Engineered (Glue/Staple) Installation

Engineered (Glue/Staple) Installation
Floors
Allwood Floors
5/8" & 9/16" Floating Floors
For Staple-Down or Glue-Down Installations
Installer/Owner Responsibility
Beautiful hardwood floors are a product of nature and therefore, not perfect. Our wood floors are manufactured in
accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may
be of a manufacturing or natural type.
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The installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection of product quality. This inspection of all flooring
should be done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for color, finish and quality before installing
it. If material is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately.
Prior to installation of any hardwood-flooring product, the installer must determine that the job-site
environment and the sub-surfaces involved meet or exceed all applicable standards and
recommendations of the construction and materials industries. These instructions recommend that the
construction and subfloor be dry, stiff and flat. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for job failure
resulting from or associated with sub-surface or job-site environment deficiencies.
Prior to installation, the installer/owner has final inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and
factory finish. The installer must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces with defects,
whatever the cause.
Use of stain, filler or putty stick for defect correction during installation should be accepted as normal
procedure.
When flooring is ordered, 5% must be added to the actual square footage needed for cutting and grading
allowance.
Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade, manufacture or factory finish, the installer should not
use the piece.
Use of appropriate products for correcting subfloor voids should be accepted as a normal industry
practice.
TOOLS & ACCESSORIES NEEDED
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Broom
Electric power saw
Recommended Adhesive & Adhesive Remover
Chalk line & chalk
3M 2090 Blue Mask Tape
Recommended Trowel
Tape Measure
Moisture meter (wood, concrete or both)
Recommended Hardwood Flooring Cleaner
Hand saw
Hammer
PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
Job Site Inspection
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The building should be closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. All concrete, masonry,
framing members, drywall, paint and other "wet" work should be thoroughly dry.
The wall coverings should be in place and the painting completed except for the final coat on the base
molding. When possible, delay installation of base molding until flooring installation is complete.
Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage directing water away from the building. All
gutters and downspouts should be in place.
Engineered flooring may be installed on, above or below grade level. Do not install in full bathrooms.
Basements and crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated.
Crawl space must be a minimum of 24" (600 mm) from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover
of 6-8 mil black polyethylene film is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped.
The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5% of the crawl space square
footage. These vents should be properly located to foster cross ventilation.
Subfloor must be checked for moisture content using the appropriate testing method.
Permanent air conditioning and heating systems should be in place and operational. The installation site
should have a consistent room temperature of 60-75° F and humidity of 35-55% for 14 days prior, during
and until occupied, to allow for proper acclimation.
Storage & Handling
Handle and unload with care. Store in a dry place being sure to provide at least a four-inch air space under
cartons, which are stored upon "on-grade" concrete floors. Flooring should not be delivered until the building has
been closed in with windows and doors in place and until cement work, plastering and all other "wet" work is
completed and dry. Concrete should be at least 60 days old. Engineered flooring should be stored in the
environment in which it is expected to perform. Air conditioning/heating systems should be in place and in
operation at least 14 days prior, during and after installation of the flooring. Check adhesive label for storage
limitations.
Installation Applications
Staple-Down Installations
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All ¼" thick products may be installed with a Stanley-Bostitch LHF Stapler or the Senco SLS20HF
regardless of width or number of plies with appropriate adapters or adjustments.
All 3/8" thick, 3-ply and 7-ply products, 3" wide or less may be installed with a Stanley-Bostitch LHF
Stapler or the Senco SLS20HF with appropriate adapters or adjustments.
All 3/8" thick, 5-ply products, 3" wide or less must be installed with a Senco SLS20HF with appropriate
adapters or adjustments. DO NOT install with a Stanley-Bostitch LHF Stapler.
Do not install 3/8" or 1/2" products wider than 3" with a staple down installation system.
1/2" thick products may require an adapter. Contact your distributor/retailer for specific requirements.
Make sure to properly adjust the Senco gun for proper product thickness.
Make sure to use the proper adapter for the Stanley-Bostitch LHF Stapler to adjust for the proper product
thickness.
Use minimum 2" glue-coated staples recommended by the stapler manufacturer.
INSTALLATION USING PNEUMATIC STAPLING MACHINES
NOTE: MINOR SQUEAKING OF STAPLED FLOORS IS NOT ABNORMAL DUE TO STRUCTURAL MOVEMENT
CAUSED BY CHANGES IN ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS. FOLLOWING THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN
MINIMIZE THESE FACTORS BUT OFFER NO GUARANTEE THAT THE FLOOR WILL NOT SQUEAK.
General information for stapled applications:
Improper pressure settings and failure to use proper adapters can cause severe damage to the flooring. The
correct adapter and air pressure setting will properly set the staple in the nail pocket. Low air pressures may fail to
properly set the staple and damage adjoining boards. Air pressures set too high may cause damage to the tongue,
preventing installation of adjoining boards and cause blisters on the face of the flooring. Make certain that the
compressor has a regulator in-line with the air hose for proper adjustment. Set pressure at 70 PSI to begin with
and adjust until proper staple setting occurs. USE A STAPLER DESIGNED FOR THE THICKNESS OF THE
PRODUCT BEING INSTALLED. Any water damaged, swollen or delaminated subflooring materials will not hold
staples and must be repaired or replaced.
GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
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Use recommended trowel to get required spread rate and ridging height.
Use recommended adhesive.
SUBFLOOR REQUIREMENTS
SUBFLOORS MUST BE:
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CLEAN - Scrape, broom clean, and smooth. Free of wax, paint, oil, sealers, adhesives, curing agents
and other debris.
LEVEL/FLAT - Within 3/16" in 10' and/or 1/8" in 6'. Sand high areas or joints. If the floor is to be glued
down, fill low areas (no more than 1/8" at a time) with a cementitous leveling compound or milk additive
latex patch of 3,000-PSI minimum compressive strength. Follow the instructions of the leveling
compound manufacturer. Leveling compounds must be tested for moisture to ensure they are properly
cured and within the manufacturer's specified requirements for proper installation. When stapling the floor
down, flatten low spots with layers of 15# builders felt, plywood or shims.
STRUCTURALLY SOUND - Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak. Replace any water-damaged,
swollen or delaminated subflooring or underlayments. Avoid subfloor with excessive vertical movement
unless they have been properly stiffened prior to the installation of the wood flooring.
DRY - Check moisture content of the subfloor with a reliable moisture meter.
RECOMMENDED SUBFLOOR SURFACES
STAPLE-DOWN OR GLUE-DOWN:
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PREFERRED:
3/4" (19 mm) CDX grade plywood
3/4" (23/32") OSB PS2 rated underlayment
MINIMUM: 5/8" CDX grade plywood
Existing solid wood flooring
Vinyl, resilient tile, cork flooring
3/4" chip, waferboard, particleboard
GLUE-DOWN ONLY:
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Concrete slabs
Acoustic concrete
Ceramic, terrazzo, slate and marble
Metal
Cork (Acoustic)
CONCRETE SLABS
Glue-Down
Engineered flooring can be glued directly to concrete. Do not use a concrete sealer nor install over one. Surface
preparation using mechanical methods such as sanding or scouring with open coat paper or a titanium disk is
preferred. The concrete must be of high compressive strength. All concrete subfloors should be tested for
moisture content. Visual checks are not reliable. Acceptable test methods for subfloor moisture content include:
NOTE: Test several areas, especially near exterior walls and walls containing plumbing.
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A 3% Phenolphthalein in Anhydrous alcohol solution. Chip the concrete at least ¼" deep (do not apply
directly to the concrete surface) and apply several drops of the solution to the chipped area. If any color
change occurs, further testing is required.
Calcium Chloride test. The maximum moisture transfer must not exceed 3 lbs./1000 square feet with this
test.
A "DRY" SLAB, AS DEFINED BY THESE TESTS CAN BE WET AT OTHER TIMES OF THE YEAR. THESE
TESTS DO NOT GUARANTEE A DRY SLAB. ALL CONCRETE SLABS SHOULD HAVE A MINIMUM OF 6 MIL
POLY FILM MOISTURE BARRIER BETWEEN THE GROUND AND THE CONCRETE.
Moisture Barrier System: If moisture is present, inexpensive sheet vinyl or "slip-sheet" (PVC) may be installed. Use
a premium grade, alkaline resistant adhesive and a full spread application system to properly bond the vinyl to the
subfloor. Follow the sheet vinyl manufacturer instructions for installation procedures. A patch test may be required
as an adhesion test. Install several small areas (3' x 3') and allow the vinyl to set for 72 hours. Remove the vinyl; if
the backing remains attached to the concrete, the subfloor should be acceptable for sheet vinyl installation. If you
have any questions regarding installation or the handling of moisture problems, please contact the
distributor/retailer from whom the goods were purchased.
Staple-Down
Install a suitable moisture barrier followed by a plywood subfloor with a minimum thickness of ½". The panel must
be properly attached to the subfloor using a minimum of one fastener per square foot and more if necessary. Use
pneumatic or powder actuated fasteners. Do not hand nail the subfloor with concrete nails.
ACOUSTIC CONCRETE
Glue-Down Only
Acoustic concrete normally contains large quantities of gypsum that may inhibit the adhesive's capability to
properly bond. Acoustic concrete must be primed with the concrete manufacturers recommended primer/surface
hardener.
WOOD SUBFLOORS & WOOD STRUCTURAL PANEL SUBFLOORS
Plywood: Must be APA grade rated sheathing or CDX minimum.
Oriented Strand Board (OSB): Must be PS2 rated installed sealed side down.
Particleboard: Must be a minimum 40-LB density, stamped underlayment grade and ¾" thick.
Staple-Down or Glue-Down
Make sure existing floor or subfloor is dry and well nailed or screwed down every 6" along each joist to avoid
squeaking or popping before the floor is installed. The wood subfloor must not exceed 13% moisture content.
Measure moisture content of both subfloor and wood flooring to determine proper moisture content with a reliable
wood moisture meter. The difference between the moisture content of the wood subfloor and the wood flooring
must not exceed 4%.
Optimum performance of hardwood floor covering products occurs when there is no horizontal or vertical
movement of the subfloor. The MINIMUM subfloor recommendations described above are for 16" O/C joist
spacing. The thicker, PREFERRED subfloor recommendations described above will allow 19.2" joist spacing if the
joist manufacturer's recommended span is not exceeded. Spacing in excess of 19.2" O/C may not offer optimum
results. Install flooring perpendicular to the floor joists when possible. Installations should not be made parallel to
the floor joists or on joist spacing that exceeds 19.2" O/C unless the subfloor has been properly stiffened.
Stiffening may require the addition of a second layer of subflooring material to bring the overall thickness to at least
1-1/8".
All underlayment panels should be spaced 1/8" apart to insure adequate expansion space. This can be achieved
by using a circular saw set at the depth of the underlayment and cutting around the perimeter of the panel. T&G
panels normally have built in expansion; DO NOT cut around the perimeter of T&G panels. Do not install over
existing glue-down wood floors. Do not install over nailed floors that exceed 3-¼" in width. Wide width floors must
be overlaid with plywood. When installing over existing wood floors parallel with the flooring, it may be necessary
to install an additional ¼" layer of plywood to stabilize the flooring or install the wood floor at right angles.
Applicable standards and recommendations of the construction and materials industries must be met or exceeded.
RESILIENT TILE, RESILIENT SHEET VINYL & CORK FLOORING
Staple-Down
Make sure the vinyl or tile is full spread adhesive and well bonded to the subfloor. Do not install over more than
one layer, which does not exceed 1/8" in thickness over suitable subfloor. If vinyl or tiles are loose, crumbled, or in
poor condition, install an underlayment directly over the sheet vinyl (linoleum) or vinyl tiles.
CAUTION: Some older type tiles become brittle with age. Ascertain that the staple will penetrate these materials
and that breakage does not occur. Remove if necessary.
Glue-Down
If the tiles or sheet goods are well bonded, clean the surface thoroughly with a good quality household detergent.
De-gloss flooring as necessary to create a good adhesive bond using an abrasive pad. If vinyl appears to have a
coating of wax or other maintenance materials, it must be removed with the appropriate floor stripper. Allow ample
drying time. (Note: Do not sand any resilient products for they may contain asbestos fibers, which may be harmful.)
Do not install over floors that exceed two layers. Cork floors must have all sealers and surface treatments removed
before installation begins.
CERAMIC, TERRAZZO, SLATE & MARBLE
Glue-Down Only
All grout joints and broken corners that exceed 3/16" must be filled with a cementitous leveling compound mixed
with Latex additive. The surface should be cleaned and abraded to create a good bonding surface for the
adhesive. Loose tiles must be re-adhered to the subfloor or filled as above. Remove all sealers and surface
treatments.
CORK (ACOUSTIC)
Glue-Down Only
Engineered flooring can be glued directly over full-spread, permanently bonded acoustic cork. The cork should
have a density of no less than 11.4 lb./cubic foot and no more than 13 lb./cubic foot. The cork, in general, should
be pure cork combined with a polyurethane binder. Cork thickness is to be no more than ¼" (6 mm). Install cork in
accordance with manufacturer's recommendations.
SUBFLOORS WITH RADIANT HEAT
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System must be operational and heated for at least 7 days prior to beginning installation.
Turn off heat and let subfloor cool down to room temperature 3-4 hours prior to starting the job.
Radiant heated floors must be temperature controlled or engineered for the R-rating of the floor-covering
product installed upon them. BEFORE installation begins, ascertain that the system is designed and
controlled for wood flooring. Failure to do so may cause excessive heat damage and shrinkage. Install
floor per the application instructions (staple or glue-down).
CAUTION: Refer to radiant heat system manufacturer's precautions for nail down installation. Beware of
stapling through radiant tubing or mesh.
After installation, turn system back on immediately to its normal room temperature setting. The subfloor
surface must not exceed 85° F throughout the life of the floor.
DOORWAY AND WALL PREPARATION
Undercut door casings. Remove any existing base, shoe mold or doorway thresholds. These items can be
replaced after installation. All door casings should be notched out or undercut to avoid difficult scribe cuts.
GENERAL INSTALLATION TIPS
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Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
Be attentive to staggering the ends of boards in adjacent rows at least 6" when possible. This will help
ensure a more favorable overall appearance of the floor.
STEP 1: ESTABLISH A STARTING POINT
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Installation parallel to the longest wall is recommended for best visual effects, however, the floor should
be installed perpendicular to the flooring joists unless subfloor has been reinforced to reduce subfloor
sagging. Find appropriate subfloor from "Subfloor Type" section in this instruction manual
Add 3/8" to the widest width of the product being installed to allow for ¼" expansion and the width of the
tongue. For random and alternate width products, use the widest plank for the first row.
When possible, always begin layout or installation from an outside wall, as these are normally the
straightest.
In at least two places 12"-16" from the corner, measure out equal distance from the starting wall.
STAPLE-DOWN INSTALLATION
NOTE: Installation of a 6-mil poly vapor barrier between the subfloor and the wood flooring can reduce expansion
and contraction of flooring.
STEP 2: INSTALLING FIRST & SECOND ROWS
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Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. Align tongue of first row on chalk line.
The groove should be facing the starting wall. Pre-drill ½" from back (groove) edge, 1-2" from each end,
and at 6" intervals when possible. Fasten using 4 or 6d finishing nails. Countersink the nails.
Pre-drill and blind-nail at a 45° angle through the tongue of the first row every 3-4" and 1-2" from the ends.
Countersink nails to ensure flush engagement of groove with the following row(s). Continue blind nailing
using this method with following rows until stapler can be used.
End-joints of adjacent rows should be staggered a minimum of 6" when possible to ensure a more
favorable overall appearance.
Beginning rows may be blind nailed where clearance allows using a pneumatic brad nailer with 2" brads.
STEP 3: INSTALLING THE FLOOR
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Always use the recommended stapler for the specific product being installed (see "Installation
Applications"). Use minimum 2" glue-coated staples recommended by the stapler manufacturer spaced
at 3-4" intervals and 1-2" from the ends.
IMPORTANT NOTE: All 3/8" products over 3" wide are recommended for glue-down installation only.
Set compressor at 70 PSI. If tongue damage occurs, lower air pressure.
The last 1-2 rows will need to be face-nailed where clearance does not permit blind nailing with stapler or
brad nailer. Pre-drill and face-nail on the tongue side following the nailing pattern used for the first row.
GLUE-DOWN INSTALLATION
NOTE: When installing UNFINISHED engineered flooring, allow a minimum of 72 hours adhesive curing time
before applying seals, stains and finishes to unfinished flooring. Test the moisture content of the wood in
accordance with the stain/finish manufacturer's recommendations.
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Maximum Adhesive Working Times
Urethane Adhesive - 60 minutes (Always read container label before proceeding)
Polymeric Resin Adhesive - 90 minutes (Always read container label before proceeding)
Open times and curing times of ALL adhesives vary dependant upon subfloor porosity, air movement,
humidity and room temperature. Urethane adhesive has a shortened work time in high humidity
environments whereas polymeric resin adhesive working time will be lengthened. In areas of low humidity,
open time will be longer with urethanes and shorter with polymeric resins. Adjust the amount of adhesive
spread accordingly. The adhesive should not be applied if subfloor or room temperature is below 65° F
(20° C).
Spread sufficient amounts of recommended adhesive with the recommended trowel in an area that can
be covered in 60-90 minutes. Polymeric resin adhesives should be rolled every two hours and at the end
of the day. If a urethane adhesive is to be rolled, do not do so until the adhesive has cured for two hours.
NOTE: Avoid installing from the surface of the flooring. If necessary distribute weight using a kneeler board.
STEP 2: SPREAD THE ADHESIVE
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Hold trowel at a minimum 45° angle firmly against the subfloor to obtain a 50-60 sq. ft. per gallon spread
rate. The trowel will leave ridges of adhesive and very little adhesive between the ridges. This will allow
you to still see the chalk lines between the ridges and provide the recommended spread rate. If the
adhesive skins over and fails to transfer, remove and spread new adhesive to achieve proper bonding to
the subfloor. WORKING TIME WILL VARY DEPENDING ON JOB SITE CONDITIONS.
During the installation occasionally remove a piece of flooring from the subfloor and inspect the back for proper
adhesive transfer. Adequate adhesive transfer is necessary to ensure sufficient holding strength.
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For additional application instructions, follow the recommendations on the adhesive container.
When not in use, keep the adhesive container tightly closed to prevent thickening. Thickening will cause
difficulty in spreading the adhesive.
Proper ventilation within the room must be provided. An electric fan is helpful.
If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
NOTE: Clean adhesive from the surface of the floor frequently using the recommended adhesive cleaner. Do not
use blue tape before adhesive is removed. Use clean towel, changed frequently to prevent haze and adhesive
residue.
STEP 3: INSTALLATION OF FLOORING
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Use the longest, straightest boards available for the first two rows. The first row of planks should be
installed with the edge of the groove lined up on the chalk line. The tongue should be facing the starting
wall. The first row must be aligned and seated in the adhesive as all additional rows will be pushed back
to this original row.
When installing 5-ply products or products wider than 3", apply a bead of PVA wood glue to all of the end
grooves prior to installing into the adhesive.
When installing pieces, engage the end-joint first as close to side (long) tongue and groove as possible
and then slide together tightly to engage side (long) joint tongue and groove. To avoid adhesive bleedthrough and memory pullback, avoid sliding pieces through the adhesive as much as possible when
placing them in position.
Check for a tight fit between all edges and ends of each plank. End-joints of adjacent rows should be
staggered 6" when possible to ensure a more favorable overall appearance.
If necessary, nail a sacrificial row with 2" nails on the dry side of your chalk line to help hold the first row
in place.
It may be necessary to align product with a cut-off piece of scrap.
To eliminate minor shifting or gapping of product during installation, use 3M 2090 Blue Mask Tape to hold
the planks together. After installation is complete, remove all the 3M 2090 Blue Mask Tape from surface
of newly installed flooring. Do not let tape remain on flooring longer than 24 hours. Avoid use of masking
tape, which leaves an adhesive residue.
Be sure not to spread adhesive too far ahead of your work area.
Complete the installation using this same technique for the remainder of the floor.
Avoid heavy foot traffic on the flooring for at least 24 hours. Lift the furniture or fixtures back into place
after 24 hours.
INSTALLERS - ADVISE YOUR CUSTOMER OF THE FOLLOWING
SEASONS: HEATING AND NON-HEATING
Recognizing that wood floor dimensions will be slightly affected by varying levels of humidity within your building,
care should be taken to control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect your investment and to assure
that your floors provide lasting satisfaction, we have provided our recommendations below.
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Heating Season (Dry) - A humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive shrinkage in wood floors due
to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and electric heat tend to create very dry conditions.
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Non-Heating Season (Humid, Wet) - Proper humidity levels can be maintained by use of an air
conditioner, dehumidifier, or by turning on your heating system periodically during the summer months.
Avoid excessive exposure to water from tracking during periods of inclement weather. Do not obstruct in
any way the expansion joint around the perimeter of your floor.
FLOOR REPAIR
Minor damage can be repaired with a touch-up kit or filler. Major damage will require board replacement, which
can be done by a professional floor installer.
ALL INSTALLATIONS
STEP 4: COMPLETING THE JOB
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Clean floor with the recommended wood flooring cleaner. (See adhesive container for specific
information)
Re-install any transition pieces that may be needed, such as Reducer Strips, T-moldings, or Thresholds.
The products are available pre-finished to blend with your flooring. (See moldings below)
Re-install all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail moldings into the wall, not the floor. Inspect the
floor, filling all minor gaps with the appropriate blended filler.
If the floor is to be covered, use a breathable material such as cardboard. Do not cover with plastic.
Leave warranty and floor care information with the owner. Advise them of the product name and code
number of the flooring they purchased.
To prevent surface damage avoid rolling heavy appliances and furniture on the floor. Use plywood,
hardboard or appliance lifts if necessary.
MOLDINGS
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Reducer Strip: a teardrop shaped molding. Used around fireplaces, doorways, as a room divider, or as a
transition between Parquet and adjacent floor coverings that are less thick. Fasten down with adhesive or
double-faced tape.
Threshold: a molding undercut for use against sliding door tracks, fireplaces, carpet, ceramic tile, or
existing thresholds to allow for expansion space and to provide a smooth transition in height difference.
Fasten to subfloor with adhesive and/or nails through the heel. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
Always leave expansion beneath the undercut.
Stair Nosing: a molding undercut for use as a stair landings trim, elevated floor perimeters, and stair
steps. Fasten down firmly with adhesive and nails or screws. Predrill nail holes to prevent splitting.
Quarter Round: a molding used to cover expansion space next to baseboards, case goods, and stair
steps. Predrill and nail to the vertical surface, not into the floor.
Combination Base and Shoe: a molding used when a base is desired. Used to cover expansion space
between the floor and the wall. Predrill and nail into the wall, not the floor.
T-Molding: a molding used as a transition piece from one flooring to another or to gain expansion spaces.
Fasten at the heel in the center of the molding. Leave expansion beneath the undercut on both sides.
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