubleshooting Water Temperature and Oil Pressure Gauges
MODELS :
All
DISTR:
Distributors, Shipments
Given a presumably faulty gauge indication with the instrument panel
energized, the first step is to check for 12 VDC between the ig~ (8+) and
neg. (B-) terminals of the gauge.
Assuming there is 12 volts as required, leave the instrument panel energized
and perform the following steps:
1.
Disconnect the sender wire at the gauge and see if the gauge
reads zero, the normal reading for this situation.
2.
Connect the sender terminal at the gauge to ground and see
if the gauge reads full scale, the normal reading for this
s ituati on.
If both of the above gague tests are positive the gauge is undoubtedly OK
and the problem lies either with the conductor from the sender to the gauge
or with the sender.
If either of the above gauge tests is negative, the gauge is probably
defective and should be replaced.
Assuming the gauge is OK, proceed as follows. Check the conductor from the
sender to the sender terminal at the gauge for continuity.
Check that the engine block is connected to ground. Some starters have
isolated ground terminals and if the battery is connected to the starter
(both plus and minus) the ground side will not necessarily be connected to
the block.
If the sender to gauge conductor is OK and the engine block is grounded,
the sender is probably defective and should be replaced.
PIN 21616
,<
\\ e c, IE PHl KE cORp· AVON INDUSTRIAL PARK· AVON, MASS 02322 USA· TELEPHONE
4/28/76
617 588- 7700· TELEX 92-4444 . CABLE WESTCORP
VI2
SERVICE BULLETIN
DATE:
February 8, 1980
MODEL:
OS5, OS7, W-7, WPD3, WP04
BULLETIN NUMBER: 105
SUBJECT: Cyl inder Head Nut Torque
The torque specification for the cylinder head nuts has been changed
as follows:
Old Torque __Specification
Cylinder Head Nut
20 1b
ft
2.77 kg
m
New Torgue Specification
Cylinder Head Nut
21 1b ft
2.91 kg
m
Cylinder Head/Rocker
Support Nut
24 1b
3.32 kg
m
ft
Mark this change in all technical manuals for the above listed
engine models.
Torque cylinder head nuts cold, check valve rocker
clearance after torquing cylinder head nuts and adjust as needed.
J. H. WESTERBEKE CORP.
AVON INDUSTRIAL PARK, AVON, MASS. 02322· (617) 588-7700
CA8LE: WESTCORP, AVON· TELEX: 92 -4444
PIN: 24606
SERVICE BULLETIN
DATE:
February 8, 1980
MODEL:
055, 057, W-7
BULLETIN NUMBER: 106
SUBJECT: Sea Water Pump Weep Hole
The transmission on the above model engine has mounted on it, above
the output shaft, a sea water pump which supplies sea water to the engine
or heat exchanger, for cooling purposes.
When performing daily engine checks, owners should pay particular
attention to the weep holes just behind the sea water pump, which are visible
on either side of the transmission.
If there is any indication of sea water
coming out of these weep holes, owners must remove the sea water pump and
replace the seal (P.N. 16663) between the pump and the weep holes.
Ensure that these weep holes are not obstructed in any way by rust
or scale build-up.
Failure to replace the seal when leakage is found at these weep holes
will eventually lead to sea water entering the transmission,
Note:
Leakage from these weep holes can also be caused by a
blockage in the sea water flow through the engine or
heat exchanger cooling circuit.
Please see diagram on overleaf.
J. H. WESTERBEKE CORP.
AVON INDUSTRIAL PARK, AVON, MASS. 02322, (617) 588-7700
CA8LE: WESTCORP, AVON· TELEX: 92-4444
PIN:
24607
V13
V14
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